577 Morella Benicàssim Valencia POP: 2.2 MILLION POP: La Albufera

( p605 ), Valencia Valencia AVE SUMMER TEMP: HIGH 32°C, HIGH SUMMER TEMP: AVE LOW 19°C Albufera ( p593 ) La ( p608 ) from afar p608 ( Morella Las Fallas ( p586 ), Las Fallas Europe’s wildest ( p581 ) in the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciudad de las Artes y las ) in the p581 ( freshwater lake freshwater Festival Internacional de Benicàssim Internacional Festival City Ocea- Ciencias, and immerse yourself in the aquarium largest nogràfic, Europe’s fortress town of rivation at spring festival music Benicàssim’s outdoor international festival

and shake your booty at Bring your tent of Gasp at the daring architecture Savour your first glimpse of the medieval Fling fireworks and suffer serious sleep dep- and suffer Fling fireworks trip on a sunset boat Take AREA: 23,255 SQ KM

HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

Valencia is both of , and distinct from Spain. In Muslim hands for five centuries, its centuries, is both of Spain, and distinct from Spain. In Muslim hands for five Valencia spring festival the wild Las Fallas for its nightlife, capital, is famed City, the region’s Valencia To the north, along the Costa del Azahar (Orange Blossom Coast), is a string of low-key

In 2005 more than five million overseas visitors chose the Comunidad Valenciana (Valencia Valenciana chose the Comunidad visitors million overseas than five In 2005 more destination. Most descend upon the resorts as their holiday strip, of the thin coastal region) enterprising more City. The trip to Valencia they stay put – except, perhaps, for a day where rich interior. the region’s and explore behind the coastal hedonism a bike or car, leave rent its neighbour to the north, as much by Catalonia, history has been shaped Christian European the mother and and yellow stripes of Catalonia flag bears the red region’s The as by Castilla. a dialect of Catalan. tongue of many is Valenciano, it’s the time of writing, At Ciudad de las Artes of its Ciencias. y las and the stunning architecture race in 2007. yacht spotlight again when it hosts the America’s Cup scheduled to be in the Coast) Southwards along the Costa Blanca (White of Sagunto. resorts,the historic site plus and party resorts You can bar-hop such in international finest beaches. some of Spain’s stretch Others, such as Denia and capital of . provincial and the lively as , mountains lies another world where Inland Spanish flavour. more a much Gandia, still retain girtby its intact medieval walls; Xàtiva, Morella, buckle and castles crown the hilltops: there’s palm groves. most extensive with its own splendid castle; and , with Europe’s V a l e n c i a lonelyplanet.com

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C del Pintor Salvador Abril Eduardo Bosca Calle de Alicante ENTERTAINMENT Avenida de Giorgeta Bailén Albatros...... 22 E2 Gran Vía de33 las Germanías C Jesús 35 3 Babel...... 23 E3 Calle Sueca Calle Jardines del Burrania C del Escultor José Capuz Black Note...... 24 E2 Calle de Albacete Alcalde Reig Caribbean's...... 25 E2 Calle del To Hotel Neptuno (2km); ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈCalle de las Filipinas Ὀ Cormorán...... 26 C4 28 Malvarrosa (2km); lonelyplanet.com Deseo 54...... 27 C1 Turia Playa de las Arenas (2km); Port (2km) Dub Club...... 28 B4 Jesús Calle San Vicente Mártir 11 4 El Loco...... 29 B2 26 Avenida Peris y Valero 9 Palau de la Música...... 30 E3 4 8 Palau de les Artes Reina Sofía...... (see 11) To El Romani & Rumbo 144...... 31 F2 Bananas (16km); To Playa 2 Warhol...... 32 F2 Alicante (165km); El Salér (10km); 10 Av de la ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈAlbacete (184km) Plata La Albufera (15km) ὈὈὈ airport arrivals area. arrivals airport 2pm Sun);TrainStation(Map p582 ) Alsohasabranchatthe p582 19; ; PlazadelaReina tions 902100031;www.cac.es; Autovía aElSaler;combined information, ortrytheEnglishsite. The mainsiteismultilingualandincludessomeEnglish excellentofficialsite. The Valencia authority’s tourism Querol s/n; % 11.30am-2pm Sun)AttheTeatro Principal. Region ofValencia Region Resources Internet lonelyplanet.com water sloshingaround tofill15Olympic-size aquariums of thiswatery world have sufficient h be the Oceanogràfic if youhave youngchildren, willprobably one, allwithoptionalEnglishcommentary. showin IMAXcinemaandlaser planetarium, site inNewYork. new WorldTradeCenter terminalthe world,transportation for among manyotherexcitingcreations around architect designerof,Santiago Calatrava, Turia riverbed. It’smostlytheworkof local a massive 350,000-sq-metre swathof theold adult/child€29.90/22.40) forall3attractions ticket las Ciencias The aestheticallystunning ylasCiencias Ciudad delasArtes &ACTIVITIES SIGHTS office tourist Bureau Valencia Convention office tourist Regional office tourist Diputación (Provincial) tourist information(atpremium rates). Call Information Tourist postoffice Main Post Duna Viajes Money its contents. tion hasapamphletinEnglish summarising interactive where sciencemuseum each sec- best informedoffice. Calle Paz 48; p8 autcid €7.50/5.80; adult/child p580; Amorós 88) Represents American Express. American Amorós 88)Represents 315 39 31; www.turisvalencia.es) 315 3931;www.turisvalencia.es) The highlight of The highlight the complex,especially The The 10am-6pm or8pmSep-Jul, 10am-midnight Aug). 96 3514907;www.valenciaterraimar.org; Calle Poeta % Hemisfèric Museo delasCienciasPríncipeFelipe Museo 902 12 32 12 throughout theregion902 1232throughout for h h (City of Arts &Sciences; (City ofArts Mp p580; (Map 9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-2pmSat, 9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2.30pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Fri) The 9am-2.30pm &4.30-8pmMon-Fri) (Map (Map p582 ; PlazadelAyuntamiento) VALENCIA ••Sights&Activities CITY (Map (Map p580 ; adult/child€7.50/5.80) (www.comunitatvalenciana.com) (www.comunitatvalenciana.com) Mp p8 autcid €22/16.60; adult/child p580; (Map % (Map (Map p582 ; h h 96 374 15 62; Calle Cirilo 96 3741562;CalleCirilo 9am-7pm Mon-Sat,10am- 10am-6pm or8pm) Plaza delaReina Ciudad de las Artes y Ciudad delasArtes

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with and askfor ashowing inEnglish. de Campo del Marqués by phoneoratthe and death.Reserve presents Valencia’s life history andthesaint’s inthemultimediashowthat it’s worthtaking chapel isn’tparticularly memorable initself, Vicente. thecryptof Although thisVisigoth as aprisonforthe4th-centurymartyr San 8pm Tue-Sat, 9.30am-2pm Sun) adult/child €2/1,Sat&Sunfree; Mártir remains, Roman,Arab andChristian. newest urbanspace,youcanlookdownonthe p582 ), justeastof the square andValencia’s the archaeological site of irrigation canalsflowingfromit. themain ens withtheirgushingpotssymbolise represents maid- theRíoTuria, whiletheeight The reclining figure inthecentralfountain of governmentseat fortheValencia region. amended –Palau delaGeneralitat handsome 15th-centuryGothic–andmuch of theVirgin, patron of thecity.Opposite isthe Beside it,the Beside thetransparentThrough viewingarea of Mp p582; (Map 37 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 B3 B4 B3 A3 D3 B5 C2 A3 C4 C3 C3 B2 C3 A2 C4 C4 C6 B4 C5 C4 D4 D3 C4 C4 A4 C5 C4 C4 C5 Orange Bikes...... Shop...... Venial...... Teatro Rialto...... (see72) Teatro Principal...... Radio City...... La Marxa...... La Claca...... Jimmy Glass...... Filmoteca...... Xino Xano...... The Lounge...... San Jaume...... Johnny Maracas...... John Silver...... Fox Congo...... Finnegan's...... Cafe-Bar Negrito...... Café SantMiguel...... Café Infanta...... Café delasHoras...... Café delaSeu...... Seu-Xerea...... Palacio delaBellota...... Mattilda...... Las Cuevas...... La Utielana...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING Valencia ClubdeFútbol % Cripta de la Cárcel de San Vicente delaCárcelSanVicente Cripta 96 394 14 17; Plaza del Arzobispo; 96 3941417;PlazadelArzobispo; (Map p582 ), justopposite, was reputedly used h La Almoina(Map 9.30am-2pm &5.30- (Map p582 ), Palacio 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 80 79 78 77 76 75 74 73 72 71 70

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B3 B3 B3 C4 B3 B3 B3 C3 C3 C3 C5 B2 C3 C4 A3 D4 A3 C5 A3 B3 C4 B2 C5 B2 B3 B3 VALENCIA VALENCIA VALENCIA % usually called LosViveros andanother lovely Jardines del Real p580) over amagnificent,ever-patient Lilliputiankidsscrambling playgrounds. See ging andwalkingpaths, lawnsand fountains, of green, amixof playing fields,cycling,jog- the formerriverbed are 9km-long stretches The Parks &Gardens ing the19th-centuryNapoleonicinvasion. byFrenchpockmarks caused cannonballsdur- the youcanstillsee sun.Uphigh, the setting (Map de Quart p582 ) facetowardsMadrid and Turia. Further west,the15th-century 10am-3pm SunOct-Mar) 10am-2pm&4.30-8.30pmTue-Sat, 9.30am-2pm SunApr-Sep, p582; 14th-century preserved, andthenorth,well- main exittoBarcelona all thatremain of theoldcitywalls.Once Two imposing,twin-towered stonegates are deQuart &Torres deSerranos Torres finer building. Modernista now occupiedbyboutiquesandcafés,isaneven million remake. The andperkyafterour andbright itsrecent €11 1928, it’saswirlof smells,movement andcol- coveredModernista market. Constructed in Plaza delMercado; aside timetoprowlthe site, withitsstrikingcolonnadedhall.Andset commodity exchange, nowa World Heritage 4.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat,10am-3pmSun) p582; (Map its era. Popintothe15th-century Gothic two wonderfulbuildings,each amasterpiece of Facing each otheracrossPlazadelMercado are Plaza delMercado and Paterna. local productioncentres of Manises, Alcora the world–andespeciallyof therenowned 10am-2pm Sun) &Sunfree; Sat afternoon Inside, the the atids propupthemainentrancesurroundof A pairof wonderfullyextravagant rocococary- deDosAguas Palacio delMarqués 584 Calle de Cirilo Amorós) Calle deCirilo Reaching downtotheriverbed are the 96 3516392;CallePoetaQuerol2;adult/child€2.40/1.20, Palacio del Marqués deDosAguas Palacio delMarqués admission free; Jardines del Turia (MapJardines delTuria p580 & p582 ) in

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1802, was Spain’s first botanic garden. With 1802, wasSpain’sfirst garden.With botanic de laNave1;admission €1.20; (€0.95, 30minutes). offatElSalérvillage Ciencias.Get Artes yLas de Cánovas andinfrontof theCiudaddelas Sueca,besidePlaza andCalle las Germanias at thebusstop)junctionof GranVíade in summer).Theystop(lookfortheHerca sign .autorcaresherca.com) pine woods. services. 21and22areBuses additionalsummer-only Metro ortheBenimaclet de Fusta junction. tramfromPont 19, 1or2thehigh-speed cos thumpoutthebeatinsummer. Take bus Oneblockback,livelytaurants. bars anddis- promenadeandastringof res-Paseo Marítimo into , eastof thetowncentre, running Malvarrosa Valencia City’s beach isthebroad Beaches garden, it’sashady, tranquilplacetorelax. mature trees andplantsanextensive cactus mission €0.30; currently underconstruction. ing upstream tothenewBiparcdeValencia, adult/child €6/3; Tue-Sat, 10am-8pmSun) adult/child €2/1,Sat&Sunfree; de CienciasNaturales spot forastroll.Withinthemare theMuseo Greco, JuandeJuanes andRibalta. by painting, includingcanvases aissance El ticularly strongon SpanishandFlemish Ren- all major Europeanlanguages. ‘bon voyage’murals –andmosaic wishesin foyer isdecorated and withceramicmosaics main ing. Openedin1917,thetrainstation’s p582 ) isanother impressive build- Modernista puppies andkittens. pet market caged selling birdsandmournful ceramics. OnSunday,theplazabecomesa and bows,clotheslocallymadecrafts donda inthesmallcircular Nearby, stalls belfry oneof thecity’sbest-knownlandmarks. (Map p582 ), itsstriking18th-centurybaroque PlazadelaReinais Off Attractions Other Playa ElSalér The The bijou (Map South of here, theEstacióndelNorte , each borderedPlaya delasArenas bythe (Map p582 bitsandbobs, buttons ) sell Jardín Botánico h h Autocares Herca Autocares delPatriarca Museo , 10kmsouth,isbacked byshady 10am-sunset Tue-Sun) 10am-sunset) buses run hourly (half-hourly runhourly(half-hourly buses

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VALENCIA VALENCIA VALENCIA .hoteljardinbotanico.com; Calle Doctor Peset Cervera 6;s€94- Peset.hoteljardinbotanico.com; CalleDoctor Cervera 588 ingles.solmelia.com; Calle Marqués de Dos Aguas 6; r €82-138; deDosAguasingles.solmelia.com; 6;r€82-138; CalleMarqués www.likeathome.net; CalleLonja4) www.likeathome.net; coming Ad Hocoffers comfortand charm deep hoteles.com; CalleBoix4; s/d €99/119; regularly itasavenue selects foritsguests. de Arte Moderno(IVAM), aneasywalkaway, flair. Understandably, theInstitutoValenciano only 16rooms–hotel isfurnished withgreat (‘Chill Out’istheirslogan),thisintimate – 112, d€94-124; attractively furnished. large (singlesare particularlyroomy)and sively renovated, are Bedrooms willplease. position, thisgrandoldplace,comprehen- If yougoforfadedcharm andfavour acentral www.husa.es; CalleBarcas4;s€82-115,d€93-191; cio delMarqués deDosAguas. the gloriousrococomainentrancetoPala- table. Thecaféandsome bedroomsoverlook bedheads andalarge glass-toppedworking rooms withparquetfloors, dark,stained-wood fied 18th-centurypalace,theHotel Ingléshas nai doubles onthetop,fifthfloor. while paying€10extraforoneof thesuperior breakfast.scrumptious buffet It’swellworth- the bestof aparticularly itspastanddoes made-over, 19th-centurymansion,retains this lovely boutiquehotel, acomprehensively 140; 3;s€80-120,d€90- .hthoteles.com; CalleAbadíaSanMartín downstairs bararea. and welcoming,italsohasasmall,pleasant ing andlavish marblebathrooms.Central renovated hotel have gleamingparquetfloor- €85/97; .hoteles-catalonia.com; CalleBarcelonina5;s/dwithbreakfast summerdiscounts. fat weekend andhigh tofillroomsatweekends andmostoffer struggle Since Valencia isabusinesscentre, bighotels Midrange Indigo YouthHostel Hôme YouthHostel Hostel Hôme Deluxe www.likeathome.net; CalleCadirers 11) www.likeathome.net; www.indigohostel.com; CalleGuillemdeCastro64) Petit Palace Bristol Excelsior Hotel Other recommended budget choices: Ad Hoc Victoria Reina Hotel Jardín Botánico Inglés Hotel nai a VALENCIA ••Eating CITY ) ) Inastylishlyrenovated, much modi- The spaciousroomsatthisrecently Mp p582; (Map na ) Mp p582; (Map Hip, minimalistandfriendly, Mp p582; (Map Mp p580; (Map (Map (Map p582 ; ) (Map (Map p582 ; (Map (Map p582 ; Welcomingandmegacool

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.es; Calle Navarro Reverter 14;rfrom€110; .es; CalleNavarroReverter superb on-site gourmetrestaurant, Tridente. ism withalittlebeach frolicking.Itrunsa ideal choice ifyouwanttomixculturaltour- stylish, ultramodernnewcomer. It’salsoan The Neptuno,overlooking thebeach, isavery .com; Paseo deNeptuno2;s€110-180,d€110-225; pool scarcelybigger thanyourbathtub. modern. There’s andaJacuzzi asauna –anda fuscous andbeige, iscool,confidentandultra- garden), thisboutiquehotel, allblack,white, soft constructed, surroundingatranquilinternal mansions (with18very similarrooms,newly ated bythemerging of twoelegant 19th-century comfort andattentive service. in business,canstillholditsownfortop-end Hotelluxury upstarts, Astoria, almost50years increasingly keen competitionfromyounger €94; with breakfast Fri-Sun Botet5;s/d€110/142,d PlazaRodrigo .hotel-astoria-palace.com; Palace Astoria Hotel Top End beams. ceilings, mellowbrickworkandsolidwooden dour withgreat revealing sensitivity, original restoredbuilding hasbeen toitsformersplen- did smallrestaurant. Thelate-19th-century within theoldquarter andalsorunsasplen- and coffee). (€3.50) and lunches (€8.90including adrink excellent-valuedoes breakfasts continental Jun-Aug) Mon-Fri 24; Mártir En Bandeja Around PlazadelAyuntamiento the port. hundreds Arenas, headforLas just northof rice onlyatlunchtime, whenlocalsintheir noodles instead of rice. Valencianos usuallyeat oven). Thenthere’s its ink)and stock), include to theworld:paella. Otherlocalfavourites and thebasisof thedishValencia exported freshwith delightfully fruitandvegetables. agriculturalplainthatsuppliesthecity coastal Valencia of isthecapital EATING Rice is the staple ofRice isthestaple much – Neptuno Palau delMar arroz negro (ricewithsquid,including arroz abanda(ricesimmered inafish h ( Mp p582; (Map 8.30am-9pm % Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com arroz alhorno(ricebaked inthe This relaxed self-service place This relaxed self-service 96 3567777;www.hotelneptunovalencia Mp p580; (Map Mp p582; (Map pna % apaellamadewith fideuá,

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only browse. h ing wine. both, countonatleast€50perhead,includ- tapas €2.50-7) pizza. Withitsbare, mellowbrickwork,it’san garden of items salad andachoice of or pasta offersyou-can eatbuffet averitable kitchen 6; lonelyplanet.com décor, both themiddaymenú (€16)and the smart restaurant withits modern,clean-lined 4; meals€25; edly tempting. biscuit (oh yes,that’sallonedish) are wick- Greek pistachioandcrunchy yoghurt, gooey as creamed white chocolate, raspberrydelight, ledano 8;meals€25 time menúdeldía awarmly recommendedSpain. Itdoes lunch- features dishesbothinternational androoted in creative, regularly changing àlacarte menu language press articleabout Valencia City.Its favourably quoted English- inalmostevery ner Sat) Almodóvar 4;meals€25; range of tapas. andaptlynamed,carriesahugebasement Las Cuevas Around PlazadelaVirgen Central ket, theMercado p582; h lota Mosén Femades, including food restaurants Calle alongpedestrianised take reservations. it doesn’t exceptional valueformoney.Arrive earlyas the crowds,drawnbywholesomefare and or two’ssleuthing.Very Valencian, itpacksin Utielanawellmeritsaminute track down,La Tucked Prócidaandnoteasyto awayoffCalle dos Aguas 3;meals€12; over.dessert’s you’rethough notencouraged tolinger once agreeable placetodinein(dinnerfrom€9.70), number where such cooljazztrills.Desserts alley besidethecathedral,here’s avery suave h Fresc Co Fresc Burdeos inLove La Lola Seu-Xerea A visittothemagnificentcovered mar- La Utielana There’s acluster of superbupmarket sea- 7.30am-2.30pm Mon-Sat) lunch &dinnerMon-Sat) Mp p582; (Map % dinner daily,lunchSat&Sun) Thissmart,welcomingrestaurant is 96 3529764;CalleMosénFemades 10; Mp p582; (Map Mp p582; (Map Mp p582; (Map h ‘TheCaves’, alow-ceilinged, semi-

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, is a must, even ifyou , isamust,even 96 3918045;SubidadelTo- (Map (Map p582 ; PlazadelMercado; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, din- lunch &dinnerMon-Fri, 96 3529414;PlazaPicadero 96 392 40 00; Calle Conde 96 3924000;CalleConde % 96 391 43 50; Calle Mar 96 3914350;CalleMar Palacio delaBel- Fresc Co’sall- a Upan At this ) . For (Map (Map ner Sat) menús €12,mains€14.60-19; meals €20; back fromthebeach atMalvarrosa andright utes thatplaster thewalls. thephotos andtrib- through courses, browse other luminaries, oncestrutted. Between is where ErnestHemingway, amongmany renowned this foritsricedishes andseafood, and more expensive thanitscompetitors and at yourtable. Grab anorderformasyouenter andfillitin shack offers valueforfresh unbeatable fish. in what’slittlemore thananadornedtin beside thetramstop,thisbusy,informal place Sat&SunNov-Feb)dinner Sat&SunMar-Oct, Eugenia Viñes243;meals€15; in athree-course mealcostingunder€15. upauthenticpaella looking thebeach allserve Arenas,In Las alonglineof restaurants over- Las Arenas particularly good-value lunch There’s animaginative anda àlacarte selection relative newcomer,runbyacheery youngteam. couscous, youwon’twalkoutrumbling. and starters potatoes includingrice,pasta, imaginative dishesanddogreat juices.With reardelightful patio. prepare Staff somevery hastasteful décoranda beyond theBarrio, smartest of Valencia’s vegetarian options,just ifit’son). salad weed of choices plusdailyspecials(goforthesea- floors, itswallselaborately tiled,itoffers lots vegetarian fare forover 25years. Ontwo quality,reasonably priced serving has been 23; meals€15; cake withstewed fruits,adream. ingredients. Saladsare frondyandthecheese- wholesome foodcreated fromqualityprime visiting forthefriendlyatmosphere andgood, vegetable informal,it’sworth Pleasantly tapas. Giner 6;menú€10; La Tastaolletes delCarmen inElBarrio Elsewhere of Spanishreds. and there’s animpressive winelist,especially menú degustación (€36)are excellentvalue v La Pepica La LonjadelPescado Frito Mattilda Ana Eva La Lluna ) This tiny place does acreative Thistinyplacedoes range of The décor is stylish and modern at this The décorisstylish and modernatthis h Mp p582; (Map Mp p582; (Map Mp p580; (Map h ( lunch &dinnerTue-Sat, lunchSun; %

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The 589 VALENCIA VALENCIA VALENCIA bars. Theinterior of Tossal) this bar,which traditionallyattractsamore 1st floorof spills outontothesquare. left-wing, intellectual clientele, thecrowd 35) on thebar,and Caballeros 39) beautiful people:JohnnyMaracas Both have great people-watching terraces. poky passageways, isaltogether more intimate. converted pharmacythat’sallquietcranniesand lers seeking withrevel- themainstreet,Caballeros, seethes haunts andpunkbars. Onweekends, Calle bars andyuppiepubstogrungythrash-metal fromdesigner haseverything ‘El Carmé’ delCarmen Barrio of theport,comesalive. Cánovas; whileinsummer,Malvarrosa, north around theMercado deAbastos andPlazade keep youbusybeyondsunrise. ing streets have bars enough anddiscotecas de AragónandBlascoIbáñezsurround- major area isaroundtheuniversity; Avenidas est andgrooviest collectionof bars. Theother nightlife scenes. fied reputation forhaving oneof Spain’sbest Madrid Valencia andBarcelona, hasajusti- overdeveloped of competitiveness sense with Fuelled byalarge studentpopulationandan DRINKING 590 clad inleatherandsheet-metal. and namedafter themonopodoldpirate hasacoolback-litalabaster barandwalls Plaza del Tossal is rimmed by sophisticated isrimmedbysophisticated Plaza delTossal The Barrio del Carmen hasboththegrungi- delCarmen The Barrio John Silver are Caballeros acoupleofOn Calle bars for Two otherzonesworthchecking outare Cafe-Bar Negrito Cafe-Bar Santa Catalina) and Santa Catalina oftownare Horchateríain theheart de savour. Two traditionalplacestosampleit called which youdiplarge finger-shaped buns made frompressed chufas (tigernuts),into isasweet,opaquelocaldrink HORCHATA is aclutter of cinemamemorabilia. The VALENCIA CITY •• Drinking VALENCIA ••Drinking CITY Horchatería elSiglo bothnameandtastefartons; are to is a suave salsa place with fish tanks isasuave placewithfishtanks salsa San Jaume la marcha (theaction). (Map (Map p582 ; Calle Alta8) . Fox Congo Fox (Map (Map p582 ; PlazaSantaCatalina)

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Vieja 2) Juan 54) Lloréns 49) Drop intomodish surrounding streets are inanotherhiparea. of thetowncentre, JuanLlorénsand Calle conversationaltheir weekly interchanges). where localsandvisitors interact (askabout friendly placewithanInternet terminal is placeforEnglish speakers.popular meeting ofestablished Valencia’s Irish bars, several it’sa of exoticcocktails. music of allgenres, candelabras andalonglist 1) delasHoras Café Areas Other his collectionof dub,reggae andfunk. picksfrom a well-knownDJinhisownright, north of PlazadelTossal. bar), thisplaceistypicalof thecheaper bars (hiswoodenleghangsbehindthe himself at 11pm on Tuesday. sometimes cheesy pop. There’s live flamenco and house good forpost-bar dancingtosalsa, City Radio Clubs and clubs. available bars intouristoffices andselected website hasmuch greater Allfourare detail). (www.thisisvalencia.com) and delCarmen Barrio Carmen hastip-offs about placeswithinthe Valencia (inEnglish) are free monthlies. Hello Valencia atkiosksandnewsagents. in Spanish onsale andQueyDonde are guides La Turia weekly ENTERTAINMENT of congenial neighbours, on thesquare Aroundthecorner,apair itself. (Map p580 ; PlazadeCánovas) Serrano Morales) Serrano or unread copyof James this Joyceinsight, weekends, Radio City hasafree discothat’s weekends, Radio rather tamer, attractsayoungerrather tamer, crowd. with itsancientEgyptian theme. This placeoffers baroque,tapestries, high Near theMercado deAbastos, justwest Finnegan’s Xino Xano Lounge Just eastof thecentre, PlazadeCánovas, A true Irish bar without a false fiddle AtrueIrish barwithoutafalse , strongonSpanish pop;or,foralittle Maruja Limón ; thesmallerMaruja (Map (Map p582 ; SantaTeresa 19; Mp p582; (Map (Map (Map , waittopullyouin. (Map (Map p582 ; PlazadelaReina) (Spanish andEnglish) and p582 ; C p582 ; (Map (Map p582 ; CalleCondedeAlmodóvar and % Anubis is in the same genre isinthesame (its Akuarela alle Alta28) Década Loca 96 3918094;CalleEstameñaría is astylish cornerbar Thisisvalencia Mapazine Mapazine Thisisvalencia (Map p580;CalleJuan34) (Map Abbey Road The genial owner, The genial owner, (Map (Map p580 ; CalleJuan lonelyplanet.com h Mp p8 Calle p580; (Map Mp p8 Calle p580; (Map 11pm-late) Longest Mp p580; (Map 24-7 24-7 Plaza Cool Cool At

attracts apredominantly studentcrowd. is asmallish venue playingeclecticmusicthat lonelyplanet.com for something alittleraw. international students fresh intownandout in allsortsfrom hardened localpartyers to thumpingand pumping,itpulls Raucous, h dance-floor repertoire. ifyoufancyexpanding your flamenco classes the bestlive flamencoin town.Italsogives 11.30pmSunday forsomeofindie. Earmark DJsplayingfunk, hiphopand has nightly 3; .com; CalleSanVicenteMártir more. Tuesdayislive jazzjammingnight. gae (Thursday), dub,drum’n’bass,funkand thisisabarthathasgreatnot noise’, music:reg- 91; the earlybirdat6.15am. andreturnNorte at1.15am, goBananas on take thespecialtrainthatleaves del Estación with aleavening of Forget house. lines: taxi in dancers playingtechno bythethousand, packs partyat,Bananas maxidisco you’llever Romani; show.Thursdaya light isstudentnight. Sat Sep-Jul) plays amixture of hip-hopandR&B. house, Drinks are decentlypricedatthisclub,which local bars. arediscounted passes often available from cas Ibáñez andAvenida deAragón.Most versity area alongandaroundAvenida Blasco Sat) La Claca Dub Club Bananas Rumbo 144 Caribbean’s For more life after 3am,headtotheuni- La Marxa La Marxa Warhol h gay-friendly places,thelatter withalarge, popularterrace. There’s asmall gay rectangle intheBarriodelCarmen where mostoftheenticingvenues beckon. GAY VALENCIA p582; venue. It’salsobigoncabarets andthemenights. and techno musicandaquieter chill-outzone,isfarandawaythecity’smostpopulargaydance through-till-dawn crowdwhere themusic’smainlypopremixes. Across theroadfromRumbo144,Warhol have cover charges of upto€10,although 11pm-3am) Café delaSeu Café Deseo 54 Venial Thu-Sun) h % Thisisafunky,large-floored placewith midnight Fri &Sat) midnight Fri (Map (Map (Map (Map ( 96 392 31 29; Plaza Sant Miguel 13; 96 3923129;PlazaSantMiguel %

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www.dubclubvalencia.com; CalleJesús Mp p582; (Map enida BlascoIbañez111; % % % h Just about themaxiest 96 3917065;CalleCocinas5; ida BlascoIbáñez146; 96 391 73 56; www.venialvalencia.com; Calle Quart 26; 96 3917356;www.venialvalencia.com; CalleQuart 669 325079;www.laclaca 7pm-3.30am) % 96 3915715;CalleSantoCáliz7; h La Claca La discote- h h Tue-Sat) h Wed- Thu- Tue-Sun winter,dailysummer) techno onothernights. sessions and Wednesday toSaturdayand runshouse lena 12) .palaudevalencia.com inSpanish;Paseo.palaudevalencia.com delaAlameda30) Monday. alternate Tuesdays. collection, andlive performers at9.30pmon to listen tocool jazz fromtheowner’svastCD and Saturday. good cannedjazz,bluesandsoulon Friday venue haslive music MondaytoThursday and y Peyrolón 15) Black Note Music Live venue withitsfourauditoriums. overshadowed insizealonebythisbrandnew hosts mainly classical musicrecitals. huge, glass-domedconcerthall,thisvenue the performingarts. 15) Teatro Principal &Opera Theatre Sancho Tello 10) and tros website (www.cinesalbatrosbabel.com): show exclusively undubbedfilmsandshare a in 20years! itsadmissionprice films –andhasn’traised andexperimental undubbed classic,arthouse 4th floorof theTeatro Rialtobuilding,screens untamiento; admission€1.50) Filmoteca Cinemas 00 31;Autovía aElSaler) ThisisValencia’s mainvenue foroperaand Valencia hastwomultiscreen cinemasthat El Loco Jimmy Glass Sofía Reina Palau delesArts Palau delaMúsica h Mp p580; (Map Babel Thisplaceputson live concertsfrom 1.30am Sat) h Mp p580; (Map Mp p582 ; (Map Mon-Sat) Mp p580; (Map Valencia City’smostactive jazz Mp p580; (Map . Admission pricesare loweron % (Map (Map p582 ; CalleBaja28) Mp p582; (Map 96 3932677;PlazaFrayLuis Colomer) is agaydiscoforthestay- h % and

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VALENCIA VALENCIA VALENCIA .alsa.es) 1¾ hours). (€12.70to€14.35, most passing byBenidorm and Alicante (€16.30to€18.55, 2¾hours), (€22.87to €27.76,fourto5½hours)Barcelona to €27,fourhours). to/fromMadrid (€21.10 hourly busservices del Ayuntamiento. Menéndez Pidal.Bus8connectsittoPlaza is located besidetheriverbed on Avenida Valencia’s Bus the ticket online,atthepassengerterminal of senger ferries toMallorca andIbiza. Buyyour -trasmediterranea.es inSpanish) Acciona Trasmediterránea Boat Amsterdam andZurich. destinations such asMilan,Rome,Berlin, major European serve Other economyflights in additiontonationalcarriers BA and Iberia. dailyflyto/fromUKairports, low-cost flights airline buzzedintoValencia. Todayseven Valencia’s Air THERE& GETTING AWAY support theycanget. allthe do take inagame;they’llbeneeding they stillbeupthere bythetimeyouhittown, in andoutof theSpanishfirst division.Should a minnowbycomparison,haslately bounced club’s shop woolly hat,shirt orothermementofromthe cup holders in2004.Youcanpickupascarf, Champions2003and2004UEFALeague soccer team, Valencia ClubdeFútbol,Spanish of theMediterranean, successful hasahighly The city,asfootballcrazyanyothercorner Football only whenthere’s agig. couple of auditoriumsontwofloors, it’sopen bring inthebignamesof popandrock.Witha 200) Mártir 592 travel agency. in thedirection of Madrid. is 10kmwestof thecitycentre alongtheA3, Valencia’s otherprofessional club, Levante, Cormorán AutoRes Less thanfiveLess years ago,notonebudget dePoniente Muelle hasmore to/from than10dailybuses VALENCIA There &Away ••Getting CITY Cormorán ( % deManises Aeropuerto bus station (Calle Pintor Sorolla24) Mp p580; (Map 902 020999;www.auto-res.net) has thepullingpowerto % ALSA (

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Bureau vention every 20minutes)every leaves fromastopoutside town andport.Aero-Bus (€2.50, 20minutes, extended and willconnecttheairport,down- The number5metrolineiscurrently being To/From theAirport restaurants. shops and discounts atparticipatingsights, days) area) (arrivals Mon-Sat, 10am-2pmSun);TrainStation Plaza delaReina services. villages. Touristofficesstockmapsforboth outlyingtownsandwhile MetroBus serves metro network.EMT plytownroutes, buses Valencia has anintegrated bus,tramand AROUND GETTING 30 minutes). (€3.65, uptoonehour)viaSagunto(€2.40, (€21.40 to€24.50,1¾hours). hours). UptoninetrainsheaddailyAlicante, (€31.80to€37,3¼four least 11toBarcelona to/from Madrid (€40.60,3½to4¼hours) andat to10Alarisexpressseven trainstravel daily From Valencia’s delNorte Estación Train between Calle XàtivaandtheGran Vía. Calle between of covering all, nearthetrainstation, thearea Reina andAlfonso elMagnánimo and,biggest subterranean carparksbeneath Plazasdela Street parkingis a real pain.There are large &Motorcycle Car able townbikes. cycle. this isalsoagoodplacetobuysecond-hand initiative of ayoungAnglo-Valenciano couple, andelectricbikesper week) (€15perday).The Calle SantaTeresabikes.net; 8) Orange Bikes Bicycle originating attheairport). of €2.50above themetered fee forjourneys centre costsaround€15(there’s asupplement intothe south of Ataxi themaintrainstation. andterminateslevel just besidemetroBailén, the departures area ontheairport’supper to €12perday,€24weekend, €45to€55 rents bikes outmountain andtownbikes (€9 Trains run every half hour to Castellón halfhourtoCastellón Trains runevery The three touristofficesof the ,

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from Valencia Cars airportincludeJavea 352 2478). and ( airport lonelyplanet.com El Perellonet (hourly), furtherdownthe coast. tinue toeither ElPalmar (five daily)or toseven ( p584 Albufera) are andcon- alsogoodforLa dishes. seafood paellaand otherriceand restaurant, serving in thevillages of the birthplaceof paella. Every house second fromthe shallowwaters. fishandeels harvest flat-bottomederfolk, whouse boatsandnetsto a boattriponthelagoon,joininglocal fish- their migrations. poston than 250othersitasastaging use around 90speciesregularly nestwhilemore flock tothe Parque NaturaldelaAlbufera,where and indigenous birds. Keen bird-watchers breeding formigrating groundandsanctuary and pineforests. Thelake anditsshores are a anarrowstripof Devesa, dunes sand byLa sea a huge freshwater fromthe lagoonseparated About 15kmsouthof Valencia, Albufera is La Albufera La AROUND VALENCIA CITY ( Call Taxi de Fusta. ColónandPont Xàtiva (forthetrainstation), tothecentre stations closest are Ángel Guimerá, Benimaclet. orwhereFusta itintersects withtheMetro at ArenasLas andtheport.PickitupatPontde way toget tothebeach, paellarestaurants of pass; €3.10)ora10-tripBonobus (€5.20)pass. T1(one-day €1.10. Tobacconists andkioskssell routes untilaround1am.Asinglejourneycosts continuingonseven services 10pm, withnight Most Transport Public .victoriacars.com) www.solmar.es) 579 3312;www.javeacars.com) less expensive thanthemajor companies. % Major car-hire companiesincludeEuropcar Autocares Herca forPlayaElSalér buses Albufera was Surrounded byricefields,La canbespectacular.The sunsets Youcantake theouterMetro suburbs.The linesserve The smart high-speed tram is a pleasant tramisapleasant The smarthigh-speed 96 3571313) Avis Radio-Taxi % EMT ( airport 96 1521872);trainstation/town Reliable localcompaniesoperating ( % Cars andVictoria . Theyare usuallysubstantially % 96 3528399) .

( % VALENCIA ••AroundValencia City CITY 96 1522162);trainstation/town( El Palmar isa andElPerellonet 96 3703333) , buses run until about rununtilabout buses Solmar ( % orValencia Taxi ( ( 96 5830254;www % % 96 1539042; 96 3519055) ( % % 96 96

and Sagunto(€2.40/3.90oneway/return) and There are frequent Valencia trainsbetween THERE&AWAYGETTING Sagunto’s longhistory. each speakofsections adifferent periodin Mostly inruins,theramblingcomplex’sseven Sun) complex three-week, open-airAugust andit’sthemainvenuestanding for Sagunto’s is controversial buttheacousticsremain out- to the . Itsmodern‘restoration’ Romantheatre Judería, theformerJewish quarter –bringsyou 10-minute uphillwalk–detourintothesmall 9.30am-1.30pmSat,9am-2pmSun) Mon-Fri, .com; PlazaCronistaChabret; office to thetourist aboutrebuildingset it. Rome won,namedthetownSaguntumand andRome. Carthage ond PunicWarbetween and theirtowndestroyed,sparkingtheSec- wereThe inhabitants wipedout eventually nibal besieged months. thetownforeight with Greeks In219BC andPhoenicians. Han- –Arse)thattraded licitously, withhindsight a thrivingIberiancommunity(called–infe- excursion fromValencia.half-day castle complex.It’susuallyvisited asadayor ofand green orange sea groves fromits hilltop panoramaofthe spectacular thetown,coast 25km northof Valencia, primarilytoenjoy You cometoSagunto(Valenciano: Sagunt), pop 61,800 Sagunto

Higher up,thestonewallsofHigher the it’sa15-minuteFrom thetrainstation walk spot,Saguntowasonce Nowadays asleepy venerable central PlazadelOlmo, over whichtowers a each about12km long, thatradiate from ing oneofthefour signed Valencians, thenstretch yourlegsbyfollow- villas, builtduringthe19thcenturybyrich charming tiledandpastel-painted ing withfountainsandsprings. Savourthe by cypress, pineandpalmtrees andspurt- to theattractive villageof Navajas, shaded beside orchards,almondandolive groves asigned right todrivethe mainN234,take oftheSegorbeturn-offon About 2kmnorth NAVAJAS girdlethehilltopforalmostakilometre. (admission free; olmo (elm), planted in1635. h ( % 10am-dusk Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm h 96 2662213;www.sagunt 8am-3pm & 4.30-6.30pm 8am-3pm &4.30-6.30pm walking trails, walking arts festival. arts . A further . Afurther summer

castle

593 VALENCIA VALENCIA VALENCIA hourly) fromValencia’s busstation. 5-7pm Tue-Sun) Fri, 10am-2pmSat,10.30am-1.30pm Sun) Fri, Blasco3; .org; CalleMarcelino jumbled and irregular withtwistingstreets and Valencia, nucleus, rearsVilla, itsmedieval La From theheartof Requena,71kmwestof 690m pop 20,100/elevation Requena walls of spectators. twohuman Colónbetween bulls downCalle tember, skilled horsemen guideandprodthe daysinthefirst halfofat 2pmforseven Sep- (Entryof BullsandHorses). Prompt y Caballos still springseternal. offountain LaEsperanza (Hope),fromwhere it healthy hunkremains, water brought fromthe del Botxí.The fate worse, lived waseven nearbyinthe while thetownexecutioner, whose forthose asthetown’slock-up foratimeserved Carcel a pairof dela cylindricaltowers. TheTorre altarpieces. colourfuland ChildbyDonatello andseveral siastical museum more delicate Gothiccloister isafineeccle- baroque a substantial 33kmnorthwest of Sagunto,hasSegorbe, 395m pop 8500/elevation Segorbe AVSA 594 municipal carpark. The isrenowned foritsEntradadeToros Segorbe At thewestern cornerof theoldtown is back intheafternoon. clothes. Mostpeoplecomefortheday,arrivingonmorningtrainfromValencia andheading The placeonthetown’smainsquare mayhemtakes andCalle delCid. anarchictomatobattle.in afrenzied, cheerful, is oneestimate) are tippedoutto hourorsoeveryonethe waitingcrowd,andfornext joins visitors toatownofjust9000inhabitants. 40km westofValencia City, orgy around30,000La Tomatinaisatomato-throwing thatattracts and mostbizarre festivals. HeldinthetownofBuñol,anotherwisedrabindustrialabout youseered.Buñol? It’llmake

( You can watch the spectacle in dry comfort on Canal 9, Valencia’s local TV channel. onCanal 9,Valencia’s indrycomfort You canwatchthespectacle localTV At dontheirstashoffresh 1pmanexplosionsignalstheendanddrenched participants After tobesluiceddownwithhosesbythelocalfire beingpoundedwithpulp,expect brigade. Just before noononthisvery red-letter day,truckloadsofripe,squishytomatoes(125,000kg The lastorpenultimate WednesdayinAugust (thedate varies)marksoneofSpain’smessiest % VALENCIA ••AroundValencia City CITY tourist office tourist 96 2671416) with asculpture of theVirgin , of which a aqueduct medieval (adult/child €3/2; runs a service (€2,atleast runsaservice ( % h 964 713254;www.segorbe cathedral. Withinits 9am-2pm &4-6pmMon- h isbesidethe 11am-1.30pm & Torre Torre de laVendimia isanother hearty bacchanal, Requena’sFiestalate August/early September, of roastpork.In and25,000servings sausage 2005, visitors gobbled uparound10,000kgof the and rich hunksof sausage and spicymeats. sparkling livestock country,producingrobust reds, producer. Nowadaysit’sprimarily wine and making thistinytownSpain’s4th-biggest from silk;atonetimeithad800active looms, blind alleys.Requena’sformerwealthcame Tpe ad Dalí. and Tàpies ish artists, including Picasso, Miró, Sempere, 11am-2pm Sun) 2; adult/child€3/2; Contemporáneo Arte the town’snew andPalacio Guild House) delCid,soontohouse such asthe andsturdynoblemen’s mansions main portal, each withamagnificentifmuch weathered Gothic del Homenaje.Withinthetownwallsare the passing bythe10th-century Muslim Enter the old quarter fromitsnorthernside, SIGHTS Villa. guide toLa of itsSensaciones para , auseful Descubrir &Sat) 2pm &4-7pmFri Montéss/n; Calle García celebrating the endof thegrape harvest. to theoldtown.Ask fortheEnglishversion Requena’s recently inaugurated The weekend inFebruaryThe second marks Muestra delEmbutido,theSausage Show; in Muestra tourist office tourist Santa María andSanSalvadorchurches Santa María cavas Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com (Silk delaSeda Mayor delArte Casa has canvases mainly bySpan- has canvases (Spain’s rivaltochampagne), wine museum. h h isbelowthemainentrance ( ( % 11am-2pm &5.30-9pm Tue-Sat, % 9.30am-2pm Tue-Thu &Sun,9am- 96 2303851;www.requena.es; 96 2303032;Cuestadel Ángel lonelyplanet.com Museo de Museo Torre Torre , Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com interlinked cellars,asstorerooms onceused la Villa,hidesinitsintestines anetworkof old town,PlazaAlbornoz and afew Romanfuneraryremains. Inthe bourgeois andcountrydwelling townhouse tion of traditionalcostumes,re-creations of a sistorial; lonelyplanet.com and hearty mountain cooking. and hearty mountain the Maestrazgo, offer great walking, solitude especially thewild, sparselypopulated landsof hinterland,is only80kmsouth). Thehigh Valencia’sleast because international airport (not byenvironmentalists hemently opposed airport.ScheduledCastellón’s for2008,it’sve- rapidly inanticipationof theinaugurationof you’re afterThey’re sunandsand. expanding resortsharmoniously –seaside are enticingif its name. –notalways Thebusy,developed headilyscented flowerswhose theregion takes blossom coast–spread orange groves, from delAzahar–theorangeInland fromtheCosta COSTA DELAZAHAR from Valencia. trains(€3.65,1½hours)eight rundailyto/ More (€3.90,onehour)and than12buses THERE&AWAYGETTING its antiqueair. Plaza Albornoz15;s/d€45/70) and Albornoz 8;s/d€36/55; rooms 962300374;www.hotellavillarestaurante.com; Plaza inaugurated options, each withagoodrestaurant. Recently with viewsof thesquare. Villaalsokeeps ninedecentrooms,some La façade) toturnthescrews onheretics. Mesón thePapalquisition (see coatof armsonthe bythelocalbranch ofbriefly used the In- theirs (admission€1),hosts toletyousee €8.50 to€15.50,menú€9.50)andaskyour If youcan’tvisitthecellars, dinehere (mains 74; www.hotelmesonlavilla.com; PlazaAlbornoz13;s/d€32/52) LaVilla Mesón SLEEPING &EATING & 6pmFri-Sun) child €3/2; and, duringstrife, hideouts.Guidedvisits eastern sideof thesquare. The Also onthesquare are twootherattractive Hôtel DoñaAnita; Hôtel h Municipal Museo h 11am-2pm Tue-Sun) 11am, noon&1pmTue-Sun plus4.15pm,5pm descend fromtheentranceon Hôtel La Villa LaVilla Hôtel ( % COSTA DELAZAHAR ••CastellóndelaPlana restaurant 962301275,rooms03 a ( ) % , run by the same family, , runbythesame ,

a newbuildingdespite (adult/child €3/2;PlazaCon- 96 2305347;www.tubal.net; , ( alsocalledPlazade % has arich collec- restaurant 962301275,

(adult/

basic s/d/tr€18/30/45) bar carries agreat range of tapas. restaurant Sunday).The (menú€7.50; closed spotless roomsabove acosy,family-run bar- Hostal LaEsperanza Sleeping &Eating beachesnorth of Castellón’s start fleet. here. trial region’s exportsaswellthelocalfishing , aharbourthathandlesthisindus- de Castellón war andnowrestored toitsoriginal state. , shattered inthecivil deSantaMaría Concatedral thetowerisreconstructedthe city.Beside belltowerandsymbolof(1604), anoctagonal ered market, thruststhelongfinger of ElFadrí 18th-century townhallandthebustlingcov- by 10 magnificentcanvases Zurbarán. region’s major industry,butthereal stars are impressive reflecting ceramicssection, the premises. Itsdisplaysincludealarge and Mon-Sat, 10am-2pmSun) nida HermanosBou28;admissionfree; The Sights office tourist Main of downtown. theportarea,Grau deCastellón, is4kmeast northwest, beyondleafyParque Ribalta.El tions –oneabove theother–are about 1km Busandtrainsta- the visitorinCastellón. Clara, formthenucleusof whatmatters to Plaza Mayor and,justtoitssouth,PlazaSanta &Information Orientation of thisprosperouscommercialtown. ifyoupenetrate totheheart surprise pleasant trial andrambling,sothecentre comesasa delaPlana)areciano: Castelló grim,indus- The outskirtsof delaPlana(Valen- Castellón pop 167,500 CASTELLÓN DELAPLANA Vinaròs. andsixatBenicarló/PeñíscolaOropesa and three attrains dailycallatBenicàssim, delaPlana.hour toCastellón Uptoseven towns. FromValencia, half trainsrunevery the coastandregional trainsstopatallmain The Valencia railway follows toBarcelona &Away There Getting Agustina 5; 4-7pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun,4-7pm Mon-Fri 10am-2pmSatyear-round) Four kilometres eastof thecentre isElGrau From PlazaMayor, bordered bytheearly deBellasArtes Museo h 9am-7pm Mon-Fri Jul-Aug,9am-2pm& 9am-7pm Mon-Fri ( Thiswelcoming hostal has

% ( % occupiesaward-winning 964 35 86 88; Plaza María 964 358688;PlazaMaría 964 22 20 31; Calle Trinidad 37; 964 222031;CalleTrinidad ( % 964 727500;Ave- h 10am-8pm 595

VALENCIA VALENCIA VALENCIA €55; .com; CalleHerrero 20;rMon-Thu &Aug from€73.50,Fri-Sun of andcivic buildingsin whitewashed houses office tourist contemporary paintingsand sculpture. The eclecticcollectionof isahighly its ownright, century Palacio worthavisitin delaBailía, h ( is itsexcellent side town26kmnorthof delaPlana, Castellón What drawsvisitors toVilafamés, a tinyhill- pop 1700 Vilafamés AROUND CASTELLÓNDELAPLANA with thetowncentre. and more frequent. trainstend tobebothswifter for Benicàssim, both Valencia andresorts tothenorth,except outfromPlazaFadrell. set for Benicàssim For 300m southof PlazaMayor. Frequent buses beaches to itsnorthleave fromPlazaBorrull, ( thebusstation use services Long-distance &Around There Getting in thetoilets. A nicetouch: thefresh mintsprigsandflowers toreserve. discerning locals,andyou’dbewise plus thefreshest It’spopularwith of seafood. breviated Arropes (fromArroz –riceandPes –ab- €25, mains€11-17; infreshalso specialises fish. AmadeoI8 for meatdishes. TheoneatCalle town, allbusyandexcellentvalue,especially Tetuán 26) 33; CalleSanchisAbella4); 25 0966;CalleAmadeoI8); SanchisAbella( for €8.70. three-course 4.30pm Mon-Fri; which are aparticularbargain. fi access,parkingfor€9,andweekend rates, give bothrestaurant andbar. There’s alsowi- spaciouscentralatrium,ontowhicha bright, cheerful fromthemomentyouenter. There’s at Plaza del Ayuntamiento 2. at PlazadelAyuntamiento 596 % % Arropes Navarro Mesón Julivert InturCastellón Hotel Local bus 9 connects bus and train stations Local bus9connectsandtrainstations The small oldtownisanagreeable clutter 10am-1.30pm &4-7pmTue-Sun) pnai 964 329152;CalleDiputació20;adult/child€2/free; 964 240778) COSTA DELAZAHAR ••AroundCastellóndelaPlana Navarro hasthree restaurants around pescado, ( ( % % ( v % 964 223726;CalleCaballeros41; menú withvegetarian option 964 237658;CalleBenárabe5;menús h . Buses forElGrauandthe. Buses (mains €8.50-12.60) ) 964 329970;www.villafames.com) Museo de Arte Contemporáneo deArte Museo ) This tiny place does agood Thistinyplacedoes Stark fromtheoutside,it’s Stark lunch &dinnerTue-Sat &lunchSun) fish) specialises injustthat, fish) specialises Plaza Tetuán ( % 964 225000;www.intur . Withinthe15th- ( % Calle Amadeo 964 213115;Plaza % 964 2611 h ( % 9am- 964 964 is

www.montanejos.com inSpanish) (spa). neario rock climbing. for isalsoapopularbase north. Montanejos the 25°Cwaters of Fuente deLosBaños mer months andthere’s bathingforfree in air attractshordesof visitors over thesum- itscool,freshpine-clad mountains, mountain anderra deEspadán.Surroundedbycraggy resort andspavillage attheheartof theSi- up theRíoMijaresCastellón gorges tothis driveIt’s aspectacular alongtheCV20from 460m pop 490/elevation Montanejos – have views. sweeping overlooking thevalley–which costnomore terrace, allroomshave abalconyandthose by theproprietress There’s herself. alovely Vertical renovated hasbeen withgreat taste 17th-century mansionwithfive floors, Jardín are Amainly essential. rooms, soreservations €110; Carrer Nou15;rfrom 32 9938;www.eljardinvertical.com; agood does isafriendlyfamilyhotel that the museum, .elrullo.com; CalledelaFuente 2; s/d €22/42) panorama. sensational steps take youuptotheruinedcastleanda rust-red stone. FromPlazadelaSangre, steep summer apartments. from Madrid, Valencia own and Castellón summer visitors are Spanish andmanypeople residences here. Tothisday,around80% of wealthy Valencian familiesbuiltsummer Benicasim) (Castilian: Benicàssim pop 16,200 BENICÀSSIM of spapackages. its ownpoolandgymalsooffers avariety beds, andbreakfast isincluded.Thehotel has are attractive andhave andcomfortable large (€12) initsvastdiningroom.Its81rooms , laysonafilling from thebalneario €57.50/77, Sat,Sun&Aug€62/84; 13 1079;www.hotelesrosaleda.com; Carretera Tales 28;s/d weekends. popular resort sincethe 19thcentury,when Most hotels openonlyinsummerandat The smallyetspacious The The modest nai tourist office tourist RosaledadelMijares Hotel menú. ) isagem; there are onlyseven Hotel ElRullo Hotel ( % (Continued on page 605) 964 131153;Carretera Tales; as Jardín Vertical Jardín Vertical iswithinthebal- ( % lonelyplanet.com 964 329384;www ) , barely 100m , 200mbelow

has been a has been ( ( % , 1km % menú 964 964

Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com ama.net; town, off the N340. stretch for6kmalongthecoast. velopment, scarcelyacoupleof blockswide, beaches andaccompanyingde- Benicàssim’s &Information Orientation lonelyplanet.com Feb–Oct; withcompulsorybreakfast €53-62,Aug& Sep €68; .com; Avenida Castellón2;dmid-Feb–Jun €34-41,Jul &Oct ofwalking distance thebeaches. six campsites areBenicàssim’s all within Sleeping &Eating andtheScissorSisters.ness, Morrissey included TheStrokes, FranzFerdinand, Mad- alternative theatre. Major performers in2006 that alsoembracesshortfilms,danceand one of Europe’stopoutdoor music festivals deBenicàssim Internacional of gather for thousands the annual AugustmusicaficionadosbythetensIn early Festivals &Events illustrates three splendid walking trails. deles PalmesThe Desert Nature Reserve, lar outdooractivitiesarea. From place formysticwithdrawal),it’sagreen, popu- (forthemonksitmeanta and farfromdesert (1697) atitsheart.Nowadaysa nature reserve monastery occasion misty–withaCarmelite rangea mountain –coolerthanthecoast,on century andintothe20th. wealthy Valencians attheendof the19th sometimes frivolousholidayhomesbuiltby northeastern endare traction. Borderingthepromenadeat 6kmofThose broad beach are themainat- Sights &Activities office tourist Main (Continued from page 596) page from (Continued The entrance is on Calle QuatroCaminos. The entrance isonCalle large, parking’s free andit’sexcellent value. has apoolandshady courtyard.Roomsare owned hotel, ontheoldtown’s mainstreet, inland intheoldtown. 1.30pm &5-8pmSunmid-Sep–mid-Jun) Onekilometre mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-2pm&5-8pmMon-Sat,10am- cassim.org; CalleSantoTomás74; views. Ask atthetouristofficeforitshandout point,there(728m), itshighest are staggering Hotel Avenida Hotel About 6kminlandisthe delasPalmas Desierto Aquarama water park Aquarama water h pais 11am-7pm mid-Jun–Aug) ( % COSTA DELAZAHAR ••OropesadelMar ( % 964 300047;www.hotelecoavenida ) Thisappealingfamily- 964 300962;www.beni

( % , exuberant,Las Villas h 964 303321;www.aquar (FIB; www.fiberfib.com) 9am-9pm daily isjustsouthof Monte Bartolo Monte Festival h which which mid- , ,

París; of of centric amateurs. The officialopening hours the oldtownand each run by passionate, ec- for some,pretentious flummeryfor others. inahigh-tech context.the sea Inspirational interpreting thetownanditsrelationship with is acollectionof objects, photosandeveryday adult/child €3/1.50; spa andresort of prettily northwards,embracingthemassive The resort isexpandingrapidlyandnonetoo row roadwindingaroundtherockycoastline. (Valenciano:Oropesa alonganar- Orpesa) to It’s afinescenicdrive fromBenicàssim OROPESA DELMAR connections are more plentiful. fromwherein summer)toCastellón, train 15minutes (every half-hour runevery Buses &Away There Getting clustered aroundAquarama ( left ). named ‘Hangover’). Thetown’s (the perhapsappropriately andResaca Campus Scratch Sessions, cluding ElÚnico,PinkNoise, old townhasagreat collectionof lively bars in- The eastern endof delosDolores Calle inthe rocks. In summerandatweekends, Benicàssim Drinking town’s mainstreet. theold Castellón, de SantoTomásandCalle free wi-fi andparkingis€8to€12. has large windowsoverlooking There’s thesea. The diningroom,where thecuisineisfirst class, the onlyhotel thatfacesdirectly ontothesands. andis modernupstarts most of Benicàssim’s War), theVoramarhasmore character than intheSpanishCivil (it functionedasahospital ily forfourgenerations) andbloodedinbattle pnai Pilar Marítimo Coloma1;s/dfrom€44/58,highseason€67/79; coming. Alltriplesoverlook theshore. isalsofamily-ownedandwel- the Tramontana of thingsandonlyhalfablockfromthebeach, fast from€30/48/67; tana.com; Paseo Ferrandis Marítimo Salvador6;s/d/trwithbreak- Playa delaConcha. Museo del Naipe Museo Naturhiscope Plenty of economicalrestaurants lineCalle Voramar Hotel Tramontana Hotel More interesting are alsoin twomuseums, The main h 9.30am-2pm &3-8pmor4.30-6.30pm) ) Venerable fam- (runbythesame tourist office tourist h h ( % (

% (Playing Card Museum; (Playing Card Museum; 9.30am-2pm &4.30-7.30pmor6-9pm) Marina d’Oro. Marina Mar-Oct; Mar-Oct; ( 964 300150;www.voramar.net; Paseo % 964 313026;PlazadelaIglesia; 964 30 03 00; www.hoteltramon 964 300300;www.hoteltramon p ( % ) More intheheart 964 313320;Plaza discotecas are % 964 31 20 20; 964 312020; isbeside

605 VALENCIA VALENCIA VALENCIA Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-2pmTue-Sun mid-Sep–mid-Jun).Jun–mid-Sep, 606 lives above. Thisplacehasover 5000different short, butatothertimes,justknock;theowner version of its loops. Ask atthetourist officefortheEnglish PR V-194 trail orslipinonemore shorter thefull26kmofYou canattack thecircular best explored bike. onfootorby mountain of coastlineintheComunidadValenciana, It’soneofreserve. thelastunspoiltstretches cola, isboth nature parkandprotected marine three small aquariums. the present.forchildren Highpoint willbethe times to heritage fromPhoenician seafaring Tue-Sun Oct-Mar) s/n; admissionfree; XIII). PopeBenedict the deposed came hometoPedro deLuna(‘Papa Luna’, Templar onArab foundationsandlater be- 5.30pm mid-Oct–Easter) €2.50/free; The rambling14th-century Sights &Activities booklet, TheOldCity. end of Paseo Marítimo. Pickupitsdescriptive 1.30pm &4-7pmMon-Sat,10am-1pmSun) iscola.org; andover issandy 5kmlong. Benicarló, the beach, which extends towardsneighbouring promenademakes walking,and pleasant Marítimo mostly leadenandcharmless. Butthe sproutingnorthwardsalongthecoastare rises contrast,thehigh- work inSpanish). Instark even penisforaspout,punthatdoesn’t – stiff shops (onefavourite: apotwithan–oh dear commercial, withlotsof souvenir andceramics It’sprettythe sea. asapostcard–andjust that protect therockypromontoryjuttinginto huddleswithinstonewalls whitewashed houses, Peñíscola’s oldtown,allcobbled streets and pop 6150 PEÑÍSCOLA Hierro shields andotheritemsatthe inmetal auniquecollectionofassembled cogsandgrills, world, explainedwithbeguilingenthusiasm. packs andothermemorabiliafromaroundthe Calle Hospital1;adult/child€3/1.50; Cajal 12;admission€3; The The The Luis Elvira,anothercollectingsquirrel, has COSTA DELAZAHAR ••Peñíscola (Metalwork Museum; Museum; (Metalwork Museu delaMar Museu , runningsouthfromPeñís- Sierra deIrta main tourist office main tourist h h 9am-8pm Mon-Fri mid-Jun–mid-Sep,9am-8pm Mon-Fri 9.30am- 9.30am-9.30pm Easter–mid-Oct; 10.30am- 9.30am-9.30pm Easter–mid-Oct; illustrates thetown’sfishing and brochure.Senderos deIrta h h 10am-2pm & 4pm-dusk daily Apr-Sep, 10am-2pm &4pm-duskdailyApr-Sep, was built by the Knights wasbuiltbytheKnights 10am-2pm &7-10pmTue-Sun mid-

(Maritime Museum; Calle Principe CallePrincipe Museum; (Maritime % ( % 964 31 61 04; Calle Ramón y y 964 316104;CalleRamón h 964 480208;www.pen 6-10pm Jun-Sep) 6-10pm Jun-Sep) castle isatthesouth (adult/child Museo del del Museo Paseo are platter of mixed fishandshellfish. by thecombinadodegustación, amagnificent a for two,sharethe maximumtaste sensation is alsogreat fishy.For valueforeverything seven spotless,modernroomswithviews.It’s seven has addition toitsengagingnameChikiBar ample outsideterrace orinthecosydining delmar.net; Avenida Papa Luna 18;s €47-94, d€64-125; ing thebeach. There’s wi-fi andfree parking. town. Nearlyallroomshave balconiesoverlook- multistorey neighbours onthenorthsideof more character thanmostof itsundistinguished pnais are simple,unfussy andrelatively spacious. enjoyequallyimpressiveseven Rooms vistas. bay. Ofitsninerooms,allhave balconiesand €11 to€18)withmagnificentviewsacrossthe theSimóhasarestaurant (mains side thesea, Dec) 5;s€40-56,d50-70; .hotel-simo.com; CallePorteta dinner, isexcellentvalue. course dayJulytoSeptember.open every Thethree- onTuesdayfromMarchclosed toOctoberbut a smallrestaurant (mainsfrom€8.50),which is chimes hour. tinnily,onthehour,every Itruns your earplugs,sincethenearbyparishchurch want intheoldtown,andyoumight high sure youreserve. side concrete towers. Sincethey’re small,make There are twogreat alternatives tothebeach- Sleeping &Eating southwards, to Castellón andValencia.southwards, toCastellón and, Renfe withtrains toBarcelona station a runatleasthourly toPeñíscola/Benicarló there’sVinaròs. FromJuly tomid-September, Peñíscola, between and Benicarló half-hour Year runatleastevery round,localbuses &Around There Getting and simmered fish dishes. €20.50; minimumtwopeople),and other rice renowned fortheir the crew) atworkinthekitchen. They’re a fishermanwholearnthistradecookingfor room, wheremumanddad(once youcansee closed Wed&dinnerSunmid-Sep–mid-Jun) €17.50-20.50; from €10) (seafood special;€33)followed (seafood mariscada Casa Jaime Casa Hogar delPescador delMar Hostería Simó Hotel-Restaurante Chiki Bar Chiki At the base of be- Atthebase thecastlepileandright menú (€10),offered forbothlunch and This popularfisherfolk’s cafébyday ( h % Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com ( % lunch &dinnerdailymid-Jun–mid-Sep, 964 48 02 84; Calle Mayor 3;r€37-45) 964 480284;CalleMayor 964 480030;Avenida Papa Luna 5;mains ) This family-owned hotel has This family-ownedhotel has ( ( % % suquet depeix 964 480600;www.hosteria 964 489588;CalleJardín2;fish

( % 964 480620;www lonelyplanet.com Dine onthe (fishstew; h Mar- In terfront, most specialising in seafood. terfront, mostspecialisinginseafood. from thesea. There isastrongemphasisonwhat’spulled terranean dishesandmore innovative fare. upbothtraditionalMedi- serves lighthouse, VINARÒS Estación 17) Sport or scooter fromDiver lonelyplanet.com of knights as his seat ofof power. as hisseat knights name El Maestrazgo) of theMontesa order the 14thcentury by themaestro(hence and ridges. pueblos (villages) huddle onrockyoutcrops fleshpots, whereaway fromthecoastal ancient Maestrat) land,aworld isa mountainous east Aragón,ElMaestrazgo (Valenciano: El Straddling northwestern Valencia andsouth- MAESTRAZGO EL Puerto langostino fromthequaysidefish market, Sat-Mon Oct-May) 11am-2pm 10am-2pm&5-7.30pmTue-Fri, 5-8pm dailyJun-Sep; 45 3334;www.vinaros.org; Paseo Colóns/n; past the quaint functionas glassproclaimsitsearlieroriginal stained shop, its daysaBenetton balconies). These floral motifsandfine Modernista with candy-twistcolumns.Opposite isthe tower andelaborate maindoorwaydecorated stocky baroquefortifiedchurch bell withatall pair of small,sandy beaches. famous for featuresdeeming are itsactive fishingport, is aworkingtown,andfairlygrimone. Re- Unlike itsluxury-loving neighbours, Vinaròs pop 25,250 10) its chalkboard. range of andfishy mains,displayed on tapas Sat &lunchSun) s/n, menús€25-65,mains€12-18; (haberdasher anddraper). , small, friendly and informal, does agreat, small,friendlyandinformal,does El Faro deVinaròs You’ve plentyof eatingchoices onthewa- To patrolthelongbeach front,hire abike One such place,SantMateu, in waschosen Just acrosstheroad,andalsoawell-lobbed MayorFrom here, Calle leads pedestrianised The ( Iglesia Arciprestal % covered market covered , besideHotel Herasu. 964 455672;CalleCostaBorrás60;mains€7- langostinos , located in the base of, located in thebase aformer Casa Giner(1914),garnishedwith Casa . andthePlayadelFortí ELMAESTRAZGO ••SantMateu ( % paquetería tourist office tothetourist

964 45 63 62; Zona Portuaria 964 456362;ZonaPortuaria (Plaza delAyuntamiento) (king prawns),anda miradores (enclosed ( h % lunch &dinnerTue- 609 622225;Avenida and h 10am-2pm & 10am-2pm & mercería ( % isa Bar 964 964

6pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pmSun) .com in Spanish; Calle Historiador Betí10; .com inSpanish;CalleHistoriador of the surroundingplain. as arestaurant offering incomparable views freshly renovated, itwasabout toopenagain at itsover-the-topa peep baroquechapel) and monastery untiltheSpanish CivilWar(take 2.5km drive orconsiderably shorter walk.A deDéu de laMare mid-Jul–mid-Sep €24/36) Betí9;s/dmid-Sep–mid-Jul €18/30, 41 6478;CalleHistoriador building. in thePalacio Borrull , entered viathetourist office Municipal Histórico lesPresons Museo Abadía,Casa besidetheparishchurch tower), , Paleontológico the to foursmallmunicipalmuseums: Mayor, ringed withcaféterraces, signspoint wool trade. Fromattractive colonnadedPlaza uponthe trious pastandformerwealth,based elaborate façadesrecall thetown’smore illus- oftal theMaestrazgo. Itssolidmansionsand CV132 bringsyoutoSantMateu, oncecapi- A drive 5kmsouthfromtheN232along 325m pop 2000/elevation MATEU SANT over andbarrels through. towriggle swing from,suspendedgangplankstoteeter to all,amore challenging onewithcreepers to gentle circuitforkidsaged five to10and,open the FábricaGinercomplex( p609 ). There’s a & mid-Sep–Oct) €17/15; Saltapins SALTAPINS one andsixhours. with explicitmaps)16routes lastingbetween foldersloose-leaf describing(inSpanish but Homologados deElsPorts-Maestrat town andForcall.Italsosells a 15km,four-hour signedroutethe between has afree brochure (inSpanish)describing the ElsPortsarea. TheMorella touristoffice The long-distance GR-7 walkingtrailcrosses This isfertile territory for cyclistsand walkers. CYCLING &WALKING Activities rooms anditsrestaurantadecent does for only€9. Follow signsfromPlazaMayor tothe LaPerdi Hotel-Restaurante The

h tourist office tourist ( % daily mid-Jun–mid-Sep, Sat&SunApr–mid-Jun 964 173256;www.saltapins.com; adult/child isanadventure centre within Museo Arciprestal Museo , perched onarockyhillside, Museo intheformerjailandMuseo ( has modern, comfortable hasmodern,comfortable % , a stalwart 15th-century 15th-century , astalwart isjustoffPlazaMayor. 964 416658;www.santmateu ( % of religious art(in Guía deSenderos 964 416082;fax % 10am-2pm &4- , apackof Ermita menú Museo Museo 607

VALENCIA VALENCIA VALENCIA Sat &SunSep-Jun) 10am-2pm Sun) 3; .net; PlazaSanMiguel Tiempo costs€3. deDinosaurios tive video (inSpanish). palaeontologists – together withaninforma- remote hillshave atreasure-trove been for bonesandfossils– the Maestrazgo’sdinosaur €1.80/1.20; major (see fiesta right ). models, photosanditems associated withthis in theex-Church of SantNicolau,displays 2pm &4-6pmTue-Sun Jul,dailyAug, Sat&SunSep-Jun) de SanFrancisco is thebare church andcloister of the town andsurroundingcountryside. Atitsbase cent tosavour thebreathtaking viewsof the knocked about,wellmeritsthestrenuous as- 10am-6.30pmOct-Easter) Easter-Oct, Morella’s Sights main entrancegate. Miguel, twin14th-centurytowers flankingthe five different namesinless thanakilometre. tudios, compoundstheconfusionbyassuming delos Es- SanMiguelandPuerta Puerta tween steps. Themainstreet, runningeast–westbe- pact jumbleof narrowstreets, alleysandsteep entrance gates. Thetownisaconfusing,com- Morella’s wallsare broken onlybytheirseven &Information Orientation wallovergirdled byanintact 2kmlong. perched onahilltopandcrownedbycastle,is exampleof fortress, This outstanding amedieval Morella istheprincipaltownof ElMaestrazgo. Bitingly coldinwinter andcoolinsummer, 1000m pop 2800/elevation MORELLA Restaurante Montesa. Mateu. Thebusstopis100meastof Hotel toMorellabus runsfromCastellón viaSant (€2.90, onehour,twodaily).OnSaturday, up totwohours, three daily)andMorella 35 minutes, (€4.45, fourdaily),Castellón linkSanMateubuses withVinaròs(€2.20, Weekday &Away There Getting into aparador hotel. 608 A combined ticket and toboththeSexenni In delSexenni Museo The EL MAESTRAZGO ••Morella Tiempo deDinosaurios Museo tourist office tourist h castle Mediterráneo Autos isjustbehind theTorres de San 11am-2pm &4-6pmTue-Sun Jul,dailyAug, , opposite thetouristoffice,are (admission free) (adult/child €1.50/free; (adult/child €1.80/1.20; h ( % 10am-2pm &4-6pmTue-Sat, 964 173032;www.morella , beingconverted , though badly, though ( % 964 220536) h (adult/child Convento Convento h 9am-8pm 11am- ,

Calle Segura Barreda 28) Calle Segura Hotel ElCid Hotel Sleeping &Eating Mayor’s huge organ. festival, starring María deSanta the Basílica la paper. confetti andelaborate compositionsincrêpe of thismajor celebrationwithitstonnesof toget delSexenni theflavourVisit theMuseo 2012) inhonourof theVirgen deVallivana. sixyearsevery duringAugust(thenextisin Morella’s major festival isthe Festivals &Events . of a13th-centuryaqueduct Farmers’ Guild;CalledelaConfraría) as the are the14th-century Arciprestal clesiastical treasure iskept withintheMuseo alloverpeek thegildedaltarpiece.Itsec- overhead choir, whilecherubs clamberand leadstotheelaborately sculptedstaircase polychrome stonefaçade. Arichly carved elaborately sculpted doorwaysonitssouth Mayor eter. Justaroundthecornerandalsoabutting Murallaalittlequi- La find 19-roomHostal 12;s/d€28/48) muralla.com; CallelaMuralla of thesurroundingcountryside. top-floorhigh; roomshave magnificent views rooms above abusybarandrestaurant. Head ramparts, Hotel elCidhasspruce,modern 3;s/d€25/42) SanMateu Puerta Hostal LaMuralla On theoutskirtsof townstretch thearches imposingcivilbuildings Among several The imposing la Gothic BasílicadeSantaMaría Annually inAugust,there’s a Sat) vaní 5-7;mains€4.65-14; peak autumn collecting time.peak autumn collecting Dittoforwildmushrooms during dessert. to dishesfromstarter eat truffle-flavoured wild boarandgoat. InFebruary, you can and,yes, rabbit, juicysausages,partridge mountain cuisine,thickgruelsinwinter, It’sallaboutstrong ries withinthekitchen. balefully eyeingyourplate hint attheglo- Mesón delPastor AUTHOR’S CHOICE

(Plaza Arciprestal; Casa delaCofradíaLabradores Casa The stuffed boarandwildgoatheads (admission €1.20) ( % Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com 964 160125;www.hotelelcidmorella.com; and manorial houses such andmanorialhouses h ( ( % % Casa delConsell Casa noon-2pm &4-6pm) h . 964 160249;CuestaJo- 964 160243;www.hostal Nestling besidethe lunch Thu-Tue, dinner . lonelyplanet.com , held Sexenni baroque music Youmay

(House ofthe (town hall; hastwo Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com affiliated affiliated owners’ sumptuousdwelling,whiletheHI- appointed roomswithintheformerfactory transformed 16th-centurycardinal’spalace. and antiquefurniture, allinawonderfully hotel hasancientstonefloors, ceilings high ram.com; CuestaSuñer1;s/d€45/70; inducerazorburn. towels might therough the walls,it’sequallytrim,though lonelyplanet.com ary, the to17Janu- OntheweekendCantavieja. closest is attheconfluence of and theRíosCaldés Nine kilometres furtherwest, thisquietvillage Forcall swimming pool. the valleywhileover theroadisalarge public workers’ housing. mid-Sep–Mar) Fri-Sun .com; s/d€50/58,Sat&Aug €70/80; spectrum: the sleeping factory withapairof choices ateach endof the FábricadeGinercomplex,aformertextile On theForcallroad,4.5kmwestof Morella, is deGiner Fábrica for walkers. cycling excursions, plusexcellentpossibilities scenicdrivessome outstanding andstrenuous arugged region passes’, ‘mountain offering Morella of istheancientcapital ElsPorts,the PORTS ELS Saturday busto/fromCastellón. (€7.30) andVinaròs(€4.35).There’s alsoone to/frombothCastellón runs twodailybuses Mediterráneo Autos On weekdays, &Around There Getting dishes, goforthe ofmenú (€12).Foraselection typicalElsPorts agood-value Roquedoes weekday sion, Casa Occupying anattractive 17th-centuryman- San Juan1; and atempting menú degustación (€30,minimumtwopeople) Monday October afirst-class toJune. Itdoes butclosed €13) isopendailyJulytoSeptember power showers. Itsrestaurant (mains€8to Attractively decorated roomshave sensual 13; dmunder/over26yr€7.45/10.60; Ram Cardenal Hotel Saltapins ( Saltapins p607 ) occupiesthewoods across Giner Fábrica Hotel Restaurante Casa Roque Casa Restaurante (also known as the Fiesta Santantonà (alsoknown astheFiesta Youth Hostel h lunch &dinnerTue-Sat &lunchSun) COSTA BLANCA menú deldía(€14). has been converted hasbeen from menú gastronómico

( % ( % ( % 964 173142;www.ghihoteles 964 173085;www.cardenal 902 225552;fax9639859 ( % a pa h 964 160336;Cuesta ) Thisvenerable daily Apr–mid-Sep, daily Apr–mid-Sep, ( % ) has24well 964 220536) (€22).

Workman describes in detail andwith flair20 Workman describesindetail Alicante, stoppingatall trams plythescenic routeDeniaand between Gandia, whiletheFGV narrow-gauge trainsand ing towns.Renfe trainsconnect Valencia with nidorm. Afew, callbyother interven- however, head downthemotorway,makingastop inBe- charge summer. farlessthaninhigh places remaining those openusually season, accommodation ifyouhaven’t booked. Outof andAltea, stillsurvive. (Jávea) few oldtownkernels, of such asthose Xàbia engulfedlong been bythesprawlof resorts, a theoriginalfishing villagesAlthough have suntan… for alively socialscene,goodbeaches anda mer beach,away.Butifyou’re stay looking ited areas. Ifyou’re midsum- after asecluded Coast) isoneof Europe’smostheavily vis- The longstripeof Blanca(White theCosta BLANCA COSTA townofmedieval Mirambel. valley,bringsyoutothecharmingCantavieja along theCV120,ascendingrugged Río €80/95; ( Palau delsOsset Mayor, theHotel-Restaurante palacesonopposite sidesofAragonese Plaza youths ablazingtunnel. sprintthrough fire, brieflydispelstheprevailing calmaslocal de SanAntonio),awinter festival celebrating restaurant (mains€10to€13.50). 20-room hotel withamore thanrespectable % Inland Trips from theInland Trips Costa Blanca linkingValenciaMost buses andAlicante It isn’tallconcrete andpackage deals. From Forcall,anattractive 20kmdrive In July and August it can be tough finding In JulyandAugustitcanbetough One of twofine,renovated, 16th-century or intercession. of thankstotheVirgin forherprotection and muchmore –accompaniedbynotes baby clothes,bridaldresses, militaryberets est ofofferings andex-votos –waxlimbs, rocky crag. Behindthemainaltarisafor- dinary Santuario delaBalma,setinsidea toexperiencetheextraor- along theCV14 Push beyondForcallfor15km northwards SANTUARIO DELABALMA 964 177524;www.ghihoteles.com; s/d€58/65,Sat&Aug a ) has been converted hasbeen intoanelegant pueblos enroute. by Derek 609

VALENCIA VALENCIA VALENCIA Sat, 10am-1pmSun) Opposite thebus/trainstation. 9.30am-1.30pmSat) 1.30pm &3-7.30pmMon-Fri, tourist offices. in English describing theroutes from both town tothecoast. Youcanpickupbrochures marshlandcoastal anddunes fromGandia iBorróisa13kmwalking trailthrough Senill (8km southof Gandia)andL’Orxa. thevillagestryside between of Vilallonga unspoiledcoun- an oldrailwaylinethrough delDuc Racó walking and cycling trailfollows turísticas (EcotourismRoutes). The12km halfhour.every accompanying leafletinEnglish, take place One-hour guidedtours inSpanish, withan the vividmapauniversal floor composition. ings andrich ceramicwork–lookoutfor include itsfinelycarved of Highlights DuqueFranciscodeBorja. adult/child €5/3; ( Gandia’s magnificentPalacio DucaldelosBorja Sights &Activities office Town tourist mid-Oct–mid-Mar) &mid-Mar–mid-Jun: 9.30am-1.30pmdaily mid-Sep–mid-Oct 9.30am-1.30pmSat&Sun 9.30am-2pm &4-7.30pmMon-Fri, 9.30am-1.30pmSat&Sunmid-Jun–mid-Sep;8.30pm Mon-Fri, .gandiaturismo.com; Paseo deNeptunas/n; office tourist Playa deGandia Information nightlife. resort withagoodsummerandweekend apartments. and backed hotels and bymedium-rise of groomeddailybyafleet tractorssand, de Gandiahasalong,broad beach of fine commercial centre. most astheinfamousBorgias), isaprosperous branch of dynasty(more theBorja familiarto two cities.Themaintown,oncehometoa Gandia, 65kmsouthof Valencia, of isatale pop 71,500 GANDIA away fromthecrowds. if you’dlike tolinger andspendthenight too hisSmallHotels andInns of Eastern Spain one-day carexcursions intotheinterior. Pack 610 % It’s apopularandpredominantly Spanish There are twoextremely Eco- goodRutas Four kilometres awayonthecoast,Playa 96 2871465;CalleDucAlfonselVell 1;guidedtour COSTA BLANCA••Gandia h wasthe15th-centuryhome 10am-1pm &4-6.30pmor5-8pmTue- ( % 96 2877788; ( % artesonado 96 2842407;www h h 9.30am- 9.30am- ceil- Entre

54: rice dishes€13mains,€9-22; 54: rice Paseo €57-87, deNeptuno28;half-boardperpersonJun-Sep also facesthebeach. Parking is€9to€12. at thisgood,ifalittlemonolithic,hotel, that andthere’sfortable wi-fi, agym,spaandpool €38.25-48.25; Oct-May person foroneof sea-view theeight rooms. prehensively renovated. Invest anextra€5per hotel, oneof com- Denia’searliest,that’sbeen in JulyandAugust–atthislarge beachside –compulsoryanyway going forhalf-board €34-45.50; Oct-May runs asmallbarforguests. italso JuneandSeptember beach. Between recommended place,ablockbackfromthe are ascheerful astheowners atthiswarmly Calle Alcoy22;s/dSep-Jun €35/45,Jul-Aug €45/60) busfromthestation. Amistad south of GandiabesidePlayadePiles.Take La This excellentbeachfront youthhostel is5km @gva.es; dmunder/over26€7.45/10.60; €4.30/6.20/4.90; s/n;sitesperperson/tent/car .com; Carretera delGraudeGandia L’Alquería Camping Sleeping Paco Paco, Mama Ya LoSabe andOuka-le-le, at Playade Gandia,withbars, includingPaco There’s great summerandweekend nightlife Drinking wheretaurant, you’lleatvery wellindeed. atmosphere inthistraditionallyfurnishedres- three children afamily manage topreserve gastronomic accolades,Emilio,his wife and Thu-Tue, dailyJul–mid-Sep) Avenida VicenteCalderón;mains€14-18; to perfection. excellent English and thericeissimmered speak isattentive, staff in Gandia. Service is oneof restaurants atrioof excellentseafood The Kayuko, atthenorthernendof theresort, Verge. at thewestern endof theportandalong Calle You’ll alsofindafew longer-established places aboundinPaseoEateries Marítimo Neptuno. Eating Paseo €58-91.50, deNeptuno62;half-boardperpersonJun-Sep land, thisplacehasaheated indoorpool. Restaurante Emilio Restaurante Hostal ElNido iVent Mar Albergue Hotel Bayren 1 Bayren Hotel Riviera Hotel Kayuko ( % Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com h 96 284 01 37; Calle Asturias 23;menús€25- 96 2840137;CalleAsturias (

% pais ( year-round; pais ( % % ( 96 284 50 42; www.hotelesrh.com; 96 2845042;www.hotelesrh.com; % 96 284 03 00; www.hotelesrh.com; 96 2840300;www.hotelesrh.com; ( 96 2844640;fax6571; ( % Despite acupboardfulof % 96 2840470;www.lalqueria 96 2831748;albergpiles_ivaj h 96 2840761;BloqueF-5, s lunch &dinnerTue-Sun) ) ) ) About 1kmin- Rooms are com- lonelyplanet.com It’s wellworth h h lunch &dinner year-round) Rooms

Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com the beach, orFalkata such as head foroneof thediscosthatboptilldawn, 300m inlandfromthebeach. After theyclose, clustered barely aroundPlazadelCastell, lonelyplanet.com delmar.com; Plaza Drassanes2;rwith breakfast €115-165; is butafew steps away.Parking is€10. andcosilyfurnishedcomfortable andtheport soar to€45/87for singles/doubles. Roomsare summer, whenprices option exceptinhigh thisis anexcellent-valueside thetrainstation, .com; CallePintor Llorens 3;s/dfrom€35/55; All have balconies. with pinewoodfurniture andtiledbathrooms. place facingthefishingporthas20trim rooms 8;s€26-32,d€43-55; Esplanada Cervantes Hostal l’Anfora Sleeping and Altea (€30/15). some of (€25/12.50) which continuetoCalpe maran tripsto/fromXàbia(adult/child €14/7), Marino To catch breezes, signonwith thesea Activities by. close andferryBoth trainstation terminal are 1.30pm Sunmid-Sep–Jun) 9.30am-1.30pm&4-7pmMon-Sat,9.30am- Jul–mid-Sep, delOculistaBuigues9; rieta The &Information Orientation Islands. ings totheBalearic coves. Fromtheportare cross- theshortest sea andbeyondoffersRotas lessfrequented rocky while southwardsthefretted coastlineof Las Marina,La tothenorth,are goodandsandy, Denia townisratherdullbutthe beaches of pop 40,600 DENIA 20 minutes. forPlayadeGandiarunevery buses diense MarinaStopping besidetheoffice,La Gan- isoppositestation thetowntouristoffice. on weekends). Thecombinedbusandtrain (hourly half-hour (€3.65, onehour)every GandiaandValenciaTrains runbetween &Around There Getting inland. Posada del Mar Costa Blanca tourist office tourist

( % Bacarra 96 6423066) ( % ( % (Calle Legazpi 7) COSTA BLANCA••Denia ( % 96 6430101;www.hostallanfora.com; 96 5780336;www.hotelcostablanca ( % 96 6422367;www.denia.net; Glo- , which does return, which does cata- (Cami Vell deValencia) isnearthewaterfront. h 96 6432966; www.laposada 9.30am-2pm &5-8pmdaily , twoblocksfrom pna na , further Mundo Mundo ) This ) Be- 10-11; mains€16.50-22) spectacular views. spectacular Naooffersthe promontory of deLa Cabo to thesouthof theharbour. Further south, zone of El Arenal, a coupleof kilometres directly eastof theold quarter; and thebeach old town2kminland;ElPuerto(the port), haven’tbut themasses yetarrived. whenthesunshines visit earlyintheseason, it’sgentle,said, laid-back andwellwortha thelocals.That isn’t thebestplacetomeet estate agent/realtor), Jávea) Xàbia(Castilian: tobean shop seems second Spanish (every over two-thirdsof itsannualvisitors non- With athirdof itsresident populationand pop 28,250 XÀBIA to/fromIbiza. service high-speed and ránea Mallorca andIbiza. Both 16 0180;www.balearia.net) (€4.30). via Altea (€3.50) andBenidorm 2½ hours; change tothetraminElCampello) scenic route southwardstoAlicante (€7.75, trainsdailyfollowthe seven From thestation, &Away There Getting to aturn. crispy ontheoutside,juicywithinandroasted fish dishes.Trythe for eithermeat,roasted inaclayoven, or neighbours. to someof itsmore expensive andstuffier informalcompared ispleasantly Drassanes Dec-Oct) 15; mains€7.50-12,menús€15-23; Plaza delRaset. Portandtheircontinuation,lavista, Calle ing forallpockets alongharbour-facing Bel- There’s aclutch of tempting restaurants cater- Eating Parking costs€15. the large windowsthatoverlook theharbour. streamsa nauticalthemeandlight through of its25roomsisindividuallydecorated with Each functioned asDenia’scustomshouse. occupies a13th-centurybuildingthatlast pnai For the Balearic Islands, For theBalearic Xàbia comesinthree parts:theattractive delPuerto Asador Drassanes Restaurante Iscomar ( % Bustling and seething on two levels, the ontwolevels, Bustling andseething 902 454645;www.acciona-trasmediterranea.es) ( % ) Thissensitively renovated hotel 902 119128;www.iscomar.com) This isanexcellentchoice ( % cochinillo (sucklingpig), runsdailyferries to/from 96 642 34 82; Plaza del Raset 96 6423482;PlazadelRaset ( % h Balearia Lines Balearia Acciona Trasmediter- 96 578 11 18; Calle Port 96 5781118;CallePort lunch &dinnerTue-Sun ( % run a 611 902

VALENCIA VALENCIA VALENCIA 2pm &2.30-9pmMon-Sat)Internetaccess. Bastarreche 12; s/d €29/52, Jul-Sep €40/64; Bastarreche 12;s/d€29/52,Jul-Sep room €41-46; 4;r€26-35,withshower€32-41,bath- Calle Magellanes Paseo Marítimo. and restaurants hugthe rimof the beachside enade southof theport.InElArenal, cafés la Marina prom- Española,thepedestrianised while bars andrestaurants flank Avenida de bars, enticingtapas The oldtownhasseveral Eating &Drinking a headlandoverlooking thebayof ElArenal. owned chain. But itenjoysamagnificentsite, on among theleastexcitingof thisexcellentstate- ally, Xàbia’sboxy, once-modern .es; Avenida 7;s/d€120/150) delMediterráneo ment) andthere’s abarandrestaurant. looking thebaycarrya€10to€15supple- be nearer Roomsare thesea. over- cosy(those besidetheport,couldn’t posing building,right fresh withflowers andwarmlyrecommended. couple, thispopularplaceiscleanasanewpin, the beach. €5/11.25; naranjal.com; CaminodelsMorers 15;sitesperperson/tent The harbourarea hasacoupleof options. Sleeping office leadsfree guided walks almostdaily. lours over thetown.Year-round, thetourist that ascent of mountain Montgó,thecraggy six waymarked routes inthearea, includingan Its Nature Parks &Trekking Routes ist officebrochure, Historical Centreof Jávea. To explore theoldtown,pickupfree tour- Activities 7.30pm Sat&10am-1.30pmSun) ( 10am-1.30pmSat); 4.30-7.30pm or5-8.30pmMon-Fri, ( offices Tourist Link Lavandería LosDelfines Bookworld Information h 7.30pm or 5-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pmSat); 7.30pm or5-8.30pmMon-Fri, 05; Carretera CabodelaNao; España 13)Intheoldtown. 612 % % Parador de Jávea Parador deJávea Miramar Hotel Pensión laFavorita Naranjal Camping 9am-1pm & 4-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pmSat) 9am-1pm &4-6pmMon-Fri, 96 5790736;PlazaAlmiranteBastareche 11; 96 5794356;PlazadelaIglesia; (Calle San Rafael, ElArenal; perhr€2.50; (Calle SanRafael, COSTA BLANCA••Calpe h h ( year-round) % (www.xabia.org); Mar-Nov) 96 6462253;Avenida Amanecerde ( % ( ( % A 10-minute walk from A10-minute walkfrom ( % /fax 965790102;PlazaAlmirante % Run by a friendly young Runbyafriendlyyoung h (Avenida delPlas/n,ElArenal; 96 5790200;www.paradores 96 5792989;www.campinge 96 579 04 77; fax 96 579 64 68; 96 5790477;fax6468; 9am-1.30pm &4.30- El Arenal ( h parador ranks 9am-1.30pm & 9am-1.30pm & a Architectur- % describes ) h This im- 96 646 06 96 64606 Old Town h 10am- 4.30- Port Port

Baix 2) over Nearby(go theinterior, stillsurvive). (onlytheirdoorwayarches,houses curving 21; perday/weekfrom€7/42) ( olive tree atitsheart. Óndara, neartheunnamedsquare withalarge and Alicante (€7.55).TheystoponAvenida rundailytobothValenciaSix buses (€8.90) &Around There Getting and fullmeals. have terraces pleasant andoffer bothtapas neighbours down thesteps besidethetouristoffice), 20; PlazadelaIglesia10) now fromafishfarm. nothing fromthefreezer amin- andnoteven Great forricedishes, itsfish isthefreshest: designer interior andsmallquaysideterrace. along themooringstonumber152),witha retreatthis isadelightful (justcountyourway €30) terrace. twist. Youcandineinsideoronitsivy-clad offers goodtraditionalcuisinewithacreative backfromtheroad,thisrestaurantand set 20; mains€14.50-18.50; Main tourist office tourist Main Europa Librería Center DIP Digital Information development. to thenorthhasmostof themore recent backed bytheoldtown,whilePlayaLevante Peñon: PlayaArenal onthesouthernsideis Calp). resortthe seaside of (Valenciano: Calpe dominatesmolar protrudingfromthesea, The Gibraltaresque Peñon deIfach, agiant pop 25,200 CALPE languages. 2) Goodstockoftitlesin EnglishandotherEuropean access. h Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pm Sat)Inthe old town. Mon-Fri, Plaza delMosquit; % In theoldtown,Temptacions 152 Amarre La Bombonería You canrent acycleat Two large bayssprawleithersideof the 10am-midnight Mon-Sat,4-11pmSun)Internet Attheendof abackwater inElArenal, 96 646 11 50; [email protected]; Avenida96 6461150;[email protected]; Lepanto andTertulia Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Bar Imperial Bar Imperial ( % ( h % (CalleBenidorm15;perhr€3; 96 579 06 29; Port delaFontana;meals 96 5790629;Port ( ( 10am-1.30pm &4-7pmor5-9pm % % ( 96 5835824;CalleOscarEsplá % h is adapted fromtwoold 96 5791647;Avenida Lepanto 96 5838532;www.calpe.es; 96 6460761;PlazadeBaix3) in theportarea. Mon-Sat) ( % Xàbia’s Bike Centre Xàbia’s Bike 96 6461181;Plazade Neartheport lonelyplanet.com ( % 96 57929

Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com vante, the huge Esmeralda,asmuch leisure walk fromPlayaLevante. the 332msummit,offering great seascapes deNaturaleza Aula the roundtrip–climbsfromPeñon’s A fairlystrenuous trail –allow2½hours for Sights lonelyplanet.com Or gofor their‘Menu forFish Freaks’. and fishmenu) withboarand fishof the day. atempting does it à lacarte menu. Inseason short, specialised restaurantommended, thisGerman-run hasa €13-20; Sat Oct-Jun) h of goodfishplacesdownbytheport. main Avenida de GabrielMiró,plusacluster around PlazadelaConstituciónandalongthe There are plentyof restaurants andbars Eating rants andacafé.Parking costs€5.35. indoor onetoo,plusagym,coupleof restau- there are three outside poolsandaheated families withchildren. failstocall, Ifthesea complex ashotel, isparticularlysuited to pas alda.com; CallePonent1;s€64.75-85.25,d€84.50-127.50; costs €9andthere’s wi-fi access. good viewsof thebeach andPeñon. Parking towardsthetopof floors)high, offer itsseven rooms(aim both beach andtown.Sea-facing Arenal, isavery stylishoptionthat’shandyfor €115/148; .com; Avenida deValencia 24;s/dfrom€59/74,mid-Jul–Aug from andiguana… Look outforthepettortoise there’s afridge andmicrowave forguests’use. basicroomsand has 13neat,wellmaintained ommended placejustoffAvenida GabrielMiró .net; PlazadeIfach5;perperson€12) .es; Avenida s/n;tent&2campers€24) delaMarina Levante Camping Sleeping a shortwait. are limited to150atatime,soyoumayhave nel. InJulyandAugustnumbers onthecliff from itsendpointattheof adarktun- €12) andalsohasarich àlacarte selection. inricedishes(€10to specialises Cambra La Los Zapatos La Cambra Bahía Hotel Pensión Centrica Hotel Esmeralda Hotel lunch &dinnerMon-SatJul-Aug, lunchMon-Thu, & dinnerFri h pas All agreeably antique wood and tiles, Allagreeably antiquewoodandtiles, lunch &dinnerThu-MonDec-Oct) ) At thenorthernlimitof PlayaLe- ( % ( % ( %

( % 96 583 06 05; Calle Delfín 2; mains €15-21; 96 5830605;CalleDelfín2;mains€15-21; COSTA BLANCA••Altea menú caza ypescado (hunting ) 96 583 15 07; Calle Santa María 7;mains 96 5831507;CalleSantaMaría ( The Bahia, overlookingThe Bahia, Playa 96 5839702;www.bahiacalpe-hotel ( % (Nature towards Centre) 96 5832272;campinglevante@teleline % 96 5835528;mjpiffet@telefonica 96 5836101;www.rocaesmer Thiswelcoming,rec- Highly rec- Highly A brief Abrief 9am-2pm Sat) dinner only except in high summer.dinner onlyexceptinhigh sion of cute littlerestaurants, manyopenfor Major,especially downCalle there’s aprofu- Vic Center Center Vic office tourist Main Laundrette Chat.com Information isforallages. mer Benidorm mostly fromnorthernEurope. Duringsum- ship’s prow. tillo, where thelandjutsintobaylike a sandy beaches beneathPlazadelCas- –meet the longer PlayadelPoniente –5kmof white ofand as thetwinsweeps PlayadelLevante dignity.Theforeshorecertain ismagnificent northern Europe,stillmanages toretain a violated byloutsfrom most summernights package tourism.Buttheoldgirl,though which tocheap long agosolditsbirthright It’s easytobesnobbishaboutBenidorm, pop 67,500 BENIDORM Pedro 9) Comunidad Valenciana. isjustabout theprettiestsea, old town,perched onahilltopoverlooking the it sofarfrommasstourism.Thewhitewashed pebbles androck–that’swhathassaved couple of moonsaway.Itsbeaches are mostly thick wedge of theSierraHelada, couldbea onlybythe Altea, fromBenidorm separated pop 21,200 ALTEA The and Valencia (€9.85,3½hours, sixdaily). (€1.75). (€5.35, 1¾hours) viaBenidorm Denia (€2.65,40minutes) andsouthtoAlicante FGVtrainstravel dailynorthwardsto Seven &Away There Getting on theringroad. and in Rincòn deLoix. and inRincòn onAvenidaThere office kiosks are deEuropa alsotourist 10am-1.30pm &4.30-7.30pm Sat,10am-1.30pmSun) Alejos6; .org; Avenida Martínez h midnight) Internet access. Off PlazadelaIglesiaintheoldtown,and Off Altea’s withbothAlicante connectCalpe Buses In winter halfof allvisitors are over 60, 10am-midnight) Internetaccess. bus station isonthebeachfront. (Avenida deEuropas/n;perhr€1.80; (Calle Lepanto 6;perhr€1.80; (CalleIbiza14; tourist office tourist (Avenida Valenciana) delaGeneralitat ( % 96 5851311;www.benidorm h ( % h 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 96 5844114;CalleSan 9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, pueblo inallthe h 9.30am- 613

is VALENCIA VALENCIA VALENCIA 614 0 200 m BENIDORM 0 0.1 miles COSTA BLANCA••Benidorm To A7 (1.25km); To Aqualandia; Mundomar (1km) To Train Terra Mítica (5.5km); Station Terra Natura (5.5km); I Alicante (40km); (400m) e Valencia (147km) im to a n J a

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Laundrette...... 2 E1 Hotel Colón...... 9 E3 KU...... 20 C2 lonelyplanet.com Main Tourist Office...... 3 F3 Hotel Iris...... 10 B2 Tourist Office...... 4 D1 Hotel La Santa Faç...... 11 E3 TRANSPORT Tourist Office...... 5 F2 Hotel Los Ángeles...... 12 F3 Alsa Office...... 21 D2 Vic Center...... 6 D1 Bus (No 21) for Terra Mítica & Terra EATING Natura...... 22 F3 M E D I T E R R A N E A N SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Casa de la Portuguesa...... 13 E4 Bus (No 22) for Terra Mítica & Terra S E A 0 100 m Excursiones Marítimas La Cava Aragonesa...... 14 E3 Natura...... 23 A2 0 0.1 miles Benidorm...... 7 E4 La Rana...... 15 E3 Bus to Aqualandia and Mundomar... 24 C2 Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com old town. Fifth-andsixth-floor rooms have informal, family-ownedhotel isalso inthe Paseo deColón) significant discounts. 01; adult/child€20/14; if you’re withchildren, it’sMediterranean in swer toDisneyland.Afundayout,especially Sat&SunonlyOct) Jul &Sep, Terra Mítica Sights &Activities lonelyplanet.com s/d Nov-Jun €43/72) from€27/50, Jul-Sep terminals. for guestsonly,equippedwiththree Internet balcony too. There’s a cosygroundfloorbar fans andbathtubsmosthave asmall on afairlyquietstreet. Allroomscome with 45, d€25-50; Benidorm Spotlight dependent traveller. Bookonlinethrough commodation canbeexpensive forthein- onapackageAlmost everyone’s deal,soac- Sleeping bay views. out intothehillsnorthof townforsuperb erra Helada fromthetouristofficeandstride down, pickupafree copyof Routes Across Si- days. Take bus11. adult/child), ondifferent which canbeused economical tobuyacombinedticket (€31/21 isworthafullday.It’s with dolphins.Each ofa bevy swimming girlsdoingsynchronised bats– andno,they’reeven notmermaidsbut lions, animal parkwithparrots,dolphins,sea h visitors yetlost). swim withsharks(fairlysmallandbenign,no supplement) and,forthebrave, thechance to there’sman-made habitats, awater park(€5 1000animalslivethe grandscale. in Over h islands. Take bus21or22. to ancientEgypt, Greece, Rome,Iberiaandthe theme, withplentyof ridesandareas devoted €33/25; and a cruise up the coast to Calpe (€19/12). upthecoasttoCalpe and acruise day outingtotheislandof Tabarca (€25/16) child afull- return) tothe IsladeBenidorm, water park. Beside itis water park.Beside Hotel Iris Iris Hotel Hotel LosÁngeles Hotel Aqualandia Terra Natura Excursiones Marítimas Benidorm Excursiones Marítimas freneticShould paceget Benidorm’s you 10am-7pm mid-May–mid-Oct) 10am-dusk) h 10am-10pm mid-Jul–Aug, 10am-8pmApr–mid- i

(Mythical Land; ( % isarivaltheme park, alsoon runs hourly boats (€10/8adult/ ) Here’s afriendlybudget choice ( % ( /fax 965865251;CallePalma 47;s€25- % COSTA BLANCA••Benidorm

(www.benidorm-spotlight.com) ( h 96 5860100;adult/child€23/16; % 902 500414;adult/child€20/15; is Blanca’san- theCosta 10am-7pm) 96 6807433;CalleLosÁngeles 3; % Mundomar isEurope’slargest 902 0220;adult/child , amarine and This pleasant, Thispleasant, ( % ( % 965 850052; 96 58691 for a hotel.com; CalleSantaFaç 18;s/d/tr€48/75/90; the LosÁngeles dine. just downtheroad,where at guestsstaying also runsPensión delMar, andRestaurant large balconiesatnoextracost.Thefamily Benidorm’s smallport. Benidorm’s also simply enjoyadrink and theviewover full mealonthelarge terrace –where youcan bythebarorenjoy a you canpickattapas this elegantrestaurant, designed withflair, 54 25;Paseo deColóns/n;mains€12-18,menús of mainsfromacrosstheMed. (around€8)andalso offerspastas aselection placepreparesItalian superiorpizzasand thisauthentically rises, hemmed inbyhigh del Mediterráneo) Constitución end. SantoDomingoatthe Plazadela ing Calle bars, lin- tapas take your pickfromthose local andSpanish regional restaurants and biggest concentrationofFor Benidorm’s Eating diners, it’ssuperlative inmanysenses. restaurants thatcanaccommodate upto1000 the twoexternal ones),776roomsandapairof (havewith 23lifts/elevators funridingoneof Itsvastness taste isn’ttoeveryone’s tallest. but, much space-age village ashotel, isEurope’s thismammothcomplex,as At 186mhigh, Calle Luis Prendes s/n;half-boardperperson€46-89; summer.high beach andisaparticularlygooddealoutside Now completely remodelled, itoverlooks the first hotel,family. stillbelongstothesame mer €54/96; .com; Avenida VirgendelSufragio1;s/dwinter€31.60/51,sum- rooms have great viewsof PlayaPoniente. don’texpectfinecuisine.though East-facing son. Half-board isonly€3more thantheB&B, niente, theColónisgreat sea- valueoutsidehigh of season. character. Allroomshave abalcony. street intheoldquarter, isfriendlyandfullof de Colón3;s/d€30/42,Jul-Aug €56/84; promontory and old town meet PlayadelPo- promontory andoldtownmeet Conveniently positionedwhere theneckof the Hotel LaSantaFaçHotel Topo Gigio TopoGigio Bali Gran Hotel Restaurante Marisquería ClubNaútico Marisquería Restaurante Bilbaíno Hotel Colón Hotel Larger hotels canbereasonable valueout ) This long-established hotel, Thislong-established upanarrow h ( Mar-Nov; Mar-Nov; % ( % On themaineast–westdragand ( 96 585 71 68; Edificio Marianne 9,Avenida96 5857168;EdificioMarianne % ( 96 5850412;www.hotelcolon.net;Paseo % 96 681 52 00; www.granhotelbali.com; 96 6815200;www.granhotelbali.com; a ( 96 5850804;www.hotelbilbaino % ) This, Benidorm’s very This,Benidorm’s 96 5854063;www.santafaz h mid-Mar–Oct; mid-Mar–Oct; pas h ( %

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VALENCIA VALENCIA VALENCIA Vicente 39;mains€9.50-14) onto thenarrowstreet insummer,thisres- in between. daily)andall stations (€4.30, 1¼ hours, seven mall) isatthe Nuriashopping ticket backinLa office(set Alicante (€3.40,onehour,atleasthourly).The Valencia (€12.70to€14.35,1¾hours) and Blancato/fromand southalongtheCosta ALSA &Away There Getting year-round. daily inJulyandAugust,atweekends of town.Theyandothersimilargiantsopen la ComunidadValenciana on the outskirts tempo once thesunsets. are laid-back cafésduringtheday,changing Both lectic until6pm,whenit’sstrictlyhouse. KM card.Atitsnearneighbour plays theoriental reproduction HinduandBuddhiststatues, Fashion’. ‘Bar place thatstylesitself at thisrecently opened,cooldesignercocktail not noted forsubtlety,parkyourselfonastool h Fratelli &Entertainment Drinking well worthtrackingdown. cuisine. Tucked awayupacobbled alley,it’s authenticSpanish first bills),TheFrogserves aged cashregister musthave rungupthevery oldestrestaurantsOne of (that Benidorm’s its great ricedishes andfresh fish. priced. Family-run, itowesitsreputation to and shakers, isnevertheless very reasonably afavourite moverstaurant, of Benidorm’s 616 to Alicante (€3.45,1¼hours, hourly),Denia La Rana La Rana delaPortuguesa Casa KU Both have mega Alternatively, you cantake theFGVtrain La Cava Aragonesa AUTHOR’S CHOICE Catalan bubblyisstillunderaeuro). good winebytheglass(adecentmeasure of canapés, 20different plates ofcoldcutsand oftapas,fat back isitsmagnificentselection over drawingus adecadenow.Whatkeeps have beendroppingintothisplaceforwell (Avenida deAlcoy; 6pm) ( % (Avenida deAlcoys/n; COSTA BLANCA••Alicante ( For asophisticated drinkinatown % 96 6803955;www.alsa.es) ( % 96 585 39 79; Calle Doctor Orts Llorcas/n; Orts 96 5853979;CalleDoctor 96 5868120;CosterodelBarco6;meals€20) bus stop h discotecas onAvenida de 11am-5am) (Plaza delaConstitución) With its tables spilling With itstables (Avenida deEuropa8) ( h % 10am-5am) 96 5858958;CalleSan buses runnorth buses ,

the music’sec- , withits . We We UP Internet UP Internet office tourist Regional office tourist Municipal postoffice Main Information north–south artery. deMéndezNúñez,theprincipal the Rambla a vibrantnightlife. isbordered ElBarrio by of thecheaper accommodationoptionsand (theoldquarter), whichEl Barrio hasmost edral deSanNicolásare thenarrowstreets of running paralleltotheharbour. AroundCat- deEspaña,linedwithcafésand Explanada Palm trees shade Paseo thepedestrianised Orientation Spanish –nightlife. to experienceitsfrenetic –andunmistakably visit. Trytofitinatleastoneovernight stay an attractive placethatimproves withevery portto fromasomewhatseedy formed itself more thantourismalone. Dynamic,it’strans- region’s second-largest town,lives formuch Alicante (Valenciano: Alacant),theValencia pop 319,400 ALICANTE Calle San Rafael to PlazadelCarmen. SanRafael Calle Parquewalk down through delaEreta via the bowelsof It’sapleasant themountain. throughopposite PlayadelPostiguet, rises tor (€2.40return), reached byafootbridge contemporary Spanishsculpture. Alift/eleva- the city.Insideisapermanentdisplay of Bárbara and partying,meanstoalicantinos . deSantJoan ( what theFiesta p618 ), allfire Sun) free; % 23 pass by. 2,6,9,20and information inEnglish. Buses there’s though well meritsavisiteven little Tue-Sat, 10am-2pmSun) GómezUllas/n;adult/child€3/1.50; Doctor MARQ Sights & Activities 3-8pm Sat) Méndez Núñez23; h Bus Station) 6.30pm Nov-Mar) From the16th-century The 96 514 68 28; Rambla deMéndezNúñez29;admission 96 5146828;Rambla 8am-1am Mon-Thu, &Sat,9am-1amSun) 9am-3amFri h has agreat audiovisual presentationof (Museo ArqueológicoProvincial; (Museo 10am-2pm &5-8pmor6-9pmTue-Sat, 10am-2pm deFogueres Museu (admission free; (Calle ÁngelLozano10;perhr€1.65; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com there are viewsover sweeping h (CalledeAlemania) 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm& 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, , very visualandhigh-tech, h ( (www.alicanteturismo.com; % 10am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, 9am- 10am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, 96 520 00 00; Rambla de 96 5200000;Rambla (Museo delasHogueras; (Museo % Castillo deSanta Castillo lonelyplanet.com 96 5149006;Plaza h 10am-7pm lonelyplanet.com 0 400 m ALICANTE 0 0.2 miles

o To MARQ (Museo INFORMATION EATING v Parque l Arqueológico a de la British Consulate...... (see 1) Cantina Villahelmy...... 19 D3 C Provincial, 400m) Ereta German Consulate...... 1 C3 El Trellat...... 20 C1 C a d Main Post Office...... 2 C4 Nou Manolín...... 21 D3 i II COSTA BLANCA••Alicante n e e Municipal Tourist Office...... 3 B4 One One...... 22 C4 v im Monte Ja To La Albufareta (1km); A Benacantil Regional Tourist Office...... 4 D3 Pintxo Kalea...... 23 D2 a Lucentum (6km); A7 (9km); d i

UP Internet...... 5 C2 Piripi...... 24 A4 icente n Camping Costa Blanca (9km);

V e Tabulé...... 25 B2 C v Playa de San Juan; A d Benidorm (45km)

San SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES e

20 C os Castillo de Santa Bárbara...... 6 E2 a an p lle de ll C i e Iglesia de Santa María...... 7 E2 t v a á Ca o l J n 6 le e Lift to Castillo de Santa d d S C e e a A P id Bárbara...... 8 F2 g v B a en e b a 8 v r Covered MUBAG (Museo de Bellas Artes d l lo A Playa del a r e n a Market Ig Postiguet G d Gravina)...... 9 E3 25 Av Perez Galdós o le e s n ia Museu de Fogueres (Museo de e s r 12 a a an Plaza las Hogueras)...... 10 D2 l int u la Constitución M Q Ave del ta a e Carmen Po nida de n Plaza r e Sa Ca a SLEEPING v all el lle r a C C fa de Arquitecto fo Plaza 23 Ra 31 To M López a Abba Centrum...... 11 B4 San led illavieja L 30 32 o de V ta Guest House Antonio...... 12 B2 lle is a Cristóbal l C a t o M C c C a u s ldo a Hostal Les Monges Palace..... n 13 D2 a na 7 B a l R d e enida Alfonso X El Sabio l L C 26 s o 5 e 10 a a e n d Av 13 ng a Hotel Amérigo...... m 14 D3 Plaza m 29 b Mo 18 Plaza u C d J a r d Catedral l a b a v e e n v l l d a Santa a de los l 16 a u A Hotel Mediterranea Plaza...... A 15 D3 e o de San J S l C e z d o d r g María i Luceros e 19 r 9 e s e s Nicolás Jo m Hotel San Remo...... 16 C3 d o Á o C e le atr M El al G l e a B Town C a e Hotel Spa Porta Maris...... 17 E4 v l T 21 é in d a e s a n v M E D I T E R R A N E A N r d Plaza t Barrio o e il d Hall ra lle a é 4 e z a e G s Pensión La Milagrosa...... 18 E2 Av Estación C Nueva ñ n a z lle P S o r 15 a e Calle de o S E A Jerusalén N y C r s a ra e ú M el 36 re ix ñ a b e C f Tram to a z a C R ira o 37 El Campello or 14 e nd C t a t d am na a in on tra C lt er Renfe Estación l el er es Plaza del A F le d G n an de Madrid (Renfe le de e Fi Portal de S d al le n d de Plaza Puerta DRINKING e C al ró Elche le Train Station) l C Ba co al del Mar del ancis C P alle an Fr a Celestial Copas...... 26 D2 in C de S añ t Plaza e p o Call Plaza de Es Compañía Haddock...... 27 E4 r de Calvo To Albergue Juvenil e A C Gabriel d Sotelo a a Coyote Ugly...... 28 E4 La Florida (1km); p 1 l Miró ad a Avenida Maisonnave C le 33 n a la o Madrid (422km) r A l d p an Desafinado...... 29 D2 ic le e x ll i v E le o C L 22 o al A a e V Desdén Café Bar...... 30 D2 d a n as e v e na u P d e n l le za o El Templo del Rock...... 31 D2 n D ja l C i 24 ll o s e d d re c o La Llum...... 32 D2 a o t se M o a 17 O o asanova r P Port Rell...... (see 27) ct s ite G 34 c qu a Tropiscafo...... (see 28) a r d r ólicos l A e Paseo e a Z...... 33 D3 E d Cat s lle del p Ca Puerto l Reyes 3 á los lia TRANSPORT 35 Ita de Calle del Pintor Lorenzoe C le d Boats to Tabarca...... 34 D4 Cal lle 2 27 Ca To Panoramis To Isla de To Isla de Bus Station...... 35 B4 To Airport (12.5km); To Estación 11 (350m) Tabarca Tabarca (20km) 617 (19km); Marítima Buses to Airport...... 36 E3

Elche (Elx; 25km); 28 Buses to San Juan...... 37 E3

Murcia (76km) VALENCIA VALENCIA VALENCIA ing machine. There’s alsoasmall guestkitchen andwash- uptosix(perextrapersoncan sleep €20). cently. Italsohas three apartments(€50)that given goingoverhas been athorough re- to therefurnished roof terrace, TheMiracle room €30/45; and Renfe trainstations. Take bus2or3,bothof which passbythebus are excellent,withmostbedsinsinglerooms. Julyandmid-September.between Facilities Floridafunctionsasayouthhostel dence, La west of thecentre andnormallyastudentresi- 59;under/over26yr€7.45/10.60) Orihuela by. right passes is about 10kmnorth of Alicante. Thetrain tent/car €4.75/7.05/4.75; CostaBlanca Camping BUDGET Sleeping (Valenciano:tirical effigies the boxed text, p586 ), withfireworks andsa- city stages itsownversion Fallas of Las (see Joan, spread eithersideof 24June,whenthe Alicante’s major festival isthe Festivals &Events reached 21and22. bybuses crowded beaches are at beach of and leisure complex. the western moleis of theport.On busy road)followthecurve onlybyahideously tiled walkway(separated Tabarca ( p620 ), 20kmsouth. the 45-minute runtothepopularislandof Gothic simplicity. bothcontrastingwiththenave’saltarpiece, ant, 18th-centuryfaçadeandornate, gilded €1; 18th-century mansion. iswithinan stimulating fineartsmuseum, 4-8pm or5-9pmMon-Sat,10am-2pmSun) 80; CalleGravina13-15;admissionfree; lamilagrosa.com; CalledeVillavieja8;s/d€20/35,withbath- 618 costablanca.com; CalleConvento,Campello;sitesperperson/ hogueras A pleasant harboursideA pleasant promenadeand From theharbour,boats(€16return) make MUBAG LaFlorida Juvenil Albergue Pensión LaMilagrosa Immediately northof theportissandy Nearby, theIglesiadeSantaMaría h COSTA BLANCA••Alicante 10am-12.30pm &6-8.30pm) ) goingupinsmoke allover town. Playa delPostiguet ( Gravina; deBellasArtes Museo a ) Fromitsfreshly painted façade s Panoramis, avastshopping ( % ( ) % Thislarge campsite Playa deSanJuan,easily 965 630670; 96 5216918;www.hostal ( % fogueres, . Larger andless . Larger hasaflamboy- 96 5113044;Avenida Around2km h Fiesta deSant , Alicante’s

www.camping % 10am-2pm & Spanish: (admission 96 51467 SanRemo Hotel MIDRANGE &TOPEND for thebusstation. other apartments,onenearby,thehandy There’s alsofree wi-fi andAntoniohastwo washing machine andare exceptionalvalue. with theirownpatio,have amini-kitchen and facilities. Thefive apartments(€60to€70),two a safe, full-sizefridge andfree beverage-making large,the eight tastefully decorated roomshas Here’s amagnificentbudget choice. of Each 20;s€25-32,d€33-45; housealicante.com; CalleSegura Calle Pintor Lorenzo Casanova 33;r€85-125; if yousimplyslob around… Wellness Center. Thenagain,no one willcare hyperhealthy choice are pools,gym anda marina. Amongthemanyfacilitiesatthis has abalconyoverlooking eitherbeach or terrace. with woodfloors, gymandsun plusasauna, tral. Ithasspacious,stylishly furnishedrooms the Mediterranea Plazacouldn’t bemore cen- 18th-century mansioninapedestriansquare, €75-127, d€99-140; .hotelmediterraneaplaza.com; PlazadelAyuntamiento6;s brew. There’s alsowi-fi access. chine near reception thereal thatdispenses offer breakfast,it doesn’t there’s acoffee ma- ifsmallish, rooms.Although well-maintained, This friendly,family-runhotel has27spruce, Calle Navas30;s€31-37,d€45-57,tr€61-75; from €87.50-123; 3;s€77.50-108,d delMar PlazaPuerta spaportamaris.com; Abba Centrum Abba Centrum Guest HouseAntonio Hotel Spa Porta Maris Maris SpaPorta Hotel Plaza Mediterranea Hotel Hostal Les MongesPalace AUTHOR’S CHOICE the reception desk… Look outforthesmallDalíoriginal beside two roomswithsaunaandJacuzzi(€92). really pamperyourself,chooseoneofthe ception couldn’tbemore welcoming. To rated, for€10andthere- there’s parking room isindividuallyandtastefully deco- and antiquefurniture, isatreasure. Each with itswindingcorridors,tiles,mosaics pai s/d withshower€27/41,bathroom€39/54; 50 46;www.lesmonges.net; CalleSanAgustín 4; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com ) This agreeably quirkyplace, as ( % ( na % 96 5209500;www.hotelsanremo.net; 96 513 04 40; www.abbahoteles.com; 96 5130440; www.abbahoteles.com; ) Each of Each the138rooms ) Occupying aconverted ( ( % % 96 5147021;www.hotel 650 718353;www.guest ( % lonelyplanet.com 96 5210188;www pnai ( % pna 96 521 a ) ) )

Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com restaurant, which does a wonderful selection restaurant, awonderfulselection which does background atthismodern,stylishbarand will get youby(just askyourebullienthost following of regulars, butatouch of bravado (pronounced ‘on-eh, on-eh’)withitsfaithful Spanish atthiswonderfullyeccentric place to abargain €60perroom.Parking costs€11. option intheheartof town.Weekend rates drop 2005, theAbba isahugely attractive Centrum With anewnameandradicaloverhaul in lonelyplanet.com Bartólome intones… Bartólome and there’s nomenu. Justlisten carefully as walls scarcelyvisible forphotosandposters, about histravels toPeru). It’satruebistro,the €25; inventive and changes weekly. menú. Youwon’trepeat yourself;it’soriginal, girl team, youtake what’s onoffer ontheday’s friendly vegetarian restaurant, runbyan all- €18; ferent ways. steakssalads, andcodprepared infourdif- of juicypinchos (smallopensandwiches), to octopus. menu thatfeatures dishes fromcouscous has lotsof anda snacks,excellentsalads Intimate, funky andpopular,theVillahelmy 37; mains€4-8; worked inAlicante’s premier cake shop. creamy nougat).Trustthechef; hepreviously (gypsy’s arm;aswiss rollwrappedaroundsoft to bebrazo degitano concremadeturrón choice of inventive ithas mains.Fordessert then anample buffet, course aserve-yourself creativeplace does three-course thecoveredBeside market, thissmall,friendly lunch €8.50,dinner€11.50; El Trellat Eating Parking costs€15andthere’s wi-fi access. the comfortof yourstunninglydesignedroom. solarium –ifyoucantear yourselfawayfrom sweat inthefitnessarea orjustflopinthe rooftop aworkof pool,itself art,buildupa and ultra-modern.Enjoytheviewsfrom hotelstar harmoniouslyblendsthetraditional an oldDominicanconvent, thisgloriousfive- Altamira7;rfrom€140; Rafael menús €12) One Tabulé Hotel Amérigo Amérigo Hotel Pintxo Kalea Pintxo Kalea Villahelmy Cantina h h Tue-Sat) lunch Mon-Sat,dinnerWed-Sat; ( ( % % Basque musicwailsandjigsinthe Basque ( 965 20 62 75; Calle Capitán Segarra 19;menús 965 206275;CalleCapitánSegarra % 965 133445;Avenida 52;menús Pérez Galdós h It’s easierifyouspeakalittle ( % 965 206399;CalleValdés 9; meals ( COSTA BLANCA••Alicante % lunch &dinnerTue-Sat &lunchSun) 96 514 58 41; Plaza San Cristóbal 11; 96 5145841;PlazaSanCristóbal 96 514 65 70; www.hospes.es; Calle 96 5146570;www.hospes.es; Calle h ( pnais % lunch Mon-Sat, dinner Fri &Sat) lunch Mon-Sat,dinnerFri 965 21 25 29; Calle Mayor 965 212529;CalleMayor

v menús: first ) ) At this Within Within

Alicante’s AIR & There Getting Away almost asrich. the opportunitiesfornocturnalaction are ferry over tothePanoramis complex,where Ugly sometimes haslive music. out goodrecorded jazz,whilebesideitCoyote roof –isPortRell. downonagoodnight ion. Sittingabove it–andriskingbringingthe the image of Tintin’s pipe-smokingcompan- Compañía Haddock bythedin,youwillfrom bar withDJsthatalsooffers goodjazz. Desafinado of religious art/junkandgreat music.Nearby, and decidedlyweird,withakitsch collection (Plazo Quijano1). what musicprevails atnearby wild lateNoprizesforguessing intothenight. while evening, radores 22) discos. ble-decker lineof bars, cafésandnight-time Paseo delPuerto,tranquilbyday,isadou- is wall-to-wallbars. Downbytheharbour, The oldquarter deSanNicolás aroundCatedral Drinking (Avenida AlfonsoXElSabio) huge, ArtNouveau twin-storey dishes. seafood to-shoulder downstairs bar)andfinericeor (headfortheshoulder-strong onstylish tapas €13-23) favourite amongdiscerning dishes. Bookinadvance,sinceit’sanother rice anddelightful magnificentbartapas does €15, mains€10-19) all over Europe. airlines, charters andscheduled from flights bybudget Blanca,isserved way totheCosta alone. turn upbefore 3amunlessyouwanttodance is aslickdiscoteca withadress code. Don’t Maltés) A coupleof doors along,Tropiscafo beams In theportarea, ifyoudon’trecognise Copas Celestial aroundAlicante’s canbrowse Self-caterers Nou Manolín If you’re stillonyourfeet, take thenight An easywalkaway,Z opener Early Piripi isatinysweatbox dance-bar thatgoes This highly regarded Thishighly restaurant is ( isafriendlyplacetokickoffthe % (SantoTomas6) airport El Altet 96 5227940;Avenida OscarEsplá30;mains ( % This mellowbare-brick place La Llum

Desdén Café Bar Desdén Café (Calle SanPascual 1) 96 5200368;CalleVillegas3;menús . isanotherheaving dance (cnr CallesMontengon&Padre

(Calle Coloma; ( % 96 6919100) alicantinos El Templo delRock covered market covered (Calle delosLab- isheavenly h Tue-Sun) , gate- . 619

VALENCIA VALENCIA VALENCIA Playa de San Juan (€0.95), Benidorm (€3.45) Playa deSanJuan(€0.95),Benidorm trenet takes over. ItrunstoDenia(€7.75)via wherenorthwards asfarElCampello, the halfhour)runs ning attimes.Atram(every routefollows acoastal that’sscenicallystun- the train service, pleasant daytrip –asmuchpleasant fortheboatride of flies, makes Alicante fora as theseagull A tripto Tabarca, around15kmto20kmsouth Isla deTabarca AROUND ALICANTE ( ( Cars Javea companies operatingfromtheairport include passing bythenorthsideof thebusstation. delMar PlazaPuerta between and theairport, of thecentre. 40minutes BusC-6runsevery El Altet airport isaround12kmsouthwest Getting Around Altea two hours and every toDenia(€8.20). (€5.35).Trainsrunhourly asfar and Calpe % five hours, daily). eight 3¾ hours, five (€47.25, daily)andBarcelona daily) viaVillenaandXátiva,Madrid (€38.60, Elche, Valencia (€24.50,twohours, upto10 (€5.10, 1½hours, hourly)viaOrihuelaand de Madrid Destinations fromthemain TRAIN Madrid (€33,4¼hours). At leastfourserve (€3.40,onehour,atleasthourly). Benidorm townssuch Blancacoastal as Costa through €18.55, 2¾hours). Others, much slower,pass rundailytoValenciatorway buses (€16.30to From thebusstation BUS in Algeria. company, runregular ferries to/fromOran ranea.es) Acciona Trasmediterránea BOAT Goflightline.which alsocallsitself www.servitour.es) at Alicante airport,are Servitour 620 % % There are also Two cut-priceoperators, bothwithoffices Reliable andvery economical localcar-hire Valenciana delaGeneralitat Ferrocarriles 900 720472) 96 5830254;www.victoriacars.com) 96 6461000;www.solmar.es) COSTA BLANCA••AroundAlicante andRomeu ( % (Avenida deSalamanca) 96 5793312;www.javeacars.com) andV. 2000 Travel hasatramandnarrow-gauge taxis ( trenet (littletrain),which %

( % ( 96 5200401) % 96 5130700) (www.acciona-trasmediter 96 5101611) Victoria Cars andVictoria include Murcia ( . Renfe Estación Renfe % ( , anAlgerian % over 10mo- 96 6919460) 96 5682642; . , Solmar (FGV; ,

10am-2pm Sat) & 4-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) & 4-6pmMon-Fri, 58 88;Avenida delaEstación;admissionfree; with a lightness ofwith alightness touch. 2pm &4.30-10pmTue-Sun) its economy. production remains elementof animportant visitors, Torrevieja hasgood salt beaches. Sea proportionofWith ahigh northernEuropean pop 83,350 TORREVIEJA excavation continues.Take bus9or21. town plan,andmore waitstoberevealed as can make outitsclearlydefinedstreets and 10am-2pm SunOct-May) 10am-2pm&4-6pmMon-Sat, Mon-Sat, 9am-noonSunJun-Sep, ( the remains of the Roman townof Lucentum deManisesOn andaroundtheTossal spread Lucentum regular year-round. sailings both Alicante andTorrevieja andthere are less in permitted areas. you’ll enjoysomegreat underwater viewing fish don’tunderstand such boundariesand est point,are protected and no-go areas. But island, 1800mlongand400mwideatitswid- mask. Much of thewaters thatlapthissmall tourists insummer. Pack yourtowelandface- cycling trackthatfollows anoldrailwayline, that youcanprowl around. Wed-Sun) offers free transportfrom thebusstation. a funwater parkon theoutskirtsof town.It it aloudand the punwillmake youwince–is adult/child €18.50/12.80; Salinera delaIndustria de Interpretación and bric-a-brac, andthemore recent Centro 1.30pm Sun) 10; admissionfree; Sal to To appreciate stillmeanssomuch why salt Sights &Activities vieja.com; PlazadeCapdepont; itself asfortheisland,which canheaveitself with % Aquópolis Ciber P@redes Ciber P@redes In summer,dailyboatsvisittheislandfrom The El Delfín The Museo del Mar ydela delMar torrevejenses, visittheMuseo (Sea & Salt Museum; &SaltMuseum; (Sea 96 5262434;adult/child€2/1.20; tourist office tourist isadecommissioned navy submarine Via Verde isa6km long Via walking and , anappealingclutter of mementoes ( % isnearthewaterfront. Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com ( % 96 6706838;admission free; h (Calle Pedro Lorca13;perhr€2; 96 5715890;Finca laHoyaGrandes/n; 10am-2pm &5-9pmMon-Sat,10am- , forerunner of Alicante. You % h ( has Internet access. % 11am-7pm mid-Jun–Aug) – 96 6706838;CallePatricio Pérez h 96 5703433;www.webtorre , more didacticyet 8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, h lonelyplanet.com 9am-noon & 7-10pm 9am-noon &7-10pm h h h ( 10am-1pm % 10.30am- 5-10pm 96 570 say

Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com to yourhotel. the Cartagena road. the Cartagena is4.5kmsouthof Campana townon site, La €60/85; 15;s/dwithbreakfast €45/63,Jul–mid-Sep Calle VillaMadrid from the run-of-the-mill promenade restau- from the run-of-the-mill ( Profi outing.Rentabike fromDaBike half-day pans,itmakes thesalt foragreatthrough years ago. Runningbesidethelagoonand down which thelasttrainsteamed over 50 lonelyplanet.com rants, the highly regardedrants, the highly ‘Jetty’ great does mains €10-14,pizzas€8-12; mains. and tasty couple. Itoffers sandwiches,pizzas salads, havenetarian is runbyaSpanish-Australian block backfromthebeachfront, thislittleveg- Lorca 13;mains€9,salads€5.25-8; and enjoygreat grilledfresh fish. II,parkyourself onapatio On PlazaIsabel offer cheap mealsandinternational menus. Plenty of restaurants aroundthewaterfront Eating comeatnoextracost. sea the downtownfrenzy. Roomsoverlooking the end choice, eastof townandremote fromall extensively renovated in2003,isalovely top- €77-120; [email protected]; Alfredo Nobel150;s€55-90,d top-floor Jacuzzi. Parking costs€7. for travellers There’s withdisabilities. alsoa fairlyspaciousrooms,oneequipped fortable, up, theMadrid isafriendlyoptionwithcom- Parking is€8. furniture andplentyof pleasingwoodwork. inthenewwinghavebalcony. Those fresh has57trim,modernrooms,manywith Cano pa €40/60; €30/40,Jul–mid-Sep Calle Zoa53;s/dmid-Sep–Jun person/tent €4.25 LaCampana Camping Sleeping child return) totheislandof leave insummerfordaytrips(€20/14adult/ parking area andthejettyfromwhich boats Hire Bike per day/three days/week€12/24/39) % El Muelle Vegetariano Restaurante Internacional Masa Hotel Cano Hotel Just tothesouthof thetouristofficeisalarge Madrid Hotel 96 6928367;CallePedro Lorca49;perday€7) pai ) Five blockswestof the thebusstation, pas ( % ( % 655 338066; www.costablancabikehire.com; 655 338066;www.costablancabikehire.com; / ( 11; % 96 670 41 72; Paseo Marítimo Juan Aparicio; 96 6704172;Paseo JuanAparicio; Marítimo ( % ) With 40 rooms and one star With40roomsandonestar

h ) 96 6700958;www.hotelcano.com; This smart clifftop hotel, This smartclifftop 96 571 00 38; www.ansahotel.com; 96 5710038;www.ansahotel.com; Apr-Sep) ( a % ) /fax 965712152;sitesper ( East of and set apart of apart East andset % ( h Thenearest camp % Tabarca (opposite ). , whowilldeliver 96 6706683;CallePedro Tue-Sun; 96 6921537;hotel v or Family ) One INLAND FROMTHECOSTA BLANCA••Xàtiva 10am-2.30pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-2pm & 4-6pm 10am-2.30pm Sat&Sunmid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-2pm &4-6pm retgería 46;adult/child€2.10/1.10; Machado) English brochure, the Alameda. Ask atthetouristofficefor its Attractions of interest liesouthanduphillfrom Sights &Activities 10am-1.30pmSat&Sunmid-Sep–mid-Jun)4-6pm Tue-Fri, h The Information most of thetown. ended in1707whenFelipe V’stroopstorched itsglorydays fortuneinItaly, who sought and of thepainter José Ribera(1591–1652), IIIandAlexanderVI Borgia PopesCalixtus lencia’s second-largest city.Birthplaceof the Vernissa, thetownsnuggles. base atwhose castlestrungalongthecrestmighty of theSerra anda a smallhistoricquarter, townmuseum rewarding 50kmdaytripfromValencia. Ithas Játiva) Xàtiva (Castilian: pop 28,200 XÀTIVA transport. to explore thishinterland iswithyourown truly Spanish world.Byfartheeasiestway west of theA7,tofindyourselfinadifferent, a motorway.Venture awayfromtheMed, and theinterior is,perhaps appropriately, theholidaycostaThe borderlinebetween THE COSTA BLANCA INLAND FROM hours) andAlicante (€3.28,onehour). (€3.77,1¼ dailytoCartagena buses runs eight drid (€33.50,5½hours). Autocares Azul Costa From thebusstation &Away There Getting self-caterers. covered market isagreat basket-filler for orinsideinthechill ofthe sea theair-con. ontheterracelinen tablecloths. overlooking Eat oncrisp andmains,allserved pastas house on theAlameda,Xàtiva’sshady mainavenue. After XàtivabecameVa- the Reconquista, deAbastos Mercado Museo delAlmudín In theMuseo 10am-2.30pm Tue-Sun mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-1.30pm& tourist office tourist , there are dailytoMa- uptosixbuses ( % Xàtiva: Monumental Town 96 227 33 46; Alameda Jaime I 50; 96 2273346;AlamedaJaimeI50;

( (Plaza IsabelII) % 96 5710146;CalleAntonio h ( makes aneasyand % 9.30am-2.30pm Tue-Fri, 9.30am-2.30pm Tue-Fri, 96 2276597;CalleCor- Torrevieja’s 621 is is

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VALENCIA VALENCIA VALENCIA (it has only eight rooms) has been restored rooms)hasbeen (it hasonlyeight 622 cream of almonds). de almendras urchins and codwithsea (salt bacalao confusión demarycrema de erizos course lunch menúfor€15.Wesavoured their inventive mainsandanexcellent valuefour- byblack-cladwaiters. lit andstaffed Itdoes I 64;mains€12-19) €12 andisstrongonregional dishes. agood does ‘Grandmother’s House’ nowned foritsàlacarte cuisineandricedishes, mains €11-16.50,menús€13; platform) withitsplungingviewof theplains. your sundownerbesidethe agreeably dividedintointimate crannies.Sip wooden cabins.There’s asplendidrestaurant, building, onceafarm,orinoneof thespacious palm trees andorange groves. inthemain Stay to thecastle,thisplaceischarmingly amid set .com; s€93.50-131,d€103-149.50; is equallyrich incharacter. restaurant ( gardenandwi-fi.work, withasecluded Its spacious place,allmellowbrickandwood- with very considerableflair. It’sawonderfully 6;r€82; nida Ribera delasNieves Virgen Huerto Hotel Sleeping &Eating a taxi orcall and 4.30pm(5.30pmJunetoSeptember) that headsupfromthetouristofficeat12.30pm hop aboard thelittletouristtrain(€3.80return) (1269), Xàtiva’soldestchurch. Alternatively, thelovelyright, Romanesque IglesiadeSantFeliu the 18th-centuryErmitadeSanJoséand,to Onthewayup,onyourleftis sensational. h the Spanishcivilwar. assassinated bytheRepublicansideduring chapels are 20th-centuryportraitsof clerics contemporary curiosity:inacoupleof side fully illuminated, tend towardsthekitsch. A care- Thepaintingsandstatues, but littleelse. legiate Church) impresses byitssheer size down inretribution thetown. forhissacking can’t miss theportraitof Felipe V,hungupside by Ribera,are uponthepenultimate floor. You most interest, includingacoupleof fineportraits 10am-2pmSat&Sunmid-Sep–mid-Jun)Tue-Fri, It’s alongclimbtothe Basílica The 16th-centuryColegiata Canela yClavo Canela Casa laAbuela Casa MontSant Hostería 10am-6pm or7pm) ( % INLAND FROMTHECOSTA BLANCA••Villena 96 2271681) menús ais Thisplaceisspacious,well (

% ( , fromwhere theviewsare % €15-40), opentoallcomers, . ( 96 228 10 85; Calle de la Reina 17; 17; 96 2281085;CalledelaReina % 96 2282426;AlamedaJaume 96 2275081;www.mont-sant h pas castle ) Thisintimate hotel mid-Aug–mid-Jul) mirador

( (adult/child €2.10/1.10; (adult/child €2.10/1.10; % 96 2287058;Ave- ) On the road Ontheroad (viewing (viewing items of for menú for (Col- Re-

3pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pmSat&Sun) 3pm Mon-Fri, pop 55,600 p624). theboxed (see from 5to9September text, ing exceptMondayuntil1pm. Guidedvisitsareat night. offered morn- every delaAtalaya Castillo Perched above high thetown,12th-century andfoundbychance inanoldriverbed. BC overweighing 10kg,datingfromaround1000 pride of itscollectionare 60goldartefacts quarter. The that dotthecorridorof theVal deVinalopó. Albacete, isthemostattractive of thetowns AlicanteVillena, ontheN330between and pop 34,200 VILLENA Alicante (€8.15-19.50,1½hours, sixdaily). Madrid trainsstophere too. Youcanalsoreach andmostValencia–45 minutes, half-hourly) connectXàtivawithValenciaservices (€2.85, The trainisbyfaryourbestbet.Frequent &Away There Getting wrought-iron staircase take thebreath staircase away. wrought-iron period furniture and magnificentspiralling glass,softin 1903,itsstained shapesin wood, 11am-2pm Sat) 22;admissionfree; Calle Mayor wonderful 25km pilgrimage fromAlicante toNovelda’s known as If you’re afanof ArtNouveau (more often pop 26,250 Sofialos, Queen and otherwell-shod greats. matadors, flamencodancers, KingJuanCar- agony towear;anddonated cast-offs from world; fancifuldesignsthatmusthave been theages;fromaround boots through shoes machines, it’swall-to-wallfootwear: sewing its rowsof Heath and Robinsondrills,stamps & 4-8pmTue-Sun) 30 21;Avenida Chapí32;adult/child€2.50/1.25; miss the ofing capital Spain. Footfetishists shouldn’t Elda vieswithElche forthetitleof shoemak- h the fine16th-century Santiago 2) Villena celebrates its Plaza deSantiagoisattheheartof theold 10am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Fri, 11am-2pmSat&Sun) 10am-2pm &5-8pmTue-Fri, Arqueológico istheMuseo Museo delCalzado Museo Modernismo inSpanish),make the Casa-Museo Modernista Casa-Museo . Abourgeois mansioncompleted Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com tourist office tourist . Above themezzaninefloorwith (admission free) h Palacio Municipal fiesta fiesta Moros yCristianos (

% 9am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm &4-7pmMon-Fri, (Shoe Museum; (Shoe Museum; is at No 5. Within isatNo5.Within 96 5803804; lonelyplanet.com is splendidly lit is splendidlylit ( % (admission free; (admission free; h 96 5600237; % 10am-1pm h (Plaza de (Plaza de . The . The 96 538 8am- info.net; CalleSanLorenzo 2) Roja exterior of theheadquarters of thelocal lovely a Cultural,itself is withinthetown’sCentro 6; Mayor lonelyplanet.com (€5.75) and acoupletoGandia (€3.75). to Valencia (€11.25),at least10toAlicante run threebus station, tosixdailyservices (€6.75, twohours) viaXàtiva. Fromthenearby evenings. with drinkers anddiners onwarmsummer de Dins,arcadedandmore intimate, ispacked parking (€6)ashort walkaway. kept andmosthave abathtub.There’s locked options intown.Roomsare trimandwell España andoneof onlythree accommodation Calle Casablanca9;s/d/trwithbathroom€35/50/65; thefestival’smansion, ithouses museum. 1.30pm Sat&Sun) sion €1.50; de SantJordi visitthe costumes andafeel forthefiesta, (see the boxed text, p624 ). holds itsresplendent here 22and24April,whenAlcoy between Alicante. Butthere’s todrawyou everything of Alcoy(Valenciano: Alcoi),54kmnorthof to enticeyouthelugubriousindustrialtown ayear,there’sFor 51¾weeks really notalot 565m pop 60,950/elevation ALCOY by thehectolitre theland. throughout Jijona, apopularbrandof icecream thatsells of summer. acoastal Andsoitlentitsnameto hinterland ice fromthehigh toassuage theheat the placewasalsoastopover forporters bearing with bothsoft andcrunchy variants.Inthepast, principal producerof has twoclaimstofame. Nowadays,it’sSpain’s Alicantebetween andAlcoy.Thissmalltown Xixona), ontheN340more orlessmidway to make apilgrimage toJijona(Valenciano: If youlove youreally allthingssweet, ought JIJONA a friendlyplace,oneblocksouthof Plazade de España. Novelda’s There are fourtrainsdailyto/fromValencia Immediately westof PlazadeEspaña,Plaxa Hostal Savoy Alcoy’s To get someideaof thesplendourof the (Spanish Red Cross;PlazadelAyuntamiento) (Spanish Red Modernista h h 9am-2pm & 4.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pmSat) 9am-2pm &4.30-6pmMon-Fri, tourist office tourist ( 11am-1pm & 5.30-7.30pm Tue-Fri, 10.30am- 11am-1pm &5.30-7.30pmTue-Fri, % tourist office tourist ( . Occupyingan18th-century % 96 554 05 80; Calle San Miguel 62;admis- 96 5540580;CalleSanMiguel 96 5547272;www.hostalsavoy.com; building. Admire toothe is just off the main Plaza isjustoffthemainPlaza turrón, akindof nougat festival Moros yCristianos ( % 96 5537155;alcoi@tourist ( % 96 5609228;Calle . p Casal Casal Cruz ) is INLAND FROMTHECOSTA BLANCA••Jijona sensitive presentationof whatlife inGuadal- Tourist office Tourist Cybercafé Acto Entre Information to reach thetouristofficeandtown centre. thenleftagaindownPaseotad, delaEstación From either,goleftalongAvenida delaLiber- Avenida delFerrocarril), northof thecentre. other onAvenida (alsocalled delaLibertad and monumentslieonitseastern side. lopó. Theolderquarter andmostof the parks The townissplitnorth–southbyRíoVina- Orientation rately signed inEnglish. pomegranates. figs, almonds,dates –and85%of Spain’s tural districtthatstillproducescitrusfruit, converted theregion intoarich agricul- by theArabs.Muslimirrigationsystems largest andmostnortherly,originallyplanted and foritsextensive palm groves, Europe’s theboxednual mystery play(see text, p625 ) site twiceover:fortheMisteri d’Elx,itsan- (Valenciano: Elx)isaUnescoWorldHeritage A mere 23kmsouthwestof Alicante, Elche pop 215,150 ELCHE along. est waslike before thecoach partiescame welcome; Etnológico isthediminutiveorientated tackiness Museo atraffic-free village.to strollthrough 6pm or7pm) deSanJosé Castillo by anaturaltunnelandoverlooked bythe your own. has pulledoutandtheplacewillbealmost get there putafter early,orstay thelastbus more thantwomillionvisitors annually.But Blancaresorts,up fromtheCosta disgorge lage of Guadalest;nowadayscoaches, heading You’ll befarfromthefirst todiscover thevil- GUADALEST Internet access. €3; corner of Parque Municipal (Town Park). corner ofParque (Town Municipal h Train and bus stations areTrain andbusstations besideeach One littlejewelamidsomuch day-tripper- Guadalest,reachedCrowds comebecause Its sights areIts sights comprehensively andaccu- h 10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pmSun) Atthesoutheast 9am-midnight Mon-Fri, 3pm-2amSat&Sun) 9am-midnight Mon-Fri, h , is indeed very, isindeed pretty, andit’sajoy ( 10am-6pm daily Jun-Oct, Sun-Fri Nov-May) Sun-Fri 10am-6pm dailyJun-Oct, % ( % 96 5885238;admissionfree, donations 96 545 27 47; www.turismedelx.com; 96 5452747;www.turismedelx.com; (adult/child €3.50/1.50; (Calle SantaBarbara15;perhr h 10.30am-

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, a VALENCIA VALENCIA VALENCIA audioguide €5/3; 40; Porta delaMorera 12;adult/child€3/1; 40; Porta Centro deVisitantes make yourwaytotheCentro screens andgiantcomputer animations. artefacts, selected touch-history through Spanish andEnglish, thatrecounts theElche’s Nov-Mar) h (MAHE; and typicalfruittrees of the chard withitsgurgling irrigationchannels adjacentpalmgrovethe delightful andor- Spain inPalm Sundayrites. Wanderthrough blanched, woven throughout frondsused it’s allabout thedate palmandtheintricate 1.30pm SunNov–mid-May). 10am-2pm&4-7pmMon-Sat,10am- daily mid-May–Oct, delPalmeral structive istheMuseo lawns andcolourfulflowerbeds.More in- Feb) delCura Huerto groves. Palm Groves the Route)leadsyouthrough at thetouristofficeforitsleaflet, oasis. Asigned3kmwalkingtrail(asktable the heartof thisbusyindustrialtownaveri- each withalifespan of some 250years, make ofin need ahaircut,mosttrimandclipped, Around 200,000palmtrees, someshaggy and Sights &Activities 624 For analternative of overview thetown, The Opposite thehotel of name,the thesame Guardamar (late July), onthecoastnear theborderwitih Murcia. August), bothinlandinValencia province; Biar(10to 13May),inlandinAlicante province; and beaches. majorfestivals Other includethoseofBocairent (1 to5February) and Ontinyent(end thelandingofMuslim shipsonthewhile LaVila Joiosa (24to31July),nearBenidorm,re-enacts of theReconquista. Forexample, Villena’s festival (5to9September) features midnightparades, crowds. brass bands,explodingblunderbusses, firework displaysandconfetti showeringdownon the Muslimwarriorsbearing scimitarsandshields,turban-toppedArabs,scantilycladwenches,cloaked fortress. ofsightsandsounds:soldiersinshiningarmour,white- It’sanexhilaratingspectacle processionswithmockbattles. colourful guild groups,towncriers,heralds,bands–andmarchthroughthestreets and inspectacular rate traditionalcostumesrepresenting different –MuslimandChristiansoldiers,slaves, ‘factions’ from Muslimrule. Cristianos (MoorsandChristiansfestival) tocelebrate the Reconquista,region’s liberation More than80townsandvillagesinthesouth ofValencia holdtheirownFiesta de Moros y FIESTAS DEMOROSYCRISTIANOS 10am-10pm daily Apr-Oct, shorter hoursandclosedMon shorter 10am-10pm dailyApr-Oct, isalovely private gardenwithtended Each townhasitsownvariationonthe format,steeped intraditionsthatalludetotheevents The variousprocessionsconverge upon Alcoy’s mainplazaanditshuge,temporary wooden Biggest andbestknownisAlcoy’s(22to24April),whenhundreds oflocalsdress upinelabo- % INLAND FROMTHECOSTA BLANCA••Elche is agreat wellsignedin newmuseum, Museo Arqueológico y de Historia deElche ydeHistoria Arqueológico Museo 96 6615382;DiagonaldelPalau s/n;admissionfree; h (Porta delaMorera 49;adult/childwith (Porta 9am-sunset Mar-Oct, 10am-5pmNov- 9am-sunset Mar-Oct, In aformerfarmhouse, . huerta h ( % 10am-8pm Historic 96 54222

€15/30) FaroHotel Sleeping &Eating lithic tolate Visigoth times. that wasoccupiedcontinuouslyfromNeo- displays therich findingsfromasettlement 10am-2pmSunyear-round) Sat Oct-Mar, h Arqueológico p135).Visitthesite’s excellent (see ArqueológicoNacionalcollectionMuseo Iberian artthatnowformspartof Madrid’s earthed theDamadeElche, amaster-piece of 3.5km southof thetowncentre. Here wasun- (adult/child €2/1; ances of theMisteri d’Elx.Climbupits ( with optionalEnglishsoundtrack. runs anenjoyable audiovisual presentation h % commentary. audiovisual presentationwithmultilingual behind thetouristoffice,runsa10-minute This Arab-stylebuilding,located inthepark (admission free; spotless rooms. is alittlegem. It’sroomsare simpleand eye viewover thepalms. h Te elsge well-signed The The vastbaroque 12th-century The 10am-1.30pm &4.30-8pmTue-Sat, 10.30am-1.30pmSun) 10am-2pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat Apr-Sep, 10am-5pmMon- 10am-2pm &4-8pmMon-SatApr-Sep, 96 5452887;PlazaSantaLucia 14;adult/child€1/0.50; 7am-1.30pm &5.30-9pm) Thisfriendlynine-roomfamilyplace ( % Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com ( h h 96 546 62 63; Camí dels Magros 24;basics/d 96 5466263;CamídelsMagros % 10am-7pm Mon-Sat,10am-2pmSun). 11am-6pm or7pm) 96 6611506;adult/child€2.50/1.80; Alcúdia archaeological site Alcúdia archaeological Baños Árabes Basílica deSantaMaría is used forperform- is used lonelyplanet.com forapigeon’s- . The museum rb Baths ( Arab Museo Museo tower tower is ;

€8-12, menús€14-20) shaded gardens.Parking isfree andthere’s here isintrimbungalowswithinlush, palm- lonelyplanet.com via Orihuela. bound for Alicante (€1.75)orMurcia (€2.45) railway. Around20 trainsdailyrattlethrough, and sixto/fromMurcia (€3.50). daily toValencia (€10.30)viaEldaandVillena Alicante (€1.70). to/from half-hour every SuBús operates buses &Around There Getting street withtables. isset almostthewholelengthofevenings thisshort 14) Bar LosExtremeños good, cheap andcheerful eateries including hasacluster of delCarmen) Nuestra Señora prices. localcuisineatreasonablein towntosample institutional andit’soneof thebestplaces receptions). Even so,thecuisineisfarfrom theyhadthree wedding passed simultaneous modate almost 2000diners (lasttimewe this vastemporiumtoeatingcanaccom- itsrenownedCapellans, restaurant. longest luxuryhotel standing bydininginEls wi-fi atElche’s access.Complete thecosseting €88; Fri-Sun delaMorera 14;rMon-Thudelcura.com; Porta €90-110, , which serves great Onsummer tapas. , which serves Carrer Mare (Calle deDéudel Carmé delCura Huerto Hotel Elche islocated ontheAlicante toMurcia DátildeOro Restaurante fireworks. music, theringing ofbells,cheersallroundand–hey,we’re intheValencia region –spectacular at peace. Oncereceived toswelling intoparadise,sheiscrownedQueenofHeaven andEarth apostles onelasttime. They arrive onebyfromdistantlandsand,intheircompany,shedies describing OurLady’sdeath,assumptionintoheaven andcoronation. Inside were astatueoftheVirgin andthe Elche’s BasílicadeSantaMaría. The MISTERI D’ELX 9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-1pmSun) repeated several timesdaily,withoptionalEnglishcommentary. 14 and15August respectively (withpublicrehearsals onthethree previous days). inValencianoassumption andcoronation),are performed bythepeopleofElchethemselves on la Festa The mystery’s twoacts, The storytells howtheVirgin, realising thatdeathisnear,asksGodtoallowher seethe waswasheduponElche’sMediterraneanOne distantday,accordingtolegend,acasket shore. You canseeamultimediapresentation apostle–inthe –complete withvirtual a two-act lyric drama dating from the Middle Ages, is performed annually in Ages, lyricdramadatingfromtheMiddle isperformed Misteri d’Elx,atwo-act pnais ( % 96 545 34 64; Carrer Major delaVila25;adult/child€3/1.80; 96 5453464;Carrer Major Withinthemunicipalpark, ALSA (Calle Nuestra Señora delCarmen (Calle NuestraSeñora (www.alsa.es)

( % 96 6610011;www.huerto ( ) , aboutablockwestofthebasilica. The showlasts35minutes andis % Accommodation La Vespra (theeve ofherdeath)and 965 453415;mains runs six buses runs sixbuses Consueta, themusicandlibretto ofamystery play INLAND FROMTHECOSTA BLANCA••Orihuela century tilework. cloisterssance andarefectory rich in18th- Iglesia deSantiagoApóstol Episcopal are thesober baroquefaçadeof the tower gracedwithgargoyles. Alsonoteworthy 2pm Sat) Salesas 1; St Thomas . collection includes Velázquez’ little cloister andthe Sat) h edral deSanSalvador clude the14th-centuryCatalan-Gothic 5-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pmSun) (Calle AdolfoClaravanas/n; deSantoDomingo The 16th-centuryConvento Sights the IglesiadeSantiagoApostól. mid-Sep–mid-Jun)8am-3pm &5-8pmMon-Fri 25; cially) baroque buildingswellmeritsadetour. Orihuela withits Gothic, and(espe- Renaissance barren of mountain rock,thehistoricalheartof of andflush withthebase a RíoSegura Beside pop 75,000 ORIHUELA crowning the mountain, theruins ofcrowning themountain, a originally constructed bytheMuslims. Other splendidecclesiasticalbuildingsin- The The h 10am-1.30pm & 4-6.30pm or 5-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pm 10am-1.30pm 10am-1.30pm &4-6.30pmor5-8pmMon-Fri, with three finely carved portals, alovely portals, with three finelycarved 8am-2.30pm & 5-7.30pm Mon-Fri mid-Jun–mid-Sep,8am-2.30pm &5-7.30pmMon-Fri has a Renaissance façade and aGothic hasaRenaissance tourist office tourist Iglesia delasSantasJustayRufina h (Calle Ramón yCajal) (Calle Ramón 10am-2pm & 4-7pm or 5-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am- 10am-2pm &4-7pmor5-8pmTue-Fri, La Festa La h 10am-1pm &4.30-8.30pmor5- ( (Calle Doctor Sarget; admission €1.20; Sarget;admission€1.20; (Calle Doctor % (thecelebrationofher h 96 5302747;CalleFranciscoDie Museo Diocesano Museo hastwofineRenais-

(Plaza deSantiago2) 10am-1.30pm &4-7pmor , the14th-century Temptation of Museu de de Museu isopposite , whose , whose Palacio castle and, (Plaza 625 Cat-

VALENCIA VALENCIA VALENCIA 4-7pm or5-8pmTue-Sat, 10am-2pmSun) 626 gobbled upbytheMelia chain. There’s wi- renovated 18th-centurybuilding,recently Palace thewordforthistastefully isindeed www.solmelia.com; CalleAlfonsoXIII1;r€88-99; small balconies. tiled floorsfacingthesquare andthose have of town.Allof its23roomshave bathtuband hotel isatidyoptioninthemore modernpart 1st fl,Avenida deTeodomiro 10;s/d€30/50; Teodomiro Rey Hostal-Residencia Sleeping &Eating baths, domesticbuildingsandaGothicpalace. vast underground remains of thecitywalls, Arab 530 4698;CalledelRíos/n;admissionfree; for the English leaflet) leads you through the the for theEnglishleaflet)leadsyouthrough dez. A20-minute guidedtourinSpanish (ask main doortotheUniversidad MiguelHernan- Access toOrihuela’s Hotel Melia Palacio deTudemir Melia Hotel INLAND FROMTHECOSTA BLANCA••Orihuela delaMuralla Museo

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Alicante and€1.75toMurcia. tobothplaces.Tickets cost€2.90to services Alicante–Murcia trainlineandhasfrequent Avenida deTeodomiro. Orihuelaisonthe Intermodal, anairystructure attheendof areBus andtrainstations combinedatthe &Away There Getting bar, which isalittlecheaper. its eccentricallytiledrestaurant andgloomy goodfoodin to thefarend),Ateneo serves lavish (stridethrough 19th-centuryCasino €12-17, menús€12) ofwide selection meatandfishmains. place dishesupagoodchoice of anda tapas tapas from€3.50,mains€6-12) limited diningoptions. ( caféanditsrestaurantfi access,apleasant menús Ateneo Ateneo BarCasablanca Cafè €15 and€35)isthebestof Orihuela’s ( % Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com 96 5304018;CalleCardenalLoaces1;mains The restaurant of Orihuela’s ( % Thisunpretentious 96 530 10 29; Calle Meca 1; 96 5301029;CalleMeca lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow, orresell it. See everyone site,massemailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake

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