Summer Fruit Tree Pruning

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Summer Fruit Tree Pruning By: Alicia Lamborn, Environmental Horticulture Agent, UF/IFAS Extension Baker County While most fruit pruning jobs are completed during the winter dormant season, some fruiting plants also require attention during the summer and fall months. Peaches/Nectarines/Plums: May - August In the dormant season, major pruning involves maintaining the overall height of the tree canopy as well as maintaining the open center of the canopy which allows light in to stimulate growth of new fruiting wood and improve fruit quality. Lighter pruning for the same reasons can be accomplished during the summer after fruit is harvested. For videos on peach pruning and more, visit: http://trec.ifas.ufl.edu/fruitscapes/Fruitscapes- videos/peaches/playlist1/peach_tree_pruing.shtml Figs: June - July (after fruit harvest) Established plants can be pruned after fruit harvest to eliminate dead or diseased limbs, limbs that cross each other especially if rubbing together, and to remove long slender “water sprouts”. Larger plants can be trimmed back to maintain the bushy shape and make reaching fruit easier. Blueberries: July – August Established plants can be topped to control height and encourage branching after fruit is harvested. Depending on the size of the bush, the canopy height can be reduced by several inches up to a foot or more. This prevents plants from becoming too tall and will stimulate new growth that will become next year’s crop. Blackberries: Late Summer to Fall Blackberries produce fruit on one year old canes, known as floricanes. These were vegetative canes (called primocanes) the previous year. After fruiting, floricanes dry up and die. They should be pruned out and removed at the ground or crown level as soon as they die. In a healthy blackberry stand, five to six canes per foot of row is ideal after pruning, and blackberries can form a solid hedgerow. The Foundation for the Gator Nation - An Equal Opportunity Institution.

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FRUIT TREE PRUNING SCHS MONTHLY As a Follow-Up to Glovinsky’S Lecture, Supplied All of the GARDEN SHARE the SCHS Also Booked Her for Our First “Live” Tools
Southern California Horticultural Society Where passionate gardeners meet to share knowledge and learn from each other. socalhort.org NEWSLETTER August 2021 OUR NEXT SCHS WELCOMES CONNECT WITH SCHS IN THIS ISSUE IN-PERSON MEETING NEW MEMBERS Please engage with us online! August Program and Membership News . 1 Thursday, August 12 July brought us the following: FIND US AT: Doors Open: 7:00 p.m. Beverly Alison www.socalhort.org July Program Recap, CITG Report and Garden Share . 2 Plant Forum at 7:10 p.m. * Darrell Banta www.facebook.com/pg/socalhort Announcements at 7:25 p.m. Gina Bush * www.instagram.com/socalhort Horticultural Happenings, Live Program at 7:30 p.m. Bridget Lee * Guillaume Lemoine d Events and SCHS Archives . 3 * Live-Streaming Wendy Talaro Register to view live at: All membership options Upcoming Programs and www.socalhort.org We appreciate your support! are also listed on our website. SCHS Contact info. 4 Gardening Tools of the Trade MEMBERSHIP NEWS On August 12, the SCHS is excited to will therefore be discussing a variety of “LIVE” AUGUST SCHS MEETING meet in person for the first time since gardening tools and their uses, providing The August meeting will be an in-person February of 2020. Joining us to present practical advice derived from first-hand event, as well as live-streaming for those a program on gardening tools will be knowledge. During her program she will who prefer to watch from home. We will be horticulturist also share insights on how to properly practicing safety protocols for everyone’s protection, not be serving refreshments, and educator Jill use and care for our garden tools to keep and – per the L.A.
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TEN BASICS of WHEN and HOW to PRUNE FRUIT TREES by Paul Vossen
TEN BASICS OF WHEN AND HOW TO PRUNE FRUIT TREES by Paul Vossen 1. Prune fruit trees when the leaves are off (dormant). It’s easier to see what you are doing and removal of dormant buds (growing points) invigorates the remaining buds. Summer pruning removes leaves (food manufacturer), slows fruit ripening, and exposes fruit to sunburn. Summer pruning can be used, however, to slow down overly vigorous trees or trees that are too large. It is most effective in early summer. 2. Right after planting a new tree, cut it off to a short stick 24 to 30 inches high and cut any side shoots remaining below that to 1-2 buds. This encourages low branching and equalizes the top and root system. Paint the tree with white latex paint to protect it from sunburn and borer attack. 3. Low vigor, young trees should be pruned fairly heavily and encouraged to grow rapidly for the first 3 years without much fruit. Leave most of the small horizontal branches untouched for later fruiting. Vigorous growing, young trees can be pruned much less or not at all and encouraged to fruit earlier with branch bending. 4. Topping a vertical branch encourages vegetative growth necessary for development of the tree and creates a bushing effect. Topping horizontal branches is done to renew fruiting wood and to thin off excessive fruit. Thinning vertical branches opens the tree to more light. Thinning horizontal branches removes fruit. Horizontal branches left uncut will bear earlier and heavier crops. 5. Upright branches generally remain vegetative and vigorous.
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Fruit Tree Pruning Handout
FRUIT TREE PRUNING SESSION Whether the tree is large or small, the key is to prune the unwanted branch while protecting the stem or trunk wood of the tree. All pruning cuts should be made on the branch side of this stem collar To prevent tearing of the bark and stem wood, particularly in the case of larger branches or V crotch, use the following procedure: 1. Make a small wedge shaped cut on the underside of the branch just on the branch side of the stem collar. This will break the bark at that point and prevent a tear from running along the bark and stem tissue. 2. Somewhat farther along the branch, starting at the top of the branch, cut all the way through the branch leaving a stub end. 3. Finally, make a third cut parallel to and just on the branch side of the of the stem collar to reduce the length of the stub as much as possible. Cut thin diameter branches ¼ inch above a bud that is facing in a direction you want the new branch to grow. Make the cut on an angle to shed water and promote faster healing. References: UC/ANR Over all tips http://homeorchard.ucanr.edu/The_Big_Picture/Pruning_&_Training/ 10 Basics of how and when to prune fruit trees - http://cesonoma.ucdavis.edu/files/27164.pdf Pruning overgrown fruit trees: http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/8058.pdf Pruning Deciduous Fruit trees: http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/8057.pdf Other http://www.treehelp.com/howto/howto-prune-a-tree.asp http://modernfarmer.com/2015/02/right-cut/ Citrus Pruning http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1455.pdf Master Gardeners of Alameda County website
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The Fruit Trees Rootstock Information Is Below, Please Refer to the Rootstock While Reading the Instructions
The fruit trees rootstock information is below, please refer to the rootstock while reading the instructions. Apple Rootstocks: Ambrosia: G-11 : It has moderately high resistance to fire blight, good resistance to Phytophthora root rot, but is not resistant to woolly apple aphids. It does not express the virus sensitivity of G-16. G-11 is similar to M-9, it produces intermediate trees similar to EMLA 26. Advantages include a well anchored, collar rot-resistant EMLA 111 tree, with the dwarfing and precocity of the M–9 interstem. Crimson Crisp:G-16: A dwarfing rootstock , G-16 produces a tree similar in size to trees on M–9 clones. Its desirable characteristics include high yield efficiency and resistance to burr knots and root suckers. G-16 shows strong resistance to fire blight and some tolerance to apple replant disease. Due to virus sensitivity, G-16 is available only with certain scion combinations. Pear Rootstocks: Bartlett and Shenandoah Pear: OHxF87: For growers who wish to plant a higher density pear orchard, we recommend planting trees on OHxF87. These can be planted at 5’ in row and 12-14’ between rows. Preparation for Planting How do I choose a good site for my trees? Fruit trees prefer well-drained soils. Avoid low areas subject to frost. Elevated sites that are sloped are ideal. If possible arrange rows to run North to South. Northern aspects are generally more frost tolerant. Fruit trees should be planted in full sun. How big of a hole should I dig? A minimum 18" x 18" hole is recommended.
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Summer Fruit Tree Pruning
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Fruit Tree Training and Pruning Cooperator: The Orchard Project “Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day; teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.” Demonstrations are an important key to successful educational programs. They show the university research in real world situations and they help teach people through hands-on learning, not just lectures. Another key factor is that they allow the audience to see the agent getting real work done alongside the clientele, which makes agents more relatable. I conducted a hands-on fruit tree pruning and training workshop for the Orchard Project onsite at their West Vine Street property. The Orchard Project is a community-based hunger program focused on providing sustainable long-term food sources for individuals locally by planting perennial crops such as small fruits and fruit trees. Currently they have a half-acre orchard at 1211 West Vine Street and one at 110 North Oak in Searcy planted with blueberries, raspberries, muscadines, a variety of apples, mulberries, pears, apricots, plums, and peaches. The location on Vine street is a busy pathway for high school students (around 50) who walk to school every day. This is located in an economically disadvantaged neighborhood and the families struggle to put food on the table. The orchard is there to help provide fresh fruit for anyone, especially the youth on their way to and from school. Their motto is, the trees are God’s, the fruit is yours. Visit their Facebook page at: https://www.facebook.com/SearcyOrchardProject/?epa=SEARCH_BOX The workshop was featured on social media and promoted through the White County Horticulture newsletter, reaching 21003 indirect and 2311 direct contacts.
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2020 MASTER PRUNER CLASS SCHEDULE Bellevue Botanical Garden This series of classes is February 4, 2020 taught by experts in tree and 9 a.m. —11 a.m. Trees I with Bess Bronstein plant care. This is the science and biology behind the pruning of trees. Find out how to minimize that damage and To receive a work with the tree’s natural defenses. We will also cover the basics of tree risk assessment. Master Pruner certificate, 12 p.m.—2 p.m. Trees II with Bess Bronstein you need to attend 12 differ- This is the HOW TO class for pruning trees. How to prune a tree limb, find the branch collar, prune young ent classes and 3 hands-on and mature trees, pruning standards, crown restoration and the basics of tree risk assessment. workshops. February 11, 2020 If you’re not interested in 9 a.m.—11 a.m. Shrubs I: The Friendly, Fearless and Forgiving with George Lasch the whole series, just attend This class covers basic cuts, basic plant habits and what Cass Turnbull called the “pruning budget”. It also the classes that interest you. covers five plants that are relatively easy to prune: nandina, evergreen azalea, lilac, camellia and yew. LOCATION 12 p.m.—2 p.m. Shrubs II: The Shearables, Hackables and Untouchables with Anna Moore Aaron Education Center at There are some plants that are cut to the ground each year, but there are others you barely touch and it’s pandemonium! Find out which ones are which, as well as which plants can be sheared every year.
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