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Fashion. Beauty. Business. The Big Night Oscar facts, figures, FEB 2016 celebrity branding and No. 4 red-carpet pointers. Features, p. 40 Marc’s Magic An extraordinary, passionate show punctuated New York Fashion Week. Agenda, p. 12 Bright Lights Designers on the rise and ready to show in Paris. Agenda, p. 30 OSCAR SPECIAL Best actress nominee Brie Larson offers an insider’s view of her whirlwind world — savoring the moment, finding her fashion footing and keeping it real — on the eve of the Academy Awards. Brie Larson US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 photographed UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 by WWD at the EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 Beverly Hilton. THE GIGI THONG SANDAL SAMEDELMAN.COM Edward Nardoza EDITOR IN CHIEF Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon EDITOR Miles Socha EXECUTIVE EDITOR, EUROPE Robb Rice GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR Nick Mrozowski CREATIVE DIRECTOR John B. Fairchild 1927 — 2015 MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS MANAGING EDITOR, OPERATIONS Diana Benbasset DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman TEXTILES & TRADE SENIOR EDITOR, FINANCIAL Vicki M. Young BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET Julie Naughton BEAUTY EDITOR SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale ACCESSORIES MARKET DIRECTOR Roxanne Robinson FASHION MARKET DIRECTOR Mayte Allende EYE EDITOR Taylor Harris MEN’S SENIOR EDITOR Jean E. Palmieri FASHION DIRECTOR Alex Badia MEN’S MARKET EDITOR Luis Campuzano MEN’S REPORTER Aria Hughes MARKET EDITORS FINANCIAL NEWS AND ANALYSIS Debra Borchardt ACCESSORIES Misty White Sidell BEAUTY, FINANCE Allison Collins BEAUTY, MASS MARKET Ellen Thomas DIGITAL Rachel Strugatz READY-TO-WEAR & SPORTSWEAR NEWS Rosemary Feitelberg MEDIA Alexandra Steigrad READY-TO-WEAR AND Kristi Garced SPORTSWEAR FASHION EYE Leigh Nordstrom CORRESPONDENTS LONDON, GENERAL Lorelei Marfil ASSIGNMENT EDITOR ACCESSORIES AND GENERAL Natalie Theodosi ASSIGNMENT EDITOR LOS ANGELES Khanh T.L. Tran, Kari Hamanaka MILAN, FASHION AND NEWS Alessandra Turra NEW YORK, EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS William Cotto, Tara Bonet-Black, Kelsi Zimmerman NEW YORK, FASHION ASSISTANTS Andrew Shang, Kayana Cordwell PARIS, EUROPEAN BEAUTY EDITOR Jennifer Weil PARIS, SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Laurent Folcher PARIS, SENIOR BUSINESS NEWS EDITOR Joelle Diderich PARIS, GENERAL ASSIGNMENT Paulina Szmydke REPORTER, NEWS PARIS, EDITORIAL AND WEB COORDINATOR Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant The GENERAL ASSIGNMENT EDITOR, EUROPE Laure Guilbault SAN FRANCISCO, TECHNOLOGY Maghan McDowell DESIGN DEPARTMENT DESIGNER Jewelyn Butron PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTO DIRECTOR Ash Barhamand Feature SENIOR PHOTO EDITOR Jenna Greene BOOKINGS AND PRODUCTION EDITOR Oona Wally PHOTO EDITOR Katrina Brown MARI MALEK ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Jillian Sollazzo The Oscars PHOTO STUDIO REFUGEE TURNED MODEL AND HUMANITARIAN PHOTO STUDIO COORDINATOR Emily Taylor PHOTOGRAPHERS George Chinsee, 40 From an intimate conversation Thomas Iannaccone SHE REBUILT HER LIFE AND NOW EDUCATES COPYDESK SOUTH SUDANESE CHILDREN ON HOW TO BUILD THEIRS… with Brie Larson, Oscar stats and COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison-Shulas COPY EDITORS Danielle Gilliard, David Podgurski, LOOK GOOD, FOR GOOD. celebrity branding to the big Maxine Wally PREPRESS PRODUCTION players in accessories and what DIGITAL IMAGING Alex Sharfman PREPRESS ASSEMBLY David Lee Chin the nominees should wear, here’s WWD.COM DIGITAL DIRECTOR Danica Lo WWD’s Academy Awards preview. ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Kristen Tauer DIGITAL DAILY DESIGNER Ryan Richmond WEB PRODUCER Robert Tutton Brie Larson’s closet at the Beverly Hilton, INTERNATIONAL DIGITAL EDITOR Fabiana Repaci where she dressed in Emilia Wickstead’s pink PUBLIC RELATIONS skirt and blouse for the Nominees Luncheon. PR COORDINATOR Christina Mastroianni THE COURAGEOUS CLASS Photograph by ART STREIBER Introducing at KennethCole.com Contents Paul Jowdy SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ADVERTISING INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell BEAUTY DIRECTOR Carly Gresh AMERICAN FASHION & Jennifer Petersen LUXURY DIRECTOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Samantha Hartje ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Amy Keiser Shannon Fitzgerald CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Annie Belfield Rachael DeSantis Tina Schissel REGIONAL OFFICES/INTERNATIONAL OFFICES WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren +1-323-965-7283 EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri +39-02-722-33602 ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova +39-02-722-33603 SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright +33-1-44-51-07-611 A look from Ingie Paris. EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas +33-240-31-6541 ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac A few fresh faces prepping to show as the City of Light sets DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer to embark on the fourth leg of the fall runway season. DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Suzette Minetti Paris Ones to Watch, page 30 AUDIENCE MARKETING VICE PRESIDENT Ellen Fairbanks Dealy CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT SENIOR DIRECTOR FINANCE, PLANNING Sean McDermott DEPARTMENTS AND OPERATIONS PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR John Cross 8 Social Studies SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal The best and worst in INSTITUTIONAL SALES SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi social media, whom to SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh Agenda ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch follow. PRODUCTION O Happy Day 12 PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley 10 The Essentialist PRODUCTION MANAGER Providence Rao The clothes were dark, but A digest of the week’s SUMMITS & EVENTS the resulting mood joyful as top stories. VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM Amber Mundinger Marc Jacobs closed the New York EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher fall season with a masterpiece DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES Kim Mancuso 36 Eye SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR Alexis Coyle of daring, extreme, • Parties London’s DIRECTOR OF Amelia Ewert EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING passionate fashion. normally staid party scene breaks out for FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore fashion week. FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR • Report Card From OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT Trending in Vegas 22 bombshell Nina to FINANCE DIRECTOR Devon Beemer DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson Closing the men’s wear season, Burberry beloved the Vegas trade shows provided Rosie, the ladies a fresh take on trends. covered a range in their model-off-duty looks WWD AND FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC this week. ARE DIVISIONS OF PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION Jay Penske Study Hall 26 CHAIRMAN & CEO The Personal Care Products VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne Council will report results at its EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, George Grobar STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS annual meeting in Florida next SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault week, revealing trends including BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT job growth and the industry’s GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene SVP HUMAN RESOURCES contribution to U.S. GDP. VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West Dreading the VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen Report Card, page 38 DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion ‘R’ Word 28 DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS Joni Antonacci As experts debate whether a CONTROLLER Young Ko SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGERS Christina Yeoh, recession looms, retailers are Derek Ramsey being pressured all the more to DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko DIRECTOR OF TALENT ACQUISITION Andy Limpus bring shoppers into stores. ON THE COVER: Photograph by ART STREIBER DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS Rick Gascon, Typographic embellishment by NIM BEN-REUVEN & PRODUCTION Matt Williamson SENIOR IT ANALYST Carl Foner IT ANALYSTS Don Gerber WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 211, NO. 8 Ryan Ramos Wednesday, February 24, 2016. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published weekly, except for the fifth week in August, the second week in September, and the third and fourth weeks in December, with one additional issue in February, April, June, August, October and December, by Fairchild Media LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich - Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: TO CONTACT WWD Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. 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  • The Secret Scripture

    The Secret Scripture

    Presents THE SECRET SCRIPTURE Directed by JIM SHERIDAN/ In cinemas 7 December 2017 Starring ROONEY MARA, VANESSA REDGRAVE, JACK REYNOR, THEO JAMES and ERIC BANA PUBLICITY REQUESTS: Transmission Films / Amy Burgess / +61 2 8333 9000 / [email protected] IMAGES High res images and poster available to download via the DOWNLOAD MEDIA tab at: http://www.transmissionfilms.com.au/films/the-secret-scripture Distributed in Australia by Transmission Films Ingenious Senior Film Fund Voltage Pictures and Ferndale Films present with the participation of Bord Scannán na hÉireann/ the Irish Film Board A Noel Pearson production A Jim Sheridan film Rooney Mara Vanessa Redgrave Jack Reynor Theo James and Eric Bana THE SECRET SCRIPTURE Six-time Academy Award© nominee and acclaimed writer-director Jim Sheridan returns to Irish themes and settings with The Secret Scripture, a feature film based on Sebastian Barry’s Man Booker Prize-winning novel and featuring a stellar international cast featuring Rooney Mara, Vanessa Redgrave, Jack Reynor, Theo James and Eric Bana. Centering on the reminiscences of Rose McNulty, a woman who has spent over fifty years in state institutions, The Secret Scripture is a deeply moving story of love lost and redeemed, against the backdrop of an emerging Irish state in which female sexuality and independence unsettles the colluding patriarchies of church and nationalist politics. Demonstrating Sheridan’s trademark skill with actors, his profound sense of story, and depth of feeling for Irish social history, The Secret Scripture marks a return to personal themes for the writer-director as well as a reunion with producer Noel Pearson, almost a quarter of a century after their breakout success with My Left Foot.