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Mdina Trägt Dazu Bei

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Mdina Trägt Dazu Bei Marsascala 123 Malta Beeindruckender Steinhaufen: Tempelkomplex von Hagar Qim – Der Südosten Der Südosten Jahrhunderte lang war der Südosten Maltas wegen ständiger Piratenüber- fälle gefürchtet und unterentwickelt. Den alten Gehöften der Region sieht man noch immer ihre Wehrhaftigkeit an. Erst im 19. Jh. entstanden aus klei- nen Dörfern kleine Städte. Heute wird das Terrain Stück für Stück vom gro- ßen Einzugsgebiet Vallettas erobert. Das industrielle und wirtschaftliche Wachstum Maltas fordert zudem seinen Preis. Die Marsaxlokk Bay musste ihn mit ihrer Schönheit bezahlen – ein Kraftwerk, Maltas Freeport und Petrochemieanlagen machten die Idylle zunichte. Das Gebiet rund um Mqabba ist den Globigerinenkalk-Steinbrüchen zum Opfer gefallen. Den- noch hat die Gegend ihren Reiz, dennoch gibt es viel zu entdecken, z. B. traumhafte Felsstrände auf der Delimara-Halbinsel, das glitzernde Wasserfarbenspiel der Blue Grotto, oder die Tempelanlagen von Hagar Qim und Mnajdra. Als einziges touristi- sches Zentrum dieser Region hat sich Marsascala hervorgetan. Zabbar Das knapp 15.000 Einwohner zählende Zabbar ist für die meisten Reisenden ledig- lich Durchgangsstation auf dem Weg von Valletta nach Marsascala. Eine erste Blüte erlebte die Stadt im 18. Jh., als sich der deutsche Großmeister Ferdinand Hompesch ihrer annahm und sie unter seine Schirmherrschaft stellte. Ihr Beiname Città Hom- pesch und der Hompeschbogen am Ortseingang, den man im Kreisverkehr von Val- letta kommend zwangsläufig passiert, erinnern noch daran. Aufgrund ihrer späten Entwicklung ist die Stadt weiträumig angelegt, verwinkelte Gassen wie in mittel- alterlichen Städten fehlen. 124 Insel Malta/Der Südosten Außer der Wallfahrtskirche Ta’ Grazzia, die 1737 ihre heutige Fassade erhielt, und dem angeschlossenen Kirchenmuseum gibt es nicht viel zu besichtigen. Die große Kuppel setzte man übrigens erst 1928 auf das Gotteshaus, mehr als ein Jahrhundert nachdem die Franzosen die alte mit einem Kanonenschuss zum Einsturz gebracht hatten. Interessanter als die Kirche selbst ist jedoch das an ihrer rechten Seite liegende Zabbar Sanctuary Museum, dessen Sammlung vor allem durch die Unterschiedlich- keit und Vielfalt der Ausstellungsstücke überrascht. Die Palette reicht von Votiv- bildern, insbesondere von geretteten Schiffsbesatzungen, über archäologische Fund- stücke der Gegend bis zu Modellschiffen, die aus Streichhölzern gebastelt wurden. •Öffnungszeiten Kirche, tägl. 6–12 u. 16– Nr. 22 nach Cospicua (Three Cities), Nr. 19 19.15 Uhr. Museum, nur So 9–12 Uhr. Kein und Nr. 20 nach Marsascala. Eintritt, eine kleine Spende wird jedoch •Einkaufen Sa 7–11 Uhr großer Markt. erwartet. •Festa Das Patronatsfest zählt zu den •Busverbindung Nr. 18, 19, 20 und 21 von schönsten der Insel, am ersten Sonntag und nach Valletta. Bus Nr. 21 nach Xghajra, nach dem 8. September. uXghajra: Ein Abstecher in das knapp 1000 Einwohner zählende Xghajra, dessen Häuser in Hanglage hinter der Küste aufsteigen, lohnt nicht. Der Ort bietet keine ansprechenden Bademöglichkeiten, es gibt keine Hotels, keine Restaurants, nur ein paar Bars. Busverbindung Nr. 21 von und nach Valletta. Marsascala (Marßaskala) Im Winter wirkt Marsascala wie ein Geisterstädtchen. Im Sommer ist dage- gen die Hölle los, denn viele Malteser – und auch Ausländer – haben hier einen Zweitwohnsitz. Und es werden immer mehr, was dem Ort nicht gera- de zum Vorteil gereicht. Besucht man Marsascala (auch: Marsaskala) bei Tag, wirkt das Städtchen enttäu- schend: Langweilige Neubauten überragen die gleichnamige Bay, die wenigen alten maltesischen Häuser mit ihren schmucken Fassaden und Erkern gehen dabei unter. Dazwischen zig Baustellen, vermüllte Baulücken und marode Bausubstanz. Der Ort gedeiht und fault gleichzeitig. Vielleicht verhelfen EU-Gelder Marsascala mal zu einem Städteplaner. Dabei liegt Marsascala recht idyllisch an einer fjordartigen Bucht, in der die traditio- nellen bunten Fischerboote, die Luzzus, am Morgen im glitzernden Wasser schaukeln. Und am Abend besitzt das Städtchen sogar Charme, wenn rund um die Bucht eine Lichterkette erstrahlt und auf dem palmengesäumten Uferboulevard flaniert wird. Der Bauboom in den letzten Jahren hat die Stadtgrenze auf die weiter südlich gele- gene Bajja San Tumas (St. Thomas Bay) mit ihren paar Metern Sandstrand ausge- dehnt. Zwischen den Schuppen der Fischer stehen dort kleine Ferienhütten. Sie sind ziemlich lieblos errichtet worden und tragen nicht gerade dazu bei, die Bucht zu verschönern. Wie die Marsascala Bay gewinnt aber auch die Bajja San Tumas mit der untergehenden Sonne an Reiz. Insbesondere an Wochenenden, wenn die Malteser hier ihre feucht-fröhlichen Barbecue-Abende veranstalten, herrscht Aus- gelassenheit und Freude. Ansonsten sorgen dort ein paar einfache Bars, zwei Pizze- rien und ein empfehlenswertes Fischrestaurant für Abwechslung. Die vielen Restaurants und Bars in der Marsascala Bay hingegen lassen sich kaum mehr zählen. An Sommerwochenenden findet man dort übrigens nur noch schwer- Marsascala 125 Malta – Abendstimmung – Marsascala Der Südosten lich einen Platz, denn dann wird das Städtchen zum ausgelassenen Treffpunkt der aufgestylten maltesischen Teenies – sehenswert. Verbindungen/Diverses ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ •Bus Nr. 22 nach Cospicua (Three Cities), alte Modelle. Autos ab 58 € für 3 Tage (Min- Nr. 19 und Nr. 20 nach Valletta. In die Bajja destleihdauer, ohne Vollkasko). ¢ 79639334 San Tumas fährt von Valletta über Zejtun (mobil). Bus Nr. 30. Nach Marsaxlokk und zu ande- •Einkaufen An der Triq ix-Xatt auf Höhe ren Zielen im Süden Maltas steigt man in der Kirche wird im Sommer bis Mitternacht Paola um (→ S. 107). Gemüse von Kleintransportern verkauft. •Taxi Mit den schwarzen Taxis von Joe’s •Festa Am 26. Juli oder am darauf folgen- Garage (¢ 79639354) kostet die Fahrt zum den Wochenende. Airport 16 € und nach Valletta 14 €. Weiße •Geld Bank of Valletta mit Automat nahe Taxis stehen am Ende der Bucht bereit. der Kirche auf der Nordseite der Bucht. → •Ärztliche Versorgung Wissenswertes Einen weiteren Geldautomaten finden Sie Marsascal von A bis Z, S. 45. z. B. neben dem Restaurant Jakarta im •Ausflüge Das komplette Ausflugspro- Zentrum. a gramm (→ S. 35) der großen Tourenanbie- •Kino Im Sun City Cine Palace an der Triq ter ist z. B. über Bj-Car Rentals (s. u.) zu tal-Gardiel laufen in 4 Kinosälen aktuelle buchen. Die meisten Touren starten in Spielfilme in englischer Sprache. Sliema, i. d. R. wird dazu ein Zubringerser- •Öffentliche Toiletten Unterhalb der Kirche. vice von Marsascala angeboten. •Polizei Nahe der Kirche in der Triq Zon- •Autoverleih Bj-Car Rentals, an der Ufer- qor. Die Ein-Mann-Wache ist jedoch nur straße auf der Nordseite der Bucht. Autos selten besetzt. Im Notfall hilft die Polizei in ab 69 € (Mindestleihdauer, ohne Vollkasko) Zabbar weiter, ¢ 21826931. für 3 Tage. ¢ 21632976, mobil 79555222. •Post Im Souvenirshop Midas an der Joe’s Garage, an der Ausfallstraße nach Nordseite der Bucht. Valletta, Triq Sant’ Antnin. Überwiegend 126 Insel Malta/Der Südosten Übernachten______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Das Gros der Hotels ist heruntergekommen, die Zahl an empfehlenswerten Über- nachtungsmöglichkeiten bescheiden. So manches Haus würden wir gar nicht auf- führen, wäre die Auswahl größer. **** Corinthia Jerma Palace Hotel (14), mit schönem Blick über die Bucht. DZ 37 €. südlich der Bucht an der Spitze der Land- ¢ 21636392. zunge. Orientalisch anmutende Architek- ** Hotel Cerviola (7), ebenfalls auf der Süd- tur. Über 300 Zimmer mit Aircondition, de- seite der Bucht, etwas zurückversetzt an der nen eine Beauty-Kur gut tun würde. Sehr Triq Il-Qaliet. Auch zu diesem Haus muss beliebt bei Deutschen, Russen und Li- man sagen: Charmante Hotels sehen anders byern. Herr Ghadaffi persönlich pflegte hier aus. Im Sommer in trinkfester britischer schon seine Ferien zu verbringen. Pool, Hand. DZ mit Bad, TV und Aircondition 46 €. Konferenzräume, Tauchschule. Gnadenlos Ganzjährig. ¢ 21633287, [email protected] überteuert: EZ 130 €, DZ 245 €. ¢ 21633222, Ramla Lodge (17), an der Bajja San Tumas. www.corinthiahotels.com. 32 geräumige, dringendst restaurierungsbe- *** Etvan Hotel (9), an der Südseite der dürftige Zimmer, z. T. mit Buchtblick. Pool Bucht, etwas zurückversetzt. 50 überwie- zum Bakterienzüchten. Pizzeria. Freundli- gend kleine, saubere Zimmer. Relativ
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