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Port and the Douro Spent Five Years Offers Unparalleled Insight Into the World Working for the of Port and Douro Wines

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Port and the Douro Spent Five Years Offers Unparalleled Insight Into the World Working for the of Port and Douro Wines MAYSON RICHARD MAYSON Richard Mayson Written in an authoritative but entertaining entered the wine manner by Port expert Richard Mayson, trade in 1984 and the third edition of Port and the Douro spent five years offers unparalleled insight into the world working for the of Port and Douro wines. From the history Wine Society, the of the wine trade in Portugal (the grape PORT world’s oldest “Richard Mayson is a champion of a wine culture and a fresh and is thought to have been brought there by mail-order wine the Phoenicians) to the present day, this club. In 1987 he authoritative voice in wine literature” Hugh Johnson wonderful book offers the reader the inside was awarded the story of these magnificent wines. Vintners’ Company Scholarship and spent three months in the vineyards of Iberia. Now On Port on the Douro, second edition The new edition includes a great deal of new based in the north of England, Richard has information on the cultivation of the Douro’s been working as a freelance wine writer “a useful insider’s view” Financial Times vineyards. An entire chapter is dedicated and lecturer since 1989. His first book, the to vintage Port to include harvests as recent award-winning Portugal’s Wines and Wine- as 2011 and information on vintages back Makers, was published in 1992, followed by “authoritative…Mayson casts a knowledgeable and, where necessary, to 1844. Vintages have been reappraised a second edition in 1998. He also wrote The critical eye over the past, present and future of Port” Sunday Times to bring them up-to-date. The structure of AND THE Story of Dow’s Port, published to coincide with the trade has also changed in recent years the company’s bi-centenary in 1998. The “definitive and well written” San Jose Mercury with withdrawal of the multinationals and first edition of this book, published in 1999, the sale and amalgamation of a number of was short-listed for the Andre Simon Award famous Port firms. These are included in the and the second edition, published in 2004, “Comprehensive. Buy the book!” New England Wine Gazette comprehensive directory of Port Producers won the Symington Award of Excellence. and Shippers. A new postscript addresses Richard’s book The Wines and Vineyards of “an informative guide to one of the greatest of fortified wines” The Scotsman some of the challenges and changes that Portugal won the André Simon Award for the might affect Port and the Douro in future. DOURO Drinks Book of the Year in 2003. “Mayson’s knowledge is encyclopaedic” Food and Drink, Ireland This completely updated edition of Port and Richard has contributed to a number of the Douro provides a comprehensive study publications, including the Oxford Companion of port and its production, making it an to Wine and the Larousse Encyclopaedia of indispensable reference guide to the world’s Wine. He writes regularly for Decanter and PORT greatest fortified wine. the World of Fine Wine, and lectures to Wine and Spirit Education Trust students and at Leith’s School of Food and Wine in AND THE London. Richard currently divides his time between his home and business interests in the Derbyshire Peak District and the Alentejo, Portugal where he owns a vineyard. In 1999 he became a Cavaleiro of the Confraria do Vinho do Porto. DOURO Front cover: Quinta dos Frades Back cover (clockwise from top left): the first varietal vineyard at Quinta de Vargellas; sustainable viticulture; Reserva Port ageing in Vila Nova de Gaia; Douro www.infideas.com £30.00 panorama from Pinhão to Roncão www.ebook3000.com Port cover.indd 1 22/10/12 17:26:09 PORT AND THE DOURO Richard Mayson entered the wine trade as a result of living and working in Portugal, which he first visited as a child in 1970. He read Geography at the University of Sheffield where part of his degree was a study of the microclimate of Port vineyards in the Douro Valley. He entered the UK wine trade in 1984 and spent five years working for the Wine Society, the world’s oldest mail-order wine club. In 1987 he was awarded the Vintners’ Company Scholarship and spent three months in the vineyards of Iberia. Now based in the north of England, Richard has been working as a freelance wine writer and lecturer since 1989. His first book, the award-winning Portugal’s Wines and Wine-Makers, was published in 1992, followed by a second edition in 1998. He also wrote The Story of Dow’s Port, published to coincide with the company’s bicentenary in 1998. The first edition of this book, published in 1999, was shortlisted for the André Simon Award and the second edition, published in 2004, won the Symington Award of Excellence. Richard’s book The Wines and Vineyards of Portugal, published by Mitchell Beazley, won the André Simon Award for the Drinks Book of the Year in 2003. Richard has contributed to a number of publications, including the Oxford Companion to Wine and the Larousse Encyclopaedia of Wine. He writes regularly for Decanter and the World of Fine Wine, and lectures to students at the Wine and Spirit Education Trust and Leith’s School of Food and Wine in London. Richard currently divides his time between his home and business interests in the Derbyshire Peak District and the Alentejo in Portugal where he owns a vineyard. In 1999 he became a Cavaleiro of the Confraria do Vinho do Porto. Leo Duff was born in Belfast and studied Illustration at Brighton College of Art and the Royal College of Art in London. Over the past fifteen years she has combined commissions with her personal practice to create work for five exhibitions based on Northern Portugal and its unique and distinctive land- and cityscape. Her speciality is in creating a sense of place, and clients have included Sainsbury, American Express, Elle, Vogue, Penguin Books, BP Oil, The Times, Nord Deutsches Landesbank and Saatchi & Saatchi. She also illustrated The Wines and Vineyards of Portugal, published by Mitchell Beazley. Leo Duff is currently Course Director of MA Drawing as Process at Kingston University, Surrey, England. www.ebook3000.com PORT AND THE DOURO RICHARD MAYSON with illustrations by Leo Duff Copyright © Richard Mayson, 2013 The right of Richard Mayson to be identified as the author of this book has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. First published in 2013 by Infinite Ideas Limited 36 St Giles Oxford OX1 3LD United Kingdom www.infideas.com All rights reserved. Except for the quotation of small passages for the purposes of criticism or review, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except under the terms of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 or under the terms of a licence issued by the Copyright Licensing Agency Ltd, 90 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 4LP, UK, without the permission in writing of the publisher. Requests to the publisher should be addressed to the Permissions Department, Infinite Ideas Limited, 36 St Giles, Oxford, OX1 3LD, UK, or faxed to +44 (0) 1865 514777. A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN 978-1-908984-17-3 Brand and product names are trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective owners. Pictures facing pages 52, 53 and 180 and jacket photos of Quinta de Vargellas, sustainable viticulture and Douro panorama courtesy of Fladgate Partnership. Pictures facing pages 85, 181, 212 and 213 and jacket photo of ageing Reserve Port courtesy of Symington Family Estates. Cover designed by Cylinder Text designed and typeset by Nicki Averill Design Printed in Britain www.ebook3000.com To the late Jorge Maria Cabral Ferreira, who first inspired my interest in Port and the Douro www.ebook3000.com CONTENTS Acknowledgements ix Preface to the third edition xi 1. Port and the Douro up to date 1 2. Vineyards, vines and quintas 53 3. Making Port: Tradition and technology 125 4. Port types 141 5. Vintage Port 160 6. Port producers and shippers 203 7. Douro wines 243 8. Directions in Oporto and the Douro 262 9. Postscript 271 Glossary 274 Appendices i. Institutions promoting and regulating Port and Douro wine 280 ii. Port benefício / total production 2001–2011 285 iii. Port grape varieties 286 iv. Global sales of Port wine 292 v. Global share of premium Ports 294 Index 296 MAPS Map 1. The north of Portugal and the Douro 55 Map 2. The Douro, showing prominent quintas 92 Map 3. The location of Port lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia 265 VIII CONTENTS FIGURES Fig. 1. Contrasting systems of cultivation in Douro vineyards 63 Fig. 2. Autovinification 131 ILLUSTRATIONS Terraces, Cima Corgo xii Noble house, Vilariça 15 Verandah, Quinta do Bomfim 32 ‘Bombs house’, São João de Pesqueira 50 Octagenarian vine 68 Harvester’s kitchen, Quinta do Bomfim 89 Granite chapel, São Salvador do Mundo 90 Senhora da Ribeira. ‘John Major had lunch here’ 113 Cestos: old and new 126 Macacos: ‘monkey sticks’ 129 Basket press 139 Balões … ‘ginas’, ‘mamas’, ‘Lollobrigidas’ 141 Toneis, pipas and balseiros 143 Fonseca’s room with a view 147 Ponte D. Luíz and Gaia 204 Bacalhau 230 Barco rabelo 264 One of the world’s great train journeys 266 www.ebook3000.com ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I am indebted to a huge number of people who have helped me since I first arrived in Oporto over thirty years ago. The following roster of names, which reads almost like a wine list, is by no means exhaustive but I hope that all those who have assisted directly with the preparation of this book are included.
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