DLSU CONTENTS

southern living group publisher bea J. ledesma brand and community editor Dianne Pineda associate managing editor DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA creative director Niña Muallam graphic artist danica condez contributors writers 28 Pristine de leon, kat patiño-marquez, COVER STORY samantha ramos-zaragoza, beverly dalton, Clara Balaguer finds creative solutions to social september grace mahino, problems by bridging artists and local communities chinggay labrador, marbbie tagabucba, aj elicaño, sophiA avellana, illustrator alfred donoso OCTOBER 2014 stylists melvin mojica 04 08 hair and makeup edison ong health SPACE photographers sam lim, joseph pascual, Busting the health myths and An old revolutionary house survives in edric chen, jilson seckler tiu, superstitions we grew up with modern times gabby cantero, joseph pascual, geloy concepcion, everywhere we shoot copy editor 05 21 september grace mahino beauty feature PROOFREADER NAZRI NOOR Turn back time and revisit Philippine Citizens call for solutions to looming MRT editorial consultant cinema’s best faces crisis in Ria Francisco-Prieto board chairperson Alexandra Prieto-Romualdez finance advisor and treasurer 06 38 J. Ferdinand de Luzuriaga legal advisor FIXTURE FEATURE Atty. Rudyard Arbolado hr strategy head Local romance novels to make you smile Indelible stains on the country’s mementos Raymund Soberano vp and chief strategy officer (and cringe) of history Imelda Alcantara svp and group sales head, inquirer group of companies Cover photo by Joseph Pascual Felipe R. Olarte sales director Ma. Katrina Mae Garcia-Dalusong key accounts specialist EDITOR’S NOTE Angelita Tan-Ibañez account executives Abegail Ginaga, Andie Zuñiga, Trainspotting sarah cabalatungan, Ram Tan sales support assistants Rechelle Endozo, If there’s one thing that riding the workplaces, hospitals, schools, homes, Mara karen aliasas public trains in and and other important destinations. Here associate publisher Daphne See Irvine Welsh’s novel about hardcore we discuss everything that makes up our associate managing editor Pam Brooke Casin heroin addiction have in common, it’s country, the good, the bad, and the ugly. senior editorial/ PROJECT COORDINATOR the harrowing experience that leaves Despite the lack of government Reneè Espenilla editorial assistants Pristine de Leon, Pauline Miranda one feeling disgusted, exhausted, and support, there are still groups that choose account executives Shanna Maling, Hannah Ramos, Ina Mateo eventually stoned. But unlike the book’s to take action. Clara Balaguer, director graphic artists Aubrey Porciuncula, compelling black comedy, there’s nothing of the Office of Culture and Design, Roi De Castro, remotely funny about the daily plight of seeks out artists to bring art to neglected Tej Tan, Yayie Motos production manager commuters. People wait in endless cues communities around the country. Bahay Noel Cabie production assistant to squeeze themselves inside a cramped Nakpil-Bautista, a historical house in Maricel Gavino final art supervisor train with sweaty bodies. Safety is never an Manila where revolutionaries used to Dennis Cruz fa artist option. Train doors can randomly open convene, stands alive in the middle of jr larosa while in transit; derailing, robbery, and a bustling city. These are proof that it’s sexual offences are everyday occurences. possible to keep our Filipino integrity Safe and quality public transport is and identity, as long as we kick our essential to a country’s development. habit of indifference, do not relapse, and It gives an affordable, greater access to eventually clean ourselves up.

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southernliving 02 ALVEO HEALTH

superstition. Think of this as a signal to be extra cautious— growing pains when your immune system is down, after all, you can pick These health myths aren’t always true just up a fever, a cold, a cough, or a virus from virtually anyone because your lola said so you come into contact with. TEXT chinggay labrador illustration alfred donoso Myth: Hilot What it is: The ancients used this method to heal all You’ve probably heard them from an old aunt, yaya, or your ailments through massage and chiropractic manipulation. grandmother back in the province. Whether you subscribe It was also sometimes infused with herbal remedies brought to superstition or not, these folk tales need to be taken with by arbularyos. a heap of salt—as well as a modern science-based perspective Science says: A deep tissue massage can bring much in order to determine if they actually exist. needed relaxation to stressed muscles, and today’s modern patient is often seen at the spa for a similar treatment, or Myth: Paglilihi even at the chiropractor to help reset joints and receive What it is: Craving for certain types of food while pregnant spinal realignment. These local practices aim to restore directly relates to what your baby will look like. balance to the body through energetic healing that also Science says: While pregnancy cravings do exist, most goes beyond the physical. They offer a different approach probably due to the hormonal shifts in the body, an towards the same end goal that more scientific methods inexplicable taste for balut, for example, does not mean aim to reach. you’re going to end up with a kid with a full head of hair. Physical attributes are largely based on genetics after all. Myth: Pasma What it is: When the muscles are rife with “hot” energy, Myth: Usog it shouldn’t be brought down by anything too “cold” too What it is: Someone who carries the evil eye can curse a quickly. This causes undue tremors or spasms to the body. child with a simple greeting. To undo any hexes, the greeter Science says: Hot and cold energies are vague and not needs to say “puwera usog,” then lick his finger and rub it on easily taken to by the scientific community. Instead, they the baby’s abdomen or forehead. attribute the shakes that pasma is known for to possible Science says: There’s no scientific evidence to dispel this nerve conditions or dysfunctions in the body. SOUTHERNliving 04 BEAUTY

CLASSIC HITS The defining names and faces of Philippine entertainment’s Golden Age text Beverly Dalton illustration danica condez

Gloria Romero Fernando Poe, Jr. was the First Lady of Philippine At the peak of Gloria Romero’s career, Known as “Da King” and famed for show business. Her peak came in she was acknowledged as the queen of his action roles, FPJ started in the film the ’50s when she was featured in Philippine movies. She was introduced industry as a messenger boy. He got countless films, mostly produced by to the scene by her uncle, who worked his big break in the 1957 hit movie Lo Sampaguita Pictures. She may not as chief editor at Sampaguita Pictures. Waist Gang. One movie led to another, have garnered a lot of acting awards It didn’t take long for Romero’s beauty with Poe in roles that pictured him as unlike others, but to this day, she has and talent to put her on top, and she the champion of the poor, and his most retained her star status. Roces still was soon snagging award-winning roles iconic role is the notable character appears in teleseryes; Sana Bukas Pa in blockbuster movies such as 1955’s Flavio in the 1980 film Ang Panday. Ang Kahapon is her latest one, shown Dalagang Ilocana. Get the look: The late actor is known on ABS-CBN this year. The ’50s weren’t the end of her for his short curly hair and sideburns, a Get the look: Roces got her good genes golden years, though: Romero went look that was a distinct representation from her French-American mother on to become one of today’s most of the ’70s. Though they seem old- and her Filipino father of Spanish and respected actresses. fashioned, sideburns are slowly Chinese descent. Her beauty is simple, Get the look: Born to a Filipino father resurging through hipster culture. Men soft, and quiet—the kind that grows on and an American mother, her refined of today can sport them by letting you. She always looks poised, with every “mixed” beauty defined a decade. Her their facial hair grow for about four strand of hair in place. Her bouffant in deep-set eyes and wide lips were what weeks. Once the desired hair thickness the ’50s, although not as big as Imelda’s, people took notice of, and her standard is achieved, shave accordingly. If your was just as iconic, even reminiscent of makeup was clean, with impeccably face is long and skinny, go for long and Jackie O’s. To cop her look, start by shaped brows and red lips. The trick thick sideburns; if you have a rounder backcombing your hair. Lightly pull the to get this look is to keep the brows as face, shave them short and thin. teased sections back and use your fingers thick as possible but well groomed. For to style them in place. To create a neat the lips, opt for a matte red shade rather Susan Roces finish, apply a holding spray and lightly than a glossy one for that old world feel. Da King’s widow, actress Susan Roces, smoothen the top with your fingers. SOUTHERNliving 05 FIXTURE

POCKETFUL OF ROMANCE Love stories in paperback, Pinoy style text AJ ELICAÑO illustration ALFRED DONOSO

From shelves full of cheesy titles to online serialized which had previously carried similar American lines. novels and movie deals, it cannot be denied that Filipino From there, the genre diversified across different labels romance novels are a cultural force. Whether you love and publishing houses, creating the now-familiar brands them, hate them, or feel something in between, these My Special Valentine paperbacks and the wildly successful books are a tradition, one that has grown and evolved Precious Hearts Romances. with the country over the past few decades and persists Although derided as corny, these books form and to this day. inform a local tradition of romantic literature. Even the Books have numerous advantages over television, stereotypical plot—poor, good-hearted girl meets and chiefly in that you never need to plug them in. And falls in love with wealthy boy, leading to a drawn-out during the times when TV sets were far less common than but inevitable happy-ever-after—reflects our cultural they are today, romance novels rose to prominence as an myths and notions of love, colored by the very real socio- entertainment mode of choice, a status they still retain for economic realities that grip the nation. many . And yet, the genre continues to evolve. More recent The term “romance” refers not only to love stories but forays by authors like Tessa San Diego have explored to influences from the Romantic literary movement that innovations such as the trappings of fantasy literature, used honest emotions and imagination as escape, and along with discussions of issues like gender, environment, these are traditions to which local romance books remain and politics. Even more recently, free online publishing true. Familiar plots and characters take on ever-evolving platforms like Wattpad have opened Filipino romance subjects and concepts as more and more works are written; books up to the public, and if the success of She’s Dating we continue to get fresh takes on old stories, and these the Gangster is any indication, print and movie deals give the stories the power to both comfort and excite. aren’t outside the realm of possibility either. Anyone can The tradition began in the ’80s with the Valentine now tell these stories, and maybe even make it big for Romances series published by Books for Pleasure, Inc., doing so. SOUTHERNliving 06 MEGAWORLD SPACE

The architecture of Bahay Nakpil- Bautista was influenced by the Viennese Secession. As seen in the artistic lines of the ventanilla grills, rows of wooden walls, and stair railings.

this is Our house A tour of this historical home becomes a walk through our collective past text samantha ramos-zaragoza Photography Jilson seckler tiu

Traces attesting to Manila’s formidable position during the the home’s design. The house is a notable blend of the colonial colonial era are all we have left, as the streets of , Sta. Filipino house (bahay na bato) and the Viennese Secession, an Ana, and Quiapo, once the reflection of the country’s seat of architectural theme then unknown in the country, typical in power, have lost a lot of what the past has bestowed on them. this period where houses were decorated with flowers done in Yet on Ariston Bautista Street stands a nugget of history amid relief or in tracery, an influence. The Bautistas, urban decay: the Bahay Nakpil-Bautista, built in 1914, an after receiving a set of Viennese furniture from the Prietos, abode that’s more than just a preserved colonial house. took inspiration from its pronounced verticality, subtle curves, The 1900s saw a shift in Filipino society as the turn of the and minimalistic accents, and entrusted Arcadio Arellano, one century gave way to American imperialism, the Philippine- of the first and greatest Philippine architects, to communicate American War, and the country’s independence. Bahay this motif into their home. Arellano was behind the famous Nakpil-Bautista was at the center of this transformation. Its buildings Gota de Leche and Casino Español and was known owners, Dr. Ariston Bautista and his wife, painter Petrona to favor indigenous and original concepts. The end result of Nakpil, opened their doors to key figures in Philippine his work on the Nakpil-Bautista house was a likeness to the history, such as the widow of Andres Bonifacio and Lakambini 1920s and 1930s reductionism, or the elimination ng Katipunan Gregoria de Jesus and her second husband of surface decoration. Julio Nakpil, brother of Petrona, Katipunan Vice-Presiding As with many Filipino houses of the era, space was further Supremo, and composer of the noble hymn Marangal na ringed with space. Apart from the expansive rooms, the Dalit ng Katagalugan. Bautista himself was a propagandist doors that separate the dining rooms, antesala, and sala slide and friend of Jose , distributing Rizal’s prohibited novels and can be pushed to the sides to create vistas spreading despite the possibility of arrest. Indeed, the home’s progressive from street to estero. architecture (for its time) isn’t the only important aspect of the In 2011, the National Historical Commission of the heritage site; its residents were as accountable and significant (NHCP) declared the house a cultural property. as the brick and mortar for the roles they played in our history. In its mandate, NHCP became responsible for the home- The Bautistas’ progressive and liberal thinking are echoed in museum’s restoration, preservation, and conservation. SOUTHERNliving 08 SUNTRUST SIENA HILLS SPACE

However, it’s the privately owned Bahay Nakpil-Bautista home-museum and within Quiapo are old structures battling Foundation, Inc. that’s in charge of its upkeep. It is run deterioration, some used as warehouses or boarding houses. by the descendants of the original owners. The foundation Despite government agencies delegated to care for these dying has also helped disadvantaged individuals and families edifices, the effort has not been enough, and private groups in the name of the Bautistas’ and have to take the stand to help protect the Nakpils’ philanthropic spirit, such infrastructures. endorsing community activities that “Bahay Nakpil-Bautista Travel blogger and Heritage foster nationhood and help revitalize demonstrates how heritage Conservation Society president Ivan the city. In addition, the foundation Henares believes that simultaneously actively uses the house as a platform plots can have modern labeling heritage zones as tourism for showcasing Philippine arts. purposes that benefit the enterprise zones will increase today, the house serves as a museum motivation for tourism businesses and event venue, hosting a sculpture public. It is an ideal that in the area. City of Manila tourism shop on the ground floor and a small several privately owned consultant and Viva Manila founder Filipiniana library. Certain rooms can be uses his walking tours rented out for seminars and workshops. foundations, intent on and activities to raise awareness, This year, the house celebrates its reviving Manila’s historical promote local businesses, and centenary with a permanent exhibit appeal, share.” encourage creative use of public entitled “Bahay Nakpil-Bautista: Tahanan spaces in the city’s historic locations. ng mga Katipunero (1914-2014).” Projects spearheaded by the Bahay Bahay Nakpil-Bautista demonstrates Nakpil-Bautista Foundation and how heritage plots can have modern purposes that benefit the other like-minded groups prove that heritage preservation public. It is an ideal that several privately owned foundations, isn’t merely about letting old structures endure but also intent on reviving Manila’s historical appeal, share. A view invigorating commerce and instilling pride and nationalism. from any of the Bahay Nakpil-Bautista’s windows is testament It’s not just the government’s business to care for our to the neglect Manila has faced: just a few blocks from the vanishing legacy; it is every Filipino’s duty.

Old but still intact, Bahay Nakpil-Bautista is maintained by descendants of its original owner (right). The house also serves as a museum which displays memorabilia (extreme right).

SOUTHERNliving 10 SUNTRUST HORIZONTAL OMNIBUS SOUTHERNER

Loida Nicolas- Lewis is a native of Sorsogon, Bicol. She is a motivational speaker, social civic leader, lawyer, and philantropist (right). A photo of the Lewis family at a courtesy call with United States President Barack Obama (below).

Heart song Loida Nicolas-Lewis on the importance of looking back and hewing the values of home text marbbie tagabucba photography SAM LIM

The American dream is a reality for incursion to Philippine territory in Loida Nicolas-Lewis who, together 2012, Nicolas-Lewis’ dedication to civic with her late husband Reginald, built a duty springs from gratefulness. This multi-million dollar enterprise using the love of country was intensified when Filipino way of resourcefulness. she first beheld Noli Me Tangere: The “What honoring your heritage gives Opera, a rendition of national hero Jose you is a strong foundation for your Rizal’s magnum opus, in Chicago. As success, because [that success] is rooted the orphaned Basilio held his mother in a deeper understanding of who you Sisa, driven mad by oppression and loss, are, of your own self worth,” she explains Nicolas-Lewis was moved to tears. in her home. The walls are herself a pianist, she knows there is a decorated with family photos alongside depth of feeling even from a time long works of national artists Fernando gone that only music can convey. “The Amorsolo and Ben Cabrera, yet it is opera may be a medium by Europeans those of fellow Sorsogonon national like Giacomo Puccini and Giuseppe artist nominee Jose “Pitok” Blanco Verdi, but isn’t the Filipino culture a and his son Glenn, depicting rural motley of Western and Eastern cultures?” life, that hang in her living and dining Last month at the Newport rooms. On the latter’s painting of the Performing Arts Theater in Manila, fishermen of Sorsogon Bay, a portrait Nicolas-Lewis brought the opera of her father, entrepreneur Francisco home, 27 years since it was staged in Nicolas, the man who pushed her to its motherland, with music and libretto become a lawyer, is superimposed. arranged and written by national artists From opening The Lewis College Felipe de Leon and Guillermo Tolentino in 2000 in her hometown to leading and interpreted by world-class Filipino protests against the alleged Chinese talents in the language of our hearts. SOUTHERNliving 12 Nicolas-Lewis is known as the wife of Reginald Lewis, an entrepreneur cited by Forbes magazine as one of the wealthiest businessmen before his death in 1993. She made a name for herself by being the first Asian woman to pass the bar exam in the United States without having studied there. CRAFT easy navigation Bahay Nakpil-BautistaWrap demonstrates the whole how world heritage around plots yourcan have home modern purposes that benefit the public. It is an idealwith that maps several that privately make owned colorful foundations, furnishings intent on reviving Manila’s historical appeal, share. Text Kat Patiño-Marquez Photography and styling Sam Lim

Philippine map photo frame Directions: 1. Using the tape measure, measure the outer What you’ll need: sides and width of each side of the frame. Picture frame 2. With a pencil, mark on the map the Philippine map, size must be length and width of each side (making a larger than the frame rectangular shape). Scissors 3. Using a protractor, mark off 45° from Glue both end of each rectangle (creating a Paint brush trapezoid shape). Tape measure (for sewing) 4. Cut out all the trapezoid-shaped map Protractor pieces. Using the brush, apply a thin Pencil layer of glue on each side of the frame and carefully stick the map pieces. NOTE: If the map is made with thin 5. Leave to dry. paper, apply minimal glue to prevent wrinkling.

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SAN MIGUEL

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PLEASANTVILLE

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Blessed be this town where time seems to have stood still text Samantha Ramos-Zaragoza photography JILSON SECKLER TIU

For a country that was under Spanish rule for 333 years, early 19th century to its present site in Santa Clara. Although scant physical evidence of that time remains in the bustling Pila’s pre-colonial influence, marked by commanding datus . These structures have been reduced to backdrops, extending their kingdoms into neighboring settlements, upstaged by their contemporary counterparts in a reflection has developed into the small town that it is today, it has of a society prioritizing modernization over preservation. well-earned its moniker Bayang Pinagpala, or Blessed Town. In the outskirts of the concrete jungle, however, Spared from World War II bombings and calamities, it is are scenes in perpetual pause. These are not just aged one of the few locations designed by 16th century town monuments or cathedrals offering a glimpse of the past, planners in existence. but entire towns living in a colonial micro-culture. Such is to this day, the town’s layout follows that of typical the charm of Pila, . Spanish models wherein a plaza, positioned in the middle, Pila is one of the country’s oldest settlements and biggest is surrounded by the church, the municipal hall, major barangays in South and has had an established establishments, and prominent residential homes with community even before A.D. 1000. verandas open to the square. The Archeologists recovered artifacts that architecture of the era, known as the date back to the late Tang Dynasty (A.D. A 7-11, a bakery, or bahay na bato or the colonial Filipino 900) and uncovered the Philippines’ even an Internet shop is house, along with American chalet oldest crematorium, both in Pila’s designs, line the streets of General Pinagbayanan. The earliest Philippine retained within a colonial Luna, M.H. del Pilar, Mabini, document, the Laguna Copperplate edifice—reminders of how and Bonifacio. These dwellings in Inscription (A.D. 900), also mentioned pastel and cream hues are owned the ruler Jayadewa and his domain innovations are treated as by illustrious names such as Agra, Pailah, the ancient name of Pila. A crutches for life enrichment Rivera, Relova, and Alava; private calamity that struck in 1375 forced tours may be secured by contacting the barangay to transfer to Pagalangan, without their overtaking the owners. known as “The Place of Reverence.” legacies and customs. Some homeowners, accustomed It was in 1571 when Spanish to seeing tourists, will open their conquistadors discovered Pila; they homes for a tour as you come by. later subjugated it to Don Hernando Ramirez in 1575. Cora Relova of the Pila Historical Society Foundation has The Franciscans built the San Antonio de Padua Church even offered her ancestral home as a bed and breakfast, in 1578, the first Antonine church in the Philippines. The complete with a town tour service. The San Antonio de Franciscans also established in 1611 the second printing Padua Church, Liceo de Pila, Municipal Hall of Pila, and press in the country, which printed the oldest dictionary, Pila Museum are also must-sees. The Pila Museum features Vocabulario de Lengua Tagala. original archeological ceramics, pottery, and other finds even before the arrival of the Spanish colonizers, Pila was exhibiting civilized culture before the dawn of Spanish notable for its spiritual character. The townsfolk’s nobleness colonialism. The “Prince of Filipino Printers” Tomas and gentleness won over the Spaniards that honored Pila Pinpin and Domingo Loag’s authentic Vocabulario de with the title La Noble Villa de Pila, one of five villas in the Lengua Tagala is also housed here. Visit in April to witness Philippines named in the 16th and 17th century. the Pailah Festival, a celebration of fruitful harvest despite Constant flooding forced Pila to move once again in the past mishaps the town has encountered.

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Pila is among the four towns in the Philippines declared a National Historical Landmark after Vigan, Silay City, and Taal (right). The town follows the design of old structures, including stores at the Pila Plaza (below).

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HAMILO COAST

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The San Antonio de Padua Parish Church is currently situated in Sta. Clara after being transferred in 1800 (right). One of the 28 well preserved heritage houses in Pila (extreme right). OFF

traces of modern development are intertwined with the is the efforts of the Pila Historical Society Foundation, classic structures distinctive in national heritage sites. A Inc. (PHSFI) that deserves the accolade. PHSFI, 7-11, a bakery, or even an Internet shop is retained within a founded by concerned citizens in 1993, has faithfully colonial edifice—reminders of how innovations are treated carried the obligation of preserving Pila’s “historical, as crutches for life enrichment without their overtaking cultural, environmental, and heritage landmarks.” One legacies and customs. After touring the town and taking in of its initiators is Cora Relova, the direct descendant of its timeworn architecture, dine at Pita Restaurant or Pila Don Felizardo Rivera, the town’s chief architect who Delights, stay in the nearby garden resorts, and discover was responsible for the town moving to its present site. other neighboring towns with their own attractions such as Among the activities PHSFI undertook were demolishing Pagsanjan, Calauan, Sta. Cruz, Caliraya, and Los Baños. and relocating structures, establishing the Pila Museum, With Pila’s opulent history, it comes as a surprise that constructing the plaza pathway and Pila arch, installing it wasn’t until the year 2000 when the National Historical lights and benches at the park, and rehabilitating the Commission of the Philippines (NHCP), then known as plaza’s old water fountain. The foundation’s research the National Historical Institute, declared Pila as a National and documentation of Pila’s culture and history was a Historical Landmark. It is the fourth town in the country major catapult in securing NHCP’s National Historical to be recognized as such, joining the likes of Vigan in Ilocos Landmark declaration. Sur, Taal in , and Silay in Negros Occidental. The PHSFI shares that its cause wasn’t met with much gist of NHI Resolution No. 2, S. 2000 (Declaring the Town enthusiasm in the beginning, but despite experiencing of Pila in Laguna as a National Historical Landmark) states setbacks, the goals have been met and even furthered with Pila as “one of the country’s more important archaeological the NHCP declaration. The foundation does not rest on sites…honored with the name La Noble Villa de Pila by the its laurels, however, as it has also been named and remains Spaniards because of the genteel customs, refined manners, active as the town’s custodian. and traditions of the people…one of the few existing towns The quiet town of Pila exemplifies that antiquity does not in the Philippines that preserves the Spanish colonial town have to remain in the past, and that it can serve as a breather planning system of the Indies…the structures of Pila reflect for people living in a fast-paced world. While Spanish a rich and varied architectural history.” colonization gave us bittersweet memories, it’s part of our NHCP, in its mandate, is responsible for the town’s history nonetheless, and Pila is testament to the Filipino restoration, preservation, and conservation. However, it culture and traditions that have endured through history.

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OFF

THE RAIL

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The MRT-3 problem is a figurative and literal train wreck text Samantha Ramos-Zaragoza photography JILSON SECKLER TIU

A small crowd rushed to the railings of the Makati- stating that [corrupted funds] could have been used to fix Magallanes Overpass to witness the brewing chaos below, a the train, when in fact, parts of the MRT budget [were] scene that turned curiosity into anxiety: an MRT-3 train had absorbed into the anomalous DAP. Rampant privatization derailed and gone past its barrier at the Station catering to big business allies coupled with corruption is a bad in Pasay City. combination for social services like public transportation.” No amount of security and order that the Pasay City Senator Aquino, in the Rappler.com article, agreed, stating Police tried to provide in the hopes of managing panic that MRT-3 is not a good example of a decent PPP. could stop passengers and onlookers from spreading the A civil servant asking MRT takers to look for other news online. Twitter was abuzz with photos and frightening transportation options and some using the MRT Rush accounts, netizens calling the accident the worst in MRT Hour Challenge as if for penance (and as a publicity stunt) history. As the news developed, the fear of using the MRT-3 for what people go through emphasize the government’s soon turned into anger over a situation that could have been lack of empathy for its citizens, whose officials do not avoided. It was the cherry on top of the amassing MRT-3 take public transportation themselves. MRT user Nicole concerns commuters have long been Ignacio says, “I think there’s no harm trying to make the government notice. if government officials take the train What happened wasn’t even a freak The government seemed once in a while. There’s no better accident. The government seemed to way to understand the urgency of have ignored its years of neglect of the to have ignored its years the situation unless you experience public transportation systems despite of neglect of the public it firsthand. If they think that trying warning signs piling on top of each transportation systems it out once is punishment, well, isn’t other, and the pointing of fingers and that already an admission that the band-aid solutions that ensued have despite warning signs piling train system is indeed in bad shape?” further irked the masses. The president on top of each other, and The government further created blames the previous administration, this atmosphere of elitism when DOTC faults the Metro Rail Transit the pointing of fingers and the MRT Facebook page restricted Corporation (MRTC), and so on. band-aid solutions that comments on their timeline, banning In an article from Rappler.com ensued have further irked writer and MRT commuter Angelo (“Senator to transport execs: Show Suarez. His irate letter to train concern for MRT commuters”), the masses. authorities went viral when his Senator Benigno Aquino IV was comments were deleted and banned surprised that the MRT-3 reached a on Facebook. “I have never received point where “four ‘service interruptions’ monthly; non- any official response—be it in the form of an apology or an functioning elevators, escalators, and ticket dispensers; and explanation—from the authorities responsible for the MRT,” an ‘obsolete’ signaling system” trouble passengers daily. he says. Suarez has been using the MRT-3 for a decade and KARATULA (Kabataang Artista Para sa Tunay na Kalayaan) is no stranger to taking trains around the metro since his Chairperson Michael Beltran further explained, “Since the childhood. “It hadn’t always been a horrible experience. onset, the Aquino administration [has] made clear that Only in recent years has riding the MRT become so daunting social services were not a priority. In fact, privatization under and dangerous. You’d squeeze yourself into a packed coach the PPP [public-private partnership project] was a priority, feeling and smelling fresh, then come out forlorn, hopefully which effectively displaced the rights and access of people with your wallet or cellphone still intact. The line to the to public services. There is a barrage of justifications for ticket booth loops by the metrical dozens. When you already the faultiness of the MRT, even going so far as Malacañang have a ticket, you will have to endure another line that’s SOUTHERNliving 22 FEATURE

quadruple the length of the [ticket] line. Sometimes the danger of a possible stampede looms large every time there’s platforms are so full that authorities on premises instruct the such a crowd.” In any case, 10 years is too long a time to guards not to let anybody through the turnstiles until the overlook such problems. situation on the platforms eases. Since the trains that come But there may be light at the end of MRT-3’s railway. along are just as packed as the platforms, God knows when In an article (“New MRT trains arriving in Sept. 2015”) you’ll be able to make it inside the train.” published in Philippine Daily Inquirer, DOTC Secretary MRT-3 has a designed capacity of 350,000 passengers Jun Abaya said they target projects, such as the arrival of 48 per day, but it has been operating at overcapacity—almost coaches from China, rail and traction motor replacements, double—since 2004. Philippine Daily Inquirer articles and train overhauling, to be completed by 2016. (“DOTC ignored 3 MRT proposals to buy more trains” and Citizens speculate that more can be done, though. “DOTC at fault for MRT-3 breakdowns”) state that DOTC Marketing professional and MRT user Katrina Atienza may have overlooked MRT proposals from 2004, 2008, proposes, “Start building rail lines that extend out of the and 2010 to acquire more trains. DOTC Undersecretary greater Manila area to decongest the city and make it easier Jose Lotilla, though, rebutted that it is the MRTC that and cheaper for people to move in and out the city. Look at supposedly defaulted on buying more trains when the Japan; that’s how they were able to decongest Tokyo. Or take capacity was exceeded. an example from Colombia, which was able to implement The problems do not end at the Aug. 13 tragedy. Last an ingenious solution like the Bus Rapid System, which was Sept. 2, the MRT-3 operated with its doors open, risking faster to implement than building a rail system. There are its passengers’ safety. Currently, escalators and elevators actually a lot of studies that give better recommendations; remain inoperative for the elderly, people with disabilities, [they] just need to be adopted.” and pregnant women. Suarez adds, “There is the very real The increasingly cynical public views and the claims danger of falling on the tracks or getting caught by the side public officials have made are not only long overdue but of the approaching train, all out of sheer number of people. also possibly empty statements. Beltran encourages the This, I suppose, is what prompts on-premise authorities to public to get organized to urge to government to follow often halt letting people through the turnstiles for indefinite through. “There are already networks of concerned citizens durations, but sometimes their methods for keeping people such as the Train Riders Network (TREN) and Riles Laan safe have been just as unsafe and, frankly, plain inhumane. sa Sambayanan (RILES Network). What is important is to TheT aft station, for instance, uses ropes to keep commuters convey a united message demanding accountability from the in check like cattle, their numbers accumulating on the administration and for the safety of the people. [We] must staircase where anybody might fall or pass out. Even the link arms to demand social justice.” southernliving 23 FEATURE

One of Susan Calo-Medina’s most dangerous episodes involved being caught with her crew in the middle of warfare in Basilan.

Conquering Distance Susan Calo-Medina pioneered the first local travel show 26 years ago—and she continues to put the spotlight on many of the Philippines’ undiscovered places text SOPHIA AVELLANA photography EDRIC CHEN OF AT EAST JED ROOT

She’s been to the northernmost island on the Philippine map Philippines, she admits that the show has done a lot to open the and has set foot on the farthest edge south of this archipelago eyes of the Filipinos to the beauty of the Philippines and to the in Sitangkay, where the locals listen to Borneo radio stations many opportunities for travel—for vacation, immersion, fun, and trade in Malaysian ringgit. She has featured many local adventure, culture, and gastronomy. destinations that neither her fellowmen had heard of nor seen She observes that nowadays, local travelers have become until her travel show captured it for television. Bitten by the more adventurous, and domestic travel has become a habit for travel bug since 1986, she is Susan Calo-Medina, Travel Time’s the younger generation. With the many budget airline fares and long-time TV host and producer, and the Philippines’ “Queen increasing options for accommodations in every province, local of Travel.” travel has become more accessible and affordable for everyone. After her stint as the Marketing Director of the Cultural She reveals that the best thing about traveling in your country Center of the Philippines in 1986, Medina wanted to host a is that you discover a lot of new things within your own home. talk show on TV, but was advised against it by a friend since talk “Everybody is an instant connection,” she points out. Despite shows were rare at the time. “[But] there was no show devoted the different dialects, there is no language barrier. to travel in the 1980s,” she says. Hence, Travel Time was born. “I think we should be the biggest supporters of our country,” For about a year, the show featured destinations just a few she says. “If the Filipinos are attracted to and know what their minutes’ drive from the metro. People watched the show but she country has to offer, they can talk about it and be tourism wasn’t satisfied, so she took her production team to provinces marketers on their own. They can go on the Internet where around the country. “That’s when the show really took off,” she somebody will pick it up and it will spread.” proudly recalls. Throughout her travels here and abroad, each destination she As the pioneer in local travel shows, Medina brought has been to has left an impression on her. “Every time you go to attention to provinces that were once ignored by local travelers, a new place, you open your eyes to something new,” she says. such as Bohol, Tawi-Tawi, and . “I was the first person But she’s not ready to stow her luggage just yet. The only who showed them [what these places looked like].” thing stopping her from going on trips is the weather. “I enjoy But more than showcasing how much fun it truly is in the traveling because there’s always something new,” she shares. SOUTHERNliving 24 AVIDA PRIME TAFT FEATURE

“If the Filipinos are attracted to and know what their country has to offer, they can talk about it and be tourism marketers on their own.”

SOUTHERNliving 26 MANILA HEARING AID COVER STORY

SOCIAL DISCOURSE

SOUTHERNliving 28 COVER STORY

southernliving 29 COVER STORY

The uphill yet ultimately fulfilling battle of (cultural) social practice in the Philippines, according to Clara Balaguer text September Grace Mahino photography JOSEPH PASCUAL

The expected process is this: start out as an idealistic, gung- going through a tough time,” explains Balaguer. “Start Here ho young’un, then be smoothened down by cynicism into came from our own learning process of making mistakes an older, slightly walled-off version of yourself, hopefully by wanting to give without thinking, of overstepping wiser with experience. boundaries and miscalculating situations, as well as being In Clara Balaguer’s case, it isn’t so much a total reversal at a loss on how to give properly. Wanting to help isn’t of the process as it is a continuous reverting, spiralling, and always equal to actually helping.” Based on experiences bucking of it. As founder and creative director of the Office working with Oxfam through its Humanitarian Response of Culture and Design (OCD), a platform for creatives Consortium and on films with NGOs such as “A Single to connect with cultural communities and find practical Drop for Safe Water (ASD),” OCD has realized that well- solutions to pressing problems by using culture and design, done humanitarian work involves as much restraint as the 34-year-old has been doing work that could daunt the good will for it to be effective and sustainable; Start Here most bleeding-heart of progressive is a continuous exploration of this thinkers. OCD is involved in a lot of necessary balance. hands-on work with projects that require “It was amazing to realize OCD’s particular perspective the small team to immerse themselves in that what we’re doing— has caught crucial international far-flung local communities from north attention and funding. One of its (the Badjaos and Aytas in ) trying to add another layer most encouraging successes is the to south (young artists and activists in of purpose to design and popularity of their Tribal Cookbook Zamboanga), and their project goals cultural work—isn’t just at the recent New York Art Book are varied, the results generally neither Fair. A compilation of traditional immediately apparent nor quantifiable: something different from Ayta recipes gathered through a documenting and preserving cultural most of what’s out there; it’s previous effort in documenting heritage, publishing books produced the rapidly disappearing Ayta in collaboration with artists, writers, something people want to see heritage—cuisine seems to be the photographers, and designers and or apply to their practice.” remaining vital link in the culture’s showcasing them at international book collective memory—the 100 copies fairs, organizing livelihood means that that OCD brought to the fair are not exploitative of a community’s were sold out within 12 hours, artistic and material resources, raising funds for aid and with people clamoring for more. Balaguer, who had lost relief in times of disaster, and more. her voice by day two from answering questions, marvels at Very much a grassroots movement, OCD’s methods the experience. “It was amazing to realize that what we’re can be found radical by some. Their Start Here project, a doing—trying to add another layer of purpose to design small fundraising and information exchange effort aimed and cultural work—isn’t just something different from most to help organize the donation frenzy that ensues whenever of what’s out there; it’s something people want to see or disaster strikes, has OCD asking people on the ground apply to their practice. The attention we got was humbling, to make handwritten lists and sketches of things they encouraging, flattering, overwhelming. It made my hair truly need. “Aside from being the first thing they could stand on end the whole time.” send, penmanship reminds the receiver there’s a real, live That marvel is a long way from her days of frustration person behind the list who exists outside of ‘Peysbuk’ or a and disillusionment as member of the Design for the World statistical list prepared by a government entity—someone board of directors, and as a marketing and advertising SOUTHERNliving 30 BELLEVUE COVER STORY

Clara Balaguer works with small, local printers and small presses to help improve their skills and support them. Her workspace contains books collected from different countries.

practitioner. “But that was as much due to my own peer support have not been ideal. 20-something arrogance as it was bourgeois defeatism,” she All that’s changing though, largely due to the support of concedes. OCD is now a platform for her to balance ideals diasporic and foreign interventions. Like it or not, that’s the with reality—not so much as an anachronistic response to an truth. The fact that we started going to the New York Art ineffective system in place but rather a means to explore and Book Fair, lecturing at places like RISD and MIT, and doing develop new formulas to give attention to social problems. events with people like Philip Glass and Tyondai Braxton Armed with hard-earned lessons on what it truly means to at places like Printed Matter have changed the game for us. help and with the vigor and open-mindedness of a forever- Also, trust from local artists such as Wawi Navarroza was young idealism, Balaguer bucks the expectation. OCD does instrumental, but Wawi was the exception rather than the the same. rule. Her willingness to explore our approach and, most importantly, to enter into a two-way collaboration (for the Cooperation between artists and communities is vital photobook Hunt & Gather, Terraria)—a must for working to your projects. What kind of resistance has OCD with OCD—was the start of our own openness, of letting go encountered? of frustrations and fears with the excluding local mindset. It has been around accepting the fact that what we do has cultural or aesthetic value, that our projects have credibility, Speaking of Navarroza, how do you determine which are thought out, and command attention through a discourse. people and goals you’d like OCD to align with? But that’s [something we] sometimes begrudgingly, sometimes An important lesson we’ve learned is distinguishing people excitedly set aside after five years of obstinacy, learning from with our tribal markings. For a fully collaborative method mistakes, and not letting failure get in the way of self-worth. like ours, the task of “matchmaking” between partners, In the Philippines, longevity is key to gaining respect. If you communities, and our own team is vital to everyone’s health can survive for an X amount of time—and your learning and a project’s longevity. curve keeps expanding—most people will eventually stop We’ve learned to be honest in our style of communication, questioning your right to be a player in whatever field. to reflect the particular struggles we face with every project, and to be critical of ourselves first of all. Straddling the Where did the resistance come from: the local communities fine line between mopey hand-wringing and honest self- or third parties? awareness is also important and hard to achieve. The right Local communities have always been welcoming and collaborators are those who share our fears and want to enthusiastic about our projects. Resistance was from other avoid the same mistakes. Being too “happy,” an advertising members of the cultural sphere and of funders who didn’t take world crutch that I used to lean on, breeds mistrust and us seriously. I’m not sure either group takes us seriously now, misunderstanding, especially when tackling the matter at but the important thing is we’ve found ways to keep our doors hand—human relations and social issues—depends on open and projects running even though local institutional and trust between actors involved in any tactical operation or SOUTHERNliving 32 Balaguer proofreads COVER STORY every single book project by the OCD in her family’s home in the south. The day after the shoot, she left for New York to bring seven locally-produced books to the New York Art Book Fair.

southernliving 33 SUNTRUST SPREAD ADVERT SUNTRUST SPREAD ADVERT COVER STORY

Some of OCD’s published works (left) and Balaguer’s collection of potted plants (right).

multiple-incursion experiment. donate to by asking them what they need instead of just giving There are other factors we look for: the ability to express whatever first comes to mind. The survivors and the workers enthusiasm and gratitude, conscientiously written emails in the field know best what’s needed. Asking also gives people with complete (but concise) information, a tender spot for a sense of control over their situation, which is much needed vernacular culture (i.e., the love of baduy), a willingness to when rebuilding in the aftermath of an uncontrollable disaster. exchange ideas, the ability to offer and take constructive criticism, and the capacity to improvise and deal with Effecting social change is hard to measure quantitatively, changes—absolutely crucial for working in the Philippines. and takes time to become apparent. How do you reassure That being said, all these come into play only if we dig the yourself and everyone working at OCD that all these work or discourse of the person. The compatibility between projects are producing worthwhile results? the work itself is of course a top priority. We didn’t know much in the beginning about gathering For communities, the “matchmaking” process is simpler: baseline data and being able to quantify results in that way, we look for places with a strong leader who has pre-organized and contributions to someone’s personal or professional a structure in any shape or form and shows initiative to deliver development are often seen over the course of years. information requests immediately. Gathering data is a new thing for us; there’s usually so few people working in the field on any given project that it was How do you approach particular local cultures to avoid all we—often just I—could do to produce it. I’ve just recently the dangers of exoticism? gotten the right team of people together to help me roll out We respect the culture. We’re sensible in what we do. We new data-gathering strategies. Being able to quantify the work think of a culture as a whole, not just parts of it, and we in documented terms makes it easier to prove the validity of put attention on the problems. It’s also research in a way, our experiments. as we document our experiences. We want to balance the Apart from that, we get these really amazing moments once relationship of importance between art and the social work. in a while just when we’re about to give up on everything, Design for us is a practical tool. because doing this is not easy. Seeing the expression of fierce pride on a sign painter’s face when he sees his work printed Your Start Here fundraising project is about empowering in a book, getting hang-in-there-your-work-means-a-lot-to- local communities despite being struck by calamities and me emails from collaborators, or excited texts from my Ayta needing aid. How does OCD observe the fine balance buddies telling me about the progress they’re making with between helping, enabling, and overstepping boundaries? their projects … the response and encouragement from others It’s a grassroots process. For fundraising, we “consult” with are often what keeps me going in dark times, when it feels like communities that need assistance or with NGOs we want to I’ve bitten off more than I can chew. SOUTHERNliving 36 SUNTRUST GOV HILLS GENTRI HEIGHTS FEATURE

The controversial DMCI Homes’ is being protested by the public for obstructing the iconic sightline of the . The issue is still under debate as the said obstruction depends on different vantage points.

WRITINGS ON THE WALL A look at historic remembrances of the past reveals a devastating peek into our future text Dianne Pineda photography GELOY CONCEPCION

In 2010, when news of Rizal’s monument in Spain being left weathered by disasters both by nature and human defaced by vandals reached the Philippine Embassy, doing are in dire need of not only cleaning, but also strict authorities didn’t waste time in calling the attention of implementation of measures for protection. the Spanish government to request immediate action. Dr. The need to protect these structures is more than Jose Rizal’s statue, located in the Avenida de Las Filipinas obvious. They serve as landmarks that make a place in Madrid, was made by Florante Caedo as tribute to the distinct and easily recognizable, but more importantly, national hero who defied Spanish colonization in the they symbolize people we consider our heroes, national Philippines. It marked the centennial of the Philippine milestones and events that helped shape our country. independence from Spain. The words “Mason de mierda,” The National Historical Commission of the Philippines which roughly means “Mason of crap” were written at the (NHCP) guidelines state that, “Memorials are dedicated base of the statue with red paint. Speculations say that it to great Filipinos who gave and sacrificed their lives for was a crass jab at Masonic organizations, some of which their country and countrymen. Therefore, monuments and Rizal was a member of. The Spanish agency responsible memorials must be treated as sacred or hallowed objects for the statue’s maintenance had it cleaned straight after and accorded with the same full reverence as we have for the request. the Philippine flag.” It’s a natural knee-jerk reaction. Any form of disrespect to But more than physical representations of our past, our country and its symbolisms is considered unacceptable. these structures point to our need for symbolisms as What makes this scenario highly contradictory, however, human beings. Iconography in religion, forms and images is that back home, several monuments around Manila are in art, language, and even music are our own ways of left trashed and vandalized while authorities and citizens giving meaning to the world. We are symbol-oriented, as turn a blind eye. The statue of General Douglas MacArthur German professor and philosopher Ernst Cassirer explains: located along MacArthur Bridge, the Raja Sulayman Park, we understand reality through symbolic referents. But and Andres , once reminders of our what happens when these referents are desecrated? Would history, now stand defaced and neglected. Used plastic it also mean that we also have a desecrated world view? bags and food containers can be found at the base of the heritage Conservation Society trustee and architect statues. Expletives or what seemed like declarations of Manuel Noche says, “History without physical evidence love are spray-painted around the pedestals. Dirt, grime, of it is not history at all. How can you talk about the past and peeled-off paint surround every corner. Worse, parts when you don’t see it? These are structures that transcend of these monuments are missing or stolen. The structures time. And yet sadly, we don’t see the value of these things.”

SOUTHERNliving 38 FEATURE

Pasted posters, campaign paraphernalia, and disparate writings are found on the base of Douglas McArthur’s monument (left) and the Andres Bonifacio monument (below, left). The Rajah Sulayman monument also has random statements written on its base (below).

southernliving 39 FEATURE

“The need to protect these structures is more than obvious. They serve as landmarks that make a place distinct and easily recognizable, but more importantly, they symbolize people we consider our heroes, national milestones and events that helped shape our country.”

SOUTHERNliving 40 FEATURE

SOUTHERNliving 41 STYLE

playing house The home becomes a place to find liberation in being oneself, to tune out the world, and to blend in the background photography EVERYWHERE WE SHOOT STYLING MELVIN MOJICA CLOTHES CARL JAN CRUZ

southernSOUTHERNliving 42 STYLE

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southernliving 43 STYLE

SOUTHERNliving 44 STYLE HAI R AND M akeu p EDISON ONG . M odels t o la o r end a in fr m pmap a nd carl o l ee fr m e rcat o r.

southernliving 45 STYLE

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southernliving 47 MARKET

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SOUTHERNliving 48 EATS

CDP serves two kinds of complimentary bread: sour dough and baguette. The starter dough used for all the breads is at least four years old.

Melting pot A culinary trio introduces a global plate of flavors Text Denise Danielle Alcantara Photography sam lim

Travel involves not only sightseeing but also a chance for a be served in small plates, but the serving sizes are exactly culinary adventure that will introduce you to a mouthful the same as Mamou’s. Scanning through the menu, you’ll of a region’s culture. Well-traveled food visionaries Malou find yourself faced with some familiar dishes. While the Flores (of Mamou and Recovery Food), Katrina Kuhn- selection seems very simple, the dishes are created with Alcantara (of Mesclun and Chuck’s Deli), and Kristine finesse and great technique, the food comparable to that del Gallego-Locsin (formerly of Lu) have come together of a fine dining restaurant but with a lower price. CDP to bring us CDP or Chef du Partie, one of the newest also attempts to infuse Filipino flavors in some of its culinary ventures at the . The trio’s love dishes. An example is their Steak Frites Poutine, which for food has brought them together to introduce to Manila consists of a USDA rib-eye, fries, gravy, blue cheese, and the concept of serving small plates of global flavors, as our very own kesong puti. inspired by a New York-based French bistro. Walk into Aside from the food, CDP also has an extensive menu of their very modern take on the bistro with its amalgam cocktails and wines. What sets the CDP cocktail list apart of traditional and industrial design elements: an ornate are their bubbly-based concoctions made with Crémant (a wooden ceiling, concrete walls with chalk illustrations, and sparkling wine similar to Champagne but not made in the big windowpanes that make the restaurant’s limited space Champagne region) instead of the common hard liquor base. seem more sizeable. In CDP, waiters are well-trained and well-acquainted “The setting looks like a French bistro, but we don’t with the food and drinks they offer. They’ve undergone want to serve just French food; [the cuisine] is global. rigorous training with Anne Berges, a French national You have something from Germany like the Pork Trotter, and CDP’s food and beverage manager, whose vision is to from New England like the Clam Chowder, and from elevate the quality of service in casual dining in Manila to Spain like the Pig’s Ears,” explains Flores. The dishes may meet international standards. southernliving 49 EATS

Duck Olio (above) has the right balance of garlic and spice with the distinct flavor from the duck floss. CDP’s cheese trolley (above, right) is the perfect pair to wine and cocktails. Enjoy a drink or two by the bar and see the bartenders work on their concoctions (right).

CDP Global Table. 148B Level R1 Power Plant Mall, Lopez Drive, Rockwell Center, Makati City. 556-4454. www.facebook.com/CDPGlobalTable. [email protected].

SOUTHERNliving 50 1/2 SHARP 1/2 DLSU EATS

Walls are painted in different shades of purple, and framed photographs of the Ongpauco family fill the walls of Bistro Pamana.

A family affair Food and its enjoyment count as heirlooms in this family business Text Denise Danielle Alcantara Photography sam lim

Memories of the aroma of butter and garlic being sautéed in Kitchen, can lead to another one with its addictive layers a pan, the sizzling sound of fish being fried, and the warmth of flavors and textures, from the squid’s black ink tothe that the act of cooking itself brings to the household bring crispiness of the all-time favorite calamares. us comfort wherever we are and whatever age we may be. The plethora of main dishes to choose from can be The kitchen will always be the heart of a home, and food overwhelming as basically everything looks good, but if is the one factor that keeps families together even when the you want to taste their original Crispy Pata, then think no children go on to have their own families. more and order it. Ongpauco’s father Rod was said to have happy Ongpauco-Tiu, owner of Bistro Pamana, comes from invented the original dish, which is one of the specialties a big family where everybody loves food, and now, she shares of Barrio Fiesta, another of the family’s businesses. The her family’s best recipes for the public to enjoy and experience. Chicken Binakol, a dished cooked in young coconut juice After the success of its two predecessors, Pamana in and served inside a coconut, is another twist on what we Tagaytay and Boracay, it’s about time that this dining place commonly know as tinola. For dessert, don’t miss their built on familial tradition opens in the heart of Makati for version of the ginumis, a shaved ice dessert like the halo- diners to wind down and feel a sense of home despite an halo. It’s a simpler dessert compared to the latter, with overloaded schedule; all it’d take is an hour of home-cooked only gulaman, sago, and coconut milk as ingredients, but goodness for them to feel recharged. the homemade panutsa (raw sugar cane) ice cream wins Bistro Pamana’s extensive selection of authentic Filipino because of its very Filipino flavor that’s not found in the food begins with the Ongpaucos’ rendition of the lumpiang usual grocery brand ice cream. shanghai, the Lumpia Trio: a variety of lumpia rolls with The timeless recipes handed down from family and longganisa, kesong puti, and tinapa filling. And ordering friends result in a fresh new Filipino menu that is not hard a plate of the Crispy Baby Pusit in Black Ink, a recipe of to love and makes Bistro Pamana live up to its tagline: “A the Ongpaucos’ close friend, Sari Jorge of 25 Mushroom True Legacy of Filipino Cuisine.”

SOUTHERNliving 52 CORP AD (MKTG) EATS

Happy Ongpauco- Tiu created a secret recipe to make her Lechon Roll unique and special (extreme left). Bistro Pamana also has a selection of local spreads and sauces (left). Ginumis (below, left) is the simpler version of the halo-halo but stiill flavor-packed. The Lumpiang Trio also has different dips to complement the different fillings (below).

Bistro Pamana. GF Greenbelt Mansion, 109 Perea Street, Legazpi Village, Makati City. 815-1823. www.pamanarestaurant.com.

SOUTHERNliving 54 RECIPE FRESH OUT OF THE OVEN This fluffy pastry is best eaten with a warm cup of chocolate on a lazy day TEXT Kat Patiño-Marquez PHOTOGRAPHY AND STYLING sam lim

Traditional Puto Preparation

Ingredients 1. Mix the flour, sugar, and baking 5. Top with shredded cheese and red powder together in a bowl. 4 cups all-purpose flour egg. Place pan into a steamer and let 2. In a separate bowl, whisk eggs with 2 cups white sugar cook for 30 minutes. Test by placing the evaporated milk and water. 1 tbsp baking powder a toothpick in the center of one puto. 3. Slowly fold the dry ingredients into 6 eggs If it comes out clean, it’s done. the wet ingredients with a spatula 1 12-ounce can evaporated milk 6. Cool on a wire rack and spread top until mixed well. 1 1/2 cups water with additional butter. 4. Grease a puto or cupcake mold 2 1/4 cups cheese with butter. Fill the molds 2/3 of the Red egg (optional) way up with batter.

southernliving 55 THE GET

Seamless Portrayal Culture and heritage are interwoven in a narrative of traditional Filipino clothing text Pristine L. de Leon

The rise and fall of different trends characterize the current age. Where we continually observe fashion and design being shaped and reshaped by unrelenting waves of fads, it would be comforting to think that the clothing industry has something more to offer than its tolerance for transience. In an effort to veer away from the hackneyed query “What’s new?,” a book entitled Habi: A Journey through Philippine Handwoven Textiles is a focused exploration of that which lasts. The handbook made by Habi, the Philippine Textile Council delves deep into the country’s diverse weaving traditions, as it threads together the history and the practice of the indigenous craft, and gradually unravels the meaning behind the seams. Articles reveal how each fabric, woven with warp and weft, is teeming with indigenous beliefs. Wearing them, then, affords the individual with something far richer than style, for as every fabric fashioned by native hands speaks of heritage, it clothes the wearer in history made tactile. Culture, to a degree, resists commodification. The book divulges how each fabric can be worn and appropriated in the present time, while still retaining its rare, exotic character. Each article displays the woven textiles’ versatility. For instance, there’s the classic piña worn as camisas and barongs at formal events, the delicate sinamay serving as accent materials used for haute couture designs, the hablon used as sablay in UP graduation rites, and the tubular malong perpetually shifting shapes to resemble accessories, skirts, and dresses. Some exquisitely-made fabrics find residence in museums and personal collections. To some extent, the book does exactly the same: it preserves the essence of these fabrics, weaves their narratives with words, transcribes and allows its readers to trek the wicker landscape of culture, heritage, and history. The pictures of woven patterns then rearrange themselves like letters on a page—comprehensible, thick, and tender with meaning, and infinitely open to the reader’s interpretation.

Habi: A Journey Through Philippine Handwoven Textiles. Available at Habi, the Philippine Textile Council’s office, Unit 4D Carmen Court, 6080 Palma Street, Barangay Poblacion, Makati City.

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