Come Celebrate with Us Catch Mardi Gras Fever | Eat Like a Local | Tour the Swamp

come celebrate with us catch mardi gras fever | eat like a local | tour the swamp

Explorethe northshore

Fall/Winter 2018-’19 1078

Lake Pontchartrain 24 lovely, dark and deep 02 editor's letter Located on the eastern edge of St. Tammany Parish, on the Mississippi/Louisiana border, the Honey Island Swamp is 04 celebrate a beautiful place of lore and history and wildlife. Boar, deer, Festivals, street parties, antiques fairs, gators and birds extend a Louisiana welcome to the tour boats concerts on the lakefront … There’s always a plying murky waters to explore the swamp’s many mysteries. reason to celebrate on the Northshore. The swamp probably isn’t what you think. It’s more. It’s surprising. And it’s at risk. 13 indulge Grab a seat for po-boys, boiled crawfish and contemporary Coastal fare. You’ll need sustenance for those grueling brewery tours.

21 adventure Feeding a giraffe at the inspiring Global Wild- life Center or paddling a kayak down the bayou are just two experiences you’ll remember.

32 explore Cycle the Tammany Trace, wander board- walks and down park trails or expand your horizons at the Abita Mystery House.

36 connect Northshore museums and historic points of interest shed light on cultures and events that shaped St. Tammany Parish.

39 splurge Urge to splurge? Check out Northshore boutiques, malls and shopping districts for everything from souvenirs to varied treasures.

PHOTO

KEVIN GARRETT

about the cover Northshore native, fiddler and singer Amanda Shaw turns up the joy at Pontchartrain Vineyards’ Jazz’n the Vines, just one of the many concerts, festivals and feasts here on the Northshore.

photo by kevin garrett kevingarrett.com

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 1 from the editor

Explorethe northshore

EDITOR Grace, Renée Kientz ART Katie Clancy

CONTRIBUTORS spice, Christina Cooper, Max Cusimano, Cheryl Gerber, Lana Gramlich, David Gallent, Roberta Carrow Jackson, Jim Kubik, Eric Lindberg, George Long beauty and Anna Strider & joie

PRESIDENT AND CEO ou know the story: Pretty girl ern and coastal fare and carefully curat- Donna O'Daniels goes to a party feeling good about ed wine lists. There are around 30 restau- St. Tammany Parish herself but finds the prom queen rants just within Covington’s walkable Tourist & Convention Commission Y 68099 Highway 59 holding court and everyone’s attention. historic district. And beer lovers can get Mandeville, LA 70471 Hey, she wants to shout, look at me. I’m their thrill at the source, touring and (985) 892-0520 www.LouisianaNorthshore.com over here! tasting their way through Abita Brewery We know the feeling. It isn’t easy get- and others. ting noticed when you’re shining in the The Northshore is a microcosm of all shadow of a big personality like New Or- things Louisiana. You’ll find the charac- leans, across the lake and just a 45-min- teristic joie de vivre here, as we dance, ute drive away. But increasingly tourists feast and fest our way through the year. are discovering St. Tammany Parish, Mardi Gras is celebrated on the North- known to locals as the Northshore, a sce- shore, albeit a slightly more family PRESIDENT/CEO nic area long considered a getaway by city friendly version than that found across Kimberly Ferrante residents. We’re not flashy, but we defi- the lake. Music is in the air. There’s art, GROUP PUBLISHER nitely have charms of our own. and romance, and mystery, and adven- Adam Pitluk For starters, there are 80,000 acres of ture. Great shopping, a wide range of ac- CREATIVE DIRECTOR wilderness preserve, natural beauty eas- commodations from quaint B&Bs to val- David Halloran ily explored thanks to outfitters leading ue-friendly chain properties to boutique ABOUT MIDWEST LUXURY PUBLISHING kayak tours and renting gear, and tour hotels, and memory-making attractions. Midwest Luxury Publishing is a full-service communications outfit made up of experienced industry experts. We are your turnkey operators taking visitors deep into the We love a good party on the North- provider for all your communications and publishing needs. CONTACT THE PUBLISHER pristine Honey Island Swamp. (Learn shore. And we really love visitors, espe- [email protected] midwestluxurypublishing.com all about the swamp and its denizens cially the ones that have dallied in the 972.378.4845 in stories starting on page 24.) Charter past with New Orleans and are wonder- boats get fishermen out on the water and ing what else is out there. Explore the Northshore is a biannual publication of the St. Tammany Parish the Tammany Trace is the perfect pedal, Hey, look at us. We’re over here! And Tourist & Convention Commission. The winding 31 miles through eclectic towns we can’t wait to show you a good time. STPTCC provides visitor information and assistance to leisure and business and towering green spaces. travelers in St. Tammany Parish, Loui- siana. Find comprehensive listings for The Northshore culinary scene is a accommodations, attractions, dining and events at the STPTCC’s official website: draw in itself. Yes, there are mom-and- Renée Kientz www.LouisianaNorthshore.com pop joints with soulful gumbo, spicy boiled crawfish and po-boys the size of a Follow us on Facebook at Honda Fit. But you’ll also find chefs with ExploreLouisianaNorthshore creative takes on contemporary South- editor and on Instagram @lanorthshore

2 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM Zen Crook plays piano at the Southern Hotel.

PHOTO

KEVIN GARRETT celebrate

join the party There’s always something fun happening on the Northshore, from festivals and street parties to crawfish cook- offs and Mardi Gras. Take your vitamins, put on your danc- ing shoes and join us.

4 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM The Northshore planner Head to louisiananorthshore.com/events to find out more

oct. 5-7 oct. 6-7 oct. 13-14 St. Tammany Parish Fair Camellia City Smooth Jazz Fest Wooden Boat Festival Rides, critters and carnival food! Jazzy good time in Slidell River fun in Madisonville

oct. 20 oct. 27-28 nov. 10-11 Abita Springs Opry Slidell Antiques Street Fair Three Rivers Art Festival Louisiana roots music Hunt treasure in Olde Towne Juried outdoor art in Covington

feb. 16 march 17 march 30 Bayou Gardens Open House St. Patrick’s Day Parade Whole Town Garage Sale Tours, workshops in Lacombe Go Irish in downtown Covington Scavenge Abita for bargains

Spending the holidays in St. Tammany Parish? The month of December is a great time to visit the Northshore with the kids. There are Christmas pageants, holiday parades and tree lightings, caroling and Santa sightings everywhere. Check out LouisianaNorthshore.com for details on events like Merry Madisonville; the Winter on the Water boat parade, Sips of the Season stroll and A Christmas Past Festival, all in Mandeville; Cajun Christmas at Big Branch; and Covington’s Holiday Home Tour. Multi-weekend events Holiday of Lights and Christmas Under the Stars, held in Mandeville and Slidell respectively, are memory-makers for the little ones.

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 5 Don't miss... slidell antiques street fairs: Shops beckon year-round in Slidell’s Olde Towne District but the treasure hunt spills into the surrounding area for one weekend each fall and spring with antiques street fairs selling everything vintage, cool and collect- ible. Food and music. Free parking, no admission charge. Just lots of temptation. oct. 27-28, 2018 and march 30-31, 2019, slidell

october is beer month here: Three fun beer events are brewing for your drinking pleasure. Oxtoberfest Beer- Wade into Three Rivers fest happens Oct. 6 at Covington’s Trailhead while on Oct. 13, Slidell Annual juried outdoor arts festival lines the hosts the Northshore on Tap Home streets of historic downtown Covington each fall Brew & Craft Beer Experience. And Oct. 20, it’s Biketoberfest, a group owntown Covington is home to ceramics and photography to fiber art, ride on the Tammany Trace stopping galleries representing some of woodworking, metal work, sculpture, at four different breweries. Dthe South’s best artists. So it’s paintings, jewelry and more. no surprise that the town’s annual Three There’s no admission charge and park- Rivers Art Festival is a juried event showing is free throughout the district. There’s keeping it jazzy: Regional and national recording artists are showcased in casing worthy works by artists from al- a Children’s Discovery Area and a demon- the Camellia City Smooth Jazz Festi- most 30 states. stration tent where you can watch artists val, a celebration of smooth jazz and For one weekend each November (it’s make pottery or blow glass. And, this be- good vibes. Held at Slidell’s North- Nov. 10-11 in 2018), the outdoor arts fest ing Louisiana, of course there’s music and shore Harbor Center, the indoor two- takes over five city blocks of the historic food. Downtown galleries and restaurants day festival from Jin Jeans Produc- downtown’s Columbia Street. More than are open, too, making Three Rivers a great tions is in its second year. See the 50,000 visitors enjoy the art-filled stroll, place to enjoy a Fall weekend. lineup at CamCityJazzFest.com perusing works in every medium, from oct. 6-7, slidell

6 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM Don't miss... before and after summer’s heat abates, Northshore towns celebrate with street parties, art walks and free outdoor concerts. Check louisiananorthshore.com/events for details, but here are a few happenings to watch for:

carey street crawl Local art, shopping, music and more in Olde Towne Slidell. Nov. 2. JIM KUBIK JIM

fall for art PHOTO Covington’s downtown is the setting for an evening of music, art, and Fest puts ‘fun’ in culinary events. Oct. 13. sunset at the landing concert Tchefuncte Live music at the foot of Columbia Vintage wooden boats, food and a crazy contest Street in Covington. Oct. 19, 2018 make Madisonville event a blast on the river and March 15, 2019.

ituated on the banks of the Tche- tures scores of vintage watercraft from columbia street block party functe (pron. Cha-FUNK-ta) Riv- across the Gulf South, as well as demon- Halloween-themed party Oct 26 er, the little town of Madisonville strations, live music, the aforementioned in downtown Covington with S classic cars and live music. knows how to have fun on the water. Its food booths and an arts area. The high- biggest event each year is the Madison- light just may be the Quick ‘n’ Dirty Boat Next one: March 29, 2019 ville Wooden Boat Festival, a weekend Building competition, which challenges that’s fun and enlightening (and fattening, participants to pick a theme and then mandeville live! thanks to the food vendors). The 2018 fest build a boat from provided materials in Bring lawn chairs for free outdoor happens Oct. 13-14. 14 hours. The boats then must prove their concerts at Mandeville’s Trailhead Sponsored by the Lake Pontchartrain seaworthiness – but often don’t, to hilari- Amphitheater. Oct. 6 and 13, and Basin Maritime Museum, the festival fea- ous result. Fridays in March and April 2019.

Sell blocks prepare to pick your way through charming little Abita Springs when it hosts its annual Whole Town Garage Sale March 30, 2019. Held the last Saturday of each March, the sale features scores of vendors set up in the field across from Town Hall as well as hundreds of individ- ual garage sales happening simultaneous-

ly in the adjacent old Abita neighborhoods. PHOTO Get there early for the best pricing and

best picking. Hours are 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Food KEVIN GARRETT vendors help you keep up your energy.

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 7 Get that Mardi Gras buzz Parades roll, march and float in towns all across the Northshore during the festive Carnival season here are a few misunderstandings krewe, complete with flambeaux (torch- surrounding Mardi Gras festivi- bearers) and costumed cavorters, gets T ties in Louisiana. Northshore Carnival off to a raucous start For instance, Mardi Gras is only one Jan. 5 as they parade through the streets day. It means Fat Tuesday in French and of downtown Covington. Pups on falls every year on the Tuesday before After that, Carnival momentum builds the start of Lent. So what is the rest of the with weekends of parades by krewes with parade parade season, which lasts about three names like Perseus, Poseidon, Selene, Eve, although the carnival season weeks, called? Carnival. As in, “It’s Carni- Dionysus and Titans rolling across the officially ends with Fat Tuesday, the val time! Throw me some beads!” Northshore. Abita Springs’ always-zany Northshore can’t quite let it go until the Another misunderstanding: Mardi Krewe of Push Mow is especially popular Mystic Krewe of Mardi Paws takes to the Gras is not about flashing, streaking or for its humor and themes like “What’s that Mandeville lakefront (on March 10, 2019). drinking alcoholic beverages to the point smell?” and “Terrible New TV Channels.” Costumed pooches parade with their hu- of oblivion. Most parades, especially on There are boat parades, dog parades, mans in one of the most popular proces- the Northshore, are G-rated, family ori- day parades and night parades, all cul- sions in St. Tammany Parish. Always fun ented and more about cheering on march- minating on Mardi Gras Day when most and colorful, the parade also raises funds ing bands and showing off all the beads Northshore communities celebrate in for area animal agencies supported by the you caught. some way. The biggest celebration is Car- Ian Somerhalder Foundation. The hand- Carnival season kicks off on Jan. 6 (the nival in Covington which begins with two some actor Somerhalder, a Northshore Christian holiday of Epiphany, also known parades followed by a street party at the native, has joined the parade in past years RENÉE KIENTZ, GEORGE LONG GEORGE KIENTZ, RENÉE as Twelfth Night) and continues until Fat Covington Trailhead. and his possible appearance accounts for Tuesday, which in 2019 falls on March 5. some of the excitement among the gath- For a schedule of Northshore Carnival PHOTOS The St. John Fools of Misrule marching parades, visit LouisianaNorthshore.com/MardiGras ered crowds.

8 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM All hail the king cake The sweetest symbol of Mardi Gras lands on tables everywhere, thanks to local bakeries who work nonstop . . . and ship! f Mardi Gras has a smell it’s got to be son who gets the baby brings a king cake to the seductive cinnamon-y aroma of the next party. fresh-baked king cake. Their arrival If you’re in the area during Carnival Sequin show I you can check out artifacts from in area groceries, bakeries, at parties and season, stop into Camellia City or Nonna’s in classrooms, marks the beginning of for a king cake to go. Or get one shipped to Slidell’s Carnival celebrations through the Carnival season and celebration of a long- you. Both bakeries offer shipping and the years at the Slidell Mardi Gras Museum standing tradition that puts the treat at chance to experience a little bit of Mardi in Olde Towne. Located at 2020 First St., the center of every gathering big and small Gras wherever you are. the museum houses costumes, scepters, for about six weeks a year. goblets, throws and scrapbooks from Mar-

PHOTOS Two of the best king cakes on the randazzo’s camellia city bakery di Gras past. The collection is on the sec- Northshore come from different branches kingcakes.com ond floor of the Slidell Museum, formerly

KEVIN GARRETT (3) GARRETT KEVIN of the same family tree, using the original nonna randazzo’s bakery the Town Hall and Old Jail, built in 1907. Randazzo family recipe created back in nonnaskingcakes.com Free admission. 1965. Randazzo’s Camellia City Bakery in Slidell and Nonna Randazzo’s Bakery in Covington and Mandeville bake tens of thousands of king cakes each season, selling to locals who walk in to their bakeries and to aficionados all over the country. The basic king cake is an oval, braided cinnamon-y sweet bread, topped with icing and traditionally, sprinkles of purple, green and gold, the Mardi Gras colors. Over the years, variations have come to include praline icing, fruit and cream cheese fillings. One thing that’s unchanged: expect to find a plastic or bisque baby hidden in the cake. Tradition holds that the per-

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 9 Visions of Grayhawk Musician/teacher/historian Grayhawk Perkins reflects facets of Louisiana history and his Native American culture

ig hat, big cigar, big personality. Conversation with Gray- drinking tea and chatting with strangers who seem drawn to him. hawk Perkins is a little like chasing butterflies down a se- Maybe it’s the twinkle in his eyes or natural stage presence, Bries of rabbit holes. No straight lines, but the journey is in- but people want to hear what Perkins has to say and has to sing. triguing. The man reveals details of his life in random layers. Ask He makes music with the Grayhawk Band, performing a blend a question about his music and learn about his travels around the of blues, rock and funk, and with the Crescent Citizens, playing world as a young ship engineer, or his daughter’s shock at walking regular Saturday gigs at New Orleans’ House of Blues. His 2014 into the Smithsonian as a teen- CD, “Thirteen Moons,” was a passion project in which he wrote ager and seeing a banner photo and performed songs in the Mobilian language. (The CD is out of of her dad in a kayak. print, but see videos of Perkins singing on YouTube.) One of the most interesting Perkins shares his Native American history and heritage in men you’ll ever meet, Perkins is local cultural programs, art and storytelling sessions, and class- a multi-talented multi-tasker, a rooms. A frequent speaker and performer in Louisiana and be- teacher, historian, musician, ac- yond, he was invited to give a series of tours and performances tor and tribal storyteller. Born in France. in New Orleans and of Choctaw When you’re on the Northshore, check local events calendars and Houma Nation descent, he for appearances. Maybe pick up Perkins’ latest album, Grayhawk makes his home in Mandeville and Friends Live at the U.S. Mint, recorded in New Orleans and with wife Robin and often can due out in late 2018. Or, if you’re in Covington, swing by the En- KEVIN GARRETT (2)

be found, when he’s not teach- glish Tea Room on East Rutland Street. Perkins will be the guy ing or traveling, on the porch at in the hat drinking the Daddy Grayhawk blend under a plaque PHOTOS Covington’s English Tea Room, marking the Daddy Grayhawk table.

10 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM FIVE SPOTS

playmakers, inc. This non-profit amateur theater stages six productions each year. 19106 playmakers road, covington

30 by ninety Known for shows that challenge and entertain. 880 lafayette, mandeville

slidell little theater The heart of art This 200-seat community St. Tammany Art Association at the center theater presents six of Northshore’s vibrant visual arts scene productions a year, plus summer youth theater. he St. Tammany Art Association ing. Six times a year, the STAA also hosts 2024 nellie drive, slidell has been a part of the Northshore’s the Covington Art Market in the space visual arts scene for 60 years. dubbed Art Alley just outside its walls. Ju- café luke dinner theatre T Housed in a 19th-century structure, STAA ried works are offered for sale in the festive Dinner theater’s held inside features two galleries in which to show- scene held on first Saturdays in Spring and Slidell’s historic Grande Manor. case the area’s art scene, one for visiting Fall (Oct., Nov., Dec., March, April, May). 153 robert st., slidell exhibits, the other for members’ works. In addition, it’s often at the center of inter- The STAA is a nonprofit organization est for visitors strolling Columbia Street cutting edge whose mission is to showcase emerging during the town’s Fall for Art and Spring Cleverly named theater and established artists. for Art events and other street parties. stages original shows and The STAA is the hub of Covington’s vi- At the STAA through Jan. 27, 2019: off-Broadway hits inside sual arts scene, a scene which includes nu- “After the Wetlands,” by artist John Val- Attractions Salon. merous respected galleries in the historic entino. 320 n. columbia, covington 747 robert blvd., slidell district within blocks of the STAA build-

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 11 Art on Front a friendly, approachable space in which to browse good local art, the Marketplace at 1808 Front Street is a multi-artist gallery with original works in various media. Artists often are on hand at the gallery to talk about their works or offer demonstrations. Among the exhibitors are Adam Sam- bola, Pottery Studio KLH, Mardi Gras MisChief Gallery, Bead Society of Slidell and others. The gallery is on the ground floor of Slidell’s East Chamber of Commerce building. It’s a fun place to shop for art, Dance on down pick up information or, on Saturdays, buy local produce from the Camellia City to the Dew Drop Farmers Market held in the parking lot. World’s oldest rural jazz hall still drawing musicians 1808 front st, slidell and enthusiastic audiences to Mandeville

he tiny Dew Drop Jazz Hall may type of music called jazz took steamboats not look like much from the street across the lake from New Orleans to play Tbut the old cypress structure at the hall. Among them were early greats looms large for aficionados looking to un- Buddy Petit and Kid Ory; later a young derstand the history of jazz. Musicians Louis Armstrong (whose family lived from New Orleans and from around the nearby) played there. world still come to play on its rustic stage The Friends of the Dew Drop organi- and to pay homage to what is believed to be zation presents fall and spring concert se- the world’s oldest rural jazz hall. ries there. The audience arrives early for Its doors first opened in what is now prized seating on benches inside the little Old Mandeville in 1895 by a group of civ- building, while others set up lawn chairs ic-minded African-American residents outside under large oaks and enjoy the as a venue for raising funds for needy in- music spilling out old windows with shut- dividuals. Located in the 400 block of ters opened wide. Purchase a glass of wine Lamarque, blocks from the lakefront, the or an Abita Beer from a table out front, or a Dew Drop looks much as it did more than a dinner plate from one of the church ladies century ago when musicians playing a new at First Free Mission Baptist next door. Dance Cajun you don’t have to be cajun to “pass a good time” on the dance floor when the Northshore Cajun Dancers convene for one evening each month at Abita Springs’ Town Hall. Everyone’s welcome to join in. Don’t know how to Cajun dance but want to learn? Free les- sons are given from 7-7:30 p.m. Live music from the likes of Bruce Daigrepont,

Check out Max Jay Cormier, Coupique and Lee Benoit Cusimano’s video of commences at 8 p.m. ($10 cover charge). a live performance MAX CUSIMANO (2) at the Dew Drop It’s a classically Cajun evening of joie at louisiananorth- d’vivre, food and drink, with all ages and shore.com/dewdrop PHOTOS skill levels two-stepping across the floor.

12 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM indulge

take a bite Life’s a feast on the Northshore, where the culinary perspective has been shaped by the area’s diverse cultures as well as the bounty of the bayou. Feed your soul on poboys and gumbo at mom-and-pops or ethe- real Gulf-inspired fare from talented chefs. St. Tammany’s food scene is deep and delicious and there’s a seat at the table, and a great meal waiting for you.

Annadele’s savory

PHOTO smoked shrimp cheesecake.

CHERYL GERBER

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 13 Hambone’s playful boudin appetizer is a menu fave.

Hambone has it going on Chef Luke Hidalgo takes casual comfort food seriously in his cute little cottage eatery in old Mandeville he words “quaint” and “contempo- Maw’s versions by a country mile. rary” may seem incongruous but Hambone is chef Luke’s first restau- Tthey’re a perfectly matched set at rant but he’s no newcomer to the busi- a charming little restaurant in old Man- ness. Nor is wife Marci, who co-owns deville. In the spring of 2018, Hambone Hambone and works side by side. The took over a former tea room housed in a pair met about six years ago at New Or- sweet little cottage on Girod Street. Open leans’ noted Commander’s Palace where for breakfast and lunch only, Hambone’s Luke was a sous chef and Marci a server. a study in natural light, blonde woods and Luke had also worked at another culinary cheerful hues. institution, Galatoire’s, and Marci at the The deft touch goes beyond décor. respected Coquette. They know what’s Chef Luke Hidalgo’s fresh flavors ele- good. And what’s important, too. vate daytime eats with a menu that’s not Now a family with a young son, the two large but full of little surprises and artful restaurant pros set out to create a special comfort foods. Addicting deviled eggs place for other families in Mandeville, with crisp country ham, poboys like the one with a large enclosed play area for the fried pork chop sandwich with garlic col- kids and laid-back yet sophisticated food lards, char-pickled onions and pepper for their parents. jelly, or the pickled shrimp with shaved Hambone’s also become a favorite for fennel and avocado are on hand. There’s Sunday brunch, a pop of sunshine in the house-made pastrami on the killer Remy little cottage just blocks from the Mande- sandwich. Daily specials sound simple vile lakefront. hambone, 544 girod st., — smothered chicken, pot roast, fried mandeville chicken and biscuits — but whup Maw-

14 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM Love on the half-shell how to drink your oyster Fried golden, charbroiled or cold, salty and raw, Say hey to the shooter; the world is your oyster at area restaurants it’s how we get a little alcohol with our oyster. ysters holds an exalted place in is the number one producer of oysters Find them at oyster bars Louisiana’s culinary kingdom, in the U.S., shucking about 12 million like Acme Oyster Oespecially during the Fall and pounds a year.) in Covington or make Winter when the bivalves are fattest, Simmered in oyster and artichoke soup. one yourself at home. sweet and briny. Home cooks make Chef Keith Frentz showcases them on It’s easy: Place one oyster dressing for the holiday table, a his menu at LOLA in Mandeville as an freshly shucked oyster tradition that begins in many house- appetizer to die for: flash-fried oysters into a shot glass. holds with a sack of oysters and hours of napped in pepper jelly, with crispy pork Add one chilled ounce shucking (and slurping them down raw). belly and pickled okra. And in Man- of bloody mary mix and one ounce of vodka. Louisiana loves its oysters, and is deville, at Hambone, chef Luke Hidalgo Squeeze of lemon, dash proud of them, too. Back in the ’30s, serves up Oysters Marci, named for his of hot sauce. New Orleans mayor Robert Maestri took wife and featuring caramelized fennel, Slurp. Repeat. Franklin D. Roosevelt to dinner and fa- crisp bacon, mushrooms, Herbsaint and mously asked FDR, “How ya like dem pecan smoke. ersters?” We like ersters a lot, and a lot of ways. Fried is a given. Golden, crispy, delicious. Stuffed into po-boys, tossed atop Caesar salads. Charbroiled is a close second. Oys- ters on the half-shell are doused in butter, garlic and Parmesan and broiled til delicious and bubbly. Raw. Cold and salty, shucked right in front of you. (Louisiana

You can find Where to find: Hambone's raw recipe for Acme Oyster House, Oysters Marci online at Don’s Seafood and Buster’s LouisianaNorth- shore.com/recipes/ fried OystersMarci Mandeville Seafood,

PHOTOS Crabby Shack, Peck’s charbroiled

KEVIN GARRETT (3) GARRETT KEVIN K.Gee’s, NOLA Southern Grill, the Chimes oyster and artichoke soup Fatty’s Seafood, Speckled T’s

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 15 Bon appétit, bon temps The Northshore’s diverse and deep restaurant scene feeds your hunger for authentic culinary experiences

Jeffrey and Amy oxlot 9 Hansell 428 e. boston, covington Chef Jeffrey Hansell’s lovely dining space in downtown Covington’s Southern Hotel is a great showcase for the Gulf-inspired contemporary Southern food. Killer fried frog legs in hot trey yuen sauce butter. Venison meat pies. 600 n. causeway, mandeville Heritage pork chops. Hansell’s The restaurant in the red-roofed pagoda creativity and his deft touch is a landmark in Mandeville. The Wong with seafood and with meat family’s menu is the place to explore make his ever-changing menu a Szechuan, Cantonese, Hunan and Hong culinary adventure. Kong-style flavors in Louisiana-inspired specialties like tong cho trout, crawfish in a spicy lobster sauce and Szechuan spicy alligator.

morton's seafood 707 water st., madisonville The flashing ‘Hot Boiled Seafood’ sign beckons but there’s more to Morton’s than the spicy boiled crabs and crawfish or the location on the banks of the Tchefuncte KEVIN GARRETTKEVIN River. Marinated crab claws, chargrilled oysters, poboys, gumbo … it’s all here for PHOTO your Louisiana eating pleasure.

16 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM dakota 629 n. highway 190, covington Chef Kim Kringlie still helms this grand dame of fine dining in Coving- ton. Kringlie’s signature crabmeat and Brie soup earns new fans daily and his take on contemporary Louisiana flavors produce stunners like crispy softshell crab stuffed with shrimp and crawfish, served on pecan rice, and honey-glazed duck confit.

leonardo's del porto ristorante 2625 florida st., mandeville 501 e. boston, covington A newcomer, this little trattoria and Included in New Orleans food critic’s list pizzeria in a strip center location has of Top 10 restaurants in the New Orleans wowed locals with the flavors of Sicily area, Del Porto is a local favorite for its from Italian-born chef/owner Leon- emphasis on seasonal and locally sourced ardo Giarraputo. Among the stand- ingredients and contemporary Italian outs: lasagna Bolognese, spaghetti fare. Husband-wife chef team David and aglio e olio, the burrata appetizer and Torre Solazzo are three-time semifinal- pizza, too. Filet mignon flatbread? ists for the James Beard Foundation’s Give it a try. Best Chef South award. One bite of their stellar crudo and you'll know why.

lola 517 n. new hampshire, covington sal & judy’s 27491 highway 190, lacombe Husband-wife chef team Keith and Nealy Frentz operate this darling dining room in Sal Impastato commands the Covington’s old train depot. The pair met kitchen at this Lacombe insti- when both were chefs at world-famous tution where Italy meets Lou- Brennan’s in New Orleans. House-made isiana. There’s pasta, like veal everything pleases LOLA’s lunch crowds cannelloni and lasagna, even with blue plate specials, great salads and Bruciolini and Capelleti (pasta desserts. Dinner is more upscale but fresh, stuffed with chicken and mor- smart and creative. tadella!). But also trout Meu- niere and crabmeat au gratin. The best of both worlds.

palmettos on the bayou gallagher's grill & courtyard 1901 bayou lane, slidell 509 s. tyler, covington The name describes the place, a large Longtime local favorite chef Pat Gallagh- Acadian cabin on the banks of histor- er knows his way around a steak. You may ic Bayou Bonfouca, lush with palmettos never have a better filet served in sizzling and iconic Louisiana greenery enjoyed butter. Expect divine crab cakes and a deft from the decks. Enjoy gumbo, shrimp and touch with Louisiana seafood like pompa- grits, crawfish beignets, trout almondine, no and redfish, as well as Colorado rack of balsamic duck and on Sundays, live jazz. lamb, veal rib chop and chargrilled quail.

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 17 You'll eat our words Having trouble understanding the menu? Here’s a Louisiana lexicon to interpret for you

ne glance at a menu and you know ian bread it’s made with. Stuffed inside you’re in Louisiana even if you are several layers of ham, Genoa sausage, Oaren’t familiar with the dishes. Provolone cheese and chopped olive salad. Here’s a brief primer to help you decipher Eaten warm or cold, the giant sandwich is local menus. a delicious handful and usually serves two andouille: This flavorful, spicy sausage or more people. is a favorite in chicken and sausage gum- paneed: Meaning coated in bread crumbs bo. (Pron. AHN-doo-ee) or dredged in flour and pan-fried gently in boudin: Another sausage. Though there’s butter, as in paneed veal, chicken, frog legs boudin in France, the Louisiana version is or oysters. (Pron. PAN-aid) a regional specialty made with pork, rice poboy: A long sandwich on crusty and seasonings. It’s often found in restau- French bread, a poboy really isn’t the rants in the form of fried boudin balls. same as a submarine or a hoagie. It can be dressed: If you order your poboy dressed, ordered with a variety of fillings. Among it means you want it “all the way,” which the favorites are fried oysters or shrimp means you want it with lettuce, tomato (or both), and long-simmered roast beef Happy meals and pickle. slathered in gravy. prepare to yield to temptation. gumbo: You’ve heard this term, proba- pralines: A simple candy that’s nev- It’s okay. Really. The Covington Farmers bly tasted this Louisiana dish. Though ertheless hard to make well. Most pra- Market staged each Saturday morning it’s popped up on menus across the U.S., lines are made with sugar, butter, vanilla is a panoply of pleasures, from beautiful you’re not likely to eat the real thing (or other flavoring like rum) and nuts. locally grown produce like sweet satsu- outside of south Louisiana unless it was (Pron. PRAW-leen) mas, Creole tomatoes and heirloom figs, cooked for you by a transplanted native. red beans and rice: You’ll often see this to artisan breads, Louisiana specialties A dark, flavorful soup, real gumbo takes a as a Monday special at restaurants hark- like stuffed artichokes and Delta tamales. long time to cook and requires a little voo- ing back to the days when south Louisiana Meet Nick Usner, an organic farmer doo to do properly. Most gumbos are vari- women traditionally did the wash on Mon- who supplies gorgeous produce like per- ations on two themes: seafood or chicken days and needed something slow and easy fect little squashes, hand-foraged chan- and sausage. Served with rice, it can be to ignore on the stove. Red beans are kid- terelle mushrooms and just-picked okra. light brown or dark as swamp water. ney beans and here they’re slow-cooked Linger over the table at Bear Creek Road muffuletta: This traditional sandwich with seasoning meat till almost creamy, where stunning baked goods challenge takes its name from the crusty round Ital- then served with white rice. your will power. There are raw foods, fresh collards, Kombuchas, yard eggs, line-caught catfish, jams and jellies, goat cheese, herbs and seasonal items like Pillows of pleasure mirlitons (chayote squash). beignets. the word looks like “big nets” but is Don’t eat before you go. You can nosh pronounced “BEN-yay.” BEN-yay! That’s how you your way through the cultures that feel when you bite down on these pillowy bil- shaped old Louisiana and new. Try Greek lowy little square puffs of fried dough with a skordalia, Italian cuccidata, Salvadoran heavy dusting of powdered sugar. The beig- pupusas and Middle Eastern hummus net is more than a dessert around here; while listening to live music floating from it’s a tradition, an afternoon snack and the gazebo. Check out Mauthe’s creole a late-night treat. Only the foolish try to cream cheese, an almost lost food that make them at home. Café du Monde, with earned the Slow Food Movement’s first two locations on the Northshore, has been “Ark of Taste” award. making them since 1862. Kids like to dunk The market is held from 8 a.m. to noon ‘em in chocolate milk; parents go for the de- on Saturdays. Get there early for the best licious café au lait, strong coffee with hot milk. selection of fresh-picked produce. Hint: Don’t wear black when you go and do grab a 609 n. columbia, covington few extra napkins. You’re going to need them. 70437 la for details on other northshore farmers and 21, covington; 1814 n. causeway approach, mandeville community markets, visit louisiananorthshore.com

18 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM FIVE SPOTS Southside Café k. gee’s Where to eat like a local Louisiana food, live music on Fridays. Great fried catfish! Places like Slidell’s Southside Café serve 2534 florida st., mandeville soulful, satisfying Louisiana comfort food pened in 1991 by Sharon and Dan that Irish Channel gumbo. Named for a mandeville seafood DeBlanc and rebuilt after Hurri- New Orleans neighborhood, the dish fea- Restaurant and cane Katrina pushed three feet tures a potato salad levee dividing sea- seafood market, too. O of water into the restaurant, the colorful food gumbo from chicken and sausage 2020 highway 29, mandeville Southside Café is one of those places lo- gumbo in a single bowl. (Potato salad cals love to hang out. Bright and busy, it with gumbo is something you’ll see only crabby shack serves up Louisiana comfort food, cold in south Louisiana, our home kitchens or Poboys, classics and beer and, despite the “Shut Up and Eat” in family-run restaurants like this.) boiled seafood in season. sign, good cheer. Southside keeps it lively with multi- 305 la 21, madisonville The giant menu is a challenge but it’s ple TVs and Happy Hour from 3 p.m. till a good problem to have. There are fried close on Wednesdays and all day Sunday. phil's marina café seafood platters and poboys with names Tables are set with more than one kind Seafood platters, poboys like The Peacemaker (fried oysters, fried of hot sauce, there’s always a buzz of con- and a water view. eggs, bacon and cheese) and the Big Mo versation and Marine Corps memorabilia 1194 harbor drive, slidell Jamma (ham, turkey, roast beef and is prominent in the décor. Dan DeBlanc, melted Swiss covered with roast beef a former Marine helicopter pilot, keeps bear's gravy). New Orleans’ style muffalettas, the welcome sign out for everyone but Not much to look at, the classic round loaf stuffed with ham, especially the military community and but oh, those poboys. mortadella, salami and Provolone with veterans. 3154 pontchartrain drive, Open lunch only. chopped olive salad. Burgers, steaks and slidell 128 w. 21st, covington oysters from the grill. And then there’s

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 19 Abita Brewing Tap Room

Pop the cork at two new spots northshore oenophiles had something to clink about when not one, but two new wine bars opened on the Northshore in the spring of 2018. The Wine Garden, housed in an historic space in Slidell’s Olde Towne, quickly became a fave gathering spot, thanks to its patio, large selection of wines by the glass and by the bottle, and great-with-wine small plates, pressed sandwiches and charcuterie. Live music most nights and brunch on Sunday. In Covington, 20 minutes or so west, grape nuts can indulge at Barrel Wine, a friendly space with small plates and charcuterie, art wall, live music on Tues- days and Saturdays, and, oh, yes, some fab wine selections. Wine flights and guest chef events kick up the fun. wine garden: 300 robert st., slidell barrel wine: 69305 la 21, covington

Pontchartrain Vineyards Get your beer here Take a tour, belly up for a tasting at Abita and other Northshore breweries hat started in 1986 as a tiny it easy for anyone to belly up and taste little operation in a little pub what master brewers, Artesian water and W in Abita Springs has grown three decades of experience can produce. into the country’s 14th largest craft brew- The Northshore is well represented ery — and one of the Northshore’s most on the Louisiana Brewery Trail with two popular tourist attractions. Abita beer additional breweries here. Covington now is found in all 50 states and beyond, Brewhouse in a historic old structure in Great grapes expanding its fan base and attracting vis- the shadow of Covington’s water tower, Experience some of Pontchartrain Vine- itors from across the planet. produces German-style beers and offers yards’ award-winning wines in its classic Imbibers come by car and by tour bus free tours on Saturday and a tasting room tasting room adjacent to acres of vines. (and sometimes by bike, arriving via the Thursday-Sunday. Nearby in Mandeville, For $5 per person, sample a flight of wines nearby Tammany Trace bike path) to Chafunkta Brewing Company is turning made right there, including zinfandel, Abita Brewery to taste favorites like Pur- out beer with names like Kingfish Ale and cab/syrah and blanc du bois. Founded ple Haze and Turbodog at the source. Old 504 (porter). Check with the brewery in 1991, PV produces about 2,500 cases Self-guided tours are free; guided for tours and tastings. Or stop by Old Rail of wine a year on its 34 acres and is also tours with tastings are $5. The visitor Brewing Company or the Barley Oak, two known for its popular Jazz’n the Vines KEVIN GARRETTKEVIN

center and gift shop are open seven days a fun Mandeville brew pubs to sample ev- music series held each fall and spring. PHOTO week and the welcoming taproom makes eryone’s wares in one spot. 80158 la 1082, bush

20 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM adventure

PHOTO

KEVIN GARRETT experiences Get in touch with your inner adventurer on the Northshore where you can take a photo safari, go fishing, hiking, biking and paddling year-round. Rent gear or take a tour but do get out and play.

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 21 Twilight paddles capture magic on the lake

FIVE SPOTS

canoe and trail adventures Eco-friendly canoe and kayak tours on Cane Bayou. Twilight and group tours. canoeandtrail.com

bayou adventure Guided eco, sunset and fishing tours on Cane Bayou Enjoy our great outdoors and Big Branch Marsh. Bait, From sunset paddles to pushing pedals, there tackle and rentals, too. are many ways to get out and commune with nature bayouadventure.com

ot for nothing is St. Tammany Paddlers will love it here. You can bring bayou paddle company Parish called the Northshore. Its your own gear but you don’t have to. Kay- Guided paddleboard tours towns and green spaces sprawl aks, canoes and paddleboards are avail- on the Bogue Falaya River. N inside spokesman bicycle across the northern arch of Lake Pon- able for rent at several locations (see the tchartrain. There are more than 80,000 adjacent list), and there are tour operators shop, covington acres of wilderness preserve, much of it happy to take you out for a day on the wa- COURTESY CANOE AND TRAIL ADVENTURES TRAIL AND CANOE COURTESY

explorable via trails, the Tammany Trace ter. Or an evening. Two operators — Canoe massey’s professional

bike path and the many bayous and rivers and Trail and Bayou Adventure — both of- outfitters PHOTO that dissect the landscape. fer sunset paddles down Cane Bayou to the Fishing, canoe and kayak lake just in time to catch the glorious pink, trips on Cane Bayou and purple and gold sunsets we have come Bogue Chitto River. to expect here but never tire of seeing. masseysoutfitters.com Fish from your kayak, from the shore or even from a charter boat, out for bull reds the bait shop on front street and monster trout on the waters of Lake Kayak rentals for exploring Borgne and Rigolets Pass. Or just enjoy the Bayou Bonfouca or the Honey scenery, which changes with the seasons, Island Swamp. Bait and tackle, each with its own special beauty. too. 1604 front st., slidell

22 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM PHOTOS Do feed the animals Don't miss... northlake nature center: Though

KEVIN GARRETT (2) GARRETT KEVIN Take a roll through Folsom’s Global Wildlife Center, home to more than 4,000 exotic critters foliage isn’t as thick in the cooler months as it is in spring, this lovely xcitement builds as you approach the visitor center, driving past decidedly not 400-acre preserve on the banks of native creatures: zebras and Father David deer, kangaroos, giraffes and elands. Castine Bayou is worth a look year- You know you are entering a special place. round. There are about 7 miles of E trails, a boardwalk overlooking a Global Wildlife Center is the largest free-roaming wildlife preserve in the U.S., home to more than 4,000 exotic and endangered animals living on 900 scenic acres. beaver lodge and giant magnolias. Visitors have two options to explore Global. Many, especially families with young chil- 23135 hwy 190, mandeville dren, choose the tours given in large motorized wagons, providing on-high views and opportunity to toss feed to animals approaching the wagon. horseback riding Explore the North- The private Pinzgauer tours are a great choice for families and animal lovers who : shore on horseback at Splendor want a unique and up-close encounter. Seating up to 8 people, the 4x4 vehicles put Farms, a B&B in Bush, LA, that of- guests eye level with Global’s inhabitants who often follow or surround the vehicle. fers trail riding to non-guests as well. Stroke a giraffe’s neck as she Or hit the trail at Folsom’s Sunflow- leans over your shoulder. Amaz- er Farm and Ranch. Instruction is ingly beautiful up close, the gi- available. splendor farms, 27329 mill raffes are persistent — they want creek rd., bush that corn! — but gentle. Touch the sunflower farm, 84080 cemetery massive, wooly head of an Amer- rd., folsom ican bison, or the horn of Watusi cattle, as it feeds from your hand. fishing Fishing is another year-round Deer, llamas and zebras come up : activity on the Northshore. Check close for a snack, too. out Sunset Point’s pier in Mandeville Safari tours are given several (free and open 24 hours a day), or times daily; Pinzgauer tours re- grab a pole and head for Lacombe’s quire reservations. Both make Lake Road. Fun and quintessential unforgettable memories for Louisiana. all. global wildlife center, sunset point, massena st., mandeville 26389 highway 40, folsom lake road, highway 434, lacombe

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 23 SWAMPEXPLORING LOUISIANA'S

24 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM THINGSLUSH, PRIMEVAL LANDSCAPE

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 25 Irises add pops of color to the swamp in spring FORGET THE SWAMPS YOU’VE SEEN IN MOVIES. You know, the ones with 20-foot gators launching themselves into canoes, hissing black snakes dangling from every moss-hung tree and wild-eyed Cajuns who live off the bayou’s bounty. Well, that last stereotype might be true but the other two are pure Hollywood.

What you can expect to find in the Hon- woodpeckers, or great blue herons, de- ey Island Swamp, on the northeast edge of pending on what time of year you visit. St. Tammany Parish, is pristine beauty, And fat little feral pigs, all muddy and lush nature in harmony, and abundant deceptively cute, may greet you from the wildlife. There are gators, to be sure. You’ll banks of the bayou. The wildlife you see see them sunning themselves on logs or varies because this isn’t a Disney park, af- TAKE A TOUR watching warily from the banks (you ter all, and nature has its own reasons and dr. wagner’s honey PAGE THIS AND SPREAD PREVIOUS PHOTOS, make them nervous); if they swim out to rhythms. Regardless of who or what steps island swamp tour the boat it will be to score a few marshmal- up to greet you, one thing never changes: 41490 crawford landing road, lows or a hot dog dangled on a stick by the You will see an absolutely lovely patch of slidell honeyislandswamp.com tour guide to lure them closer. planet Earth, one that’s been largely pro- You probably won’t be seeing any tected from …. us. cajun encounters 55345 highway 90 east, slidell The Honey Island Swamp encompass- snakes, though they’re out there. And de- cajunencounters.com spite reported sightings that date back es almost 70,000 acres, more than half of centuries, odds are you won’t be catching a which is preserved for posterity as part pearl river eco-tours glimpse of the Honey Island swamp mon- of the Pearl River Wildlife Management 55050 highway 90, slidell pearlriverecotours.com

ERIC LINDBERG (2) ster, either. (See related story.) Area. The PRWMA is swampy in the You will see turtles, maybe an eagle south, more hardwood bottomland to the overhead, and snowy white egrets patient- north, home to black bears, boar, cougars, ly stalking a bullfrog dinner. You might nutria and an abundant year-round and see a nutria, prehistoric-looking pileated migratory bird population.

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 27 Created by the confluence of the west River Eco-Tours say the project would and east Pearl rivers, the Honey Island devastate the lower Pearl by choking its Swamp is rich in history, full of mystery water flow. Without the natural increased and fragile. Unlike many of the nation’s flow each spring brings, the swamp’s other swamps, Honey Island has never ecosystem would not flourish, and may- been commercially developed. But like be not even survive. If you ask them, the many, it is delicate and often jeopardized operators and their captains will speak by human actions. Concerns have been passionately about what could be lost, but growing recently about a proposed flood mostly they let the area’s natural beauty control project upriver in Mississippi that do the talking for them. They hope that some say would adversely affect the fragile anyone experiencing this special place balance in the Honey Island Swamp. would want to see it preserved. Tour operators like Cajun Encounters’ And so, each day, all year long, the tour Jeff Rogers, Paul Trahan of Honey Island companies take visitors into the Honey Swamp Tours and Neil Benson of Pearl Island Swamp (and yes, bring them out,

28 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM too). Reservations aren’t mandatory but much appreciated and may avoid disap- pointment on your part. Most tours run around two hours in length. What you learn depends on your own powers of observation and on the perspective and personalities of your tour guide, each of whom seem to have a slightly different spin on the swamp. Some guides grew up there and know its every inlet, twist and turn, what plants are edible, where the biggest gators live, whose mama caught the biggest catfish ever seen 40 years back. Other guides are biologists, entranced into the profession by the area’s untouched beauty. One is a

well-known stride piano player who gigs Cast of monster in New Orleans’ French Quarter at night footprint at Abita and helms a tour boat by day. All of them Mystery House. love the swamp and take their jobs as its ambassadors seriously. Visitors come from all over the country and the world. It isn’t uncommon to hear Bigfoot of several languages spoken by the tourists who come to Slidell and Pearl River to see the swamp the swamp. But the universal language of The Honey Island Swamp has wonderment is the same; all humans gasp natural beauty and, just maybe its at the sight of a majestic heron flying over- own Bigfoot creature. Described as head or a 12-foot alligator sizing them up bipedal, over 7 feet tall and weigh- from a yard away. ing 400-500 pounds with matted Rogers of Cajun Encounters tours says brown hair and eye-wateringly bad the sights of the swamp are different ev- body odor, the Honey Island Swamp ery time, from day to day, season to sea- Monster was first sighted by two lo- son. Visitors in spring will see the most cal men in 1963. color, as irises and water hyacinths bloom Air traffic controller Harlan Ford in profusion; summer is prime time to see and his friend Billy Mills were hunt- Tour boats give you a chance to see alligators. In the fall, the cypress trees ing when they came across what swamp’s wildlife begin changing from brilliant green to a they believed to be the monster. like the gator here and swamp canary rust color. And winter has its own beauty, Ford would never forget the encoun- and raccoon, below. the cypress trees bare, the gators mostly ter, going back on subsequent visits dormant but other wildlife more active to try and catch one more glimpse. and visible. His granddaughter, Dana Holyfield, Most tours take visitors out in motor- keeps the story alive, displaying plas- ized boats, holding 15 to 24 passengers. ter casts of the creature’s large feet, These aren’t airboats like the ones seen in writing children’s books about the Florida and some other Louisiana swamps. critter and selling T-shirts with his Operators offer pickup and return from likeness. A documentary filmmaker, PHOTOS New Orleans hotels but better to arrive on she made a short film that included your own and explore more of the area af- 8mm film footage shot by her grand-

ERIC LINDBERG, KEVIN GARRETT (2) GARRETT KEVIN LINDBERG, ERIC ter the tour has whetted your appetite. father. You can check out the video St. Tammany Parish has more than on her website, swampmonster.wee- 80,000 acres of wilderness preserve. The bly.com or at louisiananorthshore. Honey Island Swamp, on the parish’s east- com where there is a snippet in the ern edge, is just one course in a menu of GoSwamp video. Holyfield’s monster state parks, nature trails, national wildlife has been featured on numerous TV reserve, scenic rivers and bayous, all easily shows, including Animal Planet and accessible and waiting for you. the SyFy channel’s Swamp Monsters.

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 29 Swamp man Neil Benson shares his magical world

To see Neil Benson in action at his Pearl River Eco-Tours is to see a man who’s found his proper place in the world. Clad in jeans, or sometimes, overalls, with hair pulled back and a hint of wind- and sunburn on his KEVIN GARRETTKEVIN face, Benson is what ladies might once have

called “strapping,” with beefy arms and a PHOTO boyish smile. You’d never guess, hearing him greet visitors with yessir and hello, dawlin’, that he once made his living as a mortgage banker before succumbing to the siren call of his childhood stomping grounds. Benson says he grew up exploring the Honey Island Swamp. He knew its secrets, every bend of the river, hiding holes and sweet spots. Yes, he left for a while. Went to college. Pursued a career, acted like a grownup. “I wore a suit all the time!” And now he’s home, back on the bayou, showing people from all over the world, people who live like he used to live, his swamp. “To me this is a magical and beautiful place and I truly love what I do,” he says. “I am very blessed to be able to share this world with others.” Insta-gator! A little reptilian for you ... home to more than 2,000 reptiles, Insta-Gator Ranch & Hatchery is a fun • There are two living species of alliga- • Diet consists mostly of fish, turtles, and educational way to learn more about tor. The one you’ll see in the United small mammals and birds, though the alligators that make their homes in States, in southern swamps and wet- alligators have been known to attack Louisiana’s wetlands. Tour the ranch, lo- lands from Texas to North Carolina, dogs, deer and on rare occasions, hu- cated about 10 minutes from downtown is A. Mississippiensis. (The other is the mans. The reptiles mostly try to avoid Covington, and see alligators in clear wa- Chinese alligator.) humans, though some deaths do occur ter. Guides recount the gators’ story and each year, mostly in areas where natu- explain the industry that sprang from the • The American alligator averages about ral habitat has been encroached upon need for preserving the species. 800 pounds and can be from 10-15 feet or destroyed. You’ll have a chance to see an alligator long, though the largest ever recorded up close and touch it (he’s small and his was found right here in Louisiana. It • The state’s alligator population, ac- snout is taped, no worries). Make plans to measured a nightmare-inducing 19.2 cording to Louisiana Wildlife & Fish- come back in August when, for a few short feet from snout to tip of tail. eries, is around 2 million, the most of weeks, you can hold a gator egg in your . any state. After population declines by hand and watch it hatch. • Alligators can run about 20 miles per the mid-20th century, harvest quotas 23440 lowe davis road, covington hour in short bursts and other protections were put into place. Populations now are at sustain- able levels.

• The alligator is the state reptile of Lou- isiana, designated in 1983.

• Alligators have been harvested since the 1800s for their skins and oil (used for greasing steam engines). The Con- federacy used the skins for soldiers’ boots and saddles during the Civil War. PHOTO • Alligators today represent a $50 mil-

PAT SGRO PAT lion industry for Louisiana with most parts of the animal being used. Shoes, purses and other items of alligator skin fetch high prices and the meat — tastes like chicken, yes — is increasingly offered in the state’s restaurants.

• Mating season is April to May. Alliga- tors begin mating when around 6-feet long. Females build a nest and lay 20- 60 eggs, then cover the nest with veg- etation and hang out for 65 days or so until the little eggs begin to hatch.

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 31 explore

come on in Explore the Northshore through the eyes of an eccentric and artsy curmudgeon at the Abi- ta Mystery House or by pedaling your way through nature on the beautiful Tammany Trace. Two state parks, nature trails and a national wildlife reserve are just part of the 80,000 acres of green space — and magic — waiting for you. Art and oddities, oh my Everything silly and sublime finds a home at John Preble’s eclectic Abita Mystery House

prung from the twisted brain of Abi- and what may be the state’s best gift shop. ta impresario/artist John Preble, Preble’s wily self-promotion and spots on Spictured at left, the Abita Mystery shows like American Pickers have pulled House is a roadside attraction-like empo- in visitors from around the world. If you rium of outsider art, Southern wit and the go, bring your sense of humor. And three flotsam and jetsam of modern life. Fun for bucks. Because that’s what it costs to get in all ages, the Mystery House has hands-on at the Mystery House, where “everyone is exhibits, mythical creatures like Darrel welcome, even your family.” the Dogigator (half dog, half … you know), 22275 highway 36, abita springs Don't miss... big branch marsh nwr: This huge the new walker percy statue: Bogue slidell history museum: Built in 1907, refuge offers two miles of trails Falaya Park in downtown Covington Slidell’s former jail now does double PHOTOS and walkways and is rich in wildlife is home to a new statue memorial- dual duty as the Mardi Gras muse- and recreational activities like bird izing the late Walker Percy, author um (upstairs) and a history museum

KEVIN GARRETT (2) GARRETT KEVIN watching, guided tours, hiking, pad- of “The Movie Goer” and “Love down. Artifacts from Slidell’s past dling and fishing. Winter months of- in the Ruins.” Percy lived and wrote fill the old jail’s five cells. Shown fer spectacular blooms of old camel- in Covington and is buried nearby at here: iconic bricks from St. Joe Brick lias and azaleas in the visitor center’s St. Joseph’s Abbey. Works, located in nearby Pearl River garden. 61389 highway 434, lacombe 213 park drive, covington since 1895. 2020 first st., slidell

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 33 Don't miss... two state parks: Find 2,800 acres of green space, a sandy beach, camping sites, trails and cabins at Fontaine- bleau on the edge of Mandeville. A few minutes away, Madisonville’s Fairview Riverside State Park offers camping, the historic Otis House museum, and fishing and boating on the Tchefuncte River. fontainebleau: 62883 hwy 1089, mandeville fairview riverside: 119 fairview, madisonville

bogue falaya wayside park: This pretty little park in Covington on the Bogue Falaya River’s sandy banks, is a favorite of parents with young kids thanks to unique play areas, picnic tables and the peaceful setting. It’s also a great put-in point for kayaks History ahoy and paddleboards (rentals nearby at Madisonville’s Maritime Museum showcases Brooks' Bike Shop). 213 park drive, covington 19th-century lighthouse, area’s rich seagoing past t’s hard not to imagine the nearby tival held each October (see Pg. 5). Tchefuncte River filled with schoo- The museum is custodian of the nearby camp salmen nature park: The 130- acre nature park offers four short ners, war boats and steamers when Tchefuncte River lighthouse, built in 1837, I trails, all under one mile, for a look you visit the Lake Pontchartrain Basin still standing but put at risk by storms at the historic area’s flora and fau- Maritime Museum in picturesque Mad- and shoreline erosion. You can’t tour the na. There are pavilions, picnic tables, isonville. The museum tells the story of lighthouse but you can visit the lightkeep- a boardwalk and a Kids Unlimited the Northshore’s seaport roots through er’s cottage, moved from the mouth of the playground for children of all abil- well-done exhibits, artifacts (a Civil War Tchefuncte where it long stood next to ities. The park is open year-round submarine!), video and events like boat the lighthouse. Wednesdays-Sundays. building classes and the Wooden Boat Fes- 133 mabel dr., madisonville 35122 parish parkway, slidell

The LPB Maritime Museum on the banks of the Tchefuncte River

34 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM On the path It’s easy to explore the parish via the scenic Tammany Trace

The 31-mile-long Tammany Trace winds through green spaces, parks and over bayous, offering all who hike or bike the path a way to surround themselves in the Northshore’s natural beauty. Originally a corridor for the Illinois Central Railroad, the Trace now is a paved path, stretching from downtown Cov- ington, through Abita Springs, Mandeville and Lacombe, all the way to Slidell with trail- heads along the way. Some users stroll or pedal leisurely, others power-walk the path. Serious cyclists, in rac- ing jerseys and Lycra shorts with padded buns, whiz through from beginning to end and back. Whether you travel a few blocks or go the distance, the Trace is a special and easy way to experience the Northshore at your own pace. There are numerous entry spots for the Trace, Louisiana’s only rails-to-trails con- version, but the official Trailhead is located on Koop Drive off Highway 59 where a green caboose serves as the info center and rang- er office. Bike rentals are available in several towns. The Tammany Trace is closed to motorized traffic except for the small carts used by park rangers who patrol its length from 7:30 a.m. to dusk daily.

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 35 connect

looking back Northshore residents live among the ghosts of St. Tammany’s past. Experience history at places like the Lang House, a tourable Anglo-Creole cottage in Mandeville, or HJ Smith & Sons’ 19th-century general store still operating in downtown Covington.

36 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM An old grindstone is just one of the artifacts at HJ Smith & Sons. Check out the general store Park's past HJ Smith & Sons’ free museum a revealing stroll bernard de marigny de mandeville through everyday life in 19th-century Covington left his mark on both sides of Lake Pon- tchartrain. Born in New Orleans in 1785 ou can’t miss the obviously old china, farm tools and dry goods. into a wealthy family, he created an early wooden structure on Covington’s Back up front, before you leave, get 19th-century subdivision now famous- Y Columbia Street, with its wag- yourself a lucky rabbit’s foot (or a Dutch ly known in that city as the Marigny. On on out front, vintage swing and Bonanza oven or some local honey) and be sure to the lake’s northern shore he built a sugar vibe. Step inside, though, and find a place chat with whichever Smith is behind the mill and kiln on 4,000 acres he had pur- where worlds collide, old and new, mun- counter that day. chased and named it Fontainebleau. Now dane and bizarre. Opened in 1876, the 308 n. columbia st., covington a beautiful state park, Fontainebleau is a general store is still operated by the Smith short ride to the town of Man- PHOTOS family who’ve stocked it to the rafters deville, which he named for with everything from chuckwagon stoves himself after subdividing the

RENÉE KIENTZ, KEVIN GARRETT, DEBORAH BURST DEBORAH GARRETT, KEVIN KIENTZ, RENÉE to camo, garden gnomes, gator paw back lakefront property into almost scratchers and the precise nail needed for 400 lots that he sold to affluent a home project. New Orleanians for summer Floors creak and history hangs in the homes. You can still see many air, especially when a small ramp leads 19th-century buildings in the you into the original general store, pre- Mandeville of today, which also served by the family in all its mercantile features shops, restaurants glory as a free museum. It’s fun to see the and B&Bs. If you visit nearby artifacts of Covington’s past, a cast iron Fontainebleau, check out the casket, 20-foot cypress dugout and old- brick sugar mill ruins and the timey cases crammed with detergent-box gorgeous old oaks.

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 37 St. Tammany timeline Originally home to Choctaw and other tribes, the parish has been shaped by various cultures and events

The Choctaw inhabit the northern shore of Lake Pontchar- train, which they called Ok- wa’ta (meaning “wide water”). 1600 B.C.1600

Explorers Pierre LeMoyne Sieur d’Iberville and Jean Batiste LeMoyne Sieur de Bien- 1699 ville check out the Northshore.

The U.S. acquires 828,000 square miles of territory in the Louisiana Purchase, which does 1803 not include St. Tammany Parish.

The Republic of West Florida is formed to revolt against Span- ish authority in the area — and Life at the Lang House 1810 lasts 74 days. Tour this charming little museum for a glimpse into the early days of Mandeville

our the Jean Baptiste Lang House, destroyed by Hurricane Katrina, the Louisiana admitted to the just blocks from Mandeville’s house was rescued, restored and repur- Union in April. West Florida lakefront, and learn that it was posed by preservationists to provide a resists but becomes part of 1812 T built in the early 1850s by a Belgian-born unique glimpse into the fascinating histo- the state five months later. tobacconist who made his living in New ry of Old Mandeville. Tours are free, given Orleans and his home (post-divorce) in Wednesday-Saturday. the little Anglo-Creole cottage. Almost 605 carroll st., mandeville Bernard de Marigny builds sugar plantation (now Fontaine- bleau State Park), then founds 1830 Mandeville a few miles west. Special spaces small museums offer a focused take reopen in early 2019: Bayou Lacombe Mu- on an area’s culture and history. On the seum, back after renovations, with histor- Tourism boom begins in Abita Northshore, check out the Abita Springs ic, cultural and folklife exhibits. Springs when a doctor declares Trailhead Museum, a special space at the the area’s local springs have

1887 heart of town known for history exhibits, restorative qualities. art and culture festivals and its location on the Tammany Trace; the GOSH Museum, operated by the Guardians of Slidell His- First span of the 24-mile Pont- tory, with new exhibits every four months; chartrain Causeway is built, and the Madisonville Museum, housed in creating the longest continuous 1956 the town’s 1911 courthouse, offering Civil Abita bridge over water in the world. War artifacts, displays about history and Trailhead Native American culture. Scheduled to Museum

38 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM splurge

Oh sweet! Shop for joy by the ounce at Mandeville’s beguiling Candy Bank caution: there WILL be sensory overload when you enter. You WILL have control issues. Let go and enjoy ‘em, babe. This is the Candy Bank, a wonderfully Wonka-esque homage to the sweetness in life. You won’t find any oompa loom- pas here, but you might catch owner Lisa Keiffer putting out her made-right-here fudge (with real butter and real cream). And you for sure will find the candy of your childhood dreams and your grand- ma’s childhood dreams, too. Mary Janes and Sugar Babies, gummi worms and Swedish fish, jewelry made of candy, candy made of everything. Lots of yummy stuff drenched in chocolate, like cashews and cordials and coffee beans and sea salt caramel popcorn. A charming old bank building in Man- deville’s historic district is home to the confectionery, which also serves up ice cream sundries, gazillions of bottled so- das, and a mean cappuccino, too. Load up on sugar here for the energy you’ll need to check out the shops on nearby Gi- rod Street, a picturesque little stretch of clothing, gift and antiques shops. There are restaurants, brew pubs, bed and

PHOTO breakfasts and a lovely lakefront all within walking distance of the Candy Bank,

KEVIN GARRETT beloved by kids of all ages. 201 carroll st, mandeville

LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM | 39 FIVE SPOTS

downtown covington The town’s historic district is a walkable feast for shopaholics, with quaint streets, cottage boutiques, restaurants, galleries and so much more. Check out Lee Lane, Rutland and Columbia streets for sure.

premier shopping centers, mandeville The Gap, Old Navy, Banana Republic and Anne Taylor Loft are among the shops at this large center on Highway 190.

river chase shopping center, covington Located at I-12 and Highway 21, the center beckons with Best Buy, Marshall’s, Target, Lane Bryant and more. (Restaurants and a multiplex movie theater, too.) Ready, set, shop pinnacle nord du lac, You can find everything from art and antiques covington to pet treats and tennis shoes in Slidell Find Kohl’s, Kirkland’s and Academy here, as well as s St. Tammany’s largest city, Slidell offers specialty shops like Ban a variety of shopping opportunities, in- Soleil Sunglasses and Bra cluding quaint shops in the Olde Towne Genie. Restaurants, A historic district and the larger and modern Fre- lodging and more coming. maux Town Center. I-12 at Pinnacle Parkway. Venture off the interstate and visit Olde Towne to check out the shops in the vicinity highway 21, covington of First, Erlanger and Carey streets. Barba- This busy stretch has ra’s Victorian Closet antique mall anchors become quite the corridor a corner and offers something for anyone. for shoppers with something Nearby are Aunt Tiques Curiosities, Café Pick up Louisiana souvenirs, quality new popping up weekly. Sim- Du Bone (for dog treats, of course), the Bayou State housewares and crazy-good ply Southern is one of 1808 Marketplace multi-artist gallery jars of Cajun Mayo or better yet, oooh, the faves here, a locals’ and Green Oaks Apothecary for soaps praline topping at Bayou Country Village. go-to spot for special and aromatherapy wants. A giant emporium of Louisiana-themed products, toys and food-stuffs, handcrafted gift items by If mall shopping’s your thing, visit T-shirts and cookbooks. Bayou Louisiana artists. Monk-made Fremaux Town Center on I-10 at the Fre- Country is located right on soap, jewelry, housewares, maux exit for retailers like Dillards, TJ Maxx, Interstate 10 at the Oak and more. Michael’s, Kohl’s, Best Buy and scores more. Harbor exit.

40 | LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM With 80,000 acres of wilderness preserve, the Northshore’s a birding paradise.

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KEVIN GARRETT Enter to Win A Northshore Getaway

Go to www.LouisianaNorthshore.com/getaway, sign up to receive emails, and you’ll automatically be entered to win a trip for two!

the getaway

Two-night stay at the Southern Hotel Sunset kayak paddle with Bayou Adventure Tour with Cajun Encounters Dinner at LOLA in Covington Dinner at Oxlot 9 in the Southern Hotel Breakfast at Liz’s Where Y’at Diner Lunch at Palmettos on the Bayou KEVIN GARRETTKEVIN Northshore culinary & brewery basket PHOTO

go to louisiananorthshore.com/things-to-do/top-ten for more vacation ideas.