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The Van Stadens Wildflower Reserve, Formerly Van Stadens Oceans (Formerly SAFCOL)

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The Van Stadens Wildflower Reserve, Formerly Van Stadens Oceans (Formerly SAFCOL) Eastern Cape flora The Van Stadens Wi Idflower Reserve The Van Stadens Wi Idflower Reserve, about 40 km west of Port Elizabeth, conserves a number of endemic, rare and threatened plants in the Albany Centre of Endemism and serves as an important environmental education centre to local communities in the Nelson Mandela Metropole and outlying reg ions. 6'-9 o 0 T by Wesley Berrington, Nelson Mandela Metropole Municipality, Port Elizabeth and Tony Dold, selmar Schonland Herbarium, Rhodes University, Grahamstown In the 1700s the rather sinister name Galgenbosch (Dutch for 'Gallow's Wood) referred to the greater Thornhill area of the Eastern Cape, including the Galgenbosch Hoogte that is now the Van Stadens Berg. Army ensign August Beutler camped at Galgenbosch in 1752, so named because some travellers had cut their names on a tree and someone else had added a gallows above them. Although it remains unclear who Van Staden was, the grassy flats and steep mountains of that name were much admired by early travellers from as ST FRANCIS BAY early as 1773 when the Swedish botanist Carl Peter Thunberg wrote, 'In the environs of Van Stade's river, were the finest woods I had seen in the whole country.' Many other famous 25' early explorers like Sparrman in 1775, Lichtenstein in 1804, La Trobe in 1816, Moodie in 1820, Backhouse in 1838 and TOP: The summit of the Van Stadens Berg looking southwards towards Krauss in 1839 mention Van Stadens River and the Van Jeffrey's Bay. The rush lily, Bobartia macrocarpa in the foreground. Stadens Berg in their writings. In 1838 Sir Charles Bunbury, Photo: Tony Oold. who collected plants at the Cape of Good Hope in 1838 and MAP: The greater Van Stadens area west of Port Elizabeth. 1839, note(i 'The deep and narrow valley.. .is quite a gem... and really puts one in mind of some of the smaller valleys of Switzerland. It is beautifully verdant, partly cultivated, noted by Helen Vanderplank (a botanical artist from Port partly pasture... hemmed in by mountains, not indeed of great Elizabeth who passed away last year), 'a natural gem'. Many height...but excessively steep and richly clothed with thick of Helen Vanderplank's paintings in Wildflowers of the Port evergreen woods.' Elizabeth area (1999) are from plants collected in the reserve. In 1882 botanical artist Marianne North spent time at The reserve belongs to the Nelson Mandela Metropolitan Cadle's Hotel (now the site of Woodridge Preparatory School) Municipality (NMMM) and consists of a low-lying area of overlooking the Van Stadens gorge and together with Russell about 600 ha between the mountain and the coast. The Van Hallack (of Satynum hallackii and Disa hallacki!) admired the Stadens Berg comprises three entities under different conser­ nearby Van Stadens Berg on horseback, an experience she vation custodianship. The Van Stadens Berg is a proclaimed describes enthusiastically in her book, written in 1893. Natural Heritage Site (1 500 hal that belongs to Mountains to The Van Stadens Wildflower Reserve, formerly Van Stadens Oceans (formerly SAFCOL). Ladies Slipper Nature Reserve (365 River Outspan, was proclaimed in 1951 and remains, as hal, so named because a prominent rock outcrop resembles a 206 December 2006 Veld&Flora lady's shoe, belongs to NMMM. Witteklip Vulnerable and is endemic to the Van Private Nature Reserve (28 hal belongs Stadens Berg. Until recently it was to the Mountain Club of South Africa. only known from only two herbarium According to Prof. Selmar Schonland, specimens, both collected in the late director of the Albany Museum and nineteenth century. Now, one hundred lecturer in botany at Rhodes University years later, after a recent mountain fire, in the late nineteenth century, who we have found that this beautiful daisy undertook a botanical survey of the is in fact much more common than Uitenhage - Port Elizabeth area (now previously thought to be, but still very the NMMM) in 1919, the Van Stadens localized on the mountain. Berg has the highest rainfall records in Crinum lineare (listed as Vulnerable) the Port Elizabeth - Uitenhage region is occasionally seen in small clumps and therefore has a unique flora for the in coastal grassland between Port region. Elizabeth and the coast near Hamburg. Our photo is from the Van Stadens Rare and threatened plants in the Wildflower Reserve, which is possibly Van Stadens area the type locality for the species. The Van Stadens area boasts a high Bergtee Cyclopia longifolia (list­ number of endemic plants. Some of ed as Vulnerable) was, until recent­ these are rare and threatened and are ly, only known from four herbarium listed in the Red Data List of plants. specimens, all collected on the Van The greatest threats to the natural Stadens Berg (Longmore forest station environment in the NMMM are urban and Helsekloof). We have recently found sprawl, industrial development, com­ a fifth population comprising a few iso­ mercial afforestation and alien plant lated plants below the 'Lady's Slipper' invasion. Road reserves in the Van on Van Stadens Berg. Stadens area appear to play an impor­ Cyclopia pubescens (Vulnerable) is tant conservation role as a refuge for at endemic to the NMMM where we know TOP: Aster laevigatus at the summit of the Van least three threatened species (see Veld it from five severely fragmented and Stadens Berg - re-discovered after 100 years. & Flora 90(4), p. 137 for discussion on threatened populations in western sub­ road reserves). While threatened spe­ urbs of Port Elizabeth. Some of these ABOVE: Crinum Iineare in the Van Stadens cies such as Aspalathus lanceicarpa, remnant populations may no longer Wildflower Reserve, a low-lying area of about 600 ha between the mountains and the coast. Cyclopia filiformis, Lotononis monophyl­ be viable. A population within the road la, Othonna membranijolia and Senecio reserve of the N2 near Van Stadens BELOW LEFT: Cyclopia pubescens, one of five serrurioides remain elusive, we have Wildflower Reserve featured on the fragmented populations, growing here within the found and photographed many of the environmental television programme road reserve of the N2 between Van Stadens and Port Elizabeth. This population will be protected red-listed plants for the Custodian's '5050' about ten years ago and more as an educational eco-attraction when a pro­ of Rare and Endangered Wildflowers recently in the local press. A proposed posed service station is built on the site in the (CREW) programme (see page 186) who service station and interchange would near future. will use the information to re-assess the have destroyed this population along BELOW RIGHT: Euryaps ursinaides overlooking conservation status of these species. with a population of the endangered the Van Stadens gorge. Aster laevigatus is listed as Brunsvigia litoralis had it not been Photos: Tony Oold. December 2006 Veld&Flora 207 for public intervention resulting in a extension of about 80 km. novel development/management plan Paranomus reflexus, the Van to ensure that no damage is done to the Staden's sceptre (listed as Vulnerable), population during construction. has been collected at Doornkraal Cyrtanthus staadensis (Vulnerable) near Humansdorp, Otterford, Loerle, was only known from the Van Stadens Blouberg, Longmore and Van Stadens Reserve when it was reported on in Berg. It is the easternmost distribution Veld & Flora volume 89(2), p 66 in June of 18 species and is threatened by com­ 2003. We have subsequently found two mercial afforestation. The Protea Atlas new populations in the Van Stadens Project recently posted an unconfirmed Berg. report on their website of a population Euryops ursinoides (Vulnerable) is in the Baviaansberge, 35 km north-east known only from the Van Stadens Berg of Otterford. and the nearby Otterford Reserve. We have found it overlooking the infamous Conservation and Environmental Van Stadens Bridge. Education Leucadendron orientale, the Van The Van Stadens Wildflower Reserve Staden's conebush (Vulnerable), was is situated about 40 km west of Port until recently only known from Loerie, Elizabeth, on the old Cape Road (RI02). Otterford, Longmore Forest Station and Take the N2 out of the city towards Van Stadens Berg, where it was first Cape Town. After 40 km turn left off the collected by William Burchell in 1814. N2 to Van Stadens Pass. The entrance The Protea Atlas Project reports a popu­ to the reserve is on the right hand side, lation from the Baviaanskloof - a range less than a kilometre from the N2. The gates open at 07h30 and close at 18hOO in summer and 17hOO in winter (1 May­ 31 August). There is no entry fee. There is a well maintained custom­ designed 'flower house' with correctly named flowering plant specimens at the reception office to test your knowl­ edge. Two walking trails are available. The River Walk is a 4 km trail that follows the contour of the north-fac­ ing slope of a small tributary to the Van Stadens River. The steep slopes are home to Encephalartos longifolius and Cyrtanthus staadensis. The Forest Walk is a 6 km walk through the Van Stadens River gorge where local endem­ ics Atalaya capensis and Sterculia alex­ andri can also be seen. A visit to the tra­ ditional Xhosa umzi (homestead) with household utensils, kraal and farming implements is worth a visit. For fur­ ther information contact the Reserve Manager on 041 9560155. Otherimportant nature reserves in the NMMM are Aloes Reserve, Cape Recife Nature Reserve, Groendal Wilderness area (Uitenhage), Island Nature Reserve, Maitland Nature Reserve, Sardinia Bay TOP: Paranomus retlexus on the hot, dry, north-facing slopes of the Van Stadens Berg. Nature Reserve, St Croix Island Reserve ABOVE: Sterculia alexandri in the Van Stadens River gorge. Photos: Tony Do/d.
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