The www.perfumesociety.org scentedTASTER ISSUE letter

YOUR ULTIMATE PERFUME SOCIETY turning BENEFIT

JASM+INE AWARD-WINNING scents WRITING into + YOUR FINGER words ON THE PULSE editor’s letter contents

Welcome to this ‘taster’ edition of The Scented Letter.

We wanted you to be able to enjoy some of the features and news we’ve shared with our subscribers since our launch.

The downloadable magazine is one of the many benefits of belonging to The Perfume Society, with eight editions a year - generally around 48 pages of fragrant news, latest launches, and interviews with some of the perfume world’s most fascinating individuals. (You might also like to know there’s a print edition available to buy, too.)

We’re delighted already to have won several Jasmine Awards – and we bring hides and chic perfume is an addiction you some of the award-winning features here, including Suzy Nightingale’s look WAKE UP AND SMELL THE LEATHER #sharemystash at the lure of leather, on p.8, and Persolaise’s exploration of incense fragrances, Leather may be many things, says Suzy Nightingale – but as a Award-winning Adam Reed shares his not-so-secret fragrance on p.22. In this year’s awards, we were also thrilled that talented team member fragrance ingredient, it’s not for wimps obsession, opening up his collection for our inspection Carson Parkin-Fairley was shortlisted as for the new ‘Rising Star’ Award; you can enjoy her feature on scented cocktails – a fragrant trend – on p.18. 8 14 One of the other very popular elements of The Scented Letter is our run-down of ‘Latest Launches’. This sampler edition features just some of the recent

releases - and some for men, too - but we cover them all, so you can keep your darkthe master delights of modern femininity

We asked the award-winning author and blogger to share his very finger on the pulse-point of all that’s new. personal, ‘smoking’ scent choices – from the smouldering to the spiritual…

As I sit down to write these words, I can’t stop myself from 1 Comme des Garçons

chuckling. When The Perfume Society asked me to put aviGnon together a piece about my favourite incense perfumes, Each of the perfumes in CdG’s they said that one of the reasons they thought I was the incense series is worth checking right candidate for the assignment was that I grew up in the out, but Avignon towers above We constantly celebrate the power that aroma has to to transport us through Middle East. the rest. Composed by Bertrand Little did they know how many buttons in my psyche Duchaufour - a perfumer who has they were pushing. In fact, at this very moment, even I can’t made incense his calling card - it quite believe how deeply the subject of incense cuts into is without any doubt the first time and space. When life gave Yasemen Kaner-White lemons, she didn’t make my soul. Part of the problem is that I’m writing this in a scent I reach for when I want to place that makes it very difficult for me to be objective be reminded of the profound about my past. What is this discombobulating location? serenity inside an empty Well, as it happens, it’s Dubai. But this is most certainly not cathedral. It is note-perfect: the the city of my childhood. dustiness, the faintly lemony lemonade; instead, the fruit set her off on a whole new career path, as she For a start, twenty years ago, when I left the UAE, the note, the mineral facet, the all-consuming giant that is The Dubai Mall was probably woods, the smoke... They all little more than a faint spark of an idea in a sheikh’s come together to create what ambitious mind. What’s more, the notion of a branch of begs to be described as a Ladurée in the UAE almost certainly hadn’t been conceived religious experience. explains in her sense-awakening feature on p.30. in any shape or form. And yet, here I am, sipping a chocolate Viennois, wryly thinking that my view isn’t 2 Tauer Perfumes

altogether different from when I’m at the patisserie’s inCense exTrême Harrods boutique: I’m surrounded by heavily made-up If Avignon is the first fragrance I ladies in black abayas and bearded men in dishdashas so go to when I need an incense white, they’re almost glowing. kick, then Andy Tauer’s Incense But superficial similarities aside, this definitely isn’t Extrême is what I choose when I London. If it were, it wouldn’t confuse me and unsettle me need something that lasts just a in the way that only childhood haunts can. And that’s where little bit longer. Cleaner and At The Perfume Society, we’re fascinated by every aspect of fragrance and the incense comes into the picture. Its unmistakable, smoother than the closer ancient smell seems to hide in every corner of the air. Each CdG, it nevertheless time someone walks past me, there it is, hand in hand with presents an entirely rose or sandalwood. In fact, Dubai Mall’s very own convincing depiction the sense of smell - and we want to share that with you. Helen Keller – the ‘signature’ perfume - pumped throughout the place of the material, as to and noticeable as soon as you enter - is a limpid, tranquil and watery incense composition, reminiscent of Olivia composed as a row of Giacobetti’s Passage D’Enfer for L’Artisan Parfumeur. It nuns with their heads fills my lungs and my mind, and then I’m off... bowed in prayer. young deaf and blind woman who has been an inspiration to so many – once I remember strolling through the old Al Ghurair mall in the early 80s, perplexed and fascinated by the burnt smells 3 Tom ford

coiling around me. I remember my Dad telling me that sahara noir heaven incense resin was what he and his friends used as chewing Forget chastity and PersoLaise’s called smell ‘the fallen angel of our senses’. At The Perfume Society, through gum when they were kids. No joke! You put a tiny lump in piety: this is incense as a your mouth and work at it with your tongue and your teeth very, very naughty boy favouriTe until it grows soft and rubbery. It’s a curious sensation - but indeed! Created by Rodrigo incense if Wikipedia is anything to go by, it’s a darn sight better Flores-Roux, it takes its for you than Wrigleys. I even remember night-time star ingredient and our website, our many events and this magazine, feedback tells us that we are Perfumes masses in Warsaw, the church thick with smoke, the rolls it around in the atmosphere injected with an added frisson as Poland mud with fierce was under Communist rule at the time. (I did warn resins and growling you: this subject probes to the very base of my animalic notes. A helping that angel to ‘fly’ again – and enabling longstanding scent-lovers and psyche.) beast that I always But before I end up writing an autobiography, I enjoy trying to tame. think I’d better stop and simply say that if perfume Sadly, it’s about to and incense are interchangeable terms (which they be discontinued, almost are) and if perfume is one of the all-abiding so grab it while those new to the magic of fragrance to get more pleasure out of life. constants in my life (which it pretty much is) then you can.

24 The scented LeTTer The scented LeTTer 15 Hope you love losing yourself in these pages... become a mixologist dark delights THE SCENTED COCKTAIL CLOSER TO HEAVEN One of the hottest fragrance trends we’ve seen 2015 has Award-winning blogger Persolaise shares his top incense- been for perfume-inspired drinks powered fragrances, from the smouldering to the spiritual

18 22

www.perfumesociety.org 4 26 30 nosing around latest launches it takes me right back

2 The scented Letter The scented Letter 3 on the scent of news

Roll with it… One of the cleverest bottles nosing around we’ve ever seen: heritage fragrance house E. Coudray Alongside our round-up of scent news - about people, places (and clever (whose fascinating history you packaging) - our series about legendary ‘noses’ continues overleaf can read on our website) offer their vintage-inspired scents in a double-ended vial which Time for (more) tea spritzes on at one end, glides onto skin at the other. Genius. Tapping into the tea trend we reported on in the last edition of The Scented Letter, Jo Malone London launch their most luxe collection Scented scribbles of fragrances yet. Rare Teas – created by Serge Majouillier – evoke six Love stationery? Love different precious infusions, from Silver Needle and fragrance? Then you’ll adore Golden Needle to Darjeeling via Jade Leaf, these scented pencils from Oolong and Midnight Black Tea, in ravishing British stationer Imogen Owen. new black-capped bottles. Hand-made by a 100-year- £250 for 175ml Cologne old Portuguese pencil factory, jomalonelondon.com they’ll lightly scent your writing paper in a choice of lily of the valley, jasmine or peony. Petal power £11.50 for six If you haven’t already noticed, this quillondon.com £19 for 12ml eau de toilette entire edition is dedicated to jasmine. roullierwhite.com But did you know that in research published in The Journal of Biological Chemistry, it was found that a jasmine-scented fragrance relieved The couple that sprays together, stays together… anxiety and promoted sleep just as well as sedatives, but with way fewer Choosing a scent for any special occasion is hard enough side-effects…? for fragrance-lovers, but a wedding day – already fraught with choice – adds that extra level of perfume pressure. Step forward Floris, the heritage British brand who now offering a luxurious ‘Together Bespoke Perfumery Service’ for couples looking to mark the big day (or any momentous occasion) with their very own bespoke pair of eaux de parfum. During an intensive three- hour private appointment, couples will be greeted by Bonjour, Provence a member of the Floris As we prepared this edition, Petit family, while sipping Champagne and being introduced to their Rituels’ beautiful aromatherapeutic in-house perfumer. Floris will then create two completely Provence candle has been unique fragrances, presented in bottles engraved with your fragrancing our office, transporting us initials and with a certificate of authenticity to keep long to the south of France with a breeze after the last drop has been spritzed. We can’t think of a of balancing rose geranium, tonic better way to celebrate... ylang ylang and calming lavender. Created from 100% natural waxes, this Floris Together Bespoke Perfumery Service/£800 for Zen-like candle has a burn time of 40 two people at 89 Jermyn Street, London SW1Y 6JH/ hours. It’s just one of several fabulous, 0330-134 0180, and the Floris Belgravia Boutique at all-natural fragrances in this exciting 147 Ebury Street, London SW1W 9QN/ new addition to the world of home 020-7730 0304. scents. £35 at petitsrituels.com © chorchfoto; BillionPhotos.com - Fotolia.com © chorchfoto;

4 The scented Letter The scented Letter 5 a whiff of history on the scent of news

Lives of the great noses: + François Coty (1874-1934) The man who ‘popularised’ course, the fragrances themselves. perfume, François Coty was He was the master of savvy born François Marie Joseph marketing, working with Baccarat Spoturno in Ajaccio, then capital and René Lalique to create the most of French Corsica. His family stunning flacons – for fragrances were descendants, by marriage, like L’Effleur, Au Couer des Calices of Napoleon’s cousin Isabelle and L’Idylle (some of which you Bonaparte, and Coty (whose can see below), while at the same adopted name was a variation on his time pricing his fragrances to make Perfume is like mother’s maiden name, ‘Coti’) had them accessible to a wide audience. “ an early obsession with the great He had enormous successes with a new dress. French leader. fragrances including L’Origan, After the premature death of which claimed the No. 1 spot for 25 It makes you his parents, François was sent years after its launch, while Ambre to live with his grandmother in Antique paved the way for great quite simply Marseilles, and at the age of 19 Orientals such as Shalimar and YSL A breath of fresh hair began his military service. Via a Opium. By 1931 it is estimated that marvellous. chance meeting in 1900 with a Coty was the richest man in France, Estée Lauder Whether you’re covering up a less-than-fresh-smelling ‘do’, or want to chemist called Raymond Goery with a fortune of $50 million dollars, enjoy scented locks with every swish, you’ll no doubt be as pleased as we when he was 26, Coty discovered bottle on either the counter or the having expanded into America as are to discover that BYREDO’s adding four new scents to its Hair Perfume he had a talent for identifying the floor (history’s not clear exactly well as across Europe. Collection with La Tulipe, Mojave Ghost, Black Saffron and Flowerhead – all notes in a fragrance. Not a fan which!). The store was filled with Coty died on 25th July 1934 of specially formulated with a unique silicone and polymer formula to leave hair of Goery’s packaging or perfume the aroma of the fragrance, women pneumonia and complications, aged nourished, luminous and gorgeously fragrant. £40 for 75ml/byredo.com creations, Coty vowed he could do clamoured to buy it – and Coty had just 60. ‘One thing eluded me,’ Coty ” better himself, landing a position his first order, for 12 bottles. confessed, in the year of his death. I with Chiris, in Grasse, the centre of In 1904, Coty founded his own never managed to capture the smell French and international perfumery. perfume house, setting out to of honeysuckle…’ There, Coty formulated the revolutionise an industry which had But with his ‘Coty’ name still in fragrance which would make his barely changed during the previous proud use today by the company name: La Rose Jacqueminot (1903). century. He bought a residential behind some of the world’s most As legend has it, Coty scored his villa outside Paris and transformed it successful fragrances – brands first of many marketing coups when into a giant complex which became like MiuMiu, Calvin Klein, Bottega he took it to Les Grands Magasins known as ‘Perfume City’, with Coty Veneta and Davidoff, among many That Hungry Chef du Louvre, a Parisian department controlling and overseeing every others – François Coty’s is quite store, seeking to persuade them last detail of his business from some scented legacy. Michelin-trained Pratap Chalal is in to stock his fragrance. In a well- the flower fields to the packaging the vanguard of chefs emphasising planned move, he smashed his factories, the delivery vans – and of By Bethan Cole food’s fragrant side. Inspired by Mandy Aftel’s inspirational book Perfume: An Edible Scent, the Lalique and Baccarat bottles delectable menu will have your made Coty’s scents ultra-special mouth watering well in advance of his five-course ‘supper club’ dinners. Think: sweet myrrh and labdanum A real ‘bouquet’ scented-beef. Think: jasmine and tuberose creamy pudding. Think: Magnificent Muguet Would you rather have roses white chocolate, neroli and rosemary Another year, another swoonworthy that smelled glorious – or lasted truffles, which melt in your mouth bottle: to celebrate 1st May (the longer in a vase…? It’s a trade- like tiny pieces of heaven. Keep an French holiday when it’s a custom to off, acknowledge experts, but eye out for Pratap’s Edible Scent offer lily of the valley to those you we’re definitely in the ‘scented’ soirées on grubclub.com (he’s called love), Guerlain’s sublime Muguet camp, and delighted to hear ‘That Hungry Chef’) and on our own Eau de Toilette bottle is this year that Waitrose Florist now offer EVENTS section: we’ve hosted several all dressed up in chased silver roses bred for perfume – both a gourmet scented supper for our VIP metalwork by Parisian jewellery on-line and in-store, from £30. Subscribers, and are planning more. house Ambre & Louise. Truly a waitroseflorist.com

grubclub.com/that-hungry-chef collector’s dream… Klenova - Fotolia.com © Natalia

The scented Letter 7 6 The scented Letter hidesthe master and chic of modern femininity

Suzy Nightingale discovers why leather and fragrance go hand-in-glove - and WAKE UP explores the scents you should be getting up close and personal with…

AND SNIFF THE simply wasn’t done musk and oils could be blended LEATHERS TO LOVE… to present a pair of happily enough. But how to adapt L’Artisan Parfumer Dzing! Sticky exquisitely tailored the essence of a skin – something handfuls of stolen sweeties eaten in leather gloves to the used as a fabric – and transpose a sawdust-strewn stable. King still redolent that to a liquid…? James obviously It of the pungently performed his magic trick rather Caron Tabac Blond Furtive malodourous tanning process. well, by the way, for the resulting cigarettes smoked in a leather-clad And the rest of the aristocracy creation - the very first leather- starlet’s dressing room. didn’t much fancy stinking of smelling scent, as far as records unmentionables, either. Thus the show - was Creed Royal English Chanel Les Exclusifs Cuir de perfume industry as we know it – Leather, still in production to this Russie Lipstick-smeared leather based in Grasse – was born, the very day (although alas not retailed boot ground into rain-filled ashtray leather being treated with fragrant in the UK…) (in a very good way). oils of musk, civet and ambergris to But when we describe a scent as leather mask the smell of the animal’s skins ‘leathery’, what do we actually smell? by the ‘parfumeur gantiers’: a Guild Let’s get this straight: it’s not leather of Parisian glove-makers which dates itself. But there is an alchemy that as far back as the 15th Century. master noses perform on a daily King George III was apparently so basis, magically recreating smells taken with his scented gloves that through a blend of synthetics he wanted the fragrance bottled, and natural ingredients so thus commissioning Creed in 1781 that we can’t tell them from to recreate the scent as something real. They can evoke the scent he could splash about the royal of leather by taking disparate personage to his heart’s content. raw ingredients such as birch This presented James Creed (then tar (which has a leathery royal glove-maker extraordinaire) smokiness) and juniper, fizzed

© Marco Santi Amantini; moonrise - Fotolia.com Santi © Marco with something of a problem, as the up with the soapy

24 The scented Letter The scented Letter 9 hides and chic

Hermès Kelly Calèche

cleanliness of aldehydes or – with Here, in-house nose Jean-Claude Ellena set today’s technology – incredibly life- about concocting ‘... a perfume of leather and like molecular constructs such as flowers, as light as an angel’s wing.’ Hermès Pyralone (a.k.a Iso Butyl Quinoline) relay the story of the bag’s transformation which has the sweet warmth of from perhaps the all-time iconic status-symbol slightly steaming fresh hay mixed accessory (popularised by and eventually with newly-milled green wood and a named after American actress turned fairytale drier, tobacco-esque note. princess, Grace Kelly) to spitzable fantasy: This particular synthetic was used ‘A reminder of a visit to the Hermès leather Paco Rabanne 1 Million Mulberry Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque in deliberately hedonistic overdose vaults, Kelly Calèche is a light, feminine, joyous bag-toting heiress eating pancakes Spice-laden port swigged from a by master perfumer Germaine expression of leather. It gives a nod to two in- from a golden platter. goat-skin goblet. Cellier in her rambunctiously furtive house emblems, and translates the perfumer’s Bandit for Robert Piguet. Also the tactile and olfactory emotions into an evocation creator of the frankly giddying of leather worn next to the tuberose Fracas for Piguet, Cellier skin, gently tanned by the infamously declared that heady touch, and edged with white floral ‘for the femmes’ while fresh petals.’ her Bandit she reserved ‘for the Leather in dykes.’ Make of that what you will, “ but she clearly wasn’t blending quiet scents for the shy and retiring, perfumery is not a ladling in the Pyralone with gleeful abandon. When Bandit launched to natural essential the public, Piguet presented it by using models on the runway wearing oil that you buy: masks and brandishing toy knives and guns - a rather daring and, some you have to make would say, even shocking image used to sell a scent (not least as this occurred a year before the end of your leather accord World War II). Leather may be many things, but it ain’t for wimps - in BeauFort London Coeur de Dior Collection Privée Cuir fashion and fragrance alike. Noir Vanilla pipe-smoking Cannage Lipstick-kissed letters Self-taught perfumer Andy Tauer aesthete’s ink-stained library desk. tied with lace and hidden in a trunk. explained to The Perfume Society how he likes to use leather in his creations, because of the particular scent memories the use of this note ” brings back so vividly for him. ‘The first association, when you tell me “leather”, honestly, is “Swiss Army” (as so often in perfumery) the - and me serving there as soldier: flowers. Flowers bloom on skin my generation had the privilege when there´s leather in the base of of serving in thick leather shoes a fragrance. It’s like sticking brightly that were made to endure a Swiss coloured flowers into my army invasion of Moscow, including boots. Wonderful - and a reminder tramping all the way back. As mixed of how precious peace is, too…’ as my memories of proudly serving Leo Crabtree - founder of literary in the Swiss Army are, I loved the and maritime-history inspired new scent of my leather boots…’ fragrance house, BeauFort London ‘Leather in perfumery is not a - is also self-confessed lover of natural essential oil that you buy: leather, and explained its use in you have to make your leather their Coeur de Noir. ‘For me, the accord. Birch tar can be one of the leather needed to be hushed but ingredients going in there. Leather absolutely there. I see it as a sort of Boadicea the Victorious Warrioress Tom Ford Tuscan Leather Nefarious Illuminum Piper Leather Pepper- as a side note brings out, by contrast envelope that acts as a base Battle-scarred breastplate on an limousine antics involving chocolate, speckled leather-bound poetry incense-infused funeral pyre. raspberries & cigars. book pressing jasmine petals. 24 The scented Letter The scented Letter 11 hides and chic

for the accords of dry paper and remained close to me throughout my that you could almost reach out and ink - much in the same way a book’s life) but in my mind these elements stroke it. leather binding holds it together. are duly distorted into a shape the Indeed, as part of the questions It is structurally essential but not fragrance faithfully recreates.’ in our Smelling Notes (individual overbearing. I know I am not alone A plethora of materials both postcards accompanying each in loving the smell of bookshops and natural and synthetic, then, may be fragrance in our Discovery Boxes), libraries, and here my aim was partly sculpted in varying ways to create and during our ‘How to Improve to recreate a visual hallucination anything from a soothingly skin- Your Sense of Smell Workshops’ (see I have of my grandfather’s study, like scent to a library. Or perhaps, the Events section on our website which incorporated the “old book through a clever blend of patchouli, for forthcoming dates near you), smell”. Pen drawings. Pipe tobacco. black tea and tobacco, the scent of we often prompt perfume-lovers to Blood Concept O Withnail-esque Acqua di Parma Colonia Leather Dior Les Créations de Monsieur Absence. The hallucination is just a well-worn leather jacket with its imagine the fragrance as a piece of ‘naughty cigarettes’ smoked on Italian bouquet clasped firmly in a Dior Diorling Freshly-scrubbed that: it bears no relation to the reality familiarity: an all-enveloping cocoon material. It’s remarkable how often orange-juice spilled Chesterfield. gauntlet’s grip. debutante in a leather mask. (I never met my grandfather, nor of touchy-feel-y-ness that, when complete strangers who don’t know visited his study, though his art has sniffed, brings about the sensation exactly what they’re smelling (and haven’t discussed it with the rest of the group) will choose exactly the same material: something they can almost feel beneath their fingers or bury their face into as they sniff. Leather may Bottega Veneta More remarkable still, perhaps, is “ that it’s often the exact same colour Tomas Maier, creative director of fabric – ‘green velvet curtains’ be many of the luxury leather accessories people will say, on describing a brand, described the inspiration for scent, or ‘blue linen’ and of course, things, but it the fragrance created by perfumer ‘dark leather, freshly-buffed’, Michel Almairac: ‘An old house in the ‘expensive beige suede’ or ‘buttery ain’t for wimps beautiful countryside in the Veneto soft white leather.’ It is the perfumer’s region of Italy with rolling green hypnotic skill to make us want - in fashion hills, where we’re from. I envisioned to reach out and touch the very a room with old wood floors, library thing they are hallucinogenically walls and leather-bound books with recreating in a bottle. and fragrance the windows open wide, the breeze Leatheriness in a fragrance can coming in and cut grass, be an evocation of luxury goods. alike hay, moss, garden Or comforting womb-like libraries Memo French Leather Gallic muse Atelier Cologne Gold Leather flowers, growing to get lost in. It can offer the almost sipping gin cocktail wearing nothing Tipsy party drinking Long Island through the room overwhelming sexual stimuli of but a vintage leather coat. Ice Teas in a wood-panelled bar. and everything nuzzleable warm skin, an immediate mixing up. That’s sensation of closeness - of running where we the tips of your fingers over ” started...’ buttery soft napa... or the fetishistic adoration of killer heels. It’s not the easiest note in fragrance to fall in love with if you’re faint of heart, but not all leather scents are stridently animalic or reminiscent of Elvis Presley’s pelvic gyrations. Having read about the history, and heard how modern-day perfumers are using their personal accords, we urge you to come out of the fragrance closet - and bury your nose in some of these...

Tauer Perfumes Lonestar Memories Evody Parfums Cuir Blanc Supple Arquiste Aleksandr Fur-coated Melancholic cowboy simmers coffee, and swoonsome, a cadeau of violet- cad polishes his boots on a frosty while horse chews carrot. tinged dusting powder. afternoon before the duel.

12 The scented Letter perfume is an addiction #ShareMyStash One half of the award-winning Percy & Reed team, Adam Reed has a not-so-secret obsession (as his many Instagram followers know...) Having enviously eyed his ever- growing collection, Suzy Nightingale couldn’t wait to stalk his groaning shelves…

Born in Dalston, East London everything and everyone around me obsessive, too; I’m constantly talking (where he lives now), raised in to smell incredible. I have a strong about them. A client came in the other Somerset, Adam Reed has tousled memory of my nan going on holiday day wearing Angel, and you know and teased the locks of Sophie Dahl, to France, and I asked her to buy me what? It still smells amazing. When I Diane Kruger, Jools Oliver and glossy a Christian Dior fragrance they don’t first came to London I couldn’t afford beauty editors the world over. make anymore - Jules. It’s just divine; only to do hair, so I had a second He began his apprenticeship as I keep hassling the people at Dior to job working with a guy called Mr. a Saturday boy aged 13 - and has make it again - but I did manage to Pearl, and we made corsets - some gone on to work for top designers’ find a bottle last year at a perfumery of which we did for Thierry Mugler. catwalk shows and fashion shoots, in Paris, and just leapt on it. I I remember going to Paris, walking owning two of London’s leading treasure that.’ into the showrooms there, and the salons - Percy & Reed East and West. whole place was scented with Angel Today, he also has a multi-award- - this is before it was launched. We haircare range (including the stunning were some of the first people to combined glossing spray and hair smell it, and I was blown away; it was fragrance featured in our Catwalk People see me as such a revolutionary scent. Smelling Collection Discovery Box!) Adam’s that on a client only yesterday, I was passion for hair’s rivalled only by that “ immediately taken back to that day for perfume - and it started early. an open-all-hours in Paris. Perfume holds so many Explains Adam: ‘I was tiny when memories for me, but I love all types I first got into fragrances; my great- perfume shop - of fragrance - candles, room sprays, grandmother wore Fracas, and beautifully scented body products, my nan wore Youth Dew, which I but I must admit I haircare, of course - anything that can still adore even now. I was always be scented IS, in my home…!’ obsessed by flowers - in fact we love it A favourite discovery is Haeckels; made our own pot pourri; basically, founder Dom Bridges is now a friend. all of the things my nan grew in her Adam leans forward enthusiastically: garden really influenced me at early ‘I genuinely think they are geniuses! age. Everything in that garden was I first got to see their stuff when we fragranced: she had a grapevine, lily were looking for a place to buy in of the valley, bluebells, tomatoes, ‘I am not at all a “perfume snob”,’ Margate. I happened to pass by their roses and all the traditional cottage Adam continues.” ‘I like everything boutique and literally stopped in my garden flowers. And then there was from celebrity scents through to tracks and had to explore inside. Their her perfume… In fact, to me, smelling mainstream: Calvin Klein’s Obsession perfumes are so beautiful - really Youth Dew now is like a scented hug. is one of my all-time favourites, right complex – and they’re now one of my It’s that memory of being so close to up to the more unusual niche and absolute favourite fragrance houses. her, being comforted… I deliberately indie ones. I just wear whatever I like I want them to create me a bespoke chose some of those scent memories sniffing, it really doesn’t matter to me fragrance - seems only right when to put in our first hair fragrance - who it’s by.’ I’m such a fan of everything they do they’re so personal. Those scents truly ‘I also love sharing perfumes with already. I don’t know if it’s because make me ME…’ everyone who comes in the salon I grew up by the coast and have so ‘I sniffed everything - still do! I want - the staff here know I’m a scent- many vividly happy memories to

14 The scented Letter The scented Letter 15 perfume is an addiction

do with the sea, but something about because he’s drawn to the flacon itself Haeckels’s work truly speaks to me on or the history of the house? ADAM’S TOP 10 a deep level. I can smell the seaside in ‘I’ve actually got things I hate all of their products.’ smelling, but I still love them and We’d pre-warned Adam that We were also glad to discover want to keep them all the same. we were going to ask him the that although he’s not yet bespoke-d There might be something that ultimate nightmare question: up, scent-wise, Adam isn’t backward makes me want to keep going back what are your top ten favourite in coming forward when layering and smelling, or perhaps one day I’ll perfumes of all time? Taking up his fragrances. ‘More is always fall in love with it on my skin - who it in his stride, he gestured more for me!’ he laughs. ‘I tend to knows…? Some of them I know I’ll rather nonchalantly, saying wear Diptyque 34 a lot and then never wear, but I just like having ‘Oh that’s not a nightmare at layer everything else on top of that. them around me - I like owning all, it’s easy for me. These are I really like the idea of wearing more them and admiring them for what definitely my “desert island” than one scent at a time, so you can they are. That’s a true obsessive for scents…’ make your own kind of “bespoke” you… I don’t have that many proper perfume out of ones you already love. vintages, though there’s a great guy l Calvin Klein Obsession It completely changes the character on Spitalfields Market who sometimes for Men of them, too, so you add more depth has a stall with old bottles, and I have l Robert Piguet Fracas as the day goes on, or spritz in a bit of occasionally found a few there.’ l Robert Piguet Bandit citrus for a quick pick-me-up.’ It seems Adam is also blessed with l Santa Maria Novella How many are in his current stash? relatives and companions who act Melograno ‘I honestly don’t know. I never count. as fragrance mules for him on their l Haeckels GPS 12’ 0”E. I mean, these shelves and cabinets… travels around the world. ‘People l Estée Lauder Youth Dew well, the drawers underneath them know me so well, so I’m constantly l Diptyque Tam Dao are completely full, too. It just getting calls with them asking “do l Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male > never ends. Once you’re hooked on you fancy this?” or “shall I pick up a perfume, I think that’s pretty much it bottle of that for you?” and I’m like, Here, Adam paused for life. How can you stop when there “uh, YES! Of course I want it, bring it significantly and furrowed his are so many absolutely gorgeous new to me!” - especially if it’s something brow… . ‘Aaaagh! Okay. It is things to smell all the time?’ really unusual I haven’t tried before or hard, isn’t it? Two more…?’ Given the aforementioned have been searching out for ages.’ And they’d be… groaning shelves (opposite) and Adam chuckles as he recounts chock-a-block drawers, how on earth another of the drawbacks of being l Loewe 7 does Adam pick which to wear on known for such a large perfume l Prada Amber Pour Homme any given day? ‘Oh, that’s never collection. ‘I don’t get given a lot Intense a problem for me. Every Sunday I as presents, exactly, but oh my will actually wear BYREDO Sunday God I give a lot away as presents. And because we’re kind and Cologne - totally appropriate, People see me as an open-all-hours don’t limit people to just no? But sometimes I layer it, as perfume shop - but I must admit I those, we asked if there are I explained. Other than that, it’s love it. Especially when you suggest a current ones Adam circles whatever I happen to feel like in the particular scent for someone and they around – like a basking scent- morning, and I then constantly add come back and tell you they adore shark – and finds himself to it throughout the day - spraying it. I do that all the time, for friends coming back to the most? ‘Oh bits of this and that, whatever takes and clients alike. I’m forever sending thank God, because I didn’t my fancy. Having said that, though, them to Liberty, Harrods or some of put Diptyque 34 in there, if I’ve got a particular occasion to go the indie boutiques. It’s such a thrill and I’ve been wearing Terre to - a fancy outfit to wear - then I will to match people with a new favourite. d’Hermès a LOT, as well as have specifically picked a fragrance Well, you must find that, too at The BYREDO Sunday Cologne, to go with that way beforehand. It Perfume Society…?’ and I think I’ve found my next may depend on the colour, the fabric Indeed, we do - but we get just holiday scent, too – Agonist or style, but I always know exactly as much pleasure to watch a fellow Solaris. It’s amazing – so zesty what scent to choose for each outfit. fragrance fiend wax lyrical about and happy-making.’ There’s something about planning their obsession with such animated So now we certainly know that out that makes me feel properly passion. As always, we came away how to make Adam Reed dressed; it’s really positive.’ with lists of things we must sniff soon. happy – which is simply to ask Intrigued by such a diverse But how handy to be able to pop in him to talk about fragrance… collection, we asked if Adam ever to one of the Percy & Reed salons for keeps bottles of perfume he wouldn’t a fab ’do - and a fragrance fix at the www.percyandreed.com necessarily like to wear himself, but very same time…!

16 The scented Letter The scented Letter 17 shake a scent

MILLER HARRIS the La Fumée This Otttoman Mojito is from Benares (see left).

Papagayo spiced rum scented Bergamot orange juice Rose syrup COCKTAIL Fresh coriander cocktail Fresh mint One of the hottest fragrance trends we’ve seen in 2015 is for A pinch of ground cumin Smoked soda water (or plain) perfume-inspired drinks. Carson Parkin-Fairley not only collated a ‘magnificent seven’ recipes – but illustrated them for us, too… Muddle mint, coriander, cumin, add other ingredients. Shake over ice and double strain into hurricane glass. Top with a spritz of soda water. Garnish with mint leaves and coriander. At The Perfume Society we’re lucky enough to have Carson as our SPRITZES AND SPRITZERS (You’ll have to experiment own resident mixologist: an editorial assistant and customer service whiz who with quantities: mixologists moonlights behind various stylish bars, including her mother Sophie Parkin’s The following are all fantastic sometimes regard recipes as Vout-O-Reenees club in Whitechapel. (It’s almost in her genes: Carson’s unofficial places to enjoy scented akin to state secrets, and the godfather is Dick Bradsell, acknowledged as the UK’s leading mixologist. She cocktails... barman behind this was very couldn’t have asked for a better teacher.) coy about how much of what In addition, throughout the year, The Perfume Society team has taken itself l Fragrances at The goes in. But we’re having a lot off (in our spare time, rather than on the job!) to explore the increasing number Ritz-Carlton Hotel, Berlin. of fun playing with it!) of bars where scent-inspired cocktails can be found on the menu. (File under: ritzcarlton.com tough, but someone had to do it.) Excitingly, what we discovered on our perfumed peregrinations is that even l The Green Bar at London’s where the cocktail list doesn’t specifically mention fragrances, most bartenders Café Royal, which in 2015 love rising to the challenge of coming up with something that smells as good as showcased a collection of it tastes – particularly if they’re being asked to recreate an actual perfume which cocktails inspired by Givenchy a customer is wearing, in drinkable form. fragrances. Our Perfume Group members, up and down the country, set out to do just hotelcaferoyal.com that over the summer: we gave them the challenge of coming up with the best scented cocktail – and offered a fabulous flacon of fragrance for the winner. l 68 Colebrooke Row, (Surrey-based Katrina Furniss won, for her ‘Jimmy Choo’ – which we’re delighted Islington, London N1 8AA. to feature here – and bagged a bottle of the same, for her efforts.) 69colebrookerow.com Some of the ingredients listed in the recipes here may not reside in your drinks cabinet – but almost all are readily available with a little help from Google. l Benares is a sensational Less easy to find are some of the ‘syrups’, which concentrate the scented Indian restaurant in Mayfair elements in sugar and really pack a punch in terms of flavour and fragrance. But with a world-class scented once you’ve mastered a syrup recipe (there are loads on-line), they’re surprisingly cocktail menu, at 12a Berkeley simple to make. Square, London W1J 6BS. Mandy Aftel and Daniel Patterson’s excellent book Aroma is a great starting benaresrestaurant.com place for inspiration as to fragrant ingredients which can also be eaten/drunk, and we also recommend Tony Conigliario’s The Cocktail Lab: Unraveling the We’re also collecting scented Mysteries of Flavor and Aroma in Drink, which features some fantastic recipes – cocktail recipes to share with including a cocktail created to evoke Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose. our readers – so do send And here’s the secret bonus: you know how lethal cocktails can be? How us yours, please, to: easy to knock back, in a couple of delicious, seemingly innocuous glugs, leaving [email protected]. you suddenly unsteady on your feet? What we’ve found is that when you focus on identifying the scents and aromas in what you’re drinking, trying mentally to ‘match’ them to a particular perfume, you sip rather than swig – stretching the drinks out much longer. It only remains for us to say: we hope these leave you shaken and stirred...

18 The scented Letter The scented Letter 19 shake a scent

MILLER HARRIS LE JASMIN

This Fleur Spritz has also been served at Benares, the sensational Indian restaurant on Berkeley Square. Find a recipe for creating rosemary and orange blossom LOCCITANE ROSE syrups at marthastewart.com. You ET REINES can find bergamot orange juice at artimondo.co.uk. This cocktail, known as ‘The Divine’, was created 15ml Cognac by Carson Parkin-Fairley 15ml Briottet Rose Liqueur and served at Vout-O- 20ml bergamot orange juice Reenees Club. 10ml rosemary syrup JIMMY CHOO BLOSSOM 15ml orange blossom syrup 50ml vodka 25ml Belvoir Fruit Farms This was the winning cocktail in Shake over ice, double strain and Raspberry & Rose cordial The Perfume Society’s competition serve in tall flute. Top with 25ml lemon juice for our Perfume Group members, champagne. Garnish with an created by VIP Subscriber Katrina edible flower. Shake over ice, strain and Furniss and her husband Paul. serve in a Martini glass with a cherry on stick or a sliver 20ml Triple Sec of lemon peel. 80ml coconut water 50ml Bacardi 40ml lychee juice ½ teaspoon of rose water Grenadine PENHALIGONS VAARA AMOUAGE HONOUR Stir over ice, strain into a Martini Also served at The Ritz- glass with 5ml grenadine in the In Berlin’s Ritz-Carlton Hotel you’ll find a cocktail bar called Fragrances, Carlton’s Fragrances bar. bottom; top with a glacé cherry. entirely dedicated to scented cocktails. This drink was created by their (For a recipe for coriander mixologist Arnd Heißen and although some of the ingredients require a lot schnapps, visit danish- of preparation (first infuse your lily of the valley gin, for instance…), we’ve schnapps-recipes.com. Who included it to get your inner mixologist’s mind whirring. You can find rhubarb knew…?) nectar, meanwhile, at finecheese.co.uk. 10ml pear puree 30ml lily of the valley-infused gin 30ml saffron-infused rum 10ml Anejo Tequila 30ml bourbon 5 dashes of rose water Dash of rosewater PRADA CANDY 20ml sake 2ml coriander schnapps 40ml rhubarb nectar 20ml magnolia-vanilla-honey- 40ml whiskey 2 teaspoons of vetiver-jasmine- tonka bean syrup 10ml Galliano Vanilla Liqueur incense syrup 2 teaspoons caramel syrup Stir over ice, serve in a Shake over ice and strain into a small tumbler with ice. Stir over ice, strain and serve in white wine glass. a tumbler with ice.

The scented Letter 21 20 The scented Letter darkthe master delights of modern femininity

We asked the award-winning author and blogger to share his very personal ‘smoking’ scent choices – from the smouldering to the spiritual…

As I sit down to write these words, I can’t stop myself from 1 COmme des Garçons

chuckling. When The Perfume Society asked me to put Avignon together a piece about my favourite incense perfumes, Each of the perfumes in CdG’s they explained that one of the reasons they thought I was incense series is worth checking the right candidate for the assignment was that I grew up in out, but Avignon towers above the Middle East. the rest. Composed by Bertrand Little did they know how many buttons in my psyche Duchaufour - a perfumer who has they were pushing. In fact, at this very moment, even I can’t made incense his calling card - it quite believe how deeply the subject of incense cuts into is without any doubt the first my soul. Part of the problem is that I’m writing this in a scent I reach for when I want to place that makes it very difficult for me to be objective be reminded of the profound about my past. What is this discombobulating location? serenity inside an empty Well, as it happens, it’s Dubai. But this is most certainly not cathedral. It is note-perfect: the the city of my childhood. dustiness, the faintly lemony For a start, 20 years ago, when I left the UAE, the note, the mineral facet, the all-consuming giant that is The Dubai Mall was probably woods, the smoke... They all little more than a faint spark of an idea in a sheikh’s come together to create what ambitious mind. What’s more, the notion of a branch of begs to be described as a Ladurée in the UAE almost certainly hadn’t been conceived religious experience. in any shape or form. And yet, here I am, sipping a chocolate Viennois, wryly thinking that my view isn’t 2 Tauer Perfumes

altogether different from when I’m at the patisserie’s Incense Extrême Harrods boutique: I’m surrounded by heavily made-up If Avignon is the first fragrance I ladies in black abayas and bearded men in dishdashas so go to when I need an incense white, they’re almost glowing. kick, then Andy Tauer’s Incense But superficial similarities aside, this definitely isn’t Extrême is what I choose when I London. If it were, it wouldn’t confuse me and unsettle me need something that lasts just a in the way that only childhood haunts can. And that’s where little bit longer. Cleaner and the incense comes into the picture. Its unmistakable, smoother than the closer ancient smell seems to hide in every corner of the air. Each CdG, it nevertheless time someone walks past me, there it is, hand in hand with presents an entirely rose or sandalwood. In fact, Dubai Mall’s very own convincing depiction ‘signature’ perfume - pumped throughout the place of the material, as to and noticeable as soon as you enter - is a limpid, tranquil and watery incense composition. It fills my lungs and my composed as a row of mind, and then I’m off... nuns with their heads I vividly remember strolling through the old Al Ghurair bowed in prayer. mall in the early 80s, perplexed and fascinated by the burnt smells coiling around me. I remember my Dad telling me 3 Tom Ford

that incense resin was what he and his friends used as Sahara Noir chewing gum when they were kids. No joke! You put a tiny Forget chastity and heaven lump in your mouth and work at it with your tongue and piety: this is incense as a Persolaise’s your teeth until it grows soft and rubbery. It’s a curious very, very naughty boy favourite sensation - but a darn sight better for you than Wrigleys. indeed! Created by Rodrigo But before I end up writing an autobiography, I think I’d Flores-Roux, it takes its incense better stop and simply say that if perfume and incense star ingredient and are interchangeable terms (which they almost are) and rolls it around in the perfumes if perfume is one of the all-abiding constants in my mud with fierce resins life (which it pretty much is) then incense and I are and growling nothing less than soulmates. animalic notes. A That’s why it is such a thrill for me to be able to be beast that I always able to share my favourite incense-based perfumes – enjoy trying to tame. even if it has been a devilish list to edit. So dim the Sadly, it’s about to be lights, put on some suitably Arabian music - I’d discontinued, recommend Youssou N’Dour’s ‘Egypt’ album - and so grab it while allow the magic carpet to carry you away… you can.

24 The scented Letter The scented Letter 23 dark delights

Dim the lights, put on some suitably creation could just as easily be 4 Amouage Jubilation XXV classified as a leather or a patchouli

Here’s Duchaufour again, this time or a wood scent rather than an Arabian music – and allow the magic adding a slender note of sweetness “ incense. But why split hairs when to his frankincense gum. Tart carpet to carry you away you’re talking about a perfume that’s blackberries, cinnamon and a heap of as incredible as this is? Wear it... and myrrh lend robust support to what I let its unstoppable hurricane take you read as a compelling take on modern 4 ” where it will. Arabia: sleek, polished and luminous, while never losing sight of the past. 10 9 YSL Nu

Venomous, intoxicating and 9 5 Gorilla Perfumes completely seductive, this is incense

Exhale all dressed up and ready to kill. In Many people are aware of Gorilla’s addition to the star material, its Breath of God, a strange, near- weighty arsenal includes spices, incomprehensible mixture of smoky dense woods and a scattering of and marine notes. But did you know burnt petals, all of which serve to that the scent is actually a deliver a statement of deadly intent. combination of two other Gorilla creations: Inhale and Exhale? The 10 L’Artisan Parfumeur

latter may smell too burnt and tarry to Dzongkha qualify as an incense perfume for Yet another entry from Monsieur some, but I’d suggest it’s perfectly in Duchaufour. Inspired by his love of touch with its spiritual side, using Bhutan’s temples (Dzongkha is the vetiver and cade to sing a tune that language of Bhutan), he’s fashioned

may be loud, but is as harmonious as 6 what I was once moved to call a

any hymn. 5 ‘bearded incense’. At the time, I thought the description was rather 6 Serge Lutens Fille En flippant, but I’ve since decided that it

Aiguilles 7 fits pretty well. The central incense Incense goes for a walk. In this facet is distinct and clearly defined, compelling piece of work by but it’s given a deliciously fuzzy Christopher Sheldrake, the outdoorsy outline with the inclusion of textured quality of the material - a facet it 11 woods. As original as it is contemplative. shares with camphor - finds a perfect mate in pine oil. The result is a 11 Chanel No.22

downright fascinating merging of the Chanel tend not to market this as an vast and the intimate, an almost incense perfume, preferring to

surreal portrait of Alpine forests 8 present it as a sort of super-aldehydic growing within the confines of No.5. That’s fair enough, but once cavernous churches. you spot the incense note here, then it becomes impossible to ignore. It 7 Cartier L’Heure weaves its way around the citruses,

Mysterieuse the florals and the sandalwood to In her exclusive Heures range for create the most weightless, Cartier, Mathilde Laurent has sought translucent incense fragrance to re-interpret classic perfumery imaginable. I suspect that materials - and for her 12th hour, she somewhere, in the skies above, this is decided to turn to the art form’s what the angels are wearing. primal origins. The fruit of her efforts 12 is a characteristically elegant creation, Hermès Un Jardin with enough twists and surprises - Sur Le Nil chiefly thanks to the use of salty The publicity material for this scent mineral facets - to maintain a makes much of the fact that perfumer secretive allure. Jean-Claude Ellena based it on an Egyptian variety of mango. The fruit 8 État Libre d’Orange Rien aspect is unquestionably present, but

Where do I start with this one? it’s bolstered by a gorgeously- Ironically named ‘nothing’ - because, rendered incense note, both in fact, it contains pretty much all of refreshing and soothing. Summers perfumery’s most heavy-hitting 12 just wouldn’t be summers for me materials - Antoine Lie’s tempestuous without this beauty.

The Letter 25 24 The scented Letter scented first whiffs

ARMANI PRIVÉ ATELIER COLOGNE BALMAIN latest launches FIL ROUGE MIMOSA INDIGO EXTATIC TIGER ORCHID As we hurtle towards MORE SHOPPING TIPS (FOR HIM)

summer and (fingers l Have you fallen madly for a new fragrance? Why not find out who the crossed) warmer weather, perfumer or ‘nose’ was behind it and see what else they’ve created – much as an author has a unique style, perfumers do, too. the pace of launches is An olfactory echo of Armani’s Spring/ Atelier Cologne unveil a stunning Balmain’s latest is a fresh play on l Also, check if there are what’s known as ‘flankers’ (variations on a theme, Summer 2016 collection, bottled in Collection Orient quartet of darker, that most exotic of flowers: the increasing. Here’s your often rather confusingly called similar names) to the original – you could screenprinted glass to match Armani’s mysterious fragrances – here, tiger orchid. A summery take on the well fall for them, too. current seasonal flashes of colour, this showcasing on-trend mimosa in exotic original Extatic, Tiger Orchid opens short-cut to keeping your takes its name from the ‘fil rouge’: fashion. Opening with mandarin, with bright flowers, ginger and pink l If you really like a particular fragrance but find it disappears too quickly the unifying thread that runs through bergamot and saffron, mimosa claims pepper. The orchid note suffuses finger on the pulse-point on your skin, ask if there’s an eau de parfum version (they tend to last an idea – or the design of a garment. the limelight, with lilac emphasising its the heart, with voluptuous jasmine longer); many more are being launched now. Alternatively, see if there’s What interests us about this collector’s soft powderiness, alongside smooth and ylang ylang accentuating its of all the scents debuting a matching body product you could layer it with – or apply it over an item, though (just 1000 bottles white leather. Spices, musk, vanilla nectarous elements. A balmy blend now – and the new brands unscented body moisturiser. And if you like a particular smell but you’re exist), is the scent itself, which swirls and sandalwood make for a soft, milky of patchouli, benzoin and cashmeran finding it too heavy? Ask for eau de toilette, eau de Cologne or Splash. mistily around the central note of iris, base – and if you aren’t usually daring complete the composition – and we landing on-counter. bringing out its breeziness and adding enough to carry off Orientals, AC’s can assure you, the elixir within is as l For anyone who finds the hubbub of a fragrance hall overwhelming, shimmering touches of white musk. light touch makes this an easy wear. enticing as the flacon that holds it. (PS Where a fragrance is ‘At’ our Discovery Boxes allow for leisurely sniffing at home. For men who are £550 for 100ml eau de parfum £220 for 200ml Cologne Absolue £69 for 90ml eau de parfum ‘allergic’ to shopping (and we know quite a few), our ‘The Scent of a Man’ harrods.com harrods.com harrods.com a location, it’s in-store only Discovery Box (p.26) offers the opportunity for any man to try fragrances for now, rather than on-line.) from the comfort of his favourite armchair. CLEAN RESERVE EX NIHILO GUERLAIN BLONDE ROSE SWEET MORPHINE PERA GRANITA

THE FRAGRANCE FAMILIES

As scentophiles know, fragrances fall into different ‘families’. So we’ve used the same classification system for launches as on our www.perfumesociety.org website. Just look for the coloured strip above the name of the perfume, which is your visual clue to the families. (These are listed below.) Most of us are drawn to a specific family/families: once you know which you fall into, that colour can act as a cue – and help you take a short-cut to the ones you may want to try first…

ORIENTAL

FLORIENTAL

CHYPRE Stripped-down sexiness from a brand Perfumer Nathalie Cetto created Summer wouldn’t be summer without for whom sustainability is a byword, this daringly-named pink juice for a new Aqua Allegoria: Guerlain’s WOODY not a buzzword. From using 100% ‘customisable’ fragrance house Ex hotly-anticipated annual releases solar-powered energy to ethically Nihilo: at first almost girlishly innocent, tend to be cool-as-a-cucumber, FLORAL sourced and sustainable ingredients with clouds of lilac, iris and mimosa and this is (almost) icy as the name wherever possible, the collection of absolute, Sweet Morphine then goes implies. Lemon, bergamot and GOURMAND nine fragrances is made to be layered over to its darker, naughtier, take-me- grapefruit introduce the fragrance, or enjoyed one by one. In this sheer to-a-nightclub-and-dance-with-me- which becomes herby and aromatic, but characterful option, aldehydes till-dawn side. This truly is a contrast then sweetens up with the arrival and lime sparkle gorgeously before of light and dark, in which vetiver, of osmanthus and pear. Base notes rose petal dewdrops dance breezily patchouli and Bourbon vanilla linger – include moss, cedarwood and white FRESH with peony, wisps of jasmine leading and invite you back for more. You may musk – and the whole thing’s as pretty FOUGERE to a gentle musky dry-down. well find resistance futile. as its ballerina pink ‘juice’ suggests. £75 for 100ml eau de parfum £210 for 50ml eau de parfum £47 for 75ml eau de toilette spacenk.com/uk At Harrods Salon de Parfums selfridges.com

26 The scented Letter The scented Letter 27 the men’s room

ACQUA DI PARMA ARMANI BOTTEGA VENETA JEROBOAM LES EAUX PRIMORDIALES PACO RABANE COLONIA SANDALO CODE PROFUMO POUR HOMME ESSENCE ORIGINO MOMENT PERPÉTUEL BLACK XS LA FOR HIM AROMATIQUE

A Cologne for warm-blooded beasts It’s a trend we predict we’ll be seeing The pale blue/green of the juice Jeroboam’s explorations of musk Les Eaux Primordiales is an exciting The flash of white teeth against a who like their juices a little more more and more: intensified versions and streamlined, frosted flacon – composed by Vanina Muracciole new fragrance house created by tan, the zest bursting from a Florida racy, Colonia Sandalo’s flacon is of masculine fragrances, which last perfectly mirror the essence of the – lead us to predict it will become French perfumer Arnaud Poulain. orange, warm air melting to a emblazoned with a distinctive ‘H’ on longer on the skin and have greater scent itself: a hazy freshness unfurls perfumery’s ‘next big thing’. Each is Simplicity in packaging and logo veritable headlong leap into fresh the cap, which may give you a clue diffusion. (And why not? Women have like mist rolling across the treetops offered in a travel-friendly 30ml bottle doesn’t extend to the six scents in fruit cocktails shaken over crushed as to the department store which been wearing stronger concentrations of an Italian forest, the bergamot (the joke: a jeroboam is normally three the collection, which are complex and ice and clary sage. After all that has exclusivity. The slightly boozy for years – and loving it.) In its tactile, and citrus bitter-sweetness gradually litres), with musk the sun around which multi-faceted – all inspired by Jules excitement, the faint tang of salty skin bergamot and creamy sandalwood sculpted bottle – circled by an Armani fading into a deeper woodiness that other ingredients orbit. Here, pink Verne’s 20,000 Leagues Under the still glistening from the swimming slide sublimely into a lavender- ‘cummerbund’ – Code Profumo stays crisply dry, like the snap of a pepper, bergamot, juniper, nutmeg, Sea. Moment Perpétuel evokes a hot pool’s plunge. Vibrantly youthful, and cardamom-sprinkled deeper seduces with the warmth of amber, twig. Siberian pine and patchouli sandalwood nestle alongside bare- summer in Provence, via sun-ripened this positively shimmers, its mineral- woodiness, with toasted almond-like benzoin and tonka bean, melting into radiate flashes of herbaceous skin sexy musk, making us want to blackcurrant, iris, white thyme, fir crisp heart softened by cinnamon. tonka bean and freshly-buffed amber the embrace of wood and smoke. freshness like beacons in the fog: a drape ourselves over a chaise longue balsam, with armfuls of small-batch Wannabe rock-stars and surfers with wading in with abandon. One to nuzzle up to, for sure. trail you never want to end… wearing very little but a wicked smile. French lavender at its core. swagger, spritz this with abandon. £179 for 100ml Cologne concentré From £45 for 35ml eau de parfum £52 for 50ml eau de cologne £80 for 30ml parfum extrait £124 for 100ml eau de parfum £52 for 100ml eau de toilette At Harrods johnlewis.com At Harrods selfridges.com lessenteurs.com theperfumeshop.com

CLEAN RESERVE DIOR DOLCE & GABBANA PAUL SCHÜTZE PENHALIGON’S PRADA SMOKED VETIVER FARENHEIT THE ONE FOR MEN BEHIND THE RAIN ENDYMION CONCENTRÉ LUNA ROSSA EAU SPORT

Smoked Vetiver imagines the An exciting new chapter in the D&G are back with an amplified Having created olfactory dimensions The striking inky bottle and silver Inspired by the ‘spirit and energy’ moment of standing on the edge success story of Dior Farenheit, which version of their classic The One – for art installations, followed by a shield label topped by a silver of extreme sailing, Eau Sport is of a rainforest waterfall. It’s walking spans almost three decades: François this time with enriched tobacco barrage of requests for personal crescent moon hint at the mysteries Daniela Roche Andrier’s redefinition through still pines in a forest, the calm Demachy maintains the brisk pace and amber. (So expect it to fragrance, Paul Schütze unveils a within Endymion Concentré: a of her original Luna Rossa. Opening of the woods enveloping you (via of Dior launches with a reinvention trail a little longer on the skin.) trio of ‘wearable artworks’. Here, a deeper, darker, more intense new to zesty bursts of bergamot and the intriguing use of bamboo leaf of Farenheit as a modern Cologne, Travelling down the herbaceous fragrant melody of moss, lentisque version of the so-popular Endymion, cedrat, it coasts in on a cool and and quince, blonde cedarwood and while retaining its woody-spicy route, it opens with coriander, and linden blossoms is fractured which debuted in 2003. Described refreshing tide, before amber meets wild moss). There’s an almost salty charms. Haitian vetiver and Virginia basil and a hit of grapefruit by the haunting refrain of conifer, as a ‘semi-Oriental’, it retains a hint the lavender in the heart. Sport’s quality in the background, evocative cedar, nutmeg and cumin, patchouli that lightens the tone. A warm frankincense, black pepper, grapefruit of fougère (see p.11) via lavender, embrace becomes cosier as it’s of rough oceans, wild waves. The and violet ensure Farenheit stays blend of orange blossom, ginger and resinous woods: wearing this sage and geranium, wrapped in skin-warmed, with ambergris and fabulous finale of vetiver, myrrh, true to its signature – but the splash and cardamom then appear at feels slightly unsettling at first: a suede. The leather notes intensify as cedar in the base creating a dry and amber and soft musks lures you to of mandarin essence, Calabrian the sensuous heart, delivering prayer uttered in darkness, before the fragrance unfolds, with creamy woody impression that endures from get lost in this beach-fringed forest – bergamot and lemon make it fresh in the olfactory equivalent of an the piercing light breaks through the nutmeg and incense making for a breakfast through to supper on the and delightfully so. every way. impeccably tailored suit. clouds. sweet seduction. deck. £79 for 100ml eau de parfum £49.50 for 75ml Cologne £55 for 50ml eau de parfum £132 for 50ml eau de parfum £128 for 100ml eau de parfum From £47.50 for 50ml eau de toilette spacenk.com/uk dior.com theperfumeshop.com roullierwhite.com penhaligons.com johnlewis.com

28 The scented Letter The scented Letter 29 it takes me right back Lemons When life in the Med gave TV presenter Yasemen Kaner-White lemons, she didn’t make lemonade: it set her on a whole new citrus-powered career path

You could say it was the scent of lemons kolonyasi, a delightful pungent lemon Cologne. that kick-started my self-employed career. Literally, No matter what status, age, or gender, all Cypriots a life-altering aroma. In 2009, when recession love this refreshing liquid. (In fact, when I launched “hit Cyprus, talk of terminating the TV English my book in England, my Cypriot auntie treated department (which I presented for) began. To help every guest to the same hospitality as they walked decide what I should do next, I headed to Lefke – through the door – a wonderful touch.) Comforting not so much a village as a land of lemons. And as citrus was there to hold my hand on my first I walked along chatting with my cousin among his day in my rented office, too; research had taught groves, I found myself pausing on the path like a me that a whiff of lemon is proven to increase meerkat: my head shot up, my nose pointed up in concentration, so an aromatherapy humidifier the air, my eyes closed, enhancing the experience wafting out the essential oil was installed. of the sweet, heavenly honey-like citrus scent filling For me, squeezing a whole lemon’s worth my nostrils. of juice in a little tepid water every morning before I was surrounded by lemon trees, as far as the breakfast to ‘kickstart the liver’ is as powerful eye could see, the nose reach. ‘Do something with as the smell of crushed coffee beans – but cleaner. them, make jam, sell them!,’ I told him. ‘What can For me, lemons are evocative of awakening - I do with so many of them?’ my cousin replied. preparing for a new day, or a new challenge. My So it began: a long, long list of possible ways to first BBC Radio Berkshire interview, discussing my use lemons, which to my own surprise ultimately love of cuisine, culture and citrus, had me sitting culminated in a 280-page eulogy to the lemon: behind the glass panel waiting to be introduced my first book. Since then, with England as my with a scratched lemon in my hand, sniffed like base, I have focused on writing, editing and radio a child’s Linus blanket to calm my nerves. presenting, travelling the world and giving in to my naturally nomadic ways. And it’s all thanks to ‘For me, lemons are evocative the seductive scent of a lemon. Growing up, even before this pivotal moment, of awakening - preparing for a I was always aroused by tasting and smelling new day, or a new challenge’ elements of nature’s harvest, an appreciation nurtured by my mother. I was first in class to taste Lemons aren’t solely a summer memory tangy tart physalis (a.k.a. Cape gooseberry) and scent for me, though. Clove-studded lemons luscious fresh figs. Her English yet somehow souk- left to dry sums up my smell of Christmas. scented kitchen, where saffron and turmeric were All year round, lemons are present in my commonplace, was a haven. Looking back, even life, permeating the air with their crisp, the salad accompanying every meal, with its dash uplifting odour. From washing–up liquid of olive oil and fresh lemon, well… it’s the citrus to shampoo, to conditioner to shower acidity which cuts through all my recollections. gel, citrus is my chosen aroma – and Later, my first love and I spent many carefree nothing else lifts my spirits in the same hours in his parents’ Cypriot garden, gathering way.But it’s still pretty amazing to me that produce for his mother, reminding me of time as the subject of The Lemon Compendium – spent strawberry picking as a child. The lemon my tome entirely dedicated to this gorgeous trees provided shade and an edible scent – a juicy golden fruit – they’re even shaping my career. contrast to freshly snapped broad beans, just- So next time you hold a lemon, a little picked avocados and artichokes. As we sat under elliptical golden sun in the palm of your hand, them, a shawl of sunlight peeping through the scratch beneath its surface and inhale deeply. branches was just enough to keep us warm. I promise, as the essence bursts through, Visiting Cyprus always means family gatherings. wafting into your nostrils, wherever you are, We invite you to visit The Perfume Society’s website daily for breaking perfume news, features, Traditionally, as you enter your host’s house, you whatever you’re doing, your zest for life will limon and exclusive VIP Subscriber material, as well as updates on all our events. And to keep your

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