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Issue 115 October 2015 Headonism at LFW Winning Headdress Tutorial and more...

the e-magazine for those who make hats Issue 115 October 2015 Contents: Headonism 2 British millinery at London Week. of the Month 8 Tracy Chaplin’s Estivales du hat. Make a Shoulder Length - Part 3 12 Finish your veil with a headdress by The British School of Millinery. Bridport Hat Festival 17 2015 hat making competition winners. Letter to the Editor 19 Tips for preparing felt for blocking. The Back Page 20 New HATalk Competition and how to contact us.

Cover/Back Pages: 1 www.hatalk.com Hats by Emma Yeo Headonism at London Fashion Week

©Emma Yeo 2 www.hatalk.com Headonism was created by the Since its inception, the Headonism British Fashion Council to celebrate scheme has supported milliners such and support fresh UK millinery as Awon Golding, Lizzie McQuade, talent. Launched by Mayor Boris Noel Stewart, Piers Atkinson and Johnson in 2009, the project, which William Chambers. Each Spring, is curated by renowned milliner new members are recruited through , showcases the a stringent application process. work of a small group of hand- Only candidates who are based in picked milliners within a dedicated the United Kingdom, have been installation at the biannual London running their millinery business for Fashion Weeks. less than six years, have experience with production and sales and have “Headonism is the UK’s leading a minimum of two stockists are platform to generate interest and considered. Shortlisted applicants promote Britain’s most emerging are vetted by a panel of industry millinery talent,” says Caroline Rush, experts which includes members CEO of the British Fashion Council. of the media, fashion buyers, “The platform provides designers representatives of the British Fashion with support and development Council and Stephen Jones. ©Harvy Santos opportunities and champions their unusual and avant-garde millinery unique design aesthetics. It has, Following the interview process, it and are London’s finest.” without a doubt, become one of the was announced that Harvy Santos see collectives over London and Sophie Beale would be joining Emma Yeo, who has been a member Fashion Week.” Emma Yeo and Keely Hunter to show of Headonism since 2013, has found their work during London Fashion that the project has given her career Week earlier this month. a real boost. “Participation with Headonism has already resulted in “I am delighted that Harvy Santos and a number of exciting opportunities,” Sophie Beale are joining Headonism,” says Emma, “including selling at says Stephen Jones, who mentors a Browns pop-up shop, PR and and supports the members of the showcasing events during Royal group. “They are both wonderful Ascot and a commission with Walt milliners, who have a very distinct Disney to create a for the Lone view on what millinery should be and Ranger red carpet premiere.” the talent with which to express it. Our Headonism stalwarts Emma Yeo Read on for designer profiles of the and Keely Hunter are here creating Headonism 2015/16 milliners... ©Sophie Beale 3 www.hatalk.com course at the prestigious year of business Emma began to Central Saint Martins. It was here that receive a number of awards including she discovered her passion for fashion Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Award, and applied her design Ascot “Queen’s Hat Award” and the skills to headwear. coveted IT’S NINE YKK award. The latter set her on course to produce her Emma’s 2009 graduate collection AW2011 collection which promptly ‘Predator & Prey’ attracted interest attracted the support of the Arts from the diverse fields of fashion and Council, UK & international press and craft industries. The use of fine, laser- some of the industry’s designers cut wood is Emma’s signature style. Her including Victor & Rolf, Piers Atkinson, trademark feature is a sophisticated Stephen Jones & Julian Mcdonald. A hybrid-design philosophy, innovatively healthy critical following of online and combining cutting edge technology editorial support developed, including with sympathetic craftsmanship. features in VogueIT.com, Vogue, Volt, Emma tailors complex linear details Another, Dazed & Confused, Icon and and silhouettes into sculptural Portfolio magazine. adornment that effortlessly evoke an ©Emma Yeo organic aesthetic. Gaining increasing recognition from the fashion industry, Emma has been Emma has over 5 years experience in working on commissions for both the craft and design industry, working celebrities and arts collectors, even alongside a number of leading attracting enquiries from the film paper artists. She specialises in paper industry. Her work has been worn by Emma Yeo sculpturing for both commercial a growing number of fans, including www.emmayeo.com and art sectors, which has directly fashion icon and Vogue’s @emma_yeo influenced her refreshingly daring Anna Dello Russo. approach to headwear. Growing After studying Multi Media Textiles success led to Emma’s move to London She was awarded the WGSN Global at Loughborough University, Emma where she set up her studio, soon to Fashion Awards for Emerging Designer moved back to her home town of be picked as ‘one to watch’ (Italian of 2012, the Cockpit Arts ‘Setting Brighton where she started her career Vogue, Timeout and The Times). up Bursary’ in 2013 and has been a creating interior textile installations. In 2010, Emma was selected to Headonism participant for the last two Shortly after, Emma decided to receive business mentoring from years. pursue her interest in fashion. She was the Craft Council and was invited awarded a scholarship from AHRC to exhibit in shows both in the UK Emma’s work is stocked by Love Hats and at to take up a place on the MA Design and internationally. Within her first Alan Journo (Milan).

4 www.hatalk.com Keely Hunter www.keelyhunter.com @keelyhunter

Keely Hunter is a London based milliner influenced by architectural lines and shapes. She uses innovative techniques and unique materials to make hats that can only be described as wearable modernity. Alongside her seasonal collections, she also produces a diffusion ready-to-wear line, offers commissions and regularly participates in designer collaborations and commercial and art projects.

Her work to date has appeared in numerous publications – including Vogue Germany (shot by Mario Testino), Vogue UK, Vogue Italia, Glamour Italia, ES Magazine, Grazia, Wallpaper*, Hong Kong , L'Officiel Thailand and The Mail's You Magazine. In 2014, Keely was named

©Keely Hunter one of Selfridges’ Bright Young Things, the first milliner ever chosen for their ‘next big thing’ designer showcase.

SS16 will be Keely’s fifth season as part of the Headonism initiative at London Fashion Week.

Keely Hunter Millinery is stocked by The Eternal Headonist (Australia), The Refinery (Hong Kong) and Kadewe (Germany).

5 www.hatalk.com Sophie Beale www.sophiebealemilinery.com @Hatface_Beale

Vibrant, captivating with recently made her Paris Fashion Week a graceful delicacy that plays against debut with AW15. a bold yet carefully considered line, Sophie Beale’s work is conceptual Having worked with a selection of and innovative yet fashion forward, iconic milliners from Noel Stewart to flattering and sophisticated. Philip Treacy, Gina Foster and Jane Taylor, Sophie was head hunted for Sophie was named Britain’s hottest a position in the couture department new milliner in 2012 when she won at Stephen Jones, creating pieces for Grazia’s National Hat Factor. Run in his own collections alongside many of conjunction with the British Fashion the worlds top designers. Council, Philip Treacy and Stephen Jones selected her to be part of this Sophie graduated with a distinction celebration of the best of British from Kensington and Chelsea’s HNC millinery. millinery course in 2011, where she now teaches. Her training also The brand is sold internationally with included study with Rose Cory, once a growing list of high profile clients milliner by royal appointment to the and press coverage, including the late Queen Mother. cover of the Royal Ascot Style Guide 2014, featuring the Strunz Hat. Sophie Sophie Beale Millinery can be found in will be showing as part of London Fortnum and Mason (London) and Valery Fashion Week this September and Demure. ©Sophie Beale 6 www.hatalk.com Harvy Santos www.harvysantos.com @harvy_santosLONDON

Harvy Santos describes his signatures as “fearless fashion with unique creations that are entirely handmade using traditional techniques.”

His hats and couture headpieces fuse traditional techniques with new materials, and timeless elegance with 21st century fun, attributes which are evident throughout his new Rain, Rein, Reign AW15 collection (right). Harvy’s unique creations are entirely hand made from luxurious materials in his London studio.

Born in the Philippines, Harvy began his career as a professional ballet dancer in Hong Kong; he then studied millinery at Kensington and Chelsea College and has worked for The Royal Opera House, Noel Stewart, and Stephen Jones. His classical training, both on stage and in the workshop, continues to inform his elegantly energetic work. ©Harvy Santos Magazine, The Financial Times, Cosmopolitan and W Magazine. Winner of multiple awards for his work, How to Spend it, Vogue Japan, Vogue Harvy was named The HAT Magazine’s Harvy’s label is stocked online by New York’s Hat Designer of the Year in 2013. His Turkey, Vogue Netherlands, Harper’s Suzanne Couture Millinery. hats have appeared in The Telegraph, Bazaar China, Arena Homme Plus,

7 To learn more about Headonism, gowww.hatalk.co to www.britishfashioncouncil.com/headonism m. Hat of the Month by Tracy Chaplin

Our October Hat of the Month won the ‘Flowers and Feathers’ prize at the 23rd annual Estivales du Chapeau (Festival of Hats) in Caussade, France this summer. We asked Tracy Chaplin, its maker, to tell us about this effortlessly chic ...

What materials did you use? Parasisal straw, Guipure , Swarovski crystals, handmade silk velvet flowers and coque feathers.

Is it based on a specific flower? The design evolved naturally, I wasn’t inspired by a particular flower.

8 www.hatalk.com with a beaded stamen. The coque feathers were cut by hand to create arrow heads and then mounted, with the flowers, onto a quill. The main structure of the hat was hand-formed and sculpted using two Parasisal straw capelines. The main structure was mounted onto a hand-blocked base that was wired and covered with a bias binding.

How long did it take? The hat took several weeks to make. I first created the individual elements and the design evolved over a six week period. If I was to recreate this hat, it would probably take five days in total.

How many prizes have you won in Caussade? I have won four prizes in total. The third prize on two occasions and last year the ‘Public Prize’ (voted for by the public as their favourite choice). My hat that won the Public Prize was exhibited in Paris, alongside other hats selected by the Hat Magazine from Estivales du Chapeau 2014, at an exhibition which coincided with Paris Fashion Week. Mine won most creative and artistic hat, a prize which was presented by the Hat Magazine. This year, I won in the category ‘Flowers and Feathers,’ which has only one prize.

Did you attend Estivales du Chapeau this year? I attended this year to promote my millinery workshops in France - www.millineryworkshops.com. It's always a Model: Rosie Benn Images: Su Barclay wonderful atmosphere with music and fashion shows Describe the making process for this piece. as well as the millinery village with milliners attending The hat was made completely by hand. I created the from all over the world. It gives milliners the opportunity individual elements first, which included cutting the to promote their work, network with other milliners and Guipure lace to create flowers that were stiffened and experience the French way of life. embossed with crystals. The flowers were then mounted on a wire with a central beaded section. The silk flowers The rest of the winners from Estivales du Chapeau were handmade using silk velvet and mounted on a wire 2015 are pictured on the following pages...

9 www.hatalk.com L’Accordéon - General Category Dandy - Men’s Category Black and White Twist - Special Commission Category by Catherine Ellen (Australia) by Christelle Pontoire (France) by Mio Giulia (England)

Tinker Bell - St Catherine’s Category Tourbillon - Amateur Category Autumn - Felt Category by Sakiko Fujiwara (Japan) by Nathalie Ecotière (France) by Matthew Eluwandé (England)

10 www.hatalk.com Queen of Night - Public Category The Vision - Straw Category Bluesdot - Wool Felt Category by Natalia Borisova () by Meta Leefkens (The Netherlands) by Ariane Mariane-Aschères (France)

Dove - Show Hat Category Flame - The HAT Magazine Category Plum Pidou Whoua - Schools Category by Sonia Proença Rodriguez-Lamorlaye (France) by Wendy White (Australia) by Collège St Antoine Students (France)

11 For more information,www.hatalk.co go to www.chapeau-caussade.fm r. How to Make a Shoulder Length Mantilla Veil ~Part 3~ A tutorial by Denise Innes-

The British School of Millinery

To finish off your mantilla veil with a pretty tea rose headdress, you will need: • 3 organza tea roses • Wire cutters • Metal hair comb (8cm) • Flat nosed pliers • 0.8mm wire for frame • Needle - Milliners/Straw (size 3) • 0.4mm wire for binding • Invisible thread • 0.2mm wire for stitching • Tape measure • 0.1mm x 15mm tight knit knitted wire • Glass-headed pins

12 www.hatalk.com The basic mantilla veil, which you created in Issue 113, is elegant and simple. If a is looking for something a little fancier, however, you can adapt it by adding the beautiful tea rose headdress pictured on the previous page...

Making the Roses

A B

You will need to make three tea roses using the instructions featured in Issue 114. This time, you are going to make different sized roses. Print out this page and cut out the patterns above to use as a cutting guide. Cut out five B petals to make one large tea rose and ten A petals to make two smaller ones (with five petals each). Make up the roses in exactly the same way as you did for the veil and then set them aside.

13 www.hatalk.com Extending the Comb

Cut a 25cm piece of 0.8mm wire with wire cutters. Bind the join with 0.4mm wire, wrapping evenly Bend the wire to make a frame to attach to the and neatly and pushing together any gaps. top of the comb, leaving a 5cm overlapping join. Continue to for an extra 5mm past the join and then cut off the 0.4mm wire with wire cutters and smooth the join with flat nosed pliers.

Cover the wire frame with knitted wire. Turn each open end of the knitted wire tube inside itself for a safe, neat finish. For extra help on working with knitted wire, see Denise’s tutorial in Issue 85.

14 www.hatalk.com Use pins to secure the knitted wire to the frame, Using the same wire thread, overstitch the frame thread your needle with 0.2mm wire and then to the comb, placing the joined piece of frame overstitch the frame to the knitted wire. under the bar of the comb.

Stitch the roses onto the wire frame, placing the The headdress comb is placed in the hair behind larger rose in between the smaller two. Once the veil comb. Thin or very straight hair should attached to the comb, adjust the petals until you be backcombed first for extra security. You can are happy with how they are positioned. also put crossed clips under the hair to help the

15 www.hatalk.cocombsm to grip. As the headdress is on a separate comb, it can be worn as part of the veil during the ceremony and then on its own during the reception - a great option for many brides.

Upcoming British School of Millinery Courses

29th - 31st October, 2015 Ziferblat, Manchester (UK) Making 1) A crash course in tiara making 2) Using knitted wire fabric 3) Wired lace and hair-vines

7th - 12th December 2015 The BSM Studio, Cheltenham (UK) Complete Week: This 6-day course is designed to equip you to start a bridal accessories business. Students can expect to make 5-6 items. Class size will not exceed 3 students and notes will be provided. Day 1: Tiara 1 - Tiara techniques Day 2: Tiara 2 - Textured wire headdresses Day 3: Mantilla Day 4: Silk covered headdresses Day 5: Feathered headdresses Day 6: Wired lace headdresses and combs Cost: £85.00 per day or £475.00 per week. Materials: £25.00 for all 6 days.

The British School of Millinery is now an official centre for the new AptEd Level 1 & 2 Traditional Felt and Straw Millinery qualifications, which were developed by Denise and her team. To find out more about taking or teaching these qualifications, or to book BSM short courses, email [email protected] or go to www.thebritishschoolofmillinery.com.

16 www.hatalk.com 2015 Competition Winners

It was another great year for the Bridport Hat Festival, a celebration of hats held in the British coastal town of Bridport each September. With street entertainment, live music, trade stalls, hat related talks and demonstrations, the 2015 Festival attracted more hat lovers than ever.

This year’s Bridport Milliners and Hatters Open Competition was judged by Isabelle Mazzitelli and Janie Lashford. To determine the winners, the two judges used a points system to mark each entry, specifically focusing on the following criteria: - Creativity and originality - Workmanship and degree of difficulty - Proportion, balance and colour - Quality of the skills shown - Visual appeal and impact

After tallying the scores, the judges revealed that first place would go to Tamsyn Brocks, with her stunning sinamay Wild Digitalis (right) hat. Tamsyn, whose piece was inspired by England’s Lake District, was awarded a cash prize, sponsored by Snooks the Hatters, of £500. Model: Natalie Amor Image: Patricia Snook 17 www.hatalk.com Stefania Bruno came in second, with a felt hat based on a World War 1 (below left). Stefania won a £250 prize, sponsored by the organisers of the Bridport Hat Festival. In third place was Lorna Fraser, who used her signature heart design to create a hat for the competition (below right). Lorna was given a prize of £125, which was donated by Aspect Counselling Services.

Model: Stacy Snook Image: Patricia Snook Model: Natalie Amor Image: Patricia Snook

To learn more about the Bridport Hat Festival and their annual hat making competition, visit www.bridporthatfest.org or follow the Festival on Facebook and Twitter.

18 www.hatalk.com Send us your questions and comments! Do Letters to the you have a problem needing a solution? Or information that you’d like to share? Editor... Email us! [email protected]

Question: I find it really hard to stretch felt over a hat block - do you have any tips?

Answer: Felt hat bodies are made out of kettle, iron or fabric steamer. Steam and block immediately. For an even condensed fur or wool fibres which is extremely effective, getting deep more thorough steaming, felt can be have been tightly matted and into the individual fibres, but it can ‘cooked’ inside a pressure cooker for pressed together. When exposed to take a long time to fully and evenly 20-30 minutes. water and heat these natural fibres dampen a large felt hat body over a become easier to stretch, so taking small stream of steam. Plus, it is very However you decide to dampen your time to thoroughly dampen felt hard not to burn your fingers! felt prior to blocking, it is important to before blocking will make a huge keep applying steam, using a kettle, difference to your experience and For a less messy, ‘hands off’ approach iron or steamer, at regular intervals results. to preparing your felt for blocking, throughout the blocking process to you can use a common household keep the material supple. Hat makers use various techniques to item - a stainless steel tiered steamer prepare felt for blocking. Some like (right). Simply put some water in the to fully immerse felt in warm water, pan, place the felt in the steaming soaking it for about half an hour, basket and put the basket inside before stretching it over a hat block. the pan with the lid on. Steam the This method works well but can be felt over a medium to high heat for messy as the dripping felt will need about 30 minutes, making sure that to be wrung out when removed from you have added enough water so the water. that the pan does not boil dry. When finished, remove the felt from the Others prefer to dampen felt by basket (being very careful not to burn holding it over the steam from a hot yourself), wring out any excess water

19 www.hatalk.com The Back Page

2015 Hat Making Competition Transition Visit www.hatalksocial.com for all the details.

Contact Us! Questions? Comments? Email us at [email protected] or post on our Facebook, Twitter or HATalk Social pages and we’ll be sure to get back to you.

20 www.hatalk.com 21 www.hatalk.com