JANUARY - MARCH 2015

The Voice of Conservation in East Africa

CHEATING THE CHEETAH BETTER VIEWER MANNERS REQUIRED

ARABUKO SOKOKE ’S FAMED FOREST GETS REPRIEVE The East African region is well known 1. Become a member Conservancy and mail it to 38 for the richness and beauty of its 2. Make a donation Miller Ave, Mill Valley, CA 94941 . It has been this that 3. Leave a legacy in your will with EAWLS noted on the memo has made the region a favourite line. Credit card donations can destination for millions of visitors. But 1. If you are interested in becoming a be made by calling Lewa USA’s this precious inheritance is under real member, then this can be done quite Executive Director, Ginger pressure from unplanned development, easily online by visiting our website: Thomson at 415.627.8187. mismanagement, corruption, population www.eawildlife.org; selecting the growth and a lack of understanding click here for more information • For UK, we have now registered that good economic growth depends under the Subscribe or Renew East African Wild Life Society on maintaining a healthy environment Membership title on the home (UK) as a UK Registered Charity in all its attributes as the platform for page, and following the procedures (Charity No. 1153041). Donations development. requested. would be entitled to tax relief. EAWLS (UK) has a dedicated bank The East African Wild Life Society 2. For a donation, we have now made account and the details can be is home grown. We are part of East it possible for you to enjoy tax relief provided by contacting Nigel African Society culture and future. if you live in the USA or UK. Hunter at: We care deeply, in line with Kenya’s [email protected] if Constitution, which states that everyone • For USA, we have a formal you are interested in making a has the right to a healthy environment partnership with Lewa USA, bank transfer. If you wish to use now and for generations to come. who enjoy 501(c)(3) tax relief the cheque option, then these That future demands that we keep our entitlement for donations and should be made out to East biodiversity intact. Therefore the Society legacies. The donations have African Wild Life Society (UK) has advocacy as a major instrument to be made out to Lewa USA and sent to Mrs Emma Stewart, in addressing the threats we face and but it is easy to indicate that Townend of Grange, Dunlop, we don’t flinch in facing up to that the donation is committed to Kilmarnock, KA3 4EG responsibility. But the more support we EAWLS through the Lewa Wildlife get, the stronger our voice becomes. programme. The donation can 3. If considering a legacy, then please be made by visiting www.lewa. contact Nigel Hunter, who can make Please therefore help EAWLS by org or if you would like to make useful information available to you. supporting us. This can be done in three the donation by cheque, please ways. make it out to Lewa Wildlife

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39 Losers or Survivors. The Mara's Frontlines Cheetah adapt to survive Spotlight 5 Editor's Letter 51 Reprieve for Arabuko-Sokoke Elena Chelysheva has spent 16 Chairman's Letter Forest, but for how long? decades studying cheetah and 18 Director's Letter EAWLS writers analyse the shares some of her insighs and her 20 EAWLS News implications of a decision by fears for this species. 22 News Roundup CAMAC to stop oil exploration in a key piece of coastal forest 44 Q/A With Jake Grieves-Cook enterprises. Gamewatchers CEO Conservation Andy Hill talks to the man behind 26 Shillings or Sense? Time to 55 International Coastal Cleanup the lauded Porini concept of low- strike the balance in the Mara East Africa Results impact, low-density Mara tourism Jonathan and Angela Scott plea S t e v e Tr o t t gives us the league table and draws out lessons for Kenyan for a sensible approach to the of the region’s cleanest beaches and tourism in general. development of Kenya’s national pleas for us to keep beaches tidy. treasure. 48 Community Conservancies in 58 Amboseli Game Camp goes Kenya come of Age 32 Mara Elephant Project with the solar glow Sophie Harrison launches a Not just the Animals Rupert Watson goes to a camp lit regular Northern Rangelands Trust Colin Church briefs us on how a by solar power in an interesting column with a look at what NRT project that focuses on protecting hook-up between provider and does and how it changes habitat the elephant is benefiting to all. consumer. and lives.

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55 74

60 Maasai Olympics. From A Field Guide to the larger killing to Athletics Conservation of Colin Church let's us watch Maasai Characters By Charles Foley, Lara Foley, test their bravery with sporting kills 70 From a prospective pastoralist to Alex Lobora, Daniela De Luca, rather than lion kills in this exciting a convinced conservationist MaurusMsuha, Tim Davenport & and now regular Maasai Olympic Felix Patton talks to a man who was Sarah Durant event. brought up thinking wildlife was a 63 George Adamson roars from hunting opportunity and a nuisance, An App for East African the grave, 25 years later but is now working in Ugandan watchers Paul Udoto of KWS hails the conservation. By Terry Stevenson and John relaunch of Kora camp, made Fanshawe with Brian Finch famous by George Adamson and Elsa. Portfolio 74 The Hyena hind leg tackle Rear Window Munir Virani captures in full tooth 79 A Tale of a tusk with On Safari and claw colour how a hyena takes a happy ending 66 Segera Retreat. Where Luxury down a wildebeest. Giovanna Girardello shares an and Philosophy Meet elephant story with a happy ending, Andy Hill basks in luxury at a new for once. resort blending conservation, art Book Review and communities. 77 Culture Clash By Rupert Watson

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 3 JANAURY- MARCH - VOLUME 39, NUMBER 1

The is the symbol of the East African Wild Life Society SWARA is the Swahili word for Antelope

Patrons The President of Kenya­ The President of Tanza­ nia­ The President of ­

Chairman Mr. Joseph Gilbert Kibe

Vice-Chairmen Editor Mr. Philip Coulson Andy Hill Mr. Tom Ferrandes Capt. John E. Otekat Editorial Board Nigel Hunter HON. Treasurer Michael Gachanja Michael Kidula Mbaya Esmond Martin Executive Director William Pike Michael Gachanja Patricia Kameri-Mbote Trustees Munir Virani Frederick IB Kayanja Lucy Waruingi Albert Mongi Adalja Mahendra Krishnalal Design & Layout William Ronkorua Ole Ntimama George Kamau Muhoho George Okello Mahmud Jan Mohamed Circulation and Subscriptions Members Of Council Rose Chemweno Hon. Wilbur Otichilo Ms. Cissy Walker Advertising / Sales Dr. Esmond Bradley Martin Gideon Bett Dr. Margaret Karembu Mr. Mike Watson

EAWLS Mission To advocate and collaborate on the safeguarding and sustainable Copyright © 2015 management of East Africa's natural resources SWARA is a quarterly magazine owned and pub­lished by the East African Wild Life So­ci­e­ty, a non-profit­ mak­ing or­gan­isa­tion formed in SWARA Offices 1961. No part of this publication may be reproduced by any means C/O EAWLS Head Office whatsoever without the written consent of the editor. Opin­ions P O Box 20110 – 00200, Riara Road, Kilimani, Nairobi ex­pressed by con­trib­u­tors are not nec­es­sar­i­ly the official view of the Tel: + 254-20-3874145 Fax: +254-20-3870335 Society. SWARA ac­cepts the in­for­ma­tion given by [email protected] contrib­ u­ tors­ as correct. Letters to the Editor: [email protected] African Journal of Ecology The African Journal of Ecology is Published by Wiley – Blackwell in association with East African Wild Life Society. Purchase a copy of this Journal at Wiley Online Library: EAWLS WORLDWIDE REPRESENTATIVES http://wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/aje. Netherlands SWITZERLAND Stichting EAWLS Therese & Bernhard Sorgen Ridderhoflaan 37 Erlenweg 30 8302 Kloten 2396 C J Koudekerk A/D RIJN USA Grant & Barbara Winther USA 867 Taurnic Pl. NW Mr & Mrs Harry Ewell Bainbridge Island, WA 98110 Financial Representatives FINLAND, sweden, norway 200 Lyell Avenue Spencerport Roseanna Avento NY 14559-1839 [email protected] SWARA appreciates the continued support it receives from +358405355405 & Flora International

4 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 Would you take your coffee and croissant into the National Museum?

So why do we accept unacceptable the starting line for some crazy rally. It’s behaviour in our Parks and the thoughtless nudging up towards a Conservancies, which display ancient cheetah at rest. It’s allowing a cheetah treasure we should not touch, have a to sit on a vehicles’ roof in blissful certain sanctity and contain, in very ignorance of the fact that the beast is many cases, species on the verge of the probably leaving a “marking” message wildlife equivalent of the Accident and there by mistake – and that it will get Emergency wing – the endangered or lost in the post the moment the car extinction list? moves off. And it’s the sheer lunacy of Is it because widespread going off road when it is not permitted, understanding of the uniqueness of such or getting out of a vehicle to get even places is not ingrained into our social closer to that beast for the prize shot. mores? Is it a sign of human disrespect Aircraft flying into Kenya all have for the environment, the self-same laminated safety advice for their ould you take your croissant arrogance that causes conservationists passengers. Isn’t it time there was a and cappuccino into the so much grief and the media so much similar document detailing the most WLouvre museum? Or vault doomsday ink? sensitive and respectful way to view the guardrail in front of the Mona Lisa Jonathan Scott, Elena Chelysheva and what is left of our natural heritage? to get a feel of the texture of ancient oil Jake Grieves-Cook all plea for a more paint? Would you eat crisps, or smoke, enlightened and respected approach Andy Hill in a Church, or double park outside a to viewing wildlife in the Conservation Editor hospital emergency entrance to pop section of this issue of SWARA, which over to the newsagent? Of course not, is devoted to the . It’s Want to comment on you say. That would be unacceptable not just the phalanx of 4WDs perched any article? Write to: behaviour completely out of keeping on the riverbank for the wildebeeste [email protected] with the importance of the place. migration, looking for all the world like

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 5 CORPORATE DONORS

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SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 11 LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

know the local languages, families Elgon National Park and Surrounds or traditions. The salaries and wages would then trickle down into the local Dear Editor, moorlands, including several huts, communities, showing the importance I have recently returned from a seven- well used but not at the time I came of maintaining the wildlife and keeping day walk through the wonderful forests across them. All the paraphernalia the forests free from poaching. of Mt Elgon. associated with snares and trapping, Many of the Elgon caves which were skins and racks of drying hides were Yours sincerely once visited by elephants and other there. It appears that the animals are animals for salt are now off limits as slaughtered and the meat goes into Charles Kerfoot they are used for educational purposes. Uganda for sale as bush meat. 337 Balmoral Road A well intentioned idea which has I feel it is essential that a manned JARRAHDALE destroyed the reason the caves were ranger post be situated on the Western Australia 6214 famous and driven the wildlife away. moorlands, already accessible by I have visited most of the caves on road. At the moment it is too easy for Response to Charles Mt Elgon. For generations in the past poachers coming from Uganda to enter Kerfoot letter to the Editor elephants have used the salt in the the park and return with the bush meat. caves. I fear this phenomenon will no Dogs are used to bail up the buffalo, longer be seen. snares for duiker and bushbuck. Dear Charles, On previous occasions when I have Over the last 15 years I have often It is good to hear the concerns walked through the forest I have had the pleasure of revisiting Mt Elgon, that you have outlined as they followed game tracks. However these walking for days at time with a group bring out critical issues that we are now overgrown and there was very of local people who know and love the should be dealing with. As you little sign of any animals in the National area. Fortunately at this time the forest mention, there is a need for a Park. In the 1970s and 1980s the Elgon appears to thrive but I fear the wildlife balance in use of the Mt. Elgon National Park was home to 2000 of Mt Elgon will be lost. The numbers of caves to ensure that the original elephant. There are now less than 100 the larger species, elephant, buffalo and purpose is maintained while left. Many elephant were killed for ivory Bush buck are barely sustainable. at the same time enhancing or bush meat during the 1980s and To address the issue I strongly suggest conservation education about the remaining elephant tend to avoid the use of the local people, Elgon their importance. Forest tracks the park, living further south, where, Maasai. The residents of the area have a in the forest should also be well presumably, they are safer. There is deep rooted connection to the forest and maintained if we are to promote a similar scenario for the previously the land. It would be prudent to train the tourism potential of this area, numerous buffalo herds. locals to become rangers and custodians so their neglect is disappointing. I found very recent evidence of the park, rather than appoint staff Bush meat is a growing concern of poaching, particularly on the from other parts of Kenya who do not and our worry is that much effort is being given to poaching of Ivory and very little effort on this issue that threatens many more inside and outside our protected areas, and is growing to alarming proportions. We applaud previous conservation work by organisations such as IUCN in the area but there seems to have been no follow up of these efforts. We will pick up the issues that you raise with the Kenya Wildlife Service and other organisations working in the area, but it may take some time to get the results we want.

Michael Gachanja Executive Director A hut used by poachers inside Mt.Elgon forest.

12 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

The following exchange of letters took place between a visiting Dutch couple in Kenya, wildlife photographer Jonathan Scott and Lucy Karume of the Kenya Tourist Federation. We are publishing it in slightly edited form, for reasons of length and will keep SWARA readers appraised of any outcome - Editor

Dear Sir, Dear Riekje the Mara Triangle to the west of the This is a message from the Netherlands. Thank you very much for your kind Mara River, administered by the Mara We always watch your programs with comments. Conservancy. great pleasure. We are forwarding this to our friends With the Masai Mara National For many years we come to Africa. We in Narok County and the Tourism Reserve being of such great importance have visited many countries in Africa. Industry for their comment. to Kenya and the world as one of We love the nature and its people. Like Your email highlights one of our own our planet’s most important wildlife we say: we live in Europe, but our heart concerns - PARTICULAR WITH sanctuaries it is imperative that it is is in Africa. The last years we visited REGARD TO DISTURBANCE AT treated with the respect it so richly Kenya. This year especially to see the RIVER CROSSINGS - as outlined in deserves. If that happens it will continue crossing of the wildebeests. And we a recent article we wrote for the East to bear fruit for future generations really did see them cross! African Wild Life Society magazine to enjoy - and create revenue and But what we also experienced were SWARA due for publication in January employment on a sustainable basis. frequent flying helicopters with tourists 2015. to follow the crossing. Every half hour We are all hoping that the recent Kind regards they flew over. We think it is very Stakeholders Meeting on the Maasai Jonathan Scott worrying and disturbing them and Mara hosted in Nairobi by the Governor nature and should be stopped. of Narok County the Honorable Samson Jonathan We have no connections concerning Ole Tunai will bare fruit. I came away I am a board director of Kenya Civil wildlife conservation and thought you from that meeting with the belief that Aviation. I have not come across any might be able to pass this message or there was a real commitment on the helicopter application. I will take it up use your influence. part of both the Public and the Private with the Director General, and update Asante sana, kind regards, sector to address the urgent need for a accordingly. revised Management Plan for the Mara Riekje Keijzer and the implementation of professional Lucy Karume Ronald and Jannie Lanting management for the whole Reserve MBA, Chairperson, Kenya Tourism Federation, of the kind currently in operation in Chairperson, Tourism Recovery Task Force.

Dear Sir, and cat skin exports. In fact if these satisfy an enormous interest in seeing I refer to the two letters in the last two individuals had not been so efficient as animals worldwide in their natural SWARA issues by Dr. Mordecai Ogada hunters and shot off so much wildlife, habitats before they disappear or I on the subject of "The Next Generation there might be more around today . die, and secondly to find some worthy of Conservationists' Talk", and the Once hunting was banned and then wildlife charities to which I could mention of "lineages shared by the subsequently the live capture of wild bequeath my personal fortune. individuals covered in the article". animals to supply zoos and safari parks During these 26 years, I found three I think that Dr. Ogada is around the world was also banned, charities that were really doing sterling overcomplicating matters and these what was left, why the conservation work for conservation. The rest were lineages are merely in the majority of industry. A smart career move, and a money making operations for the cases, the new generations taking over very worthwhile way of sustaining the individuals or families involved, and the family business! privileged life style, that they had grown the product or profit centre was usually During my many visits to Kenya, I accustomed to. the conservation of some specific found it curious that the conservation In my retirement, I have worked species, with the added kudos of fame industry was run predominantly by for 26 years, all over the world as by association, very sad. I have not white expatriates or their children or a volunteer , on many different completely given up hope however, as grandchildren. It occurred to me that conservation projects and in certain my search continues. most of these families were originally instances have funded the projects, if involved in hunting activities and I considered them "genuine". I paid Yours faithfully in those days, it was they who were my own air fares, food and living costs. benefitting from the ivory, rhino tusk The reason for doing this was firstly to Peter Thomas

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 13 LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

Response to Peter Thomas CORPORATE MEMBERS letter on Mordecai’s opinion A: Abercrombie & Kent Ltd; Africa limited; Kilima camp L: Laikipia Wild Dear Peter, Safari Specialists; Africa Journeys Life Forum; Lloyd Masika Ltd; Lafarge There are three issues that Escapes; Africa Safari and Beach Eco Systems; Let’s Go Travel; Library Society would like to respond to Holidays Tz; Africrn Encounter of Congress; Luca safaris Ltd; M: from this letter. First, changes Travel Ltd; African Conservation Maliba Pharmacy Limited; Mahali Mzuri have taken place in the last 50 Centre; African Quest Safaris; African Management ltd; Makini School; Mara years in the way conservation has been handled. This can best be Safari Company; African Wild Life Landmark Ltd; Mara-Meru Cheetah reflected by the very real growth Foundation; African Wild Life Safari Project; Micato Safaris; Mombasa Air in community involvement in P/Ltd (Australia); Africa Viza Travel Safari Ltd; Mount Kenya Sundries; community conservancies and Services Ltd; A.K Taylor (USA); Africa Mpala Ranch; Mpala Research Centre; the emergence of NGOs such as Expeditions; Africa House Safaris; Asilia Mweka College of Africa Wild Life the Kenya Wildlife Conservancy Association which give a growing Lodges & Camps; Asilia Kenya Ltd; Ltd; Management (TZ); Muthaiga Country voice to the people of Kenya on Atua Enkop Africa Ltd B: Bartkus, Club; Mara Conservation Fund; N: wildlife conservation issues. John; Borana Ranch; Blix Inn Ltd (Purdy Nakumatt Holdings Ltd; Naibor Camps This change is embedded in the Arms); Bonfire Adventures; Bushtops Ltd; NEMA; O: Offbeat Safaris Ltd; recent Wildlife Conservation and Camp Collection; Bush and Beyond; Olonana; On Course Consultancy Management Act. Secondly, yes family interest in conservation C: Camp Kenya Ltd; Carbacid (C0) Ltd; Onsea House Tanzania Ltd; Ol has promoted lineages, but Ltd; Cheli & Peacock Management Ltd; Pejeta Conservancy; Origins Safaris; this has led to a continuation Classic Safaris Ltd; D: Daah Safaris; Osho Chemicals Industries; Oserian of wildlife landscapes that we Diwaka Tours & Travel Ltd; Dianai Development Company Ltd; P: Panda might not otherwise still have, Beachalets Ltd (2003) Ltd; Discover Development Company Limited; particularly as our wildlife areas are coming under increasing Kenya Safari; E: Eastern & Southern Pollman’s Tours & Safaris Ltd; Power threat from agricultural Safaris; Exclusive African Treasures; Technics Ltd; Private Safaris (EA) Ltd; encroachment, unplanned F: Fairview Hotel; Four Seasons R: Robin Hurt Safaris (K) Ltd; S: Satao settlements, land grabbing Safari Lodge Serengeti Tz; Friends of Camp; Safaris Unlimited (A) Ltd; Safari and bush meat poaching in the Mau Watershed (FOMAWA) G: Big 5 tz; Solio Ranch Ltd; Sopa Lodges particular. But it is also true that these lineages are becoming Gamewatchers Safaris; Peak East Africa Kenya; Sopa Lodges (TZ); Selective less dominant as many new Ltd; Great Plains Conservation Ltd; Safaris; Shimoni Aqua-Ventures Ltd; conservation faces are emerging. Global Equity & Development Group Southern Cross Safaris Ltd; Sosian Lastly we do need to be Pty Ltd; H: Harry P Ewell; Henning Lodge; Sirai Management Ltd; Swedish concerned about money making Jensen; Heritage Hotels; Hemingway’s School; Southern Sun Mayfair Nairobi; conservation organisations, particularly where a significant Collection; Highlands Mineral Water Strathmore Law sCHOOL; T:Tamimi percentage of the money raised Co Ltd; Highlight Travel Ltd; Hospitality Kenya; Tamarind Management; never reaches conservation Management Services; I: Ideal Tours TANAPA (TZ); Tanganyika Wilderness as noted by Peter, but we also and Travel; J: Jade Sea Journeys, James Camps Ltd; (TZ);The Safari & need to be concerned that NGO Finlay (Kenya) Ltd; Jascruisers ltd; Juja Conservation Comapny; The Star; Tawi funding is not squashed by Government legislation that Praparatory School; Jostein Nordstrom; Lodge; Twiga Car Hire & Tours Ltd; wants to restrict the NGO voice, K: Kenya Association of Tour U: Unilever Tea Kenya Ltd; V: Vintage because it speaks out against bad Operators; Kenya Wild Life Service Africa Ltd; W: Wetlands International; Government decision making Institute; Kenya Wild Life Service; Wilderness Lodges; Wild Life Safari linked to vested interests. Kenya Comfort Hotel/Hotel Suites; Kenya; Williamson Tea (K) Ltd; WWF Michael Gachanja, Ketas Safaris; Ker & Downey Safaris Eastern Africa; Wilderbeest Travels Ltd; Executive Director Ltd; Kensington Tours Ltd; Kibo Slopes X: Xcellent Wild Life Paradise – Safaris Ltd; Kicheche Mara Camp; KAPS Holiday & Safaris

14 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 Congratulations to the following 3rd quarter winners of our Membership recruitment campaign.

Angie & Jonathan Scott Phillip Coulson Kuki Gallman P. J. Hime Andy Hill

To redeem your prizes please contact Rose on: Tel: +254 20 3874145 / 3871253 Mobile: + 254 722 202 473 / 734 600 632 email: [email protected]

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 15 CHAIRMAN'S letter

t is now six years since I was and making greater impact. SWARA the capital city, Nairobi, to become a elected chairman of East Africa editions have been published on gentleman farmer elsewhere. It is in IWild Life Society. I took over timely basis and have reached more this background that I have proposed from a renowned surgeon and wildlife readers worldwide. Many members to the Council to find a replacement for campaigner, who had managed to have attested that the quality of this the position of chairman of the Society. steer the Society from a precarious publication has improved significantly I have advanced this proposal in good financial position into a financially this year. I wish to convey special time and I am confident that, at the vibrant organization. Let it be on compliments to the Editor and his staff Society Annual General Meeting on record that Imre Loefler carefully for their efforts. December 4th 2014, the Society elected managed his succession under difficult Our programmes and projects a new chairman to whom I now pass circumstances. The events that led to have registered steady growth and on the baton. The new chairman (Joe me being elected as chairman of the increased impact. The Kenya Forests Kibe) has served as Vice-chairman of Society went smoothly and I wish to Working Group has continued to play the Society and I have full confidence thank all members who were party to commendable roles in networking that the Society will prosper under his that decision. NGOs and civil society for information leadership. It has been a great honor During my time as chairman, I have sharing and mobilizing actions for me to serve as chairman and I wish tried to improve on Society’s functions against forest excisions. Let me take to thank members for the support over and above the standards set this opportunity to offer thanks to you have given to society activities during Imre Loefler’s chairmanship. the various donors to the Society’s in various ways. I wish to express In particular, I have ensured fiscal programmes and projects. special thanks to Council members and prudence and accountability in Society In the arena of public policy Headquarter staff who have worked operations. During my chairmanship, intervention, the Society has made hard to sustain society activities over the Society has moved out of high valuable contributions, particularly the period. budget deficits into financial stability as in the recent formulation of the new Finally, I wish to take this opportunity captured in successive audit reports. Wildlife Act in Kenya. Some members to commend the successive Executive The Imre Loefler talks convened have contributed articles in the print Directors (Ali Kaka, Nigel Hunter jointly with Karen Club and Muthaiga media to influence policy. I congratulate and Michael Gachanja) for excellent Club have been well attended and you on this score and encourage you to stewardship of Society activities over have given the Society good publicity. keep it up. my chairmanship. However, we have not succeeded in Good governance principles call for Please receive my best wishes for the reconvening the previous monthly talks. frequent and orderly change of guard year 2015. This remains an important issue for in organizations. I have also reached intervention by the new Council. the age retiring from active public Fredrick Owino SWARA remains the Society’s key engagements. For example, I have opted Chairman channel for reaching our stakeholders to gradually change my residence from

EAWLS would like to welcome the following Members:

Kenya Regular Nicholas Cahill Kenya - Family Australia - Regular Lebanon Heath Brand Mr & Mrs S Curtis Louise Wood James Allan Corporate Donor Barkatch Mukholi Cliff Mr & Mrs P N Crowder Mr and Mrs. Davey Luke Michel Claude Zoghzoghi Monica Azimi Kim Montgomery Mauritius - Regular Stephen Ruken Helen Gibbons USA - Regular Elizabeth Muir Finland Regular William h Quick Thomas George Liana Mirea Kristina Talsa Barbara Hughes Tara Manji John Harris UK – Regular Laurie Frydman Bianca Noarbartolo Di Sciara Annie Widger Mr & Mrs K Nosedale Australia Grace Mogere Joseph Vaughan Lori Northrup Mr P N Paul Corporate Regular Janine Milne Ramani R Venrat Alice Bares Andrew John Jenner Global Equity & Patrick Kivondo Gerald Kihara Muchiri Charles Chester Wayne Hammond Development Group Pty Louise Barnes Liz Mwambui Ron Magill Limited James Ogumbo Omitto Lucy Mureu Kenya - Corporate Regular Dr Derick Chibeu Raymond Cheruiyot Langat Sweden - Family Strathmore Law School Mary Ann Burris Ben Allen Pierre Dessemontet Panda Development Co. Ltd

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OrOr join join online. online. www.eaWild www.eawildlife.org Life.org SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 17 director's letter

East African developments pushing ahead without respect for the law

Assessment (EIA) is carried out, the protected areas are contiguous. Again EIA is approved regardless of quality no detailed biodiversity survey was and content. The stopping of the conducted to inform the EIA. construction of the 4-km road inside Another notable example that has by the National attracted a lot of attention is proposed Environment Tribunal last year is a oil exploration in the largest stretch of result of this practice. a protected coastal dry forest reserve This alarming disregard does not stop remaining in Eastern Africa, the with the Nairobi Park. Here are some Arabuko Sokoke Forest, by CAMAC other examples. Energy (K) Limited (See article on Pg A few months ago, a high voltage 51). Though an Environmental and line cutting across the in Social Impact Assessment (ESIA) Kenya’s Coast was started. The line cuts has been done, no proper structured mportant development projects through some of the most impressive consultation with stakeholders that have a direct impact on our sections of the small forest, which was done and a CAMAC letter to people, environment and natural could easily have been avoided by stakeholders acknowledges this. On I going around it. No assessment of the November 21, 2014, the company resources are being initiated without stakeholder participation and/or vegetation along the line was made, stopped its operations in the forest ignoring laid down legal procedures. missing the world's only stand of 4 citing stakeholders concern. No permit Today, protected areas in the East Euphorbia tanaensis and one of the last to access the forest had been given by African region seem to be no longer mature Cynometra lukei by accident. In the Kenya Forest Service (KFS) though protected in the sense that any new Kibwezi, the Mombasa - Nairobi power all plans to operate in the forest had development can be undertaken without line is passing in between the Chyulu been finalised. We and many other regard for the legal requirements Hills National Park and the Kibwezi organisations, notably members of of the Constitution and laws such Forest Reserve (one tightly connected the Kenya Forests Working Group as Environment Management and ecological unit) instead of going (KFWG) and Nature Kenya, have Coordination Act (EMCA). through the sisal plantations north of petitioned the government and will be In certain cases, where the EMCA is the Nairobi – Mombasa road. There following up this issue since stopping followed and an Environment Impact is of course no "in between" as both their operations in the reserve for now

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* This membership category applies to those below 30 years of age Completed forms with cheque payments to be made to: EAWLS, P.O.Box 20110, 00200, Nairobi, Kenya ** Family membership category includes children below 18 years IMPORTANT FOR OVERSEAS MEMBERS Rates include postage costs (by airmail to members outside East Completed forms with payments must for security reasons be sent c/o one of these Society Representatives: Africa|) for SWARA magazine. USA: EAWLS c/o Harry and Carol Ewel, 200 Lyell Avenue - Specerport NY 14559 - 1839 USA EUROPE: c/o Ken Richard; Fauna and Flora International (FFI); 4th Floor Jupiter House Station Rd Cambridge CB1 2JD UK THE NETHERLANDS: EAWLS c/o Johan Elzenga Stichting EAWLS Nederland Ridderhoflaan 372396 CJ Koudekerk a/d Rijn 18 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 Environment Management Authority Another notable example that has attracted a lot of (NEMA), the institution mandated to implement the Environment attention is proposed oil exploration in the largest Management and Coordination Act. stretch of a protected coastal dry forest reserve The public consultation process must remaining in Eastern Africa, the Arabuko Sokoke be transparent and consistent. The EIA licence needs to be done in two parts. Forest, by CAMAC Energy (K) Limited. The first licence can give the go ahead on the design process, but a second licence must be given based on the does not mean that the matter has ensure proper mitigation measures are final design, that explicitly provides died or gone away. Arabuko-Sokoke included in the design of development mitigation measures. is rich in the diversity of its , projects. Essentially the reform should The role of EMCA and the processes mammals, plants and butterflies. It have the developer put up the money required, which we believe strongly is considered second in Africa, after for the EIA, but should have no say in should be complied with, is not anti- the vast Congo forest, in importance selecting who does the EIA and no say development, but is there to ensure for the conservation of birds. It is this in influencing the recommendations. that development follows good uniqueness and high biodiversity value The register of EIA specialists environmental practice. There should that we seek to protect, not just because needs to only include independent be no exception to this and Government we are NGO conservationists but and qualified professionals, with Ministries should be setting the because these values are very important some independent vetting of the example. to local communities. register. The appraisal of the EIA Lastly, there is a need to strengthen should be done by a panel of experts Michael Gachanja EIA and licensing process in EMCA to including people outside the National Executive Director

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 19 EAWLS NEWS

it is today – with air so fresh and abundant wildlife” stated Liz Mwambui, a former employee of EAWLS under the Kenya Forests Working Group (KFWG). The last time she was in the forest, the story was quite different. Instead of a long leisurely walk, she had joined a team from KENVO and the then Forest Department, now Kenya Forest Service (KFS), to walk grids around the forest, off the beaten path, on a charcoal search and destroy mission. David Kuria, KENVO's team leader, remembers those days only too well. He informed the participants that it was difficult to stomach the wanton destruction of the forest. So together with KFS, members of the surrounding communities and KFWG, he championed the group rid the forest of illegal activities. Their effort bore fruit as was ode to the freedom fighters and the resident evident from the flourishing tree and sounds By Liz Mwambui & Richard Rono communities whose rich cultural history from the wild. protected the forest in the past. Kenya The participants had an experience of t is 2014 Kenya’s Independence Day Wildlife Service and Kenya Forest Service a life time as they were entertained with (Jamuhuri) on December 12th and personnel with KENVO guides lead the patriotic songs, storytelling, cultural dances, Imore than 300 people weave their way participants through Gatamaiyu Riverine and disco music around a bonfire. Traditional through the scenic Gatamaiyu forest in a forest. The forest, as the participants came food and drink provided by the local walk to create awareness for conservation to learn, provided cover and food to the communities kept everyone literally in high of Kenya’s forests. Crisp clean air meets freedom fighters during Kenya’s struggle spirit with renewed sense of commitment to birdsong and everyone is in a good mood. for independence from the British Colonial conserve this important piece of history for Participants try to keep down their voices so Government. The surrounding community posterity. as not to spook the herds of elephants easily has viewed the forest as sacred and has The event was generously supported by found in this forest. It was difficult to contain protected it over the years. The link between the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF), the enthusiasm especially when the group culture and conservation was the basis for Kenya Charity Sweepstake, Highlands Mineral reached a waterfall. the inauguration of “Pathway to Freedom”, Water, PEAK East Africa, the Kenya Wildlife The walk organized by East African to make it an annual conservation walk. Conservation Forum, the Kenya Wildlife Wild Life Society (EAWLS) and Kijabe As times changed so did the forest. “A Service and the Kenya Forest Service. Environment Volunteers (KENVO), was an decade ago, the forest was not as serene as

EAWLS Director, Michael Gachanja, centre, receiving the donation from Peter Njoroge of Kenya Charity Sweepstake (KCS) while Richard Rono looks on.

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By Jackson Bambo Kenya Forests Working Group (KFWG)

he South Nandi Forest Reserve is the main stand of remnant indigenous Tvegetation that once covered the North and South Nandi Forests, including Kakamega Forests, as one block. The indigenous forest which is 20,200 ha was gazetted as a Forest Reserve in 1936. The forest is home to White-spotted Flufftail (Sarothrura pulchra) and the endangered Turner’s Eremomela (Eremomela turneri), Colobus monkey, leopards as well as numerous species of antelopes, birds and other vertebrates. The Forest is an Important Bird Area. of 1,185 ha of closed canopy rainforest, supposedly diversion of water to the Nyanza Despite its importance as a Forest and including 10 million indigenous trees. The sugar belt will alter local microclimate, the constitutional requirement to increase dam will significantly drain the Yala Swamp, adversely affect farming, and lead to Kenya’s forest cover, the Government, a wetland of international importance, by biodiversity loss and habitat degradation. through The National Treasury, wishes to diverting 9% of water from the Yala’s river The proposed dam threatens wildlife, some construct a dam project that will comprise a to the adjacent Nyando river. In addition the of which are of global conservation concern. large-scale water reservoir for water supply, irrigation, river regulation, flood control and hydropower production. The 67 m high and 158m long dam is expected to have a capacity of 230 million m3, and to produce 50 The African Journal of Ecology - A resource for SWARA readers MW of hydropower giving energy production Among articles in the current issue are: John Wiley & Sons Inc 350 Main Street of 150 GWh/yr, 33km 132KV transmission • Floristic heterogeneity at Ngogo, Malden MA 02148 USA line, 7,251 ha irrigated land (phase 1:3,009 , Uganda and Tel: +1 781 388 8598 ha) water supply infrastructure to people possible implications for habitat use Tel (toll free): +1 800 835 6770 in surrounding towns, buildings, roads and by Email: [email protected] other infrastructure. • Locating elephant corridors The proposed dam will be located at the between Saadani National Park Europe, Middle East and Africa confluence of the Kimondi and Sirua river and the Wami-Mbiki Wildlife Journals Customer Services tributaries which creates the Yala River, Management Area, Tanzani John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. The Atrium one of the six rivers within the Lake Basin • The predicament of the African Southern Gate Chichester Region. The Kimondi tributary originates wild dog, Lycaon pictus, is less PO19 8QG, United Kingdom from the Kingwal swamp north of Kabsabet precarious than claimed Feeding Phone: 44 (0)1865 778315 while Sirua tributary is from the Nandi Hills. ecology of the Ethiopian wolf in the E-mail: [email protected] The Yala River flows for a distance of 212 km Simien Mountains National Park, before draining into through Ethiopia Asia Pacific Yala Swamp. It has a gross catchment of Journal Customer Services 3262 km2 with an average annual flow of AJE is published in association with John Wiley & Sons Singapore Pte. Ltd. 30m2/sec. EAWLS. For further details go to: 1 Fusionopolis Walk If a recent Call for Expression of Interest http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/ #07-01 Solaris South Tower by the National Treasury for the provision journal/10.1111/(ISSN)1365-2028 Singapore 138 628 of Transaction Advisory Services for the Phone: +65 6511 8000 development of this dam is ignored, and If Or contact: Japanese: +65 6511 8010 nothing is done to stop the proposed Nandi North, Central, and South America Email: [email protected] Forest Multipurpose Dam Development Journal Customer Services inside the forest, it will lead to the clearing

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 21 NEWS ROUNDUP

Second wild to inspire film Richard award announced Nat Geo WILD, in partnership with the Sun Bonham Valley Film Festival and the African Wildlife From Guide to Foundation (AWF), announced the second Guardian-honoured annual WILD TO INSPIRE filmmaking by Prince William competition. The competition will give one winner the oportunity to travel to Africa and document wildlife for Nat Geo WILD viewers. The winner will share their adventure through a variety of media, including video diaries, photos, social media and more, as part of an online companion to Nat Geo WILD’s signature Sunday night nature series,Destination Wild.

Richard Bonham received the Prince up the Big Life Foundation to addresses This year's winner, Dan Duran, is preparing William award for Conservation. He told the challenge of enabling people and to travel to northern Tanzania, where he the star-studded London ceremony how a livestock to live alongside wildlife through will spend a month documenting the wildlife visit to China had helped him understand the development of a model based on jobs and people of the Manyara-Tarangire the cycle of greed that provided people with and economic incentive schemes. Today, ecosystem. Duran will also film wildlife an “whimsical bracelets behind glass display Big Life employs over 250 local people as AWF conservation projects at Manyara cases” and said it was time for governments community game scouts, conservation Ranch, part of a critical wildlife corridor that permitted such trade to be held administrators, water bailiffs, and between Tanzania's Lake Manyara and accountable. schoolteachers. In 2003, in order to prevent Tarangire National Park. the virtually certain local extinction of Once a safari guide, Bonham's came to and other great predators, Big Life founded realize that a successful conservation the Predator Compensation Fund, which has strategy in the 21st century must be based proven so successful that it has since been Kenya marks heroes on economics, particularly when human- expanded to cover one million acres of the day for fallen rangers wildlife conflict diminishes prospects for Amboseli-Tsavo ecosystem. families’ prosperity and welfare. He set Kenya Wildlife Service( KWS) held its sixth annual Conservation Heroes’ Day at its headquarters in Nairobi. KWS holds the event every year Kenya’s Lewa Wildlife including the quality and management of in honour of its employees who Conservancy and Ol Pejeta one the natural resources.The IUCN Green have lost their lives in the course of of the only two properties in List will define success for protected active duty. The Chief Guest at this Africa to feature on the First areas,” says Julia Marton-Lefèvre, IUCN year’s event was Chief Justice and Green List of honour by the Director General. “It is about recognizing President of the Supreme Court of International Union for the those sites that successfully respond to Kenya, Dr. Willy Mutunga. Conservation of Nature (IUCN) the challenges of the 21st century and contribute to the wellbeing of people and The annual event provides a special On November 14, IUCN announced nature.” occasion to reflect on the lives of those who displayed courage and its first Green List of Protected Areas (Lewa, Ol Pejeta press releases) in Sydney, Australia. The Green List is self-sacrifice in the face of danger described as "a new and progressive Karisia Walking Safaris was also among and adversity and to celebrate the initiative that encourages and celebrates the laurels at the annual Safari awards. continued commitment by their the success of protected areas that reach For a second year in a row it received remaining colleagues. Most of these excellent standards of management." the 'Best Walking Safari in Kenya' and heroes died in combat with armed This list will generally establish the first two new and unexpected prizes - third bandits, preventing wildlife crimes, global standard for protected natural place in the principal award, 'Best Safari on rescue missions and protecting and conservation sites.The sites were Experience in Africa' and third place in people’s lives and property from evaluated against a set of criteria 'Best Guiding Team in Kenya'. damage by wild animals.

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African Wildlife Foundation “In the 1980s, Africa went from having diplomats and criminal syndicates working CEO speaks out at Tanzania 1.3 million elephants to 600,000. Will the together to ferry illegal ivory from Tanzania to population have to be halved again for us China via diplomatic bags and planes. Summit on Wildlife Crime to have the political will to prosecute these crimes?” Bergin added: “Governments and stakeholders have held many big meetings, Luanda – the largest illegal and there has been plenty of agreement ivory market in Southern Africa on the need to halt this horrific trade, but Research by Esmond Martin and cases are still not being prosecuted enough Lucy Vigne shows that the Angolan in Africa, the United States, Europe or capital, Luanda, has the largest Asia. When people start receiving punitive illegal retail ivory market in southern sentences and going to jail, the traffickers Africa. In early 2014 they counted will realize the weather has shifted.” 10,888 recently carved ivory items At a regional summit focused on combating without proper documentation – and wildlife crime, African Wildlife Foundation The first day of the summit kicked off thus illegal. Tusks can be obtained (AWF) CEO Patrick Bergin called for the under a dark cloud after a London-based wholesale in Luanda for $150-250 political will to prosecute wildlife crime at NGO released a report accusing Tanzanian per kg. More than 90% of the worked all levels of society, from the poacher to the and Chinese officials at nearly every level ivory on display was in Mercardo corrupt government official. “Many good of government of colluding in the illegal de Atesanato in Benefica on the things are being done to fight the illegal ivory trade and directly contributing to the southern outskirts of Luanda. Vendors wildlife trade, but the sun still shines on the decimation of Tanzania’s elephants. In the were from the Democratic Republic traffickers. Virtually no one anywhere is report, “Vanishing Point: Criminality, Corruption of Congo, Congo and Angola and being indicted, prosecuted, convicted and and the Devastation of Tanzania’s Elephants,” buyers were nearly all Chinese. sentenced,” said Bergin at the two-day the Environmental Invesitgation Agency (Pachyderm magazine) summit. cites instances of Tanzanian officials, Chinese

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 23 NEWS ROUND-UP

and rhino poaching crisis. The ivory-free website and program are part of a larger Don’t buy ivory. ever! ivory demand reduction campaign involving WildAid, AWF and Save the Elephants, A NEW CAMPAIGN CALLS ON CONSUMERS featuring celebrities in public service announcements aired throughout China and WildAid, African Wildlife Foundation (AWF), up and pay attention to what is happening other countries. Save the Elephants and Animal Planet are to Africa’s elephants; the more people who calling on the public to do its part to end the champion this cause and demand action “We all share this planet with each other ivory poaching crisis by taking the Ivory Free from their governments on this crisis, the and with these majestic animals. We all pledge at ivoryfree.org. The new campaign harder it will be to ignore the uproar.” have a responsibility to do something to asks consumers to pledge to never buy, The Ivory Free partnership has been save Africa’s elephants. We all have to do own or accept ivory as gifts, and to support launched in conjunction with the premiere our part. I’m doing mine, and you can do stronger government bans and actions to of “Saving Africa’s Giants with Yao Ming”- yours by going to ivoryfree.org and taking tackle the illegal ivory trade. a new program that follows WildAid the pledge,” says WildAid Ambassador Yao Says African Wildlife Foundation CEO ambassador and former NBA star Yao Ming Ming. (AWF) Patrick Bergin: “It’s about building a critical on a journey to Africa to see its natural mass of support. The more people who sit beauty and witness the devastating elephant Nine global NGOs call for WildAid Ambassador and ban on mining in World former NBA star Yao Ming Heritage sites The Zoological Society of London (ZSL) joined forces with eight other world-leading conservation organisations (African Wildlife Foundation, Fauna & Flora International, Frankfurt Zoological Society, Royal Society for the Protection of Birds, The Nature Conservancy, The WILD Foundation, Wildlife Conservation Society and World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) to call for urgent action to protect natural and mixed UNESCO World Heritage sites from industrial mining, oil and gas activities. The joint ‘no-go’ and ‘no-impact’ statement was presented at the IUCN World Parks Congres in Tour operators across Africa are reporting rest of the continent, whose airlines have in Sydney, Australia. the biggest drop in business in living any case largely suspended flights.Moreover memory. A specialist travel agency, Ebola is hardly the biggest killer disease in Despite international recognition as SafariBookings.com, says a survey of 500 Africa (AIDS and malaria are bigger). Yet, in flagship protected areas, the growing operators in September showed a fall in the mind of many visitors, all of Africa is a demand for natural resources has bookings of between 20% and 70%. Since single country. meant that around a quarter of natural then the trend has accelerated, especially World Heritage sites are now under in Botswana, Kenya, South Africa and One despairing tour operator calls it an threat from commercial mining. (See Tanzania. Several American and European “epidemic of ignorance”.Directly and Conservation section, Arabuko-Sokoke agents have stopped offering African indirectly, tourism accounts for almost 10% forest story on pg 51) The resulting tours for the time being. The reason is the of sub-Saharan Africa’s GDP and pays the environmental impacts may not outbreak of the Ebola virus in west Africa, salaries of millions of people. The industry only lead to loss of status as a World which has killed more than 5,000 people. is worth about $170 billion a year. In 2013 Heritage Site but, more importantly, The epidemic is taking place far from the big more than 36m people visited Africa, a potentially irreversible habitat and safari destinations in eastern and southern figure that had been growing by 6% per species loss that will have wide- Africa as far or farther than the homes of year. Now many safari lodges are closer to ranging repercussions for generations many European tourists. There are more air extinction than the animals that surround to come. links from west Africa to Europe than to the them.

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AT LEAST 30% of the world's oceans should Russia, Madagascar and South Africa were be protected as marine parks where fishing cheered as they pledged vast new areas and mining are banned, according to a new for marine conservation. Several countries target set at the close of the International promised to establish new land reserves Union for the Conservation of Nature's and extend or consolidate existing protected (IUCN) World Parks Congress in Sydney. areas. China committed to increasing its The sharply increased target was drawn up "protected area territory" by at least 20 by conservationists and is based on more per cent, while the province of Quebec in than 80 scientific studies. Currently just two Canada announced it would protect 600,000 per cent of the world's ocean environment is square kilometres of land to increase marine protected areas by 28 per cent. protected. biodiversity. The President of Madagascar, Hery Rajaonarimampianina promised to triple the During the closing session, representatives Among ocean conservation gains marine reserves in his country. of several countries, including Brazil, Gabon, was a pledge by Russia to increase its

Hundreds of key sites for nature threatened with destruction More than 350 of the planet’s most important sites for nature are threatened with being lost for ever according to a new report by BirdLife International.

Important Bird and Biodiversity Areas (IBAs) are places of international significance for the conservation of the world’s birds and other nature, with over 12,000 identified worldwide. IBAs are the largest and most comprehensive global network of important sites for nature conservation. Now, 356 of these – known as ‘IBAs in Danger’ – have been identified in 122 countries and territories as being in imminent danger of being lost. About half of these are legally protected, which highlights the importance of improving the management effectiveness of protected areas.

“‘IBAs in Danger’ provides an essential focus for governments, development agencies, the international environmental and conservation conventions, business and wider civil society to act to prevent the further damage or loss of these sites of international significance”, said Melanie Heath, BirdLife’s Director of Science, Policy and Information. “Collectively we must work together to mitigate these threats, strengthen the implementation of national and local laws and policies ensuring environmental safeguards are implemented at the earliest stages of development, as well as enhancing the management of these sites”. (BirdLife International)

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Jonathan and Angela Scott are multi award-winning wildlife photographers and longtime residents of Kenya. They are the only couple to have won, individually, the Wildlife Photographer of the Year Award. They write, illustrate, teach and are TV presenters, most famously known for the ‘Big Cat Diary’ series for BBC television. They have also written numerous bestselling books including Jonathan’s ‘The Marsh Lions’ (1982) and their co-authored, Safari Guides to East Africa. Their book, ‘Stars of Big Cat Diary’, was published in 2008.

The Marsh Pride which we have followed since 1977.

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hen I first came to live it closer to 7000 beds when seasonal longer argue that we are a ‘young’ in the Maasai Mara in and lesser known camps are included) Reserve lacking in capacity. Wearly 1977, I already creating a nightmare for the authorities. Angie and I are wildlife knew what an extraordinary How do you manage so many vehicles photographers, passionate about place it was. In the language of crisscrossing every inch of the Reserve the worlds rapidly shrinking the Maasai pastoralists who have while protecting the environment and wilderness areas and their wild roamed this area for the past its animal inhabitants? inhabitants. When I read recently two hundred years, Mara means These are not the words of an old- that around 14% of the land spotted – the spotted land speckled timer ruing change. They are the surface globally has some form of with thorn bush and wild animals same concerns currently debated protection, it seemed to offer hope for as far as the eye can see. by the Kenya tourism industry and that our battered environment That is how it looked to me long Narok County administrators – the might find a degree of respite. before fire and elephants and the same concerns voiced long ago This is part illusion. Boundaries passage of safari vehicles created by conservationists locally and drawn on a map defining the a more open environment. Today internationally. That was very clear extent of our national parks, game it is harder for browsers such as when I attended the Maasai Mara sanctuaries and forest reserves giraffes and Black rhinos to find Stakeholder’s Meeting in Nairobi in were primarily demarcated and suitable bushes to nourish them September. The meeting was organized gazetted many years ago. Since and harder for the big cats to hide and chaired by the Governor of then human encroachment into their cubs with less thickets and Narok County, the Honorable Samuel wilderness has become increasingly dense vegetation. But it is not just Ole Tunai. I wondered if it would visible whether through settlement, the physical environment that has be a question of ‘seen and heard it the illegal extraction of timber, changed. Forty years ago there all before’? But on this occasion I cutting of grass for thatching, was only a handful of lodges and came away feeling that change for mining for minerals, quarrying tented camps within the Reserve – the better was possible. I say on this for stone or sand, encroachment such as the Keekorok and Serena occasion because in 1977 I was asked by livestock or killing of wildlife Lodges and Governors Camp to contribute to a Management Plan for profit or sustenance. So - with virtually none beyond its for the Reserve, just one of a number we shouldn’t take that 14% as boundaries. Now there are well of plans commissioned at considerable sacrosanct. In fact according in excess of a hundred camps and expense in the interim with very little to a recent report published lodges servicing the area with some progress visible on the ground to show by the World Wide Fund for 5,000 beds (some estimates put for the recommendations. We can no Nature, populations of mammals,

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Everything changed for the Mara when Tanzania closed its border with Kenya in 1977. Suddenly the Reserve became far more than an overnight stop for safari enthusiasts to East Africa who had already glimpsed the wonders of the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania. Now Kenya was forced to rely on its own natural treasures to lure visitors to the country and the Mara became the jewel in the crown of the tourism industry with visitor numbers soaring from tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands annually. Meanwhile the wildebeest population had already exploded, released from the annual scourge of rinderpest or cattle plague, as it is also known. Rinderpest is a viral disease introduced birds, reptiles, amphibians and products to slow deforestation and by to the wild herds by cattle that finally have declined around the world on embracing public transport. disappeared in the wake of a veterinary average by 52% since 1970, while We do much of our photography from campaign to vaccinate livestock around freshwater populations have fallen our base at Governor’s Camp in the the Mara-Serengeti in the late 1950s. by more than three quarters. Habitat Mara, where wild animals of all shapes The population climbed from 200,000 loss, deforestation, climate change, and sizes are found in abundance. In the animals to 700,000 in the next 10 years overfishing and hunting are at the 1970s driving off-road was permitted before stabilizing at around 1.3 million heart of these declines. We are told we – in fact it was often a necessity given in the 1980s. This ‘great migration’ can slow the process by purchasing the black cotton soils and shortage of as it is known currently numbers 1.5 sustainable products, reducing our all-weather tracks. During the rainy million wildebeest, 200,000 zebras consumption of meat and dairy season large parts of the reserve would and hundreds of thousands of gazelles, disappear under a carpet of long red oat never tarrying too long in their endless grass obliterating many of the tracks search for grass and water. In contrast and forcing vehicles to carve out new to the unplanned human development ones. It wasn’t pretty but there were far fewer vehicles in those days.

Top: The Authors and Below: Honey's Boys a coalition of three cheetah brothers.

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that quickly spread like a rash through make the lease of Maasai-owned land to the Mara region, the beauty of nature is tourism stakeholders a financially viable that it has built-in checks and balances. alternative to pastoralism or agriculture. Caught up in the eternal struggle for And to the west of the Mara River is survival, predator and prey populations the area of the Reserve known as the help to nourish the environment they Mara Triangle that is run by a private depend on rather than depleting it. The management company called the Mara blue print of life is beautifully depicted Conservancy. In 2001 the Conservancy in the ebb and flow of species across began implementing a professional, this extraordinary land, the wisdom well thought-out plan as to how to of nature so clearly pointing us in the balance the needs of the environment right direction. It is telling us that we with the demands of the tourism need checks and balances – a workable industry and those of the local Maasai Master Plan properly implemented if community living around the Reserve. the Mara is to prosper. The Conservancy has been a beacon of For those quick to write off the Mara hope investing in road maintenance as beyond salvation, I would caution and track distribution, anti-poaching in that all is not lost. The creation of conjunction with our neighbours in the Wildlife Conservancies bordering the Serengeti, plus control of tour vehicles Reserve offers visitors a less ‘crowded’ and visitors to ensure that sensitive wildlife experience while helping to species such as big cats are not unduly disturbed, particularly when breeding of livestock, human life and damage to and hunting. Crucially the Conservancy crops. The hope is that Narok County Top Right: Masai warriors traditionally has helped to promote greater will follow the Triangle's example and killed male lions as a sign of bravery. This accountability in revenue collection and see fit to employ a credible management practice is now discouraged. allocated more money to enable the company to run the day-to-day affairs Below: Cattle graze illegally in the reserve Triangle to be run properly. Some of the on the east side of the Mara River, and on a daily basis - often at night - increases money passes to the local Maasai, who in so doing create a new sense of order. conflict with predators and should not be share the surrounding dispersal area Which brings me back to our role as permitted. with the wild animals and who bear the photographers. Visitors to the Mara costs of living with wildlife through loss are eager to document every moment

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 29 of their experience on their mobile the wildlife. But that is only possible to acknowledge our part in this and phone or with a traditional camera. As if stringent rules and regulations are endeavor to bring about change. Driver one pundit commented ‘if you didn’t imposed and enforced. Otherwise the training is imperative. Knowledgeable record the event it was as if you were urge to get the shot can diminish the licensed guides versed in all elements never there.’ Capturing a record of one’s moment rather than celebrating it. of their trade must become the bedrock life’s journey seems to be a pleasingly I was inspired and heartened recently of our industry and a requirement for innocuous pursuit, yet it can distort the to speak to one of the Maasai driver- anyone driving visitors in the Mara. way we see and nurture our world. With guides at Governor’s Camp to hear him It is essential that camps and lodges a camera pressed to your face or phone talk of how things in the Mara had to play their part too by briefing all their stretched out in front of you we stop change. He told me he was sickened guests on etiquette before they go on a really ‘seeing’. Instead we see with the by some of the behavior he witnessed game drive. Currently the pressure on eye of the camera the drivers and rather than guides to get their experiencing the vehicles in to the real moment with In the Triangle you depart with the feeling best position is all our senses. that the wardens are in charge rather than enormous. They The benefit of the tourism industry. are forced to recording what compete at times we see is that we with an unruly can enjoy looking scrum of safari at our images again and again – share around predators and down at the wagons, engines revving and clouds of them with the world on Facebook, river crossings when vehicles can gray diesel fumes fogging the air as they Google Plus and Instagram - a constant number in excess of 100. Lions and close in on a sighting. reminder of a fragment of what we leopards often lie in ambush among We all know when an animal is saw. The majority of the hundreds of the thickets while giant crocodiles pilot looking anxious or disturbed – when thousands of visitors thronging the the length of the river as they sense the lion or cheetah is hunting or trying Reserve are hoping to get up close to the the arrival of the herds. The wildebeest to move her cubs (sometimes as a direct animals – particularly the big cats – so and zebras are forced to wander back consequence of the relentless pressure they can capture the picture trophy of and forth as they try to negotiate one of vehicles). This is the time to back off what they saw. There is nothing wrong of the most dangerous moments of – not drive closer – and act with dignity with this in essence so long as the their lives and deal with the stress in the presence of these great creatures; emphasis in on not unduly disturbing of dozens of vehicles. All of us need to give them the space and respect

Poaching of Elephants in the Mara has increased in recent years. Due to illegal grazing of cattle on the east side of the river the largest herds are often to be found in the Mara Triangle.

30 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 they need – even if it means forgoing the shot that we so want to capture. Remote cameras and drones may have their place in the photographer’s kit bag used discreetly, but somewhere as heavily visited, as the Mara is not the ideal venue – certainly not unregulated. In the wrong hands they are incredibly intrusive and disturbing to wildlife. In the Triangle a single patrol vehicle is able to manage a large game viewing area once all the drivers and guides become aware of its possible presence. Word soon gets round if there is a real sense of commitment on the part of wardens and rangers to enforce the rules. ‘When the policeman is in town don’t go through the red light’ is the message. But to do this you need good Drop in water levels in the Mara river are of great concern. Deforestation in the Mau Forest infrastructure and well maintained is the primary reason for this. roads and tracks. This is apparent when you visit the Triangle. Here you can venture off road to enjoy a significant get used to a new way of being. In the the Reserve in their hands. We have a sighting – a pride of lions, a cheetah Triangle you depart with the feeling that choice between celebrating the Mara as or rhino for instance - but only five the wardens are in charge rather than an irreplaceable fragment of wilderness vehicles may congregate at any one time the tourism industry. or diminishing it to little more than a and each vehicle is tasked to move on The time is ripe for us to turn a glorified theme park where greed takes after 10 minutes so as not to overburden significant corner in the history of the precedence over the wellbeing of its the animals and to allow others to enjoy ‘spotted land’. For this to happen all of wild inhabitants. If our leaders and the the spectacle. On leaving, each vehicle is us must be prepared to make sacrifices, tourism industry are true to their word meant to return to the main track by the from the visitors and photographers then it will be the former - and we will same path it entered and continue on its to the local Maasai community and salute them. way. It is surprising how quickly people their leaders who hold the future of

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Colin Church served as Chairman of the Rhino Ark Management Committee from November 2000 to July 2012. In this time he completed the electrified fence that now surrounds the entire Aberdare mountain range then launched for Rhino Ark the current major fence construction projects for the Mt Kenya and Mau Eburru. He has had many years of involvement in conservation in East Africa including serving as honorary Chairman of the KWS Board of Trustees in 2003 and 2004.

Elephants in Mara North Conservancy

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t is an historical warp that the wildlife revenues has been a blot upon realistic stock policies is not a myopic Mara ecosystem - Kenya’s greatest the nation’s reputation. wish. It is good for business and spreads Iwildlife experience - has had such There have been many efforts to benefits so that all family incomes grow scant attention to ensure its future as a address these issues with little success. equitably. Into the melee of blatant prime asset to its communities and to The blame game has been prolific. exploitation of the region’s assets, an the nation. Some leaders have stubbornly turned embryonic gathering of conservationists The rolling plains and wooded a blind eye to the need to ensure – from within the Maasai Community, riverines of this wildlife paradise hold equitable and transparent revenue Kenyan society and internationally more than one of nature’s greatest share of tourism access fees and to show – is demonstrating that joined up ‘wonders’. leadership to drive through 21st Century participation has a chance to work. Maasai communities surround its livestock practices. Both are pivotal to a The Mara Elephant Project (MEP) core protected reserves and it is they complex jigsaw ‘fix’. was begun in 2011 – just one year who have the opportunity to secure Perhaps there is a glimmer of reality after Kenyans voted for a ‘devolution long-term income benefits – but now beginning to peek through. Good of power’ Constitution. This people’s only if dynamic livestock and wildlife conservation practice for wildlife and referendum places the onus of regional management practices are followed. For more than 50 years since the Masai Mara Game Reserve and the former Mara Triangle portion were It is developing creative ways to show that gazetted as state protection zones, but conservation practices can provide a fair with local authority management, the shilling earned for all. plunder of its seemingly boundless

Wildlife has flourished off this land longer than we humans have. We people of the Mara region are the guardians of one of the worlds’ greatest spectacles of nature. We should never forget that wildlife has flourished off this land longer than we humans have. It is our duty, and our good fortune, to ensure that the greater Mara Ecosystem remains our most valued asset for everyone who lives on the lands bordering the two national reserves already under our stewardship.

The Mara Elephant Project (MEP) is a joint process between conservationists and the Masai Community to build sound management processes that will deliver long lasting income benefits from both livestock and wildlife.

Statement by Samuel K. Tunai, Governor Narok County

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Map of Narok County areas in brown/red/mauve where, with funding, similar security and community outreach is planned. Each is described in red as "poaching hotspot" .

Game Reserves Core Conservancy areas under MEP MEP raid response units

revenue management firmly in the ‘Triangle’ sector when introduced the hands of county governments. by the former Trans Mara County Though still embryonic, MEP is Council. The founders of MEP saw the fusing Mara communities and escalating human/wildlife conflict in the conservationists in an initiative newly formed conservancies bordering that is achieving some impressive the two game reserves – Mara and results. It is directly engaging with Triangle - as an opportunity to involve communities to tackle poaching. It the communities in tackling human/ is developing creative ways to show elephant conflict. that conservation practices can Whilst elephants (and rhino) are provide a fair shilling earned for all. today’s most threatened wildlife A Dealer (Mr. Daniel Karanja Muchiri) arrested MEP’s emergence on the scene assets due to unprecedented levels of in Narok town on the 30th of July 2014 and charged with illegal possession of 9 pieces was triggered after 13 years of poaching, MEP’s actions are targeted of ivory weighing 84 kilograms (OB Number the well-recorded impact that at all human/wildlife conflict – lion 92/30/7/14) . privatised management secured for and cheetah killing and the hideous

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Elephant poacher arrests and deaths 2010- 2014 recorded in MEP reports.

Handing over elephant collar to partner KWS in Siapei during the translocation of elephants on September 1st 2012.

bush meat slaughter being amongst the They are equipped, uniformed and MEP’s third sector is a newly formed most high profile. Wildlife is a benefit under disciplined leadership. They intelligence unit that provides up to but also a curse for those with cattle patrol the core areas in Transmara the minute information, is adept at and crops if ways are not developed to (west), Lemek (central) and Ol Donyo infiltration and with a well proven protect and compensate for damage Erinka (east) bordering the Game record of leads to assist in poacher and or loss. MEP’s goal is to “protect and Reserves. The Quick Response Unit is bush meat arrests. restore the African elephant population centrally based at the newly acquired What of the impact on poaching and in the Mara/Serengeti ecosystem, centre near Aitong in the Lemek human elephant conflict? while positively impacting the human- Conservancy. This crack ranger unit elephant relationship”. monitors elephant data. It responds The graph above tells the story. MEP now has four patrol teams, with fast to animal injury, human-elephant many recruited from the Mara region, conflict and elephant killing reports. Two years after start up, MEP all fully trained in tracking and with MEP works closely with KWS on partnered with Save the Elephants endemic understanding of the terrain all intelligence and poacher search (STE) embarking on an elephant and habits of elephant and all wildlife. operations. Each bolsters the other. tracking operation with 14 collared

51 Degrees, a professional security company trains MEP rangers.

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Left: Elephant carcass, cause of death was stepping into a charcoal kiln. Below: Marc Goss MEP Programme Director (third from right centre and Dr Iain Douglas Hamilton (fourth centre) of Save the El- ephants collaring an elephant in the Masai Mara Game Reserve.

cultivated smallholdings is of great significance. Modern realities mean that sections of the Mara ecosystem will inevitably require methods of quick response to drive elephants and ungulates out of crop fields as well. MEP’s long-term commitment is to use all means available to reduce and in some areas eliminate, human/wildlife by the end of last year. The STE monitoring devices. All this provides conflict. With a funding mechanism in technical input gives hard evidence hard information but the most place, it is MEP’s policy to consider both of movements into conflict zones and important MEP asset is its ranger patrol fencing and the other techniques in hot enables the Rapid Response teams and intelligence units in constant action spot areas to keep elephants away from to take immediate action. Further on the ground. shambas (plots or gardens) mechanisms being planned are for MEP’s ability to move swiftly where MEP was pioneered by entrepreneur fixed wing, helicopter and unmanned there are hard boundaries along Richard Roberts – and with strong

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financial backing from the US conservation trust – Escape – whose driving force is Susan Fehsenfeld – a frequent visitor to Kenya and committed global wildlife conservationist. With a year one start up budget of $100,000, the immediate impact of the MEP ranger force has encouraged a four-fold increase in the budget to expand operations from the core zones outward. As communities see the results, more are requesting MEP support in their areas. And more funds will be required. In addition to Escape’s substantial underwriting of the operation, it is the MEP Board’s policy to broaden fund sources – not only from global conservation groups but also from

Top Right: MEP teams treating elephant from spear wounds in Ol within Kenyan society. Amongst those revenue sharing to all who are part of Donyo Erinka area. who have added to the usd 400,000 the conservancy outreach in the greater budget by 2013 are Northstar, Care Mara Region. Every family has to Below: MEP Rangers in training. for the Wild Kenya, Eden Trust, Ree benefit. This is not a top down process. Wildlife Park. Local participants include MEP actions illustrate that there is a the and Cricket on local opportunity. The big challenge the Wild. is for the conservancies to commit to MEP’s chairman Brian Heath says: grazing protocols, consider livestock “Good conservation policies must create upgrade and number reductions so that

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the land is managed to capacity and not to over-capacity.” Board member Richard Roberts explained: “ It makes good business practice to ensure all benefit from the policies. This is not a practice that works only for the elite.” The ‘all can benefit process’ is well illustrated in the Boma Fortification Project (BFP) where MEP has become involved to support the pioneering work of the Anne Kent Taylor Fund and Eden Trust. Predator protection is good business practice. Over 325 bomas are now secured. In the Mara North Conservancy where MEP has a presence, experiments include a trial herd of cattle – each supplied from individual conservancy families that is illustrating a quicker fattening and higher sale value using the ratio of 1 grazing unit (300kg animal) Top: Elephants attacked by angry farmers to 2 acres. Current unit averages are 3 benefit from the protection umbrella. after a crop raid crossing the Mara River. It times that, imposing undue pressure on Crop off take is more secure and full was treated by MEP support partners David the land. Factor in income earned from per acre crop value achieved. Better Sheldrick Widlife Trust. wildlife viewing access fees and property livestock security now twinned with Below: Boma Fortification Project provides land rents with fewer cattle at a higher livestock/wildlife grazing protocols and predator proof enclosures to over 300 unit value - that is a good business access/rental fees are together showing bomas in MEP areas. prospect for the landowner. real income value to the individual owner.” What of MEP’s strategy for “The tourist industry is a major the future? potential partner. Their enthusiasm for wildlife and in community involvement Marc Goss Programme Director MEP’s umbrella operations is not in so that their operations are secured long explains: “MEP is a grassroots initiative doubt. Now we need the industry – even term,” Goss adds. with international outreach. MEP in this awful downturn time - to share “We know many have their own demonstrates that there is a direct the investment in the sustainability of special lodge-linked initiatives but budget support for MEP community efforts to stop elephant and predator killing and to the wanton bush snaring that targets mainly ungulates, is a good investment”. Richard Roberts says: “Add contributions to protection of wildlife and reduction of human/elephant conflict by individual lodges and camps and a stronger basis exists for negotiating realistic access fees and land rental charges. The Mara now needs all to commit to a long-term investment. Gone are the days of quick bucks and quick returns for the politically advantaged”. MEP is in for the long term. The time has come when a deep investment in the precious assets of the unique ecosystem is good business for all.

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Elena Chelysheva has spent three decades studying cheetah, especially in the Maasai Mara, where they are a must-have in the tourists’ photo album. In this article she shares some of her expert knowledge and, like Jonathan Scott and Jake Grieves-Cook in this section, appeals for more understanding from their viewers.

t the start of the 20th century, trained for hunting and also hunted. there were more than 100,000 The more research that we do, the less, Acheetahs (Acinonyx jubatus) it appears, we know. Here are some roaming vast areas in Asia and Africa. key facts to bear in mind next time you By the end of the century, the global come across them. population was estimated as 15,000 animals, while today approximately • Year by year cheetah numbers Elena Chelysheva 7,500 cheetahs are left in the wild. decline drastically primarily due is manager and principal This article looks at some of the to increasing habitat loss and investigator of the Mara-Meru Cheetah Project. Member of reasons for such a dramatic decline of a fragmentation, the reduction of IUCN Breeding Conservation species that has co-existed with humans prey density and killings due to Specialist Group, she obtained her PhD in cheetah Ecology and for 4,500 years. They were kept as pets, conflict with livestock and hunting behaviour and has spent three for live trade and skins. decades studying cheetah in captivity and in the wild, • In Kenya, cheetah are now resident especially in the Maasai Mara, where they are a must-have in the tourists’ photo album. in about 23% of their historical range, mostly in unprotected areas. However, even in protected areas, chances of survival are

Mothers stay with cub females longer than with cub males. Reationship between family members is very tender, but when young male reaches the age of 15-16 months, mother chase him away.

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limited by inter-guild competition (which escalates conflict with other densities in 2005 and in 2013, in for territory and resources with predators), conflict with herders, addition to the Sopa area being lions and hyenas – major cheetah tourist activity and disease relatively high in 2013. enemies. Alongside reduction of (sarcoptic mange). prey availability, cheetahs are • In counting cheetahs, we used an Although high densities of forced out of protected lands, individual identification method, cheetahs exist in the Talek region, where they come into conflicts which I developed in 2001. It is this area is also exposed to a with herders. Among other based on visual analysis of the high level of livestock grazing problems, cheetah are susceptible unique spot patterns on front and tourism, and a reduction in to diseases affecting both felines limbs (from toes to shoulder) and resident prey numbers. Why this and canids. hind limbs (from toes to the hip), region maintains a high density • The Maasai Mara National Reserve and spots and rings on the tail. of cheetahs despite widespread and adjacent areas as a part of the ecological change is unknown. of Mara-Serengeti Ecosystem are Mara-wide counts of cheetahs One potential reason could be the a perfect example of an almost full were performed in 2002, 2005, positive indirect effects of cattle range of the problems cheetahs and 2013. The 2002 survey grazing on vegetation, improving experience in the wild and the high identified 28 adult cheetah hunting success for cheetahs. adaptability the species exhibits. utilizing the Mara ecosystem, Another possible explanation As the boundaries between these with 19 individuals spotted in could be differences in the makeup two parks and conservancies the Reserve. In 2005, Stephanie of the carnivore guild. are not fenced, cheetahs freely Dloniak identified 41 adult cheetah migrate within the ecosystem. The in the Reserve. In 2013, the Mara- Cheetah share habitat with lion Maasai Mara National Reserve Meru Cheetah Project identified prides and hyena clans and their is one of the most-visited parks 44 adults, of which, 38 were in the meetings become vital as they in the world, with the number Reserve. Thus, the median density provide cheetah an opportunity of visitors and facilities growing for cheetahs in the Reserve was to work out the best survival each year. There is a complex of the lowest in 2002 (1.25/100 km2), strategies. Hyenas are known to interconnected factors, which highest in 2005 (2.7/100 km2), snatch cheetah prey and kill and directly and indirectly affect with a small reduction in 2013 (2.5 eat cubs. Lions, apart from taking cheetah survival. Among them /100 km2). The Talek region of the away cheetah kills, kill cubs and there are: reduction in prey base Reserve maintained the highest adult cheetah.

Curious ungulates often help us spotting a cheetah.

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Females take care to avoid the area they inhabit. In Serengeti, • Mothers teach cubs by showing conflict. Female cheetahs are more the minimum distance at which examples of different behavioral successful hunters. Immediately a cheetah allows an approach strategies in various situations. after a successful hunt, a Mara by a vehicle would be 15 meters, If a mother tolerates vehicles, cheetah drags it to a safer place while in the Mara the relationship cubs adopt the same behavior. (under a bush or into a small between cheetahs and tour vehicles During playing, cubs improve patch of tall grass) and does not is a controversial issue. Some their hunting and climbing open it straight away but stays for cheetah allow cars to approach skills. Being curious, they try all up to one hour scanning the area to a distance of 20-30 meters elevated objects, starting from the and starts eating only when sure and take off at attempts to get mother’s back and then bushes that there are no other predators closer. Some use them as shelter and trees. Depending on the level around. Once the prey is opened, and observation points, which of tolerance to the vehicle of their a cheetah eats continuously for is a cause for concern. Serengeti mother, they might approach tour up to three hours and leaves the cheetah which visit the Reserve are vehicles. spot, unlike Serengeti cheetah, very different. We have watched a • In the 1980s in the Reserve, which eats faster and leaves before male following a Mara female to there were at most 1-3 cars near kleptoparasites arrive (Caro 1994). mate. When the female fearlessly the cheetah and the maximum During the rain Mara cheetah will passed between cars at a distance number of vehicles simultaneously stay with the kill at the same spot of 2-3m, he hesitated at a distance present at a cheetah site was six. for two days continuously feeding of 15-20 meters. In 2002, the maximum number from the same carcass because the • Cheetahs learn the behavior of of cars watching a cheetah at the rain creates a natural barrier for visitors and differentiate it in different same time was 23, while in 2012 dispersal of smell so hyena within areas. For example, in the Triangle, we observed 63 vehicles near one 200m cannot detect a kill. in the areas where off-road driving cheetah. • Despite the fact that cheetahs is restricted, females with cubs can • Our previous study in the Mara roam within the Mara-Serengeti tolerate vehicles at a distance of 15 in 2002 showed that in the ecosystem, they display different and less meters. The same females presence of tourists, cheetah patterns of behavior and different in areas that allowed off-road driving behavior was changing by 75%. survival strategies depending on kept a distance of more than 30m. Cars at a distance greater than

In order to take better shot, tourists often surround cheetahs and come too close, breaking Park Rules.

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13m had less influence on cheetah hunt or courtship; observe them confused cheetah for leopard. activity and behavior. The critical from a distance for this will reduce They use mostly one word for distance at which cars with incidences of interrupted hunts both carnivores - Olouwaru keri tourists had the greatest impact and mating. Avoid ‘markings’ - meaning “spotted one”, Nearly on cheetah behavior was around under trees, bushes and on the 60% blamed cheetah for losses, 6-8m. Reducing the distance grass as these are greatly utilized and out of these, 37% pointed at further produced a reduction in by animals as resting points, a cheetah photo but described activity, when cheetah lies down marking areas and food. Do not leopard behaviour: “At night the (sometimes with closed eyes) and allow cheetah to climb your tour cat climbed into a boma, took a does not show any sign of activity. vehicle; as much as cheetahs use sheep/goat and ate it up on a tree”. Such behavior is a sign of apathy elevated areas as observation • To save the cheetah in the wild, (stress immobility) induced by points, they also utilize them as we have to save its environment. tourists. The more cars surround marking points leaving a message And this means enhancing the well cheetah, or the shorter the addressed to another cheetah. being of those communities that distance became, the more often • The Mara is a fast-changing bear the direct cost of living with cheetah lie down. ecosystem where land wildlife, cheetah. • While travelling, cheetahs leave fragmentation and habitat loss • For us, education and public messages on their physiological for the cheetah is leading to awareness is key to saving the cat. and reproductive status to their increased levels of human-cheetah Working with the communities, we counterparts by scent marking interactions. This is because, are researching their perceptions, different substances. They claw as cheetahs move across the knowledge and attitude towards different surfaces and urinate ecosystem, they often pass by wildlife in general and cheetah and defecate on elevated objects human habitation and sometimes in particular to form the basis such as termite mounds, logs, tree go for small domestic stock. In for producing the most relevant trunks and forks. Cheetah that retaliation, Maasai livestock and easy to understand education climb cars often defecate on the owners want to do away with the materials for them. roof. They leave their marking predator. • Since we identified core conflict scents to pass out information • It’s becoming difficult for cheetahs zones around the reserve, we are to their counterparts. Thus, if to move around freely because of working out different ways of this is done on a tour vehicle, the the increasing number of fences mitigating human-wildlife conflict information becomes lost in the going up. Traditionally, the in the area. Apart from applying mail! Maasai were nomadic but now boma-improving strategies, we are • Visitors should ensure maximum they are settling down – hence the developing educational materials silence at animal sightings with increased private land delineation targeting different age categories – zero harassment such as calling by fencing. Interviewing Maasai from kids to elders. or whistling at sleeping animals. around the Reserve revealed • For the Maasai, cattle are their Do not follow cheetah going for that 67% respondents out of 63 wealth and premier source of

Migration provides abundant prey to all carnivores. These two brothers lose half of their kills to lions, but during migration have some relief because of reduced food competition with lions.

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Research team in the field recording cheetah behavior.

income. But, with little pasture • Cheetahs exist in a variety which lasts life-long and may and drought, alternatives to of habitats ranging from the accept unrelated males. Most maximizing benefits accruing from savannah to deserts and high females live a solitary life, but in cattle keeping should be sought. mountains. They are tolerant certain environmental conditions, These alternatives should be of to high temperatures, daytime they also form coalitions from ecological sound acceptable within fluctuations, and the snow. They sisters-littermates. the culture and way of life by the swim across rivers, climb trees and • Out of five identified subspecies, Maasai lead. rocky hills. They are active by day four live in Africa and one • Despite being classified as a and night. Their prey varies from in Eurasia, where only 120 felid, Cheetah have the following small to medium and fast moving individuals of the so-called Asiatic common features with the Canids; to slow moving large ungulates. cheetah survive in Iran. Recent the skeleton is similar to the dog Cheetah exhibit different hunting study proved three subspecies with a scapula built like in a Grey techniques depending on the to be genetically distinctive: wolf. Its milk is 99% equal to type of habitat and number of Northern-East African cheetahs that of the African Wild dog and individuals involved in the hunting (Acinonyx jubatus soemmeringii), more similar to the milk of Grey exercise. Asiatic cheetahs (Acinonyx j. wolf than to any cat. It has color • Their social organization is unique venaticus) and South-African binocular distant vision. The and represented by temporary and (Acinonyx j. jubatus), which gives cheetah’s retina has more cones permanent units. A litter size of hope for greater genetic diversity (photoreceptor cells responsible for up to eight cubs is thought to be an of the species. day vision and color perception) adaptation to high cub mortality • There are two stronghold and fewer rods (responsible for whereas a high growth rate of populations left in the world: peripheral and night vision, to cheetah cubs, compared to other one in Southern Africa (Namibia, detect brightness and shades felids, is thought to be a further Botswana and South Africa), of gray) than in other cats. This adaptation to high predation and the other in Kenya and explains the cheetah’s poor vision risk. After the mother leaves her Tanzania, represented by in darkness when compared with sub-adult cubs, they stay together different subspecies. Except for other felids. In addition, Cheetah for about half a year, after which two subspecies, cheetahs are has a visual field span of 210 a litter split occurs. Depending considered “Vulnerable” by the degrees versus 140 in humans on the number of males, they IUCN and are listed in CITES and, it can isolate details up to a start solitary life or group life in Appendix I. distance of 5 km during the day. a permanent unit – a coalition,

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The name of Jake Grieves-Cook has been synonymous with tourism in Kenya for four decades, especially in the Maasai Mara. A former chairman of the Kenya Tourist Board and Council member of EAWLS, he is now CEO of Gamewatchers, which operates prize-winning low- impact camps in the Mara along the sustainable, community-centred lines he so passionately espouses. SWARA will be visiting one and reporting back in the 2015 - 02 issue.

People say the balance increase in livestock numbers. This puts be allowed on a limited and rotational between conservation and pressure on the Reserve with frequent basis. tourism in the Mara has livestock incursions as herders look reached tipping point, for grazing for their cattle after much Is there sufficient crisis point or already gone into of the outer Mara has now become coordination between critical decline.What’s your view? over-grazed, or privately owned and all Mara stakeholders - fenced off by the owners following sub- inhabitants, the tourism The Mara was where I started division, or cultivated by wheat farmers. industry, Conservationists, KWS, my career in tourism over Livestock grazing on the savannah Local Government and Central 40 years ago, based at what plains can actually have a positive effect Government? was then the only tourist lodge in for wildlife in providing short grass and the Reserve, so I have seen some big stimulating the new growth favoured There have been numerous changes over the years! During the by some animals such as gazelles or workshops, conferences, past two decades there has been a warthogs. Also areas which have been meetings and studies in recent huge increase in the number of tourist grazed down are preferred by many years looking at ways of accommodation facilities, with new herbivores which deliberately avoid the reducing the tourism density inside the lodges and camps mushrooming both long grass in which predators such as Mara Reserve and seeking to identify inside the Mara Reserve and outside on lions could be hiding. Unfortunately, the best ways of protecting the Mara the periphery in places like Talek or as nowadays the amount of grazing by as one of the world’s greatest wildlife ribbon developments along the Mara livestock is often so excessive during the parks. At one stage a few years ago there River. There have been complaints dry season that nothing remains for the was an attempt to have a moratorium that sometimes new camps and lodges wildlife and this causes real problems. or a “freeze” on any new tourist lodge have been built on sites that were the However one positive development, developments, which meant that no home territory of various wild animal which addresses both the issue of new applications could be considered by species but the main adverse impact of tourism density in the Mara and grazing National Environmental Managaement all this new development has been to for livestock, has been the establishment Authority (NEMA), in the hope that this greatly increase the number of tourist in the last ten years of new wildlife would stop the increasing number of vehicles inside the Reserve during the conservancies on community-owned camps and lodges that were springing July to October peak season. This is land adjacent to the Reserve at Ol up. However all that happened was when masses of minibuses and 4x4s Kinyei, Naboisho, Olare Motorogi and that many developers just went ahead congregate along the Mara River in the Mara North Conservancies. These without bothering with NEMA approval, hope of seeing a “crossing”. There are conservancies have created a buffer so that many more beds were added now just far too many vehicles in the zone taking the pressure off the Reserve, during the moratorium period. There Reserve during the migration season increasing the area of protected habitat was also an attempt to introduce a with the tourism density often so high for wildlife, and providing a greatly management plan for the Mara Reserve, that it spoils the visitor experience and improved wildlife viewing experience which would have established high can actually obstruct the animals and for tourists while at the same time use and low use zones as a means of prevent them from crossing at their generating incomes and livelihoods for controlling tourism density but this was favourite spots. Another problem has the hundreds of Maasai landowners not approved and the recommendations been caused by the greatly increased whose plots have been leased to form were not adopted. Since more tourists human settlement in recent years near the conservancies and where small means more income from park entry the Reserve and the accompanying scale controlled livestock grazing can fees, there has been some resistance to

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any suggestions that visitor numbers If nothing is done, and dispersal area beyond the Reserve, should be limited. However, as current trends continue then the Mara can continue as one mentioned, one positive outcome has unchecked, how do you see of the world’s finest places for seeing been a new co-operation between the the Mara as a world tourist large concentrations of wildlife in great private sector and the local communities attraction in 10 or 15 years’ time? variety and in a spectacular natural to set up conservancies adjacent to the setting. However, a serious challenge is Reserve which have now been given The Mara is still a world- posed now by the fragmentation of the recognition by government as legal class safari destination and former group ranches and community entities. Within the conservancies there offers wonderful wildlife lands beyond the conservancies. is a strict control on tourism density as viewing for visitors. Fortunately it The sub-division of this vast area they adhere to a formula of a maximum is not isolated but is part of a vast into thousands of small plots owned of one tent (2 beds) per 700 acres of protected eco-system, connected to by individuals has meant that the conservancy and a maximum of one the larger Serengeti and with the new traditional nomadic pastoralist lifestyle vehicle per 1400 acres. The income conservancies further expanding the of the local people has had to change. earned by the landowners, whose habitat for wildlife. So there is no Pasture land and communal grazing plots make up the conservancies, is reason why it should not continue as areas are being lost as they become based on a fixed fee per acre and so a huge draw for tourists, an important individually owned, fenced off, sold to does not depend on visitor numbers. repository of bio-diversity and a developers and speculators, or turned There is now a growing realisation that valuable national resource. If action can into sprawling peri-urban settlements the form of tourism provided in the be taken to control excessive tourism and trading centres. Livestock herders conservancies is more responsible and density during the few weeks around the no longer have the same areas available sustainable and the conservancy safari August high season period every year, for their cattle to graze and are being experience is gaining popularity with by coming up with ways of reducing forced to look for free grazing in the visitors as can be seen by recent articles the number of vehicles that congregate Reserve and the Conservancies. What in the international media and the many along the river, and if the conservancies is urgently needed is for areas to be set positive reviews on TripAdvisor. can go on providing a protected aside to protect livestock rangeland

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 45 CONSERVATION

for cattle in the same way that the to come to Kenya for a safari or a habitat in the protected wildlife areas conservancies have been established for beach holiday, the demand will remain used by tourism and many of these wildlife. Unless this is done now, within depressed and the numbers of visitor alternatives will result in wildlife habitat a few years there will be nowhere left arrivals will be unlikely to reach the being lost forever. And if the tourism for many of the Maasai livestock owners level required to generate an adequate industry collapses further, so that hotels to graze their livestock herds. This will return on investment for the industry and safari companies close down, then cause a huge pressure on the wildlife and to give the boost that tourism this will cause considerable hardship habitat in the Mara Reserve and the new could make to Kenya’s economy. This to the many thousands of Kenyans conservancies with the very real threat will mean the loss of thousands of who will lose their jobs with little hope of serious environmental degradation jobs for Kenyans, a big reduction in of finding alternative employment. through over-grazing by livestock tax revenue for the government and Our tourism industry in Kenya is in the remaining areas available to a lack of income for KWS, the parks, closely linked to many other sectors them. The conservancy movement has reserves and conservancies. Tourism is of the economy which are suppliers of shown how savannah grassland can be the biggest contributor to conservation goods and services for tourists such conserved and set aside for wildlife to and if we allow our nature-based as agriculture, transport, aviation, generate an income and livelihoods for safari tourism to collapse then this banking, insurance, breweries and the landowners and we need a similar will have a massive negative impact on soft drinks, food producers, printers, movement to conserve pastureland conservation of Kenya’s iconic wildlife. car dealers, fuel companies and many for the Maasai livestock so that we do If media misperceptions are causing others as well as being an important not end up with a situation where the the collapse then there needs to be source of tax revenue for central and only grazing left is in the areas meant a serious effort to re-build a positive county governments, so all of these to be for wildlife. There is also a need image for Kenya in the major markets will also be adversely affected. What for changes to the form of livestock which have international flights coming is needed is for the government to husbandry with a greater emphasis into our national airports and which succeed in addressing the security on smaller herds but higher quality have the highest volumes of outbound situation effectively, combined with livestock and use of feedlots and hay as travel such as Germany, with 80 million a concerted effort to repair Kenya’s an alternative to nomadic grazing. outbound trips, or the UK with close image and to carry out Marketing and to 60 million overseas visits a year. Public Relations campaigns to compete Ideally we need the services of a well- with other destinations. This will help Kenya's tourism industry established international PR company to attract the growing numbers of is reeling after Westgate that can assist this country by lobbying outbound tourists travelling from the terror attack, the Travel the foreign governments on behalf key international markets while also Advisories and media- of Kenya to make them aware of the encouraging more visits to our tourist driven misperceptions. How does damage caused to both sides by blanket attractions by the local resident market. Kenya go about rebuilding its warnings to their citizens against international profile? travelling here, to make them recognise any actions taken to enhance security Are the days of high- Kenya’s tourism industry has and to engage with the media owners to volume low-cost tourism in had its share of ups and downs secure more positive reporting on Kenya Kenya over? over the last 30 years and most and its attractions. of the downturns have been as a Kenya is served by many result of negative media reports relating Wouldn’t a few years of low international airlines from to security issues over the years such as tourist numbers actually all over the world and is a armed robberies, civil unrest or terrorist be a boon for both the eco- mature tourist destination attacks. However in the past these system and the tourism with some wonderful attractions and problem periods were usually short- industry, enforcing a breathing a wide variety of tourist products lived as action was always taken to space in which to rethink and ranging from mass-market beach hotels address the issue and to rebuild Kenya’s repackage both? and big safari lodges to small, high image in the key overseas markets. quality boutique hotels and up-market What is different now is that we have Definitely not! If tourist arrivals exclusive camps in private wildlife had an extended period of decline fall to such an extent that there conservancies. Tourism offers Kenya lasting for more than two years without are inadequate funds to pay for a great opportunity to create jobs for any concerted efforts being made to conservation then the eco-system will hundreds of thousands of its citizens, address this, until fairly recently. For certainly not benefit and will actually be to bring in foreign exchange and to as long as potential visitors are being harmed since alternative forms of land boost the country’s economy. We need a made to feel convinced that it is unsafe use will quickly replace conservation of greater realisation by all in government,

46 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 46 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 CONSERVATION

the local media and other institutions in an attempt to encourage bookings Tanzania and South Africa. We must in Kenya that our tourism industry, and if visitors can be encouraged to realise that one of the main reasons which has been taken for granted and travel outside the peak season months for the global decline of wildlife in the undervalued for so long, can actually of July to September they will find world is loss of habitat. Today we are be an economic engine of growth for that costs are lower. As the security one of the world’s 30 most populous the nation as it is for so many other situation improves and travel advisories countries with one of the highest birth countries in the world which earn an are softened and if the government rates and rapidly heading towards a income from tourism even though they supports more effective marketing and population of 50 million. We already may not have Kenya’s natural resources PR campaigns to boost awareness of have over 20 million Kenyans under and attractions. We are wasting what Kenya as an attractive destination in the age of 20 and the population of could be a valuable national asset and the biggest markets, then we should see children in Kenya is now double that we need the government to recognise higher volumes once again. of a country like the UK. This is going the economic importance of tourism to put greater pressure in the future on and give it more support to fulfil its Kenya's population rate land and will cause increasing demand true potential. Look at the example is rarely mentioned as for space to grow food and for access to of countries like Malaysia, Mauritius, part of the mix of things water. As a result of the rapid increase Barbados, Turkey, Australia and Greece, building pressure on land in Kenya’s population, people need all of which have used tourism as a and resources. Do you think new places to live and have already means of boosting their economies population numbers are given the settled on land that was previously and creating employment for their importance they deserve? wildlife habitat so that outside the citizens. Developed countries have long parks and reserves the rangeland for understood that tourism is an important Kenya’s rapid population wildlife is fast disappearing. Forests sector in their economies, for example growth is definitely putting and woodland are being cut down for the USA earns $140 billion a year from huge pressure on land and charcoal or cleared for cultivation or tourism, Spain earns $60 billion, France resources. Kenya now has for housing developments. As well as $56 billion, China $51 billion and Italy, approximately 80 people per square causing habitat loss for wildlife, the Germany and UK each earn over $40 kilometre which is more than most increasing growth in human settlements billion a year. However Kenya is not a other countries in Africa that have has also caused human-wildlife conflict cheap destination and is becoming less wildlife-based tourism. This figure of as wild animals are seen as pests or competitive. The recent imposition of 80 people per sq km in Kenya compares are considered dangerous and end up VAT on tourism, combined with the with 51 in Tanzania, 41 in South Africa, being exterminated. In order for wildlife current visa charges and relatively high 17 in Zambia and only 4 in Botswana. habitats to be conserved there is an park fees, has added an extra layer of And considering that many areas in economic imperative which requires costs so that Kenya is becoming more Northern and Eastern Kenya are arid them to be economically viable and to expensive. However we have seen and sparsely populated, this means that generate an income for the landowners price-cutting and “added value” offers the density in most places in Kenya is and local people that can match other in recent months by many hoteliers actually more than double what it is in alternative land uses.

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 47 Community conservancies in Kenya come of age

The Kenya Wildlife Act, which took effect in 2013, gave Community Conservancies legal recognition for the first time. The EAWLS, together with the Northern Rangelands Trust, an organisation that supports community conservancies in the north of Kenya, were part of the lobbying team for the passing of the Bill. This is the first of a series focusing on NRT – what it does, who does it, and who and what benefits.

Sophie Harrison of managed conservation in a rapidly north of Kenya, and came of age with works for Northern Rangelands developing country and the prime legal recognition in the Kenya Wildlife Trust as a Media and Communications consultant beneficiaries, wildlife apart, were Act of 2013. tourists. In the community conservation But 60% of Kenya’s wildlife is said model, local people set aside their to reside outside of these formally land for cohesive livestock grazing and protected areas, sharing space with wildlife conservation. There are now 20 n the past, livestock and people people, not always harmoniously, community conservancies in the region, were excluded from formally but cheek by jowl. Few benefits from home to more than 280,0000 people Iprotected wildlife areas such as tourism accrued to the people who lived who manage more than 25,000 km2 of government-owned national parks among the wildlife. land. and private ranches. These areas were All that has changed over the past This movement is safeguarding set-asides for wildlife conservation, 10 years. A new movement called the future of a huge range of species, off-limits to neighbouring communities Community Conservation has been securing peace in a historically volatile and their livestock. They were bubbles quietly and confidently emerging in the area, rejuvenating degraded rangelands

The Northern Rangelands Trust conservancies cover over 25,000 km2 of land spanning nine counties in northern Kenya.

48 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 governed by a democratically elected By selling to NRT, pastoralists get a board, with dedicated grazing, tourism better price for their livestock than they and finance committees, all made up of local people. They have brought would through traditional markets about significant improvements in rangeland management and helped to stabilise, and frequently increase, wildlife populations. In the case of the and improving rural livelihoods. of ways; through fundraising, providing highly endangered hirola antelope, Yet, until the new Wildlife Act, these them with advice on how to manage now thriving in a community-operated conservancies were completely invisible their affairs, supporting a wide range sanctuary in Ishaqbini, they have under Kenyan law. of training and helping to broker been instrumental in preventing the The Northern Rangelands Trust agreements between conservancies extinction of species from certain areas. (NRT) was established in 2004, when and investors. The impact that NRT Conservancy rangers, supported the Honorable Francis Ole Kaparo has had on communities and wildlife by NRT, are playing a significant role suggested to Ian Craig, then the has attracted international attention; in tackling ivory poaching and other manager of Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, the Trust’s principal donors for core wildlife crimes. A 28% reduction in that it was time to assist the growing programme support now include the elephant poaching in the conservancies number of established community United States Agency for International in 2014 speaks for itself. Just as conservancies in northern Kenya. Development, The Nature Conservancy, importantly, the conservancies have Ian had a vested interest in making the Danish International Development helped to bring peace and security sure wildlife that migrated out of Agency, the Royal Netherlands to areas which have been plagued by Lewa would still be protected, and Embassy, and Fonds Fraincais por violent conflict, cattle rustling and had already started reaching out l’Environnement Mondial. banditry. to surrounding communities. NRT The conservancies, now legally- With the help of NRT, the supports the conservancies in a number registered institutions, are each conservancies are generating millions

The Hirola is one of the most endangered mammals in the world - but the community of Ishaqbini are helping to secure its future.

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 49 Rendille pastoralists return after a trip to of dollars of investment from tourism programme that is providing women town to sell their goats - NRT are working and livestock sales. These profits in the conservancies with a significant with communities to develop sustainable are pumped back into community source of income. Profits to women’s grazing practices in conservancies. projects such as school bursaries, and groups selling beaded jewellery to the conservancy operating costs. NRT Trading project rose to 8.8 million Over the two years of 2012 and 2013, Kenyan shillings in 2013, benefiting programmes. This is conservation 964 pastoralists from 11 conservancies over 800 women. A microcredit scheme being driven by local people, who are had sold 66 million Kenyan shillings established by NRT has also helped adapting traditional livelihoods to (USD 740,000) worth of cattle to NRT. women to set up new enterprises. These create a future of peace, steady income, By selling to NRT, pastoralists get a endeavours have significantly improved abundant wildlife and healthy cattle. better price for their livestock than they income and family welfare, with many The ripple effect of the conservancies’ would through traditional markets. At women using the profits from bead sales success continues to change the the same time, the grazing programme to buy better food and pay school fees. mindsets of marginalised communities provides communities with skills With a regular Spotlight section across northern Kenya, who are now and incentives to restore grassland in SWARA now dedicated to NRT, increasingly willing to take charge of productivity. Better grasslands coming issues will feature the stories their own destinies. attract more wildlife, which lays the behind each of the Trust’s specific foundation for tourism operations. Conservancy and bed-night fees from tourists generated over 47.4 million NRT principal donors Kenyan shillings (USD 532,500) in 2013. This was used to pay for rangers’ salaries, water projects and other ventures identified as a priority by local communities. To empower women in the communities - NRT manages a

50 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 Famed Arabuko Sokoke Forest wins reprieve from Oil Company

exclusively inside the reserve. Its 420 But is the CAMAC letter a victory By EAWLS Correspondents km2 of cover is the largest coastal for campaigning conservationists, or a forest in East Africa and home to six reprieve? Whilst the letter from CAMAC n November 21, the American endangered birds, including the Sokoke Energy says that they will not enter oil company CAMAC Energy scops Owl, the Sokoke pipit, and more the Arabuko Sokoke Forest Reserve, Ocancelled plans to prospect than 250 species of butterflies. It was the Arabuko Sokoke Forest Adjacent for oil in the Arabuko Sokoke Forest listed by UNESCO as a “biodiversity Dwellers Association (ASFADA) is not Reserve, one of the largest coastal hotspot”, one of only 25 in the world. convinced that this will save the forest. forests in Africa and home to many Prior to the reprieve, CAMAC began ASFADA maintains that the endangered species. exploration of Block 16, licenced by Environmental and Social Impact CAMAC’s letter (Pg 52) followed the Kenyan government, by blasting Assessment (ESIA) conducted by international media publicity of its every 60 metres along two transect CAMAC is flawed and completely plans to blast and check the forest’s soil lines, which go through the forest and inadequate with little or no public for oil in the increasing scramble for adjacent areas, sending shockwaves consultation. It is asking the National new sources of the fossil fuel all over up to 4k below the earth’s surface to Environmental Management Authority East Africa. measure for potential oil deposits. (NEMA) for the ESIA to be completely The reserve is home to more than Conservationists ran into opposition reviewed. 100 forest elephants, at least three from local people and their leaders As one of the main lead stakeholder endangered mammals: the Aders’ anxious to secure jobs should oil be found groups in the area, ASFADA, was not duiker, or antelope, the Bushy-tailed – an understandable priority in an area included in the CAMAC ESIA. Transect mongoose and the Golden-rumped where employment from tourism has lines continue to be dug near and on the elephant shrew, which are found almost nosedived because of recent insecurity. boundary of the forest, however, and on

View of Arabuko Sokoke Forest

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 51 Left: Sokoke Scops Owl Right: Golden-rumped Elephant Shrew

was no previous consultation regarding ASFADA members greatly benefit from the compensation. Many have lost crops forest and place a high value on it. They see due to be harvested. In spite of an order by the Kilifi County Governor to stop themselves as the guardians of the forest. If work for two weeks from November 21 their adjacent lands are impacted, who will in order to assess the situation, CAMAC protect the forest? / BGP continue their work. Block 16 is one of the most highly valued environmental and culturally diverse of all Kenyan exploration blocks. 5th December 2014, seismic drilling took ASFADA is also concerned about A very large part of Block 16 is made place at the Jilore Forest station. what will happen in the follow up survey up of numerous important sensitive CAMAC and its Chinese BGP team work and more to the point, what will sites, as well as the Arabuko Sokoke partners were eventually chased away happen if oil is found in the area. Will Forest; such as the Malindi - Watamu by KFS, KWS and ASFADA members. the Kenya Government pledge to keep Marine Protected Areas, the Dakatcha The Mjimboni Association Chief then the Arabuko Sokoke Forest safe for Woodlands, Gede Forest & Ruins, announced at a public meeting on 6th eternity? ASFADA members greatly several Kayas (sacred sites) and the December that a new transect line benefit from the forest and place a high Sabaki riverine wetlands and estuary, would be added from the Arabuko value on it. They see themselves as the amongst others. All these are within 'Elephant' swamp. This swamp is a guardians of the forest. If their adjacent Block 16. Many wonder when an in critically important water source for lands are impacted, who will protect depth environmental impact survey many species and especially the forests the forest? So far there are no reports of this highly sensitive area, was not elephants. Seismic work is seriously of community members receiving any done before it was considered as an disturbing to elephants. Local people compensation for the work CAMAC / exploration block. have described the sonic testing as being BGP have carried out on their lands. like an earthquake. Fears are deepening, especially as there

52 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 53 Hells Gate National Park and Geothermal Development espite Vision 2030 incorporating with wildlife movements and tourist where Ken Gen in particular listens much wildlife based tourism as a enjoyment. But on a site visit, it was more carefully to what is being highlighted Dmajor economic driver, there confirmed by KenGen that these pipes as concerns and suggested remedies. is increasing pressure on our protected could go underground for the cost To meet these challenges , it is important areas. This can be seen in Nairobi National of digging the appropriate trench in to echo the recommendations made by Park, the Maasai Mara National Reserve exactly the same manner as oil pipes the recent Wildlife Security Task Force as and Hell’s Gate National Park for example. are placed. follows: The purpose of this article is to highlight the • There is an agreement that Well 40 very real concerns in regard to Hell’s Gate should be shut down because of the 1. Set up a compliance committee to NP. It is vital to do this because Geothermal risk it poses particularly to the vulture provide the oversight and monitoring development is being considered in colony due to water overspill into the that is now urgently needed. This Longonot National Park, Eburru, Soysambu nesting area. But so far this agreement committee should be chaired by the Conservancy, Menengai, , has been ignored. Ministry of Environment, Water and Lake Bogoria and Lake Baringo and some • The principle of setting limits to the Natural Resources, since national of these areas are World Heritage Sites. Geothermal development in Hells Gate parks fall under that portfolio. Other Firstly, it needs to be recognized that was agreed as desirable, but no such members should include the Ministry of Hells Gate National Park is a prime asset limits have been defined or set. Energy, KWS, KenGen, NEMA and one in Kenya’s National Park network, with • The equipment used on the wells is or two committed and knowledgeable unique landscapes. The cliffs themselves substandard and permits unnecessary stakeholders, such as Nature Kenya have provided nesting sites for 3 atmospheric pollution and noise. The (Hells Gate NP is an important Bird endangered Birds of Prey. Two of these standard that should be followed is that Area), and possibly the key donors, – the Lammergeyer and Egyptian Vulture provided by the example of Omart 4. such as World Bank. have gone extinct in the park largely due • Environmental monitoring is undertaken 2. Revise, update and convert the MoU to disturbance factors. The third species – by NEMA, Vision 2030, the World Bank into a contract, which can be properly Ruppell’s Vulture has significantly declined and the Electricity Regulatory Board. enforced and monitored. and is under threat from KenGen activities. The experience from visiting the park 3. Ensure that limits to the Geothermal This site is one of two known nesting sites and obtaining the information from such development in Hells gate are set and in Kenya and the only one occurring in a a visit, suggests this monitoring is not in respected so that the integrity of the protected area. any way adequate or thorough. National Park is maintained. On the face of it, the basis for a good • Expanding Hells Gate area is seen as 4. Ensure that any economic analysis relationship between Kenya Wildlife a panacea for addressing some of the reflects the economic value of Hells Service (KWS) and Kenya Electricity environmental issue brought about by Gate as a national park and not just Generating Company Limited (KenGen) the Geothermal development. But there what is best for KenGen’s profit. is there, in the form of a MoU but due is a disconnect here as no amount of 5. Ensure that the management plan is diligence has not been applied by either expansion can replace the quality of strictly adhered to and remedy where party and this has led to some real issues. the core area if that is compromised by the plan has been ignored. These issues include the following: the geothermal development. Related 6. Ensure Well 40 is removed as this to this is an idea that KWS should own directly threatens the Vultures. • There is a management plan setting a ‘Wellhead’ as a way of improving 7. Ensure that environmental best out zones. These zones include its income. But this should not practice is applied to the laying out of ones where in theory it is agreed no compromise KWS in sticking to its core the steam pipes and to the noise and geothermal development will occur. business of looking after the National pollution emissions from the wells. Yet drilling has been taking place in Park to the best of its ability. one of these zones. The KWS Field These recommendations were made Team wrote to KWS HQ pointing The main challenge that therefore need available in June, 2014. Investigation as out this violation. No response has to be addressed is getting a commitment by to whether any improvements have taken been forthcoming. all parties that Kenya can have Geothermal place reveals that no changes for the better • EAWLS has seen in writing development but it should not undermine the seem to have occurred. This suggests that that putting the steam pipes other Vision 2030 strategy of keeping our the Hells Gate NP issues are falling on deaf underground would be very wildlife resources as the basis for growing our ears, which is very disillusioning and does expensive. Over the ground, these economy through the tourist sector. not bode well for the future of Kenya’s pipes provide a considerable The second challenge is getting a much environment. eyesore and certainly interfere better engagement between the stakeholders

54 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 Steve Trott eptember 20th was International In 2013 Watamu Marine Association is a marine zoologist and Chairman Coastal Cleanup Day. This annual (WMA) and partner organization Ocean of Watamu Marine Association. WMA is made up of 30 groups and event is organised by the Ocean Sole Foundation www.ocean-sole.com organisations from the community, S Conservancy www.oceanconservancy. organised the first East Africa cleanup. tourism and conservation sectors in Watamu. WMA runs sustainable org based in the USA. The data they Sixteen coastal communities took part tourism and ecotourism projects, receive from the event helps them from Kiunga in the north of Kenya to community waste management and recycling to collect scientific information for Mafia Island in Tanzania. Together enterprises and marine conservation and research programs. education purposes and to gain we collected 9,803kg of marine debris Email: [email protected] support and lobby governments and (garbage) from our beaches. Facebook watamumarineassociation www.watamu.biz policy makers in an effort to reduce In 2014 we saw another great effort the amount of garbage and pollutants with 41 groups, organisations and entering the world’s oceans. Last year schools from 12 coastal communities 648,015 volunteers in 92 countries taking part from Lamu to Dar es picked up 5,590,000kg of garbage. Salaam. 14 beaches were cleaned

Watamu Madrassa School children beach cleaning.

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 55 Top Left: Marine debris flip flops made into beer coolers. Below Left: Plastic bottle caps are the most common items found on our beaches. Right: Flip flops from Watamu beach ready for recycling. covering more than 30km. More than 1,100 people collected 9,803kg of marine debris which was an amazing coincidence as it is exactly the same amount as last year! world’s oceans. Global production of one third the total biomass of fish – 1kg Data collected gave us an indication plastic now stands at 288 million tonnes of plastic for every 2kg of fish, according of the most common types of marine per year, of which 10% ends up in the to Nicholas Mallos from Ocean debris found on our beaches which are ocean over time. Most of that - 80% - Conservancy. small plastic pieces, polystyrene, plastic comes from land-based sources. Litter According to the UN Environment bottle caps, plastic bottles and flip flops. gets swept into drain systems and ends Programme there are on average 13,000 The good news is that plastic and flip up in rivers which flow out to the sea. pieces of floating plastic per square flops can be reused or recycled. WMA The plastic is carried by currents kilometer of ocean, but that goes up to operates a plastic recycling facility and congregates in five revolving water millions of pieces in the gyres. Many of where our plastic waste is put through a systems, called gyres, in the major these particles end up being accidentally crusher machine and reduced to small oceans, the most infamous being the ingested by marine animals, which can chips which is then sold by the kilo to “Great Pacific Garbage Patch”, half way die of starvation and other problems plastic recycling industries in Mombasa. between Hawaii and California. caused by plastic filling their digestive Profits from this enterprise help fund The concentration of plastic in these systems. the “Blue Team” community waste areas is high and has been described Sea turtles are common victims of collectors who carry out weekly beach as a “plastic soup” and is spread out plastic bags, which when immersed in and village cleanups. Flip flop waste over an area twice the size of Texas. water look very similar to jellyfish, an is used by Ocean Sole and Watamu What's more, the plastic does not stay important food source for some turtle community artists to create unique in one place; it rotates and stretches for species. A sea turtles throat anatomy sculptures, curios and works of art. millions of square kilometers. makes it impossible for turtles to The amount of plastic being discarded regurgitate bags once they've started to The Global Challenge into the marine environment is such swallow. Over the last 30 to 40 years, millions that we could eventually see an ocean Plastics can also act as a sponge and of tonnes of plastic have entered the where the amount of plastics is roughly absorb chemicals in the water. Sea

56 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 Sea birds, such as albatross, and many fish eat small pieces of plastic mistaking them for food items. This can result in ill health and death.

of scientists to prove that it will not be good. Currently teams of scientists, engineers and inventors worldwide are trying to develop cleanup technologies designed to capture plastic in rivers and oceans. These technologies may be a long time coming and will be costly to operate. What we need right now is global commitment from the plastic manufacturers to put measures in place to reduce plastic waste and for governments to create effective policies and waste management plans with adequate financial backing to drastically reduce the amount of plastic waste entering our rivers and oceans. There is little profit in taking back waste and it doesn't cost us anything to throw it away irresponsibly. But the cost to our oceans and the health of our blue planet could be very high in the long term if we continue as we are. Government-subsidized plastic recycling industries is an Sorting plastic waste for recycling after the beach cleanup. obvious solution as well as support and investment in community based recycling enterprises. birds, such as albatross, and many fish you're going to the last frontier on earth, In the meantime we can all do our eat small pieces of plastic mistaking exploring new places, and you find that bit and make a difference by keeping them for food items. This can result our litter's got there first," she says. "It's our beaches clean and free of plastic in ill health and death. A worrying like going to the moon and finding a waste. If you live near the beach try question is, how does that transfer up crisp packet." and join or form a local group and do the food chain and what is the impact? Floating ocean plastic eventually regular cleanups; get the kids involved Marine debris is now floating and breaks down into tiny fragments called and make it a fun event. If you are on sinking its way to all parts of our oceans. microplastics, which then make their a beach holiday each time you go for a Dr. Kerry Howell, a deep-sea researcher way throughout the water column and walk, take a bag with you and collect at the University of Plymouth says she settle in sea bed sediment and beach what you can. If you visit Watamu, has found marine debris in the deepest sand. The impact this scale of pollutant WMA can advise you on where to take it parts of the ocean. "You're going to may have on our ocean ecosystems is for recycling. Karibu and join us on the a place no-one's ever been to before, yet unknown but it doesn’t take a team beach for the next cleanup!

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 57 Major Amboseli camp goes with the solar glow

Rupert Watson So I started to ask some is a naturalist, author and lawyer questions, and yes, it may who has lived in Kenya for more than 30 years. well be. This is how it was before. Two 60 kva (kilo volt ampere) generators throbbed away for five hours each, every day, to power the facilities for 40 visitors, t was a couple of lines in the Kenya 80 staff, two swimming Airways magazine, Msafiri, that pools and all the rest of the caught my eye - words to the effect paraphernalia that goes I with a camp of that size. The that Cheli & Peacock’s Tortilis Camp in Amboseli had, on June 1st 2014, gone tents, kitchen and public A ton of Carbon Dioxide 100% solar - 24/7. areas were additionally Well, I thought, is that such a big serviced by four banks of deal? Surely lots of camps use solar batteries, each with its own Fuelling those two generators took 28,000 litres power. How often have I stayed inverter, thus ensuring of diesel every year. The Cheli & Peacock publicity somewhere that encourages me to continuing 24-hour power material estimates that burning this every year shower in the evening while the water is to these areas when the produced 60 tons of Carbon Dioxide. I’ve never still sun-hot, or at least sun lukewarm? generators were off. sorted out how gas can be weighed in tons and

Some of the 190 solar panels that power the batteries

58 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 Stefano and Tortilis camp manager Andrea Lanzone among the batteries

reading several so-called explanations users) and on-grid sites with its solar storage bank in East Africa. The 47 kwp to the question on Google gets me no alternatives. And this is what they (kilowatt peak - being the maximum nearer to an understanding, except it worked out together. power production under full sun) seems generally agreed that one ton Solar4Africa would install all the system is designed to replace all the will fill a balloon about ten meters in capital equipment, at its own expense camp’s 28,000 litres of diesel with solar diameter. - and continue to own it. It would energy. One day Stefano Cheli asked himself also manage and maintain the whole Once up and running, one of the a question? Why are we producing all system. The camp would pay for the generators and all the old type batteries this awful exhaust, in a conservation electricity it consumes on a pay-for- were sold, but yes, ‘100% solar’ still area, when the sun shines for most use basis at a rate that ensures it doesn’t quite mean what it says and the of 320 days a year? Is there really no never pays more than the cost of the remaining generator needs to kick in if viable alternative? generator-supplied power it used to there are two consecutive cloudy days. So Stefano looked around, did a lot use. This cost was calculated to include Meanwhile, Solar4Africa manages of sums and quickly realised the camp the diesel, generator maintenance and and maintains the equipment, most couldn’t possibly afford to install the depreciation. of the time without going anywhere infrastructure to replace the generators So, little change in cost to the near it - to the extent that if a battery with solar power. Undaunted, he camp, but huge change in cost to the fails to charge, this shows on a Nairobi continued his searches for a solution, environment. computer. And both companies are and ended up in touch with the South The sun’s energy is gathered up by exploring further use of the formula African owned Kenyan company, NVI 190 solar panels, covering an area they worked out for Tortilis, although Energy, whose Solar4Africa has been of 440 m2, and carefully sited for to reap the full benefits of such a involved in the installation of solar minimum visual impact. These power large initial capital outlay, 40 beds is energy projects all over Africa. The a bank of 48 batteries, each weighing about the minimum needed to make it company targets both off-grid (diesel a colossal 216kgs, perhaps the largest worthwhile.

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 59 By Colin Church

Left: Crowds gather for the 2014 Masai Olympics at Kimana/Sidai Oleng sanctuary in Amboseli.

Top Right: Javelin thrower

Main Photo: David Rudisha the world's fastest 800 meter runner and Olympic champion (rear) is starter for the four finalists from Kuku, Olgolului,and Mbirikani group ranch manyattas in the Maasai Olympics 800 meter race.

60 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 ield and track events of Rudisha challenged the finalists and traditional Maasai style is the winners at the prize giving ceremony Fwarrior challenge in Amboseli when he declared: “As a Maasai of this today – no longer lion killing. same age group, I am convinced that The National Geographic Society our people can become great athletes sponsored the second ever Maasai with a cause. By doing so we will Olympics at Kimana/Sidai Oleng on introduce a greater and more rewarding December 13, 2014 and witnessed challenge to manhood than killing the current warrior age group of the lions.” Amboseli/Tsavo ecosystem compete in Media exposure placed the Maasai traditional Maasai events – hurling the Olympics as top human story during spear (javelin) and the rungu, vertical the weekend of December 13-14 with jumping and running. coverage on all major global TV, print Proposed by the menye layiok ‘fathers and radio channels including BBC, of the warriors’ representing over CNN, AFP, AP, and Reuters, CCTV 100,000 inhabitants, the new warriors “Our warriors have been training for of the 2012-2027 age group have months before the heats so that all who committed to athletics as the passage achieve places are the top athletes of our to manhood, instead of killing lions, the region,” said one of the winners traditional stepping stone to being a A rigorous round of competing heats recognised adult. in all events including two events for Patron of the Maasai Olympics David girls – 200 meters and 1500 meters – Rudisha – Kenya’s greatest middle was completed in the build up weeks. distance runner, 800-meter world An array of medals and prizes were record holder and Olympian super star competed for. But the big challenge for at the 2012 London Olympics – himself the manyatta-based teams competing a Maasai - attended the event. was a premier breeding bull for the

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 61 manyatta with the highest results overall. This was won by Mbirikani for the second time. Student scholarships and cash prizes made up the overall pot of winnings for the teams. “We warriors hunted lions as a manyatta group and now we hunt for rewards in athletics. Our 500-year culture has taken a dramatic turn away from the sport of lion killing ”, said 5000 meter winner David Karisia. The Games remain embedded in traditional warrior skills – running at 200 meters, 800 meters and 5000 meters, and three field events – throwing the spear (javelin) for distance, the rungu for accuracy and high jump, but in the classic Masai vertical fashion - standing – not running up to a bar.

Top Right: Crowds cheer on 5000 meter winner David Kirisia of Mbirikani Group Ranch manyatta in 16 minutes 12 seconds. Below Right: Warriors of Mbirikani of the Masai Olympics hold the winners cup aloft. Below: Charles Sankale 800m runner of Olgolului Group Ranch manyatta congratulated by David Rudisha. With its emphasis on team participation, all compete for the group ranch/ manyatta prize of most points overall. Mbirikani were the winners again this year followed by Olgolului, Kuku and Rombo in that order. Olgolului won the Chester Zoo conservation award for scholarships. Mbirikani’s 5000 meters champion David Karisia and Olgolului’s 800-meter winner Charles Sankale won the coveted winners of the places in the 2015 New York Marathon Other major sponsors include Chester Zoo with a conservation prize, African Wildlife Foundation (AWF), InterActions and Solidarity (Monaco), Charles Tate (USA) and the Maasai Wilderness Trust (providing two New York Marathon prizes). Contributors include Amboseli Trust for Elephants, Olive Branch (providing the use of the Kimana/Sidai Oleng Wildlife Sanctuary, Ol Donyo Lodge/Great Plains Conservation, Loan Travis (USA, East African Portland Cement, Marleen Groen (Netherlands) and writer/photographer, Carol Beckwith (USA). Co-founder with the Maasai community of Amboseli/Tsavo – and organizing sponsor of Maasai Olympics is Big Life Foundation. The first ever Maasai Olympics was staged in December 2012. It runs on a bi-annual calendar with a build up momentum of rigorous training amongst the thousands of young warriors and girls in the period prior to the heats and actual event. It is aimed at creating a new generation of highly skilled and motivated Maasai athletes to compete in national and international events instead of the traditional lion killing of the past.

The next event is scheduled for December 2016.

62 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 “Who will now care for the animals, for they cannot look after themselves? Are there young men and women who are willing to take this charge? Who will raise their voices when mine is carried away on the wind to plead their case? George Adamson 1906-1989

To carry on his legacy, Kenya graveside, George Adamson Bridge - By Paul Udoto Wildlife Service (KWS) is working with known as Kora Bridge, Kora Rapids neighbouring county governments and diverse wildlife and birds. For the and other stakeholders to create a lion adventurous, the places to stay in the onservationists of all shades sanctuary in Kora in Tana River County, park include Kampi ya Simba and Kora recently trooped to Kora the area he immortalised through his picnic site. CNational Park, popularly known adventures. Visitors to the park have various as ‘the last wilderness’, to respond to is the third largest activities to engage in at their disposal, the above call at the climax of the 25th park in Kenya after Tsavo East and including camping, birding, star gazing, anniversary of the death of legendary rock climbing- Kora Rock and guided conservationist George Adamson, ‘the bush and walking safaris. Lion Man of Africa’. George Adamson was murdered by Like the Biblical grain of wheat, which people who were reportedly unhappy must die to bring forth new and better with the success of his conservation life, George Adamson’s horrific death efforts and his strange antics of inspired a legion of conservationists the domesticating and living with the king world over. of the jungle. George Adamson was the poster So, what is the significance of George child of Kenya’s conservation prowess Adamson’s life and times for the for decades and put the country on the modern generation, a quarter a century world map. His image as a sun-gnarled after his death? figure with mane of yellow white hair Though he was deeply loved and usually dressed in shorts and sandals respected by so many people all over with the signature pipe and whisky, the world, not many have visited where remains etched in many of his fans’ he used to work, to see how he used to minds. live, and where he was buried. That is The conservation icon and his wife, why the anniversary was marked by his Joy Adamson, are best known through graveside and in the area he lived and their gripping movie Born Free (1966) loved. and best-selling book under the same The commemoration held at title. The movie is based on the true Adamson’s grave aims to celebrate story of Elsa the Lioness, an orphaned his conservation efforts and devise cub they had raised in Kora and later Tsavo West. It has bragging rights as ways of getting the new generation of released it into the wild but with which the least-visited, utterly unspoilt and conservationists to carry on with his they maintained a friendly relationship.. the most geographically diverse park in legacy. Several other films have been made Kenya. The national park was gazetted Participants at the anniversary based on George Adamson's eventful life in 1989 in honour of George Adamson’s camped at Adamson’s Camp and Tana such as The Lions Are Free (1967), An wishes and covers an area of 1, 787 sq km. River Campsite for the three days where Elephant Called Slowly (1969), Living Its key attractions include pristine they watched his films, visited cultural Free (1972), Christian the Lion (1972) wilderness, inselbergs, Tana river, manyattas and a gallery exhibition. and To Walk With Lions (1999). Adamson Falls, George Adamson They also visited Kora Rapids and

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 63 Kora Rock before participating in a every effort is being made to ensure that gazetted Kora as a national park in cultural festival in his honour. Lastly, Kenya either stabilises its population at honour of his work. prayers were made by his graveside. the current population or increases the ‘Mr Lion Man’ George Adamson The significance of George numbers to an ecologically acceptable gained world fame and affection Adamson’s life lies in the fact that level. That is the reason the anniversary for rehabilitating captive or his legacy seems to be on a shaky is significant. orphaned big cats for eventual ground given that conservationists It’s ironic that a renowned British reintroduction into the wild. He have warned that lions may become wildlife conservationist put Kenya believed that lions had a sixth sense extinct in Kenya within the next 20 on the global wildlife conservation and was convinced that a scientific years unless urgent action is taken to map through his pioneering work of explanation would one day be found save them. rehabilitating orphaned lions in the about the mysterious, apparently Kenya has been losing an average 1970s and now country he made famous telepathic communication skills of of 100 of its 2,000 lions every year for lions faces possible extinction of the lions - particularly between lions and due to poisoning, growing human species. human beings. settlements, increasing farming, George Adamson was shot dead by He must be among the few people climate change and disease. Yet lions Shifta bandits on August 20, 1989, at in the world with the honour of being have a special place in Kenyans' the age of 83. The late conservationist, buried in a protected area. livelihood and conservation efforts. then popularly known as the father The burial site makes him lie in the Other than being the symbol for of lions in Africa, is best remembered league of American millionaire Sir national strength and role in the for keeping and nurturing a pack of Northrup Macmillan who was buried ecosystem, they are among the Big domesticated lions in the wilderness of near the peak of Kilimambogo in Ol Five, a major attraction for visitors the expansive park. Donyo Sabuk National Park, a few to Kenya. George Adamson, the professional kilometers from Thika Town towards There were 2,749 lions in Kenya in big game hunter –turned-warden, first Garissa. 2002 and their population dropped visited Kenya in 1924 and embarked Long live George Adamson, to 2,280 by 2004 and to roughly on a series of fascinating adventures ‘the Lion Man of Africa’. 2,000 today, according to Kenya that ended when he was shot dead By Paul Udoto who is the spokesman Wildlife Service. The trend of lion by bandits in Kora National Reserve. for Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) population decline is disturbing and Shortly after his death, the government

64 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 How to get there From Nairobi, Kora National Park is in the eastern side and reached either by air to Kinna or Mulika airstrips in or travel by road along the Nairobi-Meru-Maua-Meru National Park road via the Kora Bridge on River Tana and drive along the river till you get to the camping venue which is all set or drive along the Mwingi reserve to Tseikuru, Macuungwa then into Kora or travel by road from Nairobi-Thika-Mwingi-Tseikuru-Macuungwa road and also from Mombasa-Garsen-Garissa-Bangale-Asako road into Kora National Park. Road distances vary from 320km to close to 480km depending on your point of origin. Private airlines from Wilson Airport in Nairobi and Mombasa or Malindi to Meru National Park are available.

Places to Stay • Kampi ya Simba • Kora picnic site

Kenya the home of the global Born Free brand The Born Free Foundation is a dynamic wildlife charity, founded by the actors Bill Travers and Virginia McKenna OBE in 1984. Although based in the UK, it prides itself as having its umbilical cord buried in the Kenyan soil. It was described by The Times as “Big Enough to make a difference but small enough to care”. In 2002, Born Free established an office in Kenya to coordinate support for projects in the region. Today, led by the couple’s son Will Travers, Born Free takes action worldwide to save wild animal lives, stop suffering, rescue individuals and protect species. From small beginnings, Born Free Foundation has grown into a global force for wildlife. In 1966 Bill and Virginia starred in the classic film Born Free. It told the extraordinary true tale of Elsa the lioness and George and Joy Adamson’s battle to return her to the wild. The fate of the African lion and the charity are inextricably linked, they feature Elsa the lioness on their logo and the true story of her journey to freedom inspires everything the charity does. The Born Free story has been enjoyed by tens of millions around the globe, inspiring a generation and changing the world’s attitude to wildlife forever. In 2002, Born Free established an office in Kenya to coordinate support for projects in the region. These include elephant studies in Amboseli and Mount Elgon, support of the “Making the film in Kenya had a Kenya Wildlife Service elephant and giraffe relocation team and vet tremendous impact. Bill and I learned unit, lion conflict resolution, anti-poaching patrols, snare removal, to love lions and love Africa. Guided by bushmeat awareness, legislative reform and protecting the Mount George and Joy we began to understand Kenya and Tsavo/ Mkomazi eco-systems. The charity, in collaboration how every animal is individual and that with Kenya Wildlife Service and the local Maasai community, has wild animals belong in the wild.” supported the construction of dozens of lion-proof bomas in Virginia McKenna OBE Amboseli. The community members now promote peaceful co- existence between predators and people and no longer see the need for retaliatory killing of carnivores. Kenya Airways joined forces with the charity to raise funds for wildlife conservation in Kenya and across Africa.

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 65 Where Luxury and Philosophy Meet

By Andrew Hill

ake an old cattle ranch facing Mount Kenya on 50,000 acres of sumptuous Kenyan savannah. Build eight separate wood and thatch villas to Conde’ TNast luxury travel standards with a hot tub on every veranda overlooking a watering hole for every view. Add fine cuisine, an extravagant and huge art collection, enlightened Community Conservation programmes and run it all on solar power and sustainable water management and what do you get? The answer still would not add up to the unique experience that is Segera Retreat. The scope and breadth of it all defies simple addition. So does the philosophy of the Zeitz Foundation, which is behind it – one whose mantra is sustainability through the 4 C's – “a healthy balance of Conservation, Community, Culture, and Commerce.”

66 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 On Safari

FACING PAGE: 1st Left: A Segera room. 2nd Left: Elephants migration with lots of young. 3rd Left: One of the dining areas with gorgeous candelabra. 4th Left: Male Lion in hunting mode. 1st Right: 2nd Right: Giraffe and zebra in foreground, of the lodge.

Top: The Segera compound. Ancient cactus encloses it all. No need for electric fences. Below: Editor with the biplane used in Out of Africa, which now resides in the Segera Hangar.

Small wonder that Jochen Zeitz, the man behind Segera, and a chain of allied destinations, was invited to provide a keynote address representing the global business community at this year’s International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) World Park Congress, a landmark global forum on protected areas in Sydney last November. In these troubled times of global economic uncertainty, violence and security blighting Africa’s tourism, it takes the term unforgettable out of the Being there reminds you of Africa’s takes a wealthy man to propound such realm of hyperbole and into reality. unending magnetism for those in search views with confidence, and he is and There’s something reminiscent of space, spiritual refreshment, wildlife does. We will interview him in a future here of Out of Africa, the 1985 Sydney and astonishment. And in remarkable issue. Pollack film that launched a generation comfort. Segera oozes high-end luxury, and it of safari-suited visitors to the continent It’s odd to be writing about a takes a privileged pocket to pay for the and a wave of films, books and shops to relatively new addition to Kenya’s high- experience at about $1,000 per person feed that curiosity. end lodges – Lewa and Ol Jogi are not per night. Such people voted Segera It’s not just the yellow Gypsy Moth far away – when the country’s tourism as one of the world’s top new hotels in bi-plane in the hangar, the same one is in the doldrums. Conde Nast Traveller magazine. used in the film and flown occasionally But manager Jens Kozany is But it’s the kind of place, and by Zeitz, or the convertible Rolls Royce unphased, phlegmatic and optimistic. experience, that sings “Special” and Silver Shadow on display in the garage. “We are actually doing quite well.

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 67 On Safari

Waterbank for school children under construction.

Tourism will increase again, that’s sure, the property eight years ago? “The first three schools for children built with and it’s not all about making money, it’s thing we did was to tear down all the help from the Zeitz Foundation, all to share. “ wire fences so that animals could move innovatively designed with inverted This is not New Age babble or freely, especially as this is a migration roofs and water catchment tanks to Marketing-Speak but reflects the corridor,” says Kozany, all except for the catch the downpours, feeding school philosophy of Zeitz, whose foundation fence to the South, “ to keep the animals and community gardens. There’s a set up the Long Run Initiative grouping away from the communities and keep library, environmental education centre 35 similar destinations around the them safe.” and sports stadium too, also supported world, and allied establishments trading Community involvement is Laikipia’s by Zeitz Foundation, Segera and under the banner as Global Ecosphere watchword and Segera has engaged neighbouring ranches. Retreats (GERs). local people in Grazing Committees “Many kids just didn’t go to school. The mission of the Zeitz Foundation so that they can feed their livestock in They went out and collected water. is to “create, support and sustain, an organized way at rates agreed by So now they come to school instead. ecologically and socially responsible landowners across the plateau. There’s a programme on hand washing projects and destinations around the The lodge employs about 200 local to stop infections, and we’ve noticed world to achieve long-lasting impact people but the community has, with that two thirds of the children are now and sustainability.” Segera help, created income for itself free of stomach upsets. All that in a “Without ever generating income, by growing and cultivating food with short time.” we can only preserve so much of rainwater harvested for the purpose. Inside the retreat itself sustainability this planet, therefore we'll have to “We thought we could teach people is a watchword. The place runs on create concepts and ideas that are how to grow vegetables. What happened solar power completely with backup commercially based that will ultimately was that we created a sustainable generators for emergencies. “We don’t allow us to increase the amount of business for the community – they just shine in the front and burn at protected areas", Zeitz says on one of sell a lot and women have turned into the back,” says the manager. “We are the movement’s websites. remarkable entrepreneurs,” says Kozany. serious.” How does that thinking translate into Water shortages are omnipresent on Grey water is recycled for the what happened when Zeitz acquired Laikipia. What Segera did was to get ornamental and vegetable gardens.

68 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 On Safari

The SATUBO Beading Group, transforming tradition into financial enterprise. Some of the exhibits in the Retreat's huge An extraordinary tower shaped like a collection which are Samburu women’s neck decoration, scattered all over which keep 20,000 bottles of African the living areas. wine cool through a collected rainwater They come from system and solar-powered air one of the largest conditioning. collections of modern African art There are numerous other touches in the world. too that remind you that the governing ethic is not to take things out of the ecosystem for ever. Small wonder that the animals appreciate the retreat too. Segera has No two villas are alike but all are biggest, and the Segera selection is not had a single case of poaching in two furnished to the highest standards and striking in its mix sculpture, painting years and relies on its own community taste. Guests are encouraged to enjoy and artifact. Some are housed in guards and people to sound the alarm if the place as the word retreat suggests: what were once the stables, each door intruders come into the area. “a religious or spiritual term for time opening to another artist and another I saw innumerable elephant on a taken to reflect or meditate.” concept. private game drive in addition to the There are no organised daily game Segera’s Paddock room – you can dine ones that performed dusk and dawn drives, no bells sounding dinner. Guests downstairs and lounge upstairs – is, around the water hole in front of my can dine together if they want, but like most public areas, decorated with villa. Martial and Snake Eagles, Silver- privacy and serenity are respected above some of Zeitz’s personal art collection backed Jackals were highlights. all. It can take only 30 guests in the and eclectic antique collection, anything The Zoological Society of London eight villas, which is low-volume high- from an ancient hand-written bible to a is involved in projects to monitor cost tourism in action. 1920s alto saxophone. Cheetahs and wilddogs, whilst other The villas are enclosed behind a This is a wonderful space in which conservation organisations work natural fence that has been there for to sink into an armchair and look with Segera to monitor and protect decades and once protected cattle; at nightfall over Mount Kenya with lions, Grevy’s zebra and the rare inside the landscaped garden drips elephant, giraffe and zebra in the Patas monkey. Whilst Patas numbers bougainvillea and succulents and foreground. fluctuate, these have risen in numbers indigenous trees interspersed with a From somewhere, my memory since Segera’s active conservation salt-water pool and striking sculptures perhaps, I think I could hear Mozart’s efforts started and I didn’t get to see one from all over Africa. Zeitz’s collection of Clarinet Concerto in A playing scratchily but only because time was short. modern African art is one of the world’s on a wind-up phonograph.

SWARA JANAURY - MARCH 2015 69 From a prospective pastoralist to a convinced conservationist

Felix Patton Education Centre) and Murchison Falls is a rhino ecologist, who writes and broadcasts about National Park. Patrick says “however the species from Africa and interesting and enjoyable, this exposure Europe. He has an MSc in still did not point me towards a career Conservation Biology and a PhD based on research into in conservation”. individual rhino identification In 1991, Patrick became the first and social behaviour. He is a frequent contributor to SWARA. member of his family of five brothers and four sisters to be offered a place at a university and, with the help of a government scholarship, attended atrick Agaba is Project Manager Makerere University in Kampala for the Ugandan Conservation from where he graduated with a BA PFoundation. A Ugandan hailing in Geography and Political Science from the Ntungamo District in the in 1994. Typically there were no south west of the country and bordering jobs and the next year was spent , Patrick was born into a without employment. Then a friend family of pastoralists with no interest offered him a job in Rwanda, the in conservation. A large swamp in the home country of his mother. After six area ensured wildlife was abundant months, Patrick started working for with , wild pigs and herds the Rwanda Ministry of Rehabilitation, of buffaloes whose aggressive nature Reconstruction and Resettlement sometimes meant it was too dangerous registering Rwandan returnees and to get to school. Far from being a helping get assistance from Non- conservationist, Patrick says he “grew Governmental Organizations (NGO’s) up with the idea that wildlife were a for them to settle. A year on, fate problem and just good for the hunters”! Having done well at primary school, Patrick was offered a place at a nearby secondary school but he stubbornly wanted to go to another school, further away, that he had applied to. His father refused so he ended up working as a pastoralist with the family’s cattle. After a year, the headmaster of the local school persuaded him to try furthering his education and he never looked back. However, there was still no idea of working in conservation and a career in banking seemed most likely. With a glowing report, Patrick was sent to High School in Kampala where he chose to study Mathematics, Economics and Geography. The school had a wildlife club which met every week and went on field trips such as to Entebbe Zoo (now the Uganda Wildlife University graduation

70 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 2015 Top Left: The water hyacinth problem Below Left: Patrick the safari operator Top Right: Working with Uganda Wildlife Authority Below Right: Waterways Project patrol boat

work more closely in conservation and the opportunity came in 2006 when he was appointed Projects Officer at the NGO Uganda Conservation Foundation (UCF). At the time, UCF was a small but developing UK based intervened and Patrick was summoned stakeholders coordination and charity committed to conserving the back by his family to sort out the affairs operational support to the government wildlife of Uganda following years of of a dead cousin and so he was again of Uganda. civil war, political upheaval and heavy effectively unemployed. After some 7 years, the company poaching of wildlife. Its sister not- In May 1996, the chance came to join closed the unit and Patrick joined the for-profit company based in Kampala a United States Agency for International Concord International Travel Bureau was responsible for organising and Development (USAID) supported Limited, based in Kampala, as a tour administering the projects. In essence, project for the control and management guide for safaris within Uganda and UCF works closely with the Uganda of water hyacinth where the weed was Rwanda. As Patrick says “this was my Wildlife Authority (UWA) to provide threatening the ecological health of Lake first exposure to wildlife and I soon resources to assist in solving wildlife Victoria and thereby the livelihoods of grew to appreciate nature and how issues so, as Projects Officer, Patrick lakeshore communities that depended wonderful the natural resources of could “at last exercise my passion for on income from particularly fishing. Uganda are”. With his administration wildlife and conservation”. The work was undertaken by the US experience, Patrick was promoted One of the first projects that Patrick company Clean Lakes Inc., a specialist to assistant operations manager was, and still is, instrumental in in aquatic ecosystem restoration and responsible for the logistics of the developing is termed ‘the Waterways maintenance. As the local co-ordinator, safaris, strategy for improved marketing Project’ in the Queen Elizabeth Patrick was responsible for the office and drawing up the annual plan. Conservation Area (QECA) in the south management in Kampala controlling With an ever-increasing love for of Uganda. UWA needed support for finances, bank reconciliations, wildlife, Patrick became anxious to their anti-poaching measures – hippo

SWARASWARA JANUARY JANAURY - - MARCH MARCH 2015 71 Working with the communities and below working with the Uganda Conservation Foundation team.

poaching, bush meat trade, ivory with crop raiding elephants for which, trafficking and illegal fishing – and for under current Uganda legislation, community and tourism water safety there is no compensation leading to and rescue capability. the communities taking retaliatory UCF have provided much needed measures against the culprits. Patrick patrol boats, boat stations and training has led the project to build a 2 metre by for UWA rangers in the QECA. Patrick 2 metre trench and fencing in the valleys was involved in determining with UWA around communities which has kept where the problem areas were, sourcing the non-jumping wildlife (elephants materials for the marine stations and buffaloes in particular) away from and contracting and facilitating the human habitation. With the finance International Rescue Organisation and channelled through UWA, Patrick held latterly Poole Harbour Sea Survival to meetings with the community to ensure carry out the training programme. the funding was truly beneficial. He Due to this, the legitimate fishing further helped in creating a community/ is a natural ‘people person’ who has communities are beginning to see a park committee in the Park’s Ishasha developed great empathy for those small recovery in their catches and sector to coordinate communications, he works with and for. As he says fishing village economies are gradually agreements and partnerships. “working as I do at ground level with improving. Control of fishing in Dealing with people at all levels is UWA rangers and local communities restricted areas has also resulted in a key part of the job. One day Patrick has given me an understanding of fewer crocodiles, otters and birds being might be briefing UCF directors on the hardships that people have to go caught and drowned in the nets. In the progress of a project, the next in through and engendered a desire to help addition, Patrick has helped with the a meeting with UWA and the Park as best I can”. counting of hippos and so learned a lot Managers discussing the challenges Patrick was promoted to Project about their behaviour. The Waterways they are facing and how best to spend Manager with a wide range of Project has been extended into the available funds and then the next responsibilities including identifying, Murchison Falls Conservation Area. day making a presentation to a local developing and delivering projects and Queen Elizabeth National Park is community in how to avoid human- engaging appropriate stakeholders. one of the worst areas for problems wildlife conflict. Fortunately Patrick Project budgets have to be drawn up

72 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 2015 Working on elephant research.

and when approved monitored and supporting elephant anti-poaching skin disease that affects the Rothchilds reported on to the board of directors. operations in the delta area between giraffe in Murchison Falls NP while as a Finance for the projects requires Buligi and Pakwatch where poachers personal member of Nature Uganda he assisting with fund raising applications pose among the fishermen and then assists with bird censuses. and initiatives. UCF spending on set snares to catch the elephants. Says As to the future for wildlife in Uganda, projects in 2013 amounted to over Patrick “UWA resources in Murchison Patrick is very optimistic if peace and US$120,000 so requires careful have been stretched with rangers stability remain. He says “whilst wildlife management and accounting by Patrick. needed to guard the oil exploration populations are growing, we must “I really love my job because I love activities. The three new UCF funded always be vigilant as any insurgency can nature. When I am out in the wild I ranger posts offer much needed facilities do a lot of damage in a very short time.” am transformed by the behaviour of for rangers to help protect the elephants From no interest in, to a passion for, the animals. They have such a calming but we also need the government to put wildlife, Patrick Agaba is a fine example effect on me after the hustle and bustle pressure on consuming countries if we of how it is never too late to make a of the city”. are to win the war on poaching.” career in the world of conservation. Since 2012, UCF has been working Patrick assists with research For further details of the with UWA in Murchison Falls NP. work. Alongside UWA, he has been projects supported by UCF see the Patrick has been instrumental in investigating the cause of a serious website ugandacf.org.

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Dr Munir Virani perked up and said “I think those as the two hyenas began tearing into the directs raptor conservation programs in hyenas will bring down that wildebeest”. underside of the animal, its eyes wide Africa for The Peregrine Fund. He has a fervent passion for photography and Having never seen hyenas make a kill, I open, still alive while his tormentors fed has been working on birds of prey for was rather sceptical. on his living flesh. Overhead, vultures the last 20 years. For more information about his work, please visit: Clicking away in frenzy, we witnessed circled, preparing to do what they do www.peregrinefund.org and two hyena sauntering behind a best. So for those who think that hyenas www.munirvirani.com wildebeest. One managed to bite its left are mere scavengers, think again. They hind leg. The wildebeest fell on its front are without a doubt one of the most n our way out of the Maasai legs. Within seconds, the other hyena powerful and respected predators on the Mara Reserve last year, my 11- tore into the groin of the flaying victim. African continent. Oyear old son, Kaisaan suddenly The wildebeest was now on the ground

74 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 2015 PORTFOLIO

SWARA JANUARYJANAURY - MARCH 20152015 75 PORTFOLIO

76 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 2015 BOOK REVIEW

Culture Clash The fact that it has taken years to write By Rupert Watson is a reflection of how seriously the ISBN#978-9966-757-14-2 legal brain works to draw on available Published by Old Africa Books evidence. P.O. Box 2338 Naivasha, In other hands this touching story Kenya of what happens when cultures collide might have turned into something WARA contributor Rupert of a polemic; in Watson’s, it is so Watson – lawyer, author and dispassionately told and meticulously Snaturalist – is in print again, researched that the narrative needs no and we should be grateful. This time more embellishment that the feelings it is a true story revolving around the it arouses in the reader. “None of the collection of cattle in 1946 by a young details of this story is imagined, and if District Commissioner, Hugh Grant, a there are mistakes, they are probably a Maasai herder, Karambu Ole Sendeu, consequence of innacurate deductions and the herder’s beloved bullock. from the available evidence,” Watson Karambu speared Grant to death when writes, in a considered summary of the bullock was appropriated. The afterthoughts. SWARA readers, and young herder was subsequently hanged. anyone interested in Kenya’s colonial Watson first heard the story in the development, will enjoy and be moved 1970s and became fascinated by it; he by this slim book (151 pages). More researched it, interviewed those he please. could and travelled to the Loita Hills, where the fatal incident took place. Reviewed by Andy Hill

y first thought was ‘why do conservation status. Whilst this book we need another field guide focuses on Tanzania, it is still good Mto African mammals’? But on value for other countries in the region, closer scrutiny, this book is a welcome as most of the species occur there as addition to that genre. The book is well. What is also unusual is that the divided into three parts. The first part book includes marine accounts contains the introductory elements on of those species occurring off the East how to use the book, Tanzania’s major African coast. So if you are into Whale vegetation types and an overview of and Dolphin spotting, have this book the taxonomic order followed by the with you. The species account section book. The second part is the species ends with species comparison ‘spreads’ accounts of 111 terrestrial mammals which are also helpful in determining and 18 marine mammals. I think it which species you are looking at. The is this section which makes the book third part includes descriptions of stand out. It is the use of some very Tanzania’s National parks and major good photographs for every species protected areas and includes the that makes the difference. This is mammals described in the book that are particularly useful when looking at the likely to be seen there. differences between genet species and The copy of the book I have is mongoose species, for example. I am paperback but the covers are encased in not sure what the definition of larger is removable plastic, making it eminently A field guide to the Larger but the book starts in size terms with suitable to have with you in the field. Mammals of Tanzania hedgehogs and Elephant shrews, which The price is value for money. I would Charles Foley, Lara Foley, is a distinct plus. therefore recommend this book as a Alex Lobora, Daniela De Luca, Apart from the photographs, each valuable addition to your field guide MaurusMsuha, Tim Davenport & species account includes a description, collection, whether you are resident in Sarah Durant reference to similar species, the ecology the region or a visitor. Princeton University Press and behaviour, the distribution in £19.95 Tanzania and the population size and Reviewed by Nigel Hunter

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your bird sightings saved to up the species page, you will see the call the device that can then be button below the map and options to exported through email. play, rewind and automatically repeat • The ability to listen to the call if necessary. the calls for more than This application first appeared over a 1000 species. year ago, though that version had some For me though, it calls missing and a few other teething is the last feature that problems. This edition has remedied makes this application that and in addition has included a so desirable. Brian Finch section called introduction and help. has spent considerable The tips will help you familiarise time and effort collecting yourself with the use of this application. these calls, for which Tapping the introduction button, will we should be grateful. bring you useful information in regard Having them included to landscapes, seasonality, parts of a in this application, adds bird, a map of East Africa, a map of the an important dimension regions important bird areas and other to our recognising and useful information. identifying birds in This application is not restricted to the field. For example, Apple ipads, ipods and iphones which separating Cisticolas by of course give access to the Apple plumage can be tricky, but App Store. It can be downloaded onto once the calls are known, appropriate android and windows eGuide to Birds of East Africa life becomes much simpler. tablets and phones, by purchasing By Terry Stevenson and John This application can be used in real it from the Android Play Store, the Fanshawe with Brian Finch time to check if what you are hearing Windows Phone Store or the Windows An Application produced by: agrees with the call provided under that Store. mydigitalearth.com species. You can also use the compare For all those who enjoy birding in Price: USD 28.99 option to check two Cisticolas at the East Africa, whether as a resident or same time. a visitor, this application is a must for his is not just an electronic On opening the application, the front enhancing your birding experience. version of the hard copy book. page allows you to select the menu, I unquestionably recommend its TIt is an interactive companion which has 3 live options – a taxonomic purchase. It is excellent value for to the Birds of East Africa field guide. index; an alphabetic index; and a page money. For those who purchased the It covers Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, for making your list (the language original version, I understand a free Rwanda and Burundi. It is different to option is not active on my version). upgrade awaits you, so that you will also the book, because this application has On selecting the index, you can do a have the complete selection of calls, specific features that will enhance your quick search by typing what you are etc. Lastly my congratulations go to birding experience. These can be listed looking for. You can also activate the Terry Stevenson, John Fanshawe and as follows: compare option by hitting the small Brian Finch in conjunction with my circle opposite bird, but remember to digitalearth for producing this great • The ability to have Hi-res images, deactivate after doing your comparison, Application. distribution maps and detailed by removing the tick in the circle when text descriptions of over 1300 bird you return to the index list. On bringing Reviewed by Nigel Hunter species, which can be expanded to fill the entire width of the screen in portrait and landscape. • The ability to view the Bird Index All books reviewed by SWARA are usually available at The by Common or Scientific bird Souk (Karen), the Text Book Centre (various Malls) and names either alphabetically or Bookstop (Yaya Centre). taxonomically. • The ability to use the option “Bird Compare” that allows you to If you have a book for review please send it to: compare two birds on the same The Editor SWARA Magazine P.O. Box 20110 - 00200 screen. Nairobi, Kenya. • A personal bird list that stores

78 SWARA JANUARY - MARCH 2015 REAR WINDOW

A tale of a tusk - with a happy ending

By Giovanna Ghirardello Adriano and Giovanna Ghirardello live in Malindi, Kenya and are retired. They founded Gaia Italy onlus Assocation to help communities along the Coast and have built an orphanage in Pumwani in the Magarini District. They have also built six watering holes in Tsavo East. They spend their spare time in the game parks, mainly observing their beloved elephants. They can be reached on: [email protected]

very weekend my husband Adriano and I jump into our Ewhite pickup truck and head for Tsavo East. The vehicle is so covered in red Tsavo soil that even the elephants recognize it. Elephants are our biggest passion. Entering Sala Gate it is like going home. After we cross, the rest of the world no longer exists for us. We sit and watch elephants for hours. I am unable to stop taking pictures. With my zoom i also try to check on their health; their tusks, their legs, with very long tusks, their ears, their trunks. I have therefore some with wounded accumulated over 20,000 photos of or cut trunks, and elephants alone and this allows me to others with infected recognize them as soon as we spot them. or broken legs which Their images are impressed both on my have since calcified. eyes and in my photos. For each of the latter, I have photographed everything: from there is a story to tell healthy elephants, majestic ones, others and for all of these we have asked for help. Top Right: Adriano & Giovanna at Mbololo Sadly for the elephants River, Tsavo East. whose trunks have Middle: Elephant with ingrown tusk – near been cut, we could Aruba, Tsavo East. not do much: we were Below: Elephant with infected leg from told that they were arrow poisoning. probably trying to raid crops and the village So deep is our love of elephants that people tried to scare them away by we financed the construction of six chopping at their trunks. water holes; five near the Pipeline from But there are stories with happy Mzima Springs, in collaboration with endings, rather than severed trunks: Friends of Tsavo, and one just after the Near Aruba Lodge, we spotted an Bachuma Gate in collaboration with elephant with a very severe infection in KWS. Water is life, for man and for his leg. We immediately informed KWS, beast. marking the area with a white plastic On April 22, 2013, while observing bag, since we had nothing else with us. one of the herds enjoying one of the KWS arrived within a few hours and waterholes, one elephant left the group managed to treat the infection and thus and slowly walked towards our car. save the animal from a slow and painful My husband said “Giovanna look! This death. elephant has a problem”.

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returned to Tsavo and put these posters everywhere, especially at the Sala, Bachuma and Voi gates. The hotels and lodges and the safari drivers were given copies to display. We stopped passing cars and showed them photos of the elephant, and asked the visitors to call us if they happened to see it. Two unforgettable days later, there were over 100 posters distributed. Sadly we had to go back to Italy for about a month, but our thoughts were always with our elephant with the ingrowing tusk, and we could not wait to return. At the beginning of July, Antonella received a message on Facebook from a Dutch vet who sent her some very special photos. The elephant was found near Satao. KWS and the Sheldrick staff tranquilised it and cut off the end of the ingrowing tusk. The tusk had already penetrated just below the eye by 10-12 cm, causing a deep wound. Top: Operating the elephant with We don’t know how to personally ingrown tusk. thank the vet who by now had Below: Poster with note from vet at returned to Europe. We only know his Sala Gate. name Henk Beumer of Wildlife Care International. We would like to meet him and hug him and hope that destiny will make our paths cross. We want to communicate with each other. “We know everything about the operation; will do everything to help you” was how he was tranquilised, how did he our answer. It seemed as if he had wake up, how is he and how much understood us as he slowly turned antibiotics was he given. We want to and walked back to his herd. know everything because this elephant We immediately informed KWS is part of us and we will never forget and the David Sheldrick Wildlife him. Centre in Nairobi, giving them the We departed immediately for Tsavo necessary details and location. They accompanied by Antonella to find him all assured us that assistance was on again. At the Sala gate, we were met its way. by joyous personnel. Our Poster is We returned to Malindi and still there, the colours faded, but with started sending out photos of the a hand written note on it from the elephant by email. The Sheldrick vet who carried out the operation: “It centre confirmed that its search has been treated. He now has a clean Through my lens I could see that one of team was already on the job. I bill of health. We sat and cried with the elephant’s tusks was ingrowing and had shared the photos with our friend happiness”. already penetrated the skin under his eye. Antonella, who posted them on the In spite of looking, we have not been The elephant came close to try to draw Internet and Facebook. I prepared able to find our elephant but others our attention to a very serious and painful posters with the elephant’s photo have seen him and told us he is well and problem. I put down my camera and and my husband Adriano’s cell the huge hole under his eye has nearly looked at him straight in the eyes. He was phone number. I had 100 copies closed. We wish him well and pray that asking for our help! It was not just the eye made of this WANTED poster he never comes across heartless humans contact but it was as if our brains were asking anyone who saw the stricken armed with the poachers’ guns. on the same wavelength, allowing us to beast to get in touch with us. We

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