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Rarotonga, Samoa & Tonga

Rarotonga, Samoa & Tonga

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Rarotonga, &

Samoa (p98)

American Samoa & the (USA) Cook (p144) (p44)

Tonga (p164)

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Brett Atkinson, Charles Rawlings-Way, Tamara Sheward PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Rarotonga, RAROTONGA & THE ...... 90 Samoa & Tonga...... 4 . . . . 44 ...... 91 Rarotonga, Samoa Rarotonga ...... 45 Understand Rarotonga & Tonga Map...... 6 & The Cook Islands . . . . 91 & Around ...... 46 Rarotonga & the Rarotonga, Samoa Around the ...... 58 & Tonga’s Top 15...... 8 Cook Islands Today. . . . . 91 ...... 70 History...... 91 Need to Know...... 16 Palmerston ...... 77 The Culture...... 92 If You Like…...... 18 ‘ ...... 77 Arts...... 92 Month by Month. . . . . 20 Ma’uke...... 82 Environment...... 93 ...... 84 Itineraries ...... 23 Survival Guide ...... 94 ...... 86 Which Island?...... 28 Northern Group . . . . . 89 SAMOA...... 98 Outdoor Adventures. . . 33 ...... 90 ...... 99 ...... 90 Travel with Children. . . . 39 ...... 99 ...... 90 at a Glance. . . .. 41 DAVID KIRKLAND / GETTY IMAGES © CHRIS CHEADLE / GETTY IMAGES ©

VAKA (CANOES) OFF VAVA’U (P185), TONGA LEMAIRE STéPHANE / HEMIS.FR / GETTY IMAGES ©

SEA TURTLE, SAVAI’I (P123), LOCAL DANCER, SAMOA RAROTONGA (P45) Contents

UNDERSTAND

Eastern Upolu...... 115 The Culture...... 161 Rarotonga, Samoa South Coast ...... 119 Arts...... 161 & Tonga Today...... 208 Northwestern Upolu . . . . 121 Environment...... 161 History...... 211 Manono ...... 123 Survival Guide ...... 161 Culture, Religion ...... 123 & Tradition...... 220 Savai’i...... 123 TONGA...... 164 Myths & Legends. . . . 224 ...... 166 & the East Coast . . . . . 125 The Arts...... 226 Nuku’alofa...... 166 Central North Coast . . . . 128 Food & Drink...... 230 Around the Island . . . . . 175 Northwestern Savai’i. . . . 131 ’Eua...... 178 South Coast ...... 132 Ha’apai Group...... 180 Understand Samoa . . . . 133 SURVIVAL Group...... 181 Samoa Today...... 133 GUIDE Vava’u Group...... 185 History...... 133 Neiafu...... 186 The Culture...... 135 Around Vava’u...... 193 Transport...... 234 Sport ...... 136 Southern Health...... 238 Arts...... 136 Vava’u Islands...... 194 Environment...... 137 Eastern Vava’u Islands. . . . 195 Language...... 240 Survival Guide ...... 138 Niua Group ...... 195 Index...... 248 ...... 196 Map Legend...... 255 AMERICAN Niuafo’ou...... 196 SAMOA...... 144 Understand Tonga . . . . 197 ...... 145 Tonga Today ...... 197 Manu’a Islands. . . . . 156 History...... 197 Ofu & Olosega...... 157 The Culture...... 199 Ta’u...... 159 Arts...... 200 Understand Environment...... 201 . . . . 159 Food & Drink...... 202 American Samoa Today. . .. 159 Survival Guide ...... 202 History...... 159

SPECIAL FEATURES

30 31 Which Island?...... 28 Myths & Legends. . . . 224 The Cook Islands Tonga MATTEO COLOMBO / GETTY IMAGES © There is a good mix of international stand- Head out to the Ha’apai or Vava’u groups ards and boutique charm on Rarotonga for a scant number of eclectic, though not and Aitutaki. Families are well catered for necessarily fancy, resorts in remote set- and there are plenty of activities and fun tings. Many have an eco bent; none have

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN nightlife. If you’re looking for an upmarket swimming pools. TRIP YOUR PLAN holiday in the , head here.

Samoa There’s nothing too luxurious here, but The Local Outdoor Adventures. . . 33 The Arts...... 226 the beaches are dazzling, the atmosphere authentic and stress nonexistent (with or Accommodation

Which without the swanky spa). Experience Which If you want to travel independently and American Samoa experience the culture up-close, go local i i

sland? There’s not a lot going on here in terms of and you won’t be sorry. Each country has sland? luxury resort accommodation. It might be its own version of mid-level and local ac- a small part of America and it just about commodation: small boutique hotels and matches the scenery, but Hawai’i it ain’t! guest houses are becoming increasingly popular throughout these islands. Forgo- Travel with Children. . . . 39 Food & Drink...... 230 ing the ‘resorts’ allows you to get more bang for your buck, meet the locals and BEST FOR A LOCAL explore some remote islands. EXPERIENCE Note that many smaller family-run places don’t take credit cards and don’t have air-con, but most can provide air- The Cook Islands Tapuaeta’i (p72), Aitutaki, the Cook Islands Kura’s Kabanas (p64; Rarotonga) port transfers if arranged in advance. On remote islands you encounter faulty Aremango Guesthouse (p64; plumbing, cold showers, unreliable elec- Tonga Samoa Rarotonga) tricity and ‘rustic’ vibes. If you need wi-fi, For an immersive cultural experience with Samoa’s signature budget-style accommo- Gina’s Garden Lodges (p74; check in advance. a midrange price tag, stay at a Tongan-run dation is the beach fale, a simple structure Culture, Religion Aitutaki) guesthouse or B&B. Decor might be a tad that comes in a variety of styles. At their Atiu Villas (p80; ‘Atiu) The Cook Islands shabby, but the experience will certainly most simple and traditional, fale are just a On Rarotonga and Aitutaki, stay at mid- be authentic. wooden platform with poles supporting a Samoa range motels or in good-value, self-contained thatched roof, surrounded by woven blinds Namu’a Island Beach Fale (p118; holiday rentals. Expect to pay for views that can be pulled down for privacy. These & Tradition...... 220 Upolu) and location. On the Cooks’ smaller outer are found on some of the best beaches. Regina’s Beach Fales (p130; Savai’i) islands, go local at family-run homestays. Going Budget American Samoa Lusia’s Lagoon Chalets (p126; If you are on a limited budget and where Savai’i) Samoa you lay your head really doesn’t worry you, There’s a dearth of budget accommodation on Tutuila, reflecting the fact that most Satuiatua Beach Fales (p133; Midrange hotel, motel and resort accom- there are some intriguing options in these visitors are there for business rather than Savai’i) modation here ranges from the slightly tropical paradises, ranging from beach- dilapidated to well-maintained rooms with front to hostel dorms. . American Samoa all the mod cons. Some beach fale () Le Falepule (p152; ) also enter into midrange . The Cook Islands Tonga If spending your pa’anga on accommo- Tonga On the budget side of the tracks in Raro- American Samoa tonga and Aitutaki, stay at laid-back back- dation isn’t why you’re here, Tonga has Port Guest House (p190; A sign of American Samoa’s reliance on something for everybody. There are plenty Vava’u) packers or guesthouses – complete with US government support rather than tour- activities aplenty. of options, from rambling guest houses to Treasure Island Eco-Resort (p195; ism is the limited accommodation choice semi-permanent , beach-bum shacks Vava’u) on Tutuila. That said, there is a handful of and basic backpacker joints. Nerima Lodge (p171; Tongatapu) interesting and quirky midrange places to stay here.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 23

Itineraries

#• AITUTAKI

É

# –

#– #• ‘ATIU

É

É

# –

S O U T H #_ AVARUA PA C I F I C #•

RAROTONGA O C E A N

É

# –

É

#• MANGAIA

2 WEEKS Southern Cook Islands

The Cooks’ Southern Group is a hop, skip and jump from Rarotonga. Even if you haven’t got much time, you should still be able to tackle the whole route in two weeks – you won’t regret it! Start your trip with four days on Rarotonga: time enough for a stroll around the island’s capital, Avarua; a hike up the Cross-Island Track; a day’s snorkelling in Muri Lagoon; and a visit to the BCA Art Gallery. Don’t forget to check out an island night while you’re here. Hop on a plane for the 45-minute flight to Aitutaki, then hire a scooter and explore the island. A lagoon cruise is essential, but you could also consider hiring a kayak to explore some of the deserted motu (islets) around the lagoon’s fringe. Then it’s another short hop to ‘Atiu, where you can visit Anatakitaki, the cave of the kopeka (‘Atiuan swiftlet); sample the island’s -grown coffee; and take an ecotour. Wing back to Rarotonga and hop on another quick flight to Mangaia – the Pacific’s oldest island – and see its extraordinary caves and vast cliffs, perhaps the most dramatic sight anywhere in the Cooks. 24

APIA

SAMOA #

#_ – PAGO #_PAGO

AMERICAN É

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN SAMOA

S O U T H

# – PA C I F I C VAVA'U GROUP O C E A N COOK ISLANDS TONGA •#

É AITUTAKI •# HA'APAI É GROUP •# 'ATIU •#

#– •# MA' UKE

É It

# RAROTONGA – i nerar #_ •#

NUKU'ALOFA É

#– •# # – MANGAIA É

i es É

É É D

Auckland (1700km)

4 WEEKS Polynesian Explorer

With a month of island time up your sleeve, this part of will deliver a bounty of delights. There are no direct flights between Tonga and the Cook Islands, but a short detour through in is far from an inconvenience. Kick things off in Apia, Samoa’s capital: check out the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum, explore Upolu and spend at least one night on the beach in a traditional fale (house). Take the ferry to Savai’i for cave tunnels, lava fields and white beaches, then visit the forest-engulfed Pulemelei Mound, Polynesia’s largest ancient monument. From Apia, fly to the American Samoan capital, Pago Pago. Backed by steep moun- tains jagging down to green-blue Pago Pago Harbor, it’s one of the most improbably scenic cities in the South Pacific. Go for a -kayak paddle, or hole up for a few days and work on your epic South novel. Fly back through Apia to scruffy-but-charming Nuku’alofa in the ancient Kingdom of Tonga: eyeball the Royal Palace en route to buzzy Talamahu Market. A short flight north, the Ha’apai Group offers beachy living in thatched fale, sea kayaking and kite- , while the Vava’u Group delivers more sea kayaking, plus diving and sailing. A night or two bending elbows with the yachties in the bars along Neiafu’s harbourfront is a night or two well spent. Wing back into Nuku’alofa, then jag through the duty-free shops at Auckland Airport en route to the Cook Islands’ capital, Avarua, on Rarotonga. Hike the Cross-Island Track, snorkel at sublime Muri Beach, and don’t miss losing a few hours wandering around Punanga Nui Market (the fruit smoothies and roast-pork rolls are a knockout!). From Rarotonga, catch a plane to exquisite Aitutaki, where you can chill out lagoon- side for a few days. Boat-trip out to Tapuaeta’i (One Foot Island) and get your passport stamped. From Aitutaki, further short-hop flights will deliver you to the Southern Group islands of ‘Atiu, Mangaia and Ma’uke. Give them a few days each to explore the eye- popping caves and cliffs, then jet back to Rarotonga for your flight home. 25

S O U T H PA C I F I C O C E A N PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Manase •# •# Lava Field É SAVAI’I SAMOA Ofu

É (100km)

É É É APIA Palolo Deep D •# f# #_ •# #–

Alofaaga É Marine Reserve

Manono•# •# É # Blowholes •# Piula Cave – ’UPOLU É AMERICAN It

Pool É SAMOA i nerar Robert Louis Ù# Lalomanu Stevenson Beach Mt Alava

Museum f# É

R i es •# PAGO PAGO #_ É Ù# Aunu’u TUTUILA Ù# Alega Fagatele Bay Beach National Marine Sanctuary

3 WEEKS Samoan Island Hopper

From the Samoan capital city Apia, start your island-hopping experience with a visit to Palolo Deep Marine Reserve and the endearing Robert Louis Stevenson Museum. Next, head east to seductive Lalomanu Beach, with a pit stop at Piula Cave Pool. Meander along the south coast, peeking into To Sua Ocean Trench, then take a boat out to the island of Manono. Return to Upolu to ferry to Savai’i. Check out the wave-surging Alofaaga Blowholes, the desolate lava field and the sands at gregarious Manase. Catch the ferry back to Upolu and return to Apia. From here, fly to Pago Pago, Ameri- can Samoa’s picturesque capital. Travel east to scale Mt Alava for spectacular views, then maroon yourself on Alega Beach, detouring for a close-up of Rainmaker Moun- tain. Wind along the coast to Au’asi and take a boat to the small, wild island of Aunu’u, before the slow ride back to Pago Pago. Alternatively, head southwest from Pago Pago to explore the pristine Fagatele Bay National Marine Sanctuary. If there’s still time, fly from Pago Pago to the island of Ofu to experience the amazing isolation of Ofu Beach – 4km of footprint-free white sand. 26 Niuas Group Mt TalauR#•VAVA’U Mariner’s Cave#•#• D (240km) VAVA’U GROUP Swallows’ Cave PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

É HA’APAI #f

KAO #• GROUP #f

– #• #• #

TOFUA S O U T H É #• FOA UOLEVA PA C I F I C

É O C E A N It

i nerar É

#f É i es NUKU’ALOFA

Ha'atafu BeachÙ#

Mapu’a ’a Vaea Blowholes #• #_ #•

É TONGATAPU É Ha’amonga ‘a #•’EUA Maui Trilithon

Slow Boats Around 2 Tongan Highlights 4 WEEKS WEEKS Tonga

Hit the highlights of Tonga on a two-week Sure, you can fly around the Tongan island island jaunt. groups…but everybody does that! Boats are much more interesting. Head straight to the paradisiacal Vava’u Group, Tonga’s activities hub, either by Spend a little time pottering around Ton- plane or ferry. On Vava’u, clamber up the gatapu and acclimatising to the tropics in peak of Mt Talau for some awesome island Nuku’alofa, then ferry out to nearby ’Eua views, then join a chartered or bare-boat and spend a few days hiking through the yacht and set sail around the islands of the island’s lush rainforests and exploring caves group. Change your anchorage each night and sinkholes. You’ll sometimes have to and jump into the brine each day to snorkel climb huge, tangled banyan trees to get out. and swim. A multiday guided sea-kayak Once back in Nuku’alofa, clamber tour is another superb option. Don’t miss aboard the ferry and chug north to the swimming into Swallows’ Cave, or experi- coral charms and serenity of the low-lying ence the underwater wonder of Mariner’s Ha’apai Group. up in a beachside before moving on to idyllic islands Cave fale on Uoleva for a few days, or at the further south. Arrange your charter to sail other end of the cash spectrum there are a through the Ha’apai Group (grab a beer at couple of wonderful resorts on Foa. If you Mariner’s Cafe in Pangai if you do) en route have the inclination, charter a boat to take to Tongatapu. Alternatively, catch a short you out to Tofua and Kao. flight back to the main island. If time is not your scarcest commodity, On Tongatapu, have a quick look around ferry on to the magical distractions of the , visit the Nuku’alofa Ha’amonga ‘a Vava’u Group, where there’s almost too Maui Trilithon (‘the Stonehenge of the much to do: sailing, diving, swimming, South Pacific’) and check out the Mapu’a eating, drinking… The remote Niuas ‘a Vaea Blowholes. Then get yourself into beckon a few hundred kilometres to the holiday mode by spending a day or two north – three volcanic islands where you’ll snorkelling, swimming and lazing around find lava fields, pristine ridges and laid- Ha’atafu Beach (a great family option). back locals (and unscheduled ferries). 27

É f# •# PENRHYN

RAKAHANGA •# MANIHIKI •# PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

É

S O U T H PA C I F I C f# O C E A N It

i nerar É i es

RAROTONGA •#

4 WEEKS Northern Cook Islands

The Cooks’ Northern Group is a long, long way from busy Rarotonga – it’s a fantastic place to experience traditional Cook Islands culture. Only the hardiest and most intrepid of travellers ever make it out this far, but if you can surmount the logistical challenges, the rewards are sublime. From Rarotonga you could catch a plane all the way to the Northern Group islands, but it’s astronomically expensive. The most adventurous way to get there is via inter-­ island freighter all the way to Manihiki, the black- capital of the Cook Islands, with its tiny coral and massive natural lagoon. With a bit of luck there will be a boat moving on to isolated Rakahanga, or if it’s not stopping there, straight on to Penrhyn, where life is still lived very much along tradi- tional lines. Back in Manihiki, boat it back to Rarotonga. This is not the trip to take if you’ve got any time constraints! You’ll have plenty of time to get to know the islanders and practise your fishing skills – but don’t plan on going home too soon, as the next boat might not be along for a while… ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 255

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh / Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/ International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across and overland to . It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Brett Atkinson From his home in Auckland, Brett has travelled to many of the islands in his South Pacific backyard. For this extended research trip to the Cook Islands, he snorkelled and scootered around Aitutaki, drank bush beer and organic coffee on ‘Atiu, and explored Rarotonga on two and four wheels with his wife, Carol. Brett has covered more than 50 countries as a guidebook author and travel and food writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for his most recent work and upcoming travels.

Charles Rawlings-Way As a likely lad, Charles suffered in school shorts through Tasmanian winters: ice on the Hobart puddles, snow on Mt … He dreamed of one day exploring tropical isles with a more humane climate. After dropping a windsurfer mast on a Texan tourist’s head in in 1985 and chasing rats around an Aitut- atki guesthouse in 2005, a trip to see what Tonga had to offer was well overdue. Charles has penned 30-something Lonely Planet guidebooks, and remains pathologically fixated on the virtues and vices of travel.

Tamara Sheward Despite a hearty dislike of heat and – not to mention that pesky mango allergy – Tamara not only lives in the tropics, but enjoys travelling them exten- sively. While researching the South Pacific, she rode in 50-plus boats, 14 aero- planes, umpteen rattly open-air buses and one submarine; alas, no similar tally was kept on and consumption. In addition to the islands in this book, Tamara has covered an incongruous miscellany of countries for Lonely Planet, including Serbia, northern Australia, Bulgaria and Russia.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 8th edition – 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 217 2 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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