Augrabies Falls National Park

Module 7 Component 2: Augrabies and Kgalagadi NP

Augrabies Falls Population: Altitude:643m/2110ft Siyanda District National Park (88 Rainfall: Muncipality 000 ha)

Approximately 80km/120 km west of Upington.

Origin It was established in 1966.

Name 'Augrabies', is derived from the Koranna Khoe word ‘aukurabis’ meaning 'the water that thunders' / !Oukurubes “the water that thunders”

Claims to fame A ravine of about 260m has been cut through the granite-gneiss rock by rushing water over millions of years.

• This is the main feature of the Park. • The falls are 65m high and the pool below 93m in diameter. Augrabies • It is estimated that the pool is about 130m deep. falls • The volume exceeds that of the Victoria Falls when as many as 19 waterfalls plunges over the cliff when the river is in flood.

Legends and stories surrounding the falls. • It is very difficult to reach to pool below and believed to host a huge serpent, South Africa’s own ‘Loch Ness monster’. • It is also said that a fortune of alluvial diamonds had been deposited into the pool by the river over a long period of time. • If anything, there should be several giant mud barbells, a fish that may reach length of 2 meters.

Flora Quiver trees, wild olive and white karee dots the landscape, while Mesembryanthemums or ‘vygies’, an array of aloes, cat-thorn and raisin bush are some of the more common plants. Grasses include blue buffalo grass, finger grass, Cat’s tail and Kalahari sour grass. Some of the more interesting flora:

Fauna About 50 mammal species occur in the park. The scrub hare, ground squirrel, mongoose (yellow, slender and grey); rock hyra (dassie); chacma baboon (Kaapse Bobbejaan), vervet monkey; giraffe, common duiker, springbok, klipspringer, steenbok, gemsbok, kudu and eland are the most likely to be seen. Eland, along with black rhino have been recently reintroduced to the Park.

Amphibians and reptiles exceed 60 species. The clawed platanna, Karoo toad, common rain frog are clicking river frog are among the 10 species of frogs in the Park. The Cape Cobra, black necked spitting cobra, Pofadder, horned adder, etc. are some of the poisonous snakes found in the region.

Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

Module 7 Component 2: Augrabies and Kgalagadi NP

Attractions and activities

• Arrow Head Look out • Ararat Points • Moon Rock • Oranjekom

The Dassie (Rock Hyrax) trail

• This is a 5km long trail. • Precautionary measures includes wearing a hat and appropriate footwear, apply sun block, taking sufficient water and be careful when climbing over slippery rocks. • The route is numbered (1-10, see below) and the hiker can expect very interesting this along the way.

1 The name Phragmites is derived from ‘phragma’, the Greek word for The fence. This refers it growing like a ‘fence’ along the streams. Except for common Antarctica, it is found on all the continents making the plant one of the reed most widely spread, if not the widest distribution of flower plants in the (Phragmites world. Although a usually unwanted invader, it plays a valuable role in australis) filtering water very efficiently. This ability is applied at the Park’s sewerage works to circulate clean water in the system .

2 Stream ‘Stream capture occurs when two side streams flow from a braided stream capture but one cuts more quickly into its basin than the other. The consequence and gorge of this is that water is constantly drawn into the deeper channel with the formation other channel having little to no water.’ (Dassie trail interpretive booklet). at Arrow Point

3 These are volcanic rock that solidified underground to form a dyke. The Through intense pressure and heat it was changed into metamorphic rock. Swartrante Both types of rocks are more resistant against erosion and were left (‘black protruding above the ground. A shiny, thin layer or also known as ‘desert coloured varnish’, protects the rock from further chemical deterioration . The layer is hills) formed by oxides of titanium, manganese and iron leaching from the rock.

Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

Module 7 Component 2: Augrabies and Kgalagadi NP

Plant material needs to be broken down in order to release nutrients back into the soil. Usually organisms such as nematode, fungi, bacteria and protozoa, all tiny soil organisms do the job. However, due to the dry 4 conditions, only a few can survive, too little to make an impact. In the Decomposition Nama Karoo biome, Harvester termites are very important in

contributing to this process. They feed directly on the plant material and micro-organisms in the guts of the termites then decomposes the material to be reintroduced into the soil.

5 The tree is known as ‘the tree of life’ in arid regions as it provides nutrition to Shepherds both man and animals. It also has medicinal applications and features in Tree the spiritual beliefs an folklore of many African people. Its hard-leathery, (Boscia small leaves prevents too much water from evaporating, and the smooth, albitrunca) whitish-grey bark reflects the suns rays.

Two oblong granite-gneiss domes (Ararat and Moon rock), the largest 700m long and 100m high, were formed by the tendency of the rock to exfoliate opposed to weathering. This is due to the uniform composition 6 allowing only widely spaced joints. The process known as ‘onion-skin Moon rock weathering’ and sheets of rock varying from a few centimeters to a few

meters thick are exfoliated. ‘A-frame Pop-ups’ is a most interesting, but rare phenomena and are formed due to internal stress.

There is uncertainty as to how they were formed, some geologists attributes it to glacial action several thousand of years ago, others to major flash 7 floods in the past. Another theory states that due to the difference in size Potholes and texture of the rocks in the stream, some were broken away, forming a

‘hole’. Pebbles and grains of sands would accumulate, constantly moving ins circles acting as an abrasive, consequently deepening the hole.

8 Namaqua It is well adapted for growing in dry, rocky deserts and its roots are fig prominent against the rocks. Its evergreen leaves and light coloured bark (Ficus effectively reduces water loss through transpiration chordate)

9 Dassies / Usually congregating on rocks and white streaks of urine stains indicate the Rock Hyrax presence of a colony. Hyracium, is a folk medicine in South Africa and is made of the crystallized urine.

Various species of birds and animals are found in this habitat: 10 The water monitor (Varanus niloticus) is Africa’s largest lizard (100-200cm) Stream life and the Giant Kingfisher (Ceryle maxima) the largest of all the kingfishers (43-46cm). The Cape Clawless Otter (Aonyx capensis) are also at home here.

Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

Module 7 Component 2: Augrabies and Kgalagadi NP

Riemvasmaak Population: Altitude: Siyanda District Rainfall: Muncipality

Located where the Molopo River joins the Gariep from the north.

Historical overview • In 1973/74, the people of Riemvasmaak were forcefully removed to Namibia and the Eastern Cape in terms of the Apartheid policies. • The South Africa defense force then utilised the settlement as a training venue. • In 1994, it became one of the first restitution projects and 74 000ha were given back to the people. • The settlement mainly consists of Nama living at the mission at Riemvasmaak. • Another third is Xhosa, residing on at the Vredesvallei settlement on the Gariep (Orange) River In 2002, the inhabitants received the deeds to their plots.

Historical sites and monuments

• Roman Catholic Mission Station.

Attractions and activities

• Hot springs • ‘Beauty and the beast’ rock formation • 4x4 routes • Three hiking trails • Bird watching : Namaqua aDove, Black Eagle • Photography opportunities • Traditional meals and dancing • Sand dunes at Vredesvallei • Vredesvallei ‘taxi’ (boat across the river)

Essentials • 4 liters per persons per day • Insect repellent • Sunscreen • Medical kit

Khamkirri • Ideally located to access places such as the Augrabies Falls National Private Park, Riemvasmaak Hotsprings, Richtersveld, Namaqualand and Game Namibia. Reserve • The Nama called this area “Place of the leopard”.

Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

Module 7 Component 2: Augrabies and Kgalagadi NP

Gordonia Population: Altitude: Siyanda District Rainfall: 100-500mm Muncipality

On route the R360 north from Upington all along to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.

Boundaries: Molopo River (north); the Orange River (south); Langberg and Koranna mountains (East).

• Gordonia is the largest magisterial district in the country (53 500 km²). • Upington on the Orange River is the main town of the Gordonia.

Name • It was named after the four times prime minister of the Cape Colony (1879), Sir Gordon Sprigg. • Also known as Korannaland.

Claims to fame • Some of the largest saltpans in the world are hosted in Gordonia

The Kalahari Desert

• It was created over millions of years through wind erosion and roughly incorporates Gordonia in South Africa, most of Botswana, parts of Angola and a large Section of Zimbabwe. • It is the largest sandbed in the world. • The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (previously the Kalahari Gemsbok Park), as well as the Etosha Game Reserve in Namibia both serve to conserve the game that roamed the area in days gone by.

Name ‘Kalahari’ is a corruption of the Tswana word kgalagadi that refers to a large area with almost no surface water and arid. Even so, it is not a true desert such as the Sahara with its bare dunes and scarce vegetation.

Fact file Surface area: 933 000 km² Altitude: 200m to 900m Grain size: varies from 0.25mm - 0.4mm up to 1 mm Rainfall : 175 mm p.a. in the south (the Okavango Delta in Botswana can receive up to 575 mm p.a.) • Rivers are episodic due to the thick sand landscape being level • The southern part of the Kalahari is sparsely covered with grass, while the north is blessed with an abundance of grass and also more trees. • The most common tree in the region is the camelthorn tree. Many mopane trees are also found in the north.

Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

Module 7 Component 2: Augrabies and Kgalagadi NP

Episodic Rivers

Def: Some only flows once in many years. • The landscape is more or less level due to the uniformity and thickness of the sand. • Therefore, it plays hosts to episodic rivers, which after rainy season, fills pans, vlei (marsh) and swamps. • These collections of water often become the only drinking places for the animals after the rainy season has ended.

• The colours of the sand varies from whitish (higher rainfall areas) to reddish in the drier parts. Grain size is uniform and the sand is very fine. • So called ‘streets’ cuts through the sand dunes from northwest to Sand southeast and even have names. Dunes − Kalkputs ('lime well') − Toontjiespan ('little toes pan') − Letterboom ('letter tree') − Lappieskop ('hill of rags')

Some of the world’s largest saltpans occur in the region (see ‘saltpans Saltpans below).

Multiple Located in the camelthorn trees across the area. Storey Weaver Nests

Agriculture

Cattle and (karakul) sheep ranching

Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

Module 7 Component 2: Augrabies and Kgalagadi NP

Noenieput Population: Altitude: Siyanda District Rainfall: Muncipality

On route R360, north from Upington a gravel road turn off into a north – west direction.

Origin It is a small trading settlement with a school and hostel for children from isolated farms in a vast area.

Name Name is derived from the Khoe word ‘huni’ for the shepherd tree (witgat) and an old pit ('well') dug there by San (Bushmen).

‘Witgat’ is the Afrikaans corruption of the Khoe word for ‘drink’. A unique Ersatz coffee is produced from the roasted roots of the tree.

Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

Module 7 Component 2: Augrabies and Kgalagadi NP

Askham Population: Altitude: Siyanda District Rainfall: Muncipality

On route R360, 73km from the Park entrance at Twee Rivieren

Origin In 1931, a boarding school and Dutch Reformed Church serving the whole Kalahari were built.

Name The town was named by the Scottish land surveyor, Rodger Jackson, in 1919. There are several explanations for his choice: • Named after a town on the Irish coast. • Derived from a farmer who has allegedly said “Ask him” or “Ask ham” when sending a request for ingredients for his breakfast.

Historical sites and monuments

• Located not far from Askham. Witdraai • A breeding station for camels was established here to assist in the police police patrols in the Kalahari. The animals originally came from Sudan. station • There are also caves used as accommodation for police men.

• Near Witdraai. Captains • This is the highest ‘vaalkameel’ (Acacia haematoxylon) tree with vultures tree nesting in the top.

• Also located close to Witdraai. Skapie’s • A thief who stole a sheep (endearment form is ‘skapie’) was executed tree here. • Holes in the stem of the tree bear witness of this event.

Obelisk at • Commemorates the Great Trek. Dutch • This use to be the focal point of the Dingaans Day / Day of the Vow Reformed (today known as ‘Reconciliation Day’) celebrations on the 16th of Church December.

Attractions and activities

• Kalahari lamb dishes with its distinct flavour due to the special bushes found in the region. Traditional • Roosterkoek (‘roasted bread)’ food • Melktert (milk tart) • N’abba (Kalahari truffle).

Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

Module 7 Component 2: Augrabies and Kgalagadi NP

Groot Mier / Population: Altitude:84m/2 772ft Siyanda District Rietfontein / Rainfall: 120mm p.a. Muncipality Philandersbron

On route R360, 219 km north of Upington gravel road west from Twee Rivieren

• Situated between Namibia and Botswana. • This area is a semi desert (red sand dunes) with hot to very hot summers and mild to cold winters. • It is also home to the !Khomani San (Bushman), one of the world’s ancient tribes and they own farms in the Mier area. • They make San weapons (bow and arrow) that are for sale

Claims to Fame

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park South Africa’s largest conservation area The Mier Municipality It is larger than the Free State province

Agriculture

Sheep and Game farming area

Attractions and activities

4x4 routes

• Situated one hour from the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and 18km Klipkolk from the Namibian Border. Guesthouse • Belongs to the Mier Municipality.

Pulai • Belongs also to the Mier Municipality. Game • Offers 4x4 trials. Farm

Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

Module 7 Component 2: Augrabies and Kgalagadi NP

Rietfontein Population: Altitude:1144m/3753ft Siyanda District Rainfall: Muncipality (Gravel road south west of Groot Mier)

Salt pans Salt pans are hard, shallow depressions filled with bare grey clay and are recognizable due to its ‘shiny’ appearance. They are either round or oval. These flat and featureless expanses cover areas from a few hundred meters to several square kilometers. They collect local rainwater and are able to store it several months. Large numbers of animals gather around the pans when water is not available anywhere else. There are a greater variety of plant species within a radius of one kilometer of the pans than any other area of the same size in the Kalahari. This is due to the nutrients supplied by the pans. The game usually do not drink the highly, salted water, but rather stick to eating the salts in the clay and feasting on the diverse vegetation surrounding the pans.

Loch Maree The largest and most spectacular of all salt pans in the region • Located 5 km off the road. • The circumference of the pan is 24 km and it contains about 9 million tons of pure, white salt (1m-layer). • The rainfall is usually enough to cover only a small part of the floor. If the wind is strong enough and changes direction it actually transfers the shallow water cover from one section of the pan to another within a matter of hours.

On the R360 north • Groot Wit ('large white') from Upington to • Eensaamheid ('loneliness') Askham there are • Klein Aar ('small vein') several saltpans on • Filanders (a surname) route • Vrysout ('free salt') • Konga and Groot Aar ('large vein').

A couple of large • Hakskeen ('heel') saltpans lie around • Klein Mier ('little ant') the R31 from • Saulstraat ('Saul Street') Andriesvale • Koppieskraal to Rietfontein, a Dutch Reformed mission towards Rietfontein station on the Namibian border. (north west)

Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

Module 7 Component 2: Augrabies and Kgalagadi NP

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Siyanda District Park Muncipality

On route R360, approximately 230km north from Upington at the Bokputs Botswana Border.

Note: Do not drive at a high speed from Upington or via van Zylsrus to Twee Rivieren as the gravel sections of both roads are badly corrugated.

Origin

Kalahari Gemsbok Park • Located in the far northwestern corner of the Northern Cape, between Botswana and Namibia. • It was established to protect the gemsbok, also known as the ‘prince of the antelopes'. • The eastern boundary formed by the Nossop River, extended the Gemsbok National Park of Botswana to covers approximately 28 400 km'. • The animals could always freely migrate as no fence has ever been erected. • Since April 1999, the park become the first of Africa’s ’peace parks’ after a formal agreement between the two governments and became known as the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (the first of Africa's 'peace parks'). • Formal agreement between the governments of South Africa and Botswana ratified what had been the practice for more than half a century. • Various boreholes have been sunk to ensure an adequate supply of water for man and beast. By eating tsamma melons and wild cucumbers of the desert, the animals.

Name

It is a SeTswana word and is said to mean “semi-desert”.

Climate

Rainfall Average rainfall of 150mm in the southwest 350mm in the northwest. Rainfall is irregular usually between November and April. Strong winds and dust-storms often accompanies these thunderstorms. The dry season is from September to October.

Temperatures The summers are extremely hot with temperatures around 42°C in the shade. However, the ground surface temperature is much higher and can be up to 70°C.

During the winter nights the temperature can drop to -10°C. The ground surface area can now be 25°C lower that the air temperature.

Northern Cape Province ©Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd 2008

Module 7 Component 2: Augrabies and Kgalagadi NP

Gate Times

January to February 06:00 – 19:30 March 06:30 – 19:00 April 07:00 – 18:30 May 07:00 – 18:00 June and July 07:30 – 18:00 August 07:00 – 18:30 September 06:30 – 18:30 October 06:00 – 19:00 November and December 05:30 – 19:30

Borders

A 4x4 vehicle is required to access the Botswana side.

Travel times from Twee Rivieren to other camps Nossob 3 ½ hours Mata mata 2 ½ hours Grootkolk 6 hours Gharagab not possible in one day Bitterpan 6 ½ hours Kieliekrankie 1 ½ hours Urikaruus 2 hours Kalahari 2 ½ hours

Rules and regulations

• No pets allowed • No vehicle transporting game or animal carcasses, live animals (including dogs) or those showing signs of blood may refuel at Twee Rivieren. • Speed limit is 50km/h

Precautionary measures

• It is important to wear shoes at night to protect against possible scorpion stings. Shoes should also be turned upside down and shaken to get rid of any unwanted ‘visitors; overnight. • Keep an emergency supply of 10 litres water in your vehicle. • Stay in the vehicle in the event of a breakdown – it is the safest place. • Although it is low risk area, the risk might increase with a higher rainfall – contact the Malaria Hotline or ask your local Pharmacists.

Module 7 Component 2: Augrabies and Kgalagadi NP

Day travelers

Communal • Twee Rivieren ablution • Nossob facilities • Mata Mata Picnic sites • Melkvlei, 50 km (north of Twee Rivieren) • Dikbaardskolk, 56 km (South of Nossob) • Kamqua between Twee Rivieren and Mata-Mata.

Accommodation

The three oldest camps

Twee • Twee Rivieren at the entrance of the Park. Rivieren • This refers to the two rivers, the Nossob and Auob River meeting a few kilometers north of this camp. • Auob is the Khoe word for ‘bitter river’, while the Nossob river is described as ‘swartwater (black water), swartlong (black lung) – flowing gently and evenly.

Nossob • On the Nossob River.

Mata Mata • On the Auob River (Namibian border). • Mata-Mata, A Khoe word meaning “gee en aan jou sal gegee word” (Afrikaans) or “give and to you shall be given”.

• Bitterpan (Bitter pan) Non-fenced • Grootkolk (large Eddy) tented • Kieliekrankie camps • Urikaruus • Gharagab

• Kalahari

Facilities

Shops / Small Twee Rivieren , Mata Mata and Nossob supermarkets Filling stations Mata Mata, Nossob and Twee Rivieren Swimming Twee Rivieren and Kalahari Ten camps pool Car rentals Twee Rivieren (advance booking is essential) Tarred Twee Rivieren – suitable for light aircrafts but permission should first be runway obtained.

Module 7 Component 2: Augrabies and Kgalagadi NP

Historical sites and monuments

Ruins of • Located on the banks of the Auob River. old • The South African government drilled bore holes along the river before stone the First World War. walled • Families were then settled at each one to protect them as they were cottages strategically located along the initial route that the South African force and used for the invasion of German South-West Africa (Namibia). kraals • Later, another route was chosen and the borehole guards continued to stay there.

Flora • The Nossob and Auob dry river beds that runs through the park, greatly influence the vegetation and the red Kalahari sand dunes are enclosed by these two river beds. • The first rains transform the red dunes to a carpet of fresh, yellow flowers of the dubbeltjie (Tribulus terrestris). • Within two weeks fresh green grass begins to grow, but wither quickly if it does not rain soon. • Vegetation (grass, shrubs and a few trees) is very sparse on the red dunes. • It tends to be denser along the riverbanks, along with some camel thorn, blackthorn, raisin bush and driedoring.

Fauna

Animals • 58 species • Gemsbok, blue wildebeest, springbok and eland occur in large numbers in the park. • Others include kudu, giraffe, red hartebeest, the Kalahari lion, cheetah, wild dog, leopard and the brown and spotted hyena. • There are no elephants, hippos or crocodiles. Reptiles • 55 species Birds • 260 species • 40 kinds of eagles and raptures • Others include sociable weavers with their multi-storey nests; sandgrouse, kori bustard and ostrich

Module 7 Component 2: Augrabies and Kgalagadi NP

Origin of some the names in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

Names referring to events

Origin of the “Monro”, “Dalkeith” and “Graig Lockhart” to mention a few. many In 1914, Rodger Jackson, a Scotsman, was hired by the government to Scottish do some surveillance in the area of which later would become the names of the Kalahari Gemsbok Park. It was during this time that he bestowed these waterholes Scottish names, probably feeling homesick.

Dankbaar ‘Thankful’ – Jackson could collect water from here during a (Afrikaans) thunderstorm. Bedinkt ‘To think about’ – At this point Jackson were contemplating if he should (Afrikaans) continue with his oxen as there were no tsammas left.

Kameelslee The Sandersons shot the last free roaming Giraffe and then with their (Afrikaans) donkeys pulled it into Botswana.

Leeuwdril ‘Lion shiver’. At this place a man’s legs were shivering when he (Afrikaans) encountered a lion on the other side of the dune.

Names referring to illnesses

Kijgarries Great sickness of the blood. The cattle of the Koranna died of this (Khoe) sickness and eating this meat a lot of humans also died.

Grootskrij The names of the waterhole refer to the Afrikaans word ‘skrij’ that is and Kleinskrij translated as 'diarrhoea' in English. The cattle of a traveler to this region suffered diarrhea at this place after eating the tsamma melons and drinking the water here.

Kieliekrankie Almost sick.

Names for Animals in Khoe

Kijgames Groot leeuwyfie / Large Female Lion

Namabies Hartbeest

Module 7 Component 2: Augrabies and Kgalagadi NP

Resources and further reading

Dean, CM. Journey through The Living Deserts of South Africa. 2005.

Erasmus, BPJ. On route in South Africa. Jonathan Ball Publishers. 2004.

Raper, PE. Dictionary of Southern African Place Names. Jonathan Ball publishers.1989.

Websites www.indexmundi.com (altitude) www.northerncape.org.za www.sanparks.org www.statssa.gov.za (population density for the main places, Census 2001).

Brochures

Groen Kalahari Toerisme: • Groblershoop • Groot Mier • Riemvasmaak

Maps

Explorer Map South Africa. The Northern Cape –follow the sun not to the crowds.

Photos and visits

ML Kruger (Makiti Guides and Tours)

Compiled by Maria Louise Kruger (2008)