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Headonism at LFW Winning Hats Headdress Tutorial and More Issue 115 October 2015 Headonism at LFW Winning Hats Headdress Tutorial and more... the e-magazine for those who make hats Issue 115 October 2015 Contents: Headonism 2 British millinery at London Fashion Week. Hat of the Month 8 Tracy Chaplin’s Estivales du Chapeau hat. Make a Shoulder Length Mantilla Veil - Part 3 12 Finish your veil with a headdress by The British School of Millinery. Bridport Hat Festival 17 2015 hat making competition winners. Letter to the Editor 19 Tips for preparing felt for blocking. The Back Page 20 New HATalk Competition and how to contact us. Cover/Back Pages: 1 www.hatalk.com Hats by Emma Yeo Headonism at London Fashion Week ©Emma Yeo 2 www.hatalk.com Headonism was created by the Since its inception, the Headonism British Fashion Council to celebrate scheme has supported milliners such and support fresh UK millinery as Awon Golding, Lizzie McQuade, talent. Launched by Mayor Boris Noel Stewart, Piers Atkinson and Johnson in 2009, the project, which William Chambers. Each Spring, is curated by renowned milliner new members are recruited through Stephen Jones, showcases the a stringent application process. work of a small group of hand- Only candidates who are based in picked milliners within a dedicated the United Kingdom, have been installation at the biannual London running their millinery business for Fashion Weeks. less than six years, have experience with production and sales and have “Headonism is the UK’s leading a minimum of two stockists are platform to generate interest and considered. Shortlisted applicants promote Britain’s most emerging are vetted by a panel of industry millinery talent,” says Caroline Rush, experts which includes members CEO of the British Fashion Council. of the media, fashion buyers, “The platform provides designers representatives of the British Fashion with support and development Council and Stephen Jones. ©Harvy Santos opportunities and champions their unusual and avant-garde millinery unique design aesthetics. It has, Following the interview process, it and are London’s finest.” without a doubt, become one of the was announced that Harvy Santos must see collectives over London and Sophie Beale would be joining Emma Yeo, who has been a member Fashion Week.” Emma Yeo and Keely Hunter to show of Headonism since 2013, has found their work during London Fashion that the project has given her career Week earlier this month. a real boost. “Participation with Headonism has already resulted in “I am delighted that Harvy Santos and a number of exciting opportunities,” Sophie Beale are joining Headonism,” says Emma, “including selling at says Stephen Jones, who mentors a Browns pop-up shop, PR and and supports the members of the showcasing events during Royal group. “They are both wonderful Ascot and a commission with Walt milliners, who have a very distinct Disney to create a mask for the Lone view on what millinery should be and Ranger red carpet premiere.” the talent with which to express it. Our Headonism stalwarts Emma Yeo Read on for designer profiles of the and Keely Hunter are here creating Headonism 2015/16 milliners... ©Sophie Beale 3 www.hatalk.com Jewellery course at the prestigious year of business Emma began to Central Saint Martins. It was here that receive a number of awards including she discovered her passion for fashion Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Award, adornment and applied her design Ascot “Queen’s Hat Award” and the skills to headwear. coveted IT’S NINE YKK award. The latter set her on course to produce her Emma’s 2009 graduate collection AW2011 collection which promptly ‘Predator & Prey’ attracted interest attracted the support of the Arts from the diverse fields of fashion and Council, UK & international press and craft industries. The use of fine, laser- some of the industry’s top designers cut wood is Emma’s signature style. Her including Victor & Rolf, Piers Atkinson, trademark feature is a sophisticated Stephen Jones & Julian Mcdonald. A hybrid-design philosophy, innovatively healthy critical following of online and combining cutting edge technology editorial support developed, including with sympathetic craftsmanship. features in VogueIT.com, Vogue, Volt, Emma tailors complex linear details Another, Dazed & Confused, Icon and and silhouettes into sculptural Portfolio magazine. adornment that effortlessly evoke an ©Emma Yeo ©Emma organic aesthetic. Gaining increasing recognition from the fashion industry, Emma has been Emma has over 5 years experience in working on commissions for both the craft and design industry, working celebrities and arts collectors, even alongside a number of leading attracting enquiries from the film paper artists. She specialises in paper industry. Her work has been worn by Emma Yeo sculpturing for both commercial a growing number of fans, including www.emmayeo.com and art sectors, which has directly fashion icon Lady Gaga and Vogue’s @emma_yeo influenced her refreshingly daring Anna Dello Russo. approach to headwear. Growing After studying Multi Media Textiles success led to Emma’s move to London She was awarded the WGSN Global at Loughborough University, Emma where she set up her studio, soon to Fashion Awards for Emerging Designer moved back to her home town of be picked as ‘one to watch’ (Italian of 2012, the Cockpit Arts ‘Setting Brighton where she started her career Vogue, Timeout and The Times). up Bursary’ in 2013 and has been a creating interior textile installations. In 2010, Emma was selected to Headonism participant for the last two Shortly after, Emma decided to receive business mentoring from years. pursue her interest in fashion. She was the Craft Council and was invited awarded a scholarship from AHRC to exhibit in shows both in the UK Emma’s work is stocked by Love Hats and at to take up a place on the MA Design and internationally. Within her first Alan Journo (Milan). 4 www.hatalk.com Keely Hunter www.keelyhunter.com @keelyhunter Keely Hunter is a London based milliner influenced by architectural lines and shapes. She uses innovative techniques and unique materials to make hats that can only be described as wearable modernity. Alongside her seasonal collections, she also produces a diffusion ready-to-wear line, offers bespoke commissions and regularly participates in designer collaborations and commercial and art projects. Her work to date has appeared in numerous publications – including Vogue Germany (shot by Mario Testino), Vogue UK, Vogue Italia, Glamour Italia, ES Magazine, Grazia, Wallpaper*, Hong Kong Tatler, L'Officiel Thailand and The Mail's You Magazine. In 2014, Keely was named ©Keely Hunter one of Selfridges’ Bright Young Things, the first milliner ever chosen for their ‘next big thing’ designer showcase. SS16 will be Keely’s fifth season as part of the Headonism initiative at London Fashion Week. Keely Hunter Millinery is stocked by The Eternal Headonist (Australia), The Refinery (Hong Kong) and Kadewe (Germany). 5 www.hatalk.com Sophie Beale www.sophiebealemilinery.com @Hatface_Beale Vibrant, captivating headpieces with recently made her Paris Fashion Week a graceful delicacy that plays against debut with AW15. a bold yet carefully considered line, Sophie Beale’s work is conceptual Having worked with a selection of and innovative yet fashion forward, iconic milliners from Noel Stewart to flattering and sophisticated. Philip Treacy, Gina Foster and Jane Taylor, Sophie was head hunted for Sophie was named Britain’s hottest a position in the couture department new milliner in 2012 when she won at Stephen Jones, creating pieces for Grazia’s National Hat Factor. Run in his own collections alongside many of conjunction with the British Fashion the worlds top designers. Council, Philip Treacy and Stephen Jones selected her to be part of this Sophie graduated with a distinction celebration of the best of British from Kensington and Chelsea’s HNC millinery. millinery course in 2011, where she now teaches. Her training also The brand is sold internationally with included study with Rose Cory, once a growing list of high profile clients milliner by royal appointment to the and press coverage, including the late Queen Mother. cover of the Royal Ascot Style Guide 2014, featuring the Strunz Hat. Sophie Sophie Beale Millinery can be found in will be showing as part of London Fortnum and Mason (London) and Valery Fashion Week this September and Demure. ©Sophie Beale 6 www.hatalk.com Harvy Santos www.harvysantos.com @harvy_santosLONDON Harvy Santos describes his signatures as “fearless fashion with unique creations that are entirely handmade using traditional techniques.” His hats and couture headpieces fuse traditional techniques with new materials, and timeless elegance with 21st century fun, attributes which are evident throughout his new Rain, Rein, Reign AW15 collection (right). Harvy’s unique creations are entirely hand made from luxurious materials in his London studio. Born in the Philippines, Harvy began his career as a professional ballet dancer in Hong Kong; he then studied millinery at Kensington and Chelsea College and has worked for The Royal Opera House, Noel Stewart, and Stephen Jones. His classical training, both on stage and in the workshop, continues to inform his elegantly energetic work. ©Harvy Santos Brides Magazine, The Financial Times, Cosmopolitan and W Magazine. Winner of multiple awards for his work, How to Spend it, Vogue Japan, Vogue Harvy was named The HAT Magazine’s Harvy’s label is stocked online by New York’s Hat Designer of the Year in 2013. His Turkey, Vogue Netherlands, Harper’s Suzanne Couture Millinery. hats have appeared in The Telegraph, Bazaar China, Arena Homme Plus, 7 To learn more about Headonism, gowww.hatalk.co to www.britishfashioncouncil.com/headonism m. Hat of the Month by Tracy Chaplin Our October Hat of the Month won the ‘Flowers and Feathers’ prize at the 23rd annual Estivales du Chapeau (Festival of Hats) in Caussade, France this summer.
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