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A Record of Mountain Adventure and Scien · C

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A Record of Mountain Adventure and Scien · C , THE • • • • • • A Record of Mountain Adventure • and Scien · c Observation ' .. • • .. ... • ... • - • • , • .. VOL. Lil May 1957 NO. 294 Pale• TW8NTY•ON• IBILLINOI , • ,.; • JUST PUBLISHED BY DENT • now 10 a By Geoffrey Winthrop Young, Geoffrey Sutton and Wilfrid Noyce With 16 pages of photographs, and end-paper map of Snowdonia EDITED BY WILfRin NOYCB 251. Geoffr~ Wintlirop Young is the ~t-!mown styJ!st of the .'old school ' of mountaJneers-his accounts of his ptoneer Alpme e1plo1ts before he lost a leg in World War I, is given in his book On High Hills, which is a mountain classic; Wilfrid Noyce, of the inter-war generation, reached the climax of his mountaineering career when he took part in the successful Everest expedition of 1953 which he dcscnbed in his book South Col; Geoffrey Sutton iJ a leading exponent of the most modem rock-tiger technique. After a topographical and factual introduction by the editor, Wilfrid Noyce, the book is divided into three parts; 'Genesis to Numbers' by G. Winthrop Young, in which he surveys the development of rock climb­ ing in N. Wales from its earliest beginnings to the early 1930's; 'The Greased Pole ' by Geoffrey Sutton, which describes the modem yean, and the startling developments of the Joe Brown school; ' The Wnter in Snowdonia' by Wjlfrid Noyce, in which the history of the subject is dealt mth. · OBTAINABLE AT ALL BOOKSELLERS from mhom a prospectus may be had, or from the Publishers J. M. Dent & Sons Ltd Bedford Strut lAndon WCa • • BOOKSELLERS * • Sold and Purchased • 27 CHANCER¥ LANE, LONDON, W.C.2 • (Phone: CHA.ncery 2787) • for Real Down-to-Earth C FORT • NEW SECONDII~N11 BOOKS ON MO IN AIJ', PARTS OF 1HE WORLD * Books on this subject always required to purchase • Francis Edwards Ltd., 83, Marylebone High LoDdoa, W.l • &tablish-td 100 y1ar1 TcL: WBLbcclt 9~21 Last ye41r, 8 world-wide expeditions chose Sea-Esta. On snow, ice and scree Sea-Esta Air beds meant warm comfor­ table sleep. Less than 4 lbs. in weight. Inflated in a minute. Twice tested, fully guaranteed. Strong repairable fabric and natural rubber (no synthe­ tics). Prices from 53/-. Sea-Bsta Pump • 9/9. From Sports Dealers and Camp­ ing Specialists or write to George MacLellan&Co. Ltd., Glasgow, N.W• • .. .. · THE AUSTRIAN - ALPINE CLlJB • • • ROCK Independent and Guided W • · and Cli•nti~ The Austrian .Alpine Club {Oesterreichischer Alpenverem) • known pre-war 88 the GerD18D and Austrian Alpine Club (DOEAV) traces its foundation back to the late 1860's. The / • Club's main function ia to provide members with such facilities as will help in developing mountain ~'climbing and ski-mountaineering; these include the· conatruction and upkeep o£ chalets, the maintenance: of marked routes, the provision of reduced-rate txausport to alpine centles, the • · o£ mountaineering counea and tours, the general • • supervision and control of the professional mo11»tain pides, etc. The Club now owns over 500 chalets throUghout the higher parts of the Austrian Alps. The average Chalet 3()....4() people. Meals and accommodation can easily be covered with 151. to 201. a day. Anybody may stay at these , but membeza liave first call on accommodation pay . ~ baJf for sleeping (about 6a. a bed or 21. 6tl. iD the • doranitory). • • ~ UDited Kingdom branch o£ the Club wu forn1ed in the Autumn of 1948 to help 'people here in planning and .rr ..fYAI~ holidays in Austria. For ihe Summer, the U.K. branch arranges reduced rate transport to Austria, waJkiug to1111 from hut to hut, as well as from alpine also rocAL an d Ice·trmn•ng• • • courses a1ld exped• 1tions, • an d 1uneranea• • • for independent JFUU clelaiz. of ihip and I1N currem programme of ocsif1iria ~Dill be 1e111 on requus • AUS,:-RIAN ALPINE CLUB {J¥pL AD 143 New Bona Sb:eet, Lonaoa, W.l Telephonea MAYfair 9885 fURl££N ··t'4 • , , For skiers, for climbers, for maids of the mountain generally this is the jacket. Ioo% nylon, reversible and lined \vith Astraka's breathtaking sheared nylon, it is available in green, brown or blue. Approximately I 9 Gns. e Unbelievably warm e Showerproof • e Lightweight e Mothproof • e Odourless e Non-inflammable e Washable 19-23 Wells Street · London · W 1 • MUSeum 4374-5 • a 1 y I M B I . for and many other similar expeditions Write or telephone us at Ashton-under-Lyne 1'614/7 or 3673/6 and we will supply by return of post. We are always pleased to offer technical advice. WILLIAM KENYON A 'ND SO.NS L TD HIGH QUALITY ROPES, CORDS AND TWINES DUKINFIELD · CHESHIRE NF34 •• 11 THE BRITISH- ~- ,~-· A 1\i E R I C A N KARAKORAM EXPEDITION USED I arn happy to report that. your Gn>nfell Cloth 1vindprooJ suits served u.s splendid(r. They 1vere very u:arru and certainly kept th e u·ind out :u:rll. M. F.. BA~ K S CA PTAI N R.M. EXPEI>ITIO~ LEAI>El( 2 5.000 ft. up u·irh peaks or 20,(100 .ft. in rite disrancl'. JUST ONE OF MANY EXPEDITIONS EQUIPPED IN' CLIMBING SUITS FROM REGD WritiJ for illustrated booklet to HAYTHORNTHWAITE & SONS LTD LODGE MILL, BURNLEY n2 •• •••• • • E. G. C. Warr on Flake Travene • • • is the basis of our unrivalled service to mountaineers of all grades from the hill scramblers to the "tiger". This experience enables us to offer the most suitable equipment at reasonable prices. Below tve give a few details of clothing & equipnlent taken from our new Climbing Equipment Catalogue, notv available post free. Karaabi••ers of approved types both screw and non-screw from 9s. to 16s. each. \Valst Le••g•l•s 20 ft. long Nylon 6s. 6d. Hemp Ss. 6d. Nylo11 Rttpe 100 ft. x 11 in. · circ. Full weight. £4 19s. Od. lee Axes Aschenbrenner Ladies' £3 Ss. Od. Gent's £3 7s. 6d. Ataoraks. Wind and rain proofed with large Kangaroo type zip pocket and two Skirt pockets. Single £2 19s. 6d. Double £4 10s. 6d. Over Tro11s.,rs to match Single Anorak £1 19s. 6d. To match Double Anorak £212s. 6d. Any of the above items can he sent on approval for 7 days without LATE CLOSING NIGHT obligation to purchase. FRIDAY 7 p.m. • • • • ·22-25 BURY PLACE, LONDON, W.C.I -• .• • • (opp. British Museum) Tel.: CHA 6996:7 18 CORPORATION ST., SHEFFIELD, 3 (off West Bar) Tel.: 207~0 IV• • • • Get the most for your money and get the most out of your holiday by going to SWITZERLAND this year. You'll .. love the glorious scenery and you '11 love the hotels that • for food and comfort cannot be bettered. And all at a price you can afford (Full board and lodging from 20/- a day inclusive). For about £25 your TRAVEL AGENT can arrange a complete 12-day all-in holiday that includes your fare from London. Talk it over with him to-day! Rest and Relax in The Country that offers best value for money For further information please apply to your TRAVEL AGE.NT or the Swiss Notional Tourist Office, 458 Strand, London, W.C.2. - · v • • • \ Leaflet 855 IAJ on request • ANN I ES LAND, GLASGOW, W.3 London Office: /5 Victoria Street, S. W.l • Vl • The British North Greenland Expeditiotz COMMANDER C. J. W. SIMPSON • The whole story of the great Arctic enterprise. • "Commander Simpson and his colleagues have set it all down in this long and impressive record . 0 • The whole contributes to the experience of the Services whose personnel took part .. 0 And yet it is so much more. Greenland may no longer be the place for a stumbling, numbed resolve. But nature there is still treacherous 0 •• This is still in essentials a record of man's endeavour." The Times, • ''This magnificent book is the most readable and inspiring account of Arctic exploration to appear since the war." Oxford Mail "The book is filled with extracts from the various members' accounts of their own particular journeys, excitements, and boredoms, all in more intimate detail than one expects from an official book, and in racy and very readable style." The Glasgow Herald 57 illustrations, 8 in full colour 37/6 net • The Publishers are HODDER AND STOUGHTON •• Vll A protective cream for mountaineers, skiers and those exposed to strong ultra-violet rays either direct from the sun or reflected off snow and ice. As used on the recent British Andean, Huagaruncho, and West Greenland Expeditions NORMAL. Non-,reasy. For altitudes up to 6,000 feet. 2s. 9d. per tube HIGH ALTITUDE. Greasy. For use over 6,000 feet and in severe conditions. 3s. 10d. per tube from oil Chemists or direct (postage 6d. extra) from SAVORY & MOORE L TO. 143 New Bond Street, London, W . 1 • By Appointment to H.M. The Queen, Chemists • - , • I I s I • ~Order f·rom - your Sports • r • Outfltter and insist )', • • 1 I • • I on { J ,111 ; I ,I • ; YLO I' I Climbin opes I • ••• Vlll the world's best soles and heels for climbers and mountaineers - the world over • • Commando soles and heels standard equipment for Commandos . 1940 Antarctic Expedition 1950 Greenland Expedition 1951 Korean Boot 1951 Mount Everest 1951 Himalayan Expedition 1952 Greenland Expedition 1952 Korean Boot 1953 and now British Commonwealth Transantarctic Expedition 1956/7 ..... •"" "•••t" ,.,•• ,.,..~~ . SOLES and HEELS ITSHIDE RUBBER CO. LTD • PETERSFIELD • HANTS • ENGLAND IT.-40 • IX 0 - IJV APPOI N'f M!.NT TO HEq MAJESTV TH ~ QUEEN TEN r AND ,.LACJ MAKEqs (SILVER & EDGINGTON. LTD.) Makers of the finest TENTS AND SLEEPING BAGS • • in the world Works: Showrooms: Ruxley Corner, 144/146, Shaftesbury Ave., Sidcup, Kent London, W.C.2 FOOtscray 6868 cov.
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