The Jewelry Collection Here It Is— What Every Woman Wants

Ultimate Access The Jewelry Collection Here it is— what every woman wants. By Cathleen 1 McCarthy

Photographs by Gabriella Imperatori-Penn Styled by Michele Faro

Edited by David Masello Produced by Heather Bracher Severs O C TO B E R 2 0 0 8 00 ASSEMBLING WHAT MIGHT BE CONSIDERED THE ULTIMATE JEWELRY COLLECTION

is not so unlike collecting paintings, ceramics or wine. You seek out the best examples of a partic- ular category, whether it’s Deco-era Cartier or

contemporary studio jewelry. But as opposed to 3 other fine collectibles, you can wear your prized pieces, have them function as objects that en- hance you. When chosen confidently, with an eye 1 for timeless design, jewelry can become the most powerful accessory in your wardrobe, an indeli- ble stamp of your personal taste. “The key to creating the ultimate jewelry collection is to find designs that are unique but that can stand up to changing fashions,” says Russell Zelenetz, co-owner of Stephen Russell in New York City. “You don’t want jewelry to be so high- fashion that it’s out of style next year. At the same time, you don’t want it to be staid.” 2 The Duchess of Windsor was famous for her jewels, most of which were commissioned by the 4 Duke, a noted jewelry connoisseur. The Wind- sors could afford the most opulent jewelry in the world yet gravitated to decidedly tasteful, chic pieces by designers such as Suzanne Belperron, who often worked with semiprecious stones like agate or chalcedony. Seventy years later, Bel- perron’s creations are among the most sought- after anywhere. “If your jewelry is striking and well-coordinated, you don’t reason you can’t have both—focus on what attracts you, have to wear the most beautiful clothing in the world,” says advises the New York dealer and collector Lee Siegelson. Candy Udell, who co-owns the five-store London Jewelers “Take the time to find the best examples of it,” he says. chain, which has locations in Southampton and East “Find experts to guide you, but just as important, learn to Hampton, New York. “When you walk into a room, people trust your own instincts.” notice the jewelry first.” Wearing unique estate jewelry is one way to ensure hav- Above: 1. Renee Lewis amethyst drop earrings ($9,000). 2. Me&Ro ing that effect in a room. “A great piece of jewelry never sterling-silver hoop earrings ($1,275). 3. Amrita Singh gold, diamond and tourmaline earrings ($11,200). 4. Ted Muehling gold, diamond, opal and goes out of style,” says Ellen Israel, of Kentshire Galleries seed-pearl earrings ($8,000). Previous page: 1. Chanel Fine Jewelry dia- in New York. “Jewelry made in France and America in the mond and sapphire brooch ($305,000). 2. David Yurman sterling-silver, 1930s and ’40s had a level of design and craftsmanship that diamond and blue-chalcedony bracelet ($2,100). 3. Kwiat Vintage Collec- can’t be touched now. The trick is to find pieces that ex- tion diamond earrings ($20,000). 4. Fred Leighton 19th-century diamond necklace ($325,000). 5. Verdura aquamarine-bead necklace ($26,500). press your individual taste and personality.” 6. Van Cleef & Arpels chalcedony and mother-of-pearl necklace Whether you buy old or contemporary—and there’s no ($17,000). 7. Stephen Russell aquamarine and diamond ring ($28,000).

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9 1. Temple St. Claire rock-crystal-amulet chain necklace ($5,800). 2. Irene Neuwirth carnelian necklace ($19,960). 3. Kentshire gold link bracelet ($14,000). 4. Cartier gold Tank Française watch ($16,900). 5. Fred Leighton old-mine-cut-diamond earrings ($140,000). 6. Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. enamel bangles ($22,000 each). 7. Chopard South Sea–baroque–pearl and diamond necklace (price on request). 8. Mikimoto akoya-pearl necklace ($11,900). 9. Faraone Mennella by R.F.M.A.S. gold and diamond link earrings ($6,000). 10. Ippolita turquoise and blue-topaz stackable bracelets ($3,250– $6,500). 11. Siegelson diamond bracelet ($1,100,000). 12. Chopard diamond hoop earrings ($91,000). 13. Siegelson diamond, sapphire and blue-chalcedony necklace ($990,000). 14. De Beers diamond earrings ($130,000). 15. Martin Katz emerald-cut-diamond ring ($485,000). 16. De Beers diamond wedding band ($3,900). 17. Tony Duquette gold and multistone cocktail ring (price on request). 18. Mish New York aquamarine and mint-tourmaline drop earrings ($58,000). 19. Verdura cocholong and multistone Maltese cuff ($25,500). 20. Buccellati gold and diamond cuff ($49,600). 21. Harry Winston sapphire and diamond ring ($950,000). 22. Tanagro diamonds-by-the-yard necklace ($316,000). 23. Graff yellow- and white-diamond earrings (price on request). 24. James de Givenchy for Taffin multistone cocktail ring ($70,000). Far left: Smythson Aqua Deluxe jewelry box ($3,335).

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24 23 WHAT EVERY WOMAN NEEDS A woman’s jewelry box, or her at-home safe, should contain lots of personal favorites, at many values. But any great, thorough collection will likely include the following pieces. When a woman is in possession 1 of these, she’ll never want for the right items to wear. 7 2 BRACELETS NECKLACES Verdura white enamel Classic string of cuff, such as the one Coco cultured pearls from Chanel famously wore, Mikimoto. Chokers mea- 6 or diamond-set gold cuff sure fourteen to sixteen 3 by Buccellati. inches; princess-length Art Deco–style diamond necklaces measure seven- bracelet by either Cartier teen to nineteen inches. or Mauboussin. Everyday necklace, 4 Enamel and gold bangle such as a simple gold chain designed by Jean Schlum- or one with a crystal and berger for Tiffany & Co. in gold pendant, by a designer 5 the 1950s. like Temple St. Clair. Twenty-four-karat- RINGS gold link bracelet designed Diamond engage- by Elizabeth Locke, or a ment ring and wedding similar vintage piece. band (provided the BROOCHES wearer is married). Estate brooch from Fancy cocktail ring Kentshire or another (worn on the right hand). Ultimate Collection Checklist vintage jeweler. Fred Leighton Van Cleef & Arpels vintage-style rose- Collect around a Learn to evaluate Buy signed pieces theme. “It doesn’t authenticity and whenever possi- brooch-pendant with cut-diamond ring. matter if the condition. Romero ble. Their scarcity invisibly set gemstones. WATCHES theme you choose insists anyone can increases value, is a period, a learn to use a mag- and they are hard- EARRINGS For every day, a Cartier style or a designer,” nifying loupe and er to knock off. Exotic South Sea– Tank watch, inspired by says the noted tell the difference pearl studs. the shape of WWI tanks jewelry historian between good Arm yourself Diamond studs. and popular since it and appraiser craftsmanship with knowledge. Diamond clusters. debuted, in the 1920s. Christie Romero, and shoddy work. “Attend museum who frequently exhibits and Hoop earrings (gold, For evening, a Harry appears on televi- Find a reputable auction previews,” silver and diamond). Winston diamond watch. sion’s Antiques dealer who advises Romero. Roadshow. “A specializes in the “Ask lots of “I THINK YOU’RE THE ONLY good collection kind of jewelry questions, and GIRL IN THE WORLD THAT is worth more that interests you, handle as than the sum of and develop much jewelry as CAN STAND ON A STAGE WITH its parts.” a relationship. possible.” A SPOTLIGHT IN HER EYE AND STILL SEE A DIAMOND INSIDE Above: 1. Stephen Webster turquoise and quartz ring ($6,000). 2. Laura A MAN’S POCKET.” Munder mandarin-garnet and diamond ring ($45,000). 3. Damiani diamond —Jane Russell to Marilyn Monroe in Gentlemen Sophia Loren ring ($16,980). 4. Valente multicolored-sapphire ring ($9,000). Prefer Blondes (1953) 5. Verdura black-opal and sapphire ring ($48,500). 6. David Yurman yellow- sapphire and coral ring ($9,500). 7. Sevan micromosaic ring ($39,776).

O C TO B E R 2 0 0 8 00 Bulgari cabochon- cut-tourmaline neck- INSURED lace (approximately Bidding ADVICE $250,000). for Jewels When insuring a jewelry collection, verify that Most auction houses host pre- your pieces are what views at which prospective they’re represented to be. buyers can try on the featured Too often, people assume jewels. And many of the houses that what the seller hold presale viewings in cities claims is true. Have each piece examined by a gem- other than those in which the ologist and an appraiser actual sales take place (check (reputable jewelers are with each auction house). often both).

September 24: (christies.com) Owners of rare pieces need cash policies, not re- Important Estate December 8–9: placement policies. These Jewelry at Doyle Magnificent Jew- guarantee that if a lost New York (doyle els at Sotheby’s, piece is worth $100,000, newyork.com) New York you will receive a check October 14: (sothebys.com) for that amount. Reputa- Fine Jewelry at December 9: ble firms include Jewel- “IT WAS A TOSS- Bonhams, New Fine Jewelry at ers Mutual ( jewelers UP WHETHER I’D York (www. Skinner, Boston mutual.com), which of- bonhams.com) (skinnerinc.com) fers policies that are in- GO IN FOR DIA- dependent of home- MONDS OR SING October 15: December 11: owner’s insurance, and Jewels: the New New York Jewels Chubb (chubb.com). IN THE CHOIR. York Sale at Chris- at Christie’s When seeking values, tie’s New York New York THE CHOIR LOST.” don’t rely solely on —Mae West in She Done Him Wrong (1933) auction-house special- ists. They operate on the Although many Beware of in-ground safes in can remove even a heavy safe. assumption that you will KEEPING women like to cold climates. Dramatically fluc- be selling a piece through Have your safe wired to your them, so their estimates have their jew- tuating temperatures can cause home security system. Some IT are based on their own els close by, thermoshock to gems such as safes come with alarms. SAFE arranged in a opals and emeralds. comparable sales and re- jewelry box, GemSafe makes safes with serve prices. If you go to valuable pieces Make sure your safe is drill- built-in jewelry boxes ($16,500– an auction house to have are best stored in home safes. resistant, as well as heat- and $29,500; gemsafes.com); the jewelry valuated, bring But even safes have their fire-resistant. Safes rarely Manhattan weighs 500 pounds, an outside appraiser. the Heritage 700 pounds, and unsafe characteristics. feature interior lights because Another source for evalu- the Estate 900 pounds. Traum any connection to an electri- ating estate jewelry is Safes and safe-deposit boxes cal outlet can create a fire Safe (traumsafe.com) makes can be dry environments that similar models. CustomVault Circa (circajewels.com), hazard. Instead, install a bat- which owns and operates may be especially damaging tery-operated LED. (customvault.com), Empire Safe to pearls and opals. Either (empiresafe.com) and Rolland a worldwide chain of of- keep a damp cloth inside the Have your safe bolted to the floor Safe Company (rslc.net) sell ba- fices; a person can bring box and check it frequently or from the inside. If it can be un- sic home safes and can arrange in jewels for an immedi- buy a humidor-style safe. screwed from the outside, thieves for installation and service. ate assessment of worth and sell them on the spot.

For shopping information, see page xx

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