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Pitcairn Island: Cruise Ship Hanseatic H Ome of “Bounty” Mutineers and Their Descendants Maria Amoamo

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Pitcairn Island: Cruise Ship Hanseatic H Ome of “Bounty” Mutineers and Their Descendants Maria Amoamo Bounty Bay landing site and Pitcairn Island: cruise ship Hanseatic H ome of “Bounty” Mutineers and Their Descendants Maria Amoamo This article draws on my year’s experience on Pitcairn Island from August 2008 to September 2009 as I accompanied my partner and appointed Medical Officer to this small community in the southwest Pacific. The following narrative hopes to impart a sense of ‘unique isolation’ and discuss the obstacles and potential for tourism development to this remote Pacific Island community whose early history is inextricably bound to Eastern Polynesia and the latter day mutineers of HMAS Bounty whom, in 1790 made Pitcairn their home. Pitcairn Island Bounty Bay heritage site. It offers a rare collection nesian and British heritage, an intriguing Pitcairn is a small volcanic island situa- of native fauna and flora including nine history, remote location and lush natu- ted halfway between New Zealand and endemic plants, four endemic species of ral surroundings. Notwithstanding these South America and is often referred to birds and numerous migratory species. unique features, the difficult access has as the most isolated island in the world. As the only inhabited island of the group limited the development of tourism to The island is 3.2km long by 1.6km Pitcairn’s nearest landfall is Mangareva irregular cruise ship and yachting visi- wide with an irregular shape of which in the Gambier Islands, part of French tors and some study groups including only 8% is flat. It has a rugged coast- Polynesia some 480kms north east. Due naturalists, divers and representatives line, steep slopes and cliffs and its high- to its remote location accessibility is by of the Pitcairn Island Administration. est point is 347 meters above sea level. 36 hour boat trip from Mangareva. The However, recent steps towards more Pitcairn enjoys a sub-tropical climate and current service operates only four times autonomous self government and com- is part of the Pitcairn Island Group and a year but is expected to increase in the munity development projects to improve a British Overseas Territory which also near future. Today Pitcairn’s inhabitants’ infrastructure hope to increase the flow includes Henderson, Ducie and Oeno number only 52 people; many of whom of tourism to the island. Islands. Oeno and Ducie are small low are descendents of the Bounty muti- Pitcairn is infamous as a refuge for the atolls while Henderson is a much larger neers. Their lifestyle offers a unique in- mutineers of the HMAS Bounty. It is a raised coral island and UNESCO world sight to a culture that is built on Poly- place shrouded in history and intrigue; All photos by Maria Amoamo Pacific News #33 • January/February 2010 27 (see photo: Pitcairn honey). Production of unique art and crafts are an impor- tant part of Pitcairn’s social and cultu- ral identity and during my stay I initia- ted plans towards developing a “mark of authenticity” for these products that include wood carving, weaving and tapa cloth making. All materials are sour- ced from the Pitcairn Island Group and handmade by locals. Much time is spent by the elder women collecting, drying, and preparing pandanas leaves for basket-weaving; a highly labour in- tensive job but one which has become an integral part of Pitcairn social life and livelihood. The social and economic context of tourism Pitcairners are robust and resourceful people whose lifestyle is fashioned by their rugged and isolated environment. They are well connected with the rest of the world with internet and television Pitcairn honey and much of their day to day life is com- mitted to maintaining roads, building its story legendary with five movies fallen and the small trading economy de- homes, upkeep of basic infrastructure, and over 70 books relating the tale. The clined. Combined with reduced invest- fishing and growing fruit and vegetab- Bounty set sail from Spithead, Ports- ments and limited success in diversifying les. A recent governmental restructu- mouth in December 1787 bound for the economy, tourism is being explored ring programme has devolved operati- Tahiti to collect breadfruit and transport as an integral part of its current develop- onal responsibility for local governance them to the West Indies where they were ment strategy. With a small and ageing to the community and aims to develop to be cultivated to produce cheap food population Pitcairn is vulnerable and a more self sufficient local economic for slaves (Nicolson 1997). The ensuing tourism is strongly mooted as a means model and gives attention to bio-secu- mutiny on the Bounty in 1789 is well do- of kick-starting the economy, providing rity, education, public health, agriculture cumented and today attracts visitors to jobs, encouraging entrepreneurial acti- and fisheries and culture and tourism. experience this desolate rock where Flet- vity and improving links with overseas The intention is to increase autonomy, cher Christian and eight Bounty crew markets (Pitcairn Island Council (PIC) improve living standards and encourage accompanied by nineteen Tahitian men 2008). Residing on the island are also a expansion of the population (PIC 2008). and women sought refuge from the Bri- school teacher (there are six school age Pitcairn is heavily reliant on budgetary tish navy. They remained undiscovered and two preschool children), a doctor aid administered by DFID (Depart- until 1808 when the American sealing on annual contract, policeman, a Family ment for International Development). ship Topaz visited the island. By this and Community Advisor, Pitcairn Island DFID was established in 1997 by the time only one mutineer, John Adams Commissioner and UK Governor’s re- UK government as a department wor- and a number of Tahitian women and presentative who is appointed annually. king towards Millennium Development children were left. Adams had created There is one grocery store, a warehouse, Goals (MDGs) agreed by the United a peaceful and pious community that church, post office and an office for the Nations (www.dfid.gov.uk). closely followed the teachings of the Treasurer and Secretary and a commu- DFID continually monitors how Pit- Bible that accompanied the sailors to the nity Town Hall. Local Council consists cairn uses money and regularly sends ad- island. The Bounty Bible takes pride of of seven members including a mayor ministrative staff to the island to assess place in Adamstown’s museum on Pit- who is elected for a three-year term. All current development. A number of cairn today where most residents are Pitcairners of working age have govern- obstacles have hindered tourism deve- now Seventh Day Adventists, having ment jobs, and many are employed on lopment in the past however progress converted to the faith in 1887 as a re- infrastructure projects such as the cur- is now being made towards more self- sult of the visit of an American missi- rent redevelopment of the landing site at directed and entrepreneurial approaches onary of that persuasion. Thus, it is the Bounty Bay (see photo: Bounty Bay lan- to developing tourism as a means to eco- Bounty heritage that draws visitors to ding site and cruise ship Hanseatic). nomical growth. The 2006 Pitcairn Island the island today. Over the past decade, Incomes are supplemented by the Development Plan emphasized the need interest in Pitcairn stamps, once the ma- sale of curios to cruise ships and other to further develop cruise ship tourism jor source of income for the island, has visitors, and the sale of Pitcairn honey in order to increase Pitcairners’ econo- 28 Pacific News #33 • January/February 2010 mic self-reliance (TRC 2008). However the reality is that the number of cruise ships visiting the island has been slowly declining. Out of an estimated 40 ships that cruise in this region, currently only between eight to ten ships make Pitcairn Island a port of call. Of those that do visit, several only classify Pitcairn as a “cruise-by” destination and almost half do not land passengers on the island. Part of the reason for this is thought to be the strong swells and the difficulty of landing ships’ tenders (TRC 2008: 1). Current figures show a total of 2500- 3000 cruise ship passengers during the cruise season October to March. There has been little change to this number for some years primarily because of: the re- lative isolation of Pitcairn Island, ma- king it difficult to visit on a short cruise, perceived lack of facilities and things to Bringing passengers ashore to Bounty Bay do on-island, and the difficulty of get- and safer passage for transfer between Tourism Board has also recently develo- ting passengers ashore, especially in ship and shore. This will give the island ped a website and produced brochures heavy weather (TRC 2008). Pitcairn has two access points depending on weather to aid this process. For independent tra- no harbour or anchorage, and heavy conditions and increased passenger ca- vellers to the island accommodation can swells pound the steep rocky cliffs for pacity. It is hoped this will attract more be provided with local families for a cost much of the year hence, landing visitors of the 40+ cruise ships that ply the Pa- of USD$75.00 per person per night in- can present a significant challenge and nama Pacific route. Passengers who land cluding meals and internet access. Home risk for cruise passengers. The transfer ashore are rewarded with a rich variety stays are popular with Pitcairn Island fa- of passengers ashore is usually under- of culture, heritage, eco-tourism and milies and visitors alike, providing an op- taken by Pitcairn long-boats that are, in adventure activities and of course, a portunity for social exchange and insight themselves an ‘attraction’ that many vi- chance to meet the descendants of the to island life.
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