Update VVJ.XX

THE BARNACLE

Ih h i m i m h h h h ] j|)HIUtHHtMIH|

HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION OF SOUTHERN FLORIDA VOL. 4, NO. 5 JUNE 1977 PAGE 2 UPDATE/JUNE 1977

CONTENTS THE COMMODORE by Arva Moore Parks 2 The Commodore Arva Moore Parks Ralph Middleton Munroe Ralph Munroe spent many Remembering the healing 4 Growing Up At The Barnacle took great pride in the ac- boyhood summers in Con­ warmth of the tropical fron­ Patty Munroe Catlow as told to complishments of his cord visiting his grandfather tier of South Florida, Munroe Jean C. Taylor ancestors. His fourth great­ William Munroe who en­ sold his business and took his 7 Ned Beasley and Coconut wife to Biscayne Bay. This Grove grandfather, William Munroe, couraged his natural artistic Arva Moore Parks owned the Munroe Tavem in and mechanical talents. would not be a happy journey. 9 The BBYC and The Barnacle Lexington, Massachusetts William Munroe was a friend Soon after their departure, William M. Straight, M.D. that is now a Revolutionary of Emerson and the other their daughter, Edith, who 10 The Good Ship Micco War museum. William “Concord Wits” and a had been left with her grand­ Arva Moore Parks Munroe’s son, Jedediah was member of the prestigious mother became ill and died. 11 Book Reviews killed in the Battle of Lex­ “Social Circle.” Ralph was Poor Eva fared no better. She 12 Wirth Munroe and The Comanche. ington and Jedediah’s son greatly influenced by these died at their camp on the Daniel married the daughter people and their philosophy Miami River on April 2, 1882 of Revolutionary War hero of self-reliance, the love of and was buried nearby. Jonathan Parker. Their son nature and devotion to the Cast adrift by this dramatic COVER William moved to Concord, simple life. change in his life’s direction, Massachusetts where he The young Ralph was sent Munroe soon lost interest in bacame the first manufac­ away to school to receive the The Barnacle, Ralph Middle­ his northern affairs. He wrote ton Munroe’s Coconut Grove turer of lead pencils in the Un­ proper education for a young to Charles Peacock, whom he home , as it appears today. ited States. man of his station. It was not a had met while in South Ralph Munroe’s father, happy experience, however, Florida, and suggested that Thomas Munroe, was bom in because as he wrote “it was he build a hotel south of the Concord and married Lon­ not pickled in brine and for Miami River in what is now UPDATE doner Ellen Middleton, that time to this the sea and Coconut Grove, so visitors daughter of Ralph Middleton, those about it claimed much would have a place to stay. UPDATE, Copyright, June, a wealthy manufacturer and of my attention.” When Munroe arrived in late 1977, by the Historical Associa­ ship owner. After living in In order to please his fami­ 1882, the “Bay View House”, tion of Southern Florida. ly, Munroe pursued several UPDATE is published bi­ London for several years, which was located in what is monthly by the Historical Thomas and Ellen Munroe traditional business ventures now Peacock Park was Association of Southern Florida. returned to New York where but spent all his spare time almost completed. All rights reserved. Reprint of Ralph was bom in 1851. The sailing and eventually design­ materials is encouraged following After that Munroe returned family soon moved to Staten ing sailboats as a hobby. In the obtaining of written permis­ to South Florida each winter sion from the Association. Com­ Island where young Ralph 1877 he jumped at achance to and brought many of his munications should be addressed spent many happy hours come to South Florida, after to The Editor, Update, Historical northern friends with him. In watching ships pass in the hearing stories told by a Association of Southern Florida, 1889 he built a boat house on 3280 South Miami Avenue, Narrows. “wrecker”, Ned Pent, who Building B, Miami, Florida 33129. was visiting in New York. property he had purchased The Association does not assume Arva Moore Parks is a former from John Frow and made responsibility for statements of This, plus a chance meeting president of HASF. She is the with William Brickell, made the decision to “cast his lot” fact or opinions made by con­ author of The Forgotten Fron­ tributors. permanently with South tier, to be published this fall. Munroe anxious to visit this “legend haunted” unknown Florida. sailor’s paradise. Munroe was interested in The authors and editors Munroe fell in love with everything — especially the UPDATE BOARD: wish to thank the members Biscayne Bay but returned to new world he found in the of the Munroe family for New York after a brief visit. In tropics. Unlike many other Barbara E. Skigen their cooperation in mak­ 1879 he married Eva Hewitt, pioneers he was not in­ Editor ing this issue possible. We built an octagonal house for terested in what it might Dr. lone S. Wright are most grateful for their her on the waterfront at become, but in what it was at Chairperson generous assistance, Great Kills, and embarked on that moment. He wanted to Publications Committee guidance and suggestions. a successful oyster planting share his discoveries with Samuel F. Boldrick The treasured anecdotes, business. He planned to others. In 1883 he brought a Dorothy J. Fields memories and photo­ spend the rest of his life at camera with him and cap­ Randy F. Nimnicht graphs they share with us Great Kills with his wife and tured forever the beauty of Arva Moore Parks all serve to enlarge and new daughter who was bom the virgin wilderness he loved. Dr. Thelma Peters enhance our appreciation in 1881, until tragedy struck These “views” as Rebecca Smith and understanding of and changed his plans. Eva photographs were called in Robert C. Stafford Miami’s beginnings. Munroe contracted tuber­ that day, were more than a Jean C. Taylor V ______y culosis. priceless historical record, UPDATE/JUNE 1977 PAGE 3

they were artistically com­ island-builders as “slick a the ground, the four comer nomically profitable. Of all posed and demonstrated his gang of gentlemanly appear­ rooms were built around an his passions and interests, considerable skill as a ing scoundrels as ever walked octagonal center room, which making money was not one of photographer — at a time the earth.” was the dining room. The them. One of his few when amateur photography He also stopped a plan to center room was open to an successful ventures was itself was blazing new fron­ build a series of bridges con­ attic and the peak of which Camp Biscayne that he open­ tiers. In 1884 he captured and necting the islands that are was a glass clerestory which ed in 1903 as a haven for those killed a huge 14 and a half foot now a part of the Biscayne opened on the south and east who shared his ideas about crocodile at Arch Creek, sent National Monument. He coin­ to pick up the prevailing the wilderness. He operated it its skin to the American ed the term “safety-valve” in South Florida winds. The until the 1920’s when due to Museum of Natural History in referring to these openings in front and sides of the house his advancing age, he found it New York (where it still the bay. This name still were covered with a wide difficult to continue. He reluc­ hangs) and wrote up his fin­ appears on today’s charts. veranda. He was so pleased tantly sold the thirteen acre dings in a scientific publica­ tract in order to give his family tion, documenting the ex­ financial security. istence of crocodiles in North After that he retreated America. He became the more and more into the Bar­ friend of botanist Charles nacle which he was now more Sargent and together they than ever determined to discovered the first known preserve as it was. Driven by Royal Palm growing in the a desire to document the Era wild near Little River. It too of the Bay before the railroad, made the scientific journals. he began working on his Munroe tried to discover a book, The Commodore’s way to make a living that Story, co-authored by Vin­ would not hurt the environ­ cent Gilpin, which was ment. He experimented with published in 1933 when he “sponge culture” and tried to was seventy-nine years old. get the State Legislature to support his study. In 1891, he Ralph Munroe was a helped Charles Richard singular individual. He died RALPH MIDDLETON MUNROE Dodge from the U.S. Depart­ August 20, 1933 at age 82, ment of Agriculture in his He was fascinated by the with his design that in 1908 fifty-six years after he first saw study of sisal growing in tropic climate. He never miss­ when he needed to enlarge his the bay. While often con­ South Florida. As early as ed an opportunity to tell new­ house to accommodate his troversial and frequently mis­ 1890 he tried to get the U.S. comers that hurricanes must growing children, Patty and understood he was cited in his Government and the State of be taken seriously. In July, Wirth, who were bom after obituary as “among the most Florida to study the fish of 1926, he wrote of a small his marriage to Jessie Wirth in honored and highly esteemed Biscayne Bay and pushed for hurricane “made to order for 1895, he jacked the entire citizens of Dade County.” protective legislation to save me blowing just enough house up on stilts and built a He left his mark on the the then plentiful green turtle. energy to put fear of the Lord new first floor underneath. community he helped found. Munroe was one of the few into the scoffers and very Unfortunately, the Bar­ David Fairchild, the famous people that was sorry the possibly make them see the nacle is the only remaining naturalist, probably explained railroad came to South light.” This, however, turned building he designed. He this best when he wrote: Florida. His views on protec­ out to be wishful thinking planned two other notable ting the unique environment because in September, 1926, structures — the Union “Coconut Grove will never be put him in a position of often a great killer hurricane caught Chapel that stood next to the the same again without him. “standing alone” against so a city unprepared. Coconut Grove Library and His marvelous personality and historical background called progress. This disparity Ralph Munroe had many the Walter Davis house that made him a kind of cor­ became especially acute with talents. His reputation in the was located near the Cape nerstone in the community, the beginning of the Florida sailing workd is well known Florida lighthouse on Key and when cornerstones are Land Boom of the 1920’s. He but few realize that he also Biscayne. Both of these gone, society loses a great consistently fought for septic had unusual intuitive ability as buildings had architectural deal more than it usually ap­ tanks and against outfalls in an architect. The Barnacle, merit and were planned to preciates.” the bay. When man-made which he built in 1891, is the take advantage of the tropic islands began to appear in the best example of his work. The climate and to ameliorate its The Commodore was bay, he became head of an original structure was a extremes. buried in the historic Sleepy association that went to court square, hipped roof building M unroe was a true Hollow Cemetery in Con­ to stop the spread to Coconut with each point of the square Renaissance Man. But like so cord, Massachusetts. But in Grove. He minced no words pointing due north, south, many such men, few of his Coconut Grove he left the when he called the would-be east, and west. Built high off creative ventures were eco­ Barnacle as his final epitaph. PAGE 4 UPDATE/JUNE 1977

by Patty Munroe Catlow GROWING UP AT THE BARNACLE as told to Jean C. Taylor

Among my earliest sailboats as Daddy carved your arm hurt or anything like was located in a little cottage recollections are the chores I them out of wood but they that as he’d just say the job in back of what is now was responsible for when I wouldn’t float in the water. had to be finished. Brother Vangard School. It was just a was five or six years old. We Mother had a lot of big made a small cast net and he day school and started with had an octagonal dining room wooden chopping bowls and was very good at throwing it three or four students. She in­ in the center of the house with Daddy took one and made a to catch mullet for bait. tended to have all girls, but a skylight above and two win­ dredge for Brother. We could Anything we wanted to do or took boys too at first. I was dows that opened with long actually dig up the sand and have we had to make it the first girl and there were lanyards that came down into load and unload it. We had ourselves or find out about it two boys, Bernard Stewart the room. It was Brother’s more fun with that than with ourselves. and little Irving Thomas. The and my job to see that those anything else. Daddy made a When it came time for next year she had more as her windows were closed reputation spread and later whenever a rain came up or she moved to Miami. Brother the wind blew too hard. My was in Miami High and by that other chores were in the time we had a car — an old kitchen which had a nice big Overland — which we were table, a big wood range and a both driving at fourteen and sink with a pitcher pump that sixteen years. He would drive pumped water out of the the car to Miami High and cisterns under the house. I drop me off at Miss Harris’ remember standing on a stool and in the meantime he’d pick at one end of that table up Mary Poore and her washing dishes or at the other brother Charlie around the end mixing bread in an old Silver Bluff area. They were fashioned mixer. It was like a twins and later Brother big bucket with a handle on married Mary. Jessie Munroe and her children Patty (1) and Wirth, in 1907. (Photo 1 the top. Munroe Collection, 1977. Wirth graduated in 1921, My parents, Ralph lot of things for us and the schooling I wasn’t strong but Daddy didn’t approve of Middleton Munroe and Jessie boathouse was always off enough to go to public school, college and couldn’t afford it Wirth, met on their way south limits to us around Christmas so they subscribed to the in the first place. Daddy was from New England each on time. One year he made a Calvert School — a corres­ twenty-five years older than cruising boats. Mother came good sized floor model train pondence school from Balti­ my mother and he just liked to with her older sister and of cars for Brother and a doll more, Maryland which is still have us around. So Brother brother-in-law and just never bed for me for my biggest doll in existence. They sent a got done out of college, but he went back — she stayed and to which Mother added a full package deal of lessons, did very well as a self married Daddy in 1895.1 was set of linens and a mattress. books, tablets and pencils educated man. He first did bom at the Barnacle on and we’d do our lessons and boat surveys and then went to November 22, 1900 and nam­ Daddy was wonderful at send the papers back to be Columbia summer school to ed Patty and brother Wirth the lathe and in fact we were corrected. It couldn’t have study surveying and picked came along two years later. taught to use it too. At a very cost much because we never up drafting and design work Aside from the chores what I young age I was taught to had any money. Mother from Daddy. remember best were the caulk and putty seams — the taught us both for two years, Our first boat was an eigh­ games we played outside. We first boat I worked on was the but when Brother was old teen foot Swampset dory. It spent hours cruising and scow. Brother and I were ex­ enough he was sent to public belonged to Daddy but we boating on dry land. We had pected to keep up the bright school in Coconut Grove and used it when we were so small our boat models that Daddy work on the family boat. To I continued alone. I got pretty we had to crawl over the made for us and our imagina­ this day I can’t stand to hear a tired of it and begged to go to tion went wild as we cruised piece of sandpaper being seats. We got the idea of char­ public school, so in the sixth along the grass and used and I’m glad boats no ting the bay bottom in front of grade as the math at Calvert our house and that kept us channeled around the roots longer have mast-hoops that was weak, I was allowed to go. and trees and rocks. The have to be sanded and busy for a long time. When we I had gone just one semester were about eight and ten we boats really looked like scraped and varnished. Can­ vas had to be sewn too and all when Miss Harris arrived. had a twenty-six foot Sharpie Jean C. Taylor is a historian sorts of rope work. I’ve work­ She wanted to start a private Daddy had built for someone specializing in South Dade ed on canvas until my wrist school so Mother and Daddy and was taking care of for Count and a frequent con­ helped her. them. We were allowed to go tributor to Update. She is a long­ was lame, but you couldn’t time friend of Patfy Munroe put anything by Daddy. You At first it was called the anyplace in sight of the house Catlow. couldn’t say you were tired or Craig Open Air School and and Daddy was on the porch UPDATE/JUNE 1977 PAGE 5 of the boathouse with his spy Our dinghy was flat-bottomed ding presents racing as they Daddy didn’t believe in glass. If any rope gave way or and Daddy often had it hauled gave practical prizes instead allowances, but whatever we anything happened we were up on the platform which was of trophies during the depres­ could sell off the place was sure to hear about it if when a step down from the wharf. sion. It was almost em­ ours. So we sold coconuts we got home. We were only When the wind was off shore barrassing, but it was fun to and limes to the tourists who out in good weather. he’d put me in the boat and I lick those boys. Before that I would come down from the Sometimes we would sneak had to row well enough to was racing suicides and sail­ Royal Palm Hotel in their out of the house early in the keep off the beach. ing canoes, but I mostly crew­ buggies. One time I morning — at least we though The Biscayne Bay Yacht ed in those. What astonishes remember was horse fly time we were sneaking out, but it Club had bought about a me now is the clothes we had and the horse wouldn’t stand. turned out they knew all dozen fourteen foot to wear for sports. Mother They had driven back into our about it — and go aboard this Herreshoffs for racing. They made me khaki bloomers and yard and he took off through boat and finish our naps. She were lovely little boats for rac­ a skirt to cover them and a the hammock on that winding had bunks with spring mat­ ing and I’d go out and beat my blouse and to make it worse narrow road and a wheel tresses. Or we’d go fishing on caught on one of the big trees. the stringers under the Yacht We had hickory spokes for Club. The place was teeming years! Daddy was shipping with snappers, grunts and limes to New York. We would yellowtails and it didn’t seem go with my Aunt Dodie — she possible we couldn’t catch was Mother’s sister who them, but they were too came down to visit before I small. We had fun trying was born and never went anyway. back. She was my second When I was about six Dad­ mother and the more active dy built our family boat, the one because Mother wasn’t Melody. The hull was built in too strong. We would put on Miami and we towed her straw hats with mosquito net­ down with our other boat, the ting on them and long gloves Utilis, with my brother at four Patty and Wirth Munroe fish at the Barnacle boathouse in 1906. Photo and those long black years at the tiller of the hull all ® Munroe Collection, 1977. stockings and go out and pick by himself. She was finished up limes. The mosquitos wee at the boathouse. After that so bad it couldn’t be done any we all went out together and other way although we usual­ during school times on Friday ly sweltered. There was a afternoon that boat would be hedge of key limes all down ready at the dock when we’d the south side of the property. come home from school and I remember as a very small we’d go aboard with our child going out in the morning books and come in late Sun­ to pick up Daddy’s shoes and day afternoon with our school whatever else he had thrown work all done. Father and at the mockingbirds and Mother both went and whip-poor-wills. The came sometimes we’d go alone and and sat in those trees all night sometimes other boats came and sang and kept him awake. along. The Gilpins in the Students at Miss Julia Harris’ school pose on the Bay view Road lawn, We had to hurry to pick up Wabun were frequent com­ 1914. Seated 1. to r. Augustus St. Gaudens, Irving Thomas, Jr., Lispenard the coconuts in the morning panions. That’s when I learn­ Stewart. Standing 1. to r. Daley Highleyman, Wirth Munroe, Helen Cur­ because the tourists would ed to swim. I don’t remember tis, Patty Munroe, Natalie Wainwright, Tiffin Highleyman and Dorothy come along the Community Curtis. Photo from Daley Highleyman ® Munroe Collection, 1977. learning to sail but I do Trail from Peacock Inn and as remember learning to swim. brother and Bill Catlow. The we had to wear long black cot­ soon as they hit the giant We anchored in eight to ten club owned the boats but we ton stockings. If we had fallen bamboo patch in our yard feet of water which was were each assigned one to overboard we would surely they scratched their initials or beautifully clean and Daddy keep up and winning depend­ have drowned. In addition we name on it. Then if there were would go overboard and float. ed on how well the boat was had to wear shoes. Brother any coconuts they would pick He was a wonderful floater — kept up as well as how you could go barefoot, but not them up. Of course the trail I bet he could float and read a sailed. I kept my boat at the me. When we were small I didn’t go very far at that time newspaper — so he’d go over­ boathouse and worked on it remember wearing real but later it went on down board and float and we would and I was the one to beat even Dutch wooden shoes to keep about a mile. I don’t jump in and have to keep our though I was the only girl. The from cutting our feet on the remember about the limes heads up. Another thing I year before I was married in shells and barnacles, but they but we got twenty-five cents remember is learning to row. 1932 I garnered a lot of wed­ were not very comfortable. for the coconuts. The money PAGE 6 UPDATE/JUNE 1977

never played with any Indian children, it was only the adults that came. My first job after I got out of school was some 4H Club work teaching fifth graders to make buttonholes. I wasn’t very successful and I got so I hated it. I was at loose ends so Daddy asked me if I would like to have a tea house. He own­ ed the property on Main Highway where the Taurus is now and he and my brother built the cement block struc­ Jessie Munroe is joined by her children in front of the Barnacle. In 1908, the Commodore raised the bungalow ture. I had a friend, Alice and built a cement block first floor underneath. The family lived in Banyan Cottage at Camp Biscayne while the Ayars, daughter of Dr. Ayars, work was progressing. Photo ® Munroe Collection, 1977. who had moved down here we got was ours for spending. Baekeland, who was the together in the old sitting after World War 1. We open­ I remember Brother and I ran chemist who invented room when the Barnacle was ed the business together. away one day and went bakelite. His wife was a still a bungalow and I would be Alice had missionary friends across the road to the chemist too and also an artist. in my bedroom next to the sit­ in Chilna, Japan and in the In­ Peacock Store at Bayshore We were in on the dinner par­ ting room. I remember lying dian country out west. She and MacFarlane and came ties, but we were brought up there and listening to them all also had a friend in home with a tricycle. Pretty to believe that children should evening and crying — that’s Massachusetts who ran a gift soon we were taking it right be seen and not heard unless what music did to me. They shop. They all sent us things back. They wouldn’t let us we were spoken to. When I weren’t sad bieces, they were on consignment which we have it. There wasn’t was older I often waited on just beautiful. I was exposed sold and did very well, and anyplace to ride it at the Bar­ table. Daddy often enter­ to the piano. I took lessons had a lot of fun. This was in nacle anyhow. tained his friends by taking from Mrs. Sylvia Safford, one the days when people still We had our own ducks and them out in his boat. Mother of the big musical people in took afternoon tea, and we chickens and sometimes wild would serve afternoon tea at Miami. Later I took singing served only tea and cinnamon cats would get in at them. the drop of a hat. She had a from Adelaide Rittenhouse toast or nut bread Mother and Dodie would get big metal tray which I still and I loved that. I didn’t get as sandwiches which we baked a gun and shoot it. We didn’t have and beautiful tray cloths far as solos but I did duets, ourselves. We also made have a cow but our neighbor which we all embroidered and trios, and quartets and salted peanuts and nut bread did. It used to graze in our a brass hot water tea kettle belonged to the music club. for sale. After we had been in yard and sometimes got in the which is sitting in my living Wirth didn’t play anything business for a couple of years juniper weed and flavored the room now. She would serve and wasn’t interested. I Alice got an offer for a job in milk. We always had a garden tea on the porch to anyone couldn’t get too far with my Cleveland, Ohio firing all the for our fresh vegetables. It who came along. As all her music because Daddy pottery from the public was right in back of the house friends knew this we had lots couldn’t stand to hear me schools and doing some at first but later moved out in of visitors. practice. teaching and working on the the hammock. The only trou­ There were also lots of ac­ The Indians had come wheel. It was a marvellous ble there was that we had to tivities at the Yacht Club — through our property for chance and she couldn’t turn carry water as the windmill afternoon teas, dances to years before Daddy bought it down, so she moved up was right in back of the house. which I never went and a and their trail made a swale there and stayed the rest of A lot of the staples in the early billiard room downstairs down through the middle of it. her life. I tried to run the “Tea days came from Key West. where the men congregated. Daddy made friends with Chest” by myself but I wasn’t Whole wheels of cheeses and We children would sit on the them and took their pictures. strong enough emotionally as sacks and barrels of this and steps and learn to play by They would bring us venison, well as physically. So I sold that were unloaded at our watching. On the Fourth of vegetables and fruits and the business and it became wharf by the schooner. July we would have home Mother would bake things for “La Casita” and operated as a In the winter time Mother made icecream and we them. When we went away on restaurant until it became the and Daddy entertained the children turned the crank. cruises we never locked the Taurus. My whole tea house Camp Biscayne and cruising One thing I remember was house and she’d leave food is now their bar. boat guests with dinner par­ our musical evenings. Mother stuff on a certain shelf in the Next I taught sailing at Miss ties. Dodie did all the cooking played the piano, Daddy kitchen for them. They would Harris’ School a couple of — she was a wonderful cook. played the flute and a good come in the house and get the times a week for four years. I O ne boating guest I friend of his played the cello. things from their shelf and had a day sailer, “The Water remember was Dr. The three of them would get never touch anything else. I Lily” that Capt. Nat UPDATE/JUNE 1977 PAGE 7

Herreshoff gave me. He used One year my mother told me to go out with me and one of she would buy all the material us would teach the tiller while I would make up for myself. the other was teaching the I really went to work. One knots. He finally had to stop pussy willow silk was made to because he was just too old. wear to a wedding and had a On my twenty-first birthday circular skirt four yards he gave me the boat — a around that I hand hemmed. wonderful present but she If we wanted insertion or lace was lightly built and I lost her we made it ourselves. I in one of the gales. remember the underwear — My aunt, Miss Dodie Wirth, white cambric bloomers. was the librarian at the I met my husband seven­ Coconut Grove Library. I teen years before we were went to help her out and I married. He was a classmate don’t know whether she really The Commodore and his son Wirth built the Tea Chest on Main of my brother’s and he wanted to give it up or wheher Highway. Patty and her friend Alice Ayars operated the tearoom, which brought him home after she just wanted to give me later became La Casita and is now Taurus. Photo © Munroe Collection, school. We used to ride our something to do, but I 1977. bicycles down the slope of the greadually took over and time and when I got back we had to be baptised first by front lawn and fall off at the became librarian there for everything had started to Dr. Soper as there had been bottom. Then Bill went off to seven years. We had about mildew. We had to throw a lot no one around to do it when college and I didn’t see much ten thousand books and I put of things away and we we were children. I sang in the of him. He graduated from in the Dewey decimal system. repaired and revarnished choir and worked on the altar Carnegie Tech as a chemist A proof cataloguer came from what we could. The water guild at St. Stephens for twen­ and then came back here and Miami and helped me and came up through the floor ty years. They tell me that the we got reacquainted. He taught me a lot and I went to because of the pressure and first meetings of the church worked for Dr. Baekeland in the Carnegie Tech library we had to drill holes in the guild were held in the Bamboo his lab in Miami and then was school in the summer. floor to let the water out. We Room at Camp Biscayne. sent to Bloomfield to work in My specialty at the library had the same problem at the I never had a store-bought the Bakelite plant. He hadn’t was the Mariner’s Shelf and I Barnacle. dress until I was eighteen. My been gone long when we really had quite a collection. I was in on the laying of the clothes were either home decided to get married. He When the Public Library took comer stone of St. Stephens made or hand-me-downs came back down here in a se­ it over they dispersed it and it Church in 1910. Mother was from our rich friends. Then cond hand car and we were doesn’t exist now. The library an Episcopalian before she my grandmother, mother’s married in St. Stephens got soaking wet in the 1926 came here and Dodie joined mother, taught me how to Church by Dr. Soper. We hurricane. What a job we when she came. Brother and I sew a fine seam, hem napkins, returned north and lived had! I was up north at the joined the Church in 1916, but do lace work and crocheting. there until he retired in 1964.

NED BEASLEY AND COCONUT GROVE by Arva Moore Parks

In 1886 Ralph Munroe There was also the remains of ten foot deep well into which he uncovered the fact that bough t forty-one acres of land a crude fence with a row of rock steps had been carved. Porter was a Yale medical from John Frow for $400 and lime trees in front of it where Munroe was curious about doctor and assistant surgeon his Sharpie, “Kingfish.” It the south property line is to­ these improvements, es­ in the Union Army, Munroe included almost all the bay- day. A large mango tree and pecially when he discovered assumed that Porter had front from 100 feet south of avocado three, a banana that they had been there in made all the improvements, Peacock Park to what is now patch, two coconut trees and 1877 when John Frow and began calling him the Royal Road. Of this forty several exotic flowering trees purchased the land from “founding father” of Coconut acres, he chose approximate­ including a poinciana and Anna Beasley who was living Grove. Thus poor Ned ly five acres for his own home, oleander also thrived on the in Key West. What he didn’t Beasley became the forgotten The Barnacle, and eventually site. The most intriguing realize, however, was just man in Coconut Grove sold the other thirty-five thing, however, was an old how long Anna Beasley and history. acres. Munroe picked the five palmetto thatched frame her husband, Ned, had lived In recent research, with acre tract for his home house, known locally as the there, and the extent of the sources not available to because the land there had “ Three Sisters House” improvements thay had Munroe, many interesting already been improved. because it was built from made. To further complicate facts have been uncovered There was a cleared trail lumber salvaged from the brig matters, Munroe also dis­ about Ned Beasley and through the hammock from “Three Sisters” that wrecked covered that a Dr. Horace P. Horace Porter. With this new the bay to the pine woods. off Bear Cut. It sat next to a Porter had lived there. When Continued on Page 8 PAGE 8 UPDATE/JUNE 1977

Continued from Page 7 homestead for her. In 1872, The final ironly to the the two tall ones Beasley had material, it is possible to docu­ Harris leased it to Dr. Horace Beasley-Porter story is that in planted on what is now the ment the activities of these Philo Porter, who had come 1877 the widow Beasley sold Barnacle property. (These two men and set the record to the area from Connecti­ her entire homestead, which trees were struck by lightning straight. cut. Porter applied for an included eighty acres more in 1890 but not before eighty acre homestead next than Porter had tried to claim, Ned Beasley, who was bom Munroe immortalized them in to Beasley’s but then amend­ in New York, appears in the to John W. Frow for $100. If a photograph. They have ed his claim to include 80 1830 Census, the first ever Porter had offered to buy the become the most important acres of Beasley’s land as taken in South Florida. In property the whole history of logo in the Grove.) well, claiming it had been 1836, during the Second the Grove might have been From that point on, abandoned. different. Seminole War, Beasley was Munroe referred to the well one of the last to leave the on his property as Dr. mainland after the Cooley Porter’s well and credited Dr. massacre in what is now Ft. Porter with the improvement Lauderdale. In fact, Beasley he found there. In 1925, when helped Cooley bury his family he was researching The before he joined the others Commodore’s Story he down the Keys. advertised for information In 1849, the U.S. Coast about Dr. Porter and mira­ Survey team was in the area culously received a biograph­ to make the first chart of the ical sketch and a picture from his daughter who was living in Florida Reef and coastline. Ft. Lauderdale. With this type One of their preliminary of information it is easy to sketches shows the site of a see why Munroe called Porter house in what is now Coconut the “founding father.” Grove, called “Beasley’s.” In the 1852 published survey, Munroe wrote that he the point of the bight in the always knew the “founder” of Grove is given the name the Grove would be a man of “Beasley’s Point” and was Commodore Munroe stands in the ten foot rock well he inadvertently substance — or so it seemed credited to Dr. Homer Porter. The original improvements were actually used as a point of triangula­ considering Porter’s back­ made by Ned Beasley, “the forgotten man in Coconut Grove hsitory.” ground and education. tion in measuring the coast. Photo © Munroe Collection, 1977. Like so many other early Porter’s daughter didn’t tell When Mrs. Beasley heard During Porter’s brief stay, Munroe that after Porter left settlers, Beasley did not about Porter’s claim, her however, he gained a the Grove he spent the rest of bother to officially claim the grandson, Otis Cash, wrote a measure of immortality his life moving from place to land on which he lived until letter to the land office claim­ because he opened a post of­ place. He spent considerable 1868 when he formally applied ing fraud. Cash wrote about fice there named “Cocoanut time and energy trying to ob­ for the first homestead South the lease and added that Grove” on January 6, 1873. tain a disability pension from of the Miami River. It included Porter “has enjoyed all the He was able to get it opened the government for “chronic 160 acres of land between profits of the bananas and because the Miami post office diarrhea nad hemorrhoids,” a 27th Avenue, Grand Avenue, pineapples and now is had been moved to what is condition he claimed was ser­ St. Gaudens Road, Mc­ endeavoring to defraud her now Miami Shores and re­ vice related. One letter found Donald Street and Biscayne (Mrs. Beasley). . . he has not christened “Biscayne.” Be­ in Dr. Porter’s pension file Bay. put one dollar’s worth of im­ cause there was sufficient dis­ seems to sum up his later That same year Beasley provements on the place . . . tance between Biscayne and years: also became Clerk of the and has been making false Coconut Grove to warrant Dade County Circuit Court. statements to the depart­ two post offices, those south “There is a marked inability In those days the ment, trying to enter land as of the river opened a post of­ to make those physical, men­ “courthouse” was usually in an abandoned place when he fice in the Grove. In 1884 tal and social adjustments the clerk’s home, so it is possi­ was put on it by Mrs. Besley’s when Ralph Munroe dis­ that a professional man must ble that his home in the Grove (sic) agent, and has done covered the existence of this make to succeed and which was considered as such. nothing but enjoy the crops post office, he got it re­ necessarily requires a fre­ Beasley died in 1870 and his already planted by another opened because it was easier quent change of location to wife Anna, who came from party.” In the end, Mrs. Beas­ to get a previously existing enable him to make a living the Bahamas, moved to Key ley won and in 1875 patented post office re-opened than to practice.” West to be with her family the land. Porter decided the apply for a new one. Thus the Porter died at age 73 on there. Before she left, she ask­ unimproved land he also area became known as December 12, 1912. He had ed Dr. J. V. Harris, then the claimed was not worth the ef­ “Cocoanut Grove” even been successful in only one owner of the Ft. Dallas fort, so he left, never to though there were only two thing — convincing the property to lease her return. coconut trees in the area — Continued on Page 11 UPDATE/JUNE 1977 PAGE 9

THE B. B. Y. C. AND THE BARNACLE by wiiiiam m . Straight, M. □.

“This Spring of 1887 it was fourteen men met at the Bay. In 1901 the B.B.Y.C. as headquarters,” the Com­ apparent that the Bay could Scrububs to complete the for­ constructed its first club­ modore tells us. In 1925 the provide all the boats mal organization. house on pilings along the property on which the Fac­ necessary for a yacht race, During its early years the north side of this pier. This 40 tory stood was sold and the and it was decided to B.B.Y.C. held many of its x 25 foot, two-story, frame club members at that time be­ celebrate Washington’s Birth­ meetings and social events on building had a kitchen and ing more oriented toward day with an open regatta.” the second floor of the Com­ game room on the first floor Miami, abandoned the Grove Thus, Commodore Ralph modore’s boathouse at the and an office, storeroom, clubhouse. The building was Munroe relates the beginning Bamacle. According to Mary spacious lounge and a wide sold for one dollar to Bob of the Biscayne Bay Yacht Munroe it was here on verandah overlooking the Erwin, a local contractor, who Club (B.B.Y.C.), second February 20, 1889, that, “the Bay on the second floor. Mrs. moved it by barge to a site on oldest yacht club in the south Hardee Avenue where it and Dade County’s oldest stands today as a private social institution. residence. The earliest mention of the In that year the downtown name appears in the diary of clubhouse was taken down to Mary Barr Munroe, the first permit the filling that created wife of the writer of boys’ Bayfront Park. For a time the stories, Kirk Munroe. On B.B.Y.C. met at various February 14, 1887, she notes: places in the downtown area “In the evening the Biscayne and finally in 1932, through Bay Yacht Club regatta meet the efforts of Commodore (sic) at the Scrububs . . . Mr. Hugh Matheson, Sr., the club Hine Mr. G. O. H. Mr. Ralph returned to the Grove and (Ralph Middleton Munroe) built its present clubhouse at and Kirk (Munroe).” That 2540 South Bayshore Drive. night at the Scrububs, the home of Kirk Munroe on Continued from Page 11 property today just north of fortable cruising boats off soun­ the Ransom School the first dings and coastwise. Their sailing regatta on the Bay was O n February 20, 1889, the flag of the Biscayne Bay Yacht Club was shallow draft allowed the hulls to planned. The regatta held flown for the first time at the Commodore’s boathouse at the Barnacle. lift and be buoyed up by the Photo ® Munroe Collection, 1977. waves and currents. Add to this eight days later was a great the simplicity of arrangements success with fifteen entries big flag of the Club (was) Patty Catlow, the Com­ and equipment, rigging and sails. followed by dinner at the flown for the first time — modore’s daughter, recalls One had a beautifully saluted by gun and cheer.” she learned to play billiards maneuverable boat even when Peacock Inn with fifty guests. single handed. sitting on the clubhouse stairs One afternoon later that As an auxiliary clubhouse It is interesting and timely that spring at the Peacock Inn, the B.B.Y.C. leased the Cape watching the club members in this charming and informative lit­ Kirk Munroe suggested the Florida Lighthouse at a dollar the game room. This building tle book has returned when it was the scene of meetings seems that a much greater in­ organization of a yacht club to a year from July, 1888, until terest in shoal draft has appeared Ralph Munroe and they July, 1892. Chowder parties and social gatherings from in the sailboat world. launched it forthwith. Kirk and meetings were held there 1901 until April, 1926. I knew Vincent Gilpin from nominated Ralph as Com­ and it was through the con­ As the City of Miami grew, childhood, and delightful memories come back to me. It modore and Ralph nominated cern and efforts of the club “Mr. (Henry M.) Flagler was could be said that he was almost Kirk as Secretary and the members that erosion was anxious to give the club a fine a second father to my brother club was under way. Ap­ curbed and the lighthouse house in the new city in return and me. Memories of our family boats cruising together; the com­ parently the matter rested preserved. for the dignity of its name, panionship, experiences, fair there until the following In the winter of 1890-91 the age, and associations . . . the weather and foul. The glorious winter when this two-man Commodore and associates club built a second house at moonlight sails on W abun with happy company. The all-day trip “steering committee” sent organized The Biscayne Miami (a one store building on down the Bay, fishing or craw­ out invitations and on the Manufacturing Company to pilings in the Bay at the foot of fishing, or just swimming and night of February 18, 1888, engage in the canning of the present Northeast First beach combing. Vincent was always very generous with in­ pineapples grown on the Street and along Bayshore William M. Straight is a physi­ viting folks for a sail. He was hap­ Keys. On the shore a distance Drive, later renamed py and jolly and his hearty, infec­ cian in private practice in Miami tious laugh still rings in my ears. when he is not researching and south of the boathouse they Biscayne Boulevard), with This review by Patty Munroe writing history. He is a member built the Factory building and Mr. Flagler’s help, but retain­ Catlow first appeared in the of the Biscayne Bay Yacht Club. a pier extending out into the ed the old house at the Grove December, 1975, issue of Update. PAGE 10 UPDATE/JUNE 1977

THE GOOD SHIP MICCO by Arva Moore Parks

The only “new” thing at the making the run before a fierce Club fleet cruise and was con­ ficionado who promised to Barnacle that wasn’t put norther from Cape Canaveral descendingly offered a fifteen take care of her. there by Ralph Munroe or his to Jupiter, one hundred and minute head start because of After Micco, Munroe’s family, is Micco, a fifty foot five nautical miles, against a her heavy type and small rig. reputation as a designer of sailboat that Munroe design­ one to one-half boat current When a thundersquall shoal-draft boats continued ed and had built in 1891, the in the Gulf Stream, in ten stripped the fleet of kites and to grow. He was described as same year that he built the hours. threw it into confusion, Mic­ “in a quiet way one of the im­ Bamacle. In 1973, when the portant designers of this State of Florida purchased country and the Nestor of the Bamacle, Barrie Dale, a Florida yachting.” young marine biologist living In 1918, Nathaniel at Woods Hole, Massachu­ Herreshoff, dean of American setts, surprised everyone yachting design, came to see when he wrote saying that Munroe at the Barnacle. Star­ he was living aboard Micco ting in 1922, and for the next and wanted to sell her to the eight winters, “Captain Nat” State. Randy Nimnicht, was at the Bamacle in a cot­ who was then working for the tage Munroe built for him State, was eager to have the there. Munroe and State purchase Micco, but Herreshoff had a strong because Dale was leaving the friendship, built on mutual country he had to sell Micco respect for the other’s ability. immediately, which Herreshoff’s son Francis presented a problem for the wrote in his biography of State. To simplify matters, Captain Nat that “it is doubt­ the Historical Association ful if anyone but Commodore purchased Micco in trust in Munroe ever influenced him,” order to protect her for (his father). Floridians and then a short In 1928, it was reported in time later, the State purchas­ the New York Herald ed her from the Association. Tribune that the newly form­ Micco was not the first boat ed Cruising Club of America that Munroe ever designed. made “two of the most He had been interested in famous figures in American boats all his life. At age 23, yacht designing . . . honorary with no formal training he members. One was Nathaniel began to design sailboats for G. Herreshoff of Briston, himself and his friends. His designer of the most famous Florida experience made him THE M IC C O racing yachts built in this aware of the need for a new country in the last generation type of shoal-draft boat that The following year on her co, carrying full sail, finished or two, the other, Com­ would be able to cruise along return trip north, she made second in a fleet of all sizes modore Ralph M. Munroe of shallow shores and be equally the run from Cape Florida to and had her handicap revok­ Florida, leading exponent of secure in a heavy sea. Thus in Sandy Hook in six and a half ed! That same year she came the shoal-draft yacht for 1885, the designed “Presto”, days, a record for sailing in second in her class in the offshore work.” the first of his famous and in­ boats in her class which stood Bermuda Race. The amazing thing about novative shoal-draft center for many years. The story of Late in 1924 she was sold to Ralph Munroe’s position in boarders that were immor­ this accomplishment made L. N. Robbins who lived the sailing world is that he was talized by Vincent Gilpin in the pages of Rudder in aboard her in New Rochelle, really an amateur designer The Good Little Ship. February, 18%. N.Y. for the next thirty-eight who only sold fourteen Micco was Munroe’s sixth Munroe sold Micco in 1892 years. Robbins let her go only “Presto-type” boats outside Presto-type boat. He sailed because with the Bamacle after she had her stern ripped of the State of Florida, and he her down from Brown’s completed he no longer need­ off being towed off an un­ designed no new Presto-types Shipyard at Tottenville to ed a boat her size. That was marked breakwater, and be­ after 1906. Despite this Coconut Grove in the fall of not the last heard of Micco. In ing eighty years old himself, limited career, he was able to 1891. She distinguished 1924, at age thirty-three, she reluctantly gave her to command and sustain a herself in her first voyage by joined the Atlantic Yacht another shoal-drift af- Continued on Page 12 UPDATE/JUNE 1977 PAGE 11

Continued from Page 8 BOOK REVIEWS

THE COMMODORE’S STORY, THE FORGOTTEN FRONTIER: southernmost American frontier. by Ralph Middleton Munroe and Florida Through the Lens of With her insight we see the Vincent Gilpin. Original edition, Ralph Middleton Munroe with special blendings of the people of 1930. Reprinted from the original, text by Arva Moore Parks. the sea and the sophisticated city 1966. Historical Association of Published by Banyan Books, Inc. folk and we see the “simple and Southern Florida. 384 pp., illus., 208 pp., illus., oversize format, genuine life” as Munroe saw hardcover, $10.00; paperbound, hardcover, $25.00. Special edi­ them. Most of all, the astonishing $5.00. tion of 100 numbered copies, leatherbound, $100.00 each. clarity of these pictures lets us The brochure announcing Publication date: November 8, truly into the primordial beauty of the past frozen forever in a publication of The Commodore’s 1977. photograph. Story, in 1930, introduced the book with the following words: Coconut Grove before it was “The changes which brought settled, Seminole Indians on their the city of today are delightfully way to sell pelts, rapids in the described in this book of per­ Miami River, Key West as the sonal reminiscences, written by wrecking capital of the world — The Good Little Ship, by Vincent one of Florida’s earliest settlers in these and many other scenes of Gilpin. Sutter House, Lititz, collaboration with a life-long the primitive Florida of the late Pennsylvania, Third Edition, 1975. 64 pages, $4.95. friend. Mr. Munroe first went to nineteenth century are captured DR. H ORA CE P. PORTER in this book of photographs by Biscayne Bay in 1887. Soon after The Good Little Ship is back government that he should be Ralph M. Munroe. These amaz­ on our shelves. The attractive that time he and his friends built granted that disability pen­ his home, The Barnacle, in ing pictures of early Florida tell a format of this third edition will en­ story of the tropical frontier, one tice boatmen to look between the sion. His widow, Margaret, Coconut Grove, where he has blue covers. Here are described lived ever since. From this center that has been largely ignored but continued to receive is in many ways more unique the design, abilities, and joyful his influence has been felt for rewards of one of my father’s payments for his “service- than its larger, Western counter­ almost fifty years — during the favorite ketches, the Wabun. related death.” vivid and exciting period of early part. Here the sailboat served as Later she was sold to Mr. Gilpin exploration and settlement — the covered wagon and the who owned her for nineteen Munroe may have inad­ during the slow development barefoot mailman as the pony ex­ years, and she him! He used her vertently given the wrong which led up to Flagler and the press, but the challenges and the in northern and southern waters man credit for the founding, successes were no less real. with complete satisfaction and railroad — through the boom, but he carefully preserved the Munroe, an Easterner and an pleasure. He spent a great many the disastrous hurricanes against ears sailing either in his own which the Commodore’s war­ early dry plate photographer, fell things the founder left behind. oat or with friends, cruising Today, the trail is still in the nings went unheeded, down to in love with the untamed thousands of miles from Maine to the present time. wilderness he found and the West Indies, but he loved the same location. It passes near “No one interested in southern chronicled its development. His Florida waters. the old well, which Munoroe Florida or in the sea can afford to original glass plate negatives Vincent had a deep, sensitive, reinforced with concrete were carefully preserved and miss this picturesque story of a keen feeling for boats and the years ago. Munroe and his Biscayne Bay pioneer who is to­ packed away until they were sea, and he loved these as few day so widely and affectionately found undisturbed in 1973, over people honestly can. His opening heirs tried to maintain the known. One of Florida’s earliest half a century later. Here in this paragraphs explain some of this “Three Sisters House,” but lovers, the Commodore has been book more than 200 of these pic­ love better than I can. finally in the late 1950’s it suc­ unswervingly devoted to the best tures appear for the first time, “ W hen you gather the cumbed to old age, and ter­ interests of the region and has giving us a last link to the frontier necessities of life on a small boat and cast loose with a roving com­ mites. Beasley’s avocado been close to the most significant he so loved. mission, you enter into a new and incidents of its growth.” Ralph Munroe left his mark on tree, which is probably the wonderful freedom, unkonwn on oldest in Miami, lives on, old In addition, The New York South Florida. He was one of the shore. You slip away from the Times offered the following founders of Coconut Grove; he everyday world into the space and gnarled, but still bearing review of The Commodore’s organized the Biscayne Bay and silence of wide waters; you fruit. Story at the time of publication: Yacht Club; he was nationally move without gasoline; you sleep known as a designer of shoal- without hotels; you choose your “All down the southeast coast of draft sailboats; his conservation distance from other men. Florida the Commodore has been efforts have affected every “All ports are open to you, and for fifty years well known as one of citizen of Dade County and were you don’t have to explain the important citizens of years ahead of their time. The yourself to anyone. You may Southern Florida. This story of travel all night and sleep all day; his life, written with much and City of Miami built the Ralph M. Munroe Marine Stadium, and the eat one meal or five; dress as you varied detail, is just such a local please, or not at all. You may State of Florida has purchased chronicle of the development of a read or talk or lie on your back community as every city or region his home, “The Barnacle”, as an and dream of the clouds and the ought to be glad to have. The city historic site and museum. stars, with none to comment.” of Miami and all the Biscayne Bay country ought to welcome it with His position as the area’s first My father, Ralph M. Munroe, gratitude for the light it throws on photographer, however, is little developed a relatively small shoal their beginnings . . . It is the kind known. Arva Moore Parks, an draft sailboat in the 1880s, and of volume that is always treasured later it became known as the historian with a special interest in “Presto-type”. Several of these, in historical collections because South Florida, has worked for of its value as a source book.” with variations, were built and years to document these “views” proved to be able, safe, and com- and to help us understand the people and the events from this Continued on Page 9 HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION OF SOUTHERN FLORIDA NONPROFIT ORQ. INCORPORATED U. S. POSTAGE 3280 SOUTH MIAMI AVENUE - BUILDING B PAID MIAMI, FLORIDA 33129 MIAMI. FLORIDA PERMIT No. 608

FEB fifrergl&des "Natural History Assn. •p ’ R ox 2 7 Q Homestead, Florida 33030

#nrc NATIONAL PAR® EVERB E & e UBRARV.

Wirth Middleton Munroe WIRTH MUNROE AND THE COMANCHE served as president of the Historical Association of Wirth M. Munroe was bom auxiliary centerboard cutter. its affairs. By official action, Southern Florida. at the Munroe home, the Bar­ Of classical design, her racing the race just won by a boat of nacle, in Coconut Grove in number was 355. his design was named for him. Continued from Page 10 1902. He grew up in Coconut Co ma nc/ie,commissioned As drastic changes were Grove and accompanied his in 1957, won the first place in made in the rules for deter­ reputation that still lives to­ father, Ralph Middleton the first race in which she mining handicaps for racing day. Munroe, on family cruises competed and in every race yachts, and yachts were In 1972, Roger C. Taylor during his youth. came in either first, second, manufactured out of wrote in the National Fisher­ Over the years, Wirth or third. Competitors used to aluminum and other metals, man that “it would be designed many fine yachts, say that her bow was prettier Comanche, with her classical wonderful to see the Presto but the best known racing than her stem and that they design and varnished centerboarder rejuvenated. yacht for which he drew the tired of always looking at her mahogany, in comparison She’d make an admirable plans was the Comanche, stem. The last ocean race in with newly built yachts, came cruising boat for any designed for Jack Price and which Comanche competed to look like a grand old lady. coastline.” With the Micco on built at the Miami shipyard on was conducted by the Cruis­ Jack reluctantly decided to let display at the Barnacle there the Miami River by Warren ing Club of America from her go into a less strenuous will be a renewed interest in Bailey in 1957. She was one of Miami to Palm Beach. There life of service and a new Commodore Munroe and his the first wood planked yachts were approximately 40 boats ownership. “Good Little Ships.” As Ralph completely fiberglassed when entered in the race and Comanche is still seen sail­ Munroe said years ago, these built. The boat was first Comanche won first place. ing the beautiful waters of sound ideas of shoal-draft designed as a yawl and later, Wirth Munroe had died. He South Florida and the Carib- centerboard sailing were to obtain a better rating for had been a member of the bean, frequently with “merely forgotten in the race racing, converted to a sloop Cruising Club of America for descendents of Wirth for speed and other odd fan­ and technically known as an many years and was active in Munroe aboard. cies of the age.”