Mccain® Has a Pizza Solution for Every Menu

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column” returns »

BARBECUE BLISS Tom Davis’ Stockyards Smokehouse and Larder attracts Torontonians hungry for authentic barbecue

Download F&H’s free digital magazine foodserviceworld.com $4 • March 2013 for the iPad Slice of Truth #77: Burgers like to keep their options open.

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ART DIRECTOR:Darryl ARTIST: Ryan

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A Find out KITCHEN C what’s hot SAVERS on the barbie Pinpointing equipment that GENERATION reduces labour GAP How to attract REVAMPED a new cohort + WE VE to foodservice ANA“ LYZ’ED

THIS

column” returns »

BARBECUE BLISS Tom Davis’ Stockyards Smokehouse and Larder attracts Torontonians hungry for authentic barbecue

Download F&H’s free digital magazine foodserviceworld.com $4 • March 2013 for the iPad Slice of Truth #77: Burgers like to keep their options open.

For great recipes, visit sliceoftruth.com

ACC. MGR: Lila PROD. MGR: Nikki

ART DIRECTOR:Darryl ARTIST: Ryan

R ARTIST: Kyle

P DATE: 2-12-2013 3:17 PM PREP ARTIST: kyle

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R ARTIST: Jason

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VOLUME 46, NUMBER 1 MARCH 2013 CONTENTS

Features 18 CLASSIC MEETS CONTEMPORARY Although purists love traditional barbecue,  select chefs are emerging with twists on the tried-and-true By Adrian Bell

26 AN APPETITE FOR SUCCESS Tom Davis woos diners with Carolina-style ue bec barbecue at the helm of Toronto’s acclaimed Bar Stockyards Smokehouse and Larder By Jackie Sloat-Spencer Departments W E 2 FROM THE EDITOR D

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H 32 RECOVERING THE SHORTFALL 3 MASTHEAD P Find out how to attract and retain millenni - O

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R als and baby boomers as the pool of avail - H

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Y able workers shrinks By Liz Campbell B

Y ROBERT CARTER

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A 14 WE’VE ANALYZED THIS R Tom Davis, G O

T 39 COOKING BY NUMBERS 17 BOOKS FOR COOKS owner,

O Labour-saving equipment is budget-friendly, H

P The Stockyards

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E especially for large-volume and institutional Smokehouse and V 48 CHEF’S CORNER: O

C foodservice operators By Denise Deveau Lee Cooper, L’Abattoir, Vancouver Larder, Toronto

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY MARCH 2013 1 FROM THE EDITOR

For daily news and announcements: @fsworld on and Foodserviceworld on . Twitter Facebook

WAowL heaKlthy iIs NhealtGhy? W itTh coHn - Enee d Tto bAe vigLilanKt and mindful of what sumers becoming increasingly they ingest if they have allergies. But the health conscious at every turn, industry also has a responsibility to pro - the foodservice industry is being forced vide a greater range of options and ensure to trim the fat and cut the calories. certain dishes are as healthy as they claim. HWhile the industry has made significant Furthermore, foodservice operators need progress in recent years, the question to become increasingly cautious about remains: are restaurants truly walking using excessive sodium, especially given a the talk? huge portion of the QSR customer-base Like consumers, the industry has are children and teenagers. migrated through an obsession with Undoubtedly, operators have a lot on low-fat products, zero-trans-fat items, their plates these days. Not only do they low carbs and a fascination with low have to contend with rising food costs, sodium. Now, as we move to more bal - labour shortages and a world in flux, but anced eating, operators are more willing they’re also being asked to be the social to experiment with healthier options, conscience of their customers. And, as but with that willingness comes a dose change continues to occur, the reality is of confusion as to what exactly needs to operators need to get with the program be done. For example, should operators and become proactive, rather than having commit to big menu changes based on change forced on them, ultimately allow - Operators have a lot customer preferences, especially since ing customers to make the right choices. perceptions of healthy eating at restau - With that in mind, last year F&H “ on their plates these rants are constantly evolving? launched a column called “Analyze This,” days. Not only do they Adding to the challenges are govern - written by Sandra Matheson and the have to contend with ment efforts to mandate better choices Food Systems Inc. team. The column was and advocates taking the industry to task our attempt to illustrate how certain dishes rising food costs, for not being healthy enough — especial - could be made healthier by substituting labour shortages and ly with regard to sodium — all the while simple ingredients. This year, we’ve tweak- a world in flux, but pushing further changes. But imagine the ed that column, changing its name to challenges faced by operators forced to “We’ve Analyzed This,” and taken a case- they’re also being cut calories, adapt to shifting trends and study approach, looking at individual asked to be the social post nutritional content of their offerings operators who have made significant conscience of their on menus, while being expected to create changes to ensure their menus are health - meals that tantalize customer palates and ier while highlighting their actions and the customers fuel sales. And, is it fair that operators are resulting changes. This month’s revamped expected to be custodians of public column ( see p. 14 ) showcases the efforts of ” health when consumers don’t always industry leader Tim Hortons to reduce the walk the talk themselves? sodium content of its menu. We hope you Still, as much as consumers need to enjoy the column and that it inspires you take health matters into their own hands, to consider making similar, necessary they’re eating out with greater frequency changes to your menu. and for more meal occasions than ever before, which can make a healthy-eating plan more difficult. There are some con - sumers, in fact, who consume food away from home for all three meal occasions. Rosanna Caira Certainly, it’s up to individuals to deter - Editor/Publisher mine what they choose to eat, just as they [email protected]

2 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY MARCH 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM PRESIDENT & GROUP PUBLISHER MITCH KOSTUCH [email protected]

EDITOR & PUBLISHER ROSANNA CAIRA rcaira@ kostuchmedia.com ART DIRECTOR DAVID HEATH dheath@ kostuchmedia.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR BRIANNE BINELLI bbinelli@ kostuchmedia.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR ADRIAN BELL abell@ kostuchmedia.com ASSISTANT EDITOR JACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER jsloat-spencer@ kostuchmedia.com WEB COMMUNICATIONS SPECIALIST MAYA TCHERNINA mtchernina@ kostuchmedia.com

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ADVISORY BOARD BOSTON PIZZA INTERNATIONAL, INC. KEN OTTO CORA FRANCHISE GROUP DAVID POLNY EXTREME BRANDZ GROUP OF COMPANIES ALEX RECHICHI FHG INTERNATIONAL INC. DOUG FISHER FRESHII MATTHEW CORRIN HEALTH CHECK, CANADA I THE HEART & STROKE FOUNDATION KATIE JESSOP LECOURS WOLFSON HOSPITALITY MANAGEMENT & CHEF RECRUITERS NORMAN WOLFSON MAPLE LEAF SPORTS + ENTERTAINMENT (MLSE) ROBERT BARTLEY NEW YORK FRIES & SOUTH ST. BURGER CO. JAY GOULD PRIME RESTAURANTS INC. NICK PERPICK SCHOOL OF HOSPITALITY & TOURISM MANAGEMENT, UNIVERSITY OF GUELPH BRUCE MCADAMS SENSORS QUALITY MANAGEMENT INC. DAVID LIPTON SOTOS LLP JOHN SOTOS THE GARLAND GROUP MANITOWOC FOODSERVICE JACQUES SEQUIN THE HOUSE OF COMMONS JUDSON SIMPSON THE MCEWAN GROUP MARK MCEWAN UNILEVER FOOD SOLUTIONS NORTH AMERICA GINNY HARE To subscribe to F&H, visit foodserviceworld.com .

Volume 46, Number 1. Published 11 times per year by Kostuch Media Ltd., 23 Lesmill Rd., Suite 101, Toronto, Ont. , M3B 3P6. Tel: (416) 447-0888, Fax (416) 447-5333, website: foodserviceworld.com.

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NMaruch’st Nraititoniaol Nnutr itNion Maotntiho is an reminder that foodservice operators should note the move toward cleaner eating BY jACKIE SLOAT -SPENCER FYI

Super Power Panera Bread made headlines when it became one of the first arch is National Nutrition Month, and the Dietitians of Canada are encouraging restaurant chains to post caloric chefs and consumers to take a closer look at what’s on the plate. The good news is information on its menus last the message is being heard. According to Technomic’s “2012 Canadian Healthy Eating September. This March, it’s MConsumer Trend Report,” health is becoming a priority for consumers, and 67 per cent celebrating National Nutrition of Canadians polled said it’s important to eat healthy and pay attention to nutrition, com - Month by featuring three new pared to 54 per cent of consumers polled in 2010. As consumers tune in to their health, items from its Power Line, restaurateurs must keep up by offering various nutritious foods to appeal to the growing including a Spinach Power health-conscious palate. But, it turns out they’re already listening as vegetables are begin - Salad ( pictured ) with fresh baby ning to take centre plate. And, according to Barbara Jaques, a registered dietitian and sen - spinach, a roasted mushroom- ior associate at Toronto’s Food Systems Consulting Inc., cauliflower and rhubarb will and-onion blend, diced egg, emerge as the “superfoods” on menus this year as both are locally grown and flexible in Applewood-smoked bacon, preparation. Other vegetables, such as candy-cane beets, parsnips and edamame, are also frizzled onions and onion predicted to gain favour. Likewise, healthy grains such as wheatberry, freekeh (a roasted vinaigrette (480 calories). Other green wheat), quinoa and barley are growing in popularity. But as operators diversify items include a Breakfast Power their grains, more are hopping on the gluten-free train, especially since last year, when Sandwich made with egg, white researchers discovered gluten sensitivities that are not necessarily associated with celiac cheddar and smoked lean ham disease. Jaques explains: “This confirmation of gluten sensitivity has resulted in a huge on freshly baked whole-grain increase in gluten-free products available to consumers.” In fact, according to Technomic, bread (360 calories), and a Low- gluten-free claims have more than quadrupled on limited-service restaurant menus and Fat Superfruit Power Smoothie, tripled on full-service restaurant menus. Meanwhile, children’s meals are also being made with a fruit purée, blended revamped. For example, macaroni and cheese can be mixed with a cauliflower purée for with organic plain Greek non-fat a hidden nutritious benefit. “Consumers in 2013 are going to prioritize a diet that makes yogurt and boosted with ginseng them feel good,” says Kelly Weikel, senior consumer research manager at Technomic. “It’s (200 calories). more about adding nutritious ingredients rather than limiting fat, especially the ‘healthy’ fats, which more consumers now recognize as being part of a healthy diet.”

Reduce salt, but don’t reduce the taste — that’s the mantra of Barbara SALT IN MODERATION Jaques, a registered dietitian. “One of the biggest nutrition trends is to reduce salt,” emphasizes Jaques. “But, you have to reduce it in stages, because people are used to a certain salt profile.” Alternatively, ditch the salt shaker and top food with flavoured vinegars or citrus such as lemon, lime and grapefruit.

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY MARCH 2013 5 FYI

COMING Gold- EVENTS The CRFA Show, Direct Energy March 3-5: Card Centre, Exhibition Place, Toronto. Tel: (416) 923-8416; email: [email protected]; website: Service crfa.ca. Imagine recognizing a restaurant reviewer at the door, thereby ensuring a seamless dining Expo Manger Santé et Vivre experience and an A-plus online review. That March 15-17: Vert (Eat Well and Live Green Expo), Palais idea is now reality with news that a California- des Congrès, Montreal. Email: info@expo - based company recently introduced “Reviewer - mangersante.com; website: expomanger - Card,” an exclusive item for frequent restau - sante.com. rant reviewers that’s purported to guarantee premium service at restaurants, bars and other Alberta Pork Congress, France Wins March 20-21: businesses. “I understand how much a nega - Westerner Park, Red Deer, Alta. Tel: (403) tive review can impact a business,” said Brad CBanaodiacns uwerse leeft in tdhe ’duOst ornce again at 244-7821; email: info@albertapork- Newman, founder, ReviewerCard. “I’ve never the 14th biannual Bocuse d’Or culinary com - congress.com; website: albertapork - petition, held in Lyon, France in January. congress.com. given a company a bad review, because I know how awful it can be. The card serves as a France’s Thibaut Ruggeri was crowned the winner, followed by Denmark’s Jeppe Foldager notice that [the restaurant is] going to be pub - Icons & Innovators Breakfast in second place with silver and Japan’s March 28: licly graded on its service and can actually be a Series with Christiane Germain, Toronto Noriyuki Hamada in third place with bronze. Region Board of Trade, Toronto. Tel: (416) helpful reminder.” Whatever the intent, the A contingent of more than 50 Canadians 447-0888 x236; email: tinadim@kostuchme - card has been criticized as it could encourage supported Alex Chen of Moxie’s Grill & Bar, dia.com; website: kostuchmedia.com. restaurant staff to provide favours so writers who gave an inspired performance. For more pen positive reviews. on this s tory, visit foo dserviceworld.com. SAVE THE DATE

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6 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY MARCH 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM Last month, Toronto’s 39th Top Management Night Gala and Dish Celebrating Fundraiser attracted industry insid - It Out Management ers to The International Centre in NAIT culinary students Mississauga, Ont., to network, toast showed off their skills when aSwaurd cwincneers,s brseak bread and hear the success story of Cora the Edmonton school part - Tsouflidou, founder of the Quebec-based Cora restaurant chain. (l to r ) Mitch Kostuch, F&H nered with Tokyo Express The Toronto branch of the Canadian Association of Foodservice and Ward McKay, Starbucks to design new dishes for the Professionals (CAFP) hosted the night that began with two awards pre - chain’s Tetsu Chef line of sentations. To start, the Ontario Restaurant News (ORN ) Newsmaker of products. Ten chefs-in-train - the Year award was presented to Anthony Casalanguida, GM of Yorkdale Shopping Centre, for the Toronto ing were given four hours to mall’s new innovative Dine on 3 foodservice program. Next, Foodservice and Hospitality magazine’s Hans create Asian-inspired dishes Bueschkens Award of Merit was presented to Starbucks Coffee Canada in celebration of the company’s to be sold in grocery and community involvement. “We typically have so many people involved [in volunteer work] that we can’t find convenience stores through - enough work to do,” said Ward McKay, VP of Foodservice and Licensed Stores, upon accepting the award. out Alberta. Tracy Phan took Over the last year, Starbucks Coffee Canada has contributed more than $600,000 to community causes. home the prize for best Following dinner, Tsouflidou shared her business story with the crowd. “When I started in 1987, I overall dish for her orange absolutely didn’t know what I was doing,” admitted the woman who founded Cora’s as a single mother of chicken offering. “We were three. Before long the mother-turned-businesswoman caught the “entrepreneurial sickness,” building an very impressed but not at empire based on a desire to “delight” by cooking what customers wanted with a passion that remains today. all surprised by the quality With more than 130 stores under her belt, the founder offered five key drivers of success: creativity, of the recipes and the dish - focus, hard work, a dash of doubt and commitment. Following her presentation, Tsouflidou was awarded es,” said Dean Belanger, the ORN Restaurateur of the Year award, before the CAFP Food Executive of the Year award was presented Tokyo Express. to a surprised Jonathan Hughes, CFE, of HFS and Zast Foods. — Brianne Binelli

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BuoUnaZnoZtte , a Montreal supper club concept, has opened in Toronto. Helmed by executive chef Davide Ianacci , the menu fea - tures Italian cuisine such as potato gnocchi with Bolognese ragu ($21) and a Cotoletta alla Milanese 16-oz. veal chop ($37)... Fuel+ , (right ) a new health café, has opened in Toronto, featuring organic DCusetomserisg nened loAok nPo fuirzthzer a than their coffee by 23 Degrees as well as protein shakes and egg-and-dairy- trusty tablets to order pizza with Pizza free desserts from Sweets From The Earth...The new Portside Pub Pizza’s introduction of its first iPad app. in Vancouver has opened, featuring three floors, live music and 24 Diners can now order pizza, pasta and sand - craft beers on tap...A Buffalo, N.Y.-based wing chain, Anchor Bar , has debuted its first Canadian outpost in wiches for delivery or pick up. “Our mobile Hamilton, Ont. The 5,000-sq.-ft. restaurant features authentic buffalo wings (starting at $8.99), thin-crust pizza and web-based business is growing rapidly,” from a wood-fired pizza oven (starting at $11.99) as well as burgers and sandwiches...Toronto’s Pearson said Paul Goddard, CEO of the quick-serve International Airport is becoming a culinary destination with the introduction of new dining concepts such as chain. “This growth is fuelled by our com - chef Massimo Capra ’s Italian restaurants: Boccone Trattoria Veloce , a full-service concept, and Boccone Pronto , its quick-service counterpart (both in Terminal 1); A new Freshii location has also opened in Terminal mitment to provide our convenience-orient - 3...The iconic Paddlewheel restaurant, inside The Bay in downtown Winnipeg has served its last meal. This ed and tech-savvy customers with smart news comes as The Bay, which recently partnered with Compass Group and Oliver & Bonacini solutions that suit their busy lives.” The app Restaurants , re-evaluates its service offerings… Piatto Pizzeria & Enoteca in Halifax earned its Verace features a visual pizza builder, where users Pizza Napoletana (VPN) certification from the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana , a group that defends can create and modify their pizza order on and promotes authentic Neapolitan pizza across the world…It’s the end of an era in Toronto where Cowbell the screen. It also includes a restaurant loca - restaurant closed in early February after six years of offering nose-to-tail dining. tor, a favourite-order function and accepts a range of payment options, including univer - Opening a new restaurant? Let us in on the buzz. Send a high-res image, menu and background information sity meal cards. about the new establishment to [email protected] .

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( ), which houses one of the country’s Management Inc. FMI IN BRIEF franchises , , only tandoori ovens... Yogurtworld Franchising KFC Pizza Hut Taco Panera , the Master Franchisor of and restaurants, has launched a healthy, Corp. Bell Subway Bread frozen yogurt in has announced plans to open protein-rich “hidden” menu in Menchie’s Canada, has sold the rights to six new restaurants in the U.S., that includes new KFC develop and operate the Newfoundland and Labrador items such as its Power Steak Menchie’s brand in Canada to this year, according to The Lettuce Wraps, Power Chicken Alex Matthieu , chairman of the Telegram , a St. John’s, N.L.- Hummus Bowls, Napa Almond Alex Shnaider Shterenberg Saunier Toronto-based based publication... Chicken Salad Sandwiches and Midland Red River ...The has unveiled its newest Mediterranean Egg White Group Garrison District College in Fredericton is culinary school inside the Breakfast Sandwiches on a PEOPLE is the new Ale House Alex Shterenberg being rebuilt after a fire Union Bank Tower in Ciabatta bun... executive chef at the The Canadian Sheraton destroyed the property in early Winnipeg. It offers culinary at Toronto’s Restaurant and Foodservices Gateway Hotel January. Owners have turned to courses and is home to applied , the . Association British Pearson International Airport the community to raise funds research on food products. It’s He has previously worked at Columbia Hotel Association for its laid-off staff...New also the location of the student- and the , Alliance of Beverage The Westin Prince Hotel The Brunswick’s run restaurant, , which , have teamed to , and, Franchise jane’s Licensees Westin Harbour Castle introduce , a new food, most recently, as executive sous Connect drink and lodging expo. The chef at the InterContinental debut event will run from Oct. ... OBITUAR, Ythe former McDonald’s chief executive Toronto Centre Hotel Fred L. Turner 27 to 28 in Vancouver. is the new Matthieu Saunier who introduced the Happy Meal, Chicken McNugget and head chef at the Egg McMuffin to the McDonald’s menu, died Jan. 7 from Montreal until it closes for complications of pneumonia. He was 80. Snow Village the season on March 21. He is

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10 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY MARCH 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM Chefs Suppliers Hoteliers Educators Ontario Media Restaurateurs Hostelry Artisans Institute Students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Ontario Hostelry Institute 300 Adelaide Street East #339 Toronto ON M5A 1N1 Tel: 416-363-3401 Fax: 416-363-3403 www.theohi.ca FYI also the executive chef at the has achieved the of Scotsman Industries, respec - Swedish company, celebrated Tissue Group Green Seal Standard and GS-1 tively, have left the company; its 10-year anniversary of mak - InterContinental Hotel ... is the re-certification of Sanitary their responsibilities have been ing the Montreal Louis Simard Tork-brand Xpressnap new executive chef at the Paper Products for its entire absorbed by and by launching its Filippo Berti Dispensers line of and of new and Fairmont Chateau Laurier Cascades North Christa Miller Ali Group Stand Counter hotel in Ottawa. towel and tissue prod - ... napkin River North America Rich Products Xpressnap Signature ucts... , a Milan, Italy- has acquired dispensers, featuring a more Ali Group Corporation based commercial and institu - , a modern design and higher Goglanian Bakeries Inc. SUPPLisY th e SneIwD prE esi - tional foodservice equipment frozen pizza dough supplier, napkin capacity... Sam Riccio The dent of the , an company, has made personnel and , a bever - , in Riccio Group F’real Foods LLC Manitowoc Company, Inc. Oakville, Ont.-based distribu - changes following its acquisi - age provider. The company has Manitowoc, Wis., has sold its tor of refrigeration and tion of the Vernon Hills, Ill.- also entered into a joint ven - warewashing business Fagor jackson dishwashers, water fil - based . ture with to Mavea Scotsman Industries Twin Star Bakery Hoshizaki U.S.A. Holdings, ters and ranges...The and with business partner, , based in South Peachtree Montague Dave McCulloch Dave The Inc. Candiac, Que.-based , former CEO and CFO ... , a City, Ga. G Cascades Wrench Stolbun Group SCA

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FROM THE DESK OF ROBERT CARTER

FSR operators should entice customers with quality food, aD quRality IeVxperIieNnceG and aD socEial-mMediaA marNketinDg p lan

anada’s 2009 economic downturn want a better experience — the atmosphere, hit the full-service restaurant (FSR) service and look that full-service restaurants segment hard. But, now there are offer. These expectations are also the main positive signs that increases in visits to this reasons they choose FSR over QSR. large market segment may help boost the And, as the economy has improved, more Cfoodservice industry’s recovery in 2013. people have begun to treat themselves again, So far, the segment’s numbers are on the which is exactly why many visitors choose a rise. Visits were up three per cent in 2012, full-service restaurant. Reasons for visiting compared to 2011, reaching 1.66-billion FSR vary from “had a coupon” to “was running visits. But, while those statistics are encour - errands,” but the majority of the time people aging, traffic levels have not returned to 2008 want to treat their family or friends (22 per levels, when 1.76-billion visits were recorded. cent) or celebrate a special occasion (20 per To spur additional growth, operators cent). Of course, there are always those who must understand what drives consumers to don’t want to cook or clean up, accounting for FSRs. So, it may help to know that when FSR another 15 per cent of visits. customers were asked what they expect from Operators can drive traffic by focusing on taste of your most popular items; that can visits, top expectations focused on food and key reasons consumers choose FSRs. The prove more important than pricing mes - the overall dining experience. The NPD top reason is convenience (in terms of loca - sages. In fact, “menu variety” and “value for Group’s new report,“Full-Service Dining: tion); the next three drivers are food-driven, money” are ranked the same (14 per cent) in What Customers Want (4th Edition),” shows with customers expecting better-tasting NPD’s Full-Service Dining report, suggest - 77 per cent of FSR visitors expect higher food, higher-quality food and a specific ing consumers are swayed as much by menu quality food, which they can’t get from a favourite menu item. Differentiate your options as they are by the value equation. quick-service restaurant (QSR). They also restaurant by focusing on the quality and Meanwhile, as mentioned in January’s article, online marketing is becoming an important tool, so restaurateurs need to FACTORS PROMOTING FSR OCCASIONS build a social-media presence. About one- SURVEY Felt like treating myself/my family 22% third of FSR visitors continue to say they QUESTION: Special occasion with family or friends 20% rely on social media peer-to-peer recom - On your most Didn’t want to cook or clean up 15% mendations, so this is an opportunity to recent visit to cost-effectively engage fans online by a restaurant, what Was travelling/away from home 11% encouraging them to provide feedback using prompted you Was shopping, running errands 10% to go out/pur - social media tools such as Yelp, Urbanspoon Wanted something couldn’t get at home 9% chase a snack and Chowhound. The launch of the ‘Our or meal instead Had a coupon/other special promotion 7% Food. Your Questions’ McDonald’s cam - of eating at Busy evening/no time to cook 6% paign is an example of an innovative and home? (select simple strategy to engage online consumers. Wanted to go out for drinks 5% all that apply) Full-service dining’s positive visit growth Business meeting/entertaining clients 4% over the past year is exciting news for a seg - Was stuck at work late/no time to cook 2% ment that experienced declines for several Meal crisis 2% quarters. To continue on that path, drive more

Saw commercial/ad 1% visits by offering the quality food and dining experiences Canadians seek, while encourag - Some other occasion 9% ing guest to share their experience with their SOURCE: The NPD Group’s “Full-Service Dining: What Customers Want” friends on Facebook, Yelp and Twitter. G

Robert Carter is executive director, Foodservice Canada, with the NPD Group Inc. He can be reached at [email protected] for questions regarding the latest trends and their impact on the foodservice business.

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY MARCH 2013 13 WE’VE ANALYZED THIS

RESPONSIBLE Tim Hortons balances taste with nutrition aIsN it cDontinUues Lto eGvolvEe itsN menCu ofE ferings

n the surface, Tim ing the nutrition of each new Hortons doesn’t product and seeking ways to appear to offer improve popular choices. But, Ohealthy treats, but it rather than promote the changes turns out there are each time nutrient and ingredi - many healthful options at the ent levels are altered, the compa - small doughnut shop turned ny makes R&D decisions based quick-service giant. upon the functionality of the These options are no acci - ingredients and the taste; balanc - dent. In fact, the Oakville, Ont.- ing appealing new food items based company introduced with responsible eating trends. nutritional guidelines in 1999, Moreover, company execs and it’s made steady progress understand the misconception ever since, constantly consider - that it costs more money to eat

14 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY MARCH 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM nutritious food, and they’re cent), muffins (22 per cent) and making changes based on that deli meats (49 per cent). Such knowledge. “We strive to pro - changes are not taken lightly and vide quality, healthier choices at Tim Hortons’ executives work the great value people expect of closely with their suppliers to Nutrition Breakdown our brand,” says Cara Piggot, VP make modifications to improve

Research, Development and the nutritional quality without Healthy Menu Total Total Total Fat (g) Quality Assurance for Tim compromising taste and overall Suggested Combos Calories Sodium Hortons. “Our goal when refor - appeal. For example, its two deli- (mg) mulating our products has meat suppliers, Pillers and Maple (hot bever - Breakfast always been to keep prices the Leaf, have made strides in alter - age not included) same. It’s never been about ing their methods to successfully - Low-fat Vanilla 380 265 4.5 Yogurt with increasing average checks but accommodate lower salt levels. Berries about doing the right thing and At Pillers, newer proprietary - Maple Oatmeal offering something for everyone, technologies helped reduce sodi - (small) Or regardless of their dietary um without affecting taste or - Breakfast 410 720 14 restriction.” product shelf-life. Wrap with With that in mind, for the Tim’s head-office team has Egg/Cheese past five years Tims has reduced learned that if you reduce sodi - - Orange Juice the sodium in its soups (29 per um in menu items gradually, (hot beverage Lunch cent), hot beverages (15 per customers adapt to the lower not included) - Creamy 440 870 13 Chicken Rotini (small) A Sodium Comparison - Strawberry- Canada’s Heart and Stroke Foundation Health-Check system is the only pro - Banana Smoothie gram with guidelines for acceptable sodium content in individual food items. (small) And, although Tim Hortons is making strides in improving sodium levels in Or its menu offerings, and some don’t yet meet Health-Check criteria, changes - Chicken Noodle 490 1,330 11.5 continue to be made to the menu. Soup - Everything Bagel with Light Cream Suggested Healthy Tim Hortons Tim Hortons Heart & Stroke Cheese Menu Items 2007 2011 Sodium Foundation Sodium Content Health-Check Content Criteria mg/10-oz mg/10-oz mg/10-oz portion salt content. And, although the desire to take action on health, Soups portion portion company’s sodium levels are not environmental and social - Chicken Noodle 880 650 547 yet on par with the Canadian responsibility issues on the - Hearty Vegetable 1,060 590 Heart and Stroke Foundation whole. Piggot encourages food - - Italian Wedding 1,080 650 - Minestrone 940 660 Health-Check Criteria, progress service operators to get involved (These soups contain continues to be made. by taking “small steps.” less than 3 g fat) Meanwhile, as diners become It takes courage to modify the

mg/115-g mg/115-g mg/comparable increasingly aware of their spe - ingredients of a popular food Muffins portion portion size cial food needs — eliminating item, but Tim’s executives have - Raisin Bran 790 490 552 gluten and reducing sodium and been cautious and alert to cus - - Oatmeal Raisin Nut 540 430 sugar — Tims is providing easily tomer perceptions as they con -

mg/100-g mg/100-g mg/comparable accessible information via nutri - tinue to evolve recipes. Working Deli Meat portion portion weight tion calculators on its website closely with suppliers, they’re - Sliced Turkey 1,297 850 648 and through its TimmyMe free hoping to make changes that mobile app. And, as part of its will be acceptable and appreciat - N/A mg/300 g mg/comparable Hot Bowl (new) - 10-oz Creamy portion size entrée Making-a-True-Difference sus - ed by customers, offering a good Chicken Rotini 860 mg 720 g tainability initiative, Tim balance of indulgence and Hortons reps are clear about a responsibility. G

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY MARCH 2013 15 S

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BOOKS FOR COOKS

F&H PICKS

§ Alberta chefs looking for a kaleido - scope of local suppliers will find it in Foodshed: An Edible Alberta Alphabet (TouchWood). Dee Hobsbawn-Smith, an award-wining food writer, culinary edu - cator and F&H freelancer, traversed through Alberta’s lush farmland to col - lect the meat for this A-to-Z guide of producers and growers who cultivate Montreal chef Normand Laprise chats about his cookbook, everything from asparagus to zizania (wild rice). The colourful handbook ToquHé: CErea toFrs oOf a NOew QDueb eCc GaHstroAnomIy N includes 75 profiles, 26 original recipes BY BRIANNE BINELLI and discussion about issues such as animal welfare, the environment and Montreal’s Normand Laprise, grand chef Relais farm labour. At press time, this 2012 What audience were & Chateaux, knows how to showcase the heart Gourmand World Cookbook Awards you hoping to reach with winner was a contender for the of his trademark Toqué restaurant. In Toqué: this book? Creators of a New Quebec Gastronomy (Les Édi - [It’s for] everybody who likes Gourmand Best in the World award. tions du Passage) readers see the heroes of his to cook or to eat. There’s a lot kitchen don’t all work at the restaurant. of information in the book on Laprise’s 450-page tome spotlights the cooks, food itself. For example, [it shows] how to use the whole the producers and the ingredients that feed the tomato and not waste any of hotspot’s local-leaning, zero-waste “diverse gas - it. I want everybody to under - tronomic identity.” Here the chef discusses the stand how much they can book that marks Toqué’s 20th anniversary. create from one simple thing.

Why write a cookbook, and The connection between What were you hoping why now? producer and cook is at the to communicate to chefs I decided that, after 35 years § Renowned French chef Laurent centre of this book. What who read this book? of cooking and 20 years at I wanted to communicate Gras transforms traditional French makes that relationship Toqué restaurant, it would be integrity. It took us two years cooking into a modern oasis integral to success? important to leave a legacy. They are the ones who create to create this book, because for tech-savvy chefs in his ebook what we present. The relation - we wanted every picture of Laurent Gras: My Provence (Alta

N Editions). Gras’ Ratatouille, Pork Chop

A ship with producers is essen - fruits or vegetables to be taken G I How did you decide what L en Papillote and Burrata Ravioli with L tial to keeping the best quality during its true season, when U M

to include in the tome? Orange and Sage are among the 40 T

E We took two years to create produce and consistency. They the food is at its best. We didn’t

R dishes inspired by his days working A

G this book. The hardest part have so much knowledge; it is cheat. Everything you see in R as a young chef on the French Riviera. A M was to cut 400 pages and keep very important to listen to this book is truly local. For Y And, the Michelin-Star toque brings B

) P it accessible and concise. The them. The diversity of pro - chefs and food lovers outside his words to life with step-by-step O T (

Y goal was to present our phi - duce they bring to us, during of Canada, I wanted to show instructional photos and videos as H P

A losophy and everybody each season, is what stimulates them my definition of well as a forum for readers to comment R G O

T behind the food that appears our creativity. Canadian gastronomy — yes, on his recipes. O H P on our tables. we have one. G

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY MARCH 2013 17 FOOD FILE

18 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY MARCH 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM CLASSIC MEETS

CThe pOassion NCanadTian bEarbecMue APlthouOgh puriRsts lovAe traditRional Y operators have for their craft is barbecue, select chefs are emerging as discernable as the luscious with twists on the tried-and-true aroma their in-house meat BY ADRIAN BELL smokers produce. While their wood-burning pit — the heart of any true barbecue restaurant — pumps out a rich, smoky smell of slow-cooked meats, barbecue restaurateurs loudly and proudly praise the “cue.” In B.C., barbecue enthusiasts are drawn to the The restaurant-going public Memphis Blues Barbeque House, a Vancouver-based are also intrigued by traditional chain. George Siu, owner and chef of Memphis Blues, is a traditionalist and has no time for chefs who do frou-frou barbecue. “What draws cus - barbecue. “A lot of people want to mess it up,” barks the tomers to it is the idea of it pit boss whose brand produces pulled-pork sandwiches ($8.75 to $9.95), sliced beef brisket ($17.95) and barbe - being authentic,” says Aimee cued ribs ($26.95, full rack) with sides such as corn bread, Harvey, editor at Chicago-based beans and coleslaw. “People chef it up, because they believe if you don’t have a menu change within a year, Technomic, a research firm you’re not moving forward. Wrong. Some segments need serving the foodservice indus - to be left alone,” adds the chef who also has a line of Memphis Blues retail barbecue sauces. “It is what it is. We try. “People barbecue at home, want to capture the segment, and when you think south - but when they go out to eat ern barbecue, I want you to think of Memphis Blues.” But, on the other hand, fanciful southern barbecue can they want real barbecue flavour. also turn a profit. “That’s exactly what we’re trying to do,” This is actual slow cooking in says David Neinstein, co-owner and executive chef of Toronto’s Barque Smokehouse. “Our last catering job had the restaurant.” smoked-brisket tacos, pulled-duck tacos and an oyster bar with a dedicated shucker, and we served wine and cham - pagne.” He’s proud Barque events stand out from the crowd and aren’t like places where “they cook 30 racks of ribs and serve beer out of a pump-keg with red-checker tablecloths.” Neinstein’s brigade is comprised of cooking-school grads who are encouraged to flex their culinary muscles

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY MARCH 2013 19 FOOD FILE within the category. “It’s taking classic cui - sine and putting a modern twist to it,” he says, beaming. With a chit average of $40, the 65-seater abides by the sauce-on-the- side-and-nothing-to-hide philosophy, a catchphrase borrowed from Pappy’s BBQ menu in St. Louis, Mo. “The meat should speak for itself,” adds Neinstein. Creating what he calls, “a refined barbe - cue experience,” Neinstein has taken tradi - tional barbecue cuisine and added more cooking technique in a family friendly envi - THERE’S THE RUB ronment. Whether you call it refined or the In the world of the ‘cue it’s all about the better-barbecue segment, Barque’s upper- sauces and rubs that add the perfect scale position is based on a pilgrimage he blend of flavour, and every chef and food - embarked on years ago. “I travelled across service operator has their favourite the U.S. and the barbecue gulf, from blends, proprietary or otherwise. “The Houston, Texas to Salem, N.C., and I’ve base of our rubs is Lawry’s seasoned salt, chosen the best from each region, creating because it has no MSG,” explains George an amalgam, which is the Barque style. Siu, chef at the Western Canada-based There’s no regionally specific style here.” Memphis Blues barbecue chain. “But you But, Neinstein respects differing views on can make a rub out of almost anything. barbecue. “They’re protecting a trend-tested The simplest rub in Texas is 50 lbs. of salt method of cooking and a cultural way of and 50 lbs. of black pepper.” Siu’s rub is eating. But I believed the way I was going to comprised of paprika, garlic, brown sugar stand out was to push the fold a little bit,” he (for caramelization), salt, pepper, celery says. “We’ve banned macaroni and cheese salt and dry oregano. Variations are end - from our menu, we don’t do baked beans — less, with secret recipes being the goal of our closest bean dish is the equivalent of a most barbecue chefs, but chefs have pasta fagioli,” he explains. And, despite the been known to add heat to rubs with scorn of old-style barbecue fanatics, he cayenne pepper and cumin. offers — are you ready? — vegetarian food. “We always offer vegetarian options to guests. We want people to eat barbecue but

REGIONAL SHAKEDOWN Below are four American states/cities and their regional barbecue specialties.

Typically pork KANSAS : ribs accompanied by a thick MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE : Smoked meat prepared wet molasses-based sauce (with a tomato-based sauce)

 or dry (using a spice rub)

 



Emphasis on sliced TEXAS : SOUTH CAROLINA : beef brisket, usually served with Pulled meat, such as pork, a thinner, spicy sauce often topped with vinegary, on the side mustard-based sauce

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Montreal’s Blackstrap CBBUQE IfTea UtuPre: s a funky interior ( left ) and a menu that includes traditional dishes such as half chicken with coleslaw, bread and a choice of side

Clearwater Bacon Wrapped Scallops are apt to steal the show. Your kitchen staff will also find dishes that are on the lighter side.” had to order a second one. I had to double love how quick and easy they Such options include sautéed kale with our capacity, because we kept running out are to prepare, and your garlic ($5), pickled vegetables ($5), mixed of food before closing time.” With an aver - customers, well, they’ll just greens salad ($5), sage and smoked pro - age chit of $22 to $24, and three or four volone pasta ($5), caesar salad ($10) and dining-room flips on busy nights, Keir is love them. crushed potatoes ($5). “The lightness is a investing in his business. “We’ve put in a lot real factor — traditional barbecue can get of effort to make sure the food is high qual - Drop us a line to add this heavy, and it discourages repeat visitors on ity, and we’re getting a return on that.” irresistible dish to your menu. a regular basis,” he says. His rubs, which took months to perfect, But, when it comes to meat, Dylan Kier, were conceived to showcase the flavour of chef and owner of the 30-seat Blackstrap the meat first. “The pork rub took a while BBQ in Montreal, differentiated himself to create. I made six different rubs for six locally by offering the saucy bilingual city different pork butts, and I tasted them all his Memphis style dry-rub cooking ( see after they were done,” he says, describing his “Regional Shakedown p. 20” ). “Everything process. Months later, Kier narrowed it else here was very sauce-driven,” he says. down. “If I liked two particular rubs, I’d And, the innovation has paid off — he’s combine them and make a new rub and enjoying brisk business. “It got really busy, then make six variations on that. It took me really quickly,” he recalls. “We had one bar - over 120 pork butts,” he explains, recalling www.clearwater.ca becue pit, and a few weeks after opening we his treasured recipes. 905-858-9514 I [email protected]

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BToAroRnqtoU’sE B’Sa rBqIuTe E: Smokehouse entices guests with slow- cooked baby back ribs ( above ) and chicken wings in several styles

Kier’s Burnt-ends Poutine ($10) offers DID YOU KNOW? another variation on a classic dish. “I wanted Adding moisture to do something for Quebec, so we take burnt (or basting — what brisket ends, and we put them on classic pou - the French call tine. Then we make a traditional Quebec “arroser”) is a trick poutine sauce, but we use brisket drippings, so used by many it’s really intense — people are going crazy for barbecue chefs. it,” Kier says. “That’s my fusion dish: Quebec- A blend of apple Memphis fusion,” he laughs. juice, orange juice, The good news is barbecue attracts garlic powder, guests seeking comfort food, even if it is mustard powder and highly indulgent. “Diners accept that when seasoning makes a you go to a barbecue joint you’re going to terrific basting liquid eat baby back ribs, corn bread and things while smoking. The www.aepindustries.com that are filling,” says Technomic’s Harvey. acid from ingredients, 595 Coronation Dr., It’s that indulgence and the simplicity of such as fruit juice, Toronto, ON M1E 2K4 the menu that attracts foodservice folk to softens the meat Memphis Blues. “It’s funny — a lot of chefs 416-281-6000 during the slow- are drawn to this. A lot of industry people cooking process. ™ eat here and they say, ‘I’m tired of using tweezers for 12 hours to put a piece of pars -

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM

FAST FACT: According to Technomic, a Chicago-based research firm, flavour profiles from alcoholic drinks — such as whisky, bourbon, beer and other spirits — are being included in barbecue sauces.

ley on a plate. I want to sit here, get some beer and plough into brisket and ribs,’” explains Siu. But, whether the food is traditional or contemporary, the barbecue segment has its challenges, especially given high meat and poultry prices (Memphis Blues’ food cost is 38 per cent), the price of wood and the cap - ital cost of an authentic smoker ($7,000 to $30,000). And, in Vancouver, Siu grapples with cooking meat in a large vegetarian mar - ket. “People want us to offer more vegetari - an dishes, which is ridiculous because I’m not s moking a carrot,” says the owner who still brings in between $7 and $8 million annually at his six stores. “I don’t go to a veg - etarian restaurant and demand they serve me meat.” But while traditional barbecue will always remain, there’s room for further market innovation as evidenced at Barque and Blackstrap. In the future, more flavour profiles will be brought to the forefront. “We’ll start to see more of an ethnic push towards barbecue,” Technomic’s Harvey predicts. “Korean, maybe Hawaiian-style, Caribbean, and these will be accented with different flavoured sauces. Barbecue sauce is a platform in the same way mayonnaise can be, so we’ll see different flavour accents — for instance, a mango barbecue or a cherry bar - becue or chipotle-pepper barbecue sauce.” Either way, moving forward, Siu will continue to serve classic, simple barbecue. “Don’t add foie gras to it, don’t do the truf - fle-oil thing,” insists the Memphis Blues’ chef. “That’s our opinion anyway — we’re purists.” G

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM

PROFILE

he smoker is at the heart of The Stockyards Smokehouse and Larder, but the life of the wood- fired beast began long before the St. Clair West, Toronto, restau - rant opened in 2009. AN Seven years earlier, Tom Davis, the restaurant’s founder, spent months poring over equipment plans and calling manufacturers before constructing the smoker out of 12-gauge steel. Soon after, it was put to the test, smoking 450 pulled-pork sandwiches at a local APPETI TE food-and-drinks show. “I wasn’t even sure if it was going to work,” said the 40-“ish”-year-old, with a cheeky grin, “but thankfully it did.” Davis was getting a taste for F his dream of opening a barbecue restaurant, an idea that had been simmering for more than 10 years as he worked different serving and catering jobs. In 2007, he was living in Toronto’s St. Clair Avenue and Bathurst Street area, when he noticed a neighbourhood restaurant for sale and made an offer. When he was outbid, he began scouting real estate again until a year later when he received a phone call from the new owner who was selling. They made a deal. “I started crying when I saw the disgusting, dirty grease pit woos [it was] when we came here,” Davis laments. “It took about two weeks of cleaning, 20 hours a day. My friends helped, we drank Tdoinmer sD wavitihs Carolina-style a lot of beer and got it cleaned.” With scant start-up funds, the barbecue at the helm entrepreneur scoured online listings for cheap, used kitchen of Toronto’s acclaimed equipment while collecting other items such as a vintage coke machine, kitchen lights as well as cast-iron pans from a restau - rant-closing sale. “This steel griddle cost me $309 off eBay — Stockyards Smokehouse it’s $32,000 new,” he says, proudly gesturing to the discount and Larder B purchase. “It cost me $1,500 to ship it from Missouri, and we didn’t even know if it worked.” Luckily it worked, and, today, the Stockyards Smokehouse and Larder is one of Toronto’s most buzz-worthy restaurants. Local culture newspapers such as Now magazine and Post City have dubbed it “number 1 in barbecue” and the “tastiest fried chicken” in the city. And, diners are buzzing about their experi - ences at the restaurant, making it one of Yelp’s most-reviewed restaurants in the city, with 211 write-ups. It’s garnered big buzz, but the restaurant itself is tiny. With only 1,500 square feet, including the kitchen, the 18-seat resto T26 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY MARCH 2013 SUCCESSFOODSERVICEWORLD.COM  APPETI TE FOR

woos Tdoinmer sD wavitihs Carolina-style barbecue at the helm of Toronto’s acclaimed

Stockyards Smokehouse / PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRISTOPHER DEW and Larder BY jACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER SUCCESSFOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY MARCH 2013 27 PROFILE

breakfast daily, starting at 9 a.m. Diners can

Toronto’s StockyarDdsI NSmEokReh,o DuseR aInVd ELa-rIdNer rOeceRnt lyD reIVceEive?d order fresh homemade buttermilk biscuits, a celebrity visit from a man who makes his living visiting the deep-fried poached egg sandwiches and fair- country’s greasy spoons. The Food Network’s Guy Fieri, best trade, organic Reunion Island coffee; brunch known for his 1967 red Camaro, frosted hair and insatiable is served on weekends. Once evening hits, the appetite for homestyle cooking, made his way to the barbecue restaurant becomes clogged with diners wait - mecca to film an episode of Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives . Tom ing to pick up orders of fried chicken, barbe - Davis, the restaurant’s owner, said the exposure helped put his cue ribs ($26 for a whole rack), pit-smoked eatery on the map as a culinary destination. “It’s more of a chicken ($14) and gourmet sandwiches. national advertisement,” he says. The restaurant was shut down But it’s the 48-hour brined and marinated for two days while Davis, Fieri and one other employee shot the segment. Guy sampled the fried chicken; the BAT sandwich, fried chicken and wood-smoked Carolina- made with bacon, arugula, fried green tomato and lemon aioli style barbecue that attracts crowds. The catch on a sourdough bun ($9.50); and the Butter Burger, topped with is barbecue menu items are only available on bone-marrow blue cheese, red-wine butter, onion frites and Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays, since it can butter lettuce ($11). “He loved the place,” Davis boasts. take up to 18 hours to smoke brisket, pulled pork, bacon and sausages. The chicken is brined in a salt-and-sugar mixture then marinated in buttermilk and seats guests along a long wooden bar, where they can watch their spices for 24 hours. Next, the chicken is seasoned with flour and food being prepared. Davis estimates he serves 300 diners a day, fried, before being served on a cast-iron skillet with crispy shoestring bringing in $7,000 in sales on Saturdays and Sundays, the busiest fries, coleslaw and hot sauce ($14). For brunch, customers enjoy a days of the week. Eighty per cent of his business, he adds, is take-out. spin on traditional fried chicken and waffles; in this case, fried chick - en is served atop Belgian waffles and smothered with homemade Open six days a week, the Stockyards serves chili maple molasses citrus glaze ($13). GREASY GOODNESS *It’s better business. Hands down.

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SCA_FS_HosMag.indd 1 2/11/13 3:24 PM PROFILE

Burgers are another source of pride at Stockyards. A top seller innovation is the norm and consistency entices diners to return. is The Classic, a six-ounce butcher-shop custom grind made with To Davis, it’s also important to cultivate a workplace where his 50-per-cent chuck, 25-per-cent brisket and a 25-per-cent “other” team of 14 employees is free to express themselves. “No uniforms,” he undisclosed cut of beef. It’s griddle-smashed and topped with emphasizes. “We let our personality shine through. You want your butter lettuce, house mayo, ketchup, pickles and onions ($7). employees to take ownership, and we try to instill that in them.” Another popular burger is the Beast Style, which Davis describes Self-expression is especially important to Davis who has spent the as his version of the Animal-Style burger from American chain last 20 years exploring his heritage. “I’m from a mixed-race back - In-N-Out; it includes two mustard-seared beef patties, served ground, and I’m adopted,” he says. “We’re not sure if I am a with secret sauce, caramelized onions and American-style smoked Jamaican-Canadian or Nova Scotian-Canadian or an American- cheese ($14). Black-Canadian mixture. Part of this whole thing is my journey, One of the few items Davis is content to outsource is buns, which finding out where I come from culturally and ethnically through are from Dempster’s. He explains: “You want a white store-bought food,” he explains. So, that’s why his evolving menu, which changes squishy [bun] for a classic burger,” because artisanal buns take the on a whim, has featured a selection of down-south barbecue and focus away from the meat. even Nova Scotian cod cakes. His staff also blends homemade drinks such as limeade, made Reflecting on the past four years in business, Davis is proud, but with mint, fresh lime juice, sugar and water or iced tea, made with he has new insight about past decisions. “If I could do it again, I earl grey tea, ginger, sugar, water, lemon and classic fresh-squeezed would simplify the menu by half,” he says. In the meantime, he’s itch - orange juice. ing to open an express version of the Stockyards that’s run by three or four employees and offers a menu of fried chicken and burgers. Davis, who has experience in high-end dining, describes The restaurant’s fame has been a pleasant surprise for the man NO FRILLS the style of his restaurant as barnyard chic. “I didn’t like the stuffiness. who started making his own luck the day he built his own smoker. “I People want to come out and have good food,” the restaurant owner honestly thought it was going to have four employees [and make] observes. So, the Stockyards delivers traditional comfort food, with a $1,000 a day,” he admits. “It’s gone tenfold on that. You just can’t con - mom-and-pop dining experience — where fresh ingredients reign, ceive what’s going to happen.” G

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LABOUR

RECOVERING THE F

Find out how to attract and retain millennials and baby boomers as the pool of available workers shrinks

BY LIZ CAMPBELL ILLUSTRATION BY KATY LEMAY A

here was a time when prospective employees went, cap in hand, to the back door of a restaurant to ask for work. But times have changed. A serious shortfall of SHORTstaff in some parts of Canada — notably Calgary and Vancouver — is an issue, and, according to the Canadian Restaurant and Foodservices Association (CRFA), by 2015, some 35,000 staff positions will remain unfilled across the country. L Today, the front door is wide open to new employ - ees. Check out the websites of chains such as Milestones Grill + Bar, Earls Kitchen & Bar, Moxie’s Grill & Bar and more, and you’ll find funky, interactive employ - ment pages, extolling the virtues of working with the company in question. They’re trying to attract the

brightest and the best young people. L Most of those young people belong to the generation known as the millennials (young adults born between T approximately 1976 and 1992), and they have often been given a bad rap by employers — a sense of entitlement, unreasonable expectations and even laziness has been ascribed to this generation. But Jackie Ross of Toronto- based JRoss Hospitality Recruiters, with offices in Vancouver, Calgary and Montreal, dis - agrees. “This is a highly educated, hard-working generation, but they have lots of options and ideas,” she suggests. “They have to be managed differently than previous generations. They expect to be treated well and fairly and given opportunities to grow.” Peter Oliver, who conducts the new employee orientation at Oliver & Bonacini Restaurants, believes millennials are one of the most enthusiastic groups ever if they are properly motivated. “I joke with them about how soft they are compared to my genera - tion,” he says. “But they just have different expectations. And they are skeptical; you have to prove you deserve their commitment and trust.”

FINDING THEM Getting your message out to those bright young people has never been easier. Social media, such as Twitter and Facebook, provides an easy and effective message board. “We

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY MARCH 2013 33 LABOUR

Traditionally, restaurant websites LABOUR BREAKDOWN offered a list of employment opportuni - Projected number of restaurant jobs that will go unﬁlled in Canada ties, but, today, they offer a cool lifestyle with the hot buttons for millennials SHORTAGES BY YEAR effectively pressed. Calgary-based 2015 SHORTAGES BY OCCUPATION - 2030 Moxie’s operates 63 restaurants across 34,802 Food counter Canada; their web message to potential attendants and employees is clear: Earn, Enjoy, Excel. kitchen helpers 42,690 2020 The chain offers flexible work schedules, 76,498 Food and beverage competitive income and benefits as well servers 38,782 as opportunities to grow in “a friendly, 2025 supportive environment.” It’s the whole 107,477 Cooks 20,536 package and it appeals to the younger generation. 2030 Bartenders Indeed, Oliver offers a cogent insight 136,719 8,738 about millennials. “We all need a sense of belonging. Their families may not be as SOURCE: “The Future of Canada’s Tourism Sector,” Canadian Tourism Human Resource Council tightly knit as those of previous genera - are fortunate in that the quantity of applicants is plentiful as people gen - tions, and they probably don’t go to church, so there aren’t many uinely want to be a part of our iconic brand,” says Stephanie Hardman, other outlets for this sense of belonging. A good company can play a VP of Organizational Development and Team Tim Hortons. “We have significant role in providing this,” he says. also found LinkedIn to be an invaluable tool to expand our networks Many restaurants are trying to be that company. In a Milestones web - and connect with the ‘passive candidate.’ Our Talent Acquisition team site video, one after another, young employees relate their experience and alone has a combined network of more than 1,600 connections.” reiterate the “great-work-environment” message. One chef echoes Peter POLAND tastes good

The best from Poland

dairy products, cheese chocolate, pastries, biscuits processed meats fruit and vegetable juices, breads, pastas vodka, cider, beer, fruit wines Visit Polish stands and get familiar with the potential of Polish products at the fair trade SIAL in Toronto between 30th of April and 2nd of May 2013. We also invite you to visit the stand of Polish Ministry of Economy.

At the same time also participate in: • Matchmaking meetings with Polish companies • Trade conference with the participation of experts

FOR MORE INFORMATION Donata Paszkiewicz Bartosz Dembiński PLEASE CONTACT US: Tel. +48 869 2126 Tel. +48 869 2462 E-mail: E-mail: [email protected] [email protected]

2013_bpp_food_206x276+7mmSPAD_Foodservice.pdf 1 13-02-11 9:12 AM Dare_HV.pdf 2/12/13 2:20:17 PM

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LABOUR

FOREIGN SERVICE 4- Six years ago, Gerard Curran, proprietor of the James Joyce Irish Pub in 0NOODC Calgary, took action as the labour shortage took its toll on his operation. “We spent money advertising for staff, and we’d get people who didn’t want to

""1NQ#GDCC@Q&K@UNTQ work at night,” he says. “We hired retirees part time, and we reached out to

native people, handicapped people, anyone who wanted to work.” With 10

kitchen staff positions to fill each shift and a menu based on fresh ingredi -

ents, the problem was critical. So, Curran applied to The Temporary Foreign

Worker Program. His first hires came from the Philippines. After reviewing

their résumés and interviewing them via Skype, he paid to fly them to

Canada. He bought a house for them to live and appropriate clothes for

Calgary’s winter; he introduced them to a local church community and bought

them bus tickets. And he trained them in his kitchen. “They spoke pretty good English, but you need to spend at least two months working with them with recipes and techniques,” he explains. “Most of them have experience of some kind and are willing to work, but they need to learn what a lamb burger

C with pistachios is.” Recently, he’s brought Thai workers in as well. They are

M highly experienced, having graduated and worked in the industry in several

Y countries. And, he adds, “They have a strong work ethic and are willing to multi-task.” Curran has crunched the numbers. He pays Chemistry Consult- CM ing in Victoria, B.C., to do the legwork locating staff overseas ($2,500 to MY $5,000). He pays for flights and initial training, and the government deter - CY mines pay based on typical wages in the area. “Over a two-year period, I cal - CMY culate you’re paying an additional $2 per hour for foreign workers,” he says. K “But if we didn’t have this program, I’d be dead in the water.”

Oliver’s comment: “When I started here, I didn’t get 100 new co-workers, I got 100 new family and friends.” You’ll find the same message at the web career centre of Seattle-based Starbucks, which was recently named one of the Top 50 Employers by Fortune magazine. It reads: “It’s a lot like working with friends. For one thing, the people who work here aren’t ‘employees’ — we’re ‘partners,’ because we passionately share common goals and mutual success.” “In Canada, there is significant competition for quality talent. As a result, a company really needs to differentiate its employment brand,” affirms Kristen MacLellan, national recruitment manager, Starbucks Canada. “While compensation and benefits will always demand attention, we use our partners’ stories about their Starbucks experience and personal career journey to create a culture of recruit - ,HUD$DKHBHNTRKX,HUD$DKHBHNTRKX ment. It’s through storytelling that we share the Starbucks difference BVSU]]R\Saa]Tac^SÙÒW\aBVSU]]R\Saa]Tac^SÙÒW\a and let potential partners know they can become their personal best, W\QZcRW\UW\QZcRW\U_cW\]Oa^SZbO\RO[OÒ\bV_cW\]Oa^SZbO\RO[OÒ\bV be connected to something bigger, be meaningful (to the world) and be recognized for it at Starbucks.” /W/W`^]^^SReWbVVSObO\R^`Saac`S`^]^^SReWbVVSObO\R^`Saac`S Earls, a chain of 65 restaurants in Canada and the U.S., has taken it a T]`T ObVW\O\RQ`Wa^gbSfbc`SbVW RQ W b bc step further, designing a website to attract staff at earlswantsyou.com. 0WbSaWhSRO\R\ObcÒZZg aSOa]\SR Here, fast-paced videos show ‘partners’ working hard and loving every T]àObWaTgW\Ua\OQYW\U minute of it. But, Danielle Wong, senior human resource generalist with Earls, says its most successful recruiting method is through existing 1OZZ('#!$! !$]` &$$##& % 4]ÒZWab]T]c`4]]R0`]YSà]`T]`[]`SW\T]`[ObW]\ FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM ^ZSOaSdWaWbcaObeeeRO`ST]]RaQ][ LABOUR

employee referrals. “Happy partners want to promote their employer to their friends and ... we provide an environment where people can grow and develop and that is lively and soulful.” Tim Hortons has developed relationships with highly regarded post- secondary institutions for entry-level and co-op placements. And they, too, turn to their staff for help. “Our referral program represents about 20 per cent of the annual number of hires as a source,” says Hardman. “This program provides for a significant dollar bonus and recognition with each hired referral. Referrals tend to be our greatest source to hire talent in the functional areas of Operations and Distribution.” And, when they find a good potential candidate, the company READY TO DRINK doesn’t waste time. “Another challenge is that the market for top tal - PRE-BLENDED SMOOTHIES ent is very fast-paced,” Hardman adds. “We now find candidates are often seriously entertaining a number of interviews and/or offers at a time, even while we are conducting references. Our solution is to NO SUGAR ADDED maintain ongoing conversations with the candidates and to move quickly, but with quality and sound processes.” AND NO PRESERVATIVES

KEEPING THEM Having found bright staff, the challenge is to keep them engaged and loyal. Phil Wylie, director of Talent Management at Oliver & Bonacini, suggests that giving them opportunities to learn and grow 120 days into newer, more responsible roles is an important element in job refrigerated satisfaction. “We provide a framework for a career development plan shelf life for those who are interested. And we treat management staff as own - ers of the restaurant,” he says. “They get exposure to the numbers and challenges of the business without the risk.” Earls tells a similar story. “We have created a learning environment where partners are given the opportunity to develop in all areas of the business. This gives them the chance to grow with Earls into more and more senior roles,” says Wong. “We have incredible track records of suc - cess with growing our partners from the front line up to management. Our VP of Operations started in the ‘New Recruit Area’ of our kitchens washing dishes, and his story is the rule at Earls, not the exception.” This approach gets thumbs up from Wendy Swedlove, president of the Canadian Tourism Human Resources Council (CTHRC), who points out that employers need to understand what their target demographic is seeking. “It might not always be money. It could be flexible work hours and schedules, benefits and a chance to advance,” she explains. “Studies have shown that some of the same things that attract employees also help to retain them — great supervisors, pro - fessional development and recognition.” For many, this is their first job; one in five young people, aged 15 to 24, works in foodservice, and it’s the number-1 first employer. And, though they may ultimately have other career plans, having spent the time and energy to train them, you want to try to retain good staff. They need reasons to stick around. “Successful recruitment and reten - tion of younger workers often involves innovative approaches that go beyond wage incentives,” says JRoss’ Ross. “It requires businesses to adjust their management styles to accommodate the needs and expec - tations of young workers, which typically include schedule flexibility and other non-traditional benefits such as product rewards, retention bonuses or providing staff with gym memberships.” Another part of the labour solution is increased productivity through

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM LABOUR

RETENTION TIPS JRoss Hospitality Recruitment, with offices across Canada, offers these tips for better engagement and retention of employees — particularly millennials: • Create less hierarchal environments: They need to feel like they are con - nected to decision-making. They generally live in homes that involve them in decisions, and they expect the same from work. 2 NEW • Treat them like they matter: If you consider them to be transient in your DELICIOUS AND business, they will behave that way. While their costs may be lower than older employees on a per-hour basis, they will require more training, per - ENRICH FLAVOURS formance management and follow-up then a long-tenured employee. • Thank them: This should be the case with all employees. It will show that READY TO DRINK PRE-BLENDED you appreciate them for who they are and what they bring to the business. SMOOTHIES, NO SUGAR ADDED • Reward great performance: Create incentives for selling skills and AND NO PRESERVATIVES upselling opportunities or customer-service initiatives. Feature employees of the month or acknowledge stellar performance in a public way. • Offer training opportunities: Since they are likely to be starting out in their career, provide internal and external training opportunities. For example, Rich blend of purées and fruit train servers on food and wine pairings. juices with coconut water

technological innovation and increased training and professional devel - opment in areas such as leadership, administration, legislation and 120 days refrigerated human-resources management. The CTHRC’s emerit t raining and cer - shelf life tification programs are developed with input directly from people work - ing in the occupations in question. They promote a level of quality and can give employees a sense of pride in their professions. And assisting employees to become certified can be a good retention strategy. Of course, not all potential employees are millennials and, increas - ingly, the challenges of the marketplace are creating a new synergy. For example, retiring boomers without adequate pensions are returning to the workforce. For this group, too, flexible work schedules may be the key to success. Gerard Curran, past chairman and current CRFA Board member who owns the James Joyce pub in Calgary, can attest to these changes. Labour shortages have forced him to turn to senior workers for help. “We have one elderly lady who works really hard doing prep four days a week. She’ll suddenly say she’s tired and goes home,” he laughs. “She works her own hours, and we’re happy to have her.” Immigrants are also in demand. Perceived as having a strong work ethic and enthusiasm for the job, they may begin with poor language skills. That’s why Oliver & Bonacini has translated training materials into languages, such as Tamil, to help new foreign-speaking staff adjust and learn quickly. And the company assists those who want to progress by reimbursing them half of the tuition for ESL classes. And, although change is underway in restaurants across the coun - Rich blend of purées and try, human resources issues will only morph with the shifting fruit juices with yogurt Canadian demographics. “The foodservice industry has always held and ground cereal a mirror up to society and been a bellwether for how the economy is doing,” says Garth Whyte, president and CEO, CRFA. “This industry is the fourth-largest employer in Canada, and filling those jobs with good people will continue to be a challenge.” G

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM EqUIPMENT

COOKING Labour-saving equipment is budget-friendly, eBspeYcial lyN for lUargeM-voluBme aEnd RinstiStutio nal foodservice operations

BY DENISE DEVEAU

KTIThCe HAEltNo- ShTaAaRm : combitherm reduces labour and energy output

oodservice opera - invest in labour-saving it succinctly when he says: sultants in Mississauga, can pass on costs to cus - tors work in a equipment. “You don’t have nearly as Ont. “The other is food tomers, that’s not the world where budg - Whether cooking with much turnover on your and beverage costs, case for quick-service or ets are getting tighter, multi-purpose ovens or equipment.” which can run from 23 other high-volume estab - margins are getting thin - countertop appliances, the Labour is one of the to 30 per cent of sales. In lishments. “They can’t Fner and trained staff are right equipment can make two major cost-control an ideal world, you want achieve the price points getting harder to keep — culinary teams efficient expenses in a restaurant, those numbers combined to pay for added labour or even find ( see labour while keeping the head accounting for 28 to 31 to be below 60 per cent. costs,” Jackson notes. story on p. 32 ). For many, count in check. Tawfik per cent of sales, explains The problem is the cost He believes the biggest one of the best ways to Shehata, executive chef at Shawn Jackson, COO of labour is going up.” efficiency game-changer maintain stability and cost the International Centre and founder of Crush While small and fine- is combi-ovens. “I’d say savings in the kitchen is to in Mississauga, Ont., puts Strategy foodservice con - dining establishments they would be the first,

HCeOalthLcDare CfooOdsMervFicOe oRpeTra tors are constantly improving day-to-day efficiencies, says Heather Fletcher, manager of Foodservices for St. Michael’s Hospital in Toronto. To that end, a few years ago the institution switched to a cold-plating system for its patient meals, a move that initially reduced labour requirements for tray preparation by 25 to 30 per cent. Unlike traditional tray assembly that’s completed three times a day, cold-plating allows hos - pitals to complete the job for all meals in the first shift. In St. Michael’s case, that amounts to approximately 380 trays per meal, per day. Up to 30 trays are inserted into a special refrigerat - ed unit with a divider wall in the middle. At mealtime, the refrigeration is turned off on one side, and a convection heater is activated to slowly bring the food to serving temperature. Each Burlodge unit costs between $16,000 and $20,000 and generates payback within two years through labour savings. Fletcher is also generating savings by changing the tray-line model to a pod system based on Lean principles made famous by Toyota. “I was visiting a hospital in Florida and saw all sorts of opportunities for efficiencies.” Now tray assembly is down to four staff members from six, who work in pairs retrieving products from ergonomically placed gravity shelves and tables to avoid strain. The approach also means staff is more engaged in the process and there is a greater degree of control over accuracy and accounta - bility, Fletcher notes. “We were able to make it as smooth an assembly as possible. And if there’s a delay on one side, the whole process doesn’t come to a stop,” she says.

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©2013 Ecolab USA Inc. All rights reserved. The new SefCook ngCente wh teff c ency EqUIPMENT Effcency meets cun y Up to 300 TtraIMysE aSreA VaEssRe:m bled in the cold assembly line, before deht being transferred — via a rack, which holds 24 trays — to re-therm equipment

ing. “Sous vide is a really good way to minimize your labour, because you can do the focused, preparation work when you’re not under pres - sure and then execute in most dynamic pieces of on things. Once it’s pro - a rush.” equipment that assist in grammed, you don’t Another “fantastic terms of consistency and have to worry about it asset” for Shehata is the labour controls. That’s shutting off or forgetting two large capacity cook- because they can be a anything.” and-hold ovens. These convection oven, a While combi-ovens very low temperature steamer; they can even may cost $60,000 a unit, cabinets are used to do frying. A lot of estab - the labour savings more slow-roast large cuts of lishments are really tak - than make up for the meat at 225°F to 250°F ® ing a look at them now.” cost, he adds. “It also over the course of 12 The patented HiDensityControl – For the International saves a lot of things from hours. “It’s simple for redefining cooking quality Centre’s Shehata, combi- spoiling, because they the team. You put the more ovens are one of the cook consistently no meat in, insert a probe Up to capacity* main reasons he can matter how large the to monitor the internal 3 0 % operate with a mere five volumes. We can always temperature and set the less energy full-time kitchen staff, rely on that equipment.” timer.” Once it reaches Up to 70 % consumption* along with a roster of Darren Brown, execu - the desired temperature, part-timers who come in tive chef at the Fairmont the oven automatically faster for events. The Centre Pacific Rim in Vancouver, reverts to a holding tem - Up to 30 % cooking* has invested $2 million also enjoys using a combi- perature of 160°F until in improvements and oven. “It allows us to do it’s time to serve. efficiencies for its centralized production for And, once the cook - The new p tented HDenstyConto kitchen equipment, all our restaurants and ing is complete, the blast u ntees outst ndn cookn qu ty including four combi- makes us much more effi - chiller is a useful tool, nd pefom nce th nks to mnm esouce ovens, one of which can cient. What the ovens too. At the International consumpton. be used as a smoker, plus bring is precision, control Centre, it helps that the You c n pep e n unbeev be ne of one in a satellite kitchen. and flexibility. With the Alto-Shaam combi-oven, dshes usn ony one pece of equpment. “We couldn’t manage [Rational] Whitefficiency chiller and cook-and- The evouton y conto concept s so without them. They are model, I can load a rack hold equipment is stan - smpe to ope te. Th t’s whteffcency! very, very efficient from of eggs on the top shelf, dardized. “That means both an energy and bacon in the middle and we can take a rolling Reg ste today to attend a RATONAL staffing standpoint,” toast on the bottom, and rack out of the Cook ngL ve event n you aea at Shehata notes. it will cook all three at dif - Combitherm and roll it www.at ona-on ne.ca o by ca ng “Whenever they’re used, ferent temperatures at the into the blast chiller,” --RATONAL (-). they are on timers, so same time.” Shehata explains. you don’t have to keep The Fairmont chef Labour-saving tech - * Comp ed to t dton ktchen wthout comb-ste me. coming back and open - also uses the Rational nology is so integral to ing the doors to check units for sous-vide cook - foodservice these days

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that the new School of enough people for that mizing a kitchen layout Hospitality and Culinary sector,” says Gill. “That’s and design is integral to Arts at Red River why some of the newer minimizing labour. “You College in Winnipeg is equipment is a necessity, have to make sure every - ensuring its students are because it allows you to thing is accessible to your well-trained on combi- be more efficient with staff, so you can expedite ovens and induction your use of labour while the process of putting units. “Induction cook - taking out a lot of the meals out while utilizing a ing is becoming increas - guesswork.” smaller line,” Jackson adds. VENDOR INFORMATION ingly popular in the Labour savings can In the end, it pays to Check the cheatsheet below for names and coordinates industry,” notes Jeff Gill, also be found in counter - do your homework, says of a handful of vendors who sell labour-saving equipment. acting chair of top mainstays such as the Crush consultant. (alto-shaam.ca) Hospitality. “We also food processors and “Some of these pieces of Alto-Shaam Canada (rationalcanada.com) have a number of blenders, notes Jackson. equipment are expensive, Rational (clevelandrange.com) Rational combi-ovens in “The savings can be sub - so you need to know Cleveland (turbochef.com) our nine cooking labs.” stantial if you don’t have what setups work best. It TurboChef (garlandcanada.ca) Knowledge of labour- to have someone chop - doesn’t always have to be Garland Canada (burlodgeca.com) saving equipment is des - ping for two hours. All the largest or smallest. Burlodge (chesher.com) perately needed in an of that prep work can Your footprint and layout Chesher industry suffering from be done in a minimal however must be pretty For a complete supplier’s list, check constant labour short - time frame.” precise to assist with the the Buyer’s Guide at . foodserviceworld.com ages. “We can’t produce And, of course, opti - labour process.” G

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42 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY MARCH 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM POURING FOR PROFITS

The real-fruit smoothie craze has taken off aSs thMe beOtter-fOor-yoTu bHlendIs Eapp eaWl to aA ranRge S of customer needs in multiple dayparts

BY jACKIE SLOAT -SPENCER

veryone is jumping on biggest consumers of fruit and the smoothie train, but fruit juice in the world, and they when it comes to serving are very adventurous in terms of these trendy fruit blends, QSR what fruit they like, so it allows restaurants reign supreme, offer - us to meet that need,” says Eing 75 per cent of all smoothie Parks, of its current roster that servings in the market, accord - includes Mango-Pineapple, ing to NPD Group research. Strawberry-Banana and These better-for-you blends are Blueberry-Pomegranate hotter than ever, with servings flavours. “Ten years ago pome - cleaner ingredients,” says Pat choice. “Every smoothie is made doubling in growth, compared granate wasn’t mainstream, but Cornacchia, director of Culinary with a full serving of fruit in to two years ago; and the cool it is today,” says Parks, adding at Williams Fresh Café, which every cup, offering quality and beverages are gaining an assort - superfruits such as açai and gogi offers smoothies made with value,” says Dave McKay, VP ment of fans, from children to berry are also gaining populari - fresh or frozen fruit. “We’re Marketing, Beverages, Tim mature adults. ty. But, despite budding interest using honey, versus sugar; we’re Hortons. Powdered, syrup-based in flavours such as pomegranate, using agave, coconut water and But, with many new smooth - blends are passé; and QSRs are pineapple and mango, most organic yogurt. That was our ies introduced in the past few now offering a variety of real- operators agree, strawberry- point of difference,” he says. years, operators are looking for fruit concoctions to appeal to banana is the most popular “Unlike everyone else, and, I’m new ways to attract customers, the customer’s palate. When it flavour of the day. not going to mention names, offering $1-limited-time promo - comes to choosing flavours, But, creating a popular they are using high-sugar syrups tions, or handing out samples smoothie buyers are looking for smoothie isn’t just about choos - to make their smoothies, and we from food trucks in select mar - a sense of adventure, says Anne ing the best flavour. The rise of chose to go the other route kets. In the U.S., Burger King Parks, director of Menu an increasingly health-conscious where we are using all-natural- launched a national advertising Management for McDonald’s, consumer is leading restaurant as-possible ingredients.” campaign that shows celebrities which launched its McCafé Real operators to tout nutritional Other chains are using such as David Beckham order - Fruit Smoothies in March 2012. benefits and organic ingredients, Canada’s Food Guide to market ing the chain’s new strawberry- “Canadians are one of the too. “People are looking for themselves as a healthy snack banana fruit smoothie. Across the board, no matter GREEN MACHINE what the occasion, the smoothie For some chains, selling smoothies as meal replacements is a bona fide trend worth fol - offers versatility, which appeals to lowing. Booster Juice has dominated the smoothie market for years, and now other quick- a number of age groups and peo - service, fast-casual and full-service restaurants are catching on. The limited-time offer ple who are motivated by differ - Green Machine smoothie at Williams Fresh Café is made with fresh baby spinach, avoca - ent reasons to purchase smooth - do, coconut water, kale and organic blue agave. “We [offered] that in the summertime as a feature, and I was surprised how well it did, to the point where some of the locations are ies. McDonald’s Parks sums it up: still serving it and doing fairly well,” says Pat Cornacchia, director of Culinary at Williams “A beverage can be an indulgent Fresh Café, which has locations throughout southern Ontario. Other flavours include treat, it can be a snack in the Peanut Butter Banana Boost, made with fresh banana and organic yogurt blended with afternoon, a quick pick me up — peanut butter, soy milk, cocoa and GoLean crunch cereal or the Avocado Banana it could also be a meal. It’s about Smoothie, made with fresh avocado and banana blended with coconut water, skim milk, having a product that meets all organic yogurt and honey. those different needs at all those different times.” G

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STANDING Lee Cooper scaled the ranks of top fAine-PdiniAng reRstauT rants to create his own niche at L’Abattoir in Vancouver

BY BRIANNE BINELLI

ee Cooper had his start at A&W. But helping his dad at franchise I felt that it was something I could do,” he says. “Before we opened it had locations wasn’t necessarily his childhood dream, it was his fate. been 12 years of working in some pretty good kitchens with some pret - “I didn’t get an allowance; I had to work for it,” the chef con - ty good chefs; I picked up the best parts of each one of them.” fesses with a laugh. “I was about 11 when I started doing menial tasks Of course, convincing his partners to call the restaurant “The in the restaurant.” And, he’s never left the restaurant scene since. Slaughterhouse,” the English translation of the French word L’Abattoir, LTransitioning from high school to a cook training program at was challenging. But they warmed to the idea after learning the 19th- Malaspina College (now Vancouver Island University) in Nanaimo, century building was rumoured to have housed Vancouver’s first jail B.C., was a natural progression for the 17-year-old. and may sit in the old Vancouver butchery and meat-packing district. After graduating in the late ’90s, the chef beefed up his résumé The “badass” name hasn’t deterred diners at the 70-seat restaurant, working with his uncle Bernard Casavant at Chef Bernard’s Café in where approximately 100 to 140 meals are served a night. Whistler and at Rod Butters’ Fresco in Kelowna, B.C., before landing But ask the 34-year-old chef partner at the rustic building what a job at Heston Blumenthal’s renowned Fat Duck in Berkshire, inspires the work that wins rapt attention from media and foodies England. “I badgered the shit out of them until they said: ‘ok, come in alike, and he stops short. “It’s about making money first and fore - for a work trial.’ Then I worked for two days, and I busted my ass as most,” he says frankly. “It sounds cold and like I don’t care, but, at the hard as I could, got the job,” he recalls. “I learned what hard work in a end of the day, if you don’t make money there’s no restaurant.” He top-end kitchen is like. Until you’ve done it, you can’t really wrap your adds: “It’s a business first, and then you can satisfy your ego and what - head around it. And it’s hard, but it’s fun.” ever your beliefs are after that.” P H Back home in Canada, after his one-year work visa expired, the Those beliefs loosely translate to an evolving menu based on fresh, O T O G toque’s run at top-end restaurants continued; he worked at Scott seasonal ingredients cooked with an adherence — albeit not strict — R A P H

Jaeger’s kitchen at The Peartree Restaurant in Burnaby, B.C., and as to French technique. Menu favourites include pan-fried veal sweet - Y

B Y

part of the opening team at Market by Jean-Georges in Vancouver. breads on toast ($14), warm steelhead and crunchy potato salad ($15) A N G

In the meantime, Cooper planned the launch of his own restaurant, and pork shoulder cooked in milk ($26). E L A

which became a reality in 2010, when he joined with friends Paul And, it’s in the kitchen you’ll find Cooper. It’s evident the executive A M Grunberg (GM) and Nin Rai to open L’Abattoir. “It got to a point where chef who’s not personally “executive in any way,” is enjoying the ride. G A

BITS & BITES What’s your What’s your f“aAv Kounrizt es ptooooln? , favourite culinary because I constantly d“Leysotnin, aFtriaonnc? e”  use it.” 

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PROOF #: f02

CLIENT: Kraft Foodservice ACC. MGR: Lila PROD. MGR: Nikki f10981 FOLDER NAME: ...81 Kraft_Genesis Trade Ads:f02_10981_Kraft_Genesis_FSandH_TradeAd.indd THIS ARTWORK HAS FILE NAME: f02_10981_Kraft_Genesis_FSandH_TradeAd.indd BEEN CREATED AT 100% OF ACTUAL SIZE. START DATE: 2-6-2013 12:42 PM ART DIRECTOR:Kevin ARTIST: Bryan Hi-Res PDF TRIM: 8.125” x 10.875” LIVE: 7.625” x 10.375” REV. DATE: 2-12-2013 4:20 PM ARTIST: Jason BLEED: 8.625” x 11.375” PREP TO DISK #: 1 DATE: 2-12-2013 4:20 PM PREP ARTIST: Jason THIS LASER PROOF HAS Cyan C&F #: BEEN SCALED TO None Magenta None TO FIT IN THE PAGE. Yellow Black