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History of Boscastle and Trevalga by William Francis Allen Burnard

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History of Boscastle and Trevalga by William Francis Allen Burnard History of Boscastle and Trevalga by William Francis Allen Burnard. Edited and Annotated by Andrew Ross MA. 2 First Published in Australia 2007 Copyright Tryphena Publications 2007 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior permission of the copyright holder. Tryphena Publications, 53 Tanti Avenue, Mornington Victoria 3931, Australia. Frontispiece: Tryphena Ferrett aged 18, to whom this book is dedicated. She later became Tryphena Burnard (PB), the Editor’s great grandmother. Contents. Page 4. Introductions. Page 6. Trevalga. Page 9. Shipping Days at Boscastle. Page 11. Phoenician Traders. Page 13. Boscastle and Forrabury. Page 15. Tintagel. Page 16 The Origin of Boscastle. Page 18 The Oldest Part of Boscastle. Page 21. Avery and What Jabez Brown Saw. Page 23. Business houses. Page 28. The Bridge Part of the Village. Page 31. The Juggernaut. Page 32. How the Village Received its Name. Page 33. The Harbour. Page 37. The Rectory of Forrabury Page 38. The Chapels of Boscastle. Page 41. Minster Church and Priory. Page 43. The Chapel of St James the Apostle. Page 45. A Talk at The Council School. Page 47. Daddy Tregellas. Page 49. History of Forrabury and Minster Parishes. Page 53. Botreaux Family History. 3 Page 54. Origin of the Cobweb Inn. Page 53. Lost Industries and Trades. Page 58. Old Customs of the Past Page 60. The Gate and the Harbour. Page 62. My work with the Church. Page 67. The Gold Circlet or Lunula. Page 67. The Barony of Botreaux. Page 68. Forrabury Church Has One Bell Page 72. The Red-Hot Shilling. Page 74. Entertainments. Page 76. PSA Brotherhood Page 78. Newquay. Page 80. Conclusion Page 81. Bibliography. Acknowledgements Thanks are due to John Wakelin for permission to use some photographs of the churches and views of Boscastle. The remaining photographs and other printed material are from the Burnard family collection held by the Editor. This work would not have been possible without the love and support given by my family Pamela, Miles and Perran, and my parents Mavis (nee Burnard) and Alf Ross, together with my brother Chris and his family, Erica, Natasha, Sophie, Stuart and Tamsyn. I would also like to thank Annie Hillermann and Steve Ainsworth for their friendship over the years and for helping to keep my love for Boscastle alive since my move to Australia. Thanks also to Anne Higgs for her help and reminiscences of the author and to Anne Knight for her offer of access to the Boscastle Archive. During my visit to Boscastle in the aftermath of the recent floods, I read, with great interest, the Book of Boscastle by Anne and her husband Rod. There is some overlap between the Book of Boscastle and this present volume, but I have reproduced my great grandfather’s book largely as he wrote it in 1962. Finally, my thanks to the libraries of La Trobe University, Monash University and the University of Melbourne for many pleasant hours spent filling in some of the gaps in this book and researching for my studies in other areas. 4 The Author with the Editor, December 1952. Editor’s Introduction William Francis Allen Burnard was my great grandfather. He wrote this book in 1962 whilst living at Bridge House in Boscastle. He was born at Trewarmett in 1878 and died at Boscastle in 1972. His father John lived to the age of 92 and died in 1930. I have reproduced the book here essentially as it was written, apart from a few minor corrections. Where possible, I have checked and referenced the sources that he used, but if there are any unacknowledged sources I must apologise for the unintentional plagiarism. As the book was written in longhand, the occasional letter is uncertain. Mornington, 2007. 5 Introduction What prompted me to commence writing this work, and what prompted me to interest myself and to ponder, and in my quiet moments, to sit down and outline thought? It was to walk up through the Valency Valley, listen to the song of the birds, the cuckoo with its repetition of notes, the woodpigeon with its wooing sounds, to be wrapt up with nature and lost to the outer world. And then to walk along the paths to the harbour and the cliffs as they tower above, to see the nature of the rocks in their formation and, when the sea is rough, to watch the waves lash furiously against them. My thoughts turn to the Meachard Rock, the island off Penally Point. I am led to believe that, sometime in the history of the world, this island was connected to the cliffs. I cannot allow myself to think that this is gross exaggeration or conjecture, and more so as I have seen large portions of cliff- and landslides up and down the Cornish coast. This is what prompted me to visualise what now is known as Boscastle and to wonder how it became a village of some importance, having been, at one time, an uninhabited cove or creek. Now it has become a place of importance and its beauty and attractiveness cannot be surpassed. This is how many of the visitors and tourists that I have talked to have described the place. My best wishes are to the readers of this book and I hope that, as they peruse its pages, it may add to the interest of the place with its living memories. Also, to the visitor and tourist, it is the sincere wish of the writer that their visit to the village may be the best holiday of their lives. W.F. Burnard, Bridge House, Boscastle, April 10 th 1962. 6 Boscastle Harbour Above is a picture of Boscastle Harbour, where once a dozen ships could be seen loading and unloading. Ox wagons met the southwest cargoes. Trevalga Midway between Boscastle and Tintagel lies the hamlet of Trevalga, just a few cottages on either side of the road leading off the main road to the church and farm, only to peter out a few hundred yards or more from the cliff edge. Motorists on their way to the more pretentious and advertised centres of interest will rush by with a toot of impatience, perhaps stopping at the crossroads, should they make a pause. Cyclists at more leisured pace may give the little place a glance, at any rate. Walkers may even pause a while to visit the church and explore a little more before making their way by the cliff path, which here affords them a view of one of the grandest coastal scenes in the world. Very few of these visitors, however, will stop long enough to gain an intimacy with the place or gather anything of its memories. True, there is little to draw the attention of the casual passer-by. Above all there is no Inn today to offer the traveller rest and refreshment and an opportunity to hear a few tales of the past about smuggling and ships being lured ashore and onto the rocks. Where the Inn once stood there is now a private house. The inn that once existed was considered to be a most important inn that did a thriving business, owing to its position on what was once a busy trade route. Instead of horses, wagons and other means of traffic, there is now not a sign of its former purpose and activity. 7 Trevalga had an importance all of its own one hundred years ago before the making of the railway to north Cornwall, and was known to many business people. Boscastle Boscastle, with its little harbour, handled a large proportion of the trade between Bristol and the south western ports. In fact, the district between Boscastle, Tintagel, Camelford and Delabole was mainly dependent on the harbour at Boscastle for its supplies of coal and other imports. This trade was, at the time, carried out by sailing ships of up to 90, 100 and 200 tons. These ships were mostly registered at the old port of Appledore. Some of their names were Saint Mary, Francis Drake, Whynot, Lively and Beddoe. There is in existence a book of accounts, the record of wages paid to the crew of schooner Levant built at Brixham in 1868. The entries cover the period from September 1896 to May 1902. This little ship, although perhaps a recent member of the fleet, holds a special place in our story. Captain Joseph Sharrock was the uncle of Mr Thomas Sharrock, the present proprietor of the grocery stores in High Street, Boscastle, where one can still experience the niceties of personal attention and service and indulge in a social chat. There are still other stores with the same atmosphere. Trevalga Trevalga Church. 8 Norman Font in Trevalga Church. Now to return to Trevalga again. I have already stated that it is a small hamlet that has not had its name changed since the Domesday Book. The church is dedicated to Saint Petroc and near its porch is an ancient cross 5 feet 8 inches high. The register of burials dates from 1538. Candon Barrow, some distance inland, rises to a height of 1,011feet and King Arthur’s Quoit lies about half a mile west of the hamlet. Long Island, the peculiar sharp peak of which rises to a 9 height of 300 feet, is a conspicuous object on the coast. Slate quarries were worked in the area for many years and the slate was probably taken to Boscastle to be shipped away to various ports.
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