The Best Hiking in British Columbia

Home , Garibaldi Lake, Kettle Valley Railway, Kinney Lake, Lost Lake (Whistler)

British Columbia is a very large province, larger than California, Oregon, and Washington State all put together. Most of it is wild and remote. Hiking opportunities abound. From urban-backyard hikes in Vancouver to ferry-accessed trail heads on the far Northwest, there is a lot of territory to explore on the coast. Further inland, there are hundreds and hundreds of kilometers of high mountains calling trekkers and nature-lovers. Whether you want a leisurely stroll in a lush forest or a challenging full-day high-mountain hike, you’ll find lots of options in “Beautiful BC.” In this chap- ter, we highlight the best of all that BC has to offer—the best trails for kids, the best challenging hikes, best hikes for scenery, and even the best mountain lodges. So, read on and start planning!

1 THE BEST HIKES FOR FAMILIES

• Kinney Lake (Mt. Robson Provincial Lake River merge with the Fraser River Park): This gentle mountain ramble is is a lesson in the geography and history many families’ introduction to the joys of British Columbia. See p. 158. of hiking in the Rockies. Kinney Lake, • Lighthouse Park (North Vancouver): in the shadow of the Canadian Rockies’ Who doesn’t find lighthouses magical? highest peak, makes a great picnic spot. At Vancouver’s doorstep, this large park See p. 237. has a lush forest and a truly picture- • Lost Lake Nature Trail (Whistler): perfect well-preserved lighthouse. Great Even with Whistler’s notoriously radical picnic spot! See p. 36. mountain bikers whizzing by, this is a • Stawamus Chief (Squamish): Most calm, easy hike that leads out from the people hike the monolithic “Chief” via heart of Whistler Village. See p. 138. the South Peak. Our version also goes • Williams Lake River Valley Trail (Wil- past Shannon Falls, but then it goes liams Lake): Kids will love all the north to a quieter, higher, and more bridges here. There’s also a beaver dam technical trail. This is an appropriate and lots COPYRIGHTEDof fish! Watching the Williams hike MATERIAL for experienced teens. See p. 132. 2 THE BEST EASY HIKES

• Kettle Valley Railway (Penticton to • Smuggler Cove Provincial Park (Sun- 1 Naramata): A 10km (6 /4-mile) leisurely shine Coast): A classic West Coast half- hike that heads out of suburbia along a hour ramble, this is the Sunshine Coast historic trestle bridge and ends at a gor- at its best. If you like birding, swim- geous winery. Cheers! See p. 196. ming, forests, pirates, and cool breezes, you’ll like it here. See p. 64.

004_159903-ch01.indd4_159903-ch01.indd 1 33/6/09/6/09 11:22:2511:22:25 PPMM 2 • Pacific Spirit Park (Vancouver): If • Emerald Lake (Yoho National Park): you’ve got 2 hours to spare in down- This is not your average walk in a park. town Vancouver, take a bus out to the Flat, scenic, and circling around a jewel- coastal forests behind UBC and see how like lake, there are interpretive signs in simply the city turns wild here. See front, avalanches above, wildflowers p. 52. below, and a great bistro at the end. See • High Note via Half Note Trail (Whis- p. 228. tler): Don’t like hiking up but want to • Big Cedar Trail, Meares Island take in the mountain air? Take the (Tofino): Paddle a kayak from Tofino to Whistler Village Gondola and the Peak this amazing corner of Clayoquot Chair to the top of the ski resort. See Sound to see 2,000-year-old giant cedar p. 143. trees. A true treasure for humankind. See p. 113.

3 THE BEST MODERATE HIKES

• St. Mark’s Summit (Cypress Provincial into an alpine region dotted with tur- Park): Just a bit longer than a half-day quoise lakes. See p. 239.

THE BEST HIKING IN BRITISH COLUMBIA BRITISH IN HIKING BEST THE hike, this is a shorter version of the • Mount Daniel (Sechelt): There aren’t renowned Howe Crest Sound Trail, and many hikes in this book that take you 1 it’s in Vancouver’s backyard. See p. 40. to such great summit lookouts so • Juan de Fuca Marine Trail (Vancouver quickly. Yes, it’s steep. But the view Island): A quick way to sample one of takes in the gently-dotted harbors, BC’s most important backpacking trips, islands, and rambling coastline of the this hike has little elevation gain. Watch Sunshine Coast. See p. 70. for orca whale out at sea, bald eagles in • Cal-Cheak to Brandywine Falls ancient trees, and starfish in the numer- (Whistler): This is a little-visited area ous tide pools. See p. 104. south of Whistler. The legendary falls in • Kokanee Lakes (Kokanee Glacier Pro- question are hidden in the wilderness. vincial Park): The best hike in the The trail heads past a handful of little beautiful Kootenay Mountains of inte- lakes, a suspension bridge, and a lush

THE BEST DIFFICULT HIKES DIFFICULT BEST THE rior British Columbia takes you high mountain meadow. See p. 129.

4 THE BEST DIFFICULT HIKES

• Rainbow Range (Cariboo Chilcotin challenge themselves weekend after Coast): Leading into the little-known weekend. It’s short but steep, a classic but magic Rainbow Range, deep in the endurance test called God’s Stairmas- heart of the remote Tweedsmuir Provin- ter—no active visit to Vancouver is cial Park, this hike will challenge those complete without it. See p. 43. looking for remoteness and route-find- • Bedwell Trail (Strathcona Provincial ing challenges, and to see the rarely Park): There are some surprisingly high seen. See p. 170. mountains on Vancouver Island. In the • The Grouse Grind (North Vancouver): middle of the island, this takes you to One of the iconic hikes of BC, this alpine waterfalls, meadows, and mid- is where Vancouver’s athletic folk summer snowfields. See p. 116.

004_159903-ch01.indd4_159903-ch01.indd 2 33/6/09/6/09 11:22:2511:22:25 PPMM • Iceline Trail (Yoho National Park): • Mount Bowman (Cache Creek): A dry 3 This trip can be done many ways, but summit next to the Mad Dog Moun- our 18km (11-mile) version has it all: tain in the center of British Columbia, glaciers, waterfalls, high alpine peaks, this is a remote trail leading to the sum-

and raging milky rivers. It’s a classic mit of the highest peak in the Marble THE BEST HIKING IN BRITISH COLUMBIA Rocky Mountain trail rich in history Ridge. The trip involves some challeng- and that elusive “Rocky Mountain ing route-finding. See p. 156. high.” See p. 230. • Mount Seymour Trail (North Vancou- • Panorama Ridge (Garibaldi Provincial ver): There are three high summits to Park): A whopping 1,500m (4,921 ft.) the north of Vancouver, and many trails elevation gain pays off on the shores of taking you to them within Mt Seymour Garibaldi Lake. You can knock the Provincial Park. The best trail takes in Helm Glacier, the Barrier cliff, Black Mystery Lake first, and then takes in all Tusk, the Table, and Taylor Meadows three peaks. See p. 49. off your must-see list. See p. 140.

5 THE BEST HISTORIC HIKES

• Barkerville to Summit Rock (Cariboo villagers, herring salteries, and a sand- Chilcotin Coast): A moderate hike stone quarry. Access is by a short ferry along the old wagon tracks of a historic from Nanaimo. See p. 107. 1

highway that teemed with life during • Stein Valley Nlaka’Pamux Heritage THE BEST HIKES FOR SEEING WILDLIFE the gold rush that began in 1862. See Park (Hope): A gorgeous trail through p. 172. a sacred site of the Lytton First Nation, • Myra Canyon, Kettle Valley Railway in a stunningly wild valley. Visit an (Okanagan): You can take in a variety of “asking rock,” pictographs, and a cul- sections of this historic railway, originally turally-modified tree. See p. 147. built between 1910 and 1915, and lov- • Burnt Bridge Creek Loop (Bella ingly restored between 2006 and 2008. Coola): The final section of the historic The trestle bridges in the parched land 420km (261-mile) Alexander Macken- south of Kelowna make up the most zie Heritage Trail takes you over the thrilling parts of the trail. See p. 196. same final steps the legendary explorer • Newcastle Island Provincial Park and mapmaker might have taken when (Vancouver Island): An easy 7.5km he first reached the Pacific Ocean in 3 (4 /4-mile) trail follows the coast of this 1793. The trail also has an even older island that once was the home to Salish Native history. See p. 167.

6 THE BEST HIKES FOR SEEING WILDLIFE

• Wild Pacific Trail (Vancouver Island): cougars, and wolves. It’s the kind of This is classic, dramatic West Coast ter- place where you want to sit still and rain just outside the town of Ucluelet. soak it all in. See p. 110. Watch for gray whales in spring, and • Mount Finlayson (Vancouver Island): seals, sea lions, and surfers the rest of Where Victoria’s weekend warriors the year. On land, there are bears, challenge themselves, Goldstream is a

004_159903-ch01.indd4_159903-ch01.indd 3 33/6/09/6/09 11:22:2511:22:25 PPMM 4 hive of activity when salmon spawn in coyotes, and beavers. Birders from autumn, drawing crowds of bald eagles. around the world come here to see See p. 80. more than 200 species, including her- • American Camp (San Juan Island): If ons, orioles, goldfinch, and Canada’s you want to see orca whales, come here smallest woodpeckers. See p. 210. in summertime. Three pods regularly • Kindersley Pass (Kootenay National make their home in the waters off Lime Park): If you don’t spot deer, bear, or Kiln Point and can often be seen from mountain goats while hiking this full- American Camp. See p. 97. day trail, just head down the road from • International Hike and Bike (Oliver): the trail head towards Radium Hot A great spot for bird-watching, this Spring, where bighorn sheep hang out. leisurely trail in the South Okanagan Remember, dawn and dusk are the best may also offer up deer, painted turtles, times to see wildlife. See p. 234.

7 THE BEST SCENIC HIKES

• Bugaboo Spires (Bugaboo Spires Pro- amidst the cool and clear air coming off vincial Park): For those craving stun- the Matier Glacier. See p. 135. THE BEST HIKING IN BRITISH COLUMBIA BRITISH IN HIKING BEST THE ning and unique mountain sceneries, • Junction Sheep Range (Williams this is alpine paradise. It’s a tough 5km Lake): With rolling grasslands, deep 1 (3-mile) climb, but no horizon in BC eroded gullies, cliffs, and hoodoos, the matches the Bugaboos’ granite spires as landscapes here, where the Chilcotin seen from the Conrad Kain Hut. See and Fraser rivers meet, are unique and p. 225. beautiful. A moderate 2-hour hike takes • Lake O’Hara Circuit (Yoho National you to the Farwell and Fraser canyons. Park): This is the kind of alpine land- See p. 161. scape dreams are made of. Lake O’Hara • Skookumchuck Narrows Provincial is a beautiful, magical area just west of Park (Sunshine Coast): It’s worth the the Continental Divide. Access is com- trip just to catch this natural phenom- plicated, so plan ahead. See p. 245. enon, one of the world’s largest saltwa- • Joffre Lakes (Joffre Provincial Park): A ter rapids. Be sure to time your hike moderate 5-hour hike in the Coast with the twice-daily tide changes, oth- THE BEST MOUNTAIN LODGES MOUNTAIN BEST THE Mountains north of Whistler takes you erwise there’ll be nothing but still water! to three gorgeous turquoise lakes set See p. 61.

8 THE BEST MOUNTAIN LODGES

• West Coast Wilderness Lodge (Egmont; • Nita Lake Lodge (Whistler; & 888/ & 877/988-3838 or 604/883-3667; 755-6482 or 604/966-5700; www. www.wcwl.com): Oceanfront property nitalakelodge.com): A luxury boutique this divine on the Sunshine Coast is hard lakeside lodge just steps from the Whis- to come by. With a rustic vibe, friendly tler Creekside is a great place to unwind staff, a spa, and the cute village of and rest up for a day exploring the Egmont nearby. See p. 75. mountains. Rooms are mainly “deluxe studios” with modern amenities and a hip décor. See p. 150.

004_159903-ch01.indd4_159903-ch01.indd 4 33/6/09/6/09 11:22:2511:22:25 PPMM • Cathedral Mountain Lodge (Yoho Overlooking Okanagan Lake, with the 5 National Park; & 866/619-6442 or 250/ valley in front of you and miles of vine- 343-6442; www.cathedralmountain. yards all around, this new Santa Fe– com): Located close to so many of the inspired resort brings life to the desert. See

great hikes in the amazing Yoho p. 217. THE BEST HIKING IN BRITISH COLUMBIA National Park, this is a collection of • Strathcona Park Lodge & Outdoor cozy cabins tucked along the shores of Education Centre (Campbell River; the Kicking Horse River. See p. 251. & 250/286-3122): With cabins, cha- • Spirit Ridge Vineyard Resort & Spa lets, and lodge rooms, this is one of (Osoyoos; & 877/313-9463 or Canada’s most ethical and eco-friendly 250/495-5445; www.spiritridge.ca): resorts. Great for families. See p. 120.

9 THE BEST RESTAURANTS

• Araxi Restaurant & Bar (Whistler; & • Fresco (Kelowna; & 250/868-8805): 604/932-4540): Award-winning The Okanagan’s most exciting and upscale dining in the chic heart of inspired eatery focuses on local and Whistler Village. Summer evening regional products, and of course, Oka- meals on the terrace are unforgettable. nagan wines. See p. 218. See p. 150. • Homer’s Most Excellent Take Out • Breakers Deli (Tofino; & 250/725- (Sooke; & 250/642-7456): A classic 1

2559): A popular informal eatery, this shake shack, fill up on fish and chips, THE BEST CAMPGROUNDS is a great place to pick up a picnic. wraps, burgers, poutine, or burritos. Falafel wraps or smoked salmon burri- Fresh, cheap, and decadent, if not calo- tos make great trail lunches! It’s open rie-wise. See p. 122. early. See p. 121. • Salmon House on the Hill (West Van- • Cilantros on the Lake, Emerald Lake couver; & 604/926-3212): A Vancou- Lodge (Yoho National Park; & 250/ ver-area classic, this may be the best 343-6321): Reward yourself post-hike place to sample alder-grilled salmon in with a grilled flatbread pizza, a pint of the world. Great views add to the micro-brewed beer, and a truly stun- appeal. Great wine list. See p. 76. ning scene on the shores of the marvel- ous Emerald Lake. See p. 253.

10 THE BEST CAMPGROUNDS

• Riverside RV Resort & Campground • Illecillewaet Campground (Glacier (Whistler; & 604/905-5533; www. National Park; & 250/837-7500; whistlercamping.com): A fancy camp- www.pc.gc.ca/glacier): Few campground for a stylish town. Heated show- grounds have so much at their doorstep. ers, a café, a putting green, and free Awesome hikes, a historic site, a gush- shuttles into the Village make this the ing alpine river, and a glacier in the most happening campground on the background. This is a great base camp. Sea to Sky Highway. See p. 150. No reservations are taken. See p. 251.

004_159903-ch01.indd4_159903-ch01.indd 5 33/6/09/6/09 11:22:2511:22:25 PPMM 6 • Bear Creek Provincial Park (Kelowna; pccamping.ca): With plenty of nearby (& 800/689-9025 or 604/689-9025): trails, an outdoor theater, playground, Shady sites on the shores of Okanagan and kitchen shelters, this large and full- Lake, there are 5km (3 miles) of hiking service campground has more activities trails right next door. Reservations are and amenities than most resorts. It’s just 1 highly recommended. See p. 216. 2.5km (1 /2 miles) from the village of • Redstreak Campground (Kootenay Radium Hot Springs. Remember, you National Park; & 877/737-3783; www. must reserve in advance! See p. 252. THE BEST HIKING IN BRITISH COLUMBIA BRITISH IN HIKING BEST THE

1 THE BEST CAMPGROUNDS BEST THE

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