l i s 1 t S 0 e e 2 n r .7 v E Monument o i L n n KILMUI R l i g T n e S T UUIGIG : k I y c e L u N i a L i l 1 GEARY o n E 0 c l h i d 2

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Snap shot y The impressive flat-topped mountains, MacLeod’s Tables, offer exhilarating e climbs and fantastic views

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Published by West Publishing Company Limited, Pairc nan Craobh, Broadford, IV49 9AP

TRACK LISTING 1 The Loch Tay Boat Song

2 Introduction The FREE V THE 3 South West Ross – Lochcarron, Plockton, Kyle 4 North West Ross – north of Lochcarron to Ullapool Holiday Guide 5 South Skye, and Mallaig 6 , Central Skye and to the I 7 North West Skye West Highlands S 8 North East Skye 9 Some Gaelic phrases

and Islands I 10 The Marquis of Huntly’s Farewell

11 Introduction T 12 Le Sud-ouest du Ross – Lochcarron, Plockton, Kyle

13 Le Nord-ouest du Ross – du nord O de Lochcarron jusqu’à Ullapool 14 Le Sud de Skye, Sleat et Mallaig N15 Portree, le Centre de Skyeo et Raasay rth West Skye 16 Le Nord-ouest de Skye R 17 Le Nord-est de Skye 18 Quelques phrases et expressions en Gaélique 19 Big John MacNeill’s Reel 20 Einleitung 7 16 25 21 Südwest-Ross – Lochcarron, Plockton, Kyle • Voices 22 Nordwest-Ross – nördlich von Lochcarron bis nach Ullapool Anna Murray | Ann Desseyn | Andreas Wolff 23 Süd-Skye, Sleat und Mallaig • Writer 24 Portree, Mittel-Skye und Raasay Iain Finlay Macleod 25 Nordwest-Skye • Translations 26 Nordost-Skye Gerlinde Krug | Fanny Fraser 27 Gälische Redewendungen 28 • Music The Barren Rocks of Aden Sgoil Chiùil na Gàidhealtachd (National Centre of Excellence in Traditional Music) Fine hospitality awaits you in North-West Skye For an eagle’s-eye view of the north townships which have changed little Skye Camping and west of Skye let’s imagine we are on over many generations. There’s the Caravanning Club Site the summit of one of MacLeod’s Tables, rugged splendour of Castle Healabhal Mhor and Healabhal Bheag, on its rock by the seashore on Loch twin flat-topped basalt hills which Dunvegan. Mighty Loch , Loch dominate the skyline of this most Dunvegan and Loch Snizort, which cut dramatic corner of Skye. their way into the landscape of north onon the beautifulbeautiful From this lofty viewing point, the eye west Skye, create the most dramatic IsleIsle of SkyeSkye can wander over quiet crofting vista of land and sea to be found anywhere in the British Isles. The jagged Ouurr modermodernn campsitcampsitee has a multitude ooff ffacilities,acilities, as wwellell as spectspectacularacular views ridge to the south, the hills of aandnd a wwarmarm wwelcome!elcome! OOpenpen frfromom 2 April - 9 OOctoberctober 22015,015, come to the east and out across and see what tthishis stunning sitsitee has ttoo o o er.er. the Minch to the west the islands of * NNonon MMembersembers WWelcomeelcome * MModernodern WWashroomashroom Lewis, Harris and the Uists all add to * FFamilyamily BatBathroomhroom Drink… Eat… Tap Your Feet * DDisabledisabled FFacilitiesacilities the splendour. * LLaundryaundry RRoomoom ISLE OF SKYE But let’s descend and explore the * MMotorhomeotorhome SServiceervice PPointoint * EEcoco Friendly Chemical DDisposalisposal PPointoint Offering a unique experience in our places of interest. * OOnn SitSitee Shop Bar and Restaurant venue * HHardstandingardstanding and GGrassrass PitPitchesches On to the most westerly point in * 116amp6amp Mains Electric HHookook Ups Real Ales, Hand Pump Cider, Malt Whisky * CCampingamping PPodsods Skye, Neist Point and its lighthouse. * DDogsogs WWelcomeelcome Seasonally changing menu with emphasis * DogDog WashWash on locally sourced produce * 3/43/4 Mile LLochoch Side WWalkalk RESTAURANT AND BAR MENUS AVAILABLE * Fishing * PayphonePaaypyphone serving lunches and dinners 7 days a week Old * WiFi Byre Live Traditional Music Sessions Skye BookBook nownow byby visiting www.edinbaneinn.co.uk www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk/skyewww.campingandcaravanningclub.co..uk/skuk/skye gallery, cafe & apartment oror byby calling our contactcontact centrcentre:e: 01470 582414 On the A863 in Ose, near Dunvegan, Isle of Skye 024024 7647 54265426 or thethe sitesite direct:direct: 0147001470 582230582230.. [email protected] Photographic gallery/cafe, specialising in original images of Skye and the polar regions. While in the gallery, enjoy SkyeSkye Camping and CaravanningCaravanning coffee and home-baking, as well as soup and light lunches. ClubClub Site,Site, LLochoch GGreshornish,reshornish, Open daily from 11:00 to 17:00 [from 14:00 on Saturdays]. Edinbane,Edinbane, Isle of SkyeSkye Closed Wednesdays. Credit cards taken. IV51IV51 9PS www.oldbyreskye.co.uk tel: 01470 572367

Specialists in both woodfired & saltglazed handmade functional pottery

Monday–Friday 9am–6pm (7 days Easter–October) Edinbane, Isle of Skye IV51 9PW Tel: 01470 582 234 www.edinbane-pottery.co.uk

62 Here can be seen some of the most There are many sites of historical friendly bed-and-breakfast available in magnificent cliffs in the Hebrides, interest throughout the area, the most many of the croft houses. There are towering to over 1,000 feet and home accessible being the broch at Struan — good hotels, camping sites, self-catering of the golden eagle and many varied a fortified round tower built in the Iron accommodation, restaurants and many species of seabird. Age, and many of which were still in fine craft and woollen shops. So spend a On the other side of the peninsula is use when the Norsemen began their few days among the villages and people , where the famed MacCrimmon pipers had their piping Hebridean raids. of north west Skye and enjoy the school from about 1500 to 1800. Here The visitor to the area will find hospitality you will find here. ɀ there is a memorial cairn to the MacCrimmons, who were pipers to the chiefs of Clan MacLeod. The Also worth a visit is Borreraig Park Waterside museum and croft shop, where you can Cafe Bistro FULLY LICENSED • OPEN ALL YEAR see a huge range of locally-made We have wonderful views of knitwear and crafts goods. For music with outside at the lovers, it also has a stock of Highland seating available ATHOLL FILLING STATION Relax and enjoy homemade soups, Convenience store with off sales bagpipes and chanters, as well as tapes main courses, cakes and snacks Main Road, DUNVEGAN, Isle of Skye • 01470 521487 and CDs. Looking over Loch Dunvegan to the north you will see at Clagain one of the Open Easter few beaches on Skye, the Coral Beach to October: with its creamy white coral sand — Tues-Sat 10am-4pm perfect for a warm summer’s day. Outwith these times Onward then to Dunvegan and its please ring castle, ancient home of the Clan Upper , MacLeod for over 700 years. Visit and enjoy woodland Glendale IV55 8WY (follow lower road towards loch) walks and the castle gardens. For those of you who enjoy quilting and The peninsula on the north patchwork, come and be inspired by 01470 511393 [email protected] k side of Loch Dunvegan, overlooking the Jennifer’s stunning quilts , wonderful Minch and the Outer Isles, is perhaps fabrics and quilting notions . the best place to enjoy a west-coast sunset. Stein village boasts the oldest pub on Skye. Further on there’s Church which the MacDonalds of Uist set on fire, burning within the MacLeod congregation.

ThDeu nOvegladn S cIshle oof oSkly eR e s IVt5a5u 8GrUant www.oldschoolrestaurant.co.uk 01470 521421

“A perfect end to our day on Skye” – The Scotsman HISTORIC COUNTRY HOUSE Serving an à la carte menu from 6pm, LUXURY ACCOMMODATION and Sunday lunches TRANQUIL LOCHSIDE HAVEN Coaches and Children’s Fresh local Self 01470 582266 functions for menu and produce Seafood catering www.greshornishhouse.com up to 60 by changing and quality accommodation EDINBANE, ISLE OF SKYE, IV51 9PN request facilities Scottish Meats available BOOKING ESSENTIAL

63 Sample the magic of the Waternish peninsula

The Waternish peninsula offers house provides another fascinating whales or take a romantic evening cruise something special for every visitor to experience. and watch the sky flame in all its Skye who ventures off the main Portree- Brae and Dandelion Designs are watercolour glory from this Dunvegan road. Passing magical Fairy among the galleries you’ll find exhibiting unforgettable spot, voted by Traveller Bridge, views quickly open out across paintings, photography, ceramics, print magazine as having the best sunset the wee islands of Loch Dunvegan and works and crafts on hand. For a little views in the world! beyond to vistas of the Outer Hebrides, inspiration, try the pop-up quirky As the skies fade into pitch darkness, try the Atlantic surf and the wide open sky. antiques shop or step into an artist's life one of our three Dark Sky discovery Work up an appetite with a stroll from on a local painting workshop. points for the ultimate star-gazing one of the many self-catering Visitors can walk forestry and coastal experience — and if you're here in establishments or bed and breakfasts to trails, see the legendary Annat's Temple, autumn or winter you might just spot sample local fare and craic at the Stein the Boy's Cairn, Trumpan Church, the the shimmering aurora borealis. Inn, the oldest inn on Skye at the heart ancient fort of Dun Hallin or trek to the Luxury accommodation, first-rate of the community, and don't miss the lighthouse at panoramic Waternish hospitality, unique visitor attractions and world-famous Lochbay Seafood Point. Keep watch for our regularly- an abundance of outdoor activities Restaurant. Five-star visitor attraction sighted white-tailed sea eagles as you make this area a strategically-located Skyeskyns offers free guided tours of go. base for your island visit. Let this their traditional exhibition tannery and Step aboard a Diver's Eye boat trip for peninsula rich in wildlife and steeped in showroom and Shilasdair shop and dye- the chance to see basking sharks and history capture your heart. ɀ

STEP ACROSS AND DISCOVER THE MAGIC

A family owned traditional Highland Inn overlooking a sea loch with views to the www.visitwaternish.co.uk Western Isles

Taste delicious home cooked food or The Skye Shop sample some of the collection of over 100 malt whiskies Follow the Waternish signs to Stay the night and wake refreshed to a discover our unique shop stocking naturally dyed yarns, designer traditional cooked Scottish breakfast — BRAE FASACH GALLERY/CAFE just right to set you up for the day! garments and knitkits. Waternish Visit the dyehouse and dye OPEN DAILY 11AM-5PM (not Saturdays) garden. Light Lunches • Bar Suppers www.ianwilliams-skye.co.uk 01470 592732 Locally Sourced Produce Accommodation • Real Ales

t: 01470 592362 e: [email protected] Open 10am-6pm w: stein-inn.co.uk Easter-end October MacLeod’s Terrace Tel: 01470 592297 Waternish Check out The Visitor website at VISITOR Isle of Skye IV55 8GA www.welcometothehighlands.com www.theskyeshilasdairshop.co.uk ATTRACTION

64 Waternish

&25$/%($&+:$7(51,6+37 1(,67370$&/(2'60$,'(1¶6

ZZZGLYHUVH\HFRXN3+21(www.divers-eye.co.uk. Phone: 01470 592219

SHEEPSKIN BABYCARE CUSHIONS GLOVES GILETS HATS PETMATS SLIPPERS

“for everything in sheepskin” ’s family owned traditional exhibition tannery invites you to take their FREE GUIDED TOUR to witness time-honoured methods of making leather. Afterwards, why not browse and purchase from perhaps the most comprehensive range of luxurious natural sheepskins and sheepskin products to be found anywhere. OPEN ALL YEAR 9.00am - 6.00pm SKYESKYNS LOCH BAY, WATERNISH, ISLE OF SKYE IV55 8GD 01470 592237

SHOP SECURELY ONLINE AT VISITOR ATTRACTION www.skyeskyns.co.uk

65 Wealth of clan history to be found at Dunvegan Castle

Nowadays Dunvegan Castle and prophecy that it will be unfurled Outside the castle itself visitors can Gardens is still the official home of again to bring victory in the MacLeod enjoy a walk in the extensive gardens the MacLeod chief and is said to be clan’s darkest hour. Also on display is or take a boat trip through Loch one of the oldest inhabited castles in the MacLeod drinking horn which Dunvegan to observe a seal colony at Scotland. However, instead of each successive chief must drain in close quarters, or charter one of their repelling invaders the fortress is now one gulp to inherit the title. traditional clinker boats for a loch open to visitors and, being one of Keeping alive the romanticism of the cruise or fishing expedition. Skye’s most famous landmarks, it 1745 rebellion and the Bonnie Prince, Souvenirs, crafts, jewellery and books proves very popular. the castle has on display artefacts can be purchased from either of the The present chief, Hugh MacLeod of associated with Charles Edward craft shops in the car park or in the MacLeod, is the 30th chief of clan Stuart. There are the glasses worn by castle which are open from 10am to MacLeod and still resides in the home Donald MacLeod of , who 5.30pm (last entry 5pm). Food and of his ancestors. There is a 12-minute piloted the boat that took Charles on drink, from snacks to a substantial audio-visual programme presenting island-hopping flights from the meal, can be enjoyed at the an insight into the history of Redcoats; a pin cushion belonging to Dunvegan Castle and the clan. Flora MacDonald embroidered with MacLeod’s Table Cafe at the castle or The video is a good starting point to the names of some who suffered in at any of the hotels and restaurants the wealth of clan history offered on the 1745 rebellion; there is even a in Dunvegan village and the display at Dunvegan Castle. There are lock of hair said to be clipped from surrounding area. ɀ pieces dating from the 15th century the Prince’s head by Flora MacDonald through to artefacts associated with as a keepsake and, to this day, Charles Edward Stuart by way of preserved in a locket. hunting trophies, and all manner of Even the more ordinary contents of weapons and curiosities. the castle built up over the centuries Among the prize exhibits is the are of interest. There are many fine N1orDthUN WVEeGsAtN S CkAySTe LE The famous , the sacred banner oil paintings and antiques, and the Don’t miss ancestral home of the chieftains of of the Clan MacLeod. It is surrounded library contains many rare historical the Clan MacLeod, the castle can trace by legends of victory and the books. its history back to around 1200AD. It is one of the most popular tourist attractions on the island. 2 MACLEOD’S TABLES Two impressive flat-topped mountains, Healabhal Beag and Healabhal Mor, which offer an exhilarating climb and fantastic views. 3 NEIST POINT Skye’s most westerly point and home to Neist Point Lighthouse. 4 STEIN VILLAGE Home of Skye’s oldest inn, lovely shoreside walks and a range of watersports. 5 TRUMPAN CHURCH Scene of a bloody massacre of the MacLeod clan by the MacDonalds in the middle of the 16th century. 6 CORAL BEACH One of the few beaches on Skye, with great views of the highest sea cliffs in Skye, Dunvegan Head.

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