Fashion. Beauty. Business. The Big Night Oscar facts, figures, FEB 2016 celebrity branding and No. 4 red-carpet pointers. Features, p. 40 Marc’s Magic An extraordinary, passionate show punctuated New York Fashion Week. Agenda, p. 12 Bright Lights Designers on the rise and ready to show in Paris. Agenda, p. 30

OSCAR SPECIAL Best actress nominee Brie Larson offers an insider’s view of her whirlwind world — savoring the moment, finding her fashion footing and keeping it real — on the eve of the Academy Awards.

Brie Larson US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 photographed UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 by WWD at the EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 Beverly Hilton. THE GIGI THONG SANDAL

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ADVERTISING INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell BEAUTY DIRECTOR Carly Gresh AMERICAN FASHION & Jennifer Petersen LUXURY DIRECTOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Samantha Hartje ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Amy Keiser Shannon Fitzgerald CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Annie Belfield Rachael DeSantis Tina Schissel REGIONAL OFFICES/INTERNATIONAL OFFICES WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren +1-323-965-7283 EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri +39-02-722-33602 ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova +39-02-722-33603 SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright +33-1-44-51-07-611 A look from Ingie Paris. EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas +33-240-31-6541 ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac A few fresh faces prepping to show as the City of Light sets DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer to embark on the fourth leg of the fall runway season. DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Suzette Minetti Paris Ones to Watch, page 30 AUDIENCE MARKETING VICE PRESIDENT Ellen Fairbanks Dealy CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT SENIOR DIRECTOR FINANCE, PLANNING Sean McDermott DEPARTMENTS AND OPERATIONS PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR John Cross 8 Social Studies SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal The best and worst in INSTITUTIONAL SALES SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi social media, whom to SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh Agenda ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch follow. PRODUCTION O Happy Day 12 PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley 10 The Essentialist PRODUCTION MANAGER Providence Rao The clothes were dark, but A digest of the week’s SUMMITS & EVENTS the resulting mood joyful as top stories. VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM Amber Mundinger Marc Jacobs closed the New York EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher fall season with a masterpiece DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES Kim Mancuso 36 Eye SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR Alexis Coyle of daring, extreme, • Parties London’s DIRECTOR OF Amelia Ewert EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING passionate fashion. normally staid party scene breaks out for FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore fashion week. FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR • Report Card From OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT Trending in Vegas 22 bombshell Nina to FINANCE DIRECTOR Devon Beemer DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson Closing the men’s wear season, Burberry beloved the Vegas trade shows provided Rosie, the ladies a fresh take on trends. covered a range in their

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6 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM Social Studies EDITED BY KRISTEN TAUER THE WEEK IN SOCIAL MEDIA LEADING UP TO THE ACADEMY AWARDS Best Worst

“What color should I wear this weekend?” Julianne Moore focused on Cristina Ehrlich scouted for red-carpet bling the details prior to Sunday. from Jennifer Meyer’s collection.

@_juliannemoore @cristinaehrlich Presenter Stylist

“My #Oscars diet didn’t even last 1 day.” Well, there’s always next year.

@ryanseacrest TV personality

“Rehearsing for Sunday. F---ing scared but also With so many options, nothing (and no one) so excited!! Miss you all x” is a shoo-in this awards season.

@samsmithworld @kateyoung Nominee (Best Original Song) Stylist

Trending LEO’S RED CARPET RAMPAGE It’s Leonardo DiCaprio’s fifth Oscars nomination. Will he win a statue this year? An online game fueled the Let’s hope this isn’t a preview of Jared Leto’s red-carpet look. conversation.

@jaredleto Presenter

Let’s Follow:

@brielarson @markruffalo @marywilesmakeup @chrisrock @elizabethstewart1 Nominee, Actress Nominee, Actor Makeup artist Host Stylist

in a Leading Role in a Supporting Role

8 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM Follow Us @WWD TOP 10 STORIES OF THE WEEK Quote of the Week “She supported all of us designers, but it was never done in a heavy way. The Essentialist It was never ‘Oh, here comes the queen! It’s more like here comes my aunt.’” — Alber Elbaz, on Joan Burstein at her 90th birthday party

London Attack of the Gucci in the Rushing the Follow the Wrapping Stella for Juggles The Ubiquitors Driver’s Seat Runway Money Vegas The Boys Season Issue Though the Gucci has broken its Amid the ongoing It took about a decade The Las Vegas trade Sir Paul McCa- 3 4 losing streak. 6 discussions over 7 and a half for Neiman 8 shows marked the 9 London’s designers Kardashian Organic sales at closing the gap Marcus to find a way official conclusion of rtney is his 2 and brands navigated posse threatened to the Italian brand were up 4.8 between the designer shows into the affluent Long Island the seemingly endless the fall show season percent in the fourth quarter and when consumers can buy, market, long a big void in Nei- fall men’s calendar. Fresh off the designing daughter’s with a large dose of cool and steal fashion week, — marking their strongest Bergdorf Goodman has grabbed man’s national expansion. Yet European and New York runway biggest fan.¶ Soon with the aim of accommodating Macy’s Glass what with their cus- quarterly growth rate in the reins and started a series the Dallas-based luxury chain shows, retailers streamed into he’ll be able to wear the end customer as much as three years and affirming the called “Right from the Runway,” finally found a solution after the Sin City to shop the more com- Half Full they could. tom-Balmain-clad turnaround efforts initiated making a number of New York Roosevelt Field Mall, owned by mercial collections at Project, the label, too: After 15 Burberry, which will begin courtside dance by Gucci president and chief designers’ collections available Simon Property Group, decided Liberty, Capsule, MRket and Is the worst over for to stage combined men’s and executive officer Marco for pre-order — within a week to build a new wing and upgrade Agenda. years plying slouchy 10 Macy’s Inc.? women’s in-season shows party at Yeezy, their Bizzarri and creative director after their fall fashion week dining options and common The challenges are many, tailoring, comfort- Macy’s, after strug- as of September, put its fall Alessandro Michele. presentations in Manhattan. The areas. Last Friday, Neiman’s since holiday sales were medi- gling with warm weather for runway collection on display presence was Items such as Michele’s fur- new take on the classic trunk opened a 105,649-square-foot, ocre and business continues to able knits and effort- much of the winter, declining in the Regent Street flagship relatively light lined Princetown loafers have show will include designers two-level anchor, the company’s be sluggish for most stores. Mer- less separates for tourism and shifting consumer immediately following its show, generated huge waiting lists, Brandon Maxwell, Jason Wu, most technologically advanced chants don’t expect a significant spending patterns, reported Amazon’s and allowed customers to on the front- while stores like Colette, Dover Joseph Altuzarra, Michael Kors unit, with an eye-catching Elkus pickup anytime soon, particularly women, Stella McCa- Tuesday that its net income fell Fashion Push preorder certain pieces. Next row scene Street Market and Bergdorf and Prabal Gurung among those Manfredi-designed exterior cov- in light of the distraction of the rtney is to turn her 31.5 percent in the fourth quarter week, the collection travels to Goodman have showcased the Consumer greeting customers at the store ered with 2,100 shimmering alu- upcoming presidential election. ended Jan. 30, while total sales the Rue du Faubourg Saint- through- attention to the bur- declined 5.2 percent, and 4.8 Amazon quietly designer’s new retail concept. Shows? with next season’s offerings. The minum panels, and the expected Even so, they did find several 1 launched at least seven Honoré flagship in Paris. out the week. In 2015, 34 directly owned concept is one that is available concentration of European and items they hope will lure shop- geoning men’s mar- percent on a comparable- private-label fashion Mulberry plans to start stores were revamped and France Says online at sites like Moda Operan- American designer brands and pers as the year progresses. store basis. brands recently and is now delivering its collection Kylie Jenner, how- an additional 60 overhauls di, but Bergdorf’s appears to be exclusives. These were centered primarily ket. The designer For the year, Macy’s net looking to build out its team to earlier than ever — in ever, carried the are scheduled this year. By ‘Non’ one of the first brick-and-mortar “Because we don’t open too around sportswear and included — who once honed declined 30 percent while total ramp up the effort. April — in a bid to sidestep the end of 2016, Michele’s retailers to do it so soon after many stores, we do a tremen- textured knits, joggers, stretch sales dropped 3.7 percent and KeyBanc Capital Markets the high-street copyists appearance-fee creations should make up the Vive la différence! the shows. dous amount of research on cus- denim and cargo pants. The her skills working for 2.5 percent on a comparable analyst Edward Yruma noted and get key pieces into weight for the full assortment of merchandise, 5 France’s governing Bergdorf’s move comes as tomer demographics and psy- braver stores might even choose Edward Sexton, her basis. the company has about 1,800 consumers’ hands quickly versus 30 percent in the fourth fashion body has there appears to be a growing chographics,” before deciding on to dabble in belted kimonos as a However in January, the com- stockkeeping units for sale and at full price. clan, going to quarter. decided to burnish its reputation division among the world’s a site, said Karen Katz, president trend piece, along with textured father’s Savile Row pany saw a pickup in business as under its own fashion names, Other labels — including shows ranging from The only dark spot? The for creative design and say “non” fashion capitals about the show- and chief executive officer of the shearlings, bold plaids and tailor — is readying the weather got colder, and for including: Franklin & Freeman, Alexander Lewis and Victoria declining profitability of the to consumer-facing runways. now, buy-now idea. New York Neiman Marcus Group. geometric quilting effects. 2016, the outlook is better than Franklin Tailored, James & Erin, Victoria Beckham — took pains Alexander Wang brand, which accounts for more The Paris shows are to and London are for it, Paris and There’s also not that much lux- The women’s shows sent a her first men’s col- what transpired in 2015. Macy’s Lark & Ro, North Eleven, Scout + to create pieces in lighter- to Boss to Vera than two-thirds of recurring continue taking place a season Milan, not so much. Revealing ury competition on Long Island. similar message: after a tough lection for spring expects to see a comp-store Ro and Society New York. weight fabrics that could be operating income at parent before collections are sold at his view, Kering chief executive To some extent, Neiman’s will fourth quarter, things aren’t look- sales decline of 1 percent for the The goods range from men’s worn with or without tights, or Wang, where company Kering. retail, with the next session officer François-Henri Pinault vie for upscale customers with ing particularly bright for retail’s 2017, said market year overall, with sales turning dress shoes and women’s layered with knits, depending on she watched As a result, Kering has scheduled for March 1 to 9, said, “In luxury, I think that is a Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s, immediate future. Vendors that sources.¶ While the positive in the fourth quarter. bags to dresses and children’s the temperature. put its brands on a diet. showcasing lines for fall. mistake. The notion of two longstand- managed decent business were Chairman and chief executive fashions. “I’ve always wanted to have sister Ken- Gucci and Bottega Veneta “As far as we are concerned, ‘see-now, wear-now, ing anchors focused on the less fashion-for- designer is mum on officer Terry J. Lundgren said lots “Amazon will use private label an element of buy-now, wear- dall on the will close underperforming the present system is still valid,” or sell-now,’ for in Roosevelt ward, quick-turn items, even the project, men’s of changes have been made and selectively, which should both now in the collection,” said stores in Hong Kong and said Ralph Toledano, president example, is a nega- Field. There off-price — tried and true, and many more are ahead. Macy’s enhance the offering and induce Beckham during a walkthrough catwalk. ¶ Per- Mainland China this year, of the Fédération Française de tion of dreaming, of will also affordable. wear could repre- has rolled out new formats traditional apparel vendors to of her second line in London. haps the most and investments will be la Couture du Prêt-à-Porter des desire,” he said. “The be serious The shows were also filled with sent a rich expan- for jewelry and clearances, sell to Amazon,” Yruma said. “It’s interesting to see all the conditional on improving free Couturiers et des Créateurs de catwalk show is an competition outerwear — ironic, since the intensified investments in “Apparel is a large category that changes happening in the ubiquitous was one cash flow and same-store sales. Mode. integral part of the with the winter has been quite mild for sion for the house, mobile, stepped up store events, remains highly fragmented. We industry, and we are thinking Jaime King. There — JOELLE DIDERICH The unanimous decision creative process. You Americana much of the country this year. launched in 2001 as and is refining its My Macy’s, think the low barriers to entry, about them.” of the federation’s executive don’t cut the creative Manhasset, But many of the puffer jackets, omnichannel and Magic Selling size and significant competitive Ken Downing, senior vice was Jaime shimmy- board puts Paris in alignment process in two in a with its concen- anoraks and shearlings that a joint venture with strategies, collectively known as set make this an attractive president and fashion director ing at Yeezy, and sit- with Milan — and in contrast to luxury brand.” tration of design- filled the floors touted more than MOM, and its focus on localizing category for Amazon. While at Neiman Marcus, concurred New York, where the Council of — DIANNE M. POGODA er shops. just warmth, and highlighted Kering, then PPR. assortments and enhancing apparel is one of Amazon’s that London designers took ting in the front row Fashion Designers of America Neiman’s sees their technical attributes as McCartney’s last big “personalization” efforts. fastest-growing categories, a lighter approach to fabrics at Jason Wu, and is exploring whether fashion the regional opportunity. well. So even if Mother Nature While Macy’s has been more work must be done for the this season. “I actually thought shows should feature in-season Besides Roosevelt Field, the doesn’t cooperate again next category launch was under pressure from activist business to scale.” fabric weights had a lighter again at Christian collections that are already on company is renovating and ex- year, stores will at least have children’s wear in shareholders to monetize and To bring a little Seventh Avenue hand on the runway, and I Siriano. And oh look! racks. Meanwhile, Burberry, Tom panding its Bergdorf Goodman something to talk about. find alternative uses for much to Seattle, the company has was happy to see that British Ford and Mulberry are among women’s store, and also plans to — JEAN E. PALMIERI 2010.¶ She’s also no of its real estate, at least one listings for a head of marketing designers understand that Jaime at Monse. And London-based brands that plan open in 2018 a Neiman Marcus slouch in the sports real estate deal is expected to and senior brand manager, bonded, boiled, heavy, scratchy, Altuzarra. And Pra- to adopt a consumer-focused unit in Hudson Yards under de- be revealed this year, possibly a senior sourcing manager and dry fabrics are not what a model to narrow the gap velopment on the West Side. department, hav- joint venture. senior merchandiser for its customer embraces,” he said. bal. And Baja East. between runway and delivery. — DAVID MOIN ing designed a range “There are lots of interested “It’s not how a customer shops.” parties,” Lundgren told WWD. “An Amazon Fashion Private Label How she powered According to Toledano, if it ain’t of athletic apparel unit. One posting noted the — SAMANTHA CONTI Stat of the Week broke… actual transaction takes a long group was “looking for a dynamic through, we’d love to The federation’s task force for Adidas for a time. Remember, the Brooklyn senior brand manager to drive found that luxury consumers transaction took more than a the DNA and face of a new know. Rest up Jaime don’t seem to be up in arms Revolving Door H.R. Moves decade.¶ It is under- year.” Lundgren wants to add a brand.” — we’ll see you in about having to wait for clothes stood the men’s wear real estate executive full time at If the e-commerce giant gets to arrive in stores. And the Top-level changes this week: London-based designer Emilia Wickstead revealed a new chief executive offi- Macy’s, and not someone from private label right — and that’s a September. French fashion business seems cer, Karl Monge; her plans to expand in the U.S., and the opening of her refurbished store in London. Monge volley is one of sev- the department store industry. — LEIGH NORDSTROM $3.4 trillion mighty big “if” — Amazon could in fine fettle, logging strong was consulting for the company since September, and prior to that was head of international business at eral initiatives McCa- “It will be a true real estate professional. We have never not only fatten its own margins, The estimated purchasing gains for two decades, providing Oscar de la Renta…Christopher Stephen West has left the Traub business development firm to join but further squeeze a large power of Millenials by 2018 500,000 jobs and generating 125 Borghese as global president, a new position, aiming to relaunch the venerable skin-care and color cosmet- rtney has in the had someone with this kind of swath of the apparel world. billion euros, or $138 billion, in ics brand.…British men’s wear house Kent & Curwen has appointed a new creative director, Daniel Kearns, works. — MILES SOCHA experience before.” — D.M. Source: JLL — EVAN CLARK revenues. — MILES SOCHA Eichner Steve Elbaz by Will Ragozzino; King by Jenna Greene; by Jenner photograph who has worked for brands as diverse as Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen and Façonnable.

10 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM Illustrations by KYLE HILTON WWD.COM FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 11 AGENDA O Happy Day The clothes were dark, but the resulting mood joyful as Marc Jacobs closed the FASHION NOIR: Against a stark white set, New York fall season with a masterpiece Jacobs presented 12 minutes or so of a million ideas, of daring, extreme, passionate fashion. including grand-scale By BRIDGET FOLEY evening gowns. If there were an Oscar for best dress...

Photograph by THOMAS IANNACCONE WWD.COM FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 13 MATERIAL MATTERS: The collection featured an array of fabrics, from intensely wrought tweeds and brocades to gentle prints AGENDA of unlike beings — cats, rats, ballerinas and cherubs by the illustrator Tabboo. For this skirt, Jacobs worked strange bedfellows: vinyl and broderie anglaise.

ONE OF THE GIRLS: Lady Gaga walked the show without fanfare. Backstage, she readied for the marcel-coif treatment. Waves plastered flat and black eyes and lipstick gave the models an eerie, surreal aura.

14 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM Photograph by KYLE ERICKSEN Photograph by STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE DARK VICTORY: Jacobs’ wondrous, eccentric pilings of tweeds, brocades, furs, silks and endless decoration drew from numerous wells — Victoriana-meets-Goth- meets-Biker-Chic-meets- Violet-Incredible and other girls of Jacobs’ runways past.

Photograph by STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE AGENDA

HIGH-STEPPING: Jacobs’ mile-high platforms anchored a silhouette that was both long and voluminous. Extreme embellishment, including ample use of feathers, (opposite) heightened the stunning aura. “I mean, it’s just fashion,” Jacobs said.

18 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM Photograph by GEORGE CHINSEE Photograph by STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE AGENDA

HEAVEN BACKSTAGE: A goth rose and a quick text check.

20 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM Photograph by STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE ADVERTISEMENT

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Looking back, it’s as if designers had a tip about the freezing temps that would beset New Revenant York Fashion Week. Intarsia was the buzzword between talk of Bowie tributes and the “buy it now” trend. Mink, sable and fox added timeless luxury to modern tailoring, and fur added to cuff or collar equaled the perfect armor for Dennis The Barbara Ohne Proenza Marc marching into any polar vortex. Basso Row Tfank Rodarte Altuzarra Titel Schouler Jacobs OUTERWEAR CAPES WOOLRICH Trending In Vegas Closing the men’s wear season, the Vegas trade shows provided a fresh take on trends Understated such as geometric quilting and textured Luxury shearlings while adding outerwear-inspired kimonos and oversize denim jeans to the set of new directional ideas for fall. By ALEX BADIA and LUIS CAMPUZANO

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22 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM Photographs by BRYAN HARAWAY; Model: YOUSEF at WILHELMINA #FUR NOW WWW.FURINSIDER.COM AGENDA UTILITY JACKETSUTILITY SEMPACH BOLD PLAIDS BARENA UNITED ARROWS &SONS KIMONOS OLD HANDS158 VOLUME JEANS FLAT LENSES SPITFIRE

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Key Findings issues with two groups — NGOs and California PCPC’s analysis of the beauty industry. and its regulations — Westine said PCPC is having meaningful conversations with both parties. Study “We’ve had a lot of California lobby days and we now have relationships with people in the state and Congress, so when something comes up we’re AGENDA able to tamp it down a little bit,” said Westine, noting that Sen. Dianne Feinstein (D, Calif.) has Hall helped facilitate dialogues between the factions. “Also, we’ve done well reaching out to certain PCPC data show moderate NGOs. We’ve even had conversations with those that, in the past, were not as reason- huge leap in jobs. able or basing their arguments on sound science. By JULIE NAUGHTON We’re having dialogues, rather than sitting in our $600 $490 respective offices and throwing bombs at each The amount of How much other. Based on a lot of those conversations, money the money was average U.S. spent in a year we’ve seen a lot fewer attacks on the industry. I household spent by households anticipate, and I’m very hopeful, that we will have ore than $236.9 billion. during 2013 on led by persons several NGO partnerships to announce soon.” personal care aged 75 and That is the personal-care products and older. Expected to help with the education process, industry’s contribution to services. cosmeticsinfo.org, PCPC’s ingredient Web site, the gross domestic product has grown 112 percent, said Westine, and it’s been of the U.S., according to a rejiggered to be more consumer-friendly. Mstudy that the Personal Care There will also be a focus on international busi- Products Council will roll ness. “We’ve strengthened our environmental sci- out at its annual meeting at the Breakers in Palm ence capability, and we’re working hard on global Beach, Fla., next week. harmonization,” Westine said. “At this meeting, The unveiling of the study will occur just as we will have a dozen or so different international Thia Breen, group president for North America associations, and on Wednesday [March 2] we at the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., makes her debut will have a global summit, where we’ll go over as PCPC chairman. In a wide-ranging interview work projects and key issues, such as microbeads, with WWD, Breen discussed some of the issues e-commerce and digital communication. I believe that the conference will tackle. She noted that it’s a great service to the industry, to show that we the industry is enjoying high growth, and that have one voice and one vision for beauty.” industry figures are more robust given that The One issue likely to arise is China’s controversial NPD Group now includes additional channels compulsory animal testing and ingredient registra- of distribution, mostly involved in direct selling, tion policies, and Westine noted that the organiza- including Ulta Beauty. tion recently sent a delegation to China to discuss One touchy issue is bound to be the question of possible solutions. Another delegation headed to how to provide more employment, especially for Between 1990 and 2014 Brussels to hash out European Union concerns, the middle class, as debates over income inequal- such as microbeads, with Cosmetics Europe. ity rage over the political landscape. “Right now, we don’t launch in China at the Again, the new report had something to say same time as we do everywhere else, because the on the issue. Lezlee Westine, president and +43% +62% registration policies are so onerous,” Breen said. chief executive officer of PCPC, said of the Price- Last year’s hot-button issue, the Trans-Pacific waterhouseCoopers study, the Partnership Agreement, has made significant industry was responsible for progress. The agreement, which includes 12 providing more than 3.6 mil- countries — the U.S., Japan, Malaysia, Vietnam, Growth in Growth of lion jobs. The states with the employment in employment in Singapore, Brunei, Australia, New Zealand, Can- largest number of jobs directly the U.S. personal the services ada, Mexico, Chile and Peru — has been compared care products segment. and indirectly supported by the industry. to the European Union agreement. TPP’s goal, industry are California, Texas, PCPC says, is to strengthen economic ties between New York, Florida and Illinois, 2013 contribution2013 Contribution to gross domestic to GDP product($ billions) (in billions) member nations and remove onerous tariffs. The Thia Breen she noted. agreement was finalized in October and signed in According to the study, in New Zealand on Feb. 4. 2013, the average U.S. house- “With the inclusion of an Annex on cosmetics hold spent more than $600 products, TPP is the first trade agreement to pro- on personal-care products and $140.1 $236.9 $96.8 mote regulatory convergence and address techni- Indirect & Total Impact Direct services. Industry products and Induced Impact cal barriers to trade that impede the personal-care services are purchased by indi- Impact products industry,” said Francine Lamoriello, viduals of all ages; for example, executive vice president of global strategies for households led by individuals PCPC. “The Annex provides an important frame- Lezlee Westine age 75 and over spent more work for international regulatory best practices than $490 annually on average. that will raise standards and allow our industry to Between 1990 and 2014, employment in the U.S. that creative technology and breakthrough prod- continue to provide safe, innovative products in a personal-care products industry increased by 43 ucts often come from these niche players. timely fashion to consumers around the world.” percent. Much of the growth in the personal-care Biggest legislative issues? “This year, we were Continued Lamoriello: “The cosmetic and per- products industry is attributable to the services successful in getting the microbeads legislation sonal-care products industry is a global industry segment, where employment increased by 62 through,” Westine said. “We’ve proven that even that requires open markets and transparent, percent over this period. in a dysfunctional political environment, we’re consistent regulatory environments. International Breen’s first priority, she said, is to ensure the able to get things done. We continue to stay very trade is a critical component to the success of our organization is serving all member companies, strongly committed to bipartisan cosmetics leg- industry, and significantly contributes to our abil- particularly by staying close to state- and feder- islation. We’ve been at it a long time, and we’re ity to compete globally, to expand manufacturing al-level legislative issues. “There’s a lot of interest very optimistic — many key committees have said and employment, and to support other industries, in our industry, and that means sometimes there they want to work with us, so we think 2016 is our such as advertising, packaging and transporta- are different regulations that we need to be aware year. Also, we continue to show that the need to tion. The personal-care products industry also of. Also, the strength of small businesses is a very promote sound science is key.” provides continued technological innovation and important component for us,” said Breen, noting While once PCPC could be counted on to have supports small- and medium-sized businesses.” ■ Illustration by Carlos Monteiro by Illustration

26 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM Photographs by GEORGE CHINSEE nor are they making any promises about 2017 since the dangers are growing. Fiscal threats eas- LUXE MEETS LUSH IN THE ARIZONA DESERT ily whip around the world and gum up the U.S. economic machine, which is already burdened by the collapse in commodity prices and nervous consumers. AGENDA “Right now, the most likely scenario is we’re going to continue in this phase of midgear growth overall in retail with a very soft price environ- ment,” said Doug Hermanson, principal econo- mist at Kantar Retail. “To me, the recession would have to come from China stumbling and that creat- ing a domino effect that falls into Europe, which is a much bigger [market] to the multinational firms that make up the stock market.” Europe presents an uncertainty of its own. After years of fretting over whether the relatively small Greece might leave the European Union, the U.K. struck a deal with its neighbors just Friday that might lead to a referendum on whether the world’s fifth-largest economy stays in the bloc. A world-class CURATED RETAIL EXPERIENCE That’s just another question mark for Wall Street. Already investors have been rattled by the rise of untraditional presidential candidates Don- ald Trump and Bernie Sanders, repeated warning A LUSH ENVIRONMENT with epic views flags out of China and a collapse in the global oil market that’s put crude under $30 a barrel. of CAMELBACK MOUNTAIN Fueling up at the pump might be considerably cheaper, but that’s more than offset by all the uncertainty in the world. AL FRESCO DINING venues with personality The 100 companies in the WWD Global Stock Tracker have been on a roller-coaster ride that’s left them at about flat for the year so far. But the Dow Jones Industrial Average is down about 6 CHIC RESIDENTIAL offerings percent, widening the cracks at the top of the consumer pyramid — and they’re beginning to penetrate farther down. THE RITZ-CARLTON, PARADISE VALLEY “There are vulnerabilities, especially in luxury spending in 2016,” Hermanson said. “Those are completes the destination’s appeal the areas that are going to pull back first, those highly discretionary, big-ticket items.” It’s not just the well-heeled. People are simply not spending like they were. A recent survey by the National Retail Federation showed that 49.2 percent of people who anticipate a tax refund this FOR RETAIL AND DINING LEASING year are planning to “save the money rather than OPPORTUNITIES, PLEASE CONTACT: spending it right away.” Retail sales have generally been blah — or worse. Wal-Mart Stores Inc. last week warned that sales FIVE STAR DEVELOPMENT GROUP would be flat this year after falling 0.7 percent 1.866.540.STAR (7827) last fiscal year. Nordstrom the same day said net Dreading profits dropped 29.4 percent in the fourth quarter, the second bad quarter for the retailer in a row. CURATION BY RETAIL PORTFOLIO SOLUTIONS “There is decent-to-strong growth overall, but a lot of that spending power is going into other places,” said Frank Badillo, director of research at Macro Savvy. “It’s going into buying cars. It’s going The ‘R’ Word into eating out. And it’s going into primarily other THEPALMERAIE.COM services…health care is taking a little more out of people’s pockets.” As experts debate whether a recession Even though the U.S. is not currently in a looms, apparel shoppers are staying home recession, Badillo said, “If you look at retail, there are sectors that are performing at levels and saving their money. that it’s not surprising people might think we’re in a recession.” By EVAN CLARK Don’t expect that feeling to go away. “What is probably certain is that there will be another crisis,” said Bernard Arnault, chairman recession’s coming. in broad measures of equity prices, higher bor- and chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hen- Next month, next year, one rowing rates for riskier borrowers, and a further nessy Louis Vuitton, at a recent news conference. day. The question is only when appreciation of the dollar.” “You have to be optimistic in the long term and — trees don’t grow to the That, along with the Fed’s decision to pause on pessimistic in the short term. That allows you to sky and economic expansions its long-anticipated plan to raise interest rates, prepare for the worst.” A don’t last forever. signal just how on edge the American economy Flashing a grin, Arnault appeared undaunted: Federal Reserve chairman is despite traditional signs of strength, such as “We do best when the economic outlook is more Janet Yellen told Congress this month: “Financial unemployment of just 4.9 percent. difficult. It’s quite surprising.” conditions in the United States have recently Experts are relatively sure that the U.S. is safe, That might be true for LVMH and Arnault, but become less supportive of growth, with declines for this year. But they aren’t absolutely certain it’s certainly not the case for everyone. ■

28 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM Illustration by JANNE IIVONEN AGENDA Rising And Ingie Paris DESIGNER: Ingie Chalhoub FOUNDED: 2009 BASED IN: Paris Ready SHOWING: Presentation at the Bristol, March 3 PARIS PREVIEW OBusinesswoman Ingie Paris is prepping to embark on Chalhoub launched her namesake Ingie Paris line the fourth leg of the fall runway in 2009, merging her Mid- marathon, amid soft tourism dle Eastern sensibility with a sense of Parisian chic. and heightened security. But Using luxurious fabrics the shows do go on. Here are — silk and viscose velvet, wool crepe and loden, a few fresh faces to keep an silk chiffon, embroidered eye on during the season. lace and signature lamé jacquard — and high-qual- ity production, the line is By LAURENT FOLCHER entirely crafted in France, with the exception of its knitwear and shoes, both made in Italy. Following her Warhol- inspired pre-fall collection, Chalhoub’s fall offering is dedicated to Diana Vreeland — a photo of the famous editor clad in red in her living room is the basis for a graphic, rich red color juxtaposed with black. The designer is keen to develop some exclu- sive prints and couture embroideries. This season, she creates watercolor Liberty-style flowers mixed with little hearts and stars printed on silk georgette, or on metallic satin for cocktail and eveningwear, as well as a disco-style jumpsuit. The newly launched shoe line of stiletto pumps is made with luxe fabrics that match the clothes. With exclusive distribution at Le Bon Marché in Paris, and stores opening in Abu Dhabi and Riyadh this spring, the label is on the rise. Prices range between 2,490 and 4,390 euros, or $2,745 and $4,840, for the most embellished evening styles; coats are about 1,460 euros, or $1,610, and knit tops are 490 euros, or $540.

30 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM Photograph by FRANCK MURA streetwear aesthetic, and the ankle with industrial Y/PROJECT gradually added women’s drawstring details, or DESIGNER: Glenn Martens pieces to the men’s line each sculptural graphic necklines FOUNDED: 2010; women’s season. Now, he’s getting and high pleated collars line launched in 2014. ready for a big push with a on long dresses. He’ll also AGENDA BASED IN: Paris full runway show on the offi- offer some of his men’s SHOWING: On the runway, cial Paris calendar. As com- styles in glitzier versions, March 1 mercially successful as the such as shearling jackets men’s lineup, the women’s made of strips of sheepskin OFlemish designer Glenn collection follows the same in an aluminum foil finish. Martens, a classmate of aesthetic, with plays on tex- Y/Project’s women’s line Antonin Tron’s at The Royal ture and shape, but some has been doubling its Academy of Fine Arts in feminine dramatic effects, distribution every season, Antwerp, took over Y/Proj- such as extralong sleeves with prices ranging from 175 ect, a men’s wear label that on translucent blouses euros, or $195 at current specializes in leather, in Sep- and dresses ballooning at exchange, for a T-shirt, to tember 2013. He’s turned it the cuffs; ultralong tailored 3,500 euros, or $3,895, for a into his own medieval-tinged pants gathered around shearling coat.

waiting to find the right man- The mix-and-match ATLEIN ufacturer to finally launch,” wardrobe of the 38-piece DESIGNER: Antonin Tron he declared. That producer fall collection, made of FOUNDED: 2016 is a factory specializing in viscose or silk and cotton BASED IN: Paris jersey, located in northeast- ribbed jersey, doesn’t follow SHOWING: By appointment ern France, where he found any specific theme, but the from March 3 to 10; the expertise needed to 31-year-old Tron, a surfing Riccardo Grassi Show- develop his sculpted fluid devotee, cited the land- room international@ silhouettes. The line is en- scape of France’s Atlantic riccardograssi.com tirely made with jersey, with coast as an influence for his some dresses created from sensual pieces executed OAntonin Tron, a graduate intricate patterns twisting in a palette of dusty pink, of The Royal Academy of and draping with contrasted pebble white and gray-blue, Fine Arts in Antwerp, who’s topstitching construc- evoking the colors of sky been working in Balencia- tions, a style the designer and sea. Prices range from ga’s studio with its three last described as “structured 400 euros, or $444 at designers, has been under flou,” citing British designer current exchange, for a top, the radar. “I’ve had this Jean Muir as a big influence to 2,000 euros, or $2,220, project for a while, but was on his work. for a dress.

32 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM Photographs by DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE AGENDA

Cyclas DESIGNER: Keiko Onose FOUNDED: 2007 BASED IN: Tokyo SHOWING: At Talent To Trend showroom, March 5 to 10; Stan@talent-to- trend.com

OOriginally, Keiko Onose, owner and designer of The Secret Closet, created a private-label line seven years ago to be sold only in her own four stores, alongside the collections of Céline, Lanvin and Saint Laurent. Now entering the international wholesale market, the line has been renamed Cyclas, referring to an ancient piece of clothing worn during the Middle Ages. With a buyer-to-buyer approach, Onose aims to create a desirable contemporary wardrobe of luxury essen- tials with modern fit, inter- esting volumes and a keen attention to quality and details like hand-frayed edges and double-faced constructions. She wants her collec- tions to be easy-care and travel-friendly, calling them urban uniforms for real life. Though appearing minimalist, with hidden buttons and spare details, her designs are never as simple as they seem, expressing her Japanese sensibility via little twists in construction for a modern style. This fall marks the first season Cyclas will offer denim and shoes, such as mink slippers and sandals. Particularly focused on comfort and texture, her cashmere knits have a mink fur touch achieved via a special brushed treatment making the sweaters ultrasoft and slightly fluffy. All made in Japan, the Cyclas line ranges from 350 euros, or $385, for a top, to 2,000 euros, or $2,200, for a trenchcoat, to 4,800 euros, or $5,295, for a mink-trimmed cash- mere coat.

34 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM Erin O’Connor at the Naked Heart Foundation Fund Fair. Karlie Kloss

The normally sleepy party scene who are transforming the world,” during London Fashion Week said Jacobs after Ditto wrapped was punched up a notch over the up her set. weekend, starting with Saturday The following night, fashion night’s Fabulous Fund Fair, in luminaries turned out to cel- which cohosts Natalia Vodi- ebrate London’s best-known anova and Karlie Kloss reprised luxury shopkeeper, Joan Burst- their roles as ringmasters. In its ein (known in the industry simply second year, the fair was twice as Mrs. B.). “A 90th birthday as big and just as much fun as party — this is so rock ’n’ roll,” said Anna Cleveland the first go-around. Simone Rocha as she stepped and Kiki Willems They took over the cavern- into Claridge’s ballroom. at the Marc Jacobs dinner. Beth Ditto and Marc Jacobs ous Old Billingsgate Market for A jazz and swing band played the bash, which raised 835,000 Frank Sinatra and Nina Simone pounds (about $1.2 million) for tunes as guests, Champagne the Naked Heart Foundation flutes in hand, filed through the Party City From a full-throttle, children’s charity. doors into what felt like one big Some 500 guests wandered family affair, with Burstein’s chic from stand to stand, spending grandchildren — and great-grand- three-ring circus to a designer- their carnival tokens on various children — dancing and weaving luxury experiences. The model around the room, thick with cohosts put their fashion friends nearly 200 guests. They included to work for the cause: Natasha some of her oldest friends and dotted birthday party, London Poly kept a close eye on the Re- protégés — John Galliano, Alber possi Hook-a-Duck pool; Stephen Elbaz, Manolo Blahnik, Stephen Jones lured people to his stand, Jones, Rita and Angela Missoni threw some of the best bashes where ping-pong balls had to and Sir Philip Green. land in three pots of the same Burstein, dressed in a long color to win a hat; Stella Mc- vintage Céline dress with lace of the Collections season thus Cartney, Tali Lennox and Amber sleeves, worked the room, greet- Le Bon comanaged the Arcade ing her guests with hugs. “She Games, and Mariacarla Boscono looks like she’s about 60 — it’s manned the Givenchy Tattoo incredible,” said Green. “She’s SAT, FEB 20 TO SUN, FEB 21 far. Milan and Paris, take note. Alber Elbaz Parlor, where specially designed good with people, and through- Stephen Jones temporary tattoos were sten- out her life she’s also been a Georgia May Jagger Joan Burstein and ciled onto guests. “It’s been a bit great finder of talent. She had at the Marc Jacobs John Galliano tricky because it’s winter and everything before everyone else dinner. people are so covered-up,” said did, and was the first to bring Boscono, sporting a big black Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein to star on each shoulder blade. “But the U.K.” I talked a few men into opening Burstein opened shops for their shirts and having big tat- those American designers, toos put on their hairy chests.” and was also the first to bring Across town, Marc Jacobs the edgiest French and Italian was hosting a far more intimate brands to the U.K. in the Seven- affair, a dinner to toast Marc ties, when many well-heeled Jacobs Beauty, which launched British women were still having at Harrods exclusively in the their clothes made by dressmak- U.K. earlier this month. Beth ers. In the Eighties, she regularly Ditto, rocking a hot pink beehive, took risks on very young design- performed after the dinner at ers — like Galliano, Alexander Mc- the underground Club Chinois Queen, and Hussein Chalayan in Mayfair, singing a slow, soulful among them. rendition of David Bowie’s “Let’s “I owe my career to Mrs. B.,” Dance,” with everyone — includ- said an ebullient Galliano before ing the e-cigarette-puffing de- dinner. “She came to see my signer and guests Thomas Tait, graduate collection in 1984, Giles Deacon, Gwendoline Chris- and before I knew it, I was in the tie and Katie Grand — joining in. window at Browns — and my first “I love women — and I have been customer was Diana Ross.”

Jacobs dinner photographs by Richard Young; Fund Fair by James Mason; Burstein party by Antonio Salgado Antonio party by James Mason; Burstein by Fund Fair Young; Richard by Jacobs dinner photographs so lucky. I have this amazing — SAMANTHA CONTI Manolo Blahnik at Arizona Muse at Daisy Lowe at AND JULIA NEEL Joan Burstein’s the Naked Heart the Naked Heart tracking device for lovely women Alexa Chung at the Marc Jacobs dinner.

birthday party. Foundation Fund Fair. Foundation Fund Fair. TYRH

Edited by TAYLOR HARRIS WWD.COM FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 37 Report Card Model Citizens From bombshell Nina to Burberry beloved Rosie, the ladies covered a range in their model-off-duty looks this week. 16 / Close March : Feb ue: ruar DWhile we applaud D She really is a DThe overly dyed DThe hair is major Iss y 2 4 his efforts to stay baby Kate. We’re black hair; the use — the length and / in shape, the British loving the volume of eyeliner and the bend are perfectly M a prime minister is of these natural facial hair make him face-framing te mixing brands, color waves. The subtle look like an aging while still looking r ia palettes, etc. touch of peachy- rock star in a crisis. effortless. ls : The lime-green cream blush gives The ill-fitting This ensemble F D D D e paneling detail is her a glow. tuxedo with its — from the sharp b B r slenderizing; but it D With its modish unnecessary vest shoulders to the u clashes with the vibes, this gives a makes him look Sgt. Pepper-esque a A r baby-blue stripe of subtle London nod. barrel chested. And button detail — y

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Nina Agdal Tim Cook Suki Waterhouse Denny Hamlin NASCAR/NASCAR via Getty Images; Tim Cook by Photo by REX/Shutterstock; Cameron by Steve Back/REX/Shutterstock; Depp by MediaPun Depp by Back/REX/Shutterstock; Steve by Cameron REX/Shutterstock; by Photo Cook by Images; Tim via Getty NASCAR/NASCAR Lottie Moss photograph by Richard Young/REX/Shutterstock; Huntington-Whiteley, Waterhouse by Photo by David Fisher/REX/Shutters by Photo by Waterhouse Huntington-Whiteley, Young/REX/Shutterstock; Richard by Moss photograph Lottie FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR [email protected] 38 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM Best actress nominee Brie Larson savors her moment in the sun while sharing her “trippy” journey from indie ingénue to major actress. She may be juggling designer gowns, but says, “My whole world doesn’t need to change just yet.” By MARCY MEDINA Photographs by ART STREIBER Typographic embellishment by NIM BEN-REUVEN

WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00  It’s several hours before

the Academy Awards Nominees Luncheon is set to begin at the Beverly Hilton Hotel, and Brie Larson rolls into her suite wearing dark jeans, a black sweater, ankle boots and zero makeup. She could be any pretty young woman arriving at the hotel from the airport; she did in fact just step off a 14-hour flight from Australia, one of the many far-flung locations where she’s been shooting “Kong: Skull Island” for the last four months. ¶ This crazy juxtaposition of CRISTINA EHRLICH CRISTINA worlds — the Hollywood glamour surrounding a STYLING: STYLING: first-time Best Actress nominee; the dark indie film “Room” that showcased her talent and set her on the Oscar campaign trail (she’s already nabbed Golden RACHEL GOODWIN GOODWIN RACHEL Globe and Screen Actors Guild trophies); and the MAKEUP: big-budget, CGI-laden “King Kong” reboot that she’s Fussing over Brie Larson before the currently filming, would be enough to send any

MARA ROSZAK MARA ROSZAK Academy Awards Nominees ► HAIR: Luncheon. 26-year-old into momentary shock. Instead, Larson is

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 43 

extremely present, taking it all in as it comes, journal in projects — it’s too soon to tell. I’m constantly asked, ‘How “JUST BECAUSE hand and bright-eyed — even though she’s had precious do you feel?’ and I have no reference point for this. Your little sleep for the last month. brain doesn’t know where to file these things. I just try I WEAR FANCY “I got vitamins from a nutritionist that helped me to be present. You have to be easily adaptable and ready DRESSES ON sleep on the plane,” she says, settling into a chair with a to be in whatever is happening.” breakfast smoothie and submitting to the efforts of her After the awards marathon is over, she plans to take a WEEKENDS makeup artist, Rachel Goodwin, and hairstylist, Mara long vacation. “Once I emerge from that, I will have some Roszak. “I feel good, and this tastes like chocolate milk. great perspective on what it means to me. No matter what DOESN’T MEAN It’s amazing.” happens [on Oscar Sunday], win, lose, best dressed, the She recounts the previous weekend spent shuttling next day I’ll be climbing a mountain for 10 hours with a IN MY HEART back and forth between continents. “I had worked a giant monkey and no one’s the wiser.” crazy week on set, then got on a plane to fly overnight There are greater things awaiting Larson post-Oscars. OF HEARTS I’M to the SAG Awards. I knew I was landing at 6 a.m., had to She’s already squeezed in some power appointments. NOT A JEANS figure out which dress to wear, go to the ceremony until “I had a really wonderful meeting with Aaron Sorkin late and get back on a plane. So I felt all this pressure to the morning after SAG Awards. He said, ‘I’m so excited AND T-SHIRT sleep on the way there, knowing I wouldn’t get to for to know the best work of your career you haven’t even the next 24 hours, but instead I was counting sheep. I done yet.’ It blew my mind. It keeps going? That’s what PERSON.” thought, this could potentially be a disaster or one of the I keep tripping out over.” most fun and hilarious nights of my life. I should not ruin The fashion frenzy is also new for Larson, who says at it because I didn’t get a restful flight. The entire night of the beginning of the press tour for “Room” last August, the SAG Awards was like living in a weird hallucination.” she was steadfastly against going glam. “I felt really This short trip was no less packed. After sitting for her stubborn, like ‘I want my jeans and T-shirts forever and WWD portrait, putting on her luncheon outfit and doing I refuse to wear fancy clothes or heels.’” That changed a Q&A with a room full of reporters before sharing a meal once she realized her identity could evolve alongside with her fellow nominees, she did more press rounds by her style. “As I have had to meet different challenges, I the pool, then went to tape “Jimmy Kimmel Live” and realize I am coming into myself and whatever I’m wear- was back on a plane before the show aired that night. ing is another chance for me to explore a new version of myself.” Says her stylist, Cristina Ehrlich, with whom Larson “Room” London premiere has worked since the Met Ball last May, “Brie is such a Valentino trained character actress and an avid reader; she’s a real “Room” Toronto premiere “Room” L.A. premiere Cushnie et Ochs Rodarte thinker. She’s very porous and very open, but you have

to present your case to her.” Vanity Fair Toronto party Governor’s Awards Larson notes, “I watch clothes on other people, and it’s Wes Gordon Calvin Klein Collection like having a conversation before opening your mouth. HFPA & In Style Toronto Palm Springs International For me, clothes come from the mind. They represent Jonathan Cohen Film Festival Gala A week later, Brie’sAwards Season Looks Jason Wu what’s happening inside, and as long as they feel honestly like what I’m thinking about and going toward, I’m happy to bounce around and experience different things.” Larson’s look has varied throughout the season from Larson calls from Australia’s Gold Coast. It’s Sunday While she’s shown an affinity for a only handful of minimalist to avant garde and prim to bombshell. designers by wearing them more than once, Larson has morning there, and she has the day off. “This is the first played the field in everything from Valentino, Versace and Giambattista Valli to Rodarte, Jason Wu, Céline and Gucci time in a while where I’ve had an hour to stare at the (which she’s rumored to be wearing Sunday). She points Review Gala by Erik Pendzich/REX Shutterstock Erik Pendzich/REX Gala by Review out two collaborative efforts that she called “a chance to (L.A.) Shutterstock; MediaPunch/REX by “Room” James Shaw/REX Shutterstock; by (London) “Room” tock; gorgeous view of the ocean from my apartment,” she says. express myself and create a new work, not just a body selling clothes.” “I’m trying to remember the timeline of my life, but it’s “The first time I went to the Met Ball [in 2014] with Miu Miu, I had no idea what it was all about, so I was like, ‘I hard to track. I hardly ever look at a date because flying want to wear a suit of armor,’ and I sent over all these reference photos. They were super into it and were like, to L.A. every weekend, you lose and gain so many days.” ‘We will totally make you one,’ and I was so moved. I had the best time because I was wearing what I wanted While she says “it’s kind of cool to live outside dates to wear,” she says. and times,” she does recall the Oscar lunch clearly. “Not The second instance was her Golden Globes gown until the luncheon, when I was physically there, did it by Calvin Klein Collection. “That dress was similar in really hit me that I’m nominated. I was home-schooled so talking about where I was at. When we talked about I didn’t have a proper graduation, and when they put us the combination of Hollywood and Beyoncé, I was like, up on the risers for the ‘Class of 2016’ photo, that’s when ‘Done.’ For my Oscar dress, it’s similar. I really want it I cried. There are a lot of people who work their whole to be special and encompass colors and visions that are lives and don’t get this. Yeah, I’ve been working almost meaningful to me.” 20 years, but I see how rare this is, and I’m grateful.” At the end of the day, she doesn’t overthink it. “Really, Larson says the contrast between her weekdays on it’s like, there’s so many beautiful things to wear, so it set and her weekends in Hollywood has helped her stay ultimately comes down to what I’m feeling and what’s grounded. “I bounce between polar opposites. On my appropriate for what I’m doing. weekends, I’m wearing designer clothes, getting my nails “The cool thing about designers is they have very painted and living a polished lifestyle, then I come back specific points of view, and because my inspiration is here and I’m climbing mountains covered in dirt. Until always changing, it’s easy to go, ‘This feels right.’ But just this movie comes out [in March 2017], no one gets that. because I wear fancy dresses on weekends doesn’t mean National Board of Academy Awards It’s like having two best friends you never invite to the in my heart of hearts I’m not a jeans and T-shirt person.” Review Awards Nominees Luncheon same dinner. But that balance has been helpful because It’s a good thing, because her next “Kong” shoot Giambattista Valli Emilia Wickstead Couture I’ve had zero time to process any of this. Because I’m location is in the jungle of a Third World country. “I’m not in L.A., I can’t gauge how life has changed. I’m still packing tank tops I stole from my best friend five years W Magazine SAG Awards Best Performances party Atelier Versace myself.” ago and all my clothes are still ratty and cheap. Part of Céline Surely being in the Oscar spotlight has opened new me wants to keep it that way. My whole world doesn’t AFI Awards Golden Globe Awards BAFTA Los Angeles Tea Gucci Calvin Klein Collection doors for her? “That you have access to higher-profile need to change just yet.” ■ Gabriela Hearst HFPA Toronto, AFI Awards photographs by Michael Buckner/Variety/REX Shutterstock; “Room” (Toronto) Andrew H Walker/REX Shutters H Walker/REX Andrew (Toronto) “Room” Shutterstock; Michael Buckner/Variety/REX by photographs AFI Awards Toronto, HFPA Shutterstock; Latour/Variety/REX Rob Golden Globes party by Shutterstock David X Prutting/BFA.com/REX W Magazine by Shutterstock Matt Baron/REX by Awards SAG Shutterstock; Latour/REX Rob by Nominees Luncheon Governor’s Awards, Palm Springs and BAFTA Tea party by Jim Smeal/REX Shutterstock Jim Smeal/REX Shutterstock; National Board of National Board Jim Smeal/REX Shutterstock; Jim Smeal/REX Shutterstock party by Tea Springs and BAFTA Palm Awards, Governor’s

44 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM WWD.COM FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 45 THEY SHOULD WEAR IT

IN HOLLYWOOD, THE SPECULATION CENTERS ON WHICH FILMS AND ACTORS WILL WIN. THE REST OF THE WORLD IS MORE CONSUMED WITH WHAT THOSE ACTORS WILL WEAR, AS THE OSCARS HAVE BECOME THE BIGGEST, FLASHIEST, MOST HYPED FASHION SHOW ON EARTH. HERE THROUGH PAGE 49, WWD MAKES OUR Jennifer Lawrence Cate Blanchett Brie Larson Saoirse Ronan Charlotte Rampling PICKS FOR THE WOMEN — MOST FROM THE JUST- FILM: “Joy” FILM: “Carol” FILM: “Room” FILM: “Brooklyn” FILM: “45 Years” DESIGNER: Ralph Lauren DESIGNER: Vera Wang DESIGNER: Derek Lam DESIGNER: Gucci DESIGNER: Valentino ENDED NEW YORK FALL Lawrence’s penchant for retro glamour often projects Fashion-wise, Blanchett is a living goddess. Her But for the dazzling gold Calvin Klein Collection column Young and red hot, Ronan radiates quirky beauty. Her Rampling’s recent red-carpet choices present an COLLECTIONS — AND, ON older than her 25 years, and less interesting than she is statuesque grace and experimental inclinations make her with cutout waist she wore to the Golden Globes, Larson’s emergent sartorial flair is already apparent in red-carpet interesting dichotomy — on one side, tailored chic, PAGES 50 AND 51, as an actress. Happily, Lawrence has recently digressed as compelling on the red carpet as she is on-screen. She red-carpet choices veer toward conservative structure choices that tend toward the offbeat and at times, girlish sometimes harshly so, and on the other, piled-on from that stylistic norm with looks better suited to her has worn everything from simple and classic to with a faintly retro orientation. The approach can awkwardness, whether intentional or feigned. She gets eccentricity. Tailored wins. (The long ago suspender-ed FOR THE MEN. youthful beauty. For the Madrid premiere of “The Hunger silhouettes that are genuinely challenging, yet her dress minimize her natural sophistication. Derek Lam’s graceful that stylistic daring can run sweetly eccentric. If that Lucia of “The Night Porter” shouldn’t now head toward Games: Mockingjay Part 2,” she chose a black lace Ralph choice never seems out of character. For the Oscars, gown in quadrants of silk jersey and pebbled crepe would doesn’t call out for one of Gucci’s decorative beauties “Grey Gardens.”) To heighten the glamour and soften the By BRIDGET FOLEY and MAYTE ALLENDE Lauren that updated the siren genre with a casual we’d love to see Blanchett take an artful, less-is-more beautifully highlight Larson’s classic blonde beauty in a (this one, from pre-fall), what does? effect, Rampling should opt for Valentino’s perfect Illustrations by DANILO AGUTOLI attitude, while in Paris for the film, her Dior Couture approach in Vera Wang’s beauty gown, its sliplike modern, elegant way. elongated shirtdress, its interest intensified with bold long-sleeved white gown looked both simple and simplicity elevated with bold Deco-inspired embroidery. decorative medallions. storybook. For the Oscars, Lawrence should again look toward Lauren, specifically, his velvet dress that deflates ACTRESS IN A LEADING ROLE IN A LEADING ACTRESS the ballgown into a languid jewel.

46 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM WWD.COM FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 47 Jennifer Jason Leigh Rooney Mara Alicia Vikander Rachel McAdams Kate Winslet

FILM: “The Hateful Eight” FILM: “Carol” FILM: “The Danish Girl” FILM: “Spotlight” FILM: “Steve Jobs” DESIGNER: Giorgio Armani Privé DESIGNER: Rodarte DESIGNER: Altuzarra DESIGNER: Chanel Couture DESIGNER: Carolina Herrera Jason Leigh takes a low-key approach to the red carpet. Hollywood’s reigning fashion “It” girl, Mara is one of the Rooney Mara watch out — Vikander is proving herself a Her red-carpet choices have taken McAdams all over the Winslet heeds the call of Old Hollywood. She does it So much so that she does herself a disservice, erring on few actresses out there with a highly developed, serious fashion girl, too. In recent high-profile red-carpet place; she’s experimented with diverse looks from well, as hers is a voluptuous glamour given to period the side of too simple, even if sometimes, simple comes in unmistakable sense of style. With her pale skin, dark hair outings, Vikander has shown an affinity for that ballgowns to one-sleeved siren shapes to a strategically references and strong color. Yet her red-carpet looks sparkly variations. On the upside, she’s not given to fussy and red-to-black lips, she projects an aura of Snow White combination that often imparts a boho sensibility embroidered tulle mermaid. While interesting, her have become formulaic, and sometimes, aging. For the retro undos. Light is great-looking, and for the Oscars, gone glam-Goth, a look she works to great advantage and — pattern and flou. It suits her, playing to the feminine diversity initiative hasn’t garnered for her a red-carpet Oscars, Winslet should take a leap forward with her should amp up her fashion just a bit. Giorgio Armani with utter ease. While Mara is of that rare breed — clothes daring she projects. Conversely, when, at the Golden personality in the manner of, say Cate Blanchett. For the glamorous sensibility in Carolina Herrera’s chiffon gown, Privé’s embroidered dress is in a beautiful, easy-to-wear filly who can make almost any dress her own — Rodarte’s Globes, Vikander kept the graphics but lost the fluidity in Oscars, McAdams should go for this geometrically proportioned for graceful movement. We’d love her to shade. The silhouette brings something new to the blood-red lace swirls over a corseted base would be Louis Vuitton’s curvaceous, high-sparkle gown, she embroidered halter dress from Chanel Couture. Cut well wear it as Herrera showed it — with simple hair and strapless genre, and the length — at the ankle — allows for Oscar-perfect. She could even pull off full-on runway, with looked Vegas-ready. For the Oscars, Vikander should above the ankles, its linear blouson silhouette would cast sans bling. some serious fashion (and not to mention a great shoe) flowers in her hair. reembrace boho chic in Altuzarra’s exquisitely her wholesome prettiness in a sophisticated light, one without looking forced. embroidered bandanna dress. with a touch of artful mystery. ACTRESS IN A SUPPORTING ROLE IN A SUPPORTING ACTRESS

48 FEBRUARY 2016,2016, No.No. 4 WWD.COMWWD.COM WWD.COM FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 49 Michael Fassbender Leonardo DiCaprio Mark Rylance Bryan Cranston Eddie Redmayne he days of wearing top hat and tails on FILM: “Steve Jobs” FILM: “The Revenant” FILM: “Bridge of Spies” FILM: “Trumbo” FILM: “The Danish Girl” T the red carpet are DESIGNER: Tom Ford DESIGNER: Ralph Lauren DESIGNER: Dunhill DESIGNER: Burberry DESIGNER: Gucci long gone. But if this Fassbender’s red-carpet The poster boy for a Although admittedly a Who remembers the Fashion models step aside. awards season is any choices are always traditional black tux took generalization, highly sad suburban style of Redmayne’s red-carpet indication, the men impeccable, as a different turn at the respected stage his “Breaking Bad” appearances have are starting to fight evidenced by the BAFTAs in a midnight actors tend not to be character? Cranston become an example of for their right to become style setters — perfectly — and we don’t blue crosshatch- the greatest cleans up well and what an actor can NBAT players, beware. use that word lightly — patterned Giorgio Armani dressers. But the based on his latest bring from the English actor is taking European runways, Velvet blazers, colored jacquard tailored Tom Ford suit suit. This might suggest successful choices, an that transformed him that Leo is ready for this statement to new emerald velvet blazer and he’s not afraid smoking jackets and double-breasted into an evening other changes — even if heights with his from Burberry with to be adventurous. In peak-lapel jackets are among the chicest superhero at the Golden he’s a longtime pal of strange attachment contrasting black silk this vein, a fantasy modern choices that this season’s nomi- Globes. A continued Armani’s. A Ralph Lauren to a worn-out lapels and a strong Gucci look with a flashy nees have worn so far. collaboration between Purple Label white shawl-lapel tuxedo shoulder would work geometric jacquard Finding the balance between follow- the two, perhaps a double-breasted and vest with silk best. He’s at the point pattern — it is the Oscars, ing the codes of black-tie dressing and midnight blue tuxedo with shawl-lapel blazer over piping and rumpled where he has turned after all — would hit the pushing one’s personal style forward contrasting shawl lapel sleek black pants and a fedora. A peak-lapel his image around and mark. And maybe and a hint of a pocket hand-tied bow tie would one-button evening can now be seen as a substitute the traditional can be dangerous — it’s hard to forget square, would position channel the old glamour suit from Dunhill, leading man in a bow tie for a the powder-blue disaster that Jared Leto him to pick up the mantle if that worked so well for paired with a classic romantic comedy. conversational silk wore last year — but taking a calculated Daniel Craig decides to him in films like “The shirt and silk bow tie, is flowered bolo one. risk is a must. retire as James Bond. Great Gatsby.” as traditional and elegant Here’s a closer look at this year’s as one can get. If he’s Oscar nominees plus show host Chris desperate for a theatrical Rock, with suggestions on how to ensure fedora, the British house can surely provide him a style victory regardless of who takes with a brand new one. home the gold statue.

By ALEX BADIA

Chris Rock Christian Bale Tom Hardy Matt Damon Mark Ruffalo Sylvester Stallone

The Host FILM: “The Big Short” FILM: “The Revenant” FILM: “The Martian” FILM: “Spotlight” FILM: “Creed” DESIGNER: DESIGNER: DESIGNER: Calvin Klein Ralph Lauren DESIGNER: Valentino DESIGNER: Giorgio DESIGNER: Saint Laurent Alexander McQueen The sleek hair, His good looks, tough With his perennial Armani Everyone loves a The host always has more clean-shaven, fit body and demeanor and excellent boy-next-door good looks, Ruffalo has been trying to comeback. Stallone’s fashion freedom than sharp suits of his sartorial choices are Damon’s at his best when clean up his fashion act, personal style, however, is the nominees. That “American Psycho” drawing similarities to the he goes traditional and replacing his disheveled a different matter. He still was proven by the days are gone. This likes of Paul Newman and classic. A modern style with a has the frame of a former array of fab tuxedos awards season has Steve McQueen. Although Valentino suit commitment to body builder, not the worn by Neil Patrick been a sea of it’s an overstatement to featuring an classic black and easiest shape for Harris ill-fitting three-piece put him in the same league elongated skinny simple evening suits eveningwear. A few weeks last year — and the suits, thick beards as those two style gods, silhouette with a this season. But the ago, sitting in the front row time he wore and bad haircuts. A Hardy’s unconventional wide peak lapel, lack of texture and at the Saint Laurent show nothing but a pair of minimal yet sharp choices have channeled simple white shirt dark colors don’t work in Los Angeles, he told tighty-whities. Not black tonal Calvin McQueen bad-boy and skinny tie well with his rugged WWD that Hedi Slimane that Rock should Klein with matching elegance. As such, would play to his features. A sharkskin was making a custom sport a Speedo on shirt and small bow another three-piece approachable yet color would do the tuxedo for him for the stage — instead, tie would break that ensemble from Ralph handsome appeal, trick — a gray Giorgio Oscars. The opening look how about a habit. And please Lauren Purple Label would both on Earth and Armani tux with some of the fall Saint Laurent head-turning shave, get a haircut continue to push his on Mars. texture and depth, and a show would exude a fashion statement: and maybe hit the sensibility. The contrasting black peak chic-sleek sensibility with a tuxedo with gym a few times single-breasted lapel and velvet bow tie a retro late Seventies twist gold-sequined before the big night one-button-wide shawl would give him just the — very Rocky Balboa. paisley-embroidered — no need to play a lapel paired with a smaller right amount of suave. embellishments on a serial killer to have bow tie is reminiscent of fitted blazer over a pair killer looks. one of Newman’s famous of baggy black pants from pictures, so it feels like a Alexander McQueen’s fall safe bet. runway? And if Rock is afraid of losing his street cred, pair the look with

white sneakers. ROLE IN A SUPPORTING ACTOR ROLE IN A LEADING ACTOR

50 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM WWD.COM FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 51 SOMETIMES, SHOES JUST NEED TO DISAPPEAR, SAYS JIMMY CHOO CREATIVE CHIEF SANDRA CHOI. By SAMANTHA CONTI

f all the wizardry Sandra down to the point where it disappears,” says Choi. O Choi has worked on the red “If you want to play it up, you can choose a different color O carpet, one of her latest to contrast your outfit — that was what I was thinking. If you acts, a shoe she created for wear it with a red gown, and then have it in nude satin or awards season last year, is suede, it disappears.” perhaps the best — and most The design was a winner, with the likes of Dakota Johnson, emblematic — of her career Kate Mara, Charlize Theron, Diane Kruger, Gwyneth Paltrow, so far. Selena Gomez, Bar Refaeli and others wearing them to the In the more than two Golden Globes, various film premieres and after parties. decades she’s been at Jimmy Choi is the niece of Choo, who is 67. She dropped out of Choo, Choi, whose title is fashion school to join his bespoke business in London’s East creative director, has shod actresses including Cate Blanchett, End, and has helped to build a red-carpet business on service, Julianne Moore, Jennifer Aniston, Angelina Jolie, Halle Berry comfort and classic styles. and Kate Winslet for their big awards nights. “The designs need to be graceful, elegant, timeless. The She’s put them in pumps, peep-toes, platforms, strappy pictures stay with us for decades,” Choi notes, adding sandals, flat sandals — as worn by Uma Thurman at Cannes that she’s sensitive to celebrities’ needs on the red carpet: in 2011 — and even done made-to-order vegan-friendly shoes “They’re being themselves, they’re not playing a character in satin, PVC and plastic for Natalie Portman. or reading off a script. The red carpet is the one time they She’s done red-carpet footwear for men — Leonardo get to show off their own style.” DiCaprio and Mark Wahlberg among them — and for children. To mark 20 years in business, Jimmy Choo created a lim- Abigail Breslin was 10 years old when she was nominated ited-edition capsule collection of 20 shoes and accessories Last year for best supporting actress at the 2007 Academy Awards for inspired by the red carpet. It includes original designs as well delivered The Minny, a thin sole “Little Miss Sunshine.” as the most popular VIP styles including Lance, which has on a 4.5-inch heel “She wanted to be pretty and dress like the other grown-up logged more distance on the red carpet than any other shoe, worn by the likes girls on the red carpet so we made her a strappy sandal with and Minny. Prices start at 495 pounds, or $710, and go into the of Dakota a kitten heel,” says Choi over a plate of grilled chicken and thousands of pounds for special orders that are adorned with Johnson, Kate spinach at The Delaunay in London. Swarovski crystals. The shows can be purchased individually, Mara, Charlize Yet it was only last year that Choi came up with a disap- or by special order as a set packaged in a vanity shoe trunk. Theron, Diane Kruger, Gwyneth pearing act, a sandal known as The Minny, so-called for its Choi is also keenly aware of the intersection of heels and Paltrow, Selena minimal architecture — a thin sole and a few strips of leather time, so she strives to make shoes that don’t reflect a partic- Gomez and Bar attached to a 115 mm (4 1/2-inch) heel. ular year. This is especially true for the red carpet, which Refaeli. “I wanted delicateness, and a shoe that could be played the brand has been ruling since 1999, when Jimmy Choo ►

52 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM WWD.COM FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 53 opened its first suite at L’Ermitage in Beverly Hills. As hemlines and silhouettes shifted, so did Choo’s heel heights, which reached a crescendo in 2011, with a 145 mm (5.7 inches) slingback, peep-toe platform called Vita, one of the brand’s most popular 1 red-carpet styles over the years. Of late, heights have started to drop down to 115 mm, as CATE BLANCHETT, 1999 in the strappy Lance — a longtime Aniston favorite — and Nominated as Best Actress in the Minny. a Leading Role for the title role 1 Some 618 pairs of Jimmy Choo shoes have appeared on the in “Elizabeth,” Blanchett wore bespoke black satin court red carpet during major awards ceremonies over the past 20 shoes, and was the first actress years, and that’s not counting the times that Michelle Obama, to wear custom Jimmy Choo the Duchess of Cambridge and various other British royals shoes on the Academy Awards have walked in them. red carpet. Choi, now a mother of two in her 40s, recalls the very early days of her career when Princess Diana would pull 2 up outside the brand’s Motcomb Street store in London to place her order. HALLE BERRY, 2002 Winner of the Oscar for Best “She came to Jimmy Choo via her couture designers and Actress in a Leading Role for asked Jimmy to make shoes to match,” recalls Choi. “She was “Monster’s Ball,” Berry wore always on the lookout for traffic wardens…little wonder when custom-made “Red” style, 100- she would drive straight up to the door of our first shop…and mm sandals in deep red satin. park on the double-yellow lines outside.” 2 It didn’t take long for the brand — formerly owned and run 3 by Tamara Mellon and her partners — to build on the star power that Diana imparted, and start working the Hollywood CHARLIZE THERON, 2006 machine. It was a strategy that would lead to repeated sales Theron wore the “Paris” style, 100-mm heel in black and gold of the company at ever-higher valuations, and eventually a satin to the Academy Awards public listing in 2014 on the London Stock Exchange. when she was nominated for 1 2 Today, Choo has a market capitalization of 460 million Best Actress in a Leading Role pounds, or $666 million, and remains majority owned by for “North Country.” the luxury group JAB. 3 Indeed, Choo was among the first luxury brands to realize 4 the red carpet was the most potent catwalk in the world. Choi recalls the quick decision to take a suite dedicated to ANGELINA JOLIE, 2009 red-carpet dressing at L’Ermitage shortly after the brand’s Nominated for a Golden Globe as Best Performance by an Actress Los Angeles boutique opened in 1999. in a Motion Picture — Drama for “The stylists were calling in the shoes, and even buying her role in "Changeling," Jolie them and it caused chaos in a retail environment,” Choi wore the "Emma,” a 110-mm recalls. “We thought, ‘We need to separate the whole thing. heel in nude satin.

DNA of a Red-Carpet Shoe

The strappy Lance has a 115-mm heel height and has been a longtime favorite of Jennifer Aniston’s. Placement of details like 3 4 buckles, so they don’t catch in a long gown. We already had the relationship with the stylists, and we wanted to be a part of it.” At the time, Mellon — a marketeer to her core — made ACCESSORIES FEST sure she accommodated the stars’ and stylists’ every need, Time- hauling piles of white satin styles from London and dyeing IT’S THE LITTLE THINGS THAT MATTER. By KHANH T.L. TRAN lessness. or embellishing them to order. Color and No one wants The stylist Elizabeth Saltzman recalls those early days. details that a dated “Jimmy Choo made the shoes accessible, and dyed them to T ALL STARTED with the dress. midcentury cuffs, which, enhanced by ruffles and multiple match the shoe. Matt Damon stood tall match the dresses. At the time it was unique, and it was a For Lady Gaga’s debut at the Golden tiers of diamonds, glimmered when she held up her golden 1. dress. in $945 lace-up Greggo luxury.” I Globe Awards last month, her heart trophy later that night. A total of 210 carats dazzled from her oxfords by Christian Comfort — Even today, says Saltzman, Jimmy Choo “understands was set on a black velvet gown by earlobes and wrists, adding up to a price of almost $4 million. Louboutin to accept his each pair has to comfort, the shoes have built-in platforms, you can walk in Atelier Versace that fell off the shoul- “Collaborating with her was really fun,” says Lane, who trophy at the Golden Globes. be worn for hours, so building the plat- them, and every style has three heel heights. They are good ders and cinched the waist in an ode also provided opals, sapphires and other sparklers to Kate Versatility. 2. Rachel McAdams wore forms and lasts More times than not, for the customer.” to Marilyn Monroe. To accentuate the Winslet, Amy Adams, Gina Rodriguez, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Lily Choi is always thinking about the details: “All those little sculptural style with diamonds, she Tomlin, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Amber Heard and Johnny $795 beige chiffon Follie properly is key. the shoes need to make Draperia pumps by a glamorous statement, things need to be thought through. The buckles. Where you turned to Neil Lane. While the Los Angeles-based jeweler had Depp that night. “It happened to be a very big one for me.” Christian Louboutin at the but sometimes they need put a buckle? If you’re wearing a long gown, you might not collaborated with Charlize Theron and Reese Witherspoon for While much is made about the gowns that glide down the Santa Barbara International to disappear — and not want a buckle because it might catch the dress. You don’t their triumphant turns at the Academy Awards in previous red carpet, the frenzy behind selecting the jewels, shoes and Film Festival. distract from the want accidents.” years, he had never worked with the pop star-turned-“Amer- handbags is just as chaotic. The stakes probably run even dress. Choi’s approach to the red carpet and to the seasonal col- ican Horror Story” actress before. higher, considering that consumers have a better chance of 3. David Oyelowo slipped lections will never change. “If you can just make something Lane sent images back and forth to Gaga’s stylist, Brandon buying at least some of the accessories than they would a on $895 patent leather Smoker flats by Christian beautiful that touches your eyes and your mind, that’s job Maxwell, piled 34 square-cut diamonds on a pair of matching couture dress. Louboutin at the Golden done. I’m an artist — but one who makes things that you can bracelets and dropped tear-shaped stones under 10-carat “Our culture is set up in a way today that people look to Globes.

actually wear.” ■ Granitz/WireImage Steve Berry and Jolie by KMazur/WireImage; by photographs and Theron Blanchett by McAdams Broadimage/REX/Shutterstock; by Damon photograph REX/Shutterstock by Oyelowo Chelsea Lauren/Variety/REX/Shutterstock; cushion-cut earrings. What clinched the deal was a set of the red carpet for cues in fashion,” says Greg Kwiat, who is a

54 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM Illustration by CHUCK ANDERSON WWD.COM FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 55 10

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partner at his family’s namesake jewelry house. 4. Saoirse Ronan chose friends with Van Daele and Webster, requested bold cocktail styling team, Nina and Clare Hallworth, loved the powder 8. For the Golden Globes, Berry, who wore the diamond earrings to the “Die Another Despite protestations that Millennials don’t watch the white gold and diamond rings. That’s how, to add a flash of danger to her black-and- pink sandals decorated with handcrafted leather rosettes so Neil Lane outfitted Lady Day” movie premiere in 2002. “It became a classic, and our Oscars telecast, 18- to 34-year-olds pay attention to the red earrings shaped like wings white dress by Roland Mouret at the Critics’ Choice Awards, much that they shelled out more than $1,500 at Maxfield’s for Gaga with square-cut best-selling collection of all time,” Greg Kwiat says. Last by Forevermark for the diamond bracelets and carpet. “For many of them, it might be their first introduction Leigh ended up wrapping two fingers in Webster’s rose gold them. As men move the meter for fashion experimentation, month, at the People’s Choice Awards, Claire Danes was the Screen Actors Guild Awards. midcentury cuffs with to brands in that context,” he says. Thus, Kwiat can’t miss the ring that resembled a black-and-white diamond snake squeez- accessories brands are ready to cater to them with tuxedo ruffles. She also wore first to wear a $14,900 bangle hand-plotted with 523 dia- opportunity to get in front of Millennials, especially because 5. Rooney Mara stacked ing a white chalcedony lotus flower in its tail. shirt studs, cuff links, lapel pins and watches. At the Golden a pair of 60-carat diamond monds from Kwiat’s Tempo collection. Not available at stores “they represent the people coming into the market to buy rings from Fred Leighton The appearances on their Oscars campaigns allows actresses Globes, Christian Louboutin shod the feet of David Oyelowo in earrings. until late June, the bangle already has spurred three inquiries engagement rings, an important part of what we do at Kwiat.” on her fingers at the Golden to change their looks. Saoirse Ronan chose Forevermark’s white smoking slippers, and Matt Damon stood tall in the designer’s from shoppers and some calls from Kwiat’s retailers wanting The red carpet can be a bargain in terms of marketing. Globes. gold and diamond earrings shaped like wings for the Screen slender oxfords when he accepted the award for his leading 9. Among other jewelry to know when they’d be able to stock the piece. “Even when from Neil Lane, Gina Boutique firms such as Fred Leighton, Kwiat, Neil Lane and Actors Guild Awards, Stephen Webster’s Art Deco-style pink role in “The Martian.” you’re talking to the retail partners,” Kwiat says, “they like 6. Jennifer Lopez carried a Rodriguez wore an Stephen Webster are adamant about not paying people to herringbone minaudière opal earrings for the Critics’ Choice Awards and David Webb’s Moreover, an Oscar winner can serve as a muse. Ever emerald and diamond ring what is happening in that [red carpet] context as well.” don their jewelry. Christian Louboutin also toes the line of clutch encrusted with pagoda earrings stacked with jade, turquoise, diamonds and since Rebecca Selva, chief creative officer of Fred Leighton, and matching fringe Tiffany & Co. previews its famous Tiffany Blue Book to not paying celebrities to wear his shoes. crystal baguettes and white enamel for the Museum of Modern Art’s screening of received a phone call in 1998 from Miuccia Prada to send chandelier earrings at Tinseltown denizens for the Academy Awards red carpet Other companies don’t mind whipping out the checkbook. rock crystal semiprecious “Brooklyn,” for which she earned a best actress nomination. opal jewelry that could complement a light blue Empire-waist the Golden Globes. well before its regular clients see it in April. Besides adorning In 2006, Chopard paid Theron $50,000 for wearing at least stones from Judith Leiber Unlike gowns and baubles, shoes can go on heavy rota- dress for Nicole Kidman, Leighton has been accessorizing Cate Blanchett and Brie Larson in diamonds and emeralds at to the Golden Globes. 10. Jennifer Jason Leigh two pieces to the British Academy of Film and Television Arts tion, especially if they prove comfortable enough to last the Catherine Zeta-Jones, Meryl Streep, Patricia Arquette, Com- wrapped her fingers in a various events, the jeweler also dispatched CT60 watches to Awards and $200,000 for wearing other gems to the Oscars. 7. Claire Danes helped eight-week slog between the Palm Springs International Film mon and other thespians on their winning nights. In 2014, double ring resembling Liev Schreiber and Oscar Isaac for the Golden Globes. Still, the press exposure is invaluable. Glossy magazines, launch Kwiat’s Tempo Festival and the Academy Awards. Rachel McAdams, who’s for Lupita Nyong’o’s appearance to accept the prize for her a snake squeezing a lotus When it comes to blanketing the red carpet with a high Web sites and TV shows dissect each look. Social media collection at the People’s nominated as best supporting actress in “Spotlight,” slipped supporting role in “12 Years a Slave,” Selva designed earrings flower by Stephen quantity of celebrities or cherry-picking marquee names to amplifies the message through the stylists’ own accounts and Choice Awards by donning on black suede platform sandals with an open toe by Brian featuring a row of pear-shaped diamonds that dangled like Webster for the Critics’ represent their brand, Catherine Lacaze, vice president of the celebrities’ personal feeds. a $14,900 bangle set with Atwood for the SAG Awards and turned to them again a week fringe. “We loved them so much that we created other pieces Choice Awards. marketing for North America at Tiffany, shares an opinion 523 diamonds. Relationships between jewelers, stylists and actresses are later for the Directors Guild of America Awards. in the collection that were inspired by that,” she recalls. “We 11. Brie Larson wore an held by many houses: “Definitely quality,” she says. “It is carefully cultivated for years, and concessions are often con- Especially with footwear, the red carpet can level the play- launched the collection a year later.” $800,000 platinum ring, incredibly exciting to see an image of an award-winning sidered. For instance, Jennifer Jason Leigh, who’s nominated ing field for young designers. Olga Djanguirov saw Eva Lon- Other jewelry houses can’t resist the temptation to use the anchored by a 6.43-carat actress wearing Tiffany jewelry circulate around the globe.” for her supporting role in “The Hateful Eight,” never pierced goria and Laura Prepon preen at the SAG Awards in stilettos red carpet as a launch pad. diamond, from Tiffany & Indeed, Selva adds, “There’s no question that the Oscars Co. to the Golden Globes. her ears. Her stylist, Maryam Malakpour, who happens to be from her two-year-old line called Olgana Paris. Kirsten Dunst’s by Lopez Smith/Featureflash/Shutterstock; Paul by Jones; Mara Katie by Ronan Jim Smeal/BEI/Shutterstock Danes by David Fisher/REX/Shutterstock; David Fisher/REX/Shutterstock; by Rodriguez Jim Smeal/BEI/Shutterstock; Gaga by Boye Tyler by Larson Chelsea Lauren/Variety/REX/Shutterstock; by Jason Leigh Kwiat introduced its Star collection with the help of Halle is the greatest fashion show.” ■

56 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM WWD.COM FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 57 Anatomy of an Endorsement “I DIDN’T FEEL THAT I WAS JUST they get involved with,” he says. BEING ASKED Keeping “The way media used to work was: The agencies would KATE spend time — weeks — crafting a big idea and make some TO BE THE FACE VScore film, and media companies would help them spend a ton of OF SOMETHING.… Variety Insight money to make sure people saw the message,” Mandel says. WINSLET shows how an “The audience is not beholden to them anymore.” IT WAS ME Oscar nomination A celebrity’s standing determines their payday for en- AS A PERSON can give an actor dorsements. The contract often reads like a menu of ser- & LANCÔME AND MY MESSAGE a brand boost. vices; the more the brand wants, the more it pays. Accord- By KHANH T.L. TRAN ing to marketing insiders, an up-and-coming artist can ask TO WOMEN for $100,000 to $300,000 to appear in an ad campaign. THE Vscore Vscore ABOUT BEING 1/22/15 1/22/16 Most deals total between $500,000 and $1 million but can REAL IN WHO climb to $3 million. On social media, a member of Young IT’S NOT AS SIMPLE AS signing a famous name to YOU ARE AND Best Actress Hollywood with two million followers, for example, can re- hawk product. Lots of outside recognition, in this case Jennifer ceive up to $15,000 for a post and someone with 30 million REX Shutterstock by Lauren X Shutterstock; nominations and wins for Oscars, Golden Globes and COMFORTABLE IN Lawrence MONEY 100 followers can command $300,000. Shutterstock; Collection/REX Moviestore by Sunshine” “Eternal tock; Joy BAFTAs, give a celebrity the street cred necessary to YOUR SKIN.” 96 96 Over the past year, several nominees experienced a spike be a viable spokesman. Here, a chronicle of Winslet’s Cate Kate Winslet on 92 Blanchett in their Vscore numbers, which, as compiled by Variety In- career and when the endorsements started kicking in. Carol sight, rates the actors’ familiarity and appeal based on fac- her nine-year 83 Lancôme relationship TRAIL Brie tors such as social media mentions, box office receipts, new 76 Larson Room projects and awards. When this year’s Oscars nominations NOMINATIONS, AWARDS were announced on Jan. 22, Jennifer Lawrence peaked at 66 67 Saoirse 100. Brie Larson climbed 21 points to 83, Saoirse Ronan AND THE FAME THEY 62 Ronan 58 Brooklyn gained 10 to 76, Rooney Mara added 12 to 82 and Alicia BRING ARE A FAST Charlotte Vikander surged by 30 to 80. Rampling 45 Years Among the male nominees, Mark Rylance tallied the big- TICKET TO THAT gest increase to 70 from 51, whereas Christian Bale lost a point to 91. Even Sylvester Stallone benefited from a 10-point Oct. 5, 1975 1994 1996 1997 LUCRATIVE CELEBRITY boost to 88 in his Vscore. Kate Winslet is born in Makes her cinematic debut Winslet is nominated for the first Stars as Leonardo DiCaprio’s Best Actor Notwithstanding the testosterone-fueled sequels in “The Reading, England. portraying a murderous time for an Academy Award love interest, Rose, in “Titanic,” ENDORSEMENT. Matt teen in Peter Jackson’s for her supporting role which went on to gross Damon Expendables” franchise, Stallone’s nomination for reprising The Martian “Heavenly Creatures.” in “Sense and Sensibility,” and $2.19 billion worldwide. By KHANH T.L. TRAN his role as Rocky Balboa in “Creed” marked his cultural re- she wins a BAFTA for her 93 93 Leonardo surgence. His last dalliance with fashion dates back to the DiCaprio supporting role in that film. 89 90 The Nineties, when he shielded his manhood with painted plates 87 89 Revenant HEN OSCAR nominees step onto 84 86 next to Claudia Schiffer in an ad for Versace’s home line. Bryan the red carpet this weekend, Cranston On Feb. 10, the 69-year-old actor found himself sitting in the W they’ll be auditioning for per- 75 Trumbo front row of Hedi Slimane’s much-hyped Saint Laurent show haps the role of a lifetime: brand Michael at the Hollywood Palladium. The ultimate seal of approval: Fassbender ambassador (formerly known as Steve Jobs Slimane is designing his tuxedo for the Oscars ceremony. “model”). “I actually think having an Oscar nomination is more im- Eddie Aside from the fact that the Redmayne portant now than when it was when the Oscars started,” The Danish acting nominees don’t include a Girl says Derrick Daye, L.A.-based managing partner at The single person of color, this year’s Blake Project, a strategic brand consultancy. “These nom- 2007 2005 2002 1998 ballot offers a mix of talent that hasn’t yet scored big in the inations and awards give you much more of a differentiator Nominated for an Oscar for her Nominated for an Oscar for her Nominated for an Oscar for her Nominated for an Oscar for fashion and beauty industry. Luxury watch brands have at- than you just being famous,” he points out. “It pulls you leading role in “Little Children.” leading role in “Eternal Sunshine supporting role in “Iris.” her leading role in “Titanic.” e” by Jim Smeal/BEI/REX Shutterstock; 2012 “Mildred Pierce” by Charles Sykes/Rex/REX Shutterstock; “Steve Jobs” by Jim Smeal/RE by Jobs” “Steve Shutterstock; Charles Sykes/Rex/REX by Pierce” “Mildred 2012 Jim Smeal/BEI/REX Shutterstock; by e” tached themselves to only two leading men: Tag Heuer to Best Supporting Actress away from the group.” Shutters Collection/REX Moviestore by “Iris” BEI/REX Shutterstock; by “Titanic” 1998 Shutterstock; Collection/REX Moviestore by of the Spotless Mind.” Kate Leonardo DiCaprio and Omega to Eddie Redmayne. A stat- Winslet The Millennial-aged nominees enjoy an enviable position. uette won in 2009 and seven nominations have bolstered Steve Jobs A year after snagging her first Oscar nomination in 2012 for

Kate Winslet’s ranking as brand ambassador for Lancôme Rachel the lead role in “The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo,” Mara and Longines. Past winners and current nominees Cate 90 McAdams appeared in ads for Calvin Klein’s Downtown fragrance. 83 Spotlight Blanchett and Jennifer Lawrence appear to be set in their 83 82 Vikander secured her spot as a fashion favorite when Louis 81 80 Rooney respective commitments to Giorgio Armani and Dior. Mara Vuitton inserted her in its ad campaign last fall. Some mar- Carol Still, the others have been largely overlooked. For first-tim- 70 keters envision a beauty deal in Larson’s future. ers Brie Larson and Alicia Vikander, as well as youthful re- Alicia “Brie Larson definitely has the most to gain in being nom- 61 Vikander peat nominees Saoirse Ronan and Rooney Mara, the doors The Danish inated,” says Andy Hohl, talent brand manager at Los Ange- to big contracts in fashion and beauty are wide open. 54 Girl les’ Artist & Brand Management. “I can see the same trajec- The hopefuls need to do more than smile, however. They 50 Jennifer tory that Jennifer Lawrence had.” His advice to Larson: “She June 2007 2009 May 2009 2010 have to cultivate an affinity with a brand. They also must Jason should align with something that feels organic and she really Leigh Lancôme appoints her • Wins an Oscar and a BAFTA for Becomes the face of • Relinquishes Trésor to Oscar remain busy, constantly working and engaging their fans. The Hateful likes, just to keep it authentic.” Eight ambassador, and she begins her leading role in “The Reader.” Lancôme’s skin-care winner Penélope Cruz. “A great face is fine — they’re a dime a dozen,” says Kevin Certainly, authenticity is a vital component in building in the campaign for the Trésor • Wins Golden Globes for her line Rénergie and makeup • Becomes the face of Fegans, chief executive officer of The Communications Bu- partnerships between stars and brands. “Millennials will fragrance in print and TV roles in “Revolutionary Road” line L’Absolu Rouge. Lancôme’s Visionnaire line reau in Los Angeles, who previously directed PR for fashion Best Supporting Actor smell ‘fake’ like a shark smells blood in the water,” says Rob- ads shot by Peter Lindbergh. and “The Reader.” and Advanced Génifique. brands including Forever 21 and Asos. “A great face with a Mark ert Strand, who consults on branding and brand licensing as • Longines names Winslet brand Ruffalo ambassador for its luxury watches. global audience and a super-engaged audience — that’s bet- Spotlight the founder of New York-based Strand IP. ter. If you’re bringing someone into your campaign, can 94 Affirmation from the Academy also etches another facet 92 91 Christian they grow your network and re-excite your audience? It Bale into an entertainer’s repertoire. 86 88 The Big takes more than a store to get people to shop.” 82 85 Short “I think it adds to the dynamic of the talent,” says Ian Advertising agencies always debate the efficacy of using 78 Sylvester Schatzberg, president at Wednesday Agency, a New York- celebrities in promotions. Stallone based creative agency that paired Gaga, Beyoncé and Katy 70 Creed “There is just the simple math that they deliver an audi- Perry with H&M, and Justin Bieber with Calvin Klein in glob- Tom ence of a certain type,” says Josh Mandel, vice president and Hardy al ad campaigns. “It helps brands see them through a slight- The managing director of strategy at R/GA in L.A., who helps Revenant ly different lens or a more complex lens. In that instance, mold the creative marketing for Apple’s Beats brand and 51 that can change the conversation.” Mark February 2016 January 2016 2012 2011 Nike’s basketball business. Yet, marketers are aware of the Rylance Where that conversation leads is up to the celebrity. At Bridge • Wins a BAFTA for her support- Wins a Golden Globe for Wins a Golden Globe for • Creates a makeup collection line between famous enough and too famous. “When actors of Spies any rate, Daye notes, “Holding a golden statue is going to ing role in “Steve Jobs.” her supporting role in her role in the HBO miniseries with Lancôme. “Little Children” by Moviestore Collection/REX Shutterstock; 2009 BAFTA by Matt Baron/BEI/REX Shutterstock; 2011 “Mildred Pierc “Mildred 2011 Shutterstock; Matt Baron/BEI/REX by 2009 BAFTA Shutterstock; Collection/REX Moviestore by “Little Children” reach a certain stature, they are more discerning of what translate to dollars for any actor in years to come.” ■ “Titanic” Shutterstock; McKay/REX Ken by 1996 BAFTA Shutterstock; Collection/REX Moviestore by film still Creatures” “Heavenly • Reveals she’s collaborating “Steve Jobs,” and receives “Mildred Pierce.” • Wins an Emmy for her leading role with Ralph Lauren an Oscar nomination — in the HBO miniseries “Mildred Pierce.”

Xxxxxxxx Xxxxx on her Oscar gown. her seventh — for that role. • St. John features Winslet in its advertising.

58 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM HE OSCARS RED CARPET can be a lot like T the high school cafeteria, with social media THE SOCIAL starring in the role of the know-it-all gossip — and notching up the schadenfreude along the way. Who can forget the avalanche of storytelling arc because social media is obviously part of that magic mix that’s available to us as marketers nowadays,” Twitter memes spawned after Lady Gaga walked the red Duffy says. “Our goal is to be a part of the conversation, 24-7.” carpet in Azzedine Alaïa and a pair of bulky, red gloves Even for brands that don’t anticipate their gowns or acces- SWIRL sories on the red carpet, it’s still important to participate. HOW SOCIAL MEDIA PLAYERS REACT that some on social media deigned to be designed by That’s the case for St. John, which is focused on growing its custom eveningwear business. Participating in the Oscars TO RED-CARPET LOOKS IS A MARKETING Captain Planet, while others Photoshopped the songstress conversation is an opportunity to build brand awareness in front of a pile of dirty dishes or other domestic settings? among new customers and keep the discussion going with AND RESEARCH TOOL FOR FASHION existing ones, according to senior vice president of marketing BRANDS ACROSS THE PRICE SPECTRUM. Then there was Jared Leto in a Givenchy suit that largely Tiffany Anastasakis. got the thumbs-up, but was hardly enough to buffer him This year is the first time the company will engage with By KARI HAMANAKA viewers around the Academy Awards, following an in-depth from the sniggers about his striking resemblance to a analysis in 2014 that examined where the brand could make improvements on social. certain biblical character. So it’s no surprise design ateliers “[It’s about] the idea of not only the actresses, but the cos- tume designers or the filmmakers or the writers, and we think and luxury houses have in the past been wary of engaging that’s important. It also supports one of our brand pillars — we in the kind of discussions that reside on various social believe that, as a brand, we dress women of accomplishment and we like to support them and salute them in many different media platforms. ways,” Anastasakis says. The real test of efficacy will be in the weeks following the That’s changing now. event, when the company studies increases in followers, “Within the luxury fashion industry, there’s been this engagement and ultimately how much traffic flowed to the reluctance to join social media because traditionally, this has company’s Web site. been a more exclusive crowd and social media is about ubiq- Ready-to-wear firm Donna Morgan also doesn’t antici- uity. Anyone can chime in and speak about any brand,” says pate its eveningwear to be on the red carpet, but that’s not James Lovejoy, content researcher at social media analytics stopping the company from joining the party in an effort to firm Brandwatch. “For an industry that’s traditionally held continue the momentum that began in the fall to broaden a tight grip, to not be there is to lose a little bit of control.” its business beyond bridal and into eveningwear. This year’s Those who have embraced social as a legitimate marketing Oscars strategy will focus on nominees and designers along- tool have notched some successes. side how those looks can be translated by Donna Morgan. Rakuten Marketing’s review of brands’ efforts on search “We create our own content that we know is going to be rel- and social called out Versace for having the most well- evant to our readership,” says Amy Madonia, vice president rounded presence during last year’s Oscars across Facebook, of e-commerce and marketing at Donna Morgan. “[Shoppers Twitter and Instagram as it shared posts of Zoe Saldana, are] very interested in new looks and executing trends based Scarlett Johansson and Jennifer Aniston, all wearing gowns on the inspiration they see.” from the atelier. Zuhair Murad nabbed about 3,000 followers It’s a similar opportunity for Galia Lahav Haute Couture, from its activity on Twitter and Instagram during last year’s the Israel-based bridal and eveningwear company that awards show. Marchesa’s success on Twitter bore out in a gain recently opened a 6,000-square-foot boutique on La Brea of about 2,000 followers during the 2015 Oscars. Avenue to make the brand more accessible to Hollywood and In the past year, Marchesa has focused on building its Ins- help grow its eveningwear business. It’s expected to make up tagram following and is strategic in how posts are handled, “TO about one-third of the overall $3 million in sales projected often running vignettes of three related images, explains chief MEASURE this year for the store. executive officer Edward Chapman. That could be a photo of The company, which counts more than 1.2 million Ins- a celebrity in a Marchesa gown, followed by a second post fea- SUCCESS tagram followers, is taking advantage of the lead-up to the turing details of the embroidery and another from the fitting. awards show, teasing fans to guess what celebrity might wear “This has been very popular with our followers and allows WITH OUR one of its dresses and other conversation starters to increase us to show the world of Marchesa in more detail than you can engagement. see on the red carpet,” Chapman says. SOCIAL “The ROI is tricky because each couture dress for the Marchesa counts about 938,000 followers on Instagram as Oscars has [an] operational cost of at least $50,000 and it aims to show what Chapman described as “the full spec- MEDIA we’re required to take the best opportunity to get the best trum for the brand,” as opposed to simply looking at sales CHANNELS, exposure, so that people will talk about the dress,” says numbers to gauge efficacy. founder Idan Lahav. “With social media, it’s more difficult to draw a direct WE LOOK That’s the whole point, says Danny Kourianos, senior correlation to sales,” he says. “To measure success with our vice president of product strategy at Rakuten Marketing, social media channels, we look more closely at engagement MORE because not everyone talking up a brand on social media with each post, to see what our followers are responding to.” may be buying. Stuart Weitzman’s global communications strategy has CLOSELY… “Not everybody can afford a Versace gown,” Kourianos matured into what chief marketing officer Susan Duffy says. “Still, [luxury houses] might be able to do tie-ins with describes as a layered approach, with media buys promoting TO SEE other brands to which consumers have an affinity.” celebrities and its hashtag #inourshoes. That includes an Those higher-end brands, as their social strategies mature, Oscars initiative with Vanity Fair involving digital banners WHAT OUR will have to get savvier about how to talk to what is likely to that began Feb. 17. FOLLOWERS be a different audience from their traditional customer base Shoppability of the Weitzman Instagram page could prove — hardly a simple task. a game changer for marketing around the Academy Awards, RESPOND “It’s not so easy to manage the social community today,” Duffy says. The company launched the feature in late summer, Lahav says. “You must be creative, interesting, talk about the with total revenue from social up 25 percent since. TO.” upcoming events at the right time and analyze the [last] year’s “For us, with the Oscars, it’s part of our 360-degree Edward Chapman, Marchesa numbers. Not easy at all — but worth it [in] the long run.” ■

60 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM Illustration by MATT CHASE WWD.COM FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 61 actresses whom she dresses for the red carpet are Gwyneth AS A FASHION CONSULTANT, ELIZABETH Paltrow, Uma Thurman, Gemma Arterton and one of this year’s Oscar darlings, Saoirse Ronan. Through her fashion SALTZMAN HELPS CELEBRITIES consulting business, Saltzman also styles shows for and ACHIEVE AWARDS-SHOW CONFIDENCE. advises young designers, which often means connecting them with friends like André Balazs, for whom she enlisted JUST DON’T CALL HER A STYLIST. Emilia Wickstead to create uniforms for the Chiltern Fire- house hotel staff. “Clothing and styling for me is a part of By MARCY MEDINA the whole equation of my business. It allows me to see what designers are interested in, what they will create, how much always shiver when I see ‘stylist’ they will let you push them, how much they get to push me I next to my name. I know I am into something I wasn’t thinking at all,” she says. I one, but I’m never going to be Though Saltzman is photogenic and quick with bon mots, one of those all-time, 100 per- you’ll never see her on a reality show or Snapchat. “I feel like cent brilliant women or men publicizing myself is weird. It’s not being modest, it’s being who have this down to a T,” human and having a family — and having a grown-up looking says Elizabeth Saltzman. “I find for attention. But that was before, when there were no selfies myself being a decent editor and no danger. There were a few cameras around, but no one with OK taste for certain people, was out to humiliate you,” she says over dinner at Chateau whom I treat as humans, not as Marmont, where she’s touched down for two days to style a runway subjects, even though charity campaign for Paltrow. the red carpet is probably the most important runway.” So if she’s not playing the typical Hollywood stylist role, Saltzman has spent the better part of her 34-year career in how does she cultivate clients? fashion cultivating images for print — first as a fashion editor “Usually it’s timing and if I think I can be helpful — if some- at Vogue, then as fashion director and contributing editor at one is looking to be taken care of in the sense that they know Vanity Fair. She was part of the Old School Manhattan social they can just show up and we will have a quick fitting, and scene (her mother, Ellin Saltzman, is a former longtime their looks will be set and there’s no chaos. I’m sort of like a Glamour editor and fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue, fairy godmother. I prefer to choose people where I feel like we among other specialty retailers, and her father, the late Renny can better their fashion grade, meaning it just makes life easier Saltzman, was an interior designer and modern architecture and better and they look good and the fashion world thinks “Clothing and patron) that believed those who worked “behind the scenes” they look OK. It’s a transition from sometimes they get it right, styling for me in fashion should stay that way — unless they were being sometimes they get it wrong, to trying to get it mostly right.” is a part of the photographed for the society pages. And what does she make of Ronan? “Our relationship is whole equation of my business.” Today, Saltzman has shifted gears toward Hollywood, brand new. Can you wait ’til we’re past the hot dating part?” — Elizabeth even though she calls London, where she lives with her hus- she laughs, adding, “It’s a long-term relationship that’s being Saltzman band, Tom Walker, and two teenage sons, home. Among the started and it’s not about money. [‘Brooklyn’] is a tiny ►

62 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM Photograph by PAUL STEWART WWD.COM FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 63 A Season of Dressing Saoirse Ronan

BAFTAs Oscar Nominees SAG Awards Critics’ Choice Golden Globes NY Film Critics Circle PSIFF Gala Feb. 14 Luncheon, Feb. 8 Jan. 30 Awards, Jan. 17 Jan. 10 Awards, Jan. 4 Jan. 2 Burberry Laura Basci Michael Kors Antonio Berardi Saint Laurent Victoria Beckham Duro Olowu Women’s budget film and everyone’s doing it because they love it.” This Magic Moment Tips for the Big Night She has bonded quickly with Ronan, who she met prior to the “I probably get asked most about styling from Saltzman dispenses her most useful advice for Toronto International Film Festival in September. “She was putting Gwyneth Paltrow nailing the red carpet, from prep to post and the Collections whimsical, willing to have fun in the sense of one day we’d in the white caped Tom all-important photo op. do a skinny black dress and one day we’d do a big bold print. Ford dress [from 2012]. I choose things that bring out her natural beauty because if That was the only time you can bring out someone’s natural beauty and not wear that I didn’t sleep the TALL TALE looks great standing of the red carpet is THE RUNWAYS · THE ROUNDUPS Spanx and use all the tricks, then they are going to be more night before. I had one of “The real tip is all still until you are told not wanting to fuss secure on that red carpet if it’s not their natural habitat. If those, ‘Oh, I don’t even about the stance. to walk the runway — once you are out of · THE REVIEWS · have a backup’ moments. you are really not a veteran and you are up against some of It is so much about and we know the red the car. You are not in Then I got paralyzed with the most beautiful, elegant, talented women, I can’t even shoulders back and carpet is the biggest ‘The King and I’ with a fear of thinking that red standing tall when runway.” million hoop skirts.” imagine what my heart would be doing. So just trying to make Issue: April 13 / Close: March 30 / Materials: April 4 wine or lipstick or makeup you enter any room her comfortable was a big part of it for me.” would get on it. And then or walk any carpet. If FOOD FOR FEET FIRST What is it like working with a girl who everyone suddenly I suddenly remembered you say it to yourself, THOUGHT “I thoroughly believe

wants to dress? “I would love to be the person who bitches that brides get married you will automatically “Make sure you in a gel pad in the Broadimage/REX/Shutterstock; Critics Choice by erstock; about certain brands, which when I called them for TIFF every day and they don’t sit up two inches. And eat, and not three shoe under the ball Sardella Donato by Paltrow /Shutterstock; have backup dresses. said, ‘Absolutely not’ or ‘We’ll do it for you as a favor, but it’s honest, it’s not hours before you are of foot. Nothing is When I heard the first we’re not interested.’ No fault to the brands — there’s only so fake. I always giggle leaving the house. less elegant than a person say, ‘Oh my God, because people We give everyone woman slipping off many clothes that can go out. But the flip of the nomination that’s amazing,’ I thought, always say how tall vitamin drips before her shoes. One of our suddenly was, ‘Sorry we couldn’t help you out that time, I’m all right.” I am. I’m 5’6”. But my an event. They give tricks is to change we’d love to work with you.’ I’m just grateful that it wakes mother always said, not just stamina but into Rocket Dog up people who should have known if we were working with ‘Posture, posture, ensure a person wedge flip-flops them that we weren’t looking for charity. posture’ — and heels, feels as well as they at parties after you “I think fashionwise, it’s exciting for her, but it’s also not her of course.” possibly can. On have walked the priority,” Saltzman says. “Her work and her life are her prior- these nights, you press lines.” ity. As a matter of fact, all the money deals were turned away.” REALITY CHECK normally are not “You should look eating or drinking, RUB IT IN While she said it’s nice to work with an actor who isn’t at yourself in the or you might only be “If you’re smart paid by a brand, it’s not any easier or harder to style them. mirror the way you drinking and that’s enough to get a lym- “This whole thing is a business, and I won’t jeopardize really stand, not the even worse.” phatic massage the Saoirse for it. However, I do recognize that you want to be way you pose. Most day before, it drains helpful to people while giving your clients their best chance people only pose well BAG IT you of puffiness. If at being their best selves. The difference of coming from so there are no VPL “I fully believe in hav- you do sport, do it in editorial is you understand it’s a business, but also that you [visible panty lines] ing a fully charged the morning. It makes or lumps or bumps, phone, lipstick or people look healthy will seek out the new, like at a magazine when you are trying but the moment you gloss and a mint and less puffy.” to appease the advertiser. I would make sure everyone had stand normally, you in the purse. I don’t what they needed, but I also really cared about helping the have a huge fashion believe in a load of new guy. Ditto working with Saoirse. My personal favorite mistake. Make sure makeup. It should be was putting her in a Duro Olowu dress at Palm Springs that you can actu- set already and at [International Film Festival]. He hasn’t gained the respect ally sit down in your every party there is a and notoriety of the outside world but the fashion world dress — we once makeup sponsor so adores him. made a dress so tight you can find what you a person couldn’t sit. need. The contents “It’s exciting to be current when you are so old,” she says. Make sure you can of bags should be “You are what you want to be. I haven’t figured out how to get up stairs and kept to a minimum so not sit on the bed with four newspapers, the TV going, my back down. In fashion you’re not fumbling favorite song playing and a bowl of candy.” ■ we know a dress around. A big part BAFTAs photograph by David Fisher/REX/Shutterstock; Luncheon by Rob Latour/REX/Shutterstock; SAG Awards by Matt Baron/BEI/Shutt by Awards SAG Latour/REX/Shutterstock; Rob by Luncheon David Fisher/REX/Shutterstock; by photograph BAFTAs Globes by David Fisher/REX/Shutterstock; Film Critics Choice by Andrew Walker/Variety/REX/Shutterstock; PSIFF by Broadimage/REX PSIFF by Walker/Variety/REX/Shutterstock; Andrew Film Critics Choice by David Fisher/REX/Shutterstock; Globes by FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR [email protected] 64 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM    W   W OSCARS BY THE NUMBERS BREAKING IT DOWN AND ADDING IT UP AT THE ACADEMY AWARDS. Compiled by DEBRA BORCHARDT Illustrations by SAM ISLAND

8 ½ 37.3M pounds Average number of Americans Weight of who tune in to watch the the Oscar Academy Awards. statuette.

The statues are Bob Hope plated in copper, has hosted nickel silver and the most then 24-karat gold. Oscar award ceremonies: The knight stands on a reel of film with five spokes representing 19 times. actors, writers, directors, producers and technicians.

It takes between three and four weeks to manufacture 307

50 statuettes. Number of films eligible for The red carpet measures 500 feet long and is 33 feet wide. this year’s Best Picture award.

Still photographers 63 on the red carpet. Red-carpet fan More than 1,000 limos were There are 60 ushers/ticket 745 bleacher seats. 45 rented during the 2015 awards. takers inside the auditorium.

seconds Time limit for acceptance Oscar limousines speeches. start work at 8 a.m. 80 $20M and go until 4 a.m. The most expensive jewelry on the next day. Number of countries submitting the red carpet, a Harry Winston High-Low: Sharon Stone paired foreign language films. necklace worn by “Titanic” star a Gap turtleneck with a Valentino Gloria Stuart in 1998. trumpet skirt in 1996.

A Calvin Klein gown designed by Francisco 2,947 BEAUTY CEO SUMMIT Costa was the most expensive dress worn Total number of Oscars to the Oscars. It cost presented since 1929. $150,000 and was worn  ŽfˆˆT  by Lupita Nyong’o in 2015. $250K Number of Oscars won by Rick Baker The value of gift bags for 6,261: The number of voting 7 for Best Makeup. presenters and performers at members in the Academy of this year’s ceremony. It includes Motion Pictures Arts and Sciences. a trip to Israel, a breast-lift, fitness sessions, a sex toy and Costume designer The Hollywood Bowl is The longest Oscars show: 4 expensive toilet paper. reserved just for Oscar hours and 23 minutes, in 2002 Edith Head was for the 74th Academy Awards. 50 nominated 35 limousine parking.

1,500: Guests invited to the Nominations for composer times — the most Governors Ball, the Academy’s John Williams, the most ever The first Oscars ceremony in official post-Oscars party. for a woman in any The show was first for a living person. 1929 lasted 15 minutes. “Wings” CHRIS BIRCHBY JENNY FRANKEL JAMIE KERN LIMA MARLA MALCOLM BECK category. She won was named Best Picture. televised in 1953. COOLA SKINCARE NUDESTIX IT COSMETICS BLUEMERCURY INC. eight statues. $25,000 to $35,000 Average price of a couture gown There are 1,013 TV press summits.wwd.com 900 worn at the Oscars. members and 36 print reporters at the awards show. ATTEND: KIM MANCUSO, [email protected], 646.356.4722 Event staff to serve them. SPONSOR: ALEXIS COYLE, Audrey Hepburn’s   ӎWT¤‹¤WŠŒ¤W‹ˆŽ Wolfgang Puck will create 50 1954 dress by Hubert dishes for the Governors Ball de Givenchy started a 270 EVENT SPONSORS following the awards ceremony, trend toward designer including a 24-karat gold- Crew members working during gowns at the awards. FAIRCHILD covered chocolate Oscar. the Oscars telecast. SUMMITS ANNUAL PARTNERS

66 FEBRUARY 2016, No. 4 WWD.COM ARMANI.COM