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Home and Community Fruit Growing

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Home and Community Fruit Growing Home and Community Fruit Growing Michael Lachance Virginia Cooperative Extension Nelson County Unit (434) 263-4035 [email protected] Reasons to 1. Local produced food Promote Fruit and beverages 2. Family’s quality of life / outdoor recreation 3. Preserve regional varieties 4. Social interaction 5. Value as landscape elements Meeting the challenges of growing fruit 1. Proper site selection 2. Correct training of young plants 3. Neglect and stress in the planting 4. Proper training 5. Accepting the need for plant protection 6. Sustaining people’s interest in fruit growing Site Selection • Soil Depth • Elevation • Slope • Aspect (N&E best, S&W worst) • Low temperature history • Nematodes? Avoid Wildlife Conflicts with Netting BRAMBLES BRAMBLES Brambles • Raspberries: – red, yellow: summer or fall bearing types – black: “blackcaps” used for jams, jellies – purple: red / black raspberry cross • Blackberries: – thorny or thornless – erect or trailing growth – range of winter hardiness • Blackberry / raspberry crosses: – boysenberry, tayberry, marionberry – not recommended for subzero temps Best Bramble Varieties • Summer Red Raspberries: – Titan, Killarney, Latham, Heritage, Ruby • Fall (Primocane) Raspberries: – Autumn Bliss, Heritage, Fall Gold, Anne • Black Raspberries: Bristol, Jewel • Purple Raspberries: Brandywine, Royalty • Blackberries: – thornless trailing: Chester, Triple Crown, Hull – thorny trailing: Black Butte – thornless erect: Navaho, Arapaho, Apache – thorny erect: Illini Hardy, Shawnee, Chickasaw Bramble Culture: Planting • Choose a well drained site and/or build raised beds • Build or improve the soil fertility • Remove old plantings, wild blackberries and raspberries from nearby • Use virus free certified plants from a reputable nursery • Recommend a spring planting • Trellis systems and spacing used based on type’s growth habit: – suckering or not sucker – single plant “hill” or solid hedgerow • Mulch new plants and provide good nutrition Bramble Culture: Planting • Plant in the spring before soil warms with either root cuttings or plants. Plants especially for thornless varieties • Root cuttings should be pencil size and 4-6” long • Rows should be 10-12 feet apart • Plant spacing varies • Cover cuttings with 2-3” soil Bramble Culture: Seasonal Practices • Fertilize in spring, add mulch and keep rows weed free • Growth, bearing habits, pruning differs – laterals encouraged by pinching @3-4’ in PR, BR – red raspberries, trailing blackberries are not pinched • Prompt harvest, remove bad berries • Winter: thin new canes, head tops, trim laterals Bramble Fertilizer Recommendations • 5 pounds complete fertilizer first year per 100 feet of row • Second year increase to 20 pounds alongside rows in February • Side dress with 5 pounds per 100 feet with ammoniumm nitrate after harvest • Cultivate to keep weeds out Bramble Culture: Seasonal Practices • Growth, bearing habits, pruning differs – laterals encouraged by pinching @3-4’ in PR, BR – red raspberries, trailing blackberries are not pinched • Prompt harvest, remove bad berries • Winter: thin new canes, head tops, trim laterals Raspberries Spacing and Trellising of Raspberry Black raspberry •Low trellis •Plants 3-4 feet apart in the row •Trellis spaced 10-12 feet apart Red and yellow raspberry •Low trellis •Plants 2-3 feet apart in the row •Trellis spaced 10 feet apart Purple raspberry •Vigorous plants do not require trellis •Plants 3-5 feet apart in the row •Rows spaced 10 feet apart Blackberries Production Considerations Leave 6 canes per foot in rows kept to 12-18” wide by removing suckers Drip irrigate 2-3 gallons per plant per day in dry weather Promote laterals by topping ends of canes when they reach height of 36 to 48 inches Summer: pinch-head back tips to 30” Production Considerations Remove laterals to 8-10” during the winter Take out old canes after fruiting Trellis Support Shift Trellis for Blackberries Blueberries Lowbush- mostly processed Northern Highbush Rabbiteye Southern Highbush Plants can bear fruit for 50 years or more Choose varieties according to ripening season using more than one variety in the same maturity group A. Early season: “Bluetta”, “Earliblue”, “Duke”, “Patriot” B. Midseason “Bluecrop”, “Blueray”, “Northland” C. Late season “Jersey”, “Coville” D. Very Late season “Late Blue” (Aug- Sept.) Production Considerations • Crop evolved in low pH conditions, very well drained soils with high organic matter content • Requires abundant sunlight • Has a relatively shallow root system; trickle irrigation is recommended • Desired soil pH 4.5-5.0 • Plants grow to 4-8 feet tall Production Considerations • Add up to 20% organic matter in the planting hole • Can apply up to 4 inches of rotted sawdust as a surface mulch • Remove flower blossoms for first two years, half of buds in the third year • Practice dormant pruning once established • Remove crowded small branches and material in the center of crown Strawberries Strawberry Types • June Bearers – most common and dependable – early, mid and late season: May-June – Earliglow, Honeoye, Red Chief, Allstar, Jewell – Consider: dessert / preserving, disease resistance • Everbearers – June and fall peaks – varieties: Quinault, Ozark Beauty • Day-Neutrals – production through season, smaller fruit – good for contained space – varieties: Tribute, Tristar Planting Strawberries 1. Soil pH @ 6.5 to 6.8 2. Ground must be weed free, prepare one year prior 3. Work soil to 8-12” 4. Include half to one pound 10-10-10/100 sq. ft. (22-44# N/acre) Planting Strawberries 1. Order from a reputable nursery 2. Keep bundles of young plants together 3. Plant as early as possible in the spring 4. Plan for 14-18 inch matted rows 5. Water in young plants well 6. Proper planting depth very important. 7. Check weeds by cultivating weekly Matted Row Strawberry Renovation • Renovation or Bed Renewal: – done annually or every other year – stimulates new growth – removes old, diseased leaves • Steps of Renovation: – do within 1 week of end of harvest – mow old leaves above crown, rake off – thin old crowns, narrow rows – hoe weeds, apply herbicide (Dacthal) – fertilize:1-2 lbs. 10-10-10/100 ft2 – irrigate Other Small Fruit • Gooseberries, Currants: – tolerate some shade – organic matter & mulch important – some pruning to keep productive • Pawpaws: – difficult to dig in wild – use shade cover the first year • Elderberries: – plant a named variety: Johns, York, Adams – protect from birds • Hardy Kiwis – choose well drained site, build sturdy trellis – 1 male : 5 female plants ratio Tree Fruit Common questions • Selecting the right rootstock • Pruning and training young trees • Proper thinning • Achieving quality fruit at harvest • Know reasons trees fail to produce fruit • Control of insects and diseases • Renovating older trees Variety Selection • Choose varieties adapted to our soil and climatic conditions • Select varieties with the fewest insect and disease problems • Several varieties of the same kind of fruit maturing at different times may be planted to prolong the harvest season. Variety Selection • Sour cherry, peach, and nectarine varieties listed are sufficiently self-fruitful to set satisfactory crops with their own pollen. • Apricots are not recommended for planting in Virginia. The buds of currently available varieties respond to the first warm days of early spring and are usually killed by frost or low temperature common to most areas. Unless protection can be provided, a crop can be expected no more frequently than once every four or five years. Apple Rootstocks Tree Spacing Orchard Management Cultural Practices • Young fruit trees should be mulched or cultivated until they begin to bear. • Weeds must be eliminated so they will not compete for available moisture and fertilizer. • Cultivation must be shallow to avoid injury to roots near the surface. The cultivated or mulched area should extend a little beyond the spread of the branches. Orchard Management • Both organic and inorganic mulch (i.e., black plastic) provide habitats for voles. • Organic forms of mulch also release nitrogen throughout the season, which affects the grower’s ability to control when and how much nitrogen is available. If trees are mulched, the mulch should be removed in the fall. Fertilization • Soil pH between 6.0 and 6.5. • No fertilizer is recommended or needed at planting time. • After the young tree becomes established and growth begins, apply nitrate fertilizer in a circle around the tree, about 8 to 10 inches from the trunk. • Fertilize young trees three times. – Two weeks after planting – Again six and 10 weeks after planting Fertilization • A rule of thumb practiced in many commercial apple orchards is to apply about 1/4 pound of a 16% nitrogen fertilizer, or its equivalent, for each year of the tree’s age from planting • For peach orchards, the amount of fertilizer should be doubled • When trees are grown in a lawn area, delay fertilizing the lawn until after trees are dormant to avoid late- summer growth on the trees. Fertilization • Scatter fertilizer evenly under the tree, starting about 2 feet from the trunk and extending to just beyond the tips of the branches • Mature, bearing trees of peach, nectarine, and sweet cherry should produce an average of 10 to 15 inches of new growth annually • 8 to 10 inches of terminal growth is considered adequate for mature, bearing apple, pear, quince, plum, and sour cherry trees. Organic Fertility Management • One bushel of composted manure per tree each year up to age 5 is adequate. • After age 5 dwarf trees still only need one bushel but semi dwarf and seedling apples can use up to 3 bushels per tree per year. • Use only enough to insure 8 to 12 inches of new growth after year 5. • On many clay and clay loam soils no fertilizer is needed to produce adequate growth for many years. Fruit Tree Development Pruning • All pruning has a dwarfing effect • For maximum yield of high-quality fruit, prune only as necessary to establish a tree with a strong framework capable of supporting heavy crops annually without damage • Maintain the tree sufficiently open to allow penetration of sunlight, air, and spray material for good fruit development and pest control.
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