Serving the Mariner since 1786 Journal Winter 2019

London International Shipping Week | Vessel ReplacementA Royal Project Appointment | Oban Winter Festival Journal Contents WINTER 2019 | ISSUE NUMBER 115 1 Welcome from Mike Bullock

3 Message from the Chair Mike Brew 22-23

4-5 Health, Safety and Environmental Update

6 Operations Update

7 Vessel Replacement Project

14-1512-13 16-17 10-11 8-9 Maritime Insurance

8-9 10-13 4 London International Shipping Week 12-15 14 18 Heritage Trust Update

18-20 16-17 Museum of Scottish

18 ALK Visits North Coast Lighthouses

12-15 19 12-15 Book Reviews

20 The Keeper of Eilean Glas

22-23 20-21 HES to Review ’s Historic Lighthouses 26-2724-25

24-25 Lighthouses of the 20 © If you’d like to reproduce any articles or photographs in the Journal, please 29 contact the editor Oban Winter Festival [email protected] or write to: Fiona Holmes 84, George Street, 30-34 EH2 3DA. Spotlight on our People Cover: Muckle Flugga Disclaimer: Published articles are not Photo credit: Robert Ionides, Electrical/ necessarily the views of the editor or 35-36 Electronic Technician the Nothern Lighthouse Board. Appointments/Leavers/Retirements More than Lighthouses - www.nlb.org.uk

Another important, albeit somewhat A big thank you must go to RLK Barry less glitzy, achievement is the Miller for sourcing and organising the culmination of a huge amount of making of the new weather vane. behind the scenes work to prepare and transition NLB to meet the latest Once again I have been telling NLB’s International Organization for unique story to the public through Standardization’s (ISO) requirements. presentations. This included a dozen The final stage was completed in 30 minute sessions in the Board Room September with the award of ISO during 84 George Street’s Doors 45001:2018 for Occupational Health Open Day event. Although this was and Safety Management. This means somewhat of a personal marathon, the that NLB is now certified across the full genuine fascination and interest shown suite of disciplines which also include by our visitors kept me going. The Quality Management, Environmental audiences included a few NLB veterans Welcome Management and Information - thanks to all of you for not asking any Management Security and what’s more difficult questions! from Mike we are the first GLA to achieve this milestone. We also commissioned Looking ahead to 2020, we have a the Government Internal Audit busy year with a full programme of Bullock Agency (GIAA) to conduct an lighthouse refurbishments, independent audit of the Organisa- progressing the work to replace POLE CHIEF EXECUTIVE tional Change programme which has STAR, a major refit for PHAROS, been underway over the last couple commencement of an upgrade to the riting my article for the of years. I’m very proud to report that facilities at our HQ and so much more. Journal gives me a chance we came through with flying colours Wto reflect on all that has with a “Substantial” assessment and There is no doubt we are living through happened over the preceding six would like to publicly thank everyone strange times and it is anybody’s guess months and every time the immediate (and I mean everyone as this has been what the political situation will be by thought is it’s been really busy. The a whole-team effort) for working so the time you read this. However, there difference this time is that it has been hard to turn the theory into tangible are at least some absolute certainties really really busy. But what a period of improvements. one of which is that NLB will continue achievement for NLB. In my five years to provide its vital service for the Safety as part of NLB’s team, there have been In the early Autumn, as part of a of All. As the year closes, I would like lots of remarkable experiences, but safety leadership tour with Billy Byrne, to wish NLB’s staff, past and present, nothing comes close to witnessing, I joined Technicians Colin Dingwall neighbours and all readers of the first hand, a Piper playing on the floodlit and Ross Russell and our Principal Journal a very happy Christmas and helicopter deck as PHAROS sailed Mechanical Engineer Joe Hothersall at best wishes for the New Year. through Tower Bridge, at night, to start Corsewall as they replaced the weather her duties in support of London vane. Sounds an easy enough job, but International Shipping Week. working on top of a lighthouse dome over 100 feet from the ground, whilst The words I heard from those who installing a very heavy steel arrow is were there included - proud, amazing, far from straightforward. This is special, moving, spine-tingling, unique, routine stuff for NLB’s Engineers but emotional, wow and even gobsmacking nevertheless it illustrates the diversity - it was all of those things and more. of tasks that need to be done. The There are some great photographs original weather vane saw over 200 of the week on pages 10 to 13 which years of service and under the care of capture the atmosphere and activities. generations of NLB Engineers to However, in simple terms PHAROS come, the new one should last for and the supporting team did NLB, another 200! Scotland and the Isle of Man proud. I have a photo of my Grandad Sam welcoming Prime Minister Harold Wilson onboard a ship he served in Above: My Grandfather with PM Harold (pictured right) - now I’ve also Wilson. Left: old and new weather vanes welcomed a PM onboard our ship. Being NLB’s Chief Executive is definitely not an ordinary job! MIKE BULLOCK

1 Northern Lighthouse Board Journal Winter 2019

OUR MISSION: “ To deliver a reliable, efficient and cost-effective Aids to Navigation service for the benefit and safety of all Mariners”

COMMISIONERS OF NORTHERN LIGHTHOUSES (As at December 2019)

Captain Michael Brew (Chair) Principal Craig Turnbull Nominated by the Lieutenant-Governor of Isle of Sheriff Principal of and Strathkelvin Man and appointed by the Secretary of State Graham Crerar Captain Alastair Beveridge (Vice Chair) Elected by the Commissioners Elected by the Commissioners Hugh Shaw Rt Hon James Wolffe QC Elected by the Commissioners Lord Rob Woodward Alison Di Rollo QC Appointed by the Department for Transport Solicitor General of Scotland Elaine Wilkinson Sheriff Principal Ian R Abercrombie QC Appointed by Transport Scotland Sheriff Principal of South Strathclyde, Councillor Frank Ross The Rt Hon The Lord Provost of Edinburgh Sheriff Principal Marysia Lewis Sheriff Principal of Tayside, Central and The Rt Hon The Lord Provost of Glasgow

Sheriff Principal Duncan Murray WS Councillor Barney Crockett Sheriff Principal of North Strathclyde Lord Provost of Aberdeen

Sheriff Principal Derek Pyle Councillor Bill Lobban Sheriff Principal of Convenor of Council Grampian, Highlands and Islands Councillor Len Scoullar Sheriff Principal Mhairi Stephen QC Provost of the Council of Argyll and Bute Sheriff Principal of Lothian and Borders

“In Salutem Omnium” For the Safety of All

2 More than Lighthouses - www.nlb.org.uk

CHAIR’S MESSAGE Mike Brew

here are as ever, many topics in October, we formally expressed Looking ahead, Graham Crerar will and events I could mention in our thanks to everyone involved for complete his time as a Tthis article but by far the most making NLB’s involvement in LISW Commissioner in April 2020 and the prominent and beneficial to NLB, in such a success. recruitment process for his which I was involved, was London replacement is well under way. International Shipping Week (LISW). For the third year running, NLB took We have made extensive efforts to By the time I arrived on Monday 9 part in Edinburgh Doors Open Day attract a wide range of candidates September, PHAROS was a hive of and across a weekend in September, so that the Board continues to have activity with the finishing touches we welcomed over 1,000 people an appropriate balance of knowledge being applied to the marquee on the to 84 George Street. The feedback and experience. aft deck for the evening’s event. from visitors both on the day and on Everything looked ship-shape and social media was entirely positive. The Commissioner’s Inspection well prepared but there was an We know we have an interesting and Voyages were completed with the underlying sense of nervousness relevant story to tell and by taking usual friendly and efficient assistance because hosting a string of high part in events such as LISW and of the crew of PHAROS. On the profile events for an international Doors Open Day we can engage with second voyage, I had the great conference was hardly normal a much wider and, hopefully, privilege of visiting the Flannan business. appreciative audience. Isles. The tragic history of this lighthouse was never far from our From what I saw from the outset Organisational changes continue to minds but what struck me most was nothing was too much trouble and bed-in but significant benefits can be how remote and wild these islands everybody worked promptly and seen in the improved operational and are. This was forcibly reinforced professionally. I was confident the financial performance. The 2018/19 by the great skuas or “bonxies” as week would go well but my Annual Report and Accounts were I have learned to call them, if we expectations were exceeded by completed and submitted to the strayed too far from the lighthouse some margin. The willingness to Department for Transport and laid compound. The island is their home engage with our visitors, the before the in and we were left in no doubt about commitment and enthusiasm shown May and were received without any it! by all NLB staff ensured that queries or concerns. Improved PHAROS and NLB ended the week project management and In closing, may I thank everybody earning high praise from all who procurement has resulted in very who works for or supports NLB for attended the events. Photographs, little over-run from the 2018/19 their efforts in 2019 and wish you all videos and comments on social programme, and the 2019/20 an enjoyable Christmas and media were complimentary and programme is progressing well. The prosperous 2020. showed how much interest the Board of Commissioners is reassured public has in our activities. Overall it that significant improvements are was a week that raised the profile of being made and grateful for the NLB and has been a great benefit. At commitment of staff who are the Board of Commissioners meeting producing them. MIKE BREW

3 Northern Lighthouse Board Journal Winter 2019

Health, Safety and Environmental Update

Billy Byrne, HS&E Manager

It’s always nice to celebrate good news and in September we learnt that NLB had achieved ISO 45001 accreditation, after our health and safety management systems were externally audited by DNV GL

he new ISO 45001 standard is recognised internationally Tand aims to reduce risks and ensure the health and wellbeing of everyone.

As part of the audit report, DNV GL Principal Lead Auditor, Pat Darmody commented:

• “Leadership” examples being set have now been embedded over a considerable period and this is embraced by Top Management(including Senior Managers) with personnel at all levels of the organisation

• Continued focus on Health & Above: Jim McBrier, Ally Rae and Pat Darmody (DNV GL) at Eilean Glas during part of the ISO 45001 audit Safety Culture – openness, Below: Colin Dingwall, Ross Russell, Joe Hothersall and Mike Bullock at empowerment and risk awareness. The team had to replace the weather • Implementation and embedding of NLB’s Risk vane at the top of the tower. The Management Framework and work gave our Chief Executive a real associated Process Improvement insight into the importance our Methodology building upon the people place on making sure their work of the Tri GLA Risk own safety and that of their Management Review, was completed during 2018, and colleagues and other peoples isn’t recognises that NLB is compromised in any way, whatever demonstrating best practice task they are performing. within this framework. We also hold Environmental An example of the external accreditation, ISO 14001 and have audit findings on leadership, was made good progress in this area. demonstrated when Mike Bullock To help reduce the organisation’s went to Corsewall Lighthouse with environmental impacts, we set up an Technicians, Ross Russell and Colin environmental work group (pictured Dingwall and Mechanical Engineer, right), which is made up of staff from Joe Hothersall. across the organisation.

4 More than Lighthouses - www.nlb.org.uk

Larger projects that will contribute significantly in reducing our environmental impact include: 1 2 2 THE USE OF SOLAR POWER 3 AND THE REMOVAL OF DIESEL 3 ACROSS OUR ESTATE The removal of diesel generators means the fire loading is reduced 2 4 and fire suppression systems can also be made redundant. This also 3 3 reduces our C02 emissions. Some Left to right: Joe Hothersall, Paul Hudson, Karen Ross, Jim McBrier, Billy Byrne, Colin Brolly, lighthouse stations will still retain a Anne James, Mark Robertson and on the screen are Graham Moffat and Ewen Mackerchar need for diesel fuel and fire suppression systems due to their location, lack of immediate power supplies and the need for operational reliability. Joe Hothersall is exploring an alternative gas/ medium for the fire suppression systems that has no adverse environ- mental impact for these locations.

ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY NEW SHIP Julie-Anne Humphreys, Project Man- agment Office Manager along with the Project Board responsible for the design and build of the new ship to Ewen Mackerchar and Craig Turnbull with replace POLE STAR, are considering cardboard compactor in Oban environmental best practice to create an environmentally friendlier new In Oban, Marine Operations Manager ship. This will take cognisance of Ewen Mackerchar has introduced things such as hybrid (combination cardboard compactors. These reduce of battery and fuel) power options, in the number of skip deliveries, and Technician with solar panels at the line with the Clean Maritime Plan.* therefore the C02 emissions, reduce Lighthouse costs and also make the base safer by having less vehicles travelling in EASY ENVIRONMENTAL WINS During the first six months of the and out. Our ships are also using Organisations tend to spend a lot of year, we achieved these savings: cardboard compactors. resources on paper, while the environment suffers from the carbon Given the huge environmental that paper usage emits. We’re 14182 sheets of paper saved challenges the world faces, some of encouraging our staff to have our environmental initiatives might paperless meetings and to use video 70.76kg weight of paper not used seem small but day by day and with conferencing rather than travel to everyone’s help we are gradually meetings. So, instead of printing out reducing our impact on the minutes and reports, they can be £709.10 cost saving from paper environment and becoming more shown via laptops for all to see on a and more efficient. You can support big screen. Travelling to meetings is us by downloading a copy of the also reduced via interlinked video or 67.65 kg/CO2²carbon savings from paper Journal from our website instead of teleconferencing facilities. receiving a printed copy. Just let the editor know if you’d like to do this. Our Technical Writer, Mark 9252 journey miles saved from using VC * The Clean Maritime Plan is part of the Robertson, has devised an excellent Government’s Clean Air Strategy, which aims to reporting form which is completed cut down air pollution across all sectors to protect after each meeting and records the 1752.61kg/CO2 average car size travel public health and the environment. It will also help deliver the ’s commitment to be savings made. carbon savings net zero on greenhouse gases by 2050.

5 Northern Lighthouse Board Journal Winter 2019

Operations Update

Phil Day, Director of Operations

ngineering activities have this included the replacement of an continued apace since the area of steel deck forward of the Elast Journal. Ruvaal has been main deck winch which had heavily repainted and Eilean Glas has been corroded. This was previously the fully refurbished and a new light site of the winch and the alterations fitted. Following some initial had left an area where water could difficulties getting to site, Cape accumulate. Wrath has begun a second phase of works to prepare the light for PHAROS has been equally busy with solarisation. A mammoth under the notable highlight of London slinging operation, of well over 100 International Shipping Week but Stroma Lighthouse helicopter loads, delivered sand continuing with lighthouse support cement and ballast for a solar array work as well as Rig Watcher change base as well as the prefabricated outs for TOTAL at the Frigg field and frame for the panels. MCP01.

Barra Head experienced significant Whilst on another charter, PHAROS’ weather delays but on the third port propeller became entangled attempt the site was mobilised in drifting fishing net. The vessel and work has now started on the made passage to Scalloway where improvement of welfare facilities the net was removed and the vessel and the removal of a GRP returned to the charter for the Lighthouse accommodation building that had remaining time. PHAROS will become damp and uninhabitable. drydock in February 2020. A new survey suite and DP system have Refurbishment of Stroma continues been procured for this docking. whilst work at the Butt of Lewis is set to begin in the new year. The Navigation Committee has Sixteen Sound of Harris beacons will reviewed all areas for the 2020 be painted over the coming months. AtoN Review and considered the Erosion prevention work at Firths Voe stakeholder input along with traffic has been cancelled in favour of volumes. Recommendations are moving the exposed minor light being finalised for a December when it becomes necessary to do so. Navigation Committee with the intention of having a draft review POLE STAR has a had a busy season document published for consultation mainly undertaking routine service at the end of 2019. The final review work. In July, the vessel briefly document will be published in time grounded in the approaches to for the Joint User Consultative Group on a soft mud bank on a meeting in May 2020. rising tide. The vessel was refloated within the hour without injury or A decision has now been made damage to staff, vessel or the on the future of DGPS. The GLA’s environment. recommendations have been passed to the Department for Transport (DfT) Butt of Lewis Lighthouse During September, POLE STAR was and a public announcement will be in self refit in Leith. Largely routine, made in the New Year.

6 More than Lighthouses - www.nlb.org.uk

Vessel Replacement Project

Julie Humphreys, PMO Manager

As NLV POLE STAR approaches the end of her economic operational life, the Northern Lighthouse Board has embarked upon a project to replace her.

gainst a comprehensive For example, those who will be evidence-based approach, the PROJECT BRIEF There is much to consider at this using the capability, those involved outcome of the 2018 tri-GLA A stage. For example, to ensure that in securing the funding and those Fleet Review acknowledged the through-life costs and value for interested in the return on the need to sustain a seven ship fleet money are fundamental to the vessel investment. There will also be across the three General Lighthouse design; with a focus on effective detailed requirements exercises Authorities. core functionality to ensure high using specialist software - where availability and ease of operation and staff and the crews will be able to The review concluded that NLB maintenance. help identify requirements by requires two vessels of mixed drawing on their own day to day capability to provide routine planned The project team will also be experiences. One area is Human marine aids to navigation looking for design elements that Factors Engineering (HFE) which is maintenance, off-shore support incorporate new, tested and robust the ergonomic considerations that work and the provision of both risk technologies in the vessel design. drive ship layout and equipment response and incident intervention. The replacement vessel will be in selection. service until circa 2049, therefore BUSINESS CASE technologies will need to offer Some of these requirements may be We are in the process of developing high performance, resilience to identical to those already identified and some may have constraints, a business case that recognises the climate changes, as well as being such as, interface or physical need to replace POLE STAR. It is able to mitigate known constraints. For example, mass, planned that a replacement vessel environmental aspects, such as emissions, noise and fuel volume, power usage and heat will be in operation by Summer 2024 consumption. dissipation etc – all data will be – this replacement will bring new collected for analysis, in order to ideas, cutting edge technologies for We are holding a workshop with key ensure that NLB can look forward to delivering the core requirements, stakeholders in January to identify a bright future with the right solution. as well as characteristics, such as, project benefits and will be inclusive maintainability, operability, habitability of the relevant parties. and crew safety.

A Project Board has been created for appraisal of the business case which will be delivered to the Department for Transport (DfT) for approval by March 2020. A small project team are currently developing the business case, as well as determining the statement of requirements. A procurement for a Technical Specialist is underway and the tender is due out in December/January 2020.

7

More than Lighthouses - www.nlb.org.uk

Maritime Insurance

During October, Mairi Rae and Ewen Mackerchar, NLB Marine Operations Manager, attended the Global Marine Insurance Academy 2019 held by NLB’s Marine Insurance Brokers, Willis Towers Watson (WTW). Willis Towers Watson began life as a marine insurance broker in 1828 making it one of the oldest still operating today.

Mairi Rae, Director of Business Services

ttending the Global Marine at their ‘boxes’ – so called by Edward Insurance Academy was an Lloyd when he first began to rent out Aopportunity to gain a greater table space at his coffee shop. The understanding of the main waiters that Edward Lloyd hired to insurances available to maritime serve coffee soon began supporting organisations. It was also a chance to the emerging insurance market, meet with delegates from across the distributing messages and globe including Taipei, Moscow and information among the customers. Vancouver. During our visit we saw the Lutine Bell, Topics covered the lifecycle of a vessel salvaged from the lost HMS Lutine - from building to decommissioning - which sank in 1799 carrying £1m along with other relevant topics such in gold and silver bullion insured by as cyber threats and low sulphur fuels. Lloyds. Willis Towers Watson were excellent hosts and the intensive three day Historically, a ship’s bell rings out Academy included a tour of the Lloyds when another ship goes missing; Building where we had the opportunity once for a lost ship and twice for her to hear about the history of Lloyds and return. Now the Lutine Bell is used to view some hidden treasures. to mark occasions of ceremony and mourning and was last rung once on within the building we had the LLOYDS BUILDING 11 September 2001. We also saw opportunity to view The Adam Room In the 17th century, London’s furniture made from the wreck of HMS which was acquired from an auction at importance as a trade centre led to an Lutine (pictured below). Some of which Bowood House in Wiltshire. It was increasing demand for ship and cargo had a striking resemblance to the Bell cut into 1,500 pieces before being insurance. Edward Lloyd’s coffee shop Rock table at 84 George Street with its relocated into London to provide a real became recognised as the place for serpent base. contrast to the modern building with obtaining marine insurance and this is elaborate fireplace, corniced ceilings where the Lloyd’s that we know today The Loss Book, containing the details and panels and displays of historic began. Although Edward was never an of lost ships, has been in use since collections. insurer but rather a facilitator, providing 1774. Today’s entries are still a platform upon which underwriters completed using quill and ink by It was a fascinating visit. You can find and brokers built the modern insurance Lloyd’s Head Waiter continuing the out more about the Lloyds building at industry. historic role from the early coffee shop. www.lloyds.com/about-lloyds/uk-build- The Loss Book from 100 years ago is ing-services/the-lloyds-building Most of the business written at Lloyd’s also on display and it is positive to see is still conducted face-to-face in the the reduction in entries in the current Underwriting Room where on a given ledger. day more than 4,000 people will raise premiums of £100m+ and pay out The Lloyds building was designed claims of around £50m. Every day, by Richard Rogers and is commonly brokers bring insurance risks to referred to as ‘the inside-out building’ ‘The Room’, and Lloyd’s underwriters with its services visible on the evaluate, price and accept those risks exterior of the building. In contrast,

9 Northern Lighthouse Board Journal Winter 2019

London International Shipping Week 2019

In September, PHAROS swapped her more familiar operating areas for the River Thames, berthing right in the heart of the UK capital alongside HMS BELFAST.

10 More than Lighthouses - www.nlb.org.uk

he purpose was very different from the ship’s The week also attracted good media coverage in particular normal tasking. Instead she was there to support BBC Breakfast did a live broadcast from the vessel, with TLondon International Shipping Week (LISW), a Reporter Ben Thompson interviewing NLB’s Deck Rating global event highlighting the strength and breadth of the Apprentices as well as the vessel’s Master Captain Sean UK’s maritime industries which happens every two years. Rathbone. Her role was to provide a venue for seminars, meetings and receptions. Participation in LISW was a fantastic opportunity to emphasise the importance of the Maritime Industry to the Planning for the event, which was led by Mike Spain, UK economy and in particular the significant contribution NLB’s Business Support Manager, started well over a made by Scotland. It also gave us the chance to promote year ago and involved just about every NLB Department. NLB’s vital work to protect lives, property and the For the week itself the crew were joined by a team of environment. volunteers from across our organisation who together turned PHAROS into the “go to” LISW venue. “THE LONDON BASED MARITIME

Over the course of the week 10 separate prestigious INDUSTRY AND UK GOVERNMENT events were hosted for the Met Office, Scottish Maritime DEPARTMENTS MIGHT HAVE BEEN Cluster, Isle of Man Maritime, UK Chamber of Shipping, Maritime UK and the Department for Transport (DfT). LARGELY UNAWARE OF NLB AND OUR WORK PRIOR TO US BEING ALONGSIDE The headcount of important and influential visitors was nothing short of impressive and included Prime Minister HMS BELFAST IN SEPTEMBER. BUT DUE Boris Johnson MP, Maritime Minister Nusrat Ghani MP TO THE HARD WORK AND ENTHUSIASM (who actually visited on four separate occasions), Secretary of State for Defence Ben Wallace MP and the OF THE NLB TEAM, THERE IS NO DOUBT Scottish Minister for Rural Affairs and the Natural THAT OUR PROFILE HAS BEEN RAISED Environment, Mairi Gougeon MSP. SIGNIFICANTLY.”

11 Northern Lighthouse Board Journal Winter 2019

London International Shipping Week 2019 in pictures

1

1

3

4

2

4

5

1. PHAROS alongside HMS BELFAST 2. Mike Brew, Sean Rathbone, Nusrat Ghani MP, Phil Day & Mike Bullock 3. PHAROS sailing through the Thames Barrier 4. Prime Minister Boris Johnson with children attending Maritime UK careers event 5. Defence Secretary Ben Wallace MP and the PM with cadets and apprentices 6 6. Event onboard PHAROS

12 More than Lighthouses - www.nlb.org.uk

1

Stevenson Clan Onboard PHAROS Penny Kent

When Penny Kent, great great great granddaughter of Robert Stevenson, on the David line, read that PHAROS was to be in 2 London in September, she jumped at the chance to go aboard with other members of the Stevenson family.

Before our visit, I was looking lighthouses to deliver stores and through family albums and came supplies and inspecting oil and gas across a hand-written letter from rigs. Whilst he was speaking there Robert Stevenson to his son was a comforting lapping and yawing Thomas (father of RLS) in 1829 on of the boat, and a real buzz on the board PHAROS. The letter was Thames, with tourist boats, tugs, telling his son all about the visit to police boats and horns sounding. the . I was astounded at the size of the massive green buoy on deck So, it was wonderful for some of the surrounded by its hoists and ropes. London/Southern-based Stevensons 3 to meet on PHAROS in September And then the guided tour around and I managed to gather a goodly the vessel, which was amazing, clan of 11 adults and two babies! My especially seeing all the latest brother David and my younger sister electronic equipment and Mary were able to join us, together communication systems on the with some of the next two bridge. We were fascinated and generations including Chris Will, a amazed at the technology. My great great grandson on the Charles husband could not be extricated and D. Alan line. Robert would have from all the intricate maps of the been pleased with the ongoing family seas, and details of exactly how to spirit of adventure. raise Tower Bridge. And to complete our wonderful day we were It was thrilling to find PHAROS on presented with an NLB goodie bag! the Thames proudly moored next to 4 HMS BELFAST. PHAROS was a So a huge thanks to Mike for beautiful vessel, much larger than allowing us to visit PHAROS with I had expected and rocking bravely apologies that there were so many 1. BBC’s Ben Thompson with Stuart next to the large battleship. We were of us. We are extremely proud of all MacBrayne, Jordan Wilson, Cameron greeted with coffee and cakes and the Stevenson lighthouses, and all MacMillan lots of friendly faces. Mike Bullock the hard work our family did over the 2. Evening event onboard PHAROS gave a very interesting talk about the last two hundred years. We are also 3. David Grieve, Jordan Wilson, Cameron MacMillan work of NLB and its vital role in the hugely proud of the NLB continuing 4. Caterers George and Craig onboard safety of the seas, emphasising the in the marvellous work securing PHAROS great importance of PHAROS safety in the seas. carrying out buoy work, visiting

13 Northern Lighthouse Board Journal Winter 2019

Heritage Trust Update

Alastair Beveridge, Chairman of the Heritage Trust

he past six months seem to On a similar vein we received a KEEPER’S OF THE LIGHT have gone by in a flash and request for assistance from the the Trust has been active on a Wick Heritage Museum who are We received an application in T November for funding from emerging number of fronts. Most importantly, custodians of the Noss Head our investment portfolio continues catadioptric lens. I visited the playwright, Izzy Gray. Izzy’s debut play ’Keepers of the Light’ is inspired to show reasonable growth despite museum last year with Mike Bullock by her late grandfather’s profession the current market uncertainty and and Mike Brew and we were most as a Keeper. we have been able to offer further impressed, particularly with the financial and technical support to a display incorporating this enormous The play asks whether men today number of projects. lens and other NLB related material. can really fathom what life must have The machinery for the lens is now been like as a Keeper 100 years ago, We have a continuing dialogue with in need of refurbishment and Colin in a time before radio communica- Breasclete Community Association Dingwall will be helping out with tion and with only their colleagues (Urras an Taighe Mhoir) to help them technical advice on how this work and the sound of the night’s sea for establish their Flannan Isles museum should be managed. company. in the former Lighthouse Keepers accommodation, which the trust are We also continue to support the The play takes us through the various now in the final stages of purchasing. work of the Museum of Scottish theories that have emerged over the Lighthouses at . The years as to fate of the Keepers from Once the transfer of ownership is first of the two flags made by Jane the Flannans. Could the men have complete we will be in a position to Stevenson has been restored and succumbed to a tragic accident? Did help the Association as they develop the Trust has agreed to help with the something more sinister happen? Is the museum in its new home. In costs of the second flag. there more to this mysterious island the meantime we’ve provided them than meets the eye? with copies of drawings showing the The third and final phase of the oral While answers might not be found, original layout of the keepers history project has now resumed. the audience will be taken on a accommodation. The volunteer interviews are voyage, coloured both with tales of continuing and the plan is to have remembrance and conjecture, and Our Patron, The Princess Royal this final stage finished by the end of with equal lashings of humour and visited the museum in July. Trish March. We can then draw together suspense. We are delighted to be Donaldson (pictured below) was the three groups and think about able to support the play which will be there to represent the Trust and NLB. how best to make a selection of the premiered next year at the following oral transcripts which will eventually venues: be published on the NLB website. Saturday 25 April, 8pm Our chair project The Studio, Capital Theatres, Edinburgh continues and next on the list are the Friday 1 May, 7.30 pm boardroom chairs. Those of you who An Lanntair, Stornoway have sat on these particular chairs for any length of time will appreciate the Tuesday 5 May, 7.30 pm The Garrison, Lerwick urgency in completing the restoration so they can no longer be considered Friday 8 May, 7.30 pm as instruments of torture. I for one The Theatre, Kirkwall am looking forward to their speedy Saturday 9 May 7.30 pm return! Town Hall, Stromness

14 More than Lighthouses - www.nlb.org.uk

Robert Stevenson’s Silver Cup

We were contacted by a member of the Stevenson family in October, offering us the loan of a magnificent silver cup (pictured), whose inscription tells a very interesting story. The cup was presented to Robert Stevenson by members of Archiving our Lighthouse History the Wernerian Society of Edinburgh (a learned society interested in the Trish Donaldson, Compliance Officer broad field of natural history) as a thank you for a voyage made in At the beginning of the year we The project has followed strict September 1810: started to retrieve and review more principles on identifying what we than a thousand boxes of NLB should retain and how it should be “To Robert Stevenson esq. archive material. Our small team preserved. We have placed items Engineer for the Northern Lights. (Melissa and Anna pictured above) we wish to retain for historic A small testimony of respect and have sorted, catalogued and where purposes, with the bodies most friendship from John Barclay MD, appropriate stored the bulk of the capable of preserving and Charles Oliphant WS and Patrick material. Any paperwork of no storing the originals, within Neill Esq, Secy to the Wernerian historic value has been securely their appropriately controlled Society Edinburgh. Who through his disposed of. environments, whilst making the generous politeness had in Sept 1810 content available to the public. an opportunity of visiting the Giants We have located some fantastic Causeway in , a number of finds, such as the bound report Since the start of the project we the including Staffa and commissioned on the state of the have placed materials with: the North of Scotland, and who long lighthouses in 1835 with its shall remember the many happy wonderful technical drawings. • National Records of Scotland hours which during that period they This is now part of the collection of passed in his company on Sea and books owned by the Heritage Trust; • Historic Environment Scotland Shore.” a range of documents including • National Library of Scotland a number of blueprints related to Robert Stevenson and the PHAROS IX - the last steam ship we • Scottish Moving Image Archive Commissioners undertook an annual commissioned - which have now • Ballast Trust (a Scottish voyage to inspect existing been placed in the care of the engineering archive) lighthouses and to identify where National Records of Scotland; the new stations might be required. original report and witness The project has just expanded its Presumably, John Barclay and his statements from the enquiry in remit to examining and assessing colleagues joined the Lighthouse to the Keepers disappearance historic and current digital records, Yacht for the 1810 trip. Having from the Flannans, also now with and will follow similar principles and checked records online it appears the National Records of Scotland; procedures so that we can retain, that Robert Stevenson became a and film footage of the 1956 locate and make available artefacts member of the Wernerian Society Commissioners Inspection voyage whilst safely preserving them. on 13 May 1809. This was during his which is with Scottish Moving oversight of the construction of the Image Archive for preservation and . digitisation.

15 Northern Lighthouse Board Journal Winter 2019

Museum of Scottish Lighthouses Lynda McGuigan and Michael Strachan

Following an extremely busy and successful summer season things are starting to slow down here in .

isitor numbers were up during received four stamps (one is pictured the first half of the season below) which were described as wax Vwhich means an increase in seals for sealing letters. However, our income allowing us to continue we noted that if they were used for our important work caring for our that purpose all the numbering recognised collection of national would be back to front! We now significance. The conservation work believe they may be button on the Bell Rock flags embroidered samplers – perhaps presented to the by Jane Stevenson is now complete Commissioners so they could inspect and by the time you read this article the detail of new dies. They certainly the flags will be back at the museum look like the standard NLB buttons and will hopefully be out on display which had been used from as early soon. focus on the lighthouse itself, the as 1868. guidebook explores our nationally Plans are afoot to rebuild the recognised collection of lighthouse If readers have any better answers North lens; readers may remember lenses, all of which were kindly we would love to hear them as our that the optic arrived at our donated by the Northern Lighthouse theory is presently unconfirmed! Museum in February. The first step Board. In all, 26 lenses are featured in the process was to commission with the guidebook giving a little Our aim for the winter is to move a local metal fabricator to make a history of the lens and the lighthouse forward with a new exhibition for the new part of the lens ring which had it came from. At £4 a copy, be sure coming year in addition to building apparently gone missing since its to order yours! Included in the Fair Isle North and Mr Lamont’s removal from the tower. A structural guidebook is our newest lens – Fair cottage which we hope to have engineer has also checked the floor Isle North. completed by May 2020. That will in our exhibition area and given us be a special time for us here at the the all clear to build it. We are continuing to make more Museum of Scottish Lighthouses as discoveries within our older we celebrate our 25th anniversary! A fair bit of work has been carried collections too. In 2005 we See opposite for details. out at the Lighthouse and associated buildings. The castle tower is now looking much better having been painted for the first time in 10 years. The keepers’ cottages are undergoing major repairs with the ultimate aim of setting the 1st Assistant’s cottage back in time to 1963. In that year Mr John Lamont and his family were living in the cottage and we intend to make it his house again!

Earlier this autumn we released our first ever guide book. Rather than

16 More than Lighthouses - www.nlb.org.uk

Save the date to celebrate 25 years of the Museum of Scottish Lighthouses 29 to 30 May 2020

To celebrate this momentous occasion we intend to once again Our anniversary weekend will be held over exhibit a light from the former lighthouse tower at Kinnaird Head 29 to 30 May 2020 and will be another 24-hour affair! and have it manned by former keepers. To book your place (or purchase a guidebook) call us on We have other special plans too and hope to be joined by as many former 01346 511022 or find us on Facebook @LighthouseMus Keepers, lighthouse families, and NLB personnel as possible!

60th Anniversary of the North Carr Lightship and the RNLB Mona

It was 60 years ago, on 8 December, of the Mona, which saved 118 lives 1959, that the RNLB Mona went to in her time, are to be commemorated assist the crew of the North Carr in the town where she was based, Lightship, which having broken free Broughty Ferry. At a new residential of her moorings was left drifting in development, the streets will be severe weather and heavy seas with given names such as Mona Crescent, her Northern Lighthouse Board crew in order to commemorate sunken on board. ships linked to .

The lightship’s crew of six were The North Carr Lightship is currently rescued by helicopter the following owned by Dundee-based maritime morning, but tragically when the charity Taymara, who aim to restore Mona capsized all eight of her crew her as an exhibition space on the were killed. Now, the valiant crews Dundee waterfront.

17 Northern Lighthouse Board Journal Winter 2019

ALK Visits North Coast Lighthouses

Sarah Kerr, Events Co-ordinator, Association of Lighthouse Keepers

n May, sixteen members of the That night we returned to Dunnet at Strathy Point and Holburn Head. Association of Lighthouse Head in the evening to watch the Our thanks go to all involved at NLB IKeepers (ALK) gathered on the lights coming on. We counted nine for facilitating our visits, particularly north coast of Scotland to visit visible lights in total: Tor Ness, Tam Cairns, Ian Sadler and Fiona lighthouses in the area. Cantick Head, Hoxa Head and the Holmes. two lights on , all in Orkney. On the first day, we were warmly Then Stroma, , Noss welcomed by RLK Ian Head and, of course, Sadler at Noss Head Lighthouse with itself. its new light arrangement. On day two Ian gave us tours of both Dunnet On the third day we enjoyed the Head and Duncansby Head towers. adventure of getting to Cape Wrath Within our group was our Lighthouse where we were met by Ian Duff (pictured right), who served the NLB’s Tam Cairns who showed at Duncansby Head during his time us the tower, explained the work as a keeper and we were captivated currently being done there, and by his stories from his time there. answered our questions. Cape Wrath We were all delighted to see the LED is such a unique place to visit and the and lens combination that, at that journey there is a major part of the time, was still under construction – it experience. has been a real pleasure to see that now in operation in a recent short On the final day of the event, we video on social media. visited the former NLB lighthouses

18 More than Lighthouses - www.nlb.org.uk Book Reviews

The British Lighthouse Trail Kinnaird Head: An illustrated A Fascination for Ferries: by Sarah Kerr History Recollections of Major Scottish Whittles Publishing, £18.99 by Micahel A W Strachan Ferry Routes Amberley Publishing, £14.99 by Trevor Boult Ferry Publications, £18.00

The British Lighthouse Trail provides Kinnaird Head Lighthouse is the only The author is a retired Merchant a comprehensive listing of all lighthouse in the world to be built Navy navigating officer who served lighthouses in Scotland, , into a castle. Originally constructed on many of the major Scottish Wales, Northern Ireland, the Isle of in 1571 by Sir Alexander Fraser, the ferry routes; from that of the North Man and Channel Islands. The author castle towered over his new town Channel to Ireland, and the set off on a quest in 2012 to visit all of Fraserburgh with Scotland’s Nothern and Western Isles of lighthouses around the British forgotten university built in its Scotland. From a child, he also coastline only to find that there shadow. For 200 years this small travelled these routes as a were many more lighthouses to be tower played host to lairds, lords and passenger. The book features and discovered. Jacobites before abandonment in illustrates personal and professional 1750. recollections throughout a fifty-year Over 600 lighthouses are featured period with Sealink, CalMac and from the perilous beauty of The castle was saved from ruin in NorthLink, to name a few. ’s 1787 when the newly formed to the elegant serenity of Jersey’s Northern Lighthouse Board NLB’s former vessel FINGAL was Corbière Lighthouse. Complete with transformed it into their first Scottish used by the author as a platform for helpful maps highlighting the location lighthouse. Every Stevenson of every lighthouse in each region engineer visited and left their mark taking pictures of Stena Line and and colour photography of a broad on the site, while a never-ending CalMac ferries in passing and is selection of our nation’s most weird watch of keepers kept the light featured in a number of images and wonderful aids to navigation flashing for 200 years. throughout the book. There are also throughout, this book is a fantastic copious descriptions of lighthouses guide to visiting and seeing some of With automation in 1991 there was a in Scotland. our nation’s most majestic, historical second abandonment of the old and isolated buildings. tower, until it made its latest transition from lighthouse to museum.

19 Northern Lighthouse Board Journal Winter 2019

The Keeper of Eilean Glas Peter Mackay

Former Chair of the Heritage Trust, Peter Mackay, read with interest the article on Eilean Glas Lighthouse featured in the Summer Journal but Peter felt there was more to the story. Here, Peter tells us why Eilean Glas has a place in Scottish history as being one of the first where there is a contemporary description of the life and character of the Keeper.

Print of Eilean Glas by William Daniell and right Eilean Glas in 2019

illiam Daniell was an artist “Scalpa Lighthouse became our duties attached to it are lowly; but if who published his lavishly head quarters for the night. Few he discharges them well, he may on Willustrated account in six abodes can be considered more lighting his beacon for the last time, volumes of a “Voyage Round the lonely and dispiriting, yet the man rest in the tranquil consciousness Coasts of Great Britain“. This began on constant duty here seemed so of having performed an important in 1813 and by 1815 he had reached fitted to his station, either by natural service to humanity.” Scotland; between then and 1822 temperament or long habit, as to he produced a wonderful series of fulfil his duties not only without Not a bad epitaph. The Keeper in 157 aquatints of Scottish mountains, repining, but even cheerfully. With question was Alexander Reid. NLB lochs and towns beginning with few sources of amusement and with records show that he had been Caerlaverock on the Solway and little society, except that of his wife appointed as the first Keeper in 1788 finishing at the Bass Rock and and two boatmen, he had appar- and retired 35 years later in 1823. He Dunbar. His prints include the ently effected that adaptation of his was then described by Robert lighthouses at Kinnaird Head, wants to his means, which wiser Stevenson as “weather beaten and Pentland Skerries, Start Point on men than he, if placed in similar stiff by so long an exposure on the Sanday in Orkney and Eilean Glas. circumstances, would have some Point of Glass”. As you can see from the print of difficulty in attaining.“ the latter above, compared with the Robert Stevenson persuaded the modern view, his illustrations are “Exposed for a succession of Commissioners to grant Reid an both accurate and elegant and are winters to the tyrannous annuity of 40 guineas a year. So, still keenly sought after. breathing of the north, his bodily Reid was an early example of what frame seemed to have imparted its became the NLB tradition of But what really fascinated Daniell hardihood to the constitution of his dedication and long service. And in on his visit to Eilean Glas, his first mind; he appeared to be steeled like the centuries that followed, his Scottish light, was the insight into a stoic against all contingencies. He temperament as described by the character of the light keeper. had never been cheated of an hour’s Daniell, would be widely replicated sleep by the stirrings of ambition, across the NLB lighthouse estate. The following edited quotations from the thirst of lucre, or the corrosion his account published in1820 of his of care. His capacities are limited; visit in July 1818 are worth repeating: his lot is an obscure one, and the

20 More than Lighthouses - www.nlb.org.uk

Black Bequest Fund

The Black Bequest Fund has now The charity offers practical, financial Lighthouse closed. However, NLB employees, and emotional support. For example, past and present, may apply for if you’re struggling with debt which Coffee Mornings support to the Civil Service Benevo- in turn is putting a strain on your Join former NLB colleagues lent Fund so the closure of the Trust relationship, the Charity can help. on the SECOND FRIDAY of will not prevent applications being each month for coffee and a made and supported. If you’re caring for a relative who catch up. needs specialist equipment or The remaining funds will be designat- support and the situation is beginning The group meet at 10.30am ed within the Civil Service Benevo- to take its toll on your own mental in the Undercroft Cafe, of lent Fund for the use of former NLB health, the Charity is there for you. St Andrews & St Georges Lighthouse Keepers. West Church, George Street, For more information on the Charity Edinburgh. You can also contact The Charity for for Civil Servants, visit the Charity’s Civil Servants which supports all civil website www.foryoubyyou.org.uk or The Coffee Mornings provide a contact point for former servants, past and present. call them on 0800 056 2424. and current NLB employees (and close associates) to come together for fellowship and conversation. And, of Peter Gellatly is a lecturer at New College Lanarkshire in course, to put the NLB Coatbridge, member of the Association of Lighthouse Keepers service and the world to and Scottish Country Dancer. After a recent stay at St Abbs Head rights. lighthouse cottages last year Peter started to work on dance steps to create a lighthouse themed Scottish Country Dance. The coffee, tea and cakes are excellent and those who come along to join in the chat The dance, a reel, was finalised with to become a Lighthouse Keeper and to reminiscence, very help from Royal Scottish Country following in his father’s footsteps, much enjoy themselves! Dancing Society Hamilton Branch serving at the Bell Rock Lighthouse member Alison Robertson and was near among many others So do come and join us for created in dedication to Lighthouse until his retirement when lighthouses this informal and relaxed Keepers and in particular to Brian became fully automated. gathering. Johnson of Shetland, former Keeper and current Retained Peter’s visit to Chicken Rock Lighthouse Keeper with NLB. Lighthouse (pictured), was the first time he had the opportunity to take “It was an unforgettable Members of the Hamilton Branch close up photographs of one of his experience arriving at the practiced the dance and have favourite lighthouses. It was an enjoyed dancing the new steps. A amazing experience to see first hand remote structure, you can only video of the dance will be created the work on this magnificent image what life was like then uploaded to YouTube. The dance structure. In particular it was great constructing this or staying at it will also be shared and danced with looking back at the Calf of Man and for up to six weeks.” members of the RSCDS around the lining up the lighthouses. world. In May, Peter took part in a TV series During the first week of May, Peter called ‘The World’s Most Beautiful visited Chicken Rock Lighthouse at Railways’ with members of the ALK. the Isle of Man built by Thomas and David Stevenson. He recently They travelled from Edinburgh found out a little part of the history of stopping at the Forth Rail Bridge to the lighthouse and in particular that it talk about the heritage, engineering went on fire in December 1960. and loss of life before embarking on Peter had the privilege to recently a rail journey along Scotland’s East chat with the former Keeper’s son Coast to the Malc Anderson who told him about at Arbroath. They also got a boat his fathers accident during the fire out to the Bell Rock Lighthouse to and life at the keepers cottages on admire the wonderful structure at the Isle of Man. Malc also went on low tide.

21 Northern Lighthouse Board Journal Winter 2019

Diane at Bressay Diane at Bressay

“SCOTLAND’S LIGHTHOUSES ARE ICONIC FEATURES OF OUR COASTS AND SEAS WITH RICH ASSOCIATIONS WITH THOSE WHO HAVE DESIGNED THEM, WHO HAVE LIVED AND WORKED IN THEM AND THOSE WHO HAVE AND CONTINUE TO RELY ON THEM”

22 More than Lighthouses - www.nlb.org.uk

HES to review Scotland’s Historic Lighthouses

Lighthouses up and down the country will be reviewed for listing as part of Scotland’s Year of Coasts and Waters 2020.

istoric Environment Scotland the 1970s and 1980s, so we’re years old but they continue to serve (HES) has announced it will really excited to look at these the same purpose as when they Hundertake a review of our structures for the first time and were built – to guide all mariners listed and unlisted lighthouses. explore their potential. safely through Scottish and Isle of Man waters. As part of the year-long project, in “By reviewing and updating the partnership with NLB, HES will records of these fascinating “It will be enormously helpful to update existing listed building buildings, we will be able to offer determine the appropriate listed records for lighthouses and explore more information about what makes status for our lights built in the unlisted lighthouses to determine them special to help their future care 1970s and 1980s. Architecturally, if they meet the criteria to become and maintenance.” they might be very different listed. Research will be undertaken structures to the Stevenson using information and photographs Jane Ryder, Chair of HES Board lighthouses but they are very much a from NLB’s collection held in the said: part of our lighthouse heritage.” National Record of the Historic Environment. The collaboration “Scotland’s lighthouses are iconic Since the building of Scotland’s first will be a major project throughout features of our coasts and seas with lighthouse in the 17th century, Scotland’s Year of Coasts and Waters rich associations with those who lighthouses have played a crucial role 2020. have designed them, who have lived in ensuring safe passage for ships. and worked in them and those who One of the most famous is the Bell Buildings listed as having ‘special have and continue to rely on them. Rock Lighthouse which was built architectural or historic interest’ 1808-11 by Robert Stevenson and its form part of the nation’s rich “With the Year of Coasts and Waters construction was an epic feat. It is heritage and help to tell the story of encouraging people to explore listed at category A. Scotland’s past. Listing celebrates Scotland’s coasts we hope that our these buildings and ensures their project with NLB will highlight the For more information visit the HES special interest is considered in the importance that our nation’s unique website: www.historicenvironment. planning process. lighthouses have as part of our com- scot/about-us/news/review-of-scot- munity heritage as well as our wider land-s-historic-lighthouses/ Philip Robertson, Deputy Head of maritime history.” Designations at HES, said: Mike Bullock, Chief Executive of “There are around 150 listed light- the Northern Lighthouse Board houses throughout the country, said: and they are not only wonderful landmarks but also a testament to “We place a great deal of importance Scotland’s exceptional engineering on the preservation and sharing of achievements. our remarkable history and we are delighted to be working on this “There are a range of lighthouses project with HES during Scotland’s which have never been assessed for Year of Coasts and Waters. Many of listing, including some dating from our lighthouses are now over 200

23 Northern Lighthouse Board Journal Winter 2019

1 Lighthouses of the Isle of Man

David McKee

Based in Seattle, David McKee is an internationally active agribusiness consultant. The 3rd generation descendant of a Pacific Northwest Lighthouse Keeper, he visits lighthouses at every opportunity during his travels. In May this year he spent a few days checking out the lighthouses of the Isle of Man

rriving and departing by sea Earlier that afternoon I had driven to Rock Lighthouse, established in 1875 can be a source of serendipity the rugged southern end of the Isle by the second generation David and Ain a lighthouse quest. This of Man thinking I could easily hire a lighthouse proved to be especially so for the Isle boat to cross over to Calf of Man, engineers. I read later that these of Man. Despite a length of only 32 but the spectacular high cliffs of the beacons protect one of the busiest miles, it boasts six large lighthouses nature reserve quickly convinced shipping lanes in the . with much pedigree, all having been me otherwise. Instead, I had to settle Chicken Rock Light had been built designed over a span of nearly 100 for a distant view of just the lantern due to the frequent fog enshrouding years by three generations of the room of the lighthouse sticking out the Calf of Man. On the first leg of Stevenson lighthouse engineering above the hilltop from the her maiden voyage in April 1912 from family. uninhabited islet’s southern side. the Belfast shipyard to Southampton, the Titanic may have passed these I had arrived on the Isle of Man by But just hours later as the ship lights. the fast catamaran car ferry which approached from the east, a row of brought me from Liverpool to three large structures stood On the approach to Calf of Man we Douglas, the capital, in just under silhouetted on the southward sloping had already sailed past Langness three hours. The iconic Douglas Head ridgeline of Calf of Man: the large Light on the southeastern side of the Lighthouse has graced a rocky out- lighthouse whose lantern room I had island. It is situated on Berwick Point crop here since the mid-19th century. glimpsed and the two lighthouses at the end of a long, low, narrow, below it. treeless peninsula occupied by a golf Two days later I boarded the Isle of course and nature reserve. Man Steam Packet Company’s older, And for yet another surprise, on a slower, sister ship of the Manannan, dangerous rocky shoal just one mile I had started my day in the town of the ‘Ben My Chree’ for the four and a off the Calf of Man, stood the 44 Douglas going up and down stairs half hour voyage to Belfast. meter tall granite tower of Chicken cut into a cliff to reach the Douglas

24 More than Lighthouses - www.nlb.org.uk

Head Lighthouse. It is a 20 meter tall tower at 32 meters elevation, established in 1857. The main Keeper’s house turned out to be a privately owned vacation rental. Conveniently, the guests had just departed so Nikki the manager showed me the four well-appointed bedrooms and large living room and kitchen. The tower is off limits to guests as it remains the property of the Northern Lighthouse Board. The building that houses the foghorn has a different owner who has converted it into another holiday rental called Foghorn Cottage. 2

The previous day I had time to linger The Isle of Man lights had been In 2016, UNESCO designated all of at both Maughold Head and Point automated beginning with Chicken the Isle of Man as a ‘biosphere of Ayre lights. After a rainy morning Rock in 1961 and concluding with the reserve’, the first entire country to ticking off some of the Isle of Man’s idyllic Langness Light in 1996. gain that status. main tourist sites and just exploring, I continued north and parked my car As is the case for several coastal I learned this from Wikipedia, which in Maughold village. Passing a areas of Scotland, NLB does have a says nothing about the Isle of Man’s graveyard with tall headstones, I Retained Lighthouse Keeper on the lighthouses. I aim to resolve this by reached Maughold Head on foot Isle of Man for whom it is a part-time adding a paragraph to the cyber climbing stone walls and crossing job to keep all the lights in working encyclopedia’s Isle of Man entry. a number of pastures full of sheep order. Watch this space! ready for shearing. All but the Douglas Head light are Photos courtesy of David McKee The lighthouse was designed by the 1. situated in nature reserves which are 2. Winkie Lighthouse Tower third generation of the illustrious worth visiting on their own merits. 3. Calf of Man Scottish family - David A. and Charles Stevenson. The 23 meter tall tower with 82 steps was completed in 1914. With 65 meters elevation it is set on a ledge below the Keepers’ quarters, such that the lantern room is at eye level from the Keeper’s cottage windows. The private owner’s renovation of these buildings was very much a work in progress both inside and out.

The Point of Ayre Light features a number of low stone buildings and walls surrounding the 30 meter tall tower that stands on ground only two meters above the high tide mark. Both Calf of Man and Point of Ayre lights were established in 1818 based on the design of Robert Stevenson.

When it comes to lighthouses my modus operandi is first discovery and then research. Upon returning home I went to NLB’s excellent website 3 to get the history and basic data on individual lights.

25 Northern Lighthouse Board Journal Winter 2019

NAFC Light the North Student Awards Clan Cancer Support, a cancer charity based in Aberdeen has teamed up with ‘Wild in Art’, the company behind the successful Wild Dolphins trail and Oor Wullie’s Bucket trail, to create a Lighthouse trail in north-east Scotland.

‘Light the North’ lighthouse trail, will synonymous with the areas we take people on a cultural tour of the support. With over 20,000 people north-east, between September and living with cancer in the region and November 2020. Between 30 and people living longer with cancer, Magnus Thompson with Captain 70, 2.5-metre high lighthouse CLAN’s support is more vital than George , former Chair of sculptures will be installed in ever. NLB’s Board of Commissioners Aberdeen, , Moray, Orkney and Shetland to form an “We provide the emotional and he NAFC Marine Centre interactive trail. practical support needed to ensure is an educational people’s wellbeing needs are taken Tand scientific institute The trail aims to provide a “light in care of at all stages of their cancer and is part of the University the dark” for those with cancer and journey. of the Highland and Islands. their families, while raising vital funds The Centre provides a range for CLAN. It is hoped the initiative, “We are proud to bring the trail to of services relevant to the will help the charity to raise the communities that CLAN operates in maritime industries. annual £2.5 million it needs for and hope the lighthouse trail and our running costs. partnership with Wild in Art will allow We are proud to sponsor us to help more people affected by two award categories in the Former Chair of our Board of cancer.” Centre’s annual awards – Commissioners, Alistair MacKenzie, Deck Cadet and Engineering was at the official launch at CLAN Cadet. House in November. This year, Magnus Thompson At the launch, CLAN’s Chief received the NLB prize for Executive Dr Colette Backwell said: a Deck Cadet. Magnus is sponsored by Northlink “The lighthouse is a symbol that Ferries through Clyde Marine. reflects what we do and is

The NLB prize for an Engineering Cadet went Message from the skies to Corey Forest. Corey has During the month of January, the Four letters by well-known Scottish completed two years of his front of our building at 84 George writers will be projected onto cadetship and is sponsored Street will become an art installation buildings or landmarks around by Solstad Offshore through for a literary and video project. Edinburgh that have a maritime or Clyde Marine. Corey couldn’t The project is a co-commission by coastal theme, location or history. attend the awards as he was Edinburgh’s and away at sea. Edinburgh International Book The letter to be projected onto Festival. our building is by author Charlotte Both Magnus and Corey Runcie. The installation will run from were awarded the prizes for A core theme for Edinburgh’s 1 to 25 January 2020 from 4pm to their academic achievement, Hogmanay 2019/2020 will be 10pm each day. excellence in assessment inspired by Scotland’s Year of Coasts and consistent professional and Waters and will look at Scotland performance. and Edinburgh’s relationship with Find out more at: www.edinburgh- itself and the rest of the world as a shogmanay.com/whats-on/message- coastal nation and city. from-the-skies

26 More than Lighthouses - www.nlb.org.uk

Open Day at Lighthouse

n 1867 the sea-faring community For one day only we opened Scurdie of Ferryden made representations Ness Lighthouse to the public as FACT! Ito the Commissioners of Northern part of Angus Coastal Festival. And At some of the isolated stations Lighthouses to have a light on a sunny Sunday in September, the war added immensely to the established on Montrose Point at the 110 people climbed to the top of the Keepers work. At Scurdie Ness, one rock-bound shore stretching between tower. Many queued for hours and Keeper had to paint the whole the Bell Rock and Girdle Ness. This the event was so popular we sadly tower black so that it would not had been the scene of numerous had to turn people away. provide a day mark for the enemy. shipwrecks and great loss of life. Thank you to our neighbours at Scurdie Ness Lighthouse was built Scurdie Ness Lighthouse for helping by David and Thomas Stevenson. It to make this happen and to Engineer was first lit on Tuesday 1 March 1870 Tam Cairns and RLK Donald Chicken Rock Lighthouse at 1800 hours amidst cheers from Cameron for the tours and talks. the multitude gathered on the links And a big thank you to Carol for the and the sands. cakes, teas and coffees!

27 Northern Lighthouse Board Journal Winter 2019

Minister for Rural Affairs and the Natural Environment visits NLB Oban

Mairi Gougeon MSP, Minister for the Minister was onboard PHAROS the Minister on the work we do Rural Affairs and the Natural during London International Shipping to protect lives, property and the Environment within the Scottish Week. The Oban visit included a tour environment through the provision Government, visited our Oban base of the depot to see the facilities and of maritime aids to navigation and to in September. The invitation was to meet some of NLB’s team. It was explain how we contribute to made earlier in the month when a great opportunity to brief the Scotland’s economy.

Lighthouses in Chile are managed by We were delighted to welcome Inspiring and engaging young people the Chilean Navy and we welcomed Board members from the Met Office in our work is important to us our Chilean Navy colleagues to to NLB HQ. Our Commissioner especially in raising awareness of Scotland to spend time with us on Rob Woodward is also Chair of the STEM subjects and opportunities POLE STAR. It was a great learning Met Office. available. So we were delighted to experience for both parties. welcome children from Schools Out Oban to NLB Oban during August. They could be our lighthouse engineers of the future!

28 More than Lighthouses - www.nlb.org.uk

Oban Winter Festival

Photo credit Eszter Domina

If you live in Oban you might have been surprised to see NLB buoys and lights popping up all over town and in shop windows during November. This was thanks to our Oban team who spent a good few weeks getting the lights and buoys ready, as well as doing their day job, for the Oban Winter Festival.

And on the weekend of 16 and 17 November, as part of the Festival, we opened up our Oban base to visitors. The buoy store hosted live music and stalls and our vessel POLE STAR also welcomed the public onboard.

Thank you to the 600 people who visited us over the weekend. And a big thank you to all staff who gave up their weekend to make our involvement with the Festival such a success.

Photo credit Eszter Domina

29 Northern Lighthouse Board Journal Winter 2019

Spotlight on our people

For as long as he can remember, James Addison, our Electrical Engineer Apprentice has always had a dream of being a skydiver.

BONAR BARCLAY RUNS BOSTON MARATHON Congratulations to Bonar Barclay, Senior Technician based in Shetland who ran the Boston Marathon this year in just over 3 hours. A fantastic achievement!

Skydiving has been a dream of mine As of mid-October, I completed 19 since I was little but I’ve never acted jumps and have just qualified for my upon it until recently. A license which allows me to jump anywhere in the world. A quick start However, me being me, I decided a to a dream hobby thanks to GoJump, tandem jump wasn’t good enough. the AFF School. So I threw myself into the deep end and signed up for a training James is organising a programme to begin solo jumping charity skydiving trip for NLB with instructors, to work towards staff next year. If you would gaining a skydiving license. like to take up this exciting In July, I completed my first jump challenge and raise money for from 15,000ft and since then I’ve charity at the same time, please been hooked! get in touch with James.

Karl Davies, ICT Helpdesk Officer We would love to feature more of our staff’s charity (pictured above) completed the Poppyscotland Sportive challenge challenges or amazing achievements in the Journal. and raised £265 for the charity. Please contact Fiona Holmes with your news - Poppyscotland provides life-changing support for the armed forces [email protected] community. Well done Karl!

30 More than Lighthouses - www.nlb.org.uk

SUSAN CALMAN’S SECRET RLK MEETING IN INVERNESS SCOTLAND AND OUR LIVES WITH MICHELLE MCMANUS

Does Craig Pake, NLB’s Planning Engineer, have a face for radio or TV?

Although lighthouses are no longer Our RLKs are based all over Scotland manned, they are still looked after and the Isle of Man so it was great by a number of part-time Retained to get so many of them together in Lighthouse Keepers (RLKs). Inverness during October with other NLB staff. NiCd BATTERY TRAINING NLB technicians and engineers attended a five day NiCd battery training course in Oskarshamn, Sweden earlier in the year. Two members of the Chilean Navy were also on the course. You decide... when you watch ‘Susan Calman’s Secret Scotland’ on Channel 5 and listen to ‘Our Lives’ with Michelle McManus on BBC Radio Scotland.

Craig was interviewed by Susan Calman at Pladda Lighthouse talking about the history of the light, earlier this year. The episode should be aired on Channel 5 in the new year. And last month Craig chatted to Michelle McManus about his career with NLB.

Keep an eye on our social media channels for news of when the programmes will be aired. DGPS TRAINING We were delighted to welcome Craig in the BBC’s Edinburgh studio technicians from and Irish Lights to NLB HQ in October for DGPS training. Images show technicians working on the DGPS training rack

31 Northern Lighthouse Board Journal Winter 2019

Commissioners

The Northern Lighthouse Board’s constitution dates right back to 1786 when the Board of Commissioners was established. The Commissioners appointed at the time were the law agents of , Sheriffs of coastal counties and the Lord Provosts and Provosts of Scottish cities and towns whose mercantile interests were involved. Over the years the numbers of the Commissioners varied, and further changes were brought about as a of local government and re-organisation.

he Board’s makeup remains remarkably similar today Twith the addition of a number of co-opted Non-Executives who provide business and mariner expertise and includes Representa- tives nominated by the Department for Transport, Transport Scotland and the Isle of Man Government.

The 19 Commissioners support our Chief Executive and Directors through a number of Committees and Boards providing oversight and strategic direction. Earlier this year, three of our Commissioners spent time on POLE STAR to experience our day to day operations first-hand.

HUGH SHAW, ELECTED BY THE COMMISSIONERS Hugh joined POLE STAR at Greenock “THE MASTER AND CREW MADE MY VISIT, AND for a buoy maintenance and inspection trip within the Firth of MY FIRST COMMISSIONER’S TRIP, A MOST Clyde. In addition to his time on the bridge, Hugh was also given an ENJOYABLE EXPERIENCE AND ALL ON BOARD extensive tour of the vessel including MADE ME FEEL EXTREMELY WELCOME. I WOULD the engine room and storage areas. LIKE TO TAKE THIS OPPORTUNITY TO THANK “We departed around 9am on 5 THEM ONCE AGAIN.” March and headed down the coast to Irvine Bay via the Hunterston We then departed Irvine Bay and en route back to Greenock. The Channel. On arrival at Irvine Bay the headed up towards the Kyles of Bute short trip was very informative and crew very impressively lifted a buoy, and anchored to await sufficient I was extremely impressed with the cleaned, checked and placed it back darkness to the navigation dedication and professionalism of all in the water in less than 30 minutes. lights in the East Kyles and all others on board the NLV POLE STAR.”

32 More than Lighthouses - www.nlb.org.uk

ROB WOODWARD – APPOINTED “WHAT A GREAT WAY TO SPEND A WEEKEND. BY THE DEPARTMENT FOR MANY THANKS TO ERIC AND THE MAGNIFICENT TRANSPORT I was privileged to join Eric Smith and NLB CREW FOR MAKING ME SO WELCOME AND his crew aboard NLV POLE STAR in GIVING ME AN APPRECIATION OF THE SKILL July to see the intricate work of buoy maintenance first hand. We sailed AND PROFESSIONALISM OF NLB’S BUOY down the Clyde from Greenock on a MAINTENANCE DUTIES.” Scottish Water contract to maintain their sewerage outfall buoys - not exactly glamorous but nevertheless essential work.

The sense of teamwork aboard ship was fantastic with all members of the crew playing essential roles as we delicately lifted, inspected, cleaned and replaced the now gleaming yellow buoys.

After a full day’s duties we anchored off Croy Shore under the imposing Culzean Castle. The galley was in full swing and we enjoyed a hearty curry before chatting to the crew members who clearly take so much pride in their roles.

More buoys on Sunday morning before returning to my local port, Ayr, on board the, aptly named, work boat, FINGAL.

ELAINE WILKINSON, APPOINTED “IT WAS GREAT TO SEE SUCH TEAMWORK AND I BY TRANSPORT SCOTLAND HAVE TOTAL RESPECT FOR THE CREW. THANKS Spending time on POLE STAR in FOR MAKING ME FEEL SO WELCOME AND I DID May gave me such an insight into APPRECIATE THE GREAT WEATHER (PROBABLY the risks and health and safety issues involved in maintaining and replacing THE BEST DAY ON THE WEST COAST THIS YEAR buoys - such an important part of the WITH SMOOTH SEAS!) BUT REALISE THAT THE business which doesn’t always have the same profile as lighthouses. WORK WOULD BE EVEN MORE CHALLENGING IN NORMAL WEATHER CONDITIONS!”

33 Northern Lighthouse Board Journal Winter 2019

RETIREMENTS

BABY NEWS!

Congratulations to Scott Turnbull and his partner Mel on the birth of their daughter Macy. Macy Turnbull was born on 11 August. Scott is pictured below with Mel and his mother onboard POLE STAR. That’s three generations of the same family on the vessel!

After 40 years of service with NLB, friends and colleagues said farewell to Muppet Manson, Bosun, who retired in November.

Congratulations to Bonar Barclay and wife Mandy on the birth of their daughter Niamh Maggie Thomasina Barclay who arrived on Friday 27 September.

Davy Gallagher, Ship’s Caterer also retired in November. He’d worked for NLB for 15 years and was given a great send off by the crew.

And finally, congratulations to Steven Campbell and his partner Isla on the birth of their son Blake Campbell who arrived on Friday 18 October.

34 More than Lighthouses - www.nlb.org.uk

APPOINTMENTS

John Ritchie Anna Beckett Gavin Spence Electrical Electronic Technician, Electrical Engineering Technician, Electrical/Electronic Technician, Edinburgh Edinburgh Edinburgh

I was born in Edinburgh but now I spent the last five and a half years I was brought up in Kilmarnock and live in a small village in East Lothian. living and working in Bristol at Arup after leaving school I did an electrical Following my completion of high in the buildings team. I worked on apprenticeship with the Ayrshire and school in 2011 I went to Edinburgh a range of projects from a Crossrail Arran Health Board. After completing Napier to study Energy and station to education buildings and my apprenticeship I moved to Environmental Engineering. I dropped even trying to turn a Victorian jail London to work for Ford. I’ve also out of university after around six into a hotel! spent time working in Latvia, Canada months and I took a part time job at and Bosnia. In Bosnia I worked for a Tesco. Coming to work at NLB means civilian contractor as a maintenance electrician providing maintenance During this time I began to explore a return to Scotland as I studied to the British Army camps in Banja the possibility of completing an Electrical and Mechanical Luka and Sipovo. You certainly learn apprenticeship and started as Engineering at Strathclyde to be resourceful working in those Electrical Engineering Apprentice University in Glasgow. I’ve only conditions! with the in been here for a few weeks but August of 2013. After completing so far but I’ve been made to feel I returned to the Lothians in 2001 the apprenticeship I moved into an very welcome and everyone has to work as a Data Centre Technician Electrical Maintenance Engineer role been incredibly friendly. I’m looking with RBS. After being made at HMP Edinburgh. I worked for the forward to getting out to site in the redundant, I worked for a short time prison service for almost six years not too distant future. at the new hospital site that’s being before joining NLB. built to replace Edinburgh’s Sick Kids. Since I started I have been on a few Outside work I enjoy travelling and I joined NLB in June this year and so maintenance and breakdown trips just before joining NLB I was in far the people I’ve met have been and visited locations such as the Bell Japan, where I experienced my friendly and supportive. I’ve already Rock, Haskier and The Isle of May to first ever live rugby match and saw been to , Sanda, name a few. I am really enjoying my Scotland win 61-0! Cape Wrath, Girdle Ness, , time with NLB and looking forward Oban and Scurdie Ness, flown on the to seeing where the next few years My husband and I are currently helicopter, and sailed on PHAROS. take me. converting a campervan and our Outside work I enjoy walks with plan is to get out and about and see my wife Lesley and daughter Caitlin more of Scotland. At home I enjoy as well as holidays and working cooking, sewing and playing board with cars - from maintaining to games. cleaning them. I recently purchased a mountain bike so I’m planning on getting a lot fitter over the next few months.

35 Northern Lighthouse Board Journal Winter 2019

APPOINTMENTS APPOINTMENTS

David Jamieson appointed Electrical/Electronic Technician, Shetland

Melanie Weetman appointed Operations Assistant, Oban

Scott Morton appointed 2nd Engineer, NLB Ships

Matthew Craig Price appointed Mechanical Technician, Inverness Karl Davies Anna (Ania) Kwolek ICT Helpdesk Officer, Edinburgh Document Administrator, Edinburgh Robert Tungatt appointed Electrical/Electronic Technician, I started an apprenticeship straight There’s a proverb that says ‘All Shetland from school and worked for roads lead to Rome’. I must seven years in Structural Steel disagree. In my case all roads led Adrian Abraham appointed engineering in Hartlepool. I went on to Edinburgh. Born and raised in Electro Technical Officer, NLB Ships to start my own business supplying Poland, I came to Edinburgh via steel items like lobster pots and Lianne MacIntyre appointed Ireland, Spain and the Scottish Marine Operations Assistant, Oban anchors. I chose to close my Highlands. business after two years and went Anna Lawlor appointed to University in Middlesbrough, My first introduction to NLB was as Chief Caterer, NLB Ships where I completed a BA Honours in a temp working on the archive Marketing. project which had its very interesting Jeffrey Hallam appointed moments. NLB is the place where Caterer, NLB Ships After graduating I headed to you can touch, literally, the history. Edinburgh and worked as a Business It is the place where fiction meets Advisor with Local Authorities. In PROMOTIONS reality. To give you one example, a 2006 I decided to take a career break few weeks before the movie “The and with my partner Laura bought an Christine Middleton appointed old sail boat that needed everything Vanishing” hit the cinemas, we Maintenance Systems Assistant replaced. We set about restoring found some documents and reports about the unexplained Lorna Fraser appointed it and a year and a half later, we Executive Assistant launched on the Clyde and set off disappearance of the three for Greece. Lighthouse Keepers from the Martin Wright appointed Chief Flannan Isles. I am still hoping that Officer the facts were less bloody than the We made it to Greece in 2009 Alasdair Gordon appointed Bosun having stopped in many places along director’s vision. the way. We headed home in 2014 RETIREMENTS and now keep our boat ‘Madison’ in When the Document Administrator Tarbert. position became available I didn’t Davie Gallagher, Ship’s Caterer hesitate before applying for the job. Muppet Manson, Bosun When travelling we would return to And here I am. the UK and get seasonal posts. This resulted in me turning a hobby into a career by doing a range of IT desktop In my free time I like to build LEAVERS support roles, most notably with the lighthouse replicas from paper maché. No, I am joking. I love travel Steven Kennedy, Estates Edinburgh Fringe where I was one of Administrator the IT team between 2009 and 2017. and taking photographs and furniture upcycling. Combining my IT career with DEATHS working for NLB is a dream job I am so excited to start the new chapter of my life in such a great It is with sadness we have to report for me. the following deaths: company with so many fantastic people. Isobel Darling, wife of the late James Darling Robert McKenzie Stephen, former Accountant Jill Bennett, former Secretary to the Board/Assistant to the Chief Executive

36 MarineServices

Over 200 years of service to the mariner Our primary function is to carry out our statutory duties providing Aids to Navigation for the safety of the mariner. However, the Merchant Shipping and Maritime Security Act 1997, allows us to use any spare capacity in the statutory programme to offer marine support services to clients. As the most experienced provider of AtoN services in Scottish and Manx waters, find out how we could support you.

Vessel Services Equipped to levels normally only found in much larger vessels, NLV PHAROS and NLV POLE STAR provide versatile platforms for research, sea trials, hydrographic surveying and other marine support services.

Aids to Navigation provision, maintenance and servicing Our commercial AtoN services include provision of temporary or permanent AtoNs, deployment or removal, solarisation, maintenance servicing and refurbishment. Whether marking a port approach, marine renewable energy sites or a decommissioned oil rig, we can design a solution to suit.

Professional Advisory Services We can provide innovative solutions in the areas of marking decommissoned oil and gas installations, solarisation in extreme climates and littoral engineering solutions.

The Northern Lighthouse Board Marine Base Support is Certificated to:- NLB Oban offers full marine base support facilities, including berthing services, ultra high pressure washing, paint spray booth, electrical and • BS ISO 45001:2018 - Occupational electronic testing and engineering support. Health and Safety Management System

• BS EN ISO 9001:2015 - Quality Management System

• BS EN ISO 14001:2015 - Environmental Management System

• BS EN ISO/IEC 27001:2013 - Information Security Management More than Lighthouses System www.nlb.org.uk The Northern Lighthouse Board is the General Lighthouse Authority responsible for Scotland and the Isle of Man.

PATRON: NORTHERN LIGHTHOUSE BOARD Her Royal Highness The Princess Royal 84 George Street Edinburgh Chair: Mike Brew EH2 3DA Vice Chair: Alastair Beveridge Chief Executive: Mike Bullock Telephone: 0131 473 3100 Director Of Operations: Captain Phillip Day Fax: 0131 220 2093 Director Of Business Services: Mairi Rae E-Mail: [email protected] Website: www.nlb.org.uk Journal produced by Fiona Holmes @northernlighthouseboard @nlb_uk Recycle – once you have finished with your Journal why not pass it on to a friend or recycle it. The paper used for this publication is a recyclable and renewable product. It has been produced using wood sourced from sustainable managed forests. “In Salutem Omnium” For the Safety of All