History of Boscastle and Trevalga by William Francis Allen Burnard

Home , Beeny, Boscastle, Camelford, Cyclone Anne (2014), Davidstow, Forrabury and Minster

History of Boscastle and Trevalga by William Francis Allen Burnard. Edited and Annotated by Andrew Ross MA.

First Published in Australia 2007

Tryphena Publications, 53 Tanti Avenue, Mornington Victoria 3931, Australia.

Frontispiece: Tryphena Ferrett aged 18, to whom this book is dedicated. She later became Tryphena Burnard (PB), the Editor’s great grandmother.

Contents. Page 4. Introductions. Page 6. Trevalga. Page 9. Shipping Days at Boscastle. Page 11. Phoenician Traders. Page 13. Boscastle and Forrabury. Page 15. Tintagel. Page 16 The Origin of Boscastle. Page 18 The Oldest Part of Boscastle. Page 21. Avery and What Jabez Brown Saw. Page 23. Business houses. Page 28. The Bridge Part of the Village. Page 31. The Juggernaut. Page 32. How the Village Received its Name. Page 33. The Harbour. Page 37. The Rectory of Forrabury Page 38. The Chapels of Boscastle. Page 41. Minster Church and Priory. Page 43. The Chapel of St James the Apostle. Page 45. A Talk at The Council School. Page 47. Daddy Tregellas. Page 49. History of Forrabury and Minster Parishes. Page 53. Botreaux Family History. 3

Page 54. Origin of the Cobweb Inn. Page 53. Lost Industries and Trades. Page 58. Old Customs of the Past Page 60. The Gate and the Harbour. Page 62. My work with the Church. Page 67. The Gold Circlet or Lunula. Page 67. The Barony of Botreaux. Page 68. Forrabury Church Has One Bell Page 72. The Red-Hot Shilling. Page 74. Entertainments. Page 76. PSA Brotherhood Page 78. Newquay. Page 80. Conclusion Page 81. Bibliography.

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to John Wakelin for permission to use some photographs of the churches and views of Boscastle. The remaining photographs and other printed material are from the Burnard family collection held by the Editor. This work would not have been possible without the love and support given by my family Pamela, Miles and Perran, and my parents Mavis (nee Burnard) and Alf Ross, together with my brother Chris and his family, Erica, Natasha, Sophie, Stuart and Tamsyn. I would also like to thank Annie Hillermann and Steve Ainsworth for their friendship over the years and for helping to keep my love for Boscastle alive since my move to Australia. Thanks also to Anne Higgs for her help and reminiscences of the author and to Anne Knight for her offer of access to the Boscastle Archive. During my visit to Boscastle in the aftermath of the recent floods, I read, with great interest, the Book of Boscastle by Anne and her husband Rod. There is some overlap between the Book of Boscastle and this present volume, but I have reproduced my great grandfather’s book largely as he wrote it in 1962. Finally, my thanks to the libraries of La Trobe University, Monash University and the University of Melbourne for many pleasant hours spent filling in some of the gaps in this book and researching for my studies in other areas.

The Author with the Editor, December 1952.

Editor’s Introduction

William Francis Allen Burnard was my great grandfather. He wrote this book in 1962 whilst living at Bridge House in Boscastle. He was born at Trewarmett in 1878 and died at Boscastle in 1972. His father John lived to the age of 92 and died in 1930. I have reproduced the book here essentially as it was written, apart from a few minor corrections. Where possible, I have checked and referenced the sources that he used, but if there are any unacknowledged sources I must apologise for the unintentional plagiarism. As the book was written in longhand, the occasional letter is uncertain. Mornington, 2007. 5

Introduction

What prompted me to commence writing this work, and what prompted me to interest myself and to ponder, and in my quiet moments, to sit down and outline thought? It was to walk up through the Valency Valley, listen to the song of the birds, the cuckoo with its repetition of notes, the woodpigeon with its wooing sounds, to be wrapt up with nature and lost to the outer world. And then to walk along the paths to the harbour and the cliffs as they tower above, to see the nature of the rocks in their formation and, when the sea is rough, to watch the waves lash furiously against them. My thoughts turn to the Meachard Rock, the island off Penally Point. I am led to believe that, sometime in the history of the world, this island was connected to the cliffs. I cannot allow myself to think that this is gross exaggeration or conjecture, and more so as I have seen large portions of cliff- and landslides up and down the Cornish coast. This is what prompted me to visualise what now is known as Boscastle and to wonder how it became a village of some importance, having been, at one time, an uninhabited cove or creek. Now it has become a place of importance and its beauty and attractiveness cannot be surpassed. This is how many of the visitors and tourists that I have talked to have described the place. My best wishes are to the readers of this book and I hope that, as they peruse its pages, it may add to the interest of the place with its living memories. Also, to the visitor and tourist, it is the sincere wish of the writer that their visit to the village may be the best holiday of their lives. W.F. Burnard, Bridge House, Boscastle, April 10 th 1962.

Boscastle Harbour

Above is a picture of Boscastle Harbour, where once a dozen ships could be seen loading and unloading. Ox wagons met the southwest cargoes.

Trevalga

Midway between Boscastle and Tintagel lies the hamlet of Trevalga, just a few cottages on either side of the road leading off the main road to the church and farm, only to peter out a few hundred yards or more from the cliff edge. Motorists on their way to the more pretentious and advertised centres of interest will rush by with a toot of impatience, perhaps stopping at the crossroads, should they make a pause. Cyclists at more leisured pace may give the little place a glance, at any rate. Walkers may even pause a while to visit the church and explore a little more before making their way by the cliff path, which here affords them a view of one of the grandest coastal scenes in the world. Very few of these visitors, however, will stop long enough to gain an intimacy with the place or gather anything of its memories. True, there is little to draw the attention of the casual passer-by. Above all there is no Inn today to offer the traveller rest and refreshment and an opportunity to hear a few tales of the past about smuggling and ships being lured ashore and onto the rocks. Where the Inn once stood there is now a private house. The inn that once existed was considered to be a most important inn that did a thriving business, owing to its position on what was once a busy trade route. Instead of horses, wagons and other means of traffic, there is now not a sign of its former purpose and activity. 7

Trevalga had an importance all of its own one hundred years ago before the making of the railway to north Cornwall, and was known to many business people. Boscastle

Boscastle, with its little harbour, handled a large proportion of the trade between Bristol and the south western ports. In fact, the district between Boscastle, Tintagel, Camelford and Delabole was mainly dependent on the harbour at Boscastle for its supplies of coal and other imports. This trade was, at the time, carried out by sailing ships of up to 90, 100 and 200 tons. These ships were mostly registered at the old port of Appledore. Some of their names were Saint Mary, Francis Drake, Whynot, Lively and Beddoe. There is in existence a book of accounts, the record of wages paid to the crew of schooner Levant built at Brixham in 1868. The entries cover the period from September 1896 to May 1902. This little ship, although perhaps a recent member of the fleet, holds a special place in our story. Captain Joseph Sharrock was the uncle of Mr Thomas Sharrock, the present proprietor of the grocery stores in High Street, Boscastle, where one can still experience the niceties of personal attention and service and indulge in a social chat. There are still other stores with the same atmosphere. Trevalga

Trevalga Church. 8

Norman Font in Trevalga Church.

Now to return to Trevalga again. I have already stated that it is a small hamlet that has not had its name changed since the Domesday Book. The church is dedicated to Saint Petroc and near its porch is an ancient cross 5 feet 8 inches high. The register of burials dates from 1538. Candon Barrow, some distance inland, rises to a height of 1,011feet and King Arthur’s Quoit lies about half a mile west of the hamlet. Long Island, the peculiar sharp peak of which rises to a 9 height of 300 feet, is a conspicuous object on the coast. Slate quarries were worked in the area for many years and the slate was probably taken to Boscastle to be shipped away to various ports. Trevalga had its tradesmen, blacksmiths and carpenters, who were always very busy. Blacksmiths attending to horses whose shoes were lost or badly worn and carpenters dealing with wagons and carts that needed repairs due to so much heavy cartage. While the horses were being shod, the drivers probably took refreshment at the inn before going on to Boscastle with their loads of slate and other goods. Now those days are a matter of history, the village is a peaceful place and instead of the wagons and carts, the sound of horses’ hooves and the ring of the blacksmith’s anvil, all is quiet, apart from the sounds of cars, coaches and motor bikes speeding by on the main road. The name Trevalga has been described by one writer as originating from the Cornish Trev alga, the noble house.

Some of the rectors of Trevalga, with their dates of institution, were:

August 10 th 1669, Samson Robins. July 2 nd 1691, Thomas Trenick. September 30 th 1701, Joseph Chilcott. July 23 rd 1702, Edmund Venning. September 25 th 1704, John Fursman. June 17 th 1723, Samuel Croker. June 18 th 1757, Joseph Thorpe. October 26 th 1779, William Laskey. November 8 th 1792, James May. November 30 th 1882, John Trehane Symons, son of the late vicar of Feock.

Boscastle 80 years ago, July 10 th 1886 At the City of London Auction Market, Tokenhouseyard, on Thursday, nearly the whole of the town of Boscastle with the ancient Castle, and a landed estate of 1000 acres changed hands at 35,000 pounds. (an extract from the Cornish and Devon Post )

Shipping days at Boscastle The harbour at Boscastle, in the days when ships carried cargoes to different ports and returned with coals, and sometimes timber, was very difficult to approach. It was never safe for ships to enter under their own sail, so on their 10 arrival, a boat with nine men called “hobblers” would go out to meet them and tow them in to their berth. 1 A Scene of Activity The ship safely moored, the quayside became a scene of activity as the unloading of the cargo began. Wagons and carts , two or three horse wagons, sometimes two horses to large carts, lined up to receive the coals, iron, salt, manure and general cargoes, sometimes timber from as far away as Quebec. As these wagons were loaded, they were lined up and the extra horses were attached to them in preparation for the long and steep ascent that faced them on the first part of their journey to their various destinations.

Before what is now called the New Road In the days before what is now known as the New Road was made, all traffic had to ascend the very steep hill through the village that is now called Old Road. In our mind’s eye we can follow that procession of heavily–laden wagons, the powerful heavy horses straining at their chains, the cracks of the drivers’ whips and their encouraging shouts to their teams as they made their way up the High Street to the top of the steep climb to Polruny Farm, nearly two miles from the Harbour. From here, after discharging some of their loads on the way, they would make their way to Delabole, where they would collect loads of slate from the quarry before returning to Boscastle. The return journey took them via the steep descent to Trebarwith Valley, through Trewarmett to Bossinney and on past Rocky Valley to Trevalga.

A Halt at the Inn Here, a halt would be made at the Inn to rest the horses and for their drivers to have some refreshment. It was not unknown for the wagons that were drawn up here to stretch for a mile along the road. This would have been a magnificent sight, it is no wonder that those who can remember it refer to it with such enthusiasm. The Procession on its Way Soon the procession would be on its way, when the horses had rested and the men had finished their refreshment, past Forrabury Church and so via the steep descent down the old road to the quayside at the harbour. The loads of slate would be shipped and the wagons would disperse to prepare for the next trip. About a hundred years ago, similar wagons would be drawn by teams of six or eight oxen. It would be during the summer months that most of the shipping could be done, because the winter weather allowed only an occasional ship to enter the harbour. Sometimes, during the summer months, there were to be seen a dozen ships at a time in the harbour, loading and unloading. Up to 1915 there was the Old Ship inn at the centre of the Bridge part of Boscastle.2 This had

1 See Knight and Knight 2004, front cover and p 51. 2 See ibid pp 65-66. 11 been the rendezvous of the ships’ crews for centuries, where many of the men recounted the experiences of their various trips. It is surprising what quantity of goods passed through Boscastle in those days, it is said that 8000 tons of coal alone were unloaded on the quay during a single season. Mishaps sometimes occurred, one ship, the Bottreux Castle missed her course in some way and became a wreck outside the harbour 3. It is not known exactly when Boscastle became a port and anchorage, but records of its trading activities go back for centuries. There is little reason to doubt the tradition that the cove was used by ships before Celtic times and before the coming of Christianity to these shores. Boscastle as a trading port came finally to an end in 1914.

Phoenician Traders It is very probable that the Phoenician traders came to Boscastle in the first or second millennium before Christ. It would be very interesting indeed if the truth of this could be established. No considerable tin mines are known to have been worked in the ancient world except those of Cornwall and a few of the Indian islands. 4 In patriarchal times a considerable trade in tin and copper was carried on between Phoenicia and Britain: the former country did its utmost to keep the knowledge of these islands from others. Ezekiel (27 , 12) names tin as one of the staple imports of Tyre and it is supposed to have been exported from Cornwall into Spain by the ships of Tarshish, and thence to Tyre. In the primitive British laws metallurgy is significantly classed as one of the arts. Herodotus (The History , 3, 115) “the father of profane history” alludes 5 to the established commerce of Britain, which was then known as the “Tin Islands”. Aristotle (On the Cosmos )6, the preceptor of Alexander the Great, speaks of the Brittanic Isles as well known to his countrymen. Poseidonius states (quoted in Strabo, Geography , 3,2,9) that tin was brought from the Brittanic Islands to Massilia. Diodorus Siculus says ( Library of History , 5, 21, 22, 38) The inhabitants are hospitable, and, on account of their intercourse with strangers, civilised in their habits: they have many kings and princes, and for the most part live peaceably. Here traders buy tin from the natives, carry to Gaul, over which it travels on horseback in about thirty days, to the mouths of the Rhone , Strabo, the Cappadocian geographer, refers ( Geography , 3, 5, 11 ) to their commercial enterprise in lead, tin and skins: and speaks of Britain as the Tin Islands. He describes the inhabitants as walking with staves, wearing beards and

3 See Knight and Knight 2004, 77. 4 Recent work has suggested that this is not the case and the Phoenician connection with Cornwall is not considered definite. See Penhallurick 1986, Chapter 21. It is worth bearing in mind, however, the archaeologist’s principle that “Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence”. 5 Herodotus mentioned the Cassiterides or Tin Islands, but did not know if they existed. He was convinced that tin came “from the ends of the Earth” but was not sure if there was any sea on the further side of Europe.. 6 Text not located as yet 12 garments girded at the waist and flowing down to their heels. 7 According to Pliny ( Natural History, 4, 30, 36, 34 , 47-48), these metals were so highly esteemed that they were given in exchange for the most precious gems 8. He calls the Tin Islands the “Happy Islands”. There is also historical evidence that the Carthaginians procured tin from Britain and that the somewhat vague expression “the Tin Islands” had reference to Cornwall, the Isle of Wight, and the Channel Islands. In the Periplus of Arrian 9 tin is mentioned as being imported from the west and not from the east: we should, however, suppose that this statement does not negate its production from the east, only that the bulk came from the islands in the west. The chief cities of Phoenicia were Sidon, Tyre, Ptolemais, Eodippe, Sarepta, Berythe, Byblos, Tripoli, Orthoria, Simira and Aradus. They formerly had posession of some cities in Libanus and sometimes the Greek authors comprehend all of Judea under the name Phoenicia. Phoenicia may be considered as the birthplace of commerce if not also letters and arts. It was Phoenicia who introduced into Greece the knowledge and use of letters. Phoenician workmen built the Temple of Solomon and Phoenician sailors navigated his ships. Phoenician pilots directed them and before other nations had ventured to lose sight of their own shores, colonies of Phoenicians were established in most distant parts of Europe, Asia and Africa. These early advantages were owing, doubtless, in part, to their central situation, which enabled to draw into their own narrow territory all the commerce between the east and west. But the most famous of all their colonies was that of Carthage. There is historical evidence that the Carthaginians

7 Strabo wrote: The Cassiterides are ten in number, and they lie near each other in the high sea to the north of the port of the Artabrians. One of them is desert, but the rest are inhabited by people who wear black cloaks, go clad in tunics that reach to their feet, wear belts around their breasts, walk around with canes, and resemble the goddesses of vengeance in tragedies. They live off their herds, leading for the most part a nomadic life. As they have mines of tin and lead, they give these metals and the hides from their cattle to the sea-traders in exchange for pottery, salt and copper utensils. Now in former times it was the Phoenicians alone who carried on this commerce (that is, from Gades), for they kept the voyage hidden from every one else. And when once the Romans were closely following a certain ship-captain in order that they too might learn the markets in question, out of jealousy the ship-captain purposely drove his ship out of its course into shoal water; and after he had lured the followers into the same ruin, he himself escaped by a piece of wreckage and received from the State the value of the cargo he had lost. Still, by trying many times, the Romans learned all about the voyage. After Publius Crassus crossed over to these people and saw that the metals were being dug from only a slight depth, and that the men there were peaceable, he forthwith laid abundant information before all who wished to traffic over this sea, albeit a wider sea than that which separates Britain from the continent. So much, then, for Iberia and the islands that lie off its coast. 8 This is slightly misleading. What Pliny actually said was that the Indians had no tin of their own and so paid for it with jewels and pearls. 9 I believe that this refers to The Periplus of the Erythrean Sea , which was, at one time, attributed to Arrian. The relevant part (28) refers to tin being exported from Egypt to the east. 13 procured tin from Britain and that the expression the “Tin Islands” had reference to Cornwall. 10 John Capgrave, in the biblical portion of his learned Chronicle of England (p37) says “At the time of the death of Eli, the priest of the Tabernacle, BC 1116, Brute that was of Eneas of Troy , King, came into this land and called it Britayn, after his name. When he died, he divided his kingdom to his three sons. The first named Leogrius; and to him he gave the land from Dover to the Humber. The second son named Albanactus, and to him he gave all Scotland unto the Humber. The third named Camber, to him he gave all the whole of Wales. The first country was called in those days, Loegria, the second Albania, the third Cambria.” As I have been relating some features of history with regard to our beloved land, the part which we call Cornwall is more interesting to us who live within its boundaries. Cornwall with its own language which, unfortunately, is not now widely spoken, but which is kept in memory by a number who have time and interest. Cornwall with its motto “One and All.” Now I will take the reader to one of Cornwall’s outstanding beauty spots and relate something of its history, how it came on the map, how it came into being and how it became such a charming beauty spot.

Boscastle and Forrabury.

The following interesting piece of history relating to Boscastle is from an old Cornwall Directory dated 1871. “Boscastle is a small seaport town situated on the north coast of the county, 18 miles west of Launceston, 18 north from Bodmin and 6 north west from Camelford, in the parishes of Minster and Forrabury, Camelford Union and County Court district, rural deanery of Trigg Minor, Cornwall archdeaconry and Exeter diocese. Forrabury is a Parish. The church of St. Symphorian is a building in the perpendicular style, which was thoroughly restored and enlarged in the year 1867. It has a chancel, nave, north aisle, south transept, and tower with one bell.

10 The topic of trade between Cornwall and the Mediterranean region in Antiquity is large and beyond the scope of the present volume. The tin trade has been covered extensively in Penhallurick 1986. It is interesting to speculate about contacts between Cornwall and the Mycenaeans and even New Kingdom Egypt, but evidence is thin or non-existent. Penhallurick 1986 contains a chapter on finds from tin workings and a number of these are of Middle Bronze Age period. Unfortunately, the majority of these objects were found some time ago and are now lost..Numerous works by Charles Thomas have shown the extent of trade in the Post Roman period and there is probably much more evidence waiting to be discovered. In this respect, I await the results of the promised Archaeological survey of Boscastle Harbour in the aftermath of the recent floods. The record for the Roman period is probably not yet complete. More work needs to be done on Roman interaction with Cornwall and possible routes into the county to locate the places mentioned in Ptolemy’s Geography and the Ravenna Cosmography. Useful sources in this respect are Rivet and Smith 1979, 103-147 and Thomas 1993, 82-85. It might also be interesting to follow up my father’s recollection of there being a reputed Roman road adjacent to Coast View between Bude and Stratton. 14

The register from the year 1710. The living is a rectory, yearly value 80 Pounds, including residence and 13A, 2R of Glebe land in the gift of Miss Hellyar, and held by the Rev. William John Kirkness MA of Queens College Cambridge, who is also Rector of the adjoining Parish of Minster. There is the national school for the Parishes of Forrabury, Minster and Trevalga. There are three Chapels, Wesleyan Methodists, United Methodists and Bible Christians. There is an Almshouse, intended for the benefit of six poor people of good character. Fairs are held in August and November, yearly for lambs, sheep and cattle. The trade of the port is chiefly coals, slate is also shipped and general merchandise. Miss Hellyar is the Lady of the Manor. William Sloggat Roseveare, William Sloggat Hawker and Lord Robartes, are chief landowners. The soil is dark, subsoil, rock and slate. The chief crops are wheat, barley, oats and turnips. The area is 508 acres, gross estimated rental of 1656 Pounds, rateable value 1861 pounds and the population in 1871 was 360. The Post Office. Post and money order office. Henry Cory Harris Postmaster. Letters per rail to Launceston, arrive at 9.25 am, despatched at 2.25 pm. The National School. John Adams, Master. Harbourmaster Robert Giddy. Private residents the following; Claudius Criggan Hawker, Penally House. William Sloggat Hawker, J.P. Penally House Miss Ann Avery Hellyar, Bridge. 11 Rev. William John Kirkness, Rector, Forrabury Rectory. Luke John Henry, Barn Park. Arthur Wade, Doctor, Orchard House. Ralph Wade, Melbourne Villa.

Business Houses Solomon Banbury, grocer. John Bellamy, shipowner. William Bluet, Ship Inn. Henry Bone, shopkeeper. Jabez Brown & co. general merchants. Edward Buller, shopkeeper. Elizabeth Burden (mrs.) day school. William Calwill, carpenter. Peter Cotton, Napoleon Inn. Thomas Cowling, butcher. William Dawe, blacksmith. Thomas Force, shoemaker. William Gard and Walter Gard, masons.

11 The last direct descendant of the Hender family, Lords of the manor 1575-1885. See Knight and Knight 2004, 34-35. 15

John Gard, Boscastle Inn. Pascoe Gard, butcher. Gilbert William, Farmer. Harris and Smith, drapers. Claudius Criggan Hawker, solicitor. William Sloggat Hawker, merchant. Richard Heard junior, fisherman. Francis Hurden, druggist and chemist. George Jenkin, carpenter. James Jennings, carpenter. Frederick Jewell, draper and grocer. William Heals, butcher. James Parsons, shoemaker. William Parsons, butcher. John Prout, Blacksmith. Richard Rawle, carpenter. John Reynolds, general merchant. Philip Rickard, naturalist. William Scott, Wellington Family Hotel. James Squire, miller. Pentycost Symons, Farmer. John Henry Luke, surgeon. Henry E. Fullidge, Accountant. Arthur Wade, surgeon, Orchard house. Martyn Wevill, draper and general merchant. Wickett, Mathew, land surveyer.

Carriers. Horse conveyances John French, journeys to Launceston, Tuesdays and Saturdays, to Padstow, every other Thursday. Samuel Langdon,- to Launceston, Wednesdays and Saturdays.

Sailing Vessels Regular sailings between Bristol and Boscastle,- owner, Jabez Brown & Co.

Tintagel

As Tintagel is just a short distance from Boscastle and is associated with many things of historical value and, furthermore, might even be interesting to the reader, as Tintagel has a place on the map for visitors to the West country- 1961. What I am about to write dates back to 1871,

From an old Cornish Directory

Tintagel is a parish, 6 miles northwest of Camelford, 3 miles west from Boscastle. It is situated near the entrance of the Bristol Channel. The church of St. Symphorian is an old cruciform building in many styles and was restored in 1870. It has a chancel, nave, aisles, transepts, chantry chapel and a low, square tower with five bells, the windows are decorated with stained glass. This church contains much work of undoubted Saxon date, and is in many respects the most interesting church in the country. 12 The register dates from about the year 1500. The living is a vicarage, yearly value 268 Pounds, with residence and 98 acres of glebe land (of which a slate quarry is part,) and is the gift of the Dean and Canons of Windsor and held by the Rev. Prebendary Richard Bryn Kindsman. There are several slate quarries. A fair is held on the Monday following October 18 th , yearly for cattle. The Parish abounds in picturesque coastal scenery. Here are the ruins of Tintagel Castle of which the Rev. Kindsman is High Constable, and which was the reputed birthplace of King Arthur. Post Office, William Parnell, receiver, letters through Camelford. Boscastle is the nearest money order and telegraph office. National school, William Libby, Master.

I have vivid recollections of the old Parson, who was an extraordinary personality, an extremist as a clergyman, no room whatsoever for the Nonconformist. My Mother and Father, who were born in the Parish, related to me many stories relative to his strange ideas and ways. What I remember of him was when I was a boy of about 12 when I spent a holiday with an uncle and aunt who were farmers at Fenterfriddle in the Parish. My parents were living in Newquay at that time. I have very many happy memories of those days. The original name of Tintagel was Trevena and Tintagel was the name of the parish. According to the Old Directory, which refers to a village called Trevena, east of the parish church, there is nothing of interest mentioned about the village. Tintagel was also called Tindagel, Dundagel, Dyndagell and Dun-diogel. 13

Vicars insituted at the church

1684, March 6 th , John Gill. 1692, December 2 nd , Christopher Chilcott. 1726, June 10 th , Edward Stephens. 1737, November 3 rd , Jonathan Baron. 1755, June 4 th , James Evans. 1770, January 3 rd , Arthur Wade. 1810, May 28 th , Charles Dayman. 1835, May 5 th , Robert Stapylton Bree.

12 Clearly, the site of the church was used by Christians even earlier than this, see Nowakowski and Thomas 1990 and Thomas 1993, 100-110 for the results of recent excavations at Tintagel, 13 See Padel in Thomas 1981, 29 for the possible derivation of the name. 17

The Origin of Boscastle.

On the coast line is situated a very secluded little cove, a one time haven for passing ships caught in a storm and also a hiding place for smugglers. This was at the time before the island was disconnected from the mainland, when the cove was snuggled in what was then a natural breakwater, standing against the pounding, roaring and lashing of the heavy seas, which can beat with such terrific force all along the coast. When the outer part, which is now the island, became separated off is not known, but to the onlooker it can be seen that this was not an impossibility, with the constant lashing and power of the terrible seas. The Blowhole, as we know it, will prove in time what the sea can do when the part with Profile Rock is separated from the mainland, the sea will then have full access to the harbour. But how did Boscastle come into being? After much study and thought as I have walked along the cliffs and pictured in my mind many things concerning its origin and how it came to be as it is now, many thoughts and ideas came to my mind. It is concerning what I have mentioned and the vision as I see it, that my pen has become busy. Much sand was washed up at times and remained, forming a beach. The river that has been flowing very probably from the time of the Creation, sometimes a small stream, larger after a lot of rain, sometimes on one side of the valley, sometimes changing to the other, because there were no roads on either side them. On digging down two or three feet in some parts I discovered washed gravel, which is sufficient proof that the river flowed here and there on either side, what I have made reference to was far away from the sea. 14 Before there were houses in the area, it is quite possible that farmers living miles inland came down to the cove for sand for their fields and it is quite possible that on these occasions there would be ships beached on the sand, waiting for the incoming tide, after sheltering from rough weather in the cove. At such times it may be that the farmers with their carts or wagons became friendly with the ship’s crews and it is not unlikely that business was transacted in some form or other. In time, news of this contact would reach the owners of the ships and business deals would be put into operation and cargoes brought and landed on the on the sand or rocks and taken away by the farmers. It is quite possible that, in time, buildings of some sort were put up for storage and cottages were put up for workers. And so it is not unreasonable to suppose that this is how Boscastle originated or came into being. Boscastle at one time became a manor estate. Many years ago I had the pleasure of attending a dinner at the Wellington given by the Manor authorities. After the dinner there were toasts and speeches, and an historical account given

14 This was done in the grounds of Valency House, which was the family business for a number of years. 18 by a Mr Thurlby, a solicitor for the Manor. He gave facts and figures which went back over centuries. The estate covered a radius of 18 miles or more.

The Oldest Part of Boscastle Now the question may be asked and has been asked often by visitors, which is the oldest part of the village, the higher or the lower? Now this may seem somewhat difficult to answer. I have no information relative to such a question and it is quite possible that there is not any written material to reveal where or when houses were built, but I am led to think that it might be possible that it was in the upper part of the village where the first houses were built but this is only conjecture on my part. I do, however, think that it is quite reasonable to assume that the higher part of the village is where the builder first laid his material. Lord Bottreaux built his castle on the piece of land which is now known as the mound, a portion of ground where half circles are now quite prominent as the earth and grass slopes away and where pieces of granite, some large and some small, were discovered when the war memorial was built. All this goes to prove that this was a part of the Castle Bottreaux. This, I am led to think, was the first building in Boscastle. Other buildings followed as time went on, such as cottages for those who worked on the Bottreaux Estate. Then, in the passage of time, other houses were built and eventually a shop and it is quite possible that the shop that I refer to is now owned by Mr Sharrock, if not the same building, then one on the original foundations. Then there stood, above the Napoleon Inn, a beer house as they were called long ago and another below Sharrock’s shop. And so the higher part of what was beginning to shape itself as a village led to the formation of the lower part. This would be when ships came into what was then a cove, probably known as “High Cliff Cove”, a place very widely known to the smuggling community, where contraband goods could be easily disposed of. When the first shipping was done in the cove it is quite possible that the cargoes were unloaded on the beach or low rocks and taken away quickly, the ships coming in at one tide and leaving on the next. The same has been done in later days after the harbour was built. As time went along and business began to move, warehouses and coal stores were built and workmen’s cottages. Some of the houses now at the lower part of the village are very old, going back hundreds of years. In one house which the writer of this book lived in for thirty two years one of the walls was about four feet thick and near the corner of a room inside of a door was a cavity about two feet square, or perhaps a little more. 15 This went down twelve feet or more and was very probably used by a notorious old wrecker and receiver of contraband goods of which I shall refer to later on.

15 This was Valency House, which survived the 2004 floods relatively unscathed. 19

In the course of time the lower part of the village became the business quarter where merchants built their warehouses and coal stores and a very considerable amount of business was transacted. The outstanding business houses that are at the bridge part of the village were built on the same parts where the old store buildings were put up centuries ago by the farmers and business men of that time. They were just temporary structures. Which of the stores now standing was the first to be built, I have no information. It might have been what is now the Cobweb Inn, but again I have nothing to relate other than it was owned by a man named Avery, who was at one time in possession of the whole Manor Estate. What are now known as Ward’s Stores and Burnard’s Stores may have been built somewhere about the same time, but both houses have a long record and were probably built on the sites of older buildings. The old store buildings were very roughly put up but were very durable to resist the rough weather conditions that the valley was subject to, the north-westerly gales etc. Now the lower part, what is known as Boscastle Bridge, has been modernised and the very old houses have been given a new look according to modern terms. The old cottages, or a number of them, have been reconditioned and have lost their quaintness. The old Bridge was so badly damaged two or three years ago by flooding that it was necessary to build a new one 16 . Furthermore, some distance above the bridge on the road to Bude, a new Free Car Park has been made and will prove to be a considerable asset to the village. 17 So what was known as being old and antiquated has now been transformed or nearly so into a new part, which has become very attractive to tourists. Up to now, I have not mentioned anything relative to Boscastle’s flooding and the transformation which followed the building of the new bridge. The Bridge part of Boscastle has had its share of flooding over the years. The floods of 1950 were caused by a cloud burst about four or five miles up above Otterham. All around the Bridge part was awash for a while on account of the archway beneath the bridge being choked with floating tree branches and other matter stopping the outflow of the water, which quickly ran out over the banks. A number of houses had water coming in at the back door and going through the house and out through the front, taking furniture and other things with its flow. There was one unfortunate happening. Two young women were trying to save something at the back of the back of the house and got washed away, but by what one might call almost a miracle, a man who was near the river some distance downstream was able to rescue them. The second flooding took place in 1958, when there was another cloudburst almost in the same direction, when a considerable amount of damage was

16 In the 1958 floods. 17 I have always found it very irritating to have to pay to park here. Clearly this was not always the case, until the Council started treating the Car Park as a moneymaking scheme. 20 caused, flooding of property and much destruction. This was the time when the bridge was almost washed away and furniture washed out of houses. The grocery stores had five feet of water in the basement and destroying several hundreds of pounds worth of stock kept in that part of the building. The most tragic event of all on this occasion was the loss of the life of one who was greatly respected in the village. He was, at the time, rendering a helping hand when the tragedy happened. Since this last event, as I have already mentioned, a new bridge has been built with a longer span. 18

Photographs of the 1958 floods

18 Although it clearly did not entirely solve the problem. 21

Avery and what Jabez Brown saw.

Mr Avery, or “Squire” as he was called, was a very remarkable business man, he employed quite a number of men and was very strict as far as work was concerned. Everyone who worked for him had to be prompt on time, any man late for work in the morning would be fined and that meant something to the workers, especially on the small amount of wages that were paid in those days. Avery would sometimes seek the co-operation of some of his employees as to the best way of doing or developing certain jobs of work. At the time when he was lord of the manor of Boscastle, he also owned practically all of Delabole quarry. He, on one occasion, called certain men who were workers at the quarry in conference as to how to work certain parts of the quarry to the best advantage. Some of the men said that he, being the owner, would be the best judge, whereupon he said “I have asked you to give me your judgement. That is why I have asked you, I can still think for myself and come to my conclusion.” He was an outstanding man of business but he was known as a notorious wrecker of ships and a receiver of contraband goods. This it seems was one of his pastimes or hobbies. He carried on shipbuilding and his ships that were built down beside the harbour were some of the fastest sailing ships of those days There is a story told how, on one occasion, he was at watch at Willapark at the lookout house there, which he had built. He was expecting to see one of his ships when a man came along with whom he was not altogether pleased. He asked the man what he was there for. It is quite possible that the man said that he was at liberty to go where he liked, whereupon the old squire caught hold of the man. Then the man laid hold of the squire and said “one of us is going over the cliff and it won’t be me.” The Squire released his grip. 19 I am led to think that the man was the head of a smuggling gang. I don’t think that Avery was altogether liked or beloved by the inhabitants of the village but they were more or less somewhat afraid of him, when he was spoken of, it was “Old Avery”. They had to show a certain amount of respect to him or else he could show himself to command respect, being the lord of the manor and a magistrate, but I expect he was like many others; he had his good points which are not always spoken of. I well remember an old man when I came to Boscastle 51 years ago who told me that he worked for him as a boy, but I don’t recollect anything as to what he said about him, but what was pleasing during the time that he was working for him. I don’t think the squire was ever married but he was a great lover of the fair sex. Mr Avery, being a merchant, was very popular in the business world, farmers came and sold their wool and also bought many things such as coals,

19 I am not sure if this means that the man went over the cliff. 22 farm implements, shovels, prongs, rope and very many things that were needed by the farmer. Although he was such a popular man in business, it seems strange that he should lower his prestige as a gentleman by allowing himself to be associated with smuggling and wrecking of ships, which gave him a deplorable name and eventually became a scandal. I have just recently come across a cutting from a newspaper, which refers to an article written by a Mr. Jabez Brown, who became another merchant in Boscastle. The article runs as follows; In Jabez Brown’s journal dated December 27 th , 1858 is this note: T.R. Avery was buried on Christmas Day aged 74. I have recently been reading about the weather conditions at Boscastle, how strange and terrible they have been, thunder, hail, rain, storms of wind, lull and storms again and people have become very excited and have connected them, or the happenings with the death of Squire Avery, the wrecker. Now comes the outstanding part of the article; Jabez Brown returning one night from his journey saw coming up the valley a sort of bright fiery light. The sailors and fishermen who also saw it they said that it seemed to glide over the house where Mr Avery lived and from there it passed inland up the valley and on to the church where his family vault was and where he was buried. The sight of this so astonished Mr Brown that he wrote an account of it to the Times. This is another story relative to Avery. One Sunday evening Mr Avery went out on the cliffs and was seen watching the cliffs, presumably for a wreck. He returned to his home quite normal and went to bed. At about five o’clock in the morning his servants heard him walking about in his room. At six o’clock a huge wave came up the harbour and one of his ships broke loose. News of what had happened was conveyed to the servants, who went and knocked at their master’s room, but received no reply. Again they knocked, but there was still no reply, they became so frightened that they opened the door and there lay their master dead, his head resting on his hand. Here is an account of the launching of one of his ships. The following, a beautifully modelled smack (a one-masted ship) was launched at Boscastle from the yard of T. R. Avery at the harbour. She slid over the quay in a most admirable manner to the cheers of numbers of people who had come to witness the event. She was considered by the owners to be one of the fastest, or would be in the channel. This was 100 years ago (1861). Some of the names of the stores which I have been referring to. “T. R. Avery.” “Rosevear and Sloggat.” “Hawker.” “Bowerings.” Now the building has closed as a store and is known as the “Cobweb Inn “

Business Houses.

Now I will pass along to another store now known as Ward’s Stores. What I am about to relate has to do with four names who were at one time merchants. These were Hockin and Company Limited, R. Langford, Jabez Brown and Ward and Sons. The present occupier Mrs Ward is the daughter-in-law of Mr Ward. Hockin and Company Limited were farmers’ ironmongers and provided most things that a farmer needed. These included coals, paints, brushes, cloam ovens, shovels, prongs, rope, horse halters and very many other requisites. The company were quite up to date and very businesslike in their transactions. The management was outstanding; the workers had to be thorough in all that was done. I don’t think that fines were imposed, but the rules had to be strictly adhered to. One, punctuality, polite attention and agreeable manners are of great value and should be carefully cultivated in order that every customer may receive the best attention. Two, do everything in its proper time. Three, waste nothing, especially time, as time is money, and avoid chattering to one another about things that do not concern you. Four, in everything, or measuring articles, you must be just, but need not be liberal. Five, avoid sending customers into the warehouse without accompanying them. Six, when requiring to purchase goods for yourself, let another leave you to pay him the money. Seven, do not borrow or lend anything without the consent of the manager. Eight, anyone delivering goods and not entering them will be held responsible for their value. Nine, waggoners returning with empty carts are expected to dismount before entering the yard. Ten, Nothing is troublesome that you do willingly. Eleven, no fines are needed to enforce these rules, because violation of them is understood to be sufficient indication that the person so doing does not desire to remain connected with the Establishment. Twelve, no smoking in the stables, horses to leave the stables at eight o’clock, hours of business 8 to 6, closed bank holidays.

Hocking and co. have a well deserved name, very popular, management outstanding, and heads of the firm well liked, and I think that I am right in assuming that their customers cover a very wide area.

R. Langford, Merchant I have no information as to when Hocking gave up the store but the next to take over was R. Langford. The store was carried on much the same as before, but whether so extensively I don’t know. I have not much to relate as far as the business was concerned, the same class of stock more or less was sold, and I should imagine that he was a man well liked by the general public. I cannot say what the number of his staff was, but I had in my possession for a while a book 24 of rules relative to the four clerks that slept on the premises. The rules were as follows, that no one who slept on the premises should be out after 10 o’clock or if by force of circumstance such should happen, the book should be signed. How long Mr Langford carried on the business I cannot say, but from historical accounts I have gathered that T. R. Avery made things very awkward for him. This was not only in business but also over some land and footpaths etc. Some time ago I had the opportunity of reading some documents relative to law proceedings at the time, but I did not consider it interesting enough to include any of the writings in this book. Eventually Mr. Langford gave up the business and left Boscastle, and Mr. Jabez Brown took over the business which was carried on very much the same, the sale of goods much the same and following him was Mr Ward or Ward and sons.

Ward and Sons Messrs. Ward and Sons carried on the business for a number of years but perhaps not on such an extensive scale as those before. I don’t remember more than four men working on the premises. When Mr. Ward senior passed away, Mrs. Ward his daughter-in-law discontinued all the ironmongery and other lines with the exception of the Grocery. There were some old buildings adjoining Ward’s Stores, which were used, one for a candle factory and the other building where hops were prepared for making beer. The candle factory building has been demolished. Whether these places were connected with Ward’s Stores I have nothing to record. The reputation of Ward and Sons has always stood high in the estimation of all who did business with them.

Burnard’s Stores

Postcard of Boscastle showing the original façade of Burnard’s Stores (third building on left).

Now I have come to what is now known as Burnard’s Stores, a place that, I should imagine, has a remarkable history. I have not been able to ascertain any date as to when this business house came into being, no particular date when it was opened, nor the original name of it. It may have been a company concern with quite a number of workers. 20 Here is an extract, which appeared in the Cornish and Devon Post 1861.

Boscastle Cornwall. Important Drapers and Grocers. An old established Drapery and Grocery business to be sold by private contract with immediate posession, situated at Boscastle Bridge. This business was carried on by Messrs. Langford and Reed, now of Plymouth, and has been conducted very prosperously for the last six years by Mr Richard Burnard deceased, whose executors now invite tenders. The business affords an opportunity rarely met with and opens many advantages to capitalists.

20 See Knight and Knight 2004, 81-83 for further information. A small correction to this information is that William Francis Allen Burnard was born in Trewarmett and not Newquay, but lived there before coming to Boscastle. It was Daniel T. Ferrett who suggested to him that he took up the saddlery business in Boscastle. I am still in the process of unraveling the genealogy of the Ferrett family, but I believe that Daniel Ferrett, was the father of both Daniel T and Tryphena. This will be covered fully in the next book by WFB, which deals with his life in Newquay and Boscastle. This is due for publication later in 2007. 26

Burnard’s Stores staff, date unknown. I have no information to relate as to whether this Burnard has any connection with the present Burnard. 21 Here are some of the names of business men connected with the stores. Reynolds. R. Couch. E. Couch. D.T. Ferrett and Son, and the present occupier S.E. Burnard. 22 The business still has a very high reputation and has a staff who have heart and soul in their work. There is in connection with this store a Branch shop at Harbour road which has a good summer trade and a large assortment of fancy goods and bellows, made on the premises. 23

22 Stan Burnard as some in Boscastle will best remember him. 23 Burnards Stores was adjacent to Bridge House and is now converted to flats (Hollowell House). The Branch Shop was still there up to 2004 but had been rebuilt. It was totally destroyed in the 2004 floods. It was near the lawn of Valency House and when this book was written it was occupied by the author. This shop was originally my Great grandfather’s saddlery. Anne Higgs, with whom I spoke in December 2006, still has a pair of the bellows in her possession. 27

Burnard’s Branch Store circa 1920 the Author in doorway. 24 Reproduced below is an extract from “The Grocer “, which gives an account of how this store is run and the management. Cornish businessmen can compete with any town establishment and this is not in any way exaggerated, according to the following report.

Extract from “The Grocer,” dated Aug. 27 th , 1949.

A Cornish Departmental Store.

SIR,- I am just coming to the end of a pleasant holiday at Boscastle, North Cornwall. Having been a private grocer myself, I have come across in this little village one of the most amazing private shops I have ever seen.

This was Burnard’s Stores, at which one could purchase groceries and almost everything else including fancy goods, hardware, drapery, boots and shoes and even radio and electrical goods.

The grocery department was well stocked, clean and well laid out and did not appear to be short of anything. I called at the shop each day and the place was always busy. The thing that I noticed the most was the courtesy and the personal attention given by the assistants to everyone who came in, and there seemed to be a wonderful spirit of friendship between the proprietor and the assistants-just like a happy family.

24 The saddlery business was no longer carried on at the premises by this time, except for the manufacture of the bellows mentioned above. 28

I had a short talk with the proprietor one morning and he told me that this spirit always exists between them all, and to the customers, and he considered this goes a long way towards making the business run smoothly.

To compete against a store of this kind in a village must, I should think, be a problem. To sum it all up, I agree with another holiday-maker whom I met when he said it was an Oxford- street store in a Cornish village.

Whilst we have private traders of this class we need not worry about the chain-stores.- Yours, etc.

J.M. BURROWS. Lavender Hill S.W.

The Bridge Part of the Village.

The schools have sent out boys and girls of outstanding capabilities, capable of taking responsible positions. Boscastle still holds its reputation of being the prettiest village in the county, there is something that lures visitors to come year after year and still they love the place with its unspoilt beauty, the valley and its rugged cliffs and harbour. The oldest Public house in the bridge part of the village was the Ship Inn, which was closed about 40 years ago. The Cobweb Inn, which was formerly connected with a large farmers ironmongery store, was founded in 1795 and is the next oldest. The Wellington Hotel was probably built about a century ago or thereabouts.25 This Hotel was the terminus for a four-horse coach that ran from Bude during the summer months. The trip from Bude was much enjoyed by all who availed themselves of the opportunity of such travelling conditions, the clatter of the horses’ hooves, and the sound of the conductor’s horn, the driver with his top hat and long whip and four reins with couplings. All these things added to the pleasantness and interest of the journey. The business houses in the bridge part of the village are as follows, Ward’s Stores. Burnard’s Stores, Grocer, Draper and Fancy Goods, Branch Shop Harbour Road. Messrs. Turner and Son, the Garage, wireless and TV, Webber, fancy shop or gift store and Pixie shop, Misses Beadon, the Riverside Café, Procter, the Old Forge, Mrs Piper, Harbour road Café, Goods, the Antique Shop,

25 Probably much older. 16 th Century in parts, according to the hotel website. 29

The Museum, A. Olde, Carpenter, The Harbour, fishing and pleasure boats during the summer months.

Probably the first cottages to be built at the Bridge were what is now known as Valency House and those that follow. What followed Valency House was a brewhouse and the Ship Inn, all of this has been reconditioned, then there are three other cottages. Valency House was a one-time manor house where Squire Avery lived, who owned the manor of Boscastle In one room of this house was a place where Avery, who was a receiver of contraband or smuggled goods, kept his store. I should just like to say at this point of my story that here, before there were any houses built, that the river flowed just anywhere, just a wide stream. It had its course down through where the present manor house, Burnard’s Stores, Turner’s Garage, Webber’s gift shop, through what is now Valency Lawn, where once the river flowed and probably across on the other side. When I lived at Valency House, I dug down about two feet and came across washed gravel and larger stones, all going to prove that the river flowed through these parts that I have mentioned. In connection with an old house that was demolished when the new bridge was built. This particular house when it was built was almost down level where the stream passed along, and I am led to believe that in all probability this house was built before the construction of the (original) bridge. As the river at this point was shallow and as far as pedestrians were concerned, perhaps stepping stones were fixed here and there and, failing this, a raised bridge, two or three planks in width. Horse conveyances, such as carts or wagons could pass through without hindrance, unless there had been flooding. What I am referring to and assuming is what was done by people centuries ago. When the village became an important shipping place, it was just at that time when the river was built in just as it is at the present time. I well remember an old man who said that he could recall when what is now called the New Road was made and opened. The first vehicle that came along was a sort of wagon drawn by two oxen. Oxen were worked by quite a number of farmers a hundred years ago or more, for ploughing, harrowing and rolling. Some farmers kept as many as twelve oxen. Now, whilst we are thinking of events and happenings at the lower part of the village, we might think what went on at the office where quite a number of clerks were employed. In one of the rooms, in connection with the office, certain meetings were held and one of the outstanding gatherings was the Court Leet.

The Court Leet An old Seventeenth Century dictionary defines this as a “court ordained for the punishment of offences under the High Treason Act against the Crown. The 30 last of these courts was held in Boscastle about thirty years ago. I was a member of the court for a number of years. These meetings are still held in some of the older towns. The following is a report of the annual meeting held at Holsworthy, which is an ancient manor estate. It was held in the Town hall on the eve of Saint Peter’s Fair and was presided over by the newly-appointed Portreeve, who would hold the office for three years. Before the business proceeded, the ex-Portreeve invested the new Portreeve with the age-old collar and badge. The new Portreeve said, in reply, that he would like to express his thanks to the Court Leet and the lords of the manor in electing him to the office. He would endeavour, to the best of his ability, to maintain the traditions attached to the appointment. He then congratulated the ex-Portreeve on the way that his duties had been carried out It had been expressed that the Keeper of the records and the Beadle should wear the appropriate costumes and that the Portreeve should always wear the beautiful Portreeve’s jewel. It seems that the Court Leet was connected to a certain extent with the opening of St Peters’s Fair as part of the old customs. At eight o’clock on the Wednesday, the Portreeve, accompanied by members of the Court Leet and the councillors as Lords of the Manor, assembled in Stanhope Square. The town crier stood on the stone, which now marks the spot where the great tree of Holsworthy formerly stood and read the ancient proclamation of the fair. This was followed by a speech by the Portreeve, who said that every time he heard the proclamation read, he thought of the past, when the great elm tree stood in silent witness to this traditional ceremony, of which Holsworthy is so very proud. Many things were referred to in the speech, including “but on this St Peters Fair morning, let us all rejoice and be proud to be citizens of this old and ancient town of Holsworthy”. He also declared, on behalf of the Court Leet and the Lords of the Manor, that he wished everyone a very happy time during the Fair and and a year of prosperity. The office of Portreeve is little more than honorary now but still, on the night of his inauguration, he gives a good supper to his electors who light him home to his residence at the close of the entertainment.

Boscastle Harbour The Harbour of Boscastle is of ancient construction, for there is on record that it was repaired by the inhabitants in 1584. 26

26 In Lake (1870, Vol III, 364) it is mentioned that the breakwater was built in 1740 by Cotton Amy esq. See Knight and Knight 2004, 39-40. 31

In the days when ships entered the harbour it was fairly safe for ships to enter in calm weather, provided the vessel was small and answered the helm quickly. If, however, there was a westerly or north-westerly gale there was no hope, for the entrance of the harbour would be a seething cauldron, waves lashing themselves against the confining rocks and them against each other, as in savage impatience at their inability to widen the passage.

The Juggernaut

Sketch of the “Juggernaut” by the Author. Now to return to the shipping days of Boscastle, when cargoes were brought from various ports. Large cargoes of coals were shipped and stored and large quantities taken away. Here is a story from 96 years ago of an early traction engine as they were called in those days. It plied between Trebursye iron mine, Launceston and Boscastle in 1862. It gives Boscastle its niche in history as being the first place served by a mechanical haulage system. 27 It was built by a firm called Taplins of Lincoln and was brought to Tavistock by rail, where it was assembled and brought by road to Launceston. Due to piston trouble, the road journey took three and a half days. It arrived at Trebursye mine on Saturday afternoon and on that day and Sunday it was visited by hundreds of people who came out of great curiosity. The engine drew two iron trucks capable of carrying ten tons each. The front wheels were five feet high and the back wheels eight feet, the width of the wheels twelve to fourteen inches.

27 This may not be correct. It could be argued that this had been done by Cugnot in the Eighteenth Century. 32

The work of the mine was suspended for a while, waiting for the arrival of the engine to take a quantity of ore to Boscastle, where it would eventually be taken away by ships. On its return journey it had to bring coals. The engine’s first journey was to Boscastle, where it arrived on the Friday, but carried no ore on that trip. Progress was slow, due to the disordered state of the Machinery. The engine was brought back to Trebursye and appears to have been laid up for repairs for several months. On August the 20 th it was again put on the road with 14 tons of ore in two wagons for Boscastle for shipment. On its return journey it left Boscastle with nine tons of coal, a crowd of people were present to witness the departure. It started successfully and went up the hill out of the village slowly and steadily. After it had gone a few miles, something happened; one of the wheels seemed to slide into the side of the road. The men in charge were able to remedy the fault and progress was made again, but not for long. This time there was a fault in the machinery and the engine had to remain on the roadside for a considerable time. Contact had to be made with the engineers and the engine was on the road again in the middle of October. It regularly made three trips a week to Boscastle with 20 tons of ore, returning with a quantity of coals. The engine was not at all popular with the general public, as it did not seem to be suitable for the roads of those days. The surface of the roads was not hard enough for such a mass of iron, the weight and the number of journeys. The people in the village called it a “mass of iron” or “a monster”. It had broken up a great number of the coverings of the watercourses, which were just thick stones and not at all suitable for such a mass of machinery. By its frequent breakdowns, it often blocked the roads, and it was very difficult to pass with any horses especially if they were at all spirited. Sparks and clouds of black smoke came from its funnel or chimney, which was a risk to stacks of corn and hay, hedges were set on fire and there was also a report that a man from St Juliot had his shirt caught on fire, In brief, the engine was considered to be a nuisance and it was named “The Juggernaut” by the locals.

The Manor and Borough of Bottreaux Castle, alias Boscastle

This is a very old historical account of the village. The story goes on to speak of the village as beautifully situated in a most wild and picturesque valley, the steep sides of which, especially those on the east, are crowned with craggy tors. From the high lands, magnificent sea views may be obtained. Lundy Island in fair weather may be distinctly seen, and there is a weather proverb.

“When Lundy is high it will be dry. When Lundy is plain it will be rain. When Lundy is low it will be snow.”

How the Village Received its Name

The place derives its name from Bottreaux Castle, once the old baronial; residence of the ancient family of Bottreaux , who held 12 knights fees in the county. The site of the castle still exists, partially covered with buildings and is now called “Jordans”, perhaps a corruption of “Jardin” from the castle garden. It is situated on the sharp spur of a hill at the junction of two valleys. On the lower or northern side, the sites of the outer and inner wall are still distinguishable. They were of a circular form and are marked by the mounds of rubbish from which ashlar stones have, from time to time, been removed for building purposes. The defence on this side must have been strong, but what protection existed on the other sides is not easy now to discern, the site being occupied by cottages and gardens. We apprehend, however that the castle could never have offered much resistance to an enemy, being commanded by higher ground on three sides. On the western and southern sides of the castle are clustered the houses forming the village, built undoubtedly by the retainers and vassals of the lord and others who sought his protection. In the sixth year of the reign of King John, William de Boterel was granted a market at Talkarn on Wednesday in every week, providing it did no damage to the neighbouring merchants, and in the twelfth year of the reign of Edward the first 1284, William de Boterous was presented at the Assises at Launceston before the justices itinerant for claiming to have a fair in his manor of Boterel Castle on the vigil, on the day and on the morrow of the day of St Martin. Assire of bread and beer, view of frank pledge and waif. William appeared and shewed that he and his ancestors had used the liberties in question time out of mind, and that he had nothing usurped of the lord the King. In the thirtieth year of the same king, William de Boterous was summoned to answer to the Lord the King before the Justices at Launceston, inter alia, by what warrant he claimed to have the correcting the assire of bread and beer broken and fair, and hue and cry raised in his manor of Boerel’s Castle, and it was again shown that the said liberties had been used by William and his ancestors time out of mind. In the sixth year of Edward the second, 1312, William son of William de Botereaux had a charter dated the sixteenth of August granting to him and his heirs for ever, a market every week on Wednesday at his manor of Castel Boterel, and a fair there every year to last three days, viz, on the eve, that day and the morrow of St James the Apostle, providing no injury accrued thereby to the neighbouring markets and fairs. These fairs have continued to the present time, except that they are limited to two days. The market became changed to Saturdays and eventually dwindled away. The market house, which was situated on the west side of high Street, fell into bad repair and was eventually taken down. By the side of the road leading from Barn Park to Forrabury Church is a stone trough, now used as a water container, which very closely resembles the old stone corn measure, which was used in the old Market house at Bodmin. It has the same kind of opening and lip at the bottom, although destitute of the hooks which the Bodmin measure possesses and also of the “strike”28 arrangements. It is between 21 and 22 inches in diameter and 12 inches deep, and in capacity will contain 16 gallons or two Winchester bushels. 29 There is a tradition that it was used as a measure in the castle, whence it was brought, but it is more probable that it formed the standard measure in the old Market House. It was found upon an inquisition taken at Launceston on the 21 st of September 1395 after the death of William de Botreaux, his father, on the 17 th of November in the 14 th year of Richard II (1390) by his charter gave and granted, inter alia, the manors of Worthevale and

28 Uncertain word. 29 This is now removed to the War Memorial. 34

Botreaux to Ralph, Bishop of Bath and Wells, William de Botreaux his son, by the name of William de Botreaux, Chivaler, the younger, and others, in trust, for the payment of the debts of the said William the Father, and afterwards to revert to the said William the son. The jury found that William the father died on January the 3rd in the 15 th year of Richard the second (1391-1392) and that William de Botreaux the son died on the 25 th of may then last (1395) past, and that William de Botreaux, of the age of 5 years and more, was son and nearest heir Elizabeth de Botreaux, widow of the above-mentioned William the younger, by charter dated the 20 th of February, in the twentieth year of Richard II (1396-1397) was granted the custody of the lands and manors of which the said William died siezed, inter alia, of the manors of Worthevale and Botreaux Castle , during the minority of William, son and heir of the said William. Also, in 1398, by charter dated the 8 th of February, the King confirmed to the said Elizabeth upon inspeximus, the charter of his great grandfather, granting the market and fairs at Botreaux Castle. In the second year of Henry IV (1401), Robert Rodyngton, warden of the Fees of Henry, Prince of Wales and Duke of Cornwall belonging to the Castle of Launceston &c, returned that he had nothing to account for the lands of which William de Botreaux died siezed, because King Richard II had granted custody of the said lands to Lady Elizabeth Botreaux to hold unto the full age of the heir of the said William for a certain sum, which is charged in the accounts of the Sheriff. On the 15 th of May 1462, William, Lord de Botreaux, died siezed inter alia , of the manors of Botreaux Castle and Worthevale with the hamlets parcel of the said manors, together with the advowson of the church of Minster, alias Tolcarn, and the jury, on the inquisition taken after his death, found that he held the said manor of Botreaux Castle of the King in capite as of the Duchy of Cornwall by the service of half a knight’s fee, and the value of it per annum , beyond reprises, was 10 pounds, and that he held the manor of Worthevale in the same manner, by the service of the fourth part of a Knight’s fee and the value thereof, per annum, beyond reprises, was 100 shillings. They also found that Margaret, who was the wife of Sir Robert Hungerford, Knight deceased, was the daughter and nearest heir of the said William Botreaux, and she was of the age of forty years and upwards. There are writers who give a description of the village up to the end of Queen Elizabeth, and it seems clear from their accounts that the castle no longer existed then, and it had probably been allowed to get into a state of disrepair, decay and ruin after the extinction in the male line of the race of its founders. Norden wrote after the alienation of the Manor and Borough to John Hender, which took place in 1575. As he did not mention the Manor or Mansion house, we may safely conclude that it did not then exist, and that it was erected by John Hender, who seated himself here subsequently. In a deed dated August 10 th of the fifth year of James I (1607) by which John Hender, described as “of Botreaux Castle Esquire” in pursuance of the marriage settlement of his daughter Elizabeth with William Cotton, conveys to certain trustees therein named, “all that Capital message and Mansion house of Botreaux Castle wherein the said John Hender now dwelleth”. In another deed dated the 6 th of June in the 9 th year of James I, is also mentioned specifically, “all that Mansion house called Botreaux Castle”. This mansion house was situated on the west side of the High Street, or hill, leading through the village and the site was cut through in making the New Road. Some few remains still exist, which show that it was built in the Tudor style of architecture. It was occasionally (occupied?) by Sir Johnathan Phillips, who died in 1798. Lysons 30 , writing about 1812, says

30 Presumably Lysons, Daniel and Samuel. Topographical and historical account of the county of Cornwall; Cadell & Greenland, London: 1814. Volume 3 of a series of county histories called the Magna Britannia which only made it to 10 volumes. 35 that it is probable that the Castle had been taken down before Leland’s time, and he speaks of the Manor house as being then in a state of dilapidation. It was taken down and the materials sold at auction in the year 1818 by George Harman, committee of the estate of Miss Ann Amy. The stables on the opposite of the street yet remain, though in much decay. Sir John Cotton, by his will dated January 6 th 1701, bequeathed the Honour, Manor and Fee of Worthevale and the Borough of Botreaux Castle, together with the advowsons of Minster and Forrabury to Edward Amy, son of William Amy of Tintagel, and heirs and assigns forever. Thomas Rickard Avery of Boscastle, merchant, and subsequently by indentures of lease and release, dated respectively the 1 st and 2 nd of July 1824, the said Frank Francis and Catherine his wife, for the considerations therein mentioned and among others in consideration of an annuity of 130 Pounds to the said Frank Francis for life, and an annuity of 20 Pounds a year to the said Catherine for life, conveyed to the said Thomas Richard Avery all the undivided forth part of the said Honour, Manor Fee and demesne lands of Worthevale and Borough of Botreaux Castle, and all the other messuages etc, to which they were entitled, inter alia , in the parishes of Minster and Forrabury. Richard Benoke soon became involved in great pecuniary difficulties, mortgaged his interests, and eventually, by deed dated the 22 nd of February 1828, after reserving an annuity of 50 Pounds to his wife Rebecca for life, conveyed the whole to Thomas Pope Rosevear of Forrabury, merchant, and Edward Pearse of Bodmin, gent, in trust for the payments of his debts and full powers of sale. By indentures dated the 3 rd of June 1844, Richard Benoke and others conveyed the premises to Mr Thomas Rickard? Avery, who thus became possessed of the entirety of the estate. 31

The Harbour of Boscastle This account is a continuation of of the old writings that I have been referring to. The Harbour of Boscastle is within the limits of the Port of Padstow, which extends from Hartland Point on the East to Perranzabuloe in the West. The coast is exceedingly exposed and dangerous, and the harbour is very difficult of approach. The ground swell, which sometimes arises very suddenly, is most terrific. The sea rises like mountains and sweeps over the rugged cliffs which protect the Harbour’s mouth, covering the loftiest crags with foam and spray. As an additional protection, at an early period, it was found necessary to erect a breakwater or quay, but at what date there is no record. We find that there was a pier or quay here early in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and although it had been rebuilt twice before the year 1584, which had cost the inhabitants and their well wishers above 200 pounds, it had, in that year, become so much in need of repair that the people, who seem to be so dependent on the trade and shipping done that they were afraid that it would get washed down, whereupon 50 Pounds were spent on repairs. After the work was proceeded with, it was found necessary to spend another 50 Pounds to complete the work.

31 The source of this passage has not been checked but is probably Maclean, Parochial and Family History of Forrabury and Minster. 36

Some of the exports supplied by W. Sloggat Hawker, Merchant.

1820 1830 1840 1850 1860 1870 Corn 50 tons 150 tons 200 tons 50 tons 50 tons

Malt 100 tons 200 tons

Slate 50 tons 300 tons 1500 tons 1200 tons 50 tons

China clay and China stone 200 tons

Manganese 200 tons 1000 tons 180 tons

Bark 100 tons 250 tons 50 tons

Imports

1820 1830 1840 1850 1860 1870

Wine, beer and spirits. 50 60 100 140 160 250

Hardware, bricks, pottery etc. 30 40 60 100 130 150

Groceries. 30 40 60 100 150 150

Limestone. (Average throughout the period of years as above, 500 tons each year, little variation}.

Timber Nil 400 1000 1500 500 200

Iron 20 30 50 70 100 130

Agricultural: draining tiles Nil Nil Nil Nil 30 80

Manures Nil 30 500 500 300 300

Corn Nil 30 500 500 300 300

A malting business was carried on by T.R Avery, but was closed down after hid death. A number of quarries were worked.

The Rector of Forrabury

Forrabury Church This benefice was valued at 20 shillings at the time of Pope Nicholas’ taxation, as it was under the valuation of the Bishops of Lincoln and Winchester in 1294. This was also the case at the levying of the ninth sheaf, the ninth fleece and the ninth lamb in 15 th Edward III (1341), which were sold to John Hore, Peter Rycheman and John Glovere. At Wolsey’s valuation in 1535 32 it was rated at 4 pounds, 12 shillings and sixpence, at which it now stands in the kings books. There are in the parish 326 acres of titheable land, namely, arable 270 acres, 3 roods, 6 perches, meadow, 6 acres 3 roods 39 perches, common 39 acres 2 perches and glebe, 9 acres 15 perches. In 1839 the tithes were commuted at 62 pounds 10 shillings per annum, exclusive of 2 pounds 10 shillings per annum chargeable on the glebe when not in the manurance of the Rector. An interesting description of the glebe and rectory is preserved in certain terriers33 preserved in the Bishop’s Registry. It is singular that, in the earlier documents, the glebe lands are described as bounded on the north side by the King’ highway, whereas now the rectory house, gardens etc are situated on the south of the highway. We can only account for this discrepancy upon the theory that the road has been diverted, though it is not easy to understand why this was done. The advowson of the Church anciently belonged to the Boterell family and, together with the churches of Knowstone and Molland, Co Devon, with the lands, tithes and fisheries and all their other appurtenances, were granted by William de Boterell to the Abbey of Hartland, which gift was confirmed by the charter of King Richard I. The Church of Forrabury remained vested to the Abbot and convent of Hartland until the dissolution of the monasteries.

32 Hals (quoted in Polsue 1868, 11) gives the date as 1521 33 A terrier was a book recording land details or the details of vassals or tenants. 38

The old rectory at Forrabury was a very ancient building, and, as described in the terrier of 1679, of small extent. It is said to have been enlarged in 1711 by the Reverend James Amy, then rector. Soon after the induction of the present rector, it was removed and the present convenient parsonage erected on the site. 34

The Chapels of Boscastle

Whilst I am writing about church history, I will continue with the origins of the Chapels of Boscastle. They were known after the reformation as Meeting Houses of Dissenters. Bible Christians . This sect, known as Bryanites, began in Boscastle in the month of December 1817. For 40 years, they held their preaching services and prayer meetings in private houses. After a number of years, they eventually built a meeting house at the top of the village, where the building still stands. It was closed on the event of the amalgamation of the Methodist Union. After the building was erected, it had accommodation for 120 people. The building was under the management of trustees. The members of the society at the time numbered 20, the Sunday School, 40 children.

Wesleyans The Wesleyans had a meeting house in the Parish of Forrabury, which was vested in Samuel Wills, Jabez Brown, Ralph Wade and others as trustees. The building could accommodate 250 people and there were 20 registered members of the society.

United Methodist Free Church According to prevailing tradition in Boscastle, affirmed by the old inhabitants who remember the circumstances, the meeting house was originally erected by Mr Rosevere of Camelford, who was one of the founders of Rosevere and Sloggat, merchants of this place. This was done as a votive offering to commemorate the escape of a vessel belonging to his firm, laden with a valuable cargo. The ship was chased by a French privateer and eluded her pursuers by unexpectedly dropping into Boscastle harbour, the entrance of which can scarcely be distinguishable at sea. Mr Rosevere appropriated it as a free gift to the Wesleyan connection of which he was a member, the accommodation being totally without payment. In 1823, Mr Thomas Pope Rosevere, son of the last named gentleman, on the account of the insufficiency of the accommodation in the original building, pulled it down and rebuilt it on the same site on an enlarged scale. The new building was opened in 1825, when differences arose in the Wesleyan

34 Source unknown 39 conference on certain matters concerning the new association, at first called the Wesleyan Methodist Association, but afterwards, as now, the United Methodist Free Church. This last body has been allowed to use this building ever since, subject, however to the payment of certain seal rents. The chapel will accommodate 400 persons and there are now (in 1872) 49 registered members of the association attached to it 35 . Now I would like to refer to what one of the oldest members many years ago related to me about the origin of the chapel and his version of what happened. It was built, as I have said before, by a Mr Rosevere, at the time a well known merchant in Boscastle and a ship owner. The origin of the chapel was due to very significant and extraordinary circumstances. One of Mr Rosevere’s ships had been chased by a French privateer and was in danger of becoming a prize of war. This nation and France were in a state of war at the time and, by what might be termed a miracle of Providence, the crew and ship were saved. Mr Rosevere was so overjoyed at the time that he decided to build the chapel as a thank offering to the Lord. (This story was told to me by Mr William Gard and, as I have said before, he was an old member of the chapel). As the ship was being chased, somehow, by a strange coincidence, the ship got inside the Meachard Rock and was obscured from the French ship. The commander or captain of the privateer ordered a boat to be lowered in order to locate where their would-be prize of war had disappeared so quickly. As they were getting near the rock, they spotted, along the coast on what is called Willa Park, a red line which they thought was part of the British Army. Their boat was signalled to return to the ship, which eventually made off again. What was supposed to be a contingent of the army, with their scarlet jackets, was a number of noble and very brave women had put on their red shawls, a garment that was fashionable in those days, and scared away the French sailors. Now, this may seem a somewhat exaggerated and strange kind of story to the reader, but I have related it as it was told to me by Mr Gard, who said that his grandmother was one of the courageous women. I have heard my mother speak about Boscastle women frightening away the French, which was an old saying in her day. She was in possession of a red shawl, which was fashionable in her days. The story that I have related is connected with the origin of the chapel, but Mr Rosevere did not give anymore information, other than the ship eluding her pursuers by disappearing from inside the Meachard Rock. The building did not originally have a tower part, this was added sometime later. The chapel as it stands now is a very nice building, as a matter of fact there is not a building like it in the whole Wadebridge circuit. Its beauty is not confined to its external appearance. There is that relative to its interior that tones and blends, and there is nothing that mars its restfulness to those who enter for

35 This information must have come from an unacknowledged older source. 40 worship, and the old time spirit is still in the midst, so much so that there is no debt on the premises or building. Many years ago, there was a debt that had been allowed to go on for a period of years. The money that had been spent for renovations, which amounted to 850 pounds, but this had gradually been reduced to 175 pounds. The worthy worshippers received a challenge at the time, that if half of the amount which was owing could be got within six months, an anonymous donor would give the other half. The money was only to be obtained by free will offerings, no rallies, no concerts etc. One hundred pounds was given by members and associates within the six months, so the kind donor paid the other 75. There is little doubt that the cause, as one finds it, receives much of its inspiration and strength from the traditions which have been handed down from the past, Sunday after Sunday, by the faithful preachers and workers of the old days. The preachers would walk miles to come to Boscastle in order to deliver their message to the people who assembled together for worship at the Chapel, to set alight in the hearts and minds of others the flame of faith and zeal which they themselves possessed. And today there is still, in the hearts and minds of the brethren who go forth Sunday after Sunday, that same zealousness and enthusiasm, to keep the same spirit and fire of the Holy Spirit, which they, in their day, so wisely kindled. Today the brethren go from place to place under better conditions than having to walk the journey, or the open horse conveyance used in those days but the same love of service still prevails. Boscastle has sent forth from the Methodist Church many men, stalwarts of faith. Some have become ministers and lay preachers but all, having found that “peace which passeth understanding”, have sought to instil it into other minds by the help and spirit of Almighty God. All, in their time, have tried to leave an impressiveness which should tend to raise the standard of humanity. There are still those who go forth today with that same motive in view.

In Forrabury Churchyard On a cenotaph within iron railings, the following is engraved;

Under this monument is the grave of Thomas Pope Roseveare of this Parish, who died the 17 th of December 1853, aged 72 years.

Minster Church and Priory

Minster Church Talkarn, alias Talkarne, alias Minster Priory. In a most romantic and lovely part of the valley through which the small river Valency passes before emptying itself into the sea at Boscastle, there was anciently a cell of the alien Priory of St Sergius of Anjou. The site is marked by the parish church, though not a fragment of the Priory now exists. It was founded by William, son of Nicholas (Boterel of Botreaux) who, for the good of his own soul and the souls of his ancestors, with pious devotion granted the church of St Merthiane of La Minster, with its appurtenances and the land called Kennegi and Trelay, to God and the monks of St Sergius of Anjou, there serving God forever, in pure alms. He also granted the same monks his manor of Polefant with its appurtenances, except royal service, which it was provided the monks should pay to him and his heirs. He also granted to them the moiety of the tithes of the demesne lands of Wolvedeston, Trefoward, Tredawell, Trevaga and Holewode in pure alms. The granter was probably William de Boterel who married Alice Corbel. This charter was confirmed by Henry Marshall, Bishop of Exeter, 1194-1206. William de Botreaux, grandson of the former mentioned for the love of God and the good of his soul, confirmed to God and to the church of St Merthiane and the monks there serving god, for ever, the grant of his ancestors, William son of Nicholas and Aufre son Ruald, and his charter. He describes the boundaries of the land called Kennegi and Trelay, such boundaries being as the rivulet flows from Nadderwell and meets the crossway (bivis ) and so from Nadderwell as the foss extends to the earthwork( vallum ) as far as the well of Helem 36 , and thence as the earthwork projects as far as Nunnewell. He also provided that if the monks should choose to use his mill they should grind after the corn which should be in the hopper

36 The H is not certain here 42

(trimodio ) and render so much as is accustomed, but if they are willing to wait their turn they may grind without any custom. 37 He also granted them common pannage 38 in his wood and common of pasture for the monks and their men with grantor’s men when they should be together, and all necessary fuel from grantor’s turbary 39 (blestario ) whenever they will.

Priors of Talkarn alias Minster 40 1263, 7 th Kalends of September. Friar Geoffrey 41 de Swanage was instituted to the government of the Priory of Talchar on the presentation of Reginald de Botreaux and Brother Geoffrey of the Priory of Thiwardratt (Tywardreath) Procurators of the Abbot and convent of Anjou. 1266, Vigil of Easter, Robert de Stormy 42 , Sub Deacon, was admitted to the Church of Minster upon the presentation of Sir John Bowon. Robert de Stormy occurs as Prior in an agreement made after the feast of St Gregory the Pope (March 9 th ) 1289 with William de Botreaux respecting a mill in Trelaye. Philip 43 , he was licensed to go abroad on April 2 nd 1311, but on the positive condition of returning to his post at the ensuing Pentecost. 1313, February 26 th , Richard Portel. 1323, William Bouges, monk of St Sergius in Anjou, was collated to the Priory of Talkarn, otherwise Minster. 1335, Gehol (or Joel) de Perrer was instituted on October 7 th . 1341, Friar William de la Hane 44 , monk of the order of Benedict and Priest, was called to the Priory, or Parish Church of Talkarn, otherwise of the Minster, vacant and in the Bishop’s collation, this turn by reason that the Abbot of the Monastery of St Sergius and Bachus, this patron had presented a Priest notoriously unworthy. 1349, July 8th , Friar William Decimarius was instituted to the priory of La Minstre, upon the presentation of the Abbot and Convent of the Monastery of S.S. Sergius and Bachus. 1375, Miletus Andree, Monk, was collated (by lapse of time) to the Priory of Minster, vacant by the death of Friar William Decimarius last Prior. 1385, January 26 th , John de Stratton, Monk of Westminster, of the order of St Benedict and Priest, was collated to the priory of the Church of the Minster, alias Talkarn. 45

37 Source unknown. 38 The right for pigs to feed on acorns, beech mast etc. 39 The right to dig turf. 40 The source of this appears to be the Episcopal registers at Exeter, as used by Polsue 1870, 362. 41 Galfridus 42 Or de Story. 43 Date of institution not given here or by Polsue. 44 Polsue gives de Huna. 45 He was probably the last. Polsue (1870, 363) notes that the priory had ceased to exist in 1407, due to the seizures made by Parliament in the reign of Henry IV. 43

The Chapel of St James the Apostle 46

There was, situated near the centre of Boscastle, a Chapel dedicated to St James the Apostle. It was a little north of the Mansion and adjoining the old Market House. It consisted of Chancel, Nave and Western tower, the tower measured about 17 feet square, and the chapel in the extreme length about 60 feet, and in the breadth about 22 feet. The date of foundation is not recorded, but there is a statement that, on the 18 th of September 1400, the bishop granted a licence for the celebration of Divine Offices therein without prejudice to the Mother Church. A similar licence was granted on the 18 th of April 1421, which was expressly directed to all the faithful of the Chapel of St James the Apostle of Botreaux Castle, within the Parish of Minster for the celebration of the Divine offices; thus showing that it was neither a mere Chantry or Guild Chapel, but used for congregational purposes. The Comissioners of Colleges, Chapels and Chantries under the Commission of the 4 th of February, 37 th Henry VIII, 1543, certify under “Botrescastel” to “ a Chapel of St James in the seyd towne distant from the Parysh Church there iij quarters of a mile. The Parson of Mynster and his predecessors have alwaies accustomed to pay to the priest in the Chapel yearly iiij li in consideration whereof the sayd Parson hath a parcell of land called Polyfant of the yearly value of iiijli and the sayd Parson did bring in wytnesse at the survey of the premysses that Polyfant is parcell of his glebelands apperteyning to his parsonage. 47 The erle of Huntingdon is patron thereof. Ye sayd chapel is distant from the Paryshe Church iij-quarters of a myle. Nothing now remains to show its existence 48 . It is said that the Mission Hall may have been built on the spot where it originally stood. A writer named Maclean says that people recently living (in 1873) remembered being present at divine services in Saint James’ Chapel. The tower was in use as late as 1837, a woman named Matthews rang the bell there to give notice of services at Forrabury and Minster Churches. The Reverend A. G. L’Estrange, who visited Boscastle in 1864, writes that; “the very Church St James” has fallen down, and “its fair corner stones and adornments may be traced in the walls of the adjoining cottages.” As long ago as 1827, the anomalous position of Boscastle was commented on by the Reverend John Wallis, who wrote in the “Bodmin Register”; “If the old Chapel at Boscastle could be rebuilt, the Parish Churches of Minster and Forrabury might be closed. Forrabury is exposed and small, Minster low and ruinous. The population of the two Parishes is chiefly confined to Boscastle.” No action was taken as regards the Chapel, and Forrabury Church was restored in 1867. 49 Lysons’s History of Cornwall (1814) states; “In the town of Boscastle,

46 According to “WFB” the above concerning Minster and the following concerning the Chapel of St James was from old manuscripts. Some is clearly from Polsue but the origin of the rest is uncertain 47 Iiij li =£4 48 Little (1972) suggested that several features from this building may have been reused in other buildings in the village, the most notable being the arch in Gunpool lane. 49 Minster Church also underwent restoration in the mid nineteenth Century. 44 near the market place, are the remains of an old church or chapel dedicated to St James.” A record of the year 1374 50 has this expression; “Prior de Minster habet in proprius usus ecclesies de Minster and Castle Boterell.” It would seem , therefore, that they were separate parishes at the time and the tithes of both were appropriated to the Priory of Minster. After the Reformation, the tithes were appropriated to the Parish of Minster. I have given a pen sketch of what the remains of the Chapel standing in 1846 looked like.51

Beating of the Bounds

Whilst Boscastle was a Manor Estate, there was an old custom, on periodical occasions, of the beating of the bounds. A number of men, with the steward and one of the solicitors carrying sticks, and walking parts of the estate, climbing over hedges, across moorland, down valleys. For some parts of the 18 mile trip, conveyances were provided and there would be a break on the journey for an enjoyable lunch. The writer had the pleasure to be one of the number on the last beating of the bounds. 52 There was not much to report, it was just a matter of seeing things relative to the Manor Estate, hedges, gates and other essentials were kept in order and the claiming of rights of way. The journey was most exhilarating and at the end of

50 Source unknown. 51 WFB referred to this as being from an old register. Presumably, this is from the Gibbons sketch shown in Knight and Knight 2004, 30. 52 This was in 1922. A newspaper photograph from the time shows the author with Mr A. G. Norman (Deputy Steward, Mr E.W Couch (Local Agent), James Sandercock (Newmill), James Bath, F. Pearn and Masters Fred Ferrett and Frank Pearn. The copy in Knight and Knight 2004, 85 is better preserved than mine. 45 the day our appetites were well away for the enjoyment of a dinner provided at the Wellington Hotel, where there were a number of other guests of the estate as well. I think it was there that I was able to get a lot of information about what I have written.

Talk at the Council School

Some years ago, I received an invitation from the schoolmaster of the Council School at Boscastle to come and talk to the children one afternoon. For a while, I wondered what I could talk to them about to interest them. Coming into contact with the Master, I asked him if he thought that a bit of the history of Boscastle would be interesting to them. His reply was, that would be the very thing. And so, a date was fixed and, on the occasion, I found myself within the school faced by a company of smiling faces of boys and girls. After being introduced by the Master to the classes, I proceeded with my talk. I told the children that I was going to take them on an imaginary walk around the village, commencing at the lower part near the Bridge, where there were, at that time, some interesting places. The first building was the candle making works. This old building was demolished some weeks ago. There in the corner of the building stood the old cauldron or boiler where the tallow or fat was boiled, clarified and moulded into candles which, when finished, were hung to harden in bundles on pegs on the beams across the top of the room. When they were ready, the candles were sold to local shops and also to the country districts and other villages. Close to the candle manufacturing business was the old malt house where malt was prepared for alcoholic drinks. There were also three coal stores where coal brought by ships was kept in stock for the village and around country districts, quantities being sent by horse drawn carts and wagons. General cargoes were brought to the harbour at different periods for the warehouse owned in later years by Messrs Bowering and Ward and Sons. What was Bowering’s Stores is now the Cobweb Inn and what was Ward and Sons is owned by Mrs Ward as a general wholesale grocery establishment. The last ships that came to the harbour were the Francis Beddoe and the Lively, these ships discontinued their voyages during the First Great War on account of enemy action. What was originally Bowering’s Coal Stores is now a car park and garage. Of the two coal stores once owned by Ward and Sons, one was converted into a grocery store and another is now owned by Turner and Son. 53

53 This is probably the former Turner’s Garage, which was Massey’s Antique Shop and the Crystal Cave when I last lived in Boscastle. 46

Along near the Harbour was another Industry, where at the back of the building a water wheel worked to drive machinery to stamp and crush a mineral called Manganese used in the manufacture of some sort of dye. 54 Now boys and girls, if you are interested in shipbuilding, we will walk over to what was the shipbuilding yard where many ships were built. It was owned by T.R. Avery who, in his day, owned the Manor of Boscastle. The yard and the workshops were along where two cottages now stand. There are cut down places along by the cliff where the workplaces stood. The Harbour was built somewhere about the 13 th or 14 th centuries, in historic records mention is made that it was rebuilt twice and at one time the cost was 200 pounds, and in that year it became so damaged that it cost another 100 pounds to repair. The last ship that was supposed to have been built was the Myrr, or Spring-flower. There is record of the launching of a one-masted ship from the yard on the 2nd of May 1857. This is what was recorded: “A beautifully modelled smack was launched at Boscastle Harbour on Saturday from the yard owned by T. R. Avery. She slid over the slipway in a most admirable manner to the cheers of numbers of people who had come to witness the event. She is considered by the ship owners to be, or should be, next to the fastest ship afloat.” The ship that I have mentioned, called the Springflower, on occasions crossed to America for timber, which was stored on what is now a garden and further along where Burnard’s branch shop and the Rocket Apparatus house now stand. There are two large beams of wood about two feet square and 16 or 17 feet long in a building at the back of Burnard’s Stores which were, very probably, brought across by the Springflower. The wood is pitchpine. Now we will walk up to look at the place where the castle of Botreaux once stood, part of it where now stands the War Memorial. Pieces of granite were unearthed when the memorial was erected and there can still be seen a mound with half circles on the top where the castle stood. Now we have come to a place where there was a hedged in piece of ground where, in the old days, stray cattle were impounded. It was the duty of an officer of the Courtleet to watch for such cattle straying about, and, when caught, to take them to the pound, as it was named. The cattle were kept there until the owner called for them and paid the charge for their release. There is a story about two mules, whose owner’s name was Symons (he was called, by those who knew him, Penty Symons 55 ) who lived in the village and whose cattle were generally straying on the roads. On this particular occasion, the two mules had strayed and gone to Tintagel, where they were impounded. Old Penty, hearing about his mules, walked to Tintagel to collect them. When he arrived at the place where they were held securely, he asked the man in charge if he could have the mules. “If you pay the fee” said the man, “Come, come” said

54 Manganese Brown or Bronze is a dye that can be used to colour wool, silk or cotton. 55 This gentleman could be the Penetecost Symons shown living in Paradise road in the 1891 Census. 47

Old Penty “They shient gid away on the rawde aggin, if you let mah have mon without paying” (this is just as the old man talked). “Pay and then you shall have them” said the attendant. “Will ee let mah spaake to mon’ said Penty. The attendant opened the gate just a little, still waiting for payment. Penty, looking through to the mules, said “coome, coome ma deers”, whereupon the mules rose upon their hind legs and, mouths open, made a rush through the opening, frightening the attendant. They were quickly in the hands of old Penty who, just as quickly, was on the back of one and on the road to Boscastle. Now, as we proceed to the top (or near to the top) of the village, there once existed a market house, where farmers and anyone else who had something to sell brought their produce. In the old building there was fixed a granite measure which was used for measuring corn. It could contain a bushel. The corn was put in until it was full and then levelled off with a staff. Being full, that was the standard measure. The old granite measure is now and has been for many years in Potters Lane. A stream of water runs into it and any horses, cattle or bullocks passing that way could quench their thirst 56 . Now boys and girls, this brings us to the end of our imaginary journey around the village. After my talk, votes of thanks were moved, proposed and seconded by two of the older students.

Daddy Tregellas

I thought perhaps at this point and having reached so far in my story of Boscastle, I would relate a story told by S. Baring Gould MA when he was staying at Boscastle and which he states as being true. There lived in Boscastle an old seafaring man who had been one of Mr Avery’s sailors. He had held the position as Captain of some of the merchant’s ships, which had been built in the harbour. Mr Gould had given him the name of Daddy Tregellas, his real name was forgotten. 57 A widow in the village had died leaving a young daughter of eighteen, very delicate and consumptive, without home or relations. Daddy Tregellas had known the widow for a very long time and feeling great pity for the daughter, he wondered what he could do to help. After much turning the matter over in his mind, he thought that the only way in which he could help was to make a home for her and provide her with all the comforts which would be favourable to her and which she desired. The only way to do this without giving the gossips of the village something to talk about was to marry her. In course of time, he married her. When the marriage took place, the people of the village, instead of speaking disfavourably of the man’s actions, said how tender hearted he was to take such notice of the young woman. His love was just like that of a father for his daughter. How he watched her as there seemed to be no cure for her. He could see her body wasting away and he became more and more anxious as her cough seemed to be getting worse from day to day. He took her out from time to time for fresh air, wrapping her in nice clothing. The beautiful girl was his idol, his pet.

56 This is now in the War Memorial Garden. 57 There used to be a picture of Daddy Tregellas on the wall of the bar in the Wellington Hotel. It probably did not survive the 2004 floods. 48

She languished in spite of his care for her. He nursed her through her illness like a mother and nothing more could be done. He was as gentle as a woman with her. Eventually, the end came and she died, propped up in bed. This was a crushing blow for him. She was buried in Forrabury Churchyard, the light of his life seemed to be extinguished. After she had been put to rest, he would often go to the Churchyard, and from there out to the cliffs, in sunshine and in storm, quietly worrying over his loss. He spoke to no one, almost broken hearted, he thought of her as his “Pet.” Mr Avery, who owned the shipbuilding yard had, at about this time, laid down the keel of another ship in the yard at the Harbour. The old sailor, on finding out about this, became very interested as the ship was progressing and, eventually, as the ship was completed and the figurehead set up. (In the days of the old wooden ships, a captain who loved his ship would certainly have a nice figurehead fixed, very beautifully designed and the pride of the crew). The old sailor, as his eyes seemed to be centred on the design of the figure, fancied that he saw, in its tracings, the likeness of his “Pet”, his wife. “It is, it is” he said as he looked up, “it is like her,” he seemed to gasp. Mr Avery, who was not far away at the time, hearing the words of the old sailor, said “she shall be called the Pet. And so now the love which had wound itself around Daddy’s wife began to attach itself to the little ship. Every day, the old sailor was at the yard, watching the finishing touches being put to the ship. When it was nearing the time to launch the ship, Mr Avery offered the old sailor the position as Captain of the ship, knowing his capabilities and that he was competent to hold such a position. The old sailor’s joy was overflowing and when the ship was launched and was eventually ready to sail, the first voyage was to Bristol for coal. Everything went well for some considerable time. Voyages were made and cargoes brought but, up and down the Cornish coast, things are not always so favourable. There are not always calm seas and there are storms to contend with, sometimes very bad ones. On one of these voyages, the Pet had the misfortune to be caught in a North-Westerly gale as she was approaching Boscastle Harbour. There were mountainous seas and the ship was, at times, almost submerged. The coast guard who was on duty at the time looked very intently at the slow progress which the ship was making and, as she was getting nearer, he realised that it was the Pet. (Nothing could be done, communications were not then as they are in these days.) All the coastguard could do was watch her bounding perilously at the mercy of the sea, now at the summit of a huge wave, then deep in its trough, till she was lost to sight, having disappeared. That was the last seen of the Pet, she with Captain Tregellas and all on board were lost in this terrible storm. That was the last of a most noble, fearless and kind hearted man and his crew.

Boscastle men of the brave Tender, noble hearted and true, With spirits of love and willing to save Those who are in need, The weak, the destitute, the orphan, Motherless and fatherless, Daddy Tregellas, his Pets, he could not save (Lines by W. F. Burnard)

History of Forrabury and Minster Parishes

The parish of Forrabury (anciently called Ferebyre or Forbury) is bounded on the North side by the Atlantic Ocean, on the West, South West and North by Trevalga Parish and on the East and North East by Minster Parish. It embraces the Harbour of Boscastle with its quays and, in the vicinity, warehouses and stores, together with the residence of Penally House, adjoining the road to Launceston. The greater part of the village is, however, excluded, being in the Parish of Minster. On the North of Forrabury Church lies a piece of land called Forrabury Common, containing 39 acres. It extends from the Church to the Western “Black Pit” and reaching along the coast (with the exception of the headland called Willa Park Point) it forms the Western boundary of the Harbour. The upper portion or table land is divided into what are called “Stitches” or Pieces, separated by boundmarks, which pieces are held by various proprietors from Lady Day to Michaelmas, who the rest of the year stock in the Common according to their proportionate rights and interest. The hilly part, however, some of which is very precipitous and, from its steepness, unfit for cultivation, is stocked with common use throughout the year. The occupiers or proprietors of this common do not pay any chief or quit rent to the Lord of the Manor of Botreaux Castle or otherwise. The Parish of Minster (anciently called Talkarn) is of very irregular form. It is bounded on the North by the Parish of Forrabury, a small piece of sea coast and the Parish of St Juliot, into which later parish it pushes a small tongue of land. It is bounded on the East by the Parishes of Lesnewth and Davidstow, on the South by Lanteglos and on the West by St.Teath, Advent, Tintagel, Tevalga and Forrabury. It contains altogether, by measurement, 3,322 acres and 23 perches, of which 56 acres and 25 perches are glebe and 65 acres, 3 roods and 10 perches roads and wastes. In geological structure, these two parishes vary. In an almost straight line extending from Lesnewth Church, passing a quarter of a mile north of Minster church, and close on the south of the church at Forrabury, to the Western Black Pit is a distinct line of demarcation between the Carbonaceous and the Altered Devonian Series. This is very remarkable near Forrabury Church, where the ledges of rock of the former strata overlie the latter and “bassel”, or crop out in great ridges in the side of the hill, dipping northward at an angle of 20 degrees. Very little of Minster falls within the Carbonaceous Series, but Forrabury is divided into about equal portions. The soil is generally good but more suitable for pasture than the growth of corn. The approximate population of the parish of Minster in the year 1377 was 75 and that of Botreaux Village was somewhere about 181. 50

Years later 58 , the chief landowners were, in Forrabury, Miss Hellyer, Messrs Rosevere and Hawker, and in Minster, the same three people together with Richard Spry. There are now no mines or quarries in operation, and no other industry other than the cultivation of the soil. The rate of wages then varied from 10 to 12 shillings per week without other privileges or advantages. The population and numbers of inhabited and uninhabited houses in the two parishes are shown below, as drawn from census returns.

Years Forrabury 1801 1811 1821 1831 1841 1851 1861 1871

Population 140 212 223 358 354 379 366 360

Inhabited houses 33 44 68 77 80 83 83 90

Uninhabited houses 5 0 1 1 2 9 16 6

Minster

Population 311 396 425 497 573 479 505 479

Inhabited houses 70 74 107 117 128 129 114 108

Uninhabited houses 4 7 2 0 9 10 14 1

Forrabury Prehistoric Remains The only work of antiquity which we have been able to discover in the parishes of Forrabury or Minster 59 is a small earthwork on Willapark Point, which lies north of Forrabury Church. Willapark Point is a peninsula of high land jutting out into the sea The cliffs at every side, except the Isthmus are very high and lofty and, at some places drop perpendicularly into the sea at a height of nearly three hundred feet. The Isthmus is bounded by two cavernous bays called “Black Pits”, there are two, Large and Little, of truly awe inspiring aspect. On the Eastern side, which slightly slopes down to the terrible and absolutely awful abyss, are the remains of an earthwork consisting of what looks like a raised wall of earth with an

58 Date unknown, but presumably after 1870, as Polsue (1870, 365) gives Mrs C. C Hawker as one of the landowners in Minster. Presumably the Claudius C. Hawker shown in the 1861 census had died by then. I am waiting on the availability of the 1871 census online to see if this was the case. 59 There are others, for instance the tumuli at MR. SX113876 and SX112887 51 external ditch. It does not appear to have been finished and it is quite possible to imagine that, whilst in the course of construction, the danger that threatened at the time passed away, or the anticipated attack did not take place, and consequently the work was abandoned. There are a number of these defences on headlands up and down the Cornish coast. The small building at the top of the point is the Coastguard lookout. It was originally built by Richard Avery (known as Squire Avery) and was used by him for watching the ships that brought him contraband or smuggled goods.

The Blow Hole Many visitors watch the Blow Hole and are very fascinated to see the force of water coming through a small hole at the bottom of the cliff situated inside of Penally Point. It is best seen when the tide is low, what is known as half tide, and if the sea is rough outside the Harbour, then it will show itself at its best. There are some people in the village who will dispute the fact that there is a hole right through the cliff. Now, as a matter of fact, I can point out to the visitor where the sea goes through from the outside. Now to convince the visitor who perhaps when watching its activity, is wondering why there is such a rush out of the rock of such a volume of water and spray. This can happen when the tide is far beyond the hole, and when there are spring tides, that is when there are extremely low and high tides. The sea recedes almost level with Profile Rock or Penally Point and still the water will blow out. This goes to prove that there is a hole right through the cliff. Inside is a large cavern and when the water comes through from the outside, it strikes up against the side above the hole some feet above the exit, them with a rebound falling on the water which is still flowing toward the inside of the hole, and this is what causes the rush of water and the boom, sometimes it is a terrific bang. There is also a small blowhole on the inside of the island outside the Harbour. This can be seen when the sea is rough. Referring again to the inner Blow Hole, when you stand looking at the water coming through, first of all before the exit of the water, you can hear a dull thud and following that the blow through. Sometime in the future, it may be a matter of centuries, the Profile part will be separated from the mainland. There are marks or lines where the separation will take place. I have spent a considerable amount of time considering the lines in the cliff where the collapse will happen. It is very interesting to watch the Blow Hole when the sea is rough and at half tide when the water and spray blows almost across to the other side of the Harbour. The island outside, which I have mentioned before, is called the Meachard, and is more or less a bird sanctuary. The blow hole there has been widened by the rush of water through it. 52

Standing on the mainland and looking across, you can see the form of a figure somewhat like a tall man leaning just a little backward, with the head in a position as if it were holding a part of the cliff.

Early Christian Monuments

Standing on waste ground south of Forrabury Churchyard is the above cross. It is fixed on a base of rough stone and is about 5 feet six inches high. The shaft is one foot two inches in breadth at the base and an inch less at the neck. In 53 thickness it is eight inches. The symbol is of Greek type, less pronounced on the east than on the west face. It is not in its original site and has, at some time, been used as a gatepost as shown by the holes at the back of it. Someone by the name of Blight is supposed to have done the engraving. 60

Botreaux Family History 61 62

Boterell, alias De Botreaus, alias De Botreaux. The family of Botterell or De Botreaux, at a very early date, settled in Cornwall and gave their name to the castle which they built in the Parish of Minster or, Botreaux Castle. The family was descended from Alain Fergant, Earl of Brittany, who was created Earl of Richmond in England by William the Conqueror for his services at the battle of Hastings. In the 6 th of King Stephen, John of Hexham commends Geoffrey Boterell for his valour against the forces of the Empress Maude, in rallying his friends and grandly receiving and powerfully repelling the attack of the enemy. He describes him as the brother of Allen, Earl of Richmond. In 1137, Hamond de Boterell paid a fine of twenty pounds into the Exchequer for the farm of Bigart forest, co. Hants. We find that there were Boterell holdings in Cornwall in the time of King Henry I. In 1131 it is said that William Boterell paid, in Cornwall, 2 shillings for a pardon. 63 This is a copy from an old register. 64 The Manor was, at a very early date, parcel of the possessions of the Great Family of Botreaux or Botterel and was held by them before the time of King Richard I, when William de Boterel gave the Church of Forrabury to the Abbey of Hartland in the 33 rd Henry II, 1187.

From an Old Copy

“In connection with the Botreaux Estate. The charge of the Keye of Botreaux Castel set down by the Townssmen thereof.” For four of the skiford 65 workmen who are Keymakers appointed by Sir Richard Greynevile hath for wages 8 pence a day, and their food and drink 5 pence a day for each man. Other labourers which are only casual workers are paid 6 pence a day and provide for themselves.

60 See knight and Knight 2004, 17-18 for information on this cross and the one at Minster. 61 WFB included here his interpretation of the Botreaux family arms. Polsue (1870, 364) gave the arms as “1. Argent three toads erect sable. 2. Chequy or and gules, on a chevron (or a bend) azure three horseshoes argent. 3. A griffin sergeant gules armed azure. Crest, two branches of laurel in saltire proper. 62 See Knight and Knight 2004 for more information. 63 Souce unknown. See also, Hals in Polsue (1870, 358) 64 Source unknown 65 Uncertain word 54

The Origin of the Cobweb Inn 66

When the above was opened as a pub, I have no information. The store or warehouse which sold implements for farmers and for the general public was opened sometime in 1795. Whether the pub was opened at the same time it is not possible to say. I think, at the time, it was more of a place where the farmers met and had a drink when they were doing their business. It was not at the time a bright, open place as it is now, not much window light, the place packed up with barrels and boxes etc. Consequently, through the dimness and dullness of the surroundings, it naturally became the habitation of spiders, and they said to each other “this is the place where we will make our abode.” So they came along one after another until a nice colony was formed , different species, some spinning their webs with stouter material than others, seeking more substantial holdings than others. By so doing, they were able to have security during the years, up to the present time, not knowing that their presence would attract so much attention. This is how the place got its name. 67 When the whole building was a Farmers’ Ironmongery and Miscellaneous Store, it always had a good reputation and was under good management. Quite a number of horses were kept to draw wagons and carts as there were long country journeys to be made taking coal. There were large coal stores where many tons of coal were kept and many things were sold from the warehouse. Also, much

66 The postcard reproduced here was also used in Knight and Knight 2004, 67. I have used it here as it was in the original book. 67 I can recall seeing cobwebs perhaps a foot long hanging from the beams in the bar of the Cobweb in the 1960’s. These would, presumably, contravene health regulations today 55 wool was bought from the farmers and sold. All this has vanished and is just a matter of history. The place now that is used as a pub is still under good management and has a good reputation. The name of the present proprietor is Mr C. Beadon. The place is rather attractive and one of the things that makes it so is the name. There is considerable business done and more so in the summer season. What makes the place attractive, other than the cobwebs, is the brightness of the surroundings now to what it was in the old days, the interior with its alterations, and the friendship and cordiality and the pleasantness of those that serve, and those to be met, People who would always be willing to do a good turn or extend a helping hand. At a certain boarding house in Boscastle many years ago, in fact during the First Great War, an ex-German officer called for lodgings and remained for a while. On his departure, just before he left, he wrote the following in the visitors’ book. “Smiling faces, very willing to come in, but very unwilling to go out.” Perhaps this maybe attributed to the Cobweb Inn, “Smiling Faces” 68 .

Lost Industries and Trades.

Ships were built in a yard situated down by the harbour over a hundred years ago by T. R. Avery, owner of the Manor of Boscastle in his day. I think the yard was closed after his death. Whether the candle making industry was carried on by Avery, I have no information. Considerable trade was done in this business at the time. The old building has just been demolished to make way for the new car park, what was done with the old cauldron in which the tallow was boiled (it was yellow candles that were made) I cannot say, other than it was taken away. Close by was the building where malt was prepared for brewing. This was also closed many years ago. There was also a bakery business. This was, at one time, connected with the Farmers’ Ironmongery store. Good business was done for very many years when it was under good management. This is also closed. There were three Blacksmiths shops in the village, together with three shoemakers’shops. These were all closed many years ago. Opposite the Wellington hotel there were two waterwheels, one that drove machinery for the grinding of wheat into flour, the other for crushing barley and oats for cattle. Much business was carried on there many years ago, the mills being constantly in action.

68 A photograph of the author has hung in the bar of the Cobweb for many years. It shows him holding a service in the bar of the Wellington Hotel (see later in this book). The photo survived the 2004 floods, as did the “friendship and cordiality and the pleasantness of those who serve.” 56

Trades There have been tailors in the village for many years, men who knew their job, men who knew how to fit and cut a suit of clothes, shoulders well shaped and the suit in general nice to look at. Tailors called Smith and who kept the Post Office in another part of the village, were noted for their workmanship, two generations of tailors. Stove Maker One of the blacksmiths who worked in the forge on the harbour road, a little way up from the road, was outstanding in the making of stoves, he closed his business many years ago. Plumbers A father and son who carried on their business as plumbers were rather proficient as far as their work was concerned. Anything taken to them for repairs or re-adjustment could be relied upon due to their craftsmanship. Watchmaker There is still in the village a fully qualified Watchmaker and repairer. Being a practical craftsman, he can make parts if required. He is a very skilled tradesman who, before coming to the village, was blitzed out in London. Cart and Wagon Builder Many years ago, a tradesman who knew how to make a cart or wagon, carried on his business at a workshop down by the harbour road. He was very practical as far as his craft was concerned and turned out his work very effectively and with pride. He closed down many years ago on account of his wife’s health. Saddlers A saddlery business was carried on in the village for probably a century. A large amount of saddles and harness was made as there were many horses and posting stables. The Wellington hotel kept about twenty horses and there were many other stables where horses and carriages were let out for hire, for trips to various places. The saddlers down through the years were fully qualified business men, accustomed to making riding saddles and any kind of harness, hand made, best quality leather, bark tan, also fancy leather goods made. How I happen to know this is because I was acquainted with one old craftsman who made saddles and collars, and myself being a saddler could do the same. Again, this sort of business has closed, myself having closed down many years ago. 69 Bellows, which have been made in the village for over 30 years, are not what might be considered to be an old craft as far as the place is concerned.

69 I still have some of the author’s original leatherwork and some of his saddler’s tools. The handwritten original of this book was hand bound in leather by the author. He learned the saddlery trade at Newquay, where he lived before moving to Boscastle. I have, in my possession, another book written by WFB. This describes his life in Newquay and Boscastle and is my next project. 57

Their manufacture has been carried on by the writer, as I have already mentioned, for over 30 years. During this time, I have made many thousands of bellows, which have been sent to many parts of the world. I have made bellows of all sorts and sizes from about 3 inches to about five feet in length, and in all shapes.

Leather suitcases made by the author

I should like, just now, to give a description and a history of the bellows as related in an old dictionary dated 1754, “It is called a machine to agitate the air with great briskness, expiring and inspiring by turns, and that only from enlarging and contracting its capacity. The machine is used in chambers (meaning bedrooms and kitchens), in furnaces and foundries, to blow up the fires. It serves also for organs and other things to give them a proper degree of air. All these are of various constructions according to their different purposes, but, in general, they are composed of two boards, sometimes of an oval shape, sometimes triangular, two or more hoops (or rods) bent to shape the leather between the boards, then a piece of leather, broad in the centre and narrow at both ends, then is nailed on the edges of the boards, also on the rods (or hoops) which separate the boards so that the leather may the easier open and fold again.” This is how the bellows is made according to this dictionary. The bellows is mentioned once in the Bible (Jeremiah 6, 29), so the history of bellows making must be several thousands of years old. 58

Two of the author’s saddler’s hammers, together with a copper hip flask and a powder flask found by him on Forrabury common.

Some Old Customs of the Past

I have already mentioned some of these, which are now just history. The younger generation of Boscastle and the strangers who have come recently to the village and purchased houses, such traditions would probably not interest them much unless they were historically minded. The following which I am about to relate has to do with the children of the village, which I well remember when I came to the village 52 years ago. It was an annual event and took place on Shrove Tuesday. It went under the name of “Tippy tippy toe, give me an egg then I’ll go.” It was a time when children collected eggs. They would go around the village and also to the farms in the neighbourhood with their baskets, collecting eggs, mornings only. The children would first knock on the door of the house, then they would commence the well known “Tippy tippy toe, give me an egg and then I’ll go.” In the majority of cases, the householder would save eggs for the occasion. Some children would often get a basket full. It was interesting to watch the faces of the children, and hear the various sounds of their voices, some high pitched, some hoarse or almost bass. Some, in their anxiety to say the “Tippy tippy toe, give 59 me an egg and then I’ll go,” would say Clippy clippy cloe, give me a cleg and then I’ll go,” or leave out the “Tippy” or “Clippy” and say “Give give, then I’ll go.” Others would get mixed up with saying the words so fast. The old custom faded out a year or two after I came to the village. Without doubt it was a Godsend to many a home of those days, because the Father did not get much wages, and it was something looked forward to by the parents. April Fool, or commonly known as All Fools Day, the first of April. This again is an old custom, but not confined to Boscastle. I was often made a target by my wife and made an April fool, not thinking at the time of the old amusement. The fooling was confined only to the morning, the afternoon was for what was termed “Tail piping.” The children would take about with them lengths of paper to imitate tails and pins with a crook turned pushed through the length of paper. They would go stealthily behind a person and hook on the tail,to the amusement of passers by. I well remember it being done by the younger generation when I lived in Newquay in my boyhood. This old custom amongst the children has faded out. Whit Wednesday Sports. These sports in general were always an interesting event and pastime. Large numbers of people came to the sports which included horse racing, pony and donkey racing, cycle racing, flat races for men, boys and girls, high jumping and many other sports. It was an event that caused a lot of interest and amusement. I think that, at one time, it was a whole day’s proceedings, a general holiday of the village, commencing with a parade of the members of the Forester’s Club marching through the village headed by the band. The village has always held a good reputation for having a nice band, with good bandmasters who have always known their job. Actually the present band is in possession of a silver cup that they are holding for 12 months. Now, concerning the sports day, this too is a matter of history and has faded out. I will now conclude what I have written with regret and, to a certain extent, sorrow, because these events caused, especially for the younger generation, much amusement. The sports day was something that gave joy and a good time to the general public.

Memories

Memories of the past That brought joy and delight; Memories that came And vanished in a night. Children’s voices of mirth and might.

Memories of smiling faces 60

Of the Tippy Tippy Toe, Give me an egg and then I’ll go; Laughing then and laughing still, Thinking again of the April Fool.

Memories of sport Which brought joy to the mind, Something to last, Stimulated and invigorated With things that are past.

Memories, memories, memories. Memories that come, And memories that go, Which bring joy and comfort To body and soul. (Lines by WFB).

The Gate and the Harbour.

Many years ago, I sent the following article to the Camelford and Wadebridge Guardian, a weekly paper, as there was, at the time, so much controversy about a gate that had been fixed at the entrance of the main road to the harbour. The lettering on the gate was as follows, “Private Road. No Thoroughfare.” Naturally, visitors would think that they were not allowed through, so I sent the following article. What’s to be seen at Boscastle? Caves, waterfalls and majestic cliffs. But what’s to be seen at Boscastle? Is the question I have often been asked. Such a question cannot be answered in a few words. Tourists and visitors in general naturally are interested to know where to go and what is to be seen, and obviously want to take away as many impressions as possible; but tours are exacting things, and, if the schedule is to be adhered to, a definite itinerary is necessary. Many people visiting the place stop at what is called Boscastle Bridge. First, the question is asked, where is the Harbour? or which way is it to the Harbour? Sometimes- where is the sea? As there was no directing post in those days, some kind hearted person would point the way. The visit to the Harbour, with its quaint little jetties, (as there were two in those days) is very interesting. It takes the mind back over centuries and the surroundings bring to the visitor’s mind thoughts of the old smuggling days and exciting happenings. So many contrivances and devices used to lure ships ashore. The Harbour is a snug secluded little place, and has a charm which surpasses many of the little places along the coastline. Now we will leave the Harbour for another interesting part, the upper part of the village which amply repays a visit. Many visitors and tourists who come for a few hours miss this picturesque spot, yet here are quaint old houses (some of which have now been modernised) and the mound where once stood the Castle of Botreaux, of which now only the grassy mound remains. 61

The castle was probably built somewhere about the twelfth century and was the principal residence of the ancient Botreaux family, (I have mentioned this before) the last member of which , William, Lord Botreaux, was killed in the Battle of St Albans in 1462, leaving an only daughter who married Sir Robert Hungerford. Then the visitor can be shown the place which was the pound where stray cattle were put, and which could be redeemed by paying a small fee. After seeing this interesting part of the village, the next place of interest is the charming valley which intersects the tree clad hills. Here you can go and forget that you are living in a world with so much unrest. This walk should not be missed. Woods and valleys and babbling brooks, occasional glimpses of the sea, three churches and three old crosses and hardly an uninteresting moment. 70 Another charming feature is Pentargon Bay with its waterfall and caves, hemmed in by the verdant, buttressed escarpments of Beeny Cliffs and Fire Beacon Point,the bay itself being a deep gap in the coastline, with sheer rock walls, savage and forbidding. 71 Here again, the tourist can be interested, in watching the seals sporting themselves in the beautiful green and sparkling sea. The seals can sometimes be seen on shore, usually asleep. It was once possible to descend to the beach, and it was a nice place for bathing, but many years ago a landslide made the approach impossible, and the only way to gain entrance to the shore is by boat. A feature of Pentargon is a large cave which funnels into the cliff on the north side of the bay and is some 200 feet up from the entrance. This is called the “Double Doors.” There is also a cave on the south side of the bay which goes in a very long way. This cave the tourist can only gain entrance to at low water, or when the tide is fully out, and then only for a short time. Another interesting feature is the waterfall at the head of the bay, which leaps down some 200 feet. And so as we think of all the picturesque beauty spots in connection with the village, we can say with pride,

Boscastle, beautiful Boscastle, My heart leaps when I behold The charm untold Which gives new life to me.

Now I would like to relate a short story in connection with a cave dweller who, at one time, made his habitation on Willa Park Promontory. On this promontory more than 30 years ago there dwelt a cave dweller: his name was Bill Goat, the only survivor of his clan. His age was not known, his wife and family all predeceased him. Occasionally he could be seen. I have, on occasions, caught a glimpse of him and called to him in his native tongue, but he was always reserved and shy. Beneath the cave dweller’s home is a sheer, perpendicular drop, whether by accident he slipped and fell to the depths, or died in his cave home will never be known. Alas, alas, poor Bill.

70 Here the author refers to the walk from Boscastle via the churches at Minster, Lesnewth and St. Juliot. The route is described in Little’s guide to Boscastle, pages 19-22. 71 Again, see Little’s guide, page 27 for the route. 62

My work with the Church

As I have made reference to churches in my writings in parts of this book, their history etc, I would like to include something with regard to myself being connected with church work at Newquay before I came to live at Boscastle, and my work and service to the church at Boscastle, which covers a total period of over 60 years. At Newquay, I was connected to the Brotherhood Society and PSA and spent a considerable amount of time in organising the work which gave me much joy in service. Some of my work for the Church was carried on, not inside the church, but inside the Bar Parlour of the Wellington Hotel. 72 This was an outstanding event as far as the Hotel was concerned, as no form of service of a religious nature had ever been held there before. It happened by just a casual talk and expression of thought by one of the men who, at the time, was returning from having had his refreshment there. I was, myself, returning from an evening service at the church and met the man, who made this remark as we were about to pass each other. “Why is it that you don’t come down with us at times and let us sing some of your favourite hymns?” Well, it might have been twelve months before I gave it much thought, although there were occasions when I thought seriously about it and considered it to be worthwhile. Then, something seemed to say “go, go down.” Well, the first thing that I did was to approach the proprietor, who received me most cordially and in a most friendly manner. After I had explained matters, he said that he considered it to be a good gesture and that the hotel was open to me, and that I could do what I liked. First of all, I contacted the Police, as I was not sure if I would be breaking the rule of the law by having singing. The only thing as far as the Police were concerned was that I notified the village constable on each occasion when I conducted the service. I had fixed in my mind that the service would be for half an hour‘s duration, from half past eight to nine. The first night that I found myself inside the Bar Parlour, I was very careful and considerate in my approach to the men. I thought to myself that tact must be carefully observed in dealing with mixed thoughts amongst men and, on occasions, women. I carried on the services for six months, Friday evenings, once a fortnight. In my opening service, I explained to the men that why I had come amongst them was because I was broad minded as a Christian and that my religion was not made up of “don’ts”, that you must not do this, or don’t do that. I was received most whole heartedly. Large numbers attended the services, and I think that many came to enjoy the singing, hymns that some of them remembered from their childhood. Guests

72 As previously mentioned, there is a photograph of one of these services still hanging in the bar of the Cobweb Inn. 63 from the Hotel would come and take part and, after the service, would ask many questions. The form of the service was as follows; Opening Hymn, “Sankey’s Selection.” The Lord’s Prayer, then another hymn. Bible reading, then another hymn. A short address and two more hymns. Prayer and Benediction.

Often, at the conclusion of the service, the men would want to have some of their favourite hymns, I well remember that the Proprietor’s hymn was “God be with you till we meet again.” Favourite hymns were asked for every time every time I conducted the services. I think that, at this point, it would be interesting if I related a request from a Methodist Minister at Port Isaac who, having heard about the services, asked for a written report of them, he also being associated with such gatherings in a Pub at Port Isaac. The reason why he wanted the report was because he thought it would be a good idea to publish an account of it in his quarterly magazine. First I will write part of the letter that I received from him as follows; “It has been grand hearing about the good job that you are doing. Your work is in my Prayer.” The following is the report;

What has happened at the Wellington hotel Bar Parlour? What has happened and what is still happening is that fortnightly gatherings for community Hymn singing and Prayer, with Bible reading and a brief talk, are taking place at the Bar Parlour. It is something outstanding and new, and is much enjoyed by all who take part, and its popularity is growing. It brings to the listeners and to all those who attend, thoughts concerning the nature and reality of religion. It gives to them something out of the ordinary to think and talk about, outside of their ordinary conversation, and it has a tendency to inspire them towards the higher, and nobler, and greater parts of life. Guests at the hotel who attend enjoy the social and spiritual atmosphere of the proceedings. This is not a stunt and is different from sporadic raids on public houses by Christian Commando teams. Some people who like to be critical may say, “why hold meetings in Bar Parlours?” The answer is that if reference is made to Holy Writ, we shall find that when our Lord was on Earth, He moved around amongst the people, and the people followed Him because He had something to convey to them, and to tell to those who would listen of the unsearchable riches of Grace or Favour and Love. My contention is that, if a Christian has anything to say, or anything worthwhile to talk about, the best place to talk or witness is where Christianity or Religion is very seldom thought of, and perhaps more often criticised. If a Christian has something or anything to offer, he must offer it at whatever the cost. If anything in our Faith matters, it matters now. If we have found something enabling us to face 64 life with a quicker or quieter heart an a surer touch, we must tell people about it, persuade them, convince them. That is leadership, and leaders are needed very much, and very many, especially in these troubled days. There is not, and there has not been, enough cooperation between the representatives of the Church and those who are not Churchgoers. The business of the Christian witnesses is not merely and morally a matter of Ministers, Lay Preachers and Pulpits. All who recognise themselves as Christians should realise their responsibility as Evangelists, to be able to speak a word in season, with tact and assurance. I believe that, in going to the Bar Parlour, there is that possibility of bringing God’s love into action, by carrying something to the men and women who, before this beginning, had no conception of the reality of Christian witness. If we who call ourselves Christians have Christ’s Love within our hearts, let us witness its greatness. Let us say with St Paul, “I know whom I believe, and am persuaded that He is able to keep that which I have committed to Him against that day.” John Wesley left four questions for his followers to ask themselves, the last being: “Have I found something which I feel a burning, a burning experience to tell others?” If we who call ourselves Christians have such an experience, let us carry it outside of the church walls, let us carry it, that spirit of the Christ, something of what His love represents, let us go into the highways and byways, let us live it day by day.

Let us go back to the Bar Parlour. I asked the Proprietor of the Hotel at the time if he would like to contribute anything to the report, and this is what he wrote; This is definitely not a stunt, as the service throughout, and the community singing in the Bar Parlour, and all that transpires, is often a topic of conversation, breaking the otherwise monotonous topics of usually discussed subjects in these places.

He went on to say that, had he refused to allow these services, he felt sure that the inner man would be saying to him now that he had he had prevented a good deed from being carried out, so with a good heart, he felt that he should let the good work, that was enjoyed by many, continue. After I had commenced the services, there was a request from one of the men that we should have a signature hymn, and the one that was suggested was;

When I survey the wondrous Cross, On which the Prince of glory died. My richest gain I count but loss, And pour contempt on all my pride.

All the services were opened with this Hymn. After the opening of the services and when we were as one with each other, the men gave me an honoured name, “John Wesley”, because, they said, “John Wesley came to the people, and I had come to them, no one representing the Church had ever come before. On the event of the first service at the Hotel, after the service was over and I had said good night to them, they had a conversation amongst themselves relative to their going to the Methodist Church on the event of my appointment 65 there to preach. They decided that they would come to the service if I would let them know when it was to be held. On two of my appointments at the church, they came, 32 of them on each occasion. There came a time of disappointment when I was compelled to close the gatherings on account of the indisposition of my wife’s health 73 , but I thank God for such an opportunity of witnessing for a living God, and Jesus Christ His son. Whilst I am continuing with memories I should just like to mention some things relating to the Church at Forrabury and my association with some of the ministers in connection with the Church and invitations to take part and assist them in their work. I have been privileged to help, on certain occasions, in the prayers, reading the lessons and by preaching at an evening service to a crowded congregation. This event stands out in my mind as something not to be forgotten, the spititual atmosphere, the wonderful singing and the clergymen who did everything to make me feel at home. I also later became associated with the clergyman at St Juliot who, on various occasions, came to see me for talks at the shop and invited me to preach at the Harvest Festival service and again at an ordinary service. What I remember so vividly was, first of all, how he introduced me to his congregation and then what joy I felt in the services, the singing and the inspiration, the spiritual atmosphere and the blessing received in that section of the Master’s Work. The reason that I have mentioned these events is that I considered it a great honour, being a layman of the Methodist Church. During my nearly 50 years with the church, I had many experiences, one that I feel was outstanding and worth mentioning, especially as it happened to a lay worker. This was at a Chapel at Wadebridge in 1960 at an evening service. There were a number of visitors amongst the congregation, the service was bright and there was a spiritual atmosphere that could be felt. After the conclusion of the service and after I had bid adieu to the stewards in the vestry, outside the door there was a lady visitor who was a stranger to me. She greeted me with a smile and a warm handshake and said how much she had enjoyed the service and she commented on the spiritual atmosphere and other aspects of the service. Meanwhile, the Preacher’s car was waiting for me, so I had to apologise for shortening our conversation. When I proffered my hand to say goodnight, I felt something slip in to my hand, on looking to see what it was I realised that it was a pound note. So I thanked the lady and said that I would go into the Church and put it in the offertory plate. “No,” she said “this is for your services this evening.” I do not expect to ever know who the lady was. Appreciation for services rendered and things done is worth mentioning and adds, in another way, to history.

73 The author’s wife, Tryphena Burnard died in 1951, one year before I was born.

Poster from 1930 advertising services by WFB and Dr Hillier.

The Gold Circlet or Lunula.

What I am writing about now does not really have any connection with Boscastle as it was found at St Juliot, but it is possible that it might be of some interest to the reader, especially to find out something of its history, place of discovery and associations. The Lunula was found by some labourers who were working in a field at St Juliot. The man who found it gave it to his employer who sold it to Mr E.J. Hurdon, a Camelford Chemist, for its weight in gold sovereigns. Mr Hurdon sold it to Mr John Cook, the editor of the Saturday Review, a paper of that time. In 1866, Mr Cook presented it to his niece as a wedding gift. In 1917, Mrs Hayter, now Lady Haversham, offered it for sale at Christies on behalf of the Red Cross Society. It was bought by a London Dealer for £200 and resold by him for £250 to the Royal Institution of Cornwall. It is now in the Truro museum. The lunula is a gold ornament of the Bronze Age, its approximate date would be about 2000BC. Many lunulae have been found in Ireland, and it is generally believed that they were all made in that country, and that those found in other places were imported. Four have been found in Cornwall, one in Penwith, this one is in the British Museum, two at Harlyn near Padstow and one at St Juliot.

The Barony of Botreaux 74

William de Botreaux died before 1194. John de Botreaux he was living in 1220 William son and heir died without children. Barons by Tenure. (From an old Register).75 The above William ‘son’ was succeeded by his brother Reginald. He died in 1272, succeeded by another son and heir, who died in 1301 76 and was succeeded by his son William, who died in 1349. None of these mentioned were ever summoned to Parliament. Barons of Writ

William de Botreaux son and heir of William de Botreaux last mentioned was summoned to Parliament in 1368. He died in 1391 and his son and heir was summoned to Parliament in the same year. He died in 1392. His son and heir William Bottreaux was summoned to Parliament in 1412. He died in 1462 without male children, leaving a daughter who became heiress, Margaret. She married Robert the 2 nd Baron Hungerford and their son Robert succeeded to the Barony, but being

74 See also Knight and Knight 2004, 25-26. 75 Source unknown. The same information is given by Hals in Polsue 1870, 359. 76 These two men were mentioned by Polsue, 1870, 363 as being amongst the rebel barons against Henry III in 1264. 68 attainted in 1463 the honours became forfeited. He was beheaded after the Battle of Henham, 1464 and his son and heir was never restored. He was also attainted and beheaded in 1468. Mary, daughter and heiress married Edward Hastings and obtained the reversal of the attainders of father and grandfather. She, in 1477, succeeded her great grandmother in the Barony of Botreaux. Her son and heir was created Earl of Huntingdon in which dignity, the Barony of Botreaux, with others, was merged until the death of the fourth Earl without children in 1787, when they devolved on Elizabeth his sister and heiress, who thus became Baroness Botreaux in her own right. She married John, Earl of Moirb and their son was created the first Marquis of Hastings. He married the Countess of Loudon, a Scottish peerage in her own right and this line continued until 1868, when the Marquis died without issue. The title became extinct and the Baronies fell into abeyance between the sisters. The eldest of these became Countess Loudon and the abeyance of the Barony of Botreaux was terminated in her favour in 1871. She died in 1874 having previously married Lord Donington who died in 1895. Her son inherited the Barony of Botreaux and died in 1920 without children. He was voted in the House of Lords as Baron Botreaux. He was succeeded by his niece, the present Countess of Loudon and Baroness Botreaux, who, being a woman, cannot sit in the House of Lords. She married Abney Hastings and their son was born in 1918 and in time became Lord Mauchline. He will in the ordinary course become Baron Botreaux 77 .

Forrabury Church has One Bell

This is a poem that was by an outstanding personality of his day, “Parson Hawker” as he was known. It is to do with Forrabury Church and tells how the church, with its tower standing proudly on the hill, was supposed to have had a peal of bells. These bells were being sent by ship, and as the ship was nearing the coast at the point which is called Willa Park, it was caught in a terrific storm and sank. There is a story that the bells which the ship was bringing can still be heard when the sea is very rough, beneath the headland. A noted old worthy who long ago lived in the village was supposed to have found a piece of a bell. This is the poem;

But why are Botreaux echoes still? Her tower stands proudly on the hill, Yet the strange Chough that home hath found, The Lamb lies sleeping in the ground.

Come to your god in time Should be the answering chime: Come to your God at last! Should echo on the blast.

The ship rode down with courses free,

77 The source and date of this information is unknown. Lord Mauchline died on active service in 1944. I think this makes Michael Abney-Hastings, the 14 th Earl of Loudon the current Baron Botreaux and possibly the rightful King of England if the recent TV program was correct. 69

The daughter of a distant sea: Her sheet was loose, her anchor stored, The merry Botreaux bells on board.

Come to your God in time! Rung out Tintagel chime: Youth, manhood, old age past, Come to your God at last.

The Pilot heard his native Bells, Hang on the breeze in fitful swells: Thank God! With reverent brow he cried, We’ll make the shore with evening tide.

Come to your God in time! It was his marriage chime: Come to your God at last!

Thank god, you whining knave on land, But thank, at sea, the steerman’s hand: The Captain’s voice above the gale, Thank the good ship and ready sail.

Come to your God in time, Sad grew the boding chime: Come to your God at last! Boomed heavy on the blast.

Up rose the sea! as if it heard, The Mighty Master’s signal word: What thrills the Captain’s whitening lip? The death groans, of his sinking ship.

Come to your God in time! Swing deep the funeral chime, Grace, mercy, kindness past, Come to your God at last.

Still, when the storm of Botreaux waves, Is waking in the weedy caves: Those bells that sullen surges hide, Peel their deep notes beneath the tide:

Come to your god in time! Thus saith the Ocean Chime: Storm, billow, whirlwind past, Come to your God at last.

Now, when I think of Forrabury as a word, as a name, I have very many happy memories. A house at Forrabury was the home of my wife, where her parents 70 lived 78 . The Church was where we were married by a very fine type of Clergyman who joined us together in Holy Matrimony. What stands out in my mind was the extempore prayer that he made as we knelt at the communion rail, a memory that will never fade while time lasts. 79

Forrabury, with happy memories, Forrabury, with centuries of history, Forrabury with history of family life, Marriage at the church.

For a number of years, our home life was at Newquay. We came to Boscastle to live in 1909 and Oh! what memories of so many things. The little shop at Harbour Road, what stories could be told of many subjects, many interesting people whom I have met. In some cases there were people who had been troubled in mind, some, who having lost loved ones, needed words of comfort, others wanted counsel and advice. I have many memories that are hanging around, not just in the corners of the little building, but everywhere one can look, silent thoughts and whispers, memories. I am still prepared to give counsel, advice and comfort. Now as I am getting near the end of my writings concerning the history of the village, I look back to the time when it was just a cove or creek, before being of any importance. Then it was a place where ships of those early days took refuge when caught in those terrible storms which have always happened off this coast. Then, when land owners of ancient times realised how important sand was for their land and men, with whatever conveyances they had in those days, came down to the shore and, in process of time, became acquainted with the mariners and then associated with the owners of the ships, trade commenced and the place gradually found a name.

At the start of this book, I, as you will have noticed, have called it “High Cliff Cove” which perhaps may have been very appropriate to its beginning. The lofty hills on each side, the river flowing, perhaps winding from one side to the other, deeper where there were soft places in the soil, shallower where there were rocks. I expect that what now is a valley of beauty and grandeur was, at that time, forest and thick undergrowth inhabited by foxes and reptiles, and perhaps there were the larger wild animals that are known to have lived in this country from the bones that have been found.

78 The genealogy of the Burnard and Ferrett families will be covered in a future volume. 79 The marriage service was performed by the Reverend Price.

Boscastle, once known as Boterell or Botreaux now has a name of its own. It is a place of some importance and its popularity is widely known, even to be seen on TV. 80 I don’t know if I am stretching a point in saying that it has, in the last few years, become inhabited by a large number of new people, some who have bought property and have come from towns to live here. Most of the old inhabitants have died out, some of the younger ones have gone to other parts to live, but there are still some that remain. Some of the older houses of the village have been brightened up and given a new look, especially by those who are strangers to the place and have bought the premises they occupy. One of the places that have been somewhat derelict for many years is what is now the Youth Hostel. The restoration of this has improved the look of the surroundings and has made the approach to the harbour more attractive, without its appearance being modernised, which often spoils a place. Then further on, where a rough and jagged looking piece of wall of an old building has now been improved on and made more presentable, is now a museum. The antique shop has been in existence for some years. Adjoining this is a restaurant which covers a considerable space and has a large room nicely laid out with attractive tables and chairs. This also is an asset to that part of the village. Then, as we leave the Harbour part and come nearer to the New Bridge, there is the branch shop of Burnard’s Stores, Mr Webber’s Fancy Shop, Mr Turner’s Garage and Wireless Shop and Burnard’s Stores, where the visitor can be supplied with most things which may be required. Opposite these stores is the Riverside Café, where visitors will be well served. Close by is the Free Car Park, the Old Manor House opposite and adjoining is the Pottery where things can be seen in the making. There is also a greengrocery shop and the noted Cobweb Inn. Just above is the beautiful and attractive Valency Valley, where you can go and forget that you are living in a world where there is so much talk by statesmen about atomic warfare, with bombs to blow this beautiful world to bits and pieces, it may be without a thought of “their” exit the same way. Earlier in this book, I have mentioned my visits to the Wellington Hotel and the men who were pleased to welcome me when I held services there. In my reading I have found out that there were several pubs in the village, some were called beer houses, just small places. I have lived in the village for about 52 years and, up to the present, I have never seen anyone what I term the worse for liquor. In my younger days, when I lived at Newquay, at two places there, (Not mentioning names) I have seen men put out of the pub and at another place, men fighting each other, but never at Boscastle.

80 News footage of the 2004 floods was shown in Australia. 72

During my time at Newquay there was a little place in the main street where two very nice people, a man and his wife, carried on the business, and it was under good management. It is still in existence. I mention these people because because they were connected with the YM Chapel where my mother and father attended. I can remember these people attending the week night services. I also remember the proprietor of a much larger place. I have forgotten the name of the place. He attended services at the Congregational Church. And now, to conclude as far as this contribution on publicans is concerned, I will say that the majority of them are kind-hearted, nice people.

The Red Hot Shilling: a Story of a Boscastle Man

This is a story concerning a Boscastle man of long ago, which I read in a very old book written by Nellie Cornwall 81 . I should say that, very probably, He was a simple minded individual, one who had not much to do with being in possession of or receiving much money. The name of the man was Tom Pentire, he lived in Boscastle for most of his life and his father was a shepherd. Tom was walking down the Old Road one day when he happened to spot what he thought was a red hot shilling (it was a sovereign in the road). Tom looked at the coin with delight but was rather nervous of touching it, fearing that it might burn his fingers, so, looking for something to pick it up, he found two pieces of slate and slipped it between them. He then ran down to the Harbour, dropped it into a pool and waited a while for it to cool. Soon, some of the younger generation came to see what Tom was watching so intently in the pool. The water was very clear and the coin could be seen at the bottom, just as bright and hot-looking as when it was put in. Presently, as more youngsters began to gather around and, as their eyes were filled with wonder and amazement, the pool began to show signs of red and gold, with this happening, they all sprang back with the thought that the pool was on fire. What was actually happening was that the sun was going down in the western sky and a cloud just above the pool was brilliant with the rays of the setting sun. Its reflection was cast in the pool. Gradually, the pool became normal again and there lay the coin, the same colour as before, not having changed its appearance. After a while, the light began to change and it began to get dark. The children had gone to their homes, but Tom still remained waiting to the cooling to take place. The clergyman of the village, who had come that way for a walk, saw Tom, whom he knew, sitting on the rock beside the pool. He spoke to him, asking why he was looking in the pool with so much interest. Tom replied that he had found a red hot shilling and had put it in the pool to cool.

81 Presumably the writer Nellie Sloggett (also known as Enys Tregarthen, 1851-1923). She wrote a number of books on Cornish themes in the 1900s. 73

The Parson, who was a good Christian, had pity on poor Tom. He realised that Tom had never been in possession of a gold coin before, so he explained that the coin was not a shilling but a spade guinea, and that it was worth twenty one shillings. The clergyman put his hand into the pool and gave the coin to Tom, telling him to be careful not to lose it and to go home before it got dark.

1909: Boscastle New Hall Tableau.

Newspaper cutting from 1909 82

82 The mention of acetylene gas here reminds me of my grandfather Jack Burnard telling me how he used to catch fish in the Valency river by throwing in lumps of calcium carbide (this reacts with water to form acetylene). 74

Entertainments

Now to change over to something concerning entertainment. Boscastle past and present has always been proud of those who have taken part in the Entertainment world, men and women who were born entertainers. Unfortunately, most of these joy-making people have passed into the Beyond, but their memories still live. There is still one living in the village, advanced in years, who could relate some of her experiences. The particular party that she was connected with was organised by a retired actor who, in those far off days, produced very attractive plays in a hall down at the Bridge part. Quite a lot of money was made and sent to one of the hospitals in Plymouth. The Hall, which could accommodate four or five hundred people, would be crowded and the entertainment much enjoyed. The Hall was sold some years ago’ on account of it not being required much, the entertainers having passed on. The Building is now in use as a restaurant.

Bands

For very many years, Boscastle has been in possession of very nice bands and very good musicians, men who had a very good knowledge of music, numbering at times 25 performers. During my earlier days, it gave me much joy to be associated with the band, this was when it numbered 25. Often, we were invited to come to Tintagel for various things, sometimes at the King Arthur’s Hotel, and other places. There was a band in the village when I came to live at Boscastle and that is over 50 years ago 83 . There is still a very nice band in the village at present and it has won a silver cup, which is being held for 12 months 84

Choirs

A number of years ago, the village was in possession of a good choir, well conducted and well organised. The Schoolmaster at the time was a very talented musician, also a good organist 85 . He was very much at home seated at a good pipe organ and could almost make it talk (as we say). He gave much of his time to the choir and was very proud of their capabilities, many concerts and cantatas were given. The last of the performances that was given was at Forrabury Church, “From Olives to Calvary”. That was the last of his associations with the choir, on account of the indisposition of his wife. Unfortunately, he passed away before his wife. That is nearly twenty years ago.

83 Circa 1910 as far as I can tell. 84 See Knight and Knight 2004, 86-91 for a detailed history of the Boscastle bands. 85 Probably “Boss” Elford, mentioned in Knight and Knight 2004, 129. 75

And so, to the reader, Boscastle has always, more or less, been on the map and can associate itself with any town dweller, having always in her midst people of intelligence and competence. Boscastle has always been home to outstanding personalities, doctors, schoolteachers, ministers of religion and good business men. This goes back over the centuries.

Group picture taken at Lynwood House, New Road, circa 1910

(The subject of the Address was “every man has his price”)

Now I would like to make another contribution concerning the religious side of the village. This concerns men who would, perhaps, like to be associated with something outside the everyday routine, which sometimes becomes monotonous. The printed handbill above concerns services held at the Public Hall. I was associated with such meetings when I lived in Newquay and I managed and organised them there. Many people looked forward to these services, which were well attended on Sunday afternoons. They were of about an hour’s duration and not altogether confined to a set form of service. On the whole, the idea was to make the gatherings as attractive as possible. Well, with reference to the attached handbill, which I sent around the village, I got in contact with men who I felt would be interested, such as the Rector and a churchwarden, together with some of the Methodist Church. Those who were most interested in the new venture were the Rector and members of the Anglican Church, who gave their full support. I carried on the services for a considerable time, having new speakers each Sunday. These spoke on a variety of subjects and, on occasions solos were contributed. On the whole the services were much enjoyed. This was the first type of religious service held at the Public Hall and none were held there afterwards. I have included this entry in my book because it adds to the historical side of things as far as the village is concerned and because, myself being connected with church work for so many years, it has been a big part of my life.

Offices of the Church

I have held all of the offices connected with the Church with the exception of Circuit Steward, which I was not altogether interested in. I have held the offices of Class Leader, Chapel Steward, Trust Secretary, Choir Secretary, Chapel Secretary and Sunday School Superintendent. All these things have been a part of my life. I have included this as I think it adds to the history of the village.

Forrabury Church and the Sunken Bells

Earlier, I included a poem by the Rev. S. Hawker in connection with the Church and the bell. The following is by another writer. 86 The Parish dedicated to St Symphorian. The inhabitants, at the time of its erection, asked the Lord of Bottreaux to present them with a peal of bells, which should equal those of Tintagel. He complied, they were cast in London and sent around by sea. The ship laden with

86 Source not identified as yet. 78 the precious freight had arrived at Willa park Point, when her Pilot, a Master Mariner of Tintagel, caught the sound of his own village bells and thanked God. The Captain was not so devout a man as the Pilot, and protested that only the stout ship and the strong masts were to be thanked, and praise given to God ashore. We should thank God, replied the Pilot, on board ship as well as on land. Thank your own skill, said the Captain, and the prosperous breeze, and he let himself go with a volley of rough sea oaths. Now as the good ship neared the cliffs, and beacons were showing lights to announce her approach, there was a sudden gust of wind, and immediately followed by a terrible storm coming on. The wind blew and the storm raged, and onward was carried the ship, whose crew were helpless to guide her, and onwards to the perilous rocks she was taken. Vain the skill of the Pilot; vain the stoutness of the masts; onward she went, and rushing into the breakers, soon to become a total wreck. Of all her gallant crew only the Pilot, almost by a miracle, came ashore safe on a plank he was clinging to. And to this day it is said, when the storm is raging, and when the waves are beating with their fury against the cliff beneath Willa Park, the solemn music of the bells which sank with the unfortunate ship, may still be heard.

Newquay

Now, Newquay has nothing to do with the History of Boscastle, but as I have made reference to Newquay in some parts of my writing, I thought I would refer to the place. It is also where I lived in my younger days and where I was educated. The town in those days was very small compared with what it is today. The population when I was a boy was about two thousand, now I think it is somewhere about 20,000. 87 I have many very happy memories of the place and this is why I feel I should write something of its history. What I am writing now is copied from an old directory dating back to 1871, when the town had a population of 1121 people.

Newquay is a small seaport town and watering place on the North Coast, in the parish of St Columb Minor, 14 miles north east from Truro railway station and 8 miles west from St Columb Major. The government of the town is vested in a Board under the protection of the Local Government Act. Its chief exports are Iron and other ores, China Clay, Granite, Fish and Grain; the imports are Coals, Salt and Manures. The Harbour is an artificial one, the Piers forming it were originally constructed by a Mr. Lomax; it was reconstructed by J. T. Treffry Esq. and admits ships of 200 tons. The Cornwall Minerals Railway and Harbour Company, whose contracts provide for the final completion of their works by the first of July, 1874, have a line of railway in course of construction to this place, which will bring into use the existing tramways. They also hold the Harbour, with its rights and privileges, under lease from the trustees of the Rev. Dr. Treffry. The cliff scenery here is extremely picturesque and grand, and there is also the advantage of a fine sandy beach. It is a favourite summer resort.

87 19,562 in the 2001 Census 79

Town management, Local Board. Names of members:-

W. E. Mitchell, Chairman. William Thomas. William Hicks. Richard Carne. John Ennor. John Hooper. Frederick Burton. Thomas Garland. John Clemens.

Carriers:-

Certain days, their carriages or wagons left the town on specified days, Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays, starting at 8 O’clock in the morning and returning the same day.

Independent People:-

Miss James, Eveningside. William Llwelyyn, Harbour Terrace. William Edwards Mitchell, The Fort. Sir Paul Molesworth, Bart. The Tower. Francis Rodd, Glendorgal House. Charles Treffry, Shucksford.

Commercial and Trades:-

Charles Bellingham, Carpenter. Thomas Boyle, Surgeon, John Buckthought, Boot and Shoe Dealer and Grocer. Thomas Burrow, Blacksmith. Richard Carne, Carpenter. Joseph Chappel, Shoemaker. Clemens Brothers, Shipbuilders. Mrs Bertha Cock, New Inn. William Cook, Tailor. Cornwall Minerals Railway & Harbour Co. J. V. S. Muller, Manager. Frederick Drew, Sailors Arms. Richard Ellery, Shipowner. Josephus George, Mason. William Green, Tailor. Misses Hawke, Drapers. Nicholas Hawken, Shipowner, Primrose Cottage. Henry Hawkey, Draper and Grocer. John Henner, Carpenter. James Hicks, Blacksmith. Johnson Hicks, Shipowner. 80

William Hicks, Draper and Grocer; and at St. Columb. Peter Hoare, Farmer. Francis Hawkey, Dairyman. Richard Hocking, Shoemaker. John Hooper, Shipowner. John Hoyle, Grocer. Mrs Irwin, Eating house. John James, Greengrocer. Cotton Jenken, Carpenter. Frederick Jenkin, Grocer, Coal and Corn Merchant, Shipowner. Thomas Jenkin, Shipowner. Sarah and Kate Jewell, Boarding School. William Lake, Stationers, Booksellers, Printer. Nicholas Lang, Shoemaker. Alfred Lawrey, Boot and Shoemaker. Eliza Lawry, Commercial Hotel. John Lees, Carpenter. Miners Bank, Messrs Willyms and Co. James Morris, Saddler. Ann Moyres, Shopkeeper. James Pearce, Butcher. James Penrose, Blacksmith. Percy Thomas Bickle, Chemist. 88 Henry Praper, Draper and Grocer. Thomas Prout, Red Lion Hotel. George Read, Lodging House. John Reynolds, Watch and Clock Maker and Ironmonger. William Rodda, Mason. Richard Rowe, Day School. Miss Stephens, day School. Thomas Stribley, Butcher. Ebenezer Tallich, Grocer. Faithful Veal, Shoemaker. William Richard White, Grocer.

Why I have written about Newquay and these business people connected with the place, is because I knew some of them personally, some of them were members of the Wesleyan Church and Sunday School, where I attended as a boy and teenager. 89 I have very many happy memories of those days. Whenever I go to Newquay and have an opportunity to get away from the busy mass of people moving around the streets, I can dream of the past.

Conclusion

88 As written. Perhaps he was Thomas Bickle Percy. 89 WFB. Moved to Newquay sometime shortly after 1881. He was living at 20 Deer Park by 1891.(Based on census data). 81

Now I have come to the end of the many things which I have written, and which have given me much pleasure in the writing. The books that I have read of Boscastle’s history, speeches that I have listened to, manuscripts that I have been able to get, and in my earlier days meeting old men who had many things to tell about the place. This has all given me much pleasure. Now to conclude with best wishes from woods and valleys, babbling brooks, running streams, charm and beauty. The song of the birds, the cuckoo with its monotonous notes, the wood pigeon with its “Take two cows, Taffy”, memories which can never fade of valleys and hills, village life and men of the brave, tender hearted and true, with spirits of love and willing to comfort those who are in need, the weak, the destitute, the orphan, the motherless and fatherless, and returning to Daddy Tregellas with his Pets he could not save.

Boscastle, beautiful Boscastle, My heart leaps up as I behold, The charm untold, which brings, New life to me.

W. F. Burnard, Bridge House, Boscastle 1962. A. Ross MA, Mornington, 2007.

Bibliography.

Knight, R. and Knight A., 2004 The Book of Boscastle: the Parishes of Forrabury and Minster, Tiverton. Little, R.I., 1972 Boscastle: A History and Guide, Boscastle. Lyson, D and Lyson, S., 1814 Topographical and historical account of the county of Cornwall , London. Volume 3 Nowakowski, J.A. and C. Thomas, 1990 Excavations at Tintagel Parish Churchyard Cornwall, Spring 1990: Interim Report, Truro. Penhallurick, R. D. 1986, Tin in Antiquity, London. Polsue, J., 1868 , A Complete Parochial History of the County of Cornwall, Volume II, Truro (This work is usually referred to as Lake’s Parochial History). 1870 , A Complete Parochial History of the County of Cornwall, Volume III, Truro. Rivet, A. L. F. and C. Smith, 1979, The Place-Names of Roman Britain , 82

London. Thomas C. 1981, A Provisional List of Imported Pottery in Post-Roman Western Britain and Ireland, Institute of Cornish Studies Special Report No.7, Redruth. 1993, Tintagel, Arthur and Archaeology, London.

The Ferrett family at Forrabury, 1903. Tryphena Ferrett in back row.