AMAZON RIVER CRUISE A BIRDING AND NATURAL HISTORY ODYSSEY ABOARD ZAFIRO [L IMA BIRD LIST INCLUDED AT END ] FEBRUARY 21–MARCH 3, 2019 Spectacled Owl. Pulsatrix perspicillata. Photo: D. Ascanio. LEADERS : DAVID ASCANIO , STEVE HILTY & ANDREW WHITTAKER IE’S NATURALIST : ANGEL CÁRDENAS SHIP NATURALISTS : DANIEL VASQUEZ , JUAN TEJADA & SEGUNDO MESIA LIST COMPILED BY : DAVID ASCANIO VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE , SUITE 1003 AUSTIN , TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD .COM AMAZON RIVER CRUISE A BIRDING AND NATURAL HISTORY ODYSSEY February 21–March 3, 2019 By David Ascanio Photo album: https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidascanio/albums/72157707657587004 Our Amazon Cruise started on the opposite side of the Andes, on the Pacific coast of Peru. Our first stop was in the famous Pantanos de Villa , a wetland where rangers and conservationists have been holding a long fight against summer-house investors and squatters to protect a habitat that hosts an amazing number of resident and migrant birds alike. We were astonished by the clouds (yes, these were virtually uncountable clouds) of Franklin’s Gulls (boreal migrant), dozens of Black Skimmers (local migrants from the Amazon region), a single Gray Gull (austral migrant), Belcher’s and Kelp gulls, the gorgeous White- tufted Grebe, and the endangered Peruvian Thick- knee (endemic to the arid strip coast of the Pacific Ocean). Later, we drove further south to the picturesque village of Pucusana, where we boarded two boats to see the birdlife attracted by the cold waters of the Humboldt Current. We were rewarded with views of five Humboldt Penguins molting (Andrew Whittaker explained later during recap that the complete molt will take at least three weeks), endemic Peruvian Boobies and Peruvian Pelicans, Blackish and American oystercatchers, Blue-footed Booby (colonizing this area and only seen here since a few years ago), Surf Cinclodes (endemic), and the super beautiful Inca Tern. After a fruitful full day on the coast of Peru, we took a flight across the Andes to the city of Iquitos, the capital of the department of Loreto, in the heart of the Peruvian Amazon. As we crossed the Andes, I realized that in just an hour and a half we had reached the Amazon. This same journey took a year of travel in extreme conditions for the conquistadores in search of the famous El Dorado. But for us, the riches were found above the ground, where a complicated network of rivers has shaped what today is the most complex biome in the world. A short session of birding in the promenade introduced us to some of the common bird species, including the always beautiful Purple-throated Euphonia, Palm and Blue-gray tanagers, Yellow- browed Sparrow, and Black-billed Thrush. A distant Fork-tailed Flycatcher turned out to be a good record since it is considered a rare species in the Peruvian Amazon. In the late afternoon we embarked Zafiro, and with views of an astonishing sunset filled with reds, oranges, yellows, and pinks, we started sailing the mysterious Amazon River. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Amazon River Cruise, 2019 The first full day found us in Tahuayo, a tributary of the Amazon. As soon as we were on the skiffs, the three groups were enjoying a wealth of birds, from antbirds to tyrant-flycatchers, tanagers, and cotingas. This location has become a reliable place to look for Black-tailed Antbird, which we nailed well. This antbird is a bird whose voice was unknown probably until two decades ago. In the afternoon, we learned about the basics of River Island dynamics and thus, the process of speciation in bird species that are nowadays called “River Island Specialists.” Because we had learned about these specialists, the afternoon outing focused on the river island, and our efforts turned productive with views of Dark-breasted and Parker’s spinetails, Olive-spotted Hummingbird, Black-and-white Antbird, and Orange-headed Tanager. The day closed with an impressive storm in the distance with the gray clouds moving at an unimaginable speed. The following day opened with clouds of contrasting colors, from orange to yellow and gray, and a bright yellow ball rising on the horizon. In the Yarapa River we enjoyed seeing Black- throated Antbird, various species of trogons, and an amazing array of tyrant-flycatchers (including the bumble-bee looking Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher and the inconspicuous Olivaceous Flatbill). Of special interest was a Sunbittern photographed from one of the skiffs and four species of woodpeckers reported by another one. The number of bird families seen today seemed endless and included hawks, falcons, parrots, tanagers, dacnises, hummingbirds, orioles, and becards. In the afternoon we crossed the junction of the Amazon’s two main tributaries (where this mighty river starts), and we were now inside a protected area. After a well-deserved siesta, we learned about the Pacaya-Samiria Reserve by Juan Tejada, followed by a meeting with Angel to trace the ship’s route using our maps. In the afternoon we visited a narrow channel where an unidentified species of swift was observed flying over our heads, as well as Cocoi Heron, Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper, Scarlet-crowned Barbet (nesting), Dusky-headed Parakeet (also nesting), and a nice male Bare-necked Fruitcrow. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Amazon River Cruise, 2019 The following day was filled with great expectations. In previous years we had slowed down the ship’s speed because in this stretch of the river, the current was cutting a large moriche palm (Mauritia flexulosa) stand, and the number of dead palms allowed us to see macaws, parrots, and parakeets roosting, or to watch a breeding site. With great surprise we noticed that all of the palms were gone and that the river current had cut a great deal of its bank. Still, some macaws remained in the area, and we enjoyed pairs of Blue-and-yellow Macaws as well as more than a hundred Red-bellied Macaws. We also nailed Orange-winged, Festive, and Yellow- crowned parrots, along with loose flocks of Tui Parakeets and large and compact flocks of White-winged Parakeets flying in the distance. A challenge to all was to see a pair of White- browed Purpletufts. An easier task was to enjoy a close pair of Capped Herons. There were also flocks of Eastern Kingbirds (boreal migrant) and Fork-tailed Flycatchers (austral migrants). Later, we visited a river called Yanashpa (or Yanallpa, in Quechua), which happened to be a great birding location in the past, and this year was no exception! All three skiffs reported a feast of Amazonian birds, and a sampling included Paradise and Green-and-gold tanagers, Blue and Yellow-bellied dacnises, Lemon-throated and Scarlet-crowned barbets, Moustached and Pygmy antwrens, Black-crested and Fasciated antshrikes, and much more. We also observed a group of Saki Monkeys as well as a family of the always-active Saddleback Tamarin. After the siesta, the day continued with Steve Hilty’s presentation about “Amazon Biodiversity.” Later, we visited an oxbow lake called Yuracocha (Uracocha), where we were delighted with views of the bizarre Hoatzin, as well as a large number of Eastern Kingbirds and a roost containing Neotropic Cormorants and Great Egrets. Another impressive sunset with golden, orange, and yellow colors gave way to the night, with large fishing-bats that were foraging over the vast river. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Amazon River Cruise, 2019 Continuing upstream, on Wednesday we stopped in another location, a wide and large channel called Zapote that connects two parts of the Ucayali. Although part of the Pacaya-Samiria reserve, lumbering continues to be a serious threat in this area. Despite that much of the emergent trees have been taken down, understory life remains active, and we were able to see Band-tailed Antbird and Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper. Zapote has also been known in previous years as a good site for seeing raptors, and we nailed Slate-colored Hawk, Gray- headed Kite, Great Black Hawk, and Slender-billed and Snail kites. But the great surprise was seeing a Spectacled Owl during the daytime! We also enjoyed views of Pink-footed Tarantula and two species of primates, the Monk Saki Monkey and the Saddleback Tamarin. To close a wonderful morning, we also had great opportunities to photograph Cream-colored and Spot- breasted woodpeckers nesting. In the afternoon, we learned about “Superstitious Tales of the Amazon,” and later we again birded Yanashpa Creek until it got dark. Having been in the furthest away location of our route, we started moving downstream, and our following stop was in a previously visited tributary, Yarapa. Since we had birded the lower part of this river some days ago, we decided to explore the areas further inside this wonderful tributary. The morning started very active, with Paradise and Green-and-gold tanagers, a Forest Elaenia singing, and Blue and Yellow-bellied dacnises accompanying a feeding flock. Some of us got astonishing views of a singing Sungrebe, and others nailed Dusky Titi Monkeys. There were Horned Screamers testing their loud voices, trogons delivering a rather softer call, Black-fronted Nunbirds sounding like car alarms, barbets and aracaris seeking fruiting trees, parrots and parakeets commuting to their foraging grounds, and a pair of the uncommon Paradise Jacamar perched atop a bare branch of a tree. It was a birder’s paradise! Once we reached the junction of the Ucayali and Marañon rivers (where the Amazon starts), we went upstream the Marañon for some distance. In the afternoon, we walked short trails where we added Amazonian and Rufous motmots and Yellow-billed Jacamar, and also heard tinamous singing in the distance. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Amazon River Cruise, 2019 Our last full day in the Amazon found us in Yanayacu de Pucate where our efforts paid off well.