Volume 14 Number 1 © 2011 Charles Kendrick Cowdery, All Rights Reserved August 2011

Evan Williams Single Barrel The Story; Straight ’s Vintage Is Critical & Popular Hit. Grand Old Man.

n the autumn of 2006, eldom mentioned in all of ’s Evan Little sips of news, the talk about the rye Williams Single Barrel history and other whiskey revival is the Vintage series got a bit information about granddaddy of them all: more interesting. That’s when they Old Overholt. America's unique spirit unveiled the 1997 vintage. The 1997 The old man depicted on the very was the first one not made at Heaven and the people retro Old Overholt label is Abraham Hill’s Bardstown distillery (DSP-31). who make it, Overholt, a real person, who made rye Thus began an odyssey for Heaven for people whiskey in western Pennsylvania from Hill of several years in the wilderness, who enjoy it. about 1810 until his death in 1870. The making whiskey in other people’s brand was created after his death, by the plants, then acquiring and settling into a company he founded, and the whiskey new home at Bernheim in Louisville. It was made at the distillery he built until is a journey we can taste in the 1997 the industry began to contract in the and subsequent vintages, many of 1970s and production was moved to which are still on retail shelves. . Single Barrel Always Independent ‘Overholt’ is an Americanization of Vintage is both a status project and a & Idiosyncratic. the German name Oberholtzer. The popular hit. Each new vintage produces (No distillery affiliation.) Oberholtzers were members of the oft- news that reflects on the distillery’s persecuted Mennonite faith who came capabilities, self-confidence, and to William Penn’s New World colony recognition of the enthusiast anticipated the bourbon renaissance and because it promised religious freedom. community; the purposes of a status probably helped to bring it about. No They settled originally in Buck’s project. It also generates enough sales other producer has done anything quite County, in the eastern part of the state. volume at a premium price to be like it. Abraham Overholt was born in commercially successful, which is the The concept was innovative and 1784, the tenth of twelve children. type of status project Heaven Hill sophisticated, especially for its time. While the older children helped their prefers. Each year they bottle, in single barrel father in the fields, the younger children Soon the 2002 vintage will be format, whiskey distilled nine years performed other household tasks. Such unveiled. Typically, a new vintage is a large family required a lot of clothing introduced at a big October to-do in (Continued on page 2) and other textiles, and Abraham spent Kentucky, and begins to appear in most of his time at the family’s loom, stores in January. weaving wool and linen into cloth. He Two-thousand-and-two was In This Issue: and his brother, Christian, also tended Heaven Hill’s fourth year in the the family’s still. Bernheim distillery. They had made In 1800, Abraham’s father decided some modifications and pretty much Sixteen Years With Evan they were all moving to western settled in by then, although the Williams, 201 With Abe Pennsylvania, to a farm about 40 miles recently-completed distillery expansion southeast of Pittsburgh. Abraham was was still in the future. Overholt, And A Few only 16 and Christian was 14, but some The series began 16 years ago, a of their older siblings were married remarkable feat in its own right. It More With Some Micros. (Continued on page 3) Page 2 © 2011 Charles Kendrick Cowdery, All Rights Reserved The Bourbon Country Reader

EW Single Barrel ... their best effort during a given period, a purposes of differentiation. benchmark. Heaven Hill makes many The only other point of interest different products for many different about abv is that barrels stored in the (Continued from page 1) tastes, but they began in 1934 as a hottest warehouse locations tend to before. Although by law age statements bourbon maker and have always been a have the most evaporation, so there is just reflect a minimum age, Heaven bourbon maker most of all. Because the less whiskey in each barrel when it is Hill was committed to dump dates that age was fixed at nine years it would not dumped. They also have the highest reflected at least nine years but less be their oldest bourbon, but it would be abv levels. Each year a representative than ten in wood, and they put the the bourbon that said, “this is who we barrel is symbolically opened at the barrel’s exact fill and dump dates on are, this is what we’re all about.” unveiling event and may be tasted at the label, along with an identifying Buffalo Trace likes to say it is on a barrel strength, which on one occasion barrel number. quest for the perfect bourbon. Heaven was 80% abv. The idea was that there would be Hill takes a different approach. They Evan Williams Single Barrel slight differences from barrel to barrel say, “this is the perfect bourbon as Vintage is not a limited edition in the within a vintage as well as between nearly as the real world allows us to usual sense. They dump and bottle vintages, but there would always be a make it.” throughout the year based on how family resemblance. Drinkers who like to start with the many orders they receive. They can run Charged with creating the first best will always know where to start out theoretically but not practically, release and each one since is Master when they get to Heaven Hill. and scarcity is not the point as it is with Distiller Parker Beam, assisted by his Barrels of whiskey that are a typical limited edition. On the son, Craig Beam. Parker resolved to changeover date, they simply stop pick what in his opinion were the best bottling one vintage and start on the barrels of nine-year-old bourbon in “Evan Williams Single Barrel next one. They have flexibility as to their warehouses. He didn’t try to Vintage is not a limited edition when changeover occurs. match any profile except for the one he in the usual sense. They dump Heaven Hill launched a more has in his head of the ideal bourbon. and bottle throughout the year typical annual release, limited edition People like different things and series in 2007, called the Parker’s there are bourbons made for all tastes, based on how many orders Heritage Collection. Each year is but this is what Parker likes (Craig is they receive.” something different and only about presumably okay with it too) and, 4,000 bottles are produced. The 2011, furthermore, it tastes the way they which will be released soon, is a ten- believe bourbon should taste, the way it otherwise the same vary after aging year-old rye-recipe bourbon finished in shows best. because of their warehouse location. cognac casks. Distillers and their warehouse managers Give or take a year, most In the Evan Williams Single Barrel know the aging characteristics of experienced distillers will tell you Vintage series, any bottle with a various warehouses in their system and peaks at about nine barreled-on date after November of years. That’s subjective and you, as a of different locations within each 1996 was distilled somewhere other consumer, are entitled to prefer warehouse. When they want a whiskey than DSP-31. Initially, Heaven Hill something else. with certain characteristics, they know contracted with , later with exactly where to look. This is different, this is a leading Brown-Forman, for distilling services. practitioners in the field proposing a Parker knew from long experience All of the contracted spirit was barrel- at Heaven Hill (he started there in standard for the type. Considering the entered and aged by Heaven Hill at 1960) that what he liked best was source, you at least have to think about their own facilities. Even after they it. The Beams, like most distillers, have whiskey aged in the highest and hottest took over at Bernheim they continued more than just a professional interest in parts of the warehouses. The conditions to buy new make from Brown-Forman the subject. They are bourbon drinkers at those locations maximize wood because Bernheim didn’t have enough too. extraction. Whiskey aged there has capacity, hence the expansion strong flavors so the whiskey still tastes announced in 2007 and begun shortly As the series evolved it came to robust even after dilution to 43.3% abv. thereafter. represent what Heaven Hill felt was the best of their bourbon output, a calling Alcohol content was another Here are tasting notes for the five variable fixed at the beginning of the card of sorts, a sample of liquid from post-DSP-31 vintages released so far. their vast inventory that possessed all series. It is axiomatic that premium 1997 – Made at Jim Beam, it is of the qualities they felt a first-rate bourbons must be above the baseline more white-doggy than you would bourbon should display. It represented 40% abv, but otherwise 43.3% abv is (Continued on page 3) arbitrary, a non-standard abv for August 2011 © 2011 Charles Kendrick Cowdery, All Rights Reserved Page 3

Distilling Company was making he and EW Single Barrel ... Old Overholt Rye ... his family rich.

(Continued from page 2) (Continued from page 1) One of Abraham’s grandsons, by his daughter Elizabeth, was Henry Clay expect from a nine-year-old whiskey. with children of their own. Frick, known to us today as one of the These were the first batches made after Nevertheless, they all went west greatest of the late 19 th century ‘robber the fire and they seem star-crossed, a together. barons,’ who took early and often little hot and thin, with too many sharp Ten years later, Abraham was 26 ruthless advantage of opportunities edges. Still, it is good bourbon, just a and married. Their father had died engendered by the burgeoning bit out-of-step with the rest of the several years before, most of their industrial revolution. series. siblings had moved on to their own When he was about 19, Frick went 1998 – This was the year they farms, and the two youngest boys were to work for his grandfather at the moved to Brown-Forman. It is an distillery, as a bookkeeper. He stayed improvement, more cognac-like, with just two years, until Abraham’s death more chocolate and caramel, plus a “One of Abraham’s in 1870. With the money he made he little carob and wintergreen. It is still grandsons, by his daughter began to invest in coal mines, but thin-bodied, like the 1997, but the series Elizabeth, was Henry Clay instead of selling the coal, he built is moving in the right direction. Frick, known to us today as ovens to convert it into coke, an 1999 – Still mostly Brown-Forman one of the greatest of the late essential ingredient in steel production. but possibly some Bernheim. Richer th He had capital problems at first, but than the 1998, with more citrus, but still 19 century ‘robber barons.’” made good alliances, and soon was very thin in the body and a bit winey. making money hand over fist. By age 2000 – Bernheim, but possibly still 30, Frick’s wealth had surpassed that left in charge of the homestead. They of his grandfather. some Brown-Forman. There is no way decided to expand the distillery and to really tell. Distillate from the two make whiskey as their principal He didn’t get there by being a nice plants may even have been mixed occupation. guy. After muscling out his cousins, he together before barreling. This one became sole owner of A. Overholt & reveals ginger and other cookie spices The country around them was just Co. in 1881. He ultimately became one and is the best expression since the last barely civilized and transportation of the richest men in the world, of the DSP-31 (Bardstown) vintages. systems were still crude, but the hated primarily through his steel and railroad Well-balanced with just the right excise tax on spirits was a distant interests. He sold a partial interest in amount of char, which has been a memory, having been abolished in the Overholt company to his friend, hallmark of the series. 1802, and the population was growing. , whose family’s bank Grain was plentiful and cheap, so was 2001 – A pitch-perfect char note had been one of Frick’s early backers. good water, and whiskey could always Under their ownership, Old Overholt tells you the series is fully back on its find a market. game. All of the elements are here. became the best selling brand of rye Nice balance and drinkability, lots of Christian sold out to Abraham whiskey in the country. flavor including licorice and clove. early on. Other family members had Frick died in 1919 and his whiskey Could stand to have a little more body. interests at various times, always by business was shut down by Prohibition. The DSP-31 whiskey seemed stouter. informal, verbal agreement with The company did, however, obtain a Perhaps the distillery itself needs to Abraham. The business thrived and medicinal whiskey license, which age. DSP-31 was 72 years old when it Abraham brought his sons and then his made it attractive to Seton Porter when was destroyed. In 2001, Bernheim was grandsons into it. The A. Overholt he began to accumulate medicinal a mere 9 years old. permits, whiskey, distilleries, and 2002 – Coming soon. well the distillery was operating that brands in about 1927 for what became year, perhaps even the moods of Parker the National Distillers Products The Evan Williams Single Barrel Corporation. Vintage series will always be and Craig Beam, during both the interesting because more than any other distillation year and the selection year. After Prohibition, Old Overholt whiskey on the market, each bottle And there really are differences from took its place in the National portfolio represents a snapshot of a moment in year to year and bottle to bottle. That’s as the company’s primary rye. Since time. It reflects the grain harvest for the fun of it. Not just time but all of its National was one of the ‘big four’ that that year, the oak timber harvest of the intricate ripples affect how the whiskey dominated the post-Prohibition year before, and the weather during looks, smells and tastes. And it’s industry, that automatically made it those and each subsequent year until the always changing, just like life itself. once again the top in the barrels were dumped. It reflects how That’s a lot for $25. ← (Continued on page 4) Page 4 © 2011 Charles Kendrick Cowdery, All Rights Reserved The Bourbon Country Reader

Old Overholt Rye ... REVIEW: Three mint are the main compensations. With Kinnickinnic it is, of course, the straight bourbon, which blended (Continued from page 3) Recent Micro- with the malt produces a unique taste. country. Distillery Whiskeys. All three work better in cocktails But rye whiskey never regained the than they do neat, where the other share of market it had enjoyed before s promised, some of ingredients can take the masking even 1920. Drinkers in every region except America’s craft distilleries further. The whiskey doesn’t need to be the Northeast preferred bourbon. The have begun to sell aged covered up, it just needs a little ratio of bourbon-to-rye sales kept whiskey. They aren’t smoothing of its rough edges with good shifting in bourbon’s favor until rye necessarily trying to emulate the choices of complimentary flavors. was almost extinct. National Distillers majors, which is good, but they often eventually closed all of its Pennsylvania don’t reach the basic standard of You won’t confuse any of these distilleries and shifted Old Overholt something that is enjoyable to drink and with a fine six- to eight-year-old production to Kentucky, to the Forks of worth its price. Kentucky bourbon, but they’re not without their pleasures and they don’t Elkhorn distillery outside of Frankfort Here are three that do. where it also made Old Grand-Dad scream ‘white dog’ with every sip. bourbon. First, Smooth Ambler Yearling That’s their main accomplishment. Bourbon. As the name implies, it The value proposition is harder to The collapse of the American spends just over a year (14 mo.) in ten whiskey industry hit National very make for the New Holland and Smooth gallon barrels. It comes in a 375 ml Ambler than it is for the Kinnickinnic, hard. Burdened with tired brands, and bottle, at 46% abv, and sells for $24.00. old and excess distilleries, it shrank to a but all pass muster as better than ← fraction of its former size. Second, New Holland Double merely ‘interesting.’ Down Malt ‘Brewers’ Whiskey.’ It Jim Beam inherited Old Overholt spends six months in five gallon when it merged with National Distillers barrels. A 375 ml bottle, at 45% abv, is

in 1987. Beam immediately stopped $34.99. Contact The Reader. distilling at Forks. When the rye whiskey made there ran out, Beam Finally, Kinnickinnic Blended ddress all suggestions, simply used whiskey it was already Whiskey from Great Lakes Distillers. It comments, computations, making for Jim Beam Rye. Beam has is a blend of Kentucky straight bourbon and allegations to: with several malts made at Great Lakes. done little with the Overholt brand Charles Cowdery, Editor A 750 ml bottle, at 43% abv, is $29.99. except continue to make and distribute The Bourbon Country Reader it. In all three cases, something PMB 298, 3712 North Broadway Today, although it is widely unusual is done to compensate for the Chicago, IL 60613-4198 whiskey’s youth. available, Old Overholt sells fewer than E-mail The Reader at 20,000 cases a year. In Smooth Ambler’s case it’s the [email protected] mashbill (60% corn, 20% wheat, 20% You would expect Old Overholt to Visit us on the web at malt) and the small barrel aging. Wheat taste like Jim Beam Rye and it does. It http://bourbonstraight.com . tastes like it may be selected for more is much milder than rye and small Subscriptions are $20 each, for which tannic barrel notes, because it has a bit barrels provide more wood extraction, you will receive six issues. Make check more bite. so while a white dog taste is vaguely there, it is mostly masked by sweetness payable to Made and Bottled in Rye production in Kentucky didn’t and a remarkable minty-ness. Kentucky. Back issues are available. begin when the last of the Eastern rye distilleries shut down. Even before The New Holland does the same "The Bourbon Country Reader" is published every Prohibition, Kentucky distilleries like thing, albeit less successfully, with the small barrel. Here too, sweetness and other month or thereabouts by Made and Bottled in the ones operated by Beam family Kentucky, PMB 298, 3712 North Broadway, members routinely made both bourbon Chicago, IL 60613-4198. and rye, so the Beam rye recipe "The Bourbon Country Reader" assumes no In reaction to the rye revival, Beam responsibility to return unsolicited editorial or probably has an old pedigree within the has updated (slightly) the label on Jim graphic material. All rights in letter and unsolicited family. The whiskey has its detractors, Beam Rye and launched an upscale editorial and graphic material will be treated as who find it muddy and flat, or just unconditionally assigned for publication and super-premium rye called (ri)1 (Rye copyright purposes and subject to "The Bourbon bland, but it is a legitimate style. One). It hasn’t touched Old Overholt, Country Reader's" unrestricted right to edit and to Its modest price makes trying some but the brand remains in the company’s comment editorially. All rights reserved. Nothing ← may be reprinted in whole or in part without written a low-risk proposition. portfolio. permission from the publisher.