Jamaican Lace-Bark

Published by Maney Publishing (c) Pasold Research Fund stretched andteasedtoformanaturallace. it differsmarkedlyfromallothertropicalbarkcloths, inthatitisnotbeatenbutinstead ( platform onwhichfuturestudiesengagingwithJamaica’spastcanbuild. botany. Ratherthanputtingforwardsocialorhistoricalanalyses,ithopestopresenta This paperpresentsahistoryofJamaicanlace-barkfromtheperspectiveeconomic Introduction throughout theisland. and difficultiesinobtainingmarketinglace-bark,haveledtotheendofitsuse populations firstreportedataboutthistime.Onehundredyearslater,changingtastes 1880s, asmasstourismbeganinJamaica,probablyledtothedeclinelace-barktree outside CockpitCountry.Thedevelopmentofalarge-scalesouvenirindustryinthe community livinginCockpitCountry,andvarieduseoflesscertainscalebyJamaicans lace-bark usefordressandinotherareasofdailylifebyMaroons,anAfrican-Jamaican a naturallacetobeusedindressandcurios.Evidencesuggestsatleast300yearsof in Jamaicatomakeutilitarianobjectssuchaswhipsandbaskets,orwasteasedoutinto Botanic Gardens,Kew(Fig.1). 2009 onalace-barkbonnetintheEconomicBotany Collection(EBC),attheRoyal paper camefromEmilyBrennan’sundergraduateconservation project,carriedoutin histories ofJamaica,beginninginthelateseventeenth century.Thestimulusforthis and adiscussionofitsplace inJamaicandressduringtheeraofslavery. ﬁ Initial researchfoundaremarkablysmallbodyofliterature sincetheturnoftwenty- processed? Towhatextentarelace-barkitemsincollections representativeofitsuse? were thequalitiesofmaterialandwasittrulyutilitarian? Howwasitharvestedand which immediatelyraisedquestions.Whomadeitand whowouldhavewornit?What and EdwardsLong, known descriptionsbyeighteenth-century authorssuchasHansSloane,Patrick Browne aodRsac udLd21 DOI: 10.1179/0040496913Z.00000000030 © PasoldResearch FundLtd2013 The lace-barktree Textile History rst century;anotebybotanists atKew,abriefnoteinglobalsurveyofbarkcloth, Lagetta lagetto Lace-bark isaformofbarkclothmadefromtheinnerbarklace-barktree It becameclearthatwecould ﬁ Emily Brennan,Lori-AnnHarrisandMarkNesbitt Jamaican Lace-Bark:ItsHistoryand , 44 (2), 235–253,November2013 (Sw.) Nash)whichgrowsinJamaica,CubaandHispaniola.However, (Lagetta lagetto(Sw.)Nash) 4 throughuseofdigitalresources. Themostimportantoftheseisthe Uncertain Future Object Lesson 2 Thisisasophisticatedgarment,datingtoabout1860, ll thegapbetweentheserecent accountsandthewell- 1 Itsuseisdocumentedintheearliestnatural hasarobustinnerbarkwhichwasused 3

Published by Maney Publishing (c) Pasold Research Fund Cockpit Country,1,300square kilometresoccupiedbytheLeewardMaroons— oneof tree growsinsoil-lesscrevices. limestone forestthatgrows alongthekarstic, is madefrom barks ofseveralothergenerainthisfamilyareusedas aﬁ to lace-barksince1865. online archiveof Jamaican Lace-Bark 236 The botanicalnameofthelace-barktreeis The Lace-BarkTree museum andbotanicgardenstaff. great internationalexhibitions,theobjectsoncedisplayedinmuseums,andreportsby relating tothe‘exhibitionarycomplex’ofVictorianperiod:catalogues perceptions oflace-barkoutsideJamaica,particularlyinBritain.Herewehaveevidence the short-livedrevivalinitiativesof1980s.Wehavealsoinvestigatedusesand which endedinthe1960s,wewereabletovisitandinterviewseveralinvolved as survives.Althoughwehavenotspokentoanyoneinvolvedinlace-bark’sheyday, used lace-barkarehardtocomeby,butwehavegivenspecialattentionsuchevidence offers someinsightintolocalperceptionsoflace-bark.Detailswhomadeand in CockpitCountry. Although invariablycalledlace-barkinprintedsources, itistodayknownaswhitebark which wehaveexploredin detailelsewhere. metres high.Theecologyofthelace-barktreeisamajor determinantofitsavailability, Japan. Thelace-barktreeisnarrowandpyramidalin shape,andrelativelysmallat4–9 A signiﬁ cant partofthelimestoneforestinwestern partoftheislandlieswithin Daphne The Gleaner 7 Thegenus barkintheHimalayasandfrom 5 This,likebooksandreportsauthoredbyresidentsofJamaica, , todayJamaica’smajornewspaper,with2,623references Lagetta isintheThymelaeaceaefamily. 9 Itformspartofthesub-canopy ofthewet 10 mountainous,ridgesofthe island.The Lagetta lagetto bresource:forexample,paper Edgeworthia chrysantha (EBC 44939). Botanic Gardens,Kew Photograph: ©Royal 27 cm. Height (excludingribbons): decorated withstitching. is overlaid,ruchedand plant fibre.Thelace-bark moss andstripsofraw metal, cotton,silk,seeds, of materialsincluding bonnet ismadeofanarray custom-made mount.The after conservationona Fig . Lace-barkbonnet, . 1. (Sw.)Nash(Fig.2). 8 Theinner in 6

Published by Maney Publishing (c) Pasold Research Fund tions, whoaretoanextent autonomousfromtherestofJamaicansociety.Browne, dants ofthesefreedomﬁ inhabitants ofCockpitCountry, includingthemaintownofAccompong,are descen- historically andhadsigniﬁ resistance againstplantation slavery.Theirresistanceremainsextremelyimportant the freeAfrican-Jamaicancommunitiesthatcarriedout asustainedcampaignofarmed ghters andremainadynamic community withuniquetradi- cant effects onthepoliticalstabilityofcolony.Today’s Emily Brennan,Lori-AnnHarrisandMarkNesbitt Botanic Gardens,Kew. Trustees oftheRoyal © CopyrightTheBoardof (EBC 44946;seeFig.3). left isstillheldatKew The whipshownonthe extraction isontheright. branch showinglace in Kew’sMuseum.A ( showing lace-barktree Miscellany Botany andKewGarden Hooker’s Fig. Lagetto lagetta 2 PlateIVfrom 2. Journal of , ii (1850) ) specimens 237 Published by Maney Publishing (c) Pasold Research Fund Botanical DepartmentofJamaica: News Letter either youngertreesorless aggressiveharvestingtechniques. I. K.Sibleynotesthediminishing sizesoflace-barkpiecesin1960,indicatingthe useof In 1884,theWomen’sSelfHelpSocietynotedthat: the centralmountainousranges, butprimarilyintheformofsmallorimmature trees. from botanistsattheInstitute ofJamaicashowthatthetreeisstillwidespread within beyond CockpitCountry.Anaccountin rocks oftheBlueMountains.However,distributionlace-barktreesextendswell island didnothaveeasyaccesstolace-bark;thetreedoesgrowonmetamorphic munity. TheWindwardMaroonswholivedintheBlueMountainstoeastof It canbeassumedthatbothoftheseearlyhistoricalaccountsrefertotheMarooncom- interior andnorthsideparishes’. St. Elizabeth’s,onthesouthsideofislandandgenerallyinmountains is commoninthewoodsofparishesSt.John,Vere,Clarendon,Manchesterand author ofthe writes in1774that‘thewildNegroeshavemadeapparelofit,averydurablenature’. into differentformsofapparel,bythewildandrunawaynegroes’,whileEdwardLong .Ithasbeen,uponoccasions,made . common inthewoodsofVereandSt.Elizabeth’s. ‘occasional’ inthemostrecent Flora. used in1861 mon’ in1756andLongnotesitas‘commonthewoods’1774,samephrase between 1687and1689,describesitas‘ingreatplenty’,Brownebeing‘prettycom- coastal andurbansettlements. because ofitsinlandhabitat,wouldstillhaveneededtobetradedreached parishes wouldperhapshavebeenmoreaccessibleamongstthewiderpopulationbut, to therestofisland,asisdocumentedin1980s. largely inaccessibletooutsiders,soitislikelythatMarooncollectorsofbarktraded island. Hereitappearsthatlace-barkwascollectedandusedbyMaroons.Thearea of lace-barktreesclearlylaywithintheMaroonterritoryinwesternpart Jamaican Lace-Bark 238 indicate thatnewtreesarebeingplanted. constantly cutdownforfencingpurposesaswellthe bark,andthereisnothingto as thisbarkisextensivelyusedinarticlessoldbytheSociety. Lacebarktreesarebeing The growingscarcityoflacehasbeenarousingtheserious attentionofthecommittee, valuable andinterestingtree. formed forthepurposeofprovidingseedsinfuturethose whomaywishtogrowthis ful ifanyonewillsendhimseedsofthistree,inorderthat asmallplantationmaybe any attemptatreplanting.TheDirectorofPublicGardensandPlantationswillbethank- It isfearedthatthistreewillsoonbecomeextinct,aslargenumbersarecutdownwithout used inlargequantitiesbyladiesfor‘Fernwork,’acharacteristicartproductofJamaica. The LaceBarkTreeprovidesaverybeautifulnaturallace,thebarkoftreewhichis The treeappearstohavebeenabundantinthepast.Sloane,residentJamaica The questionofdistributionisimportantinunderstandingsupply.Amajorsource of8November1890carriesthefollowingcommunicationfrom Civil andNaturalHistoryofJamaica The Technologist 15 12 accountmentionedabove.

18 Herbariumcollectionsand recentsightrecords 16 The Technologist (1756),notesthat‘thetreeispretty 13 Lace-barkinthemoreeasterly of1861says:‘inJamaicait 14 17 However, Thetreeisdescribedas Gall’s Weekly 11 19

Published by Maney Publishing (c) Pasold Research Fund Harris) in2010.Referringtothe1960s–1980s,farmerssaidthatharvestingof Cockpit Country,wereinterviewedbytwooftheauthors(EmilyBrennanandLori-Ann to atleastfi form arhomboidalnet-likestructure,orlace(Fig.4).Thisstretchingexpandsthebark easily beseparatedintothinlayerswhicharepulledapartacrossthefi entire layersofinnerbarkwereseparated.Iffreshfromthetree,could portion andouterbarkremainedintact(Fig.3).Incontrast,whenusedasatextile, made fromstripsofmultiplelayersinnerbark;inthecasewhips,partwoody from objectswhichremainincollections. their work.Instead,werelyonscatteredhintsinliterature,interviews,photographyand harvested thematerialarethoseleastlikelytohavehadopportunitywriteabout into objects.Harvestingwouldhavetakenplacewelloffthebeatentrack.Thosewho sold andexhibited,littleisrecordedofhowlace-barkwasharvested,processedormade In contrasttotheabundantevidence,exploredlater,forhowlace-barksouvenirswere Harvesting below. increase inthevolumeoflace-barkusedlatenineteenthcentury;wediscussthis century, whichhasonlyacceleratedthroughthetwentiethcentury. report of1886documentsthevisibledisappearanceforestinlatenineteenth teenth centuryandthecurrentday.Firstly,deforestationingeneral;E.D.Hooper’s Several farmers,someofwhomwereMaroons,livinginAccompongandQuickstep, Lace-bark wasusedintwoforms.Utilitarianitemssuchaswhipsandcordagewere Two factorsmayhavebeenresponsibleforlace-bark’sdeclinebetweentheeigh- ve timesthewidthofunstretchedbark. Emily Brennan,Lori-AnnHarrisandMarkNesbitt Botanic Gardens,Kew. Photographs: ©Royal 60 cm. 44946(2) 49cm;EBC44956 EBC 44946(1)43cm; bottom: EBC7599636cm; handle, readingfromtopto whip tails.Lengthof inner barktwistedintothe removed andtheremaining bark havebeenpartially woody portionandouter lace-bark tree.Theinner made frombranchesofthe Fig. 3 Lace-barkwhips 3. 20 Secondly,alikely bre orientationto 239 Published by Maney Publishing (c) Pasold Research Fund vesters (usuallymen)orthe makers(usuallywomen)(Figs6a,6band6c).Cecile Brown, In the1980s,weweretold thatstretchingofthebarkcouldbedoneeitherby the har- Manufacture it couldnotberenewedquickly’,supplyfortwinemanufacturemet. was ‘notplentifulineverydistrictandthetreetookascoreofyearstomaturesothat fi of thewholetree,orbarkingtree to obtainthesemightbestripallofthebarkfrom atrunk,thusrequiringthefelling correspondingly largewidthsandlengthsofbarkwould berequiredandtheeasiestway of lace,againsmallbrancheswouldbesatisfactory. However, forlargepiecesoflace, be cutupintolongitudinalstrips,requiringlengthrather thanwidth.Forsmallpieces diameter oftheportiontreetobeused)wouldhave beenlessimportantasitwasto as bridlesorcordage,thewidthoforiginalpiece ofinnerbark(andthereforethe techniques. Forutilitarianobjectsmadefromrelatively narrowstripsofinnerbark,such (Fig. 3). from theintactbranchandwhipbraidedinnerbarkwithwoodremoved were madebycuttingbranchesabout2cmindiameter,withthehandlebeingformed Sometimes verynarrowbrancheswereused.Forexample,asmentionedabove,whips and 8cmindiametercouldeitherrepresentbranches,orthetrunksofyoungtrees. widely soldassouvenirs,isinconclusive(Fig.5).Thepiecesexaminedrangebetween5 as wellforfencing. above, in1884theWomen’sSelfHelpSocietynotedimpactofcuttingtreesforlace to beharvested.Historicalsourcesalsosuggestthatwholetreeswerefelled.Asnoted nation withtheabilitytocarryoutheavymanualwork,especiallyifwholetreewas and ofthelocationtreeswasnecessarytoharvestlace-barkeffi bark waseitherbybranchoraswholetrees.Theyaddedthatknowledgeoftheforest Jamaican Lace-Bark 240 bre forrope,the We speculatethatdifferentusesoflace-barkmayhave requireddifferentharvesting The evidenceprovidedbydemonstrationpiecesshowinglace-barkextraction,and Journal oftheJamaicanAgriculturalSociety 21 In1916,inresponsetoaletteradvocatingtheuseoflace-bark in situ andthereforekillingit. Brennan. Photograph: ©Emily evident. structure ofthematerialis 2010. Therhomboidal Cockpit Country,March during fieldworkin lace-bark samplecollected Fig. notedthat,aslace-bark 4 Close-upof 4. ciently, incombi- 22 Published by Maney Publishing (c) Pasold Research Fund Photographs: ©Lori-AnnHarris. The multiplelayersarerevealed togetherwithadramaticexpansioninwidth. stretching theinnerbarkof lace-barktree;(c)thesamepieceofafterstretching. (a) DerrickLennonharvesting lace-bark;(b)IrisLennon(motherofDerrick)about to begin Fig. © TheFieldMuseumofNaturalHistory. London, c.1920–1930. Fig. 6 Lace-barkharvestinginCockpitCountrywiththe Lennonfamily,March2010. 6. Branchshowinglaceproduction technique;soldatSelfridge’sdepartmentstore, 5. Emily Brennan,Lori-AnnHarrisandMarkNesbitt 241 Published by Maney Publishing (c) Pasold Research Fund lace-bark isbySirHansSloane,basedonhisstayin the 1680s: material. Thisisreinforcedbyseveralreferencestoits suitabilityforlaundering. should notbeinterpretedasmeaningthatthelace was notalsoapracticalclothing seem tohavebeenmadeforuse.Theapparentfl and itemssuchastheKewbonnet(Fig.1)SaffronWaldendress9)cap in dress(thusaslaceratherthantougherbark)whichspecifi designed tobehandled.However,therearefrequentreferencestheuseoflace-bark rian souvenirs,suchasdoiliesandfans,thematerialisclearlyornamentalwasnot nineteenth-century specimens.Itishardertojudgethedurabilityoflace.InVicto- material, aswitnessedbyitsuseinwhips,andthegoodconditionofsurviving in theEBCartefacts(Figs1,7and8).Theunmodifi may thenbedyedorstained,ruched,overlaid,andstitchedfordecorationasevidenced be soakedorrinsedouttothedesireddegree. whitened throughsunbleaching.Lace-barkhasnaturallyoccurringstiffenerswhichcan stretched, thematerialcanbesoftenedthroughsoakingorwashingwithsoap,and but, ifthebarkhasbeendried,thenboilingorsoakingisrequiredtoenablethis.Once the materialstretchedorinitsbarkform. a craftuseroflace-barkinKingston,confi Jamaican Lace-Bark 242 slavery andsugarproductionhadbeenestablished. British forcesin1655andwasundertheirfullcontrol by1660.Bythe1690s,large-scale Jamaica wasalightlypopulatedSpanishcolonyfrom 1509to1655.Itwascapturedby Use duringSlavery,1655–1837 It canthenbeusedasanylaceornet,beingremarkablystrongyetsoft.Ifdesired,it Freshly harvestedinnerbarkcanbeseparatedfromthecorkyouterbyhand, the FilamentsorThreadsthereof leavingsomerhomboidalInterstices,greaterorsmaller some Length,clear’dofits outward Cuticula,orBark,andextendedbytheFingers, about twelveCoats,Layers,or Tunicles,appearingwhiteandsolid,whichifcutofffor Lageto . . . Whatismoststrangeinthis Tree is,thattheinwardbarkismadeupof . . . rmed thatinthe1980sshewouldeitherreceive Kew (EBC67770). Photograph: ©RoyalBotanicGardens, been worn.Length:28cm. coconut bark.Theyappearnevertohave and thesolesofslippersaremade c. 1827.Thelace-barkisoverlaidonsilk Fig. imsiness ofmanylace-barksouvenirs 7 Apairoflace-barkslippers, 7. 24 ed innerbarkisclearl y adurable Thefi cally refertoitsdurability, rst detaileddescriptionof 23 Published by Maney Publishing (c) Pasold Research Fund of thelace-barkplant. famous portraitofSirHansSloanebyStephenSlaughtershowshimholdingadrawing or garmentofit;beingtheentireinnerbarkatree’. present incollectionstheBritishIsles,includingMuseum:‘Hereisashirt also cataloguedinBullock’s with Maroons. of theisland,andtherefore thepotentialforsharingofpre-Columbianplant uses seventeenth centuryofcoexistence ofMaroonsandthepre-ColumbianTaínooccupants also raisesthequestionof originoflace-barkuse.Thereisincreasingevidence inthe in viewoftheco-locationLeewardMaroonsand thelace-barktree.However,this As mentionedpreviously,theassociationoflace-bark usewithMaroonsisunsurprising and SloanegaveapiecetoRalphThoresbyforhismuseuminLeeds. Britain; apieceoflaceisattachedtotheherbariumspecimeninSloaneHerbarium Sloane’s collectionsoflace-barkwereprobablythefi from Cook’svoyages. after thesaleofcollectionin1786,intoAlexanderShaw’scompilationtapacloth Lace-bark intheDuchessofPortland’sfamouscollectionLondonfounditsway, 1814: writing intheeighteenthcentury,seemtoreferitsusebyMaroons,asdoesLunan Society in1835,to‘ascertaintheirapplicabilityandvaluetheartsofthiscountry’. tion werefromWestAfrica, aregionwithhistoryofbarkclothuse,albeit beaten Luidas, anInland,mountainous,Plantation,wheretheseTreesgrewingreatPlenty. Sir ThomasLynchGovernorofJamaica.IhaditfromMr.Leming,whosentme Linen; andthatKingCharlestheSecondhadaCravatmadeofthispresentedtohimby perceive theDifference.Iwastoldlikewise,thatitwouldbearwashingwellasother for MenandWomen,unlessoneknowthemwelllookattentively,hewillnot so much,thatinScarcityithasbeenmadeuseoflieuthemforMourningLinenboth Branch fromwhichtheBarksoextendedwascut.ThisimitatesLinens,Gause,orLace, Muslin, inLengthandBreadthproportionabletotheCircumferenceof according totheDimensionsyouextenditto,formaWebnotunlikeGause,Lace,orthin work itintocables,andtheIndiansemployinavariety of differentfabrics. common usetowhichitisatpresentappliedrope-making. TheSpaniardsaresaidto perhaps paper.Thewildnegroeshavemadeapparelwithit ofaverydurablenature.The the bestartificiallace.Thereisnodoubtbutveryfineclothes mightbemadewithit,and well, withcommonsoap,orthecuratoeandacquires adegreeofwhitenessequalto stretched tothesunshine,andsprinkleitfrequentlywithwater. Itbearswashingextremel y with it;inordertobleachit,afterbeingdrawnoutasmuch asitwillbear,theyexpose of theislandareextremelydexterousinmakingcaps,ruffles,andcompletesuitslace reticulum, resemblingfinelacesonearlyastobescarcelydistinguishedfromit.Theladies mentous lamina,which,beingsoakedinwater,maybedrawnoutbythefingersintoa The innerbarkisofafinetexture,verytough,anddivisibleintonumberthinfila- How widelyusedwaslace-barkinpre-emancipationJamaica?BrowneandLong, 33 Atthesametime,majority ofslavesarrivingafterBritishoccupa- 30 27 AdressandcapmadeofthematerialwereputbeforeArts Bytheendofeighteenthcentury,lace-barkwascommonly London MuseumandPantherion Emily Brennan,Lori-AnnHarrisandMarkNesbitt rt scientifi rst 28 Asampleofthematerialwas c specimenstoreach catalogueof1813. 26 Intriguingly,the 32

25 243 31 29

Published by Maney Publishing (c) Pasold Research Fund between 1880and1925. bark-cloth andlace-bark’. that wasmaintainedandnurturedinJamaicabyAfricanslavestheproductionof Jamaica duringthecolonialera. a stretchedlacesubstitutewouldhavegrownoutoftheamalgamationinfl everyday lifeinJamaica.Usesincludeharnessesandcurtains, During theVictorianperiodtherearemanyreferencestolace-barkincontextof Emancipation toIndependence,1838–1962 for cloth’. .Itsfi . noted asbeing‘usedbythenativesforaprons,collars,caps. curatoe-fi that somewomenworeoutfi century, thatMaroonwomen‘madelaceblousesandfrillsfordressesskirts, visit tosuchashop: curios andsouvenirs,not items ofeverydayuse.Achildren’sbook1883features a The JamaicaSouvenirand CurioStoreandJamaicaCurios),clientelewere seeking robes, denced bythegiftofalace-barksuittoCharlesII British settlersadoptedlace-barkasregularwear,butitwasclearlyappreciated,evi- role oflace-barkinthedressenslavedremainsunclear.Wefoundnoevidencethat in whichlace-barkappearsonlineauctionhouses today. include lampshadesanddecoratedsouvenirbooks.Doilies arethemostcommonform separated; andsheetsorpuffsofthematerial.Otherless commonitemsinthecollection tion withJamaicanfl doilies, eithersingularorgroupedamongleavesofdecorated booksoftenincombina- ing inantiqueshopstheearlytwenty-fi It isnotsurprisingthatthemajorityoflace-barkobjects incollectionsorthoseappear- preserved astheywerelesslikelytobehandled,andmore likelytobeshippedoverseas. bark objectsheldintheEBCaretypicalofthese. Souvenirs weremorelikelytobe barkcloth ratherthanlace-bark. of spreadinglayerslace’. by unravellingthebarkatlowerend,whichthusformedakindoftasselconsisting the branchformedhandle,andifitwasdesiredtoornamentlatter,done branch thewoodwasremoved,andbarktwistedintolash.Thelowerpartof negro-whips werecommonlymadeofthebranchesthistree,thus:aportion the material’shistory.In1850WilliamHookerwrotethat‘indaysofslavery emancipation, musthavebeencleartopurchasersandviewers,isagrimaspectof and remaininmuseumcollections(Fig.3).Theirassociationwithslavery,evenafter the Kewslippers.Lace-barkwhipswereacommonartefactinVictoriansouvenirshops, items ofclothingthatmadetheirwaytoBritain,includingtheSaffronWaldendressand Jamaican Lace-Bark 244 Steeve Buckridgehasarguedthat‘OneofthemostinterestingAfricandresscustoms Advertisements forshops selling lace-barkappearmostfrequentlyin At thesametime,anewusedevelopedinformof souvenirs.Manyofthelace- 40 partydresses bre skirt’. bre 43 Buckridgerecordedoralhistory,datingperhapstothelatenineteenth 44 ora (Fig.8);whips;fans;brancheswiththeinnerbarkpartially 41 andeveninggowns 46 Asthenamesofshops imply(includingTheCurioShop, 35 However,withscantyevidenceofsuchmaterialculture,the 37 ts consistingofalace-barkblouseandbanana-fi 34 Eitherway,itseemslikelythattheuseofbarkas rst centuryareofthistype.TheEBCincludes 42 madeoflace-bark.In1861lace-barkis 36 andtheexistenceofotherelaborate 45 38 kitchenstrainers, bres arealsoused The uences in uences

Gleaner bre or bre 39

Published by Maney Publishing (c) Pasold Research Fund processed or‘onthestick’. shop in2012bearsaprintedlabelstating: made inorphanages.Forexample,abookofVictorian doyleysonsaleatanantique in 1961probablycontributedtothedeclinelace-bark use.Lace-barkitemswerealso These thingscostagreatdealofmoney,butasruletheyareverydecorative’. ments madefromthelacebarktree,andfashionedwithfernspressedblossoms. lively Kingstonmarket,‘sheproducesdaintyd’oyleysandtable-centresﬁ Lace-bark curioswerealsosoldatmarketstalls,asrecordedinthis1906accountofthe by sellingcraftsforasmallcommissiononsales. Women’s SelfHelpSocietywasfoundedin1880to improvetheincomeofwomen tutions playedamajorroleinthemarketingandmanufacture oflace-barkcurios.The in the wayinwhichmakersobtainedlace-barkremainsobscure,‘wanted’advertisements Kingston salesroomandatmajorexhibitionsbothin Jamaicaandabroad. The are soldforthebenefitof OrphanageforGirlsofHalf-wayTree,Jamaica. CABBAGE Palm.TheFERNS arecollectedfromdifferentpartsofJamaica.TheDoyleys The bordersarecutoutof the Spatha,sheathoffruitMOUNTAIN- The Doyleysaremadeofthebark oftheLAGETTA-LINTEARIATree,growinginJamaica. In additiontoindividualmakers,suchasthemarket woman mentionedabove,insti- we aregoingtobuy!’ made ofthedagger-plant,andthesed’oy-d’oy-whatisit?-madeferns!Iwonderwhich And thisseed-work,andshellwork,theseflowersmadeoffish-scales, .‘Andtheselace-barkfans!’saidLeonora.‘Dolook! . .andcuriosities . ‘native products’. Harbour Street,andintoDeCordovaGall’s,withfullpermissiontolookatalltheir This seemedtobethenicestshop-visitingdoofany;itwassosplendidgodown

Gleaner sometimesrequesteditasarawmaterialin‘large quantities’, 47 50 Emily Brennan,Lori-AnnHarrisandMarkNesbitt Kew (EBC90405). Photograph: ©RoyalBotanicGardens, unknown. Diameter34cm. procera seed hairsofFrenchcotton, with decorationsoffernssurroundedby Fig 51 . Adoyleyonalace-barkground . 8. Italsopromotedthematerialina (Aiton)W.T.Aiton.Date 53 52 Calotropis Itsclosure ne orna- ne 48 49 While either 245 Published by Maney Publishing (c) Pasold Research Fund doyley, aprofi Princess Street,Edinburgh,butreportedlyfailedasa resultofthehighcosts:at2 become active.Tradeinlace-barkgoodswasestablished withMessrsR.ManieandSon, poem Victorian periodalsosawlace-barktakeasimilarpositioninliterature.E.C.Stedman’s and nineteenthcenturies.Parallelingtheproductionoffanciful,decorativeobjects, surprising thatitreachedsomanyprivateandpubliccollectionsintheeighteenth people whomadetheseobjectsand,assuch,isarichandunusualresource.Itnot bark, whilstcollectedforitsconnectiontonaturalhistory,alsoembodiestheJamaican sised andprioritisedthenatural,asabstractfromcultureCaribbeanpeople.Lace- Modest documentshow,fromSloaneonwards,collectorsintheCaribbeanhaveempha- the dutyweretobelowered. expressed theviewthataconsiderable amountoflace-barkcouldbesoldinAmerica if was inhibitedbycost.In 1894 theHonoraryCommissionerofJamaica,C.J. Ward, fi es. Lace-barkfeaturessporadically,forexampleasone ofmanylocalandintroduced Victorian Jamaica,partofasearchforalternativecropsdrivenbydecliningsugarpric- of theCaribbean,effectivelysummarisedbyWayneModest,whichsaw: The emphasisonthebotanicalnatureofobjectsalsofi government botanicaldepartmentthroughthesecondhalfofnineteenthcentury. rian period).TheaccuracyofthenamesisnotsurprisingasJamaicahadanactive Lagetta lintearia seen anumberofsouvenirobjectscorrectlylabelledwiththebotanicalnames(notethat The highqualityandquantityofbotanicalinformationonthelabelistypical:wehave by ThomasRoutledge,the Britishpapermaker,whoworkedwithawiderange offi produce awiderangeoffi Company wasformedin1854withplansfortwofactories inJamaicaandDemerarato is noevidenceofindustrialmanufacture.TheWest-India HempandGeneralFibre tions ofthegovernmentdepartmentconcernedwith botany andagriculture,there facture. However,lace-barkfeaturesverylittleinthe annualreportsandotherpublica- occasional callsforitsdevelopment,asinthecaseof the1916interestintwinemanu- Jamaican Lace-Bark 246 bre plantslistedby thegovernmentbotanistNathanielWilsonin1855. There wasapersistentinterestinthecommercialdevelopmentoffi zone —withinimperialimagination. framed asanaturalspace—sometimestheGardenofEdenandatothertimestorrid wild manroamed.Indeed,fromthemomentofEuropeancontact,Caribbeanhasbeen .theNewWorldasaplaceofcuriousandexotic,wherenatureabounded . . Fern-land t wouldnotbemadeonsale. includestheselines: wasthemostwidelyusedbotanicalnameforlace-barkinVicto- bres, includinglace-bark. 59 For infairy-landwebe! Shot withthecocuya’sray,— Filmy bride-veilsofitsspray, Laboring elvesatstarlightweave Here onthelagettatree ThecollectionsatKewinclude experimentalpapermade 54

58 Furtherevidencesuggests that globaltrade 55 57 TheCompanyappearsnottohave ts wellwithacolonialview bre plantsin 56 Thereare s per bre Published by Maney Publishing (c) Pasold Research Fund nally andexternally,fewhotels. century. Theislandhadareputationforpoorhealth,transportconnections,inter- may havebeenonedriver.FewtouristscametoJamaicainmostofthenineteenth through thesystematicandlarge-scaleproductionofdecorativeitems.Externaltourism the repertoireofpapermakingplants. plants fromaroundtheworld.Lace-barkwasoneofmanyspeciesthatfailedtoenter bark puffs’. and whips.Wehavereadyforshipment250dozenlace-barkwhips400lace- Fair; therewasnothingmoreindemandattheWorld’sFairthanourlace-barkpuffs were forsale.AreportontheChicagoFairof1893records:‘TospectatorsatWorld’s a showtobesponsored by Cunard. As lateas1958,theTourist BoardOffi The LastDaysofLace-Bark, 1960s–1980s are biasedtowardsobjectsproducedassouvenirs. bark asclothinginVictorianJamaica,showingthat, assuggested,museumcollections (Fig. 1)andacapattheEBC.Thisisincontrasttoabundant reportsoftheuselace- (Fig. 9)andcapatSaffronWaldenMuseum,Essex, detailedabove,andthebonnet but unconstructedform.Wehavefoundonlyafew items ofclothing:thechild’sdress the mostcommonoverall.Manycollectionsholdsamples ofthematerialinitsstretched withheld topreventemptydisplays. of theWomen’sSelfHelpSocietyJamaicawereextremelypopular,withsalesbeing familiar tohavearolein touristic promotion.Articlesin fi leaves andfl and hasinspectedthecuriousbeautifulsubstance:fewhaveseenspecimensof In 1850SirWilliamHookerwrotethat‘everyonehasheardofthe“JamaicaLace-Bark,” Lace-Bark Abroad advent ofsteamshipsontheroutefrommid-1880s. boats betweenBostonandJamaica,startedinthe1870sbecamelarge-scalewith British EmpireExhibitioninWembley1924. Chicago WorldFairof1893;theCoronationExhibition1911inLondon;and Exhibition of1878;theJamaicaInternational1891inKingston; They wereshownattheInternationalExhibitionof1862,London;ParisUniversal even widerexposureasaresultoftheirregulardisplayatinternationalexhibitions. Sydney, TrinidadandSriLanka. distributed intheVictorianperiod,withtreesrecordedatbotanicgardensNewYork, half ofthenineteenthcenturydiscussedabove.Thelivingplantalsobecamewidely nently introducedinthelatterstatetoEuropetillyear1844’. century origin. ts withthesignifi It isclearthatlace-barkproductionhadgreatlyincreasedbytheendof1880s Beginning withtheGreatExhibitionof1851inLondon,lace-barkproductsreceived The lace-barkobjectsheldinmanymuseumcollections aremainlyofnineteenth- 63 owers, stillfewerhaveseenthelivingplant,norwasit,webelieve,perma- AttheStJohn’sExhibitof1902inNewBrunswick,Canada,displays 65 Doyliesarethemostcommontextileitem,withlace-bark whipsbeing cant fl cant ow oflace-barkspecimensintocollectionsbeforethesecond Emily Brennan,Lori-AnnHarrisandMarkNesbitt 64 60 However,regularpassengertransportonbanana ce suppliedlace-barktobemadeintoadress for 66 Thisindicatesthatlace-bark wassuffi 62 Exhibitswerenotonlyforshow;some The Gleaner 61 Thisfamiliarity fromthe1960s ciently 247 Published by Maney Publishing (c) Pasold Research Fund to supportsomepeople’slivelihoods. also statedthat,priortothis, notablyinthe1960s,lace-barkproductionwassuffi River andNewMarketby membersofhiscommunityduringthe1970sand1980s. He Accompong Marooncolonel recalledtherawmaterialbeingsoldatmarketin Black talk ofplantationsanda lace-bark factory,butnothingevercameofit.A former bark inthe1980sandsellingittocraftworkerselsewhere inJamaica.Theyremembered 1983 near Quickstep,alsoinCockpitCountry,waslisted asasupplieroflace-barkinthe it isnotusedtoday(2010).BernardLennon,aformer traderandnowafarmerfrom 1960s–1980s forutilitarianobjectssuchasrope,baskets, matsandhammocks,butthat made fromlace-barkharvestedinandboughtsuppliers inCockpitCountry. the forestandstaythereforafewdaysatleast’; refer tothedeclineoflace-barkproduction,notingin1960,‘menhavegooutinto Jamaican Lace-Bark 248 ries. as wellsupportnetworksandtradeopportunities including exhibitionsanddirecto- as the activitiesofThingsJamaican,whichprovidedadministrationservices,manualssuch crafts’ inthe1960s.TheJamaicangovernmentresponded1970sand1980sthrough termed alaboriousjobformen’. longer wanttostripthetreewhichproduceslace’ Marketing HintsforJamaicanCraft-Workers Maroon intervieweesinAccompongtoldusthatlace-bark hadbeenusedinthe This waspartofawiderpatternindeclinewhatcouldbetermed‘traditional 70 Manual Thisledtoarevivalofinterestinlace-bark;forexample, withdecorativefl . In2010wevisitedhisfamilynearQuickstep.Theyrecalled harvestingthe 69 67 Essex (ImageNo.000491). Photograph: ©SaffronWaldenMuseum, Walden Museum,Essex(no.1833.59). 1833 byMarchionessCornwallis.Saffron Fig (whichlistedover500craft-workers), in1968‘inthesemoderndaysmenno . Lace-bark dress,donatedin . 9. 68 andalsoin1968‘itmightbe owers cient Published by Maney Publishing (c) Pasold Research Fund comments. and WayneModestformuch supportandinspirationtotwoanonymousrefereesfor useful Derrick Lennonandfamilyin Quickstep.WearealsogratefultoSteeveBuckridge,Eve Graves and CecileBrowneinKingston; LawrenceRowe,MarkWrightandTeronCawleyinAccompong; Trust. Weareverygratefultoall ourinterviewees,includingPeterandAnnabellaProudlock, Lee Binns Pasold ResearchFund,theWorshipfulCompanyofStationers andNewspaperMakerstheP&L support ofstaffattheInstituteJamaica(especiallyKeronCampbell) andfinancialsupportfromthe Fieldwork byLori-AnnHarrisandEmilyBrennancouldnot havetakenplacewithoutthepractical Acknowledgements high regardforthematerial. gifts, whethertoCharlesIIorQueenVictoria,suggeststhatBritishsocietyhada dress anddailylifeuntilthetwentiethcentury.Theuseoflace-barkgarmentsasprestige seventeenth centuryonward,and,inparticular,itsapparentimportanceMaroon prominence oflace-barkinthewritingstravellersandnaturalhistoriansfrom Today lace-barkisalargelyforgottenmaterial.Thisformsstrikingcontrastwiththe Conclusions business. which leftone-thirdofthepopulationlivinginsheltersandhadalong-termimpacton and ensuringregularsupplies,theimpactofHurricaneGilbertinSeptember1988, fetched fortherawmaterial;importanceofintermediariesinpromotinglace-bark diffi that datesbacktoatleastthe1960sandisperhapslinkedarrivalofplastics; up duringconversations:thewiderdeclineininterest‘traditionalcrafts’Jamaica tured locallyandsustainably,benefi materials andfi larly apttobeingreplacedbyplastics.Inthelasttwo decadesthishaschanged;plant a worldwidephenomenonthatbeganinthe1950s. Fibre productshavebeenparticu- in thedeclineoflace-barkmaybelosspopularity ofmaterialsmadefromplants, ulation oftreesunlesssustainableharvestingtechniques aredeveloped.Amajorfactor we thinkitwouldbediffi twentieth century,andthemorerecentthreattolace-barkhabitatsfrombauxitemining, appears tohavebeenmoderateandperfectlysustainableinthetwopreviouscenturies. in quantifyinglace-barkuse,itsusebyMaroonsandothercommunitiesdailylife the fi tourists inthe1880s,appearanceofmanycurioshopsKingstonatthistime,and souvenirs. Thecoincidenceintimingbetweenthearrivaloffi affordability. use byenslavedandfreeAfricansinJamaica,onthegroundsofitsaccessibility other African-JamaicansoutsideCockpitCountry,supportingBuckridge’scaseforits The reasonsforthedeclineinlace-barkusearecomplex.Fourfactorsregularlycame In viewoftheextensivedeforestationthathastakenplaceinJamaicaduring The latenineteenthcenturysawanimportantnewmarketforlace-barkascuriosand culties inharvesting,duetothelabourrequired,scarcityoftrees,andlowprice s rst reportofthetree’sdeclinein1890,isstriking.Despitealluncertainties bres arerecognisedasbeingsustainable, andifharvestedmanufac- cult tore-establishlace-barkharvestingfromtheexistingpop- 71 Scatteredreferencesshowthatlace-barkwasusedby Emily Brennan,Lori-AnnHarrisandMarkNesbitt cial toruralcommunitiesineconomicterms. rst steamshipsbearing 249 Published by Maney Publishing (c) Pasold Research Fund Lam. pp. 161–67. pp. 408–09. Gleaner IICA Jamaica,Inter-AmericanInstituteforCo-operationonAgriculture, 1983),p.33. list inThingsJamaican, p. 747. Lagetto’, au/album/albumview.aspx?itemID =846616&acmsid=0[Accessed:6October2012]. a corruptionoftheSpanishword Voyages ofCaptainCook Wales’s copyofA.Shaw, where. Thispacket,includingthewrapperanditscontents,areinStateLibraryofNewSouth century packetoflace-barkislabelledas‘AlligatorBark’,butwehavenotseenthisnameusedelse- Indies Press,2002),p.470.Thiswasalsoconfirmedinconversationsduringfieldwork.Aneighteenth- are onlineathttp://gleaner.newspaperarchive.com/[Accessed:21July2013]. References for theStudyofTextileArt,DesignandHistory (W. Wright)Nash;Thymelaeaceae]fromtheCaribbean’, 43D7F051065D4B878882C77CB5022753 &doc=13978&img=3735[Accessed:3July2013]. 16th TriennialPreprints,Lisbon,2011.Availablefrom:http://bh1.fpc.pt/winlib/winlibimg.aspx?skey= T. Osborne&J.Shipton,1756);E.Long, (London, 1725);P.Browne, p. 371;Long, and Doyal, Albert MemorialMuseum,2004). Jamaica, 1760 Jamaican Lace-Bark 250 2 1 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 E. BrennanandM.Nesbitt,‘IsJamaican lace-bark( name genus The F. G.CassidyandR.B.LePage, Other botanicalnamesformerlyusedfor lace-barkare Sloane, H. G. PearmanandH.Prendergast,‘Plantportraits;Itemsfromthelace-barktree[ E. Brennan,‘TheroleofconservationinincreasingawarenessJamaicanlacebark’,ICOM-CC L. PoleandS.Doyal, The Gleaner Anon., ‘BoardofManagement’, Report referenced inMarson,‘Women’sSelfHelpSociety’. Hooper, D. E. Personal communication, KeronCampbell,InstituteofJamaica,March2010. Adams, D. C. I. K.Sibley,‘Treesmeanmuchtomankind;surprise’, Report quotedinU.Marson,‘Women’sSelfHelpSociety; Endofaneradevotedservice’, Anon., ‘WorkoftheBotanicalDepartment’, Sloane, This becameapparentduringinterviewsinCockpitCountry,andisevidencedthesuppliers’ W. T.M.,‘Thelacebark,orgauzetree’, Browne, An areaoferodedlimestonewithfissures. , 10November1961. American Anthropologist Second Skin A VoyagetotheIslands The HistoryofJamaica – The CivilandNaturalHistoryofJamaica 1890 A VoyagetotheIslandsMadera,Barbados,Nieves,S.Christophers,andJamaica (sometimes (Kingston:UniversityoftheWestIndiesPress,2004). Report ontheForestsofJamaica Flowering PlantsofJamaica Lagetta Marketing HintsforJamaicanCraftWorkers ; S.Buckridge, (London:AlexanderShaw,1787).Availablefrom:http://acms.sl.nsw.gov. Second Skin:EverydayandSacredUsesofBarkWorldwide A CatalogueoftheDifferentSpecimensClothCollectedinThree wasderivedbythebotanistJussieufromlocalname‘lagetto’,itself The DailyGleaner The CivilandNaturalHistoryofJamaicainThreeParts , latigo xiv A DictionaryofJamaicanEnglish , ,

Journal oftheJamaicaAgricultural Society iii (1912),p.404. ii , meaningahorse-whip;W.R.Gerard,‘Originoftheword The LanguageofDress;ResistanceandAccommodationin , p.22;Browne, , pp.747–48,858. The HistoryofJamaica The Technologist ) wasfoundedin1834;mostissuesfrom1865totoday , xxxviii Gall’s WeeklyNewsLetter (Mona:UniversityoftheWestIndies,1972), (London:Waterlow,1886). Lagetta lagetto (2010–2011),pp.17–23. , The CivilandNaturalHistoryofJamaica Economic Botany

p. 371;Long, The Gleaner Daphne lagetto , , i (1861),pp.254–55. iii (Kingston:ThingsJamaicanand (London:T.Lowndes,1774). ) asustainablematerial?’, (Mona:UniversityoftheWest , 2July1960. The HistoryofJamaica Sw.and , liv , 8November1890. (2000),pp.4–6;Pole , xx Lagetta lintearia (Exeter:Royal Lagetta lagetto , no.5(1916), (London: Text: , The , iii ii , ,

Published by Maney Publishing (c) Pasold Research Fund 1883), p.45. Sampson ofMandeville,Manchester. Sherlock, 68HarbourStreet,Kingston;TheGemSupplyCo., 76HarbourStreet,Kingston;andA.E. Jamaica Curios,16KingStreet,Kingston;C.S.Chamberlin, 197 TowerStreet,Kingston;Levienand Street, 77bHarbourKingston;TheOldCuriosity Shop, 76.5HarbourStreet,Kingston; Depot andCurioEmporium,Kingston;TheJamaicaSouvenir andCurioStore,4doorsEastof Unique JewelryStore,Kingston;TheCurioShop,78Harbour Street,Kingston;TheJippiJappaHat Women’s SelfHelpSociety,8and28ChurchStreet,Kingston; TheFancyworkDepot,Kingston; /350815629854 [Accessed:27June2013]. co.uk/itm/JAMAICA-HAND-PAINTED-DOILIES-on-Lace-Bark-Palm-Spathe-in-a-protective-folder- 2011), pp.144–59. People: TheHistoricalArchaeologyofColonialJamaica:1 Jamaican archaeology’,inJ.A.Delle,M.W.HauserandD.V.Armstrongeds, Hortus Jamicensis London andWestminster (2000), pp.35–78. bodies inHansSloane’s“NaturalHistoryofJamaica”’, transferred fromBritishMuseumin1879:1736);K.D.Kriz,‘Curiosities,commodities,andtranslated Encyclopaedia ofJamaicanHeritage Willard N.Clute&Co.,1906). Infinitely Little Gleaner & Co.,1861),p.18. Piccadilly, London 47 46 45 44 43 33 32 49 48 24 23 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 Anon., ‘Wanted.Areliable party tosupplyLacebarkwhipsandpuffsinlargequantities’, Henderson, J. Humphreys, J. Examples include:S.J.RonitoattheCurloRoom Hotel,Titchfield;TheLadyMusgrave For example,doiliesregularly appearforsaleoneBay;see,example,http://www.ebay. Buckridge, Squier, G. E. W. J.HookerandSmith,‘Tab4502’, Sloane, Buckridge, Doyal, and Pole C. GoucherandK.Agorsah,‘Excavatingtherootsofresistance:significance ofMaroonsin Lunan, Anon., ‘SocietyofArts;Domesticmiscellany’, Shaw, Bullock, W. Anon., Portrait byStephenSlaughter, Thoresby, R. Sloane, For this,andmuchbackgroundonJamaicanhistoryculture,wehavedrawnO.Senior, Sloane, Anon., ‘Caroniagiveswintercruiseseasonvigorousstart’, ed., Clute W. Pouchet, A. F. Buckridge, Anon., ‘Thelacebark.Usedforlightharness’, , 25May1920. Catalogue oftheDifferentSpecimensCloth A CompaniontoallthePrincipalPlacesofCuriosityandEntertainmentinabout Hortus Jamicensis Voyage totheIslands Voyage totheIslands Voyage totheIslands (Portland:H.Hallet&Co.,1883),pp.123,350–51. Language ofDress Language ofDress Language ofDress , opno oteLno uemadPnhro .intheEgyptianTemple, . A CompaniontotheLondonMuseumandPantherion. (London:Whittingham&Rowland,1813),p.9. The AmericanBotanist,DevotedtoEconomicandEcologicalBotany Tropical Fibres:TheirProductionandEconomicExtraction Ducatus Leodiensis i Jamaica (StJagodelaVegaGazette,1814),p.436. Growing Up:AStoryofGirlswhich BoysmayRead The Universe;orWondersofCreation.InfinitelyGreatandthe Second Skin (London:J.Drew,1789),p.180. (London:A.&C.Black,1906), pp.29–30. , i , p.436. , pp.43–44. , , , p.52. , p.50. , p.51. , (StAndrew:TwinGuinep,2003). Emily Brennan,Lori-AnnHarrisandMarkNesbitt ii ii ii , p.22. , p.22. , p.22;Long, (London:MauriceAtkins,1715),p.450. Sir HansSloane,Bt Curtis’s BotanicalMagazine Preston Chronicle The The HistoryofJamaica William andMaryQuarterly

Gleaner (Tuscaloosa:UniversityofAlabamaPress, , no.39. , NPG569(NationalPortraitGallery, The Gleaner , 16June1906. , 1211,14November1835. (London:Griffith&Farran, , lxxvi , 17October1958. , iii (NewYork:Scribner , pp.748;J.Lunan, (1850). Out ofMany,One , 3rdseries, , x (Joliet,Ill.: The lvii 251 ,

Published by Maney Publishing (c) Pasold Research Fund breadfruit fame)butitsoondied. Caribbean’, Lace-Bark [Accessed:6October2012]. 13 January1893. occasion ofhervisittoacraft centre in1983;personalcommunication,9March2010. Canada. Harvard UniversityHerbaria,Cambridge,MA;NewarkMuseum, USAandtheTextileMuseumof Institute ofJamaica,Kingston;FieldMuseumBotanyDepartment, Chicago;MuseumofVancouver; Museums ofScotland,Edinburgh;WorldMuseumLiverpool, NationalMuseumsofLiverpool; Museum, Essex;VictoriaandAlbertLondon;World CulturesDepartmentattheNational cloth); PittRiversMuseum,Oxford;RoyalCollection,Osborne House,IsleofWight;SaffronWalden Museum, Hancock,Huddersfield;HornimanLondon(withsomepiecesmisidentifiedastapa The Gleaner University ofPittsburghPress,1993). October 1899. Court atChicago’, 29 May1891;Anon.,‘TheJamaicaCourtatChicago’, Offices oftheRoyalCommission,1878),p.40;Anon.,‘InternationalexhibitionJamaica’, Exhibition atTheWhiteCity’, Francis, 1862),p.16;Anon., the SocietyofIndustry,Hanover,Jamaica)atInternationalExhibition1862 Descriptive CatalogueofArticlesExhibitedbytheRoyalSocietyArts,Jamaica(assisted Illustrated Catalogue;TheIndustryofallNations,1851 of Botany 18 June1988. continues inOchoRios’, showcase endsworldtourism meeting’, IICA Jamaica(Inter-AmericanInstituteforCo-operationon Agriculture),1983);Anon.,‘Cultural Jamaican Lace-Bark 252 52 51 50 71 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 70 69 E. Forbes,‘Essayofthevegetable kingdomasillustratedintheexhibition’, Hooker andSmith,‘Tab4502’.AlivingtreewasbroughttoKewin1793byWilliamBligh(of Taylor, F. F. Anon., ‘JamaicaattheFair’, Anon., ‘AmbassadorforJamaicaMrGalldoinggoodworkinEngland’, Intelligence’, ‘West-India Anon, N. Wilson,‘Ontheusefulvegetableproducts,especiallyfibres,ofJamaica’, Stedman, C. E. W. Modest,‘Wehavealwaysbeenmodern:museums,collections,andmodernityinthe for Offered Anon., ‘InternationalExhibitionJamaica’, Marson, ‘Women’sSelfHelpSociety’. Anon., ‘Tobuyinlargequantities lacebark,manufacturedoronthestick’, Cecile Brownrecallsmakingthelace-barkpartofanitemgiven toQueenElizabethIIonthe Anon., ‘Acountryman’sdiaryby“countrycousin”’, Sibley, ‘Treesmeanmuchtomankind;surprise’. Anon., ‘Caroniagiveswintercruiseseasonvigorous start’. Collections holdinglace-barkitemstodayincludeBagshaw Museum,Huddersfield;GreatNorth Anon., ‘TheJamaicaexhibitatSt.John’, I. K.Sibley,‘Jamaica’swondertree’, hns Jamaican, Things Sibley, ‘Jamaica’swondertree’. , vii Museum Anthropology , 4March1925. (1855),pp.335–40. sale at The Gleaner To HellwithParadise:AHistoryoftheJamaicanTouristIndustry Poems nowFirstCollected Marketing HintsforJamaicanCraftworkers http://www.rubylane.com/item/454213-TA071088/Antique-Victorian-Jamaican- The Gleaner Paris UniversalExhibition;CatalogueoftheBritishColonies , 26April1894. The Gleaner The Gleaner , xxxv The Anti-slaveryReporter , 24March1988;Anon.,‘Just beautiful things’, The Gleaner (2012),pp.85–96. The Gleaner , 4October1911;Anon.,‘TheWembleyExhibition’, (Boston:Houghton,Mifflin&Co.,1897),pp.174–80. , 5January1894. The Gleaner The Gleaner , 25June1982;Anon.,‘Craft exposition series The Gleaner , 12August1968. (London: GeorgeVirtue,1851),p.6;Anon., The Gleaner , 10March1902. , 29May1891;Anon.,‘TheJamaica (March1854),pp.69–71. , 26April1894;Anon.,‘Coronation (Kingston:ThingsJamaicanand , 1June1968. (London:Taylor& Hooker’s Journal The Gleaner The Art-Journal The Gleaner The Gleaner The Gleane r (Pittsburgh: (London: , 18 , , , Published by Maney Publishing (c) Pasold Research Fund museums intheBritishEmpire. ing theusesandhistoryofplantﬁ Gardens, Kewsince2006.Hisresearchinterestsfocusonthenineteenthcentury,includ- Mark Nesbitt research onJamaicanﬂ of Jamaica),assistinginmanagingtheNationalBotanicalCollectionsandconducting ously workedasAssistantBotanist,InstituteofJamaica(NaturalHistoryMuseum from theUniversityofWestIndies,specialisinginTerrestrialBiodiversity.Sheprevi- able managementofnaturalresources.SheobtainedaBScinEnvironmentalBiology ensuring operationalconformitywithenvironmentallegalframeworksandthesustain- Lori-Ann Harris Emily iscurrentlyworkingtowardsaresearchdegreeonbarkclothproduction. in TheArtsofAfrica,OceaniaandtheAmericasatUniversityEastAnglia, Economic BotanyCollection,RoyalBotanicGardens,Kew.FollowingaMastersDegree and carriedoutresearchintoJamaicanlace-barkaspartofherstudentprojectinthe sity CollegeLondon.EmilytrainedasaconservatoratCamberwellofArt, Emily Brennan hasbeenCuratoroftheEconomicBotanyCollection,RoyalBotanic is apostgraduatestudentintheDepartmentofAnthropology,Univer- currentlyworkswiththeUrbanDevelopmentCorporation(UDC) ora. Emily Brennan,Lori-AnnHarrisandMarkNesbitt bres, materia medica , andtherolesofbotany 253