Metropolitan Convention & Visitors Bureau, Inc.

New Orleans

French Quarter Self-guided Walking Tour

Visitor Information (504) 566-5003 (800) 672-6124

www.neworleanscvb.com

Copyright May 2002. New Orleans Metropolitan Convention and Visitors Bureau, Inc. Reproduction without written permission is strictly prohibit- ed. Every effort was made to ensure accuracy of the information in this brochure. However, the NOMCVB assumes no responsibility forerrors or omissions. The NOMCVB makes no endorsement, representation, orwar- ranty regarding the suitability orquality of sites and tours available. The NOMCVB shall not be responsible orliable forany inaccuracy, omission, orinfringement of any third party’s rights therein; orforpersonal injury orany otherdamage orinjury whatsoever. Self-guided Walking Tour

• Because of the close confines, often, the best view of these landmarks is from across the street. • There is a map on each side of this brochure for your convenience. • Approximate time: 2-3 hours with no stops. Add additional time if you would like to have lunch, tour landmarks, shop or explore things at your leisure. • Wear comfortable walking shoes, and watch for traffic! Wild Life Museum and the United States Circuit Start here Court of Appeals for the Fifth Judicial District. After renovations are complete the building will house the four Circuits Court of 1 Appeals of Louisiana, a Louisiana Law Library, the State Attorney General’s Office and a museum. 301 Chartres Street; Kolly Townhouse, First Ursuline Convent and Charity Hospital Across from the main entrance of the court building is Jean-Daniel Kolly, banking counselor to the Elector of Bavaria and large investor in the Company of the Indies, had a town- 6 house built on this site shortly after the founding of New 417 Royal Street; Casa Faurie Orleans in 1718. Kolly leased the residence to the It now houses the famous Brennan’s Restaurant. This Ursuline nuns for a convent. Arriving from mansion was built soon after 1801 for the mater- Belize by pirogue on August 6, 1727, the nal grandfather of the French Impressionist nuns established themselves and remained painter, Edgar Degas. In 1805, the newly here until July 17, 1734. The building was organized Banque de la Louisiane bought the later used as the first Charity Hospital. property, and the bank’s monogram (BL) was added to the balcony railing. In 1819, the Walk 1 block down Bienville to Royal Street. bank closed and eventually the building was Turn right. At the end of the block is sold to Martin Gordon and became the social cen- ter of the city. When general Andrew Jackson revisited 2 New Orleans in 1828, he was feted at several lavish banquets in 334 Royal Street; Old Bank of Louisiana this house. However, in 1841, Mr. Gordon went broke and this This beautiful building was completed in 1826 to house the Bank building was sold at auction to Judge Alonzo Murphy. of Louisiana. For years this intersection was the city’s financial hub, with a bank on three of the four corners. It is currently the The cross street ahead of you is St. Louis. Turn left. Go a block site of the French Quarter 8th District Police Station, and a and a half to Tourist Information Center. 7 Across the street on Royal is 820 St. Louis Street; 3 The Hermann-Grima House William Brand constructed this house for Samuel Hermann, Sr., 343 Royal Street; Old Bank of the United States a well-to-do commission merchant, in 1831. Hermann sold the This structure, built in 1800, is the oldest of many buildings in premises in 1844 to Felix Grima, a prominent attorney and which banks have been located. Its balcony railings are excep- notary. This is an example of American influences on New tionally good examples of hand-forged (wrought) ironwork. Orleans Architecture. The handsome Federal mansion with its courtyard garden boasts the only horse stable and functional out- Next, after you cross Conti Street, you will see door kitchen in the Quarter. 4 403 Royal Street; Old Louisiana State Bank Retrace your steps to Royal. Turn left. Down a little, in the middle of the block is Note the bank’s monogram (LB) in the delicate wrought iron of the balcony railing. The Louisiana State Bank, which opened for 8 business in 1821, was designed by one of the architects of the 520 Royal Street; U.S. Capitol in Washington; Benjamin H. Latrobe. Maison Seignouret Francois Seignouret, a French Wine merchant, built this splen- That large white building across the street takes the entire did house in 1816. Seignouret, also a talented furniture maker, 5 produced here some of the finest furniture ever made. He always 400 block of Royal Street; managed to work his initial, an “S”, into his pieces. One can be New Orleans Court Building seen in the elaborate, fan-shaped iron garde de fries on the left- Erected in 1908-09, this marble edifice was occupied by the on the third story. The grillwork is often obstructed by a shutter disastrous fire of 1794. The now famous Pat O’Briens bar occu- – a door with slats, which is both decorative and purposeful by pies both the building and the magnificent courtyard behind it. providing shade to homes in the hot months. Return to Royal. At the opposite corner is 13 Across Royal is 640 Royal Street; Maison LeMonnier 9 (First Skyscraper) 533 Royal Street; Merieult House Frequently described as the “first skyscraper,” this three-story The fires of 1788 and 1794 reduced practically the whole city to structure was built in 1811 by Dr. Yves LeMonnier and the ashes. Only two principal structures escaped the flames. One of prominent pharmacist Francois Grandchamps. Dr. LeMonnier’s them was this dignified building, built in 1792 by Jean Francois third-floor study is to this day regarded as the most beautiful Merieult. His lovely wife, Catherine McNamara was endowed chamber, architecturally, in New Orleans. Wrought into the iron with a glorious head of shining red hair. When she was in balcony railings can be seen the doctor’s initials, “YLM.” with her husband, she was approached by an emissary from the Emperor Napoleon…asking for her hair! Napoleon was eager Turn off Royal onto St. Peter. A little more than half a block for France to make an alliance with a reluctant Sultan of Turkey, along is who wished to present one of his harem with a wig of light, bright color. His Majesty saw the opportunity to score a great 14 diplomatic victory – with Madame’s crowning glory! Madame 615 S. Peter Street; Louisiana State Arsenal Catherine refused, though Napoleon offered a castle. Merieult During the years of Spanish dominance, this was the site of the House is now owned by the Kemper and Leila Williams prison, or calabozo. After the American takeover in 1803, the Foundation, and houses the foundation’s Historic New Orleans State of Louisiana constructed a state arsenal on this spot for the Collection of maps, prints, drawings, documents, and artifacts. Louisiana Legion, a military organization made up of the state’s best families, Creole and American. Now, the building is a part Look across the street to of the Louisiana State Museum complex. 10 Backtrack to the short alley, Cabildo Alley. 534/536 Royal Street; Casa de Comercio Ahead of you is another passageway. It is An excellent example of forthright Spanish architecture in New Orleans, this building was built after the December 1794 fire. 15 Pirates Alley Continue down Royal to St. Peter. Turn left, and go to Legend says that somewhere along this passage Major-General 11 Jackson conferred with the freebooters Jean Lafitte and Pierre Lafitte about the forthcoming defense of New Orleans. The alley 714 St. Peter Street; LeMonnier House simply did not exist at that time! It was cut 16 years later (1831), Built in 1829, for the well-known physician, Dr. Yves and given the official name, Ruelle d’Orleans, Sud – meaning LeMonnier, this house acquired its most notable occupant, something like Orleans Walkway, South. Antoine Alciatoire, in 1860. Antoine operated a boarding house, preparing such succulent dishes as his famed spread. This even- Take a left onto Pirates Alley. On your left is tually led to the opening of the restaurant which has given him an international reputation. His direct descendants still own and 16 operate this restaurant. 624 Pirates Alley; Faulkner House Here in 1925, William Faulkner, nobel laureate, wrote his first Only a few steps away is novel, “Soldier’s Pay.” The building was erected in 1840 by the 12 widow of Jean Baptiste LaBranche on a site formerly occupied by part of the yard and buildings of the French Colonial Prison. 718 St. Peter Street; Maison de Flechier This ancient structure is believed to have been commissioned by well-known planter, Etienne Marie de Flechier, just after the Continue down Pirates Alley to Royal Street and stop at the disastrous fire of 1794. The now famous Pat O’Briens bar occu- intersection of pies both the building and the magnificent courtyard behind it. continued from other side 17 Royal and Orleans Streets, behind the St. Louis Cathedral; St. Anthony’s Square/Cathedral Garden The marble monument in the center of this small, iron-fenced garden was erected by the Minister of the Navy under Napoleon III. It was dedicated in honor of 30 French Marines who gave their lives serving as volunteer nurses during a Louisiana Yellow Fever epidemic. The garden has borne several names. “Cathedral Garden” is its official title, but many call it St Anthony’s Square, in memory of the most beloved individual in the colony’s history, a priest, Antonio de Sedella. When he came to the Louisiana colony, people called him by his Spanish name. Since then, we have come to know him only by the French form, Pere Antoine.

Cross Royal to Orleans. Walk half a block. On your right is a hotel. Note the section above the main entrance at 18 717 Orleans Avenue; The Orleans Ballroom In 278 years since it’s founding in 1718, New Orleans has grown from a small cluster of crude shelters to a major American Metropolis. John Davis opened his famed Orleans Ballroom in 1817. Here for the next 20 years, Davis would operate his Orleans Theatre and establish French Opera in America. He also operated an opulent dining and game room that equaled the best in Europe. Davis lost his enterprise and the Civil War destroyed the city’s haute monde. In 1881, the Sisters of the Holy Family, an order of black nuns devoted to teaching, acquired the property for a motherhouse and school. Finally, in 1964, the sisters, pressed by a need to expand the facilities, sold the property to hotel interests. New additions replace some of the structures built by the nuns, but the old Orleans Ballroom remains.

Go back to Royal and turn left. Take an immediate right on the far side of the Cathedral Garden. This will put you on 19 Pere Antoine’s Alley This alley runs from Royal to Chartres Streets between the Cathedral and Presbytere. Cut in 1831, this passage was given the official name, Ruelle d’Orleans, Nord, or Orleans Walkway, North, a twin to Ruelle d’Orleans, Sud (see no. 15) But, people refer to the alley as Passage of Saint-Antoine, or Pere Antoine’s Alley, to memorialize the beloved Capuchin.

Follow this passage to its further end (Chartres Street). As you emerge, turn left. The large, gray building with the iron fence in its arches is 20 The Presbytere The first edifice on this site was a small Capuchin monastery built during the early years of the Louisiana colony, but the fire of 1788 destroyed the building. In 1791, Don Andres Almonester y Roxas began construction of what he, a Spaniard, naturally called the Casa Curial. In French, it is Presbytere, or residence for the clergy serving the parish church. The first story was in place and its arched columns ready when, in 1794, fire swept through the structure for the second time in six years. The U.S. took over the territory in 1803, and completed the building in 1913. But never did it serve as either Casa Curial or Presbytere. In 1853, the city purchased the Presbytere from the wardens of the Cathedral, and it is now part of the Louisiana State Museum. As you face the front of the Presbytere, to your left is the 21 St. Louis Cathedral This is the oldest cathedral in the United States and the third church on this site. The house of worship first here was demolished by a hurricane in 1722, four years after New Orleans was founded. Its successor would endure for three quarters of a century longer, before perishing in flames. The present church dates from 1849-1851. It was constructed to the specifications of the architect J.N.B. de Pouilly. The first two had been parish churches only; when the third was dedicated, on Christmas Eve of 1794, it was a cathedral. In 1964, Pope Paul VI designated this a minor basilica.

Next door, again to the left, is 22 The Cabildo During Spanish rule, this structure housed the governing council, or Cabildo, of the colony. The structure on this site was erected in 1779, but burned in 1788. Don Andres Almonester y Roxas then contributed the funds for construction of a replacement. Built in 1795-99, and still standing, a portion of old Corps-de- Garde (Police Stations) of 1753 can be seen today in one of the ground floor rooms of the current Cabildo. The splendid wrought-iron balcony railing, called the finest work from the Spanish period in New Orleans, is attributed to Marcelino Hernandez. From this building, France, then Spain, then France again, then the United States, the Confederate States and finally, the United States again, have been governed. In a second floor room, known as the Sala Capitular, France ceded the territory of the Louisiana Purchase to the U.S. in 1803. Today a part of the Louisiana State museum, and the Cabildo display such important items as the “founding stone” of the colony (1699) and the death mask of Napoleon Bonaparte.

Presbytere, Cathedral, and Cabildo face the green oasis called 23 Jackson Square Established in 1721 as a drill field, what is now Jackson Square was known for more than a century as the Place d’Armes (under the French flag) or the Plaza de Armes (when Spain owned the colony). This plaza acquired its current name in 1848, but it wasn’t until 1850 that the dusty old parade ground began to take its present shape and design. The statue of General Jackson on his rearing horse, by sculptor Clark Mills, was put in place in 1856 and is the world’s first eques- trian statue with more than one hoof unsupported.

Bordering Jackson Square on two sides you will see the 24 Pontalba Buildings Micaela Almonester de Pontalba, the daughter of the colony’s richest man in the Spanish period, Don Andres Almonester y Roxas, built the great twin buildings, which bear her name. Determined to improve the Place d’Armes, Micaela de Pontalba planned to offer New Orleans luxury apartments and fine ground floor offices and shops. She hoped to reverse the flow of commerce moving from the Vieux Carré. Work was begun in 1840 on the 16 row houses facing St. Peter Street and completed in 1849. The almost identical row on the opposite side of the newly renamed Jackson Square was finished in 1851. The City of New Orleans now owns the St. Peter Street building. The Louisiana State Museum owns the St. Ann Street building. In the middle of the Pontalba Building on St. Ann Street is 25 525 St. Ann Street; The 1850 House Here a three-story section of the two Pontalba buildings has been beautifully restored to present a typical New Orleans dwelling of 1850. The furniture of the 1850 house is authentic New Orleans furniture of the mid-19th century. Some of the furniture is “Seignouret” or “Mallard,” named after two famous dealers and upholsterers.

After you leave the 1850 House, check out 26 529 St. Ann Street; St. Ann Street Visitors Center Pick up some brochures and have your questions answered about New Orleans or the State of Louisiana.

Exit the Visitors Center to your left. Proceed down St. Ann Street, and cross Decatur Street. To the right of Café du Monde, walk up the ramp and proceed across the streetcar tracks to 27 Moonwalk The Moonwalk (see map) is on the banks of the mighty Mississippi River.

Backtrack to Decatur Street and go to your right. As you walk down Decatur, the long, low structure on the river side of the street is part of 28 The French Market Its buildings are distinguished by graceful arcades and stately colonnades that have been a vibrant part of the New Orleans scene for more than 165 years. The French Market is anchored at its downriver end by the popular Farmer’s Market. This is a series of long, open sheds filled with fresh fruit, vegetables, and most anything that grows. In the Market are long-time shopkeepers, new shops, fine restaurants, bistros, coffee stands, craft stalls; in short, a galaxy of shopping pleasures and souvenirs for the entire family.

Continue down Decatur Street to Ursuline Street. Turn left. Go one block to Chartres. To your right will be 29 1100/1116 Chartres Street; Old Ursulines Convent This is one of the oldest structures in the Mississippi Valley. The Sisters of St. Ursula, who came to New Orleans from France in 1727, moved into this structure in 1749. Theirs was the first nunnery in Louisiana, and they conducted the orphanage. The sisters taught the colony’s daughters at this site until 1824, and then moved to another location outside the city. The Convent housed the Louisiana State Legislature from 1831 to 1834.

Across Chartres can be seen 30 1113 Chartres Street; Le Carpentier House/Beauregard-Keyes House On a part of the three city squares, which he bought from the Ursuline nuns, a highly regarded New Orleans auctioneer named Joseph LeCarpentier built this handsome residence in 1827. With him lived his daughter and her husband, attorney, Alonzo Morphy. Here, during the bleak winter of 1866-67, following the end of the Civil War, Confederate General P.G.T. Beauregard, “the Great Creole,” took a room in the house while seeking a job. In recent years, the house was the residence of the prolific novelist Frances Parkinson Keyes, who adopted New Orleans as her own and who wrote many books about the region, including one about Beauregard’s sad term of residence here. In the same block is 31 1133 Chartres Street; Soniat House About 1829, wealthy aristocratic planter, Joseph Soniat duFossat, built this place as a town house. In the 1860s, the wrought iron with which Monsieur de Fossat had embellished his home was torn away, replaced with the admirable cast-iron lacework it now wears. Proceed to Governor Nicholls Street, and turn left, to 32 618-20 Governor Nicholls Street; Clay House This is a residence built about 1828 by John Clay for his wife. Clay’s brother was the famous statesman, Henry Clay. The two-story building at the rear of the adjoining garden was added after 1871. In the 1890s, it was used by Frances Xavier Cabrini, the religious – now St. Frances Xavier Cabrini- as a schoolhouse. At the next corner (Royal Street and Governor Nicholls Street), to your left is a tall building of considerable interest. 33 1140 Royal Street; The LaLaurie House (The Haunted House) This is the city’s most famous private residence, and was constructed before 1831 by Louis Barthelmy de McCarthy. One of his five children, Delphine LaLaurie, acquired the house from her father in August 1831, and it quickly became the scene of brilliant social events. But there was a persistent buzz of gossip about the LaLaurie’s servants. Why did they seem so broken in spirit? So afraid? So – well, emaciated? In 1833, a neighbor told the police she had seen glamorous Delphine LaLaurie mercilessly lashing a small Negro slave girl, who shortly thereafter fell from the rooftop to the courtyard below. The police took Madame LaLaurie into court – but she was merely fined. Then, on the night of April 10, 1834, a fire broke out in the big LaLaurie residence. Neighbors crashed through a locked door into a smoke choked room – and found seven wretched, starving creatures chained leg and neck in the most painful positions, unable to move. A newspaper the next day suggested that Madame LaLaurie herself set the fire. Citizens began to mass outside the house. Suddenly, a carriage burst out of the gate and raced away, with the LaLauries in the back. The mob howled, then proceeded to tear down the house. The wrecked house was later restored, but the LaLauries never returned. Delphine died in Europe years afterward. Her body was brought to the city in great secrecy and buried. Ever since, some say, the house has been haunted by groans, screams, and the savage hissing of whips. Perhaps you would like to linger outside this place tonight to hear for yourself…at midnight, say…. Continue down to 34 1132 Royal Street; The Gallier House James Gallier, Jr. was one of the city’s most prominent architects. In 1857, he bought a lot here, then designed and built this resi- dence (1857or 1858). The elegant Victorian home, has been authentically restored to reflect the taste and lifestyle of a successful urban designer in post-Civil War New Orleans. Walk to St. Philip, turn right and go one block to Bourbon. 35 941 Bourbon Street; Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Just when this place was built, or by whom, is unknown. The oldest record of ownership dates back to 1772. Legend has it that this was a smithy operated by the dashing brothers Lafitte, the “hero” pirates or “privateers,” of New Orleans. Now return down St. Philip to Royal and turn right. In the middle of the block stands 36 915 Royal Street; The Cornstalk Fence It was the home of Judge Francois-Xavier Martin, first Chief Justice of the Louisiana Supreme Court and author of the first history of Louisiana. He lived here from 1816 to 1826. The pres- ent Victorian structure dates from circa 1850 and retains a cast-iron fence representing stalks and ears of corn intertwined with morning glory vines and blossoms. There is only one other like it in the city. This fence was cast in Philadelphia by the Wood & Perot foundry, and shipped by sea to New Orleans to Dr. Joseph Secondo Biarmenti, who bought the house in 1834 and erected the fence. Across the street, and a few steps to your right, you will find 37 900-906-910 Royal Street; Miltenberger Houses The Widow Miltenberger built these houses in 1838 for her three sons. Her great granddaughter, Alice Heine, was born in 1910. Ms. Heine might be described as this city’s most social success, marrying first the Duc de Richelieu, making her duchess; and then the Prince Louis of Monaco, making her a princess. Continue on Royal to Dumaine. Turn left on Dumaine and notice 38 632 Dumaine Street; The house of Jean Pascal/Madame John’s Legacy A rare example of French colonial design, the house is one of the few remaining Creole buildings in the Mississippi Valley. The great fire of Good Friday, 1788 that almost totally destroyed New Orleans, also burned this place. “Madame John’s Legacy” was built 1788 for the first owner Manuel de Lanzos. The current owner, the Louisiana State Museum, renovated the structure and fur- nished it with furniture of the period. The name “Madame John’s Legacy,” by which many local people identify this house is the result of having given that title in a fictional story, “Tite Poulette,” by George Washington Cable…