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Food Anxiety in Globalising Vietnam Food Anxiety in Globalising Vietnam Edited by Judith Ehlert and Nora Katharina Faltmann Food Anxiety in Globalising Vietnam Judith Ehlert • Nora Katharina Faltmann Editors Food Anxiety in Globalising Vietnam Editors Judith Ehlert Nora Katharina Faltmann Department of Development Studies Department of Development Studies University of Vienna University of Vienna Vienna, Austria Vienna, Austria ISBN 978-981-13-0742-3 ISBN 978-981-13-0743-0 (eBook) https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-13-0743-0 Library of Congress Control Number: 2018955436 © The Editor(s) (if applicable) and The Author(s) 2019 Open Access This book is licensed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/), which permits use, sharing, adapta- tion, distribution and reproduction in any medium or format, as long as you give appropriate credit to the original author(s) and the source, provide a link to the Creative Commons licence and indicate if changes were made. The images or other third party material in this book are included in the book’s Creative Commons licence, unless indicated otherwise in a credit line to the material. If material is not included in the book’s Creative Commons licence and your intended use is not permitted by statutory regulation or exceeds the permitted use, you will need to obtain permission directly from the copyright holder. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of a specific statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. The publisher remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations. Cover credit: Carina Maier Published with the support of Austrian Science Fund (FWF): [PUB 506-Z29] This Palgrave Macmillan imprint is published by the registered company Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd. The registered company address is: 152 Beach Road, #21-01/04 Gateway East, Singapore 189721, Singapore To Carina, for her clarity, critical thinking and cheerfulness Acknowledgements This book would not have been possible without the generous support of the Austrian Science Fund (FWF). Its funding of our research project ‘A Body-Political Approach to the Study of Food – Vietnam and the Global Transformations’ (P 27438) marked the beginning of insightful research on Food Anxieties in Vietnam – a hot and yet underexplored social phe- nomenon – and inspired the idea for this edited volume. Thanks to the financial support of the FWF, we were able to bring together academics from various areas of scholarship united in their passion for food issues and empirical contexts. With first draft in hand, the contributors to this book met in person for a writer’s workshop at the Department of Development Studies at the University of Vienna in March 2017. This intensive workshop was crucial in terms of co-reviewing the drafts, thereby refining the book’s common thread of food anxiety and (hope- fully) turning it into a coherent volume. Besides creating linkages between the individual chapters, the face-to-face discussions also established the necessary demarcation of thematically related chapters while creating inspiring dialogue about the particularities of the different disciplinary backgrounds of the authors. This workshop format offered an innovative space for in-depth scholarly debates and networking and – most of all – we definitely cherished the fun! As our get-together was hosted at the ‘academic home’ of the editors, we would like to thank our colleagues at the Department for Development Studies at the University of Vienna. vii viii Acknowledgements Thanks to Michaela Hochmuth for her crucial support in the early stages of the book idea through her thematic input, organisational help and overall contribution as a former research assistant on the project; Elke Christiansen for her great photographs of the workshop and Ines Höckner for the workshop documentation. We particularly want to thank head of department Petra Dannecker for her support throughout the book’s gen- esis and her feedback on earlier drafts of the introduction (and especially for constantly pushing us to keep our own deadlines). After the workshop, a couple of feedback loops on the drafts followed, before putting it all together in this edited volume. Thank you, Andrea Kremser, for the great work copy-editing the – at some point chaotic – script and for your flexibility, patience and attentive eye. Thanks to Joshua Pitt and Sophie Li at Palgrave/Springer Nature, who supported the pro- cess from proposal to reviews and final publication with reassuring ease. Also, we thank the anonymous reviewers for their encouraging and posi- tively challenging comments at an early stage of the proposal, which undoubtedly helped to sharpen our concept ideas. The biggest ‘thank you’ goes to Carina Maier. She has accompanied the whole process of the book from the workshop to manuscript submission as an undeniable organisational talent and reliable contact person for the book contributors and publishing house. Besides her resilience in putting up with all things bureaucratic, she has also provided the much appreci- ated analytical input and critical clarity at numerous stages of the book. We are also grateful for her photography skills, which produced the cover image of this book, the outcome of a joint motorbike trip through Ho Chi Minh City’s back alleys. Carina always saw the bigger picture behind this project and cheerfully encouraged us in this endeavour of editorship. Finally, the completion of this edited volume would also not have been possible without the great patience and support of our families and part- ners giving us the necessary grounding, rest and good food for bringing this project to an end. Contents 1 Food Anxiety: Ambivalences Around Body and Identity, Food Safety, and Security 1 Judith Ehlert and Nora Katharina Faltmann Part I Bodily Transgressions: Identity, Othering, and Self 41 2 Power Struggles and Social Positioning: Culinary Appropriation and Anxiety in Colonial Vietnam 43 Erica J. Peters 3 Forbidden from the Heart: Flexible Food Taboos, Ambiguous Culinary Transgressions, and Cultural Intimacy in Hoi An, Vietnam 77 Nir Avieli 4 Obesity, Biopower, and Embodiment of Caring: Foodwork and Maternal Ambivalences in Ho Chi Minh City 105 Judith Ehlert ix x Contents Part II Food Safety: Trust, Responsibilisation, and Coping 137 5 Trust and Food Modernity in Vietnam 139 Muriel Figuié, Paule Moustier, Nicolas Bricas, and Nguyen Thi Tan Loc 6 Between Food Safety Concerns and Responsibilisation: Organic Food Consumption in Ho Chi Minh City 167 Nora Katharina Faltmann 7 Urban Gardening and Rural-Urban Supply Chains: Reassessing Images of the Urban and the Rural in Northern Vietnam 205 Sandra Kurfürst Part III The Politics of Food ecurityS 233 8 From Food Crisis to Agrarian Crisis? Food Security Strategy and Rural Livelihoods in Vietnam 235 Timothy Gorman 9 When Food Crosses Borders: Paradigm Shifts in China’s Food Sectors and Implications for Vietnam 267 Hongzhou Zhang 10 Concluding Remarks: Anxiety as Invariant of Human Relation to Food 301 Jean-Pierre Poulain Notes on Contributors Nir Avieli holds a PhD in Cultural Anthropology and is working as a senior lecturer at the Department of Sociology and Anthropology at Ben-Gurion University, Israel. He is mainly interested in Vietnamese cuisine in its various guises, focusing on several relations of food and tourism, food and gender, and so on. He has been conducting anthropological fieldwork in the central Vietnamese town of Hoi An since 1998. Nicolas Bricas holds a degree in socioeconomics and is working at CIRAD (Centre de Coopération Internationale en Recherche Agronomique pour le Développement) in Montpellier, France. His research focuses on food security, food safety and sustainable food systems. He is the director of the UNESCO World Food Systems Chair based in Montpellier. Judith Ehlert is a sociologist and holds a PhD in Development Studies. She works as a post-doctoral researcher at the Department of Development Studies at the University of Vienna, Austria. She is the leader of the research project ‘A Body-Political Approach to the Study of Food – Vietnam and the Global Transformations’ funded by the Austrian Science Fund. Her main research interest lies in food sociology, body theories, knowledge and qualitative research methodologies. Nora Katharina Faltmann is a PhD candidate in development studies at the University of Vienna and a member of the scientific staff of the research project ‘A Body-Political Approach to the Study of Food – Vietnam and the Global xi xii Notes on Contributors Transformations’. Her areas of research interest include food studies from production to consumption and food safety in connection to questions of social inequality. Muriel Figuié holds a PhD in Sociology and is working at CIRAD in Montpellier, France. Her interests lie in food sociology and sociology of risk in relation to animals (meat consumption, zoonosis). She conducts research mainly in Southern countries (Asia, Southern Africa) focusing on health concerns, and trust-building in the context of globalisation. Timothy Gorman is a PhD candidate in the Department of Development Sociology at Cornell University in Ithaca, New York, and conducts research on agrarian transformations, climate change and food security in Southeast Asia. His dissertation fieldwork in Vietnam was supported by the Social Science Research Council, the Rural Sociological Society, and USAID’s Borlaug Global Food Security program. In the fall of 2018, he will be joining the faculty of Montclair State University, USA, as Assistant Professor of Sociology.
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