<<

FORT NATIONAL MEMORIAL

OREGON recruited and trained the Regular Army vol­ of the Indians and their language The Indians tered available remedies. Fleas were a major unteers and hardy young frontiersmen who to help gain passage through the Rocky nuisance, fresh relays of the tormenting in­ made up the . Mountains. She displayed unflinching forti­ The , Chinooks, Cathlamets, and sects being acquired on each visit from their tude and staunch courage in sharing all the Tillamooks were the most frequent visitors Indian neighbors. There never was much at Fort Clatsop. They lived in the sur­ food in reserve, and hunting for meat was Outward Bound rigors and hardships of the , and her native knowledge and resourcefulness con­ rounding , looked and dressed very all-important. earned NATIONAL MEMORIAL On May 14, 1804, the expedition started tributed materially to the success of the ex­ much alike, and spoke a similar language. high praise from his commanders for his from the mouth of the River near pedition. Head flattening was a common practice. skill as a hunter. Some 130 , 20 deer, St. Louis in one 55-foot keelboat and two On April 7, 1805, the party of 30 men The captains described them as talkative, and many small animals and fowl were killed smaller open boats called pirogues. The plus the Charbonneau family of 3 left Fort inquisitive, intelligent, and possessing excel­ during the winter. Cutting firewood in the Here Lewis and Clark wintered in 1805-06 following their epoch-making 1,600-mile ascent of the Missouri to the in the 2 pirogues and 6 canoes on lent memories. dripping rain forest was a continuous task. journey from the River to the Pacific Ocean. Mandan villages in what is now North Da­ its venture into the unknown. On the same These Indians had been in contact with A trail to the seacoast was established for kota was a tedious voyage of more than 5 day, the 10 men not assigned to the final white fur traders who came to the coast in the use of hunters and salt-makers. Three months. Sgt. , the only mem­ phase of the expedition started back down­ ocean-going ships for a dozen years before men were detailed to set up a camp on the The Lewis and Clark Expedition — the first France, active preparation for the expedition ber to lose his life during the entire ex­ stream for St. Louis, laden with natural his­ Lewis and Clark arrived overland. They ocean beach 14 miles to the southwest, at journey across the North American Continent was well underway. pedition, died of natural causes near present- tory specimens and dispatches and letters could describe the ships which brought the present-day Seaside, where more than three between the Spanish possessions on the south day City, . Warlike Sioux threat­ from the leaders and their men. traders to the mouth of the and bushels of salt were laboriously boiled out and British Canada to the north —was an ened the party, but were overawed by a The continued ascent of the upper Mis­ remember the names of their masters. Some of seawater in five metal kettles. event of major importance in the history of Leadership and Preparation display of firmness and courage. souri presented many challenges. Not least had acquired a few words of English, but When stormbound or not engaged in out­ the . President Jefferson chose Capt. Meriwether was built and occupied dur­ was the long portage around the Great Falls, communication with them was chiefly by side tasks, the men serviced their weapons This expedition gave the first detailed Lewis to head the expedition, and Lewis se­ ing the long, hard winter of 1804-05. At accomplished by considerable toil and inge­ Capt. . Painting by Capt. . Painting by the sign language. and equipment. Elkhide clothing and moc­ knowledge of the American Northwest and Charles Willson Peale. Charles Willson Peale. lected William Clark, his friend and former the nearby Minnetaree , the services nuity. Correctly choosing the main water Although they possessed a few old mus­ casins were prepared for the homeward awakened the interest which started the pro­ COURTESY INDEPENDENCE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK COLLECTION. COURTESY INDEPENDENCE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK COLLECTION. commanding officer, to share the responsibili­ of Charbonneau, a half-breed interpreter, were route, they continued up the Jefferson- kets, they still relied mainly on the bow and journey. The captains and the others who cession—first of trappers, then of settlers — ties of leadership. acquired. His young Shoshone wife, Sacaja- Beaverhead forks in toward the arrow for hunting. Lewis and Clark ex­ kept an account of the trip brought their that was a factor in making Ameri­ tiful on the south side of the Columbia, and bers. It was 30 feet above high water mark, wea, and their infant son accompanied him, Continental Divide as far as the canoes could pressed great admiration for the natives' can rather than British. They were instructed by the President to aware that a location fairly near the ocean timber suitable for construction was at hand, explore the to its source, as the leaders wished to use her knowledge go. Before them were formidable moun­ beach would be convenient for making and fresh-water springs were close by. The canoes and their skill in handling them. Clark's ground plan of Fort Clatsop. From Thwaites, Original Journals. establish the most direct land route across the tains whose crossing required horses, for much-needed salt, the company voted to forest cover and hills provided shelter from Glass beads represented money to the na­ Statue of Sacajawea at Bismarck, N.D. Background of the Expedition continent to the Pacific Ocean, make scientific which they successfully traded with Sacaja- seek a suitable wintering site across the river. the prevailing southerly winter gales which tives; they prized blue beads above all and geographic observations, and, in the in­ wea's Shoshone people and later with friendly Rough water made it necessary to go up­ lashed the open estuary of the Columbia, others. The Indians came to Fort Clatsop The vast and virtually unknown territory terests of future trade and peace, learn what Flatheads. stream several miles to navigate the crossing. and it was close enough to the harbot for to visit and trade, bringing fish, roots, furs, west of the Mississippi had for many years they could of the Indian tribes they encoun­ But even with horses, the explorers had This accomplished, a temporary camp was them to become aware of any visiting ships. and handcrafted articles. There were prac­ been of absorbing interest to Thomas Jeffer­ tered and impress them with the strength great difficulty traversing the Lolo Trail established on Tongue Point, just east of The seashore was less than 4 miles to the tically no hostile incidents. Clark described son, who recognized its importance to the and authority of the United States. through the rugged mountains to present-day Astoria, Oreg. Captain Lewis west. The main village of the friendly them as very close bargainers. Although future of a young and growing nation. After During the year preceding the departure, the country on the Clearwater with a small party scouted ahead and finally Clatsop Indians was about 8 miles distant, fond of smoking, they apparently had no his election to the presidency in 1800, he lost Captain Lewis applied himself to the study River in northern . There canoes were resolved on a location 2 miles up a small close enough for trading, far enough to keep desire for spirituous liquor. Generally speak­ no time in formulating plans to send an ex­ of scientific subjects under some of the most built and the party ptoceeded down that stream, now called the Lewis and Clark their friendly neighbors from calling too ing, these "Canoe Indians" were of small stature and not handsome by white man's ploration party overland to the Pacific Ocean. learned men in the country. With remark­ stream and the River in eastern Wash­ River, flowing into a bay of the Columbia frequently. The location admirably served standards. By June 1803, when it became publicly known able efficiency, he determined the needs and ington into the Columbia. On Novem­ now known as Young's Bay. Clark called their needs of winter residency. that the United States had acquired the im­ procured the varied equipment and supplies ber 14, after some 600 miles of water travel, it Meriwether's Bay, incorrectly believing On 8, construction of their they had their first full view of the ocean Captain Lewis to be the first to survey it. mense Territory by purchase from for the expedition. Clark, his able associate, winter quarters was begun, and the party Life at Fort Clatsop from near present-day McGowan, Wash. Like so many geographic features of the was under shelter on Christmas Day, 1805. area, it had been named by Lt. William Here, in a lonely outpost in a vast wilder­ Strict military routine was observed. A Broughton of Capt. 's The National Park System, of which this area is a unit, is dedicated to conserving the scenic, scientific, Locating for the Winter ness, they celebrated with volleys of firearms, sentinel was constantly posted, and at sun­ and historic heritage of the United States for the benefit and inspiration of its people. command, during his river survey in 1792. singing, and exchanging simple gifts. Their down the fort was cleared of visitors and Their camp on the north shore of the The site for the winter encampment was yuletide feast consisted of lean elk, spoiled the gates shut for the night. The men chosen because of several reasons. Most im­ estuary was exposed to the ocean gales, and dried fish, and roots. Five days later the were plagued by almost constant rain, with portant, it was near good hunting in the structure was completed and named Fort resultant colds, influenza, and other ailments, ABOVE: The 15-star, 15-stripe flag carried by the expedition was the second official flag of the the hunting was poor. Learning from visit­ lowlands where elk wintered in large num- United States. ing Clatsop Indians that elk were more plen- Clatsop, after the local Indian tribe. for which the captains diligently adminis­ journals up to date. Both Lewis and Clark blubber. The whale was a palatable wind­ Since no contemporary drawing of the build­ ington, the camp and trail sites at McGowan, made copious notes on the trees, plants, fish, fall from the sea and an economic event of ing is known to exist, the genera] appear­ Cape Disappointment, and Long Beach. and wildlife of the vicinity of Fort Clatsop great importance in the life of the natives ance is largely conjectural, but based on and drew excellent sketches. Many such who made use of it in various ways in trading knowledge of similar structures of that A dministration descriptions were the first identification of for items desired or needed from neighbor­ period. important flora and fauna of the Pacific ing tribes. Clark was able to procure 300 FORT CLATSOP NATIONAL MEMORIAL is Northwest. Clark, the cartographer of the pounds of the meat and some oil. The Memorial administered by the , party, spent most of his time drawing maps En route they had visited the salt-makers U.S. Department of the Interior. A super­ of the country through which they had camp at present-day Seaside and marveled at The site of Fort Clatsop was preserved by intendent, whose address is P.O. Box 83, As­ come. Some, surprisingly accurate, were the scenery as they made the tortuous climbs the Oregon Historical Society and later do­ FORT CLATSOP toria, Oreg., is in immediate charge. based only on information supplied by over and other points pro­ nated to the people of the United States. The Indians. jecting into the ocean. 125-acre Fort Clatsop National Memorial Created in 1849, the Department of the A welcome addition to their diet appeared The party camped for the night at Can­ was authorized by Congress in 1958 to com­ Interior —America's Department of Natural NATIONAL MEMORIAL in late when the eulachon, or smelt, non Beach, the southernmost coastal point memorate the winter encampment of the Resources—is concerned with the manage­ started running up the Columbia. These reached by the expedition during its western Lewis and Clark Expedition following its ment, conservation, and development of the delicious little fish were heartily welcomed journey. The next day, they began retracing successful crossing of the North American Nation's water, wildlife, mineral, forest, and by the hungry men, who, although they pre­ the route to Fort Clatsop, which they reached continent. The memorial, located AVi miles park and recreational resources. It also has ferred meat, were getting tired of lean elk. after an overnight stop at the salt camp. southwest of Astoria, Oreg. is open all year. major responsibilities for Indian and Terri­ For vegetables, the men at Fort Clatsop had The trip was an interesting diversion from U.S. 101 passes just north of the area. Over­ torial affairs. to be content with various roots including the monotonous routine at the fort and was night accommodations and meals are avail­ As the Nation's principal conservation the wapato, which was very much like a accomplished during fine weather. able at Astoria, Warrenton, Seaside, and agency, the Department works to assure that small potato. These root-foods were gath­ Gearhart, Oreg. nonrenewable resources are developed and used wisely, that park and recreational re­ ered by the Indians in the marshy lands up A museum interpreting the story of the Departure sources are conserved for the future, and that the Columbia and brought to the fort for Lewis and Clark Expedition, and the mod­ renewable resources make their full contribu­ trade. ern replica of the fort are features of the As approached, the elk took to tion to the progress, prosperity, and security memorial. corresponding to those the hills, and it became increasingly difficult of the United States—now and in the future. used by the explorers may be followed to for the hunters to keep the camp supplied Trip to the Whale the canoe landing, the camp spring, and to­ with meat. The men were restless and anx­ ward the seacoast. ious to begin the return trip. Fort Clatsop, Mission 66 News of a whale stranded on the ocean with its furnishings, was presented to Como- beach 25 miles southwest excited the inter­ wool, the Clatsop chief, as a mark of ap­ Related Points of Interest MISSION 66, a program designed to be est of the garrison—the blubber and oil were preciation for his cooperation and friendli­ completed by 1966, will assure the maxi­ edible and presumably none of them had ness. On March 23, 1806, the expedition Short trips of 25 miles or less, south and mum protection of the scenic, scientific, ever seen a whale. Captain Clark selected embarked in canoes for the trip up the Co­ north of Fort Clatsop, will orient you to wilderness, and historic resources of the Na­ a small party to make the trip. Sacajawea lumbia River—destination, the United States points visited and described in the Lewis and tional Park System in such ways and by begged to go, pointing out that she had and home. Clark journals. These include the salt cairn such means as will make them available for come a long way to see the great waters but at Seaside, the trail over Tillamook Head to the use and enjoyment of present and future had not yet been to the ocean; now that a Cannon Beach, and, in the State of Wash­ generations. monster of the sea was also to be seen, she Fort Clatsop Today thought it would be very hard if she were COVER: An artist's conception of Fort Clatsop, the 1805-06 winter quarters of the Lewis and Clark denied. She was therefore permitted to ac­ Expedition. Nothing of the original fort has survived. COURTESY CLATSOP COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY. company them. Through the cooperative efforts of many On the third day they arrived at the sandy citizens and organizations of Clatsop County, UNITED STATES beach, now known as Cannon Beach, where a replica was built in 1955 on the occasion DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR OREGON lay only the remains of the whale. They of the Lewis and Clark Sesquicentennial found that the industrious Tillamook Indians celebration. It faithfully follows the floor NATIONAL PARK SERVICE had reduced it to a virtual skeleton and were plan dimensions as drawn by Captain Clark busily engaged rendering oil by boiling the on the elkhide cover of his field book. Revised 1962 U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1962 OF—656314