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Rarotonga, Samoa & Tonga

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Rarotonga, Samoa & Tonga ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Rarotonga, Samoa & Tonga Samoa (p98) American Samoa Rarotonga & the (USA) Cook Islands (p144) (p44) Tonga (p164) THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Brett Atkinson, Charles Rawlings-Way, Tamara Sheward PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Rarotonga, RAROTONGA & THE Pukapuka . .. 90 Samoa & Tonga . 4 COOK ISLANDS . 44 Suwarrow . 91 Rarotonga, Samoa Rarotonga . 45 Understand Rarotonga & Tonga Map . 6 & The Cook Islands . 91 Avarua & Around . 46 Rarotonga & the Rarotonga, Samoa Around the Island . 58 & Tonga’s Top 15 . 8 Cook Islands Today . 91 Aitutaki . 70 History . 91 Need to Know . 16 Palmerston . 77 The Culture . 92 If You Like… . 18 ‘Atiu . 77 Arts . 92 Month by Month . 20 Ma’uke . 82 Environment . 93 Mitiaro . 84 Itineraries . 23 Survival Guide . 94 Mangaia . 86 Which Island? . 28 Northern Group . 89 SAMOA . 98 Outdoor Adventures . 33 Manihiki . 90 Upolu . 99 Rakahanga . 90 Travel with Children . 39 Apia . 99 Penrhyn . 90 Regions at a Glance . .. 41 DAVID KIRKLAND / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / KIRKLAND DAVID © IMAGES GETTY / CHEADLE CHRIS VAKA (CANOES) OFF VAVA’U (P185), TONGA LEMAIRE STéPHANE / HEMIS.FR / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / HEMIS.FR / STéPHANE LEMAIRE SEA TURTLE, SAVAI’I (P123), LOCAL DANCER, SAMOA RAROTONGA (P45) Contents UNDERSTAND Eastern Upolu . 115 The Culture . 161 Rarotonga, Samoa South Coast . 119 Arts . 161 & Tonga Today . 208 Northwestern Upolu . 121 Environment . 161 History . 211 Manono . 123 Survival Guide . .161 Culture, Religion Apolima . 123 & Tradition . 220 Savai’i . 123 TONGA . 164 Myths & Legends . 224 Salelologa Tongatapu . 166 & the East Coast . 125 The Arts . 226 Nuku’alofa . 166 Central North Coast . 128 Food & Drink . 230 Around the Island . 175 Northwestern Savai’i . 131 ’Eua . 178 South Coast . 132 Ha’apai Group . 180 Understand Samoa . 133 SURVIVAL Lifuka Group . 181 Samoa Today . 133 GUIDE Vava’u Group . 185 History . 133 Neiafu . 186 The Culture . 135 Around Vava’u . 193 Transport . 234 Sport . 136 Southern Health . 238 Arts . 136 Vava’u Islands . 194 Environment . 137 Eastern Vava’u Islands . 195 Language . 240 Survival Guide . 138 Niua Group . 195 Index . 248 Niuatoputapu . 196 Map Legend . 255 AMERICAN Niuafo’ou . 196 SAMOA . 144 Understand Tonga . 197 Tutuila . 145 Tonga Today . 197 Manu’a Islands . 156 History . 197 Ofu & Olosega . 157 The Culture . 199 Ta’u . 159 Arts . 200 Understand Environment . 201 American Samoa . 159 Food & Drink . 202 American Samoa Today . .. 159 Survival Guide . 202 History . 159 SPECIAL FEATURES 30 31 Which Island? . 28 Myths & Legends . 224 The Cook Islands Tonga © IMAGES GETTY / COLOMBO MATTEO There is a good mix of international stand- Head out to the Ha’apai or Vava’u groups ards and boutique charm on Rarotonga for a scant number of eclectic, though not and Aitutaki. Families are well catered for necessarily fancy, resorts in remote set- and there are plenty of activities and fun tings. Many have an eco bent; none have PLAN YOUR TRIP nightlife. If you’re looking for an upmarket swimming pools. PLAN YOUR TRIP holiday in the region, head here. Samoa There’s nothing too luxurious here, but The Local Outdoor Adventures . 33 The Arts . 226 the beaches are dazzling, the atmosphere authentic and stress nonexistent (with or Accommodation WHICH WHICH without the swanky spa). Experience WHICH If you want to travel independently and American Samoa experience the culture up-close, go local I I SLAND? There’s not a lot going on here in terms of and you won’t be sorry. Each country has SLAND? luxury resort accommodation. It might be its own version of mid-level and local ac- a small part of America and it just about commodation: small boutique hotels and matches the scenery, but Hawai’i it ain’t! guest houses are becoming increasingly popular throughout these islands. Forgo- Travel with Children . 39 Food & Drink . 230 ing the ‘resorts’ allows you to get more bang for your buck, meet the locals and BEST FOR A LOCAL explore some remote islands. EXPERIENCE Note that many smaller family-run places don’t take credit cards and don’t have air-con, but most can provide air- The Cook Islands Tapuaeta’i (p72), Aitutaki, the Cook Islands Kura’s Kabanas (p64; Rarotonga) port transfers if arranged in advance. On remote islands you may encounter faulty Aremango Guesthouse (p64; plumbing, cold showers, unreliable elec- Tonga Samoa Rarotonga) tricity and ‘rustic’ vibes. If you need wi-fi, For an immersive cultural experience with Samoa’s signature budget-style accommo- Gina’s Garden Lodges (p74; check in advance. a midrange price tag, stay at a Tongan-run dation is the beach fale, a simple structure Culture, Religion Aitutaki) guesthouse or B&B. Decor might be a tad that comes in a variety of styles. At their Atiu Villas (p80; ‘Atiu) The Cook Islands shabby, but the experience will certainly most simple and traditional, fale are just a On Rarotonga and Aitutaki, stay at mid- be authentic. wooden platform with poles supporting a Samoa range motels or in good-value, self-contained thatched roof, surrounded by woven blinds Namu’a Island Beach Fale (p118; holiday rentals. Expect to pay for views that can be pulled down for privacy. These & Tradition . 220 Upolu) and location. On the Cooks’ smaller outer are found on some of the best beaches. Regina’s Beach Fales (p130; Savai’i) islands, go local at family-run homestays. Going Budget American Samoa Lusia’s Lagoon Chalets (p126; If you are on a limited budget and where Savai’i) Samoa you lay your head really doesn’t worry you, There’s a dearth of budget accommodation on Tutuila, reflecting the fact that most Satuiatua Beach Fales (p133; Midrange hotel, motel and resort accom- there are some intriguing options in these visitors are there for business rather than Savai’i) modation here ranges from the slightly tropical paradises, ranging from beach- dilapidated to well-maintained rooms with front shacks to hostel dorms. tourism. American Samoa all the mod cons. Some beach fale (huts) Le Falepule (p152; Pago Pago) also enter into midrange territory. The Cook Islands Tonga On the budget side of the tracks in Raro- If spending your pa’anga on accommo- Tonga dation isn’t why you’re here, Tonga has American Samoa tonga and Aitutaki, stay at laid-back back- Port Wine Guest House (p190; A sign of American Samoa’s reliance on something for everybody. There are plenty Vava’u) packers or guesthouses – complete with US government support rather than tour- activities aplenty. of options, from rambling guest houses to Treasure Island Eco-Resort (p195; ism is the limited accommodation choice semi-permanent tents, beach-bum shacks Vava’u) on Tutuila. That said, there is a handful of and basic backpacker joints. Nerima Lodge (p171; Tongatapu) interesting and quirky midrange places to stay here. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 23 Itineraries #• AITUTAKI É # – #– #• ‘ATIU É É # – S O U T H #_ AVARUA PA C I F I C #• RAROTONGA O C E A N É # – É #• MANGAIA 2 WEEKS Southern Cook Islands The Cooks’ Southern Group is a hop, skip and jump from Rarotonga. Even if you haven’t got much time, you should still be able to tackle the whole route in two weeks – you won’t regret it! Start your trip with four days on Rarotonga: time enough for a stroll around the island’s capital, Avarua; a hike up the Cross-Island Track; a day’s snorkelling in Muri Lagoon; and a visit to the BCA Art Gallery. Don’t forget to check out an island night while you’re here. Hop on a plane for the 45-minute flight to Aitutaki, then hire a scooter and explore the island. A lagoon cruise is essential, but you could also consider hiring a kayak to explore some of the deserted motu (islets) around the lagoon’s fringe. Then it’s another short hop to ‘Atiu, where you can visit Anatakitaki, the cave of the kopeka (‘Atiuan swiftlet); sample the island’s home-grown coffee; and take an ecotour. Wing back to Rarotonga and hop on another quick flight to Mangaia – the Pacific’s oldest island – and see its extraordinary caves and vast cliffs, perhaps the most dramatic sight anywhere in the Cooks. 24 APIA SAMOA # #_ – PAGO #_PAGO AMERICAN É PLAN YOUR TRIP SAMOA S O U T H # – PA C I F I C VAVA'U GROUP O C E A N COOK ISLANDS TONGA •# É AITUTAKI •# HA'APAI É GROUP •# 'ATIU •# #– •# MA' UKE É IT # RAROTONGA – I #_ •# NERAR NUKU'ALOFA É #– •# # – MANGAIA É I É ES É É D Auckland (1700km) 4 WEEKS Polynesian Explorer With a month of island time up your sleeve, this part of Polynesia will deliver a bounty of delights. There are no direct flights between Tonga and the Cook Islands, but a short detour through Auckland in New Zealand is far from an inconvenience. Kick things off in Apia, Samoa’s capital: check out the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum, explore Upolu and spend at least one night on the beach in a traditional fale (house). Take the ferry to Savai’i for cave tunnels, lava fields and white beaches, then visit the forest-engulfed Pulemelei Mound, Polynesia’s largest ancient monument. From Apia, fly to the American Samoan capital, Pago Pago. Backed by steep moun- tains jagging down to green-blue Pago Pago Harbor, it’s one of the most improbably scenic cities in the South Pacific. Go for a sea-kayak paddle, or hole up for a few days and work on your epic South Seas novel. Fly back through Apia to scruffy-but-charming Nuku’alofa in the ancient Kingdom of Tonga: eyeball the Royal Palace en route to buzzy Talamahu Market.
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