Bounty Bay landing site and Island: cruise ship Hanseatic H ome of “Bounty” Mutineers and Their Descendants Maria Amoamo

This article draws on my year’s experience on Pitcairn Island from August 2008 to September 2009 as I accompanied my partner and appointed Medical Officer to this small community in the ­southwest Pacific. The following narrative hopes to impart a sense of ‘unique isolation’ and discuss the obstacles and potential for tourism ­development to this remote Pacific Island community whose early history is inextricably bound to Eastern Polynesia and the latter day mutineers of HMAS Bounty whom, in 1790 made Pitcairn their home.

Pitcairn Island Bounty Bay heritage site. It offers a rare collection nesian and British heritage, an intriguing Pitcairn is a small volcanic island situa- of native fauna and flora including nine history, remote location and lush natu- ted halfway between New Zealand and endemic plants, four endemic species of ral surroundings. Notwithstanding these South America and is often referred to birds and numerous migratory species. unique features, the difficult access has as the most isolated island in the world. As the only inhabited island of the group limited the development of tourism to The island is 3.2km long by 1.6km Pitcairn’s nearest landfall is Mangareva irregular cruise ship and yachting visi- wide with an irregular shape of which in the Gambier Islands, part of French tors and some study groups including only 8% is flat. It has a rugged coast- Polynesia some 480kms north east. Due naturalists, divers and representatives line, steep slopes and cliffs and its high- to its remote location accessibility is by of the Pitcairn Island Administration. est point is 347 meters above sea level. 36 hour boat trip from Mangareva. The ­However, recent steps towards more ­Pitcairn ­enjoys a sub-tropical climate and current service operates only four times ­autonomous self government and com- is part of the Pitcairn Island Group and a year but is expected to increase in the munity development projects to improve a British Overseas Territory which also near future. Today Pitcairn’s inhabitants’ infrastructure hope to increase the flow includes Henderson, Ducie and Oeno number only 52 people; many of whom of tourism­ to the island. Islands. Oeno and Ducie are small low are descendents of the Bounty muti- Pitcairn is infamous as a refuge for the atolls while Henderson is a much larger neers. Their lifestyle offers a unique in- mutineers of the HMAS Bounty. It is a raised coral island and UNESCO world sight to a culture that is built on Poly- place shrouded in history and intrigue; All photos by Maria Amoamo

Pacific News #33 • January/February 2010 27 (see photo: Pitcairn honey). Production of unique art and crafts are an impor- tant part of Pitcairn’s social and cultu- ral identity and during my stay I initia- ted plans towards developing a “mark of authenticity” for these products that include wood carving, weaving and tapa cloth making. All materials are sour- ced from the Pitcairn Island Group and handmade by locals. Much time is spent by the elder women collecting, ­drying, and preparing pandanas leaves for ­basket-weaving; a highly labour in- tensive job but one which has become an integral part of Pitcairn social life and livelihood.

The social and economic ­context of tourism Pitcairners are robust and resourceful people whose lifestyle is fashioned by their rugged and isolated environment. They are well connected with the rest of the world with internet and television Pitcairn honey and much of their day to day life is com- mitted to maintaining roads, building its story legendary with five movies fallen and the small trading economy de- homes, upkeep of basic infrastructure, and over 70 books relating the tale. The clined. Combined with reduced invest- fishing and growing fruit and vegetab- Bounty set sail from Spithead, Ports- ments and limited success in diversifying les. A recent governmental restructu- mouth in December 1787 bound for the economy, tourism is being explored ring programme has devolved operati- ­Tahiti to ­collect breadfruit and transport as an integral part of its current develop- onal ­responsibility for local governance them to the West Indies where they were ment strategy. With a small and ageing to the community and aims to develop to be cultivated to produce cheap food population Pitcairn is vulnerable and a more self sufficient local economic for slaves (Nicolson 1997). The ensuing tourism is strongly mooted as a means model and gives attention to bio-secu- in 1789 is well do- of kick-starting the economy, providing rity, education, public health, agriculture cumented and today attracts visitors to jobs, encouraging entrepreneurial acti- and fisheries and culture and tourism. experience this desolate rock where Flet- vity and improving links with overseas The intention is to increase autonomy, cher Christian and eight Bounty crew markets (Pitcairn Island Council (PIC) improve living standards and encourage accompanied by nineteen Tahitian men 2008). Residing on the island are also a expansion of the population (PIC 2008). and women sought refuge from the Bri- school teacher (there are six school age Pitcairn is heavily reliant on budgetary tish navy. They remained undiscovered and two preschool children), a doctor aid administered by DFID (Depart- until 1808 when the American sealing on annual contract, policeman, a Family ment for International Development). ship Topaz visited the island. By this and Community Advisor, Pitcairn Island DFID was ­established in 1997 by the time only one mutineer, Commissioner and UK Governor’s re- UK government as a department wor- and a number of Tahitian women and presentative who is appointed annually. king towards Millennium Development children were left. Adams had created There is one grocery store, a warehouse, Goals (MDGs) agreed by the United a peaceful and pious community that church, post office and an office for the Nations (www.dfid.gov.uk). closely followed the teachings of the Treasurer and Secretary and a commu- DFID continually monitors how Pit- ­Bible that accompanied the sailors to the nity Town Hall. Local Council consists cairn uses money and regularly sends ad- island. The Bounty Bible takes pride of of seven members including a mayor ministrative staff to the island to ­assess place in Adamstown’s museum on Pit- who is elected for a three-year term. All current development. A number of cairn today where most residents are Pitcairners of working age have govern- obstacles have hindered tourism deve- now Seventh Day Adventists, having ment jobs, and many are employed on lopment in the past however progress converted to the faith in 1887 as a re- infrastructure projects such as the cur- is now being made towards more self- sult of the visit of an American missi- rent redevelopment of the landing site at ­directed and entrepreneurial approaches onary of that persuasion. Thus, it is the Bounty Bay (see photo: Bounty Bay lan- to developing tourism as a means to eco- Bounty heritage that draws visitors to ding site and cruise ship Hanseatic). nomical growth. The 2006 ­Pitcairn Island the island today. Over the past decade, Incomes are supplemented by the Development Plan emphasized the need interest in Pitcairn stamps, once the ma- sale of curios to cruise ships and other to further develop cruise ship tourism jor source of income for the island, has ­visitors, and the sale of Pitcairn honey in order to increase Pitcairners’ econo-

28 Pacific News #33 • January/February 2010 mic self-reliance (TRC 2008). However the reality is that the number of cruise ships visiting the island has been slowly declining. Out of an estimated 40 ships that cruise in this region, currently only between eight to ten ships make Pitcairn Island a port of call. Of those that do visit, several only classify Pitcairn as a “cruise-by” destination and almost half do not land passengers on the island. Part of the reason for this is thought to be the strong swells and the difficulty of landing ships’ tenders (TRC 2008: 1). Current figures show a total of 2500- 3000 cruise ship passengers during the cruise season October to March. There has been little change to this number for some years primarily because of: the re- lative isolation of Pitcairn Island, ma- king it difficult to visit on a short cruise, perceived lack of facilities and things to Bringing passengers ashore to Bounty Bay do on-island, and the difficulty of get- and safer passage for transfer between Tourism Board has also recently develo- ting passengers ashore, especially in ship and shore. This will give the island ped a website and produced brochures heavy weather (TRC 2008). Pitcairn has two access points depending on weather to aid this process. For independent tra- no harbour or anchorage, and heavy conditions and increased passenger ca- vellers to the island accommodation can swells pound the steep rocky cliffs for pacity. It is hoped this will attract more be provided with local families for a cost much of the year hence, landing visitors of the 40+ cruise ships that ply the Pa- of USD$75.00 per person per night in- can present a significant challenge and nama Pacific route. Passengers who land cluding meals and internet access. Home risk for cruise passengers. The transfer ashore are rewarded with a rich variety stays are popular with Pitcairn Island fa- of passengers ashore is usually under- of culture, heritage, eco-tourism and milies and visitors alike, providing an op- taken by Pitcairn long-boats that are, in adventure activities and of course, a portunity for social exchange and insight themselves an ‘attraction’ that many vi- chance to meet the descendants of the to island life. However, these opportuni- sitors to Pitcairn are keen to ­experience. Bounty mutineers. When not possible to ties are restricted to the infrequent ship- Pitcairn men are skilled at navigating land any visitors, come ping schedule between Mangareva and boats through the risky passage in to to the ship to set up market stalls. The Pitcairn. Visitors who stay ashore can Bounty Bay; however the sometimes opportunity to take merchandise out to experience stunning scenery and ­hikes dangerous transfer between cruise ves- passengers is an additional source of to such sites as St. Paul’s rock pools, sel and long-boat, and the current set- income for many locals but can create Christian’s Cave, Ships Landing, Highest up of the longboat (no seating except problems with limited human resources. Point, and Garnet’s Ridge. An eco-trail flat deck planking) does not suit many Crew are required to man the longboat, has been created en route to Christian’s elderly passengers (see photo: Bringing whilst locals also cater to those passen- Cave with interpretation signage that in- passengers ashore to Bounty Bay). The gers who come ashore – offering quad forms visitors of Pitcairn’s native flora long-boats have been the life-blood of bike sightseeing tours, walking tours, the and fauna (see photo: St Paul’s rock Pitcairn for many decades and have sale of curios and souvenirs, and often pools). Another feature that gives visi- ­enabled Pitcairners to visit and trade hosting an informative lecture and lunch tors a personally rich ‘narrative’ of the with passing container ships (see photo: for visitors in the town square. At times island are the descriptive names for Longboats “Moss” & “O’Leary”). This specialist groups such as ­ornithologists, many of the geographic features, e.g., helps ­supplement the three-monthly divers and botanists visit the island by Ned Young Ground, John Catch-a-Cow, supply ship that visits the island. private charter during the cruise season. Nancy's Stone, Little George Coconuts, These Bounty ‘enthusiasts’ are a growing and the ever popular Where Dan Fell. Addressing challenges niche market as well as visiting “yach- in tourism ties” during the sailing season April to The future of tourism Current discussion between DFID and June. Steps are being taken to promote on Pitcairn Island the Government has and market the Pitcairn experience and It is interesting to note that, although seen the initiation of an ‘alternative the local Tourism Board has recently Pitcairn was uninhabited at the time the harbour’ project planned for the wes- ­initiated plans to develop a promotional Bounty mutineers arrived in 1790, the tern side of the island known as Ted- DVD for existing and potential cruise remains of a vanished civilization were side. This proposed $14million dollar agencies and operators. This will also clearly visible. The mutineers discovered venture will provide potential for up to help change market perceptions of ‘lack four platforms with roughly hewn stone 40% additional landing for cruise ships of on-island activities for visitors’. The statues, similar, apparently, to those on

Pacific News #33 • January/February 2010 29 of these rock drawings and a chance to explore Pitcairn’s only sandy beach – a great fishing spot (see photo: “Sleeping Elephant” and route to “Down Rope” site). The history of Pitcairn is an impor- tant part of its cultural survival. This was evident when I became involved with a local heritage project during my time on the island. The ‘cemetery project’ was a community project to map, catalogue and re-dedicate the Pitcairn cemetery. Its current site was established from 1856 onwards when the entire population of 194 persons relocated to Norfolk Island because Pitcairn had become too small for their growing population. Many of these descendants stayed on Norfolk Longboats “Moss” & “O’Leary” but a small group were homesick for Pitcairn and returned over the period Rapa Nui (Easter Island). Unfortuna- drawings, which have been the subject 1859 – 1864. Due to neglect of the ce- tely, the English, being good Christians, of numerous archaeological studies over metery over time it was decided that it ­destroyed the platforms and threw the the past century, have never been fully would be a worthwhile project to iden- images into the sea (Falk 2004). Evidence interpreted but together with other na- tify where possible, every known grave remains however, including burial sites, tive artifacts, are considered to be Poly- at the cemetery, map and catalogue the stone axes and ancient petroglyphs dis- nesian in origin. For those adventurous information, and order commemorative covered at an area called “Down Rope” enough, the steep cliff face descent to plaques from New Zealand. There was at the eastern end of the island. These Down Rope is rewarded with a glimpse widespread enthusiasm from many local

30 Pacific News #33 • January/February 2010 residents whom, over a two-week period progressively marked each burial site and ­checked details against the Pitcairn ­births and deaths register. The input of elder knowledge was crucial to this pro- cess and many stories and anecdotes were shared. A comprehensive alpha- betical list of all births and deaths was collated that aided correction of seve- ral errors in the island’s current register. The cemetery project has contributed to the social and cultural fabric of Pitcairn ­society and its ongoing preservation will be ­entrusted to a local trust or commit- tee. The timing of this project was very relevant as 2009 marks the 150th anni- versary of Pitcairners’ return from Nor- folk Island on 17th January 1859. The Pitcairn Island Commissioner Leslie Jacques commented that “Pitcairn is honouring the past and taking responsi- bility for the future”. Hopefully tourism St Paul’s rock pools development will provide a sustainable References economic industry for the livelihood Nicolson, R. (1997). The Pitcairners. Auckland: DFID (2008). http://www.dfid.gov.uk. Accessed of this small community of Bounty ­Pasifika Press. 29/08/2009. ­descendants. Tourists who are prepa- Pitcairn Island Council (2008). Governance Restruc- Falk, B. (2004). ‘In High Places’: Pitcairn Island red to go the ‘extra mile’ to this remote ture Concept Document, prepared by Council, Pitcairn ­Highpoint. ­island paradise are rewarded with a rich ­Development Team (PDT) & Pitcairn Community. http://www.angeles.sierraclub.org/sps/archives/ Tourism Resource Consultants (TRC), (2008). and ‘bountiful’ experience. sps01849.htm Pitcairn Island 2008 Cruise Ship Survey Final Report, Accessed 01/09/2009 June 2008, Wellington. Maria Amoamo [[email protected]] completed a PhD in tourism at the Department of ­Tourism, University of Otago, Dunedin, New Zealand. She has also published on Maori tourism and cultural ­representation.

“Sleeping Elephant” and route to “Down Rope” site

Pacific News #33 • January/February 2010 31