Asia Northern India Destinations
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ASIA NORTHERN INDIA DESTINATIONS Splash Tamara Hinson lthough I imaginehit climbing has some of the country’s best Ganges, it’s a popular stop on AEverest must be rather rafting, trekking and cycling, it’s northern India itineraries, such heads to the satisfying, it’s also expensive. time to get on top of what’s hot as Intrepid Travel’s Hike, Bike Himalayas for an And time-consuming – eight in the Himalayas. and Raft tour, which takes in days just to get to base camp. Uttarakhand’s most exhilarating adventure through Luckily, northern India’s w RISHIKESH AND destinations. These include starring role on many operators’ UTTARAKHAND Gopeshwar for its cycling and northern India itineraries means it’s easy to get The Himalayan state of Chopta for trekking. an adrenaline fix without scaling Uttarakhand is a great starting The best bit? Despite being the world’s tallest mountain. place, and the holy city of surrounded by spectacular As a growing number of Rishikesh, an hour’s flight north peaks, Rishikesh’s low altitude of operators offer adventure-packed of Delhi, makes the ideal base. 372 metres means there are no itineraries to the region, which Perched on the banks of the acclimatisation issues. 20 September 2018 travelweekly.co.uk 59 ASIA NORTHERN INDIA DESTINATIONS Rishikesh has the Ganges to thank ASK THE for its popularity. It is regarded by EXPERTS Hindus as the holiest river, and pilgrims Since the arrival of the flock here to bathe in the waters. Since the arrival of the Beatles at an ashram Beatles at an ashram 50 years ago, it has also been India’s 50 years ago, Rishikesh self-styled yoga capital. has been India’s So it’s hardly surprising that I’m here self-styled yoga capital for a dip in the Ganges – although not for religious reasons. Instead, I’m rafting from a village high above Meghan Verbeek, Rishikesh towards its centre. This destination stretch of river is now lined with There’s plenty for land lubbers too, manager, India, adventure camps and boutique hotels, including treks to local temples and Nepal, Sri Lanka including my base, Raga on the to the waterfalls trickling through the and Bhutan, Ganges, where a cluster of cosy huts Shivalik mountains. Intrepid Travel perches on the riverbank. Rafting, however, is the biggest “Made up of The two-hour journey from draw. The rapids generally fall within mountainous, Dehradun airport isn’t for the faint- categories one to four. During my forested terrain, shutterstock SAMPLE hearted. At times there is just a two-hour rafting excursion, I drift past the Uttarakhand PRODUCT crumpled barrier between my taxi and sandy beaches, beneath bouncing province is the vertiginous drop to the river, and rope bridges and past orange robe- PICTURES: stunningly the air is filled with the blasts of horns wearing sadhus (holy men), before beautiful, with ABOVE: Kangchenjunga mountain range Virgin Atlantic as drivers of dinghy-topped SUVs whiz taking a dip in the surprisingly chilly an array of offers flights along the mountain roads. waters of the Ganges. LEFT: Rishikesh, on the banks of the Ganges opportunities for from Heathrow to The village I’m staying in, Singthali, On the advice of my guide, I active travellers. Delhi from £375 is quiet and crowd-free. In the morning navigate the final set of rapids from The Himalayan return. I’m woken by shivering monkeys, damp outside the boat, holding onto the rope peaks and glaciers virginatlantic. from being in the Ganges, tapping on wrapped around the dinghy’s edge as are what the area com my window. Lizards scuttle away as I we float towards Rishikesh. It may be is known for, and head to breakfast in a dining room that chilly, but I think I’ve discovered my there are amazing Exodus offers has breathtaking river views. new favourite mode of transport. opportunities to a 14-night Unsurprisingly, the most popular Nepalese border, it’s a town built (the spelling is intentional, to avoid tea, served by a woollen hat-wearing window. The mist has cleared to reveal hike or cycle. And Darjeeling, activities are water-based. At Jumpin’ w DARJEELING AND WEST on mountaineering. At Darjeeling’s confusion with UK-based rivals), is a Nepalese woman whose breath I can the distant outline of Kangchenjunga, a trip wouldn’t be Sikkim & the Heights, self-described as India’s first BENGAL Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, rambling mansion and former boarding see in the cold morning air. on the India-Nepal border. complete without a Singalila Ridge extreme adventure zone, visitors can Don’t fancy a dunking? Those who built to honour sherpa Tenzing Norgay, house for British tea planters. It’s We set off along a path winding It’s the world’s third-highest yoga and meditation trip, which bungee jump over the Ganges or fly prefer dry land will love Darjeeling there’s a museum filled with examples an explosion of Britishness: antique through forests of japonica trees, mountain. Using my camera zoom, I experience.” includes a visit to above it on a three-person zip line. in West Bengal. Close to the of the scarily basic equipment used by telephones, afternoon tea served by planted by the British who exported can clearly see its deep crevasses and Darjeeling, a ride Everest’s first conquerors. frilly apron-wearing waitresses and tea in crates made from this wood. magnificent, snow-covered mountain on the Darjeeling It takes four hours to get there Sunday lunches with all the trimmings. Tenzi hands me sprigs of wild ridges. Who needs Everest? Himalayan from Bagdogra airport – itself a two- I plump for a trek with Darjeeling’s garlic to sniff, points out bright red Railway and a hour flight from Delhi – to Darjeeling. top local activity provider, Adventures rhododendrons and wild strawberries, trek to Singalila Nearing the city, I spot the Unesco- Unlimited, set up by Irish ex-pat and chats to local boys slicing off Ridge. From listed Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, Catherine Canavan and her Nepalese lengths of bamboo to sell to hikers as When to go £2,249 per person TOP with its colourful steam train chugging husband Gautam. They don’t currently walking sticks. Glyn Thorneloe, including flights For more information, TIP along the narrow track. Although pay commission to agents, but are a We pass Tonglu, both a hamlet and Northern India’s climate is incredibly product manager, from London. there’s a similar railway in the Himachal useful source of local knowledge for a peak in the Singalila mountain range. varied. The best time for rafting near Explore visit adventures exodus.co.uk unlimited.in or Pradesh town of Shimla, this one has clients who want to add a bit of activity In the 19th century, British botanist Rishikesh is between September “Darjeeling, famous ragaonthe the world’s second-highest station, and to an independent Indian adventure. Joseph Hooker came here to collect and November. Activities are largely for its tea, boasts Intrepid Travel’s ganges.com a ride is a highlight of many northern Canavan tells me that although specimens for Kew Gardens. suspended during monsoon season, awesome views 11-night Hike, Indian tours. They include Explore’s most customers come to trek, their We cross into Nepal and I spot a from July to September. of the Himalayas Bike and Raft tour Inside the Hidden Kingdoms tour, bicycle-based excursions are proving tiny white building adorned with Many trekkers visit this part and has a unique includes rafting which also stops at the Bhutanese increasingly popular, as are their Buddhist prayer flags. Tenzi opens of India during spring and early atmosphere thanks in Rishikesh rafting hotspot of Punakha. motorbike tours. But it’s the trekking the door to show me a beautiful, summer, when temperatures vary to a mixture of and a trek to Much of Darjeeling (including several I’m here for. spinning prayer wheel, and over lunch between 20C and 35C. influences from Uttarakhand’s schools and tea plantations), was I rise early and meet my guide, Tenzi, we look at photos of animals he’s The best time to trek in Darjeeling nearby Bhutan Deoria Tal lake. built by the British. Reminders are before driving to Maneybhanjang, spotted on this route – red pandas, is between October and March, when and Nepal. A visit From £1,436, everywhere, from the red postboxes to near the Nepalese border, where he panthers and bears among them. visibility is good. Between April and to Darjeeling is a Glenary’s Bakery, with its old-fashioned registers my passport to allow me to After 12 miles, the trek ends. I excluding flights. LEFT: June, expect highs of around 25C, highlight on any intrepidtravel. Windamere telephone box and homemade pastries. hike into Nepal. At nearby Dhotrey, we collapse into the jeep, only to be woken with occasional rainfall. trip to northern com/uk Hotel, Darjeeling My base, the Windamere Hotel enjoy a breakfast of dumplings and by Tenzi urging me to look out the India.” 60 travelweekly.co.uk 20 September 2018 20 September 2018 travelweekly.co.uk 61.