Makingconnectionswiththerivers oftheMurrayͲDarlingBasin Authors JodiFrawley,ScottNichols,HeatherGoodallandLizBaker. QueenslandcontentinassociationwithZafarSaracandGregRingwood. Citation:Frawley,J.,Nichols,S.,Goodall,H.andBaker,E.(2012)TalkingfishͲmakingconnectionswith theriversoftheMurrayͲDarlingBasin,MurrayͲDarlingBasinAuthority,Canberra. Projectsteeringcommittee TerryKorodaj(MDBA),CameronLay(NSWDPI),ZaferSarac(QldDEEDI),AdrianWells(MDBACommunity StakeholderTaskforce),PeterJackson(MDBANativeFishStrategyadvisor),FernHames(VicDSE)and JonathanMcPhail(PIRSA). ProjectTeam ScottNichols,CameronLay,CraigCopeland,LizBaker(NSWDPI);JodiFrawley,HeatherGoodall(UTS); ZaferSarac,GregRingwood(QldDEEDI);HamishSewell(TheStoryProject);PhilDuncan(Ngnulu Consulting);TerryKorodaj(MDBA);FernHames,PamClunie,SteveSaddlier(VicDSE);JonathanMcPhail, VirginiaSimpson(PIRSA);WillTrueman(researcher). ISBN978Ͳ1Ͳ922068Ͳ56Ͳ9(print),ISBN978Ͳ1Ͳ922068Ͳ57Ͳ6(online) ©MurrayͲDarlingBasinAuthority,2012 PublishedbytheMurrayͲDarlingBasinAuthority(MDBA),Canberra. Graphicalandtextualinformationinthework(withtheexceptionofphotographsandtheMDBAlogo) maybestored,retrievedandreproducedinwholeorinpart,providedtheinformationisnotsoldorused Abbreviations forcommercialbenefitanditssource(MurrayͲDarlingBasinAuthority,TalkingFishProject)is DPI DepartmentofPrimaryIndustries acknowledged. Reproduction for other purposes is prohibited without prior permission of the Murray Ͳ PIRSA PrimaryIndustriesandResourcesSA DarlingBasinAuthorityorthecopyrightholdersinthecaseofphotographs.Totheextentpermittedby law,thecopyrightholders(includingitsemployeesandconsultants)excludeallliabilitytoanypersonfor DENR DepartmentforEnvironmentandNaturalResources(SA) anyconsequences,includingbutnotlimitedtoalllosses,damages,costs,expensesandanyother SARDI SAResearchandDevelopmentInstitute compensation,arisingdirectlyorindirectlyfromusingthisreport(inpartorinwhole)andany LAP LocalActionPlanningAssociation informationormaterialcontainedinit.Thecontentsofthispublicationdonotpurporttorepresentthe MDBA Murray Darling Basin Authority positionoftheMurrayͲDarlingBasinAuthority.Theyarepresentedtoinformdiscussionforimproved Ͳ managementoftheBasin'snaturalresources. DSE DepartmentofSustainabilityandEnvironment(VIC) ResearchandeditingbytheNSWDepartmentofPrimaryIndustries(NSWDPI)andtheUniversityof Technology,Sydney(UTS).TheviewsexpressedinthisbookletarenotnecessarilythoseoftheNSWDPI, UTSorotherprojectpartners. TheMDBAacknowledgestheintellectualpropertyrightsofthepeoplewhosestoriesarefeaturedinthis publication. Note:ThetermTalkingFishisalsobeingusedbytheAustralianRiverRestorationCentreasa wayofsharingknowledgeaboutpeople’sconnectiontofishandwaterways. Readersarewarnedthatthispublicationmaycontainthenamesandimagesof Aboriginalpeoplewhohavesincepassedaway. Photocredits(LͲR): WentworthHistoricalSociety(at‘Kalcurrha’,donor:PatsyCrozier;2007Ͳ29Ͳ 1Ͳ8),ScottNichols,JodiFrawley,TrishJohnson,ScottNichols.Fishimages:NSWDPI. …Thewaterwasclear; wecouldseethefishswimmingabout; thebanksoftheriverweresolidwithtrees. We used to beneath its . fish shade (TheArgus(Melbourne),8October1937,regardingtheGoulburnRiver) Acknowledgements Averyspecialthankyoutoallthosepeoplewhoparticipatedbysharingtheirstoriesandphotographsandtohistoricalsocietiesandlibrariesforprovidingassistanceandmaterials. CoorongandLowerLakes UpperMurrumbidgee Participants:BrianSchulz,TerrySim,JohnYelland,TracyandGlennHill,GarryHeraͲ Participants:DickandGayLawler,BryanPratt,AdrianBrown,DarrenRosoandSueandVern Singh,HenryJones,SallyGrundyandDeanTugwell. Drew. Adviceandfieldsupport:VirginiaSimpson,PhilDuncan(NgnuluConsulting),JonathanMcPhail. Adviceandfieldsupport:LukeJohnston(ACT),PhilDuncan(NgnuluConsulting),CharlieCarruthers (NSWDPI). Katarapko Participants:HowardHendrick,BarryPorter,TracyBye,KingsleyAbdulla,Todd Namoi Goodman,MalcolmWilksch,GilliandGladysStonehamandPeterTeakle. Participants:JoeandPearlTrindall,EricandCarolHannan,SpiderCunningham,Jason Adviceandfieldsupport:VirginiaSimpson(RuralSolutionsSA),PhilDuncan(Ngnulu Simpson,RobertHorne,TimandMandyGavin,DougandJacquiJamiesonandDarcyHarris. Consulting),JonathanMcPhail(PIRSA). ThanksalsotoHelenandGordonCain. Adviceandfieldsupport:PhilDuncan(NgnuluConsulting),MillyHobson(NSWDPI),Anthony LowerDarlingandtheGreatAnabranch Townsend(NSWDPI). Participants:WilliamRiley,BillLever,RodStone,JennyWhyman,DrClaytonSharpe, CarmelChapman,BillandElaineGrace,andTrishJohnsonandherfamily. UpperDarling:BrewarrinatoBourke Adviceandfieldsupport:PhilDuncan(NgnuluConsulting). Participants:GordonBrown,PhilSullivan,PhillipParnaby,DwayneWilloughby,Feli McHughes,MickandBarbDavis,AlmaͲJeanSullivan,CathySimpson,KeithColeman,Max Murray Jeffrey,BradSteadmanandJoeFlick. Participants:DrWayneAtkinson,GavinVale,DennisLean,WallyCooper,MargCrago, Adviceandfieldsupport:PhilDuncan(NgnuluConsulting),DavidCordina,(NSWDPI),Anthony DavidGreen,ColinGreen,HaydenGreen,JohnDouglas,RichardKennedy,Ken Townsend(NSWDPI). Strachan,KelliCunningham,MerilynStrachan,PeterTidd,GrahamEllis,Jodyand HarryLiversidgeandJ.O.Langtry. Paroo Adviceandfieldsupport:PhilDuncan(NgnuluConsulting),DrWayneAtkinson,Charlie Participants:ColinandBerylLeigo,DouglasMacGregor,RonHeinemann,RonGardiner, Carruthers. Colin(Tud)Murphy,FayandDonaldCooney,GordonWarner,KevinEastburn,Lorna McNiven,andPaulWheeler. Goulburn Adviceandfieldsupport:HamishSewell(TheStoryProject),GregRingwood(FisheriesQueensland). Participants:DrWayneAtkinson,KenGilmore,MickHall,DonnyRichter,KayeGibb, GaryGibb,DonCollihiole,GeoffVernon,RonBain,JimHanley,HayleyPurbrick,Wally CulgoaͲBalonne Cubbin,JohnDouglas,DarylSloaneandJodyLiversidge.ThanksalsotoHartleyand Participants:NedandLynetteUnderwood,RoyandJuneBarker,KeithCodrington,George NoelBriggs,DougandLaeliaRogers,JennySheilds,JohnKoehn,DavidChalmers,Rolf Thomas,Robert(Bob)Worboys,RoryTreweeke,MargaretandPeterPeterson,RobertLacey, Weber,RoyPatterson,ErnHolloway,KeithJones,JohnMackenzieandRayDonald. MichaelAnderson,PatStephensandPatCross. Adviceandfieldsupport:PhilDuncan(NgnuluConsulting),FernHames(VicDSE),PamClunie Adviceandfieldsupport:HamishSewell(TheStoryProject),GregRingwood(FisheriesQueensland). (VicDSE),SteveSaddlier(VicDSE). UpperCondamine Ovens Participants:SamBonner,NoalKuhl,BrianKuhn,DessieObst,GeoffReillyandOlive Participants:TomCameron,LyellHogg,OllieEvans,GaryDaws,KeithSnowden,Greg andRayShooter. Sharpe,AdamPascoe,PatLarkinandRonDawson. Adviceandfieldsupport:HamishSewell(TheStoryProject),GregRingwood(Fisheries Adviceandfieldsupport:PhilDuncan(NgnuluConsulting),FernHames. Queensland). The rivers of the Murray- Darling Basin TheriversandcreeksoftheMurrayͲDarlingBasin flowthroughQueensland,NewSouthWales,the AustralianCapitalTerritory,VictoriaandSouth Australia.The77000kmofwaterwaysthatmake uptheBasinlink23catchmentsoveranareaof 1millionkm2. Eachriverhasitsowncharacteryetthesewaters, thefish,theplantsandthepeoplethatrelyon themarealldifferent. Thechaptersinthisbookareabouthowthe rivers,fishandfishinghavechanged.Themain storiesarewrittenfromoralhistoryinterviews conductedwithlocalfishersin2010Ͳ11,andrelate individuals’memoriesofhowtheirlocalplaces havechanged.Theyshowcasethreewaysof knowingariver:personalexperience,scientific researchandhistoricalresearch. Justasindividualfishersdonotalwaysagreewith oneanother,sotheirunderstandingmightnot necessarilyagreewithcurrentscientific informationorhistoricalrecords.Similarly, specificitemsandeventsmightberemembered differentlybydifferentpeople.Thesevaried perspectivesshowtherangeinviewsabout fishingandtherivers,eachimportantinitsown way. Therearemanyothergreatstoriesoutthere aboutfishingintheMurrayͲDarlingBasin.These arejustthebeginning. Figure1:ThecatchmentsoftheMurrayͲDarlingBasin. Contents Introduction…………………………………………………..….1 TheCoorongandLowerLakes………………………….11 KatarapkoCreek… …………………………………………..31 LowerDarlingRiverandtheGreatAnabranch…51 MurrayRiver……………………………………………………73 GoulburnRiver………………………………………………..95 OvensRiver……………………………………………………115 UpperMurrumbidgeeRiver…………………………..133 NamoiRiver……………………………………………………151 UpperDarlingRiver………………………………………..171 ParooRiver…………………………………………………….191 Culgoa–BalonneRivers…………………………………213 UpperCondamineRiver…………………………………235 Bringingbackthefish…………………………………….254 References…………………………………………………….272 1 1. Introduction AnnieandJackKoolmatrielearnttofishin Hehadwhathecalled‘blankdays’whenhe theCoorongandLowerLakesoftheMurray caughtnofishandotherswhenhebought 1 Riverwheretheywereborninthe1910s. homeloadsoffishtosharewithhisfamily TheytravelledupanddowntheMurray andfriends.Bythetimehemasteredtheart River,pickingfruit,workingonfarmsand ofanglingheknewthattocatchtheillusive campingwithotherNgarrindjerifamilies Blackfish,thenowrareMacquariePerch,he besideoneofthemanycreeksorwetlands. neededtousethecommonearthwormor Astheyfishedaroundtheriver,lakes, thelittlegreenmudͲeyestotemptthisshy wetlandsandcreekstheyobservedthe fishoutofhiding. habitsoffishandtheplacesthattheylived, Byfishinginallseasons,helearntaboutthe learningfromtheirparentsand Fishingariver–it’saboutfamilyandcultural thunderstormsandfloodsandhowthere traditions,catchingfood,relaxationandsport.This grandparents as they went. By watching the wasadistinctwindowthatwouldmeanhe photoshowsAlmaͲJeanSullivanfishingnearBourke, movementofthereedsandwaterplants, couldbringhomeasugarbagfull.Ifthe NSW.Photo:Photo:PhilipSullivan. theylearnttospotthegiantMurraycod waterwasalittlechurneduponeofJack’s whosetailwouldbreakthesurfaceofthe favouritefishwouldcomeoutinshoals.But waterasitwasfeeding.Jackrannetsfor theconditionshadtobeexactlyrightͲwhen mulletandcongolliwithhisgrandfatherin afreshcameandthewatersmuddiedͲnot theCoorongandattheendofaday’sfishing whenthefloodwasraging,norwhenitwas theywouldsingsongsfortheNgarrindjeri receding. SeaͲCountry.Togethertheyfishedforfood, Having spent years fishing alone and funandrecreation. learningtoreadtheriverJackjoinedthe AnotherlifelivedontheriverisJackRyan’s, localAnglingclub.By1909hehadwonten 2 wholearnttofishinVictoriainthe1880s. goldmedalsandfifteenfirstprizes.Asan Hetrekkedaroundthestreamsandriversin olderman,hetookthetimetoteachyoung hissparetime,experimentingandobserving fisherswhatheknewaboutfishingandfish, thehabitsoffishandtheplacestheylived. andtheriverstheydependedon. Manypeoplehavefondmemoriesoffishingaschildren. Photosource:JohnDouglass. 2 Thisbookisaboutpeople,likeJackand The Basin Thewaterbeingbeautifullytransparent,the AnnieKoolmatrieandJackRyan,wholive bottomwasvisibleatgreatdepths,showing TheMurrayͲDarlingBasinisaniconicfeature alongsideandfishtheriversoftheMurrayͲ largefishesinshoals,floatinglikebirdsin oftheAustralianlandscape.Itcoversan DarlingBasin.Ittellspartofthestoryabout midͲair. eighthofthecontinent,crossingtheborders thepeople,fishandriversoftheBasinand Wedon’tseethisnow. offivestatesorterritories.Itismadeupof howtheyinteractandinfluenceeachother. twentyͲthreerivervalleys,eachwith Manythings,fromtheoverͲallocationof It’sabouthowrivers,fishandfishinghave tributaries,billabongs,backwaters,creeks waterresources,poorlandmanagement changedandabouthowpeopleareworking andwetlands.ThereareAlpinestreamsthat planningandtheexpansionofprimary tobringtheriversbacktolife. freezesolideveryyear,ephemeraldesert production,havecontributedtoadeclinein Eachchapterinthisbookcapturessomeof riversthatmightnotflowatallforyearsata riverhealth. theobservationsandthememoriesof timeaswellasriverswithdeepandwide WhatweseenowisaBasinthathasonly fishersacrosstheMurrayͲDarlingBasin.It channelscarryingthousandsofmegalitresof oneͲtenthofthefishthatitoncehad. alsodrawsonothertypesofrecords, wateraday. includinghistoricalaccountsandscientific Onefishthatpeoplehavenoticeddecline Thiscomplexityofshapeandflowprovides studiestoprovidebothcontextandinsights acrosstheBasinistheeelͲtailedcatfish.This manydifferenthabitats.Ournativefish intothechanginghealthoftheriversand isoneofthemanyfishthatfishers evolvedtousethesehabitatsandflourish theirfish. rememberedasbeingmoreplentifulbefore with the natural extremes of drought and damswerebuilt,widespreadintensive flood. agricultureorthearrivalofcarp.Theyalso Despiteallitsdiversity,theMurrayͲDarling rememberfreshwatermussels,watersnails Basinisaconnectedwholewhereevents andothersmallcreaturesthattheydon’t andchangesinoneareacanhave seeanymore. devastatingconsequencesonrivers,fishand peopledownstream. Paststoriestellofclearwaterandvast shoalsoffish,suchasrecordedinThomas Mitchell’s diary in 1835 while on the Darling Silverperchwere Catchandreleasefishingisoneofthechangesto River:3 oncecommonacross fishingthatpeopletalkedabout.Photosource:Jason theBasin. Simpson. Photo:FisheriesVictoria. 3 Storiesrelatingtotwelveriversacrossthe Basinareprofiledinthisbook.Thechapter numberisshowninbrackets.Moving upstream,thestoriesstartinSouth Australia:theCoorongandLowerLakes(2), whereitallmeetstheSouthernOcean,and TheUpperCondamine,nearWarwick,Queensland, KatarapkoCreekintheRiverland(3). wherewaterstartsalongjourneytothesea. Photo:GregRingwood. CrossingtheborderintoNewSouthWales: theLowerDarlingandtheGreatAnabranch (4)andthemainstemoftheMurrayRiver TheParoo–onlyinrare,goodyears betweenCorowaandEchuca(5),partofthe willthewaterentertheDarlingRiver. borderbetweenVictoriaandNewSouth Photo:GregRingwood. Wales.IntoVictoria:theGoulburn(6)and theOvens(7).ThenbackintoNSW:Upper Murrumbidgee(8),Namoi(9)andtheUpper DarlingbetweenBrewarrinaandBourke (10). NorthwesttotheParoo(11)inQueensland, theneasttotheCulgoaͲBalonne(12)and theUpperCondamine(13).
Alpinestreamsaddsnow melttothewatersofthe Murrumbidgee. WherethewatersoftheMurrayͲDarlingmeet Photo:CharlieCarruthers. thesea:theCoorong,wherethestoriesinthis bookstart.Photo:JodiFrawley. 4 Fishing Thefishersyouwillmeetinthisbookcome fromallwalksoflife.Theysharetheir Fishinghasalwaysbeenacommonactivity memoriesoffishingandofthechangesthey forpeoplewholiveintheMurrayͲDarling haveseeninthemanyandvariedpartsof Basin.Insomefamiliesthereare theMurrayͲDarlingBasin. generationswhohavespenttimenexttoa river,watchingit,fishingandenjoyingbeing Thesefishersareamongthe430,000who fish the waters of the Basin.4 Some fish for outside,innature.Hoursspentcomfortably aloneorwithfamilyandfriends,being PearlandJoeTrindall,withtheirnephewPhil relaxationandsomeforfood.Othersfishor taughttofish,fishingandteachinginturn. (centre).Photo:JodiFrawley fishedcommercially.Forsome,fishingis FortheAboriginalpeoplesoftheBasin,the partofwhotheyare.Overtheirlives,the rivers,fishandfishingareanintegralpartof reasonsforfishingmighthavechanged,and whotheyareandtheirculture. whatwasonceafoodͲonͲtheͲtablenecessity hasbecomearecreation.Thisbookincludes Whetherfishingforrelaxation,forfoodoras peoplewhofishformanydifferentreasons asocialactivity,fishershaveexperienced andcoversarangeofperspectives. changeintheirriversandthefishthey catch.Someknowwhattheycatchis ForAboriginalpeoplesthroughouttheBasin, differentfromwhattheirgrandparents fishinghasremainedacentralpartof 5,6 caught.PeoplenewtotheBasinortofishing communitylife. Thelocationofmanyof mightnotrealizethatwhattheyseenowis themissionsandreservesonornearrivers notwhattheriverswere,norwhatthey DonnyRichter.Photo:JodiFrawley enabledAboriginalpeopletosupplement couldbe. themeagredietsandrationsofthe postcolonialera.Fishingisalsopartof Peoplefeaturedinthisbookareamong continuingtraditionalinteractionswith thosewhowanttoseetherivershealthy countryandriverbanksremainimportant andthefishflourishingoncemore.Their placesforgatheringandstorytelling. visionsofwhattheriverscouldbeandtheir descriptionsofthesortsofthingstheyare doingarepartoftherichstoryoffishing throughouttheBasin. JohnAston.Photosource:JohnAston 5 Growing up fishing TheNamoiisalsooneofthemanyrivers thathavehadsnagsremoved–toimprove Growingupfishingisanimportantpartof navigationandasamisguidedattemptto manyfishers’stories.InAboriginal improvewaterflow.Previouslythiswas communities,thishaslargelybeenbecause acceptedpracticeandresnaggingwas oftheenduringroleofwomenasfishersfor consideredheresy.Butmanyfishers,like food,accompaniedbychildrenandteaching BryanPrattwhosestoryisinthe themCountryintheprocess.7,8,9 Murrumbidgee,knowthatsnagsareagood InnonͲAboriginalcommunities,women placetocatchfishͲhesays: often had the strongest memories of fishing weknewsnagswereimportantbecause duringtheyearswhentheirchildrenwere whenyougofishingforMurraycod…you young.Theriverwasacoolandenjoyable WorkingwithstockaroundtheParooRivermeant homeinonthesnags.That’swherethefish placetotakechildrentoplayintheheatof sometimesmeant‘droving’byboat!Duringthe are. summer,tolearntoswimandtofish.During floodsin1935and1936drovershadtouseboats hauled by hand across the river to get stock to safety. thistimeinwomen'slives,theirrelationship Knowingwhenandhowtheriversfloodedwasan withtheriverandfishingwasintense,butas integralpartoflivingandworkingaroundthese theirchildrengrewthentheirrelationshipto rivers.Photosource:ColinLeigo. fishingalsochanged.10 Growingupfishingledsomeofthese ForsomelikeJoeandPearlTrindall,droving childrentotakeupcareersthatkeptthem stockformonthsatatimemeantgettingto closetotherivers,eitherascommercial knowtheriversandthefloodplainssothey fishersintheCoorongandotherareas,oras couldkeepthestockhealthyandhavefish scientistsstudyingfishorecologyor fordinner.Asayoungmarriedcoupleinthe A Murray cod at home amongst the snags. The conservation. 1940stheylearnthow,whereandwhen majorityofMurraycodarefoundwithinonemetreof water flowed, during drought and flood. asnag.Photo:CraigCopeland. Work and the rivers TheTrindall’smainobservationnow, J.O Langtry was both a fisher and a scientist. Workingonornearriverscontributedalot comparingtheNamoiriversystemtoday He says that over the two years working as a topeople’sknowledgeofriversandoftheir withtheexperiencestheyhadasyoung biologist in 1948 49 he learnt a lot as he fish…aswellasprovidingmanydifferent Ͳ drovers,isthatthereisfarlesswater talked to anyone who fished – whether they opportunitiestogofishing! available. diditasahobby,foralivingorasapoacher. 6 Theywereallforhimasourceofknowledge Whatwassurprisingwasthatmostlyitwas abouttheriverandhowitwaschanging.In nottheirmothersorfatherswhotaught particular,hestressedthatasascientist,he themtofish.Instead,theylearntalongside learnedmostaboutfishbecauseheDIDthe cousinsandsiblingsfromothermembersof fishing.Asheexplained,emphasisingsome theirextendedfamilies:unclesandaunts thingsverystrongly:11 andgrandparents.Forsomefishers, grandparents now themselves, the So,thethingaboutitisnotjusttogoand LOOKattheriver,it’stogoandWORKit.To opportunitytoteachtheirgrandchildrento handleit,toDOit!It’stheonlyway. beresponsiblefishersisbothwelcomeand takenseriously. Howpeoplefishedhaschangedoverthe decades. Many of the fishers profiled here Tethering(top)wasoncecommonplaceandcommon talkedabouthowthey,andothers,have senseinanagewhenmanyfishedforfoodand changedthegeartheyuse,thetechniques beforerefrigeration.Catchandrelease(below)has andtheiroverallapproach. becomemuchmoretheusualsincethelate twentiethcenturyandtetheringisfrownedupon. Photo,top:NSWDPI.Photosource,below:BarryPorter. Handing down the stories Althoughthecollectivememoryofthe peopleintervieweddidnotreachfurther backthanthe1930s,insomeinstances peopletoldstorieshandeddownfrom generationtogeneration. Inmorerecenttimes,oneofthekeychanges identifiedbyfishersisthattherehasbeena shift in attitudes from ‘taking it all’ to ‘catch andrelease’.Whereonceitwascommonand unremarkabletocatchhugehaulsoffish,this practiceisnowfrowneduponbymost Whilethetechniqueshavechanged,fishing remains an important aspect of family and fishers,whethertheyfishtheUpper CondamineatthetopofthesystemorLake communitylife.Mostpeoplewespoketo ColinGreenandhisgrandson,Blake.Fishingisapart Alexandrina,rightdownnearthemouth. learnttofishaspartofthelifeofthefamily. offamilylife.Photosource:ColinGreen. 7 Part of who we are Carp AboriginalcommunitiesintheMurrayͲ Oneofthestoriesthatwillbehandeddown DarlingBasinhaverelatedbutslightly togenerationstocomeisthearrivalofcarp. different experiences of familial relations Someofthefishersinterviewedcould and extended family. Fishing and trips to the rememberriversbeforecarpandhavevivid river are interwoven with storytelling and memoriesoftheirarrival.Othershavenever learning their culture and interactions knownariverwithoutthem.Severalfishers between elders and youngsters. Riverbanks observedthatthecarpdowellbecausethe are places where creation stories were riversystemhaschangedwiththebuilding retold and children are introducedinto ofdamsandweirs,increasedsiltationand Aboriginalwaysandresponsibilitiesfor lessvariablecyclesofdryandflood.They Place. alsoseehowcarpcontributetothese Thisideaofbeingresponsiblefortheriver changes,throughtheirfeedinghabitsand anditsfishisanimportantoneformany competitionwithnativefish. Aboriginalpeople.FeliMcHughes,oneof Mostlamenttheintroductionofcarp,and ourinterviewees,hassaidaboutthe somelikeDougieMcGregorfromtheParoo Brewarrina Ngemba Billabong, on the Upper wouldbehappytoseethoseresponsible Darling River:12 ‘shot’.Othershavelearnttousethemin Ourbillabongissignificanttoourculture,our variousways.BaarkantjiwomanJenny wellͲbeing,ourvalue,Baiame’shealing, Whymanrecallshowshewastaughta Australia’sreconciliationhealing,Australia’s recipeforpickledcarpfromherYugoslav environment,Australia’sconservationand uncle. restoration. Therehabilitationofaplacelikethe BrewarrinaBillabongwillbenefitthe communityandthefish,plantsandother livingthingsthatliveinthebillabongitself andallthewaterwaysit’sconnectedto. Top:Fishtraps,Brewarrina.Photo:PhilipSullivan. Middle:AlmaJeanSullivan,arenownedlocalfisher. Photo:PhilipSullivan. Bottom:NgembaBillabong.Photo:FeliMcHughes. Largecongregationsofcarpcanbecommonafter floods.NathanReynoldson. 8 Thefeelingsaboutotherintroducedfishare Troutandotherspecieslikeredfin,roach moreambiguous.Troutfishinghasalong andtenchhavealwaysbeenseenasgood historyinEuropeandNorthAmerica.These eatingfishandtherearemanypeoplewho fishwereintroducedintoAustraliato lamentthedeclineofredfinfromthe1980s provideafamiliarsportfishingexperience onwards. forEuropeanmigrants.Inparticular,flyͲ fishingfortroutwasenjoyedbymiddleand New stories upper class and were the focus for the first Whetherit’scatfishorcarp,catchͲandͲ fishing clubs and tournaments in Australia. It releaseorsetlines,theregulationofflows was believed that native fish were decidedly ornot,thepeoplewespoketotoldstories not sporting fish. This started to change in ofchangestoriversandtothetypeand the mid twentieth century and now lure and Ͳ numbersoffish.Ifwereflecton150yearsof fly fishers will regularly target native Ͳ change,canweimagineaDarlingRiverclear species. toadepthof30feet?AMurrayRiverwith tensofthousandsmoresnags,eachwitha Murraycodoratroutcodnearby?A Coorongteemingwithmulloway,flounder andcongolli? Therearefisherswhoremembertherivers differentlythantheyaretoday.Theseare theirstories. Top:Allowidgee,picturedfishingusingabark canoeandreedspearinawaycommonto YortaYortamen,Photosource:StateLibraryof SouthAustralia,SLSA:PRG422/3/704. Bill Austin giving would be fly fishers a distance Ͳ Middle:Flyfishing.Photosource:JimHanley. castingdemonstrationatEildonin1945.Heis Bottom:thenextgeneration.Photo:NSWDPI. handling30yardsoflinewithanAustralianͲmade canerod.Photosource:MickHall. The Talking Fish project 9 TheTalkingFishprojectarosefromanincreasingrealisation thatmanydifferentgroupsofpeople,includingfishers, Indigenouscommunities,touristsandlandholdershave developeduniquerelationshipswiththeriversofthe MurrayͲDarlingBasin.Thereisalsothegrowingrecognition thatthehealthoftheMurrayͲDarlingBasinisatrisk. Byaccessingandrecordingdifferentpeople’sstoriesabout theirexperiencesofariver,itsfishandhowbothhave changedwillcontributetoourcollectiveknowledgeandhelp shapefuturemanagementdecisions.Thesestoriesalsohave thepotentialtogivepeopleasenseofjustwhatthese magnificentriversandtheirfishwereoncelikeͲandcould beagainwithongoingrehabilitationefforts. TheTalkingFishprojectfocussedon12reacheswithinthe followingrivers:Namoi(NSW),UpperCondamineRiver (Qld),KatarapkoCreek(SA),UpperMurrumbidgeeRiver (NSW/ACT),CulgoaͲBalonneRivers(Qld/NSW),Paroo River(Qld),GoulburnRiver(Vic),LowerDarlingRiverandthe GreatAnabranch(NSW),OvensRiver(Vic),Mainstem MurrayRiver(NSW/Victoria),UpperDarlingRiver(NSW) andTheCoorongandLowerLakes(SA). TheTalkingFishprojectisastartingpointtosharelocal knowledgeandlearnedexperiencewithotherstoimprove thehealthoftheMurrayͲDarlingBasin.Projectinformation isavailableat:www.mdba.gov.auand www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/fisheries/habitat. ManyspecialpeoplecontributedtothestoriesinthisbookandarelistedintheAcknowledgements.Some Aboriginalnamesusagenote wereprofiledandotherswerenot,butallcontributedstoriesandphotographs.Someofthepeoplewho TheattemptsofearlyEuropeansettlerstotranslatethenamesof weren’tprofiledareshownhere. AboriginalnationsandlanguagegroupsintoEnglishledto Fromlefttoright,startingatthetoprow:KenStrachan,GrahamEllis,PeterStid(Murray);RobertHorne variationsinhowthesenameswerespelt.LocalAboriginalpeople (Namoi);RobertLacey(CulgoaͲBalonne);TimGavin(Namoi);BillGrace(LowerDarling);PatLarkin(Ovens); oftenpreferparticularspellings.Whereanintervieweehasa GeoffReilly(Condamine);TrishJohnson(LowerDarling);GillStoneham(Katarapko);DougandJacqui Jamieson (Namoi); Unc and Max Jeffrey (Upper Darling); Gary Sharpe (Ovens); Jim Hanley, Don Collihole, Jeff preference,thisisusedintheirprofile. Vernon,KeithJones(Goulburn);MickandBarbDavis(UpperDarling).
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& Low kes er La Source:GarryHeraͲSingh. Source:JodiFrawley. Source:GarryHeraͲSingh. Source:JodiFrawley. 12 BrianSchulzcametolovetheRiverMurray anditsfishingfromfamilyholidayswhenhe wasachild.So,hemovedtoMurrayBridge! Photosource:BrianSchulz. Terry Sim (left) and John Yelland (right) werebornwithinthreedaysofoneanother. Asyoungsters,theyexploredthebanksof LakeAlexandrinaandhavecontinuedthis loveofthewildasadults.Photosources:Terry SimandJohnYelland. Tracy Hill is an active member of the SouthernFishersAssociation.Sheisproud thatthecommercialfisheryoperatinginthe CoorongandLowerLakesisrecognizedasa sustainablefishery.Photo:JodiFrawley. 13
Andmygrandfatherusedtotellmeabouttheweedsgrowingin theriver,andthey’dwatchthat.Andabigfishwouldcomein thereandofcourseyoucouldseethemovement.Whenhe’s feeding,theMurraycod’stailwouldalwayscometothetop.
I’veseenitmyself–thetail,thebigtail. NgarrindjeriwomanAnnieKoolmatrie,born1917,recordedin1979byBonitaEly1 14 Introducing the river and its people Aftergatheringwaterfrom23rivervalleys, The coming of the Europeans theMurrayemptiesintoLakesAlexandrina Aswellasbeinguniquelyaffectedby andAlbertbeforemakingitswaytothe changesupstream,theLowerLakes,Coorong CoorongandouttheMurrayMouthto andtheirfishhavebeenshapedbythe EncounterBayinSouthAustralia.Theentire peoplewhocametolivehereandofthe MurrayͲDarlingBasinisupstream.Everything industriesthatdeveloped.Sheepandcattle thathappensthereaffectswhatgoeson grazing,commercialfishingandtourismhave here. allbroughtnewpeopleintothearea,with Windisalmostaconstanthere.Nothing newneedsandnewwaystocatchitsfish. separatesthisuniquepieceofAustraliafrom TheLowerLakesandCoorongthatCharles AntarcticaandthefullbruntoftheSouthern Sturtfoundwhenhecompletedhisjourney Ocean. TheMurrayMouth–wheretheMurrayͲDarlingBasin down the Murray River to the mouth in 1830 meetsthesea.Photo:JodiFrawley. wasatidalplace,onebigestuarywhereboth Yarluwar-Ruwe: Sea Country Along,longtimeagoNgurunderiour saltandfreshwaterfishcouldbefound.The SpiritualAncestorchasedPondi,thegiant TheRiver,LakesandCoorongarepartofthe Lakes only became salty during droughts. The Murraycod,fromthejunctionwherethe traditionallandsoftheNgarrindjeripeople. DarlingandMurrundi(RiverMurray)meet. shoresprovidedgoodwateringpointsforthe These waters provided food and featured in BackthentheRiverMurraywasjustasmall sheepandcattlethatfollowedinthe1840s. theirstories. streamandPondihadnowheretogo.As Ngarrindjeripeopleworkedinthesepastoral Ngurunderi chased him in his bark canoe he TheNgarrindjeriNationYarluwarͲRuwePlan activities,sharingtheirintimateknowledge wentploughingandcrashingthroughthe retellshowtheLowerLakesandCoorong oftheLowerLakesandCoorongwiththe landandhishugebodyandtailcreatedthe werecreatedbyNgurunderiandPondi,who newcomers. Fishing in the salt, estuarine and mightyRiverMurray.WhenNgurunderiand camefromtheupperreachesoftheMurray hisbrotherͲinͲlawNepelecaughtPondiatthe freshwateryieldedarangeofdifferentfish River. placewherethefreshandsaltwatermeet foralltoenjoy. theycuthimupintomanypieces,which In1853theSSMaryAnnandSSLady became the fresh and salt water fish for the Ͳ Augustakickedoffsteamandpaddleboat Ngarrindjeripeople.Tothelastpiece travelontheMurrayandDarlingRivers, Ngurunderisaid‘youkeepbeingPondi’ 2 making Goolwa a key inland rivers port. (Murraycod).
15 ProfessionalfishermenworkedtheLower RiverregulationinVictoriaandNewSouth LakesandCoorong,movingbetween Walesmeantthatbytheearlytwentieth campsitesdottedaroundtheshoresandthe centurytheLowerLakesweresaltierthan satellitetownsofMilangandGoolwa. theyhadbeeninthepast.Fivebarrages Professionalfishingnumbersswelledwhen werebuiltatGoolwa,Mundoo,Boundary otherworkintheareadropped,especially Creek,EweIslandandTauwitchereby1940, duringthedepressionyearsofthe1890sand changingtheLowerLakesagain.TheLakes 1930s.3 werenowpermanentfreshwater.4 JamesCarruthers,withhisgrandsonDes,netting congolliinNarrungNarrowsin1940.Photosource:Garry Now,thebarragesseparatethefreshwater HeraͲSingh(PhotonotesCourtesyof.DandJAyres). fromthesaltandtheLakesfromthe Coorong.Flowsfromupstreamhavedeclined Cl somuchthatinrecentyearsadredgehas ayton beenusedtokeeptheMurrayMouthopen In1910theSurveyorGeneralofSouthAustralia tothesea. laidoutthetownshipwhichwastobegazettedas Clayton.Itwashopedthatitwouldbecome Todaythepulsingofthefreshandsaltwater anotherthrivingforeshorecommunitylikeMilang, hasended.Continuedlowflowsfrom 30kmsaroundonLakeAlexandrina. upstreamhavemeantthesouthernendof Thatdidn’thappenuntilprofessionalfishers theCooronghasbecomeuptofivetimes HenryandGloriaJonesarrivedinthe1960s, saltierthantheseaandisatriskofecological joiningtheonlyotherresident–amanlivingina collapse.Onceaplacewherebothsaltand cavewith20cats. freshwaterfishmovedwiththedifferent HenryandGloriabuiltahouseandthenalittle watersastheyflowedbackwardsand shopwheretheysoldfreshfishcaughtoutonthe forwardsthroughthesystem,thefishare Lakes.In1974,theyopenedarestaurantanddeli nowstrugglingtocope. thattheycalled‘YabbyCity’,sellingtheirfishing haulsdirecttothepublic. Thelittletowngrewaroundthem,becominga drawcardfortourists.Henryremembers:Itwasa AcommercialfisherontheCoorong.Photosource:Garry reallybusylittlerestaurantfor25years. HeraͲSingh(PhotonotesCourtesyofTonyGardner). Wehadcoaches,boatsandhelicopters bringingpeoplein:thewholeworks!
16 Brian Schulz – The original ‘Fantastic Fisherama’ BrianSchulzwasborn betterandforworse.Tench,anotherfish M 74yearsagoandgrewup introducedfromEurope,isoneexample. urr (Maccullochellapeelia–yCod, Codfish,Pondi) intheBarossaValley.His Weusedtohavetenchyearsago.Sometimes cod familyventuredacrossto theywouldbeuptothreeorfourpound.We theSwanReachonthe didn’teatthemthough,theyweretoobony. MurrayRiverwherethey Buttheyhavediedoutsincethecarpcamein holidayedinashacknear andtookover. Lang’sLanding. Cod story
Fantastic fisherama Brian’sallͲtimefavouritefishistheMurray Photo:GuntherSchmida. Briansolovedhisfishingthathemovedto cod. x LargestAustraliannativefreshwaterfish,growingto Murray Bridge to be closer to all the best They’resobeautiful,they’resodocile,they’re 1.8mand113kg(average40cm) spotsintheriver.Hewasenthusiasticabout suchamarvellousspeciesoffish.Idon’t x Foundarounddeepholes,woodydebris(‘snags’)and gettingpeopletogetherandspreadingthe believeinslaughteringthemorkillingthem. overhangingvegetationorrocks wordaboutrecreationalfishing. WehadcommercialfishinginSouth x Ambushpredatoreatingotherfish,crustaceans, Australiauntilafewyearsago.Wehadabig I used to run a fishing competition called molluscsandfrogs petitiondrawnupandcollectedsomething Fantastic Fisherama and that was a very, Migrate in Spring – often migrate hundreds of like28000signaturesandwetookthemto x very popular fishing competition. We had up kilometresupstreamwithwaterlevelrises parliamentthroughMrPeterLewisand to 790 contestants at Walker’s Flat one year eventuallythecommercialsectorinthe x Malesguardtheeggswhicharelaidonlogsorrocks backinthe‘70s.WewentuptoBigBendin MurrayRiverwasclosed.Ithinkrecreational x Listedas‘Vulnerable’inVictoriaandbythe later years, and that’s a lovely place up fishersalsoneedtostopcatchingcod.I’m Commonwealth,catchandreleaseonlyinSA there. Always good fishing. againstlurefishingforMurraycod.Ifeel, don’ttarget‘em,leave‘emalone. All sorts of fish RecentlytheSouthAustraliangovernment Brianhascaughtallsortsoffishfromthe hasmovedtoacatchandreleasepolicyfor riveroverhislifetime:callop,silverperch, Murraycod,wheretheymustbereturnedto catfishandcarp.Buthehasseensomefish thewater. disappearfromtheangler’srepertoire–for Photo:LukePearce.
17 AcrosstheMurrayͲDarlingBasin,fisherstalk Thereisalotofsaltonthecliffsinthispart ofastoryaboutthemapofthecod’s oftheMurray.Therivergetssaltybecauseof birthplaceimprintedontheirstomachlining. theirrigationthat’scomingfromthecliffs. BrianheardthisstoryfromanAboriginal Overtimethewaterseepsbackdowninto the river. It becomes very saline downstream. manheknew,MrHunter. They’veopeneduptheBarragesatGoolwa Likemostfishers,hewasskeptical.Soheset atthemomentandalotofthatsalt’sgone outtofindsomeproof,onewayorthe outofthemouth.It’sgoodit’swashedout. other. JohnYellandalsoworriesaboutthe Icaughtacod,gutteditandcutopenthe accumulationofsaltfromupstreamwater stomach.WhenIsawtheliningofthe useandfarmingpractices. stomach,Iheldituptothelightandthere wasthetreeinfrontofme.Thereare hundredsoftreesintheMurraybutthis Salt particulartreehasgotaparticularleanonit, int Risingsalinityisanerissuec throughouttheBasin. soIrecognisedit.Alotofpeopletodaydon’t ept One option being used to addression increases in believeme.Butthatdoesn’tbotherme.I s che knowthetruth,I’vegotitthereinwriting. salinityisSaltInterceptionSchemes(SIS).mSISesuse borestocapturesalinegroundwaterandpump it Youcan'tdoanymorethanthat. ThestomachliningofaMurraycodshowingBrian todisposalbasinsbeforeitreachestheriver wherethefishhecaughtwasborn.Source:BrianSchulz. channel.Disposalbasinsarealargedistancefrom Tall tales and true theriverandminimisethepotentialforsaltstoreͲ Salt in the fresh enter the surface waters. Theycatchsomebigfishatthebottomof theMurraysystem,Brianexplains. Brianlivesapproximately60kilometresfrom ThefirstSISwasbuiltatCurlwaainNSWin1973. LakeAlexandrinaandhaswitnessedthe SitesinSAincludeWaikerie,Woolpundaand IwasfishingandIhadthishugebiteandI Loxton,Bookpurnong,PikeRiver,Murtho,and problems of the Lower Lakes and the startedtoreelitinandanotherfishcame Chowilla. CoorongsincethemouthoftheRiverfirst alongandtookthefishthatIwasreelingin. AtMorgan,thelevelofsalinityisnowabout25% AndthenIstartedtoreelthatotherfishin closedin1981.Whileheacknowledgesthat lessthanitwouldhavebeenwithoutthe andhe’shangin’ontothefirstfishand thereareproblemswithhypersalinityinthe schemes.12 anotherfishcamealongandtooktheback Coorong,healsothinksfishersneedtoknow Formoreinformationonthisandotheroptions fish,soIhadthreefishontheonehook.And aboutthesaltintheRiveritselfandhowit beingusedtocontroltheBasin’ssalinitysee justgotthemalltotheboatandthecord affectswhatishappeningdownstream. www.mdba.gov.au. brokeandIlostthelot!
18 Oneofthethingsyoucertainlycan’targue HenryJonesisaprofessionalfisherwholives againstintheGuidetotheProposedBasin atClaytononLakeAlexandrina.Hethinks Plan is the estimated two million tonnes of The thatthelackofflowsarerelatednotjustto barr saltperyearwashingintotheriver.Whereis thedrought,butalsotothelackoffreshes EuropeansettlementoftheMurrayage ͲDarlingBasinhas it going? It has to go out to sea otherwise it’s s thatwouldhavehelpedtoclearthesaltin alteredtheCoorongandLowerLakes.Before justgoingtofilltheriverup.Ithink settlementtheLakeswerepredominantlyfresh,but thepast. everybodyunderstandsweneedtodealwith duringperiodsoflowflowtheyarebelievedtohave thesalt. Thebigfloodsrarelyhappennow.Ithink’92 becomebrackishforshortperiodsasseawater wasthelastonearoundthisway,butwe intrudedintotheLakes. OneoftheparadoxesoftheLakes,says nevergetthoseintermediateonesanymore. AssettlementexpandedlocallyandacrosstheBasin, John, is that they are freshwater with saline Thoselittlefloods.They’repumpedinto landusechangedandextractionsincreased.The swampsallaroundthem,fedpartlyfromthe damsandusedforirrigationorcritical intrusionofseawaterbecameagreaterissuesuch that by the early 1900s the increasingly salinity made saltdepositedbypastflooding. humanneeds.Unlesswecangetthose itmoredifficultforlocalstoutilisethelakewater. mediumflowstoflushthesaltoutthrough thesea,thenthisareawillcontinuetodie. By1940fivebarrageswerebuilt:Goolwa,Mundoo, Boundary Creek, Ewe Island and Tauwitchere Imeanwecanseeitdying. Ͳ foreverchangingtheconnectivity,hydrologyand ecologyofthearea.
TheMurrayMouthinApril1981.Itwascompletely siltedup,effectivelyseparatingtheimmenseMurrayͲ Theconstructionofthebarragesinthe1930swaswelcome DarlingRiversystemfromtheocean.Imagesource:Garry workformanymen.Fishingwasimportantbothtosupply Bigfishandlotsoffish.Top:acatchthatincludeda HeraͲSingh. foodandtotakebacktoAdelaideandsellontheirwork largemullaway.Photosource:GarryHeraͲSingh(Photonotes breaks.Photosource:GarryHeraͲSingh(PhotonotesCourtesyof LetaPackman). CourtesyofTonyGardner).
19 Terry Sim & John Yelland – Mates on the Lakes wasoutrecently,itwasnearlytwo kilometresoutanditshowsitisalotofflats. Yab So fishing there wasn’t very good. Uncle by (Cheraxdestructorfisher ) Grahamnextdoor,heandhisbrotherwere y keenfishermen.Johnparticularlywaskeen. Theyhadadecentsortofboatandoutboard motor there for a while. TerrySim(left)andJohnYelland(right)were Yabbies and magic bornwithinthreedaysofoneanotherin Terry’sfamilylovedtoyabby.Andwhen 1952.Theyweredestinedtobemates, theydid,morethanthefamilytuckedinat althoughTerrygrewupinMilangandJohn Photo:CharlieCarruthers. theendoftheday. onPointSturt.John’sfamilyownedamixed x AcommercialyabbyfisheryoperatedinLake farmthatincludedasmalldairy,andTerry’s Everyoneyabbied.Ifyouwantedafeedof Alexandrinafrom1970Ͳ75 fatherdidthemilkcanruneverymorning yabbiesyouwentoutandgotyourown.And x In1972and1973,inexcessof100000kgper fromthelocalfarmstothebutterfactoryat you’dgetenoughyabbiestodoacoupleof yearofyabbieswereremoved–thisequatesto Milang. copperͲfulls.Copperswereusedforboiling about2millionyabbiesperyear water that clothes were washed in. And at x TheyabbypopulationintheLakehasnot Asyoungsters,theybothexploredthebanks homewehadapergolathatwascoveredin returnedtothehighlevelsofthe1970s10 ofLakeAlexandrina,fishing,picnicking,and grapevine.Thetablewouldcomeoutunder searchingforwildlifealongthewindswept thegrapevineandthecopperwouldstartup shores.Nowadaystheycontinuetoexplore fortheyabbies.Asasixorsevenyearoldkid theareaasmembersofthecommunity itwasalmostlikemagicbecausepeoplejust group,theLakesHub. usedtoturnup.Youdidn’tknowhowthey gottherebutthegatewouldopenanda Althoughtherewasplentyofwater,John coupleofcousinsandanauntwouldcomein. explainsfishingwasachallengewhenhe Bytheendofthedaythere’dbe15or20 wasayoungboy. peoplesittingaroundthetablealleating yabbies. Today’sgoodhaulofyabbiesdoesnotcomeclosetowhatwas Ourpartofthelake,thecornerdownat onceavailableintheLakes.Photosource:BrianSchulz. PointSturtisveryshallow.Whenthewater 20 Acres of ducks Little things lost Ac id su TerryknowsthatthewildlifeintheLakes HenryJonescametoClaytononLake Over the millenia, the sedimentslfa of the Lower Lakes have t e so wasoncemeasureddifferentlythanitis Alexandrinainthe1960s.Heagreeswith developedironsulfidemineralsfromnaturalils organiccarbon now. TerryandJohnthatthedevastationofthe and sulfate in an oxygen free environment. With a decline in Ͳ smallanimalsinthesystemhaseffectsfor waterlevels,thesematerialsareexposedtoair,oxidiseand I’vetalkedtothegrandsonofoneofthe formsulfates.WhenreͲwetted,sulfuricacidisproducedand familieswhowereprofessionalduck alltheanimals. toxicmetalssuchasaluminiummaybereleased. shooters.Andtheduckswereonthelakein Littlethingslikespiralsnails.Theswansused InMarch2009,whenthewaterlevelswereverylow hugerafts.Theydidn’tcounttheducksin toliveonthem,andthemuskducksandthe (Ͳ1.4mAHD(meansealevel)ormorethan2mbelownormal 200or300,theysaid,there’sfourorfive bluebilledducks,andthewidgeon,the lakelevel)some20000haofthesesedimentswereexposed acresofduck.That’showbigthemobs grebes.Allthosedivingducks.Iusedto aroundthelakes.PotentialacidificationofthewholeLakes were. throwananchorinthewaterfortenminutes systemwasfeared. TerryandJohnexplainedhowthe andpullitupanditwasjustcoveredinthese MostaquaticlifeneedsaminimumpHof6tosurvive,but snails.They’renotthereanymore. acidifiedwatercanbeaslowaspH2,althoughitisoften abundanceofbirdlifealsotellsastoryof aroundpH4.Fishandothercreatureswilltrytoavoidacid Lakesthrivingwiththesortoffeedthatwas Historically,about18speciesofsnailslivedintheRiver water,butiftheycan’t,fishkillsmayoccur.Acidwatercan also great for the fish. MurrayinSouthAustraliabutnaturalpopulationsof haveothernegativeeffectstofishlikedamagingtheirskin, nearlyallofthesehavedeclined. reducingtheirgrowthandreducingtheabilityoffisheggsto OriginallytheLakeswerefresh,andinsome hatch.Acidwaterisalsohighinaluminiumwhichistoxicto placestheribbonweed,Triglochin,wastwo mostfish,damagingtheirgillsandleadingtosuffocation.8 milesintothewater.Thenontheshorethere Luckily,onlysmallareasofshorelineshowedserious werereeds,andthentherewereswamps acidification.Someaerialspreadingoffinelimestonewas andlignumsbehindthemontheplains.And usedtoassistwithneutralisingtheseareas.Otherareas thatwaterreedwaswheretheinvertebrates weredeliberatelykeptinundatedwithwaterfollowingthe lived.Theoldfishermenandduckshooters constructionofearth‘regulators’atClaytonandNarrung.As saythattherewasatinylittlesnailthatlived SourceNSWDPI. aresultthewatersremainedgreaterthanpH7andnofish inthewaterweed.Ithinkthey’remorelikea Notopalasublineatahanleyi,wasthoughttobeextinct killswereobserved. cockle or mussel than a snail. When the inSouthAustraliauntilitwasdiscoveredinirrigation With much interest focused on the area, a Milang waterweedwaskilledoffbytheseawater pipelinesintheRiverlandregion. communityinitiative,theLakesHub,wasformedtoconnect intrusions,thatlittlesnaildiedandthenthe Notopalaspp.produce‘miniatureadult’babiesandso Governmentwithenthusiasticandcommittedlocalgroups. ducksdisappeared. CommunityandagencymonitoringandbioͲremediation requirehighprotein,lowcarbondiets.Riverregulation programsareongoing.13 isthoughttohaveencouragedcarbonrichalgaein stableweirpools,meaningthesesnailsdon’tgetenough oftherightfood.11 21 TerrythinksthatthechangestotheLakes Mulloway for isinglass reachbackintothenineteenthcentury– Mulloway,asaltwaterfish,hasalwaysbeen M whennonͲAboriginalpeoplefirstsettledin ullo apopularfishforbothprofessionaland way SouthAustralia. (Argyosomushololepidotus,jewelfish,jewie, recreationalfishers.Itisalsoafavouriteof butterfish) Therewasaninspectoroffisheriesinthelate theNgarrindjeripeople.Terrypointsout 1800swhowroteareporttosaythatthe thatintheearlydaysnotallfishwerecaught Coorong was going saltier than it was before. becausetheyweregoodtoeat.Thedried Healsodetailedhowblackbream,which swimbladdersofsomefishwereusedas wereamajorfishinthepast,hadalmost isinglass, a type of gelatine and clarifying disappearedandthemulletweretaking agentusedinbeerandwinemaking. over.So,evenasearlyas50yearsafter settlementthingshadseemedtochange Originallythemullowayindustrywasn’tfor Image:NSWDPI. downtheCoorong.Withthesaltwater flesh at all. It was for isinglass. They took x FoundinAfrica,Madagascarandalongthe comingintotheLakesmoreandmore,the whattheyneededandchuckedtherestof southerncoastlineofAustraliafromSharkBayin codandthecallopdisappearedbackup thefishaway.I’vemetmanylocalpeople WAtonorthofBrisbaneinQld streamandthemulletandthemulloway whosaythatthere’snowonderthere’sno x Opportunisticpredators,feedingonavarietyof cameinfromthesea. mullowaydowntherenowbecauseweused fish,molluscsandcrustaceans toseegreatheapsofthemontheshore rottingbecausetheyjustcaughtthemand x Generallyspawninmarinewatersjustoutsideof Priortotheirconstructionthebarrageswereseen threwthemaway. thesurfzone.Eggandlarvaldevelopmentoccurs asthesolutiontotheproblemofincreasing atsea salinity.ALettertotheEditorofTheAdvertiser (Adelaide,31May1915)states: x Juvenilessettleinestuarinenurseryareasfor threetofouryears WhatisthepositiontoͲday?Thelakeshavebeen x Thoughttoliveforamaximumofaround30years lowerthroughouttheyearthanatanyperiod knowntowhitemen….[T]heencroachmentof x Popularrecreationalspecies theseawaterhasgraduallyincreased.It Some captured from freshwater of Lower Lakes culminatedinthestorm…[which]drovethe x waterback,andallowedtheinrushofseawater x LargemullowayfisheryexistedintheLakesprior ….OneofitseffectswastodestroyinLakeAlbert tobarrageconstructionin1940s oneofthefinestspawninggroundsforcodinthis State.…Abarragewouldhavepreventedthis…. x Stillthebasisofasmallcommercialfisheryinthe CoorongLagoon,butimpactedbythepresenceof Fishpiledupafterabigcatch.Photosource:GarryHeraͲ thebarrages Singh. 22 Tracy Hill – A low-tech, low-impact fishery Tracywasbornin1962, humanrulesifyou’reworkingwithnature, andinitiallyworkedin andremember,thisisn’tlikeafarmerwho’s Boat Meningieatthe‘Bankof gotafencearoundapaddock,andhe’s s fo cleared the land, and he’s planted this and TheLowerLakes,withr ftheirhighlyvariableand SouthAustralia’.There ish donethat.Wehaveabsolutelynothingbut unpredictableconditions,presentandachallengefor shemetGlenn,whohad fishers using boats. The centre of Lakefis naturetoworkwith.Andthatprocessisa hin grownupinMelbourne. AlexandrinaisclassifiedasopenͲocean,whereg muchmorebaseinstinctthananythingelse. Inthemid‘80shewas howlingwindsfromtheSouthernOceancanwhip workinghiswayaround Sincestarting,TracyandGlennhavebuilt upmonsterwaves. Australia,doingwhateverworkhecouldpick thebusinessupandnowemployafulltime Intheearly1900sLakesfishersusuallyhadone up.HecametoMeningieandbefriendeda deckhandfortheboatandsixpeopleintheir larger18ftsailboatͲonefourthoroneͲthird professional fisherman. After going out one Coorongmulletprocessingroomsbehind deckedforward.Thisboatcarriedthemfrom home base in Milang or Goolwa, across the Lakes thehouse. nightashisdeckhandhewashooked. tomidͲweekcamps.In1907oneobservernoted: Themenwhogohookingarenearlyallfamily Instinct for fishing men–goodfearlessboatmen.6 TracyandGlennhavesincemarriedandshe Ngarrindjeripeopleoftenworkedwiththefishers at campsites. Smaller boats, dinghies or flatties isnowhisbusinesspartner. wereusedtomanoeuvrearoundtheshoresand Heboughthislicencein1990.Asfarasolder swampssettingseine,gillanddrumnets. proͲfishermenareconcerned,he’sanewkid Boatsmadetherun ontheblock. homeonSaturdayto meet the rail for Glennfishesatnight,settinghisfiftymetre market,andfishers netsaccordingtoconditionsatthetime.He spentSundayswith haslearnttounderstandthewindand theirfamilies. waves, the weather, and how to find the Sailingboatswere rightnookorcrannyinthemanyplacesin eventuallyfittedwith wateryareasaroundMeningie.Hesays. motorsfromthe 7 GlennHillrunningbigmeshnetsintheCoorong.Photo 1950s. Youreallyneedtothink:caveman.You’re source:GarryHeraͲSingh(PhotonotesCourtesyofGlennandTracy Photosource: reallyactingwithnature,andthereareno Hill). GarryHeraͲSingh. 23 Hard times for flounder Tracyexplainshowthechangesintheflow fromwateruse,sometimesthousandsof Tracylamentsthechangesinthesouthern B kilometresaway,showupinthenumbersof arr lagoonoftheCoorong,whichisnow age fishattheendofthesystem. Forfishtheconstructions anda historicaloperation hypersaline(uptofivetimessaltierthanthe nd ofthebarrageshascreatedaseriesfisofhproblems: sea)andatriskofecologicalcollapse. Becauseofthelackofflowsthere’sbeenno realbreedingevents,exceptinsomeisolated x thechangefromfreshtosaltwaterisabrupt Theyusedtogettwohundredtonneof littleareaswherethereisfreshwatercoming x fishcan’tmovearoundthesystematwillto flounderoutofthesouthernlagoon.And outofthesandhills.We’dgettoaspotwith findfood,refuge,migrateorspawn hundreds of tonnes of bream. Back in the ourmulletnetandwe’dgetalltheselittle x waterlevelshavebeenmorehighlyregulated seventies,earlyeighties,there’sguyswho’ve fiftycentsizeflounders.Andyouknow paidfortheirwholefreezersandprocessing ThebarragespreventseawaterenteringtheLakes they’vebred,buttroubleis,they’renot and River. During times of flow, the barrages are plantswiththemoneyfromtheflounderin reachingmaturity.Wealsonoticethatwhen openedtopassinflows,allowingfishand thesouthernlagoon. thewaterfromthesouthernlagooncomes freshwatertoreachtheCoorongandsea.Stable GarryHeraͲSingh’smaternalancestors upintothenorthernlagoonyou’llgetdead waterlevelshavecreatedconditionssuitablefor startedwhalinginVictorHarbour1854Ͳ60, flounder.Theycan’tswimveryfastsothe introducedspecieslikecarpandredfin. hypersaline water can overtake them – if it’s whilehispaternalforebearsfishedthe Underdroughtconditionswaterregulationand deoxygenatedwater,they’lljustturntheir LowerLakesfrom1900.Garrycontinuesthe extractionforhumanuseupstreammeanthe toesupanddie. barrages are kept closed, preventing the familytraditionasacommercialfisherbut movementoffish,nutrientsandfoodmaterialsto worriesaboutthechanges. A sustainable professional theCoorong.Thisisthoughttobeoneofthemajor It’sdifferentforthespeciesthataremarine factorsthathasdegradedhabitatsandcaused fishery declines in fish populations of the region. dominant,inotherwords,theyliveinthe ocean,theygrowandreproduceintheocean Tracyhasbecomeanactivememberofthe Toovercomesomenegativeimpactsofthe anddon’trelyontheCoorongparticularly.If SouthernFishermen’sAssociation.Sheis barragesLakewaterlevelsarenowoperatedwith theCoorongweretodisappeartomorrow veryproudthatthisFisheryhasundergone greatervariabilityandallocationsofenvironmental thenthosespecieswillstillcontinue.Butthe restructuring.TheHillsholdoneofonly36 waterareimprovingtheLakesCoorong connection.Fishwayshavealsobeeninstalledin estuarinedependentspecies,theblack remaining licenses. They have also theGoolwaandTauwitcherebarragesandmore breamandthegreenbackflounder,the participatedinanauditcarriedoutunder areproposed. congolli,they’realldoomed.They’reinvery, therulesoftheMarineStewardshipCouncil. verylownumbers. StudiesatTauwitcherehaveindicatedmorethan Asaresulttheyareinternationally 30fishspecieswillusethefishwaysandmillionsof recognisedasasustainablefishery. fisharelikelytousetheminasingleyear!5 24 MarineStewardshipCouncilendorsementis Inmygrandfather’sday,allthoseguys thehighestenvironmentalstandardfor recognisedthatwhatwedidwassustainable. W fisheriesintheworld,andwe’vegotit.We Thisfisherywasthefirsttoputoutan in d bri werethethirdfisheryinAustraliaafterthe environmentalmanagementplanfora ‘Windseiching’isthengmovements ofwaterbywind Western Australia rock lobster and the commercial fishery in the world. We energy. Wind is a major driverfoo of water movement d for MacquarieIslandicefishery,whichoperates completedthatin1998.Andthenthe intheCoorongandLowerLakes.Water flevelsish downintheAntarctic.TheMSCcertification conservationgroupsgotinterestedinwhatwe betweenLockandWeir1nearBlanchetown and asasustainablefisheryisforourfourmain we'redoingandWorldWideFundforNature, Wellingtonvarybyupto50cmdailyduetothis species:goldenperch,mulloway,pippiesand whichhasasustainablefisherysectioninit, effect. mullet. wereinterestedinwhatweweredoingand Windsiechingisimportantforkeepingthe theycoͲsponsoredusintogettinga Coorong,LowerLakesandMurrayMouthhealthy. certificationprocess.Soitwasjustanother Thiseffectisbelievedtoincreaseoxygenlevelsin wayoftellingtherestoftheworldthathey, thewateranddistributesnutrientsusedbyplants it’snotoverͲfishedandrundownbecauseof andanimals,inparticularfish,forfood. theproͲfishers. Windseichingalsoplaysapartinfloodirrigating theforeshoreoftheLowerLakes,encouraging Anotherprofessionalfisherman,Henry plantgrowththroughlatesummer. Jones,explainswhyitissoimportantto balancecaringfortheenvironmentwith bestpracticesinbusiness. Irealisedmanyyearsagothatifweweren’t sustainablethenthepublicwouldn’tputup Mullet,oneofthefishthattheHillsarecertifiedfor withus.They’dgetridofus,soIthinkthatis asasustainablefishery.Photo:JodiFrawley. probablywhywe’rethelastcommercial fishermenontheriver,becausewe’vedone One of the first allthiswork. One of Tracy’s professional colleagues, Garry TheLakeforeshore,suchasseenherenearMilang, HeraͲSingh,thinksthiscertificationpartly benefitsfromwindgeneratedwateringinhot comes down to the practices that have been weather. Photo:JodiFrawley. inplaceforgenerationsoffishersinthe CoorongandLowerLakes. 25 Making connections
Different communities - different Therewerepeoplefromoverthewestcoast, peoplefromdownthesoutheast,peoplein connections thenorthofAdelaideandthebluecrab Ngarrindjeriman,JackKoolmatriewasborn people.Wehadquiteafewgroupsandwe mobilised the women in this area to raise the inthe1910sontheCoorong.In1980,he profileoffishing. toldBonitaElyaboutthewayshehadgot abouttheCoorong: Womenhavebeenandstillareimportantto the success of fishing activities in both WeusedtorambleallovertheCoorongand downtheCoorongonfoot,rightfromthe AboriginalandEuropeantraditions.Some travelledwiththeirhusbands,livingin ReedsliketheseonthebanksoftheMurrayfurther MurraymouthdowntoKingston.AndthenI upstream,usedtobeacommonsightontheedgesof doneitwiththeboat;thenItravelleddown campsandcaravansastheyfollowedthe theLowerLakes.Photo:MalcolmWilksch. onthepushbike,andhorse.AndthenIgota fish.Ngarrindjeriwomenhaveastrong bitwelloff;Itravelleddowntherefrom traditionofweavingfishingnetsusinglocal KingstonandbacktoRabbitIslandinaFord reeds. TacrosstheCoorong.1 Beingpartofafishingcommunityisalso importanttoTracyHill.Shesitsonthe SouthernFisher’sAssociation,andhas workedwithotherfishingbusinessesand familiestoraisetheprofileoftheirfishery. Sheisalsoanadvocatefortheplaceof NgarrindjerireedweaversEllenTrevorrowand NoreenKartinyeriatBonnyReserveontheCoorong women in the fishing industry. 1 2008.AnnieandJackKoolmatrierecalled: Agroupofwomeninthewildcatchindustry Theyusedtostringtheirownnetswithatypeof rush.Theyusedtogetthislonggrassandthey’d formedtheWomen’sIndustryNetwork.We BethelGoldfinch,picturedhereinthelate1940s,was chewittomakeitpliable,thentheywouldlayitout weretheonesthatwereunderattackallthe oneoftheCoorongfisherswhoworkedalongsideher inthesuntosortofcureit.Thentheywouldmakea timefromthepublic. husbandReg,travellingintheircaravantowherever netjustthesameasanynylonorcottonnet. Photo source: Gerry Hera Singh (Photo notes thefishwere. Ͳ Photosource:NationalLibraryAustraliaPIC/12975/5LOCCold CourtesyofDandJAyres). StorePICCHAP. 26 Anothergroupofpeoplethataremaking Loca connectionswiththeCoorongandLower C l re Lakes are those interested in the on eds f goll or N environment,especiallyfromascientific (Pseudaphritisurvillii–tupong,i sandy) Ngarrindjeriwomenandgachildrenrrin havealways harvestedthereedsfromtheedgesdjerofLake perspective.JohnYellandandTerrySim Alexandrina and Lake Albert. i we aving havebeeninvolvedwiththeStrathalbyn Thehistoricalrecordsshowthesametechniques Naturalists’Club,theRiver,Lakesand whichNgarrindjeriwomenusetoday:arangeof CoorongActionGroupInc.andtheLakes differenttypesofweavingtocreatebaskets, Hub.Johnexplainstheimportanceofthe stringbagsandnetsforfishing. waythegroupworkswithscientistsfrom the South Australian Museum and other ThesearemadebyweftͲtwining,knottingand coiledbasketsmethods.Reedsarestrippedand agenciesanduniversities. Photo:GuntherSchmida. thendried,andcouldbesoftenedbychewingor x Smalltomediumsizedfish,maximum35cm,that TheStrathnaturalistgroupwasreally wovengreenasacommunalactivityonthe lives3Ͳ5yearsintheMurrayͲDarlingBasin shoresoftheLakes.Likefishing,weavinghas incrediblyvaluablefortheareabecauseit x Foundwithlogs,rocksoroverhangingbanks.Its alwaysbeenanopportunitytogatherfor broughtpeopletogetherwhowere eyeplacementontopofitsheadallowsittobe storytelling. interestedintheenvironmentfromaround partiallyburiedinleaflitterorsand thewholeregion.Mymumwasoneofthe Oncecomplete,wovenitemstrappedfish,acted earlymembers.Italsobroughtinexpertsand x Movesbetweenfreshwaterandseawateraspart askeepernetsandwereusedtostorefishas of their life cycle suddenly, you have a crossover of specialist theywerecarriedfromthewatertothe x Knowntomigrateupto215kminlowerMurray campsite. andlocalknowledge,whichisfantastic. (butuncommonupstreamofWellington) Basketsandotherhandwovenartefactsbecame x Spawninwinterandearlyspring.Femalesresidein itemsforsaletocuriousimmigrantsandtourists freshwaterandmalesintheestuary.Bothappear –providingimportantincomestreamsfroma tomovetomarineenvironmentstospawn traditionalandtimeͲhonouredpractice. x Largeupstreammigrationsofjuvenilesfromocean Ngarrindjeriwomenareinternationally /estuarytofreshwaterinsummer recognizedfortheircreativityindesignand x Eatssmallfish,aquaticinsectlarvae,small weavingskills.Womensharetheirskillsat crustaceans,snailsandworms weavingworkshopsthatareregularlyheldat x Threatsincludebarrierstomovementanddeclining CampCoorong. AproductivedayfishingatPointSturtonLake riverflows Alexandrinainabout1958.Photo:GrahamYelland(Source: JohnYelland). 27 AcompositephotoshowingtheexpanseofwateratLakeAlexandrina –theMurraymouthisouttheresomewhere.Photos:JodiFrawley. Ng arrin Belonging The Ngarrindjeri flag wasdfirstjeflown on 21st ri JackKoolmatriesawmanychangesinthe Healsorememberedhowhisgreat November1999atKumarangk(Hindmarshflag Island). CoorongandtheLowerLakesoverhis grandfather,whowasanexcellentfisher, lifetime.WhenhetalkedtoLeighHobbain continuedNgarrindjeritraditions:1 1980, he remembered the way that his great Mygreatgrandfatherusedtogetoutearlyin grandfatherwouldtraveluptheDarling themorning,andhehadhistwocorroboree RiverasfarasWilcannialookingforwork sticksandhe’dcorroboreewiththem,early andmeetingupwithotherAboriginal inthemorning.Thatwastheirtradition.He’d peoplealongtheway.ButtheCoorongwas gooutandrunhisnetsintheearlyhoursof alwaysaspecialplace. themorningwhenwewerelivingonthe Coorong.He’dhavearealgoodcorroboree ThedotsrepresenttheeighteenLakkinyerisofthe Thatwasthetradition–theyweren’tlazy whenhegotout,youknow.Thatwaslike NationwhoareallcalledtoTendibythescared likesomepeoplethinktheywere.Mygreat boomerang. The traditional spears used for fishing sayinghewassatisfiedandpleasedwith grandfather,hegotoutearlyinthemorning, takeprideofplaceinthedesignwiththewatersof whathegotfortheday. andhe’drejoiceandhewouldsinghis theCoorong,LowerLakesandSouthernOceanall language and dance – a great dancer he was representedinblue.Thesun,centraltoalllifein –justtobringthenewdayforhim.Hewas NgarrindjeriCountry,isacentralmotifofthe design. happyallday. TheflagfliespermanentlyatCampCoorongnear Meningie. 28 Visions for the Coorong and Lower Lakes Thefishingpeoplewhocontributedtothis And the big picture projecthavealltalkedabouttheirhopesfor Fish thefutureoftheriver.Manyfelttheyhad JohnYellandandTerrySimthinkthatrather re During the recent drought,scwateru levels below seensomeimprovementsbutmostdon't thaneveryonethinkingabouttheirown e! backyard,peopleshouldthinkaboutthe LockandWeir1droppedtosuchanextentthat feeltheriverisashealthyyetastheywould wetlandandrefugeareasforanumberofsmall Murray Darling Basin as a whole. Terry says liketoseeit.Eachofthesefisherssuggested Ͳ nativespeciesdriedup.Quickactionby waystohelptheriverandinturnhelp Wewouldliketoseetheriversystemlooked committedvolunteersandgovernmentagencies providehealthyhabitatsforfish. afterasawholesystemandlookedafter ensuredthelastremainingpopulationsofpurple spotted gudgeon, southern pygmy perch, Yarra fromthemouthupratherthanfrom pygmyperch,Murrayhardyheadandriver upstreamdown.Wecan’tunderstandwhy The little things … blackfishdidn’tdisappearforgood. peopleupstreamcan’trealisethatwhat’s HenryJonesisamemberoftheCommunity happeninghere,ifit’snotfixed,it’sacancer Intensivesamplingforthesefishwascarriedout StakeholderTaskforcefortheMurrayͲ thatwillmoveupthroughthesystem.There atlocationswheretheyhadbeenknownto occur. As many individuals as possible were DarlingBasinNativeFishStrategy.During isafairbitofpain,asfarashumansgo, collectedandtransportedfishtoaquariawhere thedrought,Henryobservedthewaythat especiallyforirrigationandorchards,butthe theywouldbesafe. scientistsworkedhardtoensurethe environment’shadthepainforthelast100 protectionofthesmallerfishofthesystem. years.It’smaintainingitselfbutit’snothing Sincebeingincaptivity,someofthesefishhave likeitusedtobe.Andwe’vegotthatlittle donereallywell,notonlysurvivingbutbreeding! Imeanwehadscientistsgoingintolittle Theirgeneticsarebeingmonitoredcarefullyto windowofopportunityofrepairingit.If poolsandtakingouttheYarrapygmyperch makesuregeneticdiversityismaintained. you’vegotahealthyworkingriverandit’s andMurrayhardyheadsandputtingthem flowingtothesea,everyoneshouldbe NowthatwaterlevelsintheRiverMurrayand intoaquariumsandtryingtokeepthem happy. LowerLakeshaveimproved,thesefishareable alive.Whenthewatercomesbacktheycan tobereleasedbackintothewild. putthembackinandthespecieswillnotbe Specialcongratulationsandthanksshouldgoto lost forever. We’ve got a whole heap of thevolunteersincludingindividuals,community speciesherethatareuniquetothisarea,and groupsandschoolswhohavecaredforthese unlesswecandothingslikethat,orunless fishduringtheirtimeincaptivity. wecanfixtheMurrayͲDarlingBasinandput FormoreinformationcontactNativeFish somewaterbackintheriverandmakeit AustraliaSA:www.nativefishsa.asn.au. sustainable,thentheywillkeepondying unfortunately. YarraPygmyPerchsavedfromLakeAlexandrina. Photo:MichaelHammer. 29 TracyHillisoptimisticforthefuture–ifwe cangetthingsright. Fis h com Howaboutjustfixingtheenvironmentup, Fish monitoring atmtheu barrages and island overflow n iti andthenitwillbethereforeverybody. channelsin2007Ͳ08identifiedes upoto33freshwater, 9 f t MotherNaturedoesallthisstufffornothing. estuarineandmarinespecies. he a Itusessolarpowerandwindpowerandit rea Monitoringofislandchannelandlakeedgehabitats‘ does it for nothing. Our motto is ‘look after recorded26freshwaterandestuarinefishspeciesin theenvironmentandthefishwilllookafter 2005Ͳ07.14 themselves’.Anditwillrespondbeforeyour eyes. TheestuarinesmallͲmouthedhardyheaddominated thecatchforboththesestudies,butotherfish capturedinlargenumbersincluded:bonybream, Australiansmelt,flatheadgudgeon,introducedEastern gambusiaandredfinperch(freshwater)andTamar rivergoby,sandyspratandyellowͲeyedmullet (estuarine).14,9
Speciesthatmovebetweenfreshandsaltwaterto completetheirlifecycle(congolliandcommon galaxias)werealsocapturedinlargenumbers.9
Overthelastdecade,theextensivedroughthas resultedinasignificantreductioninfreshwaterflowto theLowerLakesandCoorong.15Intheestuaryand Coorong,monitoringofblackbreamandgreenback flounderhasseenasignificantdeclineinabundance andrecruitment.15 TheLowerLakes,CoorongandMurrayMouthare TheMurrayMouth–theendofaverylargeriversystem The lack of inflow also has serious implications for the one of the Icon Sites of the Murray Darling Basin. This whichhasdiverselanduses,regulationandsignificant Ͳ designation recognises the unique cultural, social and degradation. EndangeredSouthernpygmyperch,Yarrapygmyperch Imagesource: andMurrayhardyheadthatrelyonthespecifichabitats environmentalvaluesofthisplaceaswellasthe http://www.thelivingmurray.mdbc.gov.au/__data/page/1482/WAL foundintheislandoverflowchannelsandwhichcould uniquethreatsitisfacing.Theacknowledgementof KER_report1.pdf belostifinflowscontinuetodecline14occuronceagain. andrespectforculturalheritagevaluesisan importantaspectofthearea’srehabilitation. Photos:JodiFrawley. 30
3131
Source:BarryPorter.Source:ScottNichols.Source:TracyBye.Source:JohnAston. Source:ScottNichols. 32
HowardHendrickhaslivedmostofhis lifeclosetoKatarapkoCreek.Hegrew upa‘Blocker’andgainedhisownblock aspartoftheReturnedSoldiersScheme afterWorldWarTwo.Photo:JodiFrawley. BarryPortergrewupinBerri.He workedontheriverbargesinthe1970s, travellingfromtheMurrayMouthto Mildura.ItalsomeantBarryexplored, andfished,alotoftheriver.Photosource: BarryPorter. TracyBye,picturedwithherson,Jack, hasfondmemoriesofbeingtaughtto fishbyherfatherandlongsummer holidays camping and fishing by the river.Photo:JodiFrawley. KingsleyAbdullagrewupontheGerard community.Hebelievesincontinuing andbuildingontherelationshipshis peoplehavehadwiththeriverfor millennia.Photo:JodiFrawley. 33 …Murraycod…atRenmarkandLoxtonthisfishwasso abundantlastseasonthatpeopleusedittofeedfowlandpigs! TheAdvertiser,Wednesday11September1912 34 Introducing the river and its people OnceknownasCrabb’sCreek,Katarapko LikeotherMurraygroupsalongtheRiver,the The Arrival of the Europeans CreekisasmallanabranchoftheMurray OldPeoples’storiestellofthechasefor River,locatedbetweenthetownsofBerri Pondi–theMurraycodancestor–acrossthe ManypeoplehavecometotheRiverlandasmigrants, andLoxtonintheRiverlandregionofSouth land.ThethrashingofPondi’stailcreatedthe andfishinghasbeenawaytoexploreanewplaceand to put down roots in a different environment to the Australia. Its 9 000 hectare grey clay wide channel of the Murray as well as the onetheyhadgrownupin. floodplainiscoveredwithblackbox,saltbush lagoons,billabongsandcreekslike andlignum.Thecreek’shorseshoelagoons, Katarapko.1 SinceEuropeansarrivedthehealthofthe marshes and islandsarethetraditionallands riveranditsfishhasbeenshapedbythe oftheMerupeoples. peoplewhocametolivethereandthe industriesthatdeveloped.Grazing,dryland Chasing Pondi farming,steamboattradeandirrigationall neededdifferenttypesofworkers,bringing ThisisMerucountry,wheretheEriwarung, newpeoplewithnewneedstotheriverand Moorundi, Barmerara, Maru and Narwij Ͳ newwaystocatchfish. jerookgroupsalllivedalongwhatisnow knownastheRiverland.Largegroupslivedin semiͲpermanentcamps,huntingfishand birdsandcollectingmusselsfromthefoodͲ richwetlandsandwaterwaysoftheMurray andKatarapko.1 Today,theFirstNationsPeople(Riverland) AwetlandareanearRenmarkthatstillhasreedbeds arepartoftheWalkandiwoniconstellation andriparianvegetation.Photo:ScottNichols. thatsharecreationstorieswiththe PeramangkandNgarrindjeriofthemidand lowerMurrayrespectively. Intheseplaces,Aboriginalpeopleseemore thanauniquewaterway–theyseethe essence,excitementandpowerofthe Fishingandhuntinghavebeenimportant ancestors. waysofsupplementingdietsforalongtime. Photosource:BerriBarmeraLocalHistoryCollection,BerriLibrary& InformationCentre.
35 Commercialfisherswerethefirstindustryon BythetimetheReturnedSoldierSettlement theriver,viablebecauseoftheabundanceof schemesstartedafterthefirstandsecond Fish nativefishintheriver. WorldWars,watercertaintyallowedthe ing f ‘Blockers’togrowfruitandgrapes.They Professionalfishermenohaver mfeaturedinthe Enormousgrazingrunsborderedlengthsof history of the river around Katarapkoark Creek. fishedforfoodandfun,justasAboriginal et theriverandledtomorepermanent Thefishingindustrypredatedthegrazingruns people were continuing to do. settlements. inthe1860s.Thedepressionofthe1890s Today,Katarapko’sredgumandriver increasedthenumberofprofessional TheSouthAustralianGovernment’sVillage fishermen, who regularly fought over fishing coobahͲlinedwatersleavetheMurraynear SettlementSchemeinthe1890ssawupto rights.Combinedwiththedrought,theysaw LockandWeir4,rejoiningtheriver16km 400peoplearriveenmasseandgrowfood fishnumbersdeclinedrastically.Fishwentto later. crops. marketonsteamboatsandlaterbyrailand road. Successive governments encouraged In1923,thegovernmentdeclaredlicensesfor irrigationsettlementsbybuildinglocks, ‘reaches’whichonlygavearighttofish,but weirs,channelsandpumpingstations.Many noclaimonthewater,riverbanksorthefish peoplebeganbylivingalongtheriverin themselves.By1936therewere195reach tentsmadefromtinandhessianbags. holdersintheMurrayRiveraboveLake Alexandrina. Fishingandhuntingwereimportantwaysof supplementingtheirdiets.Aboriginalpeople Fishingsupplementedincomeswhenitwas combined with working on irrigation blocks. workedalongsidethenewimmigrants, Businesseswerefamilyaffairs.Some shiftingfromstockworktotheseasonalfruit memberssetnetsandhauledcatch,while industrylabour. otherstarrednetsandrepairedknotsinthe mesh. Deadboxtreesandabundantpigfacearetheresultof alteredwaterregimesandincreasedsalt.Photo:Scott Professionalriverfisherstodaycancatchonly Nichols. yabbiesandnonͲnativespecies,suchascarp.7 Katarapkohasseenmanychangesasits MenlikeGilliStoneham,JohnAstonand waterswereblocked,floodplainsgrazed,and MalcolmWilkschhavefishedtherivermost surroundingirrigationdistrictsflourished. oftheirlives.Theirstories,too,arewoven intothehistorypresentedhere. BerriEvaporationBasinandKatarapkoIsland LabourintensivefurrowirrigationinearlyRiverland DisposalBasinhavebothtakenatollasthey orchards.Imagesource:CobdoglaSteamMuseum. collectedsaltyirrigationdrainagewater. .
36 Howard Hendrick – Growing up as a Blocker Howard’sparentscameto Howardandhisbrotherhadtofeedthe RenmarkaftertheFirst chooks,pigsandcowsbeforebreakfast.And Com WorldWartosettlean afterschooltheywouldcutlucerneand ing In1887,theChaffeybrothersto cametoRenmarkhoping irrigationblockat collect vegetable scraps for the animals as th 3 totransformthedesertintoaneirrigation R settlement. Renmark.Hewasbornin ive wellaschopwoodforthestove.During Thegovernmentalsoencouragedimmigrationrlandwith 1923andgrewupnear harvesttheboyswouldtakethreeweeksoff communalVillageSettlementsacrosstheRiverland, RalRalCreek. school to help out. Fishing and the river includingatNewResidence,PyapandLoxton’sHut. 2 wereawelcomediversionfromlifeonthe Althoughearlyirrigationschemesfailed, governments continued to believe in engineering solutions for A favourite stretch of the river block. securingwaterforagricultureandtosupportthe HowardnowlivesatPyap,nearthemouth AndIlookattheRalRalCreekitlookslikea irrigationindustry. ofKatarapkoCreek.Inhisyouth,hisfamily river,sovastandbig.Therewerelotsoflogs favouredonestretchoftheriver,nearthe intheriver,lotsoffallengumtreesoverthe house,forswimming,fishingandrelaxation. yearsanditwasameccaforfish.Inthose Howardremembers: days,codwasequallyasplentifulascallop andbream.Theywerethethreemainfish. Most of the blockers were fairly poor on the Therewasasprinklingofcatfish,butIdon’t whole. We were fairly self sufficient. We had Ͳ rememberseeingperchorcarpinthoseearly ourowneggs,wehadourownmilk,we days. Imagesource:CobdoglaSteamMuseum. madebutter,andwehadourown PumpingstationsinitiallystoredwateroffͲriverand vegetables.Thatwasanothergoodreason A lovely place to cool off gravityfeditthroughhandͲbuiltchannelstocrops. thatwewentfishing,itwasagood Largegangsofmenwererecruitedfromthecityto supplementforus.Wewentfishingoften Howard’sfatherwasaverykeenfisherman. buildthechannels.Later,waterwaspumpeddirectly becauseweneverhadanyfridgesandyou Fishing,hesays,enhancedtheirsociallife, fromtheriver. couldn’tkeepthefishverylong. becauseonSundaystheywouldjointhe ReturnedSoliderSettlementschemeswereintroduced otherfruitblockersattheriver.Sometimes afterbothWorldWars,andthesmallerblocks A welcome diversion atthewideststretchoftheRalRal,dozens associatedwiththeseschemesbroughtmorepeople to the area.4 The schemes required land clearing, offamilieswouldgatherforpicnicsand Howard’sfamilymainlygrewfruitforthe whichincreasedtheareasavailableforplantingcrops driedfruitmarket–sultanas,raisinsand swimmingonhotsummerdays. butalsochangedthewatertablesaroundKatarapko currants. Creek.Thiscontributedtodevelopingsaltproblems.
37 Asyoungchildrenwe’dgodowntotheriver The Depression years Perfect bait for cod anditwaslovelyplacetocooloff.Infactthe placehadlovelyshadytrees,hadnicegreen TheDepressionyearsmeantthatthe Thesmalleranimalsthatlivedintheriver grassonthebankanditwasaniceplaceto Hendricksbecamemorereliantonthe weresoplentifulthattherewasalwaysthat putarugoutandsitandhaveapicnic. resourcesavailableintheriver.Adayonthe perfectbaittocatchcod. MeantimeIhadthreeorfourlinesin.In river also meant catching and collecting We’dalsodiveintheriverasboys,alittlearea thosedays,Idon’trememberanybody baitsfromthelocalarea. weknewwassafeandtherewasalways havingaboatliketoday,everybody’sgota So actually fishing was a very cheap way of musselsavailableinthebedintheriver.So tinnyboat,includingme.Soyouneverwent entertaining for a family. Didn’t cost us we’dgetmusselsforcod.We’dalsocatch upanddowntheriver.Youjustwenttoone anything for bait, ’cos all the bait was littlefrogsandyou’dgettheminthebarkof placeandthereyoustayed. availableintheriver.Andwhatwe’ddo,first thegumtrees,you’dpulloffbarkandthere’d thing,myfatherwouldshootabird,andthat beafroghibernatinginthere.Orwe’dget ‘ wouldgoinashrimptin–wellreally,diptins. littleyabbiesyou’dalsogetintheshrimptin. Loc So that was the main bait for cod. k the Diptinswereusedontheblocksowehada Afterthefinalyear rivoftheFederationdroughtin lotofthem,itwaslikeamoreorlessbetter 1902,dreamsofdroughter,proofingthelandsawcalls un thananet.Soyoutiedthebird,cutithalfand to‘locktheriversandunlocktheloland’.TheRiver Using water for irrigation ck putitintheshrimptin,sowegotshrimps. MurrayWatersAgreementwasapprovedthein1915, lan DuringtheyearsbetweenWW1andWW2, withaninitialproposalfor26weirsfrom d’ BlanchetowntoEchuca. irrigationonHoward’sfamilyblockwas gravityfed.Waterwaspumpedoutofthe In1929LockandWeir4wascompleted.Itspanned theMurraybetweenwhereKatarapkoCreekleftthe riverandheldinstorage,thenreleaseddown riverandwhereitrejoined.Thenewweirmeant milesandmilesofmanͲmadechannels. thatwaterwascontinuallypusheddownthecreek Howardremembers: fromthehigherupstreampool.Theweiralso changedconditionsforfishbreeding,limiting Inthosedaystherewasnosprinklerirrigation, migration.StablewaterlevelsreplacedsmallͲ nopumps,itwasallgravityfed.Sothewater mediumrisesthatfishusedasbreedingcues. wentdownthevinesandyouhadtodirectit downwithshovelsandmakefurrows.Andthey Asearlyas1934,SAFisheriesblamedthelocksfor AmasHarvey(Jack)HewardwatchinghissonFrank had a bulkhead that held the water back ‘cos it fishdecline.Fishpassageisbeingimprovedonlocks HewardfishingnearBerri,1950. andweirsinSouthAustraliaandupstreamtoHume wasagravitychannel,wentformilesfromthe Photosource:BerriBarmeraLocalHistoryCollection,BerriLibrary& pumpingstation.AndeventuallyendedupinRal Damasfishwaysarenowbeingbuilt–over90years InformationCentre. aftertheywererecommended. RalCreek.Thebulkheadsheldthewaterbackso thatmanygrowerscouldwateratonetime.
38 Alsoofcoursethesaltcontentincreasesas therivergoesdown,andthatmayhaveabit The ofeffectonthenativefish,becausethey're ris NativefishintheMurrayͲDarlinge of evolvedtotolerate usedtothefresherwaterfromyearsago.It saltlevelsthatfluctuatedwiththesnaturalalt cyclesof wentverysalty,ohIdon'tknow,20years droughtandflood. ago.Irememberweconvertedallour Duetounderlyinggeology,thelowerreachesofthe overheadsprinklersabovetreestounderͲ Murrayhavealwaysfunctionedanaturalpathwayfor tree,becausethesaltinthewaterissohigh removalofsaltygroundwater.Duringfloodsorhigh itwasburningtheleavesonthetree.Soall rivers,thesewatersarediluted,butduringtimesof Bythe1950ssprinklerirrigationwasbeingdeveloped. the irrigation practices on the Riverland lowflow,watertableswouldbeexposedandthe Bythe1970smanyconvertedto‘underͲtree’systems changed, to watering under the trees and salinityoftheriverwouldincrease. toavoidsaltdamagetofoliage.Imagesource:Cobdogla Native vegetation was the key to keeping a balance SteamMuseum. underthevinesratherthanoverthetop.I thinkbecausewhentheriverswerehighit betweenthewatertablesandsalinity.Thesystem changed when there was widespread clearing for wouldflushallthebackwatersoutwherethe grazingandcropping.Earlygrazingrunsandthe Over the twentieth century, more blockers salthadaccumulatedintheriver. OverlandStockRoutehuggedtheriver,aslivestock cametotheRiverland,moreirrigationwas neededaccesstowater.However,thestockdamaged builtandmorewaterwaspumpedfromthe theriverbanksbyeatingandtramplingthe river.Howardandhisbrotherbothgot vegetation.In1917,800bullockswerepasturedat 5 blocksatLoxtonasWW2veterans. KatarapkoCreek. Croppingandaninternment‘woodcamp’at Salt KatarapkoduringWW2,meanttreeswereremovedto fuelpumpingstations,producefenceposts,andmake 6 Salinitybecameanewproblemforthelocal wayforirrigatedcrops. Lossoftreesandadditionof communitiestomanage.Oneofthechanges irrigationwaterraisedthewatertableandbrought saltclosertothesurfaceaswatersevaporated. to Howard’s block was the introduction of Attemptsweremadetoflushsaltsawaybyadding overheadsprinklers,butthesewherethen morewatertocrops. changedagaintothemoreefficientdrip Therisingwatertablehasbeenaseriousproblem irrigationusedtodayintheRiverland. fromthe1940s,necessitatingevaporationbasinsto TheBerriEvaporationBasin(pictured)drainagescheme disposeofsalinedrainagewater.Todayatmany startedin1942,althoughsaltanddrainageissueswere prioritysites,‘saltinterceptionsschemes’actto notedatBerriExperimentalOrchardasearlyas1923. collectsomeofthesaltygroundwaterbeforeit Photo:ScottNichols. reachestheriverandredirectittoevaporationbasins awayfromthefloodplain.
39 Barry Porter – Spending time on the water
Barrywasbornin1949.Asa Yabbying,anhistoricinstitution.1956we Wepreferredveryshallowwater,nomore youngstergrowingupinBerrihe hadahugefloodhere,1957wehadthe thanabouttwofeetofwater,youactually lovednothingmorethantograbhis biggestyabbyrunI'veeverseen.Itwaswhat hadtorowaroundinthefloodplainbefore pushbikewithhisbrotherandhead youdidafteraflood.Whilethefloodswere theflood’sgonerightdown.Yabbiescame offtotheRiverwiththeircordͲlines upyougettheyabbynetsout. outofthemudtobreed. attachedtobamboorods. Barrydescribestheiryabbynetsastwowire hoops,withthebottomonecoveredinbird Yabb Families out fishing meshandthesidesmadefromanoldwheat (Cheraxdestructor)y Theprofessionalfisherslockedupthe bag.Heremembers: reachesaroundBerri,sothefamilywould Whentheygotwettheywereveryheavy. oftentraveloutoftowntothrowalinein. Inthe‘50swe’dtravelacoupleofmiles outsideofBerri,becauseyouknewyoucould catchfish.DadandMum’sbrotherwouldgo outintheoldboat,rowingandfishingwhile Mumlookedafterthetwokidsonthe Photo:CharlieCarruthers. riverbank.Plentyofotherfamiliesdidthe x Seldomover250g samething.Weusedtofishfairlyregularly. x WidelydistributedinSEAustralia Probablyacoupleoftimesaweekinthe summer.Thefamilywouldbeoutprobably x Foundinponds,billabongsandslowflowing streams atleastonceafortnightbecauseitwasa cheapadditiontothefamilyfood. x Moreactiveinthewarmermonths,lessactive whenwatertemperaturesarebelow14°C Barry’sfatherwithacatch.Photosource:BarryPorter. Floods mean yabbies x BreedfromSeptembertoMarch Theregularfloodwaterofthe1960sand x Fastgrowing:canreach50ginfirstyear InBarry’sfamilythefloodsmeantyabbies. 1970sfilledthemyriadofwetlands,lagoons x Growfor6Ͳ7years AsthefloodwatersintheMurrayorthe andbackwatersofthelocalKatarapko Darlingmadetheirwaydownstreamtothe floodplains.Asthewaterspeakedand x Reductionofbackwaters,floodplainsand billabongsbiggestthreat,overfishingleadingto Riverland the Porters were preparing for started to recede, the signal was up for the localisedlosses floodplainadventure. boystoheadoutyabbying. 40 On a barge on the river thatwe'vegotatthemoment–cutnew passagesthroughtheflatsinafewplaces. AsayoungmanBarrygainedhiscrane Upstream of Katarapko Creek, irrigation driver’slicenseandinthe1970shesecured schemes have been developed for many ajobonapileͲdrivingbarge.Hisfirstjobwas industries. Barry says upstream irrigation tohelpinstallalltheeffluentdisposal means they don’t see the small floods they stationsforthehouseboatsthatwere used to. The loss of small flows and the becomingsopopularwithtourists. fewer,smallerfloodsofthe1990shave The barge travelled up and down 1 400 changedtheriverinwaysthatpeoplemight kilometresofriverbetweentheMurray TheS.S.EllenatBerri.Inthe1840s,localsdreamedof notsee.Barryexplains: mouthandMildura.Aswellasdrivingpiles, theriverasatransportroutetothegoldfields.A We used to drive straight down the middle of thecrewmaintainedandrebuiltlocksand decadelatershallowͲdraftsteamboatsmoved produce,includingfish,tomarket.Bargesremoved theriver,nowwe’reweavingaroundlooking helpedoutwithoddjobsatthepumping snagswithsteamͲdrivenwinchestomakeclear foraspotthrough.Peoplelookattheriver stations along the way. They also helped to passagesforlargerboats.Thewaterthenmoved and,ohthere'splentyofwaterthereandit’s removesnagsthatwereanavigationhazard alongthechannelfaster,scouringtheriverbedasit 150metreswide,butwhattheydon'tknow went. By the time the locks and weirs were built rail fromthemainriverchannel. isthatmostofit’slessthanametredeep. andlaterroadtransporthadreplacedrivertrade. HowardHendrickrecallshowtherewere Photosource:BerriBarmeraLocalHistoryCollection,BerriLibrary more fish in the creeks, where they didn’t &InformationCentre. Working on the salt problem removethesnags: Sincethe1980sBarryhasworkedforSouth Yearsagotherewasanotherveryfamous I’ve seen islands grow AustralianWaterandtheDepartmentof fishing spot, the Katarapko. The fish seemed Water,monitoringsalinityanddeveloping Workingonthebargewasagolden tolikecreekswhereallthelogshadfallen programsthatmeasureandidentifysalt opportunitytoexploretheriverbyfishing overtheyears.Whereasinthemainriver plumes in the river. and to see the changes to the river theyusedtoclearitforthepaddlesteamers, clearthelogsoutandmakeitasafe environment. passage.Wherenooneworriedaboutthe I'veseenislandsgrowwheretheyweren't creeksbecausetherewasnobigships,or before.Especiallyoverthelast20yearswhen boatsrather,goingupthecreeks,sothey wewereoutinsmallboatsaheckofalot werefulloflogs.Andthatwasamarvellous more.We’venoticedthroughthe‘70sthat breedingplaceforfishtofeedandcatch thebigfloodsshiftedahugeamountofsand shrimpsandallthatsortofthingtoo. around.Thisformedtheshapeoftheriver 41 FishingremainsBarry’sfavourite recreationalactivityandhespendsasmuch Snag timeonthewaterashecan.Fishareno s, c Untilrelativelyrecentlyrathereys waslargescale longerasplentifulastheyusedtobe.He removalofsnagsintheRiverMurray& coto doesn’tseetheperiodicmovementofthe improvenavigationasthisstoryfromd channelintheriverasaproblemforthe Adelaide’sTheRegisterNewsshows: fish.Hesays: ‘TheS.SIndustryhasbeenbetween Lock4andLoxtonforsometime… Idon'tthinkthatthatsortofchangeaffects About50largesnagshavebeen Barryworkingonthesalinityissuesaffectingthe thefishasmuchasthechangesinflow.It’s removed.Somewere50feetlongand MurrayRiver.Photo:JodiFrawley. justanothersymptomofthelackofflows, yardsround.Tacklingbrokelikepieces thegradualdryingofthebottomhalfof ofstringwhenthesehugelogswere Australia. beingliftedclearoftheriver.Codand largecrayfishdroppedoutofholesin thelogsͲwhichCaptainHarryBrand consideredhadbeenontheriver's bottomforhalfacenturyormore.’ (TheRegisterNews(Adelaide),26February1930) x Snagswerealsoremovedbecauseitwas thoughttheycausederosionofriverbanks, howeveritisnowrecognisedthatinmany casesthepresenceofsnagscanactually reduce erosion by protecting the river banks Barryatplay.Photosource:BarryPorter. x Therewasalsothemisconceptionthatsnags increasedfloodingbyreducingtheamountof waterthattheriverchannelcouldhold. Undernormalcircumstancesthisisnotthe case x Themaintenance,protectionandrestoration ofhabitatincludingsnagsareobjectivesof These river red gums are dying theSARiverMurrayAct2003 duetoincreasedsalinityand changedcyclesoffloodand dry.Photo:ScottNichols. 42 Tracy Bye - For her father, a fisherman Tracywasbornin1964and Always keep the callop cametoliveintheRiverlandin themid1970s.Herfather, UnlikemanyfishersintheRiverland,Tracy ColinSchultz,purchasedthe andColindidn’tchaseMurraycodasa ShelldepotinLoxton.Withher favouritefishfromtheriver.Tracy brotherandsister,Tracylearnt remembersthatthethreemostcommon tofishfromherDad.Fishingwasawayto fishwhenshewasgrowingupwerecatfish, exploreandputdownrootsintheirnew redfinandcallop. home. Ididn’tlikecatfishwhenitwaseasytocatch Tracyseestellingherstoryasawayof them.They’rejustuglythingsreally.They payinghomagetoherfather’sloveoffishing werejustslimylooking,horriblethings.Dad andtotalkabouthowimportanttheriveris usedtokeepthem,ofcourse,whenwewere able to, but in preference we’d always keep inalltheirlives. ColinSchultzoutontheriver.Photosource:TracyBye. thecallop.It’sjustsuchabeautifulmeat. Dad loved Katarapko Creek Colinpatientlytaughthischildrentobait theirlines,wheretocastandhowtogeta DadwasborndownthesouthͲeast,sofrom fishintotheboat.Tracyevenlearnthowto allaccountshewasprobablymoreofasea filletthefish.Butbeingontheriverwasalso fisherman.Buthejustfellinlovewiththe anopportunitytotakeintheriver. river.Imeanit’ssuchabeautifulstretch HereallyenjoyeditandIthinkthat’swhywe here.HelovedgoingupKatarapkoCreek, enjoyitdowntheresomuchaswell,because getting away from some of the speedboats wewerebroughtuptoreallyappreciatethe andotherpeople.Hehadhisspecialsecret coloursandthewaterandthetrees.Ican spotsthathe’dcomehomewithallofhis remembersittingwithhimforages.We’dbe fishandnottelluswherehecaughtthem. lookingatthetreesanddiscussing,you Hewasabittightlippedsometimes. know,whatwaswrongwiththemorwhich onelookedlikeitprobablyhadabirdinthe BarryPorterwithacallop.Photosource:BarryPorter. hollowandallthatsortofstuff.Itwasreally interesting.Hejustlovedit. 43 All the comforts of home becamedarker.Nowit’squitemurky.Itjust alwaysdone.Tracyissurethatithelpedhim seemstobedifferent.Italmosthastakenon tocope. OvertheChristmasholidays,theSchultz quiteagreyͲgreentinge.AsachildIcan And I think he found that it was quite nice familywouldcampforsixtoeightweeksby rememberitalmostbeingblue. theriver.Tracy’smumwasn’tquitethe justtogetawayalittlebitonhisownand OverTracy’slifetimetherehavealsobeen deal with things in his own way. He also used passionatefisherastherestofthefamily.So dramaticchangestothevegetation,bothin tohaveafavouritefishingspotdownaround Colinwouldtakeageneratortotheriver theriverandonthebanks. thebottomofKatarapkoCreek,andwhenhe and hook up all the comforts of home. wasdiagnosedthesecondtime,withcancer, There’salotmoreweedgrowingintheriver Heusedtotakethegeneratorforhersoshe hejokinglyusedtosaytohisfriendthathe aswellasfromthebottom.Ican’tremember coulduseherhaircurler.Shewouldputher usedtogofishingwith,that’swheremy havingtowalkthroughweedasakid,or hairincurlersandputacaponandsitthere ashesaregoing.Sowhenhedidpassaway havingweedticklingyourlegsasyou’re withthehotairblowing.Wethoughtitwas that’swherehisasheswent,uptoKatarapko cominginfromtheboat.Whereasthat’s quitefunny.Hedidwhateverittooktomake Creek.Andthat’sjustwhereheshouldbe. quitecommonnow. sureMumwashappydowntheresoshe’d stayforthatlittlebitlonger. Occasionallyyouwouldseeduckweedcome through.Weusedtohavefightswithit, Whilethefamilystayedatthecampsite, whereasnowit’squitecommontoseelarge Colinwouldtravelbackandforwardtowork patchesofit.Therearenowreedsgrowing atLoxton.Oftenhe’dgiveafeedoffishto inandonthesideofthesandbars.Some peopleheknewwouldappreciateit: sandbarsweusedtogotoaskidswerejust Peoplewhoperhapsweren’tthatwellorhad pristinewhitesandrightdowntothewater. losttheirhusbandswhohadbeenfishermen. Nowtheyhavereedsalloverthemgrowing rightintothewater. Tracysays:Thismagnificentoldrivergumproudly Clear water and white sand marksthespotofDad’sashes.Photosource:TracyBye. ThingshavechangedintheriversinceTracy Finding peace . first came to the area. One of the things that In2000Colinwasdiagnosedwithcancer, she’s noticed is a difference in the colour of whichhadadevastatingimpactonthe the water: family.Fishingbecamearefugefromhis Ithinkthecolourofit.LikeIsaid,itwasquite illness.ByKatarapkoCreekColincouldfind clear.Whenweusedtogoyabbyingaskids thepeaceandquiettojustdowhathehad intheriveryouwouldseeafootoutbeforeit
1990s 44 Kingsley Abdulla - Passing on what our grandparents taught us Kingsleywasbornin1976 M andgrewupattheGerard urra (Craterocephalusy h fluviatilis) AboriginalCommunitynext ardyh toMurrayRiverNational ead Park.Asaspokesperson forthiscommunity,hesits on the Katarapko Creek Photo:GuntherSchmida. DemonstrationReach SteeringCommitteeandhe’dliketosee x Smallfishupto7.6cm,commonly4Ͳ6.5cm Only found in the southern part of the Basin moreAboriginalparticipationinthe Rainbowfish,asmall,prettynativefishfoundin x managementoftheNationalPark. theMurrayͲDarlingBasin.Photo:GuntherSchmida. x Foundinlakeedgesandwetlands,prefersopen, shallow,slowflowingorstillwaterwithasandyor Learn to sit still and be quiet! siltbottom;sometimesfoundindeeperwaterwith denseaquaticvegetation Soifyougettheyoungonestodothatthen Wheneverabigmobwentfishingand x Cansurviveinhighlysalineenvironments youcanstillbetaughtyourtraditionalway camping,storytellingamongstthe Spawn from September to April andnonͲtraditionalwaywhichisgood.I’ve x generationstookonadifferentemphasis. nd grownupwithbothsoIcandoa x Shortlived,onlysomeadultssurvivetoa2 year Oneofthefirstlessonsinfishingistolearn combinationofboth. x Eatsmicrocrustaceans,aquaticinsectsandalgae tositstillandbequiet–onethatKingsley x Formerlyabundant,nowveryrestricted sayswasnotalwayseasytolearn!Butonce Callop, Pondi and Thukeri kidsgetit,hesays,listeningbringsmuch WhenAboriginalfamiliesgooutfishing, and morethanknowledgeaboutbaitingahook. oth Kingsleysaystheyfavourthebigfishofthe Othersmallspeciesfounderin theMurrayͲDarlingBasin That’swhenwe’dtakethetimetoeducate sm Murraytobringhomeforafeed: includegudgeons,Australiansmeltalland rainbowfish. all the younger ones about their history and fis Thesesmallfishoccupyvarioushabitats:someh prefer You’ve got the yellowbelly. We call them howweusedtodothings.Topassonwhat wetlandsandoffchannelhabitats,otherspreferfast ourgrandparentstaughtus. callopupthisway.You’vegottheMurray flowingmainstemwaterwaysorheavilyvegetated cod,whichwecallPondi.Andthenyou’ve sites. Most have small home ranges but will move gotyoursilverbream,whichwecallThukeri, upstreamiftheydriftorgetwasheddownstream. thatfloatsonthetopofthewater. 45 Catfisharenolongerpresentinthenumbers that they were in Kingsley’s youth. Flo w in c Yougettheoddoneortwobutthemajority Inthesummerof1829oͲ1830mpCharlesSturttravelledby boat from the MurrumbidgeeleRiverx to the Murray River havealldisappearedsomehow.Idon’tknow s y mouth.Sturtdescribedavarietyofhabitats,ste fromwide, why.It’sprobablybecauseofwhat’sbeen ms slowͲflowingpoolsto‘rapids’andnotedontheir return happening with the salt and everything else. journey:‘Shoalsfrequentlyimpededusaswe They’redrivenawayorthey’vestopped proceededuptheriver,andwepassedsomerapidsthat breeding,becausethere’snowaterinthe calledforourwholestrengthtostem’. backwaterswheretheycanbreed.Sothey Today,thelocksandweirsonthemainstemMurray haven’tbredupfor10or15years,maybe Riverhavemadetheriveraseriesofconnectedweir longer. pools,withuniformslowͲflowinghabitatatmostflows BulyongCreek,Chowilla.Photo:ScottNichols. exceptfloods,andfastͲflowinghabitatmainly Katarapko and Chowilla restrictedtoanabranchsystemsortributaries. TheOldPeople'sstoriestalkaboutthe Theseconditionshavebenefitedsomenativespecies The back ponds connectionsbetweenKatarapkoCreekand likebonybream(bonyherring)andcarpgudgeons,but alsotheintroducedcarpandredfin.Specieslike Fishbenefitfromregularwaterflowinginto Chowillawetland,acoupleofhundred Murray cod and callop, that prefer fast flowing thewetlandsaroundKatarapkoCreek. kilometresupstream.Theconnectionsare habitats,havebeendisadvantagedbythecreationof importanttotheAboriginalpeopleofthe weirpools. KatarapkoCreekisimportantfornativefish tobreed,saysKingsley: Riverland.Kingsleyexplainshowthetwo InSouthAustralia,themostcomplexanabranchsystem systemsdiffer: isChowilla.Ithasstreamswithdifferenthydrological It’sgoodwhenthewatercomesupbecauseit characteristics,aquaticplantsandwoodydebrisand actually builds the back ponds up where they do Theyaretwodifferentsystems,buttheyare includespermanentcreeks,ephemeralcreeksand all the breeding. As they grow they follow the related.They’rebothrelatedbutthey’re lakesthatfillatdifferentriverlevels.TheChowilla waterdownandbackintothemainrivers.We differentcousins.Likefirstandsecond system therefore acts as a microcosm of what the usedtodomostofourfishingintheback cousins.UpatChowillait’smoreopenand lowerMurrayRiveroncewas.Itsupportsadiverse, creeks,wherethewaterwasabitmorestiller it’sgotadryland.Morelikeanaridtypeof healthynativefishfaunaincludingoneofthemost and it was a lot warmer than the river. The wetlandupthatwaycomparedtodownthis significantMurraycodpopulationsinthelowerMurray river’s constantly moving and it just brings the way,whichismorewidgeeriverclay.Up River. coldwaterwithit.Andthebackwatersarenice thereit’smoresandyandstufflikethat, Like Chowilla, Katarapko Creek and floodplain possess a andwarmforthebreedingandeverythingelse. whichistwodifferentecosystems.Totally. varietyofhabitatsandbecausethecreekpasses aroundLockandWeir4,itsfastflowinghabitatsare preserved,benefitingspeciesthatpreferthese conditionslikeMurraycodandcallop.8 46 Butitisnotjustthefishthatbenefit. Not enough water Managing salt Kingsleypointsoutthatalltheanimals,trees Theeffectsofthedroughtoverthelast Thesaltinterceptionbasinsareimportant andrivervegetationneedthatwaterto fifteenyearshastakenitstollonthe featuresofsaltmanagementinthearea. survive. MurrayͲDarlingBasin.Thisdryhasbeen Peopleseethesesaltinceptionbasins Wellifyoudon’tgetwaterintoyourback evenmoredevastatingontheKatarapko differently.BarryPorter,forexample,argues creeks,youdon’tbuildupwhattheycallthe thanearlierdroughtsbecauseofthelower thattheseschemeshaveseenan nurseries, which is for all animals. If you andlowerflowscomingdowntheriver. improvementinthewaterquality. haven’tgotthosetheycan’tgobackintothe mainriversystem.Andoncetheyfillupthe Whenthere’snotmuchwateraround, Becausewe'vetakenthesaltinterception blackswansandduckswillcomeback. thevegetationdecreasesandthenthat schemesandtackledthebigsaltascensions, opensuptotheelementslikethewind. we’reactuallyremovingprobablyhalfofthat W Andthewindisthebiggestone.Ifyou saltbeforeitgetsintotherivernow. etlan haven’tgotanywindbreaksitwilljust Kingsley,ontheotherhand,seesthesalinity Priortoriverregulation,allwetlandsds around scorethroughanywhere.That’sthe problemsoftheareaasinterconnectedwith Katarapkowouldhavedriedoutperiodically.Post biggestonewe’vegot.Andonceyou’ve otherpressuresthathavebeenbuildingover regulation,severalbecamepermanentandwere gotwaterandrain,ifthereisn’tany the last three decades. blockedtopreventwaterloss. groundcover,itdestabiliseseverything, Awetlandisn’tnecessarilyalwayswet;howevera I'veseenitgofromlovelyandlushtogrey especially if the water had dropped back wetlandneedstobewetlongenoughtosupportthe anddreary,whichalotofthetreesarejust plantsandanimalsthatliveinitforatleastpartof toofar. gettingkilledofbysaltbecausethere'snot theirlifecycle,likemostofthe46fishspeciesnative enoughwatercomingthrough.Plusyougot to the Murray Darling, which use them for feeding, Ͳ theexpansionoftownsandcitieswhichis spawningandnurseryhabitat. There go the windbreaks evenworse.Pluspeopledoingcropping.So WetlandslikeKatarapko’sNgakIndauarenow Sincethe1980s,croppingandagriculture justtheirtechniques,somewilldocropping, managed using flow control structures so that it can hasincreasedacrosstheRiverlandandthe somewilldospraying.Andthesprayingswill bewateredordried. Riverina.Thesalinityintheareahas getintonativebushesandthatactuallykills increased. afairbitofit.Whichtheydon'tintentionally dobutit’sjustwiththeirdriftsome The salt levels come up and the acidity in the chemicalsjustwipetooutalltogether. sandandthatjustkillsallyournativetrees aroundtheedges.Andthentheregoesthe windbreaks. Photos:SADepartmentofEnvironmentandNaturalResources. 47 Making connections Belonging thatpoint.Sothefisheriesofficersaid,Ithink that’saprettyfairargument.Andhesaidto TracyBye’sfamilyfelttheyhadcometo mydad,‘Andwhatdoyouthinkweshould belongontheriveraftertheymovedfrom callthiscreek?Ithasnoname.’Andhesaid, Adelaideandstartedfishing. ‘WhataboutSquabblyCreek,’andthat’s whatitwasnamed. Wedidn’tfishwhenwewereinAdelaide, downatthebeach.Butassoonaswehitthe Murraywewerethereallthetime.Itwould havebeenwhenIwas11or12thatwefirst startedfishing.Isupposeitallboilsbackto Dad,andhehadanabsoluteloveofthe ColinSchultz’sloveoffishingliveson.Tracy’sson, river.IcanremembergoingdownwithDad Jack,andnephew,Will,areaskeentolearnasTracy inhisboat.Andheusedtoputupwithso andhersiblingswere.Photo:TracyBye. muchfromuskidsbuthealwaysencouraged ustogodownwithhim.Henevergotany A professional relationship fishingdonehimself,becausehe’dspendthe GilliStonehamandJohnAston(senior)both whole time baiting us up, untangling us. He fishedtheMurrayaroundRenmark.A wouldjustspendeverywakingmoment commonproblemwaswhocouldfishwhich downthereifhecould. partsoftheriver.GilliandJohnsquabbled ThroughoutKingsleyAbdulla’slife,fishing withanotherproͲfisherovertheboundaries hasbeenanimportantpartofAboriginal oftheirreaches. communitylife. John’sson,alsocalledJohn,recallshowthis JohnAston,athirdgenerationprofessionalfisherin Wewerealwayscampingandfishing wasresolvedandhowacreekgotnamed. theMurrayRiver.Photosource:JohnAston. especiallyduringtheholidays,especiallyin Johnjuniorfeelsthathisfamily’shistoryis the warm weather. Always on the river. We’d permanentlypartofthehistoryoftheriver. goasafamily.Theclosefamilyaswellasan extendedfamily,pluscommunitymembers. Dadwenttothefisheriesdepartmenttotry Sometimes40or50ofuswouldgoout andresolvethisargument.Andtheysaid campingattheonetime. well,whatishisareaofit?Well,hesaid,Gilli Stonehamwasworkingfromthispointto 48 Knowing the fish thatweighed68poundswhencleaned.The teacheraskedmewhyIwaslateforschool.I MalcolmWilkschtookupaprofessional Stat toldherandshesaidtoshowherthecod.I e of fishingreachin1957andtookthetimeto rowedtheteacherdownͲrivertowherethe TheSustainableRiverstheAudit(SRA)isanongoing systematic assessment ofririver health of 23 major learnasmuchashecouldaboutfishhabits codwastetheredandtoldhershecouldpull ver rivervalleysintheMurrayͲDarling–Basin.‘ in his area. itupoutofthewater.Wellthefishreallylet poo Environmentalindicators(themes)includer’ herhaveitandalmostdrownedher!5 We’dhavetofindthebaitthefishwere hydrology,fishandmacroinvertebrates,whichare 6 bitingonthatyear,theyneveratethesame GilliStoneham’swife,Gladys,recalledanold monitoredandwillhighlighttrendsovertime. foodallthetimelikeyou’dexpect.Quite wivestaleforusingmusselshellsthatshows TheLowerMurraywassurveyedin2005.Boththe oftenwe’dstartoffwithmussels.Andsome thatahealthyrivercanalsoprovideforthe LowerMurrayValleyfishcommunityand yearswouldbeallyabbies.OneyearIfound EcosystemHealthwereconsideredtobein‘Poor healthofthepeoplewholivearoundit: Condition’. aspotwheretherewasverylargeshrimpin theoffseason.Icaughtbigcodonthoseas Weusedtobakethem,grindthemupand Only35%ofpredictednativefishspecieswere well. anysores–weusedthemasapowder. caughtfromthe‘upperzone’(nearLock3).The Awonderfulhealingpower. ecologicalcommunitywasdominatedbyalienfish BeforeDartmouthDamwasfinishedin (64%). 1979,waterwaspulseddowntheriverfrom Part of life AbundantunͲspeckedhardyhead,bonyherring, LakeVictoriaandthroughthelocksand Australiansmelt,MurrayͲDarlingrainbowfishand A lifetime spent fishing in Katarapko Creek Murray Darling carp gudgeon dominated the weirsforirrigators.Judgingthereactionof Ͳ and around the Murray River near Loxton nativefish.Carpdominatedthealienspecies thefishtotheserisesandfallsinwaterlevel meantthattheriverhascometobean captured.Easterngambusiaandgoldfishwerealso meantMalcolmcouldadjusthisweekly found. important place of renewal and timetable: contemplationforTracyBye. AfterawhileIrealisedthatIreallyonlyhad tofishthreedaysaweek,cosonlythreedays Ihadn’trealisedhowoftenweradiatedown oftheweekthefishwouldactuallybite. towardstheriverforthingsthathappenin ourlives.Myhusbandproposedtomedown Bigcodwerealso,naturallyenough,a theriver.WhenDadpassedaway,without favouriteforyoungboys.NormDixonwasa evenrealizing,wetookthekidsdownthe youngboywhenheandhisschoolteacher rivertotellthem.ItendtogodownthereifI hadthisencounterin1910: needsometimeout.Soit’sjustplayedsucha vitalroleindifferentthingsthathave LowerRiverMurrayLobstersreadyformarket. Iusedtodoabitoffishingbeforeschool, happenedovertheyears.I’dfinditreally Photosource:StateLibrarySouthAustralia(SLSA: andonemorningIcaughtabigMurraycod PRG1258/2/2495). hardnottoliveneartheriver. 49 Visions for Katarapko Thefishingpeoplewhocontributedtothis Sincethen,hehasbeenbreedingthefishin projecthavealltalkedabouttheirhopesfor aquariumsinhisgarage.Thespecieswas thefutureoftheriver.Manyfelttheyhad declaredextinctinSouthAustraliain2000 seensomeimprovementsbutmostdon't andnowToddworkswithotherbreedersin feeltheriverisashealthyyetastheywould Adelaideandanumberoflocalschoolsto liketoseeit.Eachofthesefisherssuggested ensuretheirsurvival. waystohelptheriverandinturnhelp Wellbasicallythisisit.Thisisallwe’vegot. providehealthyhabitatsforfish. Theseguysusedtobesocommon.Theyused tobeusedascodbait,aslivebait.They’re This is all we’ve got partofthefoodchain.They’regenetically A week’s catch of Murray crayfish in 1955. distinct from the other populations around ToddGoodmanisarecreationalfisherona Photo:JohnAston. mission.In2007Todd’sfamilydiscovereda theplace.Everyoneyoutalktousedtocatch smallpopulationof50southernpurple themaskids.Theyusedtobeallthroughthe irrigationchannels.Butthey’rejustoneof Future health spottedgudgeonsinawetlandadjacenthis thosespeciesthatforsomereasonhasjust father’sholidayshack. RetiredprofessionalfisherJohnAston disappeared.AndIsupposebeingonour voluntarilygavehislicenseupin1996.The propertywefeltthatitwasourobligation. long years of drought from 1992 until 2000 Originallyitwasonlygoingtobefor12 months,nowwe’refouryearson.They’ve wereatimewhenthefishdidnotbreedas domesticatedreallyeasy.Whywouldn’tyou regularly.Johnbelievesthatreducingthe wanttokeepthem?Theyareagreatlittle professionalfishersatthatpointwas fish. beneficialtothefuturehealthoftheriver. Soinmyopinionifthefishermenhadbeen lefttherelongenough,thenumberofcod wouldhavegonedown.From1992tonow, 2010,wehaven’thadanywater.Inthat periodifthefishermenhadcontinuedtobe inthereitwouldhavemadeadramatic ToddGoodman’saquariumswhereheisbreeding Southernpurplespottedgudgeons(Mogurnda differenceonournativefish. southernpurplespottedgudgeon.Photo:JodiFrawley. adspersa).Photo:GuntherSchmida. 50 HowardHendrickwouldliketoseemore waterallowedtoflowtohelpthewetlands maintainthemselvesforlongerperiods betweenhighrivercycles.Hesays: Butthelast12Ͳ14fourteenyearswe'vehad nofloods,nobreedingupandthesefishhave goneoutandthere'sveryfewarebeing hatchedoutandcomingdownthisway.So it’sfallenoffwiththefishingalot. KingsleyAbdullaseespestmanagementas one way to help the fish. He sees the CarparkLagoonduringawetphase. removalofcarpasbeingimportantfora Photo:SADepartmentofEnvironmentandNaturalResources. healthyriver. ThesetwophotosillustratethedifferenceinwetͲ Thecarpcanbeclassedasaweedandpest, phaseanddryͲphasevegetationatCarparkLagoon. youcanhaveyourlandͲbasedweedsand Reinstatingnaturalcyclesofwettinganddryingcan beanimportantwaytohelpmanagepopulationsof pestsandyourwaterͲbased. pestfishlikecarp,whichlikepermanentstillwater. HealsoseesaspecialrolefortheGerard Aboriginalcommunityinrejuvenating KatarapkoCreekfornativefish. I’dliketoseecoͲmanagementwiththe The‘TreeofKnowledge’indicatestheheightsof GerardcommunityontheNationalParkas floods,thehighestbeing1956.Photo:JodiFrawley. wellasotherreservesaround. CoͲmanagementwouldmeanthatwewould belookingafterthelandandwater.We coulddevelopteamstodocertainprojects likeweedsandpestsandrevegetation.
Carpark Lagoon after it has been dried, showing dry phasewetlandplants.Photo:SADepartmentofEnvironment andNaturalResources. 51 51
Low er & e th G An h re ab a r t a nc Source:William Riley. Source:ScottNichols. Source:WentworthHistoricalSociety(at ‘Kalcurrha’,donor:PatsyCrozier;2007Ͳ29Ͳ1Ͳ8). Source:JodiFrawley. 52
William Riley is a Paakintji man who was taught tofishbyhisGrannyQuayleandhisaunties.He fondlyremembersthefamilyfishinggatherings. Photo:JodiFrawley. BillLeverlivesatWentworthandisa commercialfisherwhohasworkedtheMurray, DarlingandGreatDarlingAnabranchsincethe 1960s.Photo:JodiFrawley. RodStonehasbeenontheWentworthAngling Club’scommitteeforovertwentyyearsandis currentlyservingasthepresident.Theirhome baseisatFortCouragewheretheyhave100 acresrightontheMurrayRiver.Theywelcome travellingfisherstotheircampandcaravanpark onthegrounds.Photosource:RodStone.
JennyWhymanisaPaakintjiwomanand representativeontheNorthernBasinAboriginal NationsCommittee(NBAN).Jennybelievesthe riverneedstobelookedafterwhenitsdryso thatfishgetthebestchancetosurvivewhen thereisplentyofwater.Photo:JodiFrawley. 53
We…passedthebankofabeautifulpieceofwater….Thislake wasbrimful,anovelsighttous;theshiningwatersbeing spreadintoahorseshoeshape,andreflectingtheimagesof enormousgumtreesonthebanks.….Itseemedfullof fishes,anditwasprobablyofconsiderabledepth,beingfreefrom weeds,andcontinuingsofullandclearthroughoutsummers whichhaddrunkupalltheminorstreams. TheJournalofThomasMitchell(1839)1 54 Introducing the river and its people TheLowerDarlingRiverandGreatDarling The heritage of Paakintji fishing The arrival of the Europeans AnabrancharelocatedinsouthͲwestNew AboriginalheritageoftheGreatAnabranch TheDarlingRiverprovidedapathwayfor SouthWales.Muddywatersmeanderover andtheLowerDarlingdatesbackatleast explorers,overlanders,graziersand thegreysoilfloodplainspastreddunes,spiky 36000years.Paakintjipeoplehaveexplained bushrangersfromthe1830s.In1853,the saltbushandgnarledredgums.11000years thattheriversystemisimportanttothem firstriverͲboatsmoveduptheDarlingand ago,theDarlingRiverchangeditscoursejust foritsculturalandspiritualexpressionof portswereestablishedatWentworthand southofMenindeeLakes,leavingtheGreat theirheritage,itsmanysacredsitesand Pooncarie.Produce,includingfish,wassent Anabranch’s460kmchanneltodryandflow burialgroundsanditscontinuingprovisionof tomarketalongthisriver‘highway’. intotheMurrayonlyduringbigfloods. medicinesandfoods.2,3 Thesearethetraditionallandsofthe Thislongheritageisvisibleonthebanksof Paakintjipeople. LakeTandou,wherewindformeddunes (‘lunettes’)offineredsandlinetheedgeof inlandlakes.Withintheselunettes, ArchaeologistJaneBalmeuncovereda campfireinthe1980s. Initshefoundthebonesof357yellowbelly fromasinglemeal.Radiocarbondating found they were 25 000 years old.4 ToPaakintjipeople,thereisstillnothing Rivertransportwascriticalforthesurvivalofearly settlementsalongtheDarling.Photosource:Wentworth betterthanafishfeastfromacampfirewith HistoricalSociety. familyandfriends. Pastoralstationswerevastandhomesteads For11000years,theGreatAnabranchhasbeen andoutbuildingswerelocatedclosetothe separatedfromDarlingRiver,onlyflowingintothe rivertoensurewateringpointsforlivestock. MurrayRiverduringbigfloods.Photo:WilliamRiley.
55 Theintroductionofsheep,cattleandhorses In1886,GeorgeandWilliamChaffeysecured graduallychangedtheriverenvironment, 250000acresfromtheVictorian degradingbanks,reducingnativegrassesand Governmentandbeganthedevelopmentof saltbushesandaddingnutrientstobothland irrigationschemesalongtheMurrayand andwater.Thesestationsemployedboth DarlingRivers.Inthisarea,Wentworth, AboriginalandnonͲAboriginalpeople,who Pomona,ComeallaandDaretonallstarted allenjoyedfishingforfunandfood. irrigatingfromtheearly20thCentury. Thearrivalofsoldiersettlersaftereach worldwarmeantsmallerblocksandmore permanentpeopleinthearea.
Theintroductionoflivestockhadaprofoundimpacton theriverbanks.Photosource:WentworthHistoricalSociety. TheplaquecommemoratingtheoriginalMenindee punt.Thetextreads:Beforetheconstructionofthe Menindeerailandroadbridgein1927,theonlymeansof Surveyors,possiblylookingatdivisionsforSoldier crossingtheDarlingRiverwasbypunt.TheoriginalMenindee SettlementSchemes–oneofthesignificantland puntwasinstalledin1862andwasrunonacommercial developmentactivitiesthataffectedtheriversofthe basisbyamannamedTurkeyCreekSmith,wholivedonthe river bank adjacent to the punt. As sheep were regularly MurrayͲDarling.Photosource:WentworthHistoricalSociety. carriedacrosstheriveronhispunt,hekeptapetsheepto Vineandstonefruitsweregrownforthe coaxmobsofsheepontotheunfamiliarpunt.In1882,itwas supersededbyanewpuntinstalledbytheNSWGovernment driedfruitmarket,andwinerieseventually adjacenttothePoliceBarracksinNoraStreet.Passengers, joinedfruitandvegetablegardening. goodsandlivestockweretransportedacrosstheDarlingRiver Irrigationkickedofftheannualrhythmof freeofchargebythenewgovernmentservice.Fortunately PropertieslikeDunlopStationontheDarlingRiver, theoriginalpuntremained,asseveralweeksafter seasonalworkerswhooftenlivedalongthe commencing, the government punt suddenly overturned and picturedin1886,employedavarietyofpeopletowork river while they picked fruit and worked in sankandcouldnotberefloateduntiltheriverlevelsubsided. the land and in the homestead. Photo source: National Photo:ScottNichols. LibraryofAustralia(PIC/9228/16LOCPICAlbum76). thefactories.
56 William Riley - I’m trying to get our people to rally now In1934,WilliamRiley,a Paakintjiman,wasbornin Fishing with Granny The White Cliffs, a tiny opal anc WhenWilliamwasinhisearlyteens,his Themainchanneloftheienancientt DarlingRiver mining town in the far father first sent him to an Afghan family in Da oncerandownthecourseofwhatrlweingnowcallthe westofNewSouthWales. BrokenHill.Fromtherehewenttolivewith GreatAnabranch.Thethreadednatureofthis Hisfatherworkedasa hisGrannyQuayleatWilcannia.Onthe wholewebofchannelshasalwaysconsistedof lakes, channels, anabranches and a river channel drover,pushingsheep DarlingRiverhelearnttofishwithGranny thatinterlaceacrossthedryaridlandscape. fromstationtomarketalongtherivers. andacoupleofaunties. Sometimesitdriesdowntoaseriesofpoolsand othertimeswaterflowsacrosstheplains,linking The River! I’dberunningbaitforthem,keepaneyeon theshrimpbucket,diggingforworms.Iwas allthewaterwaystogether. Williamdidn’tseetheriverinthefirstfew abouteightyearsoldbeforetheyletme Fishevolvedinthispulseandresponse yearsofhislife,butboywhenhedid! touchafishingline.Theytaughtmetofish environment–sedentarywhenitisdry,moving on a hand line. A lot of kids didn’t know how andbreedingwhenitiswet.Itisthoughtthemain Well,IwasamazedwhenIsawtheDarling to twirl a line and would get it hooked in channelmovedfromtheGreatAnabranchtoits River.Iwasabout6yearoldwhenIfirst their ear or in the back of their neck. Danger currentpositionaround11000yearsago. crossedtheDarlingRiverbridgeinWilcannia. for a small kid, really. Myniecewasabityoungerthanmeandshe AtthetimeofEuropeancontact,whentheDarling wasinfullflow,thePaakintjiusedcooperative wasfrightenedtocrossthebridge–because In the right conditions, big groups would go fishingtechniquessuchasnetstofeedthelarge the old bridge across the Darling had cracks downtotheriverintheeveningforspecial groupsofpeoplewhohadgatheredtotake intheboardsͲandshecouldhavefallen nightfishing. advantageofthistimeofplenty.Asthewaters through. receded,weirswereconstructedacrosschannels Whentheriverwasreallyrunninglow,itwas andwetlandinletstocontainandcapturefish.As clear as crystal and they used to get down thewatersslowlysubsidedthePaakintjiwould therewithhurricanelights.Sometimeswe’d disperse,andsmallergroupswouldworkthe makefatlamps–‘slashlamp’weusedtocall smallerpoolswithspearsandpoison.8 them.We’dgethessian,rollitupandpour TheDarlingisadynamicriversystemthathas muttonfataround–meltitandfillitupwith alwaysmovedacrossthebroaderfloodplain–and sand while the fat was still hot and you’d itspeople,thePaakintjiandthoseofEuropean lightthehessiananditwouldthrowagood descent,continuetolearnhowtorespondto light.Thelightusedtoattractthefish,and thesechanges. that’showthey’dcatchthem. DarlingRiverchannelinflow.Photo:WilliamRiley.
57 Thewomenfishersinhisfamilywereableto Whattheycalltheblackbreamhasgota pointsandthingslikethat.Mydadwas takefishhomeforpeoplewhodidn’tmake verysmallscaleandmorescalesthanthe prettyproudofmetakingonheavy itdowntotheriver. perch.Andofcourse,they’rehardertofillet machinery,untilIwokeuptomyself. too.They’reverybony.Alotofthinbones. Yellowbelly,bream,therewasneveranycarp William’sattitudestothefarmingthatwas intheriverinthosedays.They’dfeedtheir goingonalongtheriverwerechangedone ownfamilies.Andtheysharedthemwiththe lonelynightshiftoutontheplains. otherfamilies.It’sagreatsportanditkept ThisChinamangavemeabigareatomyself everyoneoutoftrouble.Therewasn’tany toplant,tosowmycropandithadbeen drugsaroundinthosedaysandnotmuch workedbefore,andIdidn’tknow.Therewas alcohol. anearbycreekgoingpast.Iwasonnight shift,Ithoughtthedustwaschangingcolour; butthenIrealized,itwasaburialsite!And justondaybreak,I’veunhookedthetractor Thebonybream(Nematolosaerebi),alsoknownas offthecombine,racedoffthecornerto bonyherring,pyberry,hairbackherring,melonfish preparethemachineforthenextshift,andI andthukari,isahardyfishwidespreadthroughout cameacrossadisturbedgrave,whereI’d lowlandriversintheBasin.It’sanimportantsource beenploughingovertheseburials.Iprepared offoodforotherfishandforbirds.Photo:Gunther thetractor,leftanoteandjumpedintheute, Schmida. gotouttathere–Ifelthaunted,youknow. TheguiltIcarry,andthedamagethat’sbeen TrishJohnson,Paakintjiwoman,withtwocodshe donetoallofourriversandourCountryin caughtfromtheDarlingRivernearherhomeat A young man’s mistake general,that’swhyI’mtryingtogetour Pooncarie.Photosource:TrishJohnson. peopletorallynow. Asayoungman,Williamtookonallsortsof Burialswereoncecommonalongtheriver Lake fish workforthestationownersinthewestern district.Heworkedwithcattle,horsesand corridors,becauseofthesoftersoils.These AsWilliamgotolderhewouldcampat sheep.Asfarmingbecamemechanised,he samespotswerefavouredforploughingand KinchegaNationalParkwithhisfamilyand gotalicenseandtackledthemodern irrigationbythenonͲAboriginalsettlers. friends.TheywouldenjoytheMenindee equipment. Lakes,astimeoutfromtheirdayͲtoͲday Plantingcropsonfarmsandbigproperties, lives.Theycaughtallsortsoffishinthe erectingwindmills,makingcorrugatediron lakes. tanksandtroughs,settingupallwatering
58 I feel sorry for the old cod Whetheroutcamping,ortravellingalong theDarlingforwork,Williamandhisfamily Cod would see commercial and recreational & s x SnagsareimportanthabitatfornabothgsMurraycod fisherstakingadvantageofthewideopen (Maccullochellapeeli),alsoknownas Cod,Guduu, spaces–whichalsomeanthardlyanyfishing Pondee,Pondi,andtroutcod(Maccullochella macquariensis), also known as blue nosed cod or blue inspectors. cod. Ifeelsorryfortheoldcod–everybodygoes x It’sestimatedthat80percentofMurraycodare forthecod,andthey’rejustaboutextinct.I foundwithin1metreofasnag was against the Victorians coming up to x Troutcodmovelessthan500mfromtheirhomesnag, Menindeeandthey’dhavecampssetupall withoccasionalexplorationsof20Ͳ60kmbefore overtheplace.Theywerelicensedfishermen, returninghome ofcourse,butinsteadofFisheriesputtinga Highriverlevels,suchasseenhereatMenindee, providetemporaryhabitatfornativefish.Theytake quotaonwhattheywereallowedtotake, advantageoftheadditionalsnagsandthefoodthat theyjustletthemgoandtheyjusthogged fallsfromoverhangingtrees.Photosource:ScottNichols. everything.Justtoogreedy.Theyusedto comerightupasfarasTilpa.UptheDarling. Setupbigcamps.Boats.Spinnersandall theirfancylures.Andsomeofthemeven carriedgillnetswiththem,whichareillegal. Andtheyjustgottoogreedy.And,evennow, theystillgetawaywithalot. Photo:LukePearce. Inundatedlakesandwetlands,suchasLake Menindee,providecriticalhabitatformanysmall nativefish,yabbiesandotherinvertebrates– importantfoodforthelargerfish.Photosource:Scott Nichols.
59 Bill Lever – Fishing for a living Billwasbornin1926in Inthe1960sBillcametoliveatWentworth WhilemostlyBillfishedonhisown, AlburywherehisDad andstartedheadingnorthuptheAnabranch sometimeshewouldmeetupwithother workedontheHume andtheLowerDarlingtotheMenindee commercialfishersalongtheriver. Dam and his lakes for his catch. Bill almost always fished I’dmeetupwithmymateRoyWilsonwhen grandparentswerethe onhisown,workingfromhis18ftboat, theriverwasrunning.He’dbefishing weircaretakers. settingnetstocatchnativefishformarket. upstreamandI’dbefishingdownstream. During the depression, Butyouknow,thedrumnettingwasthebest We’dcampnearbyortogether.Justsitthere lackoflocalwork livingthough,Ilikeddrumnetting.Plentyof ofanightͲtime,knittingupdrumnets.We’d forcedhisparentsintothedriftto exerciseupanddowntheboat.Itkeptme haveouriceͲboxeswithus.Thereusedtobe Melbourne.Heservedaplumber’s prettyfit.Ifyou’vegot20drumnetsinͲI’d ablokewho’dbringiceupforusfrom apprenticeshipbutquitthedayhefinished shutthemotoroff,walkupthenoseofthe Wentworthonceaweek.Andwe’dhavea because,ashesaid,hewantedtogobackto boatwiththenet,andjumpbackandsetthe tonneandahalfoffishforhimeveryweek. thebushagain. netagain.Gethalfwaybackpullingtheoars, alldependsonthecurrent.I’dbewalking A seasonal catch over a mile a day just up and down the boat. Fishing for a living Thebountyfromcommercialfishinginthe Darling was seasonal – entirely dependent Hegotacommercialfishinglicencein1953, on the flow of water from upstream. justafterhewasmarriedtoJudy. We’d be sweating on rain. Sometimes we WhenIgotmylicenceandwewerelivingat used to get February rains then you’d get a NumurkahIusedtofishtheMurrayaround bit of a flush for Easter. Then we used to Cobram.I’dgouptheEdwardsaround start getting a good river, from the rains in DennyandtheBillabongCreekandusedto March and April. She’d be rising around July. driveovertoEuston,LakeBenanee.Fishedit Every day from then on, the fish were getting allfromNumurkah.Iputinaboutfivedays up steam all the time. More and more every andgohomeandpackthefishandsendit day. The last day in August that was always downtoMelbourne.Echucacanbepretty our best lift. That was also the day when you goodforreddies.I’dsellthematEchucaon DrumnetslikethisonebeingsetinVictoriawere had to pull out. thewayhome.Sheppartonwasalwaysgood usedthroughouttheMurrayͲDarlingBasin. saleforcod.Theydidn’twantreddiesor Photosource:StateLibraryVictoria(H84.488/135). yellowbelly,justcod.
60 TheNSWregulationsclosedfishingin Golden perch was the best 20fishand19ofthemwouldbecarp,and Septembertoallowthefishtobreedandfor youmightcatchonelittleperchor CrossͲborderfishingregulationsregarding numberstorebuildforthefollowingseason. something,that’saboutall. goldenperchbecamemoreofanissuefor Butthewaterkeptmovingdownstream, Lagoonsandbackwatersaretrapsforthe Billinthemid1990s.Inpart,thiswas crossingoverthestateborder,wherethe carp,whodon’talwaysmoveintothemain becauseoneofthefavouredfishforIndian, regulationsweredifferent. channelasthewaterlevelsdrop.Rodhas Chinese,VietnameseandotherAsian seenthisforhimself: Usedtocrythen,usedtocrybecausebloody communitieswasgoldenperch.Atthistime, SouthAustralianblokes,theycouldcatch cookingfishusingAsianmethodsstartedto WeweredrivingthroughBoxer’sIsland golden perch all the year around. We’d knock becomemorepopularamongthebroader tryingtofindwhethertherewasanywaterin offandthey'recatchingperchleft,rightand communitytoo.Billsays: thebillabongtogetatinofyabbies.We centre. droveupandallyoucouldhearwasthese Itreallykickedoninthelast15yearswhen fish.Wewalkedbackdownoverthebank theAsiansstartedgettingusedtoourfish andjustsawthesemassivecarp.Imeanthey R and they reckoned our golden perch was the ule werethreeandfourfootlong.Someofthe s an bestthingthey’deverhad.Theywereour Fishingregulationscurrentlyd r varybetweenall biggestcarpI’veeverseeninmylife.And egu bestbuyers. they were just packed in this water hole. I MurrayͲDarlingBasinstates,somethinglatiowhichhas beenaboneofcontentionforsometime.ns reckontheremusthavebeenamillioncarp The coming of carp inthere,atleast. Asearlyas1928,duringavisittotheRiverMurray inSouthAustralia,theNSWInlandFisheries RecreationalfisherRodStoneworriesabout Officer,Mr.H.K.Anderson,recommendeda thebiggestchangethathehasseentothe number of actions to the SA Minister for riversandtothefishinginthearea:the Agriculture,HonJ.Cowan,whichwouldimprove conditionsfortheBasinfishery. carp. Amongstthesewereascheduleoflawfullengths Whentheyfirstcamehere,probablylate thatwouldapplytobothrecreationaland ‘70s,‘80s,Ireckonforthefirstfouryears professionalfishermen,andbeinlinewiththose aftertheyhithereyoucouldhardlyever inplaceinNewSouthWalesandVictoria. catchanativefish.Theyjustdecimatedthe Inaddition,MrAndersonrecommendedregular nativefishpopulationinmyopinion.Then, openingofLakeVictoria’sgatestoallowfishto afterthat,nativefishstartedtopickupabit. 9 movetotheriver,andfishwaysonMurrayweirs Weusedtocatchnativefishwithcarpinside –somethingthatisonlynowbeingimplemented. them.You’dgodownthereandyou’dcatch Carpareoftenthelastfishleftinadryingwetlandifit waspossibleforfishtoescape.Photo:ScottNichols. 61 Billhasalsoseenchangessincethecarp Carp arrived: Litt Carparrivedinlargenumbers F withthefloodsof Becausecarpwerefeedingonthebottom, le AQ Historically,theMurraytͲhDarlingBasinsupported the 1970s. These fish are now a majors pest in the they ate all the catfish eggs. They just go ing about18speciesofsnails,butsnatural lo populations Basin. st alongsuckingeverythingup.Catfishusedto ofnearlyallofthesehavedeclined. ? layeggsinstonynestsandyoucouldseea Some of these, like Notopala spp., were thought to hollowinthebottomofthecreekwhenit beextinctuntilrediscoveredinthemid1990sin wentdry.Plusallthelittlewatersnails.In irrigationpipelines,wherenumbersarestilllimited. thesummertimewhenweweredrumming, they’dbejustencrustedwithsnails,wehad Notopalaspp.produce‘miniatureadult’babiesand torunourhandsdownandknockthemoff sorequirehighprotein,lowcarbondiets.River regulation is thought to have encouraged carbon otherwiseyou’druintheboat.Ihaven’tseen richalgaeinstableweirpools,meaningthesesnails asnailsincethecarp.Theytellmethere'sa 11 don’tgetenoughoftherightfood. fewdownSouthAustralia,insomeofthe Photo:MillyHobson. pipesthere.Andthatwasthemainfoodof LenHippisleyobservedchangesintheDarlingRiver Howmanyeggsdocarplay? thecatties,plusallthemusselbeds,they overa42yearperiod.Henotedthelossofasmall Carpcanlaymillionsofeggsperyear.Carpspawn wiped them out too. aquaticinsect. onvegetationinwarm,shallowwaterssuchas A change I noticed [around 1953] concerns what foundinwetlandsandundergopopulation I describe as a tiny microscopic water flea, they explosionsfollowingfloodorhighriverevents. werealwaysevidentinthewaterespecially Can eggs be carried by birds’ feet and survive in whenfurrowirrigating.Watersoakingintothe mud and in the water to be fertilised at any time? earthwouldbeladenwiththesetinyinsects, No, carp eggs only survive out of water for a short hardlynoticeableexceptbytheirabsolutemass time and are usually attached to plants. ofnumbersenablingthemtocongregateonthe Unfertilised eggs soon die. waterinbillionsformingalevellineuptoan Cancarpstayaliveinmud? inchthick.Theyarenotseenlikethisanymore.I No,carpcannotliveinmud. believethattheymusthavebeenfoodforsmall, Docarpundermineriverbanks? newlyhatchedfishandcrustaceans,similarto Carpfeedbysiftingthroughmudbutthereisno tinyseaplanktonoftheoceans.Ihavenotbeen evidencethattheyundermineriverbanks. abletoidentifythisinsect,andcaptureexercises carried out by various different bodies have Docarpspreaddiseasestonativefish? NaturalpopulationsofNotopalaspp.arenow been unsuccessful.12 Alargenumberofparasites,diseasesandviruses thoughttobeextinctintheMurrayͲDarlingBasin, havebeenassociatedwithcarpbuttherehave howeversmallpopulationsaresurvivinginirrigation Lenaccountedthedeclineinnativefishcatchesat beennospecificreportsofdeathsofnativefish pipelines.Source:NSWDPI. thattimetothedisappearanceofthewaterflea. causedbycarpͲbornediseasesinAustralia.10 62 Rod Stone – Drought rivers and flood rivers could, joining their Dad on weekends and Rodwasbornin1955in Overthelongsummerholidaysitwashot during the school holidays. Mildurabutforanumberof anddry.ChristmasDaywasalwaysa yearslivedatnofixed Itusedtobemainlyperch,theoddcodand traditionaldayathometrimmedwithahot addresswithhisfamily.His catfish.Weusedtogetsilverperchinthe roastlunch.ButonBoxingDay,theStone dadwasarabbittrapper,so Murray.Thereusedtobealotofother familycelebratedadifferenttradition. theytravelledupanddown nativefishthatyouusedtoseeswimming Oh,theywerefundays.Christmasnightafter theDarlingandtheGreat around.Atoddtimes,you’dgetalittle tea,we’dstartgettingeverythingorganised, Anabranchmakingaliving gudgeontype.Tinylittlefish.Weusedtocall them ‘minnows’. We wouldn’t know what haveitallpackedup,readytogonext onthefringesofthepastoralindustry.They theywere.Buttheoddtimes,you’dget morning.We’dleaveatdaybreak.Weused livedinashantyontheriver,andRod’s them. totakeallthecoldmeatandthingsleftover childhoodwasrichwiththeexperienceof fromChristmasDay.Andwe’dgoupthe thegreatoutdoors. riversfishingandswimming,playcricketand G gooutinthebushwalkingandjusthaving Oh,IwasprobablyfishingbythetimeIwas udg (Hypseleotris spp., Philypnodoneo spp.) fun.Therewasacoupleofotherfamilies aboutthreeyearsold.Weusedtohavea ns usedtogowithus.Justafundayout,it placeontheriver–they’dcallitashantynow happenedeveryBoxingDay,itwasjusta Isuppose,butitwasprobablyafairlygood ritual. housebackthen.Weusedtohaveallkinds ofanimals;rabbits,goats,kangaroosaspets. Wehadadog,butnocat.Wejustlivedthere up‘tilIwasaboutfiveandahalfandthen wemovedintoPomonasothatwecouldgo to school. Westerncarpgudgeon.Photo:GuntherSchmida. Fishing – part of life x Groupofsmallnativefish,usually8cmorless Fishwerepartofthestapledietofanearly x Bottomormidwaterdwellersthatprefer wetlands,orslowerwaterswithaquaticplants lifelivedontheriverbanks.Andafterthey movedtotown,Rodandhisfamily x Foodincludesmicrocrustacea,aquaticinsects ThenoticeboardatFortCourage,WentworthAngling continuedgoingtotheriverasmuchasthey x Malesguardandfaneggswhiletheydevelop Club’shomebase,iscoveredinphotosofsuccessful fishingtripsandgetͲtogethers.Photo:ScottNichols. 63 Dry, very dry and drought … … then flood ThewesterndistrictofNewSouthWaleshas ButRodhasalsoseenplentyoftheother ahighlyvariableclimate.Yougetdry,very extremethatpeopleofthewestexperience dryanddrought.RodhasseentheDarling –thefloodsthatcantakemonthstotravel RiverandAnabranchinallthesestages– downfromalltheupstreamtributaries.The eachonewithitsownspecialfishing drybedsandcreeksoftheGreatAnabranch conditions. anditsfloodplainchangeddramaticallyonce the water arrived. I’vebeenuptheDarlingwhenit’sonlybeen holes;alittletricklebetweeneachhole.We Someofthecreekswerelikechannelsand usedtouselurescalled‘floppies’backin were probably about eight or ten feet deep, TheDarlingRiverin2007duringtherecentdrought thosedays.You’dcastyourlureoutandletit sotheyweren’tshallow.Therewerefiveor (above),theninflowin2010(below).Photos:WilliamRiley. sink,andyou’dactuallyseefiveorsixfeet sixofthemtogetherinthislittlespotonthe downintothewater‘causetheywereall Anabranch.Oneofthemainonesthatused clear,pools.Youcouldactuallyseethefish torunoffthemainchannelanditwould comeupandstrikethelure.That’sa nearlydoaloop,andthenitwentbackinto fantasticfeelingwhenyouseeabigfish thedelta.Itusedtoroardownthatone.You comeupandgrabthelure. couldn’tstandinitwhenitwasrunningreal hard. It used to knock you over. We used to getafewfishbutitwasgoodforyabbying!
1951 1956 1974 1976
LenHippisleymeticulouslymeasuredandrecordedwaterheightsatBurtundyWeirontheDarlingthreetimesamonthfrom1942Ͳ1982.Thegraphshowsjusthowvariabletheriver heightcanbeandrevealsthatthe1951floodpeakwasalmostashighasthememorable1956and1976floodsandwashigherthanthefloodof1974.Data source: Len Hippisley. 64 ClaytonSharpeisafishecologistwhoworks 19 fortheMurrayͲDarlingFreshwaterResearch Fl 56 CentreinMildura.HegrewupinMildura oods AfterWW2theairrigationt areasaroundMildura FlowintheMurray, d was,andstillis,muchless the anglingandyabbyingintheirrigation rou werecutintosmallerblocks cforo soldiersettlers. variablethanintheDarlinggh whichisdependenton nfl channels, rivers, backwaters and the Great ts… EachpairofblockswassuppliedwithueanBedford thelessreliablerainfallbroughtbyatropical ce Anabranch. He too remembers arrival of nd truckandaTE20Fergusontractor. monsoonalwindsinsummerandautumn.fish In1956,floodwatersthreatenedWentworthfrom floodwaterfromraineventsupstreamand ThelargestfloodintheupperMurraywasin1870 boththeMurrayandtheDarlingsystems.The itseffectsonfishing: andthelargestintheDarlingwas1864.The ‘littlegreyFergies’werebroughtintobuildlevee largestinthelowerMurraywasin1956when They were slow in that it seemed slow, but bankswhilethewaterwasstillfaraway.Afleetof smallerfloodsintheMurrayandDarlingRivers theselightlittletractors,withearthscoopsonthe really,intwodaystheriverwouldchange.It combined.13 would go from a slow river to a really frontandtrailersattherear,successfully Priortoriverregulation,droughtshaveattimes sandbaggedWentworth,whichsitsatthe happening,fastflowingsystemandthenthe reducedbothriverstoaseriesofsalinepools.In confluenceofthetworivers. fullfrontwouldhit,sometimesitseemed,in theDarlingthisstilloccurs,andwasobservedin Localsknewthatthelightredsandthatfilledthe lessthanaweek.Itwasslowintermsofhow therecentdrought. bagswouldnotbeenough.Sotheyfortified faritwasinundatingbutitwasjustroaring. Nativefishhaveadaptedtotheseextremesin leveeswithalayerofredriverclaythatbaked Evenonthefloodplaintherewerecurrent flowandusewaterlevelsandwatertemperature solidinthesun.Leveebanksprotectedthe linesanditwasjustbeautifultosee. risesasbreedingcuesfor‘thegoodtimesahead’. hospital,pumphouses,powerstationandmostof 5 TherecentfloodsintheDarlingandtheGreat themaintown. Mildura,justovertheMurray Anabranchhaveallowedfishtobreedandaccess River,wasnotsolucky,experiencingsomeofthe floodplainhabitatsthatwereunavailableatlow mostdevastatingfloodingin1956. flow.MonitoringoftheGreatAnabranchinlate 2010recorded16433fishfrom11species. Goldenperchandcarpgudgeons,andintroduced carpandEasterngambusia,werethemost common. ‘Youngoftheyear’goldenperch(fishbornthat year)werecaughtpriortotheDarlingflowinginto theAnabranch,indicatingthesefishprobablytook advantageofthefilledLakeCawndillaandbred there.Similarly,themajorityofthebabycarp collectedwasalsothoughttohavecomefromthis lake.Babybonybreamwerethoughttohave Fergiesatworkinthe1956flood,Wentworth. The1956flood–wellandtrulycoveringthe originated from both Lake Cawndilla and the Photosource:WentworthHistoricalSociety. floodplain.Photosource:WentworthHistoricalSociety. lowerDarlingRiver.14 65 Jenny Whyman – Wiimpatja women fishing Jennywasbornin1956 Therewasafewfamiliesandweallgot Theylivedtogether,playedtogether, andfirstlivedinariver togethereveryafternoon,afterschool,and workedtogetherandlearntabouttheriver campontheDarlingat particularlyontheweekend,wealllovedthe andsurroundingcountrysidetogether. Menindee.Herfamily river,andwe’dallgodownandcatchsome Wewereallonebigfamilyandweall livedwithamobofother fish,someyabby,andsomelookunderthe shared.Whenwewentoutandgotthewild Paakintjifamiliesonone leavesintheriver,inthebark,we’dgetthe yabbies out of there. Some make their own food,weallhadabitofthat.Wewereall sideoftheriverand littlelineoutofcotton,andmeat;tiethe reallyclose.Therewasothermembersof regularlyvisitedtheotherside.Thereher meatonthecottonandgettheyabbies.We thefamilyontheothersideoftheriver.My aunty lived with Vince Etrich, a Yugoslav didn’tsitontheriverbank,we’dsitonthe mum’ssisterandherhusband,theyowned man,andtheycouldvisitUncleJackKelly,a logs.Onthebrokenbranchesthatsatoutin abigblock–wejustswamacrosstheriver MutthiMutthiman,andAuntyLouReeks,a theriver.Whenwegotinthewater,we’dall togetourveggiesandfruit. Parappa Parappa woman. justdiveunderneathandwecouldcatchthe Jennywasalsoluckyenoughtoenjoya fishthatwayaswell. specialfishrecipethatherUncleVince Family, river, fish WiththeMenindeeLakesnearby,andthe broughtwithhimfromYugoslavia. Jennyexplainswhytheywereallin riverontheirdoorsteps,Jenny’sfamilies Heusedtocatchthecarpandweusedto Menindee: werenevershortoffishtoeat. catchthecarpforhim.Andpeoplesay Theyworkedatallthestationsalongthe Whenwewerekidsgrowingup,mymainfish ‘Oh,howdoyoueatcarp?’andI’dsay rivers.That’showweallgottogetherthere. wascatfish.Oh,Icouldeatcatfishallday. ‘Well…likethis’.Beforehecookedthecarp AndmymumanddadworkedinMenindee, Butwecan’tgetthecatfishnow.Wealso forus,heusedtosoakitinbigjarswith pickingfruit,likewatermelon,rockmelon, usedtoeatyellowbelly,perchandblack vinegarwithsomeotheringredients.He’d toppingonions,pickingtomatoesandallthat bream.That’sthemainthreefish.Ididn’teat cuttheheadoff,thenhe’dcutitupinall sortofwork,andwhentheworkranout,my cod.ButIatealltheothersortoffishifI littlepiecesandthenhe’dputitinthisbig mumanddaddecidedtomovetoDareton. couldn’tcatchcatfish. jar,andthen,Ithinkheleftthefishin thereforaweek,andwhenit’sallready, Jennyremembershoweveryonewould thenhe’dgetitoutandcookitforus.It congregateontheriverbankinthe wasreallylovely. afternoonsandweekends: 66 All the fish were dead Our river is dry B Inthedroughtyearsfrom1985onwards, lue- BillLeverworriesaboutthelackofflowin the upper Darling declined in flow severely gre the river. While this area always feels the Duringthe1990s,blueͲgreenen algaea bloomedall until,in1991,mostoftheriverfrom alongtheDarlingRiverandtributaries.lgae Therewas effectsofAustraliandroughts,Billbelievesit MunginditoMenindeeturnedbrightgreen. widespreadpopularbeliefthatthebloomwas isthewaterextractionthathasincreasingly ThiswasanextendedblueͲgreenalgae causedbytoxicchemicalsrunningofffrom causedproblemsforfishersoverhis intensiveagricultureupstreamasfaras bloomthatranforonethousandmiles. lifetime: Queensland. Jennyremembers: Thescientificassessment,aftercarefulstudy Therewasnoirrigationgoingonbackinthe foundthattwothingscausedthebloom.Firstly, ‘50sreally.Therewasnoirrigationwater Nofish.IntheriveratPooncarie,allthefish excessivepumpingfromriverswithlowflows.This comingbackin–itwasgoodnaturalwater. weredead.Idon’tknowwhathappened wasmadeworsebylongperiodsofsunnydays. Sometimestheremighthavebeenalittlebit there.Theyfoundthefishfloating.In Combined,thesefactorscreatedastillandwarm ofricegrowing,butnottotheextentthat Menindeethewaterwassogreen,noone water column perfect for blooms of algae. theydonow.Andwhenthosecottonblokes couldgetinit. Secondly,highnutrientlevelsinthewatercaused came,theytookallthewater.Backinthe byfertilizer,nottoxicchemicals,runningofffrom ‘50stherewasnoneofthat,justnaturalriver a range of agricultural enterprises. Animal manure alltheway,practicallynothinggrowingon frompastoralpropertiesandhumansolidwaste theside,therewasnospraying.Justgood fromineffectivelyseweredtownsalongtheriver alsocontributedtohighnutrientlevelsrequired water.Oncetheygotabitoffreshwater foralgalblooms.6However,itremainedeasier, comingin,especiallytheMurray,ifitwent andcertainlymorepopular,toblamethecotton overHumeWeir,offtheygo.That’sthesame industry! ifyoucouldgetgoodwateroutoftheBulloo RiverandcountryaroundTibooburra.The fishjustwentboom–populationexplosion then.Fisheverywhere. AlgalbloomontheGreatAnabranchinAugust2000. Photo:BillandElaineGrace. BlueͲgreenalgaeintheGreatAnabranchin2003. Photo:BillandElaineGrace. 67 InthelasttwoyearsJennyhasjoinedother AboriginalrepresentativesfromtheMurrayͲ Gr DarlingregionontheNorthernBasin eat For the last 10A000n years the Great Anabranch AboriginalNationsCommittee.Shehas a br waswetordrydependinganconseasonalrainfall. travelledtootherpartsoftheBasinand h p Mostlyitwasdry. ipe startedtoseenewthingsabouttheriver. line OvertheyearsAnabranchlandholdersbuilta WhenIwentawayforthefirstNBAN seriesofblockbanks,retainingwaterwhen meetinginMoree,Isawthebigirrigation presentbuthamperingfishpassage.Initially, channels.Isawthecottongrowing,andI thewaterwasgoodforcattle,sheepandfish wasreallyupset.Iwasthinking‘ourriveris thatlivedinthesemiͲpermanentpools. dry’.We’dhadgreenalgaeinMenindee,and TheAnabranchwasalsousedforrecreational fishing,swimmingandpicnicking.Overtimethe wecouldn’tswiminthere.ButwhenIwent IrrigationofftakeTandouCreek.Photo:ScottNichols. upthereandsawthat,itreallyhurtme.And waterbecamesalty. thenIwenttoanotherNBANmeetingupin Fortwentyyears,fishscientistsandwater RomainQueensland;Isawallthecottonin managersnegotiatedwithgraziersforareturn StGeorge,andithitmeagain.Toseethat oftheAnabranchtoamoreephemeralstate. riverdrylikethat,Iwasreallyhurtbecause By2006apipelinewasbuiltfromLake thosepeopleareholdingthatwaterup Cawndillatosupplywatertothesestations,and there.Thatwatershouldbeallowedtoflow by2009allthebuiltstructureswereremoved. During the recent drought water security for anaturalflow.Ithasstoppedusfromgetting livestockandpeoplewholivetherewas ourfish,ourturtles.Istilleatturtle,stilleat guaranteed. fish,witchettygrubs;allmywildfood. Withoutthat,Iwouldn’tlivehere.Fish,to In2010,wateronceagainfloweddownthe AnabranchandmettheMurray,allowingnative me,outoftheriver,isourmainthing. fishtousetheAnabranchandmovefor breeding. PipelinebeinglaidtoBillandElaineGrace’sproperty ontheGreatAnabranch.Photo:BillandElaineGrace. 68 Making connections
Getting their hands dirty theDarlingRiver.Thescientistssaythat November2005,Iwaschosentogooverto 10000yearsagotheDarlingforcedthisnew Ugandaforaworldconventiononprotection WhenthedroughtstrucktheDarlinghardin coursedowntoWentworth.Butstilltome, ofriversandwetlands.Italkedfromthe thelastdecade,JennyWhymanandher theAnabranchishighlyimportant.AndI heart.Ithrewthesheetofpaperaside,and auntiesmadeaspecialefforttokeepgoing don'tthinkyouinterferewithanoriginal letitgofromtheheartandIgotagood totheriver.Jennyreflectsthattheriverwas sourceofariver.EspeciallytheDarling. receptionfromtheaudience.I’mtryingto neverthatdryduringherchildhood–butas Patienceiswhatwerequire.Patience.Anda tellpeople.They’vegottogetofftheir bitofthoughtaboutwhatweareactually bottoms.Getofftheirbuttstohelpthe anadult,thedrywasatimewhenthey doingwiththiswater. rivers. coulddotheirbitfortheriver: Andwhentheriverwasdry,myauntieandI Anger and joy came with the rain usedtogoandwalkintheriverbed.Because whatelsecouldwedo?Couldn’tgofishing. RodStoneisgravelyconcernedaboutthe Andmyauntieusedtosaytome;‘Look, managementofwaterandtheblackwater whatareallthosesticksintheriver?All eventsthatcamewiththerainsin2010.In thosebrokenbottles.Theyshouldbeall Octoberofthatyeartherewerewidely pulledoutwhentheriver’sdryyouknow, publicisedfishkillsattheWakoolRiver.Rod ‘causewhenthewater’sinthere,peoplecan saysthatitwasthethirdineighteen getcut,andstickintopeoplewhentheydive months: inandswimaround.’ TheanglingclubsentalettertotheNew CarmelChapmanworksattheWentworth SouthWalesgovernmentcondemningwhat Information Centre. Born in 1941 and raised ThedryriverbelowWilcannia,inAugust2007.Photo they’vedone,throughourlocalMP,John inMerbein,shehaslivedintheareaallof source:WilliamRiley. Williams.They’veactuallybeenfilling her life. She thinks that we should listen to a wetlandsandforestareasliketheBarmah rangeofknowledgeablepeopleaboutthe Forestforafortnight,andthenleavingthem, rivers: WilliamRileyhasbeenouttalkingto andthendrainingtheblackwaterbackinto everyonewhowilllistenaboutthestateof theMurrayandthat’swhat’scausedthe Aren’t we dumb? We don't even listen to therivers,atlocalforums,liketheNorthern deathofsomanyfish.Inmyopinion,there’s whatAboriginalpeoplesayandit’sintheir BasinAboriginalNationsmeetingsandat beenenoughflow.Theyshouldhavejustlet soul.TheAnabranchistheoriginalcourseof globalforums. itrunthroughnaturally,andasitruns 69 throughnaturally,itwouldhavecleared itself.Therewouldhavebeenmorefresh Bla wateranditwouldn’thavedepletedallthe ckw x Blackwatereventsoccurnaturallyate oxygen,itwouldn’thavebecomeasblackas r They occur when there has been a build up of leaf litter itdid. x andwoodydebrisonthefloodplain,followedbyenough In2010,heavyrainsinthenorthern raintosubmergethismaterialandhighenough catchmentsfloweddowntheriver,fillingthe temperaturesthatitbeginstorot.Thewaterbecomes discoloured and usually oxygen levels drop significantly lagoons,lakesandcreeksalongtheway.For thefirsttimeinadecadetheGreat x Blackwatereventscanharmaquaticanimalssuchasfish. Some animals, such as crayfish, have been seen escaping Anabranch of the Darling River flowed down thewaterduringsuchevents tomeettheMurray.JennyWhyman x TherecanbelongͲtermbenefits.Carbonfromthe describestheeuphoriathatcamewiththe decomposingorganicmatterentersthefoodchain, water: increasingthepopulationofaquaticinvertebrateswhich AdryLakeMenindeein2007.Photo:WilliamRiley. thenprovidefoodforfish WeweregoingtoBrokenHillforameeting. AndIsaidtomyhusband‘Ihopethere’s x Theimpactofaneventcansometimesbereducedby waterinthisAnabranch’.Wewentoverthe waterreleasestodiluteflow.However,thisisnotalways possible and can actually cause the blackwater to spread bridge,andallofasudden,Iwasgoingmad, downstreamwiththepulseofdeoxygenatedwater andIsaid‘C’mon,stop,stop,stop!’Sowe madeourowntrackdowntothewaterandI justtookmyjumperoff,tookmyshoesoff, rolledmytrouserlegsupandIwasinthere. Ohhhh,Iwasinthere.Anditwasreallylucky. Ithadjuststartedcomingdown.Musthave beenthesecondorthirdday.AndIwentin andIwasgettingalltheleaves,Iwas chuckingthemallout,toseeifIcouldsee anyyabbiesorshrimps.Yeah,Iwentmad whenIsawit‘causeitwasdryforalong, TheflowsdowntheGreatAnabranchin2010saw longtime. blackwaterproducedasleaflitterandotherplantmatter AwetLakeMenindeein2010.Photo:ScottNichols. begantorot.Noteveryblackwatereventcausesafishkill andin2010nomajorfishkillwasrecordedinthe Anabranch.Photo:ScottNichols. 70 Visions for the Darling and the Great Anabranch
Thefishingpeoplewhocontributedtothis CommercialfisherBillLeverthinksthatthe Myfatherandgrandfatherusedtofishalot projecthavealltalkedabouttheirhopesfor futureoftheriverrevolvesaroundwater inLakeVictoriaandtheywouldcatchalotof thefutureoftheriver.Manyfelttheyhad quality.Herememberswhatitwaslikein introducedredfin.Bymygeneration,they were gone. Before my time there were heaps seensomeimprovementsbutmostdon't thepast–especiallyforyabbying–and ofcatfish,apparently.Myunclesandmy feeltheriverisashealthyyetastheywould wouldliketobehopefulaboutaneweraof fathertalkaboutthembeinginpest like to see it. Each of these fishers suggested clean water: proportions.Theyusedtogetannoyedwith ways to help the river and in turn help Queen’sBirthdayweekendSouthAustralians howmanytheywouldcatch.Ican’tactually providehealthyhabitatsforfish. usedtocomeupinthethousands,craying. everrememberanglingone.It’shardto Asthepresidentofthelocalfishingclubat Thisisgoingbackinthe‘50swhentherewas believethatinonegenerationitcanchange. good water. Now, the water’s changed and FortCourage,RodStoneiskeentosupport we haven’t got the quality of water that we waystobringbackthefish.ALowerMurray hadbackinthe‘50s.Sothateffect’sevident DarlingCMAledinitiativetoremovewillows inthenumbersoffishandcrays.Ifwecould from the waterways in his area has caught getgoodwatertheywillbreedupagain.But hisattention. Idon’tthinkthatwe’llevergetgoodwater Apparently,they’resupposedtobecoming againnow.That’sthefinishofitIthink.Then todothatoverthenextfiveyearssothere’ll againiftheysendmorewaterdown,buy benowillowtreesleftintheriverhere.Itwill threeͲpartsofthewaterbackoffthe takeawaysomefishinghabitatbutwillows irrigators,wemightdosomegood. canbeveryinvasive.I’veseenpicturesof ClaytonSharpeisawarethattherehave them in streams further east of here where beenmanychangesintheriveroverhis theylooklikethey’veactuallycloggedthe father’slifetimeandoverhis.Herecognises wholeriverup.Theyjustabouttouchedon ClaytonSharpe(picturedwithhisson,Tully)hopes that what one generation sees as normal eitherside.Actually,Wentworthusedtobea thatbycaringfortheriveranditshabitats,nativefish bitlikethat.Fishwillstillbearoundsnags mightnotbethewayitalwayswas.Helping willstillbearoundforhiskidstosee. Photo source: Clayton Sharpe. elsewherebuttheywon’tbearoundthe theriverbycaringforfishhabitatandriver willowtrees. environmentsmightbeachangethatwill bringmorefishforfuturefishers. 71 JennyWhymanhopesthatitwillcomeback tothebasicsforthefutureoftheDarling Men River. inde TheMenindeeLakesStoragee LaSchemeincludesLakes Wetherell,Pamamaroo,Menindeekes andCawndilla. That’showIgrewupinMenindeeonthe sche river.And,today,Istillgobacktothatsame EarlynewspaperreportsindicatetheDarlingmeRiver only spotovertheriver.Wecan’tlivewithout flowed9outofevery12months,andtheGreat thatriverandtheNgukuintheriver.And Anabranchwas‘dryinthemiddleforeightyearsoutof ten’.a,b ‘Nguku’meanswaterinthePaakintji language. Despitethis,itwashopefulthattheAnabranchand LowerDarlingcouldprovidewaterforBrokenHilland largescalelocalirrigationdevelopment.By1914the Sta GreatAnabranchwasloweredatitsupstreamjunction te withtheDarlingforasecondtimetofacilitateearlier TheSustainableofRivers Audit(SRA)isanongoing 15,c rive flowsandimproveconditionsforsettlers. systematicassessmentofr:river ‘mhealthof23major rivervalleysintheMurrayͲDarlingodBasin.era VariableflowsintheDarlingandtheneedtofinda Environmentalindicators(themes)includete ‘ securewatersupplyforBrokenHillsawperiodiccalls hydrology,fishandmacroinvertebrates,whichare fora‘waterscheme’tobedevelopedsothatthe b,d monitoredandwillhighlighttrendsovertime.7 DarlingRivercouldbeturnedintoa‘veritableNile’. TheMenindeeLakeswerelookedtoforwaterstorage, TheDarlingValleywassurveyedin2005.The althoughtherisksassociatedwithhighevaporative DarlingValleyfishcommunityandEcosystem d,b lossesanderraticDarlinginflowscausedconcern. Healthinthe‘LowerZone’wereconsideredto beinpoorcondition.Alittlefewerthanhalf Debatecontinuedforover40yearsuntilworksfinally the native species predicted for this zone were beganin1949,withanestimatedconstructiontimeof e collectedduringsurveying(47%)and 6Ͳ7yearsandcostof£2300000. introducedfishcomprisedalittleoverhalfthe Althoughprojectconstructiontook11years,with biomass(53%). MenindeeMainWeircommissionedin1960,these worksprovidewatersecurityforBrokenHillandat Bonyherring,Australiansmelt,goldenperch, timesofhighflowcandeliverwaterdownthe MurrayͲDarlingrainbowfishwerenumerous, GreatAnabranchandontothelowerMurray. withcarpgudgeonandspangledperchalso common.Oftheintroducedspecies,Eastern Newspapers. a. Barrier Miner (Broken Hill) Monday 11 April 1910, p6 gambusia,andcarpweremostcommon. b.TheSydneyMorningHerald(NSW),Thursday16February1933,p8 EmutracksinthegreyclayssurroundingLake Goldfishwerealsocaptured. c.TheArgus(Melbourne),Thursday20August1914,p5 Menindee.Photo:ScottNichols. d.BarrierMiner(BrokenHill),Friday24February1928,p2 e.TheSydneyMorningHerald(NSW),Saturday2December1950,p11 72
7373
Source:CorowaFishingClub. Source:AboriginalandTorresStraitIslander Source:ColinGreen: PictorialArchive,N3766.34:HenryAtkinson, ColinGreenandgrandson,Blake. aYortaYortamaninthe1890s. Source:ScottNichols. 74
GavinValeisathirdgeneration farmerandfisher.Gavinlearntto fishinthemanyirrigation channelsthatrunthroughthe MurrayRiverfloodplainsPicola. Photo:JodiFrawley. Likehisfatherandgrandfather, DennisLeanisahairdresserin Yarrawonga.Denniswasfishing beforehewasgoingtoschool andcontinueshishobbytoday– evensellingfishinggearinhis hairdressingshop!Photo:Jodi Frawley. WallyCooperlivedonYeilima StationontheMurrayRiver. Fromthetimehewasthree,he andhisgrandfatherlived betweentraditionalMoitheriban cultureandmodernlifestyle. Photo:JodiFrawley. MargCragoandherbrothers Colin,DavidandHaydenGreen arefourofthefiveGreensiblings whogrewupswimmingand fishinginthelagoonthat borderedthefamilyhome.Marg, ColinandDavidphotos:JodiFrawley. Haydenphotosource:ColinGreen. 75
Theloveliestpicnicplacesaboundedalongthebanksoftheriver,withsand bars,andshadedgullies,redͲgumandwattletrees,anddeepquiet poolsenjoyedbytheanglers.…FishaboundedsuchasMurray cod,yellowbellies,catfish,redfin,whichwasintroduced,mussels
andMurraycray….Thewaterwascleaninthosedays. A.N.Loughnan(ed).HarnessedWatersͲaRiverDammed(Yarrawonga,Vic:TheYarrawongaShireCouncil,1989),p13 76 Introducing the river and its people
TheMurrayRiveristheboundarybetween The arrival of the Europeans NSWandVictoria.Theriverbothdefines HamiltonHumeandWilliamHovellcrossed boundariesandunitesthemwiththewaters theMurrayupstreamofAlburyin1824and thatsustaintownships,irrigationandthe declareditbenamedtheHumeRiver.There floodplainforests,includingthe70000haof theysawAboriginalpeoplesettingfishtraps theiconicBarmahandMillewaForest. madefromsticksandwattleboughsand Theriveranditsfloodplainarethetraditional noted: landsoftheYortaYortaandBangerang Theriveraboundswiththatspeciesofcod people.TheMurrayisaverydifferentriver fishwhichiscommoninallthewesternrivers. totheonetheYortaYortaandBangerang Inthelagoonstheycaughtakindofbreamor peoplesonceknewandfished. carp,oftheweightofabouttwopounds,and ofthefinestpossibleflavour.…Fishcaughtin Baiame beginnings theriver,seemtoformtheprincipalpartof their food.2 Commercial fishers, such as David Rolton pictured in DrWayneAtkinson,aYortaYortaman,tells The abundant water and regular flow from about1957(above),pliedtheirtradetolocaltowns, thecreationstoryoftheGoulburnand thespringsnowmeltmadethisareaprized andsentstocktomarketbyriverandrail. MurrayRivers: Photo:NLAͲNLA.PICͲVN4189240. bybothsheepandcattlegraziers. Baiamecreatedtheriverbysendinghis womandownfromthehighcountrywithher The1850sgoldrushstartedtheriverͲboat Nineteenthcenturydreamsofcontrollingthe yamsticktojourneyacrosstheflatand tradethatconnectedtheUpperMurrayto unpredictable river flows led to the major waterlessplain.Baiamethensenthisgiant Adelaide. snake along to watch over her. She walked engineeringplansoftheMurrayWater Fruitgrowing,dairying,wheatandfodder formanywearymiles,drawingatrackinthe Agreement:26weirsandlocksbetween croppingjoinedthecontinuedsheepand sandwithherstick,andbehindhercamethe EchucaandBlanchetown,andachannel cattle grazing in the area. New industries giantsnakefollowinginandoutandall systemtodeliverwaterforirrigation.Bythe about,makingthecurvesoftheriverbed broughtnewpeopletothearea.Aboriginal endofthe1940s,YarrawongaWeir,Weir15 withhisbody.ThenBaiamespokeinavoice andAnglopeoplewerejoinedbyChinese, atEustonandWeir26atTorrumbarryhad ofthunder,fromuphigh.Lighteningflashed Italianand,morerecently,peoplefrom beenbuilt. andrainfell,andwatercameflowingdown AfricaandAsia. thetrackmadebythewomanandthesnake.1
77 ElevenweirsonthelowerMurraywerealso finished,butplansfor13otherweirsfromthe RiverMurrayAgreementwereabandoned. Today,flowsintheriverarecontrolledby HumeDam–thefirstof15structuresonthe mainchannel.BythetimeitreachesCorowa, theMurrayhaschangedfromasmallclear streamtoafastflowingriver,itswaterstea Yarrawongaweir,viewedfromthedownstreamside, brown. Near Yarrawonga the Murray enters createsLakeMulwala.Photo:ScottNichols. LakeMulwala,wheretheskeletonsofold drownedredgumsareastarkmemorialto thewaytheriverhaschanged. Asindustrieschanged,sodifferentnutrients andwastesendedupintheriver,changing thewaterqualityforthefish. Fishingforrecreationandforfoodhasbeen aconstantthroughoutthesechanges.In LakeMulwala’sdrownedredgumforest.Photo:Scott recenttimes,fishingͲbasedtourismhas Nichols. developedandbroughtbigsummerinfluxes ofpeopletothearea.
JuvenileredgumslinealagoonontheMurray. Photosource:ColinGreen. LakeMulwalausedtobedrainedforweir maintenance.Thesnagsandwoodydebris,soloved byMurraycod,areclearlyvisible.Photo:DennisLean.
78 Gavin Vale – A poacher’s paradise
Gavinisthefifth andthenlotsofwaterlate,andtheriverand generationofhis forestwasflooded‘tilChristmas.Thefishing father’sfamilytolive wasphenomenal.Hecaughtfivefishonone rightneartheBarmah Bardigrubanditwasjusttheskinofthe Forest,wheretheywere grubleftbythetimehe’dfinished.Theyused originallytimber touserubberbands,justtoholdthegrubs on the hooks. The cod just went berserk and workers.Forthree backthosedays,theytookeveryfish. generationstheyhave runasheepfarmat Picola.
Folklore and Fishing Gavinlearnttoenjoyfishthroughthesimple pleasures and personal folklore of his childhoodhome. Afrozenbardigrub–afavouredbaitforcatching cod.Theonepicturedisabout6cmlong.Thesegrubs Fish was a part of our staple diet. My mother arethelarvaeofvarioustypesofmothorbeetle. alwayscaughtafishforourteaonFriday Whileoriginallyreferringtolonghornbeetle River red gum forests are adapted to cycles of flood nights.Wealwayshadfishandchipsand (Bardistuscibarius)larvae,fishersalongtheMurray and dry. These trees in the Barmah Forest benefit thatwasgreat.Ifshecouldn'tgetfish,she’d Rivermoreoftenapplythetermtothelarvaeof from environmental water allocations. Photo source: alwayshaveathingshecalledmockfishthat TrictenaandAbantiadesmoths.Thesegrubslive MDBA. wasmadewithpotato.Inthewholeofmy about60cmbelowgroundandfeedontherootsof 7 riverredgumsandblackwattles. Photo:ScottNichols. growing,wenever,everwentwithoutfish. Around1850,JosephWaldoRice,oneofthefirst settlersintheBarmaharea,usedtofishonthe Gavinwasbornin1957,theyearafterthe Gavinalsoknowsthecommunityfolkloreof MoiraLakeswiththeAboriginalpeople. largestMurray–Darlingfloodsinliving much earlier days – of a history of taking Together they used their fish traps. I don’t know memory.Gavinrecapsthefamilyfolklore hugenumbersoffishthatreliedonthe whethertheycaughtyellowbellyorMurraycod. aboutfishingandthisflood. crossͲculturalrelationshipsbetween TheAboriginalpeopleusedtohelphimandthey Myfathertellsmethatin1956,andthatwas AboriginalandnonͲAboriginalfishers. loadedthemindrays.Andthentheydrovethem ayearbeforeIwasborn,itwasawetwinter toBendigototheminers.17
79 Fishing the channels Spoiltforchoiceashegrewup,Gavin continuedtofishinthechannels,butcould Gavinhimselflearnttofishinthemany Fis alsoventureintootherspotsthatwereall h in irrigationchannelsthatrunthroughtheplains One of the major impactsirr of the irrigation industry has closeby. igat i aroundtheMurrayRiveratPicola. beenthealterationtothevolume,on timingc and Theonlyreasonweeverfishedintheriverorthe fluctuationsofwaterflow.Thedirectionhanofmanynative Allmyearlyfishingwasdoneinthechannels ne creekscloseintheforestareawasforMurray fishmovementsisdrivenbyflowvolume.Manylsfish that ran through our property which were prolific cod.Itwasaprizetocatchacodandthatwas moveupstreamtobreedinresponsetoanincreasein with redfin. When I got home from school I’d go youraim,tocatchabigcod.Spentalotoftime flow.Butit’snotjustchangestovolumethatimpacton down and go fishing. I would have been probably trying,andnotmuchtimesucceeding,Is’pose. fish.Amassiveamountofwaterisdivertedeachyear eight or ten. I have caught brown trout and Butthereisacertainamountoffuninthat. fromriversintoirrigationchannels.Asubstantial yellowbellyoutofthechannelsystembutinmy numberoffishgowithitandarelostintoirrigation channels,fromwhichtheyareunlikelytoescape. time,themainfishwecaughtwereredfin. Poachers in tinnies Itisthoughtthatmostfishdiefairlysoonafterentering Gavinbelievesthatthecomingofthe thechannelsystem.Theygetkilledorinjuredmoving aluminiumpuntͲtheflatbottomedtinnieͲ throughthevariousregulatingstructures(weirs, sawabigchangeinthenumberoffisherson turbines,pumps)orfindthemselvesstrandedbythe system drawdown at the end of the irrigation season, theriver,andthenumberoffishthatcould whennowaterisdivertedintotheirrigationsystem. betakenout. Otherimpactsincludebarrierstofishmovement, Thatwasthepoachers'paradise.Because enhanceddispersalofexoticspeciesandthelossof native fish eggs and larvae through direct pumping. youcouldsneakinovermudbanksand thingslikethat.Youcouldpullrightintothe NativefishfoundintheMurrayirrigationchannels bank,youcouldgetoutofiteasy,itwas includedfivethreatenedspecies:Murraycod,Murray– comfortable,youdidn’tneedabigmotor.It Darlingrainbowfish,unspeckedhardyhead,goldenperch gotacrossthewater. andsilverperch.Murraycodareprobablywashedinto thechannelssystemwhenveryyoungandfewsurvive beyondthejuvenilephaseoncetheyarethere.Golden Anirrigationdrain.Photosource:fromArthurRylahInstitute perchenterthechannelslaterintheirlifehistory. technicalreport#176. Driftingeggsandlarvaeappeartobecomingfromthe riverandnotfromsuccessfulspawningwithinthe channelsystem.Thismeansthereisalsosignificantloss ofeggsandlarvaefromtheriverintothechannel system,whichmeansthenumberofjuvenilefishinthe riveritselfalsodeclines.15
80 Fishing’s the trophy Gavinandhisfamilyhaveseenpeopleonthe riverexploitthiswayofkeepingfish. Gavinoftenfishedintheriverwhilecamping withhisunclesandhiscousin,David.They Isawalotofpeopleabusethefactthatthey taughttheboyshowtotetherfishtokeep couldtetherthefishandtakebigamountsof fish out of the river, and I never really thought themfreshuntiltheywenthome. thatwasgood.Oncetheygooversixty You’dtiethefishupjustlikeyou’dtieupa centimetresthey’renotallthatnicetoeatso dog.We’dput‘emonamuddybankwhere whykeepthem,whykillthemandwhyhave weknewtherewasnosnags.Youtether themstuffed.Youknow?Thetrophyiswhatyou themthroughthetwosoftbitsofskinon feelinyourheart,notwhatyouhavehangin’on eithersideofthenoseandyoucanhook thewall. quiteeasily,justmakeasmallholethrough Downstream of the Mulwala Irrigation Canal inlet there.Myunclealwayshadabagneedle regulator.Nativefishlarvae(pictured)aremostly whichhe’dthreadthrough.I’vetetheredfish killedwhentheygothroughthistypeofstructure. uptothirtypound. Photo:JodiFrawley.Larvaphoto:LeeBaumgartner.
UpstreamoftheMulwalaIrrigationCanalinlet regulator.Suchconditionsfavourbothpredators, suchaspelicans,andalienfish,suchascarp.Photo:Jodi Frawley.Pelicanphoto:ScottNichols. Theplaquecommemoratingthe‘turningofthesod’ fortheMulwalaCanalin1935.ThethenNSW Premier, the Hon. B.S.B. Stevens, MLA, did the honours‘inthepresenceofalargeand TetheredMurraycodinthe1940s.Photo:FredBailey representativegatheringofcitizens’.Photo:JodiFrawley. (NSWDPIcollection).
81 Dennis Lean – Barbers, bait and bobbing In1911,Dennis’ DennisandhisfamilylivedontheLakeuntil grandfatheropeneda hewaseleven.Helearnttofishwithhis R edfin barber’sshopinthe siblingsandfamily. (Percafluviatilis ͲFEnglishA perch) main street of Qs IwasprobablyfishingbeforeIwentto Yarrawonga.Likehis school.Myfather,hewasalwaysamadkeen fatherand fisherman,mygrandfatherhewasthesame. grandfather,68yearͲ Itwentback,rightbackthroughthewhole oldDennisisa family.Andmyunclehewasakeen hairdresser. fisherman.We’vebeenintotheshootingand Areredfinnative? fishingallourlives.WhenIwasakid,we No,theyareanativeofEuropeandAsiaandwere Fishing & haircuts are in the family usedtotiespringersoffthewillowtreesin introducedtoAustraliainthe1860s.Theyarenow thebackyardtocatchredfin.Andyou’dget widespreadthroughouttemperateregionsofMurrayͲ Whenhetookovertheshop27yearsago, upinthemorninggoswimaroundtogetthe DarlingBasin. hegothischancetoindulgehishobbyand fish.Itwasabeautifullifestyle. Whywereredfinintroduced? expandedtheshoptoincludefishinggear. Redfin are a sport fish popular with recreational anglers. Redfinwasthefamily’sfavouriteeatingfish Thereheswappedfishingstoriesforhair NonͲnativefishwerethoughttobebettersportandbetter whenhewasgrowingup. cutswithhisclients. eatingthannativespecies. But,youknow,wehadnomoney,we Whatsortofhabitatdoredfinprefer? Yarrawonga, on the Victorian side of Lake struggled,andthatsortofthingall Redfininhabitavarietyofhabitats,butpreferslowflowing Mulwala,isagreatplacefortourists, contributedtothekitchen.Wehadawire orstillhabitats,particularlythosewherethereisaquatic especiallyiftheyareinterestedinfishing. cageonthatjetty.Theneverytimewe vegetation. Dennissays: caughtredfinwethrewthemintheresowe Areredfinaproblem? had a supply of fish. And if Mum wanted fish Yes.Redfineatnativefishandcompeteforfoodandspace. WegetpeoplefromnearlyalloverAustralia for tea we’d go down and get a few. We had Redfinarealsoahostoftheepizootichaematopoietic tofish.It’savery,verypopulararea.Weget ducks, chooks, ferrets, lambs you name it, necrosisvirus(EHNV),whichmanynativefishspeciesare themfromHerveyBay,Forbes,Canberra, Ͳ in the back garden. It was a menagerie at susceptibleto. Harden,Geelong.AlotofSydneypeople Whatarethecontroloptions? come down here. It’s a very popular area for times. InNSWwaters,includingtheMurrayRiver,redfinarenowa Murraycod,that’swhattheymainlycome Nowit’sillegaltoputaliveredfinbackinto Class1noxiousfish.Thismeansitisillegaltokeepthem for. thewater. aliveorusethemasbait. Don’ttransferthembetweenwaterways,stockthemin damsorreturnredfintothewateralive.
82 The coming of the Lake Tent Rive citie TheYarrawongaWeirwasfinishedin1939, r boa Yarrawongaweir,Mulwalas a channeland creatingLakeMulwala.In1989,87ͲyearͲold Inthe1840s,localsdreamedoftthes riverasa Yarrawongachannelwerendbuilt between1934and transportroute.Adecadelater,wealthfromthe relie JimPidgonrecalledthewaterwaysbefore 1939.Hundredsofmenandsometimesf wtheiro goldrushbroughtshallowͲdraftsteamboatsthat familiescametoworkontheseprojects,causingrk a theweir: movedproduce,includingfish,toEchuca.There temporarypopulationexplosion.Somemenwere Thecommonwasbeautifulwithitslagoons theyconnectedwiththerailthattookgoodsto sent from Melbourne under Unemployment Relief market in Melbourne. By the time the locks and andmarshesandwildlife.Therewerealways Schemesimplementedduringthedepression. weirswerebuiltinthe1930s,railandlaterroad lotsofboatsontheriverandveryfewmotorͲ Theycameandwentin10weekblocks.Others transporthadreplacedrivertrade. boats, and the children of my generation stayedforthedurationandmanymadethe ThepostͲwarerasawtheriseoftourismacross districttheirpermanenthomes. werenotgluedtothetelevisionwithitsvideo fantasies.Wehadtherealworldoftheriver theMurray.Echucawaspopularforitshistoryas Some housing was provided, but many came to an inland port, where tourist could enjoy the river onourdoorstep.Wefishedandswamand livealongtheriverintentcities.Waterwascarted fromtherestoredriverboats. huntedinitslagoons.5 inbuckets,andtimberwascutfromlocalforests Desnaggingtoclearchannelsforthisnew forroughbuildingandfirewood.Butchersand Aftertheweirwasbuilt,theauthorities generationofriverboatsandotherrivercraft bakersvisited‘TheGrove’,butfamiliesalsofished droppedthewaterlevelsformaintenance continueduntilthelatetwentiethcentury. to supplement their diets. Health inspectors every four years. Not only was it an artificial visitedthecamps,nominallycheckingon sanitationandreportedonunlicenseddogs.A lake,italsocreatedtheconditionsofan warning‘cooͲee’alongtheriversentgigglingkids artificialdrought. scurryingwiththeirpetsintothesafetyofthe forest.5 Dennisremembershowthischangedthe habitatforthesmallcreaturesoftheriver, whichinturnchangedthefishing.Thecycle wasrepeatedjustastheriverwas recoveringfromthelastone.Dennissays: Tomywayofthinking,itcomesbacktothe shrimppopulationinthewater,firstyear aftertheydrainedthewateritisveryhard. Lowriverlevelseffectivelygroundedtheriver We’d drop four or five nets and you might boats,slowingorevenhaltingtransportofpeople Buildingthecanalswashardworkbutprovided gethalfadozenshrimp.Andyou’dheadto andgoodsupanddowntherivers.Photosource: welcomeemploymentduringtheDepression.Photo thedeepwatertogetthem.Becauseinthe WentworthHistoricalSociety. source:http://www.irrigationhistory.net.au/.
83 shallowwatershrimphavealldiedbecause thewater’sgone.Theyliveinthewillow Rem rootsandrocksandallthatsortofthing.And ovi In the past barges removedng snags with steam driven thesecondyearthey’llstarttopickup,third the Ͳ winchestoclearpassagesforlarger snboats.The yearthey’llbegoingprettywell.Fourthyear ag waterthenmovedalongthechannelfaster,s you could catch them anywhere. When the scouringtheriverbedasitwent.Snagswerealso shrimparethick,youcangoandstandon removedfromtheriversasitwasthoughtthey theboatrampandthey’llbiteyourlegs. causederosionofriverbanksandincreasedthe They’llhaveagoatyou.Weusedtocatch incidenceoffloodingbyreducingthecapacityof thembyhand. waterthattheriverchannelcouldhold.11 Inmanycasesthepresenceofanaturalloadof Canoes made of bark were commonly used by Canoes, catfish and carp snags may reduce erosion by protecting the river AboriginalpeopleontheMurrayRiverwellintothe banks.Similarly,thenotionthatsnagsincreased Dennisandhismatesalsomadetheirown nineteenthcentury.Photosource:StateLibraryofSouth Australia,SLSA:PRG422/3/802–MoiraNativeBarkCanoes. floodingisnowknowntobelargelyincorrect. tincanoes.Thentheywouldroamaroundin Almost 25 000 snags removed from the Murray theLakeandriverandexplorethedifferent Dennishasseenbigchangestothecatfish populationsincethearrivalofthecarp. RiverbetweenHumeDamandYarrawonga fishindifferentareas. (headwatersofLakeMulwala)from1976and1986Ͳ When the carp came that put pay to the 12 Weallhadacanoeeach.Weusedtogoover adistanceofonly200km. catfish.Whenthecarpfirsthithere,thekids tothelagoonnearthegolfclubbecausethat Theremovalofsnags(‘largewoodydebris’)isaKey were down near the weir and we were wasbeautifulcatfishcountryandyou’dgeta ThreateningProcessundertheNSWFisheries shovelling them out with pitchforks that’s lotofcatfish.Weusedtogetlongboards,tie ManagementAct1994andtheVictorianFloraand how thick they were. It was like a blanket. threeorfourdropperstothem,aboutthree FaunaGuaranteeAct1988. Balls Lagoon over there at the golf club was footlong,takethemoutandthengobackin probably the last real habitat of catfish. We themorningandfindthem.Iwentoverthere used to be able to go up to the billabongs, at onemorning,andthisboardbobbingalong. Colombo and Yanco. They all had good Oh,I’llgetthat.SoIdivedinandswamout, supply of catfish, they still do to a degree. grabbedtheboard.Thecatfishspunaround Barrenbox Swamp was probably the home of andspikedmeinthestomach.AndIthought, catfish, brilliant up there. But the carp came thisisgoingtohurt.SoIlefttheboardand and they competed for the same food and headedfortheshore.Itdidhurttoo–it thatwastheendofthecatfish.Theoldcarp, burned.It’ssortofapoison,Imean,they’ll she does some damage. biteyouup! Anaturalsnagloadisagoodthingforariver...andits fish.Photo:ColinGreen. 84 Wally Cooper - Moitheriban traditions for a modern Murray
WallyCooperwasbornin Iusedtowatchmygrandfather.Thesnag 1947andlivedonYeilima wouldbecomin’outoftheriverandthe StationontheMurray currentwouldbedroppinginthewater River–aplaceforspelling slowly.He’dgetinupstreamandhe’djust broodstockfrom floatdownalonglikealog,comingdown FlemingtonRacecourse. towardthefishandashecametowardsthe yellowbellyorthecod,he’drunhisfingers Fromthetimehewas underthefish.Andyoucanseethefish, three,heandhis they’llfeelthetickling.Grandfatherwould grandfatherlivedbetween movehishandtowardsthegillsandthegills traditionalMoitheribancultureandmodern justopenup.He’dgetuprealcloseandgo lifestyle.Onthestationtheyhelpedlook bangwiththetwofingersandhe’dhavea aftertheBarmahMuster,butintheforest fish.That’sit.Nofishin’line. Wally’sgrandfathertaughthimaboutthe Danny,ColinGreen’sson,doeshisown riverfromYarrawongadowntoEchuca. versionof‘fishtickling’whentheflowsare lowandthecarpnumbersarehighinthe Tickling fish lagoonclosetotheGreenfamilyhouse.The WallyrememberstheMurrayofthe1950s: followingseriesofphotographsshow. IcanrememberwhenIwasabouteight yearsold,theriverwassoclean.Itwasa massive,beautiful,cleanriver.Youcouldsee throughthewaterandyoucouldseebetter inthedeeppartthanyoucantoday.Andyou couldprobablyseefifteenfeetinfrontofyou whenyouweredivingdown. Thisclearwaterwasperfectfordivingand Carphunting,November2009.Afterfindingaspot with lots of carp (above), Danny Green gently moves Wally’sgrandfathertaughthimonetraditional intotickleacarp,andhoistsitoutofthewater.Photo waytocatchfish–byticklingthem! source: Colin Green. 85 Aswellaslearningthetraditionalartoffish OneoftheriveranimalsthatWallydoesn’t tickling,Wallyalsofishedoutofboatsand seeanymoreareaspecialtypeofmussel. off banks, with hooks and lines, along with Irememberthereusedtobeabeautiful therestofhiscommunity.Findingtheright whitemussel.Fromtwoinchesdownto baitmeantlearningtoreadthelocalfeeding aboutthesizeofyourthumbnail.Theywere habitsofthefishtheywerechasing. inabundanceallalongtheriver.You’dfind them round the lake system and also along Whatwe’ddoischeckthefishtoseewhat some hard banks into the sandy loam areas. theywereeatingandthenwe’dgetthebait We used to dive for ‘em and pick ‘em up and accordingtowhatwefound.Becausethat’s take ‘em home and eat ‘em. Absolutely whatthefishwouldbeeatingforthenext Allowidgee,picturedfishingusingabarkcanoeand month or so. The seasons and the weather wonderful. reedspearinawaycommontoYortaYortamen.He determineifit’sshrimporwormsormature isshownhereatMalogaontheMurrayRiver.Photo Impacts on the river larvaeofinsects. source:StateLibraryofSouthAustralia,SLSA:PRG422/3/704. OverWally’slifetimeindustryand Special river creatures agriculturehavehadimpactsontheriver. Notalltheanimalsintheriverareawere TheGreenfamilyrememberthedevastating availabletoeveryoneinthecommunity. impactofsprayingthetobacco.ColinGreen Wallyremembersthatwaterratswere remembers: valuedfortheirmeatandtheirskins. WhenIwasinprimaryschoolIusedtostand However,onlytheelderscouldeatthe outinfrontofthehousewhentheyaerial meat,andtheskinsweremadeintopouches sprayedthepaddocknextdoorandwonder thatcouldonlybecarriedbycertainpeople. whatthecoolmistwas–itwasDDT.Butit feltnice. Troutcod,nowaprotectedspecies,were David Green thinks that the sprays affected anotherspecialanimaltotheMoiraForest Terrestrialinsects,suchasmayflies(pictured),arean people,andtheywererestrictedfor thefish: importantpartofnativefishdiet.It’snotjustbardi everyone. We never ever found a fish before that with a grubsthatwillattracttheattentionofahungry spinaldeformity.Behindthedorsalfinthere Murraycod–aflymadetomimicamayflyfalleninto Evenwhenwecaughtthesmalltroutcod, wasspinalcurvature. thewaterisalsoirresistibleatcertaintimesofyear. grandfatherwouldsay,‘Don’teathim,put Photo:LukePearce. himback.’Becausethetroutcodwasn’tin abundanceliketheMurraycod. 86 Butlikeallfamilies,noteveryoneagrees. Tr David’sbrotherColinthinksthatashag C out shaking,thendroppingthefishcouldjustas um (Maccullochellamacquariensis codͲbluenosedcod, mer blue cod) easilybeblamed. agu Aboriginalpeoplehadlivedonnandjafishedthe Wally’sworriedalsoaboutthechemicals MurrayRiverforcenturiesbeforeamissionary harmingthefishhabitataswellastherestof establishedaschoolatMalogainthe1870s, which was later moved to the government the environment along the river. A poisoned settlementatnearbyCummeragunja. rivermeanslessfishforallfishers. By 1887, William Cooper, Wally Cooper's great Intheolddays,theyreallykilledtheland uncle,wasamongmanyAboriginalresidents withallthosechemicals,likeDDTand whopetitionedtosecurelandselectionsthere Dieldrin. We had to stop it. You’ve got to togrowwheat. knowhowtoputondifferentpoisonsthat you’rerunningthroughourriver.Withthe In1934,frustratedbygovernmentpolicies Photo:GuntherSchmida. ecosystem,everythingissomagnificentand whichhadunderminedfarming,WilliamCooper x Largedeepbodiedfish,growingto85cmand everythinggoesinthecycle.Andyoutake appealedtotheNSWPremierforYortaYorta 16kg,butmoremostlylessthan5kg somethin'outhereandsomethingoverhere autonomyatCummeragunja.Hisplanwasto x Associatedwithdeeperwater,poolswithcover hastodie.Ifwedidn’tstopitthenwe irrigatethelandsfromtheMurrayRiversothat suchaslogsandbouldersandfasterflowing wouldn'thavealotofthingstoday. theycouldgrowtomato,vines,tobacco,citrus water aswellasraisecowsandexperimentwith lucerneandpigs.Traditionalfishingandhunting x Theymovelessthan500mfromtheirhome wouldcomplimentthemodernagricultural snag,withoccasionalexplorationsof20Ͳ60km developmentandmaketheYortaYortaselfͲ beforereturninghome sufficient. x Adhesiveeggsprobablylaidonhardsurfaces x Eatotherfish,yabbies,aquaticinsectlarvae,and TheseplanswerequashedbytheNSW shrimp government,whoinstalledanunsympathetic x Potentialthreatsincludeinteractionswithtrout, managerandeventuallytheAboriginalpeople redfin,habitatmodificationsuchasdesnagging, withdrewtheirlabourin1939.Duringthislong sedimentation,removalofriparianvegetation, strikealargegroupofAboriginalpeoplewalked barrierstomigrationandcoldwaterdischarges offthesettlementcompletelyandmovedto fromlargedams riverbankcampsalongtheGoulburnRivernear LowwaterexposesthesnagssolovedbyMurraycod. Mooroopna,wheretheylivedformanyyears. x Listedas‘Endangered’inNSW,ACTandthe Photosource:ColinGreen. Commonwealthandas‘Threatened’inVictoria 87 The Green Family - A lagoon for a back yard ThefivechildrenoftheGreen Lee family–Marg,Colin,David, ches HaydenandPauline(notpictured)– Whilenoteveryone’sfavouriterivercreature, wereborninCorowainthelate leechesarepartoflifenearalagoon. 1940sandearly1950s.Their Leechesareasegmentedworm,relatedto father,George,wasbornnear earthworms,whichfeedbysuckingbloodfrom passing animals. It is for this reason that leeches Yarrawongaandspenthisentire havealonghistoryofuseformedicinalpurposes lifeonorneartheriver.Thefamily inbothAboriginalandEuropeantraditions. livedin‘BrocklesbyHouse’,anold Wayne Atkinson, the historian, talked about his homestead built in 1857. YortaYortagrandfather,HenryAtkinson, photographedhereonaMurrayriverbanknear Living by the lagoon Theviewof‘TheLagoon’neartheGreenfamilyhouse Cummeragunjainthe1890s: afteritfilledinlate2010.Photo:ScottNichols. Thefamily’ssmallacreage PuppaHenryisoneofmanywhogathered Withthelagoonsoclose,theyalllearntto overlooksahorseshoelagoon,the leechesformedicalpurposesandusedthem swimwhentheywerelittle–divingfor fortraditionalhealingpractices. largestinaseriesoflagoonsthat musselswiththeirDad.Theyremember: joinwhenfloodedbytheMurray. Thekidsmadetheirownfuninthe Wewentdowntherefromwhenwewerefour surroundingbush,paddocksand yearsold,divingforfreshwatermusselsthat StateForestadjoiningthelagoons. Dadwouldfindinthemudwithhisfeet.The Itwasknownas‘TheLagoon’to Lagoonwasfullofthem.Theearlierpeople must have eaten them because shells have theGreens,‘TheChinaman’s’to beenfounduponthebank.Nodoubtthe thelocalsand‘DairyLagoon’on Aboriginalpeoplewouldhaveeatenthem.But the map. David recalls: wethoughttheytastedhorrible. DadrememberedtheChinesemarket gardeners.TheyhadahugesteamͲdriven Thekidsmadecanoesfromoldsheetsof pumpdownontheLagoon.Later,Italianstook corrugatediron,sealedwithmeltedtarand overandtheygrewvegetablesthentobacco. paint. One of these boats was called ‘Fish and Photo:AboriginalandTorresStraitIslanderPictorialArchive, N3766.34. Nowthelandisusedforgrazing. Chips’. 88 Fishing at any time Hewasalegendbecauseeverybodyknew abouthim.Weknewguysthathadset500 Fishingwaspartandparcelofdailylifeon poundbreakingstrainlinewithcartyres.It theoutskirtsoftown.Haydensaid: pulledouruncleintotheriver,andhewas26 stone. And Dad tried and it pulled him down Youcouldjustcomedownandfishanytime. the river for about a kilometre. But they saw Youcouldjustcomeandcatchafishevery it. They could get it up to the top but he’d morning.Noworriesatall.Therewerethat just roll and break the line. Could never land manythere.Mainlyredfin.Beautifulfish,one it. Had eyes like dray wheels, Dad used to ofthenicesteatingfishyou’llget.Butit’snot say. Beard of spinners, gravel rash on his anativefish. Alargecodcaughtwithalure. Photosource: Corowa bellyandsunburnonhisback. FishingClub. WhentheGreenswereonthelookoutfor nativefishinthelagoontheychased B S blackfish. lac pinn Gadopsismarmoratus(riverkblackfish,fis slippery,greasy, er h Spinnersandspoonsares types& ofluresthatattract We’donlycatchtheblackfishatnight.We’d muddy,slimy) sp fishbyreflectinglightastheymoveoothroughns the godownjustafterdark,lightafireandjustsit water.Spoonsareasimplemetallurethat looks downjustonthebankandcatchthem.But like,well,aspoon!Itswobblingmotionattracts theblackfishwillbegoneforevernow,they’ll fish.Spinnershaveabladethatrotates(spins)as nevercomeback.Becausetheywerean thelureisretrieved,reflectinglightsothatitlooks extremelydelicatefish. Photo:NSWDPI. likelightglintingofffishscales.Todaythereare x Maximumsize35cm,commonly20Ͳ25cm manyvariationsofboththesetypesoflures,butin their early history they were literally just rounded ‘The big cod’ x Pairoffine,white,softspinesunderthethroat metalplatesthatspunorwobbledaroundahook x Foundinuplandandlowlandstreams,prefershabitats The Green’s family home was surrounded by liketheaeroplanespinnerspicturedhere. withgoodcover–woodydebris,aquaticvegetationor bush,paddocksandlagoons.Atdifferent boulders timesthekidswouldcomeacrossoldtimers x SpawnsfromOctobertoJanuarywhenthewater wholivedinthebush:PhiltheCharcoal temperatureisgreaterthan16°C.Eggsdeposited Burner,JohnnyHollowtreeandGunboat insidehollowlogs,oronrocksandundercuts.Male Smith.Therewasalsoabigcodthatwasjust guardsandfanstheeggs aswellknowntoeveryoneinthedistrict.A x Eatsaquaticinsectlarvae,terrestrialinsectsthatfall fishstorytoldtotheGreenkidsbytheir intothewater,occasionallyotherfish x Verysmallhomerange(10Ͳ26m) fatherisvividlyrecalledbytheboys: Photosource: x ‘Endangered’listinginSAandSnowyRiverpopulation. lureandmore.comviewtopic.phpf=286&t=2479&p=18677. 89 The drying of a lagoon Duringtherecentdrought,theGreenshave Thedrying,andwetting,ofthelagoon. seenthelagooncompletelydryout– Inthe1950sand‘60stheLagoonwouldbe somethingtheyhaveneverseenbefore. toppedupfromtheMurrayandthenslowly Overthelastdecade,thebasinhasfilled dropoverthesummerseason.Inthe withleavesandyounggumshavesprouted summertheboyswouldtaketheirboatout inthefloorofthelagoon.Sincethe2009Ͳ10 atnightwithahomeͲmadefishfinder. rainsandfloodsthelagoonhasfilled–butit Thelagoonwouldgothroughitscycleand isstillnoplaceforfish. thenclearcompletelytopristineclearwater. Atnightwejustputaheadlightoffacaron theendofapolefourmetresdownand January2009 couldseeallthelittlefishatthebottom. Thatwasbeforethecanalwasputin. Astobaccocametothedistrictin1960sand ‘70s,acanalwasbuilttoensurewater securityforirrigators.TheGreensremember thesechanges: TheLagoonhadanaturalridgeoriginally, likeabarrage,butabout40yearsagothey cutacanalthrough,whichallowedwater fromtheMurraytobeusedforeverͲ Blackwaterisvisibleinthisphotographofthelagoon January2010 increasingirrigation.Theconstructionof neartheGreenfamilyhouse.Blackwaterevents occur naturally when there has been a build up of DartmouthDamalsohadanimpactonthe leaflitterandwoodydebrisonthefloodplain, Lagoon.Withthechangeinthenaturalhighs followedbyenoughraintosubmergethismaterial and lows the ecology changed quite a lot. andhighenoughtemperaturesthatitbeginstorot. Fromthenonwiththeincreaseinirrigation Thewaterbecomesdiscolouredandusuallyoxygen theLagooncouldbepumpedalmost‘dry’ levelsdropsignificantly.Fishcandieifoxygenlevels whichkilledalotofstuffonthebank. gettoolow.However,thisprocessenablescarbon fromthedecomposingorganicmattertoenterthe foodchain,increasingthepopulationofaquatic invertebrateswhichthenprovidefoodforfish.Photo: Scott Nichols. November2010.Photosequencesource:ColinGreen. 90 Making Connections Easter rituals on the river fortheKooricountryhelivesin,even C thoughitisnothisowncountry. hine JohnDouglasgrewupfishingintheMurray, se I’vebeenemployedtogetmoreAboriginal The1850sgoldorushn boughtmanynewpeople butendeduplivingatAlexandraandworking th peopleinvolvedinlandcare.I’veengageda toAustralia,amongtheme Malargecontingent in fisheries research at Snobs Creek Hatchery. of Chinese. They arrived in organisedur groups localgroupofmentolookafterablockof ray andlivedtogetheronthegoldfieldsallover Fishingandfamilyhavekepthimconnected landontheMurrayRiver.It’s30acres,it’s VictoriaandNSW. totheMurrayRiver.EveryEastertheDouglas gottheriverandalagoonsystemwithan family–grandparent,kids,cousins,uncles island.It’sgotdifferentspeciesthere,river Manyofthesemenreturnedhome,butsome andaunts,allconvergedonGunbowerfor redgums,wattle,differenttypesofgrasses stayedoninAustraliaworkingasmarket gardeners. Their descendents still live in theirannualcampinggetaway.He’sbeen andsedgesgrowingallaround.Sothat today'sruralareasandcities,likeRichardPing attractsanimals.Ohlook,there’syellowbelly, goingnowforoverfortyyears. Kee,oftheMoreeRecreationalFishers redfinandalotofcarp.We’llutiliseitfor YeahwecampwithinGunbowerForest,near Association. variousthemes,includingculturalactivities Koondrook.Idon’tknowwhenwefirststarted andgettingtheyoungandoldfellasout Chinesegardenersfavouredsitescloseto doingthat;Iwasprettyyoung.Althoughthey watersupplyandtownships.Theydiverted there.We’llsitaroundandhaveayarn,talk aregettingoninyears,myparentsstillmake waterthroughaseriesoftrenchesandsluices aboutthefishingandtalkabouttheoldstuff. thepilgrimage.Mysonsandniecesassociate inadditiontowateringplantsfrombuckets Everybody’sgotalittlestory.There’sso EasterwiththeMurrayRiver.Mynieceshave equippedwithbamboonozzles.Nutrientsfor manythingswithmentalhealthissuestoday. nothadanEasterthatwasnotspentonthe theirvegetablescamefromacombinationof Justgettingoutandsittingontheriverbank, animalbyͲproducts,wasteandnightsoil. river.Theannualcampingeventisachance there’snothingmorepeaceful,serene.You’re forthewholefamilytogettogether.Wechat, ProducewasoftensolddoorͲtoͲdoorfrom listening,birdsaresinging,youknow,that’s 6 sitaroundacampfire,eat,drinktea,fish–it’s cartsandbarrows. OneoftheseChinese somethingthatyoumiss. aspecialtime. marketgardensservicedthetentcitiesthat formedthroughtheconstructionofthe Locals looking after the lagoon YarrawongaWeir. Yarnin’ about fishing DavidandColinGreen’ssister,Marg, Manyplacescallednameslike‘Chinaman’s RichardKennedyisaNgiyampaamanwho remembereditwastheirmotherwho Lagoon’or‘Chinamen'sCreek’canbefound grewupatLakeCargelligoandfishedthe throughouttheMurrayͲDarlingBasin,echoing understoodthatsomeofthenewcomersto LachlanRiver.HenowworksfortheNorth theseformergardensinruralAustralia. theareamightneedthehelpoftheolder EastCatchmentManagementAuthorityin localswhenitcametocaringforthelagoon. Albury.Hefeelsthathehasaresponsibility 91 Mumwasaquietachieverandcampaigner Quieter times fortheenvironment,includingtheLagoon. Jody Liversidge lives in Shepparton and Fi Beforeitbecamefashionable,she shing campaigned against the use of DDT. You see whilesheandherhusbandHarryandtheir fo Overthetwentiethcentury,r scitripse tocampalongthe wehadItaliansgrowingtobacconextdoor. sonfishthelowerreachesoftheGoulburn rivershavebeenacrucialpartofncthee’researchon Sothattheywouldunderstandnottoputthe theyalsotraveltoLakeMulwalachasing nativeandintroducedfish.In1949Ͳ50,sJ.O. saLangtry 3 ke DDTanddieldrindrumsinthelagoonshe cod.Shewouldliketoseelessspeedboats investigatedthebiologyofnativefish. HisfieldͲwork tookhimtocampͲsitesalongtheMurrayRivertothe arrangedforwarningsoutliningthedangers andskiersinthegoodfishingspots: tobewritteninItalianandsenttothe HumeReservoir.TherehemetpeoplelikeG.E.Clark,a commercial fisher, as well as a variety of poachers who growers. We’vehadfriendsthathavebeenupthere fishingandactuallyseenmassivecod livedoffthebountyintheforest. Fishing clubs for fish floating,becausetheymusthavemusthave Langtryunderstoodtheimportanceoflocalknowledge beenhitbyaboat.Sotheyaredead,or aboutfish,wheretheylivedandhowtocatchthem OnceayeartheCorowaAnglingClubholda nearlydead,floating.Iftheygethitonthe underdifferentriverconditions.Hisscience communitybowlsdaytoraisemoney.Ken headbyaspeedboatthey’renotgoingto complimentedthislocalknowledgebyworkingout Strachan,KelliCunnigham,Merrilyn survive. importantinformationaboutthebreeding,dietsand lifespanofthefish.4 Strachan,PeterTidd,andGrahamEllisare keenparticipants,alongwithoverone Part of life NativefishresearchersJohnKoehn,JohnMckenzie, RayDonaldandJohnDouglas,whowereinterviewed hundredotherpeoplewhocomealong.The GavinValeexplainsthemanywaysthatthe forthisproject,haveallfollowedinLangtry’s clubmemberssellraffleticketsandlastyear riverandfishinghavealwaysbeenpartof footsteps,campingandfishingalongsiderecreational raised$5000.Thismoneyisusedinthe hislife: fisherswhileaddingtoourknowledgeabout ‘dollarfordollar’schemethroughNSW Australianfreshwaterfish. We holidayed on it, we swam in it, we fished Fisheries.They’vebeenbuyingfingerlingsof init,weirrigatedfromit,weusedtograze codandyellowbellytoreleaseintotheriver ourcattleintheforest.Wejustloveit,we since 1988. Ken believes that restocking is lovewhatitis.Myforefathersweretimber helpingtomaintainhealthyfishnumbersin millersandIcantakeyoutotheoriginalsites thearea: ofthosemills,andthatforesthasjustgot SincereͲstockinghascomeintoitsown, somethinginit.Idon’tknowwhatitis,it’sa we’vestartedtocatchyellowbellyinthis heartthing,it’ssomethingthatyoureally area,wherebeforeyouveryseldomevergot can’texplain. a yellowbelly, so the re stocking is really Afisheriestechnicianreleasingataggedgoldenperch.Photo: Ͳ NSWDPI. improvedtheyellowbellynumbers. 92 Visions for the Murray Thefishingpeoplewhocontributedtothis permissiontocomeontotheseriverbanks projecthavealltalkedabouttheirhopesfor tofish: thefutureoftheriver.Manyfelttheyhad Ipersonallyamlookingforwardtotheday seensomeimprovementsbutmostdon't whenIcansitonthebankofthemighty feeltheriverisashealthyyetastheywould Dhungala(MurrayRiver)andfishexclusively liketoseeit.Eachofthesefisherssuggested onmyownlandwithouttheneedforapiece waystohelptheriverandinturnhelp ofpapertosaywhatIcanandcannotdoand providehealthyhabitatsforfish. knowingthatonlymypeoplewalkhere,sit hereandfishhere.I’mnotsayingthatIwant othersexcludedfromtheriversystembutI Respect Juvenilegoldenperch–thefutureofthefishery. just want a little area where everyone who Over50%ofjuvenileslikethesecandiegoing WilliamCooper(1861Ͳ1941),aYortaYorta treadsherehasthesamethoughtintheir throughoroveraweir.Nearly100%ofadultsmallͲ 9 man,foughtforlandrightsat hearts. bodiesnativescandiethisway.Photo:LeeBaumgartner. Cummeragunjaandhadgreathopethatlife OneofthewaysMoitheribanpeople alongtheMurrayRiverwouldbeamatterof ensuredbountifulcatchesoffishwasby RichardKennedyagrees: respectingtheenvironment. limitingtheharvestoffemalefishand Ourmenhavebeenabletosucceedinthe respectingthemascriticalforhavingfish You’dtakeacertainsize,youwouldn’ttake pastandgivenachancewearesurethat intothefuture.WallyCooperthinksthatall thelittleones,youwouldn’ttaketheold manyofthemwillsucceedinthefuture.8 recreationalfisherscouldlearnthese ones,thebreeders.You’dchuckthemback. We need to get those cultural flows back lessons. In2004theYortaYortasignedajointland through,togetwaterbackoncountry,toget managementagreementwiththeVictorian Weneedtoeducatethemoftheimportance theenvironmentrightagain.Isupposeit GovernmentregardingtheBarmahMillewa ofbreeders.Thinkaboutfarmswithstud comesbacktowantingtobeinvolvedina Forestareas.Whencelebratingthis bulls,studramsandstudhorses,youdon’t particularthinglikewater.Peoplehavegot agreementWolithigaElderHenryAtkinson eatthem.Andthat’sthesamethingwith tobeconfidentaboutthewayit’sbeing talkedabouttheimportanceoffishing fish.You’vegottogetyourbreedersand managediftherearegoingtobebetter withinconnectiontocountry.Likemany keeptheminabundance.Ifyoudon’tkeep outcomesinthefuture. themthenwehaven’tgotafuture.And landholders,Henrywantspeopletoseek that’swhatwegottolookat,thefutureof ourfish. 93 J.O.Langtrywasabiologistwhotravelled theMurrayRiverin1949Ͳ50togather F S information about native fish. He fished the ish tat All native fish need tonemove between habitat areas e o ed TheSustainablef ri RiversAudit(SRA)isanongoing Murrayandtalkedtocommercialand atsomestageintheirlifecycletoto spawn,seekfood ver move systematicassessment: ‘ofpriverhealthof23major recreationalfishersandallothertypesof orfindshelter.Manyspeciesneedmigrations over rivervalleysintheMurrayoͲDarlingor Basin. 13,14 – people who lived along the river. He thinks extendeddistancestocompletetheirlifecycle. v Environmentalindicators(themes)includeery p thatitisimportanttothinkaboutthose Structuresthatspanthewidthofthewaterwaycan hydrology,fishandmacroinvertebrates,whichoareor 16 ‘ thingswecan’tseeifwewanttohelpthe actasbarrierstofishpassagebycreating: monitoredandwillhighlighttrendsovertime. fish: x aphysicalblockage:mostnativefishcan’tjump TheCentralMurrayValleywassurveyedin2005. morethan10cm,soanythinghigherthanthisisa TheCentralMurrayValleyfishcommunitywas Themaintenanceofhealthyriverflows barrier consideredtobeinPoorConditionandEcosystem meansitisnecessarytoconcentrateon x ahydrologicalbarrier:thewaterbeingforced HealthinVeryPoorCondition. lookingbelowthelandscape’ssurface–by throughaculvert,forexample,oroverorundera Only45%ofpredictednativespecieswerecaught rehydratinglandscapesandrecharging weiristoofastorcreatesapressurebarrier fromthe‘MiddleZone’(nearCorowa).Although aquifers.Thesustainablewayofdoingsois x artificialconditionsthatactasbehavioural nativefishwererelativelyabundant,thecommunity tocapturemorerainfallinthetopsoiland barrierstofish:forexamplealong,darkpassage hadlostmuchofitsnativespeciesrichnessandits thusrechargetheaquiferswithaviewto willbeavoidedbyfish. biomasswasdominatedbyalienfish(77%). restoringtheircontributiontoriverflows.10 Theimpactofsuchbarriersonfishpassagewillvary AbundantAustraliansmelt,unͲspeckedhardyhead, dependingonstructuredesign;thenatureofflow, Murray–Darlingrainbowfish,carpgudgeons,and debrisandsedimentmovementinthewaterway; flatͲheadedgudgeondominatedthenativefish. andtheswimmingcapabilitiesofresidentfish. Carpdominatedthealienspecies,whilegoldfish, Eastern gambusia, and redfin were also caught. Fishways(alsoknownasfishladders)areusedto helpfishgetpastweirslessthan6mhigh.They workbyprovidingaseriesofsmallhydraulicrises andrestingpoolsthatallowfishto‘step’theirway upandoverthebarrier.‘Verticalslotfishways’are themostcommontypeoffishwayintheMurrayͲ DarlingBasin. FishwaysbuiltaspartoftheHumetoSeaproject onallmainstemMurrayweirsincludefishways designedforlargespecies(Murraycod,golden Encasedinallthisconcreteisa‘verticalslotfishway’ perch,silverperch)andasecondfishwayfor that allows larger migratory fish like Murray cod, trout smallerspecies(gudgeons,Australiansmelt, cod, golden perch and silver perch to migrate past rainbowfish). ImaginethefishpopulationinahealthyMurrayRiver! YarrawongaWeir.Photo:ScottNichols. Photo:ScottNichols. 94
9595
Source:LukePearce. Source:SeymourAnglers. Source:SeymourAnglers.Source:SeymourAnglers. Source:JodiFrawley. 96 For nearly 90 years, Ken Gilmore has lived by and fishedintheGoulburnRiver.Photosource:KenGilmore. MickHallisapassionateandcompetitiveflyfisher. Photosource:MickHall. DonnyRichteristeachinghisgrandsontheartof fishing,notjusthowtofish.Photo:JodyFrawley. KayeandGaryGibbaremembersoftheSeymour AnglingClub.Photo:JodyFrawley. 97
…thewaterwasclear;wecouldseethefishswimmingabout;thebanks oftheriverweresolidwithtrees.Weusedtofishbeneathitsshade. TheArgus(Melbourne,Vic.),Friday8October1937,page12 98 Introducing the river and its people TheGoulburnRiver’scold,clearwatersrush Thegoldrushesofthe1850sboughtmany westwarddownfromthesteephillsand newpeopletonorthernVictoria.Thegold mountainsoftheGreatDividingRange rushesandgrazing,drylandfarmingand towardSeymour.Theriverthenturns horticultureallneededdifferenttypesof northwardandmeandersthroughhillsand workers,bringingnewpeoplewithnew plainsuntiltherivermeetstheMurray needstotheriverandnewwaystocatch upstreamofEchuca.Thesearethe fish.Chinesepeoplejoineddiggersand traditionallandsoftheTaungurung, Aboriginalpeopleand,bythe1860s,new BangerangandYortaYortapeoples. townssupportedthesmalleryeomanfarms However,theGoulburnRivertodayisnotthe championedbythegovernment. rivertheTaungurung,BangerangandYorta Allowidgee,picturedfishingusingabarkcanoeand reedspearinawaycommontoYortaYortamen.Heis Yortaonceknewandfished. shownhereatMalogaonthenearbyMurrayRiver. Photosource:StateLibraryofSouthAustralia,PRG422.3.704. Beginnings DrWayneAtkinson,aYortaYortaman,tells thecreationstoryoftheGoulburnand The arrival of the Europeans Murray Rivers: HamiltonHume1andWilliamHovell2passed Baiamecreatedtheriverbysendinghis throughtheGoulburnRiverareain1824, womandownfromthehighcountrywithher seekingapassagefromSydneytoSpencer BoatingontheriveratEchuca(dateunknown). yam stick to journey across the flat and Gulf.Theteamcampednearthepresentsite Imagesource:WangarattaLibrary. waterlessplain.Baiamethensenthisgiant ofSeymourfortwodaysatChristmassothat snakealongtowatchoverher.Shewalked they: formanywearymiles,drawingatrackinthe Problemswereemerginghoweverfrom sandwithherstick,andbehindhercamethe mightavailthemselvesofthefinefishwhich miningactivities.Theshaftminesthathad giantsnakefollowinginandoutandall aboundinitswaters,aswellasrefreshthe beensunkintheUpperGoulburncaused about, making the curves of the river bed cattle.3 heavymetalsandsilttobewashedintothe withhisbody.ThenBaiamespokeinavoice EarlyBritishsettlementfollowedtherivers. river. ofthunder,fromuphigh.Lighteningflashed The first grazing properties were set up on andrainfell,andwatercameflowingdown thetrackmadebythewomanandthe thebanksoftheGoulburnintheearly1830s. 14 snake.
99 OneoldͲtimerlamentedin1896: WhenmyhusbandandIcameherefirstthe Peop waterwasclear;wecouldseethefish le NorthernVictoriaandhasalwaysbeenoneofthemore swimmingabout;thebanksoftheriverwere t heavilypopulatedruralowareasn ofAustralia.Manyof solid with trees. We used to fish beneath its s a thetownshipsalongtheriverbeganlongwithaninnand shade.Thegoldminesdidthis,theycutthe th apunt,assistingtravellerswithlivestockande riv timberdownforfirewoodandpitprops,and providingservicestothegoldfieldsfromthe1850s.er bushfireskilledthetreesonthemountains, Alexandra,Seymour,Nagambie,Mooroopnaand andthenthefloodscameandtoretheriver Sheppartonallgrewinconjunctionwiththechanges bankstopieces;andyouseewhatfollowed.4 insurroundingindustries:grazing,dairying,mining, forestryandagriculture.Theriverwasvitalforthe Catching a large Murray cod is a memorable moment Bythe1890sthelowerreachesoftheriver growthoftheseplaces. weresupportingproductionofwheat,fruits, foranyfisher,andJodyLiversidgeisproudofthis beautiful35kgfishshecaughtintheGoulburnRiverin Fromthe1870sraillinkstoMelbourneboughtmany winegrapesandawidevarietyoffoddercrops. 2006.Photosource:JodyLiversidge. morepeople.Inthe1920s,SheppartonPreserving Grazing,dairyfarms,piggeriesandbutter CompanyandArdmonaCannerycapitalisedon factoriescontinuedtoflourishintheupper productivelocalfruitgrowingandasaresultlarge reaches.5However,thedecadesoflandclearing numbersofseasonalworkerscameandwentfrom the area.10 increasedsiltationandthealteredflowofthe riverchangedthehabitatfornativefish. Inthetwentiethcentury,carparrivedandthe riverwasregularlystockedwithnonͲnativefish, suchastrout.WaterisnowstoredinLake EildonandcontrolledbyGoulburnWeirat Nagambie.Flowspeakinsummertomeet irrigationneedsanddropsoffinwinter/spring.
TheGoulburnbecameapopularspotfor people,includingAboriginalpeople,tofishfor RonBainlookingattheoldGoulburnBridge,now theintroducedtroutandredfin.Itremainsone partofalocalheritagewalk.Hehasseenmajor changestotheriver,thebiggestcamewiththe ofthemostpopularinlandanglingspotsfor Tripstotheriverforpicnicsandfishingwerecommonfor buildingoftheweir.Itusedtobeabeautifulriver, Aboriginalpeoples,townies,farmersanditinerantworkers nativefishaswell,includingMurraycod, hesays.Photo:JodiFrawley. alike.Photosource:JimHanley. yellowbelly,Macquarieperchandblackfish.
100 Ken Gilmore – True story! I’m not telling you a lie! yellowbelly.Blackfishtoo.Weusedtolike KenGilmorewasbornin ‘Bream’werewhatKen’sfamilycalled thatthen,little‘greasys’weusedtocall 1922.Heandhisnine Macquarie perch. Others knew them as them.Theywereverysweet.Nicelittlefish brothersandsisterswere black bream, Murray bream, white eye or toeat. raisedatHughendon,a blackfish.Theywereplentifulinthe grazinganddairyfarm GoulburnRiverwhenKenwasgrowingup. Kenremembersthatotherfishhadtobe andtheonlypropertyleft Theyhavesincebecomeveryrare.Another huntedintheoffͲriverareas. inthedistrictthathasa localfisher,JimHanley,alsoremembers Theyusedtogetcatfishintheolddays.In settler’stitleonitfrom catchingthem. thelagoonsmainly.Theyweren’tintheriver. the1860s. Weweren’tveryfondofthem,though. Photosource:KenGilmore. TheMacquarieperchhavebeengonefor Somepeoplelikethem.Ididn’tlikethelook manyyears.I’veneverseenonecomeoutof Catch all the fish you want ofthem.They’rehorrible,horriblelooking theriverupstreamfromNagambieWeir.But things. BoththeRubiconandGoulburnrivers myfatherusedtocatchthemandMacquarie borderthefarmandwerecloseenoughto percharestilllocallylivingintheHughes thehomesteadthatthefamilyfished Creeks. regularlyalongitsbanks. Kids going fishing Weusedtoswimintherivereveryday duringthesummertime.Andwe’dallgo Withabigfamilyofcousinsalllivinglocally, fishing,especiallyiftherewasathunder theGilmorekidswouldoftenhangout stormapproaching.Weusedtogodown amongsttheshadytreesliningtherivers. armedwithwormsandsoforthandwe’d When they were sent to go rabbiting, they getontoashoalofbream.We’dfillasugar baginabouthalfanhourandwhatwe wouldtaketheirrodsalong.Andagameof couldn’teatweusedtoletgobecausewe cricketontheflatforsomeofthekids Melbourne railway workers used to regularly come didn’thaveanyrefrigerationbackinthose meantthatotherscouldthrowalinein toHughendonforweeklongspellsofcampingand days.Thereforeweweren’tgreedy,butyou while they waited for their turn at the bat. fishing.Kenremembers:Wegotalotofpeoplefrom couldcatchallthefishyouwanted. Kenrecallsthefishtheycaught: Melbourne,yearafteryear.Somecameeveryyear for 50 years. They used to pitch their tents on the Therewerealltypes:notmanyyellowbelly, Goulburn, and then they bought their caravans. compared with the cod and the bream. They Photosource:KenGilmore. werethemainones.Butthereweretheodd 1887
101 Catching fish? The coming of the cold water M acqu LikemanypeoplealongtheGoulburnRiver, TheoriginalweirontheGoulburnRiver, arie Kensawallsortsofwaystofish:rodsand SugarloafReservoir,wasbuiltbetween1915 (MacquariaaustralasicaͲmacca, perMurraybream, blackbream,mountainperch,whiteceye,h blackfish) reels,handlines,gillnets,drumnets,wire and1929.Duringconstructiontheweirhad nettingandsetlines. tobedrainedonatleasttwooccasions, generating ‘blackwater’ events and leading Myuncleusedtohaveapropertyuphere andhehadasetline.Hewasprettyoldand tomassivefishkills. heusedtolikeafishandonedayhelefthis Afterbeingmodifiedin1935,itwas lineinwithawormonit,andhewentback enlargedin1955andrenamedLakeEildon. the next day and there was no sign of a line. Itfilledinoneyearwiththe1956floods. Hesaid‘Wherethehellhasthatlinegotto?’ ThisnewdamservicedtheGoulburnValley Anyway,hehadalookaround,hefoundthe Photo: Luke Pearce. line, he gave it a pull, the next thing a wild irrigators.Italsokepttheriverlevels duckflewup,outoftheblackberryandhe’d constantwithwaterfromthecolddepthsof x Mediumsizedfish:canreach46cm,butusually caughtawildduckonthehookwithaworm. thelake. lessthan35cmand1kg Truestory!I’mnottellingyoualie! NinetytwoyearoldRonBainremembers Found in the cool water in the upper reaches of x Ken remembers the fun he used to have thesechanges. theMurrayͲDarlinginVictoria,NSWandthe ACT withhisfriendswhentheywouldgofishing. Terrificchanges!Thebiggestchangewas x SpawninOctoberͲDecemberwhenadultsmove AYugoslavfriendgavemesomelinesand whentheybuilttheweir.Seetheyhada intotributariesandspawnatthefootofpools theyhadlittlebellsonthetopofthem.Iwas smallwall,anditoperatedforquiteafew a bit of a devil. I used to ring these bells yearsandthenwhentheybuiltthebigger x Eatshrimpandsmall,bottomdwellingaquatic one,itloweredtheflowofwaterdownthe insects myselfandtheyusedtocomeracingupto seewhatIhadonmyline.Nextthing,they riverconsiderably.Andthenofcourseit Potential threats include interactions with trout x wereallsittingbesidemebecauseIwas loweredthetemperatureofthewater;and andredfin,sedimentation,removalofriparian gettingallthebitesanditwasonlyme thecoddidn’tlikethat.Itusedtobea vegetation,barrierstomigrationandcold ringing the bells! beautifulriver,youknow.Itusedtogetabit waterpollution ofafloodeverytwoorthreeyears.Andof x Listedas‘Threatened’inVictoria,andas courseitleftlagoons,sotherewouldbenice ‘Endangered’bytheCommonwealth fishinthelagoonsaswell.Butallthat’s gone,there’snoneofthatnow.
102 LakeEildonchangedtheriverofKen’syouth. A Hewasusedtoswimmingintheriverbut Cold riv once the weir went in, it was too cold. Ken wa er o x LakeEildonisalargeteimpoundmentr (3334GL) In1884,MLAAlfredDeakinfled wae‘Royal alsoremembershowtheweirchangedthe poll Commission into Irrigation’ and travelledirs to x Insuchlarge,deepimpoundmentsutithewater waytheriverflooded. on CaliforniaandIndiatoinvestigateinfrastructure columncanformdistinctlayers(‘thermal andschemes.Australia’sfirstmajorstructurewas Assoonastheweirwasputin,thewater stratification’)withalayerofcoldwater formingatthebottomofthedam builtontheGoulburnRiverin1887.Thisweir wentdowntoabout10degrees.Youcouldn’t formedLakeNagambie,whichbecameafamous swiminit.You’dfreezetodeathifyou x Thewaterisreleasedfromthedeeppartsof fishingspotforintroducedredfinaswellasfor jumpedin.You’dsoonjumpoutagain.Inthe thedam,whichmeansthewaterthatflows native fish. By 1893 the weir’s channel linked up downstream is colder than would occur olddays,thefloodswouldbeupandgonein 400milesofgravityfedreticulationonthe naturally 5 acoupleofdaysbutwhentheyfilledtheweir westernsideoftheriver. upin’56,whenwehadfloodshereͲthey x Thisisknownas‘coldwaterpollution’(CWP). The impacts of the cold water extend at least SugarloafReservoirwasbuiltbetween1915and wouldlastaboutamonth.Well,itprobably 100kmdownstream11andthisstretchofriver 1929,toincreasethestoragecapacityforthearea. didaffectalotoffish.Ithappenedafterthey Bigger changes were afoot in the 1950s when large isdominatedbycoldwaterspeciessuchas builttheweir. damswereengineeredtomitigatetheimpactof trout floodingandprotectcommunitiesagainstdrought. DonColliholeagreeswithKenthatthecold x CWPcanchangethetypesofplantsand In1955thenewdamͲLakeEildonͲwasopened, waterchangedthehabitatforthenativefish. animalsthatwillliveintheaffectedareasof replacingthereservoir. theriver.Itcanalsoreducegrowthratesin Pre’56,theyusedtocatchheapsofcod Unliketownsfurtherdownstream,thedamhelped fishanddelayorpreventtheirsuccessful downhere.AndthentheyfinishedEildon,the theGoulburnRiverdistricttoescapetheworstof spawningorrecruitment.Thiscanleadto water got that cold coming from down the 9 thehugefloodof1956. increasedvulnerabilityandreducedsurvival bottom,thecodjustcouldn’tbreed. Don’smateGeoffVernon,bornin1950, representsagenerationoffishersthathas neverknowntheGoulburninitsnatural state.Hecaughttheintroducedtrout,rather thanthenativecod,Macquarieperchor yellowbelly.Heremembers: AnoldpostcardoftheGoulburnWeir Mostlytrout,‘causeinthosedays,itwasa LakeEildon.Photo:FernHames. (dateunknown).Imagesource:WangarattaLibrary. prettycoldriverandthat’saboutallthere wasaround.
103 Mick Hall – Fly flicker extraordinaire MickHallwasthefirst TheyeventookmidͲweekjauntsbyskipping Australiantoreceive outofworkearlysomedaysanddrivingthe theprestigious hourandhalftotheGoulburn.Theywould SportsmanshipAward fishforafewhoursandbebackontheroad atthe‘OneFly’event by9.00pm.Attheweekendsthey’dcamp. in Jackson’s Hole, Ifirststartedcomingupinthe‘50sasa Wyoming,USA,in teenager.Ihadacarandcoupleofmates 1996. andwe’ddothetypicalthing.Camponthe Photosource:MickHall. river,drinktoomuch,fishtoomuch,stayup allnight,drivebackhomethenextday,goto That’salongjourneyfromRelubbusonthe adiscoorsomething,thenofftoworkonthe River Hayle in England where he was born in Mondaymorning.Buteveryweekendwe 1941. usedtocomeawayfishing. BillAustingivingwouldͲbeflyfishersadistance castingdemonstrationatEildonin1945.Heis Fishing got hold of me FishingintheGoulburnRiverintheearly handling30yardsoflinewithanAustralianͲmade daysmeantchasingwhateverwasinthe canerod.Photosource:MickHall. Hegotanearlystartwithtroutfishingby water.ButMickdecidedearlyonthatitwas exploringtheriverthatranalongsidethe flyͲfishingthatwasworthpursuing. Reading the river familycottage.Hewasfour!Hecameto And I always wanted to learn to fly fish. I TroutfishingintheGoulburnRiverareaand Australiain1949andasateenager couldseetherewasalotofmeritbecause inLakeEildonismostlydoneoffthebanks, reacquaintedhimselfwithtroutintherivers thereweresomanychallengesinit.Wewere ratherthanfrominboats.ForMick,finding nearMelbourne.Atfourteen,hesays,he attheThorntonBridgeandwe’dhadabig theperfectlittlestreamwheretroutlived washooked: dayfishingsinceveryearlyinthemorning. wasamatteroftrampingaroundtheupper That’swhenitgotholdofme.Youknow, Thisguycameuptheriverandhe’sflickinga reachesoftheriverandlearningasmuch thatdisease–it’slastedallmylife.I’ve flylinearound.Isaid‘there’ssometheother abouttrouthabitatashecould. playedaroundwithotherstuffbuttrout side.I’vebeenwatchingthemrising’.Andhe fishing’sbeenmylove. goesandhecatchesthem.Myjawjustwent Mickremembersthatinthe1960s,asitis baͲboom;‘Igottadothis.Ijustgottado today,itwasthecolourofthewaterthat As a young man Mick lived on the outskirts this!’I’vebeena‘flyflicker’everysince. wasanimportantindicator. ofMelbourne,soheandhismatescould headuptotheriveratamoment’snotice.
1860 1853 Rivertransport Adozensteamboatsworkingtheriveranditstributaries SSMaryAnnmakesfirsttripfromGoolwatoMoama 104 Youcouldreadtheriversbythecolours.In thesmallermountainstreams,you’dsee Abo variouscoloursofkhakithatreflectedback rigi Over the nineteenthnacenturyl Aboriginal people offthebottomandthedeeperthecolour,the Fis continuedtolivealongtheGoulburnhin River. darkerthewater,thedeeperthewaterand g Womencarriedfishhooksmadefromgmusselea that’s where you’d find the fish. Especially if r shellsandusedkidneyfatforattractingthefish. ithadsurfacemovementonitlikebubble Hookswereattachedtocoilmadefromriverreed linesorwherethewaterwastumblingalittle andcastintotheriverortrolledbehindboats bit.Becausethatgaveprotectionforthefish. arounddeeperholesintheriver.Shortspears Theycouldn’tbeseenfromabovebythe wereusedfordivingandlongerspearswereused The‘redtag’(left)isaclassicflyusedtocatchtrout.Fliesare birds.Whenyougotgoodatit,youreallydid fromcanoes. designedtomimicthefoodthateachfishspecieschases. Mayflies like the Aussie March Brown (Atalophlebia australis), gettheresults.Butittooktime. Aboriginalmenalsousedaspearsetasideentirely Ͳ right, are favourites of both trout and native fish. forkillingfish.Atfivefeetlongandaninchthick Photos: Luke Pearce. The lure of the fly thespearwasnotthrown,butusedasalance. PeterBeveridge,observingfishinginVictoriaand Flyfishingdependsontheartificialfly theRiverinainthe1880s,noted:…theyselecta Nativefish,suchas lookingtastytoafish:thebestoneslooklike stretchofshallowwater,fullofreedsandother Murraycod,canalso be caught on a fly. The theinsectsthefisheat.Mickhasspentmany aquaticplants,overwhichthewaryfisherman fliesthatattractnative hourswithfeathers,yarn,twineandhessian propelshiscanoe….Everynowandthenhethrusts the plain end of the stick sharply to the bottom, fisharedifferentto threads copying what he has seen in the therebydisturbingthefeedingfish.Asamatterof thosethatattract river. coursetheyrushawayfromthedisturbance trout.Photo:LukePearce. shaking the plants in their hurry, which at once tells Throughthespringandsummermonthswe thekeenͲeyedfishermanthepositionofhisprey'.6 alwaysgetalotofinsecthatches,alotof terrestrialstuff;frombeetlesthroughto Differentsortsofnetswereusedfordifferent Cod visit when its warm enough grasshoppers,ants,thissortofthingthat creaturesfromtheriver:someforMurraycrays Whilehemighthavechasedtrout wereonthewaterallthetime,aswellasour andothersforcatchingbirds,includingducks.Nets ninety metres long and one and a half metres wide throughout his life, Mick was also on the aquaticsources;betheystoneflies,bethey wereweightedonthebottomwithclayandhad caddis,midgeormayfly.It’sallthere,and lookoutfornativefishandhowthey floatsmadefromreeds. we’veseentheirmajoroccurrences,andthen interactedwiththeintroducedspecies. Thesenetsweredrawnthroughthewaterbythe thefishfeedingonthem.Andfromthis BythetimeMickhadstartedfishinghere we’velearntmoreaboutthebugsandtheir men,andthewomenandchildrensortedand picked the catch of cod, silver and golden perch, thecoolingoftheGoulburnRiverhad habitsandwhattheyneeded.Andjusthow catfish,blackfishandturtles. alreadychangedthehabitatfornativefish. vulnerabletheyaretochangesinthesystem. 105 Wedon’tgetalotofthecodandyellowbelly Little s rightupintheUpperGoulburntoLake W nat Eildon.Theymaycomeupandvisit,during illo Severalspeciesofivsmalleres nativefishoccurincolder w w in thesummermonthswhenthewater’swarm oe mountainstreams,includingmrecreationalou speciessuch s nta enoughforthem.Asamatteroffact,the asblackfish(slipperies,muddies)andothers,in st suchas galaxias(severalspeciesofGalaxias,alsoknownreamas littleblackfishthatwe’vegotaroundhere jollytail).13 areinabsoluteabundance.There’slotsof them.Andso,wefoundthere’sverylittle conflictthere‘causethehighmountain streamsaretheonesthatthetroutreallydo preferbutsometimesthey’llmovedownto wherethecodare.
Mickpointstotheuseofheavymachinery Willows being removed – one control option. Barredgalaxias.Photo:GuntherSchmida(Photosource:MDBA). andfarmchemicalsasbeingaconcernfor Photo: Helen Shimitras. fish.Aswellasremovingsnags,machineryis x SeveralspeciesofGalaxias,withamaximumsizeof x Willowsareinvasiveandarespreadbothbyseedand between15Ͳ20cmbutmorelikelyaround8Ͳ10cm alsobeingusedtoremoveinvasiveweeds likewillowsfromsomeareasalongtheriver asfragmentswhichtraveldownstream x Barredgalaxias(pictured)areonlyfoundinthe x Althoughsomefishwillshelterunderwillows,willows headwaters of the Goulburn River. They were bank.Mickagreesthatgovernmentsare candominateriparianareas,displacingnative severely affected by the Victorian Black Saturday nowdoingabetterjobthanbefore,but species.Theycreatedenseshadeandproduce fires. Remaining populations were kept in aquaria thinksauthoritiesstillneedtobevigilant significantleaffallinautumn,whichdepletes until vegetation in the catchment grew back, then aboutotheranimalsthatmaybeaffected. dissolvedoxygenlevelsandchangesthefoodsupply they were released back into the wild withintheaquaticecosystem Thisisalittlebitcontroversial,becauseupon x Barredgalaxiasarearelativelylonglivedfish–upto x Willowscanalsomodifychannelshapeandcapacity, theRubiconwherethey’redoingtheremovalof 13yearsold! divertflow,accumulatefinesiltandcontributeto willows,Ifoundtwodeadplatypus.Onewas x Barredgalaxiasarelistedas‘Threatened’nationally erosion badlydecayedandtheotheronewasn’t;itwas x Ifwillowsarebeingremoved,itisimportantto x Mountaingalaxiaslayeggsontheundersideof ayounganimal.Idon’tknowifitwasbecause stones in the head of pools and riffles. These fish are ensuretheyarereplacedprogressivelywithnative they’dbeendislodged,orifitwasthepoisons thoughtnottomigrate,andhaveasmallhome trees.Thecompleteremovalofalltreesoverhanging theywereusing,whetheritwascontractor rangeofabout19m theriverwillresultinwatertemperaturesthatare doingit,Idon’tknow.Maybethedeathsof higherinsummerandlowerinwinterandalso Mountain galaxias are the only native fish found in x platypusarenotrelatedtotheseworks,butI increasenativefishexposuretopredators thealpinezoneabovethesnowlineduringwinter mean,theyjustgoinandblastawayat everything. 106 Donny Richter – Changing habits Donnywasbornin1948and A cod would live there We’d just catch them all raisedinMelbourne.Hewas Hisloveoffishingstartedoutsmall,learning apprenticedasapainterand IntheseearlydaysDonnyandhismates tofishwithhisfamily. decoratorandasayoungman wouldcatchasmanyfishastheycould. moved around northern Myfatherwasabuilderandhewasalways Butbackintheolddayswe’ddoeverything working,andonlyduringholidaytimes Victoria.HelivedinBoortin wrong.We’dputincrosslinesandspringers wouldhetakemeandmyyoungerbrothers theMalleeandthenat andsetlinesthatwewouldleaveovernight. fishing.Aslifewenton,Iwentoutonmy BarmahontheMurrayRiver. Wecouldhaveupto40springersinand ownͲ16,17,20Ͳfishing,andboughtmy AfterastintinGeelong,he catch10fish.Acoupleofcrosslinesandyou firstboat.Itcostme$290.Littlesixhorse returnedtoShepparton, couldgetupto20codatatime. powerChryslermotor,andfromthereit’s finally putting, as he says, ‘a big taproot justgrown,mate.Biggerandbetter. Bigcatchesoffishmeantbigstoriesatthe down’in1983atMurchison.Histhreeacre pub. blocksitshighonthebankoftheGoulburn– Asayoungman,Donnyandhismateswould plentyofroomforabigshedthathouseshis headoutoncampingtripsontheriver. We’djustcatchthemandhadtobringthem homeandgetinthepubandbrag.‘Oh,we boats,caravan,multiplefishingrods, Findingtherightspotwascrucialtomaking caughtthismanyfish’.Whatwediditfor:I hundredsofluresandhalfadozencod itagoodfishingweekend. don’tknow.You’dgivethemawayorthey’d trophies. Well,first,we’dlikeplentyofshade.And gorotten. we’dsetthecampupthere,butthen,when wegodowntheriverintheboat,we’dlook How to fish - properly forspotswherewethought‘acodwouldlive there’,likeanold,deadtreeinthewaterora Allthischangedin1977when,atage27, heapofbrancheslayingaround,orabitofa DonnymethismateNoelAnderson. swirlunderalogandabig,hardclaybank– Noeltaughtmealotaboutfishingand we’dalwayslookthemout. catchingcodandlurefishing.And,yeah,I wouldliketosay‘Thankyou,Noel’‘causehe wastheonewhoputmeonthestraightand narrow,insteadofspringersandcrosslines. Heknewallthetricks,heknewwheretoput Donny’sworkshop.Photo:JodiFrawley. linesin,wheretofishandallthatstuff.He 107 wastheonethatreallyshowedmehowto Carphavebeenabigprobleminthe fish–properly. M GoulburnRiverovertheyears.Donny urra remembersatimewhentheriverwas y c Fortwentyyears,DonnyandNoelwent (EuastacusarmatusͲrSpinyays cray) fishingonceamonth. boilingwiththem. DonnyintendstoteachhissixͲyearͲold IcanrememberattheWeir,you’dlookover, at the bottom of the spillway there would be grandson,Charlie,everythingthatNoel thousandsandthousandsofcarp.Thewater taughthim. wasjustbubblingwiththem.Yearsago, Well,atthemoment,I’mtakingmysixͲyearͲ you’dgouptheriverandthere’dbecarpon oldgrandsonfishing.I’mnotgoingtoteach theriverbank.Peoplehavecaughtthemand himtheoldways.IwanttoteachCharlie throw‘emupthereandthey’dstink. Photo:NSWDPI. whatI’vebeentaughtforthefuture Donnythinksthingshavechangedoverthe x Reportedtogrowto3kgandarethe2nd generation.Whathelearnsfromme,it’ll dry years of the drought. He hears different largestfreshwatercrayfishintheworld helphimandmaybehecanhelpsomeone elselateron. ideasfromhisfishingmatesastowhythe x ConfinedtoRiverMurrayandtributaries,and carpmightnotbeasplentifulasbefore. foundonlyinthemainchannels Of crays and carp Thecarpseemtobegone.Idon’tknow x Preferscool,strongflowingwater,withhigher why. There are lots of theories; they reckon oxygencontent OvertheroadfromDonny’splaceisasteep thecodareeatingthem,butthen,Idon’t Active through the coldest months from May claybankthatslidesdownintothewatersof x knowifthewatermightbegettingtoocold toOctober the Goulburn: a perfect spot for Murray forthemandthey’reheadingfurthernorth, crayfish.Whenhe’supforafeed,Donny x Slowgrowing:5Ͳ10gin1styear,mayreach40g Idon’tknow. after2Ͳ3yrs moseysovertotheriveranddropsinanet withapunchedtinofdogfoodforbait. x Breedingweightis200Ͳ250g,whichtakes about6Ͳ9years Infrontofmyplaceyoucanputanetinto gettheMurraycrays.I’llpullthatnetup,and x Breedlateautumnandearlywinter,carrying eggs (‘berried up’) until October I’llsay‘I’llhaveyouandyou’,andtherestI tipbackintotheriver.Whybegreedy? x Steadydeclineinnumberssince1940s They’re always there. Why take 20, when you x ContinuingreductioninsizeinNSWsince onlywanttwo. 1960s 108 Kaye and Gary Gibb - From the ocean to the river KayeandGarywere It’sadifferenttypeoffishingtothesea KayeandGarybothlikecatchingabigcod bothbornintheearly fishing.Therearedifferentbaitsbecauseup whentheyareoutontheriver. Northyoudidmainlylurefishingforthefish 1950s,butgrewup The ultimate in fishing probably is to catch a wecaught.Weusedifferentluresandbaits fishingincompletely cod. They’re a very lazy fish to catch though. downhereforthedifferenttypesoffish.I differentpartsof They’re big, like a big log just pulling, or a big hadtolearnwheretogo,whatsnagslook Australia.Kayelearntto snag or something. Very good when you do good. fishdoggymackeraloff getaniceone. theQueenslandcoastnearTownsville;while GaryandKayeliketofishinthelakesaround GarytookdaytripstotheWakoolRiverwith theGoulburnRiver.Fishingfromtheboatin hisDadandbrothers. thestillerwatersgivesthemtheopportunity touseberleytoattractthefishtowhere KayecametoVictoriain1973,butleft theyare.Garyexplains: fishingasideformostofherlife,takingitup againwhenshemetGarytenyearsago. Berleyisusedmoreinthelakesbecause, otherwise,ifyou’reintheriversystem,itjust IgottangledupwithGary.Hewasakeen flowsawaytooquickandyou’rejustfeeding fisherpersonandsaidifIwantedtogoout thefishorattractingfishfurtherdownthe withhimIcouldgo.Isaid‘Oh,yeah,Iusedto river.Unlessyou’vegotyourownlittleberley fishquiteabitathome’.So,westarted bombswhichhangoverthesideofyour JimHanley,anotherlocalfisher,likestofishforcodin goingoutwiththeSeymourAnglingClub boat.Weuseberleypelletsthatarelike LakeMulwala.Photosource:JimHanley. onceamonth. chickenpellets–allreadymadeͲup,readyto go.Sometimesweaddourownlittle OneofthechangesthatKayeandGaryhave Fishing – you never forget how ingredients – fish oils or ground up baits. Just seenisthebanontroutcodinVictoria. togiveitthatsmellandtoaddasan Itwasabitlikeridingabike;askillthatKaye Sincethisbanwasintroduced,they,like attractant. hadnotforgotten–It’sjustarefreshermore manyotherfishersontheGoulburnand sothananythingelse.Kayedidhavetoadapt othernearbyrivers,haveseenareturnof what she knew about ocean fishing, and thetroutcodtotheirregularcatches. Garytaughtherwhattolookoutforouton theriver. 109 Wedosometimescatchafewtroutcodbut Fishing in the dry becausethey’reaprotectedspecieswe’ve gottoletthemgo.Youthinkyou’vegota SinceKayestartedfishingagain,droughtand lovelyfishon,untilyoubringitupandsay dryerriversthathavebeenthenorm.Kaye ‘well,oh,I’vegottoletthisonego’.Beautiful hasnoticedthatthefishcanadapttothe lookingfish,butofcourse,Icanunderstand wideswingsinthewaterlevelsassociated whytheyhavetoletthemgo. withdroughtsandfloods. Fishing weekends away Shesays: Theydon’tseemtobreedasmuchina TheGibbsrarelymisstheSeymourAngling droughtbecausetheyknowthatthere’snot Clubs’ monthly weekends away. They set out Troutcod(background(Maccullochellamacquariensis) asmuchwater,there’snotasmuchfeed. onFridayandsetupcamp,usuallyonthe alsoknownasbluenosedcodorbluecod)andMurray cod (foreground (Maccullochella peeli) also known as Sincethe2010floods,there’smorefeed riverbank.ThecompetitionstartsonSaturday Guduu,PondeeorPondi)lookquitesimilarandhave around,so,ofcourse,they’regoingto morning and finishes on Sunday with a weigh Ͳ beenknowntohybridise.Photo:NSWDPI. flourishmore. inforfirst,secondandthirdprizes.Theyfish forsixtoeighthourseachdayandeitheruse Timber in the river keepernetsorphotographthefishsothey Kayehasalsonoticedthatthelongdryspell canreleasethem. followedbytherisingwatersofthelastyear Differentplacestheyvisitmeandifferentfish. hascausedmanymoreredgumsthanusual There’squiteafewsilverperchinthe totoppleover. Goulburnbutwe’renotallowedtokeep Justrecently,there’sbeenquiteafew them.YoucangoasfarasYarrawongaor treesfromthebankfallenintotheriver, Mulwala,Echucaandbackdowntowards andIknowthat’sgoodforthefish,but,I Cobram.WhenwegotoNagambie,there’s think,you’vestillgottocleantherivers quiteafewcod.We’vegotoneplace,that’s outalittlebittoletthewaterflow. agoodlittleMurraycodplace,closeto Seymour.Wegetpermissionofftheowners Thesecod,caughtin2006,werethefirstcodJim andgodownthere.Someofourmembers Hanleyandhisfishingmateshadcaughtfromthe havecaughtcodandmostofthemhave GoulburnRiverin30years.Twoweighedinat8 beenreleasedbecausetheywanttokeep poundsandtwoat6pounds.Photosource:JimHanley. themintheriverhere. 110 KenGilmoreisanotherfisherwhothinks Notsolongagotheywerepullingallthe thattheriverbanksaredifferentthanthey treesouttocleantheriversandwaterways Snag oncewere: up.Itcostafortune.Now,they’reputting FAQ logsbackinorlettingthetreesgointhere.It s Blackwattle.Theyusedtofallinalot. maybeagreatthingforthefishhabitat.It OneoftheengineersinAlexandra,hehad maynotbeinsomeways.Itdoestendtosilt theideahewasgoingtoclearthebanks uptherivers,andtostopalotofflow.Now, tostopthetreesfallingintheriver,butno dependingonwhatyouwant:Doyouwant oneagreedtothat.There’sgumtrees tocleantheriversoutorkeepthemflowing? whoserootsystemsseemtobeweakened Or,doyouwanttoblock‘emup?It’sgood andtheyseemtobefallinginmorethan forthefish,perhaps,butit’sstillgottohave whattheyusedto.About15acresofland alotofflow.So,it’sgoodandbad.Andthe wentinuphere,youcouldhearitfalling otherthingis,ofcourse,alotofsnags.Well, Naturalsnags.Photo:FernHames. in.Thewatergotunderneaththebanks it’sgoodforthefishing,butnotsogoodfor Whyweresnagsremoved? and,allofasudden,you’dhearagreat theboaterthatwantstogooutthereand Upuntil1995snagswereremovedtoimprove ‘whoosh’ and in the middle of the night puthisboatinthere.Yougottatryandget navigationandbecausetheywerethoughtto abouthalfanacreofsoilwouldfallinthe aroundthemandallthatbutinafast increaseerosionandflooding. riverandgodowntheriver. flowingriver,liketheGoulburn,itcanbe Whyaresnagsimportant? Theironyisthatmoresnagsinthispartof dangerous.But,fishdoneedhabitatsand SnagsprovidehabitatfornativefishlikeMurraycod therivermayhaveprotectedthebanksand theyneedbreedingplaces–anditdoesslow andtroutcod.Snagsareusedforshelter,territorial – but ah, what can you say? That’s it. That’s markersandasambushsites.Tothesespecies,a preventedtheunderminingofthetree thewayIfeel. snagishome–Murraycodhavebeenrecorded roots. migrating240kmupstreamandreturningtothesame snag16,andwenowknowthat80%ofMurraycodare NonethelessGaryGibbworriesabout 17 foundwithin1mofasnag! desnagging–hecanseebothsidesofthe Do snags cause erosion? argument: IncertaininstancessmallͲscaleandshortͲterm erosionmayoccur,butinmanycasessnagsmay reduceerosionandareimportantforbankstability. Aresnagsjustthrownin? No.Agreatdealofscientificandengineeringanalysis goesintodeterminingtherightposition,size,number andtypeofsnagputbackintotheriver.Permission fromStateagenciesisalsoneededpriortoworks. 111 Making connections Fathers, brothers and sons Working for fish FishinghasbeenanimportantwayforJohn Wally Cubbin has fished the Goulburn since Douglastoconnectbothwithnatureandwith 1958. He’s the Secretary of the Nagambie histwosons.Johnisbothafishscientistand Fishing Club and a representative on VRFish, apassionaterecreationalfisher.Bornin1960 a recreational fisher organisation in Victoria, andtaughttofishontheMurrayRiver,hehas whose motto is ‘Fish for the Future’. Wally beenlivingintheAlexandraareaformostof sees advocacy as an important way to work hisadultlife.Hesays: towardahealthyriverandbringbackthe John Douglas (centre) wants to share his childhood fish. Ialwayshadthisthing–Ilikedgoingfishing fishingexperienceswithhisownsons.Johnisshown withtheoldman–soIthoughtit’dbenicetogo I’dbeencollectingalotofdataonthefish herewithhisbrotherRay(front)andUncleIan. fishingwithmykids.Iftheywantedtogo,they Photo:BruceDouglas. killsovertheyearsfromthedifferent went.Iftheydidn’t,Idon’tthinkIforcedthem. agencies.DrPaulSinclair,theDirectorof Mickhasbeenanadvocateforthe‘AdoptͲaͲ Myoldestoneisnotthatkeenonitatthe EnvironmentVictoria,cametoNagambie Stream’program,aVictorianDPIFisheries minute,buttheyoungerone’sprettykeen.But andhehadalookatitall,hehadalookat initiative. thentheolderonewillcomebackandhe’dbe thepicturesandhesaid,‘Wouldyoube lookingattheweather,going,‘Oh,weshould WhatIenvisagedfrom‘AdoptͲaͲStream’was interestedingettingtheGoulburnValley sneakdowntheriver.’Soit’sasocialthing,we maybegettingprojectslikethosebeingdone AssociationofAnglingClubstohelpwithan cancatchupandyoucanstandintheriverand intheUnitedStates.Somanyofour auditonGoulburnͲMurrayWater?Astothe haveafishandchat.Soit’sprettygood. waythattheymanagetheirwaterways, scientistsjustthink‘Fish’andnothingelse. ecologicallyandenvironmentally?’AndI Thebottomlineistoconsiderallthelife RonBainis92yearsoldandremembershow, said,‘Yes,wewould.We’dliketodothat.’ that’sintheriver.It’stheinͲstreamhabitat asayoungman,heandhisbrother,father thatisjustsoimportantofthesurvivalof andbrotherͲinͲlawwouldpackuptheflatͲ FlyfisherMickHallunderstandsthe everything.ThebirdlifeandwaterͲfowl bottomedpuntandheadofffishing. importanceofhabitat,forbothnativeand disappearswithwillowremoval.Youdon’t introducedgamefish.Hecampaignsfor seethembackagain‘tilthere’scoverback We’dgetthelocalcarriertoputourboatsonhis habitatcareandisinvolvedwiththeNative again.You’vegottoplantsothatyou’vegot truckandgouptoAlexandraandthenwe FishStrategypeopletoimprovethegeneral shadedareas,you’vegotwhatnaturegives wouldfloatallthewaydowntheriver.We’d spendoveraweekandthat’dbeourannual healthoftheriverforallfish. youinmountainstreams.‘Causethat’sthe wayitsurvives,ifyoudon’t,itjustchokes holidays.We’dsleepontheislandsinthedays itselfanddies. whentherewereislandsontheriver.Andwe’d 112 floatourwaydown,spinningaswewent.There If we look after the river, the werefastrapidsintherivertoo,youknow,and river will look after itself Moo bygolly,itwasgoodfun.Comingdownthere. roo AfterthestrikeagainstGovernmentpna interferenceat InhissocialwelfareworkwiththeSalvation Cumeragunjain1939,alargegroupofAboriginal Fishing from Dhungala Army,49ͲyearͲoldDarylSloanhasmetmany peoplewalkedoffthemissiontosettleinriverbank different people who camp along the In2004theYortaYortasignedajointland campsalongtheGoulburnRivernearMooroopna. Goulburn River. These days, the needy and managementagreementwiththeVictorian Theybuiltmakeshifttentsofhessianandtinon'The homeless live in the bush around GovernmentregardingtheBarmahMillewa Flats',thelowͲlyinglandbetweentheriverandthe Shepparton. But Daryl points out that there highway and later groups moved over the road to Forestareas.TheYortaYortaconnectionsto is a long history of riverbank camps – Daish’spaddock.TheyworkedattheArdmona theGoulburnRiveraredeeplyfeltandwhen includingthe1939campsofAboriginal factory,theMcLennans’FlourMillandatfarms celebratingthisagreementWolithigaElder outside of town. Fishing and hunting along the river people at Mooroopna, Anglo Australian HenryAtkinsontalkedabouttheimportance Ͳ providedfoodforsurvivalandaplaceforthemobto seasonal workers and European backpackers offishingwithinconnectiontocountry.Like gather. oftoday. manylandholders,Henrywantspeopleto BeatriceAitkinsonremembers: seekpermissiontocomeontotheseriver NewAustraliansandoldAustralianslivedon ‘Wehadnosocialservicesoranything.Itwas bankstofish. thebanks,wheretherewasapromiseof hardbuthappytimes.Everyoneshared,whether seasonalworkdependentonirrigation.The youwereshortofanonionorwhatever,you I personally am looking forward to the day could sit down and talk'.8 bushofferedprivacy,warmthfromafireand when I can sit on the bank of the mighty aplaceforfishingandotherfood.Butthe The1974floodwassohighitwashedaway324 Dhungala (Murray River) and fish exclusively lackofservicesmeanthatthesecampsstill housesinMooroopna.Thecampwasalsoinundated on my own land without the need for a piece pollutetheriver.Weneedtousesome andpeoplehadtomovetohigherground;rebuilding of paper to say what I can and cannot do and commonsenseaboutthefuture.Ifwelook oncethewaterreceded.Thisareaisnowknownas knowing that only my people walk here, sit Rumbalara.8 aftertheriver,theriverwilllookafteritself. hereandfishhere.I’mnotsayingthatIwant othersexcludedfromtheriversystembutI justwantalittleareawhereeveryonewho treadsherehasthesamethoughtintheir hearts.15
ApostcardshowingtheMooroopnaRoadinflood (no date). Photosource:WangarattaLibrary. 113 Visions for the Goulburn Thefishingpeoplewhocontributedtothis Hayleydisagreeswiththewaythemedia projecthavealltalkedabouttheirhopesfor pitstheenvironmentagainsteconomic thefutureoftheriver.Manyfelttheyhad development.Insteadshethinksthatthere seensomeimprovementsbutmostdon't isabrightfutureaheadforourwaterways. feeltheriverisashealthyyetastheywould Itshouldn’tbeacompetitionbetween liketoseeit.Eachofthesefisherssuggested environmentsandfarmingbecauseIthink ways to help the river and in turn help peoplewouldfindthatalotofyoungfarmers providehealthyhabitatsforfish. areactuallyveryenvironmentallyaware. Theyjustneedtoknowhowmuchwater Ecology and industry they’regoingtogetandthey’llworkaround At26yearsoldHayleyPurbrickisthefifth itinanefficientway.Idon’tthinkthatthe AsmokingceremonyatTahbilkwelcominggueststo governmentagenciesaretalkingtotheright generationofthePurbrickfamilytoliveat a2010NativeFishAwarenessWeekevent,overseen peoplewhenitcomestosharingwater. Tahbilkwheretheyhaveaverysuccessful byTaungurungman,RoyPatterson.Photo:JodiFrawley. They’retalkingtotheexistinggeneration wineryandfarmingbusiness.Shegrewup Hayleywouldliketoseemorerecognition andIthinktheexistinggenerationhasdone fishinginLakeNagambiewithherbrother. a great job but that the next generation is thattherehasbeenagenerationalshiftin Inrecentyears,thefamilyhasturnedtheir quitedifferentintheirwayofthinking.They environmentalattitudes,particularly,she attentiontotheTahbilkwetlandthatsitsin areenvironmentallyaware,andtheydon’t says, in relation to river rehabilitation and thecentreofthefamily’sland.Itwasoncea wanttoseethewaterwayslostbecausethey management. wetanddryanabranchoftheGoulburn usethemforfishingandskiingandboating River,completewithhorseshoelagoons.The I’dliketoseeNagambiepeopleembrace aswellasforirrigation. GoulburnWeirchangedthis.Theweirpool theirwaterwaysandactuallyutilisethemin keptthewaterlevelinthewetlandhighand apositiveway.IthinkIreallyappreciatethat thehorseshoelagoonsfilledpermanently. withwater,youhavetohaveabalance betweenecologyandrecreation.Iwouldlike Hayleyandherfamilyarehelpingto toseethefutureofthewaterwaysbeing rehabilitatethispreciousplace.Ahealthy sharedproperlyamongstallparties.People populationofthreatenedfreshwatercatfish underestimatehowmuchwaterthere coͲexistwiththeecotourismventuresthat actuallyisinAustraliaandhowitcanbe sharedquiteeasily. thefamilyhaveintroduced. TahbilkLagoon.Photo:FernHames. 114 St - ‘e ate o xtrem Trout A fly The Sustainablef th Rivers Audit (SRA) is an ongoingely F ’s e r po (SalmotruttaͲbrowntrout,AQOncorhynchus life systematic assessmentiveof river health of 23 majoror’ s r mykissͲrainbowtrout) rivervalleysintheMurrayͲDarlingBasin. Environmentalindicators(themes)include hydrology,fishandmacroinvertebrates,whichare monitoredandwillhighlighttrendsovertime.7 TheGoulburnValleywassurveyedin2005.The GoulburnValleyfishcommunitywasratedasbeing in‘ExtremelyPoorCondition’. Alien species were 63% of the total biomass and 58% oftotalabundance.Thefishcommunityhadlost Themighty‘RedTag’fly.Photosource:MickHall. mostofitsnativespeciesrichnessandwas TheRedTagaboveisacopyoftheoriginalasfirst dominatedbyalienspecies,mainlytrout. Rainbowtrout.Photo:CharlieCarruthers. publishedinthe1888BritishAnglingFilesbyMichael TheakstonandeditedbyFrancisMWalbran. FirstknownastheWorcesterGem,itwasactually AretroutnativeanywhereinAustralia? Walbranwhoaddedthispatterntothisbook.Itwas No.TroutwereintroducedintoAustralian usedasaflyforgraylingratherthantrout. watersinthelate1800s.Browntroutarenative toEuropeandwesternAsia.Rainbowtroutare ItappearedinAustraliaveryearlyandbythe1920shad nativetoNorthAmerica. developedastrongreputationinVictoria. WhenwritingoftheGoulburnRiveratEildonfor Dotroutbreedoraretheyallstockedfish? TheHardy'sAnglersGuide1937,thefamousVictorian Both.Troutbreedverysuccessfullyinour flyfishermanG.RegLynestates: waterwaysandhaveestablishedselfͲsustaining Inearlymorningandevening,aboutamile populationsinmanyrivers.Theyarealsoheavily downstreamfromtheoutletthereisanexcellentdry stocked.Thereissignificantlevelofinvestment flyrise,thebestkillingpatternsbeingWickham's introutstockinginbothNSWandVictoria. TheGoulburnRiver,withsnagsandoverhanging Fancy,Coachman,RoyalCoachman,WhirlingDun, riparianvegetation–idealforfishwheretheycan CockyͲBondhuandRedTag. findit.Photo:JodiFrawley. TextcourtesyofMickHall. 115115
Source:JodiFrawley. Sourceofimage:NationalLibraryofAustraliaSource:LukePearce (OvensRValley1867Guerard PICS7723LOC1241ͲB). Source:ScottNichols. 116 TomCameron,withhisgrandsonArchie Ward.Tomhaslivedallofhislifearoundthe OvensRiverandlearnttofishfromhisDad inthe‘backyard’–theriver.Photo:JodiFrawley. LyellHoggandOllieEvanshavebeenmates andfishingbuddiesforover50years. Photo:JodiFrawley. GaryDawsrecallsthatitwasfishingforthe mightyMurraycodthatboughthisparents together.Andoneofthebiggestinfluences onhisfishingwasaMurraycodcalled ‘Arthur’. Photo: Jodi Frawley. KeithSnowdeniscarryingonafamily traditionoffishing.Hehasalsochangedand adaptedwhatandhowhefishedashe learntto‘thinklikeafish’.Photo:JodiFrawley. 117
JustbeforesunsettheycrosstheOvensandthen immediatelyhaltforthenight;havingtravelled aboutfifteenmiles.Theycaughtan abundanceoffishintheriver… 31stDecember1824;HumeandHovellexpeditionin1824–1825,fromBland(1831) 118 Introducing the river and its people TheOvensRiverrisesintheVictorianAlps FortheBangerangpeople,livingnearthe The arrival of the Europeans whereitislinkedtosignificantfreshwater riverswaslikelivingnearasupermarket. HamiltonHume3andWilliamHovell4crossed meadowsandmarshes.Itflowspast WhentheMurrayandtheOvensRiverswere theOvensRiverin1824,whileseekinga Harrietville,Bright,Myrtlefordand inflood,fishingbecameacommunalactivity. passagefromSydneytoSpencerGulf.Cattle WangarattawhereitisjoinedbytheKing Largegroupsofpeoplenettedfishand andsheepgrazingfollowed,especiallyalong RiveronitswaytomeettheMurraynearthe crayfish,spearedfishand,astheriverbegan thelowerreachesoftheriver.The topofLakeMulwala. tosubside,builtweirstotrapfishreturning 2 populationboomedaftergoldwasfoundat fromtheswampstothemainchannel. ThesethetraditionallandsoftheBangerang Beechworthin1852. peopleandtheirneighbourstheTaungurung ManydispossessedlocalAboriginalpeople TherushboughtAmericans,Englishand andYortaYortapeoples. movedtotheMalogaMissionfrom1874,or Chinesetolivealongtheriverbanks.Fishing latertotheCummeragunjaSettlement,both Baiame, Wiinya and Toonatpan wasanimportantwaytosupplementtheir ontheMurrayRiver.Thosewhoremained diets.However,thesandandgravel BangerangmenKevinAitkinsonandDavid workedandlivedalongtheOvensRiver. unsettled by the gold dredging began to fill EdwardsrelaytheBangerangcreationstory, the river’s deep waterholes. regularlyretoldwhilefishingontheriverbanks. The Chinese made market gardens along the LongagointheDreaming,theriverdidnot flowthroughBangerangCountry.Sothe rivertosupplyfruitandvegetablestothe peopleaskedBaiame(Creator)forhelp. goldfields.Theywerealsothefirsttogrow BaiamedecidedtosendhisWiinya(wife)to tobacco:‘chopchop’and‘stinky’weretwo helpthem.HeaskedhisWiinyatomakea formsofdarkleafedtobaccogrowninthe markwithherkunna(diggingstick)inthe OvensandKingValleys.Tobaccoremaineda earthtoTocumwalandEchuca.Afterhis keyindustryintheValleysoverthetwentieth WiinyahadcompletedhertaskBaiamesent century. theGreatSerpentToonatpanandaskedthe GreatSerpenttofollowthemarkhisWiinya Grazing,goldmining,tobaccoandplantation hadmadeintheearth.Baiamethencreated forestryallneededdifferenttypesof agreatstormwithmuchthunder,lightening workers,bringingnewpeoplewithnew andrain.Theriverwasfilledbringinglifeto AnunknownBangerangmanwithhiscanoeand needstotheriverandnewwaystocatch fishinggearfeaturedonanearlypostcard.Imagesource: thecountry.Thepeople,theanimalsandthe NorthEastHistoricalSocietyCollection,WangarattaLibrary. fish. plantsaroseoutofthecountry.1
119 Plantationforestryandassociatedmilling DuetoitsproximitytotheAlpineregionsthe wereimportantlocalindustriesandboth OvensRiverhasalwaysbeenapopularspot Accli usedtheriverforwater.Excesspoisonsand forvisitors.Troutwereintroducedearlyand mat Asthegoldrushdwindled,isati Victorian siltationhistoricallyassociatedwiththegold flyfishersalongwithotherfishers,hunters, governments were left withonthe challenge of Socie mining,tobaccoandplantationindustries bushwalkersand,morerecently,grey findingventuresthatwouldkeeppeopletieinsthe causeddevastationforfishandtheriverat nomadshaveallenjoyedthedistinctiveriver colony.Atthistime,itwascommontotransport differenttimes. corridorsofthesepicturesquevalleysand plantsandanimalstoandfromallthecontinents of the world for economic, medicinal, social and plains. scientificpurposes. TheOvensRiverisoneofthelastlargely Whatwereknownas‘AcclimatisationSocieties’ unregulatedriversintheMurrayDarling formedinlocalcommunitiesandbroughtmany Basinandisparticularlyimportantasa animalsandplants,includingfoxes,rabbits, referenceagainstwhichtoassessthestateof willowsandblackberries,toVictoria.Roach, tenchandAtlanticsalmonallarrivedthisway.5 otherlowlandriversintheregion.Thereare areaswheretheriparianvegetationhasbeen AnacclimatizationsocietyformedinBeechworth in the 1860s where a special reserve was set replacedbywillows,therehavebeen asidetoassistinthenaturalizationofplantsand significantwaterqualityissuesandthereare animals.6 fartoomanypestfish. ManyoftheseplantsandanimalshavehadlongͲ Earlyindustryhadsignificantimpactsontheriver. Imagesource:WangarattaLibrary. termadverseimpactsontheOvensRiver,and indeedacrosstheMurrayͲDarlingBasin.Plants, suchaswillows,havealteredtheriparianareas andhadaprofoundimpactofhowandwhen organicmatterentersthewaterways.Rabbits havecausedmassiveandirreversibleerosion andsoilloss,whichhascontributedtosediment loadsandthesiltationofwetlandsandrivers. Fish,likecarpandredfin,havedifferentbut significantimpactsonnativefishandmanaging theseimpacts–ifnotactuallycontrollingthe spreadandnumberofthefishthemselvesͲ remains a high priority in the rehabilitation of ApostcardshowingchildrenswimmingintheOvensRiverat therivers. Bright. Image source: Wangaratta Library. AsandybendontheOvens.Photo:FernHames.
120 Tom Cameron -110% freedom to use the river Tomwasbornin1937andhas Asakidwewouldrunarounddownthere, Tomexplainshowtheriverchannel,lagoons alwayslivedinthelowerOvens barelegandbarefooted.Nofearofit. andwetlandschange: Riverarea. Alwayshadadogwithus.Iwasabitofapot We grew up calling the backwaters ‘lagoons’ hunter.Ifishedforfood.Inthewaryearswe Igrewuponasmallfarm.Oneof but they are not a lagoon in the true sense. hadanenvioussupplyofMurraycodand afamilyofeight.Withnoneof They are old river bends that were cut off by redfin.MymatesandIhadabigcampdown theconveniencesthatpeople the river changing course and I can show you thereeveryChristmasforafewweeks.We suffertoday.Noelectricity,no a spot within half a mile of here where one had110%freedomtousetheriver. motorcar,onlyatelephoneanda dayit’sgoingtochangecourseagainbecause radio.Welivedofffarmproduce. it’scuttingheavilyintothebankandit’sgota MyfatherbeingofScottish naturalcoursetofollowafteritdoesthat.So descentandknowinghowtoobtainfishfrom theOvensRiverisamovingtarget.There’s theriver,wehadalotofMurraycod,alotof severalhundredacresinthere.IfItookyou wildducksandalotofrabbitsaswellas downtoPuzzleBendsandleftyouandyou goodcooking. didn’tfollowtheroadtrackout,youwould staythere.Everytimeyoucrossedaloop River for a backyard you’dthinkyouwerelookingatwhereyou’ve beenbefore.Itwasallsosimilar. Tom’sfatherwasbornintheareain1907and The shifting banks and watercourse meant that hetaughtTomandhisbrothershowtofish. ApostcardshowingasimplehutbytheOvensRiver, snagswereplentifulinTom’sfishingworld.And Myfathercouldtellyouwhereeveryfish atHorseShoeBend.Proximitytotheriverinthose lived in this river. He grew up on it. He could snagsmeantlotsofcod–aspecialtyofhis daysmeantaplentifulsupplyoffish,asTomandhis follow the fish all around the river and the father’sfishingprowess. familyknewfirstͲhand.Imagesource:WangarattaLibrary. lagoonsandthecreeks.Inaragingfloodhe Ididactuallyseethemcatch91and96 couldgodownthereandsuccessfullycatch poundcod–probablydozens,ifnothundreds codbecauseheknewtheriversowell. TheCameronslivedclosetowheretheOvens of50,60pounders.Itellthepeoplethatall LivingsoclosetotherivermeantthatTom RivermeetstheMurray.OverTom’slifethe thoseMurrayredgumsleaningoverintothe riveraren’tfromthefloods.It’swheremy couldtreatitlikeonebigbackyard.Hewould waterwayshaveshiftedandchanged,especially fatherusedtotetherhisbiggerfish!They gethomefromschoolandheadstraighttothe inresponsebothtosmallandlargefloodsand hadthemtetheredall‘roundtheriverand river. todroughts. thenhewouldgivethemtopeople.Avery generousman.
121 The impact of people Ripa rian SinceTomwasyoungthepopulationaround food veg the Ovens River has increased. He has seen the – an etat Riparianvegetationrefersd mtoothetrees,ioshrubs,n herbs, impactsofthisincreaseontheOvensRiverand re -f grassesandvinesfoundinthe‘riparianor fizone’,s the‘land inparticularwhatendsupintheriver. whichadjoins,directlyinfluences,orisinfluencedh bya bodyofwater’.Thismixofvegetationisimportant Firstofall,yougetrubbishwhichiswashed becauseit: downfromupstream.I’vechasedpeopleand hadsomeratherbigconfrontationsfor x isakeysourceoforganicmaterialfortheaquatic dumping garden prunings down there. system.Aquaticinvertebratesfeedondecaying materialandinturnprovidefoodforfishandother There’sabitofbriartherethat’scomedown invertebrates.Woodymaterialfallingintothewater fromupstream.Afewmilesupstreamthere Snagsareanaturalandvitalfeatureofahealthy providesfishwithshelterandformsasubstratefor areblackberries.Justallsortsofweeds. OvensRiver.ThisareaofthesoͲcalledNorthBeaches food,suchasalgae,andfordepositingeggs Maybesomeofthemarenative.Agreat isareservewheretherearelargeremnantriverred stash for vermin: foxes and other little x isadirectsourceoffoodforfish.Insectsfallingfrom gums,aswellasyoungtrees,andanatural‘snagging’ overhangingvegetationcanbeasignificantpartof animals–lotsofcats.It’spressureofpeople. ofthewaterwayisoccurring.Photo:ScottNichols. somefishspecies’dietduringthewarmermonths x providesshadewhichreducesdailyandseasonal extremesinwatertemperature x stabilisesriverbanks,helpingtoreducebankerosion x interceptsandslowssurfacerunoffandfilteringor takinguppollutantsandnutrients x contributestohabitatdiversity,includingwoody debris,rockledges,overhangingvegetationand undercutbanks. TheOvensRiverhasareasofgoodriparianvegetation. Forexample,theriparianzonedownstreamof Smallboatsareafeatureoffamilyfishing.Tomargues AMurraycodinamongstsnags,theplacewhere Wangarattaisrichinperennialnativegrassandherb it’snotthesethatareaproblemsomuchasthebigger Tom’sDadknewhewouldfindthesefish.Murraycod communitiesaroundbillabongsintheriverredgum boats.Biggerboats,hesays,andmorepeopleonthe usesnagsasterritorialmarks,ambushandspawning forestͲwoodland.Thisismorelikethenaturalstateof riverhavenotbeengoodforthebirdlifeinandaround sitesandasshelter.ThemajorityofMurraycodwill theriverthanotherareasupstreamwhicharemore theriver.Photosource:JohnDouglas. befoundwithin1mofasnag!Photo:LukePearce. affectedbyweeds,suchasblackberryandwillow,and bysoͲcalled‘riverimprovements’ofthepast.11
122 Howeverit’snotjustthenumberofpermanent O W residentsthat’sincreasing.Therearealsomany vens ater moretouristsandtravellersfromotherareas The Ovens RiverRi Improvement Trust was pl ve r I ants whobringtheirboatstotheOvenssotheycan establishedin1953.PremiermprThomasHollway argued for the River Improvementove Act 1948, enjoygoingfishing.Tomrecalls: m en t saying:Itisasadcommentaryonourcivilization Tru Upuntilabout1970s,early’80sIwouldtake thatsincetheadventofwhitesettlementourriversst thewifeandkidsdownintheboattohavea haveactuallydeteriorated.Thetrustsetabout lookatthebirdneststhatwereinevery removingobstaclesintheriverthatwerethought backwater.Onalittlesaplingthathadfallen toimpedeflowandcauseerosion.Thedecision downthatwasoutinthewater,orthetopof makersbelievedtheywererehabilitatingtherivers a tree that was in the water there’d be a byallowingthewatertoflowawayquicker,thus 10 nest,justbobbinginthewater,butnow protectingfarmersfromflood. they’reallgone.Inmyopinionit’snot Thismisunderstandingoftheroleoftimberdebris becauseofanyactionexcepttoomany (‘structure’)ashabitatforfishandotheranimals led to continual de snagging works within the peopleonthewater.Rowboatsdidn’tdo Ͳ Watershield,anativewaterplantthatisnowuncommon,in river.Asscientificandcommunityunderstanding anydamage.Smallboatsdidverylittle theTahbilkLagoon,GoulburnRiver.Photo:FernHames. ofriverenvironmentsandtheirwildlifeincreased, damage, a bigger boat makes waves. They There are many different types of water plants; some advocacymountedtoreversethesepolicies. don’t have to be very big to upset a birds ofwhichfloatonthesurface,whileothersare Many locals began to call the organisation the submergedandattachedtothegravel,mudorrockof nest. ‘Ovens River Destruction Trust’. The trust was theriverbed. disbandedin1997.ReͲsnaggingprogramsarenow improvinghabitatforfish. Waterplantsprovidehabitat,food,refuge,spawning andnurserysitesforfishandinvertebrates.Theyalso stabilisesediments,actasaphysicalfilterand influencephysicalandchemicalcomponentsofwater. Whiletherearemanynativewaterplants,thereare alsointroducedspeciessomeofwhichcancause problems,particularlywhenabundant. Whilehistoricalinformationaboutmanynativewater plantsislimited,thereappearstohavebeena significantdeclineintheabundanceofsomenative Ibis nests are typical of bird species that live and waterplantsinmanyinlandriversoftheBasin. breedinandaroundwetlandsandfloodplains. Photo:PeterTerrill.
123 Lyell Hogg and Ollie Evans – Myrtleford mates
ofthetime.Butit’sadifferentstyleoffishing Fishing mates intheOvens.Weusedthelightgearthere. Ollie,bornin1936,startedfishingwithLyell Mainly I fished for trout and used a five, six asayoungmanandtheyhavebeenfishing orsevenpoundline.Lightrod.Youwouldn’t companionseversince. thinkofusingsevenpoundlineinthe Murray. IwaslivingnextdoortoLyellin1958.So we’vebeenfishingtogetherafewyears.Asa matteroffact,Ididlearnalotoffhim– especiallyspinninginasmallcreekbecause hewasanexpertatit. LyellwasborninMerbien,westofMildura, OneofthethingsthatLyellandOlliealways in1929.Hehadolderbrothersandsisters, tookfishingwasahessiankeeperbag. lotsofauntsandunclesandawholebunch Hessianbagswereusedtopacksugar, ofcousinswholivedaroundthatpartofthe wheatandpotatoesindifferentpartsofthe Murray.ButLyellwastheonlyonewhowas MurrayͲDarlingBasin.Fishers,likeOllieand borninAustralia;everybodyelsemigrated Lyell,haveadaptedthemtouseaskeeper fromScotland. nets,cushionsforlongspellsontheriver, andastacklebags.Lyellexplainshowheand Getting to know the river Ollieusedthemtokeepwhattheycaught: LyellmovedtoMyrtlefordin1953tobe Wealwayshadaboutthreeofthem–abit closertohiswifePat’sfamily,workinginthe overhalfsugarbageach.You’dcatchafish, districtasacarpenter.Hehadtolearnto andputitinthebagafteryou’ddippeditin adapttoaverydifferentriverthanhewas thewaterandyouwouldhangitonyour usedtoinhischildhood. back.Youwerewadinginthewateranyway andwewouldputafewgumleavesin Upthere,intheMurray,weusedheavygear amongthefishandthey’dkeepallday.The most of the time and sometimes a hand line leavesmoreorlessjustkeptthemseparated. woundaroundourhands.Wecouldplantita Lyellwithsomeofhiscollectionoffishinggear, mileoutintheriver.Ifishedonmyownmost includinghishalfͲsugarbagusedtokeepthefishhe caught.Photo:JodiFrawley.
1860 1853 Rivertransport Adozensteamboatsworkingtheriveranditstributaries SSMaryAnnmakesfirsttripfromGoolwatoMoama 124 Poisons in the river Tw To Fromthe1960suntil2006,tobaccowasone o-s bac (GadopsisbispinosuspiͲnslippery,e slimy,greasy) co f ofthemaincropsgrownintheMyrtleford d b TobaccowasinitiallygrowninathermChinesemarket lac gardensofthegoldrush.Anexportimarketng emerged area.Ollieremembershowdangerous kfi sh whentobaccocroppingwasinterruptedduringthe poisonswerecommonlyusedintheearly AmericanCivilWar.By1929,tobaccocropstookup daysinthisindustryandtheeffectsthishad halfthecultivatedlandalongtheOvensRiver.The onthefish: postwareraaddedmanynewmigrants,mainlyItalian, tothetobaccofarmingmix. About1968,ItookthekidsovertheOvens RiverandIwasgoingtofishtheBuffaloCreek In1952aTobaccoResearchStationatMerriang employed extension officers to provide up to date andtheJunctionupatMaloney’sBridge.I Ͳ Ͳ informationaboutfertilizers,insecticidesand wentupahundredyards,andtherewasa 7 improvedvarieties. Inlinewithadviceofthetime, couple of dead fish and I thought ‘now that’s Image:GuntherSchmida. DDTandDieldrinwerecommonlyapplied,insome verystrange.’Iwentupabitfurtherandthere x Smalltomediumsizedfish,reaching35cmbut casesbyaerialspraying.Thesepoisonsdriftedinto wasalogacrossthecreekandIwenttostep usuallylessthan20cm riparianzonesandhadterribleconsequencesforfish overitandI’mnottellinglies,therewould and other animals in the river. As the impact of these x Pairoffine,white,softrayslocatedunderthe have been thirty or forty greasies (blackfish) poisons was better understood, agricultural practices throatandbodyhasveryfinescalesandthick changed.8 andtroutbackedupagainstthelogandthey mucouscoating weredead.Theysprayedforthetobaccowith By2006,duetochangingmarketdemands,tobacco x Nocturnalfishrestrictedtolarger,deeper,cool, theaeroplanes,andthatwashighupat wasreplacedbyothercrops. clearuplandormontanestreamswithabundant BuffaloCreek.Andaboutsevenmileofthat instreamcover–usuallybouldersandcobbles. creek was completely buggered because the Verysmallhomerangeofabout15metres poisongotin. x SpawninNovemberͲDecember,layingadhesive eggsinrockyareas.Malesguardandfantheeggs x Eataquaticinsectlarvaeandoccasionallyother fishandcrayfish x Threatsincludecoldwaterpollution,smothering ofeggsandspawningsitesbysediment,and predationbypestspecies,particularlyredfinand The river blackfish (Gadopsis marmoratus). This and trout thetwoͲspinedblackfisharebothfoundintheOvens AtobaccofarmatMyrtleford.Imagesource: x Listedas‘Vulnerable’intheACT River.Photo:GuntherSchmida. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ovens_River. 125 Communityawarenessandconcernhelpedto GaryDawsalsorememberstheeffectofthe changethesepractices.Improvedpestcontrol combinationofabigfirefollowedbya techniquesalsoreducedtheimpactstothe heavyrainevent: river. Ron Dawson, who lives downstream from Afterthe2006fires,therewasadownpour OllieandLyellatEverton,recallshowpeople upintheBucklandValleyandtheriverat makeaconnectionbetweenthechangesin Myrtlefordwaslikeliquidchocolate,itwould chemicaluseandthechangesinthefishery: justgo‘blop,blop’likeboilingmudpools. The interesting thing was, the first things to Anecdotallypeopleassociatetheimproved die were the trout and the carp. After a codfisherywiththedemiseofthetobacco while, you’d walk down to the edge of the industry.Oldtimersherewilltalkaboutbig gravel and there’d be a little run of very unexplainedfishkillsinyearspastandthey’ve clean water right against the edge there. And putthatdowntochemicalspillage.The Photo:AnthonyWilson. thelittleblackfishwouldactuallyhavethe tobaccoindustryhasnowcloseddownand In the Ovens River near Wangaratta snaggy habitat is topoftheirheadsoutofthewaterjustin whetherit’scoincidentalornotthecod,or stillpresentnaturally(above)andisbeingreinstated thatbitofcleanwater.Theshrimpwere nativefishery,hasimprovedinrecentyears. whereitwasonceremoved(below).Botholdand exactly the same. The birds were having a Sosomepeople,anecdotally,willbesaying newsnagsacttoprovideshelterandspawningsites ball! there’sgottobeaconnection.Whetherthere fornativefishlikeMurraycodandtroutcod,helping isornot,Idon’tknow. themtosurvive. Fire and water Fires,perhapssurprisingly,canbe detrimentaltoriverhealth.OllieandLyell haveseenthedamagethatcanfollowafire, particularlywhenthereisheavyrainafterit. Theyrecalledaspecificincidentwhenfish wereaffected: TheyhadacloudburstintheBuckland.And theriverwasdowntoholesandthefishdied The aftermath of a large fire can be catastrophic for becausetherewasthatmuchcharcoal waterways–andfish.Imagesource:MDBA. washedin.Theysuffocated. Photo:FernHames. 126 Gary Daws – Snorkeling for Arthur Garygrewupat Itusedtobeyou’dgetinaboat,you’dknow Gunbower,five whatwasunderneathyouwithoutasounder Fish because we used to swim in there. We’d tr kilometresfromthe ThemanycreeksthatrunintotheapOvenss Riverwereperfect mainstemoftheMurray knowthatacodlivedtherebecausewe fortraditionalAboriginalfishtraps.Thesewereoften would see him. It was the sort of thing you’d thatchedwithwattleandsetacrossarunningchannel, RiverbetweenCohuna doonahotdayandthenintheevening. catchingfishastheymoved. andTorrumbarry.His You’dgoandthrowalureinbecauseyou Fishers,bothAboriginalandnonͲAboriginal,alsousednets mother also grew up sawhimthatafternoon.Weusedtodoafair thatcouldbedraggedthroughthewiderpartsoftheriver. therebuthisfatherwas bitofthat.Itwasgoodfun. Aboriginalwomencontinuedtomakenetsfromreeds,but originallyfromBendigo. everyonealsousedthenewEuropeanmaterials.For Meet Arthur example,drumnetsweresometimesmadeofknittedmesh, ItwasfishingforthemightyMurraycodthat butcouldalsobemadewithwireandhessian.Thesenets broughthisparentstogether. Then,inthelate1960s,GarymetArthur. couldalsohavewingstodirectfishintothetrap. In1948,InspectorHowecaught1cod,5troutcod, Myfathermetmymotherbecauseheused ThefellowovertheroadandIspentfive toregularlygouptherefishing.Helivedin 5Macquarieperchand14redfinintheOvensRiver,even yearstryingtocatchoneparticularfishinthe though the conditions were not ideal for using a drum net.9 Eaglehawk,Bendigo,andfishedinthe pumphole.ThefishwascalledArthur.Five Shrimps,craysandyabbieswerecaughtwithsmallernets Loddon.Inhis20shewentfurtherafieldcod yearswetriedtocatchhim.Hewas98 calleddropnets. fishing.Gunbowerwastheplacetogo. poundanddidn’tliveinalotofwater. Aquatic ecologists have developed specialist nets, including DuringtheDepression,aftertwoorthree fykenetsandboxtraps,forthecollectionoffishfor daysfishing,heusedtoloadthecodupon BigcodlikeArthurweresomethingto researchpurposes. therunningboardsoftheoldcar.He’dstop behold. at all the pubs, like Dingley Inn, all the way They’rejustlikepigs.Youtakethemoutof through on the plains to Bendigo, selling cod. thewaterandputthemontheground, there’sjustnothingtosupporttheirguts,you Exploring the river cansitthemuprightbecausetheirbellyjust Inthe1960sGarymovedtoMyrtlefordand goesout.Theyjustlooklikeanold,fatpig. startedworkingatobbacoblock–rightnext totheOvensRiver.Hesetoutexploringthe river,onfootandinaboat. Therearerulesaboutthetypesandsizeofnetsthatcanbeused whichvaryfromstatetostate.Photosource: http://new.dpi.vic.gov.au/fisheries/aboutͲfisheries/legislationͲandͲ regulation/illegalͲfishing/illegalͲfishingͲnetsͲdestroyed. 127 ButArthurwasbetterthanthepairofthem. Seeing the river like a fish Th You’d be there in the boat, dragging an ink ThisgotGarythinking: like a aeroplanespinner,thencamefloppies,so Wheresomeofusseemess, ffishishsee…protectionand everybodyhadfloppies,theywereaboutthe Beforethat,theonlysnorkellingI’dever refuge.Inthephotobelowwoodydebriswillprovide onlylurethatyouused.You’dgethimonthe donewaslookingforgold.I’dneverthought protectionfrompredatorswhenwaterlevelsrise,as will the scour hole that forms around it. lineandhegrabbedthisthingandthere’dbe tolookoutforfish.It’samazinghowclose justnothingleftofit. youcangettothem. Arthurwasfoiledbyadifferentsortof SoGarystartedtoexploreunderneaththe fisher. river,addingthisknowledgetowhathe knewfromwalkingaround,goingswimming Some young blokes from Melbourne came up andbeingoutonhisboat. spearfishing.Theyhadallthegear.We didn’tknowtheywerethereuntilit You’dsortofclimbdownthroughthe happened.Arthurendedupgettingspeared branchesofasnag.Itwasonlyabout10or butitwasn’tagoodthingbecausehewasa 12footofwater.Itwassittingrightonthe bitofachallengetous. bottomandthelightwasdappledandnowI knowwhyMurraycodhavegotthatpattern Photo:FernHames. onthem.Hewasonlyasmallfish,buthe Whereweseebeautifulreflectionsonthedark wasimpossibletosee,‘tilhiseyesmoved. water,fishwillsenselowdissolvedoxygenlevels Marvellouscamouflage. andwilltrytoavoidtheseareas. Garystillfishesforafeedwheneverhecan, butnowhehasadifferentoutlook,partly thankstoArthur. Idon’tthinkI’devertakeafishoutofthe waterthatwasmorethan20poundnow.
No,notArthur,butanylargeMurraycodisanaweͲ inspiringfish,especiallycloseup.Photo:GuntherSchmida. Photo:ScottNichols. 128 Keith Snowden – Thinking like a fish KeithSnowdenwasbornin Iwasouttherefishingaway,usingahog It’spossiblethatwhatKeithhadlanded,and 1948andgrewuponthe backwhichisarotatingbladespinnerwith hisPahadeagerlyeaten,wasaMacquarie OvensRiverjustupstream redwoolbehinditandallofasudden, perch. fromWangaratta.Keith’s betweentwoholes,wherethewaterruns a bit quickly it went ‘bang’, took off and I fatherandsonareboth thought‘Jeez,Igotabigcod’.Igotitout builderslikehim,butthe anddidn’tknowwhatitwas.Itwouldhave fishing gene goes back at least beenfourorfivepound.Iwassoproud. onemoregeneration. Somethingdifferent.Itookitstraightupto grandadwhobythatstagewasbedridden. What about a fish? Hisgrandfather,whoalwayscalledhim AMacquarieperch–possiblywhatKeithcaughtasa Asayoungsterhewouldfishwithhis ‘Doc’,madeoutthathewasdisappointed youngster.Photo:LukePearce. grandfatherontheriverbanksrightnearthe nottogetaredfin. house. Butthingswerenotastheyseemed. I’dgoupandseePaͲhewasaGallipoli He said ‘oh look, don’t worry about that veteranandhe’dsay‘whataboutafish?’I’d Doc’, leave it here, I’ll get out of bed and beacrossthereprobablyanhour,andcome cut it up for the cats’ I said ‘Okay Pa, backwithabagfullofredfin.Wewere sorry I didn’t get you a redfin’ but I alwayssupplyingfishtoeveryone.Therewas thought this would have been alright to anotherhouseuptheroad,wheredad’s eat.’ So I left it there and went home. I brother’sgotanacreoflandoffthefarmas described it to my father, and he shot up well,sodadwouldtakefishupthere. theroadintheute.Anyway,hewalked Heenjoyedmanyfishingexcursionswithhis intothebedroomandmygrandadwas family,includinghismum,dad,unclesand justfinishingthetailpartofthefish! grandmother.Buthehasonetreasured Keithdoesn’tknowwhatsortoffishitwas MembersoftheSnowdenfamilywiththeircatch. memoryofhisgrandfather,fromwhenhe thathehadcaught,buthethoughtitlooked Photosource:KeithSnowden. wastwelveyearsold. likeanestuaryperch. 129 Snakes – a fisher’s friend Learning to think like a fish A Keithmayhaveinheritedhisgrandfather’s snake Keithlearntfromhisdadabouthowtoget senseofmischiefaswellashisloveoffishing. It appears that even gearlyo European use of the Ovens thebestresultswhenhewasoutinother es fis Helikedtokeephisgoodfishingspotsfrom Riverhadquitedramaticimpactshinong local…fish partsoftheOvensRiver. gettingtoowellknown.SoKeithandhismates populations– andunexpectedbenefitsforsomelocal snakes. Wedidn’tjustgointothewaterandfish.As tookadvantageofthelocalabundanceof myDadwouldsay‘thinklikeafish,and A newspaper report of 1871 describes large numbers snakes.TheswampylandaroundwhereKeith wherewouldyouwanttostay ofsmallandlargefishbeingincidentallycapturedby livedisahavenforlittlefrogswhentherain predominantlyintheriver’.Wewouldread awaterͲwheeldrivenbucketirrigationsystem: comes,butthisattractsthevenomoustigerand thewater.Theriverwasalwayschanging. brownsnakes.Keithusedmostpeople’s Wehaveheardagooddeal…oftheextraordinary Wewouldlookforanareawherewethought wariness of these creatures to his advantage: numberoffishtakenoutoftheOvensRiverbythe fishwouldbelookingforaneasyfeed.We baskets of Mr Henley's wheel … which he uses for knewtheyweregoingtogetaneasyfeedin We spread the rumours around Wangaratta liftingwaterforirrigation.…Thebucketsare theswiftcurrent.Orwewouldlookforwhere to all the fishermen: ‘You can’t go fishing ratherdeepandasthefishendeavourtomake codwouldlayintheeddyoftheriver,in downthere,there’stoomanysnakes’. theirwayuptherivertheygetintothemasthey pass, evidently to escape the force of the down otherwordsinthebackwaterorstill.Itwas Workedforyears. currentandarethusliftedandemptiedwiththe alwaysverypredictablewheretogetacod. water into the [river]. Large and small fish keep Reflectingonthesortsoffishthathehas constantlyturningup,andofallkinds,…within halfanhoursometwodozenfish,chieflybream caughtoverhislifetime,Keithremembers [silverperch],weighingfromafewouncesto howheadaptedhisfishingdependingon threeandfourpoundseach.Thesmallonesareof whatwasabundantatdifferenttimes.He coursereturnedtotheriver,but…atleasta rememberswhattheoldtimerstoldhim hundredweight of saleable fish in 24 hours is the aboutthefishing‘intheirday’: ruleandnottheexception. (TheArgus(Melbourne,Vic.),Wednesday25January1871) WhenIwasreallyyoung,beforeIstarted reallyfishing,theriverswerefullofcatfish, Thelargefishwerekeptinaenclosurewithflowing yellowbelly,cod,andsilverperch.Idon’t waterand‘caught’forsalewheneverneeded!The knowaboutMacquarieperch.Theoldtimers article goes on to note that an observant tiger snake ofthaterasaytherewasnoproblemto hadalsoidentifiedthereadysourceofabundant catchyourselfafeed. Blacksnakesarealsofrequenthuntersaround smallfishandregularlyfishedforamealatthesite wetlandsandriverbanks.Photo:AlanLugg. wherethesmallfishwerereleasedfromthe buckets. 130 Whenredfinarrived,itchangedwhatfish wereavailable.Keithadapted,thenchanged Sta againwhentheredfinpopulationdropped. te o TheSustainablef Riversthe Audit(SRA)isanongoing Thenitwentthroughaperiodwhenthe systematicassessmentofrivrivere healthof23major river valleys in the Murray Darlingr – Basin. redfintookoverandtheyjustcleanedallthe Ͳ ‘po Environmentalindicators(themes)includeor’ nativefishtotallyout–theyhadtheriverto hydrology,fishandmacroinvertebrates,whichare themselves. Then in my lifetime, we went 12 monitoredandwillhighlighttrendsovertime. throughanabundanceofredfintonearly TheOvensValleyfishcommunitywassurveyedin zero.Thecarpcameintothesystemandthey 2007.TheOvensValleyfishcommunityand cleaned the redfin out. That’s when I started EcosystemHealthwerebothconsideredtobein changingmyfishingmethodstogoaftercod. PoorCondition.Only59%ofpredictednative Soitwassortofathingyoudid.Switching specieswerecaught;thesewereonlyhalfofthe fromonetotheother.WhatI’venoticednow totalcatchandaquarterofthebiomass.The isthattheKingSystemandtheOvensSystem communityhadlostmuchofitsnativespecies areabundantwithcodandtroutcod.There richnessandalienfishwereabundant. arestillbigfishinthesystem,butIdon’t Severalnativespecieswererecordedhowever, knowwhetherthereareasmanyasthere dominatedbythetwoblackfishspecies,carp usedtobe.Whethertheirdyingout gudgeons,flatͲheadedgudgeon,Australiansmelt, happenedbyaccidentorbynature,Idon’t troutcodandMurraycod.Oftheintroduced know. species,Easterngambusiaweresometimes Areaslikethis,withgoodriparianvegetation abundantandthereweremoderatenumbersof overhangingtheriverandonlyafewintroduced carp,redfinandthetwotroutspecies. willowscanstillbefoundalongtheOvensRiver. Photo:FernHames.
CatchingredfinwasalsoafeatureofJohnDouglas’s childhoodfishingexperienceinthispartoftheBasin. Australiansmelt,oneofthemorecommonnativefishin John(front)picturedherewithhisbrotherRay. theOvensRiver.Photo:NSWDPI. Photosource:JohnDouglas. 131 Making connections GregSharp,isaFisheriesOfficerbasedin Fishing – an essential part of life Wodongaandhisdutiestakehimtomany northernVictorianrivers.Heisapassionate KeithSnowdenenjoyshisbusyandsociallife fisherandcanseethevalueofcommunity inWangaratta,butthereisnothingheloves involvementinhelpingtherivers. morethanthechancetogofishing. Therearesomepeoplewhowishtheywouldn’t IliketogotoRotaryonaMondaynight.I takethewillowsoutbecausetheybelievethat enjoythat,butIgetmoreenjoymentbeing erosionisaresultofthewillowremoval.But onariversystemwithamate,ormyson,or peoplearedefinitelymoreconsciousoffish bymyself,itdoesn’tmatter.Whenyou’reat habitatandstreamsidehabitat.There’sanarea homethephone’sgoingintheofficeoryour calledTatongjustaboveBenalla.Intheearly mobilephone’sgoingforwork.It’sjustthe 1990sIwasinvolvedwiththisfishingclub peace. LyellHoggwithhisfishinggear.Photo:JodiFrawley. throughsomefundingforplantingofvegetation Recreationalfishingisnotjustapartoflife Aloveoffishingcanbuildadeepunderstandingofa andstockexclusiononHollandsCreekand ontheweekendsorholidaysforGaryDaws. RyansCreek.Hereananglingclubcouldseethe riveranditsfish–aswellasprovideanenjoyment Athisfarm,rightontheOvensat benefitofhavinggoodvegetationalongthe andsatisfactionthanspansdecades. Myrtleford,Garyfoundawaytomakeita sidesofthestream. partofdailylife. AdamPascoe,GaryDaws’sonͲinͲlaw,isa Whenwewereworkingallthetimefishingwas passionateadvocateforcatchandrelease myrelaxation.Ididn’tevenlikepeoplecoming fishing. His interest in both fishing and the withme.I’dgodowntheriverwithtwoorthree environmentledtobeinginvolvedinriparian stubbiesandsitonalog,justcatchfishand rehabilitationactivitiesalongtheOvensRiver thinkaboutthings.Itwasjusthavingaquiet anditstributaries. timeattheendoftheday.Itwasgood. IbecameinvolvedwiththeCMAanddoing SometimesIbroughtfishhome,sometimesI worksdownheretoreplantnativespecies wouldn’tworryaboutit.IfIthoughtweneeded aroundtheplaceandputtinglogsbackinthe afeedI’dbringhomeafishbutmostofthem river.Idon’tknowifit’ssomuchfishing,butit’s wentbackintheriver,whichisgood.I’mquite happyforthepuristsnevertotakeafishand justanenjoymentoftheenvironmentand JohnDouglasasayoungsterfishingonthelower onlyeverusealure.Goodlucktothem.Iliketo thingslikeplatypusandbirdsandthesugar Darling.Photosource:JohnDouglas. gliders. catchafishtoeat. 132 Visions for the Ovens Thefishingpeoplewhocontributedtothis theyseemtobemanageable.Foxes,cats, and pigs, I think, have made a massive projecthavealltalkedabouttheirhopesfor differencetoourecology.Andtothe thefutureoftheriver.Manyfelttheyhad availabilityofotherspecies.Ifyoutake seensomeimprovementsbutmostdon't certainspeciesout,otherspeciesdominate.I feeltheriverisashealthyyetastheywould believethewholeecologyisrelated. liketoseeit.Eachofthesefisherssuggested waystohelptheriverandinturnhelp RonDawsonisanenvironmentalistanda providehealthyhabitatsforfish. fisher.Foranumberofyearsheservedasa Changes in how we look at ministerialappointeeonthemanagement boardthatreplacedtheOvensRiver things ImprovementTrust.Overtheyearshehas OneofthebiggestchangesthatLyellHogg Agrowingunderstandingandcelebrationofnativefish,like seenageneralchangeinattitudethathe and Ollie Evans have seen is in the way that Murraycod,arecontributingtochangingattitudestowards believeswillhelpinthefuture. fishandrivers–andwhattheyneedtobehealthy.The theyoungergenerationfish.Whereonce photoabovewastakenattheYortaYortayoutheventat Therehasbeenahellofachangenowin Shepparton weir during Native Fish Awareness Week fisherswouldtakeeverythingthatthey termsofenvironmentalissuespeopleare caught, there has been an intergenerational activitiesin2010.Photo:JodiFrawley. awareof:issueslikefishhabitat.It’svery changethatwillbegoodforthefutureof differentreally.I’dlovetoseethedemiseof theOvensRiver.Olliesays: PatLarkin,wholivesnearWangarattaand Europeancarp.Ithinkthey’vereallychanged theOvensRiversays: theriverandenvironment.Theirbiomassin Mygrandsondoescatchandreleasefishing. thewaterwaysisjusthorrendousreally.I’d Ifhegetsacod,he’llkeepthefirstone.We OnethingIdon’tbelievewe’vepaidenough justliketoseethecontinuedimprovementin wentoutonemorningontheOvensRivera attentiontoistheintroducedpredatorsand waterqualityandincreaseinbreedingof coupleofyearsagoandhegotfiveandhe theintroducedplantsthatarepestsinour nativefish,aswellasthepromotionofcatch keptone. aquaticsystems.Weusedtoseealotof swansnestingaroundtheedgeofLake andrelease. Oneofthechangesthatpeoplewouldlike Mokoan.Veryfewactuallyhatchedbecause toseefortheriversisthemanagementof foxesweregettingtheeggs,ifnotthe introducedspecies–andnotjustthosein parent.Wealsohavepigs,notfarfromhere. theriver. Ifyoushow‘emwatertheywillcatchfish. ThedeerpredateonplantsIsuppose,but 133133 Upper
Source:LukeJohnston. Source:CharlieCarruthers. Source:NationalLibraryofAustralia (nla.picͲvn4649970Ͳv). Source:ScottNichols. 134
BryanPratt–ascientistand passionateanglerwhohasfished theMurrumbidgeeforover40 years.Histwotackleshopsin Canberragivehimtheopportunity totalkwithotheranglersaboutthe stateoftheriver.Photosource:Bryan Pratt. DarrenRosohasbeenlucky enoughtogethisfeetwetinthe Murrumbidgeewithhisjob.By doingsohehasseenmanychanges –bothgoodandbad.Photosource: DarrenRoso. DickandGayLawler(andtheirdog Kevin)enjoy‘Glanroe’–theold sheperd’shuttheyhavelovingly restoredonthebanksofthe Murrumbidgee.Photo:LukeJohnston. AdrianBrownisaNgunnawalman andarangerwithACTParksand ConservationService.Adrianwants tohonourhisancestorsbycaring fortheriverandteachingothersto dothesame.Photosource: ReconciliationNews,Issue14,April2009. 135 Everybodywhocanhurlalineintoariverhascaughttrout,cod,bream, perch,andgadopsis[blackfish]intheMurrumbidgee,butmostdoitwith ahookbaitedwithwhitegrub,worm,shrimp,frog,andotherfoods.…. TheSydneyMorningHerald,1December1904,page11 136 Introducing the river and its people TheUpperMurrumbidgeecutsitsway Neighbouringlanguagegroups,Wiradjuri, Asrailarrived,sotoodidthefirstnaturalists throughtheSnowyMountainsinsouthͲ Walgalu,Ngarigo,Yuin,Jaimatangand andotherearlyscientificworkers.3 eastern New South Wales, snaking its way Gundungurra, met at Kamberri over the BythetimeofFederation,theriverandfish south, then turning north before dropping summer season. The Ngunnawal guided male habitathadchanged.JohnGalebemoaned into the lowland and heading west to join the initiates on the journey to ceremony places thestateoftheriverin1903. MurraydownstreamofSwanHill. throughNgarigocountryandalonga pathwayoftheMurrumbidgee.1 WhatacontrastfishingintheMurrumbidgee TheUpper‘Bidgeefloodplainisonlyacouple presentstothedaysofauldlangsyne!Some ofhundredmetreswide,astarkcontrastto ofusoldresidentscanlookbacktotheperiod thekilometresͲwidefloodplainsinother whenanevening’sfishinginthebigriverwas partsoftheMurrayͲDarlingBasin.Whenthe invariablyrewardedwithahaulofheavyfish, floodscome,theycomeupquicklyandroar varyinginsizefrom7lbto20lborevenmore, throughthenarrowvalleys. whoseaggregateweightwasenoughfora packͲhorsetocarry.2 Thesearethetraditionallandsofthe NgunnawalandNgarigopeoples.
Aboriginal traditions Forover20000yearstheAboriginalpeople Kambah Pool. Photo: Scott Nichols. havelivedaroundtheMurrumbidgeeRiver. TheNgunnawalpeoplelivedmostlyinthe Canberraarea,whiletheNgarigolived furtherupstreamonthelowlandplains.The The arrival of the Europeans local rivers were used for ceremony and In1824thefirstsquattersarrivedinthe song, hunting and fishing by all Aboriginal Canberraarea,followedbyotherswho people. favouredlandthatadjoinedthemanyrivers Childrenplayinginthe‘Bidgee,Tuggeranong,circa 2 TheCanberraareawasanimportantmeeting andstreamsinthearea. Miningforgoldand 1910.Photocopyoforiginal:NationalLibraryofAustralia–Mrs placeforAboriginalpeoplestravellingtothe tinboughtnewpeoplewhocampedalong W.A.S.Dunlop’sphotographalbumPIC_8441_46_LOC_Album316A. mountainsforinitiationceremonies. theriver.
137 ManymorepeoplecameasAustralia’s Inthepostwarperiodmanysouthern capitalwasbuiltbetweentheQueanbeyan Europeanmigrantsarrivedtoliveandwork Graz andMurrumbidgeeRivers.Thedevelopment intheareaandontheSnowyscheme. ing t ofCanberrachangedthearea,particularlyby Inevitablypressuregrewonexistingriver Whilestockmenthoughthe thehighcountry was perfect for running cattlerive and horses, demandingfarmorewaterthanbeforefor resources.Fishingforpleasureovertook r p squattersinthemidͲrangeplainsoflathei new building, domestic and public use. The fishing for food and has become a vital part ns Murrumbidgeepreferredsheep. artificialLakeBurleyGriffinwascreated, ofrecreationalactivitiesalongthe Earlygrazingrunswerelargeandsheep changingthelookandfeeloftheareaand Murrumbidgeecorridor. movedacrosstheriverplainsinthecareof howpeopleusedit. shepherds.Rudimentarystonehutswere ButLakeBurleyGriffinwasn’ttheonly builtoverthe1840sand1850stohousethe shepherdsastheymovedthesheeparound. change made to the Murrumbidgee’s flow. Thesehutswerebuiltfromlocalstoneand Once,riverlevelswouldrisewiththespring rarelyhadmorethantworooms.They snowmeltbeforefallingslowlyoverthe includedastonehearth,aplaceforwood summer.Todaythesnowmeltiscollectedin firesthatprovidedwarmthandheatfor TantangaraDambeforebeingreturnedto cooking.Ontheplains,shepherdslivedoff birdsandsmallmammalsbutsomehuts the ‘Bidgee below Burrinjuck Dam. werebuiltalongtheriver,whichmeantthey TantangaraDam,completedin1960aspart couldfeastonfish,musselsandMurray oftheSnowyMountainsHydroElectric crays. Scheme,nowdiverts99.6%oftheheadwater Thesheepmeantmorenutrientswere flows. washedintothemountainstreams.The Bythe1930s,grazingcountryhadbeenclearedrighttothe woodfires,soessentialfortheshepherds, This has impacted on regular flow, flood water’sedge.Photosource:HelenShimitras. contributedtothedeforestationofthe levelsandfloodfrequency,changingboth sparsely wooded high country. thehabitatfornativefish,andopportunities Theincreasinguseoftheriver,forboth forthemtobreed.Theriverbetweenthese livestockandthepeoplewholookedafter damsisashadowofitsformerself. them,meanttheNgunnawalandNgarigo facedfiercecompetitionforriverresources.3
138 Dick & Gay Lawler - ‘Glanroe’ on the bend
Whenwefinishedfishingthebestpartofthe day began. We would swim the horses and eitherridetheminthewaterorhangonto Trout theirtailsandbepulledalong. FA BrownTrout(Salmotrutta),QRainbows Trout LouisMargules,bornafewyearsearlierin (Oncorhynchusmykiss) 1931, lived nearby at Cotter and as a child fishedwithHerbWilliamson.Herbwasthe localbusdriver,whoseambitionwasto catchmorefishthanhecouldgiveawaytoeat. TogethertheyexploredthenearbyCotter DickLawler’schildhoodhomewas‘Hilldyke’, River. agrazingpropertysevenkilometresfrom Michelago.HewasborninSydneyin1939, YouwouldfishallthepartsoftheCotter.We buthaslivedintheMurrumbidgeecorridor hadnames:DeadMan’shole,PerchStrait, the Blue Hole, the Toe Wall, the Gauge. They Rainbowtrout.Photo:CharlieCarruthers. allhislife,asdidhisparentsand wereallplaceswhereyouwouldsayyou Wherearetroutfoundnow? grandparents. weregoingfishing.Iffourofyouwent Troutarenowwidelydistributedacrosscooler Asyoungboys,Dickandhisbrothersloved fishing,itwasunheardoftocomebackwith uplandstreamswithintheMurrayͲDarlingBasin, particularlyNSW,ACTandVictoria. goingtotheriver. lessthantwentytroutandfiveorsixverybig blackperch.11 Whyaretroutaproblem? Asachildinthe1940souronlyaccesstothe Predationofnativefishbytrouthascaused riverwasonhorseback.Ittookquiteabitof Trout but no big fish significantimpactsonsomenativegalaxiasand pesteringmyDadtogetusthere.Wehadto issuspectedforothernativespecies. saddlethehorses,digworms,preparefishing TheMurrumbidgeeRiverwasstockedwith gearandgetmumtomakethesandwiches. troutfromthe1880s.BythetimethatDick Wealwaysfishedthesamehole,about30 was fishing as a youngster, the native fish metresfromShallowcrossing. wereonthewane. TheLawlerchildrenwouldfishalldayand Wealwayscaughtfish:rainbowandbrown onlythenwouldtheybeallowedintothe troutandtheoccasionalMacquarieperchor water. cod. No big fish.
139 AfterDickmarriedGay,theytookup100 Floods and carp acresof‘Hilldyke’,repletewiththeruinsof M Thefloodsof1991boughtnewpestsright an an1840sshepherdshut.In1983they agin toDickandGay’sfrontdoor. g restoredthestonebuildingandbuilta Stockwithunmanagedaccesssttoowaterwaysc can doalotofdamagetofishhabitat.Increasingly,k cottage garden to match the building. In1991,thecarpappearedonthelawnafter graziersrecognisethatmanagingaccessbenefits aflood.Theymigratedbyusingtheshallow boththeirstockandtheriver.Someofthe wateraroundtheedges.Theywon’tgoout recommendationsforbeingmorefishͲfriendly inthemiddleifthere’saneasywayaround. inthegrazingareasaroundthe‘Bidgeeinclude:9 Weusedtocatchasmanytroutaswe wantedtoupuntil1991.Butthey’vedropped x Maintaingroundcover:thislayerofgrasses, other plants and plant litter slows rainfall run offalotsincethecarphavecomein. Ͳ off,helpsretainsoilmoisture,protectsthe DarrenRosohaswatchedthechangesin soilfromtheimpactsofrainandcaptures thecarppopulationsincehearrivedinthe nutrientsbeforetheycanreachwaterways areain1988. x Feedthepasture,notthecreek:bymanaging soil fertility and only applying the nutrients Iwashereduringthatunfortunatestage thatareneededinappropriateamounts, whentheyinvaded.Theywereuptoabout nutrientsarenotappliedexcessively–saving ‘Glanroe’holdsmanyhappymemoriesoffishingin CasuarinaSandswhenIturnedup.Andinmy the‘BidgeeforDickandGay.Photo:ScottNichols. moneyandminimisingdamagetowaterways time they’ve completed their invasion of all suitablehabitatintheACT,apartfrom x Protecttheriparianzone:fencingoffthe DickandGayliveinCanberranow,but perhapsthelowerCotter.It’sbeenpretty waterwayandestablishingnativetree,shrubs escape to their weekender, ‘Glanroe’, to and grasses slows run off, protects tragic.I’vewatchedsilverperchdecline, Ͳ riverbanks,minimiseserosionandcaptures enjoythepeaceandquietofthe basicallybecauseofthat.AlthoughMurray nutrients Murrumbidgeecorridor.Theybothhave codandtroutcodjustlovecarp.Oftentimes fondmemoriesoftheearlydaysatthehut. you’llcatchacodandasyou’reremovingthe x EstablishoffͲstreamwaterpoints:cleaner lure, you’re sort of looking down the throat waterforstockandreducedaccesstothe Weusedtofishandweusedtocatchtrout. and there’s a carp’s tail just beyond the water’sedge,greatlyreducingdamageto Weknewwewouldhaveamealoftrout oesophagus. riverbanks,puggingandtheadditionof everyweekendwhenwecameout,without nutrientstothewater fail.Andweusedtocatchenoughtosmoke themandgivethemawayasChristmas presentstofriends.
140 Bryan Pratt – the best of both worlds Round and forked tails ThereweretwoBryanPratts bornin1937.Oneisanardent Bringingthesetwoelementstogether, scientistandtheotherisa meantgettingoutandtalkingtoother passionateangler.The fishersintheMurrumbidgeecorridor. scientistcametoCanberrain Ifoundenougholdcockiesandanglerswho G 1965toworkforthe knewaboutperchbeingintheriverbackin olde Macquaria ambiguan (callop,p yellowbelly, AustralianNationalUniversity; the1800sand1900s,andIkeptsayingwhat erch Murrayperch,whiteperch) andtheanglerfoundthe sortofperch?Didtheyhaveaforkedtail meccaofstreams,rivers,lakesanddamsfor (silverperch)oraroundtail(Macquariesor weekendfishingpilgrimages. golden)?Andenoughofthemremembered theroundtailtomakemebelievethat Angler and scientist goldenperchusedtoalsooccupythisupper sectionoftheMurrumbidgeeRiver.And Bryanmovedfromuniversityresearchinto curiouslyenoughinaboutthe1910to1920 publicsectorconservationworkinthe1970s thereportsofwhatlookedtobegolden wherehefoundthatthetwoaspectsofhis perchstopped.Ireasonedthatwhat happened in about 1910, the golden perch M lifehadimportantcrossovers. acqu populationandthesilverperchpopulation Macquariaaustralasicaar(macca,ie mountainperch, Thebasicthrustofallthisisifyoucanfind pe migrateddownstreamtowarmerwaters. blackbream,Murraybream,whitercheye,blackfish) anglersthataregoodscientistsorscientists Andwhentheydecidedtocomeback whoaregoodanglers,orgetapopulationof upstreamintheSpringofabout1911Ͳ12,low bothandgetthemtogether,youcanlearn andbehold,somethingwasintheirway, anamazingamountofinformationaboutthe BurrinjuckDamwhichwasfinishedin1911. thingsthatarerightunderournoses.We don’tnecessarilyrecognisetheimportance WhilegoldenperchandMacquarieperch untilsomeoneputsitaltogether.Astute, are still found in the Upper ‘Bidgee, silver observant, consistent anglers can provide a perchdiddeclineandhavediedoutabove Sil lotofbasicinformationwithoutrealisingjust BurrinjuckDam. ver p howimportantitistodothat. Bidyanusbidyanus(grunter,erchblackbream, silverbream,bidyan)
1860 1853 Rivertransport Adozensteamboatsworkingtheriveranditstributaries SSMaryAnnmakesfirsttripfromGoolwatoMoama 141 Thinking about stocking Desnagging - losing fish habitat OneofthemajorchangesBryanhasseen Inthetwentiethcenturythroughoutthe overhislifetimeistheshiftinimportanceof Murrumbidgeedesnaggingworkswere introducedandnativefish. undertakentocreateclean,clearchannels. Asbothascientistandanangler,Bryan Theinterestingthingisthatformany,many remembershowheadvocatedforareverse yearswegaveprecedencetotheimported of this policy. species.Troutforexample;theywerethe holygrail.Irememberhavingaconversation Ikeptprotestingtothepeopleinvolvedthat withadirectorofanAustralianstatefishing thechannelizationofAustralianrivers, authorityaboutBurrinjuckReservoir.He makingthemasstraightaspossible, transferring water from the upper reaches of said,‘Bryan,what’sthepoint.They’reonly Trouthavelongbeenafeatureoffishinginthe nativefish.Whatareyouworriedabout.’ ‘Bidgee.Thisgroupandtheircatchwere PointAtoPointBatthedownstreamend, wasthequickestwaytogetridofthewater. Slowly this is changing. Native fish have photographedin1935.Photosource:NationalLibraryof Australia(nla.picͲvn4649970Ͳv). Theydidthatbyremovingobstacles, becomepopularsportingfishintheirown removingthesnags.Andremovedsignificant right–andtheimpactsofintroducedfishon habitatfortheverysortsoffishwethought theriversarenowpartoftheagendaof wemightbeprotecting.Inthosedaysthe rivermanagement. communitydidn’tassignvaluetoparticular fishspecies. Mypointisthattroutareasuperbsporting fishintheirplace.Inotherplacesthey Homing in on the snags representadangertootherspeciesandwe Changing the mindset of policy makers shouldhaveaharderthinkaboutwhether westocktheminthoseareas.It’sheresyto meantshowingtheimportanceoftheways fisherswhenyousay‘youshouldn’tbe fishersreadtheriverandunderstandthe stockingtrout’,butweshouldthinkabout habitatofnativefish. endangeredfrogandfishspeciesandother Simplethingslikeresnaggingariverwhich thingstoo.It’simportantthatbeforewego wasabsoluteheresyyearsago.Weknew aheadandstockweneedtothinkmore thatsnagswereimportantbecausewhen deeplyaboutwhatwewouldhavedonein Nowmorefishersrecognisethethrillofferedbyour yougofishingforMurraycod,youignore thepast.Wenowknowmoreaboutthe nativefish.RecentsurveysfoundMurraycodgreater significantsectionsoftheriverandhomein than 100cm in the ACT part of the UMDR. Photo source: implications. onthesnags.That’swherethefishare. KevinClark. 142 Commonsensenowsaysinretrospectwe shouldbeputtingmoresnagsintheriver.If you’vegotsomethingthatcanbebredor maintainedinthewildnaturallyor restocked,theydoformaninterestingand valuablesocialresource.Andalsotheymight haveallsortsofotherfollowoneffectsthat wedon’tknowaboutyet. UnlikemanypartsoftheBasin,theriver runsfastintheUpper‘Bidgee.DarrenRoso explainsadifferentapproachusedhere. Urbanexpansionanddevelopmenthaveledtoa greaterrequirementforwater–oneofthethings Weputintworockgroynesintheriverclose PartoftheUpperMurrumbidgeeatTharwa. Photo:CharlieCarruthers. thatimpactsfishhabitatinthe‘Bidgee.Photo:Charlie toTharwainabout’99.Therewasaboutfour Carruthers. orfivekilometrestherewheretheriverwas verybroadandsandywithnohabitatto 1 909 speakof.Priortotherockgroynesgoingin, - a c we caught nothing but European carp and all to sto goldfishandgalaxids.Butthentwoweeks Dr.A.J.Brady,presidentofthep rRodFishers tr ingba afterwedidanotherelectrofishingrun,and Society,reportedtotheeFisherieses Boardrk…in g wecaughttroutcod,Murraycray,plentyof [that] shrimps and a couple of yabbies. Theupperriverwasclear,butabout Coomatheriverwassomewhat The best of both Bryans discolouredwithearthwashedinfromthe Bryannowownstwotackleshopsin banks.Hesuggestedthatinordertokeep Canberrawherehecontinuestotalkabout theupperriverclear,ringbarkingshould be prohibited along the river banks. There thevalueofscientificandlocalangler wastoomuchclearedlandaboutCooma. knowledgetoeveryone.Hesays: The‘BidgeeatBumbalong.Photosource:Luke ThematterwasreferredtotheLands Johnston. That’swhythereweretwoBryanPratts.One Department. wasascientist,onewasafisherman.Putthe (TheSydneyMorningHerald,13February1909,page14) twotogetherͲyougetthebestofboth worlds. 143 Adrian Brown – Ngunnawal responsibilities wereallstilllivingonthemissions.Dadand AdrianBrownwasborn UncleAlecusedtogoouttherefishing,and in1975andgrewup S attherighttimethesilverperchwouldbe ilve fishingtheQueanbeyan (Bidyanus bidyanusr grunter,p black bream, justroaringuptheriver.Hesaidallyouhad Ͳ erch Riverwithhisfatherand todowasthrowthehookinthewaterand silverbream,bidyan) hisbrothers.Asa bangthey’djusthitthehook.They’dendup Ngunnawalman,his withpilesandpilesofsilverperchontheside responsibilityfor ofthebanks.Nowyougothereyouwon’t countrywaslearntondaysoutontheriver. getone. Alotofmytimeasayoungfellawasspent Ngunnawal fishers ontheQueanbeyanRiver.Dadwasreal passionateaboutthewaterandalwaystook Ngunnawalfishershavealwayslivedalong usupthere.We’dwalkupanddownthe the Murrumbidgee, chasing fish that riveranddolotsoffishing.Dadwasmadon sustainedtheirpeople.Fishingtripswere Photo:BarryPorter. trout fishing. So it was good fun. Sometimes combinedwithotherwaystohonourthe x Mediumtolargefishgrowingto50cmand we would be sitting around or moving from knowledgeandtraditionsofAdrian’s 8kg,butusually35cmand2kg spottospot.We’dlookatthings.Itwasn’t NgunnawalAncestorsandelders. x FoundinsimilarhabitstoMurraycodand justlookingatthewaterandfishing.We’d goldenperch(lowlandturgid,slowflowing gowithDadandhewouldshowyousome Eventryingtogetbackintopracticingour rivers) placeandsortoftalkaboutit.Itwasreally culture.Likethatwasreallyimportanttous x Spawningcanoccurwithoutaflood,but good. Yeah, so we learnt country. too. I remember getting yellow box and thesefishseemtobenefitfromariseinwater makingcoolamons.Soifyouwalkalongthat level rivernow,you’llseethescarredtreeswhere Silver perch roaring up the river x Willmovethroughfishways we’vebeen.Andweusedtolaughatthat. Adrian’sfatherremembersatimewhen Archaeologistswillcomealongthereoneday x Eataquaticplants,snails,shrimp,andaquatic insectlarvae silverperchwereplentifularoundWee andsay,‘what’sgoingonhere?’.Wewantto Jasper. throwoutthatperspectiveofAboriginal x Potentialthreatsincluderiverregulation, peoplehavinglostcontactwithcountry.It barrierstomigration,alteredflowregimes, Dadtoldmeastorytherewhenhewas cold water pollution and interactions with showsourcontinuation.Webelievedinour workingandwentouttoWeeJasper.We carp and redfin country and our country looked after us all usedtogoouttherefishingalottoo.Allthe that time. x Listedas‘Vulnerable’inNSWandtheACT Yassmob.Backintheolddayswhenthey 144 A pathway for bosses Blackberries, carp and silt TheUpperMurrumbidgeealsohasspecial Adrianhasseenmanydifferentchangeson significancefortheWiradjuri,Yuin,Ngarigo N theriverinhislifetime:theimpactofexotic andWalgalupeople.Itisaceremonyplace. gunna fishspecies,sandquarryingupstream, AndtheNgunnawalhaveresponsibilityfor TheareaaroundthecityofwCanberraal is weedsandencroachingsuburban caringforthesacredsitesforallthese NgunnawalCountry.Thiswasastagingplacefor development. different groups. Adrian explains the neighbouringcommunitieswhotravelledfrom Eachofthesechangesbringschallengesfor meaningofMurrumbidgee: CanberrathroughNgarigolandinthehighland regionsforceremony. thefishandtheirhabitatintheUpper ‘Murrum’meanspathwayandit’samen’s ‘Bidgee. AdrianBrown’sancestorMurrenͲgenͲillywasa pathway.And‘bidgee’meansboss.Soit’s powerfulmanwhocouldspeakmanylanguages. Thebiggestthingishousingdevelopment.A pathwayforbosses.Anditstartsupinthe Heplayedanimportantmaster–of–ceremony bigthingtooisweeds,liketheblackberry. mountainsandendsallthewayout,going roleinfacilitatinginitiationofyoungmenfrom TheMurrumbidgeeisgettingfullofweeds downintotheMurray.AllAboriginalpeople, hisownandothernations.TheriverͲcampswere andyoucan’tevengetdownandenjoy allmovingupthroughthatrivertodotheir partofjourneysfromthecoastandtheplains. yourself.Youcan’tsitdownataplace law.That’showitusedtobe. Mentravelledtothehighcountryforceremony, whilewomenwaitedtogetheratcampsinthe becauseyou’llbesittingonaweedthat’s Whencoastalpeoplestravelledfromthe lowerreaches.6,12 pokinginyourback.Youcan’tevengetto Shoalhaventheywouldbringgiftsforthe thewaterbecauseit’sallcoveredwith TheNgunnawalnurturedplentifulstocksoffish blackberries.Carpareabigthingtoointhe Ngunnawalandtheriverbecameaplaceto bymonitoringfeedandlimitingharvest.This Murrumbidgee. You’ve only got to go up trade. helpedprovidefortheseseasonalinfluxesof peopleintotherivercorridor.Differentgroups aroundKambahPoolinthemorningand Weknowtheywerebringingalotofmussels withinthecommunitywereresponsiblefor you’llseehundredsofthemjustjumpingup up because of the surveys that we’ve done caringforthecod,yellowbellyandperch anddowntheriver. alongtheriver.We’vegotfreshwater throughouttheyear.Thisbountycouldthenbe musselsandyoucanseethesaltwater sharedamongstthelocalsandvisitors. musselsaredifferent.Theystandout.They mighthavebeenmakinghooksoutofthem. Theyhadtheirdillybagswiththemandthey weredippingthatinthewaterasthey travelled.Notcollecting,butbringingthat withthem.Theywerekeepingthefoodfresh inthewater. 145 DickandGayLawlerhavealsoseenchanges tothewaterqualityinrecentyears. Trout Idon’tswimintherivermuchanymore,it’s TroutfishingforsporthasalongEuropeanheritage, beensodirtycomparedtowhatitusedtobe. especiallyinScotland,aplacewheremanyAustralians Itusedtobecrystalclear.Ithinkit’s claimheritage.TheCampbellandMacQuaidefamilies somethingtodowithsanddredgingup wereamongstthefirstsettlersintheCanberraarea. Acclimatisation societies bought many different aroundNumeralla,becauseit’scrystalclear, animals–includingfish–toAustraliaoverthe19th justnorthofCoomaIbelieve. Century.Immigrantsalsoboughttechnicalknowledge aboutkeepingbroodstock,breedingupfingerlingsand releasemethods.Alpinerivers,suchastheUpper ‘Bidgee,werethoughttobecomparabletoupland Que streamsinEurope.4 anb KambahPoolhasthehighestdiversityandnumberof Earlysettlersalsomovedenativeya fishfromplaceto JohnGale’sandJFCampbell’stroutreleasesin1888 n c eventually became a government enterprise. nativefishspeciesdetectedinallmonitoringinthe place,includingintoriverswheretheyod wouldnot Upper Murrumbidgee. Photo: Scott Nichols. naturally have been found (this practice is known Acclimatisationsocietiessoldtroutlicensesfrom1936 5 as‘translocation’).Oneexampleoftranslocating to1957tofundtheirownhatcheries. nativespeciesisrecountedinthisstoryfromthe Butnoteveryonewaskeenontroutasthisnewspaper Adrian’scolleagueintheACTParksand midͲ1800s. articlefrom1907shows: ConservationService,DarrenRoso,also ‘….nearlytwentyyearsago,conveyedin InsomepartsofMonarolocalpeopleregardthe worriesaboutthemovementofsiltandits ordinarywaterͲcasks,onhorseͲdrays,afew troutwithanythingbutfavour.Theyknowthatthe dozens of cod and perch from the Queanbeyan effectonthefish. introducedfishhavedriventheindigenousedible atYarralumlatothewatersofWinderradeen, fishaway,andtheyregretthecircumstance, We’vegotsomeverysodicsoilsinour adistanceofnearlyfortymiles.Theperch especiallyasregardsthecapitaledibleperch. wereneverseenafterbeingdepositedintheir catchmenthereandsothefineclaysremain (TheSydneyMorningHerald,21December1907,page16) suspendedforweeks,months.Andthathasa newhome.Butthecodthrivedandmultiplied, reallybadaffectonfishlarvaeinparticular. andbymeansofsubsequentfloodswere carriedintoLakeGeorge,wheretheyhave Itjustcoatseggsandtheydie,beitfish, thrivenandincreasedtoaninnumerable insects, frogs or other animals. extent.’ (BraidwoodIndependent,14September1867, page 4) Arainbowtrout.Photo:NSWDPI. 146 Darren Roso – Canberra man vs Murrumbidgee wild Darrenwasbornin TherewasthismarvellousblokecalledLouis 1965andmovedto Margules.Andhelivedalongtheriverallhis Gard t life.AndassoonasIstartedhewasatmea en Canberrain1988to Canberraissufamousb asacityplannedfor bitandwassaying,‘howcanyoubearanger urb startajobwiththe spacioushomesandsmotor a transport.Itwas along the river and your feet aren’t bloody nd ACTParksand developedfrom1913,inadecadefishwhen wellwet?’Youcan’targuewiththatkindof ha ConservationService. gardensuburbswerefashionable,underbitheta logic.FromthenonIalmostneverworelong supervisionofMarionMahoneyandWalter HeisnowaSenior trousersandIhadacoupleofsparepairsof BurleyGriffin. shoes, and I would be in the river all the time. Rangerandhasspent Asthecitygrewthesegardensuburbscrept 23yearslookingafteran80kilometre Iprettymuchtookontheroleoftheriver closertotheriveruntilthesatellite sectionoftheMurrumbidgeecorridor. ranger.I’llwalkalongtheriverandkill communityofTuggeranongwasdesignedin willowsandswimtheriverandwalktheriver 1969.Roadswithchannelandcurbing RightfromtheverybeginningIgotputinto andliloandkayakandcanoeandraftand changedthewaywaterflowed.Thelossof anareawecalltheMurrumbidgeeCorridor. ride.Itakethechildrendowntheretofish nativevegetationintensifiedtomakewayfor Althoughitsprimaryfunctionis andhuntandcanoeandswim. housingblockswithlawns. conservation,itsprimaryuseisrecreation.I Louishadalsoworkedasarangerforthe Sincethefirstsuburbanitesmovedinto haveafewdegrees,butfindthepractical Kambah in 1973, the population of service. One of the perks of the job was experienceandknowledgeequallyuseful. Tuggeranonghasgrowntoover87000. campingoutovernightͲandfishingafter Introduced deciduous trees, including willows, knockoff.JobperksthatLouispassedonto Aren’t your feet wet? contributedtothevividanddecorativefloral Darren.Louisremembers: WhenDarrenstartedintheservice,Louis cityscape.Butthechemicalsandfertilisers used to keep these gardens leafy and Margules took him under his wing and Ifyouweregoingtostaythenightonthe flourishing added new chemicals and nutrients riverbecauseyouwantedtogetajob showedhimtheropes,taughthimabout to the runoff that ended up the river. finished first thing in the morning, you’d take beingarangerandsharedlocallorefroma acoupleoflines.10 ThedevelopmentofCanberraanditsgardens lifetimeontheriver. changedtheconditionsintheriverforfish. DarrenhasfollowedLouis'leadwithgusto. Therewerealsomoreandmorepeopleusing Heisrenownedamongsthiscolleaguesfor localMurrumbidgeereachesforfishingand takingoffintotheMurrumbidgeewildwith otherformsofrecreation. justakayak,aswagandafishingrod,living offtheriverfordaysatatime. 147 The trouble with sheep Fish and fires The area around the Murrumbidgee is sheep On January 8, 2003 lightning from an F ish an country.Grazinghasbeenapartofthe electricalstormlit160smallfiresinthe TheACTbushfiresin2003dand fir2009and regionsincethe1850s.Whentheriver BrindabellaandNamadgiRanges.Overthe Victorianfiresin2003,2006Ͳ7andes2009 affected the catchments of the Upper floods,asitdidintheearly1990s,Darren followingweek,thefiresmovedthroughthe Murrumbidgee,Murray,GoulburnandOvens hasseenthedamagecausedbythesheep. drytinderinthemountainforestsallaround Rivers. theMurrumbidgee.Whenextremewinds There’snotverymanybackwatersinthese Extremefireeventsrapidlyremovemostorall mountainstreamsystems.Soyoudon’tcatch whippedupandtemperaturessoared,the trees,shrubsandgrassesfromacatchment, certainspecies.Billabongsareinhabitedby bushfirereachedepicproportions,moving immediatelyheatingshallowwaterandadding slightlydifferentcritterstothemainstream. downthevalleysandintosuburban largeamountsofash.Onceafirehaspassed, Therearen’tasmanyofthemhere,sowe Canberra. thelackofshadytreesallowsthesuntoheat the water more quickly and means that ash, needtolookafterthemsomuchmore.And Darrenremembersthedevastatingimpact soilanddebrisarewashedintothewaterway unfortunatelytheyhavetakenthebruntof of the bushfires on the fish and fishing. wheneveritrains. alltheoverlandflow,allthesoilthat’scome Increasedsedimentandashloadsnegatively offalloursheepcountry.Soforexample, Itdidburnoutalotofthecountryalongthe affectfishbycloggingtheirgills,smothering afterabigstormyou’llseetheseraftsof Murrumbidgee and it killed a lot of fish and eggsandwaterplantsandfillingindeeprefuge sheep manure on top of these little wildlife.Itwasveryemotionalforme holes.Waterqualityalsosuffersbecausethe backwaters.Andsoevenifacodwasableto becausewesawitcoming. waterbecomesdeoxygenatedasorganic getupinthereandspawn,thosefingerlings materialdecomposes. would be doomed. There’s just too many Theseimpactscancausemassivefishkills,such nutrientsthere. asin2003fromDingoCreektoMyrtlefordon theOvensRiverwhenfishwereeffectively wipedoutforadistanceof150km.
Afiredamagedwaterway.Referenceandimagesource: www2.mdbc.gov.au/subs/annual_reports/NFS_Annual_imple mentation_report2004Ͳ05/annexes/vic/vic5.htm. 148 Making Connections Murray cod and wild duck IneverhadbetterfareanywhereinEurope Getting wet feet thanatsomeofthelittlewayͲbackpubsout In1925theromanticnovelistMissLouise onthegreatplainsoftheMurrayͲMurray Intheheatofthesummer,GayLawler Mack struck out of from the city in her codandwildduck.Whatcouldoneask wouldtaketotherivertocooldown. motorͲcartoseetheoutback.Shejoineda more?8 Iusedtofloataroundontheriveronalilo. listofothernotableAustralianwomen, But,gee,you’dcomefacetofacewith Marion Bell, Gladys Stanford and Jean snakesandgoodnessknowswhat.Theblack Robertson,inbecomingan‘urban snakesusedtolurkaroundinthewater,in 7 automobileadventurer.’ thereeds.Thesnakesandotherwater Fishandfishingcontributetothesenseof creaturesdon’tseemtotakeanynoticeof you when you’re in the water. But I’ve done AustralianͲnessofMissMack’sjourney. somebackpaddlinginmytime. Australiahasaqualityallherown,andthe funnything(orisitpitiful?)isthatyoudon't DarrenRosolikestogethisfeetwetand knowittillyougoawayfromAustraliaand duringthefloodsandfreshesthatflow seetheworld.Comingback,yourealisethat downthe‘Bidgeehecanfeelthechangesas thewordmagnificentdescribesourcountry. theyareapproaching. England is like a pocket handkerchief in Thewaterflow’sextremelyfast.Whenyou comparison. Oh, the great plains I have standonthebankandyouplantyourfeet motored over these last 10 days – the great quitefirmly,youfeelthisultralowvibration rivers, the Murray, the Murrumbidgee, and comingupthroughyourfeet.Andyeah,it’s the Darling. Oh, the wonderful fish in these reallybeautifulactually.Andpowerful.Itjust rivers the cod, catfish, perch, lobsters – and Ͳ liftseverything.Andlogsjustbecomechipsin the wonderful game that rushes past you notimeatall.It’sveryrockyhere.Andso everywhere – duck, pigeon, quail, plover, logsjustgetgroundupinnotimeatall. hares,rabbits,tosaynothingofmillionsof parrotsofeverysortandkind,andalledible to hungry people. How glad one feels that we arenotahungrypeople,buthowproudone LadiesfishingintheMurrumbidgee.Photosource: NationalLibraryofAustralianla.picͲvn3995704Ͳv. feelstoknowthatwecouldfeedvast multitudesifnecessary. 149 A river community Oneofmychallengeswastogetthemto changetheiropiniononthewayIfeltabout State GayandDickLawlerappreciatethatthe country.Ittookalongtime.SoIguessmy of TheSustainable Riversth Audit(SRA)isanongoing longͲtermhealthoffishdependsuponthe worknowistotryandgetallourrangers e ri systematicassessmentofvriverer healthof23major careandresponsibilityfortheriverandthe employedoverthenextfewyearsand ‘Ve rivervalleysintheMDB.Environmentalry pindicatorso landarounditandtheyareinvolvedin foreveron,tomakesurethattheylookafter (themes)includehydrology,fishand or’ activitiesthatallowthemtocontributeto countrythewayIfeelforcountry.They’reall macroinvertebrates,whicharemonitoredandwill 11 thesechanges. goingtocomefromdifferentplaces.We’re highlighttrendsovertime. notalwaysgoingtogetNgunnawalfellas.A Theyhavefoundthatthisisagreatwayto TheMurrumbidgeeValleywassurveyedin2007. lotofNgunnawalfellas,theymightwantto The Murrumbidgee Valley fish community as a be part of the river community. Some of goandpursuesomethingelse.Thethingis wholewasconsideredin‘ExtremelyPoor’Condition. theirbestfriendsandneighboursworkalong now,justtryingtogetpeopletorespectthat Inthe‘UplandZone’thefishcommunitywas sidethemtobringbackthefish. you’reonsomebodyelse’scountry.Like consideredtobein‘ExtremelyPoor’Conditionand
that’sthebigthingnow.Protocolwillbe ‘Poor’inthe‘MontaneZone’.EcosystemHealthwas anotherpartofwhatIneedtodo.Weneed consideredin‘VeryPoor’Conditionforbothzones. We’reinvolvedintheUpperMurrumbidgee tohaveitsetoutandteachpeople. DemonstrationReach.Wealsoworkwith Atotalof9specieswerecaughtfromthe‘Upland Zone; and 8 species from the ‘Montane Zone’. The Landcare.Thelandcaregroupsaregoingto fishcommunityintheseregionscomprised17%and replacewillowswitheucalypts.Mannagums. 60%nativespeciesrespectivelyandalienfish And anything else that’s native to the biomasscomprised90%and76%respectively. riverbank.Sothatwillbeabigjob.Butweall gettogetherforbarbequeatlunchtime.It’sa Nativefishcatchinthe‘UplandZone’was dominated by mountain galaxias, with carp verysocialoccasion. gudgeonstheonlyothernativessampled.Inthe ‘MontaneZone’mountaingalaxiasagain AdrianBrownwasrecentlyappointedasthe dominated,withtwoͲspinedblackfishand AboriginalLiaisonOfficerfortherangersof Macquarieperchalsocaptured. the ACT Conservation and Parks Service. He Rainbowtroutdominatedthealienspeciesinboth seesanopportunityintheemploymentof zones. Aboriginalrangersasawaytoreinvigorate Inthe‘UplandZone’Easterngambusia,carpand theNgunnawaltraditionofwelcoming redfinperchalsodominated,withoriental Tree planting activities on the banks of the ‘Bidgee as peopleofothernationstobuildnew weatherloach,goldfishandbrowntroutalso part of the Native Fish Awareness Week 2010. relationships with the river and fishing. captured.Inthe‘MontaneZone’goldfish,Eastern Photo:CharlieCarruthers. gambusia,carpandbrowntroutwerealsocaught. 150 Visions for the Upper Murrumbidgee Thefishingpeoplewhocontributedtothis Andsoaswespeakwe’replantingalotof EducationisalsosomethingthatAdrianBrown projecthavealltalkedabouttheirhopesfor treesdowninthefloodzonewherewefully seesasparamountforthefuture–forboth thefutureoftheriver.Manyfelttheyhad expectthemtocollapseintotheriver AboriginalandnonͲAboriginalcommunities. seensomeimprovementsbutmostdon't eventually. Thechallengesaredifferent,butteachingand feeltheriverisashealthyyetastheywould OverBryan’slifetimehehasneverseen learningarekeytoAdrian’svision. liketoseeit.Eachofthesefisherssuggested catfishthriveinthispartoftheworld.Inthe Educatingthewhitefellasisthebigthing,because waystohelptheriverandinturnhelp pasthewasinstrumentalintranslocating oftheirignorance.Idon’twanttosoundbad provide healthy habitats for fish. catfishinanattempttoreͲestablish aboutthembutthey’vegotawayinthemwhere populations.Mostoftheseventuresfailed. theyjustdon’tunderstand.….Butwe’vegotto It’ll take time Helookstoresearchandscienceto educateourownmobtoo.Iguessthatknowledge Understandingthelongertermcyclesinthe contributetothereͲbuildingofcatfish ofcountrygivesasenseofpridetoo.Youcanput riverenvironmenthasbeenanimportant numberssothattheycanonceagain yourchestoutandsayIdon’tcarewhatyousay, becauseIhaveresponsibilityforthishere.AndI wayforDarrenRosotoseewhatthefish becomeafavouredfishforanglers. knowthatthisismine.Myfathertaughtmeabout need.TheACTParksandConservation Alotoffisharehardtotranslocatebecause thisandhisfatherandhisfather. Servicearepartofaprogramthatwill they’resofragileandtheydie.Catfishyou introduceonemilliontreesintothe canwrapupinawetnewspaperandyoucan MurrumbidgeeCorridor. goseveralhundredkilometreswiththemand releasethemandtheyswimawayquite Rebuildingfishhabitatdoesnothappen happily.Isuspecttheycanbreathethrough overnightandDarrenappreciatesthatitwill mucusmembranesinthemouth.Isuspect taketimetochangethevegetationonthe theEHN*maybeinvolvedintheirpopulation banksthatwilleventuallybecomehomefor controlhere.Buthavingsaidthatthere’sno thefish. specificevidenceofthatyet.AndI’m fascinated by the fact that they won’t survive Andyoubegintobeabletopredictstufftoo. in some of these places that would seem to Sothatforexampleinthismilliontrees be amendable locations. Somebody needs to programnowit’sstillnotcementedinpolicy sit down and take a long hard look at catfish. oranything,butwearedoingit.Thewillow logs and all the older logs and things, that (*EHNreferstoEpizooticHaematopoieticNecrosisvirus,a Schoolchildrengettingtoknowthebasics. woodydebrisisnotgoingtolastforever. seriousandnotifiablefishdisease.) Photo:CharlieCarruthers. 151151
Source:NSWDPI. Source:NSWDPI. Source:JasonSimpson. Source:NSWDPI. Source:MillyHobson. 152
JoeandPearlTrindall(picturedwiththeir nephew,Phil,centre)werebothbornin Gamilaraaycountry.Duringthefiftiesand sixtiesJoewasadroverandPearloften travelledandcampedwithhim,fishingfor foodastheywent.Fishinghasbeenawayof gatheringwithfamily,friendsandcommunity throughouttheirlives.Photo:JodiFrawley. Spider Cunningham is an active member of theNarrabriAmateurFishingClub.Heisa passionatefishermanandloveskayakingthe NamoiRiver,especiallywhenfreshesand minorfloodscomedown.Theriverisavital wayforSpidertorelaxinhisbusylife. Photo:JodiFrawley. CarolandEricHannancametoliveintheir houseonthebanksoftheNamoiRiverinthe early1970s.Theyraisedtheirownandfoster children,takingthemfishingoften.Fishing, theysay,helpedtheirchildrenlearnabout andrespecttheeverchangingriver. Photo:JodiFrawley. JasonSimpsonlearnttofishasachildonthe occasionaloutingstotheriverwithhisfamily. Thesechildhoodexperiencesgrewintoan intenseloveofeverythingaboutfishing. JasonchasesthebigfisharoundtheNamoi Riverandisagreatadvocateforcatchand release.Fishers,hesays,havethe opportunitytocarefortheriverandinthis waytoensurethattherewillbefishformany generationstocome.Photo:JodiFrawley. 153
FishareingreatplentyontheNamoi,andseveralexcellentcatcheshave latelybeenmade;Murraycod,yellowͲbelliesandbreamamply rewardingthediscipleofthegentleart. TheMaitlandMercuryandHunterRiverGeneralAdvertiser,7October1873 154 Introducing the river and its people TheNamoiRiverwindsitswaythrough42 Gamilaraayretoldtheseepicstoriesof The arrival of the British 000squarekilometresofblacksoilplainin creationthroughthegenerationsasthey thenortheastofNewSouthWales.Fedby fishedpatientlyontheriverbanks.Theysee EarlyBritishsettlementfollowedtherivers. theriversofthewesternslopesoftheGreat morethantheNamoiRiveritself–theysee Thefirstgrazingpropertiesweresetupon DividingRange,itcontributesaboutone theessence,excitementandpowerofthe thebanksoftheNamoiintheearly1830s. quarteroftheDarlingRiver’sflow. ancestors. MajorThomasMitchellsurveyedthiscountry in1831,notinginhisjournal:14 Theriver,itsfloodplain,wetlands,swamps andwaterholes,arethetraditionallandsof Oneofourmencaughtafish,whichweighed theGamilaraay*people.TheNamoiisavery eighteenpounds;butaccordingtothe differentrivernowtotheonethe natives,thiswasnouncommonsize.These Gamilaraaypeopleonceknewandfished. fishesaremosterroneouslycalledcodbythe colonists,althoughtheycertainlyverymuch In the footsteps of the Ancestors resemblecodintaste…. For the Gamilaraay, Ancestor spirits created Droughts and flooding rains theriversandshapedtheearth.Sometook theformofwaterserpents,battlingeach Themajordroughtofthe1890shighlighteda river changed by 50 years of development. otherorrescuinglovedonesduringtheir ThesuccessfulfishingbytheGamilaraaywasnotedby travels.Thesecreativespiritswerenamed theEuropeansquatters.Image:TamworthHistoricalSociety. Thelackofwater,increasedsiltationcaused by decades of land clearing and the GarriyainnorthernGamilaraayplaceslike Boobera Lagoon, and Wawey in the southern devastationwroughtbyrabbitsmeantthat areas. theflowoftheriverchanged. *Gamilaraayusagenote TheWaweyintheNamoiRiverwerefirst TheattemptsofearlyEuropeansettlerstotranslatethe Floodsincreasinglybroughtsandintothe namesofAboriginalnationsandlanguagegroupsinto river.Inthe1908flood,thestorymadethe recordedbyBritishexplorersin1832,at Englishledtovariationsinhowthesenameswerespelt.The Borah.AGamilaraaymantoldthemabout followingnamesareusedintheNamoi:Gamilaraay, SydneyMorningHerald: Kamilaraay,Gamilaroi,KamilaroiandGoomeroi. thecontinuingpowersoftheWawey;a The floods of a fortnight ago did great ‘Gamilaraay’isusedgenerallyinthisbooklet,butlocal sourceofceremonialstoriesandof Aboriginalpeopleoftenpreferparticularspellings.Where damagetofencesandroadsthroughoutthe protectionforthesurrounding anintervieweehasapreference,thisisusedintheirprofile. district...thefloodsbroughtdownand communities.13 depositedhugebedsofsand.
155 Floodsbroughtwaterintotheriverthatwas increasinglylacedwithacocktailofchemicals Big Wo beingusedtopoisonbothnativetree anim rking regrowthandtheincreasinglyproblematic Grazingremainedthealmains industryintheNamoi GrazingemployedmanyworkerspeoͲbothEuropean area in the nineteenth centuryon and it boomed up and Gamilaraay particularly beforeplfencinge was pricklypear. the Ͳ untilthemajordroughtandeconomicrdepressioniver widespread.Afterthesoutherngoldrushesinthe ofthe1890s. 1850s,manyChineseworkerscameintothegrazing countryasgardenersand'stickpickers'orclearing TheplainswerenotheavilywoodedwhenOxley gangs.OnthebigrunsChinesetechniqueswereused firstsawthemin1818,butthegraziersrunning toirrigatefreshvegetablestofeedworkers. bothsheepandcattlebelievedtheyneededto clearthelandtogrowmorestockfeed.Stockalso trampledvegetationastheyaccessedtheriverfor water,alteringtheriverbanks. Theriverprovidedfoodaswellasrelieffromthehard workofeverydaylifeinthe1800s.Source:Narrabriand DistrictsHistoricalSociety. Imagesource:WeeWaaHistoricalSociety. Cows and cotton Thenumbersofsmalltownshipsexpandedtomeet Grazingwastheboomindustryofthe therisingpopulationandtherailwayhadreached nineteenthcentury.Therewassomecropping Narrabriby1885. Stockdamagetoriverbanksisstillevidenttoday. but it was hard going in the heavy black soils. It The expanding timber mills of the Pilliga Scrub Photo:MillyHobson. wasn’tuntilthe1960sthatcottonboomed, employedseasonalworkersastheysuppliedfencing Thiscontinuousclearingofnativevegetationled takingadvantageoftheavailabilityofheavy andhousingsuppliesfordevelopmentacrossthe toincreasedsiltationoftheriversandaffectedthe region. Grazing runs still needed drovers and machinery and water for irrigation supplied by habitatoffish. shearers. weirsandlargedams. Withwoolpriceshittingtheirpeakinthe1950s, LocalAboriginalandAngloͲAustralianworkerswere Eachindustrychangedboththelandscapeand thesizeofpropertiescontinuedtobereducedas supplementedbynewlyarrivingimmigrantsinthe howwaterflowedintotherivers.Today,flows closersettlementthensoldierresettlement 1920s.ThisincludedtheGreekfamilieswhooften broughtmoresmallfarmersintothearea,often areheldbySplitRock,KeepitandChaffeyDams ranpubsandcafes,bringingtheirownparticular usingfamilylabourratherthanlargerworkforces. interestsinfishcookingtothewaytheywantedto and numerous weirs and the Namoi rises and 2 usetheriver. fallsaswaterisdivertedtoirrigatecotton.
156 Joe and Pearl Trindall - A wonderful life on the river
JoeisaGoomeroimanborn It was a good healthy life inNarrabriin1925.Helived Sharing the catch Pearl moved to Narrabri when she married on‘TheIsland’between OftentheTrindallscaughtmorefishthan Joe in 1946. Together they’ve raised seven NarrabriCreekandtheriver. theyneeded.Theywouldsharetheextra children. During the early years of their Fishingandswimmingwerea fishwithfamily,friendsandneighbours. marriage, Pearl and the children travelled partofeverydaylife. Somefamilymemberswouldalsogivefish withJoewhenhewasdroving.Therivers Yes,theoldDadalwaystookusfishing.We tothelocalhospitalinwhichevercountry wereanimportantpartoflifeontheroad. usedtohaveanoldbamboofishingrodor towntheyhappenedtobenear.Pearl Pearlremembers: anystraightoldstickwithabitofstringtied believedthatfishhadaspecialrolein ontheendofit,andahook.Weusedto Whenwewere healingthesick: catchcodfishnearlyaslongasourselfin droving,Ithink Whenanyonegetssick,wealwaystrytoget thembigrivers,youknow.You’dsayyou peopleusedtofeel himafish,youknow.Becauseitseemsto wantapieceofyellowbelly,weknewwhere sorryforme,butI givethemstrength. theyellowbellyholewas.Ifwewantedcod, lovedit,beingoutin weknewwherethecodholewas.Orthe theopenair…itwas NoteveryonesharedJoeandPearl’s jewfishorwhateverpieceoffishyouwanted, agoodhealthylife.Butit’sthesortoflifethat’s attitudeabouttheirfish.Joerecallstheway youcouldgotothatarea.Itwasawonderful bestbeforethechildrengettoschoolage. thatsomepeoplewastedfish: lifeontheriver. Andwhatusedtomakemewild,you’dsee A clean, clear river peoplethatwouldgodownandtheymight Bobby cod catch 200 fish, and they’d leave them to rot Knowingtherightspotstocatchfishwasas onthebanks. Anotherfishthatwasplentifulinthe1930s importantwhentheyweredrovingas Riverwerespangledperch,or‘bobbycod’. findingtherightspottowatertheanimals. Bobbyfish,weusedtocallit,littlebobbies. Fishingwasawaytosupplementtheir Sometimesyou’dgettwoorthreeontheone rations.Joerememberstheriversinthose hook.You’dnosoonerthrowyourlineinand daysasclearandclean: you’d get one, throw it back, and they’d be Theyhadcouchbanks,youknow,andyou onitagainsoquick. couldseethereflection,youcouldsee yourselfintheriver,orinthewater,the reflectionofyourselffromthebanks.
157 Crops, water and fish Atonetimeyou’dstopandhaveadrinkout oftheriver,wouldn’tyou?Butyouwouldn’t Wheatwasoneofthefirstcropsgrown now,orevenfillthebillyup,boilthebillyfor aroundtheNamoi.Wheatgrowinghadan tea.Butyoudon’tliketodothatnowwithall Whe unexpectedbenefitforfishers:wheatbags therubbishandthestuffthat’sinit,you n c In 1962 two Californianot families planted cotton at wereusedextensivelyforcarryinggearand know. ton WeeWaa.Highnumbersof newwaworkerswere baits, as impromptu nets, as keeper nets and s k neededtosupportcottonproduction.inSomeg were ascushionsforsittingonthebanks. Some things change mechanicallytrainedworkerstorunthe harvesters and cotton gins. Most were unskilled Pearl and Joe saw big changes to the river SpiderCunninghamrememberstheimpact workerscalled'chippers',whoweededthecrops. whencottoncametotheNamoicatchment ofcottonontheNamoiRiverbuthasalso The major floods of the 1970s revealed the inthe1960s.Pearlrecallsthatdams, seensomethingschange: damagedonebycotton.Theroadsconstructed irrigationpumpsandwateringforcrops forallruralindustrieshadalteredtheflowof Whencottonwasintroducedin1966,they changedthefishinginthearea: floodͲwater,causingunexpectedinundations. were very naughty and let their water back Themassivefloodingensuredthatresidual Theproblemwasthattheytooksomuch intotheriveranditwasfullofchemicals.It chemicalsflowedfreelyintotheriversystem.The water out. When the flood’d be on, the knockedtheriveraround,withtheweeds Aboriginalchipperswentonstrikein1973in rivers’dbefull.Butthenyou’dseethe andallthatsortofthingaroundhere.But protestabouttheconditionsoftheindustry.1 irrigationgoing,andinamatterofafew now,whateverwatercomesontotheir Inanefforttoretainwaterandchemicalswithin days,thewater’dbelowagain. property, stays on their property, so they’re a theirpropertyboundaries,cottonfarmers Joeagrees: bitwiser. investedheavilyinreticulationandoffͲriver MookiRivercottonfarmerTimGavinlikesto storages.Theyalsostored'harvested'waterfrom Itdid.Attimesthere’dbeafloodhere,and rain fall. As the massive water storages fish with his three sons and their mates. His Ͳ thewaterwouldnotgetdownasfaras blossomed,theimpactsofwaterlossbecame Walgett.You’dhaveitallpumpedoutbefore worriesaboutusingsomanychemicalshave moreapparent.Reducedflowsfromirrigation itgottothegraziers.We’dgetnowater.It’s beenlessenedwithhisuseofgenetically andcontinuinghighnutrientlevelsfromstock stillhappening. modified(GM)cotton.Hesays: hadledtoalgalbloomsin1994evenbeforethe beginningofaseveredroughtin1995 AndthechangestotheNamoiRiverweren’t GMcottonhasmadeahugedifferenceto compoundedtheproblems. justrelatedtotheamountofwater.Pearl theamountofchemicalsrequiredfor laments: cropping.Theenvironmentalbenefitsof thesechangesaresobigthatitismuch betterforeveryoneandbetterforthefish too.
158 It makes you think JoeandPearlTrindallarestillconcerned Pu Ca mping mps a abouttheamountofwaterthatirrigated Irrigationpumpsand drainswatareaproblemfor Rightuptillthe1940slargelongnumbersoffettlersͲthe cotton has needed. Joe recalls: fish.Upto200fishcanpotentiallyer, beextracted t not workersneededtobuildandthenhemaintain r the dailyfromtheriverthroughhighvolume fi railwaytracksͲlivedinbigcampssetupivalonge the TherewasoneplaceWanbiWaterhole,they sh r irrigationpumps.Thesefishareremovedfrom linesandneededtheriverforfoodaswellasfora used to call it. It’s even dried up. And there 3 thenaturalsystemwithlittlechancetoreturnto breakfromtheconfinedandmonotonouscamplife. wasYarrieLake,thatwasalwaysfull.Round theriver,effectivelybeing‘lost’fromthemain The cotton farm chippers, who initially had no union Swamp,that’sbetweenNarrabriandWee riverchannel.Thissituationhasamajorimpact cover and no accommodation on the farms, were Waa,it’sgone.Andtheyweredeep,you onthehealthofnativefishcommunitiesinthe 4 housedinrudimentarycampsonthebanksofrivers knowwhatImean,there’dbefourorfive MurrayͲDarlingBasin. withnorunningwaterandnosewageorgarbage footofwaterinthem.There’snothingthere servicesatall.Additionallystudentsfromthecities now.Theyallhadfishinthem.Yeah,you andtheworkerswhowerealreadypartofthe know,itmakesyouthink. seasonalagriculturalcyclesinotherareasofthestate cametoworkthecotton.Thewastesfromthese campsaddedtotheriver'spollution. Campdwellerswere onverylowwages andsowere dependentonthe riverforfishingand allotherresources. Photo:NSWDPI. Imagesource:NationalLibraryofAustralia. Changestohowcottonisgrownarereducingthe Someofthemoreresilientnativefishspecies, impactonriversandfish.Photo:GregKauter. suchasspangledperchandbonybream,areable DarcyHarrisremembersa‘DiggerRose’whoevenas toliveinstorages,buttheirabilitytoreturnto lateasthe1960swouldcampoutbytheriverasa theriversandcontributetotheirnatural relieffromworkinglife. community is lost. Oneoldfella…wasoldarmymanandhe Theissueisnotnew–backasearlyas1928the alwayshadagreatcoatonwhetheritwas InlandFisheriesOfficerofNSWrecommended:5 SummerorWinter,kepthimwarm,andhe’dsit Screensshouldbeinstalledatallirrigationand onthislogandlieonthelogandfish,withhis otherpumpingplantshavingnotmorethan bottleofrumofcourse.Hehadashortlineand justbobbedalot. halfaninchperforationtominimisethe Researchiscontinuingintotheeffectiveuseof destructionoffishlife. screenstominimisetheimpactofpumpingon fish.Photo:NSWDPI. 159 Spider Cunningham - Tales of catfish and willows Spiderwasbornin stickitintheground,useitasaspringerand then when they leave they take their line off. Narrabriin1957andhas W Butthey’dnevertakethespringerswith‘em. il livedthereallhislife, low So,thatstickwillgrowandmakeanother FA justlikehisDad.Spider Qs tree. wentfishingwithhis Dadwhenhewasaboy, I’ll take a catfish every time butfeelslikehealways knewhowtofish. WhenSpiderwasgrowinguphecaughtcod, yellowbellyandoccasionallybream,buthis NarrabriͲagoodlittlespot!Wedidn’tlearn favouritefishwascatfish. tofishinthosedays.Itwasjustputahook withawormonyourlineandset50lines Youknow,alotofpeopledon’tlikeeatin’ alongtheriverbankandthencomealong catfishbutyoucatchacodandacatfishand WillowsatIronbridgeReserve.Photo:MillyHobson. andpullthefishin. youoffermeafish,I’lltakethecatfishevery timeͲbeautifulͲbeautifulfish. Whenandwhywerewillowsintroduced? Theylivedclosetotheriver,sothey’dset WillowswereplantedinsoutheasternAustralia theirlines,thenleavethemforanhourorso SometimesSpiderwentoncampingtrips tocontrolbankerosion,particularlyinthe1950s beforetheywentbacktocheckthem. withhismatesashewasgrowingup.Ifthe –‘70s.Theyarenowwidespreadinpermanently tentwaspitchedclosetotheriverthenhe wetorseasonallywaterloggedsites Springers couldhearthefishoncethecampsite Howdowillowsaffectfishhabitat? quieteneddownforthenight. Nativefishareusedtothecontinuousleaffall Spider’sfamilyused‘springers’,alightline providedbynativeplants.Willowsdropallof thatwassetinplaceonthebank,usually Yearsagotherewasaweedgrowingonthe theirleavesinautumn.Thischangesthetiming madefromwhatevertreeslinedthebanks sideofthebank,andifyouwerecampedout andqualityoforganicmatterenteringthe on the river you could hear this sucking noise waterway ofafishingspot.Butitwastheintroduced allnight.Thatwasthecatfishsuckin’onthe willows,withtheirlongflexiblebranches, Aren’twillowsgoodforriverbanks? weed.So,youjustchuckyourlineoverthe Willowstendtogrowintoawaterway.They that made perfect springers. However these 8 weedandyou’dusuallycatchacatfish. extractalotofwater andchangethestructure springerssprungtoalifeoftheirown. oftheriverbed.Theirtightrootsystemsform Knowingwherethecatfishwerelikelyto obstructions and can cause water to be diverted Butsee,whathappenedwiththewillows feedmeantthatSpideroftenhadcatfishto aroundthemintobanks,causingerosion yearsagowasthatthey’dsnapabranchoff, eatwhenhecamehome. 160 Joe also remembers catfish Butcatfisharenolongerverycommonin C theNamoiRiver.Theyarenowonthe atf JoeTrindallalsoremembersthembeing (Tandanus tandanus – eelistailedh catfish, jewie) endangeredspecieslistandmustnotbe Ͳ plentifulinthe1930swhenhewasgrowing takenfromwesternriversinNSW.These upinNarrabri: daysSpideriscontenttoreleaseanycatfish You’dseetheoldjewie,theoldcatfish.They thathecatches. buildanestlikeofstoneandyoucouldsee themthroughthewater.Youcouldseethem Fishing from the kayak thereitwasthatclear.Youcouldseethe youngones,littlethings. MorerecentlySpiderhasboughtakayakto takeoutontheriverandhelovestoridethe JasonSimpsonisanotherlocalluckyenough Photo:GuntherSchmida. freshesastheycomedowntheriverandfish toseethecatfishasayoungfisheronthe Medium sized fish, usually 50cm or less ashegoes. x NamoiRiverintheearly1980s. x Bottomdwellersthatpreferslowmoving IcarryalittlefoldͲuprod,alittletelescoperod When I was a kid and we were doing some watersofriversorcreeks inthecanoeandallofmylures.SoifIthink stockmusteringandIwasabittooyoungto x Eataquaticinsects,yabbies,molluscsandsmall there’sagoodstretchofwaterwhenI’m help, I’d go down to another creek on the fish rowingalongI’llpullupandhavetenminutes. othersideofthemountains,arockycreek. x Eggslaidinacirculargravelnestwhichthe Youcouldseethecatfishinthereandthey maleguardsuntiltheeggshatch hadnests;roundcirclesinamongsttherocks Listed as ‘Endangered’ in Victoria, ‘Endangered x whichtheypickedclean.Itwasalmosta population’inNSWandprotectedinSA perfectcircleandyoucouldactuallysee themcleaningthenests.Youcouldthrow yourlineinandthey’dpickupthewormon thehookanddropittotheedge.Itwasn’t untilwewentawayforlunchandwe’dcome backandallofourlineshadfishonthem. Weworkedouttheymusthaveseenusand thoughtitwasabitforeign,sodidn’twantto takethebait.Butonceweweren’tthere, SpiderwouldliketocanoetheNamoifromBoggabri they were quite happy to take it. toNarrabri.Hethinksit’llprobablytaketwodays,but Acatfishguardingitsnest.Photo:NSWDPI. withhissleepingbag,eskyandsmallstove,he’skeen toseetheriverthisway.Photo:MillyHobson. 161 Club fishing trips Reve SpiderjoinedtheNarrabriFishingClub get Thesebeforeandaftershots,takenat3iandahalfyearsapart, abouttenyearsagoandenjoysthe on showtheprogressbeingmadeonDougJamieson’sproperty. companionship of the club's fishing trips downtheriver,theswappingofstories whiletheyfishorinthepubafterwards.The clubisincreasinglyinvolvedincaringforthe NamoiRiver.They’vehadaworkingbeeto repairalocalfishway,theyholdanannual carpmustertoremovecarpfromtheriver MembersoftheNarrabriAmateurFishingClubmuckingin andtheyreleasecodandyellowbelly andbattlingwiththedegradedbanksoftheNamoitoplant fingerlingstoassistinkeepingfishinthe riverredgumsandsheͲoaks.Onthisoccasion120trees wereplantedfromtherailbridgeinMaitlandStreettoa river. positionlevelwithRegentStreet.Theprojectwaspartof theNamoiAquaticHabitatInitiative.Photo:MillyHobson. If we don’t start doin’ somethin’ what’s gonna happen? Explainingwhyheenjoysthispartofthe clubaswell,Spidersays: Whenwewereteenagerswethrewrubbish outthewindowdrivingalongandthrew stubbiesatguideposts.Nowtheolderyou get,youknow,thewiseryougetandyou think,whatarewedoingthisfor?Andit’s likefishing,likeweusedtocatchahundred x Riparianvegetationhelpsstabilisebanks,regulateswater fishandyou’dbring‘emhome.Butnow,we temperatureandprovidesbothfoodandwoodydebris catchandreleasebecauseit’sgettingtothe TheNarrabriAmateurFishingClubisalsoinvolvedin (‘snags’)forfish pointwherewe’reoldenoughtoknowifwe regularwaterqualitytesting.Itmightnotbefishing,but x Clearingriparianvegetation,aswellasweedinvasion, don’tstartdoin’somethin’likethat,what’s theseclubmembersfoundtheyenjoyedgiving uncontrolledstockaccessandcropping,hasledtothe gonnahappen?’ somethingbacktotheirriverandsport. declineinthehealthofnativefishpopulations Photo:MillyHobson. Photosource:DougJamieson. 162 Eric and Carol Hannan - Learning the floodplain life EricandCarolwereintheir Fishing from the veranda A time of plenty twenties when they came to FishingwassomethingtheHannanscoulddo Asthechildrenlearnttoswimandbecame live at Rampadelles in 1973 withtheirkidsastheyweregrowingup.It confidentintheriverenvironment,Carollet with their two year old twins. Ͳ alsowasawaytogettoknowtheirpartof themexplorewiththeirfishingrodsandbait. The house, nestled in the theriver.TheylearnthowtheNamoiRiver Andasthechildrengrewtheirexplorations bend of the Namoi River, moved,wherethedeepspotswereandwhat tookthemfurtherawayoutalongthebanks, came with Eric’s job at happenedwhenthewaterdidbreakthe intothelagoonsandmarshyareasthatthe Kurrumbede, a grazing banks.Whenfloodedin,thekidswould floodsfilledineverycoupleofyears.They property. At first the Hannans sometimesfishoffthefrontveranda. wouldsearchforthedeepholesandbigsnags were daunted by floodplain thatwerethebestforcatchingthelocalfish. living, but slowly this changed Carolremembersthisasatimeofplenty: astheylearntwhattoexpect. They’dgodownfishingwithworms,or The dinghy was our transport they’dthrowtheshrimptrapindownthere. Sometimestheywouldevenusemussels.We Thehouseitselfalmostalwaysstayedhigh usedtocatchalotoffish.Youknow,catfish, anddry.Butwiththeriverononesideand theyellowbellyandthecod.You’dalways Gulligallagoonontheother,theywere getafeedoffishfromtheriver,notrouble. regularlycutoff. Whentheriverrunsintothelagoon, particularlyifthelagoon’sempty,itjust roarsroundthatcorner.Oncethelagoonfills Photosource:Eric&CarolHannan. upthenit’sgottodrainbackdowntoriver Theynevercaughtfish,buttheyusedtojust height.Whichcantakeweeks,sometimesas fishoutthere,inthecurrent,whenthewater longasthreemonths. wasflowingpast.Andweusedtotiethe boattotheverandapostoutthereand Eventhesmallerfloodsofthe1970smeant taughtthekidstorowofftheedgeofthe the dinghy became the main transport for verandabecausetheycouldn'tgetaway, thefamilysotheycouldgettonearby theyjustkeeprowingagainstthecurrent. TheriverneartheHannan’shouse.Photo:Jodi Boggabriforschoolandprovisions. Frawley. 163 Enough to share D R esn es Thefamilynevertookmorefromtheriver aggi naggi thantheyneeded,andonagoodday’s Aslateas1995,removingsnagswasngseenasagood Nowsnagsarebeingreturnedtontheg river,providing thing. vital habitat for fish and helping to maintain the holes fishingtheywouldonlybringhomeenough andgravelbedssolovedbyMurraycodandcatfish. tofeedthefamily.Theywouldsharewhat Increased scientific understanding of the importance theydidn’tthrowbackintotheriver. ofsnagstonativefishandriverhealthhasledto Ifwecaughttwentyfishontheriverwe’d significanteffortstoreversethelossofthisvital neverkeeptwentyfish,you’donlykeepfive habitat. orsixorwhateverandbringthemhome. Themostobviouswaytoachievethisistoputthe Andthennextweekyoumightcatchthe snagsbackin. sameagainifyouwantedthem.Butif Agreatdealofscientificandengineeringanalysisgoes someonecamehereandwantedtotakea intodeterminingtherightposition,sizeandtypeof fish home, we’d give them a fish, because we snagputbackintotheriversothatmaximum hadextrafish. environmentalbenefitsandminimalenvironmental Imagesource:DougJamieson. Snagswereremovedonalargescalefromtherivers damageoccurs. The kids had a ball ofMurrayͲDarlingBasintoimprovenavigationfor paddlesteamers. Fromtheirveranda,thelanddropsawayto aflatgrassyareabeforedroppingagainto Snagswerealsoremovedfromtheriversasitwas thought they caused erosion of river banks and thebankoftheriver.Shadedbybigriverred increasedtheincidenceoffloodingbyreducingthe gumsit’stheidealspotforfishing.When capacityofwaterthattheriverchannelcouldhold. theriverwaslow,theholeatthisspotwas While in certain instances small scale and short term still fourteen foot deep. Ͳ Ͳ erosionmayoccur,inmanycasesthepresenceof Whenthekidswerelittletherewasabig naturalloadsofsnagsmayreduceerosionby bendintheriverandwehadabig,platform protectingtheriverbanks.Similarly,thenotionthat snags increased the incidence of flooding is now inthere.Andinsummertimeyouknow, knowntobelargelyincorrect. they’dcomehomefromschool,we’dhead downtotheriver.AndEricwouldheadhome Theremovaloflargewoodydebris(snags)isakey Theconstructionofaloggroyneinvolvesalotof thatway,andhe’djuststripdownandgoin threateningprocessundertheFisheriesManagement analysis,planningandgettingappropriate permits – all before a log enters the water. It’s so swimmingwiththem.Thekidsjusthadaball Act1994andisimplicatedinthedeclineofthe 12 much easier if it happens naturally! Photo: Milly down there. vulnerableMurraycodandendangeredtroutcod. Hobson. 164 Jason Simpson Take a photo and let ‘em go
Dad’s ‘secret spot’ While as kids Jason and his brother saw this Jasonwasbornin1976.In1980hisfamily as a bit of a lark, for his dad there had to be camefromTamworthtoliveinNarrabri.As a reason to going fishing. Jason remembers: ayoungsterhefishedwithhisdadandhis brother.Fishingwasanoccasional,rather Togofishingtherewasapurpose,itwas thanregular,activity.Itwasanoutingwhen alwaystocatchthem,butitwasprobably theweatherwasperfectorthebusyfamily moreaboutcatchingafeedoffishthanjust schedule.Hisfatherhada‘secretspot’that abouthavingfun. helikedtotakehisboystofish. Sharing with rellies Ihadabrotherso,youknow,itwasusthree men,Isuppose,goingoutandthinkingwe Jason'sfatheralsofishedtheNamoiRiver werebiggamehuntersandbringinghome growingup.HetoldJasonhowitwas fiveorsixfish.Thatwasagoodafternoon. commonpracticeformanyfishtobekeptby Dad’ssecretspotwasclosetotownandso fishers'families.Everyonetooklotsoffishin whenuskidsgotboredorwhatever,itwasa those days. The fish were so plentiful that Jasonwithoneofhistrustylures.Photosource: JasonSimpson. quickpackupandyou’rehomeintimefor sometimestheyweresharedorbartered tea. withotherpeopleinthecommunity. Fishing with mates Iremembermyfathertellingmestories Asayoungmaninthe1990sJason’sloveof about how … they’d be cleaning fish for fishinggrewandafterbuyinghisownboat, threeorfourhourswhentheygothome. hebegantohonehisfishingskills. Well,theyhadfairlybigfamiliesbackthen andmoneywasprobablyabittighttoo.It Whenwewereyoungerweallhadour wasprobablyabitofachangefromeatin’ namesonourlines,soitwasbackwhenwe lambandbeef,butnodoubtitwasprobably hadlicences.Theychangedtherulesandwe givenawaytoalltherellies,andthenext didn’tneedlicences,andthen,dareIsayit,I doorneighboursformaybeforacartonof usedtofishillegallyͲIusedtohavetoo eggsorsomethinglikethatbutI’mpretty manysetlines. JasonwithaniceNamoicod.Photosource:JasonSimpson. sureitwouldn'thavewenttowaste. 165 Familyfishingchangedintofishingwithhis fromthememoriesoftheTrindalls,Spider mates.Thistimeontheriverwithaboat Cunninghamandothersthattheriverofthe allowedJasonandhismatestoexplorethe 1950sstillhadplentyoffishtocatchand riverinawaythattheycouldn’twhenthey shareamongstfamilyandfriends. werekids. We could pull the carp out Chasing cod Jasonalsorecognisesthethreatcarpposed Jasonandhismatescametounderstandthe tonativefish: patterns of shallows and holes and which We’vebeendowntowardsWeeWaathere bitswouldyieldthecodtheyalllovedto andwe’vewalkedprobablyforakilometre catch. andwecameacrossabigpuddlethree metres across, and there would have been Snagsandgravelbedsarerevealedbylowwaterlevels Whenwewereyoung,justtogofishingwas intheNamoiRiver.Thehollowlogsareespeciallyloved abitofaprivilegebutoncewegotaccessto 50Ͳ60carpinthereandtherewasn’tenough byMurraycodasambushsites.Havingsnagsatvarious aboat,thatsortofopeneduptheotherside watertocovertheirbacksandyoucouldjust levelsupthebankmeansthereisagreatervarietyof ofthebank.Wecouldgotospotswehadn’t pull‘emoutonebyone. fishhabitatatdifferentdepths–oncethewaterlevel fishedbefore,orabetterspot.Andthat’s rises. Photo: Milly Hobson. probablyimprovedourfishing.Butwiththe Can’t catch them twice! help of electric motors it sort of makes things Jason’sfishingpracticechangedto‘catch aloteasier.Atthesametime,Isupposewe andrelease’.Henowsaysnativespecies gotbetteratitsoitalsomakesfishing need to be protected by voluntary and easier.Whenyougetbetteratit,youget moreenjoymentoutofitwhenyoucome regulatoryreductioninthenumberoffish homewithfish. thatcanbetakenoutoftheriver: Timeshavechangedandsohavepeople’s Where are all the fish? opinionsoffish.Whatyoucandoandwhat you should do are two different things. I ForJasononeoftheimportantthingsisa eventuallysawkeepingfishasnotthebest betterunderstandingthatnativefisharein thingforthem,‘cause,youknow,onceI decline. He realised that over one caughtthefishIcouldn'tcatchthemagain. generation,thenumbersoffishavailablein So,thenIstartedusingluresandIveryrarely Highflowsconcealthewealthofsnagsprovidingvital theriverhaddrasticallychanged.Weknow gobaitfishingnow.Westilldodigworms fishhabitat.Photo:MillyHobson. 166 andwestillcatchwoodgrubsandyabbies andstillfishlikethateverynowandagain. The Butweveryrarelycatchafeedoffishoutof ag Keepit Dam, first conceivede o in the late 1800s, started in the 1940s and theriver.Normallywejustgotothedams, f e completedin1961,wastherealisationngi ofadreamtosupplywaterforirrigation whicharestocked,andtakethefishoutof nee andmitigatetheeffectsoffloods.Unfortunately,ring itsimpactsonnativefishwere there. In my opinion, it’s a better idea than 9,10 notgood. takingthemoutoftheriver.Bettertotakea fewphotosandletthemgoagain. EricHannanagreesthatlimitingcatchis important: D am im Youknow,asforfishing,Ithinkit’sagood x Damsmodifythepatternandseasonalityofwaterflow.pacNativefishhaveevolvedtobreedwhenthereare‘freshes’. Damsevenouttheflow,sofishdon’tgetthissignaltobreedts thingtostoppeoplefromtakingpilesoffish on fi outoftheriver. x Damsandweirsalsointerruptfishmigration.Fish,suchasMurraycodshand goldenperch,migratetobreed.Ifthey areabletothesefishcantravelhundredsofkilometres,butadamwallisanimpassablebarrier x Fishneedatemperaturesignaltospawn.Waterreleasedfromlargedamscanlowerthetemperatureoftheriver forhundredsofkilometresdownstream.Knownas‘coldwaterpollution’thisalsodisruptsnativefishbreeding 30 AtKeepitDam,ittakesthe 25 distance to Boggabri – Golden Perch Catfish approximately115kmͲfor Silver Perch therivertemperatureto 20 Murray Cod havereturnedtowhatit whenitenteredthedam. For fish, this means that 15 theriverbelowthedam foradistanceofover
C) (degrees Temperature Water 10 100kmsisneverwarm JasonSimpsonreleasinganicesizedcod. enough to trigger Photosource:JasonSimpson. spawning. 5 Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Thisgraphshowstheminimumwatertemperatureneededforspawninginrelationtowatertemperatureinthree areasintheNamoi.Thegreenlineshowsthewatertemperatureupstreamofthedam.Thebluelineshowsit downstreamofthedam.TheyellowlineshowsthetemperaturedownstreamatBoggabri.6 167 Making connections
Good times Therewasalotofgoodfishcaughtandalot We’vegotprobablysixkilometresofriver oftimespentgettingbaitandsometimes frontageandwewouldn'thavehalfofthe Manypeoplelearnttofishfromtheir you’dgetnothing.It’sastrangegameand holesthatweusedtohave.Thebankshave parentsorgrandparentsorauntsand it’sveryrewarding,andyoucansitthereand cavedinandtheholeshavefilledin. uncles.Thistraditionofteachingkidstofish romanticiseabouthowmuchmoneyorhow PersonallyI’dliketosee,probablygrassput alsoisaboutlearningabouttheriverand goodyourcropsgonnabe.Justsitandrelax. there,morethanIwouldtreesatpresent, theplantsandanimalsthatliveinand Thinkaboutthegoodthings…notthebad becauseyoucan’tgrowtreesonstraight things. dropbanksͲgrassyes.Ithink,beforewego aroundit,andhowitallchangesfrom doingthat,wewanttohavealittlebitofa seasontoseason. lookatthingsandaskafewpeoplethat’s It’salsoaboutgettingtogether.Forthe beenaroundforalongtime.That’smy Gamilaraay,thismeantgettingthemob motto,anyway. togetherforstorytellingontheriver’sedge. PearlTrindallremembers: Wehadsomegoodfishingtimes.Butin themearlydays,wherethatjunctionwasit wasthisnicebigplace,andwe’dgoout there,youknow,andcampontheground. Weusedtomakeabigfire,allofus,allthe familieswouldgooutthereandmeet.Itused tobelovely. Gettingawayandjustbeingonorneartheriveris partoftheattraction.Photo:MillyHobson. And getting away But we need to have a little bit Itwasn’talwaystheattractionofgroup of a look at things gatheringsthatwasimportanttofishers.For Ericisconcernedaboutbankerosionand Controllingerosionisanimportantpartof DarcyHarris,whogrewuponapropertyon rehabilitatingriparianareas,likethisbankofthe theamountofsiltanddebristhatendupin theNamoiRiver,fishingwasachancetoget NamoiRiver.Photo:MillyHobson. away: theriverbecauseofit. 168
Doing our little bit St ate o The Sustainable Riversf r Audit (SRA) is a systematic JasonSimpsonandhisbossDougJamieson iver: havebeenrehabilitatingthebanksofthe assessmentofriverhealthfor23‘mmajoro rivervalleysin the Murray Darling Basin. Environmentalde indicators river,plantingtrees,grassesandshrubs Ͳ rat includehydrology,fishandmacroinvertebrates,e‘ which whereDoug’sfarmshavefrontage. aremonitoredandwillhighlighttrendsovertime.7 Likemanypeoplealongtheriver,although TheNamoiValleywassurveyedin2006.The‘Slopes theyknowthatwillowsareintroduced,they Zone’andEcosystemHealthwereconsideredtobein ModerateCondition.62%ofpredictednativespecies arenotconvincedthatitisagoodideato AnareaofriverbankthatDougJamiesonhasbeen werecaught.Whilethesespecieswereapproximately pullthemoutwithoutfirstestablishing steadilyreplanting.Photo:DougJamieson. halfofthetotalnumbercaught,nativefishwereonly otherplantsthatwillholdthebankintimes onefifth(20%)ofthebiomass. ofhighwaters. Nativefishcatchinthe‘SlopesZone’wasdominated bybonyherringandcarpgudgeons.Murray–Darling Jason says of their efforts to re vegetate the Ͳ rainbowfish,Australiansmelt,spangledperchand banks: Murraycodwerealsocommon.Carpdominatedthe alien species. Eastern gambusia were common and We’vebeendoin’itfor13Ͳ14yearsthatI goldfishwerealsocaught. knowofandthebossDoug,isverymuchinto hislandcare.Wewentalonganddidas muchaswecouldwithlandcareandCMA andallthosesortsofaffiliatedcompanies. Mainlyjustplantingtreesandfencingoffthe rivers,andjustlimitingtheareasthatthe cattlecancomedownanddrink,sothat stockdon’tdegradethebanks.Itletsthe grassgrowupandwhentheflowdoescome down,we’redoingourlittlebittokeepitas goodaswhatwecan.Wecanalwaysdo Replantingandfencingtomanagestockaccessinan betterbutit’sanongoingprocess. areaoftheNamoiDemonstrationReach. Photo:MillyHobson. Abankwithsnags,adjoiningtheJamiesonproperty: perfecthabitatforcod.Photo:ScottNichols. 169 Visions for the Namoi Thefishingpeoplewhocontributedtothis Fencing for more fish projecthavealltalkedabouttheirhopesfor DarcyHarrishasseenthedamagethatstock thefutureoftheriver.Manyfelttheyhad coulddototheriverbank: seensomeimprovementsbutmostdon't Well,Iknowthestockweredoingdamage feel the river is as healthy yet as they would onriverbanksandthatbut…likeonour liketoseeit.Eachofthesefisherssuggested place,thereweren’tmanyspotswherethey waystohelptheriverandinturnhelp couldgodowntowaterbecausetheywere providehealthyhabitatsforfish. steepbanks.Sotheycouldonlygodownto waterwherethegoodfishingholeswere Fishingisagreatpastimeforkids.Photo:Anthony Give fish somewhere to live basically,andthat’swherethere’sanice Townsend. littlebeachyoucouldgoandsiton.AndI Eric Hannan suggested that when the river is guesstheyweregrazingthevegetationright I just love the river drythatthismightbeatimewhenrivercare uptothosebanks,sothatwasdenudingitto FishingintheNamoiRivercreatesaspecial couldcomeintoitsown: acertainextent. connectionbetweenfishersandplacesthat Whentheriver’sreallylow,Iwouldliketosee theyfrequentlyvisit.RobertHornesumsup theholescleanedout,andIdon’tmeantake thewaythatmostfishersfeel: thebigoldlogsoutofitͲthere’ssomebig logstherethathavebeentherebeforeIwas Ijustlovetheriver.Youknow,it’ssotranquil born,they’refine.Butdigtheholesoutsothe andit’sgreat,allthebirdlifethere,thelittle fishhavegotsomewheretolivewhenthe kingfishersandthings.SoIhavespentalotof riverdoescomeback.Idon’tmeandignew timeonitasayoungster,andIstilldonow. holesͲImeancleantheoldonesoutthatare ThesefisherscanallsensewhattheNamoi there.Theonesthathavebeentherefor Rivercouldbelikewithsomecareand generations. That’s what I’d like to see. attention.Ariverwithsnags,sandbarsand Reinstatingholesthatusedtoexistinthe deepholes,overhangingnativevegetation, DarcyHarrishopesthatfencingofftheriver,likethis river bed needs a careful understanding of reeds and weed, flushed with freshes and areaofNamoiriverbank,willcontinuetobeapartof howtheriverflowsͲandseveralpermits! helpingtheriverstorecover,sothattherewillbefish floodrainsandlinkeduptofloodplain Knowingwheretheoldholeswereisan forhischildren,grandchildrenandfuturegenerations. wetlands–justimaginethefishthatwould importantpieceofthepuzzle. Photo:MillyHobson. thriveinsuchaplace! 170 Carparewidelythoughttohavearrivedin Carp theNamoiwiththefloodsofthe1970s.But FA newspaperfishingreportssuggestcarpmay CarparrivedinlargenumberswithQthes floodsofthe 1970s.ThesefisharenowamajorpestintheNamoi. havebeenaroundtwodecadesearlier! Theyhavebeenhavingarecordfishing seasonontheBarwonandNamoiRivers, catchingperchandcodbythescore.Oneof thelocalswrites:"theymusthavecome downwithlastyear'sflood.Butwiththemis astrangefishwehaveneverseenbefore.We havenamedittheNewAustralian." (TheSydneyMorningHerald27February1952) Photo:MillyHobson. Howmanyeggstocarplay? Carpareveryfecundandcanlaymillionsofeggsper year. Caneggsbecarriedbybirds’feetandsurvivein mudandinthewatertobefertilisedatanytime? No,carpeggsonlysurviveoutofwaterforashorttime andareusuallyattachedtoplants.Unfertilisedeggs soondie. Cancarpstayaliveinmud? No,carpcannotliveinmud. Docarpundermineriverbanks? Carpfeedbysiftingthroughmudbutthereisno evidencethattheyundermineriverbanks. Docarpspreaddiseasestonativefish? Makingadifferencefornativefishbyreplantinga Alargenumberofparasites,diseasesandviruseshave sectionofNamoiriverbank.Activitieslikereplacing beenassociatedwithcarpbuttherehavebeenno lostvegetationhelpsnativefishholdtheirown’against specificreportsofdeathsofnativefishcausedbycarpͲ introducedspecieslikecarp.Photo:MillyHobson. 11 bornediseasesinAustralia. Somewouldsay‘agoodcarp’.Photo:MillyHobson.
171 171 Upper
Brew arrin a to B ourke
Source:PhilSullivanͲWellbeingProjectDECCW Source:PhillipParnabySource:ScottNichols (Byrockwaterhole). (‘Bull’Milgate,RobertParnaby,DeanBowden, JasonSommerville,PhillipParnabyandDickOxley). Source:ScottNichols. 172
OriginallyfromGundagai,Gordon Brownlearnttofishwithhis brothersandsistersonthefamily’s annualholidaytoMoruyaHeadson theNSWcoast.Achancejobin Brewarrinaasayoungmanhasled toalifespentontheDarling.Photo: CathySimpson. PhilSullivanisaMurawariand Ngembaman.Fishinghasalways beenafamilyandcommunityaffair andhe’slivedhislifecloseto Ngunnhu,theBrewarrinafishtraps. Photo:JodiFrawley. PhillipParnabywasbornandbred inBourke.Allofthefamilyfished, eitheraspartoflargegatheringsor ontheirown,likehisPop,who taughtPhilliptofish.Photo:Jodi Frawley. Foraslongashecanremember DwayneWilloughbyandhisfamily haveheadedouttotheriveron weekendsandschoolholidayswith thetinnie,campovenandasmany kidsanddogsastheycangetinto thecars.Photo:JodiFrawley. 173
Thewaterbeingbeautifullytransparent,thebottomwasvisibleat greatdepths,showinglargefishesinshoals,floatinglikebirdsin midͲair. FromthejournalofThomasMitchell,whilecampedontheDarlingRiver,1stJune1835 174 Introducing the river and its people Tosay‘Backo’Bourke’means‘milesfrom Thefishgruntedwithpain,thendodgedand anywhere’tomostAustralians,howeverthe twistedawayfromthespearthruststoform BarwonandDarlingRiversthatpassbythe thetortuousbendsofanowmightyriver. townshipsofBrewarrinaandBourke, Wherethefishdoubledbackarethestill respectively,areattheheartoftheMurrayͲ billabongs.Thehardrockbarriersthatcross DarlingBasin. theriverarewhereBaiamerestedinhis pursuit. The chase continued until the black Thesearethetraditionallandsofthe fishbrokeintoabroadriverinthesouthand Ngiyampaa,MurawariandYuwalaraay madeitsescape.SotheCallewattawas peoples*.Theyfishedtheriverand formed and can still be traced from surroundingwaterwaysandhuntedthe Brewarrina to the sea. wetlands. Thefishtrapstodaylookingfromdownstream. Laterduringagreatdrought,thewaters Photosource:PhilSullivan. In the footsteps of Baiame belowGurrunggadriedup,thefish disappeared and the people were starving. Baiame,theCreator,strodeacrossthe So Baiame returned to help, bringing his two landscapefromnearCobartothemountain sons to help build a stone web in the shape The arrival of the Europeans atGundabookathenontoByrock,wherethe of a huge fishing net stretched across the dry In1828CharlesSturtcametotheDarlingina markofhisfootprintwaspreservedinthe river bed. Baiame showed the old men how dryyearandproclaimedituninhabitable. stillͲsoftrock.Baiamecontinuedonto to dance and call the rain. ThomasMitchellarrivedduringabetter Brewarrina,andstoppedatthedeep seasonandestablishedFortBourkein1835. waterholecalledGurrunggawhereagreat Aftermanyhoursofdancing,therainscame, Theriverwasessentialforthegrazingruns blackfishwasimprisonedbehind fillingGurrunggauntilitswatersroseand untilartesiandrillingfoundwaterin1879. Gurrungga'srockwall.Baiame,beinghungry, rushedovertherockwall,coveringBaiame's raisedhisshortwoodenspear,woundingthe stonenet,orNgunnhu,andondownthedry Afterearlyconflict,Aboriginalpeopleworked fishwhichbrokethroughtherockwall, Callewatta.Slowlythefloodfell,exposing seasonallyinthepastoralindustry,camping burrowingdesperatelyintothehardground Ngunnhu,andthousandsoftrappedfish. ontheirownlandwithinthebigruns, toescape.Baiamedugafterit,cuttinga movingbetweenstationworkandcaringfor ThisishowtheRockFisheriescameto channelthatfilledbehindhimwiththe Country. Brewarrina. escaping water from Gurrungga.
175 Bythe1870sBourkewasatransporthub.It hadtheportandCobb&Coservices.Itwas *Abo theendofthelineformostofthe rigin TheDarlingRiverandaitsl tributariesla havealwaysbeen paddlesteamersthatmadetheirwayupthe importanttothelocalAboriginalngupeoplea withanumber muddy Darling from as far away as Goolwa. ofAboriginallanguagegroupsfoundgine theregion. group Thesteamerssometimeshadtowaitfor TheattemptsofearlyEuropeansettlerstotranslates the monthsbeforethewatersbecamenavigable. namesofAboriginalnationsandlanguagegroupsinto RainsthatfellanywherefromtheCondamine Englishledtovariationsinhowthesenameswerespelt. inQueenslandtothewesternedgeofthe Despitethedifferentspellings,allAboriginallanguages BlueMountains,fedincreasinglymuddy RivertradeonalowDarling.Photosource:Wentworth havesomekeyrulesaboutpronunciationwhichareused HistoricalSociety. watersintotheBarwonandDarling.When todevelopthewrittenwordsotheycanbepronounced therainsdidn’tcome,thechanneldriedtoa Despiteamassivefloodin1890,along thewaytheyreallysound. seriesofpools. droughtsawtheriverdryby1901.The Firstlythefirstsyllableisstressed.Secondlythereare overstockedlandwasdamaged,blowing only3vowelsͲ'a'asin'cup','u'asin'put'and'i'asin In1885,therailwayarrived.Manyworkers acrosstheregionasdust.Slowlythecattle 'pin'.Wherethevowelsareheldlongertheyarewritten livedintemporarycampsalongtheriver, doubled(egNgiyampaa).Lastly,‘p’and‘b’;‘k’and‘g’; marketrecoveredand,in1938,theTancred wheretheyfishedforcod,yellowbellyand and‘t’and‘d’canbeusedinterchangeablyastheyare Brothersmeatworksopened,processing catfish.Bythetimetheweirswerebuiltinthe notdistinguishedinmostAboriginallanguages. 2000cattleaweek. 1930s,railandlaterroadtransporthad Thefollowingvariationsforlanguagegroupsareusedin replacedrivertrade. Thelongdeclineinthewoolindustrywas theUpperDarling:Baarkindji/Barkindji/Paakantyi/ reflectedinthearea’seconomywhile Paakintji(DarlinguptoBourke),Ngiyampaa/Ngemba (Darling and Barwon Bourke, Brewarrina), Murawari / increasing mechanisation drastically cut the Ͳ Murrawari/Moruwari(lowerCulgoa),Yuwalaraay/ numberofworkingpeopleintheregion.The Yuwaalaraay/Euahlayi(Narran,Bokhara),Gamilaraay/ cottonindustryexpandedinthelate1970s Gamilaroi/Kamilaroi/Guyinbaray/Juwalarai(Barwon, andboomedintheearly1980s,revivingthe Namoi,Gwydir). localeconomy.The1980salsosawarisein InthisbookletwehavegenerallyusedNgiyampaa, outbacktourism. Murawari,Yuwalaraay,andWangkumara(western NSW).However,whereanintervieweehasaspelling Floodsinthemid1970sintroducedcarp preference,thiswasusedintheirprofile. fromthesouth.Bothcottonandcarp broughttheirownchallengesfornativefish AtemporarycampontheDarling.Imagesource: and the Darling River. WentworthHistoricalSociety.
176 Gordon Brown - It all depended on the river Gordonwasbornin1929in WhenIfirstgotmarried,beforeanykids B Gundagai.Helearnttofish camealong,mywifeusedtosay,“Doyou ig a withhisbrothersandsistersat wantfishforteatonight?”We’dgoout nim From1835,grazingals runso wereestablishedaround MoruyaHeadsontheNSW musteringonthehorsesandcomebackthat FortBourke,doingwellnin goodth yearswhenwater afternoonornightandshe’dhavefish e f coast,whenonceayearthe andpasturewereplentifulandfoldingloodafterp familywouldtraveltothe waitingforus.You’dalwayscatchafeedof prolongeddroughts. lain fish,easy,inthosedays.Therewasalotof beachinanoldChevFordtruck–Mumand Thesaltbushplainswerecoveredwithpocketsof fishabout. Dadinthefrontandallthekidsintheback scrubandnativegrassesͲfodderthecattleand underthecanopy. sheepquicklydepleted. Stock trampled vegetation and eroded river banks Intheearlydaysweneverhadanyfishing astheywentdowntodrinkandcooloff.The rods.Weonlyusedtouseagreenbottleor ongoingdamagetoandlossofnativevegetation evenadeadstickifitwasstoutenough.We ontheriverbanksandfloodplainsledtoincreased wouldcatchafewyabbiesordigafew siltationoftherivers. worms.Inthosedaysyoucouldsethalf The drought of the 1890s, along with a worldwide dozenlinesandnooneusedtotakeany recession,compoundedthesepressuresonthe noticeofit.Therewasagoodamountoffish river. intheriversthosedays. A1901RoyalCommissionfocusedonthedamage Fishing the Darling donetothelandbyovergrazingintheprevious 30years.Riverspecieslikefishhadalsosuffered Whenhewas27,Gordonwasatruckdriveron ThepeopleofBourkewereusedtodealingwith significantlyduetotheimpactsofthedroughtand floods – here an army vehicle transports people 1 the interstate route. He bought a load of recession. acrossthefloodedBillabongBridgein1950.Photo deckingtoBrewarrinatorepairabridge source:BartonCollection,BourkePublicLibrary. Thepostwaryearssawaconjunctionofgood damagedinthe1956floods.Whenthebloke seasonsandhighwoolprices.Woolpriceshittheir who was supposed to lay the decking pulled Gordonwasoneofmanyworkersemployedat peakinthe1950s,allowingsmallerpropertiesto be viable. Closer settlement brought more Caringle.Fishingwasnotonlyawaytoputfood out,Gordongotthejob,andhasbeenliving farmersintothearea.However,bythelate1960s neartheDarlingRivereversince.Afterthe onthetable,buttheriverwasaplacefor thepastoralboomhadpassed.Likemuchof bridgewasrepairedheandhiswife(Gwen) recreationwherenewcomerscouldlearnabout inlandNSW,thiscontributedtopeoplemoving workedatCaringleStation,Brewarrina,for theDarlingfromotherstationresidents. awayandadeclineinpopulation. sevenyears.
177 WeusedtohavealotofAboriginalpeople A pup, pup, pup noise workingthere.Theywerecharacters,real characters.Theywereallalotolderthanme. Thefloodsofthe1970sboughtplentyofwater They’dgofishingwithyou,notrouble.You totheDarlingRiver,buttheyalsoallowedthe justgointothebigdeepholesorontheedge movementupstreamofanewcomerthat ofadeephole.Italldependedontheriver, Gordonandotherfishershadneverhadto heightsandallthatsortofthingtoo.We contendwithbefore–carp.Gordonrecalls: usedtohavealotoffun. Youcouldseetheminthewater.Itwasjust SpendingtimebytheriverGordonlearntabout coveredwiththispup,pup,pup,pupnoise. allthedifferentflowsthatwouldaccompany DroughtsoftenledtotheDarlingdryingtoaseriesof Thereweremillions.Wedidn’tknowwhat thewetanddryseasonsfromupstreamand pools.Fishsurvivaldependedonhowlongthepool theywere.Butwesoonfoundout.They remained. Photo source: WJC Collection Bourke Public Library. howthiswouldchangethefishingconditions destroyedthecatfishwhousedtobuilda aroundBourke.Henotedfishnotonlylivedin nestintheriverfrombitsofstone,or theriver,butinallthebackwaterstoo. whateverhecouldfind.Andthecarpwould Areallylowriversometimescalledfor goalongandtheydribbletheirmouthinthe I’veseenfishinallthesestreams.Theyseem ingenuityaboutthebestfishinggeartouse. mudandtheyupsettheeggs.Theyprobably togoupthemall,especiallyinthehigh Therewasabigdeepholeandtherewastwo eattheeggs.Theyupsetthecatfish’nests. rivers.Therewasawaterholeoutinthe greatbigcodinthewater.Theywere Hencethey’regone.Ohyes,theyspoiltthe placeIwasworkingatBrewarrina.Whenthe doomedbecausethewaterwaspretty Darling.Whichisabigshame,Ithink. riverreachedacertainheight,assoonasit stagnant.Wegotinwithtenniscourt wasupnearthetopofthebanks,thewater netting,youknow,thebigsixͲfoothigh ranintoit,therewasfishinit.Assoonasit netting?Therewasaguyoneithersideof stopped,wellyou’dgobacktotheholesand thehole.Webroughtthemupintothe you’dstillgetafairfewfishout. shallowsandgotinthereandwejust draggedthefishout.Oh,big,massivebig fish. Whenconditionsaresuitablecarpcanmassintheir thousands.Gaspingactivityatthewatersurfaceis 15 actuallythemfeedingonzooplankton. Photo:NathanReynoldson.
178 PhillipParnabyagreeswithGordonthatthe Histo carphadanimpactonparticularfishinthe ry o river. Whywerecarpbroughtintof CAustralia?a rp There was catfish, we used to catch a fair DuringtheearlydaysofsettlementmanyFAQdifferent typesofanimalsandplantswereintroducedsinto fewcatfish,rightupuntilthecarpcame AustraliainanattempttoimitateaEuropean alongandthatsortofprettywellbuggered environment.Carpwereseenasagoodsportandfood thecatfish. fish. DwayneWilloughbyisnotoldenoughto When did carp arrive in Australia? remembertheDarlingwithoutcarp,buthetoo ThefirstrecordsofcarpinAustraliawerefromVictoria hasseenthechangesthattheyhavecaused. in1859andNSWin1865wheretheywerereleased intoponds.Duringthe1900scarpwerereleasedinto I’veseenchangeswiththepopulationinfish. 1974floodlevelsattheBourkeBridge.Photosource: thewildbutdidnotbecomewidespread. WhenIwasfishingasakid,youcouldgo BourkePublicLibrary. ManyearlynewspaperaccountsintheBasinaround down,catchyellowbelly,takeithome,have theturnofthe20thCenturyrefertocarpbeing itfordinner.Nowyou’dcatch20carp. widespread and abundant, however these reports are referringto‘goldencarp’orgoldfish(Carassius auratus). CarpspreadintheBasinaftertheywerereleasedinto theMurrayatMildurain1964.Theirreleaseand spreadcoincidedwithwidespreadfloodingintheearly 1970s,buttheiruseaslivebaitprobablyalsohelped. Istherejustonetypeofcarp? Therearemanyspeciesofcarp,andthefishiswidely farmedoverseasforfood.InAustraliathereareatleast threestrainsoftheonespecies,Cyprinuscarpio. Geneticstudieshaveshownthereweretwostrainsin Australiapriortotheirexpansionin1964:the Carp move around in shoals in the shallow water of 2010floodlevelsattheBourkeBridge.Photo:ScottNichols. ‘Prospect’straininSydneyand‘Yanco’straininthe wetlands when they are looking to spawn. Often a MurrumbidgeeIrrigationArea.Howeveritisthe single female is chased by a number of males. ‘Boolara’strainfromafarminGippslandthatwas Photo:LukePearce. releasedatMilduraandisnowthemostwideͲspread.13
179 Phil Sullivan – the River’s the essence PhilSullivan,aMurawari andNgembaman,was A bornin1960inBrewarrina. borigi In1966thefamilymoved Ngunnhu, the Brewarrinanal Fisheries, are built fishe betweenDodgeCityin overalengthoftheriverwheretheribedes falls townandacampatBilly steeply,sothatthetrapslieondifferentlevels, with some underwater even in dry conditions GoatBendontheDarling. Ͳ Ͳ ensuringharvestsinallbuttheworstdroughts. BothplacesarenearNgunnhu,the In1842Aboriginalownershipwasrecognisedin Brewarrinafishtraps.Philremembers thegazettalofoneoftheearliestreservesinthe fishingthereasayoungster. state,coveringNgunnhuandasquaremileof adjacentland.ThegazettalprohibitednonͲ LocalAboriginalpeopleknewtheirfisheriessowell There was good fishing there. Once the Aboriginalpeoplefromfishingthere.Thelocal theyexplainedthenamesofeachofthestonepensto watergotuptoacertainheightthefishjust Aboriginalpeopleandthepoliceenforcedthis SurveyorA.W.Mullenwhodocumentedthemin1906.3 4, 16 4 swamin.Iftherivergotuptoohighoverthe lawuntil,atleast,1906. Photosource:Goodall1996. fishtraps,itwastoostrongthen.They DamagetoNgunnhuoccurredinthemid1800s couldn’t catch them with their hands any whenstoneswereremovedtobuildaroad more,sotheyhadtochuckthelineinto acrosstheriver.Aweirwasthenbuiltontopof catchthem.They’restillcatchingtheminthe Gurrungga(thewaterhole)itselfin1972. fishtrapsrightnow. Atthetimeanattemptwasalsomadetoinstalla Ngunnhuhavealwaysbeenatthecentreof fishwayovertheweirbydynamitingasectionof Aboriginaleconomicandsociallife.Its Ngunnhu.BothAboriginalpeopleandlocalwhite fishers were critical of this ineffective fish abundantfishprovidedresourcesforthe passage. Ngiyampaa,theirneighbours,theMurawari andYuwalaraay,andforlargeceremonial Theweirisenjoyedasaswimmingpooland picnic site, repeating the role that the perennial gatherings when many Aboriginal people waterholeGurrunggahadfilledforcenturies. couldcampoverforeventssuchasthe 2 The Darling River. Photo source: Wellbeing Project DECCW. initiationofyoungmen.
1860 1853 Rivertransport Adozensteamboatsworkingtheriveranditstributaries SSMaryAnnmakesfirsttripfromGoolwatoMoama 180 The sweet things Highs and lows Fishingwasalwaysafamilyaffair. OvertheyearsPhilhasseenhowthestateof the river affects everyone who lives in Bourke Allthefamilyusedtogo.There’sMumand myself,thesecondyoungest,mysister’sthe andBrewarrina.Thehighsandlowsofthe youngestoneandmybrotherwastheeldest. riverarealsothehighsandlowsofthetown. Itwasalwaysusfour,andalltheother InthedroughtthecrimerateinBourkewas familywouldcomealong.Extendedfamily wayup,andthemomenttheraincame,and wouldcomeandwe’djustsitdownonthe theriverrose,thecrimeratewentdown, bankalldayfishing. becauseeverybodyhadthatconnectiontothe Thiswasalwaysatimeoflearningforthe river.Whenwegetabigrainafteradrought youngergeneration.Notjustaboutfishand everyonewentstraighttotheriver.You’renot just seeing blackfellas sitting on the river, you fishing,butalsoabouttheriver,theplants seekidssittingontheriverbank,whitefellas, thatgrewarounditandtheothersortsof policeofficers,DOCSofficers,everybody: animals that also depended on the water. Ngunnhu,thefishtraps,arestillusedtodaytocatch fishing.It’stheessenceofourphysicallife, fish. Aboriginal people today continue to use the Wewouldallgoandfish.Buttherewasalot particularlytoAboriginalpeople.Withoutit, sametechnologiesofstonepenstostorefishfor ofotherthingsthathappened.Ifitwastoo we’redone.We’redead.Soitjustdrawsus. shortperiodsaftertheyhavecaughttheminthe hot, we’d just jump in the river and have a maintraps.Heresomemodernadjustments(above) Anotherlocal,PhillipParnaby,alsoremembers swim.Wewouldgolookingforotherlittle ensureagoldenperch(below)doesn’tescape. howfreshesandsmallfloodswouldturnthe Photossource:PhilSullivan. stuff.Maybesomequandongtreesifthey weir into the social hub of the town. wereinfruit.Irememberonedaytheold fellasmusthavebeencheckingtheweather, WeusedtogodowntheBourkeweirwhenthe checkingthetimeoftheyearandtheycame riverwasrisingandwe’dallfishdownthere. acrossanativebeehive.Theyjustrippedthe Beforetherivergottoohightheyellowbelly barkoffandtherewasallthishoney.Allthe wereallhangingaroundbelowtheweir kidsweretheredoingabitoffishingand waitingforthewalltogoundersothatthey gettingsomenativebeehoney.Itwasjust couldmoveupstream.Youcouldcatch15or awesomethatday.Thathappenedright 20inaday.Therewouldbe100peopledown backintheearly‘60swhenIwasalittlefella. theredoingthesamething.
181 Phil’scousin,AlmaͲJeanSullivan,is renownedasoneofthebestfishersonthe DarlingRiver.Shealsonoticedthatthe 1970sboughtchangestothedistrict. Itwas1976,'77Ithinktheygotcottonin Bourke.Whentheyputallthecottoninand allthepumpsin,theytookallourwaterout oftheriver.Sothatwasabigchangeforthe riverbecauseeverytimewegotarisefrom upͲriver,theyusedtopumpthatwaterout Alma Jean Sullivan ready to fish at the Bourke Weir. Ͳ beforeitgothere.AndthenallouryellowͲ Photosource:WellbeingProjectDECCW. belliesweregone.Therewerehardlyanyfish A little fish… bitingintheriverbecauseallofthefishwere beingsuckedintothepumps. Fishandotheranimalsbenefitfromavailabilityofnew Inthe1960sand‘70s,PhilSullivan habitatsduringfloodslikethoseof2010,especially when it gets out onto the floodplain (above). Birds like remembers the Darling for its abundance of ibistakeadvantageofsubmergedlignumbushesto fish. maketheirnestssafefrompredators(below).Photos source:PhilSullivan. Catfish.BlackBream.Cod.Yellowbelly,they arethemainfour.Therewasthislittlefish,a blackfish,itusedtobeinthebulrushesalong besidetheriver. Philthinksthatthefloodsinthe1970s– particularlythe1974flood–completely changedtheriver. LargescaledevelopmentslikethisoneinQldand Itwasafterthe1974floodthattheriver NSWareoftenblamedfortakingtoomuchwater. startedtochange.WhenIcamebackfrom Photo:ScottNichols. school,thelittleblackfishwasnotthere anymore.Thebulrushesweretheirhabitat.It hadgone.Itwasagoodlittleeatingfish. Catfish,notthereanymore.Blackbream: veryrare. 182 Phillip Parnaby – Grandfather, father and father-in-law Phillip,now53,wasborn A different Anzac tradition The grass is always greener andbredinBourke, Inthe1960sand1970s,AnzacDaywasa Asyoungkidsinacountrytown,Phillipand growingupwithhisseven specialdayofcelebrationforthewarveterans hismateshadtomaketheirownfun. brothersandsistersa thatlivedinBourke.LikemostAustralian coupleofblocksfromthe Wehadaprettygoodlife.WhenIwastenor townsthedawnservicewasfollowedbya river.Phillipwenttohigh twelve,therewasplentytodo.Thegrassis paradeandthentwo–upattheRSLorthe schoolinBourke,then alwaysgreenerontheothersideoffence. pub.Aboriginalreturnedservicemenwere straighttoworkatthe Wewouldseepeoplewithnewpushbikes invitedtomarchintheAnzacDayparade,but andthatsortofthing.Therewaseightofus localmeatworksbeforebecomingthe wereexcludedfromenteringtheRSL:then,or inthefamilysotherewasn’talotofmoney milkman30yearsago. atanyothertimeoftheyear.5Phillip’sPopdid togoaround.Butwehadtheriverandthere washeapsofentertainment. Shoosh! notmarch. HehadabrotherwhowasaFirstWorldWar Othermembersofthefamilyalsofished– AlthoughhethinksitwashisDadthat veterantoo.PopwasAborigine.Andinthe butusuallynotontheirownlikePhillip’s taught him to fish, it was his Pop who he beginninghedidn’tgotoAnzacDay.Heused Pop.InsteadPhillipremembersthatthey remembers as the family fisherman. togofishinginstead.He’dgoawayonhisown fishedinbigfamilygroups. My first memories of fishing are when I was thewholeday,probablyjustbecauseofthe WeusedtogowithDad.He’dgoandseta probably four or five year old. My memories.Heusedtofishoffthebankand fewlinesandwe’dcatchafewcod.My grandfather, who was a World War One alsohe’drowandusespinnerstoo.He’drow brother,Robert,who’stenyearsolderthan veteran, used to go fishing but he wouldn’t upanddowntheriverallday. me,he’sabigfishermantoo.LaterImarried take us because we were too noisy. He’d AnnMarieandherfatherwasakeen come back with some of the biggest cod that fisherman.Weusedtodoalotoffishing I’ve seen. Mum would tell us stories about together.Whenthekidswerelittle,we’d Pop. He’d drop Mum and Nanna off and then packupandallgooutfishing,campingfor he’d go up the river and fish because they’d theweekend.Itcouldbeanythingupto10or be too noisy. 12ofus. PhillipteachinghissonWilliamabouttheriver. Photosource:PhillipParnaby. 183 Seeingthechangesintheriveroverhis I lifetimemakesPhillipwonderaboutthe mport longertermdryandwetcyclesoftheriver. FlowsintheBarwonancͲDarlinge arehighlyvariable, with90%ofallflowsretained of intheriverchannel, In 1938 the river was dry here. The Bourke va andonly10%reachingthefloodplain.riab weirpoolwentdryandtheyhadtodiga ilit Fishandotheraquaticplantsandanimalsyhave trench from up river to get the water back adaptedtothisvariabilityandrelyonittosurvive. downtotheBourkeweirpooltoreplenishit. Native fish use increases in flow as cues to MumlivedbetweenBourkeandtheweir.It undertakespawningmigrationsandtoaccess gotthatdrytheretheyhadtheirgoatsover differenthabitats,suchasfloodplainchannelsand theothersideoftheriverlookingforfood. wetlands. Theymusthavehadmassiverainupnorth Theflowinarivercontrolsthemovementof CampingandfishingtripsontheDarlinggavePhillipa somewhereanditcamedownlikeabigwall materialslikesediment,nutrientsandorganic chancetospendtimewithhisextendedfamily. of water. She said they could hear it coming. matterandcreatescharacteristicssuchasdeep Photosource:PhillipParnaby. Theyhadtogoacrossandgetthe20goats holes,sandbars,undercuts,andbenches(flat back.Inthelast50yearstheriverhasnever sectionsoftheriveredge).Theseallprovide Changes beendrylikethatbetweenBourkeandthe habitatfordifferentplantsandanimals. Phillip’sseentheriverinalldifferentkinds weir.Must’vebeenamassivedroughtin‘38. Thelinkbetweenthefloodplainandriveris ofconditions.Inthe1990sdroughtstarted almostentirelydependentonvariationsinflow. todryouttheriver.Theeffectsofthewater InmuddyriversliketheDarling,lightcan’tenter storagesandirrigationupstreamstartedto thewatercolumntogreatdepths,meaningthe growth of water plants is limited. Here snags showupintheDarlingaroundBourke. providemuchofthestructuralhabitatforfish. Well,youcouldseeitinthewater,itgoes Inthistypeofsystemorganicmaterialfromthe clear,right?Andthenit’llgetstagnantand floodplainbecomesanimportantsourceof thealgaecamein.Youcouldseethegreens nutrientstotheplantsandanimalslivinginthe andthebrowncomingin,you’dknowthenit riveritself. wasn’thealthy. Riverregulation(damsandweirs)anddiversionof water (irrigation) decreases the variability of flows andthereforelimitsopportunitiesfordifferent floodplainhabitatstobeaccessibleandmaterials UnloadingcargoatBourkeduringalowDarling. exchanged.14 Photosource:WentworthPublicSchoolviaWentworthHistorical Society. 184 Dwayne Willoughby – A Beemery shack for family and fishing Dwaynewasbornin We’renotoutthereeveryweekandwecatch Italsoallowsthemtoseewhatthechanges Bourkein1976andhas andreleaseeverything,anyway.We’re intheriveraredoingtothefish. prettyluckytobefishinginthesesortof livedthereallhislife. Sometimes you’ll get a cod that will have a areas. Familyhasalwaysbeen fewlittlesores,they’relikealittlemite,from centraltoDwayne’s whatwecanfindoutaboutthem.Wethink fishing,sincetheveryfirst thattheyarejustaparasite. daythathelearntto threadawormontoa hookandcastoutintotheDarlingRiver. Myfirstmemoriesweresittingtherewithmy NanandPopandthemsayingtoleavethe wormonthehook,andleaveitintheriver.I kept pulling it out to see if I had a fish on the endoftheline.ThatwasatimewhenI Ananchorworm(Lernaeaspp.)isjustoneofthe alwaysgottositwithmyNanandPopand parasitesfoundonfish. Photosource:http://www.heems.nl/arob0409.htm. haveagoodoldyarntothem,bitofatalk.I Ayellowsheeptagattachedtothetailallowsthiscod usedtoaskathousandquestions. toberecognisedifitgetscaughtagain.Photo:Dwayne Willoughby. Changing colours Heandhisfamilyhaveafishingshackat TheDarlingRiverisfamousforthechanging Beemery–abouthalfwaybetweenBourke Sheep tags and fish andBrewarrina.Theyheadoutonweekends coloursofitswaters–frommilkyteacolour andschoolholidayswiththetinnieandthe Dwayneandhisfamilyhavealways insteadyflow,toclearandgreenasthe campovenandasmanykidsanddogsas preferredtocatchcodandyellowbelly.They waterslows,tomuddyanddarkwhen theycangetintothecars. normallytakeoneortwosmallerfishtoeat upstreamfloodsbringragingwaters. andletthebigonesgobacktotheriver. It’sreallygreatsnagsupthatway.It’swhere Thecoloursdependonwhichupstreamriver Theyphotographmostofthebigonesandin theBoganrunsintotheDarling.We’repretty isinfloodandcarryingthesiltdown, thepastfiveyearshavemarked47fishwith luckyupthereͲit’swhatwecallvirgin whetherit'stheblacksoilfromtheeastern sheeptags.Thatwaytheycantellfor territory.Ithasn’tbeenoverfished,whichis plainsortheredsoilfromthewest.Phil themselveswhichfishliveinthereaches whywe’rereallylucky.Wedon’ttendto Sullivanexplainssomeofthedifferences: overfishiteither. aroundtheshack. 185 WhenitrainedinBourke.Niceandclear. Sharing Fish Beautiful.Drinkablewater.Youcould pa actuallyputyourheaddownthereanddrink Althoughtheymostlyreleasefishbackinto Anumberofparasitesandrdiseasesasit affectnative andintroducedfish.Oneofthemorees visibleisan it.Notmurkyandmuddy.Ifitwaswater theriver,theWilloughbyfamilystillliketo ‘anchorworm’(Lernaeaspp).Anchorwormsare fromthetopendcomingdown,thenitwas takesomefishtoeat. actuallyanectoparasticcopepod,whichmeans the dirty coloured water. All the time we go fishin, we’ve only taken theyareaparasitelivingontheoutsideofthefish andareactuallyatypeoftinycrustacean(likea fourorfivefishoutofthewaterthere.One craborshrimp). year,twoweredonatedtothelocalgolfclub for a pro am. We also do try to give a fish to Lernaeaspp.progressthrough3freeswimminglife Ͳ stagesbeforeenteringafishthroughitsgills.When theRivergumLodge,theoldpeople’shome sexuallymature,thefemalesarefertilisedand onceayear. move to the fish’s skin where they secure PhilSullivanalsorememberssharinghis themselvesbyburyingtheirnowanchorͲshaped headintotheskin.Wherethefemaledetaches catcharound. fromthefish,aninfectioncanoccur,leadingto 11 Itwasaboutus.Itwasaboutnotjustthe ulcerations. family–myimmediatefamily–butitwas Like all parasites, their abundance is often a sign of ClearwaterattheBourkeWeir.Photosource:Wellbeing aboutallofus.
stressforthehost.Alongtermstudyoffish ProjectDECCW. communitiesintheLowerDarlingnotedan increaseinproportionoffishaffectedbyanchor Dwaynehasnoticedthatthecolourofthe wormbetween1994and2009,11butlowerlevels waterchangesthecolourofthefish. in2010.12 Whenitwasdryacoupleofyearsagothe codwerenotaverydarkcolour.Iknowin thelast12months,becauseoftheflowsin thewater,theynowhavearealdark appearance.Theyhavechanged.Idon’t knowwhybuttheyareadifferentcolourto whenthere’safreshinthewater.We sometimesgotoaplacecalledBlackRocks andthere’ssomeverydeepwateraround Snagsareanimportantoftheriver,providing there.Idon’tknowiftheygetdownintothe protectionandbreedingsitesfornativefishlike goldenperchandMurraycod.Photo:DavidCordina. rocks,intothedeepwaterandjustsitthere. Abigcodwithwhatareprobablyulcerationsfrom Butthecodtherearenearlyblack. parasiticLernaea.Photo:DwayneWilloughby. 186 Dwayneandhisfamilysticktothemainriver channel–evenwhenthewaterfillsallthe Fish lagoons, wetlands and creeks that run into and Fishtaggingprogramsarewidely chusedi inscientific theDarling.Heexplainswhytheydon’tfish studiesasameansofkeepingtrackpofsfish movements. inthebackwaters: Thereareseveraltypesoftagsinuse–external,internal Weleavethat,becausethat’swherethey’re microchips(passiveintegratedtransponderor‘PIT’)tags and radio transmitters. breeding,upintheshallowlagoons.That’s notforme,youknow.It’salwaysbeenthe Bothexternaltagsandmicrochips(PITtags)needthe river.Wedon’ttouchthelagoons.That’s fishtobecaughtorpassincloseproximitytoan beenpasseddownthatthelagoonsarethe automaticPITtagreaderinorderforittobeidentified. fish’sbreedingground.That’syourbread Radiotransmittersallowfishmovementstoberecorded andbutterforfuturefishing. withouthumaninterference(otherthantheinitial LikeDwayne’ssheeptags,externaltags(being captureandtransmitterinsertion).Asthename inserted–toprighthandcornerandcircledabove) suggests,fishfittedwithradiotransmittersemitasignal allowfishersandscientiststoidentifyindividualfish. thatcanbepickedupatpermanentormobile Caremustbetakenwhentaggingallfishasthe monitoringstationsanddownloadedtoaresearcher’s woundcaneasilybecomeinfected.Photos:NSWDPI. computer. Fisharebeingexternallytaggedaspartofthe BrewarrinatoBourkeDemonstrationReachprojectto determinewhathabitatstheypreferandwherethey move.Ifyoucatchataggedfish,pleaseletNSWDPI knowbyvisitingourwebsitetoenterthetagdetailsat: www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/research/fishingͲaquaculture.
DarlingRiverinflowatBrewarrinaWeir,submerging Ngunnhu.Dwaynelikestofishuptherivercloserto Brewarrinatoo.Photo:ScottNichols. AntiͲclockwisefromtopright:Internalmicrochips, Goldenperchwithayellowexternaltagnearitsdorsalfin shownbeinginsertedintothefish’sbodycavity (circled)whichwillhaveauniquenumberandcontact underanaesthetic,canalsobeusedtoidentifyfish detailsforyoutogetintouchwithresearchers. usinghandheldscanners(bottomright)orasfishpass Photo:NSWDPI. scanningstationslocatedinfishways.Photos:NSWDPI. 187 Making connections FeliMcHughesisaNgembamanona Hisexampleshowshowthestoriesare mission.Hewantstocontinueto aboutplacesandpeopleatthesametime. Gol rehabilitate the Old Brewarrina Mission den Hetalksaboutplacesashavingbrothersand (MacquariaambiguaͲ pcallop,ercyellowbelly, WetlandwiththeNgembaBillabong sistersinthenetworkofconnections Murrayperch,whiteperch)h RestorationandLandcareGroupand throughthestoriesͲandalsoaboutliving x Growsto76cmand23kg,butusuallylessthan integrateitintootheractivitiesforthelocal people,whosefamilyresponsibilitieslink 40cm 6 Aboriginalpeople. themtoplacesandtootherlivingcreatures. x Likeswarmer,slowmovingwaterways,floodplain lakes About15yearsagooneofthegovernment Ithinktraditionally,everyonewouldhave x Foundaroundfallentimber,undercutbanks, agenciesdecidedtopumpwaterintoa hadaresponsibility.Myfamily’stotemwas rockyledges billabongthatwastwokilometreslong,just theyellowbelly,andsoourresponsibility Occupy a territory of about 100m for several toseewhatwouldhappen.Wehadno towardstheYellowbellywasinthewater,in x monthsbeforemovingtoanewhomerange scienceoranything.Wejustallowedthe theriverandeverythingabouttheriver.That billabongtodemonstrateit’snaturalforces. wouldentaillookingaftertheriver,butalso x Knowntomigrateover1000kminspringand summer Itwasawakenedandnatureseemedto lookingafterthesisterwho’stotemwasthe understandthatsomethingwashappening littlelilyontheriver.Therewasacirclethat x Migrationcuedbywarmerwaterandrisingwater there.Sobirdsandfishandallthe neverstopped.Thereedsmighthavebeen levels appropriatewildlifearoundbillabongs important,ormaybe,therewasa x Eggsdriftdownstreamonfloodwaters startedtogetinvolvedagain.Itdawnedon responsibilitytolookaftertheBrolga.The x Eatshrimp,yabbies,smallfishandaquaticinsect methatbillabongswereveryimportantpart riverhasalwaysbeenimportantbecauseit larvae oftheriversystem.I’msayingthatitactually holdstheessenceoflife,whichisthewater. developsantibioticsfortherivers’immune system.Shouldthebillabongsbeactivated, ThroughhisjobwithBourkeShireCouncil thentheriver’simmunesystemwillhavea DwayneWilloughbyhasbeenabletohelp chancetodevelopandgetstrongerandthen withsomeoftheprogramsgoingoninthe wehaveahealthierriver. areaincludingtheBourketoBrewarrina DemonstrationReachproject.Hesays: Circle that never stops WehadabigprogramdoingareͲsnagging project in Bourke. It was great for the river. PhilSullivanexplainedthespecialNgembaͲ Murawarirelationshipthathisfamilyhave YellowbellycaughtatBourke.Source:WellbeingProject DECCW. withtheyellowbelly. 188 We need to protect fish MickDavislivesonafamilyfarmonthe DarlingRiverabout40minutesouttothe westofBourke.Theyhavefarmstay accommodationthatattractsfishersfromall overAustralia. Weneedtoprotectthefishthatarethere. Andprotectthebanksandthewater.The waterisneededforhouseholdpurposes, stockanddomesticuse.Ibelieveoncethe rivercomesdownwell,theflowcanrun,fill ThisinstallationatBrewarrinaInformationCentre FeliMcHughesseestherehabilitationofNgemba upquicker.WhatDaveCordina’stryingtodo showshowimportantthefishandfishtrapsareto Billabongaspartoftheprocessindevelopinga nowistogetgoodfishwaysalltheway thelocalcommunity.Photo:ScottNichols. healthierriver.Photo:FeliMcHughes. through.Ithinkthat’sveryimportant. Aboriginalcommunityorganizationshave If you catch a fish it’s a bonus successfully undertaken rebuilding programs Dwayneexplainswhatitisthatheloves with young people working to restore the aboutfishingwithhisfamily. remainingfishtraps.TodaytheAboriginal MuseuminBrewarrinaretellsthestoryof Ijustlikethewideopenspacesandyoucan Ngunnhu'screationanditsongoing forgetaboutthings.It’sagoodtimeto relievestress,Isuppose.WhenIwasakidit importancetotheNgiyampaaandto wasabitdifferent,itwasthethrillof everyoneoftheregion.Aboriginalpeople catchingafish,thrillofjustbeingoutinthe todaytakeanactiveroleintheannual outback.Youcouldpickuparock,throwitin BrewarrinaFestivaloftheFisheries,with thewater,orgetastickandlightafire.But celebratedMurawarielder,thelateEssie nowit’schanged.Itsgreatjusttogetaway Coffey,sayingin2000abouttheir andrelaxandlayonthebanks,listentothe participationinthisevent: birdlife,acoupleofcoldbeersandgood Justbeingonthebanksoftheriverrelaxesyou. mates.Wealwaysseemtohavegoodmates Photo:JodiFrawley. TheKuristhemselveswantedtodo whenwegoout.Ilikebeingwithmyfamily. somethingbecausethisisourfisheries,our 7 Ifyoucatchafishit’sabonus. fishtraps. 189 Visions for the Upper Darling
Thefishingpeoplewhocontributedtothis It’shardbecausetherulesdon’tgetenforced projecthavealltalkedabouttheirhopesfor alotouthereduetoourlocality.Weshould Dancing the billabong’s tune thefutureoftheriver.Manyfelttheyhad continuetoeducatethepeopleaboutcatch FeliMcHughesseestheinterconnectedness seensomeimprovementsbutmostdon't andreleasefishing.Ithinkalotofpeoplejust oftheanimalsintheriverasavitallink. feeltheriverisashealthyyetastheywould takeitonboardandsay,“oh,ok,we’rein Ithinkthatfishwillhavetheirnaturalrolein liketoseeit.Eachofthesefisherssuggested thesameboat,we’vegottoreleasethefish because we want to be able to come back thefutureofthebillabong.We’restillto waystohelptheriverandinturnhelp hereinanotherfiveyearsandcatchone.” definewhatthatis,butlikeanything,the providehealthyhabitatsforfish. swallows,therainbowbirds,frogs,thetrees andtheweeds,andthegrasses,wellfishfits Water is the essence inwiththatwholeprocess.They’rean It’s a big thing to us integral part. If one little bit’s missing, then PhilSullivanisadelegateontheNorthern thebillabongisn’tcomplete.Soweneedto BasinAboriginalNationgroupthatare PhillipParnabyownsoneofthemotelsin makesurethateveryoneisdancingtothe working with the Murray Darling Basin NorthBourkeandunderstandsthata Ͳ billabong’stune. Authority. healthyriverwillmeanthatmanydifferent sorts of people can stay in the Darling River ForAboriginalpeople,wateristheessence. Weargueandfightnotbecausethere’san area. economicbaseforus,weargueandfight Isaywehavegottolookaftertheriver becausewehavearesponsibility.Wewant becauseit’sabigthingforus.It’sabigthing tolookafterthewater,lookaftertheriver, forourfuture.Twoofmysonsareheavy andlookaftereverythingaroundit.Weget vehiclemechanicsoncottonfarms.So,it’s obstreperousandrowandarguebecausewe giventhemafuture.Andmyotherson,one seeitbeingdestroyed,wedoseeitbeing runsamilkrun,andonehashisowntruck. abused.Wedoseeitinasadway,youknow. So,itallcreatesanindustryofBourke.I Notgoodway. believethatwhenthefishingpeoplecometo fish, they come to see the outback. And it’s TheBourkeandBrewarrinaareasdonot allgottobesustainableorwewon’thave havetoomanyfishinginspectors.Dwayne Bourke. Willoughbythinksthatonewaytoensure Everythingisinterconnected–fishareanimportant thatpeopledotherightthingoftheirown foodsourceformanycreaturesincludingtheelusive waterrat,whosetracksinthemudaretheonlything accordisthrougheducation. togiveitspresenceaway.Photo:ScottNichols. 190 The people’s river Stat - poo AlmaͲJeanSullivanisaWangkumarawoman e o r’ TheSustainablef thRiversAudit(SRA)isanongoing whohasareputationacrossthewholeof e riv systematicassessmenteofrriver ‘mhealthof23majorriver theWesternplainsforherprowessasa valleysintheMurrayͲDarlingBasin.oderEnvironmentala fisher.Acalendarwithherfishingtipshas indicators(themes)includehydrology,tfishe and beenreprintedthreetimesandthe'Paroo macroinvertebrates,whicharemonitoredandwill highlight trends over time.8 The Darling Valley was Queen'haswonthelocalfishing surveyedin2005.TheDarlingValleyfishcommunityin competitionforanumberofyears,beating the‘UpperZone’wasconsideredtobeinPoor otherrecreationalfishersfromfarandwide. ConditionandEcosystemHealthoverallinModerate Conditionwithinthiszone. Whenaskedin1997howtherivermightbe fixed,shereplied: Alittleunderhalfthenativespeciespredictedforthis zonewerecollectedduringsurveying(47%)withalien Well,Iwouldstopthecottonforastart.I'd fishcomprisingjustoveronethirdthefishbiomass juststopthemtakingsomuchwaterout.Let (35%). themtakethewateroutwhentherisegets Bonyherringdominatedthefishcatchduring downproperly.Whentheriseisgettingto sampling,withAustraliansmelt,carpgudgeonand theDarlingRiver,theystartpumpingthe spangledperchalsonumerous.Goldenperchand waterout.Andittakessomuchwater, MurrayͲDarlingrainbowfishwerealsocommon.Three millionsandmillionsofgallonsofwaterout alienspecies,Easterngambusia,goldfish,andcarp were captured frequently. oftheriver,intothechannelsandIdon't thinkthatisright.I’dliketoseethemstop thepumping,letthewatercomedown,give thefishabitofabreak,getusedtoitandlet thetownpeoplegetbackwhatisours!It's foreveryone,notjustforAboriginalpeople, butforwhitepeopletoo.It’salovelyriver whenit’srunning...sothepeopleshould haveafairgo. The‘people’sriver’.Photos:WellbeingProjectDECCW,sourced Easterngambusia(circled)areapestfishnowfound fromPhilSullivan. throughouttheBasin.Theywereintroducedtocontrol mosquitoes,ajobactuallydonemuchbetterbynative gudgeons.Photo:CharlieCarruthers. 191191
Source:ColinLeigo. Source:RonHeinemann. Source:GregRingwood. Source:GregRingwood 192 BerylandColinLeigo.Colinhaslivedall hislifealongtheParooRiver,asdidhis parents.Heremembersthehousehe grewupinbeingrightonthebanksof theParooRiverforeasyaccesstowater andthefish.Photo:GregRingwood. Douglas–DougieͲMacGregorhaslived inCunnamullafor82years.Beinginthe transportationbusinessgavehimthe abilitytogototheriverandfish regularly.Photo:GregRingwood. RonHeinemann’sfirstmemories associatedwithParooincludelotsof largefloods.Theyusedtobecutofffora weekorsoatatimeduetoflood.Photo source:RonHeinemann.
RonGardiner’s(seated,right)first memoryoftheParooisbeingtaughtto swimbybeingthrowninbyoneofhis teachers.Fortunatelymemoriesofbeing taughttofishbyhisgrandmotherare lesstraumaticandledtoalifeͲlong passionforfishing.Picturedherewithhis wifeBridget(standing),andRonand HazelHeinemann(bothseated).Photo: HamishSewell. 193
‘Butwhere,'saidI,''sthebloomingstream?' Andhereplied,'We'reatit!' Istoodawhile,asinadream, 'GreatScott!'Icried,'isthatit? 'Why,thatissomeoldbridleͲtrack!' Hechuckled,'Well,Inever! 'It'snearlytimeyoucameoutͲback— 'ThisistheParooRiver!' TheParooͲHenryLawson(1893) 194 Introducing the river and its people Created by a spirit TheParooRiveristhelastremainingfree Theriverhasalwaysbeenverysignificantto Intheancientdreaming,theMoonagutta flowingtributaryoftheMurrayͲDarling theAboriginalpeople.Theregionhasadry wasawaterspiritwithunknownshapeand Basin.Its76000squarekilometrecatchment climateandtheriverisalifeline.Theriver size.Heliveddeepinthewaterholesalong islocatedinthenorthͲwesterncornerofthe remainsawatersupplyforthepeopleliving theriver.Infacttheriverwasmadebythe MurrayͲDarlingBasin,halfinQueenslandand inthecatchment,butitisalsoachannelthat Moonagutta.TheMoonaguttabecamethe halfinNewSouthWales.TheParoostartsin bindsthecommunitiestogether.Itprovides onlyspiritandsoulleft,wigglinginthesilt thegorgesoftheWarregoRangeinwestern water,foodandhopeforthecreationofa leftnexttotherecedingwater,after Queensland.Aftercrossingtheborderinto comfortablelife.Peoplegatheralongthe swallowingalltheotherMoonagutta.He NewSouthWalesitspreadsoverthevast riverbanksandwaterholestorelaxinthe startedtoshapethefirstriversoflife floodplainsnearWanaaring,helpingto shade,maybegoinghomewithameal throughthetractshecreatedwhenhetried sustainmanysignificantwetlands.About obtainedfromtheriver:yellowbelly,codor toescapefromthefloodwaters.Whenhe 600kmlateritreachesitsoverflowlakes yabbies. cametoasandystretch,hewasabletobury betweenTilpaandWilcannia.Althoughone downdeeperandcreatedthewaterholes.1 ofthemajortributariesoftheDarlingRiver, theParoorarelyflowsintoitbecauseits TheMaranganji,Kalali,Badjiri,Parundjiand watersdissipatebeforetheyreachit. Kunggaripeopleestablishedthemselvesin theParooandthesurroundingcatchments Over20000yearsago,theMaranganji, approximately20000yearsago.TheParoo Kalali,Badjiri,ParundjiandKunggaripeople Rivergetsitsnamefromavariationonthe knewaverydifferentParooRiver.Acooler nameofanAboriginalPaakantjigroup,the climate,markedlydifferentplantsand Parundji. animalsand,probably,ariverthatflowed constantly.1Sincethen,ahotterclimateand otherchangesmeanttheParoohasbecome anephemeralriver. TheParooRiver.Photo:GregRingwood.
195 The arrival of the Europeans An TheParooͲWarregocatchmentsweren’t unre explored by Europeans until 1845. Thomas gula ted r Mitchellpassedthroughtheregionin1846. iver By1862,therewerealreadysome establishedpastoralstationsinthearea. Onesettlementarosebesideareliable waterholeattheintersectionoftwomajor stockroutes.Thissettlementbecame th Cunnumullainthelate19 century. TransportingsheepacrosstheParooforshearingin UntiltheendoftheSecondWorldWar,the Willarain1935.Photosource:ColinLeigo. areahadasmallnumberoflargepastoral ThefreeͲflowingParooRiver.Photo:GregRingwood. stationsandasmallpopulation.Afterthe The Paroo River is the last remaining free flowing and war,withtheincreaseinwoolprices,the Fishinghasbeenveryimportantactivityfor Ͳ unregulated river in the northern Murray Darling Basin areaexperiencedsignificanteconomicand Ͳ thelocalcommunity.FortheAboriginal andislikelytostaythatway.In2001theQueensland populationgrowth. peopleandearlysettlersfishingwasadaily Governmentappliedamoratoriumonnewstructures Beefcattlegrazingandsheepforwool activityprovidingastablediet. thatcouldcaptureoverlandflow.In2003,the Queensland and NSW Governments signed an production are still the two predominant Inlatertimes,wettingalinehasbecomea intergovernmentalagreementtomanagetheParoo’s industriesinthecatchment.Therearevery significantleisureactivity.Peoplelivingalong waterresourcesinasustainableandculturallysensitive few,smallͲscaleirrigatedcropoperations. theriverhaveunforgettableandintimate manner,recognisingthecrossͲbordernatureofthe 5 Duetothesmallirrigationindustryandthe memoriesoftheriver,thefishtheycaught catchmentanditslinkswiththesubͲartesianwaters. sparsepopulation,demandonfreshwater and‘theonesthatgotaway’. Fishneedtobeabletomoveupanddownriversto hasstayedlow.AsaresulttheParooRiveris accessfoodandhabitatsuitableforspawningandto theleastregulatedriverinthe avoidpoorwaterqualityorotherunfavourable conditions. Many of the fish species found in the Paroo MurrayͲDarlingBasin. migrateaspartoftheirlifecycle,includingMurraycod, silverperch,spangledandgoldenperch.TheParooand Ovens(inthesouthernBasin)aretheonlyriversinthe Basinwherefisharenotfacedwithbarriers,suchas weirsanddams,whenmigrating. .
196 Colin Leigo – The Paroo River means life ColinLeigoisa60year Fishing – part of life on the river oldfarmerwholives Whentheriverruns,Colincatchesfishusing atMoorelandDowns, adrumnet–atechniquehelearntfromhis abouthalfway father.Whenhewasachild,Colinalsoused betweenWanaaring linestocatchfish. andHungerfordon theQueenslandͲNSW Fishing?Oh,well,fishing,it’sbeenpartofmy border. lifeontheriver.ProbablyIwouldhavedone iteversinceIwasakid.We’vefishedonthe He’slivedhereallhislife.Theriverhas Alittlefreshdowntheriver–avitalfeaturefornative riverandprobablyinallformsandallsortsof alwayshadasignificantinfluenceonthe fish.Photo:GregRingwood. fishing.Wearetherejusttocatchourselves wayColinandhisfamilyliveandworkon amealoffreshfishbecausewedon’tliveon Colinseesthelittlerisesinwaterlevelas theirproperty. thecoast,sowecan’tgoandbuyfreshfish being a good part of being on the Paroo. everydayoranythinglikethat.Sowejust A river runs free Thesmallerfloodsarealwaysterrific.It’s catchafewfishwhentheriverruns. alwaysgreattoseethelittleriverscome It seems the Paroo is a lucky river most of Therewereplentyofgoodsizefishback Ͳ downbecauseit’sterrificjusttoseetheriver whenColinwasachild,particularly itsecologyandbiodiversityareingood run.Whenyou’vebeenhereandyougo yellowbelly, he remembers. Colin also conditioncomparedtootherrivers. throughdroughtyearsandyouseewhat remembersmanycatfishinthepast,with You’vegotallyourvertebrates,allyourfrogs doesn’thappenwiththeriver.Whenyou’ve somebeingthreepoundsinsize. inthisecosystem–everythingisstillall gotnowateratallorverylittlewater,and intactwiththisriver,that’sonethingwithit. youalwayslookandsay,‘Well,it’sterrific Thereusedtobecatfishintheriver,butI Whenyoutalktopeopleonotherriversand justtoseeitrunning’.Eventhoughitmight thinksincethecarphavegotin,theymust theyjusthaven’tgotthosethings.Ithinkit’s onlybealittlerun(andtherearealotof haveeatenallofthecatfisheggs,because tremendous. thosecomethrough,overtheyear),they’rea there’sjustnocatfishintheriveranymore. terrificthingjusttoseeandtohave.Ithinka lotoftheotherrivers,nowthatthey’reall Colinalsorememberscatchingmoonfishfor the first time during the 1980s. Initially they regulatedrivers,probablygetverylittleof thoseatall.Theyprobablydon’tevensee thoughtthefreshwatercatfishwasback. themwhereasthisriverbeingafreeflowing Moonfishlooklikecatfish,buttheyarefour river,wegetallthoselittlerisesthatcome orfiveincheslongandseemtodieout down. regularlyandcamebackagain.
197 Thereareplentyofthesemoonfishinthe riverandanotherParoofisher,Ron M oon Heinemann,reckonsthey’regoodbaitfor (Neosilurushyrtlii–Hyrtl’scatfish,fishyellowͲfinnedcatfish) cod.AcrosstheBasin,thesefishare commonlyknownasHyrtl’scatfish,Hyrtl’s tandan,yellowͲfinnedcatfishormoonfish. Theyalwayscaughtafeedwhentheywent totheriver.Thesedaysitseemsitistheluck ofthedrawwhetheryouwillcatchafishor Photo:GuntherSchmida. not. x Mediumsizedfish,usuallylessthan28cm,withsmooth skinwithoutscales Youcouldcatch8to10innotime–good x Likesavarietyofhabitatsfromflowingwatertostill yellowbellies.Sometimesyou’dcatchsmall lagoons onesandyou’dthrowthembackin.WhenI x Eatsaquaticinsects,microcrustaceans,molluscsand wasakid,youcouldnearlyalwayscatch detritus yourfeedoffish. x SpawninginnorthAustraliaoccursinSummer,possibly stimulatedbyrisingwaterlevelsandtemperature Theriverisalsofullofshrimpandyabbies. Therealsousedtobealotofmussels. C atfish There’smusselsintheriver,ifyouwantto (Tandanustandanus–eelͲtailedcatfish,jewie) walk around or feel around in the mud with yourhands.Musselsareaboutfourorfive YabbiesareafavouriteacrosstheMurrayͲDarling centimetres.Theyareablackydarkcolour. Basin.ThesetwowerecaughtintheParooRiver. Andwhenyouopenthemuptheyarewhite Photo:GregRingwood. insidetheshell.VerymuddybutI’veseen peopleeatthem,butI’vetriedit,butthey are just full of mud to me. Photo:GuntherSchmida. Medium sized fish, usually 50cm or less x x Preferslowmovingwatersofriversorcreeks x Eataquaticinsects,yabbies,molluscsandsmallfish x Eggslaidinacirculargravelnestwhichthemaleguards untiltheeggshatch x NowpresumedextinctintheParoo
198 When the floods come The Paroo rarely flows into the Darling River. Th e Par Itdidin1974andColinremembersit oo flo happeningin1976,1990and2010too.Being od of De floodedinwasaregularthingforthefamily cembe inthe1950s,‘70s,‘90s.Becausetheshearing r 194 shedandquartersareclosetotheriver,they 2 getcutoffevenduringthemediumfloods. Thefarmtrucksandmotorbikesareleft outsidethefloodlinejustincase.Around Colin’splace,theParoofloodcanspreada kilometreorabitmore.Furthersouthitcan spreadover30kmaccordingtoColin. 1942floodͲTheFlatandTanks.Photosource:ColinLeigo. Priorto1928,apunttransportedpeopleandtheir chattelsacrosstheParoo.Photosource:RonHeinemann. The river is the same …WeareallwellandsafeandIthinkmostofour personalbelongingsaresafe,buttherewon’tbetoo Colindoesn’tthinktheriverhaschangedvery muchleftofWillara….OnSundaymorningtheriver much.Hecollectsdataontheriverandits wasjustcomingoutofthechannelsanditwasrising flows,justlikehisfatherdidallhislife.From fast….About3thebankbroke….Itstartedasa thisheknowshowfartheriverwillriseand gentlestreamandinafewmomentswasatorrent… whatheneedstodotosafeguardhisfarm .Idon’tdarethinkanyfurtheraheadthanafew weeks,allourgardenthatwehaveputsomuch andstock. workintoandmyheartjustachesforpooroldIvan Whentheriverflowsitfillsthewaterholesas withhistrees.Hewassoproudofthemandthey weregrowingsobeautifully.Idon’tthinkmorethan itjourneysdownstream:ifthewaterholesare 3or4willsurvive,atthemostandasthewaterwill dryorlow,theamountofflooddownstream berightoverthetopofthem.….OhwellIsuppose getssmaller.Colinsawthisathisplaceduring wearereallyluckyaswearesafeandthemenfolk the 2010 flood. It normally takes about a seemtohavesavedallourpersonalbelongings.They Theamountofwateralreadyinthewaterholeshas musthaveworked[hard]togetallthethingsout weekforflowsfromEulotoreachColin’s changesthetimeittakesforfloodwaterstomake thattheyhavedone. property,butiftheriverisdryitmaytake10 theirwaydownstream.Photo:ColinLeigo. to12days. ExtractfromtheLetterofIsobelDoyle
199 Dougie MacGregor – a lifetime on the Paroo Dougieis82yearsoldand The throughouthislifehas boom seenmanychangesin TownsaroundtheParoohave yexperiencedea Cunnamullaandinthe cyclesofboomandbustthatmirrorrsthe cyclesof flood and drought in the river itself. ParooRiver. Thepostwaryearssawaconjunctionofgood seasonsandhighwoolpricesandthetown Driving, not droving experiencedunprecedentedprosperity.Dougie remembersthe1950s: Dougierememberstheriverasalwayshaving Theyweretheboomyearsjustafterthewar, waterandplentyoffish.Heremembersthe andwoolwasbigmoney.Therewasplentyof droughtsaswell.Whenthedroughtstarted Floodedin.Photosource:GordonWarner. workaroundhere. in1957,Dougiewentintothelivestock Dougiewastoobusytogofishingduringthe Thegovernmenthadsubdividedsomeofthebig transportationbusiness.Mostdrovershad earlydaysofhisbusiness.Butlater,when propertiesforsoldierresettlement.Theywent gonetowarandnotcomeback.Dougie upinaballotin1951andmanyreturned thebusinesswaswellestablished,hehad servicemen moved on to the newly subdivided remembersmostoftheyoungergeneration moretimetogofishingforacoupleofdays land. notbeinginterestedindroving.Livestock atatime. transportationfilledthegap. ForDougieandothers,thismeantwork: There were new homesteads to be built, and The floods had significant impact on the shearingsheds,andfencing,sotherewas roads.Afterabigwetin1950,oneoftwo plentyofworkaroundandplentyofmoney. mainroadswerereplacedwithanewone Andthepopulationofthetownwentupto onthewesternsideoftheParooto,as 4000. Dougieputsit,getwaybackofftheriver. Bythelate1960sthepastoralboomhad passed. These days Dougie sees a consolidation The road and a good vehicle were important trend:largecompaniesarebuyingsmall waystogetaccesstotheriverforfishing.In propertiesandjoiningthemup.Peopleare the1950sand‘60s,notmanypeoplehad AnantͲbedflooredhouse.DuringtheDepressionno movingawayandthepopulationintheareais cars,sopeoplewouldcarͲpooltogettothe onehadmuch,soiffishwerecaughttheywere declining. rivertofishandcamp. shared.Photosource:GordonWarner.
200 Sleepy cod and spotted cod Twoofthemwouldjusttipintothewater,they wouldhardlymakeasplashoranything,they’d M Dougieandhisfriendscaughtbigcodinthe justgoin,andthey’dbeunderthewaterforthat urr (Maccullochellapeeli–aCod,y Codfish,Guduu, hideyͲholesofCaiwarroandCurrawinya,as longyou’dthinkthey’ddrowned.Andthenext co Pondee,Pondi)d wellasyellowbelly,jewfishandbigblack thing,uptheycomeandthey’dhaveacodfish bream(silverperch).ThecodDougieandhis eachintheirarms.Justlikethat. friendscaughtwereanythingupto110 WhenDougieaskedthemhowtheydidit, pounds,buttheyaveraged15to30pounds. anoldAboriginalmantoldhimthatthefish Hethinksthereweretwodistincttypesof iscalledsleepycodͲallyouhadtodoisrub cod.Onehesaysisaveryshort,stubbycod underneaththebellyandthey’dgobackto fish,andtheotheroneisalong,leanerone. sleepagain. Heandhisfriendscalledthemsleepycod TheAboriginalfisherstookonlyenoughfish andspottedcod.Thebigoneswerealways foramealthentheywouldgobacktotown. Photo:GuntherSchmida. thestubbycod. Andtheyalwayssharedtheircatchwith x LargestAustraliannativefreshwaterfish, Duringthewar,whenfoodandpetrolwere Dougie,fortakingthemtothewaterhole. growingto1.8mand113kg(average40cm) rationed,theAboriginalpeoplelivingclose x Foundarounddeepholes,woodydebris byusedtoaskDougietotakethemout (‘snags’)andoverhangingvegetationorrocks fishing.Dougieonlyhad40gallonsofpetrol x Ambushpredatoreatingotherfish, todohistowncarryingjob.Butonaquiet crustaceans,molluscsandfrogs dayheusedtotakehisAboriginalfriends x MigrateinSpring–often100sofkilometres outfishing. upstreamwithwaterlevelrises x Malesguardtheeggswhicharelaidonlogsor In the afternoon of a quiet day, I’d pick them up rocks andI’dsay,‘Whichholedoyouwanttogoto?’ Last recorded in any numbers in the 1980s andthey’dsay,‘Oh,theEightMile,’whichisup x theriver.They’donlyhaveacornbagwiththem. x CodmayhavemovedbackintotheParooRiver Whenoneofthemgotoffandputhisnoseupin fromtheWarregoandDarlingRiversduring the 2011 floods while the waterways were theair,andtookasniffaround,andhe’dsay, connected ‘Nottoday,mate.’We’llgouptotheTenMileor x Listedas‘Vulnerable’inVictoriaandbythe uptotheFourteenMile.We’dparkupthere,and DougieMacGregorandhisfriendscaughtbigcodin Commonwealth theyhaveanothersniffaround,‘Oh,yeah,this thehideyͲholesofCaiwarro.TheriveratCaiwarro willdo,mate.’ (pictured)hassnags,reedsandoverhangingtreesͲ idealfishhabitat.Photo:GregRingwood.
201 It’s all about the bait you use ButDougiehasnotseenmusselsthatbigin theParoosincehewas15yearsold. M Dougie and his friends used all sort of bait to uss (VelesunioambiguouselͲsrivermussel, Ireckondownthroughtheyearsit’scome catchfishinthewaterholes. AlathyriajacksoniͲfloodplainmussel) aboutthatthepoisonsthatthey’veusedfor Yougoouttosomeofthoseholes,andpick dipforthesheepandthecattle,andthestuff inthem,andyoucan’tgetafishoutofthem, theysprayedwith.Especiallyafterthewar, butthefishareinthere.Itdependsonwhat theyhadallthesenewmodernsheepdips feedisintherivers.Wenormallycaught andspraysandIreckonthat’swhat’s themonworms,shrimps,crayfishand poisonedtheriverholes. mussels.We’vecaughtthemonbitsof saveloyskin,we’vecaughtthemon Keeping the catch fresh grasshoppers,oncentipedes,onfrogs,and Photo:www.environment.nsw.gov.au theytellmefurtherdowntheMurray,they SomepeopleDougieknewwereverygood x Definitelytwospecies,potentiallythree catchthemonagrub. fishersandalwaysusedlinesbutnevernets. Dougie mainly used bobbing rods and hand x WasaprimaryfoodsourceforAboriginalpeople Dougieandhisfriendsalsousedtolookin lines. And it was successful as there was One species prefers wetland environments, the thefishstomachstoseewhatthey’dbeen x plenty of fish in the river. other,coolerriverineenvironments eating. If you took a boat out and you put drop lines x Floodplainmussel–growsto10cm,andcanlive Whatweusedtodowhenwegottwoor in, you were nearly always sure to get two or for10Ͳ15years threecatfish,we’dopenthemuptoseewhat three cod. In those days you’d catch as many x Found in creeks, billabongs, backwaters, lakes theywerefeedingon.It’safunnythingwith as 20 or 30 fish a day. We would only have to andweirpoolsbutnotinfastͲflowingwater thecatfishIopenedupatdifferenttimes, go out for a day. But when we went right sometimestheirbellywouldbefulloflittle x Probablyextendeditsrangewithriver out, we had to stay out two days to make it musselsaboutthesizeofyourthumbnail. regulation,andchangestowaterregimes worthwhile. Andtheywerestillwhole. x Tolerantofdrought,lowdissolvedoxygen If people were camping, they had to keep SoDougieusedtodigformusselsalongthe x Rivermussel–growsto15cmandmaylivefor the fish until they went home. He banksoftheriver,mainlyintheareaswith morethan30years remembers: blackdirtandsilt.Whenhewasakidhe x Growsinmainchannelhabitat,oftenbelow usedtogetmusselsabout10cmlong.They Theyusedtomakeabigholealongtheriver weirswithturbulentwater usedtothrowthemonhotcoalsandwhen andthey’dcatchtheirfishandturnthem x Prefershighoxygenlevels,andnottolerantof themusselswereopenedtheywereready looseinthisbigholetoholdthemthere drought foreating. alive.
202 Dougieandhisfriendsusedtotakeplentyof Dougiereckonsthegraziersareovergrazing Carp – it got out of hand coarsesalt. thelandalongtheParoo. Theriverthesedayshasavarietyofweeds Therewasnoesky,therewasnoice,soyou Thereusedtobereservesallalongtherivers. andanimalpests.Dougiefirstnoticedcarpin couldn’tstayouttoolong,thefishwould Intheearlydaysthedrovershadtohave theParooabout30yearsago. havegoneoff.Weusedtotakeplentyof somewheretolettheirhorsesandtheir coarsesaltandwe’dcleanthefishandfillet workingbullocksgo.Andthereserveis Well,wewerecatchinganoddoneortwoof them.We’dputalayerofcoarsesaltina wheretheseedgrows.Thecountryisnot thesestrangesortoffish,andtheywerenice containerortuckerbox,thenputalayerof floggedoutlikethegrazingproperties.They lookingfish,too.Butyoucouldn’teatthe filletsin,andthenanotherlayerofsalt,and weren’tsatisfiedwiththebeautifulcountry bastards,theywerefullofbones.Wetried. thatwouldkeepitprettycool.Itwould theyhad.Theywantedthestockroute ThenIfoundoutthattheywereimportedinto preservethem.Andinthecoolerweatherit reservestoo.Buttheywon’tletthegrass Australiatocleantheirrigationchannelsout. wouldalmostformice. comeupandshedaheadofseed.Theyare Andthepoliticiansthathaveallowedthemto overͲgrazing. bebroughtintothiscountryoughttobe Silting up caughtandshot.Thatwascriminal.Exactly thesamethingasthecanetoad.Andof Inthe1960s,Dougiestartedtonoticethat course,anyriverorstreamorcreekthat’s theholesweresiltingup. connectedtotheMurrayhavegotcarpinit. Beingacarrierandgettingaroundthecountry AccordingtoRonHeinemann,therewere Iwouldseethewaythesoilwasgetting goldfishintherivereversincehecan poundedupfromthesheepandthecattle. remember.Whenthecarpcamethey Thegrazierswerecuttingscrubdown–inthe affectedthenativefishcommunityand dry times trees were dead, the roots were changedtheriver. gone,andthegrasswasgone,itwasdusting upthesoil.Whenitrainedthesoilwouldget Theycameonveryquickly.Ithinkit’sararecurse. washeddownintotheriver.Youcouldsee Andnaturally,itgotoutofhand.Youhearofthe wherethesiltwasbuildingup,outlikea oddcatfishbeingcaughtnow,becausetheynest promontory,outintotheriver.Therivershad inthebedoftheriverandtheyprotectit.And bigstillwaterholesͲifithaven’trunfor18 Bothwildflowersandnativegrassesbenefitfromrain naturally,thecarpcleanthemout.Andtheyeat monthsormore,therewerestilldeepholes. andperiodsofrestfrombeinggrazed.Photo:Greg theiryoungaswell.Also,thegoldfishandthe Ringwood. Thenwestartedtonoticethattheywere carpeatthecodfisheggs,whichtheylayinside gettingshallowerandshalloweraftera bighollowlogsoftreesthathavefalleninthe shortertimewithoutaflood. river.
203 Ron Heinemann - what I know of the Paroo is what I’ve learnt myself RonHeinemannisagrazier Myfatherwasn’tafisherman,butmy wascomingupbecausetheywereprobably whohaslivedalongtheParoo motherandherrelatives,theGardiner bothpullingdifferentways.Anothercodhe allhislife.Hisparentscameto family,theywereallfisherwomen.Inthose caughtwas73pound.ButIsawan84pound liveatthesheepstation days,weusedtohavearodwithashortline codattheStation’sbutchershop,itwasa on it, with a cork. Three foot off the bottom ‘Springvale’,about10 bigfish.ThebiggestIheardcaughtthere therewasthehook,andyouputashrimpor was up to 102 pounds. kilometreswestofEulo, awormonit,andyoujustbobbedaway,and around 1920. But Ron recalls that cod were once more thefishtakeitandyoujustpullthemouton plentiful in this waterhole. Theylivedintentsforseveralyearsuntilthey thebank–it’sassimpleasA,B,C. builtshedswithacanegrassroof.Ronwas Ron’spassionforfishingcontinuedashe DownatCaiwarrothereweresomanycod fish. In 1950s they put a road across the bornin1922. grewolder. bottomendoftheriverthere,andsomany Iwasamadfishermanallmylife.Ilike codfishdiedatthecrossing,thattheyused fishingbecauseyouneverknowwhatyou totakethemawayinatrucktogetridof aregoingtopullout. them.Thestationwasonlyafewhundred yardsaway,andthesmellwasterrific.Every Remembering cod kindoffish.Codfish,yellowbelly,catfish. Ronrecallshismother’smemoryofcatching codintheParoo: My mother remembers, when she was a little TheremainsofRon’sparents’house.Photosource:Ron Heinemann. girl,catchingcoduponthebanksofthe Paroo.Asfastastheytookoneofftheline Fishing: as simple as A, B, C there’dbeanotheroneon.Theymusthave beenthereinplentifulsupplyinthosedays. Ronwastaughttofishbyhismother,who RonrememberscatchingcodatCaiwarro camefromafamilyoffisherwomen. Although not common since the 1980s, the floods of waterhole and recalls the fishing exploits of 2011allowedtheParootoconnectwiththeDarling I’vebeenfishingintheriversinceIcould agoodfriend: andWarregoRiversforarelativelylongtime,possibly almostwalk.Mostlymymothertaughtme Hetoldmehecaughttwo20pounderson allowingcodaccessbackintotheParoo.Photo:Luke howtofish. theonelineoneday.Hedidnotknowwhat Pearce.
204 The black flood They’re beautiful to eat! Ronremembersfishasplentiful,butreckons ForRon,fishingisnottheendoftheactivity droughtandrainhavebigimpactsonthelife –eatingthefishisdefinitelypartofthe oftheriver: enjoyment! InthosedaystherewasanyGod’samountof Ifyoustayedovernight,you’deatthemon fish.YoucouldgodowntotheFiveMilewater thespot.Cooktheminacampoven.A20 holeyearsago,andyou’dcatchatleasttwo poundcodfish–youwouldn’tgetmuch mealsinanhourwithoutanytroubleatall.But bettertoeat.Cutitintosteaks,roughlyan in1935,theblackfloodcamedownandkilled inchthick–andputitbetweentwopiecesof almosteveryfishinthewaterholes. A‘tideline’ofdeadfishisnotaprettysight,butblackwater wirenettingandcookovergidgeecoals.You eventsarepartofthecycleofdroughtandfloodinthe wouldn’tgetbetteranywhere.Because Whentheriverflowsthefirsttimeaftera floodplainsoftheBasin.Photo:DavidWard. cookedthatway,allthefatrunsout,they droughtitmovesslowly;analmostblack, getveryfat.Andtheyarebeautifultoeat. inkͲlikewater.ColinLeigosaysthecolourof thewaterchanges:iftherearestormsinthe ButRonhasseensomethingoddhappen ColinLeigooftenusedtocookyellowbelly upperpartofthecatchment,thecolourof aftertheblackwaterhascleared: oncharcoalalongthebanksoftheriver. thewaterturnsyellowish,thenred. AnotherthingInoticedin1935,naturehasit Weusedtousewetbrownpaperandwrapit up, you wrap the fish up whole like that, and Dougiehasalsoseentheriverflowingblack thatthosefishspawnbeforetheydie.Anda justputitinsomecoalsonthefireforabout afterabigstorm,particularlywhenthe fewweeksaftertheflood,thewaterstended to clear gradually, six or eight feet from the 20minutes.Coveritontopaswellwiththe waterholesgoblackduetothefallenleaves. bankoftheriveryoucouldseeumpteen coals,andwhenyoupullthewetbrown Itdoesnotlastlong,butcankillthefish.He millionoftinyfishmoving–justamassof paperoff,theskinwouldpeeloffstucktothe has seen fish starving for oxygen during the fish.Ihaveseenthisonlyfourorfivetimesin paper.Wedidn’thavetoscaleitoranything. blackflood,deadanddyingagainstthebanks mylife. Thenyou’djusteatitwithafork. oftheriver.Therewouldbe,hesays: Thereweremoretherethanwhatthebloody birdscaneat.
205 The disappearing water Grea TheParooRiverisunusualincomparisonto t Ar othersintheMurrayͲDarlingBasin.Mostof TheGreatArtesianBasintisethesi world’slargest underground aquifer, storing 65an000 million megalitres itswaterdisappearsundergroundanditvery B as ofwater.Althoughusuallyassociatedwithincentral seldomflowsintotheDarlingRiver. Australia,itstretchesfrom2400kmfromCapeYorkto Theartesianisimportantforoursurvival theLakeEyreBasin,andeasttoToowoombaand Dubbo. The basin’s vast water supply is recharged here.Ithinktryingtodrillintotheartesian fromrainwaterthatpenetratesfromthesurface. basintogetgasisaproblem.Iftheyhappen Naturalartesianspringsbubbletothesurfaceasa to destroy the artesian basin, it will be the resultofthewaterbeingheldunderpressure. endofAustralia.Icantellyouonething.We Thesespringshavealwaysbeenvitalsourcesofwater had a big flood at Springvale once. I was out forAboriginalpeopleandarealsosignificantelements Paroo wetlands artesian spring. Photo source: NSW DEC. walkingonanislandthere,andIthoughtI instoriesassociatedwithAncestors,whooftenlivein couldhearhorsestrottingthroughthewater thedeeppoolsofmoundsprings. in the distance. I got over a bit further, and I Theartesianspringsenabledthefirstpastoraliststo foundthatIcouldstandontopofthisnoise. moveintotheQueenslandinteriorandprovided Itwaswaterrunningoverrocks.Thatflood importantwateringpoints.In1886,JSLoughead hadbeenuptwofootsixandfallenaway drilledthefirstboresintheareaatThurulgoonia twofootsixinaboutaweek,anditwould StationnearCunnamulla.Drillingproduced80000 havebeenahellofalotofwatergoing gallonsofwaterperdayandalthoughveryexpensive, downunderneath.Thewaterwas itdidattractmorepeopleandstock. disappearingintotheearth.Youcouldhear Onceaborewasinplacewateringfacilitiesincluded itrunningovertherocks.Andyetitmight tanks,damsandboredrains.Artesianwaterwasalso havebeen100feetorsobelowme.Soyou usedonstockroutes,forwoolscouringandasasupply couldhearthewaterpercolatingdown. forsteamdrivenrailwayengines.TownsintheParoo districtuseborewaterforurbansupply.Artesian bathsandspaswereoncecommon. TheextractionofwaterfromtheGreatArtesianBasin has changed the ecologies of many places in the basin TheriveratCaiwarrowherewaterholesarefedby area.Manynaturalandmoundspringsnowhave artesianwater.Photo:GregRingwood reducedfloworhavestoppedaltogether.TheParoo RiverwaterholesatCurriwinyaandCaiwarroarefed 3 byartesianwater.
206 Ron Gardiner – Riding the river
RonGardinerwasbornin IusedtogototheriverwhenIprobably 1918inCunnamulla.He wouldhavebeenaroundabout10orsowith hadtogotoschoolin oldgrandmotherGardiner,myfather’s Eulo,initiallyboardingat mother.Andsheusedtogodowntothe theEuloQueenMotelas Paroowithabamboorod,anddobobbing. therewasnobridge Everynowandagainshe’dgetahandfulof sand and she’d throw it across the cork, and acrosstheParooRiver. she’dsaytome,I’mjustputtingabitof Butafterthebridgewasbuilt,Ronstartedto pepperandsaltonwhateverIcatchlater. commute to the school on horseback. That Andshealwayscaughtafishortwo. wasin1928. Ronhadhisshareoffunnythingshappen Heremembershisfirstcontactwiththeriver whenfishingtoo. TheCaiwarrohole.Photo:GregRingwood. asitwasratherchallenging: TheCaiwarrohole,itwasatleastthreemiles ThefirstyearIwenttoschoolinEulo,the long,neverdry,20or30footdeep.Atone Yellowbelly is a favourite teachertherewasaMrSkinner.,Hetookus stagewhenIwasdowntherewithacousin Ronsometimescaughtlargenumbersoffish. alldowntotheriver,toabigwaterhole, of mine – when I was about 18 years of age – He’dkeeptheminthefridgeandeatthem whichwasaquarterofamileaway.Hesaid, andwewerefishingatnightinthemiddleof overthefollowingdays.Itwasalwaysthe ‘Wearegoingovertotheotherside.’AndI theriver.Isaid,‘Fred,Idon’tthinkwe’re good old yellowbelly. said,‘Ican’tswim,Sir.’Andhesaid,‘Well, moving.’Andhewasagoodrower,andhe hop on my back.’ We got half way over, and said,‘Ofcoursewearemoving.’Soaftera Itwastheeasiestonetocatch.Wedidn’tcatch he pushed me off, and said, ‘Now, swim.’ So whilewehadalanternwithus,andwe manycodinthosedays.IthinkIonlyevercaught that was a good early lesson. foundweweren’tmoving.Apparentlyabig onecodfish.Once,whenIwasgoingtoschool,I oldtreehadwashedintotheriver,andwe wentdowntoFiveMile.Icaughtafivepound Fishing tricks weresittingonalimb,andtherewasgreat cod.ThenonedayIwenttoFiveMileholeand FishingtheParoowasacommonactivity. bigheapsofgrassgrowing,I’dsayinabout therewasablackflood.Thefishwasgetting tenfeetoneitherside,andIsaidtoFred, closer to the top until they started jumping out of Ronhasfondmemoriesoffishingwithhis ‘Oh,forgoodnesssake,don’thavean thewater.AndIgotenoughyellowbellytofillthe grandmotherwhoshowedhimatrickor accidenthere,Idon’tthinkIcouldget backofaute–thefloor,justflat.Andtheywere two. throughthatgrass.’ButIbelieveit’sallgone beautiful.AndthebiggestfishIknowthatwas sincethecarpcame. caughttherethatdaywasa25poundcod.
207 Whenthefishweren’taround,Ronwould RonHeinemannhadsimilarexperiences.In catchcrayfish–or‘yabbies’asthey’re 1964,heboughtaboatandamotorsothat Goldf knowninotherpartsoftheBasin. duringthefloodhecouldlookforstranded (Carassiusauratus–goldeniscarp,h carp, sheep. commoncarp,cruciancarp) MysonAndrewtoldmeabouttenyearsago thatthefloodkilledallthefish.Thelocals WeusedtocruisetheParoo,lookingfor said,‘It’snogoodgoingfishing,because sheeponislands.Ifyoufoundfivesheepon therearen’tanyfishintheriver.’Afterthata anisland,they’dgofivedifferentwaysinthe fellownamedCharlieMackenzieandAndrew midͲstream,andyouhadtogoandpullthem wentouttotheriver,putatinin,andcame outoftheriverontotheboat,whichwas homewithabucketfulofcrayfish.Itwas hardwork,Icantellyou. mucheasiertocatchcrayfish,becausethere arenofishtheretokeepthecrayfishdown. Photo:GuntherSchmida. Riding the river x Smalldeepbodiedfishupto40cmbutmore commonly20cm Eulo was and still is grazing country. Sheep x AnativetoeasternAsia,firstintroducedin oftengetaccesstheriverandregularlyget 1860sasanornamentalfish,nowpresentin caughtinitduringfloods.Thebestwayof allwaterwaysoftheBasin findingsheepcaughtintheriveristo x Althoughornamentalfishhavevariousbright wanderupanddownintheriveronaback colours,wildgoldfishquicklyreverttoa ofahorse.Roncalledthis‘ridingtheriver’: bronzecolour x Usuallyassociatedwithwarm,slowͲflowing Well, whenever there is a flood in those days, waters,weedbedsandisknownfromslower yougotonyourhorseandyourodetheriver, flowingareasofuplandrivers tomakesureiftherewereanysheepcaught, x Spawnwhenwatertempsare17Ͳ23°C,eggs you’dswimacrosstheriver.Assoonasthere Movingsheepbyboat.Photosource:ColinLeigo. arelaidamongstsubmergedvegetation wouldbeariver,we’dride.Wehadtwo Feeds on small crustaceans, insect larvae, goodhorsesthatswamandthey’dswim x plantmaterialanddetritus acrossanyriver.Marvellous.We’dgetsheep andcattleoutoftheriverbyswimmingthem x Generallyconsideredbenign(notharmful,low impact on native species) across.
208 Making connections
Survival from the river Theriverprovidedplentyoffish:butyoudo havetocatchthem!Understandingtheriver EarlysettlersandAboriginalpeoplereliedon andthefishisimportant.AsfarasTud theRivertosupplementtheirproteinintake. Murphyisconcerned,thelocalaboriginal Theycaughtyellowbelly,Murraycod, peopledoitthebestway. catfish,yabbiesaswellasfreshwater Oneblokeputhishandintothelogandhe’d mussels,allforeating. comeupwithabigyellowbellyinhishand, Theyfishedalmosteverydayandtookwhat everybloomin’time.Heusedtotellus,allyou theyneededfortheday.Thosewholivedfar hadtodowasrubthemonthebellyand fromtherivertooklargerquantitiesoffish suddenlythey’djustlaythere,andyoujust home. slipyourfingersoverthegillsandbringthem up. th Untilthefirsthalfofthe20 Century,there Itwasimportanttocatchyourownfishastherewere wereplentyoffishintheRiver,asDougie nofishshops.Photosource:GordonWarner. Dealing with ‘dry floods’ MacGregorrecalls: Knowing the fish Sometimeslivingalongtheriverbrought Thosedaysifyougotonaboatanddropped unwelcomesurprises–likefloods.The a line, it was sure that you would get 2 or 3 PeoplewhofishtheParooknowtheirfish comingofthetelephonehelpedlocalsdeal cod.MostholesinParoowereknownfor well.RonHeinemanngivessomeexamples: withsomeofthedifficultiesoflivingnear holdingplentyofcod. Noeelsouthere.Buttonnesofyabbies. theParoo.DonaldCooneyremembershow Overtheyears,overfishing,introductionof Thereisanothersmallfishouttherewecall thecomingofthetelephonelinestothe carpandpollutionresultedinthedeclinein themoonfish.…Oh,therearealsotinyfish Euloareachangedthewaythatpeoplewere thenumberoffish.ColinLeigosumsupthe –oh,gruntersandbonybream–thatsortof warnedaboutthefloods. situation: thingwhichareusedforcodbaittoo.Also, blackbream,whichyougetalotofthemout Yougetwhatyoucalldryfloods–it’drain Now it is very hard to catch a Murray cod. intheCurrawinyaLake,andtheycomeup heavilyuptheriverandyou’dhavenothing, These days it seems it is the luck of the draw intotheParoo,andtheygrowtothreeand you’dhavedustblowing.Youwouldn’tseea whether you will catch a fish or not. fourpoundsandaregoodeating,too. cloudinthesky,andyoudidn’tknowthe waterwascomingbecauseitwasraining 200milesuptheriver,thendownshe’d 209 come.Theydecidedthatthiswasnogood. Hischildhoodrelationshipwiththeriver Picnics along the river Sowhentheyfirstgotthetelephonedown continuedintothenextgenerationwith Theriveralsocreatedagoodatmosphere thereeverybodygotbusyandbuilttheparty Colin’sdaughters. lines.Fourorfivepropertieswouldget forsocialising.Gatheringsoffamiliesand attachedtojustonewirethatranintoEulo. Eventhoughourhousehassinceshifted friendsalongtheriverbanksforfishingand Itwasthestartofthemodernera. aboutakilometreofftheriver,they’vedone havingpicnicswereacommoneventas the same thing as I did over the years, swam Ron’sdaughterBridgetremembers: The children of the river andfishedandyabbiedandeverythinginthe river.They’vebothhadtheirtwentyͲfirstson Mumusedtoinvitethenunsoutquiteoften AccordingtoColinLeigo,duringhis theriver. forpicnicsalongtheriver.They’dcomeout childhoodlife,wasaloteasierforthe andtheymusthavestayedovernight.Itwas peoplealongParoo.Thelivesofhisparents It’s a big (fishing) adventure quiteamusing,becauseourgovernesstook andgrandparentsrevolvedaroundtheriver. herclothesoffinfrontofthenunstogoand FishingcanbeexcitingbutRonHeinemann get the bull out of the river. We thought that They’dfishtheriverandsocialisedby believesbefore,duringandaftercatching wasverynaughty.Weusedtogoonthese organisingpicnicsandothereventsonthe fishisallpartofabigadventure. picnicsalongtheriverandgofishingand banks of the river. swimming.Irememberusgoingfishingquite ItisallabigadventureIusedtoswiminthe My father always enjoyed the river, enjoyed alot.Dadwouldtakeus.We’dgetinto riveraswell.Sometimesfourorfiveofus the fishing and the social days on the river trouble,becauseyouweren’tallowedto usedtogofishingtogether.Wesometimes bank. Everything seemed to revolve around makenoisewhileyoufished. spentthenightoutthere.Justaswagand the river; they had their picnics and what gidgeecoals.Thefishingwasjustthethrillof have you, they were always held on the river. catchingacodonaline.I’veseenthemget Kidsspentthesummerdayscoolingoffin onalineattimesandyou’dthinkabullock theriver.Theriverclosesttothehousewas hadfallenintothewater.Theyreallygoto about1.8metresdeepallowingkidstodive townwhentheyhit.Oneofthefirst25 pounders I ever caught was down below andjumpintothewater.Colinandhis Springvale.Ilookedoverthebank,andit brotherlearnttoswimbytyingagallonͲtin camerightoverthewater,a25pounder.I around their back and dog paddling. The Ͳ cantellyou,it’sanastyjobtryingtocarry brothersspentmostoftheirsparetime thembackonamotorbike–onyourlap! swimming,catchingfishandyabbyinginthe river. They created games, built swing ropes Fishingwasoftenafamily,aswellasasocial,event. anddivingplatforms. Photosource:GordonWarner. 210 Visions for the Paroo Thefishingpeoplewhocontributedtothis edgeoftheriver.Thatwasonenegative– the fact that the stock route was right on the projecthavealltalkedabouttheirhopesfor water.Itwasdetrimentaltotheriver’s Sta thefutureoftheriver.Manyfelttheyhad te healthbecauseofthehugemovementof of seensomeimprovementsbutmostdon't ‘m rive stockupanddownthestockroute.Thebest ode r: feeltheriverisashealthyyetastheywould rat thingthateverhappenedtotheriver,of TheSustainableRiversAudite -(SRA)isanongoing liketoseeit.Eachofthesefisherssuggested go course,wasthefactthattrucksfinallytook systematicassessmentofriverhealthodof‘ 23 waystohelptheriverandinturnhelp overandtherewasnoneedtotravelstock majorrivervalleysintheMurrayͲDarlingBasin. providehealthyhabitatsforfish. alongtheroute. Environmentalindicators(themes)include hydrology,fishandmacroinvertebrates,which Stock management RonHeinemannlivednotfarfromthe aremonitoredandwillhighlighttrendsover Cooneysonhisfamilyproperty,Springvale. time.4 DonaldCooneywasborninthe1930sand Herememberstheimpactofstockonthe TheParooValleywassurveyedin2006.The grewupon‘TurnTurn’withhiseight riverdifferently: ParooValleyfishcommunitywasconsideredin brothersandsisters.HeandhiswifeFaye ModerateCondition,andEcosystemHealthin Thebanksoftheriverhavenotchanged livedintheParooRiverdistrictmostoftheir GoodCondition.58%ofpredictednative either. I wouldn’t say so, no. A lot of people lives,raisingtheirthreechildren,Alan, specieswerecaught,comprisingmostofthe saythatstockwateringisdamaginginthe DonnaandStacyandrunningsheepat totalcatch(97%),and78%ofthetotalbiomass. waterholes,butIthinkthefloodscleanthat Wittenburra, an hour west of Eulo. They Catchwasdominatedbybonyherring,with outandtakecareofthat. fishedtheParooandtheWarregoriversand goldenperch,MurrayͲDarlingrainbowfishand sawhowitchangedovertheirlifetimes. ColinLeigohasseenhowtheriparian Spangledperchalsocommon.Carpdominated vegetationhaschangedwithchangesin thealienspeciescaptured,withgoldfishalso Donaldremembers: captured. agriculture.Henotedthatafterdairy We lived on it for a long time. And it was in farmingdeclined,lignumvegetationalong theearlydays–itwasusefulmainlyfroma theriverbanksincreasedbecauseitwasnot stockpointofview,forthewater.Youhadto being eaten by the cows. Colin has worked havewaterduringdrought.Thestockroute Heusesthefencelinetomanagetheherd ranalongtheriver.Inthosedayswehadno withtheWesternCatchmentManagement forgrazingrotationratherthanpreventing truckstomovethestockawayfromthe Authoritytofenceabout12kmoftheriver accesstotheriverandriparianvegetation. drought.Mobsofdroverstookmobsofstock ononebankonhisproperty. along the river, they walked along the river. Theyjustabsolutelydevastatedalongthe 211 Dry times Pelicans,swans,ibis,younameit.I’veflown overtwiceandthebirdlifethereiscolossal. Dec ForColin,managingstockinthearidzone Theyareobviouslycomingintofeedonthe lara Threemajorwetlandstio withintheParoocatchment meantkeepingacloseeyeontheirwater fishandotherthings.There’dbealotof n o havebeenprotectedunderf theR InternationalRamsar andobservingitspermanencyintheriver. fingerlings. ams convention,protectingtheecologicalaintegrityr sit (flora Colinnotedsomewaterholeswouldgodry Floodschangedthewholelandscapeandas andfaunadiversity,includingnativefishpopulations).es‘ after20yearsorsoforashortperiodbut thewatersubsided,Ronknewwheretofind Oneofthewetlands,CurrawinyaNationalPark,was thenfillupagain.Thelongestherecallsthe thefish: includedwithintheInternationalRamsarConvention inSeptember1995,andtheNocolecheNature water holes going dry was during the Well,yougoalongacertaindistanceandit Reserve(approximately180kmwestofBourke)and 2003Ͳ2004droughtwhenhehadtocart wouldbequiteafairwaterhole.Then partoftheParooͲDarlingNationalPark(240km waterforaboutthreemonths.Priortothis there’snothingformiles,onlyjustchannels southwestofBourke)wereincludedinSeptember Colincartedwaterforthestockforaboutsix andsmallwaterholesthatdryupfairly 2007.TheirtotalareawithintheParoocatchment covers over 280 000ha. weeksin1965andremembershelpinghis quickly.RightalongtheParoothere’sa parentstocartwaterforawhilein1958– seriesoflargerwaterholesthatare Formoreinformationgoto permanent.Andit’sinthoseholesthatyou http://www.environment.gov.au/water/publications/envir illustratingthelongdryperiodsthatcanbe onmental/wetlands/parooͲriverͲfactsheet.html. experiencedintheParoo. gofishingthatthefishcongregatein. Beingakeenfisherman,Ronjoinedthelocal Benefits of floods fishingclub.Herecallsrestockingnativefish RonHeinemannremembershowcrucialthe intotheWarregoRiver: floodsweretomaintainingthelakesandoff In1985Ijoinedthefishingassociationin channelareasoftheParoo: Cunnamulla.Wedidput2000Murraycod fingerlings,aboutthreetofourincheslongin LakeWyaraisafairlybigfreshwaterlake theWarregoRiverbelowCunnamulla.When whichtheParoowillrunintoitduringany weletthemgo,theyjustdispersedinaflash bigflood.It’sfivemilesacross.Theriverwill intothewater,outoftheirplasticbags.And gouptotheotherlakeonthewesternside, sometenyearsorsolateryou’dhearofa20 whichisasaltlake.Ihavecampedthere. to30poundcodbeingcaught. Andthebirdlifethatcomesinafterdark,the DetailfromtheinterpretivesignatKingCharlie’s noise,theswishoftheirwingscomingin Waterhole,withintheNocolecheNatureReserve. fromthesaltlaketothefreshwaterlaketo UtilisedbyAboriginalpeoplefortensofthousandsof years,thiswaterholealsoplayedanimportantpartin feedͲthat’ssomethingtohear.We’re thedevelopmentofNocolecheStationinthe1880s. talkingaboutaverywiderangeofbirds. Photo:GregRingwood. 212 213213
Source: PopPeterson.Source:RobertWorboys.BobWorboysSource:PopPeterson. Source:PatCross.Childrenafterswimming. andwifewithcodcaughtfromthe ‘GardenHole’in1951. Source:GregRingwood. 214
NedandLynetteUnderwoodlivebeside the Balonne River, calling it their “little pieceofparadise”.Photos:GregRingwood. RoyandJuneBarkernowliveatLightning Ridge,butbothcallthemselvesriver people.Photo:JenniBrammall. RobertWorboys(left,pictured,in1957), KeithCodringtonandGeorgeThomasare some of St George’s fishermen. They have fishedtheCulgoaͲBalonnecatchmentfor over50years.Photosource:BobWorboys. RoryTreweeke(right)likestoobservethe floodsandthewaythefloodplainsget inundated.Photo:GregRingwood. 215
‘TheBalonneRiveriswellknownasthehomeofthebig Murraycod,andthisexcellentfreshriverfishhasbeenbiting freelyatdifferentperiodsthisyear.’ TheBrisbaneCourier,29May,1922 ‘TheCulgoaisastwistyasaram’shorn,andsonarrowandthe treesinterlocksocloselyoverthewaterthatwehadtotake downthemasttogetalong.' R.C.MinterandR.H.Webster,TheAdvertiser,26May,1934 216 Introducing the river and its people The123000km2catchmentoftheCulgoa– Balonne Rivers is semi arid with a highly Ͳ Thisstrongconnectiontotheriversandland variable rainfall. The rainfall is reflected in meanttherivershaveadeepspiritual the rivers’ flows which often cease for long significanceaspathwaysforimportant periods of time, sometimes for up to a few creationstories–variationsofwhichwere years. During such prolonged droughts only sharedbetweenthegroups. verylargewaterholescontinuetohold water.Whentherainsaregood,thewhole SomeoftheAboriginalrelationshipswiththe floodplainmayturnintoaslowflowingriver rivercanstillbeheardinsomeofthelocal around a metre deep. townnames.Forexample,Dirranbandi The reach of the Culgoa, and its floodplain, adjacent means‘frogscroakinginaswampatnight’ GeographicallytheBalonneisanextension toBrendahomestead.Photosource:PopPetersen. andMungindiwasnamedfromaword oftheCondamineRiverandstartsnear meaning‘diggingforwaterplace’inthelocal Glenmorgan. It flows through gently 2 dialect . undulatingcountrybeforereachingan Shared landscape-shared stories expansiveflatplainwhereitsplitsandforms Several Aboriginal language groups shared severalsmallerriversincludingtheCulgoa. theinlanddeltasystemcreatedbythe TheCulgoaRivertwistsandturnsacrossthe branchingoftheBalonneRiver.The floodplainandthroughcoolabahwoodlands Bigambul,Kooma,Muruwari,Gungarri, beforeflowingintotheDarlingRiver MandandanjiiandGamilaroipeople1,2relied betweenthetownsofBrewarrinaand ontherivers’richresourcesoffish,mussels, Bourke. yabbies,birds,aquaticplantsandgrassseeds to survive3. TheseriversaresignificanttotheBigambul, A child ‘running the flood’, celebrating the arrival of Kooma,Muruwari,Gungarri,Mandandanjii Thesegroupsfoundawaytosharethisarea theflood’sleadingedgedowntheCulgoaRiverat andGamilaroipeoplewhohavetraditionally equally between each other, especially 14 Weilmoringle.Imagesource:MerriGill1996. lived,fishedandtoldstoriesaboutthese duringtimesofdroughtwhenclanswould riversandthelifetheysupport. needtomovebetweenriversystemsinorder tofindwater.
217 The arrival of the Europeans We AftertheareawasfirstcrossedbyMajor ilmo 2 rin ThomasMitchellin1846 ,therichalluvial gle wate soilsdrewasteadystreamofsettlerstoward rhole theCulgoa–Balonne. Thefirsttwograzinglicenceswereissuedin 1848.TheBalonneRiverfloodplain’sheavy, sticky,blacksoilscreatedexcellent conditionsforpasturegrowthandforming richgrazingland. Theareasoondevelopedareputationforits sheepandwoolproduction,andrunsofover a million sheep were requested4. As the need TheWeilmoringlewaterhole.Imagesource:MerriGill 15 1996. forworkersincreased,Aboriginalpeople The Weilmoringle waterhole on the Culgoa River gainedworkasstockmen,allowingthemto ‘Boating’inwashtubsontheriver.Photosource:PatCross. was an important place for the Muruwari people. Its maintain their connection to Country. Aswellasprivatelandholderinvestment,the spiritualsignificancewasconnectedtotheirrainbow Intheearlydayspropertieswereverylarge, QueenslandGovernmentalsoconstructed Serpentcreationstories. thesmallestbeingaround10000acresto thefirstlargedamatStGeorgeasapilotto Europeansettlerswereattachedtothewaterhole’s helpsurvivethelongdroughts.Slowflowing, supplywaterforirrigation.Whentheproject relativereliabilityandbythe1850sitwasbeing provedsuccessful,aweirtentimeslarger usedtowaterstock.Weirsfollowedinthe1880s largefloodswereseenasablessingrather and the first artesian bores were sunk in the 1890s. than its predecessor was built.1 thenacurseasthefloodplainssoakedupthe ThepastoralcampgrewintoaselfͲcontained 1 waterandgrewlushnutritiouspastures . Theareabecameamajorirrigationarea, homestead,withitsownbutcheryandtelegraph office. Watersecurityremainedanissueintheearly although,likeelsewhereintheBasin,thishas Bythe1970sthereweremoredemandsonwater 20thCentury.Therelativelyundisturbed comeatthecostofproblemsassociatedwith 5 thancouldbemet,despiteongoingdevelopmentof Culgoa–Balonnepriortothe1950s highnativesaltloads . weirsandbores.15 underwentmajorchangesfromthe1950s Todaythelocalscontinuetousetheriverfor By2004,WeilmoringleStationhadbeenpurchased and1970sandthroughtothe1990s.Major bytheAboriginalLandsTrustfortheMuruwari recreationalactivitiesincludingfishing–the 16 waterstorageworkswereconstructedand residents of St George say it’s the fishing People. 1,2 increasedcapacity. capitalofinlandQueensland6.
218 Ned and Lynette Underwood – belonging to the Balonne NedandLynetteUnderwood Henevercaughtmanycod–thebiggestone B liveatWarroo,asheepand being20pounds.Nedrecallstheeaseat on (Nematolosa erebiy– bonyb herring, pyberry, cattlestationthatNed’s whichhecaughtafeed: re a hairbackherring,melonfish,m thukari) grandfather bought in 1890 You’dgodownandinacoupleofhoursyou afterthefloodofthesame mightcatchhalfadozenfish.Acoupleof year. goodmeals.Iusedtogoeveryweek, Nedwasbornonthestation, sometimestwiceaweek.Yousee,itwasa good pastime. You know, you made your Lynettecametolivethere ownpastimeinthebush. aftertheyweremarried. Nedsoongottoknowthebestwayto prepare and cook his catch: Fishing from an early Photo:GuntherSchmida. age I’djustfryyellowbelly.Didn’tskinthem,just x Mediumsizedfishto47cm,butcommonly scalethem.Skinnedthejewfish[catfish].We Nedwasbornin1932and 12Ͳ20cm didn’tevenbotherusingtheblackbreamͲ hasfishedsincehewas weusuallythrewthembackintotheriver.I x Widespreadandabundantthroughoutthe about nine years old. Basin, mostly in lowland rivers nevertriedbonybream.Nevercaughtabony Yousetyourlines,whichalwayshadacork breamorneverheardofanyonecatchinga x Hardyfishtoleratinghightemperatures,high turbidity, high salinity and low dissolved on.You’dseeyourcorkbobbingandhopeit bonybreamonaline. oxygen,butdon’tlikecoldwatertemperatures disappearsthenit’dgiveyouathrill. x SpawnfromOctoberͲFebruaryinshallow, BackthenNedusedcordline,nottheclear sandybays nylonusedtoday.Neddoesn’tthinkit x Migratesupstreamwhenassmallas2.2cm matters much. x Eatsalgae,detritus,microalgaeand We’dstillcatchthemonthecordline.Idon’t microcrustaceans thinkthefishlookedattheline.Theyonly x Importantfoodsourceforlargefish(cod, lookedatthebait. goldenperch)aswellasbirds(pelicansand cormorants) Nedcaughtmainlyyellowbelly,jewfishand x Threatsincludecoldwaterpollutionand theoccasionalsilverperch,whichhecalls NedathomebesidetheBalonne.Photo:GregRingwood. barrierstofishpassage blackbream.
219 A little piece of paradise Lynetterecallsfamilylifeonachanging river: TheriverwasNed’slittlepieceofparadise.It Shrim alwayshadwater,rainordrought.Whenhe NedandIlivedovertheriver,atYarran (Macrobrachiumaustraliense,p Paratya wasakidNedandhisfamilyusedtogoto Downs,whenwewerefirstmarried.WhenI australiensis–glassshrimp,Caridinamccullochi) took my second baby home we had to be therivertoswim. boatedoverthefloodedriver. We’dhavepicnicsoccasionallyandwe’dall Ned came to learn the easiest – and safest – goswimming.We’vegotabout12mileof riverfrontage.Therewasplentyofwater, waystocrossafloodedriver: eveninadrought.Inthebiggestdrought Therearetwowaysofrowingacrossthe you’dnevergomorethanaquarterofamile riverinaflood.Ifyouangletheboat,the Paratyaaustraliensis.Photo:NSWDPI. withoutwater.Theamazingthingwasthese noseoftheboatupstreaminthewaterjust waterholesgotdowntoacertainlevelin right,youcangovirtuallystraightacross,but x ThreespeciescommonintheMurrayͲDarling Basin,oftenformingalargeproportionofthe droughtandtheyneverwentdownmuch you’rerowingallthetime.Ifyouturnsideon 12 invertebratebiomass further.Ithinktheremusthavebeen thestreamwilljusttakeyou.Theotherway undergroundspringskeepingthemfull.We istotakeoffandpickaspotdownabout50 x ParatyaandMacrobrachiumalsoknown from coastal drainage systems and learnttoswimthere. yardsontheothersidethat’sopenandjust estuaries13 Ned also spent a lot of time in the river with gowiththestream. x AllwidelydistributedwithintheMurrayͲ hisbrotherDickwheneverhehadthechance. DarlingBasinbutnumbersandspecies Shrimp, mussels and middens proportions vary between catchments12 Whenwegotabitolder,nineor10,Dickand Iwouldgoourselveseveryafternoon.We Nedrecallsthattheriverhadplentyof x Foundindifferenthabitatsincludingmainriver weretaughtearly,beresponsibleandnotto mussels: channels,backwaters–associatedwith goneartheriverbedwhenthefloodwaters submergedvegetation,silt/muddybottomsand Musselswerefairbaitbutnotasgoodas snags12 were running. So keep back from it. I’d go shrimp.Youusedtogetthemintheriver. down there and paddle in, playing in the x Feedondecomposingplantmaterialandalgae They’restillthere,mussels.Idon’tknowif sand and – it was a wonderful life. Females brood eggs under their tails like they’reinthesamequantity. x yabbies 13 Water baby Heusedthemasbaitbutpreferstouse x FastgrowingandbreedinSpring/Summer shrimp as he thinks they are better. x ParatyaandCaridinalivefor12months, Lynettewasbornin1931and,asshesays,is 13 Macrobrachiumfor2years oneyearolderandoneyearwiserthanNed. x Lossofbackwaters,floodplainsandbillabongs arelikelytobetheirbiggestthreat
Midd 220 Icanremembertheshrimpbucket,abitof ens Nowyou’dgetsevenoreightbeforebreakfast. meathere,downtotheriver,putyour Middenat shrimpbucketin.Youonlyhadtowaitafew LakeMungo. Photo: National It was a beautiful river minutesandyouhadafewshrimps. Archivesof The push for improved water storage wasn’t Australia Musselmiddensarealsocommoninthe A6135/1. justonindividualholdings.BeardmoreDam areaaccordingtoNed,areminderofthe wasconstructedfrom1968Ͳ1972inaneffort importanceoftherivertoAboriginalpeople. toopentheareatoirrigation.Thescheme Musselswereanimportantpartoftheaboriginaldiet Therearealotofmiddensaroundheretoo. provedverysuccessfulbutthechanges ofthisareaasisevidentbythelargenumbersof That was heaps of mussel shell. The weren’t always for the better. Ned recalls: shellmiddensfoundalongtheriversandfloodplains. Aboriginesusedtoeatthemussels,and Numerousartefacts,includingclayovens,quarries Theriverwasjustabeautifulriver.Oneofthe wheretheyhadtheirfeedsthey’dthrow andscartrees,arealsofoundneartheshellmiddens. prettiestriversyou’dfindanywhere.Allup theminapileandtheywereknownas Thereisevidenceofthemusselspecieswithinthe hereinWarroo,you’dbeseeingsandyreaches middens. shellmiddenschangingovertime,fromaflowing andwaterholesandplentyofgumtreesand waterspeciestowardslakespecies.Bonesfound teatrees.It’sstillaniceriver.Itgetsbetteras withinthemiddensalsoshowashiftfromaquatic Straight from the river yougoup.Righthere,youmighthavenoticed foodstowardsterrestrialanimalsinmorerecent 14 a lot of dead gum trees and dead tea trees. NedandLynetterememberintheearly times. . 1900sthewaterwasconsideredsocleanthe Soonaftertheweircameintheystartedto die. They like to be near water, but they don’t localsgottheirdrinkingwaterdirectlyfrom Water storages liketheirrootsystemunderpermanentwater. theriver…althoughyouhadtobecareful. Lynettesays: Toimprovewatersecuritymanyproperties includingWarroo,builtlargedamstocatch Youhadtohaveagoodlookfirsttoseethere floodwaters.Thisallowedforirrigatedcrops, wasn’tadeadbeastabitfurtherup. butasNedexplains,itledtootherchanges: Nedreplies: Inthosedaysthereweren’tmanykangaroos It’sneverkilledanyonethatI’veheard.You’d outthereandtheydidn’tcongregatebecause godowntotheriverandgetabucketof therewasn’tanypermanentwater.Itwasn’t water.Beforeabout1940wehadbiglog until1939thattheringtankwasputdownin overthewaterholeandwehadoneofthose Warrooandthere’sbeenabigdifference–it’s littlehandpumps. builtupthekangaroos.Iusedtodoalotof kangarooshootingwhenIwasyoungand DrownedtreesontheBalonne.Photo:GregRingwood. sevenoreightkangaroosinadaywasgood.
221 Roy and June Barker – continuing the traditions RoyBarkerwasbornonthe Andallalongtheriver,thewomenwouldbe Thosedaystherewasnosuchthingasnylon oldBrewarrinaMissionin fishing,nearlyeveryday.Thatwasour line.YouboughtwhattheycalledIrishLinen.It thelate1920sandhelived meansofsurviving,too. hadatwohundredpoundbreakingͲstrain. thereuntiltheearly1940s. HeisfromtheMurrawari Hooks like gold peopleonhisfather’sside RoysaysAboriginalfishingwithlinehasa andtheBoganWiradjuri longhistory.BeforeEuropeancontact,he peopleonhismother’sside. says,thelinesweremadeofspunandwaxed Junewasbornin1935onthe possumfur.Hooksweremadeofshaped CummragunjaMissionon bone.Bythetimehestartedfishingthey theTongala(Murray)River. wereusingintroducedfishhooksand,asRoy HerfatherwasaWiradjuri tellsit,thesewerevaluedpossessions: manandhermotherwasa Theywerelikegold.Inthecoldwinter YortaYortawoman. monthssomeoftheoldwomenwouldthrow inandgettheirlinesnaggedonalogseven River people oreightfeetdownunderthewater.They’d Roymakesfishingspears,continuingatradition singouttous,‘Comeon,youboys,goand BothRoyandJunecallthemselvesriver thousandsofyearsold.Photosource:RoyBarker. people.Roystartedfishingwhenhewas getintherenowandtryandgetourlineoff’. They’d have a big fire going there for us and about6or7yearsold.Junelearnedthe Knowing the fish we’dstripoff,righttoourshorts,diveright language,customs,legendsandstoriesof By fishing from such an early age Roy got to downandfollowthelineandunhookthe the Ngemba people while she was at the hookoffthesnag.Andwe’dcomeoutand knowthenamesofthefishandthewaysto BrewarrinaMissionontheBarwon.They warmupbythebigfire. catchthem. spentmostoftheirtimeneartheriver. Homemadefishinggearwascommon CodwastheGoodoo.Catfishwasthe Thebeautifulriver.Alwaysbeautifulclear amongstthenonͲAboriginalfisherstooin Mungulla.Yellowbelly,that’sGulidah. water,andwe’dbefishingeverydayand the1930sand1940s.Notonlyhooksmade Therearemanywaysofcatchingfishand swimming.Thegirlshadtheirspecialplace ofwirebutalsothelinetheyused,asKeith knowing the behaviour of the fish you want to toswim,andtheboyshadtheirplaceto Codrington explains: swim.Weweren’tallowedtoswimtogether. catchhelps.
222 Royexplainshowtheywouldcatch‘Mulgu’: We’dgowiththeoldauntiesandusgirls’dsit onalog.You’ddangleyourfeetintheclear ‘Mulgu’,he’sasmall,spottednativefish, Mu waterandfeeltheshrimpsbitingyou.Yougo somethingsimilartoacod.Henevergrewany lgu (Mogurndaadspersa–purple?spottedgudgeon) downreallyslowandgrabhim.Ifhewasanice morethanabout10incheslong.Heusedto shrimp,you’djustbreakhisheadoff,peelhim alwaysbeintheweeds.He’dneverventure andeathimraw.He’ssweetͲsortofasalty outintothedeepwaterbecauseotherfish sweet.Whenyoutellthekidsthistheygo wouldgrabhim.Whenthebiggerfishwent ‘Yuck’.Butthat’showitusedtobe. offbitinginthecoolweatherweusedtocuta bigforkedstickabout8feetlong,withafork Musselswerealsocommonintheriverand ontheendofit.We’dplungeitdowninto usedasbaitaswellasfood.Juneremembers: Photo: Gunther Schmida. theseweeds,twisttheweedsaroundandit Theoldwomenwouldsay,‘Goandfindsome wouldallgatheraroundtheforkedstick.We x Othernames–Southernpurplespottedgudgeon baitnow,yougirls.’You’dgoalongonthe pulltheweedsupandgettheshrimpandtwo x Attractive,smallrobustfish,maximumsize15cm, edgeofthewater,feelingwithyourfeet.You orthreeoftheseMulgus. commonly6Ͳ12cm feltamusselandyourtoesjustribaround x Usuallyassociatedwithgoodcoversuchasrocksand him,pullhimup. A nibble isn’t a nibble cobbleinQldpartofitsrange,andaquaticvegetationin thesouthernpart Royexplainshowtocookthem–aslong Agoodfisherknowswhatfishisbitingatthe x Foundinslowmovingorstillwatersofcreeks,rivers, they’dbeencaughtwhentheriverwasclear, endofthelinebeforeitislanded.Roycantell wetlandsandbillabongs,prefersslowerflowing,deeper becausewhentheriverwasmuddythey’d fromthewaythefishnibblesthebait. habitats haveamuddytaste. Ifhewasacod,he’djusttouchthebaitfor x UndergonesignificantdeclineintheBasin Theyusedtocookthemonfiresticks.You’dget halfasecondandhewasgonewithitstraight x Currentdistributionlimitedwithrecordsafter1980from afirestickthatwasblazingthenyou’dopen out.Ayellowbelly’dnibbleatitforawhile uppercatchmentinQld,MacquarieandlowerMurray yourmusselsupandyou’dputthemallalong beforehe’dtakeitoutslowly.Thecatfishhad (nearMildura,Vic/NSW,andMurrayBridge,SA–where onthefirestick. anotherbite,andtheblackbream,hewasa itwasthoughtextinct) little,quicknibbler.You’dpullthelinetwo, x Spawnwhenwatertemperatureisgreaterthan20C,laid threetimes,nextminuteyou’dhookhim. onarock,logorplants Subsidising rations You’dknowexactlywhentopullthelineand x Maleguardsandfanstheeggs Theriverhasalwaysbeenanimportant you’dgethimnearlyeverytime. x Threatsincludeinteractionswithalienspecies(redfin sourceoffoodforAboriginalpeople.It Shrimpwerecaughtbyhand.WhenJune andgambusia)andfluctuatingwaterlevelsassociated becameevenmoreimportantwhenfoodon with river regulation are thought to be part of the was young catching and eating shrimp was themissionswasrationedandagricultural reasonfortheirdecline partofbeingbytheriver. developmentchangedthelandscapeandthe
223 river.Peopleonthemissionsstruggledto intoyou,itwouldacheallday.You’dcrywith feed themselves properly. Roy says the river thepain.Thebiggeronesweren’ttoobad, A c providedanalternative. butthesmalleronesseemedtohavesmaller ompl finsonthemorsmallerspikes.Theywere RoryTreweeke,Narranfloodplainex landholderand When the land was taken our people had sys muchsharperthanahypodermicneedleand fisher,explainsthechannelsthatformtemthe CulgoaͲ nowheretoforageforfood,theyhadto wentfurtherintoyou. Balonnesystem: dependongovernmenthandouts.The The Culgoa heads down and joins the Barwon For Roy, any fish is good eating except bony introducedanimalsweremucheasierto DarlingbetweenWalgettandBrewarrina. bream that was the one fish they wouldn’t comebythanthenativeanimals.We Ͳ TheNarranthentakesofjustsouthofDirranbandi, becamemuchskilledatdressingthesheep eat.Royexplains: andformstheeasternmoststream,which upinthedarkestofnightsandbegonewith Hewasfullofbones.Youcouldeathim,if terminatesintheNarranLakes,again,between it.Sowehadtosubsidise,ifyoulike,through WalgettandBrewarrina. youwerecareful.Youhadtobeverycareful othermeansoflivingbesidesourrations.The oryou’dgetbloomingchockedwithbones! TheBokharaandtheBirriearethetwomiddle riverwasoneofthemainsourcesoffood streams.TheBokhararunsintotheBarwonRiver, thereatthetime,withthefishinabundance, justdownstreamfromBrewarrina,andtheBirrie freshwateryabbies,bigblueyabbies, You don’t see them anymore actuallyrejoinstheCulgoajustbeforeitentersthe shrimp,andthingslikethat. RoyandJunerememberariverfullofplants, Barwon. insectsandbirds.Althoughsomearestill AtthepointatwhichtheCulgoaentersthe Barwonisactuallywherethatriverchangesits Some fish are better than others around,othersareeitherrareorhave namefromtheBarwontotheDarling. CatfishwasoneofRoy’sfavouritesandin disappearedcompletely.Royremembers thepasttherewereplentyofthemtocatch. waterweed,dragonflies,waterspidersand somebirds,likesandpipers,thattheydon’t We used to catch 15 20 pound catfish. Ͳ seeanymore.OfthedragonfliesRoysays: Whenthewatercamedownmuddy,ifthere wasabigriseinthesystemupstream,this Youknow,theremustbeahalfadozen wouldstirthecatfishup.You’donlycatch species.Wehadalittleredone,you’vegota catfishandnootherfish.Buttheywere blueone,whichisabiggerfellow.Then beautifuleating. you’vegotanotheroneinbetweenwhowas adifferentcolour.Butthat’showtheyused But catfish come with spines. Roy reckons tobreed,downintheseweedsunderthe thesmalleroneswereeithermore water,andthey’dcomeupontopthen,with CulgoaRiveratBrendaStationnearGoodooga.The poisonousorthespinesweresharper. theotherweedsthatwerefloating,and expansivefloodplainoftheCulgoaͲBalonneandits that’swherethey’dhatchout,those They’vegotthreefins,oneonthetopofthe riversareallinterconnected.Photosource:PopPeterson. fish’sbodyandtwoontheside.Ifitstuck dragonflies.Wedon’tseethemanymore.
224 Keith Codrington, George Thomas and Robert Worboys - St George fishermen aboutJanuary.You’dcatchcod,anything, George:Ithinkeventuallytheydidcatchit.I anysizeatall,catch‘emuptofiftypounds, don’tknowhowmuchitweighedbutitwas sixtypounds. breakingalltheirlines.Actuallybrokea clothesline,broke. Spinnershavelongbeenapopularwayof Bobsaysbackbeforenylonlinewas catchingfishͲtheflashingoftheblades invented,youhadtouseallsortsof attractingthefish.But,asKeithsays,thefish differentmaterials. havetobeabletoseetheflash: You gotta have clear water. Olden days you Inthosedaystherewasnosuchthingas could see down 6 or 8 foot. You could see the Bobwithcodcaughtfromthe‘GardenHole’in1951. nylonline.YouboughtwhattheycalledIrish Photosource:BobWorboys. cod laying down on the log sometimes if you Linenwhichwasbraidedandhadatwo were lucky enough. StGeorgefishermenKeithCodrington, hundredpoundbreakingstrain. GeorgeThomasandRobert(Bob)Worboys Andwhatyoudidwiththefishwhenthere Bobalsoremembershavingnotrouble havebeenfishingintheCulgoaͲBalonne wasnorefrigeration. catchingafeedorbeingabletoseegreat catchmentforover50years.Theyhaveseen sightsunderwaterattimesbutlaments manychangesintheriverandhavehadalot ThebiggestfishIcaughtwasupatthe thesetimesmayhavepassed. ofgreatfishingexperiences. junction.Tookmeaboutanhourgethimand Ihadhimtetheredtwodays.Hedressedover Yearsagoyoucouldgodowntotheriverand seventypounds. ifyouhadatinofwormsyou’dhaveno Catching cod troublecatchingabagofjewfishorblack Likealotoffishermen,codareoneofKeith, Clear water bream.Whentheriverwasclear,you’dgo GeorgeandBob’sfavourites.Keithand downandyou’dseeshoalsofthem.300fish, WhenhewasyoungKeithremembershow Georgerememberastoryofoneparticularly maybemore….notnomore. theriverwouldclearoverspringandinto craftycod: RoryTreweeke,anotherlocalfishermanand summer.Clearwatermeantspinnerscould keenobserver,hasnotedacertainorderto Keith:GeorgeWardusedtogofishingand beusedatapopularfishingspotcalledthe thewaytheriverscleared: hekeptgettinghislinebroken.Soheseta ‘GardenHole’Ͳalargeholeintheriver hook on the end of a clothes line. Rope. And southofBeardmoreDam. CertainlyinmylifetimetheCulgoaseemedto itbrokethat.Youcouldseethefish betheriverthatbecameclearenoughfor The water probably started clearing about swimmingalonganddraggingthiscord spinningfirst.Onoccasionssomeofthebig September, then you could spin through until behindit. waterholesintheNarranwouldbethesame.
225 Muddy water saywhetheritsnutrientsinthewater,it’sthe carp,ortheactualflowoftheriveritself. Dam While Keith, George and Bob remember the im pacts riverashavingclearwater,overtheyears Shifting sands on f turbidityhasbecomeaproblem.George ish Changes in the river are sometimes evident thinksthatisduetointroductionofcarp. overalongtimeframe–othershappen Ifwedidn’thavealotofrainfor2to3 quitequickly.Oneofthechangesobserved months, it’d get that clear you could see the byGeorgewasassociatedwithconstruction bottomoftheriver.Nowsincethecarphave oftheJackTaylorWeirinabout1953andits comeupthisfarIhaveneverseenthewater impact on water flows. George saw an clearlikethatever.Andhowlongsincethat? About1950sthecarpcame. immediatechangeintheriverbelowtheir house: Bobalsobelievesthereisalinkbetweenthe BeardmoreDam(pictured)andJackTaylorWeirhave bothchangedtheBalonne.Photo:HamishSewell. arrivalofcarpandthelossofwaterclarity. Inthemiddleoftheriverbelowourhouse wasasandislandwithtwotrees,probably Native fish have evolved to breed when there are BeforethecarpcameI’veseenthisriverrun eightornineinchesthrough.Wecouldsee x ‘freshes’(flows) to39feetdeep.Notonce,butafewtimes. thetopsofthetreesandusedtogaugehow x Damsmodifythepatternandseasonalityofwater Oncetheflowsettleddown,thenaftera high a flood was by the trees. I remember the flowsandevenouttheflows,sofishdon’tgetthe coupleofmonthsit’dclear.Nevercleared firstfloodaftertheJackTaylorWeirwas signalstobreed sincethecarp’vebeenhere. built.Wewerewaitingforthetreestoshow x Fish,suchasMurraycodandgoldenperch,migrateto up and they didn’t. The whole island and all ButforKeith,theproblemisabitmore breedͲiftheyareableto,thesefishcantravel the trees and everything were completely complicated.Otherthingscontributetothe hundredsofkilometres washedaway.Afterthatfirstfloodthat problemofsiltingandturbidityhesays. x Damsandweirsinterruptfishmigration islandvanished.It’sneverbeentheresince. Itcouldbethecarp.Theyprobablyhavea x Adamwallandheightdifferencecreatedinwater Keithhasseensomeofwaterholes levels up and downstream mean dams are impassable bigbearingonit.Theotherthingiswe’vegot completely filled with sand, which he thinks barrierstoournativefish thestructuresacrosstheriverlength.Before buildingoftheweirs,thereusedtobelittle isalsoprobablyduetotheJackTaylorWeir. x Fishneedatemperaturesignaltospawn flowsthatcamethrough,likealittlebrook Mainlyyou’llfindthatinthelowerreaches, x Waterreleasedfromlargedamscanlowerthe anditsortofclearedandwaskeptcleared. atthebottomofthedam,especiallyatthe temperatureoftheriverforhundredsofkilometres downstream. Known as ‘cold water pollution’ this also Butwiththestructures,whenitcomesdown JackTaylorWeir,thesandhasjustshifted disruptsnativefishbreeding andiftheturbidityisstillthere,itdoesn’t andit’sonlyfromtheweightandcurrent. reallymatter.YouknowI’mstillatalossto
226 Thesedimentisjustpickedupandmoved themtherebythehundredsandthey’rejust Fis anditmightalmostenveloporfillinahole nosingatthebankandsuckingatthebank. hwa thatwasoncetwentyorthirtyfootdeep. ys RoyBarkeralsobelievestheriverat (fis Aftertheflood,itabsolutelychangedthe h la Brewarrinahaschangedovertheyears, dder wholefaceofthathole.Theremaynoteven s) beaholethere.AndwhenI’mtalkingholes, particularlyduetotheintroductionofcarp. theycouldbeanythingfromfiftytoa Wheneverwegodowntherenowto hundredyardslong.Butthey’vefilledupwith Brewarrina,theriverlooksdeadtous. sand. There’snolifeinit.Andtheweedsareall Bobnotesthatsomeofthedamage gone.Webelievethisissothroughthe introduction of the European carp. In my downstreamofJackTaylorWeirmayhave view,carphavedonemoredamagethanthe beenduetothewaythewaterwas Image: NSW DPI. rabbits.They’veunderminedthebiggum Verticalslotfishway. managed in the early days: trees,andoncethesetreesfallin,theytakea x Fishwaysallowupstreamfishpassagepastlowlevel quarter of an acre of bank with them, which weirsthatarelessthan6mhigh Downbelowtheweir,whentheyusedto manipulatethewateranddroppeditfrom iscloggingthesystemup. x Fishwaysacttoovercometheheightdifferencein 100thousanddownto40thousand waterlevelsupanddownstreamofadamby Roybelievesthatcarpnotonlyimpactthe megalitres,that’dleteverythingjustdrop providingagentlegradientusingaseriesofsmall riverbycreatingerosionbutalsoby rises and resting pools, allowing fish to “step” their underneath:fall.Thebigtreeswoulddrop. affectingthenativefish. wayupandoverthebarrier Andthenextthingyouknewtheholeswere getting clogged up with sand. x Therearevariousfishwaydesigns,themost They’vecleanedallthenativefisheggsup commonintheMurrayͲDarlingistheverticalslot andthefingerlingsofthesmallfishthatused Verticalslotfishwayscompriseofaseriesof Carp toexistthereinthethousands.We’dsee concreteboxes–eachslightlyhigherthanthe thousandsofthesenativefingerlingsina Although not willing to completely blame previousͲthatholdwatertocreatepools schooloffishcominguptheriver.But,I carp for the water quality issues, Keith x Aslotateitherendofeachboxcontrolstheamount think,theynolongerexist.Thenativefish ofwaterpassingthroughandwaterheight thinkscarpisthemajorculpritforthelossof mustbeverygoodfishtoexistortogo differencebetweensuccessiveboxes theaquaticweeds. throughthatdarkperiodoftimeandstillbe around today. Perhaps not so many, but they x Fishmustswimfastaswaterfallsthrougheachslot, Wherethereusedtobeweedsuptheriver– had a resistance, especially the cod and our beingabletorestafterreachingthenextpool they’renottherenomore.Thecarpmust’ve yellowbelly. x Fishwayscanbedesignedtosuittheswimming chewedthemout.Theproblemwiththecarp abilityofparticularfishspeciespresent isthatthey’rebottomfeeders.Soifyou’ve gotabankwithastraightdropoff,I’veseen
227 LikeRoy,GeorgeThomasthinkstheeffects ofcarparen’tlimitedtoturbidityandrecalls Carp Histo noticinganimmediatechangeinthesandfly - ry (CyprinuscarpioͲEuropeanFAQcarp,koicarp) Whywerecarpbroughtointof CAustralia? populationjustaftercarpwerenoticedin s ar Inthe1960sthestrainofcarp,‘Boolarra’,was During the early days of settlementpmany F different the area: AQ introducedillegallytoVictoriaandspreadrapidlytoall typesofanimalsandplantswereintroduced into Afterabigfloodwhentheriverwentdown waterwaysoftheBasin. AustraliainanattempttoimitateaEuropean andleftthebanksallmuddyweusedtoget environment.Carpwereseenasagoodsportandfood fish. plaguesofsandflies.Thisparticularyear,just afterthecarpwereknowntobeintheriver,I WhendidcarparriveinAustralia? canremembertheriverwentdownandwe ThefirstrecordsofcarpinAustraliawerefromVictoria didn’thaveanysandflies.Iwentdownin in1859andNSWin1865wheretheywerereleased frontofourplaceandinamongstthegrass intoponds.Duringthe1900scarpwerereleasedinto andallamongstthebanksitusedtobea thewildbutdidnotbecomewidespread. sheetofmud.Thistimeitwasjust Cancarpsurviveinmudorsaltwater? ManyearlynewspaperaccountsintheBasinaround completelytakenupwithlittlecraters.Ithink No,carpcannotliveinmud.Theycantolerateawide theturnofthe20thCenturyrefertocarpbeing itwastheEuropeancarpburrowingdownin rangeofextremesconditions,includingverylow widespreadandabundant,howeverthesereportsare themud,siftingthroughit,andtakingout dissolvedoxygenlevelsandhalfseawatersalinity. referringto‘goldencarp’orgoldfish(Carassius thesandflyeggsbecausewedidn’thaveany Arecarpeggscarriedbybird’sfeetandableto auratus). sandfliesthatyear.That’stheonlyreasonI survivetobefertilisedatanytime? CarpspreadintheBasinaftertheywerereleasedinto canseeforit.Thewholebankwasjusta No.Carpeggsonlysurviveoutofwaterforashorttime theMurrayatMildurain1964.Theirreleaseand massoftheselittlecraters. andareusuallyattachedtoplants.Unfertilisedeggs spreadcoincidedwithwidespreadfloodingintheearly soondie. 1970s,buttheiruseaslivebaitprobablyalsohelped. Docarpundermineriverbanksandcausetreestofall Istherejustonetypeofcarp? intorivers? Carpfeedbysuckingsedimentintomouth,removing Therearemanyspeciesofcarp,andthefishiswidely food(eg,insectlarvae,crustaceansandsomeplant farmedoverseasforfood.InAustraliathereareatleast material),andexpellingsedimentoutthroughgills. threestrainsoftheonespecies,Cyprinuscarpio. Thereisnoevidencethattheyunderminebanks. Geneticstudieshaveshownthereweretwostrainsin Docarpeatnativefishandeggs? Australiapriortotheirexpansionin1964:the Carpmayeatsmallnumbersofeggsorlarvaebut ‘Prospect’straininSydneyand‘Yanco’straininthe thesearelikelytobetakenincidentally.Carpare MurrumbidgeeIrrigationArea.Howeveritisthe thoughttoincreaseturbidityandtocompetewith ‘Boolara’strainfromafarminGippslandthatwas 7 nativefishforspaceandfood.7 releasedatMilduraandisnowthemostwidespread . MickCollierwithcodcaughtin1939.Photosource:Bob Worboys.
228 Rory Treweeke – river observer Rorywasbornintheearly Theyonlytookwhatwasneededforameal. TheAboriginalsusedtosometimesburn 1940sandfromthemidͲ1940s Itwasamilewalkfromthehousetothe gidgeedowntoash,thenusetheashto haslivedontheNarran nearestwaterhole,sothey’dcarrythefish settlethewater.They’dputitinacontainer floodplainsjustnorthofthe homeinasugarbag–beingcarefultoavoid andusethewaterfordrinking. Queensland–NewSouth catfishspinespokingthrough! Rorythinksthewaterisdrinkableasitis: Walesborder.Heowns I’m quite happy to drink river water. No Angledool,alargepropertyin The elusive ones problem.Riverwaterhasaverypleasant, thearea.WhenRorywas A probable reason yellowbelly and catfish verysweetflavour.Wedon’thavesalinity younghelovedtheriverand were favoured was discovered after talking issuesinthisriversystem.AsfarasI’m thefish.Hecompletedpartofhiseducation withotherfishermen. aware,chemicalresiduesarevirtuallynonͲ throughcorrespondencewhichmeanthe existent.Soitverysweetwatertodrink. wasabletogototheriverandfishregularly. Codhavealwaysbeentheelusiveoneto catchandfromtalkingtofishermanwho WhenIwasakidlivingathomedoing A different system lovegoingaftercod,thereareonlycertain correspondenceIusedtodoquiteabitof yearswhentheyseemtobeabletoget OneofRory’sinterestsisobservingtheway fishing.Nothingsophisticatedintermsof them,generallyinwintertime,afteraseries riversflowandfloodplainsgetinundated equipment.Justahandline,withahookand ofprettyhardfrosts.Nowwhatthe withwater. asinkerandprobablyawormasbait. connectionis,Idon’tknow,butthatseemsto Yellowbellyandcatfishwerethemaintwo It’sinterestingthatoneoftheproductiveand bethecase. thatwewereafterandtheyseemedtobe environmentalstrengthsofthissystemis readilyavailable,frommemory,atthetime. thatoncetheseriversgetoutontotheflood Sweet water plain,theytendtovaryverymuchinthesize Roryfoundexcusestogofishinginthe Although the Narran can have a lot of ofthemainchannel.Themajorityofrivers, intermittentlyflowingriverorinoneofthe sediment, it is, according to Rory, good to astheygofurthertowardstheocean, permanentwaterholes.Hewasrarelyshort drink.Roryknowshowtouse‘kopaisoil’Ͳa generallytendtogetabiggermainbedof ofotherwillingfisherstogowith. the river. These don’t. These fluctuate. localsoilthathasaparticularchemicalinit Sometimestheyactuallycontractastheygo Irememberfrequentingtheriveralotwhen whichsettlesoutthesuspendedsediments. furtherdownthesystem,whichmeansthat theshearingteamwasathomebecausethe RoryrecountshowAboriginalpeoplewould wool presser and a couple of other shearers thewaterspillsoutoverontotheadjacent alsouseashtosettlethesediment,clearing thoroughlyenjoyedfishingandIusedtogo floodplainatmuchlowerlevelsthanthey thewaterfordrinking: withthem. otherwisewould.
229 Cleansing Rorynotesthelinkbetweentheriversand Thathashadadrasticimpact–particularly floodplain: thesmallandmediumfloodsthatweusedto TheyearsRoryhasspentobservingthe get.2004wasthestarkestexampleofthat. Our rivers are intimately connected to the floodplainanditsrivershasgivenhiman AflowcamethroughStGeorgethat,priorto floodplain. They need the floodplain to draw appreciationofthegoodtimesandthebad. development,wewouldhaveexpected nutrients from. The floodplain is a place probably4to5000acresoffloodedcountry. Droughtsareanecessityinourenvironment. where a lot of the fish and other creatures do Onthatparticularoccasion,thewaterwas Theyactuallycanhaveacleansing,cathartic their breeding. So if you deny flooding to the flatouthalffillingthemainchannel.Soit impactontheenvironment.Inacommercial floodplain, you will impact negatively on the didn’tgetanywherenearspillingoutonto senseit’sverydifficulttomanagethrough health of the river. thefloodplain. them.Buttheyarepartofwhatwehaveto livewithandthesoonerpeoplerealisethat droughtislikelytodominateone’slifein A long river to travel theseareas;theeasieryouwillfindto It’snotonlytheflowthathaschangedwhile managethecountry. RoryhaslivedontheNarran.Roryhas observednewcomerstotheareaandthe … Rebirth impactsonthenativefish. Althoughinmanypartsofthecountry It’sinterestingthattheEuropeancarpcame floodingisconsideredtobepotentially intooursysteminthe1974flood.Theymade disastrous,regularfloodingisconsidered agiganticleapfromsomewheredownthe necessaryinthispartofthecountry. bottomendoftheDarling,rightupto TheCrossfamilyattheAngledoolWeirontheNarran DirranbandiͲStGeorgeareaandthencame Iknowthatinthesouthernpartofthe River.Photosource:PatCross. backdownoursystem.Theimmediateeffect MurrayͲDarlingBasin,it’shighlyregulated waswhatappearedtobethetotaldemiseof andpeopleprobablydonotwantfloodson Changes in flow catfish.Therewasaperiodfor15–20years theircountry.Welookforwardtofloods whentheyvirtuallyseemedtohave here.Theyaretheregeneration,therebirth Roryhasobservedsomemajorchangesin disappeared.But,overthelastdecade, ofthecountryside.Theyreplenishthe the flow behaviour of the Narran River over catfishhavecertainlymadearecovery.It’s moisturestoresinourgrazinglandandinthe theyears.Someofthechangesare interestingthat–andI’mnoexpertonfish– floodplainareasthatwecrop.Floodsinthe associatedwiththedevelopmentof itwouldappearthatthenativefishhave public’smindareveryoftenassociatedwith upstreamirrigation,whichmeansthe madesomeadjustmenttothepresenceof damageandmayhem.Notouthere. extractionofwaterfromflowsthatwould theEuropeancarp. otherwise have come through unimpeded.
230 Weeds, weeds and weeds Asakid,Ithinkyou’reinterestedinthe resultsofyourfishing.Likemostkids,Iwas We OthernewcomersRoryhasobserved impatient to catch something. I suspect that eds (Parkinsoniaaculeate, we–eparkinsonia,Phylacanescens arrivingintheareaincludeplantscalled thecontemplativevalueprobablycomeas –lippiaandPersicariads spp.anͲknotweed) knotweed,parkinsoniaandlippia. yougetolder.Thereisnothingmorepleasant d we thanjustlyingdownonthebankofariver eds We’vegotonethingcalledknotweedatthe andlistening–eveniftheriver’snotrunning. moment.It’sbuiltupoverthelast10or15 Justlisteningtothewindthroughthetrees, years.Itgrowsalongthebanksbutspreads listeningtothebirds.Watchingsomeofthe outintothewater,isvigorousgrowing, cranes,theherons,andeverythingelsegoing coversthesurfaceandisapainintheneck. abouttheirbusinessofpickingupwhatever Weknowthattherehavebeenoutbreaksof itisthey’reinterestedinatthetime. lippiahere.Ihaven’tseenanysincethislast Parkinsonia(left)andlippia(right).Photos: http://www.dpi.qld.gov.au/4790_7332.htmandMillyHobson. flood,soI’llbeinterestedtoseewhetherit HereonAngledoolwe’relucky:wehavean comesagain.WesawitbackinthemidͲ ephemerallakeandit’sasuperbpieceof ParkinsoniaisaClass2pestplantinQld,aWeedof National Significance and one of northern Australia’s 2000s,butwiththedroughtheresince,it country.Itfilledforthefirsttimefor16years worstweeds.Itisafloweringthornyshruborsmall hasn’tpokeditsheadup.Wekeepaneyeout inthefloodsearlierthisyear.We’vehad tree(to10m)thatformsdensethicketsalongandin for it. We do have some parkinsonia. They’re swans and pelicans nesting there, we’ve had waterways.Canbeconfusedwithspecieslikenative averypricklybushandlookalittlebitlike waders,ducks,egrets,terns,eventheodd pricklyacacia.Preventionofitsspreadisdifficultas pricklyacacia.We’rebringingthatunder seagulls.It’salovelyareatovisit. seedsaredispersedbywater.Sightingsshouldbe 8 controlbyrepeatedpoisoningofanynew reportedandcontrolisrequiredbylandholders. outbreaks.Unfortunately,theseedsremain Lippiaisafloweringgroundcover,welladaptedto viablefordecades,soit’sgoingtobea floodplainsandisextremelydifficulttocontrol. constantwatchingjobprobablyforthenext Lippiapreventsthegrowthofotherspeciesby 20or30years. outcompetingthemandquicklyformingdense mats.9 The love of the river Knotweedisthecollectivenameforanumberof speciesinthegenusPersicariathatarenativeto Evenwiththechangeshehasseen,Rorystill Australiaandothercountriesaroundtheworld. countshisblessings,althoughhis SeveralspeciesarefoundintheMurrayͲDarlingBasin appreciationoftheriverisdifferenttowhen andgrowinwetlandsandalongriverchannelswhere theycangrowintothewater,formingdensemats hewasboy. 10 andcausingissuesforirrigationinfrastructure. AseaofslenderknotweedinflowerontheMurray floodplain.Photo:MurrayͲDarlingFreshwaterResearchCentre.
231 Making connections
Legends protecting the young Eventhoughitwasamythicalstory,theidea Twoyearsago,mytwoboysandIcuttwo wastokeepthekidsoutofdangerbefore bigbarkcanoes,onefortheNational ToAboriginalpeopletheriverhasn’tonly nightfall.Whenthewhitesfirstcomeinto MuseuminCanberra,andoneforthe beenasourceoffoodandwater–itwasa thoseareastherewerecasesofnonͲ AustralianMuseuminSydney.That’sthefirst socialgatheringplace.But,asRoyBarker Aboriginalchildrenbeinglostanddrownedin timeacanoehadbeencutontheriver explains,theriverhasalwaysbeenused thatriversystem.Butinalltheyearsthatwe countryfor70years.Ourpeoplecutthe accordingtothecustoms. livedthere,therewasneveranykidslostin canoesfromthestraightrivergums.There’s thebushcountry,oranykidsdrowned.Even onlyacertaintimeoftheyearwhenthesap Someofthemythicalstoriestoldbytheold thoughitwasamythicaldreamtimestory,it isrunningthatyoucangetthatbarkoff.The peoplekeptthekidsinorder.Onestorygoes wasagoodone. momentyoucutaroundthereandbreak thatwe’vegotaplace,adeepwaterhole whatwecalltheseal,that’sthesealright thereintheBarwon,theycallitthe Making a bark canoe around,andputafewwedgesin,youcanlift Mirriguna.NowMirrimeansdog,inthe thebarkoffrealeasy.Inthehotsummer Ngemba,andgunameanshole,thewater Treesscarredfrommakingbarkcanoesare monthsisvirtuallyimpossibletogetthebark hole,bigwaterhole.Atthemomentthis allalongtheriver,butnotalwayswhere offwithoutbreakingthebarkup. MirriooliguncomesoutoftheMirriguna, you’dexpectasRoyexplains: he’sthesizeofadomesticcat.Ashegoesup Butwhereveryougointhebushcountry, The whole town is fishing thebankhegrowsinsizetoashetlandpony. evenmilesandmilesfromanyrivercountry, Hewasknownbecausethere’samythical AccordingtoRoryTreweeke,fishingandthe anyriver,you’llseethesescarredtrees,these timetogohome,thatexistedthere,withthe riverhasalwaysbeenaveryimportantpart canoetrees,thatarecut.Theymusthavegot Mirrioola,there,atthetime.Andthevoice ofthesocialwellbeingatAngledooland torrentialrainsatthatperiodoftimeandthe sungout,“Timetogohome.”Ofcourse,we Goodooga – a way of teaching children countrybecameflooded,milesfromany never,everheardthatvoice.Justbeforethe river,sotheycutthemdownonthespurof abouttheriver. sungottotreetoplevel,orperhapsthetree themomentandcrossedthefloodedcountry toplevel,lateintheafternoons,someone Theshearersknewwherethewaterholewas. thiswaytoanothersandhillwheretherewas wouldgetapremonition,andsingout,“Time Iremembertalkingtooneoftheshearers wildlife.Icouldn’tseethemcarryingtheir togohome.”Andwe’dbegone. fromGoodoogawhowassayingthatthe barkcanoes10or12feetlong,20to30 relaxationforthetownwhentheshearers Roybelievesthereisamorepracticalreason milestoanyriver. camebackfromwhereverthey’dbeen behind the legend. It is to protect children Royisoneofthosewhostillknowhowto working,wouldbetogodownontothe from unnecessary danger. Culgoa and spend the weekend fishing. makethebarkcanoes. 232 Themajorityofthosepeoplewere acertainheightitwasjustfreeforall.That’s Aboriginal.Thatwastheirwayofcontinuing whenyoujustdidn’thavethatpeakforvery theirconnectionwiththecountry.Fishing longanymorewhichwasashamebecauseit wasnotonlyagoodfoodsourceforthem, wouldbeonthecountryandoffagainandit butawayofbeingabletoimparttheir didn’treallyhavemuchtimetosoakin. knowledgeontotheirkidsandjustalso Especiallyontheextremities. spendaverypleasantweekendonthe RoryTreweekebelievessomeofthe riverbank,enjoyingthefishing. floodplainvegetationissufferingasaresult, Margaret(Pop)andPeterPeterson,who whereasothersareokayfornow: managedBrendaStationatGoodoogaon Thevegetation,dependingonwhereitison theCulgoafor27yearssawthattheriver thefloodplainandwhatthereturninterval CulgoaRiveratBrendaStation,Goodooga,duringa wasalsovitaltowildlifeaswell. is,hasadaptedtothatregime.Wherethe dryspell.Photosource:PopPeterson. Weusedtonoticewallabiesontheother smallfloodshavebeendeniedbecauseof bankfromthehouse,inadrought,would waterextractionupstream,therehasbeena pulltheduckweedin.Andwhentheyhada lotofcoolabahkilled,simplybecauseofthe pilethey’dsitthereandeatitthenthey’d lackofwater.Intheintermediateareas, pullanotherpilein.Becausewewereonthe therearesignsofitdying,butsomeare othersideoftheriverwecouldseethatthis holdingon.Outontheareasthatonlygeta washappening.Itwasalittleswamp floodonceevery10or15years,the wallabythatusedtodoitfairlyregularly. vegetation,includingthecoolabahs,isstill quitehealthy. Asirrigationdevelopmentblossomed aroundthem,theyalsonoticedthechanges Roryreflectsthat,fortheNarran,it’slucky intheriver,especiallyduringfloodtimes. theriverwasnotasdesirabletotheearly Popexplains: boatingindustry. Youstillgetthewaterfloodatthesame It’sneverbeenanavigableriver.Sowhat time.Butthedurationofthefloodbeingon snagswerethere,havestayedthere.And, thecountrywasdramaticallylimitedbecause fromthatpointofview,verygoodfish CulgoaRiveratBrendaStation,Goodooga,during thewaterupstreamwasbeingtakeninto habitat,particularlyinthelargewaterholes flood.Photosource:PopPeterson. storageallthetime.Thewaterhadtoreach thatareanaturalrefugeduringthedrought acertainheightbeforeirrigatorswere allowedtotakewater,butonceitgotabove 233 Visions for the Culgoa-Balonne Thepeoplewhocontributedtothisproject Aspartofastudyontheeconomicand havealltalkedabouttheirhopesforthe socialimpactsofreducedirrigationwaterin futureoftheriver.Manyfelttheyhadseen theBalonneShirein2010,oneAboriginal someimprovementsbutmostdon'tfeelthe residentsaidit’simportanttofindabalance: riverisashealthyyetastheywouldliketo We’vegottolookafterit.It’sourlife,sowe seeit.Eachofthesepeoplesuggestedways shouldn’tbegreedyabouthowmuchwe to help the river and in turn help provide takeout.Weneedjobsbutweneedtheriver healthyhabitatsforfish. tobehealthy,too.6 Managing the flows Stat LikeotherlandholdersintheareaRory e o The Sustainable Riversf r Audit (SRA) is an ongoing and Treweekeisconcernedabouttheamountof FloodplainvegetationontheBalonneatWarroo iv er systematicassessmentofriver: ‘healthfor23major waterbeingextractedforirrigation.Rory Station.Photo:GregRingwood. mod rivervalleysintheMDB.Environmentalerindicatorsat believesthefingerofblameoftengets Roryalsorealisesthatbetterriver includehydrology,fishandmacroinvertebrates,e‘ pointedatparticularindustrieslikericein managementcanalsostartathome. whicharemonitoredandwillhighlighttrendsover thesouthorcottoninthenorth,butthinks time.11 WhatIwouldultimatelyliketodowouldbe there is a better way to look at water tofencetheriverofffromstockdrinkingon TheCulgoa–Balonnewassurveyedaspartofthe allocation: it,becausestockdon’thaveagoodimpact CondamineValleysurveyin2005. Ourwatergetsextractedbyprivate ontheriverbanksandareasthere.Cattlein Inthe‘LowlandZone’oftheCondamineValleyfish irrigatorswhoputitintolargeonͲfarm particulartendtowanderintothe communityandEcosystemHealthwereconsidered to be in Moderate Condition. 50% of predicted native storages,whichtheyirrigatefrom.Ourmain waterholesanddefecateandurinateinit specieswerecaught,alienfishwerewidespreadand concernisthattheQueenslandGovernment andpuddlethemup,whichisnotgood.We comprisedjustoverhalffishbiomass(56%). haspermittedfartoomuchextractiononthis haveaprettyextensivefrontage,soit’snota system.Idon’tthinkit’samatterofa cheapexercisetodo,butultimately,Iwould Bonyherring,Australiansmelt,goldenperch,MurrayͲ particularindustry,it’samatterof liketofenceofftheriverandprovidewater Darlingrainbowfishwerenumerous.Carpgudgeon and spangled perch were also common. Three alien understandinghowmuchwatercanbe forstocksothatthebanksoftheriverand species,easterngambusia,carp,andgoldfish,were extractedfromariversystembeforeyou theriparianzonedon’tgetimpacted. captured. damageitsecologicalfunctioning. 234
235235 Upper
Source:DessieObst. Source:GeoffReilly.Source:GregRingwood. Source:GregRingwood. 236 BrianKuhnhasbeenaresident,fisherman, fishstockingclubmemberandFishcare volunteer.MorerecentlyBrianhasbeen involvedinriverrestorationprojects.Photo: GregRingwood. OliveandRayShooterhavelivedon DalrympleCreekfor48andover77years respectively.Intheiryoungeryearstheir livesrevolvedaroundthecreek. Photo:GregRingwood. SamBonner,GithabulElder,ispassionate abouttheCondamine.Samiskeentopass onhistraditionalandenvironmental knowledgeontothechildren,toshow themwhattherivermeanstohimandhis people.Photo:GregRingwood. NoalKuhlisakeenfishermanandfishing journalist.Heisinvolvedinthelocalfish stockingclubandhasundertakenlocal historicalresearchtoguidemanyriver restorationprojectsinhisarea.Photo:Greg Ringwood. 237
TheCondamineͲariversystemnotjustachannel, muchofitswaterisundergroundyouonlyseeits powerafterasuddendownpourreinvigoratesit.³ 238 Introducing the river and its people TheCondamineRiverrisesintheBorder TheGithabulpeoplecalledtheRainbow ThebanksoftheCondamineRiverandits Rangesthenmakesitswayalongtheeastern SerpentMochelMochelandbelievethatit tributariesalsoprovidedtheAboriginal partoftheDarlingDownsregioninSouthern livedinthewaterholesaroundWarwick.For peopleswiththefruitsofrubysaltbush, Queensland,becomingtheBalonneRiver theGithabulpeopleswimmingintheriver nativelime,winterappleandsandalwood. nearGlenmorgan.The13000km2catchment wasassociatedwithstrictrules.Thegenders TherichnessoftheUpperCondamine isoneofthemajortributariesoftheDarling weresegregatedandallocatedseparate allowedlocalclanstotradewiththeclans RiverSystem. times.Somewaterholeswerealsousedfor fromothercatchments. initiationceremoniesthatwereoutofbound Twentythousandyearsago,theBarunggam, Althoughtherehavebeensomechanges totheoppositesex³. Bigambul,Giabal,Kambuwal,Githabuland overtheyears,traditionsassociatedwiththe Jarowairpeopleknewaverydifferent TheUpperCondaminewasrichinfish, riverareasvividnowastheywerebefore CondamineRiver:acoolerclimate,different freshwaterturtles,shellfishandwaterfowlas thearrivaloftheEuropeans.AsSamBonner, plantsandanimalsand,mostimportantly,a wellasatriennialbumpercropofbunya GithabulElder,pointsout: river that flowed year round. With much of nuts. The clans would gather every three Inpasttimesaboriginalswererequiredto thewaterintheCondamineRiverflowing yearsintheBunyaMountains,northof removerubbishfromtheriverleavingitclean underground,springfedcreeksand Dalby,fromMaytoNovember,forthebunya andtidyastheyfoundit. waterholeswerepermanentwatersources nutharvest.²EuropeanrecordsofmultiͲclan utilisedbyfishandpeoplealike. Aboriginalgatheringgobackto1866when 400–500individualsfromBarunggam, Once upon a time Bigambul,Dalla,Giabal,Jagaraandthe Jarowair people gathered along Lake PriortotheEuropeansettlementtherewere Broadwater near Dalby. atleasteightAboriginalclansintheUpperͲ Condaminecatchment.TheseAboriginal Nardoo,aplantwhichgrowsintheshallow clanshaveastrongspiritualconnectionwith marginsofbillabongsalongtheCondamine, theCondamineRiver.TheBarunggampeople wasgroundtomakeatypeofpancake.The believethattheGreatRainbowSerpent bulbsofthenativeleekandwaterlilieswere calledGaiwarcarvedouttherivers,creeks usedasvegetables³. andlakesduringitsjourneyacrosstheearth. AcreekintheupperCondamineRivercatchmentwith intactriparianvegetation.Photo:CondamineAlliance.
239 The arrival of the Europeans ThefirstEuropeanexplorerinthearea,Alan Intensivelanduseanddevelopmenthas Cunningham, travelled through the resultedinaverydifferentrivertothatof The Rive catchmentin1827,namingtheDarling yearsago.Waterextractionsandweirshave r Im resultedinreducedhighflows,minor pro DownsafterthegovernorofNSW,SirRalph vemen Darling.Duringthe1840s,theearlysettlers changestoseasonalityandvariabilityanda t Tru establishedseveralgrazingenterprises.More reductioninannualwatervolumeswithin st settlementswereencouragedafter theCondamine.Reducedflowsandnutrient Queenslandbecameastatein1859,and runoffhavealsoincreasedtheincidenceof legislationwaspassedtosubdividelarge blueͲgreenalgalbloomsinthesystem. pastoralestablishmentsintosmallerblocks Theextensivefloodplainsareeasilyeroded Photo:GregRingwood. toincreasepopulation². andwiththearrivalofhoofedstockthe TheRiverImprovementTrustisastatutoryauthority Theareawitnessedasignificantincreasein CondamineRiverchangedandnowthe constitutedundertheRiverImprovementTrustAct theregionsagriculturaleconomyasthe catchmentisdegradedsignificantly.Over 1940toprotectandimproverivers,repairandprevent croppinganddairyindustriesexpanded. 60%oftheaquatichabitatisnowconsidered damagetoriversandpreventormitigatefloodingof inpoorcondition. landbyriverineflood. TheLeslieDam,southwestofWarwick,was constructedin1964withawaterstorage TheprimaryroleoftheTrustistoplan,design,finance, undertakeandmaintainstreamimprovementworks capacityof47000ML.Itwaslatermodified for the benefit of the community within its river to increase its water holding capacity to improvementarea. supporttheirrigationindustry. The Trust has the powers to undertake these functions Nowadaystheriverwatersoneoftherichest includingtheabilitytoraisefunds,enterland,occupy agricultural areas in Queensland. The 4 land,enterintocontractsandcarryoutworks . averageannualrainfallisinexcessof 600mm,mainlyfallingduringthesummer IntheupperCondamineRivertheTrustremoved months.Alluvialflatsadjacenttoandeastof habitat,vegetationandsnags,formingachannelwith increased water velocities, leading to elevated erosion theCondaminearefertileandparticularly issuesandincreaseddownstreamfloodinginmany suitedtocropping. cases.Thisimpactedheavilyonnativefishpopulations.
240 Brian Kuhn – The passion of a farmer BrianKuhnhasbeen Soitwasaneasywaytolearntofish anyway. workingasafarmer Spa sincehewas17years Brianrememberscatchingmanyfish,but ngle (Leiopotherapond unicolourp Ͳ old.Helivesona mostlycatfish. erch property that borders bobby,spangledgrunter,nicky) Wellthemajorityoffishwecaughtwere KingsCreek,amajor whatwecalledtheoldeelͲtailedcatfish.He tributaryofthe wasthemostpredominantfishwecaught. CondamineRiver. Wecaughttheoddyellowbellyorgolden perch, even rarer, was the odd Murray cod. Brianhasfishedthe Butsincewehavestartedstockinggolden Kingssincehewasold perchandMurraycodinthesesystemsthey enough to fish. havebecomemoreprevalent. Catfish and more Photo:GuntherSchmida. The silver lining Fishing is a family past Ͳ Everyonehasasecretaboutfishing–Brian’s x Averagelength15cm,maximumlength25cm time in this part of the fatherwasnoexception. x Extremelyhardy:recordedtravellingupto16km worldandthefishing in2hoursalongwheelrutsduringthunderstorms IrememberbacktowhenDadtaughtme skillshavebeenpassed x Upstreamspawningmigrationstriggeredby fishing in the creek years ago. We had a little downfromgeneration summerfloodsandtemperaturesexceeding fishcalledthebobbyperch.Nowtheyonly togeneration 26ºC evergrowtoabout15cm.That’sprobablyas x Highlypredatoryfishthatwilleatanythingitcan unchanged. big as they grow and once you got them on swallow Brianlearnedhowtofishfromhisfather thebitetherewasalittlefeedingfrenzy,Dad x Mostwidespreadnativefreshwaterfishin usedtoputalittlepieceofsilverpaperoutof whohadaneasywaytoteachthekidswhen Australia they’dcaughtafish. histobaccopouchandthey'dtakethat.SoI meanifyourunoutofwormsjustputabitof x Riverregulation,coldwaterpollutionand reducedfloodsarethreatstospangledperch Hehadafloatontheendofhislineandthe silverpaperontheendandputitinthe linewassuspendedaboutprobably3or4 waterandflick.Probablyworkslikeanearly x RemainsabundantacrossthenorthernBasin feetunderthewaterand,you'dsittherein versionofalure. theafternoonandwhenthecorkstartedto bobupanddownyouknewyouhadabite.
241 WhenteachinghersontofishOliveShooter Gonearetheolddaysofjustthrowingafish Righting the wrongs lovedthespangledperch. ontheBBQ,scalesandallbecauseyoudo getaverymuddytasteoutoftheflesh. Briannoteshowattitudeshavechanged Spangled perch are the most beautiful little Therearevariousrecipessoakingthemin overtheyears.Hehasworkedwithlocal fish you’ve ever seen. They’re a dear little milkorsoakingtheminsaltywaterafter authoritiestoimprovethissectionofthe fish. For mothers introducing their sons to you'vefilletedthem.Thebestistoleaveit CondamineRiver. fishing, they were the best thing you could overnightinthefridgeandthennext ever get, because as soon as the bait hits the Inthelastthreeyears,moneywasallocated morningyouwillseeallthefatareasonthe water they grabbed it. You could catch them heresowecouldstartputtingsnagsbackin fleshhavesolidified.Allyoudoiscutthat with a pin on a string. You could just throw it thewater.Inthisgeneralareaof500metres awayandgivethattothecatandthenice in, and whatever you had as bait, they would there12big,bigtreeswereplonkedbackin clearfleshittastesfine.TheMurraycod bite on it. I think they were the best fun for thewater. doesn'tseemtohavethatproblemassuch. mothersandsmallboys. Losing the banks Doing what young people do Oneofthemajorissuesinrelationtothe ToBrian,theriverprovidedalotmorethan habitatlossintheUpperͲCondamineisthe justthefish. removalofsnagsfromtheriverchannel. Livingonthecreek,ourhousewaslessthan Brianremembers: 100metresfromthewater.We'djustpop Inthe1960s,therewasaschemegoing.It downintheafternoonandcatchafish.But wasrunbytheCondamineRiverTrustand asIgrewolderandstartedhavingfriends theirjobwasfundedbytheGovernmentto ResnaggingatBowenvilleReserve.Photo:NoalKuhl. we'dcomeouthere,15kmoutofClifton, removeallthetreesandsnagsoutofthe campthenight,haveafishand,youknow, streams.Itwastoletthewatergetaway dowhatyoungpeopledo. faster,toallegedlystopfloodingdownthe streams.Well,Ithinkitmadeitworse, The secret of preparing a fish becauseIthinkitmadethewaterflowalot Itseemsregularfishingcreatessome fasterandtherewasalotmoredamageand practicalwaysofpreparingandcookingfish, erosiondonetothebanks. especiallywhenthetasteofthefishfilletsis taintedwithasomewhatmuddytaste. NoalKuhlreleasingaMurrayCodcaughtamongst reintroducedsnags.Photosource:CondamineAlliance.
242 Sam Bonner – Traditional river connections here,becauseit’sdeep,sodeepitwas SamBonnerisaGithabulElderwholivesclose bottomless,itgoesintothebigunderground toEmuCreek,oneoftributariesofthe stream.It’slikeabigseaofwater,allthis CondamineRiver.Hehasacloseconnection country,underneaththere.Therearepassage withtheriver. ways,andthesethingsmightcomeupdown Sampointstoariverredgumwhosetrunkstill TweedHeadsorsomewhere,ortheymight bearsthedeepscarfrombarkremovedto comeupoutatCunnamulla.Sothisisasacred constructacanoeover160yearsago. waterhole,thisplace.We’reneverallowedto swim here on account of they said there’s AccordingtoSam,canoesweremadebythe some prehistoric animal or something that’s in localaboriginalsnotfortheirownusebutto here. No one knows what it is, you know. But it tradewithotheraboriginaltribesforlocally has been sighted back in them days. Some unavailableproductssuchasochrefor describe it as like a big overgrown wombat. painting. Hereweare,infrontofascarredtree.See howtheycutaroundthatsappypart,and tookallthatout.Theyusedtodothatwith wedges.Theyhadspecialmaterialtomake wedgesoutof,youknow,likespecialstone. Andtheycutthemandmarkthemallthe wayaroundandthentheywedgeit.They wedgeallthatout.Thatiswhattheyusedto makethecanoeoutof.
An underground sea SamBonnerandthecanoetree.Photo:GregRingwood. TheGithabulpeoplemaintainedaclose Since way back – I was told about it, back in relationshipwiththeriver,usingstoriesto AnUpperCondamineRiverwaterhole. the1950s,theysaid70yearsbeforethe Photo: Greg Ringwood. conveytheconnectivityofwatersaboveand animalthingwassightedhere.Mumandthe below ground. otherelderstoldmeevery70or80years thosethingscomebackandshow themselves.Theycomeupfromunderneath
243 Only take what you need Weworkedinsawmillsandthings.Wenever hadthatmuchsparetime.Weekendswere Samlearnedhowtofishfromhisaunties. theonlytimewehad,andthenifwewere Theyoftenwentfishingtobringhomea luckywe’dgettotown.Ifnotwe’dcome feedforthefamily,alwayscatchingwhat fishingtotheseplaces.We’vefishedallalong theyneededandonlywhattheyneeded. here.Weusedtocatchafairbitoffishback inthemdays,18or19jewandyellowbelly. Theywouldcatchaboutfiveorsixeach,and You’dgetagoodfeedeverytime. thenstartpackingupandputthefishinthe bags,andIcouldn’tunderstandmyself.I Samandhisfamilyusedavarietyofbaits used to say ‘Aunty, what are we going home whentheyfished,attachingacorktothe AsilverperchinOakeyCreek.Silverperch(Bidyanus for?We’llgetsomemore.’Andshewould lineandusing‘bobbing’techniquesto bidyanus,alsoknownasgrunter,blackbream,silver reply‘No,you’reonlyallowedtocatchso attractthefish. bream,bidyan)mediumtolargefishfoundinlowland many.’That’swhattheytaughtme.Youonly turgid,slowflowingrivers.Potentialthreatsinclude catchwhatfedthefamily,see.You’renotto Weusedtouseanythingforbait.Maybe riverregulation,barrierstomigration,alteredflow getanymore. crayfishandfrogsarenumberone, regimesandinteractionswithpestfish,likecarp.Photo: grasshoppers,crickets,andblackcrickets. NoalKuhl. Sam,hisfamilyandfriendsalwayskeptthe We’djustliftupalogorcowmanuretosee rivercleanandtidy.Forothers,suchcarefor andyou’dseeplentyofcrickets.Usethem, theriverwasnotalwaysundertaken, anything.Getthecorkbobbingsteadysoit Perchlikealotofprotection,lotsoftrees, because they’re fish that birds can get easily, especiallywhenitcametocatchingfish. makesabignoisegoing‘pop’whenitcomes up.Thebiggerandwiderthecorkthebetter especiallyKingfishersandstufflikethat, Peoplethesedaystheyfilltheirfridgeright itmakesthatnoise.Thefishhearitandthey becauseperchareonlysmall.Yougetsilver uptothetopwithfish.That’sstupid.That’s comeandtheyseethebaitmoving,andthey perchherenomorethanaboutsix,seven greedy.They’restilldoingit.Theytakebig justgoandgrabit. inches.Birdsgetanythingthattheycansee. eskiesoutthereandtheybringhomeas Theycanseeoutintheopen,butaround muchastheycancatch–unbelievableͲwhat shadetheycan’tseefish. dotheydowithitall?Theycan’teatallthat. Protecting the perch AlongtheUpperCondamine,thesilverperch EmuCreekflowsstraightintothe isconsideredtobethemostvulnerableofall Timber mills and bobbing CondamineRiver.Murraycod,yellowbelly nativefish.Althoughtheyareinabundancein andcatfishallbreedinthecreek’s Sam’sfatherwasatreeͲcutter,somost stockedimpoundments,theyarenotoften waterholes.Occasionallyyoucangetsilver familymembersworkedinthelocaltimber foundinthenaturalriversystem.NoalKuhl perch,buttheyareverysmallinthecreek. mill.Theyusedsomeoftheirfreetime putsthisdowntohabitatlossfrompast Samsays: catchingfishinEmuCreek. humanactivities.
244 Muchofsilverperch’shabitathasbeen destroyedandwildpopulationsofthemare River n veryrare.Therewasalotofdiscussioninour ve Waterplantsareimportantgebecauset theyprovide stocking group about releasing these fish. ati habitat,food,refuge,spawningandonurserysitesfor Fishermentoldus‘itsverydifficulttocatch fishandinvertebrates.Theyalsostabiliseandfilter legalsizedfishfortheesky’.Ourstocking sedimentsandinfluencewaterquality. groupcommittee’sresponsewas‘It’sour group’sresponsibilitytomakesurethis speciesiskeptaliveandhealthyinour waterways’. The importance of plants Riparianvegetationprovidesshadeandisasourceof snags,bothofwhichareimportantaspectsofhealthy SambelievestheriveralongEmuCreekhas fishhabitat.Photo:CondamineAlliance. changedovertheyears.Itispartlydueto theclearingofvegetationinandaroundthe river. It’schanged–there’snotenoughvegetation herenow–timberandstuff.Andyoucansee Ribbonweedgrowingnexttoasnag.Photo:ScottNichols. whereit’sgraduallygettingwasheddown Theplantsontheriverbank(‘riparianvegetation’)are andthebanksonthecreeksaregetting akeysourceoforganicmatterfortheaquaticsystem. narrower.That’sbecausenovegetationis Manyaquaticinvertebratesfeedondecayingmaterial theretohalttheerosion. andthese,inturn,provideafoodsourceforother invertebratesandfish.Woodymaterialwhichfallsinto Thewaterholesaregettingsmallerand riversandstreamsprovidefishwithshelteranda shallowerallthetimebecausetheyhaven’t substrateforfood,suchasalgae,andbreedingsites. beenallowedtorevegetatethemselves,now Riparianvegetationprovidesshade,whichreduces we’vegottohelpthemtorevegetate.Thisis TherevegetationofMyallCreek,atributaryofthe dailyandseasonalextremesinwatertemperature, allpartofthemaincatchmentofthe CondamineRiver,wasseverelyaffectedbythe2010 stabilisesriverbanks,slowssurfacerunoffandcanact Condamineanddefinitelyhastobelooked –2011floods.Photo:CondamineAlliance. asafiltertopollutantsandnutrients.Italsoleadsto morediversefishhabitatsthroughprovidingsnags, after. undercutbanksandvariationinthechannelbed.
245 Olive and Ray Shooter – A lifetime on the creek OliveandRay Fishing is a family pastime Shooterhavebeen marriedsince1963. Raydidnotfishmuchwhenhewasyoung, Rayhaslivedalong buthisfatherandbrotherwerekeenfishers. DalrympleCreekfor Theycaughtyellowbelly,jewfish(catfish) over77years.Olive andcod. grewupafew TheyusedtofishinDalrympleandthe kilometresfrom Condamine.Inmyboyhooddaysthecod wheretheylive weren’there,butIheardstoriesfrommy today,movingto father,whenhewasaboy,thatthereplenty theircurrenthome48yearsago. ofcodinthecreek.Theydisappearedforsome reasonorother,andtheycomebackin30 WhenhewasaboyRaycouldnotkeepaway yearsago,Isuppose.Andthey–wellthey fromthecreek. lastedupuntilthedry,Ithink,thatthatwould Oh,itwasverycarefreeandweusedtoswim havefinishedthemoff.Butoursonhascaught andplayinthecreek.Therewerewillowsin asmallcodrecently;wehadtothrowhim thecreekatthattime,andtheywerelovely backofcourse,sotheyarestillabout. Mayfliesareimportant shadytree.Itwasgood. AlthoughRaydoesnotengageinfishing, partsoftheaquatic ecosystem – and Olive is a keen fisher. She sees fishing as a Rayandhisfamilyalsooftenhadpicnics particularlylovedby alongtheriver. relaxingactivity. fishasfood. Photo:LukePearce. Weusedto–evenwhenwewereyoung, Ijustlovefishing.It’slikelookingfor haveafewpicnicsonthebank.Weusedto mushrooms,really.Youneverknowwhen you’re going to get one, do you? I used to taketheafternoontea.Itwaslovely,ithad theCondaminecouchunderthetrees.Itwas alwayssay,’Itdoesn’tmatterwhetheryou afairlynicelittlearea.Mainlyjustusand sitatthebankalldayandyoucatchnothing, it’slovely.’Thedragonflies,andeverything othernephewsandniecesthatmightcome andstay.We’djustplayaroundandmaybe thatflitsaroundthecreekarethere.Little paddlealittlebit,becauseyoucouldget wrensandkingfishersandalltheotherlittle birdlifeflitteringaround.It’sbeautiful. downintothecreekveryeasily.
246 Learning to fish OliveisnowteachinghergrandsonHarryto fishthesamewayasshedidherson. Olive’sfatherwasafisherman,andtaught Oliveandhersistershowtofish.Theyused Harryis11andarealfisherman.Hecantalk severaldifferentmethodsoffishing ofnothingelsebutfishingwhenhe’sfishing. He comes up to me wanting to go fishing betweenthem. becausehe’snotallowedtogotothecreek Dadusedtosetusalinewithacorkonitand onhisown.Hetakesaloungechairformeto we’dsitwiththatwhenwe’dgofishing. sitonwhilehefishes. Mumneverfished.Shewouldalwaystake theNewIdeaandhaveadayoutattheriver. A drier creek Itwasagoodfamilyday.Whenwewerekids andwe’dgodowntoKingsCreek,myeldest BothOliveandRayhavenoticedchangesin sisterhadanideathatifyoubobbedyou’d thecreekovertheyears.Inthe1950sand catchmore.Shecaught48spangledperch ‘60s,Olivenoticedthatthelocalwaterhole onedaybyjustbobbingthecorkallthetime. driedoutmoreregularly. Wecouldn’teverrepeatthat. Justdownhere,whereIalwaysfished,the Ineverevenuseacorknow,andIdon’tlike bighole.Wellit’sbeendryonquiteafew rodseither.Youcan’tfeelwhatthefishis occasionslatelyanditneverwasdryinpast doingwitharod.Ifyoujustholdontothe years.Wealwayshadwaterinthecreek.But line,youknowwhatthefishisdoing. thosetimesaregone. Some of the aquatic creatures have ways of Driven to distraction Olivewithoneofhercatches.Photo:RayShooter. copingwiththesechanges,asOliveexplains: Whenthefishareonthebite,notevena There’syabbiesinthelittleholedownhere. fear of the bait would stop Olive from They’reamazingreally,‘causethewaterhole andbaitup.Iwasgoingallrightuntilthey catchingafish. goescompletelydryandthere’snothing startedbiting,andthenallofasuddenI One time when I couldn’t find any worms, my thereatall.Thenassoonasitgetswaterin didn’tcareifIpickedupawillowgrubornot. son said he’d get some willow grubs, itthere’syabbiesandthelittleperch, IpickedupawillowgrubandIputitonthe something I don’t like to handle. Anyway, I spangledperch,init. hook,notrouble.Ididn’tneedtoiletpaper took the toilet paper with me, and I used to afterthat. Rayalsosaystheriverdriesoutmore get a piece of toilet paper, and pick up the regularlythanithasinthepast. willowgrubwiththat,andputitonthehook
247 I’velivedonthecreekallmylife.I’venoticed Theytriedthreedifferentthingstoaid abigchangeinthecreek.WhenIwasakid, erosioncontrolthatIcanremember.They we used to swim and play in the creek and it battered the banks down and planted grass St ate o veryrarelystoppedrunninginthosedays.It’s onthem.Thatwasmoderatelysuccessful. TheSustainablef Riversriv Audit(SRA)isanongoing and systematic assessmenter: of river health for 23 changeddramaticallynow.PartlyI’dsay Theyputawalloftyresdownthebankthere; ‘m od becauseofthe16,18yeardroughtthat toholdthecreekfromwashingbacktothe majorrivervalleysintheMDB.Environmentalerate we’vehad,andtheoverͲallocationofthe road.Thetyresweresuccessful.Andthen indicatorsincludehydrology,fishand ‘ irrigationwater. theyputpostsinandtiedlogsandbrown macroinvertebrates,whicharemonitoredandwill highlight trends over time. saplingstothemandtheybackfilledthat A changed creek then,butthatwasn’tasuccessbecausethe TheCondamineValleywassurveyedin2005.The saplingsthattheyputinverysoonrotted CondamineValleyfishcommunityandEcosystem Health were considered to be in Moderate Removalofvegetationalongtheriverhas awayanditwashedaway. affectedtheflowandcreekbanks.Ray Condition.56%ofpredictednativespecieswere caught from the “Slopes Zone”. Alien fish were recalls: widespread,andcomprisedjustoverhalffish Intheirwisdom,theRiver[Improvement] biomass(55%). Trustdecidedtogetridofthewillowtrees, Bonyherringwerenumerousandcarpgudgeons, theywereslowingdownthestreamtoo Australiansmelt,goldenperch,MurrayͲDarling much.Andtheytookthemout,andasa rainbowfishandspangledperchalsowere resultthen,thestreamranmuchfaster,and common.Threealienspecies,Easterngambusia, itscouredthebanksanditmadeitintoa goldfishandcarp,werecapturedfrequently¹. differentcreekaltogether.Insteadofthenice slopedgrassybanks,wefinishedupwitha greatscouredoutsteepbank.Itusedtotake 24hoursforthewatertocomefromthetop downtohere,andafterthatitcamefor12 hours.Beforetheflowwouldgettothe DenudedanderodingbanksontheCondamine.Photo: Condamine,itdepositedallthesilt. BrianKuhn. Inanattempttoaddresssomeofthese problems,theRiverTrustcarriedoutwork onerosioneffectedareas,somemore successfulthanothers,asRayexplains: OakeyCreek–habitatforcarp.Photo:NoalKuhl.
248 Noal Kuhl – Angler, historian and fish habitat restorer Noalbecameinterestedinthehealthofthe waterqualitywasreduced.Nowthe sewerage water is no longer being released NoalKuhlhaslivedin waterwayssofuturegenerationscould intothecreek,allthefishhavetorelyonis Oakeyareaallhislife. respectandknowthatwaterwaysare therainwaterthatfallsinthecatchment Restoring the local importantecosystemstohaveinthe zone. The creek is not as permanent as what communityandnotawatersourcetobe waterwaystotheir itusedtobe. formernaturalglory abused.In1994hejoinedtheOakey hasalwaysbeenan FreshwaterFishStockingAssociation. ambition. Throughhisinvolvementwiththefishing associationNoalbeganinterviewingthelong termresidentsforhistoricalrecordsand startedpiecingtogethersomeofthe changesthathadoccurredtothewaterholes All you saw was sewage andheadwatersoftheCondamineRiver, AsayoungstergrowingupNoalsawhow includingGowrie,WestbrookandOakey poorly the river was treated. Creek. Noal with one of the water quality samples from WhenIgrewupinthe1970s,allyoucould Thefirstsettlersonlyneededthewaterfor OakeyCreek,downstreamfromGowrieCreek.The seewassewageflowingdownthecreekand theirdomesticuse,wherethey’dbewashing waterinOakeyCreekcontainstreatedwastewater it was foamy, brown, and that certainly clothes, or feeding livestock. There was no fromtheWetellatreatmentplantinToowoombaCity wasn’teyeͲpleasing.Itcertainlywasn’t largescaleirrigationlikewehavenow.So aswellasstormwatercomesfromthecitystreets appealingaskidstocomedowntothelocal nowduringdrytimes,youwillprobablysee andsurroundingfarmland.Photo:www.nma.gov.au. creeksforafish.Soitbecameachallengeto thecreekrundry.Backinthe1960s changeallofthat.WiththeEnvironmental ToowoombaCitywasexpandingandhousing Carp country ProtectionAgencyinplace,thelocalcouncil estatesstartedcoveringoverthe wereforcedtocleanupthecreeks.The surroundingnaturalsprings,sothere’sless It’snotonlythewaterflowsthathave improvementintreatedwaterflowing waterseepingoutandfilteringintothe changedinthispartoftheCondamine– downstreambecamenoticeable.Thecreek creeksnow.Notalotofpeoplenoticed manypartsoftheriveranditscreekshave landownerstellustheynoticedbetterquality becauseseweragetreatmentwaterwas hadtheirvegetationclearedtothecreek waterinthecreeksaround1997asitgota replacingthegoodspringwater,sothe edgeandremovedfromthecreekchannel. lotcleanerandalotclearer. waterlevelbasicallystayedthesamebutthe Thishasledtoareassodisturbedthatthey
249 cannolongersupportadiverserangeof Becauseofthepopularityofbloodworms, Ringtanks and catfish aquaticlifeincludingthenativefishthat manyfishermenregularlyvisittodigfor Despitethenumerousnegativeimpactsthat oncethrivedhere.Despitecarponlyarriving them.Thisishavingagreatimpactonthe humanactivitieshaveplacedonthe intheUpperCondamineinthelate1990s, riparianvegetationwherethebloodworms waterways,NoalbelievessometimesmanͲ Noaldescribestheseareasas‘carpcountry’: areeasilylocated. madestructureshavehadapositiveeffect Basically,thisisEuropeancarpcountry:if Somefriendlyruleshavebeendevelopedto byprovidinghabitattosomenativefish. youfishhereyouwillcatchalotofcarp. lessentheimpactontheriparianzones. Oneexampleistheroleringtanks(farm Thereisbasicallynohabitatherefornative Local fishermen have their own little beds dams)playinthesurvivalofeelͲtailedor fishtolive.Therearenotreesfornativefish made up and they continually dig them over Tandanuscatfish. liveunder.It’sjusta‘glorifiedgully’.There’s for worms and look after them. That’s what hardlyanystructureinthewater,nologsin Backin1991,therewereonlythreering is needed: to limit the diggings and reduce thewater,oranythingtoholdnativefish.It’s tanksonOakeyCreek.Whathappenedis the need to go into new areas and stuff up alsoshallow,aboutfourtosixfootdeepright thatfishgetpumpedthroughwiththewater. the riparian zones. throughandthat’swhatcarplike. Whenthedamsarenearingemptyyoucan seealltheroundhollowsatthebottomof A wriggly problem thedamsindicatingeelͲtailedcatfishnests. EelͲtailscollectlittlepebblerocksandplace Therearemanydifferenttypesofbaitused theminthemiddlewhichhelptheeggsto tocatchfishintheUpperCondaminebut,as stick.TheeelͲtailedcatfishareahardynative Noalrecounts,bloodwormsareconsidered speciesthatthriveinfarmdams,asdosilver thebest,especiallythespeciesthatlivein perch.Otherpredatoryfishareless theblacksoilcountryoftheDarlingDowns. adaptabletoringtankssowithoutthe competition,catfishthrive. Thelocalfishermencometothewaterways collectingbloodwormsforbait.TheDarling Downsproducesthebestfishingbaitonthe EasternSeaboardforcatchingnativefishand thisisbecauseofthebloodworms. Groundworkedoverforbloodworms.Photo:NoalKuhl.
250 Noalandhismatesusedtohavegreat P successfishingintheringtanks. umpi Irrigation pumpsnandg drains are a problem for fish. Allyou’dcatchwaseelͲtailedcatfish.But w ate theyweretheplumpest,healthiest,fattest Thesefishareremovedfromr,the nnaturalsystem with little chance to return to theoriver,t effectively lookingeelͲtailsyou’reeverlikelytosee. fish being‘lost’fromthemainriverchannel.This Somewereover900mmlongandyou’d situationhasamajorimpactonthehealthofnative catch 14 or 15 in a session and take some 4 fishcommunitiesintheMurrayͲDarlingBasin. home.Sometimesyou’dputthemina hessianbag(especiallyifyouknewtheywere femalewithalotofeggs)andtakethem backdowntothecreekandletthemgo.Ring tanksareprolificsitesforeelͲtailedcatfish breedingontheDowns.OakeyCreekhasa Researchisongoingtofindoutwhatsortofscreens largepopulationincomparisontotherestof canbefittedtoirrigationsystemstominimisethe theMurrayͲDarlingBasinwheretheyare damagetonativefishpopulations.Photo:NSWDPI. prettyscarce.I’dsaytheringtanksareone areatonurtureeelͲtailedcatfishtoreturn them in big numbers elsewhere. Photo:NSWDPI. Someofthemoreresilientnativefishspecies, suchasspangledperch,areabletolivein storages,buttheirabilitytoreturntothe riversandcontributetotheirnatural communityislost.Researchisnowbeingdone intothedesigningeffectivescreensand figuringouthowtheycanbestbeusedto benefitbothirrigatorsandfish. RingtanksclosetoOakeyCreek.Photo:NoalKuhl.
251 Making connections
Being involved with native fish Moving toward zero till Atbusytimes,typicallyatEastertimeyou During the early settlement, fishing was a TillingofthefieldsaroundDalrympleCreek comeouthereandtherearelotsoffamilies necessityasitprovidedavitalfoodsource. hascontributedtotheturbidityofthecreek thatcampherefortheEasterweekend. Thoseinterestedinfishingonlyhadthetime waterassoilwaserodedoffpaddocksand Peoplecomefromallovertogetawayfrom tocatchafeedoffish.Thesedaysfishinghas intothecreek.Recentlyfarmershavemade itall.Theysetuptheircamp,theirlittledog becameapassionformanywhonotonly changestolandmanagementpracticesand andafire,it'smarvelloustobeouthere spendtimefishingbutalsoobservethe zerotillisgraduallybecomingmore awayfromtheratrace.Justtheriverand healthoftheriverandthenativefish prevalent.RayShooterobservedthatthis naturetoenjoy. populations.BrianKuhnexplains: hasledtoclearingofthecreekwaters: You have to take the time WestartedthefishingclubatNobbyin1988. Ithinkthatalotofthefarmersnowhave Itwasafamilyorientatedfishingclub gonetozerotill.Wellthatcertainlyhascut SamBonnerbelievesit’simportanttoteach focusedonputtingfishbackintotheriver.It downthesiltenteringthecreek.Whenwe hisyoungrelativestorespecttheriverand becameevidenttherewasaneedforan usedtoplough,thewaterthatranoffthe theirhistory.Samexplains: educationalprogramtoaidnativefishinthis paddockafterastormwasquitedirty.Since Theyusedtocomeheretoswim.Ittookme area.Thefishcarevolunteerprogram,which weknockedoffcultivating,thewaterrunsoff twoorthreeseasonstostopthem.Because wasorientatedtowardssustainablefishing, mostlyclear.Isupposeitwouldbe80%zero thisismyareawhereIwasbroughtup,I waskickedoffbytheQldDepartmentof till in this area now. know all about it. I had to do my job, do my PrimaryIndustries(QldDPI).Theyprovided duty. You’ve got to keep them legends alive, uswithbrochuresandgeneralmaterialto Escape the rat race see. In our days, we had to listen. These days educatethefishingpubliconthecorrectway it’s different they’re brought up different ofcaringfornativefish.Theprogramwas Theriverisenjoyedbymanypeoplefor Ͳ culture now. You’ve got to get through – proactiveͲnotjustsayingtheycouldnot activitiesincludingfishingandasaplaceto you’ve got to take the time to get through takeafish.Furtherextensionwasprovided spendqualitytimewithfriendsandfamily. themnow. bytheQldDPIinBrisbane,trainingusabout BrianKuhnrecallsitismostlyaplaceto fishandfishhabitat.Now,fromtimetotime relax: Icomeouthereandjustchecktheriverin generalandmakesurethateverythinglooks reasonablyhealthy.Thatispartofbeing involvedwithnativefish. 252 Visions for the Condamine Thefishingpeoplewhocontributedtothis WiththehelptheCondamineAllianceand projecthavealltalkedabouttheirhopesfor FisheriesQueensland,thesetwofishing thefutureoftheCondamine.Manyfeltthey groupsapproachtheissueofsustainingfish hadseensomeimprovementsbutmost populationsintheUpperCondaminemore don'tfeeltheriverisashealthyyetasthey systematicallythanjuststockingfingerlings wouldliketoseeit.Eachofthesefishers intothewater.Bothclubshavealsobeen suggestedwaystohelptheriverandinturn closelyinvolvedinhabitatrestorationworks helpprovidehealthyhabitatsforfish. ontheUpperCondamine.AsNoalKuhl explains: Helping fish in tough times Weaskedthequestion:whenweput FishingclubsincludingNobbyandDistrict fingerlingsinthewaterways,isitworththe effort? To answer this question we needed to FishingClubandOakeyFreshwaterFish Membersofthefishingandstockinggroupsare StockingAssociationareveryactiveͲgiving understandwhatthecreekswerelikebefore involvedinrevegetatingnumerouscreeksalongwith nativefishahandwhenneeded.Between andwhatweseetoday.Oncethechanges thelocalcouncilsintheCondamine(above)aswellas 2001and2009theUpperCondaminewas wereidentifiedwelookedatifwecould fishmonitoring(below).Photos:NoalKuhl. grippedbyoneoftheworstdroughtsin rectifythebadaspects.Wefoundthatalot ofthevegetationhadgone.Most history,resultinginasignificantnumberof importantlyploughingthebankshad waterholesdryingout.Thenativefish reducedtheriparianzone.Thatrequired requiredhumaninterventiontosurvive,as fixingsothenativefishwouldwantto BrianKuhnrecalls: return.Oncewestartedputtingfingerlings Forthepast20yearstheCondamineRiver intothecreekinthe‘80s,wenoticedan hasbeeninaprettysadstatewithonly increaseofnativeanimalsaswell.The occasionalflow.Moreoftenthannotithas farmersstartedtellingusthatkoalas, beendryholes.Eighteenmonthsago,we goannasandbirds,wereappearingonthe walkedsomeoftheriver,rescuingMurray creekquitenoticeably.Oncerevegetation codandputthemintomorepermanent began,there’sbeenmajorimprovements waterholes.We’vegotafewverydedicated from1995andwhatyouseeheretoday. peoplewholovefish. 253
Oneoftheinterpretivesigns explainingtheworkthatisbeing donetoimprovethehealthofthe creeksandriversoftheCondamine catchment.Photo:GregRingwood. 254254
Source:MillyHobson. 255 Bringing back the fish years,withthesexesremainingseparated Localprojectsaimtobringthefishbackto Coorong and Lower Lakes theriversoftheMurrayͲDarling.These formuchoftheyearuntilfemalesmigrate compliment large scale programs such as downstreamfromtheLakestotheCoorong a)CoorongandLowerLakes theMDBA’sNativeFishStrategyandThe tobreedfromJulyͲSeptember.ByJuly2010 BasinPlanthatworkwithawiderangeof RecoveryProgram recordlowwaterlevelshaddisconnected stakeholderstoensurepositiveoutcomes In2009theCoorongandLowerLakes theLakesandCoorongandseparatedthe fortheenvironmentandfishoftheMurrayͲ Recoveryprogramwasdevelopedtoaddress maleandfemalesforover3years. DarlingBasin. environmentalissuesfacingtheregionasa InAugust2010,scientists,naturalresource resultofthedroughtandtorebuildhealthy managers and river operators trialled the Theprojectslistedinthissectionprovide ecosystemsthatcanbetteradaptinthe novel solution of operating the Goolwa examplesofsomeoftheprojectsbeing future.Thelatestscience,aswellas barrage boat lock exclusively to assist undertakenineachregionacrosstheBasin. traditionalandlocalknowledge,wasusedto downstream movement of female congolli Listinginthissectiondoesnotimply tackleissueslikesalinity,acidsulfatesoils into the Coorong. As a result, for the first endorsement.Contactdetailswerecorrect andlossofhabitat. time in 4 years, an estimated 20 000 congolli atthetimeofpublication(2011/2012). Itishopedthiswillalsohelpsupportthe wereobservedmovingthroughthelockover localcommunitiesandindustriesthatrely a6weekperiod.Spawningwasconfirmedin onahealthyenvironmenttoprosper. spring/summer2010whenthousandsof ‘youngoftheyear’recruitsmigrated Formoreinformationvisit upstreamthroughthebarragefishways. www.murrayfutures.sa.gov.au FormoreinformationcontacttheSADENR b) Congolli match making LowerLakesandCoorongIconSiteManager InJuly2010,duringtheheightofthe on(08)84636800orBrentonZampattiat drought,anemergencymatchmaking SARDIon(08)82075491. servicewasinitiatedtosavethecongolli populationfrompossibleextinctioninthe MurrayͲDarlingBasin. Adultcongolliarethoughttoonlylivefor4Ͳ5 256 c)TheLakesHub Resources Katarapko TheLakesHubswereestablishedatMilang x NativeFishStrategyCoordinator,SA: a)‘KatfishReach’ andMeningiewereaninitiativeofthelocal JonathanMcPhail:(08)84634418 community,throughtheMilangandDistrict The‘KatfishReach’demonstrationproject x GoolwatoWellingtonLAP: CommunityAssociation,asawayofsharing withintheKatarapkoͲEckertCreek (08)85365612 informationbetweengovernmentandthe anabranchsystemissupportedbythe community. x CoorongTatiaraLAP:(08)87572100 MDBA’sNativeFishStrategy.Thevisionfor Ngarrindjeri Regional Authority: thereachis‘Ahealthierandmore Theyhaveprovidedalocalbaseforpeople x (08) 8531 3868 productiveaquaticandfloodplainecosystem tofindoutabouturgentenvironmental thateveryonecanenjoy.’Thekeyareasof workscarriedoutaspartoftheCoorongand x MurrayLowerDarlingRiversIndigenous activitytoachievethisvisioninclude: LowerLakesRecoveryprogramandalsoa Nations:(02)60519948 managing drainage water at the Berri wayforthecommunitytogivetheir x TheLakesHub(Milang):(08)85370808 x EvaporationBasintobenefitthe feedbackandideastogovernmentabout Lower Lakes and Coorong Icon x populationofnationallythreatened thelongͲtermplantorestorethewetland. Site Manager: (08) 8463 6800 Murrayhardyheadthatlivesthere The Lakes Hubs have also coordinated local x SADENR:(08)81244784 volunteers,whohavecarriedoutwaterand x modifyingorreplacingroadcrossings, Native Fish Australia (SA): soilmonitoring,propagatingandplanting x weirsandwetlandstructuresto: www.nativefishsa.asn.au thousandsofplantstorestorehabitatand a) improvefishpassage manageacidsulfatesoilsandtherescueand x EasternFleurieuPrimarySchool: b) allowfloodingofthefloodplainat recoveryofnativeanimalssuchasturtles (08)85370223 lowriverflows andfreshwaterfish. x PortofGoolwa&InlandRiversHistorical c) temporarilydryTheSplashand EckertCreeknorthandsoutharms FormoreinformationabouttheLakesHubs Society:13GoyderSt,GoolwaSA5214 d) improvemanagementofNgakIndau, visitwww.lakeshubs.com x SAMemory:www.samemory.sa.gov.au KatarapkoIsland,Horseshoelagoons x NationalLibraryAustralia: andGerardwetlands. www.nla.gov.au Youcangetinvolvedbyvolunteering, donatingwatertotheenvironmentand/or financial support. For more information contacttheSADepartmentofEnvironment andNaturalResources(08)85952111. 257 b)TheSeatoHumeDamprogram surveysareconductedregularly.Formore Resources informationandtogetinvolvedcontact ThisMurrayͲDarlingBasinAuthorityproject Native Fish Strategy Coordinator, South BerriͲBarmeraLAP(PaulStribley:(08)8582 x hasbegunrestoringstreamcontinuitywithin Australia: Jonathan McPhail: 2183)orLoxtonͲBookpurnongLAP(Craig theMurraybyconstructingfishwayson14 (08) 8463 4418 Ferber:(08)85822824). mainstemstructuresontheriver,including x KatfishReachDemonstrationProject: thetidalbarragesattheMurraymouth–a Similarly,theSAMurrayͲDarlingBasin KevinSmith(Chair),KatfishReach distanceof2225km!Formoreinformation NaturalResourceManagementBoard SteeringGroup:(08)85835430or contacttheMurrayͲDarlingBasinAuthority monitorsover40differentRiverMurray www.katfish.org.au on(02)62790100. wetlandsthataremanagedinsomeway– 21ofthesehavecommunitywetlandgroups x BerriͲBarmeraLAP,PaulStribley: c)Friends of Riverland Parks volunteers attached.TheBoardalsoconducts (08)85822183 Ifgettingpersonalwithwaterbirds,bushbirds, environmentalmonitoringtechnique x LoxtonͲBookpurnongLAP:CraigFerber: possums,RegentParrots,orkangaroosismore trainingforthecommunity.Formore (08)85822824 yourstyleyoucouldjointheFriendsof informationandtogetinvolvedcontact RiverlandParksvolunteersandhelpoutwith RebeccaTurner(08)85321432. x SAMurrayͲDarlingBasinNatural Resource Management Board, Rebecca theirfaunaandwetlandmonitoringactivities. TheFriendsgroupalsoconducttreeplanting, Turner:(08)85321432 weedcontrolandwalkingtrailmaintenanceif x GerardReserveCouncil(Inc),WinkieSA: youarethatwayinclined.Tofindouthowto (08)85837304 getinvolvedintheseactivities,contactthe FriendsofRiverlandParks(08)85835430. x Renmark/BerriFieldandGame Association:0488587101 d)Wetlandmonitoring x Berri&DistrictsLocalHeritage BoththeBerriͲBarmeraandLoxtonͲ Collection:BerriCommunityLibrary: BookpurnongLocalActionPlanning(LAP) (08)85952666 Associationsundertakewetlandmonitoring activitieseithersideoftheRiverMurray x MurrayPioneerNewspaper: includingMartinsBend,GurraGurraLakes, (08)85868000 YatcoLagoon,SpectacleLakes,Loveday LagoonsandOverlandCorner.Water quality,waterbirds,frogs,andtreehealth 258 Lower Darling and the Great iii)Nativefishreleases–since2005,the (b)TheMurrayͲDarlingFreshwater Anabranch CMAincollaborationwithagenciesand ResearchCentre(MDFRC) industry,localschools,communitygroups, TheMDFRChaslaboratoriesontheMurray (a)TheLowerMurrayDarling havereleasedMurraycodandgolden RiverinMilduraandAlburyͲWodongawhere CatchmentManagementAuthority perchatlocationsincludingFortCourage, theyresearchandmonitoranumberof (LMDCMA) Wentworth,Pomona,Burtundyand aspectsofaquaticecologyincluding Pooncarie.In2011,theLMDCMAalso TheLMDCMAhasbeenworkingwiththe environmentalflows,waterquality,nutrient releasedthreatenedoliveperchletsand localcommunitytoimplementanumberof cycles,algae,fishandinvertebrate southernpygmyperchfingerlingsinto activitieswithintheLowerDarlingRiverand taxonomyandecology. ThegoaLagoon. theGreatDarlingAnabrancharea: TheMDFRCcanhelpcommunitymembersto iv)HabitatimprovementͲan‘Aquatic i)Wetlandrehabilitation–Wetlandslike identifyaquaticfloraandfaunaandassist ThreatenedSpeciesHabitatManagement ThegoaLagoonhavewettinganddrying withhabitatusequeries. Zone’hasbeensetupatKaroolaReachon cyclesreinstated.Wetlandsthatwere 20kmoftheDarlingRiver.Best AspartofsomeMDFRCprojectsfishare disconnectednowreceivewaterandthose ManagementPracticesforprotectingthe taggedtodeterminewheretheymove.Apart thatwerepermanentlywetcanbegivena aquaticenvironmentarebeing fromtheirownsampling,theMDFRCrelyon dryingcycleforenvironmentalbenefits demonstratedtolandholderssotheycan recreationalfisherstocontactthemifthey thankstoimprovedwaterdeliverycontrol improve‘their’sectionofriver. catchataggedfishsothattheyknowcan structures.Otherworksincluderesnagging, learnabouttheirmovements. weedcontrolandagroundandsurface Tobeinvolvedorfindoutmoreinformation watermonitoringprogram. abouttheaboveprojects,contactLMDCMA IfyoufindafishtaggedaspartofanMDFRC on(03)50219460. projectoryouwanttofindoutmore ii)Fishpassage–verticalslotfishwayshave informationabouttheirworkphone beeninstalledatBurtundyWeir,Weir32 (03)50514050(Mildura)or(02)60249650 andPooncarieWeir,allowingfishpassage (AlburyͲWodonga)orvisitwww.mdfrc.org.au withinover512kmoftheDarlingRiver. ThreeFishHabitatManagementPlanshave beendevelopedandafishmonitoring program has been underway since 2004 withupto65sitesmonitoredeachyear. 259 Riverresources Murray River river,includingthetidalbarragesatthe Murraymouth. x NativeFishStrategyCoordinator, a)LakeHumetoYarrawonga A tri state (NSW, Victoria and SA) research SouthernNSWCharlieCarruthers: ResnaggingProject Ͳ (02)62980802 andmonitoringprogramaccompanyingthe Almost25000snagswereremovedfromthe workshasdeterminedthatsomesmallfish Lower Murray Darling Catchment x MurrayRiverbetween1976and1986.To likecarpgudgeon,Murrayrainbowfishand Management Authority: (03) 5021 9460 reversethisimpact,from2006to2009NSW unspeckledhardyheadactuallymigrate,but or www.lmd.cma.nsw.gov.au DPIreinstated4450snagsintheriver couldn’tmakeitpastthemainstembarriers. x WentworthAnglingClub,FortCourage: betweenHumeDamandYarrawonga Inresponse,dualfishwayshavebeen (03)50273097 (headwatersofLakeMulwala). developedtoallowforthemovementof largeandsmallerspecies. x MenindeeLocalAboriginalLandCouncil: Itishopedthatresnaggingwillhelptosecure (08)80914541 thelongtermviabilityofexistingnativefish FormoreinformationcontacttheMurrayͲ populationssuchasMurraycod,troutcod DarlingBasinAuthorityon(02)62790100. x DaretonLocalAboriginalLandCouncil: andgoldenperch.Theseworkseffectively (03)50274721 achieved75kmofhabitat,connectingthe x NorthernBasinAboriginalNations: remainingsmallisolatedpatchesoffish c)BidjaBila(‘MenoftheRiver’) (02)62790672 habitattocreatelargeviableareasofhabitat. IndigenousLandcareGroup x MurrayLowerDarlingRiversIndigenous FormoreinformationcontactCameronLay ThisgroupworksonanareanearAlburyͲ Nations:(02)60519948 on(02)67388520. Wodongacontrollingweedsandplanting nativetreesandgrassesthatwillcreate x WentworthShireLibraryandWentworth morehabitatforlocalendangeredfauna. HistoricalSociety:(03)50275060 b)TheSeatoHumeDamprogram ThegroupissupportedbytheNorthEast x NationalLibraryAustralia: Thisprojectaimedtoensurenativefishcan CMA(Victoria). www.nla.gov.au migratefromtheseaandCoorongestuary FormoreinformationcontactRichard rightuptoHumeDamatAlburyͲWodonga,a Kennedyon0428266786. distanceof2225km.TheMurrayͲDarling BasinAuthorityhasbegunrestoringstream continuitywithintheMurraybyconstructing fishwayson14mainstemstructuresonthe 260 d)CommunityFishTaggingProgram Riverresources Goulburn TheMurrayCMA(NSW)isdevelopinga x NativeFishStrategyCoordinator, a)Holland’sCreekDemonstration communityͲbasedfishtaggingprogramfor Southern NSW, Charlie Carruthers: Reach theMurraycatchment,triallingitfirstinthe (02)62980802 Edward Wakool system. Fish caught during ThisprojectissupportedbytheMDBA's Ͳ x MurrayCatchmentManagement competitions will be identified, measured, NativeFishStrategyandmanagedbythe Authority(NSW):(03)58801400 andmicrochipped,beforebeingreleased. GoulburnBrokenCMAandArthurRylah Fisherswillbeprovidedwithhandheld x GoulburnBrokenCatchment Institute(DSE).Theprojectaimstodisplay scanners,sotheycanidentifyfishcaptured ManagementAuthority(Victoria): thepositivebenefitsofriverrehabilitation andtellresearchersaboutfishmovements. (03)58201100 fornativefish,particularlythethreatened Macquarie perch (Macquaria australasica). FormoreinformationcontactJohnConallin x NorthEastCatchmentManagement The creek is also highly valued for passive on(03)58801400. Authority(Victoria):(02)60437600 recreation,watersupplyandfamilyheritage x MurrayLowerDarlingRiversIndigenous values. Nations:(02)60519948 x CorowaAnglersClub:(02)60333180 Manyactionsarebeingundertaken includingmonitoringoffishpopulations, Lake Mulwala Angling Club: x waterqualityandstreamsideconditionand (03) 5744 2258 mappingofsnags.Ongroundworkshave x CorowaDistrictLandcareGroup: includedweedcontrol,fencing,erosion (02)60330947 controlandrevegetation.ACommunity x EchucaLandcareGroup(includeswork ReferenceCommittee,comprising on the banks of the Murray and landholdersandrepresentativesfroma OneofthesnagssoontobeprovidinghabitatforMurray CampaspeRivers):(03)54821560 rangeoforganisations,meetregularly. codintheMurrayRiver.PhotoNSWDPI. Informationsheets,fencesignsanda x Waterwatch(hostedbytheMurray webpagehavealsobeendevelopedand CMA):AnthonyConallin:(02)60512217 field days have been held. x EchucaHistoricalSociety:(03)54801325 Tofindoutmoreaboutthisprojectandhow between11am–3pm youcangetinvolved,contacttheGoulburn x NationalLibraryAustralia: BrokenCMAon(03)58201100,orvisit: www.nla.gov.au www.gbcma.vic.gov.au/hollandscreek 261 b)TheRiverConnectproject Riverresources Ovens Thisprojectaimstoestablishaconnection x NativeFishStrategyCoordinator, (a)OvensRiverDemonstrationReach betweentheGreaterShepparton VictoriaFernHames:(03)57720273 Activitiesarebeingundertakentoimprove communityandBrokenandGoulburnRivers. Goulburn Broken CMA, Shepparton: x conditionsfornativefishliketheMurraycod Itaimstoraiseawarenessofthe (03) 5820 1100 andtroutcodbymaintaining,creatingand environmental,cultural,recreationaland x SeymourAnglingClub:POBox898 restoringhabitatwithintheriverand economicvalueoftherivers.Manygroups Seymour3660or(03)57923260 reducingtheeffectsoflanduse. areinvolvedintheprojectincludingthe GreaterSheppartonCityCouncil,the x AlexandraAnglingClub:POBox26 TheNorthEastCMAandArthurRylah GoulburnBrokenCMAandotherkeynatural Alexandra3714or(03)57721773 Instituteareworkingwithcommunity resourcemanagement,Aboriginaland x YortaYortaNationAboriginal groups,LandCare,landownersandschools educationalorganisations.Therearefour Corporation,Barmah:(03)58693353or tocontrolweedsanderosion,revegetate workinggroups:Communications,Aboriginal [email protected] andinstallfencingalongtheriveredgeand Participation,LandManagementand mapandreinstatesnagsinthewater.Fish x BangarangGoulburnMurrayTribe Education. populations,waterqualityandriparian AboriginalCorporation,Shepparton: vegetationarebeingmonitoredtoseewhat RegularRiverConnectnewslettersprovide [email protected] changesoccur.Educationactivities, informationoncurrentactivities. x TaungurungClansAboriginal includingelectrofishingͲsurvey, FormoreinformationontheRiverConnect Corporation,Tarneit: demonstrationshavealsobeenheld.Tofind projectsandeventscontactCouncil's [email protected] outhowyoucangetinvolved,contactthe CultureandCommunityStrengthening x MurrayLowerDarlingRiversIndigenous NorthEastCMAon(02)60437600. branchon(03)58329714orvisit: Nations:(02)60519948 www.greatershepparton.com.au/council/en (b)RestoringOurWaterways(ROW) x NagambieLandcare,PeterRobinson: vironment/watermanagement/riverconnect. Thisgroupworkswithcommunitygroups (03)57942274 html andgovernmentagenciesonprogramssuch x SeymourandDistrictHistoricalSociety, asAdoptaWaterway,WaterWeekand Seymour:(03)57922311 NationalTreePlantingDaytoraise x SheppartonHeritageCentre, awarenessofwaterissuesandprovide Shepparton:(03)58217717(afterhours) opportunitiesforpracticalrestorationofour waterways. 262 ThegrouphasseveralprojectsontheOvens Resources RiverandnearbyOneMileCreek,working Native Fish Strategy Coordinator, withlocalstudentstoproducetheCroaker x Victoria: Fern Hames: (03) 5772 0273 newsletterandparticipateinlocalevents. ThegroupispartoftheWangaratta x BangarangGoulburnMurrayTribe SustainabilityNetwork.Getinvolvedby AboriginalCorporation,Shepparton: contactingDiFarmeron(03)57223823. [email protected] (c)WangarattaUrbanLandcare x YortaYortaNationAboriginal (WUL)Group Corporation,Barmah:(03)58693353or [email protected] WangarattaUrbanLandcaregroupis workingtoimproveriverhabitatinurban x TaungurungClansAboriginalCorporation, Wangaratta.Thegrouphasrestoredthe Tarneit:[email protected] degradedriparian(riveredge)woodlandin x MurrayLowerDarlingRiversIndigenous KalunaParkReserve,publishedavegetation Nations:(02)60519948 guideforriparianareas,andundertaken platypusandowlsurveys. x NorthEastCatchmentManagement AnelectrofishingdemonstrationontheOvens. Authority:(02)60437600 Tofindoutmore,andgetinvolvedcontact Photo:FernHames. ElaineJacobsen:[email protected] x SeymourAnglingClub:(03)57923260 (d)UpperOvensValleyLandcare x AlexandraAnglingClub:(03)57721773 Group x NagambieLandcare,PeterRobinson: (03)57942274 TheUpperOvensValleyLandcaregrouphas beenactivelyclearingwillowandblackberry x WangarattaHistoricalSociety: alongtheOvensRiverfromPorepunkahto (03)57212957 Germantownoverthepastfewyearsandis x BrightandDistrictHistoricalSociety: planningseveralprojectsincludinganative (03)57551949 fishsurvey,WaterwatchandAdoptͲaͲstream programs.Tofindoutmoreorgetinvolved OvensRiverDemonstrationReachsign. x AustralianNationalLibrary: Photo:FernHames. contactTrevorDanger0439393019. www.nla.gov.au 263 Upper Murrumbidgee Togetinvolved,phonetheParkCare Coordinatoron(02)62057384or132281, (a)UpperMurrumbidgee orformoreinformationandregistration DemonstrationReach(UMDR) formsgoto: TheUMDRwasestablishedin2009ina www.tams.act.gov.au/play/pcl/get_out_ther 70kmreachoftheMurrumbidgeeRiver e/volunteering/parkcare stretchingfromBredboinsouthͲeastNSW downstreamtoCasuarinaSandsinthe southernsuburbsoftheACT. (c)SouthernACTCatchmentGroup/ Inthisreachanumberofthreatenednative MolongloCatchmentGroup speciesarepresentincludingtroutcod, Both these groups act as umbrella CommunityͲbasedmonitoringofnativefish Murraycod,Macquarieperch,silverperch, populationsisjustoneoftheactivitiesundertakenin organisationsforotherenvironmental twospinedblackfish,andMurraycrayfish. theUpperMurrumbidgeeDemonstrationReach. groupsinACTincludingLandCare,and Photo:CharlieCarruthers. Landholdersandagenciesareimproving WaterWatchandprovideinputinto conditionsforthesespeciesandaquatic catchmentmanagementactivitiesandplans. habitatgenerallybyremovingbarriersto (b)ParkCareisapartnershipbetweenthe TheSouthernACTCatchmentGroup fishmigration,controllingintroducedcarp ACTGovernmentandcommunityvolunteer (SACTCG)representallactiveenvironmental andwillows,reducingpollutioninputsand groupswhohaveaninterestinthenatural groupsinthesouthernareasoftheACT. monitoringthe‘Bidgeeandtheorganisms environment.Volunteerscancontributeto ContactSteveWelchfromTuesdaytoFriday thatrelyonit. theprotectionoflocalparks,nature on(02)62966400. reservesandNationalParksintheACT, Togetinvolvedorgetmoreinformation TheMolongloCatchmentGroupislargelyin includingtheMurrumbidgeeRiverCorridor. contactLukeJohnsonon(02)62053168or NSWandextendsfromtheMurrumbidgee LisaEvanson(02)62072117. Volunteerscangetinvolvedinseed totheheadwatersoftheMolongloand collection,plantpropagation,treeplanting, QueanbeyanRivers.ContactAndyWestcott weedremoval,erosioncontrol,vegetation on(02)62992119. mapping,waterqualitymonitoringand maintenanceofheritagesites. 264 (d)UpperMurrumbidgeeWaterwatch Riverresources Namoi Waterwatchvolunteerscanbeanyonewho x NativeFishStrategyCoordinator a)TheNamoiDemonstrationReach caresabouttheirlocalwaterway. (SouthernNSW),CharlieCarruthers: Worksarebeingundertakenover Waterwatchersvolunteerintheirlocal (02)62980802 approximately120kmoftheNamoiRiver regiontocollectandanalysewatersamples, x UpperMurrumbidgeeDemonstration anditstributariesbetweenGunnedahand undertakeassessmentsoftheirlocalwater Reach:LukeJohnston:(02)62053168orNarrabritobenefittheriverandimprove bugsandriparianvegetationandhelpwith LisaEvans:(02)62072117 conditionsfornativefish. anannualfrogcensus.Volunteerscanspend afewhourseverymonthoracouplehoursa x MurrumbidgeeCMA:(02)62297711or TheMDBA’sNativeFishStrategysupports year. [email protected] NSWDPI,theNamoiCMA,local communities, industries, Councils and IntheACT,contactTanyaNoakeson(02) x KosciuszkotoCoast:(02)62992119or recreationalfisherstoreinstatesnags, 62072246.IntheupperMurrumbidgee [email protected] (Coomaregion)contactAntiaBrademannon improvefishpassage,controlerosion, x CapitalRegionFishingAlliance(CRFA): (02)64524611. sedimentandnutrientinputs,remove contact:[email protected] weedsandreplantriparianvegetation. x BillabongAboriginalDevelopment Todateover240snagshavebeen Corporation:(02)62784799. reintroducedandover14kmofriveropened up with 3 fish passage barriers addressed. x NgunnawalLandCouncil:(02)62974152 Twenty six kilometres of fencing and 13 off x MurrayLowerDarlingRiversIndigenous Ͳ stream watering points have improved stock Nations:0260519948 managementaroundthewaterways,with x ACTGovernment: over20kmofwoodyweedsremovedand www.tams.act.gov.au/live/environment replacedwithmorethan11000native x AustralianNationalLibrary: plants! www.nla.gov.au FormoreinformationcontactNSWDPI Conservation Manager, Milly Hobson on x QueanbeyanHistoricalSociety: Understandingalienfishdistributionandabundance, (02)67631206. suchasthesemosquitofish(GambusiaholbrookiͲ 0262997449 circled)iscriticaltotheirmanagement. Photo:CharlieCarruthers. 265 c)RedChiefAboriginalLandCouncil Riverresources Culturalsurveysandtreeplantinghavebeen x NativeFishStrategyCoordinator, undertakenbyRedChiefALCaspartofthe NorthernNSW,AnthonyTownsend: NamoiDemonstrationReachproject.The (02)67631440 Councilalsohastheirownpropagationunit x NamoiCatchmentManagement growingnativetreesandaquaticplants. Authority:(02)67429220 FormoreinformationcontactRedChiefALC x NarrabriAmateurFishingClub on(02)67423602. TonyWilliams:0428661358 d)BoggabriLandcareͲRivercare x RedChiefAboriginalLandCouncil Group RobertHorne:(02)67423602 ThisgroupisactivearoundBoggabri x NarrabriAboriginalLandCouncil removingwillowsandotherweedsand KoorineTrindall:(02)67924228 revegetatingalongtheNamoiRiver. x NorthernBasinAboriginalNations: OneoftheDemonstrationReachsigns. FormoreinformationcontactRobynWatson Photo:MillyHobson. (02)62790672 on(02)67434576. x BoggabriLandcareͲRivercareGroup d)NarrabriCommunityBushcare b)TheNarrabriAmateurFishingClub RobynWatson:(02)67434576 Group InconjunctionwithNSWDPI,thisfishing x NarrabriCommunityBushcareGroup Narrabri Bushcare work with land owners to clubhaveheld‘CarpMusters’annuallyover RoseBroderick:(02)67924596 improvetheirproperty,promotingnative thelastfouryearstocreateawareness x NarrabriandDistrictHistoricalSociety vegetationaroundNarrabri.Theyhold abouttheimpactsofcarponnativefishand Don Douglas: (02) 6792 5100 community tree planting days at locations toinvolvethecommunity.Thefishingclub including the Namoi Demonstration Reach. x NarrabriCourierandWeeWaaNews alsoundertakeannualcodandyellowbelly Ian Dunnet: (02) 6792 1011 stockingofNamoiRiverandcontributeto FormoreinformationcontactRose treeplantingdaysaspartoftheNamoi Broderickon(02)67924596. x NationalLibraryAustralia: DemonstrationReachproject. www.nla.gov.au FormoreinformationcontactTonyWilliams on0428661358. 266 Upper Darling: Brewarrina to (b)NgembaBillabongRestoration Riverresources Bourke andLandcareGroup x NativeFishStrategyCoordinator (a)BrewarrinatoBourke Therivers,lakesandfloodplainsof (NorthernNSW)AnthonyTownsend: DemonstrationReach BrewarrinaNgembaBillabongarea (02)67631440 significanthistoricalandculturalsiteforthe x BrewarrinatoBourkeDemonstration ThisDemonstrationReachisbeingmanaged NgembaAboriginalpeople. ReachCoordinatorDavidCordina: byNSWDPIFisheriesincollaborationwith From 1876 to 1967 the Ngemba Billabong (02)68811277 theWesternCatchmentManagement was the Brewarrina Aboriginal Mission for Authority. x NgembaBillabongRestorationand local Aboriginal people whose land was LandcareGroup:(02)68722144 NSWDPIandtheWesternCMAhave takenforgrazing.Priortothis,Brewarrina workedwithlandholdersaroundBrewarrina wasanimportanttribalmeetingplace. x WesternCatchmentManagement andBourketoundertakeactivitieslike Authority:(02)68722144 The land is now listed on the NSW State resnaggingtheriver,controllinggully Heritage Register as an Indigenous x NorthernBasinAboriginalNations: erosionandplantingriparianvegetation. ProtectedAreaandcaredforbythe (02)62790672 DemonstrationReachworksalsoaimto traditionalowners.Whilemanagingthe x BourkePublicLibrary:(02)68722751 minimisetheeffectsoffishpassagebarriers river,floodplainandwetland,special andpestfishonnativefishsothattheycan emphasisisplacedoneducatingmembersof x BrewarrinaandDistrictHistoricalSociety undertakebreedingmigrationswithinthe thecommunityabouttraditionalvalues, (viaBrewarrinaTouristInformation BarwonͲDarlingandhavedecreased Aboriginalhistory,andsocialinclusiveness. Centre):(02)68392152 competitionfromintroducedspecies. Tofindoutmoreaboutthisprojectortoget x AustralianNationalLibrary: Ifyouwouldliketogetinvolvedorwantto involved,contacttheNgembaBillabong www.nla.gov.au know more, contact David Cordina on RestorationandLandcareGroupon (02)66811277. (02)68722144. 267 Paroo River organisationsandindustrygroupstoachieve a)Interstateagreementonwater sustainablenaturalresourcemanagement Riverresources extraction andfosterslandcareandcatchment x NativeFishStrategyCoordinators: TheNewSouthWalesandQueensland managementethics. GregRingwood(Qld):(07)32242164 GovernmentssignedanInterstate Itisresponsibleforregionaldeliveryof AnthonyTownsend(NSW):(02)67631440 th Agreementonthe18 ofJuly2003to naturalresourcemanagementprogramin x SouthWestNaturalResource protecttheParooRiver,itswetlandsand theBulloo,NebineͲMungallalaͲWallam, ManagementGroup floodplains.Theagreementstopstheissue ParooandWarregocatchments. JulieFrousheger:(07)46568520or ofadditionalwaterlicencesotherthenthose ThemainofficeofSouthWestNRMis email:[email protected]or forminorirrigationandurbanwateruses.In locatedinCharleville.Formoreinformation, www.southwestnrm.org.au additiontheQueenslandGovernmentissued phone(07)46568500oremail amoratoriumontheconstructionofnew x WesternCatchmentManagement [email protected] waterinfrastructureson9June2001. Authority MareeBarnes:(02)68412749or The Intergovernment Agreement for the c)WesternCatchmentManagement www.western.cma.nsw.gov.au ParooRiverbetweenNewSouthWalesand Authority Queenslandcanbeobtainedat x ABCRural:www.abc.net.au/rural www.water.nsw.gov.au/Water management/Law TheWesternCatchmentManagement Ͳ Ͳ x CharlevilleFishingandRestockingClub andͲpolicy/IntergovernmentalͲ Authorityhasbeenestablishedtoensure Judey Aiken: (07) 4654 1777 agreements/default.aspx#paroo thelocalcommunityhasasignificantsayin themanagementofnaturalresources x QueenslandParksandWildlifeService b)SouthWestNaturalResource includingland,vegetation,rivers, (Charleville):(07)46544712 ManagementGroup groundwaterandbiodiversity.Itassiststhe x NSWParksandWildlifeService: localcommunityinbeingactivelyinvolvedin SouthWestNaturalResourceManagement (02)99955550 naturalresourcesmanagementinitiatives. isthedesignatedregionalbodyfornatural x ParooShireCouncil:(07)46558440 resourcemanagementinSouthWest Formoreinformation,goto Queensland.Itworkswiththecommunity www.western.cma.nsw.gov.au x NationalLibraryAustralia: and the community based groups, www.nla.gov.au traditionalowners,government 268 Culgoa - Balonne a)QueenslandMurrayͲDarling NorthernMurrayͲDarlingBasinin TheWesternCMAassiststhelocal Committee Queensland.Theareaalsoincludesthe communityinbeingactivelyinvolvedin catchmentsoftheCulgoaandBalonneRivers. naturalresourcesmanagementinitiatives. TheQueenslandMurrayͲDarlingCommittee TheAboriginalRangersworkwithland Twoofthemanagementtargetsrelatingto (QMDC)isacommunityͲbased,notͲforͲprofit managers to boost the sustainability of the improvingriversinclude: organisationthatdeliversnaturalresource Basin.Theprogramwillresultinanexchange managementservicesalongthepartsofthe ofAboriginalculturalknowledgealongwith •Habitatimprovementin20%ofidentified MurrayͲDarlingBasinwithinQueensland, strongnaturalandculturaloutcomes.The prioritystream,floodplain,wetlandand includingtheCulgoaͲBalonneCatchments.Its catchmentbasedactivitiesthatarecarried riparianareasby2016. mainobjectivesincludeimprovingthehealth outwithintheAboriginalRangersProgram •Waterqualityandsalinitylevelsmeeting oftherivers,wetlandsandfloodplainsand aimtoimproveaquatichabitatandfish ANZECCdrinkingwaterandrecreationaluse reducingthethreatofweedsandpest populationsbyfencingriverbanks, criteriaforgreaterthan95%ofthetimeat animals.Oneofthemainpestspeciesthey undertakingweedcontrolandprotecting keytownusesitesby2016. targetistheEuropeancarp.Inadditionto sitesofculturalheritage.Forfurther The main activities include management of runningregularcarpͲbustereventstoeducate informationandtogetinvolvedcontact floodplains, improvement and management themembersofthepublicabouttheimpacts MrTroyTurnbull(07)46376200. ofthecarponnativefishpopulation,QMDC ofriparianzone,protectionandrehabilitation isplanningtoestablishanintegratedcarp offishandthreatenedaquatichabitats, managementprogramusingfykenetswhich c)WesternCatchmentManagement improvingconnectivitybyprovidingfish passage and the control of alien species such aredesignedspecificallyforthecontrolof Authority(NSW) carps.Furtherinformationcanbeobtained ascarp.Formoreinformationgoto on(07)46376200oratwww.qmdc.org.au TheNSWWesternCatchmentManagement www.western.cma.nsw.gov.au Authorityhasbeenestablishedtoensurethe localcommunityhasasignificantsayinthe b)AboriginalRangersProgram managementofnaturalresourcesincluding land,vegetation,rivers,groundwaterand TheQMDC,incollaborationwiththeFederal biodiversity. DepartmentofSustainability,Environment, Water,PopulationandCommunitieshas developedanAboriginalRangersProgramto deliverenvironmentaloutcomeswithinthe 269 Riverresources Upper Condamine x NativeFishStrategyCoordinator, a)TheDewfishDemonstrationReach b)Restoringfishmigration Queensland,GregRingwood: TwoweirsalongtheCondamineRiverwere (07)32242164 TheCondamineAllianceNaturalResource ManagementGroupisundertakingthe identifiedasmajorbarrierstofishpassage: x NativeFishStrategyCoordinator,North CondamineRiverRescueProgramto LoudounWeirandReilly’sWeir,ahistorical NSW,AnthonyTownsend:(02)67631440 rehabilitateandprotecttheCondamine privateweir.Bothweirshavepreventedfish x QueenslandMurrayͲDarlingCommittee: Rivercatchment.Nativefishareusedasan passagesincetheirconstruction.In2009 (07)46376200http://www.qmdc.org.au indicatortogaugethehealthoftheriver bothweirshadfishwaysretrofittedto x StGeorgeandDistrictFishingand system. improvefishpassage.Theimprovementsto Restocking Club Inc.: [email protected] Reilly’sWeirallowfishmovementalongthe TheMurrayͲDarlingBasinAuthorityfunded CondamineRiverduringflowsforthefirst x CulgoaLandcareGroup:(02)68361575 NativeFishStrategy‘DewfishDemonstration timesincetheweirwasconstructedin1936. x MaranoaͲBalonneCatchment Reach’islocatedwithintheCondamine ManagementAssociation: catchment.Thisrehabilitationsiteisover FormoreinformationcontacttheMDBA (07)46226011 100kmlong. NativeFishStrategyCoordinatoron (07)32390727. x WarrooBalonneRegionalLandcareInc., TheRiverRescueProgramandtheNative JohnScriven:(07)46253634 FishStrategyareworkinginpartnershipwith x NindigullyLandcareGroupInc., landholders,localgovernmentsand LizHill:(07)46259159 stakeholderstodeliverimprovedriver healththroughimprovedlandusepractices x BalonneBeacon(newspaper): likeriparianfencing,offstreamwatering, (07)41622277 erosionandweedcontrol.Instreamworks x QueenslandNationalParksandWildlife includereͲsnagging,fishwaysandcarp Service:(07)32278186 control. x NSWParksandWildlifeService: Youcangetinvolvedwiththisprogramby (02)99955550 volunteeringorprovidingfinancialsupport. TheconstructionofReilly’sWeir.Therecent x CulgoaDreamingConsultancy: FormoreinformationcontactKevinGraham installationofafishwayonthisstructureisgivingfish (02)68724647 orCondamineAllianceon0418411351. accesstohabitatthathavenothadsince1936. Photosource:GeoffandSueReilly. x BalonneShireCouncil:(07)46208888 270 c)CondamineHeadwatersLandcare RiverresourcesͲ GroupInc x NativeFishStrategyCoordinator,Southern Queensland,GregRingwood:(07)32390727 CondamineHeadwatersLandcareGroup’s /0423829028 initiative‘LoveMyRiver’aimstoengagethe Condamine Alliance, Kevin Graham: 0418 communitytobetterunderstandthe x 411351,http://condaminealliance.com.au catchmentandtheriverenvironment.It includesstorytelling,acatchmentcrawl, x CondamineCatchmentManagement Association, Mary Lou Gittins: waterͲbugtesting,waterwaymonitoringand Ͳ (07)46666290 more.TheinitiativecoverstheUpper CondamineAreaaroundKillarney,Dalveen, x CondamineHeadwatersLandcareGroup Inc.: (07) 4661 9909, Leyburn,MaryvaleandAllora.Formore [email protected] informationcontactElspethCooperon (07)46852096. x ChinchillaandDistrictAmateurFishingClub Inc.:POBox342ChinchillaQ4413. x ChinchillaandDistrictLandcareGroupInc: [email protected] Crows Nest Historical Society: (07) 4698 x 1776,[email protected] x OakeyFreshwaterFishStockingAssociation POBox262,OakeyQld4401 x NobbyandDistrictFishingClubInc.: [email protected] x NortheastDownsLandcareGroupsInc.: 0427024921,[email protected] x ToowoombaHistoricalSociety: (07)46387362,[email protected] x NationalLibraryAustralia:www.nla.gov.au x WarwickDistrictRecreationalFishStocking Association:[email protected] 271 272272
Photo:JodiFrawley. 273 References Allfishfactboxes,unlessotherwisestatedbelow:Lintermans,M.2007FishesoftheMurrayͲDarlingBasin:Anintroductoryguide,Canberra:MurrayͲDarlingBasinCommission.
Introduction 1.Ely,B.1981Murray/MurundiwithcontributionsfromJack&AnnieKoolmatrie,LeighHobbaandDulcieEly.ExperimentalArtFoundation,St.Peters.2.CampCoorong2006 NgarrindjeriNationYarluwarͲRuwePlan:CaringforNgarrindjeriSeaCountryandCulture,Meningie:NgarrindjeriTendi,NgarrindjeriHeritageCommittee,NgarrindjeriNative TitleManagementCommittee. 2.Ryan,J.1911Trout,perchandblackfish:howtocatchthem.Melbourne:Sandringham. 3.FromthejournalofThomasMitchell,whilecampedontheDarlingRiver,1stJune1835. 4.ErnstandYoung,2012EconomiccontributionofrecreationalfishingintheMurrayͲDarlingBasin,AreportfortheVictorianDepartmentofPrimaryIndustries,Melbourne. 5.Bennett,M.2007Theeconomicsoffishing:sustainablelivingincolonialNewSouthWales,AboriginalHistory,31:85Ͳ102. 6.Goodall,H.2006'Gender,RaceandRivers:WomenandWaterinNorthwesternNSW.'inK.LahiriͲDutt(ed.),FluidBonds:ViewsonGenderandWater,Kolkata,India:Stree books,pp287Ͳ304. 7.Goodall,H.2011.'Reclaimingculturalflows:Aboriginalpeople,settlersandtheDarlingRiver'inS.AtkinsonandA.Mayne(eds.),OutsideCountry:AhistoryofinlandAustralia, Adelaide:WakefieldPress. 8.Flick,I.andGoodall,H.2004IsabelFlick:themanylivesofanextraordinaryAboriginalwoman,CrowsNest:Allen&Unwin. 9.referSamBonner(UpperCondamine),Chapter13;PhilSullivan(UpperDarling:BrewarrinaͲBourke),Chapter10;WilliamRiley(LowerDarlingandGreatAnabranch),Chapter4. 10.referEricandCarolHannan(Namoi),Chapter9;DickandGayeLawler(UpperMurrumbidgee),Chapter8;OliveandRayShooter(UpperCondamine),Chapter13. 11.‘Langtry,J.O.’.2010Transcript,TalkingFishOralHistoryCollection. 12.BaiameisthespiritualancestoroftheNgemba/NgiyampaapeopleandmanyotherAboriginalgroupsacrosstheBasin.
Coorong and Lower Lakes 1.Ely,B.1981Murray/MurundiwithcontributionsfromJack&AnnieKoolmatrie,LeighHobbaandDulcieEly.ExperimentalArtFoundation,St.Peters. 2.CampCoorong2006NgarrindjeriNationYarluwarͲRuwePlan:CaringforNgarrindjeriSeaCountryandCulture,Meningie:NgarrindjeriTendi,NgarrindjeriHeritageCommittee, NgarrindjeriNativeTitleManagementCommittee. 3.Sim,T.andMuller,K.2004AFreshHistoryoftheLakes:WellingtontotheMurrayMouth,1800sto1935,Adelaide:SouthAustralianMurrayͲDarlingBasinNaturalResources ManagementBoard. 4.Sim,T.,Potts,L.,Hammer,M.andDoube,J.2000‘Fishes’inStrathalbynNaturalistsClubInc.(ed.),NaturalHistoryofStrathalbyn&GoolwaDistricts,Goolwa:Strathalbyn NaturalistsClubInc.,pp97Ͳ108. 5.TheMurrayͲDarlingBasinCommission2005TheRiverMurrayBarrages&Fishways,Canberra:TheMurrayͲDarlingBasinCommission. 274 6.WallaceͲCarter,E.1987ForTheyWereFishers:AhistoryofthefishingindustryinSouthAustralia,Adelaide:AmphitritePublishingHouse. 7.Bedford,F.M.SailingBoats,MoreBoatsandManyThings:ACollectionofMemoriesofBoatsandFishingonTheLakesandCoorongCompiledbetween1956and1961,Goolwa: StrathalbynNaturalistsGroupInc. 8.www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/agriculture/resources/soils/ass/general/introduction,Accessed28June2011. 9.Jennings,P.R.,Zampatti,B.P.andBice,C.M.2008.FishmovementandrecruitmentintheCoorongandLowerLakes2007/08ProgressReports.SARDIResearchReportSeries Number302,Adelaide. 10.Geddes,M.1990‘Crayfish’,inN.MackayandD.Eastburn(eds.),TheMurray,Canberra:MurrayDarlingBasinCommission,pp302Ͳ307. 11.Sheldon,F.andWalker,K.F1997ChangesinbiofilmsinducedbyflowregulationcouldexplainextinctionsofaquaticsnailsinthelowerRiverMurray,Australia,Hydrobiologia, 347:97–108. 12.www.sawater.com.au/SAWater/Environment/TheRiverMurray/Salt+Interception+Schemes.htm,Accessed14July2011. 13.Thomas,M.andFitzpatrick,R.2011CommunitymonitoringofAcidSulfateSoilsintheLowerLakes,SouthAustralia:FoursurveysbetweenAugust2009andJune2010,Project ReportNumber:RͲ325Ͳ8Ͳ4,GlenOsmond:CSIRO. 14.Bice,C.M.andYe,Q.2007MonitoringthreatenedfishcommunitiesonHindmarshIsland,intheLowerLakesoftheRiverMurray,SA,inthesummersof2006and2007with referencetobaselinedatafrom2005.SARDIPublicationNumberF2007/000551Ͳ2,Adelaide:SouthAustralianResearchandDevelopmentInstitute. 15.Ye,Q.,Bucater,L.,Ferguson,G.andShort,D.2011Coorongfishconditionmonitoring2008–2010:populationandrecruitmentstatusoftheblackbream(Acanthopagrus butcheri)andgreenbackflounder(Rhombosoleatapirina),Adelaide:SARDI(AquaticSciences). ͲMullowayfishfactbox:http://www.pir.sa.gov.au/fisheries/recreational_fishing/target_species/mulloway. ͲAdditionalcongollifishfactboxinformationcourtesy:B.Zampatti(SARDI).
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Namoi 1.Herbert,H.1973ReportoncottonchippersstrikeatWeeWaa,Sydney:AustralianCouncilofChurches;andFoster,N.K.1973Reportonthegrievancesofseasonalworkersin WeeWaaandNarrabri,Canberra:DepartmentofLabour. 2.Janiszewski,L.andAlexakis,E.2001InTheirOwnImage:GreekͲAustraliansNationalProject:TheGreekCafé,Sydney:AustralianHistoryMuseum,MacquarieUniversity. 3.Booth,J.1972OnlytheTracksRemain,Sydney:AlphaBooks;NSWRailMuseum:www.nswrtm.org/rail_history/index.html#1865. 4.Baumgartner,L.,Reynoldson,N.,Cameron,L.andStanger,J.2007TheeffectsofselectedirrigationpracticesonfishspeciesoftheMurrayͲDarlingBasin,FisheriesFinalReport SeriesNo.92,Sydney:NSWDPI. 5.TheAdvertiser(Adelaide,SA),Saturday28April1928,page11. 6.Preece,R.M.andJones,H.A.2002TheeffectofKeepitDamonthetemperatureregimeoftheNamoiRiver,Australia,RiverResearchandApplications,18:397–414. 7.Davies,P.E.,Harris,J.H.,Hillman,T.J.andWalker,K.F.2008SRAReport1:AReportontheecologicalhealthofriversintheMurray–DarlingBasin,2004–2007,Canberra:Murray– DarlingBasinMinisterialCouncil. 8.Doody,T.andBenyon,R.2011QuantifyingwatersavingsfromwillowremovalinAustralianstreams,JournalofEnvironmentalManagement,92(3):926Ͳ935. 9.Harris,J.H.2004EcologicalandFisheriesImplicationsofUpgradingKeepitDam,Sydney:HarrisResearchPty.Ltd. 10.NSWDepartmentofPrimaryIndustries2006TheAssessmentandModificationofBarrierstoFishPassageintheNamoiCatchment.ReporttotheNamoiCatchment ManagementAuthority,Tamworth:NSWDepartmentofPrimaryIndustries. 11.Koehn,J.,Brumley,A.,andGehrke,P.2000Managingtheimpactsofcarp,Canberra:BureauofRuralSciences. 12.http://www.mdba.gov.au/services/publications/snagsͲandͲresnagging. 279 13.Mulvaney,J.1994'TheNamoibunyip',AustralianAboriginalStudies(1):36Ͳ38. 14.AsquotedinHobdon,J.(ed.)c1978Tamworth:apeepatouryesteryears,Tamworth:TamworthHistoricalSociety,p45.
Upper Darling: Brewarrina to Bourke 1.Quinn,M.1997‘CommittedtoConserve:TheWesternLandsAct,1901,andtheManagementofthePublicEstateoftheWesternDivisionofNewSouthWales’,Australian GeographicalStudies,35(2):183Ͳ194;andGriffiths,T.2001‘OneHundredYearsofEnvironmentalCrisis,’RangelandsJournal,23(1):5Ͳ14. 2.Mathews,R.H.inDargin,P.1976AboriginalFisheriesoftheDarlingͲBarwonRivers,Brewarrina:BrewarrinaHistoricalSociety,p37. 3.Mullens,A.W.inDargin,P.1976AboriginalFisheriesoftheDarlingͲBarwonRivers,Brewarrina:BrewarrinaHistoricalSociety,p32. 4.1851surveyor'smap6009,Figure2,p57,inGoodall,H.1996InvasiontoEmbassy:LandinAboriginalPoliticsinNewSouthWales,1770Ͳ1972,StLeonards:Allen&Unwinin associationwithBlackBooks;Dargin1976. 5.Goodall,H.1987‘Notsucharespectedsoldier:AboriginesandWorldWar1’,TeachingHistory,21(4):3Ͳ6. 6.WesternCatchmentManagementAuthority2009TheBarwonͲDarlingRiver:AboriginalLifealongtheRiver,Bourke:WesternCatchmentManagementAuthority. 7.Goodall,H.2005'MainStreetsandRiverBanks',inS.HoodWashington,P.RosierandH.Goodall(eds.)EchoesfromthePoisonedWell,GlobalMemoriesofEnvironmental Injustice,Lanham:LexingtonBooks,p267. 8.Davies,P.E.,Harris,J.H.,Hillman,T.J.andWalker,K.F.2008SRAReport1:AReportontheEcologicalHealthofRiversintheMurray–DarlingBasin,2004–2007,Canberra: Murray–DarlingBasinMinisterialCouncil. 9.Baumgartner,L.,Reynoldson,N.,Cameron,L.andStanger,J.2007TheeffectsofselectedirrigationpracticesonfishspeciesoftheMurrayͲDarlingBasin,FisheriesFinalReport SeriesNo.92,Albury:NSWDPI. 10.TheAdvertiser(Adelaide,SA),Saturday28April1928,p11. 11.Gilligan,D.2005FishcommunitiesofthelowerMurrayͲDarlingcatchment:statusandtrends.FisheriesFinalReportSeriesNo83,Narrandera:NSWDPI. 12.Gilligan,D.2010LowerMurrayͲDarlingCatchmentActionPlan:FishCommunityMonitoringReportCardfor2009/10.FisheriesResearchReportSeries28. 13.Koehn,J.,Brumley,A.andGehrke,P.2000Managingtheimpactsofcarp,Canberra:BureauofRuralSciences. 14.Thoms,M.andSheldon,F.2000‘InͲchannelprocessesandenvironmentalflowrequirementsfortheBarwonͲDarlingRiver’,RiversfortheFuture,12:10Ͳ19. 15.Lintermans,M.2007FishesoftheMurrayͲDarlingBasin:Anintroductoryguide,Canberra:MurrayͲDarlingBasinCommission. 16.NSWGovernmentGazette,1842,p587.
Paroo River 1.Blake,T.W.1979Cunnamulla:AbriefhistoryoftheParooShire.Cunnamulla:ParooShireCouncil. 2.Koehn,J.,Brumley,A.,andGehrke,P.2000Managingtheimpactsofcarp,Canberra:BureauofRuralSciences. 3.Blake,T.andCooke,M.2006GreatArtesianBasinHistoricalOverview.Brisbane:DepartmentofNaturalResources,MinesandWater. 280 4.Davies,P.E.,Harris,J.H.,Hillman,T.J.andWalker,K.F.2008SRAReport1:AReportontheEcologicalHealthofRiversintheMurray–DarlingBasin,2004–2007,Canberra: Murray–DarlingBasinMinisterialCouncil. 5.Anon.2003IntergovernmentAgreementfortheParooRiverbetweenNewSouthWalesandQueensland.
Culgoa - Balonne 1.Lucas,D.2004Shiftingcurrents:Ahistoryofrivers,controlandchange.DoctorofPhilosophyThesis,Sydney:UniversityofTechnology. 2.McInnerney,M.2010BalonneShireeconomicdevelopmentstrategicplan.Part1–BalonneShireprofile2010,Toowoomba:MarlynMcInnerneyandAssociates. 3.Smith,L.,Nielsen,D.,Adams,J.andJames,C.2006LowerBalonnescopingstudyenvironmenttheme,Wodonga:MurrayͲDarlingFreshwaterResearchCentre,. 4.Taylor,R.B.1956.EarlysettlementintheSuratͲMountAbundancearea.JournaloftheRoyalHistoricalSocietyofQueensland5(4):1240Ͳ1253. 5.Biggs,A.andPower,E.Notdated.DrylandsalinityintheQueenslandMurrayͲDarlingBasinͲAnoverviewofcurrentknowledge,Toowoomba:DepartmentofNaturalResources andMines. 6.Stubbs,J.,Storer,J.,Lux,C.andStorer,T.2010Report4:Exploringtherelationshipbetweencommunityresilience&irrigatedagricultureintheMurrayDarlingBasin:socialand economicimpactsofreducedirrigationwater.Appendix1:BalonneShire,QLDCaseStudy,Narrabri:JudithStubbsandAssociates,CottonCatchmentCommunitiesCRC. 7.Koehn,J.,Brumley,A.,andGehrke,P.2000Managingtheimpactsofcarp,Canberra:BureauofRuralSciences. 8.Agriculture&ResourceManagementCouncilofAustralia&NZandAustralian&NZEnvironment&ConservationCouncilandForestryMinisters.2000WeedsofNational SignificanceParkinsonia(Parkinsoniaaculeata)StrategicPlan,Launceston:NationalWeedsStrategyExecutiveCommittee. 9.QldDEEDI.2009Lippia,Condaminecouch/curse,Phylacanescens.FactSheetPP61,Brisbane:QldDEEDI. 10.MurrumbidgeeCMA.NotdatedWetlandplants,slenderknotweed,smartweed–native.FactSheet,WaggaWagga:MurrumbidgeeCMA. 11.Davies,P.E.,Harris,J.H.,Hillman,T.J.andWalker,K.F.2008SRAReport1:AReportontheEcologicalHealthofRiversintheMurray–DarlingBasin,2004–2007,Canberra: Murray–DarlingBasinMinisterialCouncil. 12.Sheldon,F.andWalker,K.F.1998SpatialdistributionoflittoralinvertebratesinthelowerMurray–DarlingRiversystem,Australia.MarineandFreshwaterResearch,49:171– 182. 13.Richardson,A.andHumphries,P.2010Reproductivetraitsofriverineshrimpsmayexplaintheimpactofalteredflowconditions.FreshwaterBiology,55:2011–2022. 14.Thoms,M.,Quinn,G.,Butcher,R.,PhillipsB.,Wilson,G.,Brock,M.andGawne,B.,2002,ScopingstudyfortheNarranLakesandLowerBalonnefloodplainmanagementstudy, TechnicalReport3/2002,Canberra:CooperativeResearchCentreforFreshwaterEcology,UniversityofCanberra.
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Other references of interest Copeland,C.,SchooneveldtͲReid,E.andNeller,S.2003FishEverywhere:AnOralHistoryofFishandTheirHabitatsintheGwydirRiver.Ballina:NSWFisheries. Eden,S.,andBear,C.2012TheGood,theBadandtheHandsͲOn:ConstructsofPublicParticipation,AnglersandLayManagementofWaterEnvironments.Environmentand PlanningA,44(5):1200–1218. Goodall,H.2008RidingtheTide:IndigenousKnowledge,HistoryandWaterinaChangingAustralia,EnvironmentandHistory,14:355Ͳ84. Goodall,H.2002'TheRiverRunsBackwards.'inT.BonyhadyandT.Griffiths(eds.)WordsforCountry:Landscape&LanguageinAustralia,Sydney:UniversityofNewSouthWales Press. Osborne,M.A.2000AcclimatizingtheWorld:AHistoryoftheParadigmaticColonialScience,Osiris15:135Ͳ51. Roberts,A.andSchilling,K.2010AboriginalWomen'sFishinginNewSouthWales,Sydney:NSWDepartmentofClimateChangeandWater. Roberts,A.andSchilling,K.2010AboriginalWomen'sFishinginNewSouthWales:AThematicHistory,Sydney:NSWDepartmentofClimateChangeandWater. Roberts,A.andSchilling,K.2010AboriginalWomen'sFishinginNewSouthWales:AnAnnotatedBibliography,Sydney:NSWDepartmentofClimateChangeandWater. Roberts,J.,andSainty,G.1996ListeningtotheLachlan,Sydney:SaintyandAssociates. SchooneveltͲRied,E.2003FishEverywhere:ATechnicalReport,Ballina:NSWFisheries. Trueman,W.2007SomeRecollectionsofNativeFishintheMurrayͲDarlingSystem,Melbourne:NativeFishAustralian(Victoria). Some of the aquatic species found in the Murray-Darling Basin
Murraycod/Cod/Pondi Mulloway/Jewie/Jewelfish/Butterfish Macquarieperch/Macca/Blackbream
Goldenperch/Yellowbelly/Callop/Pilaki Catfish/Eeltailcatfish/Jewfish/Pomeri Yabby/Craybob scale) to Native
(Not Silverperch/Murraybream/Grunter/Tcheri Blackfish/Slippery/Slimy/Greasy Murraycray/Spinycray
European carp / Common carp Redfin / English perch Rainbow trout / Brown trout
scale) to
Introduced (Not