Małopolska National and Landscape Parks, Nature Reserves

Małopolska National and landscape parks, nature reserves

Małopolska  8 UNESCO sites  250 attractions on the Wooden Architecture Route  Wadowice – town of birth of Pope John Paul II  Salt mines in Wieliczka and Bochnia  9 spa resorts  6 national parks  4 geothermal pools  Rafting down the Dunajec gorge  2600 km of bicycle trails  3360 km of mountain trails  250 ski runs www.visitmalopolska.pl

EUROPEAN UNION EUROPEAN REGIONAL DEVELOPMENT FUND

Project co-financed by the European Union within the Malopolska Regional Operational Programme 2007–2013 Rejkiawik IS Małopolska Capital of the region: Kraków Major cities: Tarnów, Nowy Sącz, Oświęcim Surface area: 15,190 km2 (about 5% of the surface area of Poland) Population: 3.28 mil. (about 8% of the population of Poland) Landscape: FIN Helsinki  the tallest peak – Rysy: 2499 m asl N Oslo S  mountains – Tatras, Beskids, Pieniny, Gorce Sztokholm Tallin EST RUS  foothills – Carpathian Foothills Ryga  uplands – Kraków-Częstochowa Upland LV Dublin DK  lowlands – Vistula valley IRL Kopenhaga LT Wilno main rivers – Vistula, Dunajec, Poprad, Raba, Skawa, Biała GB RUS  Mińsk NL  water reservoirs – Czorsztyński, Rożnowski, Czchowski, Dobczycki, Londyn BY Amsterdam Klimkówka Berlin Bruksela Warszawa D PL  the highest located, cleanest lakes – Morskie Oko, Czarny Staw, the lakes B Kijów L Praga KRAKÓW of the Valley of Five Polish Lakes Paryż Luksemburg UA  the largest and deepest cave – Wielka Śnieżna Cave: over 22 km CZ SK Bratysława of corridors, 824 m deep F FL Wiedeń Berno MD Vaduz Budapeszt CH A H Kiszyniów Lublana SLO RO Zagrzeb San Bukareszt Marino HR AND Monako BIH Belgrad P E MC RSM Andora Sarajewo SRB Lizbona I Madryt MNE Soﬁa Priština BG Rzym Podgorica RKS Skopje V Tirana MK AL Publisher GR TR Department of Tourism, Sport and Promotion Ateny at The Office of the Marshal of the Małopolska Province Regional Tourism Information System Team ul. Basztowa 22, 31-156 Kraków M [email protected] www.visitmalopolska.pl

Text Iwona Baturo

Photos P. Fabijański, S. Gacek, T. Gębuś, J. Gorlach, J. Mysiński, A. Niedźwieńska, P. Witosławski, M. Zaręba, D. Zaród, iStockPhoto.com photo archive, UMWM photo archive

Publishing Amistad Sp. z o.o. – Program ul. Stolarska 13/7, 31-043 Kraków tel./faks: + 48 12 4229922 Wysowa-Zdrój [email protected], www.polskaturystyczna.pl Production management: Agnieszka Błaszczak, Małgorzata Czopik Project coordination: Katarzyna Thor Publishing concept: Anna Niedźwieńska Editor: Aurelia Hołubowska Proofreading: Agnieszka Szmuc Cover design, graphic design: PART SA Maps: Wydawnictwo Kartograficzne Daunpol sp. z o.o. Typesetting, preparation for print: Michał Tincel Translation and proofreading: EuroInterpret Dominik Moser

Kraków 2010, ISBN 978-83-61355-89-2 The authors and publishers have made every effort to ensure the text is accurate, however, they cannot be responsible for any changes that took place after the materials have been prepared for publishing. Materials prepared as of 29 October 2010. MAŁOPOLSKA National Parks, Landscape Parks and Nature Reserves

Setting off for nature ałopolska is an outstanding region, especial- ly in respect of its natural resources. From the fanciful monadnocks and hot desert sands, the scenic sash of the Vistula and the Duna- Mjec forcing its way between the rocks, the green Beskids and the bare summits of the Tatras, the dark caves and roaring waterfalls…. As much as 53% of the Małopolska area is protected. There are 6 national and 11 landscape parks, 10 areas of protected landscape, 84 nature reserves and also 2189 natural monuments. The Babiogórski and Tatrzański National Park – two areas unique on the world scale and of special natural value – have also been recog- nised as UNESCO biosphere reserves.

Such a variety of landscape must favour a rich diversity of flora and fauna. It is only in the national parks that over half of all the plant and wildlife species living in Poland have been categorised. Truly unique are the sections of forest whose primeval character still remains in the Pieniny, the Babia Góra massif, the Tatras and the Beskid Sądecki mountain range. These forest complexes are also habi- tats to a number of rare and endangered animals listed in the Polish Red Book of Threatened Species. Indeed, it is Małopolska which is home to all the Polish large predatory mammals: the bear, wolf, lynx and wild cat. It is also in Małopolska, exactly in the Tatras, where you can spot edelweiss and chamois – symbols of an environment unspoiled by human activity.

Małopolska’s natural treasures can be admired on many hiking, cycling and bridle trails. However, you should re- On the trail – the Tatras, photo by J. Gorlach member that in national parks and reserves, where the en- vironmental protection is a priority, it is forbidden, among other regulations, to deviate from the way-marked trails. You must also not feed animals or pick plants, even inconspicuous-looking flowers. You should also not dislodge any rocks. Nature doesn’t like noise or litter either. Please respect these rather minor demands. National Parks

Babiogórski National Park, photo by D. Zaród On the peak of Babia Góra, photo by D. Zaród Babiogórski National Park Tourists on the trail, photo by D. Zaród The half-wild and lofty Queen of the Beskids, as Babia Góra is often called, became protected as a national park in 1954. This not too vast but high mountain range (the highest in the Eastern Beskids) catches your eye from afar. The north faces, marked with gullies and rock debris, drop steeply down while the more flattened southern ones slope gently into valleys.Diablak (1725 m asl) is Babia Góra’s highest peak. The European watershed runs through the Babia Góra ridge, meaning that the waters flowing down the massif’s north slopes empty into the Baltic Sea whereas those on the south slopes end up in the Black Sea basin. The well-preserved alpine flora, complete with all the natural altudi- nal vegetation zones, was the reason to include the Babiogórski National Park to the Natura 2000 network and to inscribe it among the UNESCO biosphere reserves in 1977. Only areas unique on the world scale and unspoiled by human activity are ranked as biosphere reserves.

The high altitude of the Babia Góra massif and the consequent diversity of the climatic conditions al- lowed the formation of vegetation zones similar to those in the high mountains, such as the Tatras. The majestic forests growing in the lower parts of the range (the lower subalpine zone) are a remnant Interesting sights of the ancient natural Carpathian Forest. There, a lot of rare and protected plants can be found in the undergrowth. In the upper subalpine zone, dominated by spruce, a natural curiosity is the Polish La- PTTK (Polish Tourist and Sightseeing serpitium archangelica, a plant which occurs only in the Babia Góra massif and has become the park’s Society) Hostel in Markowe symbol. Here, a strip of dwarf pine is a kingdom of bushes while the highest alpine zone is dominat- Szczawiny, located just shy of the ed by small green plants clinging to the ground or rocks. The Alpine chickweed, an inconspicuous central point of the park. plant decorated with white flowers, is another endemic (found only in particular areas) species living Diablak, the highest peak of the here. Rising higher still, the very peak of Diablak is covered with rock debris. park, can be reached by two trails: the This unspoiled flora is a haven to many animals. Apart from the common fauna, representatives of al- yellow trail, called Perć Akademików ready rare species still inhabit the park, such as the lynx, wolf and brown bear in the mountains. Also, (Academics’ Path), and the red trail. approximately 100 bird species, such as the Western Capercaillie, and the Black and Hazel Grouse, Zawoja, a holiday resort, where have their breeding nests here. you can see a church built in 1888, situated along the Wooden Architecture Route, as well as the Babiogórski National Park, trail admission fee: May–Oct, 1-day PLN 5, concessions: PLN 2.50, Garden of Babia Góra Plants. free admission for children under 7 years old, / www.bgpn.pl.

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Planning the trip, photo by D. Zaród Through the meadows of Gorczański National Park, Gorczański National Park photo by D. Zaród Gorczański National Park extends over the central and north-east parts of the Gorce Mountains, which Gorczański National Park, photo by D. Zaród belong to the Western Beskids. The park was established in 1981 and comprises two mountain ridges stretching from Turbacz (1310 m asl) towards the peak of Gorc (1228 m asl) and the peak of Kudłoń (1276 m asl). Jaworzyna Kamienicka (1288 m asl) is the highest summit of the park. These relatively low mountains are of particular interest to tourists with a taste for hiking thanks to a variety of trails suited to everyone’s enjoyment. Importantly, the area was also included into the Natura 2000 network, being a habitat to rare European birds, such as the Western Capercaillie, the White-backed Woodpecker, the Eurasian Pygmy-owl and the Ural Owl.

The mountains are covered with beautiful forests, themselves the remnant of the once primeval Car- Interesting sights pathian Forest. The areas least affected by man are situated in the lower parts of the mountains made On the Jaworzyna Kamienicka up by mixed forests called beech woods. There, should you visit, one can find centuries-old beech and glade one may find an interesting fir trees in antique splendour. A true curiosity of flora is the Lanceleaf grapefern, a fern known to grow feature, the small Bulandowa only in the Gorce Mountains and now, sadly, completely threatened with extinction. Large predatory Chapel, which is over 100 years old. mammals – like the wolf and lynx – as well as a number of hoofed mammals, also inhabit the area. The It was built by Tomasz Chlipała who old trees are a favourite nesting site for birds, including such rare species as the Eagle Owl and West- grazed his sheep here for almost 50 ern Capercaillie, while the flowery meadows resound with the myriad buzzing of insects. The park’s charming symbol is the frequently seen Fire Salamander. years. On the edge of the park there However, the prominent feature of the Gorce Mountains is the glades, the consequence of the region’s are several hostels: pod Turbaczem pastoral traditions that harkens back to the 15th century. Amidst the forest complexes, the glades cre- (Turbacz peak doesn’t belong to the ate vast and picturesque clearings that warrant splendid views. Sometimes, these clearings link to- park), na Starych Wierchach and gether allowing landscape trails of breathtaking pastoral beauty. Once used as grazing lands for sheep, na Maciejowej. Moreover, in the some of the glades are embellished with chalets. A few chalets on the Mostownica, Jankówki and towns of Grywałd, Łopuszna and Wzorowa glades, precious to the areas charm and history, have been refurbished. The park is also Harklowa, laid out at the foot of the rich in rock outcrops and landslides located mostly in the north on the black trail from Lubomierz. Gorce Mountains, one can admire the splendidly quaint wooden churches located along the Wooden Gorczański National Park, trail admission fee: May–Oct, 1-day PLN 2, concessions: PLN 1, 3-day PLN 4, Architecture Route. concession PLN 2, free admission for children under 7 years old, / www.gorczanskipark.pl.

4 5 National Parks

The Orthodox church in Skwirtne, photo by J. Mysiński Spring in Magurski National Park, photo by D. Zaród Magurski National Park The Folusz Waterfall, photo by D. Zaród Established in 1995, the park extends over the central part of the Low Beskids: the Magura Wątkowska range and its southern slopes near the Slovak border. Only a few mountains exceed 800 m asl. Wątkowa, the highest peak, reaches 847 m asl. Complementing the beauty of the area is the meandering Wisłoka river whose gorges and tributaries cut deeply into the slopes at the southern part of the park. The impressive cultural monuments of the park, such as the “Lemko” style Orthodox churches, are espe- cially worth visiting along your journey.

The park’s typical woodland character consists of the beautiful indigenous fir and ancient beech forests divided by meadows, heaths and pastures. The latter, unused for 50 years, currently serve as grazing lands for sheep to prevent encroachment by the woodland. Meadows and heaths are also mowed every few years. Although the non-forest environment comprises only 5% of the park, it provides the area with rich floral resources. Orchids, among other rare protected species, make their home here. Interesting sights The forest highland is a habitat for a number of animals. All species of large predatory mammals which In the villages of Skwirtne, Bartne occur in Poland, such as the wolf, lynx and wild cat, live here. A number of predatory birds like the and Owczary, along the Wooden Golden Eagle, the Tawny Owl, the Common Buzzard and hawk, as well as the Honey Buzzard, Architecture Route, can be found also nest here. The Lesser Spotted Eagle, which builds more nests here than anywhere else in Po- land, is the park’s symbol. a number of “Lemko” style Orthodox churches. World War I cemeteries in Krempna, Grab, Długi, and Wola Cieklińska. Diabli Kamień (Devil Stone), a natural monument, and the Kornuty rock reserve, which showcase splendid rock formations. A small Magurski Waterfall Magurski National Park, trail admission fee: May–Oct, 1-day PLN 4, concessions: PLN 2, 4-day close to Folusz is another attraction PLN 12, concession PLN 6, free admission for children under 7 years old; in Folusz, at the green tra- of the park. il leading to the waterfall, the following car park charges apply: PLN 1/h, / www.magurskipn.pl.

6 7 National Parks

The Chapel on the Water, photo by M. Zaręba The Rękawica Rock, UMWM photo archive Ojcowski National Park The Mace of Hercules, photo by D. Zaród Ojcowski National Park, Poland’s smallest national park, is precious for its geological, natural and cultural resources. Created in 1956, it has protected the Prądnik and Saspówka Valleys and a few small gorges. The importance of this area was already appreciated by the 19th century, undoubtedly thanks to its close proximity to Kraków. The fairy-tale character of the landscape formed by steep-sided canyons, jutting rock pinnacles and groups of monadnocks came as the happy result of destructive wa- Interesting sights ter activity. Jurassic limestone rocks are quickly eroded by rain and this process, repeated for millions The ruins of the Ojców castle, erected during of years, resulted in astounding forms. The most spectacular is the Prądnik Valley – a gallery of karst King Casimir the Great’s reign in the 14th century, can works – which is endowed with tall rocks of fanciful shapes, karst springs and a cornucopia of caves be sighted on the Trail of the Eagles’ Nests. Situated (approximately 400). along the Wooden Architecture Route, the beautiful Chapel on the Water built in 1901, with three A characteristic microclimate has evolved in the valleys carved by water. The climatic conditions com- original cottage roof-shaped altars, can also be seen. bined with the substratum’s rich diversity gave rise to the abundant floral resources that are a fea- Open to visitors is Grota Łokietka (Łokietek ture here. Over a thousand vascular plants, half of all species occurring in Poland, have been recorded here. Among the most interesting species are the Lady’s Slipper Orchid, known as the “common Cave), where, according to tales, centuries ago the obuwnik” in Polish and which, despite its name, is not very common, and Mother-of-Thyme, which future Polish ruler hid. Also open for sightseeing is grows only here in Poland. In terms of fauna, bats are the most popular inhabitants of the park. Out the Ciemna (Dark) Cave where one of the oldest of 21 species living in Poland, 17 of them have been spotted here. A bat’s iconic silhouette has been Neanderthal camps was discovered. Moreover, included in the park’s logo. one can enjoy the castle in Pieskowa Skała, also called the ‘Pearl of Jura,’ complete with a museum exhibition culled from the Division of the National Art Collection of the Royal Castle at the Wawel Hill. Maczuga Herkulesa (Mace of Hercules), the most well-known Jurassic limestone rock in the shape of Hercules’s mace, and the famous monadnocks, Skamieniały Wędrowiec (Petrified Wanderer) and Igła Deotymy (Diotima’s Needle), are other interesting attractions. Here, too, stands the Kraków Gate formed by two Ojcowski National Park, trail admission fee: free of charge, / www.opn.pan.krakow.pl. epic 15-metre limestone rocks. 8 9 National Parks

Rafting on the Dunajec, photo by T. Gębuś Trzy Korony, UMWM photo archive Pieniński National Park The Dunajec Gorge, photo by T. Gębuś The fairly small and rugged Pieniny Mountains are the jewels of the Carpathian range. Built from Cre- taceous and Jurassic limestone, they are characterised by a distinct terrain. The park extends over the most attractive part of the mountains – the emerging steep quasi-islands called the Pieniny Właściwe. The preservation of this area started prior to World War II, but the park gained its current name only in 1954. Precipitous peaks, small rocks, regal gorges and the scenic Dunajec Valley that cuts through the mountains serve to create a realm of enigmatic beauty. Among these, Okrąglica (982 m asl), situ- Interesting sights ated in the Trzy Korony (Three Crowns) massif, is the highest peak of the park. Homole Gorge and Biała Woda (White Water), charming nature reserves (see p. 25). Limestone bedrock, and the extensive geomorphologic diversity coupled with the fairly low altitude St. Martin’s Church dating back to the of the mountains, helps to support a wide variety of flora. Apart from the beech and fir forests, the 15th century, situated on the Wooden park is distinguished by its flowery meadows (with a number of different species including a couple Architecture Route in Grywałd. of varieties of orchids) and the grass upon the rocks. The latter has sheltered two endemic species Rafting through the Dunajec Gorge, (found only in the Pieniny range): Taraxacum pieninicum and Erysimum pieninicum, and the rel- the greatest attraction of the Pieniny. The ict Dendranthema zawadskii which grows in the vast areas of Central Asia and only in the Pieniny trip starts at the rafting stand in Sromowce Mountains in Europe. A great diversity of wildlife is another characteristic feature of the mountains. It is estimated that half of the species recorded in Poland live here, most of them insects. The lynx and Wyżne-Kąty (www.flisacy.com.pl; rafting: wild cat can also be found prowling beneath the forests’ canopies. The mountains also provide a hab- Apr–Oct) and within 2–3 hours covers an itat to the eyries of the Eagle Owl, the Lesser Spotted Eagle and the Golden Eagle. However, what 18-kilometre distance towards Szczawnica makes the site so popular and unique is the scenic landscape emphasised by the park’s logo, which or 23 kilometres towards Krościenko. includes the Dunajec waters cascading down the mountain peaks. Dunajec Castle in Niedzica, which towers over the surface of the Czorsztyn Lake, is the best preserved residential and fortified building in the Carpathian Mountains. It also houses a museum. On the opposite side of the lake, you can admire the ruins of Czorsztyn Castle, which can be reached bythe boats named ‚Biała Pieniński National Park. Trail admission fee: free of charge (including the Slovakian side of the mo- Dama’ (White Lady) and ‚Harnaś’ (a legendary untains), in May–Oct fees are charged for the viewing terraces on top of Trzy Korony and Sokolica; the leader of robbers in the Tatras). ticket purchased on Trzy Korony is valid for entry to Sokolica and vice-versa; / www.pieninypn.pl.

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The cableway to Kasprowy Wierch, photo by J. Gorlach The Valley of Five Polish Lakes, photo by D. Zaród Tatrzański National Park Tatrzański National Park, UMWM photo archive This is one of the largest parks in Poland and encomy passes the Polish Tatras and sections of the Pod- hale. Tatrzański National Park was created in 1955 but the first calls for its safeguarding came at the end of the 19th century, just after the establishment of the very first national park in Yellowstone in the United States. The snowy mountains, as the Tatras were called centuries ago, is the only alpine mountain range in Poland. They inspire awe and command respect. On the one hand, the landscape consists of sharp ridges, jagged peaks, chimneys and postglacial corries continuously capped with snow and hidden among billowing clouds. On the other hand, the Tatras are framed by the scenic valleys of streams and vast glades dotted blissfully with continuously grazing sheep. In terms of natural resources, the Tatras are one of the most precious areas in Poland. Hence, the park has been included in The best of the Polish Tatras the Natura 2000 network and has been designated a UNESCO biosphere reserve (jointly with the • Highest waterfall Slovakian Tatranským národným parkom), which proves its uniqueness on the world scale. Siklawa (c. 70 m) The park includes all the characteristic vegetation zones linked to the changing altitudinal climatic • Largest lake conditions. The lower subalpine zone consists of both mixed forests and coniferous woods whose un- Morskie Oko (Eye of the Sea) (34.9 ha) dergrowth blooms with thousands of flowers in the spring. The upper subalpine zone is a kingdom • Deepest lake of spruce joined on the north side by Swiss stone pine trees, distinctive for their dome-rounded tops. Wielki Staw Polski (Great Polish Tarn) (79 m) The dwarf pine belt is framed by a clump of bushes, which in higher altitudes give way to the mead- • Largest cave ows of the alpine zone, also known as mountain pastures. The latter is home to edelweiss that arrived Wielka Śnieżna (Great Snowy Cave) from Asia and became a characteristic feature of the park and its floral symbol. The highest peaks of (22 km-long network of corridors) the mountains delineate one more altitudinal level, called the subnival or peak zone, which is covered with low-lying grass tufts. This vegetation zone has evolved only in the High Tatras. • Longest Valley Suchej Wody Gąsienicowej (Dry Water Valley) (13 km) • Highest peak Rysy (2499 m asl) • Highest situated hostel Tatrzański National Park, trail admission fee: 16th Apr–14th Sep, 1-day PLN 4.40, concessions: PLN 2.20, in Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich (Valley 7-day PLN 18, concessions: PLN 9, 15th Sep–15th July, 1-day PLN 3.20, concessions: PLN 1.60, 7-day PLN 13, con- of Five Polish Lakes) (1672 m asl) cessions: PLN 6.50, free admission for children under 7 years old, / www.tpn.pl.

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Jurassic Landscape Parks Complex

Bielańsko-Tyniecki Landscape Park The park embraces an area of the scenic Vistula Valley between Kraków and Ściejowice and the three major forest complexes: Wolski Wood and the woodlands in the vicinity of Tyniec and Czernichów. The park took its name from the two monasteries – the Camaldolesce monastery in Bielany and the Benedictine monastery in Tyniec – which comprise the park’s most precious cultural monuments. The landscape is characterised by the logging hills, which form, among other structures, the enchanting Vistula Gorge near Tyniec. The above mentioned Wolski Wood, a park in Kraków, is a special site cut across with gorges and canyons marked by a number of hiking and cycling trails. Dłubniański Landscape Park The park encomy passes the Valley of the Dłubnia river which stretches from Nowa Huta – the district of Kraków – to the north. The long and shallow valley has a few picturesque regions, such as that between Glanów and Imbramowice, or between Iwanowice and Maszków. The river is fed by a number of springs, a few of which are protected as natural monuments. The most popular and beautiful one is ‘Jordan,’ the pulsating karst spring in Ściborzyce. The other characteristic features of the valley are the precious and numerous monuments which include the St. Norbert Convet in Imbramowice, the 18th century wooden church in Iwanowice, and let’s not forget about the 13th-century Romanesque church in Wyso- cice. A few 18th_ and 19th_ century country mansions have also been preserved in the towns by the river. Kraków Valleys Landscape Park The area situated to the north-east of Kraków is known as the Switzerland of Kraków. The name was as- cribed with due reason: it is a land of valleys and gorges traversed by winding rivers and a kingdom of monadnocks, caves and karst springs. This region is perfect for one-day trips facilitated by a number of hiking and cycling tracks. The park encomy passes many Jurassic valleys including the most popular ones such as: the Będkowska Valley, the Bolechowicka Valley, the Eliaszówka Valley (see p. 25), the Kluczwoda Valley (see p. 23), the Kobylańska Valley, the Racławka Valley, and the Szklarka Valley. The Bat Cave, photo by M. Zaręba There are also two caves open to sightseeing: the Nietoperzowa (Bat) Cave and the Wierzchowska Bielańsko-Tyniecki Landscape Park, photo by M. Zaręba Górna Cave. The late-Gothic churches in Poczółtowice and Racławice, located along the Wooden The Benedictine monastery in Tyniec, photo by D. Zaród Architecture Route, are also worth a visit. Kraków valleys, photo by M. Zaręba

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The Błędów Desert, photo by P. Fabijański Eagles’ Nests Landscape Park The Tęczyn Castle in Rudno, photo by M. Zaręba Stretching from Częstochowa to Olkusz, the park is located within the Małopolska and Silesian provinc- The Lipowiec Castle, photo by M. Zaręba es. The Małopolska part includes such cities as Klucze, Olkusz, Trzyciąż and Wolbrom. The name of the park derives from the medieval fortified castles erected on the high inaccessible rocks that were sup- posed to secure the border and the important trade routes in King Casimir the Great’s time. Today the ruins of these fortresses, such as in Rabsztyn, comprise a unique feature of this area. A great natural curiosity of the Małopolska part of the park is the Błędów Desert, the only such area in Poland. The Polish Sahara, as it is called, is gradually being encroached upon by plants, but large stretches of sand can be still seen from the Klucze side. Spectacular views of many limestone monadnocks are offered by the still little known but most charming Wodąca Valley (its name a derivative of water, though ironically with- out any). It can be reached on the Jaskiniowców (Cavemen) Trail, which also leads to the lofty Zegarowe (Clock) Rocks complex (an observation platform), which is another site to reach and see on the hike. Rudniański Landscape Park Situated to the east of Kraków, on the Krakowska Upland, the park was created to protect precious forest complexes such as the dry-ground and mixed coniferous forests, as well as the grass plants and xerothermic bushes growing on the upland slopes and limestone rocks. The region’s distinctive features are the picturesque logging uplands built from the Jurassic limestone. The Valley of the Rudno Spring, from which the park derived its name, is one of the most attractive sights. It is also worth spending a few moments in Alwernia, which charms with its splendid market square of historic wooden buildings. Tenczyński Landscape Park This park of great tourist interest protects the forested areas of the Tenczyński Ridge. The lie of the land has typical features of the Jurassic landscape, which involves rocky edges, karst valleys, gorges, gulches and tectonic faults. The areas of great natural interest include the nature reserves open to the public such as Zimny Dół (Cold Pit) and the Mnikowska Valley, Skała Kmity (Kmita Rock) and Lipo wiec. In the village of Babice you can also explore the ruins of a medieval castle. A further bonus is an interesting ethnographic museum of wooden architecture (Nadwiślański Etnographic Park in Wygiełzów), located at the foot of the castle. The ruins of Tęczyn castle in Rudno, another famous fortress of the park, is currently awaiting refurbishing works. The north-west part of the park is overgrown by the panoramic Dulowska Forest, adding to its primeval appeal.

16 17 Landscape Parks

The church in Lipnica Murowana, photo by P. Witosławski Ciężkowicko-Rożnowski Landscape Park, photo by S. Gacek Pogórze Landscape Parks Complex Wiślicko-Lipnicki Landscape Park, photo by S. Gacek Ciężkowicko-Rożnowski Landscape Park This area of great landscape interest protects the regions of the Różnów and Ciężkowice Foothills separated by the Biała Valley. It abounds with the original geological features and unspoiled forest environ- ments. At least some interesting sights can be accessed from the way-marked tourist trails and nature paths. The spectacular Skamieniałe Miasto (Stone City) reserve (see p. 27) is undoubtedly a popular attraction of the park. However, the impressive rocks can also be admired in Bukowiec, near Jamna, in the Diabla Skała (Devil Rock) reserve. On the north side of the Różnów Foothills, you can view the Wał massif, resplendent with geological curiosities such as fossilised tree trunks that are 60 millions years old. The park also includes many World War I cemeteries. Pasmo Brzanki Landscape Park The highest east part of the Ciężkowice Foothills is the most enchanting. The Brzanka range stretches latitudinally from the Biała Valley to the Wisłoka Valley. Splendid forests covering the slopes are the park’s main attraction. Fields and meadows complete the landscape at a slightly lower level. The trails crossing the range abound in rock outcrops and interesting geomorphologic forms. Only a frag- ment of the protected area, the Ryglice and Lubaszowa region, belong to Małopolska province. In this part Brzanka (538 m asl) is the highest peak with a private hostel at its summit. A yellow trail runs along the mountain ridge surrounded by a majestic panoramic view of the Foothills and the Beskids. Wiśnicko-Lipnicki Landscape Park The conservation area embraces a portion of the Wiśnickie Foothills near Nowy Wiśnicz, Lipnica Murowa- na and Królówki, graced by unique historic buildings and monuments of significant architectural heritage. In Wiśnicz Nowy a few sights are worth paying a visit, such as the 14th-century castle and the 17th-century Discalced Carmelites monastery and town buildings. Lipnica Murowana is another village renowned for its wooden gothic church dating from the late 15th-century and inscribed on the UNESCO World Cultural and Natural Heritage list. It also has a beautiful market square with wooden arcaded houses. While admir- ing the monuments, you cannot forget about the precious natural environment of this area. The curiosities of the geological features include groupings of sandstone outcrops protected in the Kamień Grzyb (Mushroom Stone) reserve and a cluster of rocks called Kamienie Brodzińskiego (Brodziński Stones).

18 19 Landscape Parks

On the trail, photo by iStockphoto.com The Dunajec in Szczawnica, photo by J. Gorlach Popradzki Landscape Park Popradzki Landscape Park, photo by J. Gorlach Created in 1987, the park covers the Beskid Sądecki range, which consists of the Radziejowa and Ja- worzyna Krynicka mountains separated by the Poprad Valley and the Kraczonika range situated on the side. Rich in mineral water resources, the region is well developed. A number of health resorts such as Krynica-Zdrój, Muszyna, Piwniczna-Zdrój and Szczawnica serve as the region’s additional attractions. The resorts also provide a perfect base for tourists to explore the scenic mountains ornament- ed with numerous river gorges. Radziejowa (1262 m asl) is the highest peak of the Beskid Sądecki range. Most mountains do not exceed 1200 m asl. The highland is mainly overgrown with trees – a remnant of the primeval Carpathian Forest. High in the mountains the unforgettable views can be seen from the tower on Radziejowa peak or on the hike to Hala Łabowska (Łabowska Pasture) or Ja- worzyna Krynicka peak. The Sądecka land is also an interesting cultural region with dozens of well- preserved Lemko Orthodox churches, among them the Orthodox churches in Andrzejówka, Łosie or Powroźnik. Apart from that, the region is rich in wooden architectural monuments (e.g. the Bee- keeping Museum in Stróże).

Little Beskids Landscape Park This park consists of a small group of mountains separated into two unequal parts by the ravined Soła Valley. Although the mountains do not exceed 1000 m asl, they stand out thanks to the diversified landscape. The park came into existence in 1998 to credit its geographical attributes and preserve its natural qualities. The north-east part of the protected area belongs to Małopolska province. You can set off for the mountains fromSucha Beskidzka or Kocierz pass. The latter begins on an interesting trail towards Leskowiec, leading through the Madohora reserve, which protects a region of the upper subalpine spruce forest and a few picturesque rocks. Leskowiec itself offers a panoramic view of almost all the neighbouring ranges.

20 21 The most beautiful nature reserves

The Wierzchowska Górna Cave, photo by M. Zaręba Climbing in the Bolechowicki Gorge, photo by M. Zaręba Kluczwoda Valley Ruins of the castle in Kluczwoda, photo by M. Zaręba A beautiful dell near Kraków, also called the Wierzchówka Valley, stretches for 6 kilometres from Bębło to Bolechowice. A stream, also dubbed Kluczwoda (meaning wandering water, since it wanders through the valley), meanders into the Rudawa river. The most precious area of great natural interest – a forest gorge with steep sides situated in the lower part of the valley between Gacki and Wierz chowie – has been protected since 1989. The reserve ensconces this characteristic landscape covered with dry-ground forest complexes and xerothermic rock plant formations. One of the valley’s climbing attractions is the Castle Rock with ruins of a knight’s watchtower estimated to date back to the 14th century. However, the greatest treasure of the whole valley is the Wierzchowska Górna Cave situated near the Wierzchowie village. This natural monument is almost one kilometre long, 700 metres of which has been adapted to sightseeing (the longest route of this type in Poland, available only by guided tour: Apr–Nov). The underground route leads through chambers and corridors bejewelled with beautiful mineral deposits.

Bolechowicki Gorge The Bolechowicka Valley, 1.5 kilometres long, is a small wonder of nature. A shallow gorge of rocky walls, which stretches from Karniowice to Bolechowice in the dells near Kraków, is the rock climbers’ favourite destination. Despite the fact that in 1968 the area was designated as a nature reserve, this form of sport is only permitted when using the already fixed hooks on the rocks. The reserve, which is called the Bolechowicki Gorge, protects the site of a characteristic pass – an enormous gate guard- ing the entrance to the valley – and the nearby picturesque limestone rocks and caves as well as the forest communities and xerothermic grass. The reserve also encomy passes the habitat of Betula oy- coviensis (a type of birch tree), interesting karst springs and two small waterfalls. The most impressive element is the gate itself with its 30-metre-high right wing, Filar Abazego (Abazy Pillar), and the even taller 35-metre-high left wing, Filar Pokutników (Pillar of the Penitents). The Gate was once a training ground for the most outstanding Polish alpinists and Himalayan mountaineers, as well as others who want to follow in their footsteps today.

22 23 The most beautiful nature reserves

Biała Woda nature reserve, photo by A. Niedźwieńska Eliaszówka Valley Biała Woda nature reserve, photo by J. Gorlach The nature reserve, created in 1989, graced with beautiful beech wood and complemented by distinct Homole Gorge, photo by T. Gębuś and intriguing limestone rocks, constitutes the Valley’s main conservation area. The valley stretches from Paczółtowice to Czerna and has features of a picturesque gorge in its most interesting part. The Eliaszówka stream flows through the valley, creating numerous swift currents and small waterfalls. Trav- elling along the trail running through the valley, you can admire more than just nature. The monuments of special significance include the early baroqueDiscalced Carmelites monastery complex in Czerna. The church and the monastery are the most beautiful in Poland, with the order once embracing the major part of the valley. Those days are remembered by the ruins of the imposing 17th-century bridge which spanned the Eliaszówka stream. Even today, though in ruins, the construction is very impressive to be- hold. According to local people, the bridge was built by the devil; hence it was called Diabelski Most (Devil Bridge). Nearby, there are a few gushing springs sprouting from the earth. The most well-known is St. Elias’s spring, also called the Spring of Love. It is said that its gushing water has miraculous properties. Homole Gorge and Biała Woda (White Water) Homole Gorge (800 m) is one of the most beautiful corners of the Little Pieniny range. It forms a deep canyon with steep sides (up to 120 metres high) covered scenically with juniper and calcicole plants. The Kamionka stream, whose bed is filled with boulders, flows though the gorge. This romantic corner, adapted and ideal for sightseeing, became a nature reserve in 1963 to protect its landscape and precious geological features. A green trail, which starts just before Jaworki village near Szczawnica, crosses the gorge. A sign marks the entrance to the reserve (just before it, you can find a car park and an inn). Many tales tell have it already by the th5 century the gorge was being explored by treasure hunters. In one of the rocks, called Prokwitowska Homola, the mineshafts of those storied gold-greedy explorers have been found. The first stretch of the trail crosses the canyon, where the lofty rocks can be admired. Further on, the trail leads up through the forest scree towards a glade. Biała Woda nature reserve, which can also be reached from Jaworek city centre, was established and open to the public in 1963, just like the Homole Gorge. This picturesque, almost woodless and wide land can be traversed via the yellow trail, which is perfectly adapted for tourists (with numerous benches and information points provided). The trail ends at the Rozdziele Pass, which demarcates the natural borderline between the Sądecki Beskid and the Little Pieniny range, and offers a beautiful panorama to end your journey.

Homole Gorge and Biała Woda, in-season admission fee (May–Sept): PLN 1.50.

24 25 The most beautiful nature reserves

Skamieniałe Miasto nature reserve, photo by S. Gacek Skamieniałe Miasto nature reserve, photo by S. Gacek Przełom Białki (Białka Gorge) Białka Gorge near Krempachy, photo by J. Gorlach On the west end of the Spiskie Pieniny, near Krempachy village, you can admire the expansive but short gorge of the Białka river, the right tributary of the Dunajec. The beauty of this place is well known not only to naturalists and tourists but also film makers: the local landscape ‘was cast’ in, among other films, Janosik (the Polish version of Robin Hood) in 1974. The area was also well known to the Nean- derthal people whose oldest traces can be found in the Pieniny. In the Obłazowa Cave, thirty thousands years ago, a primitive man even left his weapon: a 70-centimetre-long boomerang made from a mammoth’s tusk. It is the world’s oldest boomerang, with a throwing range of up to 65 metres (dis- played in the PAN Museum in Kraków). The reserve was established in 1959 protecting, apart from the landscape, the relict vegetation covering the rocks. The gorge is guarded by two rocks – Kramnica on the right side and Obłazowa on the left. The walls of the latter are rich in prominent fossils, mainly of Jurassic ammonites. From the vantage point of both rocks, awe-inspiring scenery stretches across the Nowatorska Valley, the Spisz area, as well as the Gorce, Pieniny and Tatra Mountains.

Skamieniałe Miasto (Stone City) This is one of the main attractions and sights of the Carpathian Foothills, a geological reserve where large sandstone rocks of fanciful and splendid shapes can be admired. As a natural monument, the area was already protected in 1932 but became a reserve only a couple of years later in 1974. This place of outstanding beauty is situated within the borders of Ciężkowice town, only 700 metres from the city centre (along the road from Tarnów to Gorlice and Krynica). The rocks, which acquired their shapes under the influence of erosion, bear interesting names. Apart from the Witch with a hooked nose, which guards the city’s entrance, there is also the Town Hall, the Tower, the Club, the Pyramid, and the Badger…. One gathering of rocks has even been dubbed Grunwald in memory of the greatest victory in Polish history. In the vicinity of the reserve there is one more interesting site: the minia- ture – being only 70 metres long – Czarownic (Witches) gorge. It can be reached via the trail from the Stone City. Lastly, the gorges greatest attraction is an impressively large waterfall, which in winter cre- ates a splendid ice wall while in summer plunges resoundingly onto the rocks.

26 27 MałopolskaPunkty Informacji Tourist ITurystycznejnformation System Points

KraKów Tarnów biały Dunajec InfoKraków, ul. Powiśle 11, 31-101 Kraków Rynek 7, 33-100 Tarnów ul. Jana Pawła II 363, 34-425 Biały Dunajec \+48 513 099 688, \+48 14 688 90 90, \+48 18 200 16 90, [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] InfoKraków, ul. Św. Jana 2, 31-018 Kraków Tuchów białKa TaTrzańsKa \+48 12 421 77 87 ul. Chopina 10, 33-170 Tuchów ul. Środkowa 16, 34-405 Białka Tatrzańska InfoKraków, Os. Słoneczne 16, \+48 14 652 54 36, \+48 18 533 19 59, 31-958 Kraków [email protected] [email protected] \+48 12 643 03 03 Dąbrowa TarnowsKa nowy Targ InfoKraków, ul. Józefa 7, 31-056 Kraków ul. Polna 13, 33-200 Dąbrowa Tarnowska Rynek 1, 34-400 Nowy Targ \+48 12 422 04 71 \+48 14 657 00 07, it.dabrowa- \+48 18 266 30 36, [email protected] InfoKraków Sukiennice, [email protected] Rynek Główny 1/3, 31-042 Kraków waDowice rabKa-zDrój \+48 12 433 73 10 ul. Kościelna 4, 34-100 Wadowice ul. Parkowa 2, 34-700 Rabka-Zdrój \+48 33 873 23 65, it.wadowice@msit. \+48 18 269 15 53, InfoKraków Sanktuarium w Łagiewnikach, malopolska.pl [email protected] ul. Siostry Faustyny 3, 30-608 Kraków \+48 12 263 60 64 anDrychów nowy sącz Rynek 27, 34-120 Andrychów ul. Szwedzka 2, 33-300 Nowy Sącz InfoKraków, ul. Szpitalna 25, \+48 33 842 99 36, \+48 18 444 24 22, 31-024 Kraków [email protected] [email protected] \+48 12 432 01 10 sucha besKiDzKa Krynica-zDrój InfoKraków Pawilon Wyspiański, ul. Zamkowa 1, 34-200 Sucha Beskidzka ul. Zdrojowa 4/2, 33-380 Krynica-Zdrój pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2, 31-004 \+48 33 874 26 05, \+48 18 472 55 77, \ +48 12 616 18 86 [email protected] [email protected] InfoKraków Międzynarodowy Port oświęciM liManowa Lotniczy w Balicach, 32-083 Balice ul. St. Leszczyńskiej 12, 32-600 Oświęcim Rynek, 34-600 Limanowa \+48 12 285 53 41 \+48 33 843 00 91, \+48 18 337 58 00, [email protected] [email protected] yślenice M chrzanów biecz Rynek 27, 32-400 Myślenice Aleja Henryka 40, 32-500 Chrzanów Rynek 1, 38-340 Biecz \+48 12 272 23 12, \+48 32 623 20 44, \+48 13 447 92 47, [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] wiśniowa Trzebinia sęKowa Wiśniowa 301, 32-412 Wiśniowa ul. Kościuszki 74, 32-540 Trzebinia Siary 19, 38-307 Sękowa \+48 12 271 44 93, \+48 32 612 14 97, \+48 18 351 87 70, [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Dobczyce zaKopane ul. Podgórska 1, 32-410 Dobczyce ul. Kościeliska 7, 34-500 Zakopane \+48 12 271 01 53, \+48 18 201 20 04, [email protected] [email protected] olKusz poronin ul. Floriańska 8, 32-300 Olkusz ul. Józefa Piłsudskiego 2, 34-520 Poronin \+48 32 72 43 282, \+48 18 207 42 98, [email protected] [email protected] Miechów wiTów Plac Kościuszki 1A, 32-200 Miechów Witów 239A, 34-512 Witów \+48 41 383 13 11, \+48 18 207 18 98, [email protected] [email protected]