’tis the season for living crawfish y’all | bike the trace | dance like a cajun

Explorethe northshore

Spring/Summer 2019 1078

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Lake Pontchartrain on the cover

Tubing on the Bogue Chitto. contents pg 22 Photography by Kevin Garrett SPRING/SUMMER 2019 Cabins at Fontainebleau State Park PG 32

Inside “Stroke a 04 30 giraffe’s neck as she leans over celebrate explore Party hard, party often here in Swamp tours, nature trails, your shoulder.” the land of festivals, fetes and wildlife parks and gator fun for all ages. farms … oh, my. 13 26 39 indulge ride, baby, ride splurge Check out a few of the chefs Travel the Tammany Trace Attention, shoppers: You’re and restaurants we love on through Northshore towns going to love Old Mandeville’s the Northshore. and green spaces. Girod Street.

“Learn about 21 19th-century 35 adventure connect Adore the outdoors? Come life at the Bayou Small museums and historic pedal, paddle and play in Lacombe sites give perspective on the nature. Outfitters make it easy. Museum.” area’s past.

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 1 from the editor

Explorethe northshore

EDITOR Renée Kientz

ART Katie Clancy

CONTRIBUTORS Christina Cooper, Max Cusimano, Kevin Garrett, Cheryl Gerber, Lana Gramlich, David Gallent, Meghan Holmes, Roberta Carrow Jackson, Eric Lindberg, George Long and Anna Strider Ready for summer? PRESIDENT AND CEO orthshore winters are mild by You can rent a paddleboard for a stand- Donna O'Daniels most standards, but there’s up glide on the Tchefuncte. Grab some St. Tammany Parish nothing like blue skies and friends and your sunscreen and head for Tourist & Convention Commission N 68099 Highway 59 warm sun to stimulate our appetites for the Bogue Chitto for a day spent Mandeville, LA 70471 fun. Festivals and fresh-air concerts on the river. Take a sunset tour (985) 892-0520 www.LouisianaNorthshore.com pop up each spring like the clover in our down Cane Bayou to the lake, arriving garden. And summer, well, summer is just in time to see the sky turn glorious magical, with long days spent soaking in lavender and pink and orange. sunlight and warm nights filled with the We won’t even mention how good the fragrance of night-blooming jasmine and is here. And few things are more a soundtrack of harmonizing crickets un- fun than hauling in nets full of crabs der a starry sky. along Lake Road or even from your own When you reflect on your childhood, little dock at your over-water cabin at PRESIDENT/CEO doesn’t summer star in your sweetest Fontainebleau State Park. (The cabins Kimberly Ferrante memories? Swinging on a rope from tree- are quintessential summer!) GROUP PUBLISHER lined river banks, splashing in a pool There are grown-up pursuits here Adam Pitluk with other happy kids, even playing in — great dining, galleries and cute bou- CREATIVE DIRECTOR the spray of a hose held by your dad. Sum- tiques, for example — but summer on the David Halloran mer’s wet and wild and sweet here on the Northshore really is all about relaxing ABOUT MIDWEST LUXURY PUBLISHING Northshore, where kids can be kids and into your natural self, dressing for adven- Midwest Luxury Publishing is a full-service communications outfit made up of experienced industry experts. We are your turnkey their parents can, too. ture (or for comfort) and making memo- provider for all your communications and publishing needs. CONTACT THE PUBLISHER There are 80,000 acres of wilderness ries. So pack your shades and your sense [email protected] midwestluxurypublishing.com preserve here in St. Tammany Parish. of adventure and unleash your inner 972.378.4845 That’s pretty cool, right? Lots of green child. You know the one, the kid who liked space, great for hiking and exploring, feeling sand squish between her toes and Explore the Northshore is a biannual publication of the St. Tammany Parish for seeing wildlife in its native habitat. thought life would always be that sweet. Tourist & Convention Commission. The The Tammany Trace bike and hike trail STPTCC provides visitor information and assistance to leisure and business winds through the Northshore for 31 travelers in St. Tammany Parish, Loui- siana. Find comprehensive listings for miles. But when it’s too hot to bike or to accommodations, attractions, dining and events at the STPTCC’s official website: hike, the waterways await. Bayous and Renée Kientz www.LouisianaNorthshore.com shallow, sandy-bottom rivers. Miles of shoreline along Lake Pontchartrain and Follow us on Facebook at sweet little sandy beaches in Slidell and ExploreLouisianaNorthshore Mandeville. editor and on Instagram @lanorthshore

2 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM The Bogue Falaya River beckons when the weather gets warm.

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KEVIN GARRETT join the party

There’s always something fun happening on the Northshore, from festivals and street parties to crawfish cook-offs and Mardi Gras.

Party under the stars at Pontchar- train Vine- yards’ Jazz’n the Vines.

Party under the stars at Pontchartrain Vineyards’ Jazz’n the Vines.

4 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM The Northshore planner Head to louisiananorthshore.com/events to find out more

april 10-14 april 27 july 18 A Taste of Covington St. Tammany Collectors Lobby Lounge Concert Wine dinners and culinary events Convention Kristin Diable plays the Toy and comic con Harbor Center april 12 Philharmonic may 24 sept. 14-15 Orchestra Columbia Street Block Party St. Tammany Crab Festival Beethoven with Julian Steckel Music, vintage cars and more Crabs, crabs, crabs … and music

april 13 june 29 oct. 3-6 Easter at the Market Light up the Lake St. Tammany Parish Fair Hopping good time in Mandeville Independence Day fireworks and music Rides, critters and carnival food

Check out the Events calendar at louisiananorthshore.com We take full advantage of the warm weather months here in St. Tammany Parish, planning scores of events that celebrate the season. Street parties, art walks, free concerts, food festivals, fireworks on the lakefront, White Linen nights … From one end of the parish to the other, there’s always something to do and most of it’s free.

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 5 New fest! come to covington, there’s a new fest in town: the Bluesberry Festival makes its debut June 8 at Bogue Falaya Park. Showcasing blues with a little jazz and rock thrown in, the all-day fest also features the Abita Beer Garden, live art demos, a food truck roundup and chil- dren’s activity village. Among announced artists are Tyler Kinchen, Charmaine Neville, Eric Johan- son, Crispin Schroeder and Casey James, a Texas-based singer/songwriter familiar to many as a finalist on Season 9 ofAmer - ican Idol. Tickets are sold in advance and at the gate. The fest runs 10 a.m. till 7 p.m. at the lovely little park in downtown Cov- Swell on wheels ington along the banks of the Bogue Fa- Abita’s open-to-all Festival gets laya River. the fun rolling with art bikes, a collectors’ swap meet and parade through town ach year since 2000, the Louisiana everyone is invited to join in. Bicycle Festival in Abita Springs There is no admission charge for spec- Ehas celebrated pedal power and the tators or participants. It’s a fun day on creative spirit on the day before Father’s wheels for kids of all ages. Day. The fest, which this year falls on June Food is available on the festival grounds 15, features a swap meet, vintage and art across from Town Hall and at nearby bikes, and a short parade/ride. restaurants including the Abita Brew Pub, The swap meet starts early, around 8 Abita Springs Café, Artigue's and Mama a.m., with bike enthusiasts talking and D’s Pizza. Don’t forget to check out the trading parts, stories and ideas in the open Abita Mystery House (see Pg. 33), the field across from Abita Town Hall. Bikes of fun and wacky roadside attraction every description, some old, some very in- that created the event. The Mys- ventive, can be seen at the festival and on tery House is adjacent to the 31- the streets. The not-quite-impromptu pa- mile Tammany Trace bike path that rade/ride around town begins at noon and winds through the heart of Abita.

6 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM Don't miss... louisiana veterans festival Hosted by the East St. Tammany Habitat for Humanity, this is an all-day tribute for all veterans and includes live music by bands like the Top Cats. May 18 in Slidell’s Heritage Park. Admission free for vets.

white linen nights Covington and Slidell both host White Linen Nights celebrating art and culture. Slidell goes first with its event Aug. 10 in Olde Towne. Covington’s White Linen Night is the following week on Aug. 17 in its historic downtown. Free admission.

kokomo stroll Break out the flip flops and Hawai- ian shirts for this summer celebra- tion in the streets of downtown Buskers take the stage Covington and listen to some Don Each spring, this spirited little festival brings Ho-esque live music. Free admission street musicians, artists and food vendors but $20 gets you a Kokomo Stroll cup that gets filled up with “ together for full day of fun drinks” at stops along Columbia he Busker Festival is a full day of Sponsored by the Abita Springs Opry Street. 5-9 p.m. June 22. fun and eclectic music when some and the Jazz & Heritage of the New Orleans area’s best Foundation, the 2019 Busker Festival will mandeville live! T Bring lawn chairs and dancing shoes street performers (a.k.a. “buskers”) come be held from 11:30 a.m. till 7 p.m. on March play on a real stage in Abita Springs Trail- 24. The event is held concurrently with to this free concert series held at head Park. There’s no admission charge the Abita Springs Art and Farmers Market Mandeville’s Trailhead Amphitheater and there’s plenty of free parking. Lawn so there are food and craft vendors in the on Fridays in April. chairs and wonky dance moves allowed. park, too. a taste of covington Culinary events include wine tast- ings, dinner pairings at participating Look! Birds! restaurants and venues. ATOC hap- eight species of woodpecker call pens April 10-14. Prices vary. the Northshore home, including the elu- sive red-cockaded, but those are just a some enchanted evening few of the many birds would-be watchers with the lpo look for during the Great Louisiana Bird- The Louisiana Philharmonic Orches- Fest. St. Tammany Parish is considered a tra plays a free concert in Slidell’s flyway and each spring, seasonal visitors Heritage Park (Slidell Auditorium in such as the scarlet tanager, indigo bun- case of rain) on May 5. Enjoy great ting, ruby-throated hummingbirds and music out under the stars. numerous waterfowl drop in on residents like the great blue herons, great egrets, girod street stroll white ibis, raptors and others. Saunter down Old Mandeville’s Gi- Northlake Nature Center, a 400-acre rod Street and enjoy mint juleps and nature preserve in Mandeville, hosts tasting plates from local chefs. Live the Bird Fest, which is April 5-8, 2019. music, art and demos. To participate Register in advance for excursions and purchase your mint julep cup in classes. advance from area businesses. 5-9p.m. April 27.

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 7 Hear history live at the Dew Music brings a vibrant past to life at Old Mandeville’s world-famous 1895 jazz hall

he unpainted cypress structure The Dew Drop is still hosting fine re- Up next at doesn’t look like much from the gional musicians on its stage, brought in by T street, just a raised building with the Friends of the Dew Drop organization, the Dew Drop few windows, a pitched roof and an eas- which presents fall and spring concert se- March 23 ily missed marker out front. But the tiny ries there. The audience arrives early for Helen Gillet & Wazozo Dew Drop Jazz Hall looms large for aficio- prized seating on benches inside the little nados looking to understand the history building, while others set up lawn chairs April 6 of jazz. Area musicians say gigs there feel outside under large oaks and enjoy the Walter “Wolfman” Washington & the Roadmasters special, maybe even spiritual, and a devot- music spilling out old windows, shutters ed clutch of German jazz musicians makes opened wide. Purchase a glass of wine or April 20 the journey every couple of years just to an Abita Beer from a table out front, or a New Orleans Cottonmouth Kings play on the rustic stage of what is believed dinner plate from one of the church ladies to be the world’s oldest rural jazz hall. at First Free Mission Baptist next door. May 11 The Dew Drop Social and Benevolent There’s more than music in the air at Lost Bayou Ramblers Hall was opened in what is now Old Man- the Dew Drop. There’s magic. May 25 deville in 1895 by a group of civic-minded NOLA String Kings African-American residents as a venue Come see for yourself or check out Max Cusimano’s video of a live performance (John Rankin, Don Vappie and Matt Rhody) for raising funds for needy individuals at www.louisiananorthshore.com/dewdrop in the community. Located on the 400 block of Lamarque, just blocks from the Mandeville lakefront, the Dew Drop looks much as it did more than a century ago when musicians playing a new type of music called jazz took steamboats across the lake from New Orleans to play at the hall. Among them were early greats Bud- dy Petit and Kid Ory; later a young Louis Armstrong (whose family lived nearby) played there.

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GEORGE LONG

Roots music in all its glory Abita Springs’ Opry celebrates diverse music heritage of Louisiana in popular biannual concert series Learn Cajun he Abita Springs Opry has cele- March 16, April 20 and May 18. Though you don’t have to be cajun to “pass brated the best of Louisiana roots the lineup hadn’t been announced at press a good time” on the dance floor when the T music with its spring (and fall) time, past performers have included tal- Northshore Cajun Dancers convene at seasons of multi-performer shows play- ented acts like the Zion Harmonizers, Abita Springs’ Town Hall each month. ing bluegrass, country, gospel, jazz, blues, Cottonmouth Kings, Meschia Lake and Everyone is welcome to join in. Don’t Zydeco and Cajun music, often on the Slick Skillet Serenaders jug band. know how to Cajun dance but want to same bill. The public can gather to hear Abita’s Town Hall is a great venue, an learn? Free lessons are given from 7-7:30 impromptu music sessions on the Town intimate space seating fewer than 400 p.m. Live music from the likes of Bruce Hall front porch before taking a seat in- people. More than a century old, it fea- Daigrepont, Choupique and Lee Benoit side for the Opry performances. tures wood floors and pecky cypress walls commence at 8 p.m. ($11 cover charge). It’s Arrive early as shows often sell out and that make acoustic magic when the music a classically Cajun evening of joie de vivre, seating is first come, first served. Tickets starts. food and drink, with all ages and skill are $20. Spring 2019 Opry shows will be levels two-stepping across the floor.

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 9 ‘Painting gives me so much joy’ Christina Pappion blends art, family and sense of place in her feel-good, sun-filled Old Mandeville gallery by meghan holmes

hristina Pappion’s disposition is as sunny and welcom- The artist and her husband have two daughters, ages 5 and 8, ing as her Old Mandeville gallery, a space filled with who love spending time in the gallery. While she works on com- Cpaintings of New Orleans icons, handcrafted objects and missions, which comprise about two-thirds of her work, her the sound of jazz. Pappion has made a name for herself as an artist daughters like to paint, too. “They’re always trying to paint on for two unique talents: painting live events and custom-painting something,” she says. “They also like to run through the gallery athletes’ shoes. like bulls in a china shop, and I just hope things don’t fall.” A New Orleans native, the artist moved to the Northshore Since opening her gallery, Pappion’s career has flourished. She almost four years ago and opened Pappion Gallery, showcasing received publicity for her paintings of weddings and other events her vivid and color-saturated paintings as well as gifts and ac- and became the first woman of color hired to create the annual cessories she personally curates. The artist also hosts events like Crescent City Classic poster in 2017. She also started selling her painting classes and private parties in the space, encouraging art at Jazz Fest and designed 24 custom pairs of cleats for the people to gather. “I love that the Northshore is a tight-knit com- New Orleans Saints as part of the NFL’s My Cause, My Cleats ini- munity, and that family is important,” Pappion says. tiative, in which players showcase causes that are important to them with uniquely painted cleats. “I love that the “I actually attribute a lot of my success to the New Orleans Saints and being hired to do the cleats,” she says. “The entire Northshore is a tight- team gives my family so much joy. Painting also gives me so much joy. I feel so blessed to be able to do this, and so happy. I’ve painted knit community, and that on glass, canvas, and wood, and now I’ve painted on shoes, too. I can’t wait to see what happens next.” pappion gallery is at 413 family is important.” girod st., mandeville.

10 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM FIVE SPOTS

saladino gallery Regional gallery showcasing works by respected Southern artists. 409 e. boston st., covington

pineapple gallery Fine original works by local and regional artists. 829 asbury drive, mandeville city of slidell cultural center Visually striking City Hall gallery hosts multi- Fine local art is beautifully front and center artist shows and exhibitions. at established St. Tammany Art Association 2055 second st., slidell he St. Tammany Art Association district within blocks of the STAA build- rutland street gallery has been an important part of the ing. Six times a year, the STAA also hosts Paintings and fine crafts, Northshore’s cultural scene since the Covington Art Market in the space jewelry and more by T 1958. Housed in a 19th-century structure, dubbed Art Alley just outside its walls. local artists. STAA features two galleries in which to Juried works are offered for sale in the fes- 828 e. rutland st., covington showcase a variety of art, one for visiting tive scene held on first Saturdays in Spring exhibits, the other for members’ works. and Fall (October, November, December, sambola gallery The nonprofit organization’s mission is to March, April, May). In addition, it’s often Featuring works of showcase emerging and established art- at the center of interest for visitors stroll- Adam Sambola, inspired ists. It also offers classes for all ages. ing Columbia Street during the town’s Fall by Louisiana culture. The STAA is the hub of Covington’s vi- for Art and Spring for Art events and other 1808 front st., slidell sual arts scene, a scene which includes nu- street parties. staa, 320 n. columbia, merous respected galleries in the historic covington, (985) 892-8650

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 11 RENEE KIENTZ RENEE

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FIVE SPOTS

girod street Scavenge for vintage bounty near the lakefront. old mandeville

painted pelican Go for the old Fun antiques co-op open ev- Antiques shopping is super in historic districts, ery Friday-Sunday. and at street fairs showcasing everything vintage 1957 n. collins, covington

ntique shopping is a year-round food area and live music for when you need lee lane pursuit on the Northshore but the a break. Quaint cottages house treasure hunt intensifies in the Slidell hosts Street Fairs in the Spring charming antiques shops. A downtown covington spring with two street fairs focused on all and Fall. Dates for 2019 are Saturday and things antique and vintage. Sunday, March 30-31 and Oct. 26-27. On the east side of the parish, check The City of Covington, to the west, is clayton house antiques out the Olde Towne Slidell Antique Street home to the Antiques and Uniques Festi- Multi-dealer co-op offers Fair, a two-day shop-fest with more than val each spring. This year’s event will be antiques and accessories. 200 dealers selling furniture, glassware, Saturday and Sunday, April 27-28 in that 1600 n. collins, covington ephemera, art, vintage jewelry, toys, cloth- city’s historic district. In addition to deal- ing and collectibles. The dealers sprawl ers offering antiques, vintage items and olde town slidell across several blocks of the city’s Olde architectural salvage, there are Historic district home to Towne historic district. There’s no admis- tours, classic cars and food vendors. Free several antiques shops. sion charge. Parking is also free. There’s a admission and parking. first and erlanger streets

12 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM indulge Liz's Where Y'at Diner

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DAVID GALLENT

take a bite Life’s a feast on the Northshore, where the culinary perspective has been shaped by the area’s diverse cultures as well as the bounty of the bayou. Whether you choose poboys from a mom-and-pop shop or Gulf-inspired fare from talented chefs, there’s a great meal waiting for you.

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 13 ERIN AMADEO, COURTESY OF FATTY’S SEAFOOD

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The spice of life Around these parts, happiness is measured by the pound during crawfish season. Get ready to partake! amily life and social life in Lou- among them. The crawfish et al often are isiana both revolve around food dumped, steaming, onto a tall table that and nothing illustrates that bet- has been lined with newspaper and fami- F how to eat a crawfish ter than crawfish season. Arrivals of the ly and friends gather around, standing, to Hold the head with one year’s first sacks of crawfish usually mer- feast, drink, laugh and repeat. hand, grab the tail with it an announcement on the evening news, Visitors sometimes are invited to the other, grasping it high, kicking off a feeding frenzy that lasts for these convivial crawfish boils (or are close to where the two months. Though the season can vary a lit- lucky enough to take part in one at La- meet. Gently twist the tle, supplies are most plentiful and most combe’s Bayou Adventure, which some- tail and pull. The two will reliable from January to June. times hosts them for visiting groups like separate. If you’re feeling At peak season, around April, Louisi- Habitat for Humanity). But seafood mar- brave, suck the head anans celebrate spring with huge craw- kets and restaurants get in on the action, for spicy juices before fish boils, cooking up 30- and- 40-pound too, selling hot boiled crawfish by the setting it aside. Holding sacks of the crustaceans in cauldrons of pound. (Expect to eat, on average, 3-to-5 the tail, peel away the first spiced-up boiling water. There’s almost pounds each!) Crawfish aren’t just served couple of rings of shell, then pinch the tail at the always crab boil (usually Zatarain’s) in- boiled. You’ll find them in iconic Louisi- bottom. Slide the meat volved, and cayenne pepper. And salt, and ana dishes like crawfish etouffee or silky out and pop into your bisque, thrown into fettuccine and other lemons. Different cooks favor varied ad- mouth. ditions – corn on the cob, potatoes, mush- pasta dishes, battered and fried. rooms, whole garlic pods and sausage

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DAVID GALLENT

FIVE SPOTS

fatty’s seafood restaurant Boiled and fried seafood and crawfish etouffee, too. 1300 gause blvd., slidell

mandeville seafood market Take home or eat there at the popular market and restaurant. Crawfish fun 2020 la hwy 59, mandeville the northshore hosts several crawfish festivals each year. The biggest of kenney seafood those – maybe the biggest anywhere – is Boiled crawfish is among the Slidell’s Crawfish Cook-off, a fundraiser Northshore’s best. hosted by the Hospice Foundation of the 400 pontchartrain drive, South each April at the peak of crawfish slidell season. (It’s April 27 for 2019.) The event features 60 teams competing covington street seafood for honors and the title of “Best Crawfish Crawfish, poboys and more at in St. Tammany Parish.” By festival’s end, this market and eatery. those teams of master boilers will have 1123 columbia st., covington cooked up 45,000 pounds of crawfish. That’s more than 22 tons of the little lob- crabby shack restaurant ster lookalikes, all spicy and so delicious. It’s always hopping when the Best part is, the price of admission gets you crawfish pot is going. all the crawfish you can eat, live music and 305 la hwy 21, madisonville a fun day under the Louisiana sun.

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 15 Bon appétit, bon temps The Northshore’s diverse and deep restaurant scene cajun mike’s kitchen 64579 la 3081, pearl river feeds your hunger for authentic culinary experiences Owner Mike King summons up his Ca- jun heritage with Cajun specialties like alligator sauce piquante and boudin balls, as well as crawfish pie, jambalaya and file gumbo (order the Hank Wil- liams Bowl). All-you-can-eat fried cat- fish is popular, too.

del porto ristorante 501 e. boston, covington Included in New Orleans food critic’s list of top 10 restaurants in the New Orleans area, Del Porto is a local favorite for its emphasis on locally sourced ingredients and contemporary annadele’s plantation Italian fare. Husband-wife chef 71518 chestnut st, covington team David and Torre Solazzo Originally built in 1834 and now a B&B are three-time semifinalists for and event venue, Annadele’s is also known the James Beard Foundation’s for its namesake restaurant headed by Best Chef South award. One bite chef Ronald Bonnette. Classic Creole and of their stellar crudo, one spoon French-inspired fare like savory smoked of risotto, and you know why. shrimp cheesecake and seafood au gratin.

hambone 544 girod st., mandeville Chef Luke Hidalgo takes an upscale ap- proach to Gulf South comfort foods, tak- ing them to new heights. Think fried bou- din with crab boil mozzarella, decadent charbroiled oysters, a rockin’ gumbo … all served in a cute-as-can-be cottage.

16 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM dakota 629 n. highway 190, covington Chef Kim Kringlie still helms this grand dame of fine dining in Coving- ton. Kringlie’s signature crabmeat and Brie soup earns new fans daily and his take on contemporary Louisiana flavors produce stunners like crispy soft shell crab stuffed with shrimp and crawfish, served on pecan rice, and honey-glazed duck confit.

oxlot 9 waterstreet bistro 428 e. boston, covington 804 water st., madisonville Chef Jeffrey Hansell’s lovely dining space This locals favorite for weekend in downtown Covington’s Southern Hotel brunch or good Louisiana-inspired is a great showcase for the Gulf-inspired food any time comes with a view of contemporary Southern food. Killer fried the Tchefuncte River. The vibe is re- frog legs in hot sauce butter. Venison meat laxed. WaterStreet is a great spot to pies. Heritage pork chops. Hansell’s cre- enjoy dishes like blue crab claws in ativity and his deft touch with seafood and chardonnay butter sauce, grilled red- with meat make his ever-changing menu a fish, veal and pasta dishes. culinary adventure.

lola 517 n. new hampshire, covington Talented husband-wife chef team Keith gallagher’s and Nealy Frentz operate this dining locations in covington, room in Covington’s old train depot. mandeville and slidell The pair met when both were chefs at Longtime local favorite chef world-famous Brennan’s in New Orleans. Pat Gallagher knows his way House-made everything pleases LOLA’s around a steak. You may nev- lunch crowds with blue plate specials, er have a better filet served in great salads and desserts. Dinner is more sizzling butter. Expect divine upscale but fresh, smart, and creative — crab cakes and a deft touch and especially fun in LOLA’s darling vin- with Louisiana seafood like tage dining car. pompano and redfish, as well as Colorado rack of lamb and chargrilled quail.

palmettos on the bayou 1901 bayou lane, slidell sal & judy’s 27491 highway 190, lacombe The name describes the place, a large Acadian cabin on the banks of historic Sal Impastato still helms the kitchen at Bayou Bonfouca, lush with palmettos this Lacombe institution where Italy and iconic Louisiana greenery enjoyed meets Louisiana. There’s pasta, like veal from the decks. Enjoy gumbo, shrimp cannelloni and lasagna, even Broccolini and grits, crawfish beignets, trout aman- and Cappelletti (pasta stuffed with chick- dine, balsamic duck and on Sundays, a en and mortadella). But also trout Meu- live jazz brunch. niere and crabmeat au gratin.

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 17 You'll eat our words Confused by some of the items on the menu? Here’s a Louisiana lexicon to interpret for you ne glance at a menu and you know and sausage. Served with rice, it can be you’re in Louisiana, even if you light brown or dark as swamp water. Oaren’t familiar with the dishes. muffuletta: This traditional sandwich Here’s a brief primer to help you decipher takes its name from the crusty round Ital- local menus. ian bread it’s made with. Stuffed inside andouille: This flavorful, spicy sausage are several layers of ham, Genoa sausage, is a favorite in chicken and sausage gum- Provolone cheese and chopped olive salad. bo. (Pron. AHN-doo-ee) Eaten warm or cold, the giant sandwich bbq shrimp: Not what you think. It means usually serves two or more people. shrimp left in the shell and served almost paneed: Meaning coated in breadcrumbs submerged in a garlicky, peppery butter or dredged in flour and pan-fried gently in sauce. Crisp French bread helps you lap butter, as in paneed veal, chicken, frog legs up the butter. It’s messy. It’s fattening. It’s or oysters. (Pron. PAN-aid) okay; live a little. poboy: A long sandwich on crusty French boudin: Another sausage. Though there’s bread, a poboy really isn’t the same as a sub- boudin in France, the Louisiana version is marine or a hoagie. It can be ordered with a a regional specialty made with pork, rice variety of fillings, including the most pop- and seasonings. It’s often found in restau- ular: fried shrimp or oysters or long-sim- rants in the form of fried of boudin balls. mered roast beef slathered in gravy. dressed: If you order your poboy dressed, pralines: A simple candy that’s never- it means you want it “all the way,” which theless hard to make well. Most pralines means you want it with lettuce, tomato are made with sugar, butter, vanilla (or and pickle. other flavoring like rum) and nuts. (Pron. gumbo: You’ve heard this term, proba- PRAW-leen) bly tasted this Louisiana dish. Though red beans and rice: You’ll often see it’s popped up on menus across the U.S., this as a Monday special at restaurants you’re not likely to get the real thing harking back to the days when south Lou- outside of south Louisiana unless it was isiana women traditionally did the wash cooked for you by a transplanted native. on Mondays and needed something slow A dark, flavorful soup, real gumbo takes a and easy to ignore on the stove. Red beans long time to cook and requires a little voo- are kidney beans and here they’re slow- Sweet doo to do properly. Most gumbos are vari- cooked with seasoning meat til almost ations on two themes: seafood or chicken creamy, then served with white rice. memories a lot of the old town slidell soda Shop’s appeal can be explained by nos- talgia. You just don’t see places like this Chill with a Snowball much these days. But there’s more than sweet treats of shaved ice and flavored sentiment packing the quaint little store- syrup may be called snow cones in some parts of front in Slidell’s historic district. Maybe the planet, but here in Louisiana, we call them it’s the jumbo banana splits dripping snowballs and we take them seriously. Don’t butterscotch and fudge. Root beer floats. expect to choose from four or five flavors; Soda jerks in white shirts and caps take any snowball stand worthy of the name your order as you stand, childlike, in will offer at least 20 flavors and some 40 front of a magic case full of ice cream fla- or 50. Spearmint. Nectar. Wedding cake. vors like Creole cream cheese, Poncha- Pina colada. Coconut. Chocolate… Most toula Strawberry and Smores, all made stands are seasonal, but summer’s a long in house. You can order hot dogs and po- season here and there’s a stand in just about boys, too, but if you do, we suggest you every neighborhood, so watch for them. have dessert first. Live a little. 301 cousin st., slidell

18 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM KEVIN GARRETTKEVIN

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FIVE SPOTS

blind tiger Fish tacos, strong drinks and a vacation vibe overlooking the marina. Keepin’ it fresh and friendly 37330 lakeshore Flavors and influences of Louisiana meld in harmony at marina drive, slidell Covington’s popular nibble-as-you-go Farmers Market

lakehouse repare to yield to temptation. It’s sonal items like mirlitons (known else- Historic structure has lovely garden, patio bar and view okay. Really. The Covington Farm- where as chayote squash). of the lake. ers Market occurs each Saturday Don’t eat before you go. You can nosh 2025 lakeshore drive mandeville P , morning and is a panoply of pleasures, your way through the cultures that from beautiful locally grown produce shaped old Louisiana and new. Try Greek the chimes like sweet satsumas, Creole tomatoes skordalia, Italian cuccidati, Salvadoran Charbroiled oysters, burgers and beer on decks on the and heirloom figs, to artisan breads and pupusas and Middle Eastern falafel (hot Bogue Falaya River. other Louisiana specialties like stuffed from the fryer) while listening to live 19130 w. front st., covington artichokes and Delta tamales. music floating from the gazebo. Check Meet Nick Usner, an organic farmer out Mauthe’s creole cream cheese, an al- palmettos who supplies gorgeous produce like per- most lost food that earned the Slow Food Shaded decks give a great view of the banks of fect little squashes, hand-foraged chan- Movement’s first “Ark of Taste” award. Bayou Bonfouca. terelle mushrooms and just-picked okra. The market is held from 8 a.m.-noon 1901 bayou lane, slidell Linger over the table at Bear Creek Road Saturdays. Get there early for the best where stunning baked goods challenge selection of fresh-picked produce. 609 n. rips on the lake your will power. There are raw foods, columbia, covington Enjoy Louisiana fresh collards, Kombuchas, yard eggs, specialties overlooking A smaller market is held Wednesdays at the Covington Lake Pontchartrain. jams and jellies, aromatic spices, goat’s Trailhead and there also are markets in Slidell, Mandeville and 1917 lakeshore drive, mandeville milk cheese and caramel, herbs and sea- Abita Springs. For details, visit www.LouisianaNorthshore.com

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 19 Shaking it up in Covington covington, the culinary heart of the Northshore, has a compact-but-convinc- ing cocktail scene. Check out the small but creative bars at restaurants Oxlot 9, Del Porto and Lola, as well as the Cypress Bar in the Southern Hotel and Wharton’s, just down the street. If a wine bar’s more your thing, you’ll want to check out the Wine Garden in Slidell, a pleasant space with surpris- ingly good bites, as well as Barrel Wine in Covington and the new St. Ann Wine Let there be beer Bar in Mandeville. Tap into your happy place at one of the Northshore’s pubs, brewery tours and tastings

hat started in 1986 as a tiny (and sometimes by bike, arriving via the little operation in a local pub nearby Tammany Trace bike path) to W in Abita Springs has grown taste favorites like Purple Haze and Tur- into the country’s 14th largest craft brew- bodog at the source. ery – and one of the Northshore’s most Self-guided tours are free; guided popular tourist attractions. Abita beer tours with tastings are $5. The visitor now is found in all 50 states and beyond, center and gift shop are open seven days a expanding its fan base and attracting vis- week and the welcoming taproom makes itors from across the planet. it easy for anyone to belly up and taste Imbibers come by car and by tour bus what master brewers, Artesian water and three decades of experience can produce. The Northshore is represented on the Louisiana Brewery Trail by Abita as well Hottest table as the small but respected Chafunkta diners are vying for dibs on this Brewing Company. Chafunkta turns out gorgeous table in Lola’s newest dining beer with names like Kingfish Ale and space. The popular Covington restaurant Old 504 (porter) and has a strong local introduced its new dining room in Febru- following. Chafunka’s taproom is open ary. Housed in a refurbished vintage train Thurs-Sunday for tastings. And the brew- car, the dining room is a great spot for ery hosts a Saturday bike crawl, too. Check lunch or a romantic dinner. Lola, operated with the brewery for times. Or stop by Old by chefs Keith and Nealy Frentz, is located Rail Brewing Company, or the Barley Oak, in Covington’s old train depot so the din- two fun Mandeville brew pubs, to sample ing car is a natural and charming addition. everyone’s wares in one spot. 517 n. new hampshire, covington

20 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM adventure

experiences Get in touch with your inner adventurer on the Northshore where you can go biking, hiking, fishing and all year ’round. Rent

PHOTO gear or take a tour but get

KEVIN GARRETT out there and play.

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 21 Rollin' on the river Tubing down the scenic Bogue Chitto a favorite way to spend a Northshore summer day by meghan holmes

he Bogue Chitto River is a tribu- quite shallow. The river is also relatively tary of the Pearl, which serves as clear, despite the sandy, shifting bottom Tthe dividing line between Missis- that characterizes rivers in this region. sippi’s southern tip and Louisiana’s Flor- Currents shift the sand from shore to ida parishes. The Choctaw named the shore over time, creating large sandbars Bogue Chitto, or “Big Creek,” and traveled that are perfect for lounging riverside. up and down the length of the Pearl and Cow pastures and the occasional camp into the surrounding delta to trade with line the river’s edge, and turtles perched other Native Americans in the region. on downed limbs are a common sight. Today’s river traffic is often of a differ- Egrets and bald eagles may also make an ent variety, more about recreation than appearance, but Bonnette explains that, commerce. The river is among the re- “We are doing a lot of business on this gion’s most popular tubing destinations, part of the river, so there isn’t a whole a great spot to enjoy warm sun and cool, lot of wildlife. You’re out in the country, gently flowing water. Several outfitters enjoying the water and time with friends make it easy for visitors to grab a tube and family.” and let the Bogue Chitto’s meandering Tubing trips typically cost around $20 current do the work for them as they float per person, per tube, and take most of the a mile or two downstream. day, meaning hours spent in direct sun- “It’s one of the best ways to have lazy, light. Sunscreen, as well as sun hats and clean, fun,” says Ragan Bonnette, who co- glasses, are recommended. Visitors also owns Louisiana River Adventures with wear water-appropriate shoes for explor- his wife, Haley. “You come out and rent ing sand bars and shoreline. Ice chests one of our tubes and we shuttle you on an with food and drink can be floated down- old school bus upriver. There are two- and stream. You can drink alcohol on the riv-

four-hour trips, depending on how far we er, but remember to stay hydrated and be PHOTO take you upstream. A lot of people also aware of your surroundings. spend time on the sand bars alongside the “I’ve seen some people start the trip KEVIN GARRETT water, having lunch and relaxing, and that and end it as two different people,” Bon- adds additional time to the float.” nette says, laughing. “But honestly, this is The Bogue Chitto isn’t particularly also the perfect family-friendly activity. deep, typically four feet or so, though it’s We have people who come from all over deeper in some places while others are the world to see the river.”

22 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM OUTFITTERS

louisiana river adventures Opens 9 a.m. with last float at 4 p.m. Open April-September. Two- to 4-hour floats; shuttles. louisianariveradventures.com

bogue chitto tubing center Opens 9 a.m. All floats must be complete by 7pm. Open seasonally beginning in April No children under age 5 can tube boguechitto.com

rocky bottom tubing and canoeing Located inside Bogue Chitto State Park, opens at 7 a.m. with tubes for seasonal day use Tubes can also be dropped off and picked up at rental cabins in the state park facebook.com/rockbottomtube

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 23 GEAUX GREEN Bask in the beauty of the verdant Northshore

24 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM Boardwalk at Northlake Nature Center, Mandeville

GEAUX GREEN

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 25 On the road to discovery Explore the Northshore from the winding Tammany Patrick Brooks of Trace hike-bike trail story and photos by kevin garrett Brooks’ Bike Shop he Tammany Trace, Louisiana’s Visitors can rent bikes at Brooks’ Bike first rail-trail pathway, is the per- Shop, conveniently located at the start of Tfect way to explore St. Tammany the Trace in downtown Covington. You Parish. Adapted from a former Illinois might want to explore the historic district Central Railroad corridor, this flat as- before hitting the Trace. Dotted with bou- phalt ribbon – a favorite with cyclists tiques, galleries, restaurants, coffee shops and hikers -- winds its way for almost 31 and little museums (check out HJ Smith & miles through piney woods and moss- Sons General Store & Museum), Coving- draped live oaks from Covington, to Abi- ton also has a fun farmers market twice a ta Springs, Mandeville, Lacombe, and on week, great for picking up snacks for the to Slidell. Trace and mingling with the locals. The Trace is a magic carpet ride Several breweries and brew pubs are through a place rich with natural beauty found along or near the Trace, including and residents happy to share their vibrant Abita Beer, Tchefuncte Brewery and the heritage with visitors. All skill-level bike Old Rail Brewing Company. Also adja- riders will find the Trace a comfort zone. cent to the Trace and just 3.5 miles from (No motorized vehicles are allowed.) Be- Covington, the Abita Brew Pub in Abita tween towns, you may be accompanied by Springs offers patio seating with views red-shouldered hawks and ospreys flying of the trail, pub food and tasting flights overhead and herons and egrets hunting in of Abita Beer. While in Abita, park and the marsh. If the silence is broken, it’s by a check out the Abita Mystery House, a chorus of bullfrogs croaking in the bayou. quirky folk museum housed in an old gas Bikers range from compression-pant-clad station. (See pg 33.) Tour de France dreamers whizzing by on Continuing south from Abita toward racing bikes to families leisurely pedaling Lake Pontchartrain and Mandeville, on their cruisers. you’ll pass through lovely green spaces

26 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM WHERE TO RENT BIKES and see the Trace’s official trailhead just ish marshes, bayous, and cypress tupelo brooks’ bike shop north of Interstate 12. Riding on, pass forest offer shelter to creatures such as Wheel guru Patrick Brooks op- through a tunnel under I-12 to Man- red-cockaded woodpecker, wood ducks, erates two bike shops on the deville’s Trailhead, now a little park with deer, mink, otter, and alligators. Northshore, one in Mandeville museum, amphitheater, splash fountain Break for refreshments at Lacombe’s near the lakefront and another and Saturday community market. At Bayou Adventure, a short hop from the in downatown Covington at the site of the town’s old train depot, the Trace. The one-stop shop serves as out- the start of the Tammany Trailhead has become the heart of the post and outfitter, with bait, cold drinks, Trace bike path. Brooks’ historic district. hot pizza and even gear rentals, including offers bike rentals for all ages Leave the Trace for a short jaunt on bikes, as well as advice for your ride. and you can even pick out the Trace’s spur along the Mandeville Leaving Lacombe, you’ll continue on your bike in advance online. lakefront which takes riders past elegant toward Slidell and the end of the Trace. You can also sign up for tours 19th-century homes and old moss-hung Though the path currently stops short of (with as few as three people) oaks before connecting with the main the city’s historic district, there are plans of the Tammany Trace, Old trail again and heading toward Fontaine- to eventually extend the Trace all the way Covington, Old Mandeville and bleau State Park. Look for photo ops at the into Olde Towne Slidell’s Heritage Park. there’s even a Breweries tour 2,800-acre park’s sandy beach, brick ruins Some things to know: The Trace is by bike. brooksbikeshop.com of an 1829 sugar mill or among the majes- open dawn to dusk. Travel from one end tic moss-draped live oaks. to the other and cross 31 bridges built bayou adventure Rolling on, between the park and the over the old railroad trestles. In 2017, Rent bikes for the whole small fishing town of Lacombe, bikers the Trace was inducted into the Rails- family at this one-stop outpost find the peaceful stretch of the wetlands to-Trails Conservancy’s Hall of Fame. for Northshore exploration. of Big Branch Marsh National Wildlife The Conservancy declared the Trace had Kayak rentals and guided Refuge. Encompassing 18,000 acres along “scenic beauty, historical significance, paddling tours, too. the Northshore between Mandeville and exemplary management and plentiful bayouadventure.com Slidell, the Refuge’s freshwater and brack- trailside amenities.”

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 27 Fun is catching fishing’s a favorite pastime on the Northshore and a fun activity year-round Ready to paddle for families who can throw out a line from Lake Road’s marshy banks in Lacombe, the bayou? Sunset Pier in Mandeville, or from the St. Outfitters make it easy with and kayak rentals Tammany Parish Fishing Pier in Slidell. and guided tours through the Louisiana waterscape But there’s action for serious anglers, too, thanks to the many charter captains ith scenic rivers, bayous pace. Enjoy the scenery -- watch for os- working out of Northshore marinas. and Lake Pontchartrain to prey and eagles, boar on the banks and With easy access to the Lake Pontchar- W explore, the Northshore is alligators in the reeds under moss-draped train, Lake Borgne, the Rigolets Pass and a great spot for paddlers, especially in branches – or try your luck fishing from the Biloxi Marsh, charters are a great way spring and summer when nature is at its your kayak. Bayou Adventure is your one- to spend the day on the water. Area cap- most beautiful. stop shop for bait, snacks and gear (rent tains know where to go for trophy trout, There are a number of easily accessi- or buy) and they’re happy to share their record redfish, largemouth bass and ble launch spots across the area. You can expansive knowledge of the area’s water- more. Some, like Mike Gallo of Angling bring your own gear but you don’t have ways with visitors. Adventures of Louisiana and Dudley Van- to. , and paddleboards are denborre, famous for his Deadly Dudley available for rent at several locations and lures, make regular appearances on Loui- there are tour operators happy to take you siana fishing shows, sharing expertise and out for a day on the water. Or an evening. tips on where fish are biting. Two operators – Canoe and Trail and Bay- ou Adventure – both offer sunset paddles basic info: Charters often start just be- down Cane Bayou to the lake just in time fore daylight and end early afternoon. to catch the glorious pink, purple and gold Most charters can carry five or six peo- sunsets we have come to expect here but ple. You don’t need to know the difference never tire of seeing. between spinnerbait and jigging spoons; A guide is great for pointing out the most welcome anglers of all skill levels and wildlife along the way and sharing knowl- all ages, too. You’ll need to make a reser- edge about the bayou but a serene paddle vation. You won’t have to clean your fish; on your own lets you explore at your own your captain does that for you.

28 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM Stand up out on the water fun for all ages, stand-up paddleboarding has been growing rapid- ly on the Northshore. Watch for paddle- boarders on Lake Pontchartrain and in the Tchefuncte River. You can rent pad- dleboards at several locations, including the Abita Board Barn, Seal Sports, Brooks' Bike Shop and Bayou Adventure. A couple more favorite paddleboarding spots: the gentle waters just off the sandy beach at Fontainebleau State Park and the shallow Bogue Falaya River as it flows into Cov- ington. Paddleboarders here often stop for a burger and beer break at The Chimes along the river’s verdant banks.

Honey Island Swamp a must-see Tour take visitors for up-close encounters with nature’s beauty and a few of its beasts

he Honey Island Swamp, on the Cajun Encounters, take visitors into the northeast edge of St. Tammany Honey Island Swamp (and yes, bring them TParish, is pristine and lovely, es- out, too). Reservations are a good idea. pecially in the spring when cypress trees Most tours run about two hours and are go from dormant to brilliant green. Ev- given on easy-to-board boats launching erything surges to life, the flora and espe- from Slidell. cially the fauna; there are deer and boar, The Honey Island Swamp encompass- and nutria, and an abundance of es almost 70,000 acres, more than half of bird life circling, soaring, building nests. which is preserved for posterity as part You’ll see turtles, too, sometimes sev- of the Pearl River Wildlife Management eral of them, soaking in sunshine from Area. Keep an eye out for pileated wood- the tops of old logs. And yes, there are ga- peckers and great blue herons stalking a tors. Watching warily from muddy banks, bullfrog dinner. And for the Honey Island cruising by your tour boat with curios- Swamp Monster, a -like creature MARK SALVETTI SALVETTI MARK

ity. Several tour companies, including some say has called the marsh home for PHOTO Dr. Wagner’s, Pearl River Eco-Tours and centuries.

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 29 explore KEVIN GARRETTKEVIN

PHOTO

come on in Make the acquaintance of a zebra at the country’s largest free-roaming wildlife park. Hatch a baby reptile in your hand at a gator farm. Take a hike or a swim at a Northshore park. There’s a lot to discover. GATOR FACTS • The averages about 800 pounds and can be 10-15 feet long, though the largest ever re- corded was found here in Louisiana and measured 19.2 feet.

• Alligators can run about 20 miles per hour in short bursts.

• The state’s alligator population is around two million, the most of any state. After population declines by the mid-20th century, harvest quo- tas were put into place. Populations now are at sustainable levels.

• Diet consists mostly of fish, turtles, small mammals and birds, though alligators have been known to attack dogs, deer and on rare occasions, hu- Plenty o' gators, baby mans. Learn all about Louisiana’s favorite reptile, • Alligators today represent a $50 mil- even hatch one in your hand, at Insta-Gator Ranch lion industry for Louisiana. Shoes, purses and other items of alligator f you’re interested in alligators — ervation to actually hatch a baby gator in skin fetch high prices and the meat, and, really, who isn’t? — we’ve got your hand! It’s quite an experience to hold which is classified as seafood (but, Ithe place for you. Insta-Gator Ranch an egg and see the little creatures emerge yes, tastes like chicken), is increas- and Hatchery near Covington is home to from the shell. ingly offered in restaurants. more than 2,000 alligators and a few hu- Visitors hear all about the harvesting mans who interact with them. Insta-Ga- of gator eggs, often from area waterways • Mating season is April to May. Fe- tor offers fun and educational tours and like Bayou Castine, and watch a video be- males build a nest and lay 20-60 eggs, program that will teach you all about the fore visiting alligators in tanks in their then cover the nest with vegetation prehistoric reptiles and even give you a covered barns. There’s a touch pool and and hang out til August when eggs chance to touch one. gift shop at Insta-gator, too, where they begin to hatch. The ranch is open year-round but is like to say you’ll learn everything about more active when the gators are. Spring the American alligator from “hatchling • As a species, alligators have been and summer are great times to visit, es- to handbag.” around for about 37 million years. pecially August when you can make a res-

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 31

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BILL LANG BILL

Play, explore, relax Enjoy sandy beaches, nature walks, birding and more in the Northshore’s many parks and wilderness preserves

here are more than 80,000 acres spring (BirdFest 2019 will be April 5-8; of green space in St. Tammany details on pg 7). TParish, not the least of which is ac- Fairview-Riverside State Park is in cessible and easily enjoyed through parks Madisonville on the banks of the Tche- and reserves. functe River. At not quite 100 acres, the Fontainebleau State Park is 4,000 park is smaller but offers a campground, gorgeous lakefront acres on what formerly plus fishing, hiking and pretty grounds. was the site of an early 19th century sugar The Otis House Museum, within the park plantation. You can still see the ruins of and offering tours, was built in 1885 and Bernard de Marigny’s sugar mill, as well placed on the National Register of Historic as giant moss-draped oaks and wildlife. Places in 1999. There are camping areas, a sandy beach, Over in Lacombe, Big Branch Marsh pavilions, walking trails and a boardwalk, National Wildlife Reserve is a great as well as cabins built on stilts over the place to get out in nature, offering 15,000 lake. Kayak, hike, bike, fish or just relax. acres of south Louisiana ecosystems. Nearby is lovely Northlake Nature Visitors enjoy hiking, fishing and birding Center, a 400-acre preserve located along along its waterways and trails. The two- the banks of Bayou Castine. There are mile Boy Scout Road Interpretive Trail about 7 miles of trails taking you through includes a boardwalk and overlook at three different eco-systems. Among the Bayou Lacombe. sights: a grove of giant magnolias, board- Other spots to check out are the Lake walk overlooking a beaver lodge, and, if Ramsey Savannah WMA and the Na- you’re lucky, you might catch a glimpse ture Conservancy’s Abita Creek Flat- of the center’s flock of wild turkeys. NNC woods Preserve which features a Pitcher hosts the Great Louisiana BirdFest each Plant Boardwalk.

32 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM WHILE IN ABITA It's a mystery (house) Check out these local hotspots. Prepare to be amused — and maybe confused — at Abita’s wonderful and wacky roadside attraction abita brew pub This cool spot in the heart of he Abita Mystery House celebrates When you visit the little museum, enjoy town was the original home of itself as Louisiana’s “most eccen- the place at face value or cogitate on the Abita Brewery before it outgrew tric museum” and likely is. The Nature of Art, just not too hard. Bring your the space and moved a short T funky-licious little place, cool and goofy at sense of humor. And three bucks. Because way down the road. (See Pg. 20) the same time, is a short stroll from Abita that’s what it costs to get in at the Mystery There’s good casual food, a great Springs Town Hall and has welcomed the House, where “everyone is welcome, even mural and some of the original curious from all over the world. your family.” 22275 highway 36, abita brewing equipment. And beer. Sprung from the brain of Abita im- springs abita springs art presario/artist John Preble, the Mystery and farmers market House is a roadside attraction-like empo- Held noon-4 p.m. each Sunday rium crammed with outsider art, South- at the Trailhead park, the market ern wit and the flotsam and jetsam of features prepared food, produce, modern life. Fun for all ages, the Mystery arts and crafts, live music and House has hands-on exhibits, dioramas who knows what else you’ll find. with moving parts, mythical creatures Fun, friendly and free. like the Bassigator (half fish, half gator) and the Dogigator (half dog, half … you maple street bakery know), and what may be the state’s best A sweet little bake shop, Maple gift shop. Street is known for specialty cake Preble’s fertile imagination has birthed and baked goods like apple turn- some of Abita Springs’ most fun and quint- overs and muffins. Take a break essentially Abita events, including the and treat yourself while contem- Whole Town Garage Sale, the Bicycle Fes- plating the 100-plus-year-old tival and the delightfully wacky Push Mow cottage’s reputation as haunted. Mardi Gras parade.

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 33 You'll go wild for Global Pet, feed and commune with exotic animals at the country’s largest free-roaming wildlife preserve

he excitement builds on the ap- 4x4 vehicles put guests eye level with proach. Scenery along rural, tree- Global’s inhabitants who often follow Tlined Highway 40, as it ribbons or surround the vehicle. through the northwestern corner of St. Stroke a giraffe’s neck as Tammany Parish, begins subtly to change. she leans over your shoul- Suddenly open grassland resembles an Af- der. Amazingly beautiful rican savanna – and in more ways than up close, the giraffes are one. The sight of decidedly not native persistent — they want that creatures — zebras and Father David deer, corn! — but gentle. Touch giraffes and elands — signal that you are the massive, wooly head about to enter a special place. of an American bison, or Global Wildlife Center is the largest the horn of Watusi cattle, free-roaming wildlife preserve in the as it feeds from your hand. U.S., home to more than 4,000 exotic and Deer, llamas and zebras endangered animals living on 900 scenic come up close, and gaggles acres. Visitors have two options to explore of fat geese waddle at top Global. Many opt for the safari tours in speed behind the Pinz as it large motorized wagons that travel the pulls away.

grounds, providing on-high views and the Safari tours are giv- PHOTO opportunity to toss feed to many of the an- en several times daily;

imals as they approach the wagon. Pinzgauer tours require (2) GARRETT KEVIN The private Pinzgauer tours are a great reservations. Both make choice for families and animal lovers who unforgettable memories want a unique and once-in-a-lifetime en- for kids of all ages. 26389 counter. Seating up to eight people, the highway 40, folsom

34 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM connect

looking back

Northshore residents live among the ghosts of St. Tammany’s past. Experience history at places like the Lang House or follow in the footsteps of noted author and RENEE KIENTZ RENEE Covington resident Walker Percy. PHOTO

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 35 St. Tammany timeline

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RENEE KIENTZ

A new home for history After renovations and updates, the Bayou Lacombe Museum reopens to showcase the area’s fascinating, diverse heritage Don't miss... lake pontchartrain basin maritime istory and culture meet in the Ima,” meaning “like a Choctaw.” Others museum: Explore the area’s rich mar- newly reopened Bayou Lacombe showcase rural life, as well as the prima- itime history via a film, detailed ex- Museum. Housed in the old- ry industries that built the town (lumber, hibits and boat models. Learn more H about the 1837 Tchefuncte River est existing wooden schoolhouse in St. brickmaking, crabbing, boat-building Tammany Parish, the museum is locat- shipping goods to New Orleans). The lit- lighthouse and visit the lighthouse ed at 61115 St. Mary St. in the hamlet of tle museum’s Hall of Heroes is dedicated keeper’s restored home. The muse- um hosts the popular Wooden Boat Lacombe. Originally a two-room school- to residents who served in the military. Festival each October. house, the building was constructed in After serving as a school for decades, 133 mabel drive, madisonville 1912 and is on the National Register of the building was used as a museum and Historic Places. community center for more than 40 years Situated along Bayou Lacombe in the before closing a few years ago. After up- slidell museum: Housed in the old heart of St. Tammany Parish, the little dates and renovations to repair termite town’s jail, the museum displays two community played an important early damage, the Bayou Lacombe Museum re- floors of photos and memorabilia role in the development of the region, pro- opened in February. The reopening was a from Slidell’s history as well as the viding materials like timber and clay (for labor of love for many donors, volunteers South’s role in the Civil War. Also on bricks) to build the growing city of New and other Lacombe residents who col- site is the Mardi Gras Museum, with Orleans in its early years. French colo- lected and organized artifacts, designed more than 800 Carnival items. nists settled in the area, and along with and built exhibits and raised funding. 2020 first st., slidell the Choctaw, and later African-Ameri- Today the museum is a welcoming cans, formed a new and unique population space with high ceilings, tall windows otis house museum: Guided tours of and beautiful old wooden floors. The whose descendants still live there today. this late 19th-century lumber baron’s Museum exhibits explore 18th-, 19th- museum is open Thursday-Sunday, so home include memorabilia and pho- and 20th-century life in Lacombe. Some stop by. Admission is $3 for adults, $2 for tographs from the area. The home is feature the Choctaw and their beloved seniors, and free for children under 12 on the grounds of Fairview-Riverside Father Adrien Rouquette, a Catholic mis- accompanied by an adult, as well as for State Park. sionary they would come to call “Chahta- school groups. 119 fairview drive, madisonville

36 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM St. Tammany timeline Originally home to Choctaw and other tribes, the parish has been shaped by various cultures and events

The Choctaw inhabit the north- ern shore of Lake Pontchar- train, which they called Ok- wa’ta (meaning “wide water”). 1600 B.C.1600

Explorers Pierre LeMoyne PHOTO Sieur d’Iberville and Jean

RENEE KIENTZ Batiste LeMoyne Sieur de Bien- 1699 ville check out the Northshore.

The U.S. acquires 828,000 square miles of territory in the Louisiana Purchase, which does 1803 not include St. Tammany Parish. Walk through

The Republic of West Florida is Mandeville's past formed to revolt against Span- Learn about 19th-century life in the lakefront ish authority in the area — and town via tours of the Jean Baptiste Lang House 1810 lasts 74 days. rom the street, the Jean Baptiste it was built in the early 1850s, believed Lang House looks perfectly suited to have been finished in 1852, by Bel- to its site, blending gracefully into gian-born Jean Baptiste Lang, a pros- Louisiana admitted to the F this historic Old Mandeville neighbor- perous tobacconist who operated two Union in April. West Florida hood as if it had held that spot for all of its shops in New Orleans’ French Quarter. resists but becomes part of 1812 160-plus years. Picket fence, welcoming The little cottage was meant to be a sum- the state five months later. porch. As nestled into its environs as it is, mer home, as were many in Mandeville; the Lang House didn’t begin its life here wealthy New Orleanians used the North- on Carroll Street. shore as a means to get away from the Bernard de Marigny builds A classic example of an indigenous city’s brutal summer heat, mosquitoes sugar plantation (now Fontaine- architectural style, the Anglo-Creole and yellow fever. Lang, also escaping a bleau State Park), then founds

1830 cottage, the Lang House was a raggedy nasty divorce, resided there off and on for Mandeville a few miles west. mess, porch mangled, boards missing, almost a decade before returning to his after hurricane Katrina pushed flood native Belgium just before the start of the waters into the structure where it stood Civil War. He died in 1861. Tourism boom begins in Abita on its original site along the Mandeville On tours, museum curator Adele Fos- Springs when a doctor declares lakefront. Facing demolition, the little ter points out the mortise and tenon con- the area’s local springs have

1887 house was rescued in 2011 via a cooper- struction, exposed scarf joints, original restorative qualities. ative endeavor between the City of Man- box columns and walls of shiplap cypress deville and the newly formed Old Man- planking. Some portions of the walls have deville Historic Association, moving it a faux bois (literally meaning ‘fake wood’), First span of the 24-mile Pont- few blocks inland. Today, restored, the a technique of hand painting on graining chartrain Causeway is built, cottage has become the Jean Baptiste to replicate more expensive woods. Tours creating the longest continuous are free, though donations are welcomed. 1956 Lang House Museum, offering a unique bridge over water in the world. glimpse into the history of Mandeville. 605 carroll st., mandeville Tour the Lang House and learn that

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 37 The Walker Percy Trail You can still trace the footsteps of this Covington resident and National Book Award winner Born in Alabama in 1916, noted author Walker Percy moved to Covington on the North- shore in 1948. It was here that he wrote his most famous books, including “The Mov- iegoer,” which won a National Book Award in 1962, as well as “Last Gentleman,” “The Second Coming,” and “Love in the Ruins.” The philosophical novelist was a devout Catholic, devoted to his family and reportedly fond of bourbon and naps. mandeville lived a short distance from the park, near 2025 lakeshore drive: Currently The 8th Street and Jahncke. Lakehouse Restaurant, the structure built highway 21 just south of oswald in 1834 by Bernard de Marigny was for de- road: Another historic marker denotes cades known as Bechac’s. The lakefront the ‘Original Homestead of Walker Per- restaurant was a favorite gathering spot cy,” the property he first bought in 1948 for Percy who met friends for lunch there when he moved to Covington. The marker every Thursday. Among those friends is on the lefthand side of the highway, also was Bill Binnings, a noted artist who lat- known as Military Road, if you’re driving er would create the two bronze statues of north. Percy erected in honor of the writer. Today 2 pinecrest drive: A creature of habit, you can still sip a cocktail, enjoy lunch and Percy met his brother Phinizy “Phin” Per- a view of the lake, just as Percy did often. cy and friends for lunch every Wednesday here, at Tchefuncta Country Club. covington boston st. at lee lane: A Louisiana st. benedict Historic Marker denotes details of Per- 75376 river road: St. Joseph’s Abbey. cy’s life and residence in Covington. The Percy is buried in the small cemetery at marker is less than a block from where this Benedictine Abbey just northeast of Percy maintained an office in his daugh- Covington. His gravesite is marked by a ter’s book shop. (See next item.) small, plain stone. Percy served as a sec- 228 lee lane: Now a boutique called the ular oblate of the Abbey, spending much French Mix, this quaint cottage formerly time there in contemplation. housed the Kumquat Book Shop, owned by Percy’s daughter. The author often madisonville wrote upstairs in his little office on the 1123 main st.: Stop here, at the Madison- shop’s second floor. ville branch library, to visit with a large 213 park drive: One of Bill Binnings’ bronze statue of Percy seated on a bench statues of Percy stands in Bogue Falaya with his beloved Corgi, Sweet Thing. The Wayside Park in downtown Covington. sculpture, by artist and Percy friend Bin- The 9-foot-tall bronze sculpture depicts nings, sits in the library’s Serenity Circle Percy standing in a doorway. Percy and outside its main entrance. his wife Mary Bernice “Bunt” Townsend

38 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM splurge

treat yourself Some of us just love to shop,

PHOTO ya know? You’ll find plenty of

ERIC LINDBERG shopping ops on the North- shore, so let’s go!

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 39 Find eclectic goods and greenery at the Lemon Tree.

FIVE SPOTS

fremaux town center, slidell Tenants at this sprawling center include Best Buy, Dillards, Dick’s Sporting Goods, TJ Maxx and numerous restaurants. Located off the Fremaux exit. (If you’re looking for antiques, head to Olde Towne Slidell, a few minutes away.)

downtown covington The town’s historic district is a walkable feast for shopahol- ics, with quaint streets, cottage boutiques, restaurants, galleries and so much more. Check out Spend a day in Old Mandeville Lee Lane, Rutland and Colum- Find charming boutiques, fun-to-browse antiques shops bia streets for sure. You’ll find on and near walkable historic district’s quaint Girod Street antiques, art, jewelry, gift items, ear that? It’s the siren call from lilies, greenery and pots but also house- clothing and free parking, too. Old Mandeville’s little stretch wares, jewelry, vintage items and more. of shops along Girod Street. An Girod Street is the heart of historic Old premier shopping centers, H mandeville assortment of shopping opportunities are Mandeville, a charming walkable district found in the cute 19th century cottages with restaurants, bed and breakfasts and The Gap, Old Navy, Banana Re- lining the blocks down to the lakefront. oak-lined lakefront. public and Ann Taylor Loft are Shop for clothing and accesso- among the shops at this large ries at Cameo Boutique. Antique center on Highway 190. hunters will find plenty to peruse in Mae’s, where you’ll discov- river chase shopping center, er some very laid-back Scotties covington wandering the rooms crammed Located at I-12 and Highway with vintage stuff. Buy Louisi- 21, the center beckons with ana-themed art and gift items at Best Buy, Marshall’s, Tar- the welcoming Pappion Gallery get, Lane Bryant and more. or a Bavarian nutcracker at Das (Restaurants and a multiplex Schulerhaus where it’s Christ- movie theater, too.) mas all year-round. Just off Girod Street on Jeffer- pinnacle nord du lac, son, check out the Lemon Tree. covington The great little shop bills itself Find Kohl’s, Kirkland’s and as a “floral, garden and interi- Academy here, as well as s ors boutique,” and the inventory pecialty shops like Ban Soleil changes daily. There are gorgeous and Bra Genie. Restaurants, fresh blooms like peonies and lodging and more coming. I-12 at Pinnacle Parkway.

40 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM Palmettos grow wild in the Northshore’s marshland and forests.

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LANA GRAMLICH LANA 10 Things to Do on LOUISIANA’S NORTHSHORE

Whether you’re looking for priceless and free activities, girlfriends’ getaways ideas, things to do with the kids, or ways to enjoy our waterways, we’ve got suggestions for you to build your perfect trip around. Start planning at: louisiananorthshore.com/things-to-do/top-ten