the Mountaineer ! •' 1963 Seattle, Washington the Mountaineer 196 3 Entered as second-class matter, April 8, 1922, at Post Office in Seattle, Wash., under the Act of March 3, 1879. Published monthly and semi-monthly during March and December by THE MOUNTAINEERS, P. 0. Box 122, Seattle II, Wash. Clubroom is at 523 Pike Street in Seattle. Subscription price is $4.00 per year. The Mountaineers To explore and study the mountains, forests, and watercourses of the Northwest; To gather into permanent form the history and traditions of this region; To preserve by the encouragement of protective legislation or otherwise the natural beauty of North­ west America; To make expeditions into these regions in fulfill­ ment of the above purposes; To encourage a spirit of good fellowship among all lovers of outdoor life. EDITORIAL STAFF Betty Manning, editor, Winifred Coleman, Nancy Miller, Marjorie Wilson The Mountaineers OFFICERS AND TRUSTEES Robert N. Latz, President Peggy Lawton, Secretary Arthur Bratsberg, Vice-President Edward H. Murray, Treasurer Alvin Randall Frank Fickeisen Ellen Brooker Roy A. Snider Leo Gallagher John Klos Peggy Lawton Leon Uziel Harvey Manning J. D. Cockrell (Tacoma) Art Huffine Qr. Representative) Jon Hisey (Everett) OFFICERS AND TRUSTEES: TACOMA BRANCH Nels Bjarke, Chairman Marge Goodman, Treasurer Mary Fries, Vice-Chairman Steve Garrett Jack Gallagher Qr. Representative) Bruce Galloway Myrtle Connelly George Munday Helen Sohlberg, Secretary OFFICERS: EVERETT BRANCH Larry Sebring, Chairman Glenda Bean, Secretary Gail Crummett, Treasurer COPYRIGHT 1963 BY THE MOUNTAINEERS The Mountaineer Climbing Code A climbing party of three is the minimum, unless adequate sup­ port is available from those who have knowledge that the climb is in progress. On crevassed glaciers, two rope teams are recom­ mended. Carry at all times the clothing, food and equipment necessary. Rope up on all exposed places and for all glacier travel. Keep the party together, and obey the leader or majority rule. Never climb beyond your ability and knowledge. Judgment will not be swayed by desire when choosing the route or turning back. Leave the trip schedule with a responsible person. Follow the precepts of sound mountaineering as set forth in Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills and the Manual of Ski Mountaineering. Deport ourselves at all times in a manner that will not reflect unfavorably upon our club or upon mountaineering. the Mountaineer 1963 Vol. 56, No. 4, March 1, 1963-0rganized 1906-Incorporated 1913 CONTENTS Telemarks, Sitzmarks, and Other Early Impressions, by Wolf Bauer . 9 Mountaineer Skiing, 1927-1933, by Fred Ball . 18 Some Recollections of My Early Days in Skiing, by Paul Shorrock . 26 Golden Days, by Art Wilson . 30 Boards Without Hordes, by Stella Degenhardt 37 First Aid for Poisonous Snake Bite, by James A. Wilkerson, M.D.. 43 No Fiasco on Mt. Ottarasko, by Margaret Dragseth . 49 The Pumpernickel Picket Outing (An Experiment in Snow Cave Engineering), by Tom Nicolina and Dan Hen- dricks . 57 Selkirks-1962, by Frank deSaussure 63 Recognized Charter Members . 72 Euarctos Americanus Observatus Est 75 Beach Rescue, by Theodore Carlson 80 Climbing Notes, Edited by Nancy Miller 84 Administration and Committee Reports 102 Committee Chairmen lll ILLUSTRATIONS Map of Silver Skis Race, by Dee M olenaar . 8 Pictures . 33, 34, 35, 36, 53, 54, 55, 56, 73, 74, 91, 92 Summit (14,410') Little Tahoma = TELEMARKS, SITZMARKS, AND OTHER EARLY IMPRESSIONS By WOLF BAUER The moment the term "memoirs" crept into our editor's re­ quest for contributing some "I-was-there" background notes on our Roaring Thirties in Northwest skiing, I began to realize that the jig was up. Clearly I was tagged and classified with the elders of the tribe whose memories must be tapped before they are lost in senility. This unhappy suspicion, however, began to fade somewhat as I strained to recall those exciting years of the Twenties and Thirties. It soon became obvious how right the editor might be, after all, for it is astounding how much trivia the mind recalls at the expense of facts and figures of value to others. Thus at the risk of offending my old skiing companions with important omissions while boring our younger schussboom­ ers and schneehaserl, let me ramble a bit about our ski-doings as seen from the happy-go-lucky eyes of a Bavarian teenager, experiencing the excitement of the ski explosions twice in two successive decades on two separate continents. Since memoirs inevitably begin with childhood impressions, I too may be justified to reach back that far on the defensive premise that what follows later is, in part, the result of earlier events. Certainly we kids in the Bavarian Alps who started our skiing in 1919 after the war were quite aware that graduating from oak sleds to skis opened up a new world to us. It had many practical advantages as well. No longer was it always necessary to walk the long road to school, for instance, as the buoyant skis allowed straight shortcuts across the fields, and many a flapping stocking yarn or bit of leather from our shorts marked the path of our efforts to beat the school bell over and through the barbed-wire fences. Only when the horse-drawn snowplow had to open the drifted road officially and belatedly 10 The Mountaineer did we dutifully walk or tie our sleds behind the plow, cherish­ ing the slow laborious pace. Many embarrassing situations were to tag my skiing days to come, as I must presently be forced to tell. But no more auspi­ cious start could be asked for than that innocent morning on the farm when, as was our custom, my dog Sascha and I sailed across the wind-crusted fields in pursuit of imaginary rabbits. This was ski-joring at its best, with me hanging on to his collar as we swept along at full tilt in futile chase. Negotiating a wire fence-almost-I found myself upside down unable to reach my harness for release, while a rabbit, a real one this time, upheld Sascha's faltering faith in the true purpose of this ski-joring sport. Only this time, with me in the ditch, he had at last a sporting chance. It seemed an eternity before his later return and barking attracted rescue help. Our skis were heavy and long, an economical way for parents to meet the growth situation. Flat toe irons were simply passed through burned-out slots made into the sides of the skis, and bent up to suit the shape of our shoes. These Schuster-type bindings consisted of a leather strap with clamp threaded through the slot behind the toe-iron. \Vhile at first we used our stout summer boots with soles and heels shaved to fit this harness, village shoemakers and those who traveled from farm to farm soon produced acceptable ski boots. Poles were usually of hazel­ nut wood and rather long. \Vhile the use of two ski poles was actually normal practice, many of our teenage set disdained such crutches from the beginning, and stems, telemarks, and even small jumps were made with the single pole held crosswise in front of the body. (How much closer to impalement can you get?) All this soon changed, however, for the movement toward controlled high-speed downhill skiing was well under way in the regions around us. Mass skiing, as far as Europe was con­ cerned, had arrived with the impetus and inspiration engendered by that incomparable film "The Fox Chase in the Engadin" in which our new hero, Hannes Schneider, laid down the new fundamentals of the Arlberg technique. The new stem chris­ tiania was now adopted with a vengeance, and the telemark be­ gan to return to its old trademark status as the landing form of the Scandinavian jumper. It was during this transition period that I emigrated from Bavaria in 1925 to Seattle, home of my pioneer grandparents. I had already looked forward with great anticipation to skiing with Seattle youngsters, but the mild Puget Sound climate and lack of winter road access to the moun­ tains soon made me realize that I would probably have to for­ get my beloved sport for some time to come. Early Day Skiing 11 In the process of my learning to speak the language and otherwise becoming Americanized to the extent of all-out Boy Scouting, lady luck soon took a hand in the person of Harry Higman, my scoutmaster, an avid Mountaineer and beginning skier. Will I ever forget that first invitation to come along on a ski outing to Stampede Pass? Loaded with skis and rucksack I proceeded to board the streetcar to King Street station for my first American ski holiday. There seemed to be, however, a little matter of reaching that train in time, for the Seattle Transit System, it became evident, had not yet briefed its conductors on the shape of things to come. Poking my evil-smelling slats through the streetcar door at the conductor, I was bluntly in­ formed that the System was not in the lumber-hauling business, and that whatever it was that I was carrying did not come under "personal and reasonable luggage." Reinforcement fi­ nally appeared in the person of an old Swede, and under pre­ dominantly Teutonic and Swedish overtones the argument was reluctantly settled in favor of an exception, for the moment at least. It seems somewhat unbelievable now in retrospect that as recently as the mid-twenties, some people in Seattle had never heard of the word "ski," let alone seen a pair; this despite the fact that they could be bought at the Outdoor Store on First Avenue, and that over a hundred Mountaineers had already discarded snowshoes for the speedy runners.