Bulgaria in Summer Naturetrek Tour Report 20 - 27 July 2015 View of Bezbog Lake Daphne oleoides Burren Green Moth - Calamia tridens Knapweed Fritillary - Melitaea phoebe Report and images compiled by Alan Outen Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Bulgaria in Summer Tour participants: Alan Outen (leader) and Stoyan Beshkov & Nikolay Delchev (local guides) with nine Naturetrek clients Summary In the course of the week we enjoyed superb scenery, a wonderful range of wildlife and splendid hospitality. Overall we saw a total of 752 identified species including 360 higher plants and 277 invertebrate species, of which 98 were butterflies and 58 moths, as well as many other attractive and impressive bugs, beetles etc. It is always difficult to find birds on this tour this late in the season. The extremely high temperatures at the start of the week did not help as birds sort cover and despite the best endeavours of Nikolay, one of the most respected ornithologists in Bulgaria, we sadly only managed 85 species, the lowest ever for this tour. The high temperatures whilst based at Melnik also meant some modifications to the scheduled itinerary, whilst the threat of thunderstorms whilst based in Bansko also necessitated some rearrangement. Day 1 Monday 20th July Our flight was a few minutes late taking off from the UK, but as so often with this route we nonetheless arrived a few minutes early at 1.27pm (British Summer Time + two hours) and after clearing immigration and reclaiming luggage, we quickly found Nikolay and Stoyan in the arrivals hall. Glen and Sheila were also there having travelled separately, but Sheila's flight from Birmingham via Munich was unfortunately delayed so arrangements were made for her to be collected when she reached Sofia. The bus was loaded up and by 2.10pm we were on our way. It was sunny on arrival in Sofia; hot and sticky with a maximum temperature of 35°C. After travelling for a bit over an hour we stopped at some meadows near Samokov, which provided a productive introduction to some of the Bulgarian flora and fauna. Plants included Field Eryngo, Crown Vetch, Skeleton Weed, Childling Pink and Silene roemeri. Great Banded Graylng, Knapweed Fritillary and Purple-shot Copper were the best of the butterflies, whilst a Red-backed Shrike provided some ornithological interest. After three- quarters of an hour we drove on, though made a comfort stop soon after. White Stork and Raven were among the birds seen from the bus, whilst to save time later, Alan was also able to give the tour briefing via the bus microphone. At 6.15pm we made another brief stop, by the entrance to Kresna Gorge. Although this was mainly so people could stretch their legs, Nettle Tree, Centaurea diffusa, Amorpha fruticosa and Marrubium peregrinum were among the additions to the plant list. Birders noted Grey Heron and Dipper on the river, with the Long-nosed Grasshopper Acrida mediterranea and Diaea dorsata (a green crab spider) also attracting attention. We stayed just over half an hour, longer than intended and eventually arrived at our hotel in Melnik at 7.55pm, where we received a very welcome, though rather late, evening meal eaten outside. This was enlivened by a European Rhinoceros Beetle and the endemic subspecies of Kotschy's Gecko, attracted to the hotel wall lights. After a very long though interesting day, all were more than ready to retire. Day 2 Tuesday 21st July Today was sunny, hot and sticky with a maximum temperature of 35°C. A pre-breakfast walk from the hotel was well attended and those doing so were rewarded with sightings of Crag Martin, Red-rumped Swallow, Blue Rock © Naturetrek March 17 1 Bulgaria in Summer Tour Report Thrush, Golden Oriole, Black Redstart, Sombre Tit and Red-backed Shrike, as well as several common UK species. The plants were not neglected and these included Soapwort, Crimson Clover, Pink Everlasting (Xeranthemum annuum), Erigeron annuus, Geranium macrorrhizum, and the yellow flowered Achillea coarctata. The only butterfly of note was Wall Brown. After a satisfying breakfast we assembled at 9am, but no one minded a short delay in departure due to a Common Glider butterfly on the bus. Sightings of Crested Lark, White Wagtail and a tortoise species enlivened the one hour drive to the remarkable hot springs at Rupite, where the water temperature can reach 74° C. This is always a very productive site and this year was no exception with Masked Shrike, Short-toed Snake Eagle and a White Stork on the nest among the bird highlights. Botanists enjoyed Maltese Cross (Tribulus terrestris), Portulaca oleracea, Scolymus hispanicus, Heliotropium europeum, Nigella arvensis, N.elata and Lavatera thuringiaca among many interesting species. The butterflies included Eastern Bath White, Little Tiger Blue, Sooty Copper and Lesser Spotted Fritillary, whilst among other good insects were Southern Skimmer dragonfly, the attractive bush cricket Poecilimon thoracicus, the equally attractive shieldbug Carpocoris mediterraneus, the very curious-looking mantis Empusa fasciata as well as Ameles heldreichi, the Thread-waisted Wasp species Sceliphron curvatum and a rare owl-fly (Ascalaphidae) Bubopsis andromache (a large relative of the lacewings). Leaving here at midday, we made a series of short stops for cold drinks, facilities and a sighting of Great (White) Egret. Nikolay and Stoyan were trying to find somewhere a bit shaded and cooler as a suitable lunch stop, but it was in fact not until 2.15pm that we eventually stopped by a stream above Petrova village. By then lunch was more than welcome. Walking from here the insect diversity was excellent. Among the butterflies were Common Glider, Eastern Wood White, Southern Small White, Nettle Tree, Eastern Rock Grayling, Lang's Short-tailed Blue, Turquoise Blue and Marbled Fritillary, with moths including Nine-Spotted, Brown-tail, Humming-bird Hawk-moth and a Rosy Footman. Among other good finds were a Greek Tortoise, the impressive Balkan Goldenring dragonfly, Beautiful Demoiselle (widespread in the UK but nonetheless much admired), the red and black striped shieldbug, Graphosoma lineatum (dubbed the AC Milan Bug by a previous group), the curious little alien lace-bug Corythucha ciliata on the leaves of its host Oriental Plane, the iridescent Green flower Scarab and the attractive snail Zebrina detrita. The most noteworthy plants were Wall Germander, Salvia viridis, S.scalarea and Forked Spleenwort Fern. After leaving here we made a fifteen minute stop to view a very busy Bee-eater colony before returning to our hotel for 6.10pm. An enjoyable dinner was followed by a run-through of what had been seen during the day and checking off on our lists. Day 3 Wednesday 22nd July It was hot and sultry today with a maximum temperature of 34°C. Although mainly sunny, it was overcast at times. A species of Potter wasp Ancistrocerus auctus had been attracted to the hotel lights overnight, whilst the pre- breakfast walk yielded an impressive and much-photographed Spider-hunting Wasp species Cryptocheilus ichneumonides. The find of a Large Walnut Aphid meant those present were able to see that not all of this large and diverse group were dull and green or black. The best of the birds was a Syrian Woodpecker. After another substantial breakfast we left on time at 9am and drove back to Kresna Gorge for the scheduled stop here, arriving at 10.20am. This is one of the best natural history sites in Bulgaria, though threatened by a 2 © Naturetrek March 17 Bulgaria in Summer Tour Report road development, which will be a tragedy. The site is justly famous for its rich biodiversity and it is well worth spending time here, though on this occasion it was less productive than is normally the case. Even so there was plenty of interest. Among the more interesting plants were the shrub Christ's-thorn (Paliurus spina-cristi), Nettle Tree (Celtis australis), Echinops sphaerocephalus, Dianthus gracilis, Centaurea salonitana var. macrantha and Consolida regalis. Butterflies were noticeably fewer than anticipated though Swallowtail, Scarce Swallowtail, Sooty Copper, Nettle Tree and Holly Blue were seen, as well as larvae of Swallowtail. The best of the moths were Pygmy Moth (Thyris fenestrata, a family absent in the UK) and Jersey Tiger. Other species of note included a female Stag Beetle, the classic Praying Mantis (Mantis religiosa) the attractive ant-lion species Myrmecaelurus trigrammus, a bush-cricket species Oecanthus pellucens, the grasshopper Oedipoda miniata (with red under-wings that show when it flies) and the blue and black beetle Trichodes apiarius, the larvae of which feed on the grubs of solitary bees. We left here at 12.30pm and drove to a site above Sandanski where we had our picnic lunch at 1.30pm. In the course of a brief look around here the most interesting additions to the list were Balkan Green Lizard and Napoleon Spider (Synema globosum). Our final sites for the day were two short stops near Khotovo. The first of these afforded good views of Honey Buzzard, with the butterflies including Weaver’s Fritillary and Short-tailed Blue. The second had the distinction of having two plant species beginning with X, these being Xeranthemum annuum and the very spiky plant Xanthium spinosum. The most notable invertebrate was the Broad-headed bug Camptopus lateralis. This species appears as a rather dull brown insect until it opens its elytra to reveal startling bright red underwings. We returned to Melnik somewhat earlier than normal as several wanted to explore the village while others wanted to start packing for the transfer day tomorrow.