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Surveys on the Road from Shiraz to Bam Author(S): B Surveys on the Road from Shiraz to Bam Author(s): B. Lovett Source: The Journal of the Royal Geographical Society of London, Vol. 42 (1872), pp. 202- 212 Published by: Wiley on behalf of The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers) Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/1798596 Accessed: 27-06-2016 05:21 UTC Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at http://about.jstor.org/terms JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact [email protected]. The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers), Wiley are collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to The Journal of the Royal Geographical Society of London This content downloaded from 137.99.31.134 on Mon, 27 Jun 2016 05:21:49 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms 202 LOVETT'S Surveys ORl the Roadfrorz SAliraz to Ba>Rz. VII. Sur?veys on the Roc/,d froxn Shz?csz to Ban$. BY MajO1 1J. LOVETT, R.E. [Read, May 13,1872.] THERE are several roads that run bet+^reen Shiraz and XerIllall; that 1lsually travelled over, and the one I adopted, goes v8^ :Niriz. The other usual one is sza Darab. Ill summer, a road leading oser very elevated ground and going via Shehr-i-Babelz is sometimes taken. The difEerent routes are detailed at tlle erld of this memoranduln. rl'he road I took leaves the Sllilaz Valley to the north-east, passing by the Bagh-i-Dilkhusha ancl Saadi7s Tomb, and is a very fair road as far as the town of Niriz, so thatJ carts can proceed along it without the slightest difficulty. After arrivillg at Dudeh, our first stage, I found the road to Siriz lay in the Persepolis Valley, as I shall call it for the sake of distinction, $S the famed ruills are situated in it. This- valley or " Julga " extends from BIayin Oll tlle west to Siris, its eastern estremity, and measures about 210 miles in lellgtll. Tlhe westerll portion is called Atervsedasht; at the poillt my route entered upon it the distriet is called :@olwar. In this valley is situated the famous salt lalKe known as the " Deria Sumuk," and generally designated ill the published lllaps as Lake Bakhtavan; why I know not, as tlle inhabitants of its southern sllLore do llot even recognize it by that name. Millerl I passed by, the lake +^>as quite dry, but its usual limits +sere- well defined by a wide expanse of saline deposit. As far as I could discover, it appears that.. this expanse is generally coverecl witll salt water to the deptll of from 1 to 4 yards, but this year, owing to its being the third rainless season, the lake has been thoroughly clried up. The Bunclamir Pkiver, which drains a very large basin and is a consiclerable stream, dwindles to a small stream by the time that it reaches the margin of the lake,- its waters, except in rainy seasons, being exhausted by numerous canals and other irligation worlis zvhich occur in its collrse through Melvedasht and Kolxvar, especially in the latter dis- triet. Major St. Johll, R.E., suggested that I should probably :tind the lake to lie a great deal nlo3ne to the south than tlle position it is usually represented as oceIlpyillg. A glanee at tlae map will sllow tilat MaJol St. John was eorrect in lliS eonjeeture. The asis of the lake, so to speak, partakes of the parallelism of the +alleys ancl ehains of moulltains adjaeent, and these in all hitherto published maps of Persia ineline insuffieiently to the south. 'l'he roek on both sides of the valley is a limestone of the same gelleral eharaeteristies This content downloaded from 137.99.31.134 on Mon, 27 Jun 2016 05:21:49 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms LOVETT'S Suaveys on tAte Roadfrom Shirazto Bam. 2037 as the limestone near Shiraz, which I believe is "nummu litic." I observed to the south of the hills forming the southern boundary of the Persepolis Valley, that there existed a lofty snow-capped range running parallel with it: this lay between the valley of Rohniz and that of Fesa, but is not the " Gushnagan " Eills of the maps, which are a distinct range nearer to Shiraz. The position of Niriz ascertailled on this journey diSers sery considerably from that shown in even recently publishecI maps. I have marked in red its usual position. This town, which is sitllated about 12 miles east of the shores of the " Deria Numuk," is of considerable commercial importance. Its exports are chiefly almonds and figs, which are shipped in great quan- tities vta Bunder Abbas for Bombay. The population isw said to be about 3500, and the revenue paid to the Govern- ment of Fars amounts to 12,000 tomans. It is a large town with many orchards, vineyards, arld gardens interspersed between houses built of sun-dried bricks. It is divided into three parishes or " mahalehs "; that to the south, termed the " Mahaleh Bala,"^ is well known to be peopled almost entirely by Babis, who, though they do not openly profess their faith in the teachings of Syud Ali Mahomed, the Bab, still practise tlle prirlciples of communism he inculcated. It is certain, moreover, that the tolerance which was one of the chief precepts inculcated by the Bab is here observed, for not only was I invited to make use of the public humam, if I required it, but quarters also were assigned to me in a " Madresseh." On the road to Niriz, after leaving Dudeh, I passed Rerameh and SiJilabad, both large villages surrounded by very extensive fruit-growing gardens. The tllird day's halt was at a tower midway between Kerameh and :Shir, called Shan-i-Kitf, and situated in the midst of a small wood of binnehX or van-trees. Shir is a large village situated at the entrance of a pass connecting the Persepolis Valley with those of Rohniz and Savonat, Idj, and Darab. The lofty rallge of hills, at the foot of which the town of Niriz is situated, is there locally termed the " Loirez " range; further to the north the same chain is ealled from the villages on its southern slopes tTse Koh-i-Deh Murd and the Koh-i- :Kwaja Mali respectively. This range then runs on in a north- westerly direction past Bohnat, Dehbid, and Izidkhast on the Tehran road. There are extensive forests of wi]d cherry-trees on the hills of }iwaja Mali, the wood of whicll forms a staple article of commerce. A thorough exploration of this chain of hills fiom its oulminating point, Padinah, to +here it terminates * The wild pistachio. This content downloaded from 137.99.31.134 on Mon, 27 Jun 2016 05:21:49 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms 2()4 LOVETT'S Surveys on tAle Roadfrom Shiraz to Bam. near the shores of the Persian Gulf, would be most interesting geographically and geologically. Unfortunately, these hills are infested with robbers of the Lushani tribe, both suinluer and winter. Several times during our four days' journey in the Persepolis Valley their horsemen reconnoitred our party, which tlley evidently considered too strong to be worth an attack on tlle caravan. The passage over the Loirez ltills is by a pass 18 miles long, attaining an elevation at its watershed of 5640 feet, Niriz being about 4280, and Eotro, the haltin?-place in the ne2zt valley, beillg about 4250. This pass is not practicable for artillery, and the supply of water is precarious. The Kotro Valley beyond, with its solitary village, presents a picture of desolation that I have rarely seen equalled. It runs in a more southerly direction than the Perse,oolis one, and has no visible limit in that direction except the horizon. So far, indeed, does it e2atend that the Collector of Kotro, Futh Ali Khan, repeating the popular tradition, told me it extended to the confines of Sind ! The Darab Valley joins it a few fursukhs to the south of Kotro, aIld the two arnalgamated go on towards rlaarull. The hills Oll its eastern side are lofty, one specially so, calIed Tung (:hal. These hills lelong to the main chains running from l)ehbid. The lower ground of tlle Kotro Valley is occupied by low malshy ground, a salt lake after rain, and a salt desert or " lzevir" in dry seasons. It i8 very extensive. 'l'he village of Rotro itself consists of abollt 40 houses. Owing to the failure of some "lsanats," or subterranean canals, the , realth and populatioll of this village has-e much decreased; but though at present a miserable wreck, it contains several fine old forts and buildillgs and t\vo wind towers, xvhich form capital 1?3nf1lllarlQs. 'The house in whicll I was accommodated eontained very large and lofty roorns in the olcl Persian style; but all in a larllentalule state of disrepail. This valley is famous for its herds of wild asses, or Ghur-i-Khar. There ale in the neighbour- hood, it is estinlated, upwalds of 2000 heacl. 'l'lley may be seen browsing early in the Inorllin,; but though I came across tlaces of them verv frequently, I was not fortunate enough to fall in with any.
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