Pyongyang Marathon Going the Distance Intro Festival Return of the Original Underground Party Soldiers of Misfortune the KMT Veterans on the Wrong Side of History

Pyongyang Marathon Going the Distance Intro Festival Return of the Original Underground Party Soldiers of Misfortune The KMT Veterans on the Wrong Side of History

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2 MAY 2014 Thats_Beijing EDITOR’s twitter.com/Thats_Beijing note www.facebook.com/pages/Thats-Beijing MAY

Around this time last year, someone politely suggested we put together a summer sports issue, because that’s an idea that hasn’t been done to death by every other magazine a million times before. Yet, here we are, in the dying days of spring, with our very own inadvertent sports issue. Will Philipps kicks off proceedings on page 16, with his “North Korean workout plan.” in the annual Pyongyang marathon. On page 42, I hit the gym with two of China’s top teen- Join him, as he attempts to become the first ever foreign amateur runner to go the distance Arts (MMA). While on page 38, Nightlife Editor Alex Taggart proves raving really is the best formage cage of exercise, fighters, as to he find meets out what with itthe takes organizers to succeed of the in theINTRO brutal Festival, world and of Mixed goes behind Martial legend, turned hired goalkeeping gun, AKA, the most truthful man in football, our very own Mr.the Ianscenes Walker, at Beijing’s as he guides original us EDMthrough summer the corrupt party. Andunderground finally we world join Tottenham of Chinese Hotspur match- Our life and style editor Marianna Cerini, photo- Too much? Worry not, there’s more to this issue than tenuous sports-related content. graphed here with British style Elsewherefixing (page in 80). the magazine Karoline Kan meets with China’s last surviving KMT veterans icon Paul Smith. Never meet (page 10), Marina Garvey-Birch travels to Taiwan to sample the island’s famous night mar- your idols, they say. Well, Paul kets (page 30), our resident columnist Ali Ali makes peace with the idea of being a token certainly has now. black friend (page 14), and last, but by no means least, there’s the Great Wall Music Festival, for which we’ve got a fist full of tickets to give away (page 65). Rave on sports fans. Stephen George

Editor-in-Chief

Senior editor Will Philipps got a lot of strange looks when he told people he was off to North Korea to run a marathon – but that was nothing compared to the strange looks he got from the North Korean spectators as he ran around the course.

If April was the month of rock ‘n’ roll (did you spot us playing air guitar at Sound of the Xity and Strawberry?), then May is the month of electronica. We’ve got two pairs of tickets to give away to both INTRO (p38) and the Great Wall Festival (p65), there's also a pair of tickets for the Whose Line Is It Anyway? comedy gig (p33); a pair of tickets to the Beijing screening of Comrade Kim Goes Flying (p40); a pair of tickets for the Nanluoguxiang Theater Festival (p41); and a meal voucher for Niajo (p71).

MAY 2014 3 6 CITY

9 WHAT WOULD CONFUCIUS DO? Moral dilemmas dissected through the teachings of Confucius. 15 Chinese urban dictionary Webslangin’ words made comprehensible.

16 PYONGYANG MARATHON Twenty six miles in a repressive dictatorship.

Sign up for 20 LIFE & STYLE 1 year 21 STYLE SECRETS Fashion designer Georgette on the (12 issues) importance of feeling comfortable. 24 China’s beauty home delivery industry of That’s What makes up the cosmetics industry in China. Beijing for 30 TRAVEL: TAIWAN We eat and shop around the RMB240 island’s vibrant night markets. 34 ARTS

37 tortoise The Illinois post-rock legends come out of their shell before playing Beijing. 38 intro festival It’s not all that easy organizing an EDM festival in an old steel factory. 40 comrade kim The groundbreaking (and perhaps only) North Korean rom-com arrives in Beijing.

50 EAT & DRINK

52 mama pizza It’s in this mother’s nature to

make great pizzas. 53 soloist TEL: 84477002 The café where making [email protected] . coffee55 hat is sa ufinene art Beijing’s popular California sushi joint is on a roll.

4 MAY 2014 THE WRAP quote of the issue ”If the UFC staged a tournament in China tomorrow, all the Chinese fighters would get beaten, badly. This would be a big problem. Everybody would know that kung fu’s famous magic powers are a lie“

MMA trainer ‘Bobo’ Wu Jing , page 45

COLUMNists 42 Fight Club On the road with China’s teenage cage fighters.

14 ali ali

35 adam dehmohseni

52 V SPORTS Do the owners of Vics know how to run a sports bar?

1o SOLDIERS OF MISFORTUNE We meet with China’s last surviving KMT veterans. 36 alex taggart

MAY 2014 5 TH E BUZZ

Ask a LaoBeijing What do you think of the taxis and traffic in Beijing? Yang Quanli was taking his grandson home from a park in Gulou. He has a slow and simple lifestyle – no car, no cellphone, no Internet. “I don’t like taxis. The drivers are so picky. I am outside every day with

strategy when choosing a passenger. A single person is better than a group, youngmy little is bettergrandson than and old, although and Chinese I don’t is lookbetter for than taxis, foreigners I’ve figured who out may their not be able to direct them to the right location.

a taxi! But one trick: without saying a word, open the door and sit down, they’re“If you unlikely are a seniorto be able foreigner to get youwith out a kid, of the then taxi don’t then. bother trying to find “I don’t need taxis. Taxis are only for those busy businessman and rich people. You can walk and cycle anywhere for free, take the bus for several mao or the subway for two kuai. Why do you need a taxi that costs 20 yuan or more? “There is something called Didi Dache that can help you to get a taxi? Well, sounds amazing, but still, I won’t be tempted!”

everybody lives like me, then no car is needed. I have lived here for almost “The traffic jams are the price you pay in return for modern life. If cancer. 20 years and have seen how the traffic gets worse and worse. It is this city’s There is a parking area but it remains empty while its entrance is almost blocked“And by the cars. reason? I can’t I see understand no traffic people regulation, today; at they least don’t not here hesitate in Gulou. to spend a lot of money buying a car but think it is too expensive to pay the

photo by noemi cassanelli by photo parking fee which is about eight yuan per hour here.”

Random Number 30

will come from desalinated sea water by 2019, accord- This is the percentage of Beijing’s water supply that company’s newest initiative will see seven billion yuan ing to Beijing Enterprises Water Group (BEWG). The-

(USD1.12bn) spent on the treatment plants and 10 bil The movelion yuan should (USD1.6bn) come as a onwelcome 270km development of pipelines. for the capital which has technically been experienc- ing drought for the past 15 years, according to some

however, which is double the price of the city's current experts. The water will cost RMB8 (USD1.29)tap water persupply. ton

COUNTERFEIT CUPs China Customs Expand Trophy Cabinet

Officials in Yiwu, Zhejiang, seized over one thousand fake World Cup trophies on April 16. Raids by customs and police netted the iconic cups (all looking just as tacky as the real thing) which were caught en route to Libya (who knew?) ahead of the start of the tournament in Brazil this June.

6 MAY 2014 [email protected]

OVERHEARD “If possible, I would also like to build an amphibious toy tank that could drive through water” his young son a home-made, fully functional, three-ton tank. Con- Formerstructing PLA the naval vehicle officer from Jian tractor Lin onwheels, his next a truck project, engine after and he abuilt refitted gearbox, the project took two months and cost RMB40,000 (USD6,400). The tank was reportedly modeled on the PLA’s Type 63A light tank, although the originals are around 85 percent heavier and nearly three times bigger than Jian’s model.

OUT ON A LIMB Tough Guy Gets New Artificial Legs - came headline news last year after he amputated his own leg using Former corn farmer and local tough-guy Zheng Yanliang, who be -

fromnothing a severe more thancase ofa rusty arterial saw thrombosis and a blunt in fruit both knife, legs, hassawed been off fit his gangrenousted out with limbartificial as he legs. was Theunable 48-year-old, to afford thewho high had costbeen of suffering treat-

ment. He later received approximately RMB360,000 (USD57,744) in todonations. walk again After in astrying little the as twolegs months,for the first according time in to Beijing, the medical Zheng center’smanaged staff. to stand for five minutes. With practice, he may be able

SNOOPING AROUND Man Sues Girlfriend for Emotional Damage Caused by Snoopy Doll A man from Wuhan, Hubei, broke off his four-year relationship after he was forced to compete with a duringstuffed theSnoopy relationship doll for his had girlfriend’s also led him affections. to seek compensation. The “emotional and financial cost” suffered by 27-year-old Fang Yan

Fang’s girlfriend would allegedly order food for the three of 20kgthem overand then the course force him of the to finishrelationship. Snoopy’s untouched leftovers. Eating the toy’s meals – in addition to his own – led to Fang gaining dates where his girlfriend would insist that he buy a separate ticket Skin Graffiti for theFang stuffed also claims dog. The that pair’s Snoopy relationship chaperoned came the to pair a head to cinema when dog would accompany her to the toilet. When attempting to recon- portraying part of the famous Chinese painting Along the River dur- Fang threw the doll on the floor after his girlfriend told him that the ingAn artistthe Qingming in Zhuzhou, Festival Hunan,. The spent original five painting, days completing attributed this to tattoo artist - ages.cile, he was reportedly told to first apologize to Snoopy. Henan and is one of China’s most renowned pieces of art. He refused and is now seeking RMB40,000 (USD6,400) in dam Zhang Zeduan (1085-1145), captures life from the Song period in

MAY 2014 7 CITY « tales TALES OF THE CITY

Global Playa 100 counterpart,Beijing has beaten Washington Seoul, DC, in Was the number of aBrussels, newly complied Singapore survey and its rank US- violators fined by Beijing’s ing the world’s most “globally newly commissioned Air Pollution Prevention beat DC. The Chinese capital Regulators (APPR) last wasengaged” ranked cities. eighth, Yep, entering Beijing month. According to law - enforcement officers from cording to the 2014 AT Kearney the Capital Environmental the top 10 for the first time, ac Protection Bureau, the 100 violations totaled yearsGlobal since Cities 2008, Index measures (GCI). The more than 3 million yuan theGCI, level conducted of global every engagement two (USD482,100) in fines, - while another 64 cases are still to be processed. capital,for 84 cities information across five exchange, key ar Most of the those fined are culturaleas – business experience activity, and human politi- thought to be large-scale cal engagement. Asia claimed industrial factories. seven of the top 20 cities, with Tokyo, ranked fourth, followed

maintained the top spot, fol- lowedby Hong by Kong London. at fifth. New York Cr-app

An app designed to help users locate the nearest public toilet has been launched by

forthcoming marathon, in a bid to prevent the typethe Beijing of embarrassing Government, scenes ahead that of lastthe city’syear saw runners urinate along the side of the

Forbidden City. The app, available for both nearestiOS and Androidto the user’s platforms, location. shows By selecting a map of one,the 20 and public then toiletsshaking – squatthe smartphone, and western the – app will show the fastest path.

310,000 That’s the alleged RMB price parents can expect to pay on the black market for a spot for their children at the prestigious

canZhongguancun be found advertised No.1 Primary on a varietySchool. ofPlaces online educationat the famous forums. (non-fee According paying) to Beijing a report school, in the Beijing Youth Daily, scalpers guarantee access by bribing the school’s president.

that enrollment remains tightly controlled. Officials have denied the report, maintaining

8 MAY 2014 wwcd » CITY

What Would confucius do?

I enjoy the thrill of stealing things and have, for the past year, taken a variety of low-value items from my office (printer paper, staplers and so on). I know that stealing is wrong but my company is a big multina- tional and the loss of these small items makes no difference to its already sizable profits. To make myself feel better, I then calculate the total value of everything I take and donate that same amount of money to charity. Am I a force for social justice or an immoral kleptomaniac?

Let me begin by telling you a story from the you have contributed to charity, you will said: “wealth could be used to decorate the ancient Chinese classic, The Great Learning, be remembered only as a thief. Is that what house, while virtue can nourish your body in which a man commits all manner of you want? and heart, making you bright and open- villainous acts when left alone. In front of I am reminded here again of a Chinese minded. A noble person must be honest and others however, he hides this side of his sincere.” personality, presenting a more kindly and human beings do on earth.” When you It’s not too late, since you know it is honest persona. indulgesaying: “thein the Gods pleasures observe and everything thrills of bad to steal. Confucius encouraged self- There is no real difference between stealing, you feel unease in your heart. examination and once you have the ability “stealing a variety of low-value items” or You donate not because you want to to feel shame, it is not too late to change. committing a more serious crime. The contribute, but because you wish to make I know there are so many people like you yourself comfortable. You hope you can be who rely on luck, but luck is the last thing to stealing things” because, like the man in the regarded as a hero in modern times but you be relied upon. stain is permanent. You “enjoy the thrill of are cheating yourself. Confucius said that > chang yaohua is a professor of traditional chinese of others. You “calculate the total value of “good people are at peace with themselves, culture at beijing international studies University. his everythingtale, you are and shielded donate from the money”the judgment because [but] there is no rest for the wicked.” This book, seventeen lectures on chinese culture and his- you wish to present yourself as a gentleman. horrible feeling will rot your spirit. tory, was published in 2008. As the Chinese say: “there is no such Then what should you do? The Great send your ethical dilemma for professor chang to wall that the wind can’t blow through.” I Learning suggests: “a man of virtue will be [email protected] am afraid it won’t be long before your little cautious of what he does even when he is secret is noticed. It won’t matter how much

alone.” And Confucius’ student Zengzi once

MAY 2014 9 CITY « feature Soldiers of Misfortune The KMT Veterans on the Wrong Side of History by Karoline Kan photo by noemi cassanelli by photo

- memory, the war remains a central part of his forces to Taiwan, taking with him about history education and patriotism in China. two million surviving soldiers. At the Babaoshan Cemetery in Beijing’s Shi But many more KMT soldiers remained jingshan District, people gather to pay their on the Chinese Mainland. Director of respects to Jiang Dazong, a former member As the Sino-Japanese War broke out in July outof the of Kuomintangthe funeral hall, (KMT). bidding Wearing farewell white to a 1937, the KMT and the Chinese Communist Chunlong, who supports volunteers helping manflowers who on lived their for lapels, 92 years they in wander a land inwhich and Party (CCP) suspended their civil conflict formerShenzhen soldiers, Longyue estimates Charity that Foundation, over 20,000 Sun he had fought for, protected and loved. That millionto form Chinesethe Anti-Japanese soldiers from National both armiesUnited KMT veterans remained in the Chinese same land in turn forgot him, save for the Front. Between 1937 and 1945, almost four Mainland without being incorporated into - surrendered in 1945. - emony. wereThe either fact injuredthat the or two killed sides before fought Japan along - gests that fewer than 1,000 of them have 60 orAll so falls people silent in asattendance the eulogy at is the read cer side one another is often ignored, according the People’s Liberation Army (PLA). He sug aloud. spends his spare time looking for and re- veteransbeen identified. proved very different from their - tocording Xue Gang, the stories a Beijing-based of veterans volunteer of the Anti- who communistThe subsequent and Taiwan-based experiences counter of these- “Jiang Dazong was born in May 1922. parts. Many became the targets of suspi- theWhen army the in Japanese 1944, before invaded being China sent he to volun battle cion and persecution, according to 93-year- intarily Burma dropped to protect out of the university only road and by joinedwhich Japanese War. war supplies could be sent to China….” he says.“No matter“The honor which of sidewinning the [veterans] the war been labelled a KMT reactionary, a spy and Hearing the obituary, an old man stand- shouldwere from, be shared KMT or by CCP, both they sides. were But heroes,” the politicalold Fu Guoqian criminal. who has, since the war, ing in the corner sheds a tear. He had fought civil war [that followed] and the ideological disputes that went on for years afterwards “I was also a KMT soldier who fought in have somehow wiped KMT veterans from KMTOn lieutenant the wall ofbares Fu’s littleroom resemblance hangs a photo Worldalongside War Jiang. Two,” he reveals. “I guess what the honor list.” totaken the 70old years man nowago. standingThe young, beside handsome it with we did in that war has been forgotten by silver hair and a hunchback. The interven- people today.” - ing years have been testing for the elderly But while many of the stories of the erationThe andvictory the civilagainst war the soon Japanese resumed. swiftly In veteran. individuals who fought have faded from marked the end of the KMT and CCP’s coop Born into a rich Chinese family in

1949, KMT leader Chiang Kai-shek fled with 10 MAY 2014 Family members, friends and volunteers bid farewell to former KMT veteran Jiang Dazong, at Beijing’s Babaoshan Cemetery

The veterans often found that their "The civil war and choices came to shape their futures in arbi- inThailand, 1939. After Fu traveled graduating to China from agedWhampoa 19 and, Militaryfull of patriotic Academy dreams, in 1943, joined he was the sent army to the ideological dis- being made to suffer for innocent decisions. - putes have somehow trary ways. Many feel a sense of injustice at theagency Sino-American built to strengthen Special Technicalcollaboration Coop KMTA veteran army in came Hunan and told the Xue leader Gang: told “It me: was erative Organization (SACO), an intelligence wiped KMT veterans ‘nowspring. our I was country working is in indanger, my field. what’s Then the the point in you staying here protecting your Datongbetween where, China inand 1949, the heUS. was After captured the war, by Fu from the honor list" home?’ I thought he was right, and at least spent several years working in Beijing and if I followed them I wouldn’t have to worry tion” process and when he later worked in the PLA,“I don’t sentenced ask for much; to 15 yearsI only inwish jail toand be a state-owned factory, promotion proved treatedsent to Xinjiang fairly,” he for laments. “re-education.” “I fought against impossible, no matter how diligently he about food. But if the Japanese came I might worked. have“I been blamed killed.” myself So afterwardshe joined the but army, how a war criminal?” coulddecision I have that known came to that define a legal his army later oflife. the the Japanese, why on earth did I become a who should my father blame?” he asks. government would become illegal in the fu- During the Cultural Revolution, his wife “Sometimes I blamed my father. But buriedFu’s any family items also linked suffered to her for husband his past. by among the KMT veterans that the research- what would happen if the army passing by Such difficulties are not uncommon ture? For a long time, I kept thinking about to herself at night and would tell their son: with former soldiers. would have my pension, live in a nice house “Ifa river anybody bank. asks While anything he was relatedin jail, she to your wept er Xue“We Gang are taughthas encountered that everybody in his shouldwork andmy field be regarded had been as the a national CCP instead. hero.” Maybe I father, tell them you don’t have one.” be responsible for their country’s fate but who is going to be responsible for the these old men had dreamed of, says Xue. still bullied at school and his later life was individuals?” he asks. “If it were the special “OnlySuch respect those who is something were once that in the many army of alsoNonetheless haunted by thethe shadowyoung Fu of Shengli his father’s was circumstances of the period that caused the understand [the veterans] eagerness for veterans’ tragedy, who is going to compen- honor and recognition, especially in a coun- - “political issues.” His application to join the PLA was rejected in the “political investiga sate them for their sacrifice?” try where the Anti-Japanese War is so often MAY 2014 11 Born in 1919 in Ningbo, Zhejiang, Luo Zhengda lost his right hand during the By the time volunteers found 92-year- Sino-Japanese war. Never married, Luo old Chen Xueliang in Tengchong, wrote letters to both the local authorities Yunnan, he had already lost his sight. and the relevant departments in Taiwan, He’s pictured here holding the “honor requesting assistance with his living certificate” presented to him by Xue subsidies, but was turned down Gang

97-year-old Zhao Zhenying spent 20 years Wu Jiangping was born in 1913 in in jail due to his association with the KMT. Jinan, Shandong. He fought in the Zhao, who now lives in Beijing, was present Marco Polo Bridge Incident in 1937, at the official surrender of Japan in 1945 as which marked the start of the Sino- a senior member of the winning side. Today Japanese war. As he likes to remind Zhao is willing to talk about his experience, young people, “Never forget China’s which he kept secret for sixty years humiliation and the sacrifice the old believing it to be a “shameful personal generation made for a free nation” stain”

12 MAY 2014 feature » CITY

mentioned and remembered," he says. But the shift in attitudes, although In the early winter of 2009, Xue and his "The war ended al- small, is a welcome development for many fellow volunteers bought some military former KMT soldiers who previously hid coats printed with “Veterans of World War most 70 years ago, Two” for former KMT soldiers in remote - mountain areas. He says that upon receiv- they cannot wait for ter-revolutionarytheir past lives, including and sentenced 97-year-old to 20 Zhao years ing the gifts, the veterans cried as if they Zhenying, who was accused of being a coun another 70 years" “I never mentioned anything about their efforts, although the garments had thosein jail daysin 1969. to anybody. I thought it was simplyhad finally been received produced official by the recognition volunteers. for numbers of volunteers are working to raise shameful,” he explains. Xue reports that one former soldier put awareness for war heroes and encourage - on the coat and walked from door to door more open discussions about their role. niversary, while watching a documentary through the whole village showing people But in the year of the war’s 60th an - Affairs announced that although KMT veteransIn July are 2013, still China’s not included Ministry in the of Civil state’s thatabout day.” the Japanese surrender, he said that“They he had protect not lied everything – he was one we ofgive the them he commitment to care for former soldiers quietly“Outside to his as son: a bystander?” “I attended theasked ceremony his son. thatroes relateswho had to fought their identity against asthe a Japanese.soldier, through the national social security system, it is “still paying high attention to the issue winning side. I witnessed the whole process or even an envelope with a World War Two and asks all levels of government organs to “No, inside the hall, as a member of the logono matter on it,” if says it is Xue.a uniform, “They treata flag, them a badge as provide related social assistance.” This is certainly a welcome development, but sadly – how the Japanese Commander-in-Chief keeping them in the bottom of their cabi- one that may prove too late, says Xue. Yasuji Okamura [surrendered] to General nets.”antiques, wrapping them in clothes and “It is not perfect but at least it shows unableHe Yingqin,” to believe he told that him. his father, who he had Zhaobeen recallsashamed that of hisin his son youth, was shocked, was one narrative surrounding the role of the KMT more announcements and clearer ones too,” of the heroes honored at the event. It was a is slowlyFortunately, changing. the Xue ideology claims and that historical tracking hesignificant says. “The progress. veterans I amare still old, waitingsome disa for- small but invaluable moment of recognition down former soldiers has become easier bled, abandoned by their family or regarded for the aging veteran. as bringing bad luck to people around them. > to reach Xue Gang and his organization, or to donate “I don’t know how long these people can to veterans, please contact 133 0125 7873 or follow the since 2005, when former Chinese President weibo account @北京老蚂蚁薛刚 Hu Jintao praised the role of the KMT in the Anti-Japanese War in a speech marking the wait. The war ended almost 70 years ago, 60th anniversary of the conflict. Increasing they cannot wait for another 70 years.” Beijing bestsellers

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MAY 2014 13 CITY « black mirror chinese urban dictionary » CITY Black mirror Because Not All Laowai Are White

By ali ali

I felt unable to dignify the questions with a response. A Chinese teenager was calling my blackness into question

“Ge ge, can I play some music from your laptop… please?” asked a friend’s younger brother, who was visiting from Hubei one week- that with every mumble and slip I make, I suddenly fade from black end. Without giving it much thought and eager to vibe to some toI normally gray, more end effectively up sounding than like any Sloth bleaching from the cream Goonies, on the unaware market. music, I relented. He frantically darted across the room to analyze Had I known that I would have to take on this role, I probably my iTunes. As the speakers blared, I zoned out. My feet were tapping at top tastes of others because of the color of my skin is a daunting task. speed and my lips were steadily mouthing the lyrics. I was the only would have stayed in the UK. Being responsiblelaowai for influencing the one, however. My friend and his little brother stood motionless, their faces caught in an intense and puzzled stare. And it is not just my Chinese friends. Other are just as aguilty. circle, During with my a night friends of revelryand other in Sanlitun,partygoers the yelling: DJ began “go playing Ali, go Xiao Da Sugarhill Gang’s “Rapper’s Delight,” and suddenly I was thrust into had “Whatblack music? is this? This Why isn’t rock black!” music?!” were just some of the questions raised. “ Wayne, Nicki Minaj, Sean, I thought you goAli!” full I have performing yet to find seal out and what do the made running them man?assume that was my jam.It Was made I just me supposedthink. If the to shoestand was there on and the mouthother foot all theand lyrics, the or I felt unable to dignify the questions with a response. A Chinese teenager was calling my blackness into question. Now don’t get me wrong, I am and will always be a hip-hop head behavior?DJ started blasting “Careless Whisper,” would me egging a white and a maestro of R&B slow jams, but I pride myself on being an friend on to sing and dance be considered normal, or just worrying country,eclectic soul. but boundaries Whether it’s are house, healthy. indie or the dulcet tones of Norah - Jones,A little my musical rock music mind ain’t knows never no hurtlimits. my Well, people. I do In draw fact theit did line at A variety of black artists arrive in Beijing and pack venues such intoas Vics overdrive. and Elements. The look Just on last some month, people’s the buzzfaces surroundingwhen I told them a con I name a few. But sadly I don’t have superstar status to cushion the wascert notheld going by Lil’ was Jon, priceless. a man of extremely few words to be frank, went blow.wonders Listening for Jimi to Hendrix, anything Lenny other Kravitz than urban and Skunkmusic madeAnansie, me toless black in the eyes of young Chinese. our fellow man for both amusement and malice. I remember speak- It suddenly dawned on me. Being a token black friend carries an ing toStereotypes a Chinese friendcome easily who said to us. that We’re they all had guilty to retake of pigeonholing their ga- immeasurable amount of responsibility. I was now a prophetic guru okao exam as they kept failing math. “Math?!” this voice in my head of all things urban. A ballin’, shot-callin’ oracle who could street screeched. “How the hell is an Asian person going to fail math?” dance, dress baggy and have an eight-octave vocal range when To be the token friend, you have to take everything with a pinch of salt. If someone asks you to recite the entire discography of High onsinging a performance “I Believe Ifor Can an Fly” audience at KTV. who expect nothing but stellar School Musical talent.Ah, As KTV soon – the as theone redplace sparkly where microphone black people is can’t passed escape down putting to me Jay-Z and you have a better chance of knowing all the words to like a beacon, what feels like a million eyes glare into my soul, the moves at a moment’s, don’t dwellnotice. on the impending judgment that you are expectant tambourines and maracas forming a deafening crescen- about> next m toon tface.h our mIfa youn talk cans bu sdance,iness as great,he pays but a vis don’tit to the expect instituti oUsher-likens at the hea rt of do. beijing‘s black community.

While I think I might hit Pharrell’s falsetto tones in the shower, 14 MAY 2014 chinese urban dictionary » CITY jiepanxia /jiēpánxiá/接盘侠

By mia li

n. the term for a man, usually older and unlucky in love, who finds himself marrying a woman who only loves him for the financial and economic stability he can offer her.

How to use it:

A: Have you heard that over-the-hill pop star is getting married to some rich businessman from Shanxi? B: Oh yes. He is such a brave jiepanxia. We thank him for his sacrifice.

A: The girl I have been dating for the past few weeks just told me that she got pregnant three times with her ex- boyfriend before he dumped her. B: Careful now! Maybe you’re her jiepanxia!

hide away. And that place is in the arms of a jiepanxia. Yesterday,Literally love meaning was such “the an brave easy onegame who to play.takes Now over I theneed plate,” a place to a jiepanxia

is someone (usually male), who ends up marrying a stablewoman life who with has someone already hadshe isher not share madly of failedin love romantic with but conquestsis at least in her youth. Now she is simply lookingjiepanxia for. a comfortable and "Xia", a term from wuxia considered safe. Enter the noble jiepanxia makes is (martial that of his arts) right lore, to refersmarry to someone the tragic whohero trulywho sacrificesloves him. his The own greater interests good for a jiepanxia the greater serves good. is simplyThe that…well,sacrifice a someone’s got to marry those ladies. The “pan” in jiepanxia means a plate and in this context a messy one, referring to the shattered state those women are in after years of partying hard and sleeping around. One day she wakes up and realizes she has become too old to play the game and desperately seeks an exit strategy. We’ve all heard the story of the party girl who ends up marrying some charming but conformist accountant or dentist, settling for a jiepanxia shines light on that accountant or dentist, a hitherto forgettable characterboring but indistinguishable comfortable life in from the suburbs.the masses, Now who the then term honors his to end up picking up the pieces of our modern sexual indulgence. role and sacrifice. He probably worked hard his whole life, only jiepanxia. The hero that sacrifices for the greater good, we honor thee, noble jiepanxias remain scarce for now, but Statisticsanecdotal on evidence the happiness shows that of it is still possible for them to truly win their women over and have a

Finding Mr. Right - happy and fulfillingForrest life, such Gump as . Frank> mia li i sin a news reporter in beijin, gor b yFor day; restat nig hGumpt, she tr in,ies twell,o turn that news into standup comedy.

MAY 2014 15 Running The pyongyang marathon Going the Distance in the DPRK

BY WILL PHILIPPS

Our author runs a lonely final lap of the Kim Il-sung Stadium during the Pyongyang Marathon

16 MAY 2014 feature » CITY

Korea but the plane I board is completely full. The aging T here is rarely much demand for flights to and from North- nessmen and lonely diplomats, is today carrying 250 amateur and adventurousSoviet runners jet, usually from the across exclusive the globe. preserve All are of Chinese heading busi to

professionals from abroad. Pyongyang to take part in the country’s first marathon open to non- professional runners. I ask the wiry and beaming Morris Mwangi The plane, I soon discover, is also carrying a handful of jobbing really,” he tells me. “This will be my ninth marathon there.” from Kenya if he’s as excited about going to Pyongyang as I am. “Not

the hotel,Somewhat sing karaokesurprised, at theI ask bar… him youwhat know, I can normal expect tostuff.” do in the NorthThe Korean idea of capital a Kenyan before marathon and after runner the race. singing “Sightsee, karaoke relax in a in

onePyongyang of the world’s bar is farmost from intriguing most people’s yet tragic idea nations, of what nothing constitutes is ordinary. But in the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK), This very abnormality is, I suspect, the greatest appeal for most ofquite my asfellow it seems. travelers. ‘Normal’ I am is no a worddifferent. rarely Being uttered able byto saytourists. I’d done

of why I wanted to go. somethingAlthough as youunusual have as no run freedom a marathon to explore in the and DPRK there’s was little a big part

interactionBut I also with hoped North that Koreans, running there side-by-side is something with Koreansinescapably and withinvoyeuristic touching about distance DPRK travel. of the spectators might allow for something of a different perspective than that granted to most tourists. As the general manager of my trip’s organizers Koryo Tours,

ratherSimon Cockerell,than the ‘marathon’ tells the press part.” prior to the race: “many tourists haveHe signed also told up. Ius think to expect a lot of the the unexpected attraction andis the be ‘Pyongyang’ ready for part misinformation and last-minute changes. This advice proves

prophetic as we arrive at the Kim Il-sung Stadium on a foggy and chilly race day morning: the cut-off time for finishing the full marathon has suddenly decreased. Upon signing up I had been told 4five hours hours. and Now 20 minutes, I’m hearing so I three-and-a-half.am frankly a little concerned. I ask our Ahead of Pyongyang, my fastest marathon to date is a leisurely

downlocal guide to the to half clarify. marathon She smiles before and noticing tells me: on “Don’tthe race worry, program you’ll thatfinish the the medal race.” and Not closing exactly ceremony reassured, is Iexactly contemplate four hours dropping after the - thing I very much hope to do. Looking around at all the scrawny and start. I surmise that I therefore have four hours to finish – some half marathon races, I decide to go for the full 42 kilometers. anxious-lookingThere is a nervous North hourKorean as wekids wait taking for thepart start in the of 10kmthe race and out - BRIAN SLOAN aside stadium the stadium. packed Somewith 50,000runners Korean are stretching spectators, while ready others to take pose our

BY PHOTO placesfor photos at the with starting local kids.line. WeEventually cautiously we waveline up at and the walkcrowds out who into

MAY 2014 17 CITY « feature U RS TO ORYO F K O F

Elite runners pass the Arch of Triumph in central Pyongyang at the 10km mark U RTESY CO

reply with cheers and waves of their own. “It’s not quite the carnival atmos- It is as surreal for us as I suspect it is for the audience. In the phere of say, the London mara-

DPRK everyone wears a uniform or ceremonial outfit of some kind. thon, but there are plenty smiles Seeing 225 mismatched foreigners parade around the track in - and cheers of encouragement” multi-coloredmost athletics high-techevents sees running my usual gear pre-race must be nerves quite extraordinaryburied by the forexcitement. them too. The fact that I am present at one of North Korea’s fore Lining up side-by-side with the local runners at the start of the scraper, which has been locked in a perpetual state of construction - two years but I suspect she has been saying that for a long time. togetherrace, I am so transfixed often provides, by their the antiquated vast gulf between sports kit locals and flimsy-lookand foreign- Theresince 1987. are military Our guide compounds told us that teeming it would with be soldierscompleted who in crane the next ing running shoes. Despite the affinity that running 42 kilometers their necks for a glimpse of us. But mostly the view is one of unas- After a false start, which prompts much laughter from the crowd,ers with we energy set off gels on ourand four dry-fit laps kit of could the course. not be Wemore pass pronounced. imposing on their window ledges the only signs of life or character. sumingI have streets plenty dotted of time with to observe grey tower at ground blocks, level, the few where flowerpots place in front of over 100,000 spectators each year. There’s also the people have turned out in droves to watch us race. Many are loomingmonuments Ryugyong like the Hotel, May Day a 330-meter stadium, tallwhere pyramid-shaped the Mass Games sky take-

smartly dressed, again in uniform or military attire. Others are just 18 MAY 2014 feature » CITY U RS TO ORYO F K O F

Medals are awarded to the fastest foreign amateurs at the closing ceremony U RTESY CO

butgroups there of areyoung plenty children, of smiles cackling and cheers wildly of as encouragement. I hand out high-fives. theme jogstadium. past. They A huge laugh wave and of cheer,disappointment galvanizing washes my efforts over tome reach as I It’s not quite the carnival atmosphere of say, the London Marathon, the finish. Four hours have passed and I’m still a kilometer from demeanor. They are here to compete. I wonder whether a good time beckoning me to enter. I politely decline and plod on to the stadium The North Korean amateur runners don’t share this cheery where,realize thankfully,I might not themake door it. Ais car still of open. officials pulls up alongside me, known, might secure them a place in a sports team or university. I bound onto an empty track, unsure if I should even be go- Whohere atknows the Mangyongdae how that might Prize affect International their futures Marathon, and those as of it their is also ing clockwise or anticlockwise. 50,000 gazes cast down on me as families? Looking at their grimaced expressions as they overtake front or behind me. As I raise a hand in acknowledgment, cheers hang-ups seem trivial. andI slowly laughs jog ringthe remaining out from sections 400 meters of the with crowd. no runners A couple visible of minutes in me, I amrealize determined the pressure to make they’re it back under. to the Suddenly stadium my in four-hourthe allotted slower and the stadium door would have closed on me, leaving me - ing me; they are home and dry by this point. I am struck by how to do so. It’s my gold medal moment but for 50,000 Koreans it is time but by the final lap the elite runners are no longer overtak unable to finish. I make it over the line, the second to last runner Marathon. quiet it is. Except for the patter of my feet, thereannyeong is barely! [hi!]” any to largenoise probably> you can si gjustn up an for amusingnext year's endpyon togy aan ghistoric marathon 2014 with K Mangyongdaeoryo tours by visi tPrizeing –groups Pyongyang of spectators is not known who have for its stopped traffic inand their blaring tracks horns. to watch I get a www.pyongyangmarathon.com kick at these quiet points by shouting out “

MAY 2014 19 s tyle radar LIFE & STYLE

Made in China Leather Love they pick leather swatches, cut patterns discreet cool. A constant force in fashion, and assemble beautifully unique bags, theFor minimalistsome, minimalism trend has is thebeen final humming word in rucksacks and accessories. away determinedly in the background for Following an aesthetic that owes a years, quietly semaphoring the concept of debt to the Muji-inspired approach to serious, clean style. design, each tote is crafted in soft light Here in Beijing, Li + U Workshop – brown or black tanned leather, boasting run by a husband-and-wife duo with a minimal lines and sleek, geometric shapes. passion for undecorated tailoring and Prices start at RMB35 for delicate key precision-cut objects – has been chan- rings, while quirky, animal-shaped coin neling the minimal mood with a range of holders and wallets range from RMB98 to leather products that carry the tag ‘Made RMB168. Bags, which span clutches, mes- in Beijing.’ This inspiring edit of subtle, senger totes, shoppers and rucksacks, are chic and dynamic items are handmade in priced RMB860-4,680. the couple’s open studio in Dashilar. Here, > 82 Yangmeizhu Xiejie, Xicheng customers can catch the pair in action as 西城区杨梅竹斜街39号 (qoqolook.taobao.com)

Style Secrets Georgette, Fashion Designer

What kind of women do you we still only have a couple of design for? styles and aesthetics that seem I aim to cater to well-educated, to resonate with the local mar- well-traveled, independent ket. People like similar things; women. A woman who knows they’re wary about designs that what she wants. are too edgy or weird. There isn’t much differentiation in How would you describe your terms of garments and trends. own style? But then again, that takes time. Indeterminate. When I was in Designers have to train con- London I used to go a bit crazy sumers, and consumers have to with what I wore – you know, keep exploring on their own as as a fashion student you tend well. to try making a statement with your clothes. But since start- Any fellow Chinese designers ing Georgette, I’ve toned down whose work you admire? the bold stylings somewhat. Chictopia, Xander Zhou, Masha When you’re constantly work- Ma and Rico Au. I really enjoy ing on your own collections and and respect their work. designing clothes, all you want What inspires you? is to be comfortable. I often just

a ne ll i Everything! From friends and

ss grab the easiest, frill-free thing family to architecture, child- in my closet. hood memories and random noemi ca This year marked Georgette’s thoughts. I’d say life is my main catwalk debut at China Fash- source of inspiration. by photo ion Week. What did you make > To visit Georgette’s showroom, call of it? Tell us a little bit about your that of starting my own label, 8595 0257 or email georgette.qg@gmail. China Fashion Week gave me background. which I did once I moved back com (www.la-georgette.com) really good support. I met quite I’m originally from Gulangyu, to China. I launched Georgette – a few local buyers and stirred off the coast of Xiamen, but I named after myself – in 2012. some attention. It was a very moved to the UK when I was 14. Your brand aesthetic in three positive experience. I graduated in textile design at words. the London College of Fashion What are your thoughts on a ne ll i

Interesting, high quality – let’s ss while training at Luella and China’s fashion scene? make it count as one word shall Jasmine de Milo, and then I think the industry is still we? – and semi-luxury [ED: went on to work for Alexander very much in its infancy here. that’s four]. McQueen. The idea was always Compared to other countries, PHOTOS BY NOEMI ca BY PHOTOS

20 MAY 2014 Edited by Marianna Cerini / [email protected]

Under the lens The Hat Fairy That would be Wang Shouying, a lady whose Weibo account “Wang Shouying is a Fairy” recently rocketed to overnight stardom after she started posting pictures of her seriously odd- ball fashion designs, including a dress made of pads-appliqué, a top crafted out of plastic bags and bizarre headpieces featuring precariously- balanced plant pots, synthetic wrappings and foil. The eccentric creations seem to have found quite a few fans online, with many praising Wang for her “indescribable sense of abstract beauty.” Her account now has close to 30,000 followers. She sure ain’t Philip Treacy but hey, that’s quite a lot of recognition for clothes and caps made of garbage. Hats off to that.

overheard Covet “A&F is just another sign Fast Fashion McDonald’s has never inspired much in that unwanted rubbish the way of style, but this year a few luxury brands are begging shoppers to take brands with nowhere else another look. From Chanel’s latest fall/ winter show in a phoney supermarket to Moschino’s models dressed like MCD’s to go come to China as a employees and Charlotte Olympia’s Chinese takeaway-inspired bags, junk last resort. China, don’t save food is all the rage this season. With catwalks turning burgers and chocolate bars into the height of chic, this could A&F. It‘s just not worth it” be one of the hottest trends to be sporting next season. Nonsense? Maybe. But forget the silliness of it all for a moment and look at these Asos iPhone 5 covers – a cheaper alternative to the designers’ versions of fast food fashion. Aren’t they a hoot? Don’t they scream ‘junk chic’ to you? Yes. Yes they do. Best paired with a real Happy Meal. RMB138. > www.asos.cn

Wacky Ride Ah, spring! That time of the year when the days get longer, moods become chirpier and closets get injected with a good An angry Internet user on the opening of Abercrombie & Fitch in dose of color. ‘Tis the season to dare. And where better to inject in China. that sense of daring than on your commute to work? This ShanghaiThe arrival last month, of the thepreppy first brand store ofknown the American for, among label other to launchthings, helmet (because taxis are strictly a winter thing) by French- its conventional (some would say overpriced) clothes, racy ads, born, London-based graphic designer Camille Walala has topless male staff and aversion to ‘uncool’ people of any kind (read: been created exclusively for Lane Crawford as part of the anyone who isn’t tall, slim and with a six-pack/long lush hair) has retailer’s Global Traveler series, which includes a bunch of sparked rage across the Chinese web. seriously hip getaway essentials. It’s whimsical, joyous and Sadly for those indignant commentators – and that includes attention-grabbing; a little piece of pop art cool to match us – the retailer has announced plans to open over 100 new stores the sunny days outside. RMB5,000. under its A&F and Hollister brands across the country within the > lane crawford, 2 Jinchengfang Jie, Xicheng 西城区金城纺街2号 next decade. Expect sightings of these hunky male models in a (6622 0808, www.lanecrawford.com.cn) neighborhood near you soon.

MAY 2014 21 LIFE & STYLE « fashion

Primary Circle MeDusa hard clutch, RMB999. Eye-popping Hues to Brush up the Wardrobe > www.feilook.com

BY Marianna Cerini

Mosquitoes and moisture are in the air – it’s official: summer is here. In Beijing fashion news, that

COS means one thing: time to ditch the sad-looking sweaters and hit the crayon box with bold garments, pri- shirt mary hues and vivid neon accessories.

- Whether worn head-to-toe or with eye-popping style details, striking shades are the easiest way to dress, color yourself rad, brighten your fashion mood and ground your closet. Taking it back to grade school RMB490. art class, here are some of the best and brightest tints for your wardrobe.

Le Specs Celia B CraigxKari Ikenna > www.feilook.com roundabout, RMB999. >necklace, www.en.zooq.com RMB380.

> www.anyshopstyle.cn TwS playsuit, RMB969. Pull & Bear

> www.pullandbear.com leather Finders Keepers sandals, RMB199.

> www.en.zooq.com paper ships skirt, RMB854.

H&M Topshop Zara > www.hm.com T-bar satin top, RMB149. > www.topshop.com > www.zara.cn frayed structured sandals, RMB550. jacket, RMB499.

22 MAY 2014 fashion » LIFE & STYLE

Vans Authentic plimsolls, RMB564.90. > www.asos.com

Ross & Brown Milano sunglasses, RMB790. > rossandbrown.com

GAP t-shirt, RMB149. > www.gap.cn

Ted Baker tie, RMB719. > Parkview Green, 9, Dongdaqiao lu, chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号 (8561 7531)

Uniqlo polo, RMB149. > www.uniqlo.cn

Ted Baker satchel bag, RMB2,599. > Parkview Green, 9, Dongdaqiao lu, chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号 (8561 7531) Opening Ceremony Oxford shoes, RMB2,350. > www.shop.projectaegis.com

Zara Man chinos, RMB499. > www.zara.cn

Zara Man bomber jacket, RMB699. > www.zara.cn

H&M chino shorts, RMB199. > www.hm.com

MAY 2014 23 LIFE & STYLE « lead story Saving Face Holding a Mirror to China’s Beauty Boom by Marianna Cerini

“You don’t see anything like this anywhere else in the world. Consumers perceive beauty purchases as investments in their career, private life and social success”

construct that runs deep within Chinese a major asset to their persona. Women worker Wang Yan wakes up at 5.30am to culture and relies on a person’s surface want to transform, while men are not as giveEvery herself morning, enough 24-year-old time to complete Beijing office her interested in looking different as they are daily beauty regime before her journey to is an important industry driver. White- in looking perfect.” work three hours later. Like many young collarappearances women to alone reflect spend his oran heraverage status, of 30 - women her age in China, Wang invests a percent of their total income on cosmetic less and healthy image often only extends treatments and products. Men are not far fromInterestingly, the neck up. suchChinese obsession shoppers for aren’t a flaw cosmetics. It’s a trend that has helped propel - as interested in body products – preserving thesignificant country’s amount beauty of industry time and to money record in monitor, the grooming sector – the second one’s pale skin by layering on clothes, even largestbehind. worldwide According toafter research South Koreafirm Euro – in summertime, is still common. USD25.9 billion on beauty products, making has seen an annual growth of 29 percent Facial skin care forms the most popular itprofits. the country’s Last year, fourth Chinese largest consumers sector for spent between 2009 and 2014, compared to 5.7 sector among the local market. Whitening discretionary expenditure. Only houses, percent in North America and 7.9 percent products are the nation’s highest sellers, cars and travel rank higher. in Europe. In a recent survey by consumer followed closely by new-fangled, China- “In China, your face really is your card - centric hydration products – which now to the world,” says Joanna Hutchins, former ping 73 percent of Chinese men in China’s represent almost one-third of all facial Unilever Global Brand Director for Skin leadingresearch cities firm believeKantar thatWorldpanel, looking gooda whop is moisturizer sales in China. It is, quite Care at Pond’s and current Managing Direc- essential for success with both women and literally, all about face. tor of Dragon Rouge, a global brand consul- work. A trip to Sephora on Shanghai’s Nanjing tancy that counts almost 30 beauty brands As Chinese GDP continues to grow, Xi Lu – the French company’s largest store among its global clientele. “And that’s the so does the local appetite for skin care worldwide – on a sunny Sunday afternoon case for both men and women. products, fragrances and men’s cosmetics. The way you look, the quality of your “You don’t see anything like that anywhere packed with young, style-savvy women skin, whether you appear tired or stressed else in the world,” says Hutchins. helps confirm this theory. The place is – those have all become concerns of para- “Consumers perceive beauty purchases as makeup removers, serums, blemish balm mount importance to the Chinese middle investments in their career, private life and (BB)toting cream baskets and filled face withmasks. moisturizers, class.” This concept of mianzi (face), a social social success. They consider appearances “Protecting my skin from the sun is quite important to me,” says 25-year-old Li Haitong, as she browses the store’s selection of pricey, colorfully-packaged balms. “I like to keep it hydrated and natural-looking. Hanskin BB Cream is great for that, but I also use a lot of Laneige products.” Cost, she says, is not an issue. “As long as I can be assured of the quality of the brand, then I’m happy to spend the money.” Both Laneige and BB Cream are Korean companies. In China, they are household names – no doubt due to their connection to South Korea’s hugely successful pop culture wave, the so-called hallyu, which drives

Riding on the Korean soap opera and K-popSeoul's crazes, growing these influence beauty across brands Asia. from the Land of the Morning Calm and further a ne ll i ss Korean celebrity ambassadors such as ac- afield,tress Song have Hye-kyo, adopted singerperfectly-groomed Yoona and male entertainer Kim Hyun-joong to advertise PHOTO BY NOEMI ca BY PHOTO

24 MAY 2014 lead story » LIFE & STYLE

MAY 2014 25 LIFE & STYLE « lead story

products in China. In the process, they have business in the six years leading up to 2012. principles or natural therapies. According also taken market share away from estab- Most importantly, as product ranges to market research company Mintel, this lished western players. expand, shoppers are no longer interested addresses the wishes of 37 percent of the “Korean cosmetic companies are shap- in paying premium prices for brands that market. It’s no surprise that home players ing an aspirational idea of beauty through are not necessarily the very best in terms are doing so well. clever, celeb-centered advertising that of quality. And while many western com- In addition to the cultural and historical really resonates with the local market,” ties binding Chinese consumers to TCM- says Hutchins. “If you had walked into any have been quick to keep up. “I prefer Ko- based remedies, natural alternatives are department store just a few years ago, you paniesrean brands,” have missed says recent this shift, graduate Korean Wang firms seen as less toxic than their chemically- would have seen lower-end brands like Yan. “They are ahead of the trends and use inclined cousins, a selling point for savvy better technology. Whereas western brands consumers who have grown up confronted shelves. Now, they are all being pushed out are developed for western faces, Korean by a barrage of product safety scandals. toOlay, make Lancôme, space for Nivea high-end or Pond’s Korean filling prod up- the products are developed especially for Asian “There’s been a tremendous change ucts. The whole retail scene is changing.” skin tones.” over the last three years,” notes Hutchins. At the end of December, US beauty Showing sensitivity to Asian beauty habits and an understanding of Mainland China. One week later, French giant L’Oréal, consumers’ concerns, Chinese companies beauty.“In Asia, It for used the to first be alltime, about Europe the West and thefirm world’s Revlon largest announced cosmetics it would company pull out and of like Herborist and Inoherb have also found America have had very little influence on China market leader, joined its rival by increasing popularity within the sector looking up to itself and its own culture, halting sales of its Garnier beauty and hair asinfluencing there’s a fundamentalthe East… now belief the Eastthat isAsian - largest domestic brands in the skin care skin is different from western skin. Next, monitor, both Procter & Gamble and Avon sector– the two – often firms opting are the for first a more and expansivesecond the continent will be telling the rest of the haveproducts also inlost the market PRC. According share in the to Euroskin care approach to beauty that integrates TCM world about beauty trends.”

26 MAY 2014 lead story » LIFE & STYLE

China’s beauty market is also molding market’s fastest-growing areas, with very its very own traits and identity via online ”In Asia, for the first promising development prospects.” - At the same time, recent news that the cent of all sales in the country, often offer- time, Europe and China Food and Drug Administration will ingretailers. a wide E-platforms range of brands account at big for discounts 20 per loosen its regulations surrounding animal – which, again, takes a toll on foreign rivals. America have had testing for cosmetics from June 2014 is According to Mintel analyst Chen likely to stir new interest among a number Wenwen, the key to long-lasting success lies very little influence on of beauty brands previously blocked from the Chinese market entirely, pushing the branding. beauty“ sector to increasingly competitive levels. in the“The right beauty balance retailing of online market and offlinecontinues to perform strongly, but in order to increase monitor, becoming cult beauty products in is looking to win a bigger slice of China’s expansion, integrating both online and the global market. beauty“Every market major pie,” player says in Hutchins. the industry “The Face masks – products still relatively country may not be the most trend-setting niche abroad but tremendously popular in memorableoffline channels in-store becomes shopping a must,” experiences, she says. China – have also entered the radar of beau- leading when it comes to customer needs and“Affluent that remains consumers essential are still in longingthe long-run.” for ty purveyors worldwide. Shortly after an- andin terms development. of products yet, but it’s definitely Meanwhile, there are even some Asian nouncing its exit from China, L’Oréal went “The Chinese want better products and products that have been making headway on to acquire Magic Holdings International, that’s driving new retail strategies and in the western beauty world. Having de- a Hong Kong-listed cosmetics producer and marketing messages from all companies China’s largest facial mask company, for involved – both western and Asian. If some- creams have seen growth rates of around USD840 million, saying in its press release: one is shaping the sector in that respect, buted in both the US and Europe in 2011, -BB “facial masks are one of China’s beauty that’s the Chinese consumer.”

30 percent in the West according to Euro

MAY 2014 27 LIFE & STYLE « arrivals Scene & Heard By Marianna Cerini

Celia B The latest collection from Celia B, TwS Shanghai’s queen of crochet, prints and color, is a joy to the eyes. Called “L’ete Playing with graphic Indien,” the line ranges from dresses and silhouettes and clever tailoring, Twisted Sisters handmade in Morocco. It offers a bold – aka TwS – is an edgy, up- departureseparates to from accessories winter’s andsubdued raffia moods shoes and-coming brand that in terms of palette and pattern – both has recently caught our of which are exuberant to the extreme. attention. Toronto-raised, Balancing loud, graphic textiles and cat- Hong Kong-based founder inspired motifs (always a winner in our and designer Maria Mak book), these garments are revealing and is a strong advocate of urgent, boasting a pop art, almost tribal simple designs with a aesthetic. The Spanish designer obviously had a lot of fun putting the collection cool. This is something together, and looking at every item it’s clear the label achieves through its use ofhint sleek of grungy and sophisticated yet refined that this is fashion springing from real life fabrics – think ultra luxe wools and silks – crafted in an and real experiences, with a joyous teenage array of idiosyncratic hues and frill-free cuts and shapes. immediacy. Summer, in a super stylish The spring/summer collection, titled “Don’t Sweat It,” offers nutshell. a riot of layered, clashing, bright pieces that are versatile > www.celiab.com and visually striking. Spanning jackets, dresses, tops and rompers (RMB899-1,699), as well as bold accessories and clutches (RMB899-939), the entire line is an eclectic mix of well-worn, breezy fabrics and fun separates set to turn your Zhu & Mao summer wardrobe into a work of art. Another month, another cutesy ‘indie’ shop on > www.anyshopstyle.cn Beiluoguxiang. If you think this alley – and the whole of Gulou in general – is reaching saturation point for artsiness, well, you might be wrong. There are still plenty of former fruit shops and convenience stores that can be turned into Vans by Kiroic the next handicraft-meets-hipster store for you to peruse. Since launching in Shanghai in 2006, high fashion foot- This time around it’s Zhu & Mao, a closet-sized venture wear brand Kiroic has created a lot of noise among the selling gift items, adorable home furnishings and tiny industry’s upper echelons for its stylized, cutting-edge decorative accessories you wouldn’t think you’d need until sandal/sneaker hybrids that combine Western styles you enter the shop and, suddenly, you inexplicably do. The with a futuristic aesthetic of deconstructed patterns and formula is not at all new but we’ll give credit ergonomics. For the second year running, the label has to the folks who run this boutique for a well- teamed up with American shoe brand Vans, for a rave- selected range of products that never verge worthy collaboration, available at the ever-so-hip Dong on the excessively sweet. What’s annoying is Liang Studio. Blending Rorschach tests and traditional the lack of original, standout pieces across the Chinese ink-painting, these special editions consist of store and in the other similar businesses in three colorways of the classic Vans the area. But then again, if that’s what custom- Era style. Featuring vibrant pat- ers want (the place was jam-packed when we terns digitally printed onto smooth visited), then that’s leather uppers, each pair of shoes what customers get. is balanced with blank tongues If it ain’t broke don’t and heels, and accented with light brown trims and laces. With only > 95 Beiluoguxiang, fix it, right? 250 pairs produced, the shoes are Dongcheng a China-exclusive release, so you’d 东城区北锣鼓巷95号 better get your hands on them now. RMB1,080. a ne ll i

> Shop 102, Bldg 2, central Park, 6 ss chaoyangmenwai Dajie chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际2号楼102商铺 (8404 7648) PHOTO BY NOEMI ca BY PHOTO

28 MAY 2014 portrait of China » LIFE & STYLE Wu in T r ont r ib u to al c Addition al a ne ll i / ss a N oemi C by Ce r ini / P hoto Mar i a nn y B

Liu Xianghan, 28 Give us a style tip. It depends on what you like, really. There are so many choices when it comes to style. You have to know

yourself first – what worksCould on you you share and what a funny doesn’t story – then with roll us? with it. That’s what I do. The Monuments Men and oh boy, was it boring! I fell asleep and started snoring pretty loudly, apparently, which is kind of awkward but also really funny Any story?to me –Let though me think… I’m not I wentsure myto watch fellow this theater-goers film recently, would agree. Honestly, I just couldn’t help it. Also, I’m getting interviewed to be in your magazine. That’s kinda funny, isn’t it?

MAY 2014 29 LIFE & STYLE « feature

midnight feasting Savoring Taipei’s Food Scene

BY Marina Garvey Birch & Marianna Cerini

30 MAY 2014 feature » LIFE & STYLE

Nestled in a river valley and edged by low, tranquil mountains covered in tea shrubs, Taipei is a city of many facets; an eclectic mix of skyscrapers and temples, history and green spaces, high tech hubs and teeming markets. Foremost, it is home to some of Asia’s most tan- talizing cuisine, as a 48-hour trip to the capital reveals.

Walking down a brightly-lit alley in may sound, they actually make for some renditions of this staple dish without the central Taipei, plump, juicy mangoes, rough edges of the night markets; the tangy pineapples and earthy watermelons Besides the metropolis’ main landmarks immediately catch the eye. Next to them, a –excellent Chiang Kai-shekstomach-fillers. Memorial Hall, Longshan noodles nestled in a dark, spicy broth and stall selling oyster omelettes and guangbao Temple and Taipei 101 – it’s easy to make toppedfinal result with being heaps a ofbalanced beef shanks, affair assortedof thick market-hopping the main purpose of a vegetables and pickled greens. hearty chunks of braised pork belly, pickled trip. Raohe, one of the oldest night markets Similarly, ba-wan and their delicious Chinese- steamed cabbage bun sandwiches and powdered filled peanuts with – in Taipei and our next destination after entice with an alluring Shilin, has one at most food courts, where you’re allowed whiff of meat, seafood, of the best tofillings pile up of aspork much and food veggies on your can betray found as you and griddle-cooked “Bewildering in their food selections like, with each dish incurring a fairly small vegetables, making around. Here we charge. The court under Taipei 101 is the it impossible not to range of dishes, night indulge on salt- biggest and busiest; take a seat on one of succumb to temptation. crusted kebabs - And why shouldn’t we? markets are always and pressed-to- terous atmosphere as a motley assortment We are in Shilin Market, order sugarcane theof Taipei’s fixed metal locals tables stop inand for soak a tea, in a the chat bois and one of the island’s most on the must-do list” a snack. famous night markets, off our tour with Ay-chung Mee Suah, not far from Huaxi and food – mouth-watering, colorful, two remarkably large portionsnectar, of finishing“mango night market, is a perfect stop to taste oya decadent food – is everywhere. avalanche” and “strawberry blizzard” – misua. The small restaurant only serves - piles of shaved ice heaped with juicy fruit, this dish in two sizes: small and large. ring feature of Taipei. It’sThis, hard we’re to walksoon tomore find than out, a is few a recur edge off the tropical heat. Huaxi is a more oysters and pig intestines, topped with a paces down the street without being lured bizarreflavorings experience, and condensed with food milk items that takelike the Vermicelli floats in a thickened soup with by peddlers carrying delectable snacks, snake – served plain or in soup – on offer of black vinegar and some minced garlic. unremarkable eateries offering bowlfuls of alongside a good number of sex toys and Perfection.dash of cilantro and finished off with a swig chewy noodles and restaurants promising dubious DVDs. Taiwanese cuisine is also heavily – and delivering – tales of palatable eats we For a better insight into Taiwan’s local - will recount long after our visit. culinary style, a visit to Ningxia night mar- ing. Japan occupied Taiwan for 50 years Bewildering in their range of dishes, ket is also mandatory. Moseying lazily from influenced by Japanese and fusion cook night markets should be on anyone’s must- one stall to the next, we munch on moreish and its legacy left a mark on the nation’s do list when traveling to the city. Wandering pan-fried pork buns and a delightfully oily tasteduring buds. the firstOur lasthalf mealof the in 20th the citycentury is at the is a pastime that suits Taipei well, and Addiction Aquatic Development, Taipei’s these culinary hubs are perfect places to do with shallots, glossy strips of seasoned bok - just that, with their maze-like alleyways, choyegg-and-flour-based and fried pork slithers, pancake handed showered to us house space with a standing sushi bar and vibrant stalls and makeshift tables, each fresh from the griddle. Washing it all down Japaneseformer fish grill. market The menuand now is overwhelming, a chic ware selling different xiao chi (small eats). with some good old bubble tea – Taiwan’s the quality of the seafood on par with Tokyo An inclination for adventure is essential; ubiquitous drink – it’s not long before our or Kyoto. the island’s food is a mash-up of aboriginal, quest for yet more delicacies resumes. Sated yet foraging for one last bite Hakka and Min cuisine with a bias towards Signs for niu rou mian – the island’s ultimate comfort food – are easy to spot, walk down a nearby night market unveils even for the Mandarin-illiterate. A bowl of it moreafter ourdumplings, dinner of sweet raw fishtreats and and saké, soupy a oftenthe refined unexpected. cooking Snacks of Shanghai like stinky and eastern tofu, can be obtained at virtually any restaurant concoctions. Resistance is pointless. If pigs’China, blood meaning rice pudding,flavors are and bold, ribs diverse steamed and there’s one thing we’ve learned from this in medicinal herbs are regular features of chain to introduce upmarket Taiwanese trip, that would be it. And a piece of advice: any street market – unappetizing as they folkaround cooking, town. Shin Try theYeh. first It does international delicious come hungry.

MAY 2014 31 Serviced & virtual Offices Is it Time to Sack Your Office Manager? Senior Manager, Michaela Julian

Most people in Beijing will have come into contact with the idea ally could cost in excess of RMB100,000.” It’s an appealing notion of a serviced apartment – a few of our readers (we’re looking at for new businesses, especially when you factor in the types of ad- you Jackie Chan) may even be privileged enough to live in one. ditional overheads associated with getting started in Beijing.

features intended to allow businesses to begin running their busi- onlyBut the much, idea much of a serviced better. Servcorp, office is somewhat an Australian less company familiar. Fororiginally the ness“Servcorp-serviced straight away. This offices includes come a professional, complete with often a range landmark, of basic foundeduninitiated, in 1978, serviced is both offices the originatorare a lot like of regular,and world everyday leader in offices, guests, spacious meeting facilities, handling incoming and outgoing mail,business a local address business that telephone can be readily line and identified fully stocked by visiting lounge clients areas. or serviced office space. The company allows small and medium-sized What’s more there is service from bilingual receptionists,” explains Broadbusinesses Street to in acquire London, actual for a office fraction space of the in theregular some price. of the world’s Julian. most“It’s desirable actually postcodes a very simple – from concept,” Park Avenue says Michaela in New York Julian, to OldSenior Manager of Servcorp in China, who has just overseen the opening overseeing Servcorp’s rapid growth in the Chinese market. “I of the company’s newest state-of-the-art premises at the Beijing thinkOriginally it’s a very from exciting Austria, time Julian in China has rightspent now the lastfor the three serviced years

especially with the cost of real estate being what it is right now in many,Fortune especially Financial those Center smaller-to-medium tower in the CBD. sized“All major businesses, international- would office industry,” she says. “There is significant room for growth, preferfacing businessesto reduce costs require where central possible, office without space in compromising major cities, but on How, we wonder, do they match up to their competitors? “At quality. We go one step better, we actually improve the quality,” first and second tier cities.” says Julian, from behind a desk in Servcorop’s new Beijing location, looking out over the CBD. ITServcorp, network we with provide 99.98 far percent more thanInternet just uptime, space. We bilingual are a total admin office support,solutions and provider most importantlythat offers world a hassle class free professional experience office, that allows global at Servcorp in a prime location will cost in the region of RMB20,000 our clients to just focus on running their business.” “Sharing space is the future,” she continues. “A serviced office - > www.servcorp.com.cn to RMB35,000 per month, while setting up a similar office individu The New Riviera Life Beside the Hai River, With St Regis' Paul Cunningham

As General Manager of the St Regis Tianjin, Paul Cunningham pre- sides over one of the city’s newest, most instantly recognizable and glamorous landmarks. So, how does it feel to be the face of Tianjin’s newly constructed central business district? “Well, I don’t think I’m the face! At least I hope I’m not!” laughs Cunningham. “But it’s certainly been enjoy- able – it’s a wonderful place and time.” In the wrong hands, the building might easily have become just spot, there’s really nothing like it – our terrace has got to be among another architectural oddity – a giant white elephant, used occa- the very best cocktail spots in China,” he enthuses. “Really, I love it – sionally for business meetings and high-powered political summits, sat back, looking out over the river, with a nice breeze, watching the but under the mindful guidance of Cunningham and the St Regis sun come down over the city. It certainly beats Beijing!” The hotel brand, the giant rectangular attraction has been transformed into also boasts its own cigar and whisky club, as well as an exception- one of Tianjin’s leading hangouts, especially during the summer ally well-stocked wine cellar. time, when the hotel’s popular terrace opens. The relaxed atmosphere of Tianjin, with its tree-lined streets, “I think our location and our building’s unique style has been a has provided a welcome change for Cunningham since relocating from Beijing three years ago. and ambitious as a building of this stature, of course. But then, most “I love Beijing,” he says. “But I think I might love Tianjin more. peoplehuge benefit. will feel People intrigued will always too. The be challenge suspicious is ofmaintaining something the as newdis- It’s a wonderful place. It’s one of those rare Chinese cities that is tinctiveness of the location, while making it feel inclusive and open both full of energy but also exceptionally calm and peaceful – it has too.” this incredible, well-preserved history, beautiful former foreign The hotel’s incomparable location, on the banks of the city’s Hai concessions as well as the most amazing new modern architecture. River, has seen it become an extremely popular draw among locals and Beijing residents looking for a quick weekend escape (Tianjin that.” is only a 30-minute ride from Beijing on the high-speed train). Was >I Tthinkhe St. R iteg reallyis Tianji nis n uniqueo.158 Zha nandg Ziz I’dhon likeg lu, Htoe P thinking dis tourrict, Thotelianjin 3reflects00041, Chi na 天津瑞吉金融街酒店天津和平区张自忠路158号(津塔旁哈密道正对面 5830 9999) that intentional? “The location? Definitely. Our hotel enjoys a great 32 MAY 2014 comedy » LIFE & STYLE Whose Line Is It Anyway? Half Ours, Half Theirs, as it Happens.. by ned kelly Kings of rib-tickling improv, the Whose Line Is It Anyway? crew hit town this month. We decided to test their mirth-making mettle by asking the quartet to complete some, well, lines…

Stephen Frost I’m only going to speak Chinese for the rest of my life… I ate a mandarin at Christmas. I’d rather not marry Angelina Jolie… priest or something. I’m not qualified to marry anyone. I think you need a I fought the law and… Don’t assume it was a bad dream, it might just have been… a good nightmare. eventually got it to look quite nice. Oh, sorry, I thought you said lawn… I love social media, it… In a post-apocalyptic world, I would be… makes me like, poke, send, delete… ahhhhhh, bloody computers! I wish I was born… a foot shorter, then I’d be a bit younger. I’m 6’6” – work it out. bad at spelling. When I see a giant panda… I’ve obviously fallen asleep in a zoo.

Ian Coppinger I can’t wait to breathe the smog in China… it’s cleaner than my bedroom. My recurring nightmare involves… being in my bedroom. Men are better off with Kim Jong-un haircuts because… if you ever commit a crime and there is a line up, then there is a good chance that you might get away with it. Beijing is better than Shanghai because… it’s closer to my house. Irish jokes are unfair because… we don’t get them. I never laugh at horses… they always look so sad, with their big, long faces. Ich bin ein… Is that German for “I am Ian”? If so, I’m happy with that. And with my pants finally off, I told the judge… it’s your turn.

Steve Steen The Sino-US relationship is… A lady is not a lady unless… she lives in Bangkok, then she’s a bloke. ready for a great big selfie. I wouldn’t imitate animals… I’d hurt my back trying to lick my own genitals. If music be the food of love… We have a pair of tickets to The first thing I do in the morning is… have a piss. If I could just make then rosin your bow and have a fiddle. give away. Simply answer the China reminds me of a cross between… Shangri-La, a mystic place, Whose Line Is It Anyway? it to the toilet first… following question: Send answers with the sub- and that most curiously pedantic poetry form – a haiku, five seven ject line ‘Gulou or Sanlitun’ to The Great Wall… five [ED: haiku are Japanese, Steve]. [email protected] by May 18. is ready for some great graffiti.

Andy Smart To be, or not to be… are two of three options we all have. The World Cup is… where I’ll be on my birthday. I’m going to see Taking a taxi in China is the best… they throw in a fair ground ride. Nigeria vs Iran, in Curitiba. In ‘98 I was lucky enough to follow the All men should own a… duck. meeting up with a few of them in Brazil. When in Rome… go with your girlfriend and take her up the Span- Iran team around France. I made friends with the players and I’m miss- ish Steps. The only thing worse than being handcuffed to a radiator is… Another good use of That’s Beijing magazine is… since 1982. Every morning when I look into the mirror I… realize I’ll never play ing San Fermin, in Pamplona! I have run with the bulls 56 times a fly swat. > The Punchline Comedy Club presents Whose line Is It Anyway? earlybird tickets RMb300/ RMb350 on the door; May 21, 8.30pm; Home Plate bbQ (see listings for details) for England – unless it’s Crown Green Bowling.

MAY 2014 33 collage

Transcripted DRUM ROLL “While in Japan I Deafheaven asked my driver Metal has been enjoying an artistic resurgence recently with

to pull over for shoegaze.Deafheaven We leading chat with the frontmancharge. The George San Francisco Clarke about quintet the hasband’s which I saw a forthcomingcultivated a hypnotic Beijing show. sound equal parts black metal, post-rock and What’s a Deafheaven show like? beautiful shrine People can expect a high energy [and a] more visceral approach to the songs. They’ve only gotten stronger. We do our best to recreate [sic]. I was mis- [debut album] Sunbather in a live setting, but have played them so many times that now more improvised moments occur throughout. lead [sic] to think You’ve covered Mogwai. Do you also try to make the audience’s ears bleed like them? the Shrines were To a degree. We generally play at a high volume, but I don’t think only a place of prayer. To any- we’ve reached their heights yet. Sunbather was widely acclaimed and crossed over. Do you one I have offended I am ex- think metal can rule the radio again? I don’t, but that’s only because in the wake of no radio attention, tremely sorry. I love you China other media outlets have stepped up to give aggressive music its and I love you Japan” voice. The band’s had a tumultuous history. How are things now? Justin Bieber offers an apology after he posted a (now deleted) Ins- We are absolutely at our most stable. Our only plan is to tour often tagram of him visiting the controversial Yasukuni Shrine in Japan, and get our music out to the audiences that desire it. which includes the names of 14 Class-A war criminals among its war-dead. How would you say the band has evolved and what can people expect in the future? Not only has Kerry McCoy grown as a guitar player, but he has be- on the shelves come more comfortable as well, which is always very important as a player. We have developed our own style at this point, but there will Just Out be progressions. I don’t want to feel stagnant. > may 9, 9pm-late, rmB100-140. yugong yishan, 3-2 Zhangzizhong lu (100m west of As the Beijing correspondent for the New Yor- Zhangzizhong lu subway station), dongcheng district东城区张自忠路3-2号 (6404 2711, ker, Evan Osnos won awards for his witty yet yoopay.cn/event/deafheavenbj) thoughtful observations on modern China. Age of Ambition: Chasing Fortune, Truth & Faith in the New China follows the lives of everyday people across the Mainland, revealing the paradoxes beneath the country’s current boom.

Wonderfully eclectic Australian author Linda Jaivin (Eat Me) launches Reaktion’s new Cityscopes series with her look at Beijing. It’s one-third city history, one-third short essays and one-third city guide. Jaivin traces Beijing’s history beginning with Peking Man while her punchy essays use iconic sites like the Bird’s Nest as a jump-off point for thoughtful analysis of the capital city’s modernization.

arguably China’s most successful contemporary Having sold over five million books, Mai Jia is writers, his acclaimed debut Decoded ofauthor. his works One of to the be translatedcountry’s first into spy-thriller English. The book follows cryptography savant Rong is theJinzhen, first who enters the shadowy world of espionage after being recruited by ultra-secret force Unit 701.

34 MAY 2014 canvassed Spring Party

By Adam dehmohseni

21-year-old pedicurist, A Touch of Sin was clearedthe murder for publicof a local screening business here official in the by Chi a - nese Mainland but eventually succumbed to the censors’ rule. , Be iji ng t

A r Nonetheless, there is still a host of spring artwork to see in Beijing this year, including Wu Jian’an’s show at Chambers Transformation (ends May 14). His

y of C ham b er s Fi ne of y work refrains from direct social criticism s t e whileFine Art, remaining within the creative remit of our Wu Jian'an, "Nirvana of the White Ape"

Image C Image is a professor of experimental art). Inspired bythe the Central classic Academy Chinese of novel Fine JourneyArts (where to the Wu Spring is a time for dancing. In the Chinese art world, spring has West, Wu Jian’an employs a variety of media During the Communist Party’s decade also been a time for going “down to the including wax and watercolors re-interpret in Yan’an (1937-1947), weekly dance parties countryside,” in response to the former the legend in his own idiosyncratic way. The were a reprieve from war and politics. Chairman’s call to “understand [the] people piece is centered around the rebirth of the Perhaps in response to trends of “bourgeois and know them well.” Every year, thousands Monkey King depicted on canvas, which is decadence” among the dancing intellectuals of art students around China leave the reminiscent of classical Buddhist art and in party ranks, Mao Zedong gave the “Yan’an academy studios to paint life in rural medieval European tapestry. Talks on Literature and Art” in May 1942. villages, returning to school after a few The explosive energy of the exhibition weeks with portraits of farmers and bucolic (the Chinese name of which translates Movement, the talks aimed to ensure “that landscapes. Armed with the rigorous skill as “Nirvana of the White Ape”) resounds Part of the larger Yan’an Rectification of Soviet art training, such dedication to throughout the space, which is reimagined revolutionary machine as a component realism is not a product of Enlightenment as portraits in 1000 Fairies Painted by part.”literature and art fit well into the whole classicism and science as it was in Europe, Qingdao Art Students, or abstract physical To mark the 70th anniversary of the but rather a moral imperative to depict and structures in 792 Overlapping Colored Balls. talks in 2012, the Writer's Publishing House become one with "the masses.” Most impressive is Monkey Face Composed of published a work entitled One Hundred A contemporary work resulting from 72 Tigers, a massive scroll of Chinese artisan Writers’ and Artists’ Hand-Copied Commemo- a springtime reconnection with everyday painting that looms over the spectator. rative Edition of the ‘Yan’an Talks,’ featur- people is Jia Zhangke’s cinematic explora- There have been 72 springtimes since ing meticulously transcribed text from tion of workers and peasants in A Touch of the “Yan’an Talks,” yet as the latest batch contemporary Chinese authors including Sin, which won the Best Screenplay award seasonal art rolls around, only two things Mo Yan, Su Tong and Han Shaogong. Such a at Cannes last May. Loosely based on four have remained certain throughout: artists move from a state publisher suggests that ‘incidents’ virally shared on (and subse- aren’t good at taking orders and decadent, the party line on literature and art hasn't bourgeois intellectuals can’t be stopped changed much since Yan’an. from dancing. quently forgotten by) Chinese social media, such as worker suicides at Foxconn and Gossip Manic Monday Depp-lomacy It seemed like a fairytale romance when actors Wen Zhang the mainland, promoting new thrill- and Ma Yili tied the knot in erJohnny Transcendence Depp made his first trip to 2008. But things tend to fall stir, he revealed his engagement apart if prince charming slips to actress Amber .Heard, Causing showed quite a his scepter to another prin- off his I Ching-inspired tattoo and cess, in this case Yao Di, Wen’s appeared on reality show Chinese co-star from TV show Naked Dream, where he pledged to pick Marriage one teen participant from the show on Sina Weibo, posted on March and offer training opportunities in 31, smashed. His records official –apology being re- Hollywood. Oh Tonto, you are a true posted over one million times. kemosabe.

MAY 2014 35 ARTS « underground the drop

Beats, Blops and Breaks by alex taggart

This month, we say "to hell" with nightclubs! the BPM range with hip-hop, trap, future bass and footwork, while Well, not exactly. But it’s sunny outside and there’s ever so much Chole keeps it heavy with a roughneck dubstep and drum ‘n’ bass electronic music to listen to. In fact, every Beijing DJ worth their selection. Both are black belts in bass-slinging. naughty-salt will be making an appearance at one of the festivals in May, so this month’s column is dedicated to picking out the best of Vurado Bokoda are geared up to twist your minds with early sets at the SyndicateOn the freakier stage, side, and thosethings darn always skweee get dirty tweekers when FløøødDJ BB Deng and is on the decks at the electro stage (I’m pretty sure I saw people whichINTRO at and the the time Great of going Wall toMusic press Festival. was still scheduled to be at literally having sex on top of the speakers last year). First off, your guide to the local talent on display at INTRO, Of course, be sure to catch Beijing dance music institutions like double-check when you get there. head organizer Weng Weng, Yen founder Mickey Zhang, Syndicate ShougangINTRO (Capital is your bestSteel opportunity Factory) on ofMay the 24. year Set to times check may out vary, the new, so up-and-coming talent who’ve been dragging down the average age Clir. in Beijing’s DJ circles. In terms of young DJs, a few deserve special headMan, honcho the That’sDJ Blackie and pouter-in-chief XLF. Oh, and…me, DJ mention… Then, the following weekend, onto the million-dollar boys’ club: editors are definitely gonna take that out. who the hell is paying for these DJs to come to China? Srsly. Anyway, Young DJs Funn and Diva Li, while both Lantern residents (and ifthe you Great are Wallone of Music those Festival. people who I’ve saidlikes it big, before, big trance I’ll say (because it again: sound.therefore DJ andboth producer partial to Diva’s a four-to-the-floor deep yet inescapably kick drum slinky pattern), house if you’re going to do trance, you might as well do it big, big), then bring two very different but equally fresh outlooks on the Lantern don’t miss the headliner, Armin van Buuren. Looks like his (maybe) aesthetic to ensure maximum danceability with a broad range of arch-nemesis Paul van Dyk isn’t coming anymore, which means textures.and techno sensibilities contrast with Funn’s hypnotic minimal EDM darling and Paris Hilton enthusiast Afrojack moves up the bill. On the grimier side of things, check out young Beijingers Score one for him! And us, amiright folks? Shackup and Chole on the Syndicate Bass Stage – Shackup spans Bonaparte Napoleon Complex by Sarah Stern Meyers

After an insane tour last year, the Berlin-based indie-dancepunk group Bonaparte are back to party in the PRC. Described by a German newspaper as “a multi-ethnic group ruled by the party Kaiser” the group knows how to get down. As frontman Mr. Bonaparte sings: “You know Tolstoy, I know Playboy; You know politics, I know party chicks.” We spoke to the poet himself ahead of what else he knows. the band's appearance at the Midi Music Festival to find out exactly concert will always be remembered. Our good friend [event pro- On their hedonistic reputation... moter] Dan Nagels took us out for freshly-made noodles and it was Ah, it’s just something someone wrote on Wikipedia. Someone a wild ride. I would love to see Shanghai by day. writes something and everyone copies it. It’s one of the evil sides On their upcoming show... of the Internet that it is not only information that travels but half- We will play about half of the songs from the last tour and half of truths too. the new album. You’ll get to hear the new album before it’s actually On their lineup... out anywhere in the world, so playing China will be like a little I started out playing alone then we evolved through many differ- world premiere. It will be out at the end of May and the new songs ent forms and sizes - two drums, a drum machine, many dancers, have titles like “Into the Wild,” “I Wanna Sue Someone,” “Out of Control,” “Two Girls” and “Riot in my Head.” It will be fun. We hope guitar and vocals, Muratli on drums, and Uri on piano, synthesizers that you dance. andno dancers, playing fire.bass On pedals the music with his side feet. we Cleaare a and trio. Kate Mr. Bonaparteperform [along on - On their aftershow plans... side the musicians]. Since we only have one night, we hope that some of our friends On their tour through China last year... will come out and see the show and then take us out for the most We loved it. We traveled through China for a few weeks playing in amazing local dinner ever. If none of our friends show up, we hope Beijing, Chengdu, Wuhan, Shenzhen, Guangzhou, Hangzhou and to make new friends. Come, because today is what our children will call the good old days! Britain in its architecture, with a skyline that tops Manhattan, yet > may 3, 7.40-8.20pm; 120rmB for one day (pre-sale), 300rmB for three days (pre- itXi’an was among totally others. Chinese Shanghai at the same has timea nostalgic which touchwas such of France a weird or sale), 150rmB at the gate; mini-Song Stage at midi festival, Sujiatuo Village, Wen- mixture in our heads. The audience shared the mixture and that quanlu, haidian 海淀区苏家坨镇南安河路1号

36 MAY 2014 music » ARTS

The way of the Tortoise Two Decades of Instrumental Rock

BY Andrew Chin

Twenty years after releasing their self-titled debut album, instru- been named by Pitchfork, Rough Guide and Spin Magazine as one of mental rock group Tortoise will be making their Mainland debut. the best 100 albums of the 1990s. Amazingly, given that it’s nearly “It’s hard to believe it’s been that long,” exclaims drummer and 21 minutes long, the opening track “Djed” remains a fan favorite. producer John McEntire. “It’s exciting that the musical landscape The group performed it in its entirety at the All Tomorrow’s contains a whole lot more diversity than it did 20 years ago but I’m Party festival in 2008 and 2010 McEntire expresses surprise at the glad we started when we did. Everything is so saturated right now disc’s longevity, admitting “it’s one of our best but my favorite is probably Beacons of Ancestorship.” - The 2009 disc is the group’s latest and only their second album thathend. it’s At difficult the height to getof the yourself guitar-driven heard.” grunge era, the group in the past ten years. With each member having multiple side formedThe inthought Chicago of withTortoise an ear-bleeding being ignored lineup is difficult of three to percuscompre- projects like The Sea and the Cake, and Brokeback, McEntire admits sionists and two bassists. “it’s pretty random how much we get together especially since two Over the course of six albums they’ve widened the parameters of the guys live in L.A. now. We have to plan things carefully.” of indie rock and are often credited as the godfathers of post-rock, a term they utterly despise. through recording their latest opus. Meanwhile Tortoise’s Mainland “Our sound didn’t really develop, it kind of just happened,” fansFans can expectwill be arelieved show that that dips the into group their are entire currently discography. halfway McEntire explains. “A lot of it had to do with the instrumentation, says. “People always comment on the switching instruments thing the group.” but “It’swe’ve quite been a doingmixed it bag so longbut hopefully we don’t evenit all thinkflows aboutwell enough,” it.” he but Theiralso the sophomore chemistry album and influences Millions Now that Living each ofWill us Never brought Die to has > may 17, 9pm; rmB160-200; yugong yishan (see listings for details).

MAY 2014 37 s ERS

Bros. Neon. Molly. Avicii. some-sounding intention to “rage” to the tune of ear- splitting computer-music? An ambitious endeavor, to say electronic dance music (EDM) festivals are the best the least. For some, these are just a few of the reasons why “Last year’s INTRO was a big success,” says DJ Weng large-scale music events forever. Whichever side of Weng, head organizer of INTRO and owner of Gongti’s thisthing ideological since American rift you Apparel. land on, For the others, rise of they’ve the outdoor ruined Lantern club. “But I always have to remember that if electronic music festival is one of the biggest stories in the anything happens, there will be big trouble.” music business this decade, and China has by no means The brainchild of Acupuncture Records, the now- been left behind. disbanded nine-strong team of local DJs and promoters, But while this trend has recently come in for scathing criticism in the West due to the heavy involvement of big Attracting between 6-7,000 ravers with a lineup of business, the resulting increase in corporate sponsor- internationalINTRO was first headline held in DJs 2009, supported in 798 Art by District.locals, it might not have got past the drawing board were it not for a on music, China’s longest-running EDM festival, Beijing’s fortunate coincidence. INTRO,ship and can the be subsequent accused of decline no such in crimes. the importance placed Weng Weng, a former rock guitarist who turned his Now in its sixth year, INTRO has gone from strength hand to DJing around the turn of the century, has been to strength, last year bringing around 5-6,000 people involved in the organization of outdoor Beijing raves (roughly a 60:40 ratio of locals to foreigners, by general since the early 2000s, when Beijing had only a handful consensus) to Shougang, a disused steelworks in west of electronic music fans and a DIY attitude prevailed. Beijing’s Shijingshan District, where the party of the year However, as time went on and the Acupuncture crew proceeded to play out across four stages without a single coalesced into a fully-functioning machine, the rather big-name international DJ in sight. There was plenty to ballsy idea of putting on a festival took shape. drink, minimal security intervention, and enough black “We saw many western festivals on YouTube, like cabs to get everyone home. the Love Parade. I went to the Street Parade [techno Having pulled off such a successful party in spite of festival] in Zurich in 2007, where there were more than an 11th-hour venue change in 2013, Beijing’s ravers await 1 million people in the street. We imagined that we INTRO 2014 (May 24th) with optimism – with almost no complaints arising from last year’s party, we all want to do it. It was my dream,” says Weng Weng. know whether they can pull off the same thing again. couldBut do certain this in practicalitiesChina and finally needed decided to be we addressed. wanted to - without the approval of the Ministry of Culture wouldn’t rT AGGA

T However, considering the behind-the-scenes difficul haveFirstly, been putting smart. on Luckily, an inner the city idea music coincided festival with in Beijing the in- crowdsties involved, of excitable a more ravers pertinent gathering question in the may country’s be: how augural Meet in Beijing, a yearly government-approved

y ALEX y capital,the hell mostdid they with ever the pull ambiguous this off inyet the decidedly first place? unwhole Huge- culture festival. “They told me this was a big, special, BEIJING'S ORIGINAL EDM FESTIVAL RETURNS TO SHOUGANG RETURNS EDM FESTIVAL BEIJING'S ORIGINAL b STEEL AND LA STEEL AND

38 MAY 2014 feature » ARTS

“We don’t bring big names – we want to weren’t trying to educate them, but we wanted to offer them a new show people local DJs at our festival, and lifestyle choice,” says Weng Weng. build the local scene” is populated not just by Euro-American bros in vests printed withBut slogans still they like came.“DROP Fast-forward THE BASS,” but to May also 2013 by rapidly and the growing festival month-long project, mostly for ballet and classical music. So I talked numbers of local hipsters and, encouragingly, the general public. with the organizer from the Ministry of Culture and the Beijing When it comes to INTRO’s future, Weng Weng is optimistic. Government – a friend of mine had helped me to contact them – and After all, Beijing’s electronic music scene has been growing steadily they said ‘OK, you can try it once.’” for the past few years and, as any hedge fund manager will tell you, Next, there was the small matter of police approval. “In China, EDM festivals are the future. the police can stop everything with a single ‘no,’” says Weng Weng. In the West, that logic is dubious. Large-scale EDM festivals like While he gives away few details on this matter, anyone who has Electric Daisy Carnival in Las Vegas (tickets for this year’s event currently fetch upwards of USD500 on eBay, while INTRO costs or other in tow, can safely assume that even after approvals are around RMB200, roughly USD32) are arguably based on the prin- witnessed him at the festival itself, never without some official ciple that as long as the production values are high enough, ravers will have a good time. After all, as long as there’s a 30-foot neon beforegranted, the his event,” job remains he says. a difficult one. “Only in 2011 did this go mushroom on the main stage, music can go hang – most people smoothly.Perhaps In the2009, most final visible confirmation and certainly wasn’t the given most until chronic the day don’t care anyway, right? Weng Weng does not agree. “We don’t bring big names [anymore] hold of alcohol. Ravers want booze, and while INTRO 2011 and – we want to show people local DJs at our festival and build the local 2012problem ran with dangerously Chinese dry,music the festivals 2013 shindig is the difficultyin the steel of factory getting scene. I thought about booking some big DJs this year but I have to

scene.” had plenty of watering holes, both official and unofficialThat’s (the Beijing latter thinkThis about attitude how muchis the realkey tobenefit sustainability. that would After actually six years have offor the thatbeing this magnificent year will beold the dudes same. with coolers full of glimmering tins of INTRO and almost 20 in the Beijing electronic scene, Weng Weng Yanjing.But even We salute with the you, hawkers fine sirs). on Weng board Weng and all assures the necessary per- has built up the contacts, brand recognition and savoir-faire to mits in hand, there’s one other essential ingredient without which keep what is doubtless China’s most successful EDM festival going no festival can survive: people. While Beijing’s rock festival mar- for another year. But it is his reputation as a musical purist that will keep it going for another 20. in 2009, electronic music at the time enjoyed nothing close to the > at the time of going to press InTro's venue was unconﬁrmed though the organizers popularityket was already it has beginning in Beijing totoday. mature by INTRO’s first incarnation anticipate that it will again be held at the Shougang capital Steel factory, Shijingshan. “Electronic music is from the West, and Chinese people don’t really understand its culture or lifestyle. Chinese people still WIN 2 TICKETS, email bjeditor@urbanatomy.com, with the headline ‘INTRO’

think a nightclub is a place with VIP seating and no dancefloor. We MAY 2014 39 ARTS « feature

the circus comes to town The Groundbreaking Comrade Kim Goes Flying on Show in Beijing

By Ned Kelly

Comrade Kim Goes Flying is North Korea’s How did you get into documentary mak- How did Comrade Kim Goes Flying come ing in the first place? about? TV sports producer Dan Gordon In 2004, together with the British first ever overseas co-production as well as approached me in 1999 to help make The Bend It Like reclusivethe first ever state. ‘girl power’ rom-com movie Game of Their Lives, about the North Korean Beckham to the Pyongyang International of itsThe kind story to be of filmeda young and female broadcast coal miner in the national football team that shocked the Embassy, we brought the film who dreams of becoming an acrobat has world in 1966 by beating Italy 1-0 in the positive response from the audience. North football World Cup in England. Perhaps Film Festival, which received a very across the world since debuting at the the most striking aspect of that story that was purely for entertainment, and made official selections at film festivals was the way local football supporters in theyKorea certainly had never had had never a non-political had a ‘girl power’ film Compared positively by the Wall Street Jour- Middlesbrough, their host town, ‘adopted’ movie. So that’s exactly what we set out to nalToronto International Film Festival in 2012. the North Korean players and became make. and Doris Day, Comrade Kim Goes Flying won fanatical supporters – supposedly over We spent six years working with North plaudits to the from feel-good Variety films for beingof Rock “a Hudsoncandy- 2,000 of them headed to Liverpool to watch Korean producers and Belgian co-producer hued throwback to a chirpy Technicolor their next match against Portugal. and director Anja Daelemans to make time when pluck won out and “postmodern” Comrade Kim Goes Flying, North Korea’s And two more documentaries followed wasn’t yet invented.” after that… But it’s also especially vital for helping Yes. As we were editing The Game of change perceptions of North Korean culture first non-political film. It’s also the first Their Lives, we realized we’d only used a North Korean film to be shown at the Busan few minutes footage of the Mass Games and And what do you say to those who allege contrast to the propaganda-laden norm International Film Festival in South Korea. it was clear that if there was going to be you’re helping fund an odious regime? thatand film;is DRPK the cinema.feel-good Comrade comedy Kim is a directorstark another project this had to be it – the life of Generating contact between the Nick Bonner tells us about his involvement an individual among this mass. That’s how maximum number of North Koreans and the A State of Mind came to be. We got incred- maximum number of visitors on a human in North Korean documentary filmmaking andHow crossing did you overfirst to come feature to visit film. the to date, the best introduction to a section of goals. People will disagree but it would be DPRK? Northible access, Korean and society. it remains my favorite film level, however fleeting, is one of our main I came to Beijing to lecture at the I think engagement is a better policy; non- But your biggest one was arguably beginning of the 90s and went to stay with engagementdifficult to further has not isolate worked. the country. And about the Korean War defectors… a friend, Josh Green, who had worked in Crossing the Line North Korea for a year setting up TNT, a > film screening and Q&a with nick Bonner. may 25, thought we could never make – the story courier service. We both played football 4pm, rmB100; Bc moma, china moma north Section, 1 of US defectors who crossedwas simply into a North film I with a Beijing-based North Korean, who xiangheyuan north Street, dongzhimen 东直门香河园 Korea in the 60s. No one, not even the US worked for a travel company in Pyongyang. 北街1号百老汇Bc moma北区 (www.bc-cinema.cn, email Government, knew what had happened to [email protected] to reserve). Koryo Tours also has them, whether they were dead or alive. In exclusive access to the biennial Pyongyang International What was that first visit like? 2006, while leading a tour, I was asked to He first invited us over in 1993. film festival, which will be held in north Korea from Utterly fascinating – back then there September 17-24. email [email protected] to join the was even less known of the country than a giant of a man dressed in a black North tour. now. There were very few destinations Koreango to the suit film with office nero and collar as I wasand waitinglapel badge you could visit and even less interaction of Kim Il-sung sat down opposite me and with locals. The country was simply empty WIN 2 TICKETS, email bjeditor@ urbanatomy.com, with the headline of foreigners. Josh and I decided to set up said in a Virginian drawl: “So you wanna Koryo Tours in the same year. hear my story, do you?” ‘CKGF’ 40 MAY 2014 feature » ARTS Directors' Cuts Making Ends Meet on the Small Stage

By Karoline Kan

With four plays under his belt, Sun Xiaox- ing’s artistic career seems to be something of a success. But the harsh realities of the creative industries mean that in addition to his dream job as a playwright and director, the 28-year-old holds a second role as a lecturer at Tianjin Conservatory of Music. “Although I'm having my works shown in theaters, without my stable job at the university I would be drifting in Beijing, as many young directors are,” he says. “The current environment for young, talented and ambitious directors is not great. Ar- tistic talent and passion don’t, and perhaps shouldn't, generate the money that pays the bills.” Sun is currently busy juggling his teaching role with rehearsals for his play, which shows at this year’s Nanluoguxiang spanning drama, dance, Chinese opera andTheater talks. Festival Given the(NTF), struggle a series his ofpeers events face getting their work shown, the young playwright is grateful for the opportunity. feels that young Chinese directors' efforts Even in a dynamic city like Beijing, there ”Without my stable job at shouldDespite command not being greater profit-minded, returns. Often Wang the are few platforms for directors to showcase the university I would be most promising talents are forced else- their talent, exchange ideas and engage in where to develop their art. dialogue. drifting in Beijing, as many “Recently we've seen young and tal- “The space for young stage directors young directors are“ is limited and there is not enough support In China, the line between commer- from government organs,” says Sun. “Young cial theater performances and those of an ented Chinese directors finding ways to and idealistic directors normally have their experimental nature has become blurred. domesticpromote themselves market and in censorship other art fieldsto partici - works performed in smaller venues like the After the economic reforms and opening-up like film,” he says. “[They've] skipped the of the 1980s, the marketization of theater Only then, depending on their fame, do they nature of small theater makes the perfor- soon followed. According to Sun, these successfullypate in foreign feed film back festivals to Chinese and awards. audienc - mancePenghao, more Fanxing about or art Fengchao and self-expression theaters. The reforms were deeply damaging. es. But stage art is different as it is popular “[The reforms to the scene] threw in a relatively small circle that can not hold there should be Government and social fundsthan profit to help and young commercial people to success create, [so] which of commercialization, which fundamen- - we don’t have.” performancetally harmed it,”in small he laments. theaters “How into can a flood you larlyinfluence important in the forsame the way scene. as film.” Now in its expect a performance in a theater with a ca- As such, events like NTF are particu - forced the drama scene into an inevitable pacity of fewer than 100 people [performed] compromiseThe lack ofbetween financial commercialization support has by unfamous young people to compete with fifthSwitzerland year, the and festival Israel will to take see guestspart. Even travel and artistic values. Such a balance is ling from Japan, England, France, Sweden, - not always easy to achieve and can be and advertisements?” ment, the festival organizers have found a impossible to reconcile for artists like Sun, one Sun'sequipped idealism with is advanced shared by promotion 27-year- without financial support from the Govern old director Wang Qingyuan, whose work international festival, something worthy of performances is a conversation not worth praise,way to channelaccording creativity to Sun Xiaoxing. into an influential having.who feels that profiting from small-scale in its “new directors” category. A graphic “I think in today’s China, any attempts “If you look to the history of how [these designerhas been byselected day, he by too the relies NTF oncommittee a stable job to explore art’s development will be record- to cover living expenses. ed in China’s art history book,” he says. Join you see that a small theater was a place of “My motivation to create drama and history in the making from May 19 to July pureproductions] and ideal first artistic developed dreams; in aGermany, corner- dance comes from wanting to express my- 12. stone of public discussion on social issues, > may 19-July 12, Penghao Theater, 35 dongmianhua political debates and democracy,” Sun says. is not whether the market will like my work hutong, dongcheng 东城区东棉花胡同35号 (6400 6452, “But in our current circumstances this butself,” whether he explains. it expresses “The first what thing I want I consider to 6400 6472) function is removed. It is so sad that art in say. There are many other jobs for money- the ‘last paradise’ has to persue commercial making goals, like real estate, [but] choos- assistance. Without the functions of and ing this relatively niche market means that WIN 2 TICKETS, email bjeditor@ connections with real life, I worry for its urbanatomy.com, with the headline sustainability.” ‘Thesp’ the start.” I didn't think too much about profit from

MAY 2014 41 photo Courtesy of ruff 12 Fight Club P.R.C 42 Russian fighter Azamat Gashimov lunges towards 20-year-old Lv Zhenhong during a recent bout at the Shanghai Hongkou Arena

Club P.R.COn the Road with China’s Fight Teenage Cage Fighters by STEPHEN GEORGE43 Song Yadong, a chiseled fighter in his late teens with movie-star top fighting style. You couldn’t beat a kung fu master – they were so good looks and short, floppy hair, enters the cage to the sound of powerful. They could kill you without even touching you. In my head I muted applause and a booming hip-hop soundtrack. The previous thought it was magic,” explains Bobo. undercard matches, each consisting of three five-minute rounds, have “But how many top fighters today use kung fu? None. MMA is so far failed to produce a true standout performance, and the interest the ultimate combat sport. The ultimate test of a man’s fighting of the predominantly male crowd has begun to wane. As the spotlight skills. Fighters are always improving, always adding new techniques narrows across the Shanghai Hongkou Arena, a certain restlessness and skills, always looking for a weakness; it’s totally different from takes hold. traditional Chinese martial arts, it requires a different type of Unmistakably the underdog, Song, a relatively unknown and mindset.” untested Chinese fighter from Harbin, in the northern province This new way of thinking has resonated with a subset of China’s of Heilongjiang, has fought professionally just twice before. His youth. MMA may still be a small niche pursuit by Chinese standards, opponent, a battle-hardened, unbeaten Mongolian by the name of with the recent tournament in Shanghai attracting just 2,000 Baasankhuu Damlanpurev is 11 years his senior, and arrives on the spectators, but its popularity is growing, especially compared to more back of an impressive seven-match winning-streak. traditional forms of combat sports. Believed to have arrived in the Three minutes later, the Mongolian’s unbeaten record is over. country in 2005, MMA has since gained a firm foothold, with gyms With a flurry of ferocious head shots, Song quickly downs his more promoting the new discipline opening across the country. There are experienced opponent, before pinning him to the mat and executing now five such gyms in Beijing alone, each boasting several hundred a rear choke hold. Unable to respond, a desperate Damlanpurev taps members – the majority of whom are teenagers and adolescents. out. The crowd, revitalized, takes to its feet in approval. Chants of For the young men packed into Shanghai’s Hongkou Arena, the “Zhongguo! Zhongguo! [China! China!]” echo around the arena. appeal is obvious. “MMA is a real man’s sport – only the toughest dare For Song and his 39-year-old trainer ‘Bobo’ Wu Jing, the victory is enter the cage,” says 26-year-old retail manager Li Zhao. “MMA is real the result of several years of dedicated, strenuous training. Song may fighting, not pretend stuff.” have appeared an unlikely winner on paper but in the unpredictable, His friend, 24-year-old Wu Cheng agrees. “Nowadays, young often brutal world of Chinese Mixed Martial Arts (MMA), a fighter’s Chinese like to copy Korean pop stars, everyone is very feminine and past record counts for little. What matters, says Bobo, is his killer weak. But MMA shows Chinese men can be real men too.” instinct. But MMA’s brand of caged machismo is not without its critics. “When I was a kid, everyone thought kung fu was the world’s

”Nowadays, young Chinese like to copy Korean pop stars, everyone is very feminine and weak. But MMA shows Chinese men can be real men too“

44 Inside China, many have dismissed the sport as a pumped-up always decisive – matches rarely end without a knockout or violent pursuit, devoid of philosophical meaning and lacking the submission. long-term health benefits of more traditional martial arts like The US-based Ultimate Fighting Championship (UFC), the wushu. world’s largest MMA organization with annual revenues in excess “I think there’s an element of truth to some of the criticism,” of USD500 million, draws much of its appeal from its apparent says Canadian Brandon Resnick, whose family owns and global reach – routinely matching up fighters from different operates Resnick Ultimate Fighting Federation (RUFF), the countries and backgrounds. But Bobo, who owns and operates only Government-licensed operator permitted to host MMA the successful K1 MMA gym in Tianjin, is mindful of China’s tournaments in the Mainland. “The two sports [wushu and MMA] international ambitions. are very, very different. But remember, martial arts are a part of “It would be a disaster if [the government] was to let the UFC China’s cultural DNA. Given MMA is such a new sport in China, into China right now,” he says. “Traditional Chinese martial arts they’ve taken to it here much quicker than in the United States, are more like gymnastics. They’re good for your health but not where it was accused of being ‘human cock-fighting’ for many for fighting. If the UFC staged a tournament in China tomorrow, years. I think if you look at its growth since we began holding all the Chinese fighters would get beaten, badly. This would be a tournaments in China in 2010, there’s no reason to think that it big problem. Everybody would know that kung fu’s famous magic can’t one day become a profitable mainstream sport.” powers are a lie. Personally, I think the Government is waiting. For a generation of Chinese who have come of age alongside Only when we have trained better fighters that can compete with their country’s global ascent, MMA also offers a rare chance to test the best in the world, will they let the UFC into China.” China’s strength on the world stage. Unlike other combat sports, Backstage at the Hongkou Arena, there is little mention of the MMA pits a variety of international fighting styles – be it Brazilian UFC, but the motivation is clear. A victory tonight would see the jiu-jitsu, Thai kickboxing, American wrestling or Chinese kung fighters take one step closer to their dream of being considered fu – against one another. In doing so, the sport helps settle age- the best in China, and perhaps one day being presented with an old hypothetical questions, such as who would win in a contest opportunity to fight professionally in America. between a heavyweight boxer and a karate black belt. Fighters The K1 team sits huddled at the back of the arena’s crowded, wear minimally-padded fingerless gloves, with matches held in noisy dressing room amid scores of other fighters and trainers, a locked hexagonal cage. The result is often bloody and nearly some bloodied, others preparing to fight. The stench of sweat is

”Nowadays, young Chinese like to copy Korean pop stars, everyone is very feminine and weak. But MMA shows Chinese men can be real men too“ assanelli photo by noemi c by photo

Lv Zhenhong, above, in his dormitory at the K1 gym in Tianjin, and, left, in action against Azamat Gashimov 45 photo Courtesy of ruff 12 Courtesy photo Song Yadong celebrates alongside his trainer ‘Bobo’ Wu Jing after defeating Baasankhuu Damlanpurev in Shanghai photo Courtesy of ruff 12 Courtesy photo

fighter with a point to prove: Song Yadong. Although from a more ”It‘s tough. Very, very tough. They middle class background, Song had also arrived in Beijing against the train hard, though that‘s what it takes wishes of his family, who wanted him to pursue a college education. The two soon became firm friends, with Song later introducing Lv to to be the best“ his trainer and mentor Bobo. overpowering. 19-year-old Song – victor of the evening’s earlier bout “I knew he could be great as soon as I saw him train,” says Bobo, – rests against a wall, his face wrapped in ice packs, while his close recalling the first time he met a then 17-year-old Lv. “He didn’t have friend and sparring partner, 20-year-old Lv (Lyu) Zhenhong paces the technique yet, but he had the heart.” back and forth, mentally preparing himself for his headline matchup Aware of the difficulties Lv was facing, Bobo offered to make him against former UFC fighter, 24-year-old Azamat Gashimov. a deal. “For the first few months, he wanted to give up and go home. “I feel happy with the result,” says a grinning Song. “It was tough His family couldn’t afford to support him any longer, you know. His at first, but very quickly everything went to plan. I am still not used father looked at what he was doing – trying to be a fighter – and to being here, in front of the crowds, but after the result I feel all my thought it was a waste of money. So I said: ‘Come and train with efforts and sacrifices are paying off. I feel I am on the right track.” me and your friend Song. You don’t need to give me money. Firstly, Whereas Song has the type of fresh-faced look more commonly I’ll cover your training and accommodation costs, just like Song. associated with teen idols, Lv is every bit the fighter. Although not Secondly, I can train you up quickly and put you into a fight so you Song’s exact opposite, his appearance is more lean pit bull, than can make money to send home. For every month you train with me, all-star athlete. His face, an intriguing mix of youthful mischief and I’ll give you money – like a salary – that you can buy your own things chewed-up scar tissue, hints at a tough upbringing. with.’” The oldest of eight children, Lv was born into a poor farming Today both Lv and Song live at the K1 gym in a small on-site family in rural Shanxi. As the family’s only son, he was expected dormitory provided for by Bobo. Training takes the form of three to help provide for his parents and seven sisters. However, after sessions per day, six days a week, beginning at 8.30am and ending at a few brushes with the law and a brief spell in jail for fighting, Lv 7pm. became determined to leave Shanxi and make a name for himself as a “They start on the running machine then work with the muay professional martial artist in Beijing. Thai coach for two hours. Then they sleep. Then three hours training During an interview several weeks prior to the fight, Lv took a by themselves, sparring, working on technique – that type of thing. brief break from training in Tianjin to recount those early days. “It And then in the evening, boxing and Brazilian jiu-jitsu,” says Bobo of was very hard, I was very young and did not know anything. I arrived Lv and Song’s daily schedule. “It’s tough; very, very tough – they train in Beijing at the end of 2009 and started to train in wushu schools, so hard, though that’s what it takes to be the best,” he adds. I could earn money to send home to my family through martial arts The punishing, relentless training routine has helped push performances. But then one night, I discovered MMA while online. I Lv to the very top of tonight’s billing. His face adorns the event’s remember thinking, ‘I could do that.’” promotional material, while his image stares out menacingly from It was around this time he met another young aspiring MMA 20ft banners hung across the outside of the arena. But if the pressure 46 of being the star attraction is getting to him, it doesn’t show. ”Rich families don‘t want their kids to By the time Lv enters onto the arena floor, it’s nearing 10pm and the crowd is in full voice. Led out by Song and surrounded by his do this, they want their kids to go to a training team, Lv pauses briefly to kneel down and adopt a prayer good college, a good university. They position on the steps of the cage before climbing in and facing his think there‘s no future in MMA“ opponent, the heavily-muscled Russian, Azamat Gashimov. Next to the hulking Gashimov, Lv’s young age is brought into stark see a different outcome. Lv took a lot of hits in the early rounds, but focus. It is man versus boy. A mismatched bout, in which Gashimov afterwards he wasn’t that hurt – Azamat looks big, but he’s not that is the obvious favorite. A hushed nervousness creeps through the strong.” crowd. To my right, a man asks aloud whether a mistake had been Bobo and Lv mock spar a little and make plans for the week made. “The Chinese fighter has been set up!” he exclaims, in apparent ahead. After Lv leaves, Bobo shares his concerns with me over his disbelief. young fighter’s future. “Professional fighting in China doesn’t make The first round is savage. Lv is wrestled to the ground and very much money – it’s not like in America, where you can make pounded repeatedly by Gashimov. The young fighter can do little your fortune in the cage. At the last event in Shanghai, we made just but defend his face. Eventually, Lv manages to climb back onto his RMB20,000. That is not enough. If we can’t find Lv a sponsor, he will feet, only for Gashimov to land a furious overhand right, knocking have to leave to return to his family, maybe not now, but soon,” he him back onto the mat. The damage to the young Chinese fighter is says. clear to all and for a moment it looks as if the referee might have to “To tell you the truth, most MMA fighters are from the intervene. Finally, the bell rings, and Lv falls back into his corner. countryside. Song is maybe the exception. Rich families don’t want The second round begins, as in the first, with Gashimov in total their kids to do this, they want their kids to go to a good college, a control. Lv weathers the Russian’s relentless body shots, kicking out good university. They think there’s no future in MMA. Parents say, wildly at his opponent. Gashimov though, shows no sign of letting ‘Why do you do this? You will get hurt. If you go to a good university up, landing blow after blow, peppering the 20-year-old with vicious you can get a good job.’ combinations. “It’s too bloody and wild. Only the poor families will take the risk. But Lv appears beyond breakable, his refusal to give up lending But poorer families in China rely on their sons – especially their only new meaning to the old phrase, ‘its not the dog in the fight, it’s the sons – for an income, and while I can provide for my fighters, I can’t fight in the dog.’ By the third round, Gashimov is beginning to tire provide for their families too.” and the crowd, sensing a resurgence, will on their countryman with Bobo seems pained by the prospect of losing Lv. It’s obvious how chants of “Lv, Jiayou! [Come on Lv!]” The young Chinese fighter much he wants to see Lv and Song succeed. Indeed, the entire K1 gym returns to his feet, pushing his opponent back. Now it is Lv with the – from the popular public classes to the professional trainers – has momentum, landing a series of decisive front kicks, side kicks and the been designed implicitly to help support them. But nor is he blind to occasional head kick. the realities of professional fighting in China. “I’m not interested in Gashimov is hurting. The crowd is on its feet, chanting wildly. making a return on my investment. My dream is their dream. I want Can Lv take it at the last moment? The bell rings and the match to see them become world champions. To be the best and fight in is over. Despite Lv’s overwhelming courage, the final decision is America,” he says. really nothing more than a formality. The judges award Gashimov a “Every day I try to look for sponsors for them. But the fighting unanimous victory. circuit is not big enough – it does not pay enough. They fight maybe The K1 team is the last to leave the dressing room. The points loss once every three months, at most. I’ve had more than fifty fighters notwithstanding, the team appears upbeat. “The cheers were really quit because of these pressures. The trouble is, in China people can’t encouraging for me,” says Lv, his face visibly battered and swollen. “I see the future. I tell them ‘the future belongs to you, not to me.’ But I got excited when I heard the crowd chant my name. I felt that I had to can’t tell them what to choose.” fight harder, to win the honor for my country. “During the second round, I regained my composure and felt much better. I will work twice as hard to reinforce my ability after this fight, to follow my dream, and become a champion.” Several weeks later, I return to Tianjin to meet with Bobo. A public training class is underway and the K1 gym is packed with children and teenagers, eagerly mimicking the movements of the gym’s Muay Thai instructor. Bobo and Lv are relaxed, having just returned from a training camp in Thailand, where Lv was attacked by a pack of wild dogs, among other things. “He looks tough but the dogs were tougher!” jokes Bobo. I had expected to meet Song too, though I later learn from Bobo he is in Beijing, receiving treatment on a broken ankle he sustained during a kickboxing bout in Thailand and won’t return to training for at least a month. Lv has finished his morning training routine and is preparing to take a rare afternoon off. He tells me he feels frustrated with the outcome of the previous match and wants to get back into the ring to prove himself. “If I fought [Azamat Gashimov] again, I’m sure I could win,” he says.

Bobo agrees. “We didn’t know much about him before the fight, wiggin stu by photo so we were unable to study his style. You saw how Lv was able to Song Yadong (top) and Lv Zhenhong (bottom), spar during handle him as the match went on, I think next time around, you’d a Brazilian jiu-jitsu training session at the K1 gym in Tianjin

47 Whether you're a combat enthusiast or a humble commuter looking to hold your own during rush hour, there are plenty of ways to get fighting in Beijing. We spoke to three martial arts masters (and a nice old lady in Ditan Park) about how to get involved, the necessary skills and the all-important question – how useful will it be in a Sanlitun bar fight?

tling Chinese Wres ang Tongqing, 50, Beijing Master > W Wang started Gym > Shangwu International Kungfu School Muay Thai Bio > Under the influence of his Manchu family, Master > Vincent Soberano,ight Club 50, US wrestling aged 7 and has competed since 1976. He has > Black Tiger F Gym Thai in Thailand aged 10 and hasT foughthe former represented the Chinese Mainland at competitions in Hong Kong tarted muay Bio > S and Japan. competitively since moving to the TUSiger six in years 2005 later. and now works full Tell us a bit about the sport. software engineer founded Black Chinese wrestling dates back thousands of years to when people time building the club. first started to fight with animals. During the Qing dynasty, Thailand and has been part of the Tell us a bit about the sport. professional wrestlers were trained for the royal families and the Thai is the national sport of Muay Thailand modern sport has inherited these classic moves. country's history for hundreds of years. In the 1960s there were a How useful is it in a real-life fight? lot of good kickers but then more Dutch people settled in Although we discourage disciples from conflict, wrestlers know who had great boxing skills so the local fighters had to evolve. how to defend themselves. Since the recent stabbings in Kunming I How useful is it in a real-life fight? Thai fighters train, now volunteer around Beijing, offering basic classes – most Chinese Thai is extremely practical. It's notWhen a system muay based on forms, Muay are too weak and have no knowledge of self-defense. like tai chi or karate, but on combat. Am I right for Chinese wrestling?To beWhat a good makes fighter, a good you fighter? need to they throw punches and kicks at full force so they aren't afraid of It is not suitable for everyone. getting hit. be physically strong enough and a good all-rounder because we Am I right for muay Thai? What makes a good fighter? divide the training into moves involving the arms, legs and waist. It's 60 percent conditioning, 30 percent attitude and 10 percent Is it popular in China? technique. If you're not well-conditioned all it's going to take is one There are more people practicing Chinese wrestling in Beijing, punch and he'll knock you out. Tianjin and Hebei than in the southern part of China. It is not as Is it popular in China? popular as before but we have several competitions for wrestlers It's super popular in China. But when I first came here in 2005 around Beijing each year with more than 30 participants. people saw it as just a fighting thing and I couldn't grow my We now have three How can I get involved? business so I developed it into a fitness system. Go to our website or just drop by the school. How can I get involved? A lot of people here are just out to lose weight, get foreigners training Awithll the us courses and it‘s arenot practicala problem and if youyou don'tcan learn speak Come down. There are lots of beginners but if people get Chinese very well. 号 (136 9159 4483, toned and get fitter. the moves by watching others. past intermediate level we assess whether we can put them in a > 69, Xizhimennei Dajie, Xicheng 西城区西直门大姐69 competition. www.tongqing.org) > Sino-Japanese Youth Exchange Center Gymnasium, 40 Liangmaqiao Road, 西城亮马桥路号 Chaoyang 40 (138 1118 9819, www.blacktigerclub.com)

48 Kung Fu (Yiquan) ao Chengrong, 61, Beijing Master > Y u School > Zhongyi Kung F Tai Chi Gym Bio > Yao began practicing aged 9 under the instruction of his Master > Xu Jianhua, 61, Beijing father, a well-known kung fu master. He practices a variation called > Ditan Park Gym yiquan (literally "mind boxing") and has been invited to Japan and After retiring as a doctor, Xu sought a new pastime to kill Bio > ark and now Hong Kong several times to teach. some time and keep in shape. She tried group dancing in parks but found it "too light." She joined a tai chi class in Ditan P Tell us a bit about the sport. In the 1930s, yiquan's founder published some articles which acts as a trainer. Yuan came to the attention of the kung fu world and by the 1960s it Taoism Tell us a bit about the sport. had transformed into something more suitable for daily exercise. Tai chi is a traditional Han sport dating back to the end of the yiquan's movements seem gentle and slow but the strength you Dynasty (around 1360) which combines Confucianism, muster can be mighty. All the and yin-yang dialectics. It focuses on balancing harsh forces and flexibility. How useful is it in a real-life fight? The moves of yiquan are definitely useful in a real fight. How useful is it in a real-life fight? kung fu styles have one thing in common – a sudden explosive Tai chi could be very useful in a real-life fight although it is force. When people are in danger, yiquan helps them to fight with underestimated in modern times. It looks soft, slow and relaxing accuracy and efficiency. but it focuses on your own balance and how to disturb your enemy’s. Am I right for yiquan? What makes a good fighter?To be good you Everyone can practice yiquan, since it is nowadays a sport for daily Am I right for tai chi? What makes a good fighter? exercises. It does not require physical strength. Unlike sports requiring specific traits to succeed, tai chi is open need patience, persistence in training and understanding of the to anybody who can remain calm and dedicated. Besides basic connection between movement and your inner spirit. practice, you must develop knowledge of yin-yang and qi culture, We now have more philosophy and traditional medical theory. Is it popular in China? Yes, and people often practice yiquan in parks. Is it popular in China? than a hundred participants at my kung fu school and each year we It is very popular among senior Beijing locals but very few practice welcome groups of kung fu lovers from all over the world.We've it for fighting. It is more about self-cultivation and relaxation. In almost every park you will find groups of people practicing tai chi. How can I get involved? Visit our website or come directly to our kung fu school. How can I get involved? already had many foreign students here. It is not difficult to As a beginner you can join the tai chi groups in many of Beijing's ark, you can find me every morning with my understand the master. parks. In Ditan P There's a charge of RMB150 for > Room 302, Building 1, 202 Guangnei Dajie, Xuanwu, Xicheng 宣武区广内大 students practicing from 7am. (6605 5289 www.yiquan-zywg.com) 号地坛公园街22号1号楼302室 beginners. > Ditan Park, 2 Anwai Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区安外大街甲2 Brawling in Beijing

an aroline K Martial Arts Masters on Fighting in the Capitalassanelli words by OSCAR HOLLAND, Sophphotosie Zhan byg andNoe mK i C

49 grapevine

nibbles pick of three: Al fresco Eats It’s open season for Beijing’s eclectic al fresco wining and dining spots, but can any prove as popular as the infamous Heaven Supermarket strip? This nightlife purgatory is a reprobate magnet, from glittery four-inch-heel- wearing sirens on their way to the Grey Goose tables of Gongti to pumped-up Wudaokou bros en route to a night in a Sanlitun cell (probably). How the constantly mutating strip of Xindong Lu ‘bars’ (read: fridge MODO Urban Deli Sureño Rumi and tables on sidewalk) remains MODO’s Cuban sandwich, with Sureño’s sunken garden offers a Rumi’s Persian cuisine makes for street legal we’ll never know. But the sight of that sidewalk roasted pork, ham and melted bit of shelter from the summer ideal sustenance in swelteringly gouda, is one of its most popular. sun, so you can spend a whole hot weather – like this king That Caribbean isle is but a afternoon trying its new menu, prawn, mango and cashew salad. is upon us. Parnas, MODO and fillingMigas uphave means all opened balcony theirs, season distant fantasy, so MODO’s sun- which includes a scallop and Light, delicious and served with as will DK1308 shortly (see drenched terrace will have to avocado carpaccio with salmon a tangy lemon dressing, eat it p.64) If you’d rather be under make do. RMB68 (half sandwich roe and a basil and lime dressing. out on their terrace when the a roof than on one, Wudaoying + half salad). RMB148 (+ 15% service charge). sky is blue. RMB75. Hutong restaurant Chi is start- > modo Urban deli, S10-31, building 3, > Sureno, the opposite house, building 1, > rumi, intersection of gongti bei lu and ing a nightly pop-up bar called tai Koo li, 19 Sanlitun lu, chaoyang 朝阳 tai Koo li, 11 Sanlitun lu, chaoyang 朝阳 third ring road, chaoyang ‘He’ (geddit?), where they’ll ship 区三里屯路19号太古里南区3楼S10-31号区三里屯路11号院1号楼太古里瑜舍酒店朝阳区工体北路和三环内 a truck-load of the best booze (6415 7207) (6417 6688) (8454 3838) from Janes and Hooch to enjoy with their bites from Wednes- days to Sundays. Head to Head Further down Wudaoying, Panda Brewpub is moving for a second time this year,the fickle hopefully somewhere Starbucks vs. Hercules larger (and with better bamboo). After a rent-hike scare The Challenge: last month, we’re relieved to Iced Tea hear that 4corners has quelled its landlord’s ire to live on in Houhai. A more spacious Beiluo Name: Iced Hibiscus and Mango Juiced Tea. Name: Peach and Lemon Iced Tea. Bread Bar has re-opened after renovation. Digs: Starbucks (which takes its name from the Digs: Hercules (a strong name rooted deep Moka Bros has announced in Greek and Roman mythology. Perfect for a it is to open a new branch in novel Moby Dick). sandwich shop, then). Solana Mall, which first mate aboard the ship in classic maritime Taste: A little bit sweet, more like a watery juice Taste: More like a fruity tea, although the lemon is also where than a juiced-up tea. But the tart hibiscus and overpowers the peach. Tall, ice-cold and not at Shanghai Min group softer mango are getting on very well indeed. all sweet – it’s thoroughly refreshing. Estimated is opening a project Refreshment: accomplished. drop in body temperature: 3.5 degrees. called The Dining Room. Pair it with: This is Starbucks – pair it with a Pair it with: Their Philly cheesesteak sandwich Beijing mainstays Q Mex and and a copy of Homer’s Odyssey. Q Bar are revolutionizing their menus with a new management muffinPrice: RMB24/27/30and a Macbook. Price: RMB45 team. Lastly, we remember Get it: Various locations across the city, including Get it: Hercules, 55-2 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoy- hearing a few months back a 24-hour branch at Tai Koo Li South. ang 朝阳区幸福村中路55-2号 that Pizza Express would be arriving in Beijing right about Verdict: Like its namesake, the Hercules tea is strong and dynamic, just edging the contest. But it now – heard anything? If so, sing comes at a cost, so sit down to savor the Hercules variety and take the Starbucks to go. WP it from the rooftops... WP

50 MAY 2014 [email protected]

Soundbite bartisans Bartisans is a semi-regular column where Beijing’s best bartenders introduce their favorite cocktails. This “Eating rare wild animals is not month: Francesco from Migas. only bad social conduct but also a main reason why illegal hunting continues”

Deputy head of the Legislative Affairs Commission of the NPC Standing Committee, Lang Sheng, commenting on tightened laws on the protection of wild animals. Those found guilty of buying and hunting endangered species – of which there are 420 in China – will now face certain jail time.

STINKER OF A NAME Burger King Unveils PooPoo Smoothie The drink. Up in the Clouds. Base of Zacapa 23 rum, How this one made it past the mixed with Pedro Ximénez syrup infused with orange brainstorming meeting we’ll peel, fresh lemon juice and egg white. One half of the top never know. Burger King has is coated with Creole cocoa powder for a light-dark, yin- unveiled its latest menu item for yang look. Served in a wooden wine glass for a classic the summer – and although it Caribbean aesthetic. doesn’t taste like sh*t it certainly sounds like it. The history. Francesco (above), head bartender at The ice cold PooPoo is in fact a Migas, designed this cocktail for a recent China-wide quite palatable mango smoothie, bartending competition and it landed him a spot in the with little fruit ‘pearls’ at the it’s sharper and less embarrassing to order. The rum is – which we have to admit is some fairly inexpensive poo. geniunelyfinal ten. The made taste up isin reminiscentthe clouds – ofthousands a piña colada of meters but bottom and a floater of vanilla ice-cream on top. It’ll set you back RMB15.5-18.5 above sea level in the Guatemalan mountains, where a MOVING ON UP slowerWhy chosen? ageing processSummer produces is indeed its coming distinct and flavor. this drink Marks and Spencer Announces Beijing Store Plans was made for balmy evenings by the beach. “Summer cocktails are my favorite to make,” the Italian admits. The British retail chain Marks “They’re more fun. You should really be wearing and Spencer has announced plans beach clothing for this one,” he tells us. “Girls: bikinis to increase its number of world- essential.” stores in Chinese cities like Bei- Secret ingredient. The half-half cocoa powder is what jingwide and branches, Guangzhou. including The high-endflagship gives the drink its own distinct character. Sip from the supermarket, which also has its darker side for a sweeter taste, the lighter side for sour. own clothing lines, already oper- Chocolate mixed with lemon and egg white might sound ates 15 stores in China, mainly like a mismatch but it works. “Plus the cocoa hides the in Shanghai and Hong Kong. The smell of the egg,” Francesco adds. brand is thought to appeal to Tasting notes. “When I make a cocktail, I just want to aspirational middle classes and has a dedicated following among British expats. make the customer happy,” our bartender says, picking In the UK it has established itself as a consumer lifestyle choice, much like Apple up a straw to test his creation. “When I take a sip of this, and Starbucks, but without becoming too exclusive. my decision is I want to drink more.” When we drink it, Yet the move comes amid unsteady sales in China, with analysts suggesting we’re instantly transported to a wind-swept sandy bay. that the store has overestimated demand for its products. “In China [Marks and Maybe it should be called Head in the Clouds. WP Spencer] typically attracts 60-year-old Chinese women and expatriates. Few of the younger women who were their target actually shop there,” an M&S analyst > Find Up in the clouds at migas (rmb80), 6/F nali patio, told the Financial Times. The store has therefore announced plans to partner 81 Sanlitun beilu, chaoyang with Chinese backers and adapt its product lines as it expands. 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园6层 (5208 6061)

MAY 2014 51 EAT & DRINK « feature anelli

ss V Sports Your New Favorite Sports Bar

by Stephen George photo by noemi ca by photo

Sports bars in Beijing tend to come in two By Beijing standards, V Sports is less Fei, V Sports takes the existing sports bar distinct, time-worn varieties: the squalid, a sports bar, more a sports entertainment template and elevates it to a whole new rowdy late-night football pub and the brash, complex. It is the Las Vegas of sports bars, a level. It’s as if you’ve wondered drunkenly over excitable all-American bar. There massive, plush, roped-off enclosure where through some strange, hitherto unknown, are of course a few notable hutong-styled every seat is granted multiple, unobstructed backdoor in the Den and into a secret VIP exceptions but, for the most part, choice is views of countless numbers of enormous area. The seating is clean and comfortable, sorely limited. We assumed this was the the wait staff are attentive and friendly and result of straightforward market forces. when eaten sober, and is served in massive, the bar is – for the moment at least – free of Sports fans are a simple-minded bunch generousflat-screen portions. TVs. The The food beer is decent, list is extensive even raging, drunken d*ckheads. and – like sports bars themselves – tend to and reasonably priced. They have Guinness Now, some people will undoubtedly fall into one of two categories: Americans on tap (RMB60) and a roof garden with a accuse V Sports of lacking the atmosphere who enjoy sports involving helmets and massive outdoor screen for special sporting of other, less salubrious venues. But if we’re padding, and non-Americans, who enjoy events (we’re looking at you, World Cup). honest, perhaps that’s not such a bad thing? sports without helmets and padding. And Owned by Gonti nightclub stalwart Vics, > daily 9.30pm-4.30am, gongti north gate east side, then along came V Sports. and operated by former Den manager, Carol chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内东侧 (5293 0333) Mama Pizza The Mother Lode

by will philipps

Finding a truly authentic pizza outside of anelli

Italy is not easy. Quality, it often seems, is ss particular China, is often culpable of such pizzasacrificied sacrilege. for gimmick. Beijing duck East toppings Asia, and and in dustbin lid-sized pizzas: guilty as charged. noemi ca by photo Simplicity, good ingredients and a large sponsible for the neighboring Mai Bar, from jam – and sadly it lacks a bit of sharpness. oven are all you need. The more toppings we where you can order cocktails as you wait. If The cheese appears to be mozzarella but see, the more we suspect they are masking there is a little bit too much of it and the sur- incompetence or something far more of their abilities to make pizza, then we’re face becomes slightly greasy. sinister. intheir for abilitya treat. to Sipping fix a negroni on the isbitter any indicationaperitif The choices range from the simple Nonetheless, the prospect of a trip to (which we promptly realize is a terrible (margherita RMB45, parma ham and aru- Mama Pizza initially installed a sense of match for pizza), we take in the simple inte- gula RMB60, smoked pork and wild mush- hope, thanks largely to its name, which rior, which wins bonus points for a foosball room RMB60) to the less simple (spicy beef conjures authentic images of an overweight table and a well-stocked bar and beer fridge. RMB60, pesto tuna RMB60, four cheese Neapolitan matriarch armed with a tool-belt We also have a close-up view of our chef RMB55), and are accompanied by an excel- of virgin olive oils. But upon learning that it twirling pizza bases above his head and he lent green salad with apple and pine nuts is Chinese owned and staffed (that’s ‘Mama’ doesn’t drop one: we’re impressed. Minutes (RMB25). as in ‘妈妈’, rather than ‘mamma mia’) we later the pizzas arrive and we get straight to Most importantly they’re all of a quality the analysis. The base is excellent – doughy that merits a return visit (and, mercifully, But the simple, rustic Mama Pizza, at the - there’s no sight of that cardinal sin of top- northweren’t end exactly of Beiluoguxiang, filled with confidence. has done its ness. The tomato could be smeared a little pings: pineapple). andmore floury, generously but firm – we with want a powdery to be able crisp to > daily 11am-11pm, 51 beiluoguxiang, dongcheng The restaurant’s owners are also re- 东区北锣鼓巷51号 (8408 3763) homework – it’s a fine little establishment. run our finger through it like a thick layer of 52 MAY 2014 new restaurants » EAT & DRINK Soloist Singular Espressos

by Marianna Cerini anelli ss photo by noemi ca by photo

“Soloist is to coffee what high-end whisky bars are to scotch and bourbon”

In a sea of Starbucks and Paris Baguettes, loiterers and tourists in need of a pit stop (RMB40) is smooth and straightforward, Soloist Coffee is a tried-and-true standby could happily while away a few hours in full-bodied and naturally sweet. Similarly, for the more indie-minded, caffeine-addled here without having to mingle with too espressos (RMB30) are bold and chocolatey, literary nerds out there. Branching out many fashionable twits. If you’ve made the with rich hazelnut and nutty notes. If you from its original 798 location, the venture’s trip all the way down here to Qianmen, it’s don’t know your cappuccino from your second outpost can be found in the rapidly worth staying for a few hours, anyway. cafetière, expertly-trained baristas are gentrifying area of Dashilar, at the south Upon walking in, a moreish, addictive happy to dispense suggestions. end of Tiananmen Square, where it opened a aroma of Arabica wafts up from what looks Sure, these cuppas are a tad pricier few months back alongside a slew of hipper- like a laboratory, a series of glossy roasting than other Beijing cafes, but in return you’ll machines and patiently-dripping sieves enjoy some seriously top-notch concoctions right in while putting on a splendid show of providing coffee to match any palate. It’s to often lacking elsewhere. And should all that strongthan-thou brews, shops great and bakes businesses. and light It fits bites. coffee what high-end whisky bars, like Glen caffeine need balancing, a small range of The venue itself – a two-storey indus- Classic, are to scotch and bourbon. homemade cakes – think cheesecakes and trial-looking space with a handy outdoor The idea is to offer a memorable chocolate brownies (RMB30-35/slice) - offer seating area – is neat and unintimidating, experience for coffee connoisseurs and a solid, indulgent treat. boasting a rustic décor of bare wooden Soloist does so using state-of-the-art And if you’d rather shun coffee entirely – tables, vintage knick-knacks, exposed bricks utensils, as well as holding coffee-making although why would you? - Vedett (RMB30) workshops that could revolutionize your and La Chouffe (RMB35) are also available, stuck on the wall – oh, what a waste) that morning brew forever. as are fresh juices and tea (both RMB35). If wouldn’tand a couple look of out decorative of place infixie a corner bikes café(one An Ethiopian Aramo (RMB55) is you value beautiful beans and expert brew- in Williamsburg, Brooklyn or East London’s Shoreditch. a rich, almost crisp syrup, it’s a powerful trip south for. The whole setup is decidedly trendy but andworthy robust of true slow-drip aficionados. blend Extractedthat needs to ing,> dail ySoloist 11am-8 ispm definitely, 39 yangme worthizhu Xie jmakingie, meishi Jtheie, not excessively pretentious. Dorky laptop neither sugar nor milk. A foamy cappuccino Xicheng 西城区煤市街杨梅竹斜街39号 (5711 1717)

MAY 2014 53 EAT & DRINK « feature El Gran Bocado Even Bigger Bite by Stephen George

On El Gran Bocado’s inside wall, next to the staircase, owner Ray Heng has begun sketching the outline of a “Mexican food map” – a large mural spanning the entire south western coast of North and Central America, from Acapulco to Monterey. Of course, a more realistic map would likely be much bigger given that Mexican food can now be found just about everywhere, especially in Beijing – a city seemingly in love with its tacos. “There’s something about Mexican food that inspires a certain amount of devotion,” says 31-year-old Heng. “It’s simple enough that people can adapt it to local styles. But, that doesn’t mean it’s necessarily always that good.” La pie Indeed. Fortunately, El Gran Bocado is among the very best Mexican joints you’re Sans Pie, Avec Acid-Trip Mural

by Oscar Holland restaurant recently updated its already impressivelikely to find menu. this side So what’s of the new?Pacific. The Well, there’s a range of spicy margari- tas, expanded burrito options, new sauces at the salsa bar, and, best of all, seriously There is something oxymoronic about naming a restaurant La Pie. “La” conjures images of haute cuisine, whereas “pie” is an altogether less sophisticated beast. It is like opening The Baja set comes with two six-inch grilled a hotel called Le Château Discount or serving spam au vin. delicious all new Baja fish tacos (RMB55). It transpires that the name actually refers to the French word for magpie but our toppedand charred with Chipotleflour tortillas, mayonnaise filled with coleslaw, pan- absorb visually on an iPad in lieu of an English menu) features an array of simple dishes spicyseared avocado imported cream flounder and crumbled fish fillet quesoand initial interpretation seems more fitting. Because the pan-western lineup (which we fresco (Mexican fresh cheese). Optional Onion rings rest delicately upon one another like fallen dominoes. A bun-less beef watermelon pico-de-gallo can also be found pattydressed is toppedup as something with a meticulous far more latticerefined. of melted cheese and placed beside two cocktail at the aforementioned well-stocked salsa sausages. The (albeit nicely photographed) hot dog is just that – a hot dog – though the bar. Perfect for those hot, summer months offending frankfurters have been bisected lengthways as if to somehow fool us of their ahead. true identity. The restaurant does not actually serve pies. But if it did, then they would > daily 11am-12am, 1/F Just make building, 55 Xingfu- probably be “deconstructed” (cut in half) and served “avec jus” (covered in gravy). cun Zhonglu, chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路55号杰座大 We opt for the comparatively classy-looking lamb chops (RMB98) which are well- 厦1楼 (6416 1715) seasoned and relatively succulent, though the accompanying vegetables are over-salted. At the opposite end of the sophistication spectrum, the chicken wings (RMB49) are served in a posh white bowl and taste disconcertingly like those produced by a certain

into a meal deal. Kentucky-basedSomewhere inbetween colonel. They lies just an expensive cost significantly but passable more beefand cannotand bean be stew incorporated (RMB88), though the over-sweetened tomato base gives rise to the suspicion that Heinz may have had a hand in its creation. It is all rather unremarkable. But there is one thing about the restaurant that is not – the serene central atrium around which it is built. With a shallow pool at the bottom and artistically illuminated foliage hanging above, it houses a two-storey-high artwork of bright, acid-trip swirls, Japanese-style waves and multi-colored monsters projectile vomiting across the wall. The food at La Pie will, frankly, struggle to win custom. But it is certainly worth dropping by for a cocktail – if only to absorb the bold and menacing mural (hallucinogens optional). > daily 9am-11pm, 60 wudaoying hutong, dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同60号 (6405 6168)

54 MAY 2014 feature » EAT & DRINK Hatsune, Kerry Centre California Dreaming by Will Philipps

Hatsune’s Japanese-Californian fusion sushi rolls have been winning praise in Beijing for over a decade now. Part of the reason for that success might be the ever-evolving menu, with the constant addition of new creations dreamt up by head chef and California native Alan Wong, and bolstered by suggestions from his most creative customers. The list will be familiar to many in Beijing – The Kerry Centre branch is Hatsune’s third in the capital, alongside Sanlitun and Guanghua Lu. The target market at Kerry will no doubt be the business lunch crowd and at 12.30pm it’s packed. There are no surprises on the menu at the new branch but the interior design of the restaurant is a little more subdued. There frenzyisn’t a huge of sharks shoal would of fish be suspended more apt. from the ceiling, as found in the Tai KooThe Lilunch branch, menu but consists since we’re of Hatsune’s in the financial trademark district, rolls whichperhaps a make for hasty and hassle-free lunchtime ordering. But there’s plenty of reasons to go full feast if your busy schedule permits. Ours does, so we try a seared maguro caesar salad (RMB78), which sees meaty tuna sat atop a crispy bed of leaves, as well as some juicy steak teppanyaki (RMB95) and gourmet hand rolls, one of which, the Joel (RMB55), contains the distinctly un-Japanese foie gras. We are also recommended a Japanese burrito (RMB75) with chicken MORNING SET ¥40 (7:00 ~ 11:00) teriyaki and avocado, which is decent enough, but there are richer - rean burrito – Mexican food clearly has a good PR team in Asia. flavorsBut onback the to menu. the sushi Indeed, rolls, it ofwas which only therelast month are four we pages’ tried a worth Ko of options alone. Many contain titillating puns, like Pimp My Roll (RMB85) or Rolls Royce (RMB118), while others seem to be culinary odes to Transformers robots (another popular US-Japanese merger), like the Megatron (RMB82) or Maximus Prime (as opposed to Optimus, RMB145). It’s more tempting to choose by name than by delicious – Pimp My Roll has soft-shelled crab and scorched salmon andactual packs filling a more but that savory that hit doesn’t than mostprevent nigiri us choosingor sashimi. something WAFFLE WITH FRUITS ¥30 SPAGHETTI WITH TOMATO > daily 11.30am,-2am, 5.30pm-10pm, b1/F, Kerry centre mall, 1 guanghua lu, chaoy- SAUCE ¥44 ang 朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心商场b1层 (6591 3939) SPAGHETTI WITH TOMATO SAUCE ¥40

MAY 2014 55 EAT & DRINK « new bars come bar We Came, We Saw, We Left by Will Philipps Hidden House Home Alone

by Anthony Tao

Hidden House is stylish, jazzy and exclusive, making absolutely no apologies for catering to the deluxe set. But quality alone may not save it. As good as its drinks are, as agreeable its ambiance, its success hinges on this question: does Beijing have enough drinkers who care about excellence? People will visit any place once, especially a bar as ostensibly hidden as Hidden House (it is “speakeasies” in Beijing have failed to live up to their billing, becoming more of a gim- The large, illuminated Stella and mick than true actually watering hard hole to find, in the tucked guise behind of PDT, a Newbookshelf), York’s famous but for theEast most Village part, speak - Boddingtons signs outside Come Beer Bar easy. suggest an establishment that takes its beer But if there’s reason to believe Hidden House will thrive, look no further than the drinking seriously. But the sign for the bar owner, the mononymous Ming – Lü Dongming, if you must – who apprenticed under itself suggests otherwise. Perched above the door, the bold black lettering of ‘Come “The most important thing is I want the bar to be comfortable for all my guests, in- Beer Bar’ is embellished with some kind of cludingChad Lager myself,” at Fubar Ming when says, it and opened he means in 2009 it. One as this Thursday city’s first evening, (unofficial) we saw speakeasy. him toss out stylistic white liquid dripping off it. Puerile a drunken laowai who was giving those around him too much lip. thoughts cloud our mind. Perhaps the offender came from Heaven Supermarket, located 50 meters up the Maybe it’s supposed to be the foam of a street; or maybe he had one too many street pours, since apparently selling Black frothy lager spilling over the edge of a vessel Russians off sidewalk cabinets is now a thing around Sanlitun. You see why we wonder or maybe it was a last-minute decision aloud whether Beijing’s boulevardiers have enough taste? Nonetheless, the point is: how by some uninspired graphic designers. A many bartenders do you know who’d actually throw out a paying customer? For Ming, Hidden House represents the latest in his ongoing quest to perfect the onto the street. This bar is giving out all cocktail bar. It’s what he loves: “If you made me stop working, I don’t know what I’d do,” sortsflamboyant of strange neon signals. glow spills We’re out enticed from Come in for a drink. liking. The eponymous Ming Bar came next, but it only has eight seats and requires a Come sits at the north end of Beiluoguxi- keycardhe says. Revolutionto enter. Hidden was his House first splits venture the but difference, it became both too exclusive popular and yet open.noisy forIn these his ang and despite its diminutive size we’re early days (the place opened January 3) Ming himself is often behind the counter doing immediately presented with the dilemma of the mixing. three different seating options. There’s the Signature cocktails include the smoky whisky sour, made with 40mL of Talisker and roadside beer garden, the indoor bar area 10mL each of vermouth and Drambuie. It goes down as quickly as a smoothie, with a tart or a cozy little mezzanine. It’s warm out, so sweetness. Interestingly, considering the proliferation of whisky bars, Ming claims he’s we opt for a few stools under the shade of more of a rum guy (the Ron Zacapa 23, for instance). Try his rum negroni, made with Ha- a parasol in the hutong. Plus, the pink and vana 7 and Italian vermouth (Carpano Antica Formula). If you do prefer whisk(e)y, go for blue light-soaked interior, coupled with the Sazerac, which might be the best in town (just our humble opinion; we’d be happy to music that sounds like it’s being streamed entertain dissenting views). Most cocktails begin at RMB70 with RMB20 off during their from a Gongti club, is a bit intense. It feels daily happy hour, 5-8 pm. like a disco from Scarface shrunken down to > wed-Sat 5pm-2am, Sun-tue 5pm-1am, 39 Xindong lu, chaoyang 朝阳区新东路39号 (8418 5718) watches over the bar and Brazilian beer postersfit in a holiday with curvaceous cottage. A stuffedwomen tiger’sin bikinis head are stuck to the walls. This is a man’s bar – a permed man, with a moustache and gold chain, who likes smoking menthol cigarettes and listening to the latest Duran Duran album on his Walkman. The twin fridges at Come are well stocked and the beers varied. We pop a Cherry Kriek (RMB20), before things get a little messy with a Sticky Toffee Ale (RMB20), and then we just have a Vedett (RMB25). There’s no microbrewery here but they didn’t become popular in Beijing until 2012 and we very much get the sense that Come is trapped somewhere in the late 80s. We’ve moved on. > daily 3pm-2am, 42 beiluoguxiang, dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷42号 (137 0124 9570)

56 MAY 2014 new bars » EAT & DRINK 5F Model Workers Club

by Oscar Holland U photo by CHEN L by photo

Were it not hidden around a corner and up an elevator, 5F’s mes- meric entrance alone might attract enough custom to secure the club’s position in Beijing’s volatile nightlife market. One cannot help pulsating peristalsis of purple lights delivering us from the bowels ofbut The be drawnPlace. It’s in bythe its sort LED of configuration;entrance you would the long expect passage at an like estab a - lishment frequented by the Jetsons, had they used birth control and decided to spend all their space money on Grey Goose. The purple theme continues within, mostly thanks to some intense neuro-trip visuals and an impressive light setup sending - lic pillars. The club’s layout is not dissimilar to that of a gig venue, fluorescent shards shooting over heads and bouncing off metal balcony from which to observe the revelry below. It is well suited with a wide stage at the front and a second floor acting as a viewing in this instance the party is fueled by some dance-inducing (though notto a particularlyhigh-profile inspired,DJ – one worth we feel) seeing commercial as well as electro. hearing – though But there is a central design feature less bound to the physical environs – beautiful people. They are everywhere; furnishing trendier (though markedly less attractive) onlookers lining the bar.the stage, It is unclear the dance whether floor theseand the veritable tables dividing deities have them been from enlisted the from local model agencies on the premise that the good-looking are unavoidably drawn to one another. We can only report what we see, bearing jaws in equal measure. whichWe is retreat flowing to hair, the lounge perfectly-made bar at the faces back andto sip chiseled, on German stubble- beer (from RMB80; most cocktails in the RMB80-100 range) amid credible sound system sends through pleasant wamounts of sub- bassleather without sofas, reducingwine displays conversation and jellyfish-esque to an exchange chandeliers. of meaningless The shouts. Sure, it’s all a little ostentatious – we would expect no less. But it is both more intimate than neighboring Spark and less gaudy than some of the Gongti set. The space has potential, though this is only a fraction of the battle. Whether 5F can join the ranks of Beijing’s nightlife institutions will depend on whether people keep coming back to the area without being lured by bigger and brighter rivals. After all, these 三色莲花印度餐厅雅秀店：5F Yashow Market 朝阳区工体北路 58 号雅秀服装市场五 > daily 8pm-4am, 5/F, building a, the place, 9 guanghua lu, chaoyang 朝阳区光华路9 秀水二号店：Xiu Shui 2, 14 Dong Da Qiao Road, Chaoyang 号beautiful世贸天阶a people座5层 (65 can87 2 9be68 )a fickle bunch. 朝阳区东大桥路 14 号

MAY 2014 57 COMMUN I TY COMMUNITY « tiger father LET’S TALK ABOUT SEX On Second Thoughts I'll Let Doctor Wife Field It...

BY TREVOR MARSHALLSEA

“We got pregnant the first time after our first child was born!’ I told a male relative recently. ‘So did we!’ he said. Their kids are twelve and five…”

As a columnist on children, it falls to me on the subject of sex. discussed openly and maturely, with not to address the issue of kids and, roughly When our eldest, Lani, was six, she knew much giggling allowed. Whilst this has been speaking, where they came from. babies came out of hospitals, but wanted hard for me, harder still was that we even “Australia” is my favorite answer when more details. I thought I explained well had to use real names for things. I thought mine ask me. So is “Wait til your mother gets which bits went where, until Lani recoiled we’d just call them “things.” home.” She’s a doctor. She knows about this in horror. When I was eight, our Catholic school sort of thing. split the third-grade boys and girls for a No, I’m not that repressed. But nor are “special talk.” Certain kids had been getting we, these ‘modern parents’ who espouse “A man and woman have to do that?!” lewd in the bike shed. letting kids watch their conceivers show “Preferably.”“Yup!” “Today,” winced Brother Kevin, “I want how it was done. God, perish the thought. “In frontthe nude?!” of all those people at the hospi- to talk to you about your penises.” All 60 of us stared blankly ahead, or years of parenthood, when sexual frequency Things have moved on since then. This goesThen quite again, naturally thinking and back ridiculously to the first down,few columntal?!” recently revealed the third grader’s The Hutong’s Summer Fayre you’d take anything you could get and idea of sex – in which a man “puts his penis Kevinturned ploughed to our neighbor on. We didn’tto say know.“Our what?!” At all. wouldn’t care who was in the room. It could in the lady’s vagina” and, despite this Finally“You he know! stooped Your to penises!” slang, and Brother we all got Inaugural Summer Jamboree for all the Family be your own parents. But I shouldn’t go on, presumably being a normal man without it. He then went on to make his point, which By will philipps or our house might be a bit silent for the super powers, “stays there for about an hour was completely lost, as we were by then too next few days. and then takes it out.” busy giggling. Although, if I did want to go on, I might Still, for Lani and sister Evie, the concept Four years later a traveling sex educa- say my wife should have known better. of sex remains similar to how middle ages tion show came to town. Mum ordered Dad Doctor Wife assured me there was no way seafarers considered the edge of the earth – to take me. And that he did… to within about 200 meters of the venue, where he conclud- arrived. Our kids are now eight and seven. ed we would never get a parking spot and Youwe’d do conceive the math. again so soon after our first eavesdroppingmysterious but recently,definitely “there’s gross. a thing promptly returned us home. There he faced Parenthood does bring unique feelings. called“Lani!” ‘striptease.’ I overheard It’s where Evie say a woman while takes the wrath of my mother. Brave man, actu- When else can you boast and bemoan at the ally. same time? Lani gasped. But there was more. off her“And clothes there’s in a front job where of all theseyou can men!” do this Ordered to the back of class as punishment for something,My education I landed finally beside came inthe fifth ‘S’ edition grade. “We got pregnant the first time after our More complexities have arisen, such as a of an encyclopedia. I turned to the most- thisfirst waschild a wasgroovy born!” coincidence I told a male but thenrelative I questiontoo!” Evie about said. sex with relatives. rememberedrecently. “So did– when we!” his he wifesaid. startedI thought this “No you can’t, because the baby would entered a brave – and gobsmacking – new low growling sound – that their kids are come out in-bred,” explained Doctor Mum- worldthumbed of strange part of thewords. book And and actions. – oh my! I my. Evie’s face bent in half. No need for such furtiveness these days. The good news is you can look back Thank God. Think of all the laughs my folks andtwelve laugh. and Parenthood five. and sex might for said of this bouncing baby baguette. missed. a long time seem as mutually exclusive as “No,”“It comes said outMummy, wrapped “I mean in bread?!” if relatives she > Trevor Marshallsea was a foreign correspondent parenthood and sleep, or parenthood and make a baby its genes will be weak.” in Beijing in the 1990s and returned a decade later. romance. But, believe me, it gets better. Now Evie’s head came off. “It’s a baby, This time around he stays at home to grow the kids. If it doesn’t, well at least your kids make wrapped in bread, wearing jeans?” Read more of his domestic adventures at www. you laugh – ironically, no more sharply than With their mother a doctor, sex has been thetigerfather.com.

58 MAY 2014 health »COMMUNITY Crowning Glory Why Pre-Surgery Dental Procedures Matter

By Chao Qun

Few of us are lucky enough to have a job Wang believes that the clinic gives people surgery. But some dental clinics either we truly love but SDM Dental’s patients the feeling of being at home, regardless of don’t take the pre-surgical examination (and their teeth) will be glad to know that whether they are administering or receiv- seriously or overlook existing conditions, 45-year-old Medical Director, Dr. Wang ing the treatment. claims Dr. Wang. This can in turn lead to Chen, is one of them. “We value good communication here,” complications or even endanger the pa- “Every morning when I wake up, I feel says Dr. Wang. “Every time a patient con- tients life. motivated to start the day’s work early,” sults with me, I will explain the pros and One of the most severe consequence he says. “I think that is what it feels like to cons of the procedure [because] for me, is implant failure or the use of poor- know you have the right job.” they are not just my clients, but more like quality prostheses that only work for a One of the sources of his enthusiasm friends and family.” limited period of time or fall off straight is that doctors and patients at his dental Now with six clinics in Beijing, the den- after surgery. There are also a series of clinic trust and respect each other, he says. tal group attributes its steady growth to post-operation complications, such as the Even though the dentist’s chair is often one its attention to detail and professionalism. collateral damage to the sensitive nerves of of people’s least favorite places to recline, Dr. Wang cites the strict checks under- the neighboring teeth. taken before implant surgery as evidence “I follow the procedure strictly before of SDM’s thorough and holistic approach. carrying out surgery,” he says. “Making Before the procedure, he explains, patients sure my patients are in the best condition are required to have a thorough physical to be operated on is the key to our success. check-up, which includes tests for infec- If the surgery is done in a less professional tious diseases, blood sugar levels, blood hospital and by less skilled doctors, pa- pressure and cardiac disease, as well as tients may face very severe consequences.” a CT scan, teeth-cleaning and checks for sDm Dental has six locations in periodontal disease. Beijing, for more information Patients who have certain conditions visit www.sdmdental.com Dr. Wang 王琛 should not be allowed to undergo implant The Hutong’s Summer Fayre Inaugural Summer Jamboree for all the Family

By will philipps The Hutong’s Summer Fayre (that’s a Badr of CuJu Bar with some trademark traditional English way of writing ‘fair’, Moroccan snacks and Chef Reshma Kahn not a winged mythical pixie creature) who’ll be making some traditional Bombay brings the idiosyncratic British celebration street food. Beijing is lucky to have such a of summer (yes, they have one) to a varied collection of cooks on offer; it’s the courtyard in Beijing. Cricket, steam coming together of the community that has engines, strawberries and straw hats… all made the Hutong’s previous Winter Fayres typical of an English summer fayre – and all unlikely to feature at The Hutong’s more for summer. internationally-minded jamboree. suchIt’s a success. great for 2014 the wholewill be family their first(we one Instead, this cosmopolitan summer remember the summer fayres of our festival will bring together a number of childhood fondly) and just because we’re local culinary artisans, restaurateurs all grown up now doesn’t mean we can’t and pillars of the Beijing community in take part. Just expect the unexpected. celebration of a long, glorious summer “Each year at the Winter Fayre we get ahead. Katherine Schub, culinary manager surprised by unexpected visitors,” Schub of the Hutong Kitchen, tells us there’ll be tells us. “Christmas carolers serenading the “an eclectic mix of locals, curious tourists crowd with beautiful songs and Santacons and Beijing foodies who all want to barging in to sing over them. It’s always socialize, drink and eat on a sunny rooftop a hoot and who knows what potential terrace.” surprises will occur this summer.” Maybe Some of the vendors making it down we’ll see that steam engine after all... are the Jing-A Brewing Co., Andy’s Craft > The hutong summer Fayre; sunday, may 25, Sausages, Chef Johanna de la Torre, known 11am-5pm The hutong, 1 Jiudaowanzhong hutong, for her empanadas with spicy aji sauce, Dongcheng 东城区九道湾中巷1号 (6404 3355) c hman © 2012 H elen Cou

MAY 2014 59 Advertorial

HarMoniCare’s

Healthy Food Map Grilled Cod with Olive Oil As a deep-sea fish, the cod is rich in quality proteins For Future Moms and DHA (docosahexaenoic acid) that HarMoniCare recommends for good fetal health. Sufficient intake of polyunsaturated fatty acids is important as helps the development of both the brain and optic nerve system. This dish is available at Windy City, Xiaoxiang Jiayu Village, 9 Yongtaizhuang Beilu, Haidian 海淀区永泰庄北路9号潇湘甲鱼村院内 (6299 3777)

Beijing HarMoniCare is a Women and Children’s Hospital focused on international- standard medical services for pregnant women and babies from both China and the international community. Advanced medical services and the principle of ‘ ’ are central to every department, ensuring that patients feel at home. Locatedcustomer close to the first Olympic Park and surrounded by open green spaces, HarMoniCare is an ideal choice for expectant moms. > 2 Xiaoguan Beili, Beiyuan Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区北苑路小关北里甲2号 (6499 0000, www.hmcare.net)

Hospital reception Ham and Egg Vegetable Sandwich The quality protein in ham and egg can be easily ab- sorbed by pregnant women, according to maternity experts at HarMoniCare, while the vegetables provides vitamins, minerals and dietary fiber. Paired with a glass of milk this could make a perfect, healthy breakfast. This dish is available at Laker’s, 240 Chengfu Lu, Haidian 海淀区成府路240号 (6261 5515)

Waiting area

Patients' private room

60 MAY 2014 Advertorial

Borscht Usually made from cabbage, carrots, potatoes, tomatoes, onions, celery and beef, the mixture of fresh vegetables and lean meat make this soup a great choice for expectant mothers. HarMoniCare suggests this classic Ukrainian dish, as it is rich in protein, iron, zinc and many other vitamins and minerals. This dish is available at Queen’s Café, S9-33, 3 Floor, Building 9, Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区9号楼3楼S9-33号 (6416 1928)

Steamed Perch In traditional Chinese food and medicine theory, perch meat has warming qualities and, according to HarMoniCare, can stimulate your appetite. The fresh- water fish is also believed to help stimulate the secre- tion of breast milk. This dish is available at Meinanhe Thai Restaurant & Bar, inside the hall of Stellar International Cineplex, Building 8, Shijiecheng Shangjie, 8-9 Jinhui Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区金汇路8-9号世界城商业街8号楼星美影城1楼大厅内 (8590 7598)

Pork Ribs and Corn Soup This simple soup made from pork ribs, corn and carrots comes recommended by HarMoniCare doctors as it will nourish the body and help you and your unborn baby maintain nutritional balance. This dish is available at 翠清酒家, 113 Chaoyangmennei Beixiaojie, Dongcheng 东城区朝阳门内北小街113号(东四五条东口) (8402 7450, 8402 7455)

Spaghetti Vegetable Salad A spaghetti dish with onions, tomatoes, black olives, bell peppers, sour cream, Parmesan cheese and black pepper contains staple carbohydrates, vegetables and dairy products and is a rich source of protein, calcium, and vitamin C and B. HarMoniCare recommends all of these, as they are vital for healthy mothers-to-be. This dish is available at 意粉屋, B05, Building 1, New Yansha Mall, 1 Yuanda Lu, Haidian 海淀区远大路1号金源新燕莎MALL1楼B05门(8887 5607)

* That’s Beijing cannot guarantee that the dishes displayed here appear exactly as they will in our featured restaurants. 2014 MAY 61 Pick of six art exhibitions

Olga Rodina, Pereslavl-Zalesski Zhang Hui, Blueprint

Dialectical Territories Zhang Hui: Plaza Landscapes and Abstraction Apr 19-Jun 22, Long March Space, 798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 长征空间朝阳区酒仙桥4号798艺术区 (5978 9768) Apr 20-May 24, Intelligentsia Gallery, 11 Dong Wang Hutong, Dongcheng 先智画廊东城区东旺胡同11号 ( 183 1075 4745 )

Photo by Filipe Braga, courtesy of the artist and Galerie Nirvana of the White Ape, Wu Jian’an Chantal Crousel, Paris

Wu Jian’an: Transformation- Danh Vo: We the People Recent Works Apr 30-Aug 14, Faurschou Mar 29-May 18 Chambers Fine Art, Red No.1-D, Foundatino Beiijing, 798 Art District, Caochangdi, Chaoyang 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 林冠艺术基金会朝阳区酒仙桥路前波画廊朝阳区草场地红一号D座 (5127 3298) 2号798艺术区 (5978 9316)

Wang Tiande May 5-6, Today Art Museum, Pingod Community, 32 Baiziwan lu, Chaoyang 今日美术馆朝阳区百子湾路32号苹果社区 (5876 0600)

Li Mingwei: Sonic Blossom Apr 26-May 18, Ullens Center for Contemporary Art, 798 Art District4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 尤伦斯当代艺术中心朝阳区酒仙桥路 4号798艺术区 (5780 0200)

62 MAY 2014 Events are editors’ picks of the best activities and are not comprehensive. To list an event, email [email protected]. Events For some details, see Listings. MAY 1 travel MAY 1-24 NIGHTLIFE ART Gig: Official Strawberry After Party Exhibition: Landscapes and Abstraction The electronic dance stage of Strawberry With a range of photography, painting Festival will carry on into the early morn- and sculptures, the exhibition challenges ing at Dada with music and visuals. the territorial boundaries that stand be- > RMB50; 10pm; Dada (see listings for tween landscapes and the abstraction of details) contemporary art. > 4pm; Intelligentsia Gallery, 11 NIGHTLIFE Dongwang Hutong, Dongcheng 东旺胡同11号 183 1075 4745, http:>www.car- Concert: Magic Mexico Concert gocollective.com/intelligentsia The Mexican Institute of Sound presents Magic Mexico Concert, offering a mix of traditional Mexican folk style with MAY 2 electronic, hip-hop and even Bollywood sounds. NIGHTLIFE > RMB80 (door), RMB50 (presale before Music: Remedios and the Harradons midnight of Apr 30); 8pm; Yugong An Anglo-American duo creating origi- Yishan (Tickets at yugongyishantickets. nal works of whimsical indie fluff and taobao.com, see listings for details) psychedelic folk. Talented players and songsters, Robin Koob and Dan Taylor each dabble in a mixture of vocals, gui- MAY 1-4 tar, violin and harmonica. EAT/DRINK > Free; 9pm; The Bookworm (see listings for details) Eat: Long Weekend Brunch Enjoy the fresh air of the holiday weekend with brunch on Capital M’s terrace MAY 3 and one of Beijing’s best views. Chef Gary has all your brunch favorites (and NIGHTLIFE beautifully executed) from benedictines Gig: Grunge Music Festival and flapjacks to fry-ups. An opportunity for all those who are fa- > RMB248 (2 courses), RMB288 (3 natic about grunge and garage punk to courses); 11.30am; Capital M, 3rd Floor, hear real voices of the underground. 2 Qianmen Pedestrian Street (6702 2727, > RMB60 (presale/student), RMB80 (at [email protected]) door), free (for those born May 3); 3.30- 11.30pm; Mao Live House (see listings MAY 1-5 for details) SPORTS Gig: Orphaned Land The spearhead of the ethnic metal move- Hiking: Badain Jaran Desert Hike ment in the Middle East, the pride of Four full days of hiking and camel riding Israel’s folk metal scene, Orphaned Land, from oasis to oasis in the world’s fourth promise to deliver a very different brand largest desert. Features thrilling jeep of hard rock. rides in and out of the world’s largest > RMB150 (door), RMB100 (presale be- sand dune. fore midnight of May 2); 8pm; Yugong > 9.30am; Meeting point: Jianguomen Yishan (see listings for details) subway station exit; for more information and reservations visit www.chinahik- ing.cn MAY 5-30 ART MAY 1-7 Exhibition: Victor Hugo, The Ocean ART Man Known as a poet and political essayist, Exhibition: Lost Way Victor Hugo is now presenting his work In this solo exhibition by Chinese artist as an artist. This exhibition features a Zeng Jianyong, the theme of “getting selection of work on Hugo’s relationship lost” steers his retrospective view on ALL MONTH with the ocean. traditional landscape painting. > Free; 8am-9pm; Alliance Francaise > Tue-Sun, 10.30am-5.30pm, closed dur- (Xihai), 103 Denei Dajie, Xicheng 法语联 ing holidays; Tokyo Gallery + BTAP, E02 盟西城区德内大街103号 (6553 2678) Taoci Third Street , 798 Art zone E02, 4 DAYTRIPS: BANYAN TREE Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥 ART 路4号798艺术区内陶瓷三街E02 RIVERSIDE, TIANJIN Exhibition: Chinese People and the The large leathery leaves of South East Asia’s banyan trees are likes nature’s para- First World War MAY 1-18 sol. The shade they provide is a much sought-after commodity along the banks of Discover how 140,000 Chinese were re- the muddy rivers in those sweltering and sweaty climes. Tianjin’s Hai River doesn’t cruited to fight in France during the First ART have many real banyan trees lining its waters these days (in fact we’re not sure it World War. To mark the centenary of the Exhibition: Regarding Matisse and Jazz ever did), but The Banyan Tree Riverside Tianjin Hotel continues its namesake long conflict, French students in China have As well as displaying one of Henri and storied tradition of offering travelers some respite from the elements. gathered material on Chinese soldiers Matisse’s (1869-1954) most prominent The upscale hotel has 159 rooms with contemporary oriental stylings that of- who worked in France providing new and exciting works, Jazz, West-Easy fer a cooling effect that a banyan tree leaf could only ever dream of. Located in the insight into historical events too often Gallery hosts a suite of 20 prints that former concession area, the hotel is just a gentle stroll away from the city’s main ignored. have been perceptively described by art sights, but if you’d rather stay on site there’s a gallery, spa, pool and health club to > Free; Mon-Fri 8am-9pm; Beijing critics as work that “teaches the eyes keep boredom at bay. Language and Culture University, to hear.” But the food and drink options are really worth the voyage over from Beijing. Building 2, 15 Xueyuan Road, Haidian 海 > Fri, Sat and Sun 1-7pm; West-East The Bai Yun Chinese fine dining restaurant is a must. Cantonese and Tianjin- 淀区学院路15号北京语言文化大学2号楼 Gallery, A5001 Jiuchang Art District, influenced cuisine, like sautéed snow beef with garlic and spring onion and Wangjing, Chaoyang (Chinese double-boiled black truffle with sea snail, with a riverside view and served safely 15911090204, English 13693669719) under the shade of the Banyan Tree. > 34 Haihe East Road, Hebei District, Tianjin 天津市河北区海河东路34号 (+86 22 5861 9999)

MAY 2014 63 Events

MAY 7 eat / drink MAY 10 & 24 NIGHTLIFE COMMUNITY Music: Folk Song Circle Simply Shakespeare – The Bookworm’s Bring your guitar, banjo, fiddle or spoons Writing Group for a night of free and friendly music No matter if you write for fun, for friends where Beijing’s folk and bluegrass musi- or you’re putting together the next cians get together to jam. prize-winning novel, join fellow writers > Free; 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see list- in this bi-weekly workshop. You can also ings for details) take the opportunity to put your prose to the test with peers. To join, email NIGHTLIFE Mario Perez at [email protected]. > Free; 11am; The Bookworm (see list- Gig: Black Water ings for details) Formed in 2009 in China, Black Water are back in the capital delivering authentic Irish music at Salud. After a string of concerts in festivals, bars, and con- MAY 11 cert halls, including performance Presid ART ent of the Republic of Ireland, the band Dance: Kalakshetra Indian Dance returns to Beijing for a free show. The world-renowned Kalakshetra > Free; 9pm; Salud (see listings for Repertory Company offers a once-in- details) a-lifetime opportunity to experience the magic of Indian classical dance and Bharatnatyam. Tickets to the event are MAY 9 given to the first 500 requests emailed to NIGHTLIFE [email protected] > Free; 6.30-8.30pm; Poly Theatre, 14 Gig: Devils at the Crossroad Dongzhimen Nandajie, Dongcheng 东城 To hell and back, the Devils have re- 区东直门南大街14号保利大厦1楼 turned with a vengeance. With new blood, they are ready to once again set the stage on fire at what is sure to be an may 5 EAT/DRINK epic event. Get ready for a most unholy Eat: Mother’s Day Brunch ceremony of rock ‘n’ roll debauchery. Enjoy an unforgettable Mother’s Day > 10pm; Temple bar (see listings for DRINK: DK1308 ROOFTOP KICKOFF at Kerry’s Kitchen. Moms will be given details) Of all the places to watch live football outdoors this summer, the newly-opened VIP treatment with complimentary pink roof terrace at German brewery DK 1308 is among the city’s very best, unless of cocktails and a special flower delivery Gig: Deaf Heaven course, you plan on watching the mighty Beijing Guoan. DK’s proximity to the while Dads and the rest of the family can Deaf Heaven embarks on a worldwide decorate a special cake just for you. tour playing a kind of black metal that Beijing Workers Stadium, results in Guoan’s live televised games running with a 30-second delay, meaning you’ll hear the noise of the crowd, before you see the > RMB214-538 per person; Kerry Hotel forever changed the landscape of rock (8565 2788, see listings for details) music. goal. Still, when the beer tastes that good, who cares? > RMB140 (door), RMB100 (presale > see listings for details before midnight of May 8); 9pm; MAY 15 Yugong Yishan (yoopay.cn/event/ deafheavenbj, see listings for ART details) NIGHTLIFE Music: Sound of Leipzig One of the most exciting string quartets DJ: Mickey Zhang on the international chamber music Every month, Beijing techno DJ Mickey scene, the Leipzig String quartet is Zhang lights up Lantern with techno touring China with a program includ- music and the latest sounds of the un- ing Mozart, Beethoven, Schnittke and derground in Lantern’s mini room. Dark Mendelssohn. and powerful. > RMB80-280; 7.30-9.30pm; National > RMB20; 10pm; Lantern (see listings Centre For The Performing Arts (NCPA), for details) 2 Xichanganjie, Xicheng 西城区西长安街2号

MAY 10 NIGHTLIFE COMMUNITY DJ: Andy Rourke [The Smiths] DJ set Books: Book Swap and Board Games Andy Rourke, bass player from The Meeting Smiths spins jams from his vinyl collec- Hundreds of books available in English, tion with support from DJ Compact Dicks French, Dutch and Portuguese. Come and Metro Tokyo. Hang the DJ, indeed. over and check it out – it’s a fabulous > RMB 60; 9.30pm, Dada (see listings opportunity to offload anything taking for details) up space on your bookshelves. > Free; 2-6pm; The Local Bar and Grill, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝 MAY 16 阳区工体北路4号院 (6591 9525) NIGHTLIFE Party: Friday Ska Party NIGHTLIFE For one night only, 2Kolegas will turn Gig: Pixelord, 813, Saburov into a ska bar with Early Bus and Mi Tang (Hyperboloid Records Moscow) Xian Sheng (TBC) getting their skank on. One night, three Russian producer/DJs, MAY 16 > RMB40; 10pm; 2Kolegas (see listings one location. Quirky, off-kilter and bright for details) bass music and, we’re told, a new genre called internet ghetto. CLUBBING: PINK PARTY AT THE Gig: Juveniles > RMB 60; 10pm; Dada (see listings for With electronic-pop crafted on clas- details) sic synthesizers, this French trio pays WORLD OF SUZIE WONG homage to its Manchester idols, The Festival: Black Sheep Night Vol. 2 Be tickled pink by the enigmatic Suzie Wong at the Chaoyang club’s ninth annual Smiths and New Order, while reworking Black Sheep, a party project hailing from pink party. We are informed that in previous years the event has attracted over them into a distinctively Parisian sound. Rome, returns with some more veritably 1,000 people dressed to the nines in the event’s eponymous color. This year prom- > RMB120 (door), RMB80 (presale/stu- thumping beats. Featuring music from ises to be no different so enjoy Beijing’s brightest dress code with your finest pink dents); 9pm; Yugong Yishan (see listings one of the leading figures in China’s dresses, shirts and wigs. Balloons, decorations and feathers will be abundant and for details) electronic music scene, Mickey Zhang. we think you can guess what color they’ll be. Hold on to your jaunty hipster hat. > RMB40; 10pm; 2Kolegas (see listings > 8pm-late, RMB100, including one cocktail. The World of Suzie Wong Club, 1A for details) Nongzhanguan Road (west gate of Chaoyang Park), Chaoyang 朝阳区农展馆路甲1 号朝阳公园西门 (6500 3377, www.clubsuziewong.com)

64 MAY 2014 Events

> RMB100-680; 7.30-10pm; National MAY 17 Art Centre For The Performing Arts (NCPA), National Centre For The Performing Arts NIGHTLIFE (NCPA), 2 Xichanganjie, Xicheng 西城 Gig: Stoner Rock, Ska Punk and Metal 区西长安街2号 (186 0020 8126; book- Night [email protected]) Three bands: Never Before, Devils At The Crossroad and The World of End, unleash metal, hard rock, ska punk and MAY 22 stoner rock in what promises to be a fiercely energetic live show. COMMUNITY > RMB50; 9pm; 2Kolegas (see listings Talk: Traditional Chinese Medicine for details) In this seminar, a Chinese medicine specialist will cover the basics of acu- Gig: Tortoise puncture and TCM, including methodol- Tortoise revolutionized American indie ogy, how it works, how to use herbs rock in the mid-90s emphasizing a va- aand some health tips for everyday life. riety of left-field genres from the past Limited seating. 20 years. Expect the very best from six > Free; 10-11.30am; International SOS, studio albums’ worth of almost entirely 105, 1 Building, Kunsha Center, 16 instrumental output. Xinyuanli, Chaoyang 新源里16号琨莎中 > RMB200 (door), RMB160 (presale 心一座105室 (seminar@internationalsos. and limited); 9pm; Yugong Yishan, com) (see listings for details, tickets online http:>newnoise.taobao.com) MAY 23 COMMUNITY NIGHTLIFE Film: The Lucky One DJ: Bok Bok An HIV-positive Chinese woman recounts UK producer, DJ and label boss Bok Bok her story of a struggle with poverty and brings bass and dark jams off the back of a judgemental society. Chinese with his newly-minted second solo EP which English subtitles. Screening followed by we trust will be coming with him the a Q&A session with director He Xiaopei. MAY 23-July 31 vinyl bag. > RMB50 including soft drinks > RMB80; 9pm; Dada (www.wooozy.cn, (Reservation required); 7-9pm; Culture see listings for details) Yard, 10 Shique Hutong, Dongcheng 东 Nanluoguxiang 城区石雀胡同10号 DJ: Ralph Theater Festival Kicking off three different musical projects in his Spiral Energy tour, producer MAY 21 This year’s Nanluoguxiang Theater Festival (NTF), a series of events that spans Ralph lands in Beijing to celebrate and drama, dance, Chinese opera, lectures and forums will take place over two months. perform his latest EP. Four DJs from COMMUNITY Now in its fifth year, the festival will see guests arrive from Japan, the UK, France, GoaProductions are coming in support. Workshop: Leaves, Roots, Stems and Sweden, Switzerland and Israel. The festival acts as a rare platform for young direc- > RMB 90 (door), RMB60 (presale Spikes tors to showcase their talents, and is an opportunity for theater lovers in Beijing to before the midnight of May 22); 10pm; Stumped by the vegetable stand at the engage in meaningful and abtruse dialogue. Yugong Yishan (see listings for market? Always wondered what exactly > For the full line-up visit http://site.douban.com/penghao/, or follow That’s details) you’re supposed to do with lettuce fruit Beijing’s oﬃcial wechat account. NTF takes place at the Penghao Theater, 35 stem? The Hutong is here to de-mystify Dongmianhua Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区东棉花胡同35号 (6400 6472) those roots, leaves and spikes. With a EAT/DRINK focus on fresh and local produce, you’ll Drink: Wine Talk learn what a mountain yam is, how to Gather in a friendly, relaxed atmosphere prepare lotus root and what sauce to NIGHTLIFE to learn and enjoy a wide selection of pair with winter melon. warm-climate wines, led by the experts > RMB280, RMB220 for members; 2.30- at Mercuris. 5pm; The Hutong (see listings for details) > RMB138 (includes the tasting wines); 7.30pm; Capital M, 3rd Floor, 2 Qianmen Comedy: Punchline Comedy: Whose Pedestrian Street. (6702 2727, reserva- Line Is it Anyway? [email protected], see listings Four brave performers arrive from for details) England with no script and not the faint- est idea of what the performance will hold. Encouraged by a (hopefully) sup- MAY 23-24 portive crowd, the four performers will NIGHTLIFE create whole sketches and comic dramas inventively based on audience sugges- Party: 2Kolegas’ 9th Anniversary tions. Funny, surreal and unpredictable. Birthday Bash > Early bird tickets RMB300 (RMB350 Free up your calendar on May 23 and 24 at door); 8.30-10.30pm; Home Plate for 2Kolegas’s ninth birthday party. Over BBQ Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, 10 top acts will be ripping up the stage Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (139 during the two-day affair on a gloriously 0639 0437, [email protected] We have a pair of green lawn. GWMF tickets to > RMB80; 9pm; 2Kolegas (see listings Talk: China Goes West give away. To win, for details) How and why have Chinese products email bjeditor@ entered western life? In this lively dis- urbanatomy.com ‘GWMF’ cussion, Joel Backaler tells the story of June 1 MAY 24 Chinese companies’ investment in the NIGHTLIFE developed countries of Europe and North American. He will also provide DJ: GREAT WALL Gig: Tina Sprinkles 3D Party! practical advice for governments, com- Visual artist Tina Sprinkles is putting panies and organizations in both China MUSIC FESTIVAL together a special night of unique, self- and the West on how to minimize the made 3D visuals around accompanied by threat and maximize the benefits of Sure, it’s a long way from the city center, but a music festival in the shadow of music from the Acid Pony Club crew. these investments. the Great Wall of China, especially one with such a stellar line-up of big and hard > Free; 10pm; Dada (see listings for > RMB50, RMB40 for members; 7.30pm; to pronounce European names, is worth making the trip (and draining the credit details) The Bookworm (see listings for details) card) for. The heavy-hitters include Armin Van Buuren, Paul Kalkbrenner, Afrojack, Anja Schneider and Technasia. In terms of people who get paid a lot of money to NIGHTLIFE play loud music, these guys are at the very top of their game. There will be epic Music: INTRO Festival Official After MAY 21-25 stages, there will be lasers, there will be lots and lots of people, and there will be Party ART long queues for taxis home. Brace yourself, we have a feeling this one’s going to All of the DJs featuring at INTRO will play get messy. Stage: Verdi´s Opera Il Trovatore across the Lantern’s patio, bar, mini room > Great Wall Festival takes place at Juyongguan Great Wall on June 1; RMB580 Il Trovatore (The Troubadour) is an opera and main room together to celebrate the (VIP RMB780), Bus tickets RMB80; All can be bought online at www.greatwall- in four acts by Giuseppe Verdi based on annual music feast. Antonio García Gutiérrez’s successful musicfestival.com > RMB80, RMB20 showing your INTRO tick- play El trovador (1836). et; 9.30pm; Lantern (see listings for details)

MAY 2014 65 Events

COMMUNITY SPORT EVERY SAT Talk: A Journal About China by a French Writer COMMUNITY Vincent Hei, a French writer who has Sports: Mashup Men’s Flag Football been in China for 10 years, will talk League about his journeys and the discovery of Mashup Flag Football is back, bringing self-recognition through different land- you the best American Flag Football in scapes in China. Beijing. Get ready for action-packed, fun- > Free; 2pm; National Library, 33 filled games all season long. Zhongguancun Nandajie, Haidian 中国国 > RMB600 (regular season); 1-3pm; Ditan 家图书馆学津堂北京海淀区中关村南大街 Park West Gate, Ditan Sports Stadium 33号(8854 4114) (www.mashupsports.com) MAY 25 EVERY SAT AND SUN COMMUNITY EAT/DRINK Walk: Past and Present of Dashilar, Eat: Champagne Afternoon Teas Join this walk (and talk) with historian Capital M’s popular afternoon tea just and preservationist Matthew Hu, that got a little more luxurious, with the addi- covers Dashilar’s colorful past and its tion of a glass of Champagne to its array controversial, reconstructed present. of freshly baked scones (served with clot- > RMB150 (proceeds will be donated ted cream and jam), delicate finger sand- toward heritage preservation in Beijing); wiches, delectable cakes and pastries. 4pm. (reservations required: 6702 2727, > RMB238, RMB138 (without [email protected]) Champagne); 3-5pm; Capital M (see listings for details, 6702 2727, reserva- MAY 28 [email protected]) NIGHTLIFE ALL MONTH Music: Brazilian Guitar Duo The Brazilian Guitar Duo’s innovative COMMUNITY program features a seamless blend of Fashion: Belita Jewelry Moving Sale traditional and Brazilian works. Their As Belita Jewelry moves out of its current success has lead to a global tour sched- Sanlitun location, all jewelry and hand- ule and a growing catalogue of critically- bags are on sale. Up to 70 percent off acclaimed recordings. and if you buy one set of earrings get an > RMB85; 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see extra pair free. listings for details > Block 43, Sanlitun Beijie Nan, Chaoyang (Beneath Eric Paris Salon) 朝阳区三里屯 NIGHTLIFE 北街南43号楼 (巴黎爱丽克美发沙龙一层) (186 1092 1585, www.belitajewelry.com) Gig: Tribesmen Unique central Asian folk music mixed with reggae and Spanish rumba fla- EAT/ DRINK menco. Drink: It’s Wine Time! > Free’ 9.30pm; Salud (see listings for Enjoy four red and four white South details) African wines, with each at RMB15 per glass. A rather good deal we’d say. > 5-7pm; Pinotage (see listings for MAY 29 details) NIGHTLIFE DJ: Dubatonik ART A night of exotic tropical sounds, includ- MAY 5-11 Exhibition: Broached Retreat ing latin funk, cumbia, afro-beat and “Broached Retreat” takes Melbourne- some straight-up rare Mexican under- based design studio Broached ground sounds. HOT YOGA MASTER Commissions’ first two highly successful > Free; 10pm; Dada (see listings for collections – Broached Colonial and details) COMES TO YIHE 42° Broached East – and situates them in a new context: a pavilion constructed out The hot yoga craze continues to sweep China for the very simple reason that it is of paper, stone and steel. MAY 30-June 1 a great deal better for you (and your joints) than the room-temperature variety. > UCCA Long Gallery, Ullens Center for NIGHTLIFE Enthusiasts of the discipline will be pleased to hear of the May arrival of one of Contemporary Art, 798 Art District, 4 the world’s true hot yoga masters – Tomasz Goetel. Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路 Gig: The 4th Hanggai Music Festival The Polish-born teacher, who now runs his own yoga club in Thailand, has 4号798艺术区 (5780 0200, visitor@ucca. Organized by Inner Mongolian legends taught across the world for over 10 years. But for one week only, Goetel can be org.cn, www.ucca.org.cn) Hanggai, this three-day event brings found at the Solana and Sanlitun branches of Yihe 42° delivering his 13-lesson together some of the best bands from “Evolution Hot Yoga” course. Exhibition: 5000 Names around the globe. Folk and rock. The exhibition by Dutch-born, Beijing- Accredited by the wonderfully-named International Yoga Alliance, Goetel > Three-day pass RMB260 (presale only), based curator, scholar and dealer Hans will share drilling techniques and sophisticated yoga lectures in his third stint at RMB100 (presale), RMB130 (door); van Dijk considers his own legacy as he 9-12pm (May 30); 5-12pm (May 31/June Beijing-based yoga studio. looks at the major artists and scene he 1); 2Kolegas (see listings for details) The course was co-created by Yihe 42°’s founder, Cherry Wang, who invited has championed. The exhibition consists That’s Beijing down to her center’s Sanlitun branch for a session. Despite having of three parts – a vast collection of docu- absolutely no experience and all the flexibility of a stubborn EU bureaucrat, we mentary material, works by Chinese art- EVERY WED AND SAT donned our sports gear and took to the mats. Within seconds, our hard-drinking, ists and Van Dijk’s comprehensive archive COMMUNITY fast-living ways were seeping from every pore. of over 5000 Chinese artists. But despite her evident expertise, instructor Wang was very accommodating > UCCA Great Hall, Ullens Center for Tour: Emperors, Eunuchs & Concubines of our beginner status. As well as giving bi-lingual instructions, she gave us per- Contemporary Art, 798 Art District, 4 Learn about the nightmares that forced Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang , 北京市朝阳 Emperor Yongle to move his capital to sonalized tips throughout and provided simpler alternatives when the positions contorted our limbs too far in directions we hadn’t considered possible. 区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 (5780 0200, Beijing; find out why men were willing [email protected], www.ucca.org.cn) to become eunuchs in order to access With our endorphins in rare overdrive, we left the session with a palpable the inner realms of his palace; and see sense of euphoria (and only limited post-workout muscle aches) and returned to why being an imperial concubine was That’s Beijing towers filled with the energy and exuberance required to write cut- EAT/DRINK such a dangerous job. ting reviews and send a couple of droll tweets. Eat: Rice Dumplings for Dragon Boat > RMB270 (adults), RMB135 (kids under Even if you miss Goetel’s course we certainly recommend booking a class. Festival 14), includes native English speaking The sessions at Yihe 42° are, without a doubt, a better workout than we usually Jump on a dragon boat and enjoy a guide and Forbidden City entry tickets; get on the 5-a-side soccer pitch at Chaoyang Park. The dimmed lights and calming variety of glutinous rice dumplings. For Wednesday 10am-12pm, Saturday 1.30- atmosphere were also definite improvements. RMB188 you will get a deluxe box of six 3.30pm, (138 1777 0229, info@newman- For more information visit www.yh42.com or call the Solana studio on 5905 6067. different types of rice dumplings, both tours.com, www.newmantours.com) salty and sweet. > RMB188 -1,680; Kerry Hotel (8565 2788, see listings for details)

66 MAY 2014 CITY SCENES

The Honorable Tony Abbott, Prime Minister of Australia, unveils Servcorp Guess what the free gift was at the Correspondent Banks’ dinner at GTC China’s new flagship location in the CBD to the delight of assembled onlookers. Residence Beijing last month?

Heyrobics! founder Linus Holmsäter gets the party started in front of an Ever wondered what those astronomical international school fees go towards? Wellington School Tianjin’s blockbuster estimated 10,000 runners at the 2014 performance of Oliver! was worthy of a West End show. Beijing Running Festival.

In a dazzling, star-studded ceremony to rival the Academy Awards, Lanson Place’s Larry Stradmoor is awarded ‘Best Hotel Despite spending most of the night at the bar. Randy Abel Stable remain randy, able and stable General Manager of China’ at the Hotel Starlight Awards. at Sound of the Xity, Temple Bar.

MAY 2014 67 Happy hours Meal deals Weekly Specials Brunch Food and Drink Ladies' nights

Chapter Sunday Brunch Experiment at The Conrad, Beijing

Why is brunch at a luxury hotel an experiment, you inquire? Well, because at Conrad, they serve the brunch inside of the library – quite literally, the food is served from between the bookshelves. Intrigued? You should be. The brunch eschews the wasteful gluttony of other hotel buffets, opting instead for a more paired-down high-quality assortment, hence the name ‘chapter’ rather than say, ‘encyclopedia’. There’s ocean-fresh seafood; a variety of delicious hot dishes; show-trolleys and Godiva’s melt-in-your-mouth desserts. There’s also signature cocktails, Champagnes, wine and beer. > RMB438/pp (including free flow of cocktails, virgin and alcoholic, fresh juices, local beer and soft drinks); RMB538 pp (with free flow of Champagne and house wine); 11:45am-2:30pm, every Sunday; Conrad Beijing, 29 North Dongsanhuan Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区北东三环29 号 (6584 6270)

MONDAY to FRIDAY

Monday > RMB118/person, Mon-Fri, 12pm- 29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路 Ladies enjoy three Kumamoto oysters 2:30pm, Agua Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 29号香格里拉酒店1层 (6841 2211-6727) with a glass of Prosecco for RMB150, Mai Bar Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北 4-11pm. Buy two cocktails, get one free. 路81号那里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188 ) Black Sun Bar > 2-1 Dongzhimen Outer Street, Chaoyang > 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区 Pints of Guiness at RMB35 all day long. 朝阳区东直门外大街22-1号 (6416 5499) 北锣鼓巷40号 (138 1125 2641) Greyhound Café > Chaoyang Park West Gate, Chaoyang The World of Suzie Wong’s Only RMB28 for a Tsingtao or Bud, and 朝阳区朝阳公园西门 (6593 6909) Free drinks for girls, 9pm-12am. Au Goulot RMB38 for a mojito or dry martini, 5-7pm. > Gate 8, West Gate of Chaoyang Park, Performers at Au Goulot’s open mic > Greyhound Cafe (see listings for Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园西门8号 (6500 night receive one free beer. details) wednesday 3377) > 43号Zhonglouwan Hutong Dongcheng Slow Boat Brewery 钟楼湾胡同41号 Monday to Saturday Flights of three, five or ten 200ml thursday samples are 20 percent off. Parlor Twilight > 56 Dongsibatiao, Dongcheng 东城区东 Vics Buy-two-get-one-free on selected Mon-Sat before 8pm and all day Sun, 四八条56号 (6538 5537) Free drinks for ladies until midnight. cocktails. RMB20 off cocktails. > Inside the north gate of the Workers’ > 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸 > 0102, 3/F, Bldg 5, Jianwai SOHO, 39 Mao Mao Chong Stadium, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内福二村39-8 (8444 4135 ) Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝 Cocktails RMB35, 7-11pm. (5293 0333) 阳区东三环39号建外SOHO5号3层0102室 > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Monday to Thursday (5900 5376) Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区交道口南大街板 Bar Blu 厂胡同12号 (6405 5718) Free cocktails for ladies until midnight. XIU > 4/F-6/F Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Hou Jie, Buy-one-get-one-free on selected drinks, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯酒吧北街同里4 6-9pm. Tuesday Elements Free mojitos, champagne and cosmos, 层-6层 (6417 4124) > 6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2Jianwai Dajie Flamme 9pm-1am. 北京柏悦酒店, 建国门外大街2号6楼 (8567 Two-for-one steak all day. > 58 Gongti Xi Men, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 Opus Terrace 1108) > 3/F, S4-33 Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun 体西门58号 (6551 2373) Ladies enjoy free cocktails; on Fridays, it’s Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19 bachelors night, where chaps get 50 percent Monday to friday 号三里屯太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608) Eudora Station off beer and burgers at the same times, 5-8pm. Ladies ordering food from the ladies’ > Opus Bar & Terrace, 48 Liangmaqiao One East El Gran Bocado Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路48号 12pm-2:30pm, two-course set lunch: night menu receive selected free drinks, Just RMB10 per taco – order as many as (5695 8888) RMB 118/person net 8pm-12am. you want. > 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, > 6 Fangyuan Xi Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区芳 > 1/F, Just Make Bldg, Xingfucun Xian North Dong Sanhuan Road, Chaoyang 园西路6号 (6437 8331) Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路杰 All ladies can drink selected martinis, 朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿作大厦1 (6416 1715) cocktails and mixed drinks for free All with 酒店2层 5865 5030 Four Corners Ladies get 15 percent off red wine. live music and DJ, 9pm-12pm. cheap shots and drink deals at 4Corners’ > Xian Bar, 1/F 22 Jiuxianqiao Road, Agua tuesday to Friday Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥22号北京东隅酒 Agua’s new set lunch menu is RMB118/ weekly celebration of KTV. S.T.A.Y Restaurant 店一层 (8414 9810) person for three courses, including a > Dashibei Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石 Three courses including coffee and tea range of traditional Spanish dishes like 杯胡同7号 (6401 7797) for RMB388/person with 15 percent paella with slow-cooked eggs, and service charge, 11.30am-2.30pm. sobrassada sausage with potatoes. Starfish > Level 1, Valley Wing, Shangri-La Hotel,

68 MAY 2014 Events

Every day

The Big Smoke Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 Nasi Campur Malaysian set: two meats Daily 4-7pm, 20 percent off all cocktails, 里屯太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608) 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) and vegetables each, varying daily. With house wines and beers. soup, appetizer for RMB78. Curry sets > 57 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳 Modo Urban Deli Isola from RMB55-65 区幸福村中路57号楼利世楼 (6416 2683) 4-7pm cocktails and house wine RMB25 11:30am-3pm. Main course, appetizer > See Listings for details and beer RMB15. and dessert buffet, plus coffee/tea +soft Blue Frog > S10-31, 3/F, Bldg 8, Sanlitun Taikooli drink for RMB138 Beijing Marriott Hotel Daily 4-8pm, buy-one-get-one-free all South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 3-6pm Fashion high tea, desserts, taster Daily 11.30-2pm, dumplings, noodles drinks. 三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区8号楼S10- spoons, elegant canapés, sandwiches, and desserts, including juice or tea, > S4-30, 3/F, Building 4, Sanlitun Taikooli 31 (6415 7207) plus tea/coffee. RMB118. Sun/Sat 11.30-2pm, dim sum, South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 5-8pm Happy hour, two-for-one on lobster and unlimited beer, RMB168. 三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区4号楼3层 Mosto selected cocktails, house wines, > 26A Xiao Yun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区霄 S4-30 (6417 4030) 6-7pm discounts on cocktails, wine and prosecco and mixed drinks with 云路甲26号北京海航大厦万豪酒店(5927 beer. complimetary canapes. 8888) Centro > Nali Patio 3rd Floor, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, 6-10:30 Dinner set menu, 2-course Daily 5-8pm, two-for-one deals. Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花 RMB238, 3-course RMB258. Vivid > 1/F, 1 Guanghua Lu, Shangri-la’s Kerry 园 (5208 6030) > N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo Li North, Daily, 6pm-10pm, two-for-one drinks. Centre Hotel Beijing, Chaoyang朝阳区 Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里 > Vivid, Level 5, Conrad Beijing, 29 North 光华路香格里拉北京嘉里中心大酒店1层 NOLA 北区N3-37和 47商铺 (6416 3499) Dongsanhuan Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区东 (6561 8833 ext. 42) 3-8pm. Sun-Thu, half price on Pabst 三环北路29号北京康莱德酒店5层 (6584 Blue Ribbon, Tsingtao and all cocktails The Rug 6310) Chill including daiquiris. A la carte brunch menu offered daily Daily 4-8pm, RMB10 off any beer. > A-11 Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai from 10.30am-5pm, ranging from Taverna > 2 Andingmen Xidajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区 Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街秀水 RMB48-138. Daily 11am-2.30pm. Two courses + 安定门西大街2号 (6405 9575) 南街A-11 (8563 6215) > 1/F, Bldg 4, lishui jiayuan, Chaoyang coffee/tea for RMB78 add a glass of Gongyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳 wine for RMB40 more. Cuju R Lounge 公园南路丽水嘉园4号楼1楼(8550 2722) > Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝 Daily 6-9pm, buy-one-get-one-free draft Daily 6-9pm, two-for-one standard 阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8882) beer, mixed drinks and soft drinks. drinks and cocktails. Bene Restaurant > 28 Xiguan Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区 > 4/F, Renaissance Beijing Capital Hotel, Daily 11.30am-2pm. RMB98 includes Transit 西管胡同28号 (6407 9782) 61 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝 antipasto with main course, pizza or Daily 12pm-2.30pm. Choice of 阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店4 pasta. appetizers, mains, rice or noodles with Flamme 层 (5863 8112) > Sheraton Dongcheng, 36 Dongcheng dessert for RMB88. Cocktail, beers and wine by the glass are Beilu, Dongcheng 东城区北三环路36号 > N4-36/37 Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 50 percent off from 3-7.30pm daily. Transit (5798 8888) Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 > S4-33, 3/F, Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Gongti Daily 6pm-7:30pm, two-for-one. 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) > N4-36, Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 Cafe Sambal

Weekend saturday Senses and Prego saturday to sunday > LG51, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Sanlitun Taikooli Sun 11.30am-3pm, Retrolicious Champagne North, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号三 R Lounge Brunch, international and Asian specialties Agua 里屯太古里北区地下层51 (6417 0808) Selection of drinks for free all night. with free flow champagne, wines, cocktails Sat-Sun, Agua’s Sombresa Weekend > 61 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang and juices for RMB 458. Prices subject to 15 Brunch is RMB198 per person and Enoterra 朝阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店 percent service. includes five tapas to share (portioned Sat-Sun 11am-4pm, a la carte brunch for 4层 (5863 8241) > The Westin Beijing Financial Street, 9B depending on party size) a main course RMB75-130. Free flow sparkling wine for Financial Street, Xicheng 西城区金融大街 and one dessert. Add RMB98 for free an extra RMB80. all weekend 乙9号(6629 7810) flow red or white sangria or Agua de > 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Valencia (cava + orange juice). Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花 One East Seasonal Tastes > 12-2:30pm (free flow until 3pm), 园4楼D308号 (5208 6076) Fri-Sun, 6pm-10:30pm, Australian Sun 11.30am-3pm Unlimited buffet for Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Organic Beef, buy one get one free. RMB428-498 per person plus 15 percent Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花 Eudora Station > 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, surcharge. 园4楼D308号 (5208 6188) Sat-Sun 10am-3pm, breakfast buffet with North Dong Sanhuan Road, Chaoyang > Westin Chaoyang., 7 North one main and free flow juice or coffee 朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿 Dongsanhuan Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区东 Aroma for RMB98. 酒店2层 5865 5030 三环北路7号(5922 8880) Sat-Sun 11.30am-3pm, international > Opposite Lido Palace, 6 Fangyuan Xi buffet starting at RMB518 plus 15 Lu. Chaoyang 朝阳区芳园西路6号(6437 Elements Sureño percent service charge. 8331) 6pm-10pm, build your own salad with Sunday lunchtime, three or four courses Ritz-Carlton Beijing, 83A Jianguo Lu, fresh and seasonal vegetables. RMB98+ for RMB298 or RMB328 with desserts. China Central Place, Chaoyang 朝阳区建 Sui Yuan > 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, Both include soft drinks and juices, 国路83甲(5908 8161) Sat-Sun and public holidays 10.30am- North Dong Sanhuan Road, Chaoyang champagne package is RMB200, cocktail 2.30pm, unlimited dim sum for RMB128 朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿 package is RMB150. Prices subject to 15 Café Sambal plus 15 percent surcharge. 酒店2层 5865 5020 percent service charge. Sat-Sun, RMB98, Café Sambal is rolling > Hilton Double Tree, 168 Guang’anmen > Bldg 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang out weekend brunch with a rotating Waidajie, Xicheng 西城区广安门外大街朝阳区三里屯路11号1号楼 (6410 5240) menu of Malaysian delicacies, like 168 (6338 1999 ext. 1726) sunday Kapitan and Nasi Lamak. Three courses Qi Vasco’s plus coffee, tea or fruit punch. Yi House Sun 11.30am-2pm, all-you-can-eat dim Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet > 43 Doufuchi Hutong, Jiugulou Dajie, Sat-Sun international set menu for sum including one double-boiled soup with free-flow champagne for RMB458 Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同 RMB308. for RMB288 per person. Add a bottle of plus 15 percent service charge. 43号 (6400 4875) > Grace Hotel, Bldg 2, 1 706 Hou Jie, Dom Perignon for RMB1988 for two. > Hilton Beijing Wangfujing, 8 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 Art District, Chaoyang > Ritz-Carlton Beijing Financial Street, 1 Wangfujing Dongjie, Dongcheng 东城区 Colibri 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号院798艺术区706后街1 Jin Cheng Fang Dong Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 王府井东街8号(5812 8888 ext. 8411) Sat-Sun 9am-2pm, any dish from brunch 号 (6436 1818) 西城区金城坊东金融街1号 (6601 6666) menu for RMB48, and add a cup of coffee for RMB58.

MAY 2014 69 Expensive...... ¥ Expense Account ...... ¥¥ Recommended ...... * listings Top Ten ...... ** Resembling something between a night- OPEN DOOR restaurant club and theater, the Opposite House’s basement restaurant proves to be more The Hot One Hundred than just style over substance with their About This guide represents our editors’ range of classic dishes. Don’t ask about the double A, though. top 100 picks, and includes some That’s > Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite House, Beijing advertisers. Restaurants rated(*) Sanlitun Bei Lu 三里屯路11号院1号楼瑜舍酒B1楼 have been personally reviewed by our (6410 5230) experts, and scored according to the cuisine, experience and affordability. Najia Xiaoguan (Imperial Dining) A hugely popular Manchu restaurant, first opened by an emperor’s doctor, you CHINESE choose your dishes from a carved wooden tray: 18-hour stewed huang tanzi, fatty Contemporary & Mixed Cuisine ox hoof,crispy fried shrimp, chicken with walnut. Reservations are required to get 8 Qi Nian (Cantonese/Sichuan/Hunan) a place in this two-storey, quintessentially The New World Hotel’s flagship restaurant Imperial China restaurant. has classic Chinese cuisine in abundance, > Daily 1130am-10pm. 10 Yonganli (south of the as well as some vitality-restoring medicinal LG Twin Towers, west of 119 Middle School), soups. (Their decent wine list is just as Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国 effective.) 门外大街永安里10号(双子座大厦南侧, 119中学西侧) >Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:15pm, 5:30-9:30pm, Sat/Sun (6567 3663, 6568 6553) 12-2:45pm, 5:30-9:30pm; 2/F, New World Hotel, 8 Qinian Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区祈年大街8号新世界 Wu Li Xiang (Cantonese, Sichuan) * 酒店2层 (5960 8822) Impressive views don’t detract from the exquisitely presented cuisine of Chef Kam, Bellagio (Taiwanese) especially the famous dim sum. Swanky Where else can you carve through moun- classics from all the main culinary regions tainous shaved ice desserts and suck down of China, like Sichuan and Hong Kong, creamy bubble teas at 5am? A favorite including “Monk Jump Over the Wall,” among the city’s hip and young, this braised pork in oyster sauce. swanky Taiwanese restaurant chain is best > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm. 2-3/F, Traders Upper enjoyed long after dark. East Hotel, Beijing, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang > 6 Gongti xilu Chaoyang District 6 号工体西路 District 朝阳区东四环北路2号北京上东盛贸饭店二三 (6551 3533) See www.bellagiocafe.com.cn for more 层 (5907 8406) locations Peking Duck Din Tai Fung ¥ (Taiwanese) Da Dong * Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da Dong guarantees slick carvings of Beijing- style roast duck and delectable wrap fillings. The venue’s a class act and the plum sauce is hard to follow. > Daily 11am-10pm. No.22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng District 22号东四十条甲 (5169 0328 See www.dadongdadong.com for more locations Daily 11am-10pm)

Duck de Chine ¥ * Good duck is meant to show your guests how wonderful you are, as much as the food. Duck De Chine does that in spades, with fantastic presentation of its crispy, succulent duck (RMB188). > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm; 6-10.30pm. Courtyard 4, 1949 The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881): 98 This Taipei-based franchise impressed Ken Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District 东城区金宝街98号 Hom enough to call it one of the best 10 (6521 2221) eateries in the world, back in 1993. Famous for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao Shanghai or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s

a n e ll i always a long wait. Jade Garden (Shanghainese) ss > Xinyuanli branch: 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm Southern cuisine in a sophisticated setting. Weekends 11.30am-10pm. Yu Yang Branch (渔阳 Jardin de Jade Jasmine-tea Smoked Duck 店): 24 Middle Street, Xinyuanxili, Chaoyang District, (RMB78), Xiaolongbao dumplings (RMB Beijing 朝阳区新源西里中街24号 (近渔阳饭店) (6462 22), Eight Treasure Rice (Babao Fan, RMB

emi ca no emi by 4502) > Additional branches in Shin Kong Place; Parkview Green; Grand Pacific Mall Xidan; Modern 22) and more. Particularly convivial on the Plaza Zhongguancun (see www.dintaifung.com. weekends with Cantonese families gather- p hoto cn for details) ing for dim-sum feasts. > Daily 11am-10.30pm Bldg 6, Jiqingli, Green T (Fine Dining) Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝 TUBE STATION Although the inspiration is ‘Tang Dynasty 外大街吉庆里6号楼 (6552 8688, for other locations bathhouse,’ the effect is more ‘Whoah.’ An visit www.jade388.com/su/index.aspx) indoor tea bath occupies a slate-tiled space Shanghai Min Next Stop - Lido scattered with artistic curios, along side a vegetable allotment, outdoor Jacuzzi, The Tube Station juggernaut marches on! It wasn’t long ago we were wooden trestle table and 1,500-sqm villa. The space has a design award by Wallpa- announcing the newest branch of the plus-size pizza chain in Sanlitun, but only per* magazine and came third in the Daily a few months later and they’re opening their latest – and very much greatest. Meal’s Top 101 Asian restaurants. > Daily 11.30am-11.30pm. 318 Hegezhuang Village, It won’t be long before there are more Tube Stations in Beijing than there are Cuigezhuang, Chaoyang District朝阳区崔各庄乡合 real tube stations in London (fact check: there are 270 tube stations in London 各庄村318号 (8456 4922 Ext 8, 136 0113 7132, 136 – maybe not). The new Lido branch is a behemoth of a pizza restaurant. It’s less 0113 7232; www.green-t-house.com) a hut – more a fortress of topping-smothered, thick-crusted pizza. There’s a de- The Horizon (Cantonese, Sichuan, Beijing cent range of sides and salads but the most exciting new addition to the menu Duck)* Kerry Hotel’s recently rennovated Chinese is Slow Boat beer on tap. This new branch in Lido could stake a claim for best restaurant has widened its predominantly sports bar in Beijing. It’s big enough to sit a good few hundred people; there Cantonese and Sichuan horizons to include are wall-to-wall screens for sports; a kids’ play area and plenty of terrace space dim sum, double-boiled soups and Peking Duck – and the roast bird here really is now that summer is here. We’re not sure if the pizzas can get any bigger but fabulous. Tube Station looks to be growing and growing. > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-10pm 1/F, Beijing Many swear this chain has the best Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu 光华路1号嘉里中心1 Shanghai-style hongshaorou north of the > Daily 10am-10pm, 6 Fangyuan Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区芳园西路6号1栋 5643 层 (8565 2188) Yangtze. The jury’s out, but its popularity 6755, 5643 6756, 400 8989 177 (Delivery order) remains. Jing Yaa Tang (Chinese, Peking Duck) > 0505, 5/F Raffles City Mall, 1 Dongzhimen Nan

70 MAY 2014 Listings

Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1号来福士购朝阳区光化路9号世贸天阶南楼L404A (6587 1431) 物中心5楼0505号铺 (400 820 9777) Additional loca- Additional venues in Sanlitun; Tai Koo Li Mall; Indigo OPEN DOOR tions in Financial Street; Jinbao Jie; Oriental Plaza; Mall (see www.middle8th.com for details) Sanlitun Soho; Xinyuan Nan Lu (see www.online. thatsmags.com for details) Southern Barbarian * Yunnan’s wide selection of savory, sour and Wang Jia Sha (Shanghainese) sweet, all in a smart hutong setting, with a Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with ton of beer selections to boot. Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crab- > Daily 11am-11pm. 107 Baochao Hutong, meat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同107 (RMB62) for a bit of Adam action. 号(6401 3318) > Reservation (86 10) 6416 3469 S1-30a Taikoo Li Sanlitun(on the third floor of i.t shop)朝阳区三里屯 Yun’er Small Town 路19号院太古里1号楼3层S1-30a号商铺 Folksy Yunnanese fare on Beiluoguxiang. Fragrant dishes including the jasmine bulbs Sichuan with scrambled eggs, lemongrass shrimp, and banana leaf wrapped bolete mush- Chuan Ban * rooms will keep us crawling back. This bright, modestly decorated dining hall > Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan District, 东城区北锣鼓巷84号 (8404 2407) restaurant. > Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; Sat- Dumplings Sun 7am-10pm 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区建国门内贡院头条5 Baoyuan Jiaoziwu 号 (6512 2277, ext. 6101) Famous for their rainbow of dyed dump- ll i cassane noe m i lings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under y We have a meal South Memory RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao voucher to give This chain restaurant redefines Hunan silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian oto b p h oto away. To win, cuisine, with exquisite food and an elegant options and authentic Sichuan food. email bjeditor@ atmosphere. The trademark shilixiang > Daily 11am-10pm. North of 6 Maizidian Jie, niurou (fragrant beef), duojiao shuangse Chaoyang District 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧 (6586 urbanatomy.com yutou (dual-colour spiced fish head) and 4967) ‘Niajo’ meltingly tender frog dishes are among the Niajo favorites with local gourmands. Mr Shi’s Dumplings * > Daily 11am-10pm. 2/F, 230-232, Fenglian Plaza, 18 The ultimate in Beijing-style dumplings, Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 they really don’t come better than this. Find Muchos Lunchos 朝外大街18号丰联广场2楼230-232号 (6588 1797 for it and you’ll never go elsewhere. other locations, visit www.southmemory.com) > 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同74号 Set on the third floor of Nali Patio, that bastion of Mediterranean lifestyle in Transit ¥¥ * (8405 0399, 131 6100 3826) Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and Beijing, Niajo makes for a cozy little setting to enjoy the epicurean delights of its equally hot girls. While the latter are up Hot Pot Spain. The traditional Spanish salad (RMB98) is superb with a flavorful blend to you, the creative minds at Transit have of fresh carrot and potato with soft, tender bites of tuna and boiled eggs; made some fiery additions to the classical, Ding Ding Xiang * chili-thumping canon, and they will charge Classier than most hot-pot joints, Ding Ding sautéed king prawns, paired with garlic and chili (RMB 108) are perfectly crisp you for that knowledge. But unlike many XIang features a spacious dining room of and fresh; rillete with acorn-fed Iberian ham, pork sirloin, duck and orange equally expensive joints, this is high-end sweaty-faced patrons enjoying high-grade compote (RMB95, above) is a lively composition of flavors while honey melon Chinese dining at its best. huo guo in their own individual pot. The > Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm. N4-36, Sanlintun Village delicious sesame sauce (the recipe is a with Iberian ham, arugula and honey (RMB98) cools your stomach with its mild North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里 closely guarded secret) is a Beijing classic. flavor and a balance of savory and sweet. Allow a meal at Niajo to break up 屯路11号三里屯Village北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) > Daily 11am-10pm. 2/F, Yuanjia International Apartments, Dongzhimenwai, Dongzhong Jie (op- your busy day, reinvigorating your taste buds as well as your spirit. Yu Xin posite East Gate Plaza), Dongcheng District 东城区 > Daily 12pm-11pm, 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北 Open since 1993, Yu Xin has a loyal fanbase 东直门外东中街东环广场对面元嘉国际公寓2层 (6417 through consistently offers authentic 9289, for other locations visit www.dingdingxiang. 路81号那里花园三层 (5208 6052) Sichuan dishes. Their liangfen – a jelly-like com.cn) substance cut into chunky strips and dressed in an addictive spicy sauce – hits Haidilao the spot. Also not to be missed are koushui Hot pot in China is like religion; everyone’s ji, mouthwatering cold chicken, and got their own brand. Either way, the raw shuizhu niurou, fiery boiled beef slices. meats and vegetables, cooked communally, Enjoy its rustic, intimate setting of bamboo is divine, and the outstanding customer cubicles and swift, friendly service. service makes Haidilao a fitting church > Daily 11am-10pm. 5A Xingfu Yicun Xili, Chaoyang > Daily, 24 hours. 2A Baijiazhuang Lu (beside No. 80 District 朝阳区幸福一村西里甲5号 (6415 8168 for Middle School), Chaoyang District 朝阳区白家庄路 other locations, visit www.yuxin1997.com) 甲2号 (八十中学西侧)(6595 2982, for other locations visit http:>www.haidilaohuoguo.com) Yuxiang Renjia Most branches maintain simple decora- Regional tions, with black-and-white photos of Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) * traditional houses, river towns in the south, Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the and strings of dried red chilis and garlic moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim hanging on the wall. So, too, is their menu: restaurant. Eastern European and Central old-fashion and reliably good. The lazi ji is Asian influences are evident throughout, crispy but not too greasy, the pepper-sauce with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes noodle, with spinach, is filling and refresh- livening up traditional Chinese favorites. ing. Assorted confections are guaranteed > 弯弯月亮 16 Dongsi Liutiao 东四六条16号 (6400- to offer comfort to numbed-and-burned 5281) tongues, too. > Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm 5/F, Lianhe Dasha (Union Da Gui (Guizhou) ll i cassane noe m i Plaza), 20 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nes- y 朝阳区朝阳门外大街20号联合大厦五层 (6588 3841 for other locations visit www.yuxiangrenjia.com) tled into a charming traditional alleyway. Munch happily into pickled greens and oto b p h oto Yunnan don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black sesame balls. They’re sensational. Dali Courtyard * > Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm. 69 Daxing Hutong, THE SWEET SPOT, If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口大兴胡同69号 (6407 1800) have to trust the staff: there’s no menu, the china world hotel it all just arrives in an intimate courtyard Makye Ame (Tibetan) setting. The price (RMB120pp) matches the Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine rustic ingredients. consists of more than just yak-butter tea, Have You Located Yours? > Daily Midday-2pm; 6-10.30pm. Gulou Dong Dajie, the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain 67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街小经厂胡同67号 (8404 1430) serves up nomadic classics such as curried potatoes and roast lamb. The original cosy We’ll start off with a great fact about China World Mall’s The Sweet Spot Lost Heaven ¥ (Yunnan, SE Asian) Xiushui location is great for winter. Bakery: it’s located where China’s very first Starbucks used to be found, before An emphasis on Yunnan characterises this > Daily 10-midnight, 11A Xiushui Nanjie, it was forced to close last year. (We’re quietly impressed by anywhere that can menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外秀水南街甲11号, (6506 9616) passage, with a grandiose yet usurp the US mega-franchise.) Sweet Spot is making a name for itself with its dark teak interior. Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang) * trademark cream horn cakes (this year’s cronut, perhaps?), which are curls of > Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till 1am). Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang restaurant crisp, flaky pastry that surround creamy filling of raspberry, chocolate, tiramisu, Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District 东城区前门东大街23号(8516 2698) serves some of the tenderest lamb skewers pistachio or mango. Want another great fact? The café claims to sell 10,000 around, matched by enormous servings of every month. Line up that number of cream horns end-to-end and they would Middle 8th Restaurant * dishes like dapan ji (a chicken, potato and Make room for the mushrooms – especially pepper stew), latiaozi (noodles with a spicy stretch around the Bird’s Nest stadium twice. They’re transfat- and additive- the Kungpao – at this busy chain. Hip and tomato sauce) and baked flatbread (nang). free; non-gluten options are also available at the Sweet Spot. Most importantly Nightly performances (starting at 7.40pm) slightly swanky, without being pretentious, though, they taste absolutely great (and that’s a fact). RMB27/piece, RMB88 for this is a celebration of all things ‘south of feature live music and belly dancers with the clouds’ – so try crisp-fried worms, or snakes – you might find yourself dragged a Rainbow Party Pack. on-stage to join in. “crossing-the-bridge” noodles, beef jerky- > Mon-Fri 8am-9:30pm, Sat/Sun 10am-9:30pm, The Sweet Spot Shop, EB118, style yak meat and fresh, wild herbs galore. > Daily 10.30am-11pm. Inside 7 Xingfu Yicun alley, opposite Workers’ Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang > The Place Branch: Daily 11am-11pm, L404A, South Basement 1, China World Mall Zone 1, Chaoyang 朝阳区国贸商城1区地下一层 District 朝阳区工人体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷内 Tower, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District EB118商铺 (6505 0885, www.shangrila.com/cn)

MAY 2014 71 Listings

(6415 5741) 区农展馆南里12号通广大厦1楼底商 (6538 9488) OPEN DOOR WESTERN Beiluo Bread Bar (Café) This local hipster café favorite offers in- Fine Dining house baked bread and sandwiches but we usually go for the hand-pulled noodles. Aria ¥¥ (European) * Gets cozy at night. A gold standard of opulence and, at > Tue-Sun 12-10pm. 70A Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng RMB1,100 for the Wagyu beef and starters District 东城区北锣鼓巷甲70号(近南锣鼓巷)(8408 around RMB150, the prices reflect that. 3069) In-house sommeliers help tailor your meal perfectly. Café Ricci (Contemporary Western, > Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight; Sat- Fusion) Sun 6-10pm. Second floor, China World Hotel, 1 An excellent example of how Italian sensi- Jianguomenwai Waidajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 bilities can meld peaceably into a Chinese 建国门外大街 (6505 2266 ext. 36) context, Ricci offers a range of fusion creations, like Sichuan spicy-chicken focaccia Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) * (RMB45) and a spicy mocha coffee. It’s a Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not paradise for those with a sweet tooth, too. here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact, > Daily 8am-9.30pm 1/F, Keji Dasha Tower D, Bldg meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the 8, Tsinghua Science Park, 1 Zhongguancun Donglu, Piedmont wine it is named after. Chaoyang District 朝阳区中关村东路1号清华科技园8

> Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz Carlton a n e ll i 号楼科技大厦D座1层 (8215 8826 http:>riccicafe.com)

Hotel, China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu, ss Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国路甲83号华贸中心丽思 Café Zarah (Café) 卡尔顿酒店内 (5908 8151) Red armchairs, table candles and a matching Gaggia machine harmonize the creamy, Brasserie Flo ¥¥ (French) * ca no emi by minimalist interior of this cafe, popular Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass with young professionals. The Austrian- fittings establish the Parisian bona fides; p hoto style breakfast sets here are the real deal, dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48 while Zarah’s coffee also trumps just about each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm. any in town. The grandeur is matched only by the ser- Caribeño > Daily 9.30am-midnight 42 Gulou Dongdajie, vice, and the prices reflect the authenticity Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403 of the experience. 9807) > Daily 11am-midnight. 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135, www.flo.cn/ Havana Good Time Element Fresh (Contemporary Western) brasserie/restaurants/beijing) Another import from Shanggers, this is Nestled among the soaring gray masses of the CBD lies an oasis of color in the boutique salads-and-sandwich lunching, Brian McKenna @The Courtyard ¥¥ (Con- with somewhat questionable price tags. temporary Western) * form of Caribeño. Complete with bright flags and scenes of Havana summers, The recent revamp also affected the latter. Innovative and creative dishes are de rigeur this taste of the Caribbean can whisk you away from the big smog, even if only > Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-11pm. at the Michelin-starred Irish chef’s reinven- 833, Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Village South, Sanlitun tion of this long-standing Beijing fine for a lunch hour. Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 dining institution. The restaurant’s new menu features a range of new central American Village南区8号楼833 (6417 1318) > Daily, restaurant 6pm-10pm, bar 5-11pm, 95 classics including the ropa vieja (RMB78), a hearty portion of shredded beef, Donghuamen Avenue, Dongcheng District 东城区东 MODO Urban Deli (Contemporary 华门大街95号 (6526 8883) peppers and fried mini green bananas with rice and black beans. Another eye- Western)* catching option is la reina del caribe (“queen of the Caribbean”) paella, the re- Yates Wine Lodge this is not. Unconven- Capital M ¥ (Contemporary Western) ** tional and great fun, this compact eatery The Art Deco interior, swish staff and gal reference a nod to the Cuban lobster sat atop the dish (RMB388 or RMB788 was designed around an ever-changing breathtaking views over the archery towers for two lobsters). selection of fine wines. Serves up fresh from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of The tangy sauce of the shrimp cocktail (RMB48) is perfect for dipping tapas style food and original finger foods. al-fresco dining, with world-class modern The luxury sandwiches are fantastic for European stylings and deliciously posh fleshy prawns but if you prefer your cocktails of the liquid variety, there’s a picnics, with the smoked salmon and the afternoon tea. Our 2013 editor’s pick for number of rum-infused classics to sip on. The sizable outdoor area should Cuban (RMB68), complete with crispy pork restaurant of the year. make for a great summer hangout, especially if it involves a piña colada served belly, is one of the best sarnies ever. > Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen > Sun-Thu noon-10pm, Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm. 3/F, Buxingjie, Chongwen District 东城区前门步行街2 in a whole pineapple. Sanlitun Village South(close to Element Fresh), 19 号3层 (6702 2727, www.m-restaurantgroup.com/ Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号 capitalm/home.html) > Daily 11.30-8.30. 1/F South Tower, China Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli, 三里屯Village南区3楼(近新元素) (6415 7207) Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东里8号院中海广场写字楼一层 (5977 2789) Mio ¥¥ Moka Bros (Contemporary Western) * Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with Power bowls, salads and wraps are the kind a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight There’s not enough of this in Beijing: a cozy Mosto ¥ (European, South American) of fare on offer at this trendy Nali Patio to your table. Chef Marco Calenzo crafts joint offering top-notch ‘California-style’ A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot, space, which also has a great selection of a superb squash tortellini by hand, and cuisine at bang-on price points. A fresh, thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for cakes and pastries if you’re feeling more pampers diners with desserts like the revolving menu has everything from burg- modernising South American-style dishes indulgent. deconstructed tiramisu. ers (RMB 45/65) to braised oxtail (RMB138) like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen. > Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am-11:30pm, >Daily, lunch 11:30am - 2:30pm, dinner 5:30pm to seared scallops (RMB148). > Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat noon- B101b Nali Patio South, 81 Sanlitun Beilu Chaoyang -10:30pm Four Seasons Hotel, 48 Liang Ma Qiao > Tues-Sun 11am-2.30pm, 5-11pm. West side of 2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, District 朝阳区三里屯路81号B101b南楼 ( 5208 6079) Road, Chaoyang District, 北京四季酒店亮马桥路48 Jiezuo Dasha, Xingfucun Zhonglu (next to Frost Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3 号, 朝阳区(5695 8888) Nails), Chaoyang District 朝阳区幸福村中路(Frost旁层 (5208 6030) Nasca Café 边)(6417 5430) Colorful and quirky shopping mall style S.T.A.Y. ¥¥ (French) Starfish ¥ (Seafood) * café, with Amazonian coffee, teas and Luxury dining with three-Michelin-starred Caribeño (Latin) Beijing’s leading oyster bar, Starfish is there’s a decent range of sandwiches and chef Alléno Yannick’s back-to-basics kitchen Heavy Cuban influence, but there are among the very best seafood restaurants pizzas, available for delivery. concept, managed by the youthful team dished from all over the Latin continent in town. Renowned for its friendly, warm > Daily 11am-10pm, B1/F, City Mall, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, of Maxime Gilbert as ‘Chef de Cuisine’ here. The Ropa Vieja (shredded beef on atmosphere, this stylish low-key restaurant Chaoyang 朝阳区新源南路1号都汇天地购物中心B1 executing the quarterly menus, and Florian potato) is excellent – as are the Mojitos. is great for late-night dates, or just hanging 楼 (6592 4537) > Additional branches in Sanlitun Couteau working the ‘pastry library.’ Classic > Daily 11:30am-9:30pm, 1/F, China Overseas Plaza, out along the large wooden bar and enjoy- South; Volkswagen Building, Liangmahe (see online. dishes usually include dishes such as steak, 8 Guanghua Dongli, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东里8号中 ing an Irish rock with a craft beer. thatsmags.com for details) foie gras, rack of lamb, plus a spit roast and 海广场北楼1层 (5977 2789) > 22-1 Dongzhimen Wai, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 grill for simple fine-dining. 东直门外大街22-1号(6416 5499) The Rug (Contemporary Western, > Daily 11:30am -2:30pm; 5:30pm-10pm; Sundays Chi (Organic, Fusion) Organic)* 11am- 4pm. Shangri La, Valley Wing, Level 1, 29 Hutong dining par-excellence, with organic Stuff’d (Contemporary Western) With ingredients supplied by local organic Zizhuyuan Road, Beijing 紫竹院路29号北京香格里拉 ingredients all locally sourced, from the The concept of Stuff’d is to simply stuff farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an 饭店 (6841 2211, Ext. 6727) owners of neighboring Saffron. one kind of food in another. From sausage emphasis on sustainability, this Chaoyang > Daily, opens 10:30am, last order 9:30pm, 67 calzone pizzas (RMB68) to scotch eggs – it Park café’s menu of locally milled bagels is Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥¥ Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道 all works. On-site micro brewery a bonus. a hit with green types, bored foreign moms (Contemporary Western) ** 营胡同67号 (6445 7076) > Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:45pm, 6-10pm, 9 Jianchang and freelance Macbook types. Setting is everything here, especially if Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭厂胡同9号 > 7.30pm - 11pm Daily. Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist Grill 79 (Steak) (6407 6308) Chaoyang Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite Chaoyang temple. The bold contemporary European With views this good, Grill 79 would prob- Park South Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园 cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service ably make it onto the list even if the food Yi House (Contemporary Western) 南路丽水嘉园4号楼(朝阳公园南门对面) (8550 2722) > alone is worthy of worship. was terrible. It’s something of a bonus then Nestled in the confines of the 798 Art Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6–10pm. 23 Songzhusi that the kitchen is superb, and supported District, Yi’s great tasting brunch is bettered Temple, Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng District 东城 by one of the most extensive wine lists in only by their wide range of cocktail concoc- Vineyard Cafe on the River (British) 区沙滩北街嵩祝寺23号 (8400 2232, www.temple- town. tions. Sundays offer jazz brunches with New Vineyard offshoot opposite of the Li- restaurant.com/) > Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. 79/F, lobster and champagne. Our 2013 readers’ angma River. Menu features British classics China World Trade Center Phase 3, 1 Jianguomenwai choice for Restaurant of the Year. like Fish & Chips and Bangers & Mash. The Contemporary Western Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸 > Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am. 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 breezy terrace is primed for a pint of the 大酒店79楼 (6505 2299 ext 6424) Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳 handcraft beer or a carafe of Pimms. Alfie’s ¥ (British) 区酒仙桥路2号院798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818) >Daily Tu-Fr 1130am-3pm 6pm-12am kitchen What’s all this about, then? British Missa (European) * closes at 10pm, Sa-Su 1130am-3ppm 6pm-12am, gastropub classics, (like pukker fish and Whether it is the tender, imported cuts of Café/Deli/Sandwich Liangmahe Nanlu, west side of Xindong Lu, across chips, RMB188), a swanky gentleman’s club meat or the long list of expertly made and the street from Yuyang Hotel, Chaoyang District, 朝 interior, and located in a chic modern art creative cocktails going down your gullet, Allday’s (Café) 阳区亮马河南路新东路西侧渔阳饭店对面(8532 5335) gallery-cum-mall. That’s what, mate. you can’t really go wrong at this refined Japanese-owned Allday’s is an oasis of > Daily, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, brunch served relaxed lounge like restaurant. Highly calm just outside the hustle and bustle of Wagas (Contemporary Western) on weekends, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, recommended Sanlitun. Plenty of options for a caffeine Quality eats with minimal pretension. This Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路9号芳草地L1-22 > Daily 6pm-late. 32-33, 3/F, Bldg 3, Sanlitun Village boost compliment a wide range of Western stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element (5662 8777) North, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯Village北区3 staples from the kitchen. Fresh offers some of the best and most 号楼3层32-33 (137 1851 7917) > Daily 7am-11pm, Unit 1, Tongguang Plaza, 12 affordable Western lunch options in town. Back Alley Bistro (American) Nongzhanguan South Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳 The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a

72 MAY 2014 Listings crowd pleaser. truffles. Burger King this ain’t. Assaggi ¥ * Spanish > Daily 8am-10pmS8-33, 3/F, 8 building, 19 South > Sun-Thu 11:30am-10pm, Fri/Sat 11:30am-midnight, This fine Italian spot in the leafy embassy Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯 B2/F, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Road 朝阳区东 district has one of Beijing’s best terraces for Migas ¥ * Village南区三层 (6416-5829) Additional location in 大桥路9号侨福芳草地大厦地下二层 ( 5690 7000) summer dining. The tagliata steak is worth The boys at Migas have turned a concept The Kerry Centre (see www.online.thatsmags.com a return visit. bar into a thriving Mediterranean res- for details) Chef Too ¥ > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm. 1 Sanlitun taurant, bar and party venue, and one of With its crisp white tablecloths and service, Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街1号 (8454 summer’s rooftop destinations. American/BBQ/Grill this upscale New York diner serves up some 4508) of the classiest burgers in town. > Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 The Big Smoke > Tue-Fri 11am-1pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am-3pm; Tue-Sat Bene ¥ * Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园6层 (5208 6061) Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and 5.30pm-10pm. Opposite the West gate, Chaoyang Chef Ricci will have you singing like a sopra- upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full Park, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园西门 (6591 no with his pork ravioli and prize-winning Agua ¥ menu evenings-only (also delivers rotisserie 8676) tiramisu. Excellent set menus (RMB588) and chicken via Uncle Otis). extensive wine selection. > Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm. Steak > Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails), Beijing Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring Road, 57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区幸 29 Grill (Contemporary Western) * Dongcheng District 东城区北三环东路36号(5798 福村中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268,www. Top-notch steak, along with just about eve- 8995) uncle-otis.com) ry other cut of meat found in the barnyard in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca. Cepe ¥ Weekends at Home Plate BBQ * > Tues-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm. 3/F Corad Beijing, 29 In a city inundated with Italian offerings, Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the Dongsanhuan Beilu. Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环 Cepe manages to stand out thanks to it’s popularity of this entry-level brick-smoker 北路9号1层 (6584 6270) attention to the smallest detail – everything barbecue joint, that blossoms in the sunny from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham months. Pulled-pork sandwiches are the Flamme (Contemporary Western) is import quality, and the wine is superb. Inﬁnite food RMB298 favorites, followed by baby-back rib racks, Expensive steaks are now invading Beijing. Consider it the culinary equivalent of a but lesser dishes like the rib tips, sides Flamme (pronounced ‘Flame,’ apparently) finely tailored suit. Inﬁnite drinks RMB168 and burgers are just as good. Beer and remains top value, however, especially on > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The Ritz- bourbons are taken care of, too. 2-4-1 Tuesdays, while bar staff maintain an Carlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, 4/F nali patio, sanlitun bar street > Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard eclectic (and genuinely exciting) cocktail Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District Tel: 5208 6188 (20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first right), menu. 西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街丽思卡顿酒店大堂 Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路35号院过霄云路 > Daily 11am-10.30pm Sun-Thur; 11am-11pm Fri- Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish (6601 6666) 路口,往北走20米,到第一个路口右转(5128 5584) Sat. S4-33, Third Floor, Village South, 19 Sanlitun invasion, Agua excels with reasonably Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 priced classics like suckling pig, chorizo Isola Bar & Grill VILLAGE南区3层S4-33室 (6417 8608): 269 Indigo and jamon. Isola’s elegant design, even by Tai Koo Li NOLA Mall, Jixianqiao Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙 > Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in the 桥路18号颐堤港商场269号 ( 8420 0270) North standards, is classic Italian panache – Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack, and so is the food. Beef carpaccio, burrata, 那里花园 (5208 6188) shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried chicken, Morton’s of Chicago ¥¥ (American) * Strozzapreti (handed twisted pasta) are jambalaya and decent-enough po’boys – Meat so tender the knife falls through it: all fantastic, but just as good is a classic Niajo ¥ * yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks, craft beers ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide Margherita pizza. and cocktail also make NOLA a popular praise. Expensive, but where else are you > Daily, 11:30am-10:30pm, N3-47, 3/F, Building watering hole. Great service comes as going to get steak this good? (Try the 3, Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang standard. RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash) District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里北区N3-37和 47 商铺 (www.gaiagroup.com.hk/isola-beijing, reserva- > Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. 11A > Mon-Sat 5-11pm, Sun 5-10pm. 2/F, Regent Hotel, [email protected]; 6416 3499) Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区秀水南街11 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District 东城区金宝街99号号 (8563 6215) 丽晶酒店二层 (6523 7777) Mercante ¥ * Tim’s Texas BBQ Steak Exchange Restaurant+Bar ¥¥ (Con- Old World family charm in an intimate temporary Western) * hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally, The bill is hopefully on the company kuai at service) slows with a rustic menu from Bo- this opulent eatery, where charcoal-grilled logna offering an assortment of homemade cuts of 250-day, grain-fed Australian Angus pastas and seasonal mains. start from around RMB428 and merrily > Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 (8402 spiral. But the meat is unquestionably suc- 5098) culent, and cooked exactly to order. Quality seafood and gorgeous desserts, too. Opera Bombana ¥ > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Head chef Umberto Bombana boasts three InterContinental Beijing Financial Street, 11 Jinrong Order the paella (their star dish) together Jie, Xicheng District 西城区金融街11号北京金融街洲 Michelin stars to his name, earned at his 际酒店 (5852 5921) wildly successful Hong Kong restaurant with some tapas and be automatically Otto e Mezzo. He’s the only Italian chef transported to Spain. With homely Mexican/Tex Mex to do so outside of his native land, and Mediterranean influences and a charming certainly the only one in Beijing. management, Niajo is a prefect option to Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex) > Daily, 12pm-10:30pm; LG2-21 Parkview Green enjoy a pleasant meal at the heart of Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+ Fangcaodi, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大 Sanlitun. Pro tip: a fantastic set-lunch deal imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the 桥路9号侨福芳草地地下2层21号 (5690 7177) is also offered. walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a > Daily 12.00am - 10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Who is Tim, you ask, and what’s his Texas bite of the custardy flan. Pizza Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6052) BBQ doing in Beijing? Providing all ya’ll >Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am to 2am, homesick ‘Murricans with the best damn S4-32 South Block, Sanlitun Village, 19 Sanlitun La Pizza home-style briskets, ribs and steaks – Lu,Chaoyang District, 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 German slow-cooked over a mesquite wood BBQ Village南区(6416 5212) – this side of the Rio Grande. Tex Mex and Drei Kronen 1308 * Margherita’s recommended, partner. El Gran Bocado (Mexican) > Daily 9am-midnight, Silk#2 building, 14 This unassuming little taquiera has a color- Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路14 ful menu of classic Mexican and Tex Mex 号秀水2号院 (6591 9161) dishes, and one of the best nacho plates we’ve had in Beijing. Union Bar and Grill > Daily 11am-midnight, 1/F, Just Make Bldg, The definitive US-style diner in Beijing, Un- Xingfucun Zhonglu 幸福村中路杰作大厦1层 (6416 ion’s extensive menu – from eggs Benedict 1715) to baby back ribs – covers all bases and hours, served by friendly staff. The warm French atmosphere tempts many to stay all day. > Mon-Fri 11am-11pm,Sat-Sun 11am-midnight. S6- O’Steak 31, 3/F, Bldg 6, Sanlitun Village South, 19 Sanlitun A well-cooked steak in Beijng isn’t all that Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 rare anymore, and here we have affordable Village南区6号楼3层S6-31(6415 9117) but quality cuts. Don’t be fooled by the Irish sounding name, not a pint of Guinness At the higher echelon of Beijing pizzeria is The Woods * in sight. this Sanlitun goldfish bowl with a New York native-owned, Manhattan-style > Daily midday-midnight, 55-7 Xingfucun Zhonglu, wood-fired oven and Neapolitan manners. restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrap- Chaoyang District, 朝阳区幸福村中路55-7 (8488 Further branch in Solana and buffet ers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple Authentic (in as much as any brauhaus 8250) restaurant in Sanlitun 3.3 with a Filipino cover band can be) displays than that. > Sanlitun Branch: daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. > Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101, Parnas ¥ 1/F, 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝 of armour and brewing kits draw regular No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, 朝外大街6号新城国际1号搂 Don’t be fooled by the Greek name – this 阳区三里屯路33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136 evening crowds for the superb pork 101 (6533 6380) Nali Patio is true Gallic gastronomy, albeit 5582) > Solana Branch: SA-48, 1/F, Bldg 3, Solana, 6 knuckle (RMB148) and heavy-duty helles with a hint of Asian fusion. Nice terrace bar Chaoyang Park Road 朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港湾3号 (pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed Burgers on the roof. 1层, SA-48 ( 5905 6106) La Pizza Buffet: 4F, Sanlitun on-site, RMB48-108). > Mon-Thu 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-9:30pm; Fri/ 3.3 Mall, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯3.3服装大 > Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti Blue Frog Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm; 1F, Nali Patio, 81 厦4层 (5136 5990) Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体东路中国红街5 This Shanghai hamburger franchise has Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北路号楼1层(6503 5555) been keeping Americans in China obese 81号那里花园一层 (5288 7665) Tube Station since it opened. Monday’s burger deal is Nowhere does gigantic toppen-laden pizza Paulaner Brauhaus always packed. La Taverne ¥ quite like Beijing, and these guys claim to The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses, > Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, S4 Tower, Slick service helps this faux-rustic lunchtime be the biggest in town. Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the 81 Sanlitun Village, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District favourite into our list, with typical dishes > Sanlitun 3.3 Branch: Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat/Sun hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the 朝阳区三里屯路三里屯Village三层S4 (6417 4030) including salmon steak, ribs and salads. De- 10am-11pm, delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm, provinces. It can be pricey but is usually Additional branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see pendable, slightly dull even, but solid fare. Fri-Sun 11:30am-11pm 3/F, 3.3 Building, No. 33 worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest. www.bluefrog.com.cn for details) > Daily noon-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 1949 The Hidden Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District 三里屯北街33号 > Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu , Chaoyang District 朝 3.3服装大厦3层3008号 ( 5136 5571, delivery 8989 Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基 Burger Bar 阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8882) 177) Additional branches in Gongti, Beida, Beitai, 饭店 (6465 3388 ext. 5732) Don’t be fooled by the American diner-style Yayancun, Solana and Weigongcun, see www. interior, Burger Bar’s pedigree of bap Italian tubestationpizza.com.cn for details) African/Middle Eastern fillings include wagyu beef, foie gras and

MAY 2014 73 Listings

1001 Nights (Middle Eastern) range of quality dishes and particularly Less a Japanese than a California roll joint, Additional location in Wudaokou (see www.online. There’s no missing this beast of a Middle friendly service. Looking good after a Hatsune is now an old favorite among the thatsmags.com for details) Eastern on the way into Sanlitun. The recent rennovation. sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing set, though whole Arabic dining package is on offer > Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun less so among sashimi purists. Veggie Table (Western, Asian) * here, from Kebabs, to shisha to belly danc- Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北小街2号 > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm 2/F, Heqiao Bldg Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine ing shows between courses. 2楼 (6462 7255) C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路 is by no means the exclusive preserve of > Daily 11am-2am, 3-4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳甲8号和乔大厦C座2层 (6581 3939) >Additional loca- Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson 区工体北路3-4号 (6532 4050) Raj tions in Sanlitun Tai Koo Li South; Kerry Centre Mall fans, this superbly honed eatery offers Tucked away in musty old building just un- (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details) some of the very best sandwiches – veg- Biteapitta (Middle Eastern) * derneath the drum tower, this curryhouse etarian or otherwise – found anywhere in Enjoyed by vegetarians (hummus, falafel) may look Chinese but everything on the Hyoki ¥ (Japanese) the city. and RMB58 kebab-lovers alike, Biteapitta menu is authenticI Indian, espcially the Hidden away in the depths of the Sofitel > Daily 10.30am to 11.30pm (last order 10.30pm) 19 has the Middle-East mid-range market all rather fine naan. Hotel, this labyrinthine Japanese restaurant Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道 wrapped up in a fluffy pitta. > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou Xidajie of all private dining rooms has some 营胡同19号. (6446 2073) > Daily 11am-11pm, Second Floor, Tongli Studio, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼西大街31号 (6401- stunning food, and is the only place to Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District 1675) sample traditional Japanese paper hot pot in Beijing. 朝阳区三里屯后街同里2层 (6467 2961) bars Three Colours Lotus > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing 100022 93 Jianguo Road, Three Colours Lotus’s team of chefs special- Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国路93号索菲特万达北京 Ibn Battouta (Moroccan) ize in a northern Indian school of cooking, 酒店6层 (6581 0072) TOP 40 BARS AND CLUBS Hidden away in the depths of Gongti, this and their menu is full of creamy curries About This guide represents our charming little Moroccan eatery serves up and succulent cuts of meat grilled in the Inagiku * editors’ top 40 picks, and includes some superbly authentic north Africa fare at a Tandoor oven. This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s old- That’s Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*) modest price. Known for its excellent, at- > Silk Market branch: Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm- est and most celebrated restaurants is as have been personally reviewed by our tentive service, and cosy atmosphere. 10:30pm, Xiu Shui 2, 14 Dong Da Qiao Road, near to perfection as you’re likely to find. experts, and scored according to the > Daily 11.30am-3pm, 6-10pm. 4-103, China View, 2 Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路14号秀水2号 (6586 Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, the cuisine, experience and affordability. Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体东路2 5096) Yashow branch: 5F, Yashow Market, Gongti Bei handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB 80) is not 号中国红街大厦4-103(8587 1255, 139 1141 5052) Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北路雅秀商场内5层 to be missed. Pinotage ¥ (South African) * > Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm. Rm 315, 3/F, Park Life, 8-Bit South-East Asian Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang A seasonal blend of Dutch, English District 朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心悦生活3层 Drinking alongside multiplayer retro gam- and regional African influences, this Cafe Sambal (Malaysian) 315室 (8517 2838) ing – why didn’t anyone do this sooner? contemporary and stylish eatery has an When it comes to Malay-style food in a Megadrive, Super Nintendo, N64... some impressive selection of fine import-quality hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly, Sushi Yotsuba ** real gems make up an ever-growing col- meats, and wines to match. The traditional it’s something of a niche category, but then It doesn’t come cheap (tasting menu lection. Draft Kirin goes for a reasonable borewor ground beer-sausage (RMB100) is so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitan- RMB1,000), but what would you expect RMB25 a glass. tender and sweet, while the red-wine pork style chicken is pricey, but worth it. from some of the best sushi in town? > Daily, 1pm-2am, 49 Jiaodaokou Nandajie, 东城区交道口南大街号 tenderloin (RMB120) makes the trip out to > Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just Buttery and meaty fatty tuna sashimi is a Dongcheng District 49 (159 Shunyi worth it. east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng District西城区豆腐池 cut above. 1025 6538)) > Building 2, 2-105, 1st Floor Sanlitun SOHO, 8 胡同43号旧鼓楼大街往东走(6400 4875) > Dongcheng branch: Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Gongtibeilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北路8号 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng District 东城 Apothecary ¥ * 三里屯soho2号楼2-105 (5785 3538/5785 3539) > Four Corners (Vietnamese, Fusion) 区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699) Golf ball-sized ice cubes, infusions, fussy Additional location in Shunyi (see online for details) Chef Jun Trinh took a break from his celeb- bar-tending and (allegedly) snooty staff Lido branch: 2F, No.9-3, Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang have made the Japanese-style Apothecary rity TV work to host this part-Vietnamese District 朝阳区将台西路9-3号2层 (8420 0998) Rumi (Middle Eastern) venue, serving up steaming bowls of pho bar a divisive choice to visit. See for your- with zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a great bar. Sake Manzo * self: they also serve quality Cajun food. > Daily 11am-midnight. 27 Dashibei Hutong (near > Tue-Sun 6pm-late (kitchen closes 1am). 3/F, Nali west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng District 西城区大 Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯石碑胡同27号烟袋斜街西口附近)((6401 7797) 路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6040)

Greyhound Café (Modern Thai/Fusion) The Bar * Greyhound Café originated in Bangkok of- This relative newcomer (sometimes known fering Thai food with a twist and served in as Third Floor) has years of savvy behind a fashionable surrounds. Perfect for Tai Koo it, meaning you can absolutely trust the Li Sanlitun then. cocktail menu. Manager Jack Zhou and his > Daily 11am-11pm, S1-30B, Building 1, Sanlitun brother offer sterling service, while the Road 19, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号1号 décor is handsome and low-key. 楼 S1-30B (64163439, http:>www.greyhoundcafe. > Daily 4pm-late. 3/F Friendship Youth Hostel, (100m com.hk, (6416 3439) west of Sanlitun Houjie), Chaoyang District 朝阳区北三里屯友谊青年酒店三层(3.3大厦西侧) (6415 9954) Nyonya Kitchen (Malaysian, Nyonya) This chain specializes in Nyonya style cook- Black Sun ing – ostensibly Malaysian but with a mix There’s not a lot of choice for locals around Worlds away from the filth of nearby dirty of Chinese, South-East Asian and European the Chaoyang Park area. With darts, pool, Bar Street, Rumi dishes out plentiful influences resulting in lots of bold flavors food and pub quiz, Black Sun is probably helpings of traditional Persian stews and and bright colors. The barmen here are serious about their the best, though a depressing air does tasty kebabs. Try the juicy Chicken Shish > CBD: EB105, B1/F, China World Mall Phase sake. Boasting one of the best stocked occasionally pervade. A recent change of kebab, the tastier cousin to cheap chuan’r. 1, 1 Jianguomen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门 drinks cabinets in town with over 60 dif- management has helped this. 外大街1号国贸商城一期地下一层EB105 (6505 > Daily 11.30am-12am, Gongti Beilu and Third Ring ferent sakes on offer, this super-cool little > Daily 5.30pm-3am. Chaoyang Park West Gate, 0376); Taiyanggong: Unit 10-11, 4/F, CapitaMall Road 工体北路和三环内,兆龙饭店对面 (8454 3838) eatery is the perfect place to unwind after Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园西门 (6593 6909) Taiyanggong, Chaoyang 朝阳区凯德Mall太阳宫4层 a hard day’s toil. The sashimi is fresh to the 10/11号 (8415 0863) www.nyonyakitchen.com Asian cut, and the beer-marinated chicken is out The Brick Purple Haze (Thai) of this world. One of the very best and least A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll Indian appreciated restaurants in town. find this neighbourhood drinking hole-in- > Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Beisantiao, the brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey Ganges Chaoyang District 朝阳区团结湖北三条甲7号(6436 or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails Conveniently located above popular 1608) (including the devastatingly boozy RMB80 Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid Terminator) are probably needed for the Indian curry house provides the perfect Korean bizarre Wednesday pub quiz. post-match culinary accompaniment. Or > Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi Jiaozi, 31 put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving Ai Jiang Shan Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao), after eight pints of beer. This upscale seafood restaurant proves that Chaoyang District 朝阳区双井桥东北角广渠路31号院 > Daily 11am to 10.30pm. 2nd Floor, 28 Dongzhimen chargrill and composure can go together. 天之骄子2号楼底商2-11 (134 2616 6677) Wai Dajie, Chaoyang District Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch is an absolute Dongzhimen Branch: 朝阳区东直门外大街28号2层 bargain. CICADA Ultralounge ¥ > Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until 9.30pm. 5/F, (6417-0900) Sanlitun Branch: 朝阳区工体北路13号世 The latest – and perhaps only – ultralounge LG Twin Towers (East Tower), 12 Jianguomenwai 贸百货1号楼2楼202室 (64160181) in Beijing is fast becoming one of Sanlitun’s Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街乙12号 trendiest bars. A Shanghai style lounge See www.ganges-restaurant.com/en/ for more 双子座大厦东塔5层 (51096036/6037, for other loca- locations. tions visit http:>www.aijiangshan.com) bar with mixology credentials, the Whisky Sours and Smoky Havana’s are worth the Indian Kitchen Saveurs de Coree cost. > Mon-Sat, 6pm-late, 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches This upmarket Korean bistro has undergone several changes in recent years, not least District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区N4-33 and ladyboy bars, Purple Haze has to make (6418 9898) do for the best Thai experience in town. its move away from the hipper-than-thou confines of Nanluguxiang. Fortunately, Has all the classics like veggie spring rolls d.Lounge ¥ * (RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and curries the menu remains largely intact. The Shin Ramyun is among the best in Beijing, while The fancy spelling tells you all you need to (RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the seafood know about this chic cocktail lounge in a pad Thai (RMB45). the Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too good to be true. stunning archway location. Great on school > Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang nights, this place can become horribly busy District 朝阳区幸福一村55号 (6413 0899) > Daily noon-11pm. 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区香饵胡同128-1号(5741 at weekend. 5753) > Daily 8pm-late. Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (opposite Susu (Vietnamese) the Rock and Roll Club), Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体 The first step is finding it. Follow that up 北路4号 (6593 7710) with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, ex- Vegetarian tensive wine list and a listing of top-notch Tianchu Maoxiang (Asian) Drum and Bell 鼓钟咖啡馆 Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches, Like many Beijing residents, this place start- The location of this rooftop hutong bar, stews, soups and la Vong fish. in the historic (and threatened) Gulou > Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang Hutong ed out in Wudaokou and it’s since made a successful migration to Chaoyang. Great neighbourhood, makes it a great place to Xixiang, Dongcheng District 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10 hang out with a cool one and watch the 号 (8400 2699) range of veggie fare, reasonably priced and day go by. The go to curry house among Beijing’s they offer cooking classes as well. > Daily 10am-10pm 19 Rm 0260, 2/F, Bldg D, > Daily 1pm-2am. 41 Zhonglouwan Hutong, homesick Indian community, this ever Japanese Dongcheng District 东城区钟楼湾胡同41号 (8403 popular no-nonsense restaurant has built Chaowai SOHO, 6B Chaoyangmenwai Dajie 朝阳 3600) up a solid reputation thanks to its wide Hatsune ¥ (California Japanese) 门外大街乙6, 朝外SOHO, D座2层0260 (5900 1288)

74 MAY 2014 Listings

El Nido * (6415 6513) Dong Cheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同44号 China Bar ¥¥ The first hutong hang-out to patent the (136 9142 5744) Top views from the 65th floor and flash Hidden Lounge * fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El Parlor drinks are the attractions on offer at this Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly Although frustrating to find, Hidden hip hotel bar. in summer. The roast leg of mutton place Lounge rewards the intrepid with good art- Learn a few quotes from Gatsby before > Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F, Park next door is one of the best locally. work and comfortable seating, suggesting heading to this 20s Shanghai-style speak- Hyatt, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝 > Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great easy and you’ll fit right in. 阳区建国门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层 (8567 1838/40) District 东城区方家胡同50号(158 1038 2089) prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix > Daily 6pm-2am, 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区 drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have 新东路幸福二村39-8 (8444 4135) Enoterra to call them to find it, though. Xian ¥ Looking for an affordable glass of wine > Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments, Q Bar ¥ This enlongated bar space makes a nice with that date? Look no further than Nali Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 Atop one of the city’s most average-looking spot for refreshment after a day spent Patio’s wine center. Although the food 双花园南里二区CBD公寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613) hotels is one of its classiest (and certainly shopping at neighboring Indigo. leaves a bit to be desired, the selections are oldest) institutions. Be prepared to wait for > Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am, 1/F, EAST vast, and if anything, you can enjoy a nice Ichikura ¥ your drinks, though. The rooftop terrace Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥22 cheese plate with that tart glass of vino. One of the best-known ‘secrets’ in town, is one of the main lures, so in winter, you 号北京东隅酒店一层 (8414 9810, www.xian-bar.com) > Daily 10am-2am, 4/F Sanlutun Nali Patio, 81 this Japanese whisky bar tucked behind may want to look elsewhere. Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那 a theater also offers terrific cocktails. > Daily 5pm-2am. Top floor of Eastern Inn Hotel, 6 Sports Bars 里花园D405室 (5208 6076) Although less expensive than several rivals, Baijiazhuang Lu (on the corner of Sanlitun Nanlu), you’ll want to indulge. Chaoyang District 朝阳区白家庄6号朝阳门医院北门东 Cuju * First Floor > Daily 7pm-2am. 2/F Chaoyang Theater, 36 100米三里屯南路逸羽连锁酒店顶楼 (6595 9239, www. This tiny sports bar is frequently packed First Floor is like that friend who’s too Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环 qbarbeijing.com) with NFL fans but don’t expect rowdy jocks. popular to properly enjoy their company. 北路36号朝阳剧场南侧 (6507 1107) Great Moroccan food and a connoisseur’s At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with Revolution * selection of rums and beers lure a more regulars and the passing tourist trade all The Irish Volunteer Sanlitun doesnt really do hipster bars but sophisticated set. It’s popular with the baying at the bar. A good place to meet Everything – from the red-faced owner to if it did, this cramped ode to Maomorabilia owner’s friends but all are welcome. new friends, perhaps. the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged with would be it. The East may be red but their > 28 Xiguan Hutong, off Dongsibeidajie > Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang alcoholism, doggerel and drunken regret. cocktails (RMB45) are fit for a Chairman. 细管胡同28号东四北大街 (6407 9782) District 朝阳区三里屯北小街 (6413 0587, first.floor- A good place to down a pint and a pizza > Daily, 12pm-late, west of Yashow, Gongti Bei Lu, 朝 beijing.com) before heading into town, then. 阳区工体北路雅秀市场西侧 (6415 8776) The Den > Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite Lido At the opposite end of the 24-hour drink- Fubar Hotel East Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区将台路311 Salud 老伍 * ing spectrum from Centro, The Den is a 号 (6438 5581) A Nanluoguxiang institution, with every- seedy sports joint that starts off sedate and thing from cheap beer to (loud) live music grows steadily sadder as night turns to day. The James Joyce * and low beams. The rum infusions are a It can get rough and ready come dawn. With its roaring fire and portraits of Joyce, particular favorite on cold nights. Latest Solid (cheap) menu, good location and the ‘JJ’ is a homing beacon to anyone crav- branch in WDK a welcome addition to sur- those opening times earn it a place. ing an authentic Irish pub atmosphere (i.e. rouding student dives. > Open 24 hours. 4 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang without tacky Guinness-related gimmicks). > NLGX: Mon-Fri 3pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 66 District 朝阳区工体东路4号城市宾馆正门旁边 > Daily 11am-2am14 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District 东城区南锣鼓巷 66号 (6402 5086) District 朝阳区新东路14号 (6415 9125) The Local * > Wudaokou: 2/F, Qijixin Building, Zhanchunyuan Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has come Jane’s & Hooch ¥ * Xilu 展春园西路奇蓟鑫大厦南侧2层 into its own, with large (yet strangely Acclaimed by some foreign press as one unobtrusive) screenings of sports and of the best bars in the world (cough), this Slow Boat Brewery Taproom * political events, a pub quiz, quality fare and not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard This popular microbrewery finally got its a nice selection of draughts and cocktails. of the South Sanlitun gentrification. It own comfortable location in Dongcheng’s Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t Address: Gongti Dongmen 10-11, behind the serves RMB60-80 measures of your favorite hutong district. Quality ales (such as the need another. Prohibiotion-era hooches in a fanstastic vanilla stout (RMB55) or crisp Dragon Boat > Daily 11-2am. 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 secret door inside Stadium Dog (6593 8227) speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive Ale (RMB25), heated floors and a kitchen 体北路4号院 (6591 9525) Slightly past its prime, this basement bar is staff and unimpeachable cocktails. The round out the deal. drawbacks? Weekends can be horriblky > Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 4pm-12am, Thur-Fri: Paddy O’Shea’s trying to rediscover the speakeasy pretence Owner Karl Long has airlifted an entire that made the place its name. Live lounge busy – and there is a frankly absurd list of 5pm-1am, Sat: 2pm-late, Sun: 2-10pm. 56 Dongsi Batiao,Dongcheng District 东城区东四八条56号 Irish theme pub, including residents, from music and a vast amount of pours are start- house rules marring the menu. > Daily 8pm-2am, Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu, 工体北路 (6538 5537) a council estate in Limerick and gently ing to persuade people it’s succeeding. deposited it in central Beijing. With plenty > 6pm-2am Sunday to Thursday, 6pm-4am Friday 4号院 ( 6503 2757) and Saturday. 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District, The Tree going on, including pub quiz and sports, Workers’ Stadium East Gate 朝阳区工体北路8号工人 Lucky Man ¥ * A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene, no one seems to have noticed. > Dongzhimen: Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimenwai 体育场东门内 (6593 8227) The cognoscenti rate this quiet Gulou you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer whisky bar as one of the smartest to satisfy aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere. Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东直门外大街28号 (6592 6290) Glen ¥ your lust for the other ‘amber nectar.’ Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve > Daily 7pm-1.30am. 157 Gulou Dongdajie, Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and > Sanlitun: 2/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Back Street endured poor service and drinks that are Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街157 (6405 Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors). 三里屯北路43号同里二层 (6415 0299) scandalous at the price), which is located in 4167) > Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar Street, a decidedly downbeat compound. But whis- Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里 Nightclubs 屯酒吧街往西100米友谊旅馆后面三里屯医院东面 ky lovers have been known to swear by its Luga’s selections and dark, intimate atmosphere. The closest Beijing has to a municipal (6415 1954) The Bar at Migas ¥ drinking hall, the four-storey Luga’s has A place to dance and prowl, perhaps, rather See for yourself. Twilight ¥ * > 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites Hotel Beijing, it all: terrible Tex-Mex, decent Italian, a than a drinks destination, TBAM, as no one 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯 busy pool table, loud music, smoke, 400 A downtown version of Sanlitun mainstay calls it, focuses on upscale local DJs to get Apothecary, complete with mood jazz and 路16号泰悦豪庭2楼203室 (6591 1191) flatscreen TVs all showing different sports… the party started. Good-enough cocktails yet still we like it (sort of). Basement bar those premium cocktails, this Japanese range from RM55-70 but mostly it’s about Glen Classic ¥ Taps provides a German-themed refuge, whisky bar makes you feel as far away from the music, man. Tucked away in the grounds of Face hotel, with serve-your-own draught Paulaner and the busy boulevards whizzing below as you’d want. > Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday to Glen Classic is a Japanese-owned whisky quality food. Friday 6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, > Daily 6pm-2am. 3/F, villa 5 east Jianwai SOHO, bar where discerning drinkers can sink > Daily 11am-2am. 2/F, 7 Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 (5208-6061) Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东 District 朝阳区三里屯后街7号 (6416 2575) into an arm-chair, glass in hand, and while Chocolate ¥ away the hours. Huge range of whiskies 三环中路39号建外SOHO东区5号别墅3层 (5900 5376) Mai Bar * It’s impossible to discuss Chocolate without and rums are personally selected by expert XIU ¥¥ mentioning gold leaf, dwarves, cabaret owner Daiki Kanetaka – let him recommend Understated hutong hideaway with a long list of some of the best cocktails in town. While Thursday’s Ladies Nights attracts dancers and oddly-friendly Russian women. you something special. the sort we’d sooner avoid, XIU is beloved Timed right, a visit can be raucous fun, with > Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required, > Daily 5pm-late, 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城 among aspirational white-collar Chinese, bottles of spirits from around RMB200, minimum spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26 区北锣鼓巷40号 (6406 1871) Dongcaoyuan, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路东草 wooed by its sprawling chic-ness and cocktails under RMB50 (including the 园26号 (6551 6788) Mao Mao Chong ** playboy clientele. A lively house band keeps absinthe-based Flaming Armageddon) The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their you indoors, but a superb terrace backons and regular floor shows. Best to avoid this Great Leap Brewery 大跃啤酒 ¥ * sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorn- you otherwise: a fantastic midweek drink- cavernous slice of underground kitsch after The bar that began the whole Beijing mi- infused vodka drink that’s a long way from ing venue in the summer. midnight, though. crobrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes Moscow – are unique infusions using > Daily 6pm-2am. 3/F, villa 5 east Jianwai SOHO, > Daily 7pm-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛北路19号 (8561 3988) in idiosyncratic, local-style brews (RMB25- local ingredients and know-how. Grungey Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三 without being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash 环中路39号建外SOHO东区5号别墅3层 (5900 5376) 40) with intriguing flavors – their Sichuan Dada * peppercorn ale was memorably good. while still keeping it real. And those pizzas. > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng Hotel Bars It hasn’t been on the Beijing scene for Reservations used to be recommended too long, but already Dada is the hippest for their original hutong brewhouse, but District 东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718, www.maomaochongbeijing.com) Atmosphere ¥¥ hangout in town. Their cosy Gulou confines the opening of a wildly popular new pub Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of under rock house Temple offer an intimate on Xinzhong Lu has shifted most drinkers the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+ place to nod along to an eclectic range of there instead. Mesh ¥ Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-de- all things electro from the best names on > Gulou: 5pm-late, Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat-Sun 2-10pm, gree views of the 700AQI PM2.5. 6 DouJiao Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区豆角 late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior the underground scene. > Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon-4am. 80/F, > Daily, 9pm-late, Rm 101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong 胡同6号 (5717 1399) >Sanlitun: Daily 11:30am-2pm; and underground soundtrack draws the China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri /Sat 5pm-1am, B12 bright young things (and on LGBT Thurs- Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号北京国贸大栋101室 (183 1108 0818) Xinzhong Street 新中街乙12号 ( 6416-6887, www. days, quite a few old things, too). 酒店80 (6505 2299 ext. 6433) greatleapbrewing.com) > Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼 (6417 Lantern * Centro ¥ Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture Heaven Supermarket 6688) Although it’s no longer quite the go-to Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedrag- place for beautiful people it once was, Cen- strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars gled English teachers, Heaven sells the Modernista Old Cafe and Tapas Bar ¥ * tro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music, cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You The hipsters love this little brasserie- jazz performaces, spacious and recently it also makes good drinks and attracts can also hang around and appreciate the themed absinthe bar. Regular live shows renovated lounge areas and classic drinks international electronica DJs. afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the mean it can often get pretty crowded. That like the blue-cheese martini. should piss off the hipsters, yet still they > Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of Worker’s food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen. > Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体 > Daily 12pm-4am. 12 Xindong Lu (next to The keep coming. Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭店育场西门向北100米(139 119 77989) James Joyce), Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路16号 > Tuesday to Sunday 12pm-2am. 44 Baochao Hutong, 1层 (6561 8833)

MAY 2014 75 Listings

Maggie’s Opened in 2002, Chinese superstars and treatments and waxing services too. implants. A notorious sausage fest (we refer, of university prospects all get wall space here. > Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) 2 Ginza Mall, 48 > 1) Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B Jianguo Lu, course, to the hot-dog stand outside), > RMB10. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Building 4, Pingod Dongzhimenwai Dajie (southeast of Dongzhimen Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路乙118号国贸桥东南 Maggie’s has been providing its special Community, No.32 Baiziwan Road, Chaoyang District Bridge), Dongcheng District东城区东直门外大街48号角京汇大厦201室 (6567 5670); 2) Rm 208, Tower A, comforts for so long, it’s practically a time- 朝阳区百子湾路32号苹果社区4号楼今日美术馆 (5876 东方银座2楼(东直门桥东南侧) (8447 7178); 2) Shop CITIC Building, 19 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang honored Beijing brand – although it’s also a 0600, www.todayartmuseum.com) 2049, 2/F, 3.3 Shopping Center, 33 Sanlitun Beijie, District朝阳区建国门外大街19号国际大厦A座208室 bastion of Mongolian culture. Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯北街33号3.3大厦2层 (6500 6473); 3) Rm 308, Tower A, Raycom Info Tech 2049号 ( 5136 5829, 136 8148 3308) Park 2 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian District海淀区中关 > Sun-Thur 8pm-4am, Fri-Sat 8pm-5am, Ritan Park Independent cinemas 村科学院南路2号融科资讯中心A座308室 (8286 1956); South Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛公园南 Yihe 42° Hot Yoga 4) Rm 101, Bldg 16, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo 门 (8562 8142) Broadway Cinematheque MOMA * Opened in 2009, this arthouse film venue Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心公 boasts the largest screens for independent 寓16号楼101室 (8588 8550/60/70); 5) 1/F, Somerset School Bar Fortune Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled cinema in Beijing. It has three theaters with District朝阳区亮马桥路46号燕莎东侧盛捷福景苑1层 fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this a total of 400 seats and a 300-sqm cafe- (8440 1926) alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by bookstore, aptly named Kubrick. Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers. > RMB30-120. Mon-Sun 11am-10pm. F3, Building United Family Shunyi Dental Clinic > Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Chaoyang T4, The North Area, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, The Beijing United Family Dental Clinic in Dongcheng District 东城区东直门香河园路1号当 District 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881, 6406 Shunyi is a satellite of the main hospital 9947) 代Moma北区T4座 (8438 8258 ext. 8008, www.bc- cinema.cn) in Lido (which has its own dental clinic onsite). A comprehensive range of services galleries Instituto Cervantes are at hand, including restorative dentistry Showing popular independent films from and cosmetic dentistry. Call ahead for all 798 Art District Picks Latin American Directors monthly, the appointments. Instituto Cervantes is a forum of Spanish- > 818 Pinnacle Plaza, Tianzhu Real Estate Pace Beijing speaking culture that also hosts public art Development Zone, Shunyi District北京和睦家医院牙科诊所, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818 (8046 1102) With locations in New York, London and exhibitions and lectures. They even have a Beijing hosting the likes of Zhang Xi- video library! SDM Dental 固瑞齿科 aogang, Yue Minjun, Robert Rauschenberg, > Prices vary. Daily 7am-10pm.1A Gongti Nanlu, Counting on certified Bikram yoga teachers, The full spectrum of dentistry. Services Mark Rothko, Kiki Smith and Sol LeWitt, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路甲1号 (5879 9666, Yihe 42° Hot Yoga provides three locations include teeth cleaning, root-canal treat- Pace inhabits Bauhaus-style buildings 798 is www.pekin.cervantes.es) with a calm, relaxing and clean ment, porcelain crowns, dental implants, idealized for. Go there! environment for people from all walks of orthodontics, cosmetic dentistry, fillings, > Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.798 Art District, 2 Bookstores lives to learn and grow through the regular Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号 pediatric dentistry, extraction, teeth-whit- practice of Hot Yoga. This is a place where ening and veneers. Credit cards accepted. 大山子艺术区 (5978 9781, www.pacegallery.com) The Bookworm * you can dedicate time for yourself, relax This glass cube looks over Sanlitun Village, > www.sdmdental.com**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. CBD/ your mind and restore your strength. Guomao>2/F,NB210, China World Shopping Mall, Space Station providing a cozy atmosphere for browsing > Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 3/F, No. 2 South Building, Not often shown in 789’s sea of elites, bibliophiles. The Western bookstore, li- 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie建外大街1号国贸商城地下2 Blue Castle, Dawang Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区大层 Tel:6505-9439/31/93**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm.Olympic Space Station presents a younger genera- brary, film house, bar, bistro-cafe and event 望路蓝堡国际中心南写2座3层 (8599 7395/96, www. Area>F-0186B Sunshine Plaza, 68 Anli Lu(east of tion of domestic artists. Exhibitions tend to space always has a cultured evening on its yh42.com); 2) 3/F, Bldg. 14, Solana, No. 6 Chaoyang Sunshine Plaza)亚运村安立路68号阳光广场东侧 . have a good curatorial understanding of shelves for both adults and kids. Gongyuan Xilu Chaoyang District朝阳区朝阳公园 Tel: 6497-2173,6498-2173**Mon-Sun 10am-19pm. space and high-quality 2D work. > Daily 9am-2am. Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Road, 西路6号,蓝色港湾14号,三层 (5905 6067/77, www. Shunyi>LB07-08, No.99 Euro Plaza, YuXiang Road.北 > Free, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao Rd798 Art Chaoyang District, Beijing 三里屯南街4号楼 (6586 yh42.com) ; 3) 3/FA Shimao Plaza 13 Gongti Beilu 京顺义区天竺镇裕翔路99号欧陆广场LB07-08号.Tel: District, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术 9507, www.beijingbookworm.com) Chaoyang District朝阳工体北路新中西里13号巨石 8046-6084**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. Sanyuanqiao>FC222, 区中一街 (5978 9671) 大厦3FA 21st Century Hotel, 40 Liang Maqiao Lu亮马桥40号 Page One 21世纪饭店2层 Tel: 6466-4814, 6461-2745**Mon- Ullens Center for Contemporary Art The go-to shop for new releases and special Yoga Yard Fri 9am-8pm.Haidian>4076B, 4/F, New Yansha Filling the largest factory space in 798 with requests. With sister venues in Hong Kong, Whether you’re looking to develop your Mall, Yuanda Lu远大路金源燕莎购物中心Mall4层 Chinese and international art, the UCCA has Taiwan and Singapore, and two locations in spiritual wellbeing, body toning or just 4076B Tel:8859-6912/13**Mon-Sun, 10am-7pm the curatorial power and financial backing Beijing, its network allows for fresh authors socialize with the hip young crowd, Yoga Guomao>Rm 5, 3/F, North Tower, China Overseas to put together some of Beijing’s most whilst upholding an extensive collection Yard will have the right class for you. Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli. 北京朝阳区光华东里8号中 impressive exhibitions. of titles. > Daily, 7am-9.30pm. Yoga Yard, 6/F , 17 Gongti Bei 海广场北楼3层05号.Tel: 5977-2488 > RMB10, free Thursdays. Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. 798 > Daily 10am-9pm. Shop 3B 201, Zone 3 China World Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区工体北路17号6层 (6413 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝 Mall, No.1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue, Chaoyang 0774, www.yogayard.com) 阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 (5780 0200, www.ucca. District 朝阳区国贸商城三期地下二层3B201 (8535 HAIR SALONS org.cn) 1055, www.pageonegroup.com) Sport Eric Paris Hair Salon Page One Indigo. Shop LG50, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao Caochangdi Art Village Fine Yoga With several well-located Beijing branches, Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商业 this salon is still most expats’ default 中心B1楼50号(8426 0408, www.pageonegroup.com) This airy studio offers a diverse range of Chambers Fine Art Beijing style and classes, including Ashtanga, hairdresser. It targets high-end consumers With its compeer gallery in New York, Hatha, Anusara, soft Yin and Hot yoga. seeking luxury and beauty services, includ- Chambers is a matriarch with extensive BEAUTY & FITNESS Teachers are top notch and international, ing tanning, waxing and manicures. roots in the local-studio scene that allows and classrooms spacious and bright, with > Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 43 South Sanlitun Beijie, Big Apple headhunters to cull next genera- Alona Pilates Studio stylish, clean changing-rooms. Classes Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯北街南43号 (135 tion avant-garde and provide a stepping Pairing up traditional Pilates with an in- 0137 2971; www.ericparis.com ); 2) 1/F, Jiali Center, taught in both Chinese and English. 1 Guanghua Lu朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心1楼 (139 stone to international recognition. > Mon-Fri 7am-9:30pm, Sat- Sun. 10am-6pm.16/F, novative, full-body workout, Alona Pilates 1179 8376;) > Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Red No.1-D, Caochangdi, offers classes designed to tone and whip Tower 2, Blue Castle International Centre, 3 Xi Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地红一号D座 (5127 朝阳区西大望路号蓝 you into shape fast. It also provides a Dawang Lu, Chaoyang District 3 Tony & Guy 3298, www.chambersfineart.com) 堡国际中心2号楼16层 (85999566/ 85997702) personalized experience for all its students, A favorite of many Beijing expats, the regardless of fitness, strength and trendy British chain features interna- White Space Beijing flexibility levels. Heyrobics There are no restricting on the art this gal- “Sweat like a Swede!” they say with tional products, knowledgeable (generally > Daily, 7.30, late. 5/F at Heavenly Spa by Westin, 1 somewhat English-speaking) staff, and a lery supports, leading to some of the area’s Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District annoyingly smug grin and toned abs. more perplexing exhibitions. Always fun The only fitness craze worth following in never-ending stream of well-heeled hip 朝阳区新源南路号威斯汀酒店五层 and on the pulse of vitality, though empiri- 1 ( 139 1029 0260, Beijing, Heyrobics is all about a punish- clientele. Cuts run the gamut from basic to www.alonapilates.com) cal value is pushed to an extreme. ing full-body workout set to pumping haute coiffure, depending on which grade > Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 255 Caochangdi, Airport of stylish you select. Broadwell International Tennis Academy beats – not forgetting the fluores- Service Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区机场辅路草场 cent spandex. Differing classes for all > Daily, 10am-9pm. LG 41, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 地255号(8456 2054, www.whitespace-beijing.com) Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港地铁层 Center, this indoor club boasts a complete abilities, check online for the full schedule. 41号 (8426 0688, for other branches see) > www.heyrobics.com, [email protected] Citywide Picks state-of-the-art air-supported structure for all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with California Fitness Beijing Club Tic Tac Hair Salon Arrow Factory an advanced lighting system and controlled California Fitness Beijing’s Group X program Trendy, artsy and welcoming, Tic Tac is This space is one of a kind in Beijing, an climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect is among the best in the region, and with one of Beijing’s best-kept secrets and a independently run alternative space in the their service and batting a few balls. membership you have access to over 150 real beauty gem. Staff are friendly and hutong of Beijing’s center. Showing young, > Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农南路 weekly Group X classes and a team of multilingual (we counted five last time). experimental artists, Arrow only takes 1号朝阳公园网球中心(4006406800/ 65958885,www. professional personal trainers in Asia. Your A shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at up about 15sqm and is viewable 24/7. As broadwell.cn1) membership also includes free towel usage RMB200 and goes to RMB780. > Daily, 10am-9pm. Suite 2-06, Tower AB, The Office a backlash against artists being pushed DNA Fitness Studio and a fitness assessment. >South Tower, L4, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District Park, 10 Jintong Xilu, Chaoyang district朝阳区金桐 outside the city limits, this space tries to Catering for both athletes and normal folks, reinstall art inside an urban setting so 4008-100-988 www,californiafitness.com 西路10号远洋光华国际AB座2层06单元 (8590 6899, DNA Fitness Studio specializes in one-on- www.tictac-hair.com) everyday experience and creativity remain one personal training, weight loss, spine intertwined. Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅 care, body building and more, with person- Cycle China provides organized cycling and > Free. Everyday 24hours. 38 Jianchang Hutong, alized classes and training systems. HEALTH SERVICES Dongcheng District 东城区箭厂胡同38号 (www.ar- hiking tours in and aroundBeijing as well > Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm.Unit 1135, 3F, Bldg 11, Jianwai rowfactory.org.cn) as longer tours throughout China. Some Amcare Women’s & Children’s Hospital SOHO, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District of their more popular tours take cyclists 朝阳区东三环中路建外SOHO西区11楼3层 (5869 1607) With a zero waiting-time policy, top-quality CAFA Museum through the Olympic Green, Tian’anmen inpatient facilities, home visits, night ser- Attached to the northeast corner of the Luxura Tanning Center Square, and Beijing’s traditional hutongs. vices and transportation assistance, Amcare >12 Jingshan East Street, Dongcheng District 东城区 Central Academy of Fine Art, architect Arata This tanning salon has some of the city’s provides a trustworthy experience. English- Isozaki built a slate-rock shell to house the 景山东街12号 (6402 5653 Mobile: 13911886524, re- best state-of-the-art tanning beds, all [email protected] or [email protected]) speaking services include pediatrics, museum’s 13,000+ collection of modern imported from Europe. For the sexiest tan gynecology and obstetrics. to contemporary art. Opened in 2008, possible, get custom-made tanning tips > 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西 exhibitions range from Chinese Modern from the well-trained staff. DENTAL 路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610 6200, www. masterworks to current avant-garde > Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) Rm 307, Bldg 4, Jianwai Soho amcare.com.cn) experimental. 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District朝阳 Arrail Dental > RMB10. Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm. No. 8 Huajiadi Nan 区东三环中路建外SOHO西区4楼307室(5900 0427, Affiliated with the University of Pennsyl- Beijing International Medical Center Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区花家地南街8号中央美术 www.luxura.net) 2) 5005, 5/F, 3.3 Sanlitun, Chaoyang (IMC) 学院美术馆 (6528 2022, www.cafamuseum.org) vania, Arrail Dental has access to top-class District朝阳区三里屯3.3大厦5层5005号 (5136 5186, equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple Established in 1993, the International Medi- www.luxura.net) cal Center-Beijing counts on an expert team Today Art Museum * locations across town and excellent facili- of foreign doctors, offering a wide range of As China’s first non-profit, non-governmen- ties make it one of the best dental provid- Lily Nails medical services, including family medicine, tal art museum, this institution embodies ers in Beijing. English-speaking staff. Dental A long-time favorite among locals and psychological services, dental, ob/gyn, the country’s 20th-century leap to develop services including examinations, whitening, expats alike, Lily Nails is much more than a pediatrics and TCM. Drop-in services for academic and progressive exhibitions. root-canal treatment, orthodontics and nail spa; they have a variety of pampering travelers; x-rays and ultrasounds are also

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SIBS Springboard International Blingual 号燕莎中心写字楼层 Inn, Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区南三 50 1 S106 (6465 1561/2/3, 6465 Contact us now to experience a FREE TRIAL CLASS! 君城国际双语学院 1384/28, www.imclinics.com) 里屯路逸羽酒店一层 (6593 6066); 3) Grand Summit School Plaza, 19 Dongfang Donglu (100m north of Lufthansa > Tel: 010- 57488958; [email protected]; Springboard International Bilingual School Beijing HarMoniCare Women and Chil- Center), Chaoyang District朝阳区燕莎桥东方东路19号 www.movingmandarin.com; Rm 2209, Tower A, is a place where children, staff and parents Wanda Square, Dawang Road, Chaoyang, Beijing, dren’s Hospital 北京和美妇儿医院外交会所1层(燕莎中心路北100米) (8532 3122) work in partnership to enable all their China students to realize their full potential. 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Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District朝阳区东三 > 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, Gucheng Village, 15 Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, 环中路39号建外SOHO2号楼 (8631 0801) Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 (www.sibs.com.cn, [email protected]; 8049 2450) The Wellness Spa by Hummingbird (8049 0307) A favorite among locals and expats alike for The Bridge School Western Academy of Beijing its professional pampering know-how and 京西国际学校北京桥汉语言学校 services, the Wellness Spa by Hummingbird > 10 Laiguangying Donglu > (The Bridge School Head office)Room 503, 5/F, is a slick and serious urban retreat in the Guangming Hotel, 42 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang Chaoyang District heart of Central Park. District 朝阳区亮马桥路42号光明饭店5层503室朝阳区来广营东路10号 (5986 5588 www.wab.edu) > Daily 10am-10pm. Tower 26, Central Park, (15321793321 Grettchin) Chaoyangmen Wai Chaoyang District朝阳区朝阳门外新城国际26号楼 (6533 6922) Yew Chung International School International Schools 耀中国际学校 > Honglingjin Park, 5 Houbalizhuang, Chaoyang Oriental Taipan Massage & Spa Beijing BISS International School Wi-Fi available. Chaoyang: 2 Xiaoguan Beili, Beiyuan Since 2002, Oriental Taipan has been pam- District 朝阳区后八里庄5号红领巾公园 (8583 3731 Lu北苑路小关北里甲2号. Tel: 6499-0000. contact@hm- 北京BISS国际学校 www.ycis-bj.com) care.org, en.hmcare.net pering Beijing’s finest in their small chain > Building 17, Area 4, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang District of contemporary spas. Calming flower 朝阳区安贞西里4区17楼 (6443 3151 aromas, Zen music, and trickling feng shui Kindergartens Beijing United Family Hospital and Clin- www.biss.com.cn) ics 北京和睦家医院 fountains create a soothing atmosphere in Beanstalk International Bilingual School each of their locations, while a long list of 青苗国际双语学校 Wi-fi internet. Lido, Emergency Room is open Beijing City International School treatments from around the world cater to 1) Kindergarten > 1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao Lu, 24/7/365, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm.> 2 Jiangtai Road, 北京乐成国际学校 Chaoyang District, 朝阳区将台路2号. Tel: (10) 5927 all pampering needs. Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路40号B座一层 (6466 7000 / 5927 7120(Emergency Hotline). United > Daily, 12am-midnight. Sunjoy Mansion, 6 Ritan Lu, Located in Beijing’s Central Business 9255) 2) Primary School > Block 2, Upper East Side, Family CBD Clinic和睦家朝外诊所, Mon-Sat, 9:30am- Chaoyang District朝阳区日坛路6号 (400 001 0202, District, Beijing City International School 6 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东四环 6:30pm.> Suite 3017, Building AB, Vantone Center, 6 www.taipan.com.cn) (BCIS) lives by its motto: “Empowering 北路6号阳光上东二区 (5130 7951) 3) Middle & High Chaowai Street, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区朝阳门外 and Inspiring through Challenge and School > 38 Nan Shiliju, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南十大街6号万通中心AB座2层3017室. Tel: (10) 5907 1266. Compassion.” This non-profit, independent 里居38号 (8456 6019) Jianguomen Health and Wellness Center和睦家建国 EDUCATION co-educational day school offers an inter- 门保健中心, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sun 8:30am-5pm>21 national curriculum under the International La Maison Montessori de Pekin Jianguomen Dajie, B1, The St. Regis Residence, St. MBA & EMBA Schools Baccalaureate (IB) World School system 北京中法双语蒙氏儿童之家 Regis Hotel朝阳区建国门外大街21号北京国际俱乐部 and is authorized to teach all three IB The first bilingual French-Chinese Montes- 饭店. Tel: (10) 8532 1221 / 8532 1678 (Immigration BBA at BFSU-SolBridge programs (Primary Years, Middle Years, and sori kindergarten in Beijing, it welcomes Clinic ). Shunyi Clinic和睦家顺义诊所Wi-fi internet, 北京外国语大学国际商学院 Diploma Programme). BCIS is planning on children between ages 2 to 6 years old. Mon-Fri, 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat and Sun, 9:30am- > 19 Xisanhuan Beilu, Haidian District, 海淀区西三 a second campus, a state-of-the-art Early The kindergarten is located in a beautiful 4:30pm.> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 806, Tian Zhu Real 环北路19号 (solbridge.bfsu.edu.cn, 8881 6563/8881 Childhood Center (ECC) campus. Located courtyard in the hutongs. Schedule: Mon- Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District, 顺义区天 6763/8881 8537) day to Friday: 8:30am to 3:30pm. After class 竺开发区荣祥广场806号,Tel: (10) 8046 5432. Shunyi only 1km from the main campus, the ECC is the first pre-school building in Beijing to activities also offered. Dental Clinic顺义牙科诊所, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sat, LEMBA > 50 Dongsi Shisitiao, Dongcheng 9:30am-7:30pm> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 818, Tian Zhu be LEED-certified to Gold standard. BCIS is The Leadership EMBA from the University 东城区东四十四条50号 Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District顺义 one of the few schools in Beijing licensed Tel: 131 2025 0341/ 8401 3974; 区天竺开发区荣祥广场818号. Tel: (10) 8046 1102. of Maryland and accredited to offer a rigorous and well- Robert H. Smith School of Business is a e-mail: [email protected] Liangma Clinic亮马诊所 Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, respected international curriculum to both www.lamaisonmontessoridepk.com 8:30am-5pm>2nd Floor Grand Summit, 19 Dongfang unique learning experience in Beijing. The foreign and Chinese national students. East Road朝阳区东方东路19号1号楼会所27号外交人 program offers world class executive and > 77 Baiziwan Nan’er Lu, Chaoyang District EtonKids International Kindergarten 员公寓B区官舍16号 . Tel: (10) 5927 7005 www.ufh. leadership education from some of the best 朝阳区百子湾南二路77号 (8771 7171 伊顿国际幼儿园 com.cn, [email protected] professors the world has to offer. Every 1) Lido – 6436 7368 www.etonkids.com > Room C103 month one of the professors from the www.bcis.cn) Lido Country Club, Lido Place Jichang Lu, Chaoyang Hongkong International Medical Clinic, University of Maryland comes to Beijing District 朝阳区蒋台路机场路丽都广场 2) 6506 4805 Beijing 北京港澳国际医务诊所 to instruct the class for 4 consecutive Beijing Rego British School 3/F, Block D Global Trade Mansion Guanghua Lu, Dongsishitiao: 9/F, Office Tower, Hongkong Macau days (Thurs – Sun). The program lasts 18 北京瑞金英国学校 Chaoyang District Center-Swiss Hotel, 2 Chaoyangmen Bei Dajie朝阳门 >15 Liyuan Jie, Tianzhu Town, Shunyi District months; the impact lasts a lifetime. 朝阳区光华路世贸国际公寓D座3层 3) 8437 1006 北大街2号港澳中心瑞士酒店办公楼9层; 6553-9752, Email: [email protected] 顺义区天竺镇丽苑街15号 (8416 7718 6553-2288/2345/6/7; [email protected]; www. Tel: 8526 2528/29 Southwest corner of Beichen Xilu and Kehui Lu, hkclinic.com www.bjrego.org) Chaoyang District 朝阳区北辰西路与科荟路交汇处 Rutgers International Executive MBA 西南角 4) 8480 5538 Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District, International SOS > 5/F China Life Tower, 16 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang The British School of Beijing 北京英国 Beijing 朝阳区科荟路大屯里社区 5) 6533 6995 Bldg Since 1989, International SOS has been run District 朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦 (5877 学校 19, Central Park, 6 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District by globally trained medical professionals 1706, www.rutgersinasia.com) Lower School 朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际19号楼 6) 6539 8967 and provides medical, security and travel > 5 Xiliujie, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District Palm Springs International Apartments 8 Chaoyang Tsinghua University Park Nanlu Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路 advice, as well as emergency help 24/7. Its 朝阳区三里屯西六街5号 (8532 3088 alarm centers operate house calls, ambu- > Chengfu Lu, Haidian District 海淀区成府路 (6278 8号棕榈泉国际公寓 7) 6749 5008 Bldg 21, Guangqu 9437/8286 3785) www.britishschool.org.cn) Jiayuan, Guangqumen- wai, Dongcheng District 东 lance and evacuation services, and standard 城区广渠门外广渠家园21号楼 8) 8478 0578 Baoxing health treatments. Languages spoken Mandarin Schools Upper School International Phase 2, Wangjing Chaoyang District include English, German, French, Mandarin, > South Side, 9 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District 朝阳区望京宝星园国际社区2期 9) 8047 2983 Block 1, Spanish, Japanese, Italian and Cantonese. My Chinese Study – Languages open 顺义区安华路9号南院 (8047 3588) Arcadia Villas, Houshayu Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪 > Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16 your world! 罗马环岛北侧天北路阿凯笛亚庄园1座 Xinyuanli, Chaoyang District朝阳区新源里16号琨莎 Starting from Sanlitun, now four language Canadian International School of Beijing 10) 5870 6779 20A Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝中心1座105 centers across the city for the most Origi- 北京加拿大国际学校阳区西大望路甲20号首府社区内室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.internationalsos.com) nating in Sanlitun, now with four language > 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District International Montessori School of centers available for you to get the most 朝阳区亮马桥路38号 (6465 7788 ParkwayHealth Vantone Medical and effective Chinese education. Beijing 北京蒙台梭利国际学校 Rehabilitation Center •2014 Summer Camp Registration Starts! www.cisb.com.cn) 6432 8228, www.msb.edu.cn, 18 Maquanying, Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm. CBD>1-2/F, Vantone Center, 6 10% off, register before May 31st. Xiangjiang Beilu Chaoyang 朝阳区香江北路马泉 Chaowai Street朝阳门外大街甲六号万通中心AB座一 •May Special offer: Book with your friend, Dulwich College Beijing 营18号二层; (4000-662-882(24hrs); enquiry@parkwayhealth. both get 10% off. 北京德威英国国际学校 cn; www.parkwayhealth.cn •May Free Culture Event: Friday, May 30th 1) Legend Garden Campus Ivy Schools 艾毅幼儿园 2pm. > 89 Jichang Lu, Shunyi District www.ivyschools.com 1) East Lake Campus 8451 1380/1 > C-101, East Lake Villas, 35 Dongzhimenwai Vista Medical Center 维世达诊所 Topic: Dragon Boat Festival Party. 首都机场路89号丽京花园 (6454 9000; 24hours. Wi-Fi internet. 3/F Kerry Center. 1 Guanghua Main Street, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街35号东 •Available Courses: Early morning course- www.dulwich-beijing.cn) 湖别墅C座101室 Lu 光华路1号嘉里中心商场3层 Tel: 8529-6618. Email: before work; Survival course-short term; [email protected]. Website: www.vista-china.net HSK course-ready for test; Business course- 2) Beijing Riviera Campus 2) Ivy Bilingual School 艾毅双语幼儿园 Ocean Express professional; Part-time general course-great > 1 Xiangjiang Beilu, Jingshun Lu, Chaoyang District Campus 8446 7286/7 >Building E, Ocean Express, 2 OASIS International Hospital value; Private course-flexible schedule. 朝阳区京顺路香江北路1号香江花园 (8450 7676) Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路2号 OASIS International Hospital specializes in •Total beginner courses are open every 2 远洋新干线E座 serving the expatriate community with the 3) River Garden Campus weeks (May 5, 6, 19, 20) 3) Orchid Garden Campus 8439 7080 Orchid Garden, latest world-class technology and a broad > River Garden Villas, Houshayu Baixinzhuang, Shunyi •Visa, accommodation and airport pick-up District 顺义区后沙峪白辛庄裕京花园别墅 8046 5132 18 Xinjin Lu, Cuige Xiang, Chaoyang 朝阳区崔各 range of services, all in a pristine facility de- provided. 乡新锦路18号卓锦万代 4) Wangjing Campus 5738 signed to provide patients with the utmost Email: [email protected]; Tel: 8590 0698; Harrow International School Beijing 9166/1332 110 6167 Kylin Zone, Bldg 11, Fuan Xilu, comfort, care and privacy. www.mychinesestudy.com; Sanlitun Center: 3-323, 北京哈罗英国学校 www.harrowbeijing.cn Wangjing, Chaoyang > Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 8.30am-12.30pm; Retail 3, Sanlitun SOHO, Chaoyang; Guomao Center: 朝阳区望京阜安西路11号楼合生麒麟社内 24 Hour Emergency Bldg C1, 9 Jiuxianqiao Beilu Lower School 2806, No.3 Jianwai SOHO; Anzhenqiao Center: 2F10, > Grassetown, Gequ Village, Songzhuang Tongzhou Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥北路9号C1栋 (400 876 Global Trade Center E, Anzhenqiao District 通州区徐新庄镇葛渠村格拉斯小镇 (8951 6680) 2747, 5985-0333, www.oasishealth.cn) 3e International 北京3e国际学校 Moving Mandarin- Professional & Upper School 6437 3344 Flexible Private Chinese tutor > 5, 4th Block, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang District 朝阳区安 www.3eik.com SPA & MASSAGE 贞西里4区5号 (6444 8900) Moving Mandarin is a professional Chinese 9-1 Jiangtai Xilu Chaoyang District Dragonﬂy Therapeutic Retreat language education company located in Be- International School of Beijing 朝阳区将台西路9-1号(四德公园旁) ijing and Shanghai providing quality 1-on-1 Created as a contemporary urban retreat, 北京顺义国际学校 tutoring to busy working professionals at 朝阳区望京阜安西路11号楼合生麒麟社内 Dragonfly is an oasis of peace and tranquil- > www.isb.bj.edu.cn ity in the midst of the hectic city. a location of your choice. 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MAY 2014 79 SPORTS « football walks the walk Blowing the Whistle on Dodgy Officials

BY IAN WALKER

”Teams that had been getting beaten week-in-week-out suddenly started hammering top four teams 4-1. Maybe they’ve just got little alliances. Maybe someone owes them a favor“

The first time I thought something was up, was during my of a sudden there was a tussle in the box and the referee gave us a first season coaching Shanghai Shenhua back in 2012. It was penalty. approaching the end of the season and we were playing away to Even when it’s your own team you think it’s a bit soft. A bit a local rival. The game ended 2-2, with both of their goals coming dodgy. So anyway, we scored, we end up winning the game and from penalties. Both dubious at best. Something just wasn’t right. we’re safe. You’re still not 100 percent sure but it doesn’t sit well. Either the referee was really bad or he was corrupt. It was as simple You certainly don’t want to win that way. as that. This was when Didier Drogba and Nicolas Anelka were in the I was peeved off to be honest. You work really hard all week team, and they were both shocked by it. You can see the opposition to win a game and then it gets taken from you unfairly. You feel foreign players’ reactions to it too. They look at you and it’s like, powerless – there is absolutely nothing you can do. “Yeah, I know.” It’s impossible. When it happens against you… you After that particular game, there were perhaps another three can’t console them. It can really devastate a few of the players. or four matches that season where I felt things weren’t right. It is weird when you come from playing in the English Premier Again, mainly bad penalty decisions. We had a lot given against us. League where you like to think everything is straight. It just doesn’t Sometimes you think it could have been a penalty, but a lot of the occur to you that something like this might happen. It’s not an issue. time there was simply no way. Somebody’s just slipped over in the That’s not to say it doesn’t happen in Europe. My only box and the ref has given a penalty. No one has touched the player – experience of it was while playing for Bolton in the group stages he’s alone. of the Europa League. We had leveled 1-1 with Seville, a result that The funny thing is, one year later we returned to this same local would take us both through, and their coach ran round the back of rival: we drew 2-2; they got two penalties; both were dodgy. I mean, our dugout to our coach gesticulating, not particularly subtly, that it just felt ridiculous. we should both settle for the draw – no more goals. Looking back, it seems telling that I first observed these things Our coach would never allow that to happen. That is just not late in my first season in China. I vividly remember how during the English mindset, which is one of the reasons I think people like a team meeting, one of my fellow coaches had warned us that it our league. I’m happy to say the same goes for the club I’m at now, was imperative we avoid being in the relegation dogfight once we Shanghai East Asia. The manager is old-school, straight up, and approached the run-in: “when the season gets to 10 games to go, he won’t have any of it. Wherever we end up, he does everything there’s certain teams at the bottom of the league who will all of a honestly. It’s probably the best way. sudden start getting results.” As for how ingrained it is, I can’t say. You just never know what Sure enough, come the end of the season, that is exactly what forces are behind the whole thing. It could be a simple case of a started happening; teams that had been getting beaten week-in- few people being bunged envelopes for a quick, corrupt cash fix. week-out suddenly started hammering top four teams 4-1. Maybe But then, you hear stories about places like Malaysia with their they’ve just got little alliances. Maybe someone owes them a favor infamous betting syndicates and it makes you wonder – is the same – we’ll let you win in the cup for three points in the league. It’s going on here? Only time will tell. But in the coming seasons at least, impossible to say. I hope the CFA continues in its attempts to clamp down because Of course, it went in my favour at Shenhua once, too. The league ultimately, you have to ask yourself: if the game’s fixed, why play? was tight – a couple of wins could have put us top four; a couple of > Ian Walker is a former England international who played for Tottenham Hotspur, defeats and relegation would be a very real prospect. We weren’t Leicester City and Bolton Wanderers. He is now goalkeeping coach of Shanghai East playing well and everyone was getting a bit nervous. And then all Asia, and a newly signed That’s columnist.

80 MAY 2014