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CHICtravel

Home or abroad, our weekly travel pages have all the edited by Moira Hannon, email [email protected] Pack up and go... best deals and ideas you need for getting away

he famous landmarks in are the icing on the cake — this is a city that requires repeat visits to uncover Tfully its many beautiful layers, writes MOIRA HANNON. It’s true that your first time in the French capital requires you to taste its world InSeinely lovely famous attractions. The , the , Notre Dame, Sacre Coeur, Pompidou, a boat on the GRAB AN . EIFFEL — So They all offer a feast for the eyes and are much to do and happily devoured by millions of tourists see in Paris WED A VIEW — Lusty Beg makes for every year. a stunning wedding location But if you’ve ticked these places off your bucket list and think you’ve “done Paris” — sorry dear reader, but nothing could be further from the truth. If you were to compare the City of Light to a menu, then you’re still on the starter course. I have visited Paris on perhaps 20 or so occasions, starting out in 1988 as a penniless 17-year-old student and just last month, for the first time since the January 7 Charlie Hebdo massacre. To be honest, I expected to find the city still heaving with police and a tense atmosphere around the Top tips busier tourist spots. l But no, Paris was just If you’re visiting Paris for the first as it always was — time, the Louvre will be on your must-visit haughtily beautiful list (open daily except Tuesday). To save time, under a cool log on to www.louvre.fr/en and get familiar with Gambetta Jewish students were deported (only four springtime breeze the layout. Choose two or three sections that station on survived) he started assisting Jews to — and yet there was interest you (the Mona Lisa is signposted La line 3. You escape the Nazis, hiding many in his own one major Gioconda) and you will be back out the door in a can never get home. difference. couple of hours. Prebook a ticket from paris. bored of The perfect place for a picnic (yes, you The hordes of .com or parisinfo.com or from exploring Pere are allowed to sit on the grass!) grab a sightseers at every kerb FNAC bookstores and music shops. Enter Lachaise. falafel from any of the nearby delis and — one of the drawbacks via the underground carousel shopping Haunting and wallow in the serenity and beauty of a of wandering around the centre — there’s never much of a magnificent. park that also contains a small playground. most visited city in the world queue. About a ten minute walk further east — were gone. l JARDIN DES will take you to the , the The streets were emptier than I had ever ROSIERS - JOSEPH-MIGNERET oldest and arguably the finest square in seen them and I could admire the views — This delightful park is tucked away in Paris. unimpeded by large tour groups and the middle of the uber cool Marais district If architecture is your thing, here you can selfie-stick wielding couples. (3rd and 4th arrondissement) on the Right admire some of the most beautiful So if you’re planning your first — or Bank. buildings in the city. indeed 20th — visit to Paris, this could be Just a few steps off the perfect time to go. the crowded rue TRANQUIL — l ORANGERIE, MARMOTTAN But shhhh — don’t tell anyone. des Rosiers Jardin des Rosiers AND PICASSO MUSEUMS For inspiration, check out some “secret (beside No10) — My three favourite museums places” for the discerning visitor ... in the heart of in Paris. Though not as well the old Jewish known as the D’Orsay or the l PERE LACHAISE — Over a million quarter, you Louvre, stick them on your list people are buried here and it’s one of the step down an for a rainy day and you won’t spookiest spots in Paris. Famous residents alleyway and be disappointed. include Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison and Edith into a hidden Musee Picasso recently Piaf. Some of the tombs are bigger than gem of reopened after a five-year your average semi-d. You could easily tranquillity. renovation. It is housed in a 17th spend half a day wandering around this The garden is century mansion known as the Hotel very special place. Metro stations nearby named after Joseph Sale in and contains over 5,000 include Philippe Auguste on line 2 but if Migneret, a local teacher dedicated to the works by the world’s most expensive artist you want to visit Wilde’s grave, use the Resistance during the war. After 165 of his (Picasso’s Women of Algiers recently sold

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edited by Moira Hannon, email [email protected] More travel on page 26

What you really need in Paris is a comfortable bed to collapse into after a hard day’s sightseeing. I found just WHERE that and more in the Legend Hotel on the Rue de Rennes (a great shopping street) on the Left Bank, close to the Luxembourg Gardens and the buzz of TO STAY legendhotelparis.com, prices from St Germain de Pres. E It’s cool and contemporary with around 200 per room per night but InSeinely lovely some cute touches they have package deals like an honesty bar if and discounts if you you fancy a tipple. book well in advance. My cosy room Email contact@ came with an legendhotelparis.com ultra-powerful ensuite for offers. shower, mini-bar and The Legend is part of enough pillows to the Elegancia group, Yummy advice open my own shop. for more see www. Breakfast included elegancia-hotels.com l Foodies will love the website STYLISH — The parisbymouth.com — it has special food maps a naughty selection of delicious chocolate lobby of the GETTING THERE: outlining such delights as the Best Baguettes, Legend Hotel tartes as well as the There is a shuttle bus Lemon Tarts and Croissants in Paris. They also and a bedroom to list all the upcoming food and wine events usual croissants, cereals etc and the Station, about a five plus restaurant reviews and neighbourhood minute walk from the eating out guides. staff are very friendly. Bonus points for hotel, direct from the two large cinemas just steps away at airport. Montparnasse. Log on to http://en. Check out www. lescarsairfrance.com

MONEY SAVER n The Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau has fantastic money saving offers such as the Paris City Pass, which includes all transport plus discounts on museum admissions, from E32 for a two day pass. Their site also has advice on everything from family to travelling with a disability. See parisinfo.com

at auction for E150m). columns looks grandly down on the Left Rodin sculpture, The Kiss. Entry E9, closed You can also see the artist’s own private Bank. Among those buried in its crypts are Monday, see www.musee-rodin.fr/en collection on the upper floor. Voltaire, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Émile Zola, Admission is E12, for opening hours etc Jean Moulin, Louis Braille, Jean Jaurès and l CATACOMBS — There is no getting see www.museepicassoparis.fr/en/ Marie Curie. away from skeletons in Paris but this really The main attractions in both Musee The Pantheon (E7 admission, see www. is one of the most fascinating sites in town. Marmottan (www.marmottan.fr/uk/) pantheonparis.com/) is currently Just steps from Metro Denfert-Rochereau and L’Orangerie (www.musee-orangerie. undergoing a partial renovation and you lies an ossuary containing six million bones fr) are Monet’s Water Lilies. can no longer see Foucault’s pendulum but from various Parisian cemeteries. Marmottan (E11 admission, the nearest its subterranean splendour is not to be Skulls surround you as you walk through metro is La Muette) is also home to a missed. On the subject of dead famous the 1.7km labyrinth of tunnels (entry E8, wonderful selection of people, (near the see www.catacombes.paris.fr/en/ impressionist paintings in the 16th hoºmepage-catacombs-official-website) including Manet, Sisley arrondissement) is another and Morisot. grande dome and the l SAINTE CHAPELLE — Built in the 12th Afterwards, wander burial place of century, this Gothic chapel contains one of around the Jardins du Bonaparte. Military buffs the most complete and remarkable sets of Ranelagh, an oasis of will be in heaven with stained glass of this era (go up the narrow greenery filled with its vast collection of staircase to see them properly). A statues and all types weaponry. Entry E9.50, masterpiece of religious architecture. Entry of beautiful trees. www.musee-armee.fr/ E8.50, see www.sainte-chapelle. Musee de l’Orangerie THE THINKER en/english-version.html -nationaux.fr/ —— the nearest — Musee Rodin (E9 admission, closed Metro is Cite on line 4. Tuesdays) is located just steps l MUSEE RODIN — Close to from the Louvre (skip the queues Invalides at Metro Varenne, this museum l GETTING THERE: Ryanair.com and with a museum pass, see our top tip is home to sculptor Augustin Rodin’s AirLingus.com fly direct to Paris daily from panel) and this is the best place to admire genius creations. The three acres of several Irish airports. Book well in advance Les Nympheas, the large Monet water lily gardens are probably the most romantic in for the best deals. murals. Paris and contain his most famous works including The Thinker and The Gates of For more information on all there is to l PANTHEON — This giant mausoleum Hell, while inside you will be stunned to see and do in Paris right now, check out with its massive portico of Corinthian silence by the beauty of my favourite www.parisinfo.com

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