1 The Best Hiking in British Columbia British Columbia is a very large province, larger than California, Oregon, and Washington State all put together. Most of it is wild and remote. Hiking opportunities abound. From urban-backyard hikes in Vancouver to ferry-accessed trail heads on the far Northwest, there is a lot of territory to explore on the coast. Further inland, there are hundreds and hundreds of kilometers of high mountains calling trekkers and nature-lovers. Whether you want a leisurely stroll in a lush forest or a challenging full-day high-mountain hike, you’ll find lots of options in “Beautiful BC.” In this chap- ter, we highlight the best of all that BC has to offer—the best trails for kids, the best challenging hikes, best hikes for scenery, and even the best mountain lodges. So, read on and start planning! 1 THE BEST HIKES FOR FAMILIES • Kinney Lake (Mt. Robson Provincial Lake River merge with the Fraser River Park): This gentle mountain ramble is is a lesson in the geography and history many families’ introduction to the joys of British Columbia. See p. 158. of hiking in the Rockies. Kinney Lake, • Lighthouse Park (North Vancouver): in the shadow of the Canadian Rockies’ Who doesn’t find lighthouses magical? highest peak, makes a great picnic spot. At Vancouver’s doorstep, this large park See p. 237. has a lush forest and a truly picture- • Lost Lake Nature Trail (Whistler): perfect well-preserved lighthouse. Great Even with Whistler’s notoriously radical picnic spot! See p. 36. mountain bikers whizzing by, this is a • Stawamus Chief (Squamish): Most calm, easy hike that leads out from the people hike the monolithic “Chief” via heart of Whistler Village. See p. 138. the South Peak. Our version also goes • Williams Lake River Valley Trail (Wil- past Shannon Falls, but then it goes liams Lake): Kids will love all the north to a quieter, higher, and more bridges here. There’s also a beaver dam technical trail. This is an appropriate and lots COPYRIGHTEDof fish! Watching the Williams hike MATERIAL for experienced teens. See p. 132. 2 THE BEST EASY HIKES • Kettle Valley Railway (Penticton to • Smuggler Cove Provincial Park (Sun- 1 Naramata): A 10km (6 /4-mile) leisurely shine Coast): A classic West Coast half- hike that heads out of suburbia along a hour ramble, this is the Sunshine Coast historic trestle bridge and ends at a gor- at its best. If you like birding, swim- geous winery. Cheers! See p. 196. ming, forests, pirates, and cool breezes, you’ll like it here. See p. 64. 004_159903-ch01.indd4_159903-ch01.indd 1 33/6/09/6/09 111:22:251:22:25 PPMM 2 • Pacific Spirit Park (Vancouver): If • Emerald Lake (Yoho National Park): you’ve got 2 hours to spare in down- This is not your average walk in a park. town Vancouver, take a bus out to the Flat, scenic, and circling around a jewel- coastal forests behind UBC and see how like lake, there are interpretive signs in simply the city turns wild here. See front, avalanches above, wildflowers p. 52. below, and a great bistro at the end. See • High Note via Half Note Trail (Whis- p. 228. tler): Don’t like hiking up but want to • Big Cedar Trail, Meares Island take in the mountain air? Take the (Tofino): Paddle a kayak from Tofino to Whistler Village Gondola and the Peak this amazing corner of Clayoquot Chair to the top of the ski resort. See Sound to see 2,000-year-old giant cedar p. 143. trees. A true treasure for humankind. See p. 113. 3 THE BEST MODERATE HIKES • St. Mark’s Summit (Cypress Provincial into an alpine region dotted with tur- Park): Just a bit longer than a half-day quoise lakes. See p. 239. THE BEST HIKING IN BRITISH COLUMBIA BRITISH IN HIKING BEST THE hike, this is a shorter version of the • Mount Daniel (Sechelt): There aren’t renowned Howe Crest Sound Trail, and many hikes in this book that take you 1 it’s in Vancouver’s backyard. See p. 40. to such great summit lookouts so • Juan de Fuca Marine Trail (Vancouver quickly. Yes, it’s steep. But the view Island): A quick way to sample one of takes in the gently-dotted harbors, BC’s most important backpacking trips, islands, and rambling coastline of the this hike has little elevation gain. Watch Sunshine Coast. See p. 70. for orca whale out at sea, bald eagles in • Cal-Cheak to Brandywine Falls ancient trees, and starfish in the numer- (Whistler): This is a little-visited area ous tide pools. See p. 104. south of Whistler. The legendary falls in • Kokanee Lakes (Kokanee Glacier Pro- question are hidden in the wilderness. vincial Park): The best hike in the The trail heads past a handful of little beautiful Kootenay Mountains of inte- lakes, a suspension bridge, and a lush THE BEST DIFFICULT HIKES DIFFICULT BEST THE rior British Columbia takes you high mountain meadow. See p. 129. 4 THE BEST DIFFICULT HIKES • Rainbow Range (Cariboo Chilcotin challenge themselves weekend after Coast): Leading into the little-known weekend. It’s short but steep, a classic but magic Rainbow Range, deep in the endurance test called God’s Stairmas- heart of the remote Tweedsmuir Provin- ter—no active visit to Vancouver is cial Park, this hike will challenge those complete without it. See p. 43. looking for remoteness and route-find- • Bedwell Trail (Strathcona Provincial ing challenges, and to see the rarely Park): There are some surprisingly high seen. See p. 170. mountains on Vancouver Island. In the • The Grouse Grind (North Vancouver): middle of the island, this takes you to One of the iconic hikes of BC, this alpine waterfalls, meadows, and mid- is where Vancouver’s athletic folk summer snowfields. See p. 116. 004_159903-ch01.indd4_159903-ch01.indd 2 33/6/09/6/09 111:22:251:22:25 PPMM • Iceline Trail (Yoho National Park): • Mount Bowman (Cache Creek): A dry 3 This trip can be done many ways, but summit next to the Mad Dog Moun- our 18km (11-mile) version has it all: tain in the center of British Columbia, glaciers, waterfalls, high alpine peaks, this is a remote trail leading to the sum- and raging milky rivers. It’s a classic mit of the highest peak in the Marble COLUMBIA BRITISH IN HIKING BEST THE Rocky Mountain trail rich in history Ridge. The trip involves some challeng- and that elusive “Rocky Mountain ing route-finding. See p. 156. high.” See p. 230. • Mount Seymour Trail (North Vancou- • Panorama Ridge (Garibaldi Provincial ver): There are three high summits to Park): A whopping 1,500m (4,921 ft.) the north of Vancouver, and many trails elevation gain pays off on the shores of taking you to them within Mt Seymour Garibaldi Lake. You can knock the Provincial Park. The best trail takes in Helm Glacier, the Barrier cliff, Black Mystery Lake first, and then takes in all Tusk, the Table, and Taylor Meadows three peaks. See p. 49. off your must-see list. See p. 140. 5 THE BEST HISTORIC HIKES • Barkerville to Summit Rock (Cariboo villagers, herring salteries, and a sand- Chilcotin Coast): A moderate hike stone quarry. Access is by a short ferry along the old wagon tracks of a historic from Nanaimo. See p. 107. 1 highway that teemed with life during • Stein Valley Nlaka’Pamux Heritage WILDLIFE SEEING FOR HIKES BEST THE the gold rush that began in 1862. See Park (Hope): A gorgeous trail through p. 172. a sacred site of the Lytton First Nation, • Myra Canyon, Kettle Valley Railway in a stunningly wild valley. Visit an (Okanagan): You can take in a variety of “asking rock,” pictographs, and a cul- sections of this historic railway, originally turally-modified tree. See p. 147. built between 1910 and 1915, and lov- • Burnt Bridge Creek Loop (Bella ingly restored between 2006 and 2008. Coola): The final section of the historic The trestle bridges in the parched land 420km (261-mile) Alexander Macken- south of Kelowna make up the most zie Heritage Trail takes you over the thrilling parts of the trail. See p. 196. same final steps the legendary explorer • Newcastle Island Provincial Park and mapmaker might have taken when (Vancouver Island): An easy 7.5km he first reached the Pacific Ocean in 3 (4 /4-mile) trail follows the coast of this 1793. The trail also has an even older island that once was the home to Salish Native history. See p. 167. 6 THE BEST HIKES FOR SEEING WILDLIFE • Wild Pacific Trail (Vancouver Island): cougars, and wolves. It’s the kind of This is classic, dramatic West Coast ter- place where you want to sit still and rain just outside the town of Ucluelet. soak it all in. See p. 110. Watch for gray whales in spring, and • Mount Finlayson (Vancouver Island): seals, sea lions, and surfers the rest of Where Victoria’s weekend warriors the year. On land, there are bears, challenge themselves, Goldstream is a 004_159903-ch01.indd4_159903-ch01.indd 3 33/6/09/6/09 111:22:251:22:25 PPMM 4 hive of activity when salmon spawn in coyotes, and beavers. Birders from autumn, drawing crowds of bald eagles. around the world come here to see See p. 80. more than 200 species, including her- • American Camp (San Juan Island): If ons, orioles, goldfinch, and Canada’s you want to see orca whales, come here smallest woodpeckers. See p. 210. in summertime. Three pods regularly • Kindersley Pass (Kootenay National make their home in the waters off Lime Park): If you don’t spot deer, bear, or Kiln Point and can often be seen from mountain goats while hiking this full- American Camp.