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on the water south brittany

Left: Patrick, Andrew and the The harbour entrance was an excellent pizza at the top of the at HW±1hr, between 0600 and author scour the horizon for a obvious from a distance, despite main street. 2200. As we arrived and motored suitable lunch stop. Far right: a hundred or so dinghies doing The marina is extremely gently into the inner harbour, the Sunset from Ile de Houat. their level best to obscure it. The sheltered, so we had a sound lock gates opened and without Inset: A friendly welcome at constant stream of cruising yachts night’s sleep with no noise from even thinking we motored straight Crouesty, one of the biggest pouring out gave it away. nearby bars or discos to disturb through. No sooner had we had marinas in Brittany. Below: We picked our way in and us. Breakfast was minimalist, as a brief recce and turned around, Port Haliguen entrance on the glided alongside the relatively is typical in France, and we were the lock gates were firmly closed tip of the Quiberon peninsular. empty visitors’ pontoon. The last soon on our way to visit Belle Ile, – for the night. So this was to be time I was here we were rafted some 10 miles south as the crow our night stop whether we liked it three deep, but flies. As the yachts sails, however, or not. We berthed Knockando in then that was it was more like 20 miles, because the only remaining quayside spot mid-August. you have to negotiate your way and took a short walk into town, BRITTANY Now, at the end through the tricky Passage de despite the grey drizzle that had of September, Teignouse, not unlike the Needles worked its way down my collar. there were few Channel in the western Solent. The town is very much a small, Lorient visitors, although working fishing port, but one that the marina under sail clearly becomes a popular tourist buzzed with We had a good stiff breeze, destination in the summer. It has Golfe de local activity. We so sailing was the order of the just about everything a visiting Morbihan checked into the day, although this Ile de Groix La Trinite marina office meant beating across Port du Crouesty (one night’s a relatively narrow mooring was a channel, surrounded by Port Haliguen very reasonable rather ominous looking €20 including black, jagged rocks. Ile de Houat electricity) and It was fun, though, and headed for the Knockando behaved Le Palais Bar du Midi, impeccably in the Belle Ile beside the conditions. We were Ile de Hoedic old harbour. originally heading Fortunately there had been little

BoysPhotos: Charter BrittanyRick Buettner BrittanyIn Brittany Brittany Brittany Brittany Brittany Duncan Kent and friends leave their wives behind for a week aboard an alloy-hulled, lifting-keel Ovni 385 – and discover an easy way of exploring the Golfe de Morbihan.

ur charter was Plus Ça change last time I sailed in these waters, customers brought their own to start from La Trinité is a wonderful little with just my wife, who, though bedding and that normally, the delightful town that has changed little in an accomplished yachtswoman, is outside the months of July and riverside port of La the last century or so. Oyster a little petite for manhandling our August, there was a charge for Trinité-sur-mer, in farming still thrives along the hefty Nich 35 in tight quarters. bedding. We persuaded them that OSouth Brittany, not far from the shallow edges of the river, leaving We arrived late in the evening if they wanted to encourage more notorious Golfe du Morbihan. a narrow, winding channel for and, despite arranging for the keys customers from the UK, inclusive We chose to drive, because the boat users to negotiate their to be left in the anchor locker, bedding would be a must. ourselves with the vagaries of wind on the 1½ hour crossing for the island’s second port, yachtsman might need, including four of us wanted to visit La passage into the busy riverside found the boat open for us. Furthermore, that Brits prefer our lifting keel Ovni 385 before from La Trinité, so we didn’t feel Sauzon, but with a strong westerly a chandler and car and bike hire, Rochelle’s outdoor boat show, Le marina. Strong tides also add Unfortunately, we also discovered pillows to be a tad larger than a setting off across Quiberon Bay too guilty about wasting two blowing, together with an east- along with a good choice of Grand Pavois, to compare it with to the fun of trying to squeeze that there was only enough ladies handkerchief. for the smart marina of Port hours of sailing time sitting in the going tide, we settled for the restaurants – particularly if you’re Southampton’s equivalent that 50ft yachts between pontoons bedding for three of us, despite Still, they were very friendly Haliguen, on the southeastern bar and watching the rugby. island’s capital, Le Palais. We were a seafood fan. had taken place the week before. that were obviously designed for informing the charter operator, and helpful and we soon had tip of the Quiberon peninsular There are several bars and a little unsure of what we’d find in Impressed by the well organised, considerably smaller craft, but it Spi Bretagne, well in advance that the boat briefing sorted. More – the large ‘leg’ of land that offers restaurants around the marina, the harbour, though. According to NOISY NIGHTS bustling show (the French offer all gives the locals, who regularly we were four and one would be importantly, the base staff told excellent protection to the bay many of which provide good the pilot book you could take up Unfortunately, the ‘in place’ for a fascinating range of sailing promenade along the town quay sleeping in the saloon. Short straw us that, should we be interested and creates a ‘Solent-like’ sailing sustenance, but wherever you a mooring in the outer harbour, early hours drinking turned out boats that you never even catch around the time most charter drawing Rick, Sailing Today’s in watching England play Samoa area much frequented by local choose to go it’s a reasonably long but it’s also the island’s only to be the bar right beside our a glimpse of in the UK), we set yachts arrive, something to giggle photographer, bravely volunteered in the rugby world cup that sailing boats of all sizes. hike from the visitors’ pontoon. ferry port and the ferry dock was mooring, Les Matelots, so our off for the charter base in the and gasp about. to sleep under the spinnaker with afternoon, where the nearest bar Haliguen marina is very large, Provisions can be bought in right beside these buoys. Further sleep was disturbed by regular early evening. The easy drive back This was to be a rare ‘boys his fleece as a pillow. with TV was likely to be. with two distinctly separate the town, a mile or so from the inside the town’s harbour it dries screams and shouts from inside up to La Trinité took only a few only’ trip for me and my crew, The following morning we After a visit to the supermarket basins and numerous visitors’ pontoon, but there are no large at LW±1hr, but it wasn’t clear and outside the bar. Thankfully hours and was punctuated with a Andrew, Patrick and Rick. We are walked along to the office to 200m away and a quick stop at berths alongside a long pontoon supermarkets within walking where or even if one could moor it was all over by 0200 when first class meal at the motorway all accomplished yachtsmen, so I complete the paperwork, where the fish market for a few dozen immediately to starboard after distance. After the game, we in the wet basin, inside the lock, the last of the revellers relieved service station. felt a little more relaxed than the we were informed that most local oysters, we familiarised negotiating the narrow entrance. wandered up the hill and took in which incidentally opens only himself into the harbour and >>

92 Sailing Today April 08 April 08 Sailing Today 93 on the water south brittany

Getting there is not quite so convenient for The area get pretty hectic and you’ll discovering the Morbihan, but be pushed to find a spot to It takes around 2½ hours to Southern Brittany is a truly better for Les Iles Glénans. anchor if you leave it too late drive down to La Trinité from beautiful part of France and has in the day. Remember, also, St Malo and 3½ hours from an abundance of fascinating that the French are fairly rigid Cherbourg or Caen. If you Cost and booking islands, bays, inlets and rivers about their eating times, so prefer you can fly to Rennes or to explore. Anchorages are The UK agent for Spi Bretagne don’t leave it later than 2000 Nantes in the summer months, plentiful, especially around the is Nautilus Yachting, which to find a restaurant table and but neither is near enough island shores, but care has offers charters worldwide lunch is invariably 1200-1400. for an easy public transport to be taken around the rocky through a selection of Temperatures 12-22°C at night connection. There is a train to approaches and you will need operators. and 18-38°C during the day. Vannes, but you’ll still need a Spi offers bareboat or to be aware of the cab for the last 20 miles or so, skippered charters from several tidal state at all so driving is often the more bases in Brittany and southern times. sensible option. You can leave France and has a good The locals are the car in the boatyard car park selection of 140 modern boats friendly, helpful the lack of bedding, my book of French much difficulty. opposite Spi Bretagne’s office, up to 50ft in length. and respectful of The boat and which to be fair was boaty bit descriptions La Trinité-sur-mer but there is no security, so Our 6-8 berth Ovni 385 cost both the sea and operator mentioned in the at home, but using itself is a quaint little don’t leave anything valuable £1,250 per week in the first sailors, so we Our boat, an details, our only other a combination of town, with scenic on show. week of October. found ourselves aluminium Ovni 385, slight grouse was the the base manager’s coastal walks, good Contact: Nautilus Yachting welcomed wherever Spi also has a base in is one of around 20 lack of an English pidgin English and shops for provisioning Tel 01732 867445 Website we went. In July L’Orient, still in S Brittany, but or so Spi Bretagne translation to the boat my best Franglais, we and trinket buying, www.nautilus-yachting.com and August things 30M or so further west, which boats based at La instruction manuals. worked most of and numerous Trinité. Apart from Stupidly, I had left it out without too excellent restaurants.

Photos: Boys Charter Rick Buettner www.nautilus-yachting.com In Brittany

Above, left and right: Port Haliguen harbour, a typical little Breton fishing village that offers shelter from the notorious Cote Sauvage or savage coast Log and looks out over Quiberon Bay, described by the locals, at least, as one of the most beautiful bays in the world. Above, centre: this stone-built town Total distance 56.5M for the best holding, but cheery bonne journée as they left. – any earlier and you’ll be house on a cobbled street leading to the market square, dates back to the u 22/9 La Trinité – Port Haliguen (6.3M) in the first week of October After a brief bowl of muesli pushed through the long series of 17th Century and is one of Auray’s many fascinating buildings. u 23/9 Haliguen – Le Palais/Belle Isle (20.2M) we were one of only two, and fruit (honest – no bacon in Pilot books whirlpools at a frightening pace, u 24/9 Le Palais – Ile Houat (8.1M) so we could pootle about sight), we set of back across the RCC Pilotage Foundation unable to turn the boat easily. u 25/9 Ile Houat – Port Crouesty (12.7M) unhindered and find the best bay towards the large, modern North Biscay by Mike and Before attempting to enter you at 1600. Furthermore, it would the effort and for journalistic u 27/6 Crouesty – La Trinite (9.2M) spot for the night. harbour at Crouesty, enjoying should study the lie of the waters give us a higher and more stable purposes it scored well, enabling With the anchor well dug a cracking, full canvas reach in Gill Barron £35 and Secret and make a list that you can keep platform for taking photographs. us to see most of the Gulf from in and enough chain out for the F4 nor’westerly. Only the Anchorages of Brittany by alongside the helm of important The crew took little persuading an elevated position. We also a restful night, we settled persistent drizzle marred the Peter Cumberlidge £25 – both marks along your route. and we were soon hunkering had a couple of hours to wander Charts down to an entrée of local fantastic sail as we wove our way published by Imray. With the wind still blowing down behind the deckhouse of over Ile aux Moines, the largest Total distance 56.5M oysters, washed down with between the unfamiliar marks of A 10% discount is available to our 25kn we decided to walk around the vedette, trying to keep out inhabited island in the Gulf u Admiralty 2353, 2357, 2358, SC5700 a glass of perfectly chilled this wonderful cruising ground. readers. Just call Imray on 01480 to Port Navalo, a small harbour of the wind and nipping out and there was a good choice of u Imray C39 Chablis. Decadent though 462114 and quote Sailing Today right beside the entrance to the between rainstorms to shoot a restaurants and cafes in the small u SHOM 7033, 7034, 6992 this might seem, the No1 SLIDING IN (www.imray.com) gulf, partly for the exercise and few photos of the whirlpools as town, just a mile or so uphill u Navicarte 545, 546 local oysters cost us 50p After a good day’s sailing we partly to check on the conditions. the skipper kept the throttles at from the harbour. each and the wine was at entered the crowded port of It’s a good walk, taking some maximum revs. That night we walked back to French supermarket prices, Crouesty and, because we were where we should eat that night. 40 minutes, but most of it is the marina and saw a few brave staggered off towards the town. island, where we threaded our so it was cheaper than the average experiencing the highest tidal Although the large harbour along the water’s edge once you fast and furious fishermen being spat out of the The next morning dawned grey way into the stunning bay on its British takeaway pizza and pint of range of the year, entering at is surrounded by shops and circumnavigate the huge marina. I had visited the Morbihan entrance on the outgoing tide, and drizzly again, so after pigging SE side. lager. Main course was a healthy nearly LW wouldn’t have been restaurants, no more than a third If you have the dinghy launched, previously in my own boat and occasionally disappearing beneath out on croissants and coffee, we Houat is a truly delightful fish pasta, after which we settled thinkable had it not been for the of these were still open at this you can knock at least 15 well remember entering the Gulf breaking waves in the most took a visit to the nearby 18th stopover in good weather and down to stargazing in the cockpit, lifting keel. As it was, we needed time of the year. We chose one of minutes off this time by simply for the first time. My wife, Helen, disturbed areas. Local knowledge Century citadel to while away the has a good selection of sheltered well fleeced up against the chilly a foot or so off our draught, the cosiest and had a tasty meal, rowing across the marina from and I had studied the pilot books is definitely a help around these hours until the lock opened. anchorages when the wind is from offshore breeze mind you. because the echo sounder though not particularly of the the visitors’ pontoon. and large scale charts meticulously parts, but don’t be put off – once Had we had a little more time anywhere other than the east. We slept like babies that night, registered 0.0m just as we entered gourmet variety. Standing on the quay before going for it, but even then you’re in and tucked behind one we would have hired bikes and We were looking forward to rocked to our slumbers by a the narrowest part of the channel. The following morning the overlooking the swirling entrance it was pretty unnerving as we flew of the many little islets, it is a toured the island, which is said trying the lifting keel out and gentle, almost unnoticeable swell At least we were on a slack tide, wind had far from abated and channel a thought occurred to me in under reduced sail at 12kn+, stunning destination. to be well worth a visit, especially even considered drying out on the and the gentle slapping of tiny however, which allowed us to this, along with the huge tides, as I watched the tripper boat pull ticking off the marks from our Next day the wind had settled for nature lovers. But we were sandy beach, but as the tides were wavelets tapping harmlessly on moor without any embarrassing had us questioning the sense away from the quay and enter the crib sheet along the way. The back to a steady F4 and we set on a tight schedule, so after unfavourable for an early morning the hull. moments. Apparently the visitors of entering the infamous Golfe maelstrom. As the tide times were tidal effect does reduce somewhat off early to make the most of our paying our €27 dues (surprisingly getaway, we chose instead to drop The disadvantage of so few pontoons in Crouesty can be a de Morbihan – renowned for all wrong for entering and we once you’re well inside, but there last day. Reaching across the bay expensive considering the poor the hook as close in as we could boats around was apparent in tad playful mid-tide, particularly tidal streams of up to 7kn at only had one more night of our are still a large number of narrow was exhilarating and it was sad to facilities), we left as the lock get, lifting the keel up halfway to the morning when we were at springs. the entrance. At times of strong holiday left, taking the tripper channels where the stream runs at have to be returning so soon, but opened near midday. We were ensure we were tucked in close interrogated, albeit extremely At this point the wind was southerly winds and a full ebb, boat seemed like a sensible way to an alarming rate, so be prepared we had to be back in Cherbourg heading for a night at anchor, just enough to shelter from the chilly politely, by smiling customs rising and several squalls drove a disturbing wall of white water explore the Morbihan. It would for it – especially when picking the following afternoon, so we off the beautiful Ile Houat. The breeze and out of the swell. In officers. The paperwork was no us below for a hot brew. Glad can build up at the entrance. take us right around the Gulf, up a mooring buoy or choosing a needed to hand the boat back and continuing F5 westerly breeze the summer we’d have had a 100 problem, however, and they were to be tied up in the worsening Entering just before HW slack stopping at Ile aux Moines for place to anchor. check out, ready for a relatively gave us a swift 7kn run to the or so neighbouring boats vying soon on their way wishing us a conditions, our minds turned to tide is possibly the best choice lunch and returning us to Navalo Our vedette trip was well worth early start. ■

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