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Behind the Scenes

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much more. Gratitude goes also to Morwynne OUR READERS Carlow, Riika Åkerlind and numerous helpful Many thanks to the travellers who used folk met along the way. Big thanks also go to the last edition and wrote to us with help- co-author Neil Wilson, editor James Smart and ful hints, useful advice and interesting the LP team. anecdotes: Beck Robey, Charlotte Walber, Dirk Gudde, Erin Fredericks, Fran Boersma, John Charles, Judy ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Pengelly, Kim MacDonald, Kristine Quint, Lucy Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Graham, Mario Pennacchio, Sebastian Braden, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Stephanie Lacasse, Vanessa Mattingly World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System WRITER’S THANKS Sciences, 11, pp1633–44. Andy Symington Illustrations p56-7, p100-101 and p180-1 by I owe thanks to many, but firstly to Jenny Neil Javier Zarracina. and Brendan Bolland for being great friends and superb hosts, to Juliette and David Pa- Cover photograph: Steam train crossing ton for their perpetual generosity and warm the Glenfinnan Railway Viaduct, Nick Fox/ welcome and to my father for the whisky and Shutterstock ©

Product Editors Kate Chap- Fionnuala Twomey, Simon THIS BOOK man, Ross Taylor, Amanda Williamson This 9th edition of Lonely Plan- Williamson Assisting Cartographer Gabe et’s guidebook was Senior Cartographer Mark Lindquist researched and written by Neil Griffiths Cover Researcher Naomi Wilson and Andy Symington, Book Designer Cam Ashley Parker who also wrote the previous Assisting Editors Peter Thanks to Cheree Broughton, two editions. This guidebook Cruttenden, Bruce Evans, Daniel Corbett, Sasha Drew, was produced by the following: Gabrielle Innes, Bella Li, Anne Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Destination Editor James Mason, Kate Mathews, Lauren Martine Power, Lauren Smart O’Connell, Gabrielle Stefanos, Wellicome ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 471

Index

7stanes 139, 166, 171 Aonach Eagach 331 Fergusson Gallery 200 B Appin 292 Fyne Gallery 259 Ba’, the 404 Applecross 372 Gallery An Talla Dearg Badachro 370 A aquariums 187, 191, 238 380 Abbotsford 144 Badbea 357 Arbroath 218-20 Gallery of Modern Art 224-32, 226-7 bagpipes 446-7 archaeological sites, see 107, 121 accommodation 227-8 Ballater 318-19 also ruins, standing Hawick Museum & Art Balloch 243 activities 224-6 stones Gallery 147 245 drinking & nightlife 229 Banks Chambered Hunterian Art Gallery 112 205, 319 entertainment 229-30 Tomb 407 Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Balnakeil 363 festivals & events 226 Barnhouse Neolithic Museum 112 Balquhidder 252 food 228-9 Village 408 Galleries 188 Banff 238 sights 224-6 390 McLean Museum & Art tourist information 230 Dwarfie Stane 411 Gallery 135 397 travel to/from 230 Grey Cairns of 410 Barraigh 397 travel within 232 Camster 357 Royal Scottish Barrie, JM 220 221-35 422 Academy 63 beaches 23 Aberdour 188 Knap of Howar 415 Scottish National Banff Links 238 Aberfeldy 328-9 407-8 Gallery 63 Bosta 390 Aberfoyle 248-9 Midhowe Cairn & Scottish National Gallery Calgary Beach 285 Aberlemno Stones 220 Broch 413 of Modern Art 67 Camusdarach Beach 236, 342 Aberlour 236-8 Mine Howe 406 Scottish National Portrait Gallery 65-6 Coldingham Bay 153 accommodation 22, Mousa Broch 421 420, 454-6, see 409 Gallery 424 290 also individual locations 423 Watermill, the 328-9 Coral Beaches 384 Acharacle 342 Quoyness chambered Wild Space 324 Durness 363 A’Chill 347 tomb 413 Arthur’s Seat 58, 21 392 Achiltibuie 367 408 arts 444-8 Nairn 301 activities 24, 27-8, 456-7, Rousay 413 arts festivals Red Point 370 see also individual 17, 408-9, 17 Art & Crafts Trail 169 Reef Beach 391 activities Tomb of the Eagles 407 Burns an’ a’ That 28 Sandwood Bay 366 Adam, Robert 64, 66, 117, Torrylinn Cairn 274 Festival Sannox 273 151, 161, 448 architecture 113, 448 Fringe 28 Scousburgh Sands 422 Adam, William 59, 149, 232, Ardbeg 265 Edinburgh International Silver Sands of Morar 342 238, 448 Ardgay 354 Festival 28 Traigh Mor 397 162 Ardlui 243 Nairn Book & Arts 303 air travel 19, 463, 464 Ardmore Islands 264 Festival 303 beavers 260 Airor 344 Ardnamurchan 340-1 Perth Festival of the beer 233, 441, see also Alloway 159-61 area codes 19 Arts 202 breweries Alyth 207 Arisaig 342-3 St Magnus Festival 403 Beinn Alligin 371 amusement parks 225 Armadale 379-80 West End Festival 28 371 An Coroghon 347 390 Winter Words 324 Beinn Mhor 396 Askival 346 An T-Ath Leathann 378-9 Arran 270-5, 271 Beltane 415 animals 451, 452 Arrochar 247-8 365-6 Ben Challum 252 Annandale 166-7 art galleries, see Atholl Highlanders 326 252, 330 Anstruther 197-9 also museums ATMs 460 Ben Lomond 241, 245 224 Auchmithie 218 Ben Lui 246 Aviemore 309-12 Map Pages 000 113 246, 283 Ayr 157-9, Photo Pages 000 Contemporary 158 Ben Nevis 13, 339, 317, Arts 213 155-62 13, 316 472 395 Mull 281, 282 Burray 406 Crathes Castle 232 394 Mull of 262 bus travel 19, 97, 162, Culcreuch Castle 136-7 Bettyhill 361-2 277 464, 465 Culross Palace 187 Bharpa Langass 394 Plockton 373 business hours 19, 460 Culzean Castle 161 bicycle travel, see cycling Portree 382 Bute 255-7 Castle 186, 205, Biggar 154-5 280 Byron, Lord 319 204

INDEX INDEX Bigton 422 Shetland 417, 421-2 282 birds 451, 452, 17 Torridon 371 Dunnottar Castle 232-3 C Dunollie Castle 275 birdwatching 16, 451, , the 249 Caerlaverock Castle 165, 452, 456 Dunrobin Castle 356 B- Uist 396 205, 2, 205  Aberdeen 225 Dunstaffnage Castle C Ullapool 367 Cairngorm Mountain  Ailsa Craig 162 Wick 358 312-13 205, 291, 204-5 Galloway Forest Park 170 Boddam 422 36, Dunvegan Castle 384 Handa Island 365 Bonar Bridge 354 309-22, 310 47, 50, 80 420 Bonawe Iron Furnace 291 357-61 Edzell Castle 221 Loch Gruinart Nature Bonnie Prince Charlie 301, Caledonian Canal 308, Reserve 266 435, 436 336, 317 Eilean Donan Castle 375 Loch Ken 168 books 102, 433, 434, 436, Caledonian Railway 221 190 Mull 281 437, 438, 445, 448, 451, Calgary Beach 285 Floors Castle 149 North Berwick 99 see also literature 250-2 Fyvie Castle 232 394 Borders Abbeys Way 150 390 Glamis Castle 218, 204 414 Borders Railway 22 Calton Hill 66-7, 81 Glengorm Castle 285 RSPB Loch Garten Bosta 390 Camera Obscura 51 Hermitage Castle 149, 205, Osprey Centre 314 Bostadh 390 261-2 204 Castle 296 Shetland 16, 420, 423, Bowmore 264, 265, 266 Campsies 136-7 424, 425, 426 Kilchurn Castle 291, Brae 423 canals 185 316 St Kilda 395 Kinloch Castle 346 319-21 Canna 347-8 Birks of Aberfeldy 328 397 Braemar Gathering 28 Caol Acain 378 Birnam 322-4 Lews Castle 22, 388 Brechin 221 Caol Ila 265 Birsay 409 102 Bressay 420-1 Cape Wrath 364 305 Lochleven Castle 203 breweries 441-2 car travel, see also driving Black Wood of Benleva Hotel 307 tours Lochranza Castle 273 Rannoch 327 Brewdog 22, 88, 127, 129, driving licences 465 MacLellan’s Castle 169 blackenings 405 184, 229 hire 465-6 Muness Castle 425-6 Blackwaterfoot 274 De Brus 188 road rules 466 Noltland Castle 414 Blair Atholl 326-7 Fyne Ales 258 to/from Scotland 464 Castle 256 Blair Castle 326 272 within Scotland 18, 19, Scalloway Castle 421 Blairgowrie 207-8 Moulin Hotel 325 465-6 Scone Palace 200 Blantyre 136 Sligachan Hotel 381 Carloway 390 Skipness Castle 260 Boat Cave 287 St Andrews Brewing Carrbridge 314 Smailholm Tower Boat of Garten 314 Co 195 283, 287 205, 204 boat travel 19, 464, 465 Traquair House 143 castles & palaces 16, 23, St Andrews Castle 190-1 boat trips West 127 205, 16, 204, see Castle 177-8, Arisaig 343 Orkney Brewery 409 also ruins 180-1 99 367 Bridge of Balgie 331 Aberdour Castle 188 Tarbert Castle 259 Durness 363 Bridge over the Atlantic 280 Balmoral Castle 205, Threave Castle 167 Elgol 380-1 Broadford 378-9 319 Urquhart Castle 116 Brodick 271-3 Blair Castle 326 307, 317 263 Brough of Birsay 409 Braemar Castle 320 197 Breachacha Castle 290 cathedrals, see churches & Broughty Ferry 217 cathedrals John O’Groats 359 Brodick Castle 271 Brown, George Mackay Cawdor Castle 303 Kyle of Lochalsh 374 410, 445 Caerlaverock Castle 205, cell phones 18, 460-1 Lewis 391 Bruce, Robert the 142, 171, 2, 205 Celtic Connections 27, 116 241-2 182, 187, 291, 432, 433 Castle Campbell 186 cemeteries 59 Loch Ness 307, 308 Bruichladdich 265 Castle Douglas 167 Central Highlands 42, 342 Buachaille Etive Mor 331 Castle Fraser 234 293-348, 294-5 Loch Tay 330 budgeting 19 Castle Menzies 328 accommodation 293 287 359 climate 293 Bunnahabhain 265 292 food 293 Map Pages 000 Burns, Robert 27, 158, 159, Cawdor Castle 303 highlights 294-5 Photo Pages 000 160, 162, 163, 328, 444 Craigievar Castle 235 travel seasons 293 473 central Scotland 41, Coldbackie 362-3 D Glasgow 116 176-208, 177 Coldingham 152-3 dangers, see safety Loch Ness 302, 302 accommodation 176 Coll 290-1, 281 Davaar Cave 261-2 North Coast 500 22, 360 climate 176 269-70, 263 Dean Village 67 Northeast Scotland food 176 Compass Hill 347 debit cards 460 231, 231 highlights 177 Comrie 206 Deep Sea World 187 Northern Highlands &

Islands 369, INDEX travel seasons 176 Conic Hill 245 departure tax 463 369 Southern Highlands & 305 Connel 291 dinosaurs 380 Islands 253, 253 Charlotte Sq 64 Coral Beaches 384 disabilities, travellers cheese 261 Southern Scotland - 322 with 461  C 145, children, travel with 68, 145 Corryvreckan discount cards 458, 467  E Drumnadrochit 307-8 125, 441, 457 Whirlpool 268 distilleries 237, 265 Dryburgh Abbey 144 churches & cathedrals Cowal 254 Aberfeldy Distillery 328 Drymen 245 Brechin Cathedral 221 crafts 169, 280, 384, Ardnamurchan 340 238 Canongate Kirkyard 55 385, 425 Bladnoch Distillery 172 Dufftown 236-8 Church of the Holy Craigendarroch 319 Blair Athol Distillery 324 Rude 182 Duirinish 384-5 Craigievar 205 Edradour Distillery 324 Dryburgh Abbey 144 Dumfries 162-5, 163 282-3 Famous Grouse Dumfries House 161 Cathedral 185 Crail 196-7 Experience 206 Dun I 288 Dunfermline Abbey Cramond 69-70 Glengoyne Distillery 136 Church 187 Dunadd 259 329-30 Glenmorangie 353 Cathedral 322 Dunbeath 357 Creag Choinnich 320 Park 402 Elgin Cathedral 235 Dunblane 184-5 credit cards 460 Isle of Arran 273 Cathedral 305 Dundee 211-17, Crianlarich 246-7 Isle of Harris 391-2 214-15 Glasgow Cathedral Dunfermline 187-8 Crieff 206-7 Jura Distillery 267 108-10, 120 Dunkeld 322-4 258 Kingsbarns Distillery 196 Abbey 288, 222 Dunnet Head 359 crofting 353 Oban Distillery 275 Mackintosh Church 115 Dunoon 254-5 Croick 354 Old Pulteney 358 Mansfield Place Dunstaffnage Castle 205, 305 Shetland Distillery Church 69 291, Crossapol 290 Company 425 204-5 99, Dunvegan 384 Cruach Ardrain 246 Springbank 261 100-1, 100-1 Durness 363-4 Hills 381 Talisker Distillery 382 Round Church 264 Dutchman’s Cap 287 St Clement’s Church 393 Culloden Battlefield 301 diving St Giles Cathedral 51-2 Culross 186-7 Oban 277 St John’s Kirk 200-1 culture 444-9 Scapa Flow 412 E St Machar’s Culzean Castle 161 Shetland 422 Ealaghol 380-1 Cathedral 225 curling 449 St Abbs 153 Earlsferry 199 St Magnus currency 18, 21 Dog Falls 304 Earthquake House 206 Cathedral 402 customs regulations 457-8 dog sledding 311 Island 280 St Nicholas Church 224 cycling 456-7, 465, see Doghouse Merchant East Neuk 196-9 Clearances, the 353, 435-6 also mountain biking City 22 Edinburgh 11, 40, 44-97, Cliad 290 4 Abbeys Cycle Route 150 Dollar 186 45, 48-9, 11, 80-1 climate 18, 27-8 Arran 270 dolphins 13, 234, 298, accommodation 44, 74-9 climbing Bute 257 305, 13 activities 70 Ben Challum 252 Cairngorms 309-10 Dores Inn 308 children, travel with 68 Ben Lomond 245 Callander 250 Dornoch 355-6 climate 44 Ben Nevis 339 Crinan Canal 258, 259 Doune (Stirling Region) drinking & nightlife 185-6 Cobbler 247 Edinburgh 70 88-91 Doune ( 377 Glasgow 116 emergencies 94 Peninsula) 344 Kinlochleven 334 Glen Lyon 331 entertainment 91-3 Doune Castle 186, Meallfuarvonie 306 Great Glen Way 306, 336 festivals & events 72, 205, 204 74, 75 Morrone 320 Killin 252 Doyle, Sir Arthur Conan food 44, 79-87 Old Man of 411 Loch Katrine Circuit 248 445 highlights 45 Prince Albert’s Cairn 319 Heritage drinking & nightlife 15, Trail 203 history 46-7, 62, 71 Sgurr of 346 22, 25, 441-3, 15, see internet access 95 Cobbler 247 Oban 276-7 also pubs, whisky internet resources 95-6 Cock of Arran 270 Orkney 402 driving licences 465 maps 95 Cockbridge–Tomintoul Royal Deeside 319, 320 driving tours medical services 95 road 234 Shetland 416 coast 189, 189 Coigach 366-7 Strathpeffer 352 Galloway Forest Park New Town 62, 64-5 Coire Lagan 381 Tweed Cycle Route 150 170-1 Old Town 47, 52-3 474 Edinburgh continued Spirit of Speyside 237 Glasgow 13, 40, 103-35, museums 191 planning 44, 46 Up Helly Aa 417 104-5, 117, 13, 120-1 planning 37-42 postal services 95 Fetlar 426 accommodation 103, St Andrews 14, 190-3, shopping 93-4 Fife 186-99 118-22 14, 31 sights 47-70 film 102, 448 activities 115-16 Turnberry 161-2 tourist information 95 film festivals 74, 116 children, travel with 125 Golspie 356 City Centre 106-7, INDEX INDEX tours 70-2 film locations 444 108-9 Gourock 135 travel seasons 44 Fingal’s Cave 287 climate 103 Grantown-on-Spey 314-15 travel to/from 96 287 drinking & nightlife 127-30 Grassmarket 62 entertainment 130-1 390-1 E- travel within 96-7 fishing 24, 457  festivals & events 116, 118 H walks 72-3, 73 Arbroath 218 Great Cumbrae 156-7  Edinburgh Castle 47, Cairngorms 310 food 103, 123-7 Great Glen Way 306, 336 50, 80 Grantown-on-Spey 314 highlights 104-5 Greenock 135 Edinburgh Festival Fringe Killin 252 history 106 Gretna 166-7 28, 75 Loch Earn 206 internet access 133 Gretna Green 166-7 Edinburgh Zoo 69 Loch Tay 330 medical services 133 Statue Edzell 221 Newton Stewart 171 planning 103, 106 59-62 Eigg 346-7 Southern Highlands & shopping 131-2 Greyfriars Kirkyard 59 Eilean Donan Castle 375 Islands 255 sights 106-15 Grierson, John 448 electricity 458 Flannan Isles 391 tourist information 133 Elgin 235-6 Floors Castle 149 tours 116 Elgol 380-1 travel seasons 103 H food 21, 23, 438-41 Haddo House 232 Elie 199 travel to/from 133 food & drink festivals haggis 441 Ellenabeich 280 travel within 134 Edinburgh Food Handa Island 365 emergencies 19 Festival 74 West End 112-13, 114 Harris 391-4 Enchanted Forest 324 Fèis Ìle 263 Glasgow Botanic Gardens Hawick 147 environmental issues 451-2 Scottish Real Ale 112-13 health 458 Eshaness 423-4 Festival 74 Glasgow Cathedral 108-10, Helabhal Bheag 384 Eskdale 166-7 Stonehaven Midsummer 120 Helensburgh 247 etiquette 21 Beer Happening 233 of Art 22, 106-7 Helmsdale 356-7 Ettrick Bay 257 Tarbert Seafood Glasgow Science Centre 111 Hermitage Castle 149, events, see festivals & Festival 260 205, 204 events football 449 304-5 Forfar 216 Glen Clova 321-2, 2 353, Evie 409 435-6 Forsinard 362 15, 331-3, 15 exchange rates 19 Fort Augustus 308-9 Glen Etive 331 Eyemouth 151-2 315, 60 Fort George 301 Glen Feshie 313 Glen Harris 346 Highland Games 255, 277, Fort William 335-8 303, 320, 382, 449 F 321 Fortingall 330-1 Highland 322-31 425 Glen Lyon 331 Fortrose 305 Highlands, see Central Fairy Glen 305, 385 Glen Nevis 338-9 Forvie National Nature Highlands, Northern falconry 199 Reserve 232 Glen Shiel 375 Highlands & Islands, Falkirk Wheel 185 Foyers 308 Glen Torridon 371-2 Southern Highlands & Falkland 188, 190 Glencoe Lochan 332 Islands Falls of Foyers 308 Glencoe Massacre 332 hiking, see walking Falls of Shin 354-5 G Glencoe (village) 333-4 423-4 Gairloch 370-1 Faraid Head 363 Gleneagles 199 Hirta 395 Gallery of Modern Art festivals & events 24-5, Glenelg 375 history 430-7 107, 121 27-8, see also arts Glenesk 322 Act of Union 434-5 festivals, film festivals, Galloway Forest Park 170-1 Glenfarclas 237 Battle of Culloden 301 food & drink festivals, 186 Glenfiddich 237 Clearances 353, 435-6 literary festivals, music 390 Glenfinnan 341-2 devolution 437 festivals, sporting gay travellers 90, 128, 459 Glenlivet Estate 318 Enlightenment 436 events geography 450 Glenuig Inn 342 Glencoe Massacre 332 Hogmanay 233 geology 450 Goatfell 270 Industrial Revolution Riding of the Marches George St 63-4 139 golden eagles 452 436-7 Georgian House 64 Scottish Traditional Boat Golden Road 392 Jacobites 435, 436 261-92 Festival 238 golf 14, 37-42, 449 Mary, Queen of Scots Gilmerton Cove 69 British Golf Museum 191 148, 303, 432-4, 435 Gladstone’s Land 51 Edinburgh 70 Picts 431 Map Pages 000 Glamis Castle 205, Loch Lomond 241 Renaissance 432 Photo Pages 000 218, 204 261 Romans 430-1 475 Wars of Independence J Lamb Holm 406 M 433 Jedburgh 147-9 Lamlash 274-5 Macallan 237 WWII 436, 437 54 Lanark 153-4 MacAlpin, Kenneth 431, hitching 466 John O’Groats 359 Langholm 167 432 Hogh Bay 290 Jura 267-9, 263 language 18, 445, 459, Macbeth 432 Hogmanay 28, 76, 233 468-9 MacDiarmid, Hugh 445 holidays 460 Laphroaig 265 Macduff 238 INDEX Holy Island 275 K Largs 155-6 Machair Way 396 kayaking 24, 241, 365, Holyrood 55, 58 legal matters 459 Machars 172-3 373, 421 Horse Shoe 128, Leith 67-8 -Machrie Moor Stone  H 24 259 House of Dun 221 Leodhais 388 Circle 274 Arran 271  M Hoy 411-12, 4 417-20, 418 Machrihanish 261 Gigha 261 Hunterian Art Gallery 112 lesbian travellers 90, Mackintosh, Charles Isle of Skye 377 Hunterian Museum 112 128, 459 Rennie 112, 113, 247, Loch Lomond 241 Hushinish 392 Lewis 388 448 Loch Morlich 313 hydroelectrics 291 Lews Castle 22 Mackintosh House 112 Loch Ness 306 233 MacLeod’s Maidens 384 Loch Tay 330 Liathach 371 MacLeod’s Tables 384 I Lochinver 365 Linlithgow 102 Maid of the Loch 243 246 Oban 277, 280 Linn of Dee 321 Mallaig 343-4 Inchcolm 98-9 Plockton 373 Lismore 292, 16 maps 95, 460 246 Road to the Isles 342 literary festivals 27, 28, 75, Estate 321 246 Shetland 421 143, 158 maritime museums 151, Innerpeffray Library 207 Kelpies, the 185 literature 146, 160, 445, 156, 212-13, 410, 425 insurance 458-9 Kelso 149-51 444-6, see also books markets 296 internet access 459 Kelvingrove Art Gallery & live music 91-2, 130-1 Mary, Queen of Scots 148, internet resources 19, 77 Museum 112, 61 Livingstone, David 136 303, 432-4, 435 Inverarnan 245 Kenmore 329-30 Loch Achray 249-50 May Princess 197 Inverie 344 279-80 Loch Affric 304 McCaig’s Tower 275-6 Inverness 42, 296-309, Kibble Palace 113, 120-1 Loch Awe 291, 317, 316 McCartney, Paul 262 294-5, 297 Kilchoan 340 Loch Coruisk 381 391 accommodation 293, Kilchoman 265 Loch Earn 206 measures 456 298-9 325 Loch Etive 291 Meigle 207 climate 293 Killin 252-4 Loch 267 Melrose 142-4 drinking & nightlife 300 Kilmartin Glen 259 Loch Fyne 258 Mendelssohn, Felix 287 entertainment 300 Kiloran Bay 269 Loch Glencoul 365 Mercat Cross 224 food 293, 299-300 Kincraig 313 Loch Katrine 248, 249-50 Mey 359 highlights 294-5 King’s Cave 274 Loch Ken 167 Miavaig 391 sights 296 315-18 Loch Lee 322 midges 383, 459 tourist information 300 Kinloch Castle 346 Loch Leven 203 Millarochy Bay 245 tours 298 Kinloch Rannoch 327 Loch Leven Heritage Miller, Hugh 305 travel seasons 293 Kinlochleven 334-5 Trail 22 Minginish 381-2 travel to/from 300 Kinross 203 Loch Lomond 12, 241-6, mobile phones 18, 460-1 travel within 301 Kintyre 259-62 244, 12 Monarch of the Glen 315 Inversnaid 245 Kirkcaldy 188 371 money 18, 19, 21, 458, 460 Iona 288-9 Kirkcudbright 168-70 Loch Morlich 313 and the Iona Abbey 288, 222 Kirkoswald 161 Loch Ness 305-9, 317 Holy Grail 186 Irvine 156 402-6, 403 Loch Ness monster 306, Morar 342-3 246 Kirriemuir 220-1 307 235-8 islands 16, 26, 223, 10-11, Knoydart peninsula 344-5 327-8 Morrone 320 , , , see also 16 26 222-3 Kyle of Lochalsh 374 Loch Tay 330 motorcycle travel 464, individual locations Kyleakin 378 327-8, 316-17 465-6, see also driving Islay 262-7, 263 Kylerhea 378 Lochcarron 373 tours Isle of Eigg 346-7 Kylesku 365 Lochinver 365-6 Mount Stuart 257 Isle of May 197 319 mountain biking 24, Isle of Noss 420-1 Lochranza 273-4, 222 171, 356, 457, see also cycling Isle of Rum 345-6 L lochs 317, 316-17 Isle of Skye 11, 35-6, Ladhar Bheinn 344 Lost Valley 332 7stanes 139, 166, 171 375-86, 376, 10-11, 26 Lagavulin 265 Lunga 287 Arran 270 Isle of Whithorn 173 Lagg 274 243 Cairngorms 310, 312 Isleornsay 380 Lairg 354-5 Lybster 357 Glenlivet 318 itineraries 29-32 321 Glentrool 171 476 mountain biking continued People’s Story 55 national parks 451, see opening hours 19, 460 Killin 252 Queensferry Museum 98 also nature reserves Orkney 399-415, 400-1, Laggan Wolftrax 315 111 of 223 Loch Ken 168 Robert Burns Birthplace Scotland 51 accommodation 398 Loch Ness 306 Museum 159 nature reserves climate 398 Mabie Forest Park 166 Scotch Whisky Alladale Wilderness food 398 Reserve 354 INDEX INDEX Nevis Range 339 Experience 51 highlights 400-1 Ben Lawers National Peebles 139 Scottish Fisheries tours 399 Museum 197 Nature Reserve 330 mountains 317, travel seasons 398 316-17 Craigellachie Nature Scottish Football travel to/from 399 M- Mt Keen 322  Museum 115 Reserve 310 Muck 348 travel within 399-402 P Scottish Forvie National Nature  413 Muckle Flugga 425 Museum 233 Reserve 232 Orwell, George 267 Mull 281-7, 281 St Mungo’s Museum Glen Affric Nature 262 of Religious Life & Reserve 304 ospreys 314 Museum of Lead Art 110 Handa Island Nature otters 346, 452 Mining 164 St Vigeans Museum 218 Reserve 365 Our Dynamic Earth 58 museums 25, 61, 60-1, Staffin Dinosaur Nature Our Lady of the Isles 396 see also art galleries, Museum 380 Reserve 425 Outer 386-97, 376 maritime museums Surgeons’ Hall Isle of May 197 Outlander 185, 186 Arnol Blackhouse 390 Museums 69 Loch Gruinart Nature oysters 258 Black Watch Taigh Chearsabhagh 394 Reserve 266 Museum 200 V&A Museum of Lumbister RSPB British Golf Museum 191 Design 212 Reserve 424 P painting 447-8 Burns House 162-3 212 Noup Head 414 Paisley 135-6 Discovery Point 212 Víkingar! 155 St Abbs & Eyemouth Voluntary Marine Palace of Holyroodhouse Glasgow Science Wick Heritage Centre 358 Reserve 153 55, 58 Centre 111 music 446-7 Gordon Highlanders Neist Point 384 Papa Stour 422 music festivals 24-5, 24 Museum 225 Neptune’s Staircase 337 Papa Westray 415 Arran Folk Festival 272 Grampian Transport Ness Islands 296 Papay 415 Celtic Connections 27, 116 Museum 234 Ness of Brodgar 409 parks & gardens Edinburgh International Groam House New Abbey 165-6 Achamore Gardens 261 Jazz & Blues Museum 305 Festival 74 153-4 Benmore Botanic Gunsgreen House 151-2 Garden 254 Fèis Ìle 263 newspapers 95, 456 Halliwell’s House Botanic Gardens Groove Loch Ness 307 Newton Stewart 171-2 Museum 146 (Glasgow) 112-13 Hebridean Celtic Newtonmore 315-18 Hamilton Toy Castle Kennedy Festival 388 North Atlantic Drift 284 Collection 250 Gardens 173 Highlands & Islands North Berwick 99, 102 Hawick Museum & Art Colonsay House Gardens Music & Dance North Coast 500 22, 360 Gallery 147 269-70 Festival 277 North Harris 392 Highland Folk Museum 213 Islay Jazz Festival 263 415 315, 60 Dunkeld House Jura Music Festival 269 North Uist 394-5 Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Grounds 323 Kirkcudbright Jazz northeast Scotland 41, Museum 112 Explorers Garden 324 Festival 169 209-38, 210 Linlithgow Canal Inverewe Garden 370 Mendelssohn on Mull 282 accommodation 209 Centre 102 Ness Islands 296 Mull Music Festival 282 climate 209 McManus Galleries 212 Princes Street Mull of Kintyre Music food 209 Museum of Gardens 63 Festival 262 highlights 210 Childhood 53-4 Queen Elizabeth Forest Orkney Folk Festival 410 55 travel seasons 209 Park 249 Shetland Folk Festival 417 Museum of Islay Life 266 Northern Highlands & Royal Botanic Garden Museum of Lead Stonehaven Folk Islands 14, 42, 349-97, (Edinburgh) 68-9 Festival 233 350-1, 14 Mining 164 Pass of Brander 291 Tarbert Music accommmodation 349 Museum of the Isles 379 Pass of Killiecrankie 325 Festival 260 climate 349 National Museum of Paxton House 152 T in the Park 28, 196 food 349 Scotland 58-9, 81 Peat Inn 195 True North 226-7 highlights 350-1 National War Museum of Peebles 139, 142 Scotland 51 Wickerman Festival 169 travel seasons 349 Pennan 236 People’s Palace 110 People’s Palace 110-11 N O People’s Story 55 Map Pages 000 Nairn 301, 303 Oban 275-9, 276 Perth 199-203, 201 Photo Pages 000 National Museum of Old Course 191 Perth Festival of the Scotland 58-9, 81 Old Man of Storr 385 Arts 202 477 Perthshire 14, 199-208, 14 Rest & Be Thankful 254 Salen 340 Sleat 379-80 phone codes 19, 461 Rhinns of Galloway 174-5 salmon 330 Smailholm Tower 205, 204 Pictish stones 219 Riding of the Marches 139 sand dunes 232 Smith, Adam 188 Aberlemno Stones 220 Rispond 363 Sanday 413-14 smoking 456 Farr Stone 361 River Dee 318-21 Sandwick 421-2 Smoo Cave 363 Riverside Museum 111, 60 Sandwood Bay 366 South Harris 392-4

305 Road to the Isles 341 Sango Sands 363 South Lanarkshire 153-5 INDEX Portmahomack 354 road trips, see driving Sannox 273 South Ronaldsay 406-7 Pilgrims Way 150 tours Scalloway 421 Southern Highlands & 324-6 Rob Roy 245, 248, 252 Islands 41, 239-92, -Scalpsie Bay 257 240  P

Pittenweem 198 142, 171, Scapa Flow 411, 412 accommodation 239  S planning 20-1 182, 187, 291 scenic drives, see driving climate 239 basics 18-19 rock climbing, see climbing tours food 239 budgeting 19 Rocks of Solitude 221 scenic flights 241 highlights 240 calendar of events 27-8 305 scenic railways 221, 234, travel seasons 239 highlights 8-9, 8-9 286 310, 312 Southern Scotland 41, internet resources 19 Rosslyn Chapel 99, 100-1, 317, 327, 317 138-75, 140-1 itineraries 29-32 100-1 Scone Palace 200 accommodation 138 repeat visitors 22 Rothesay 256-7 Scotch whisky, see whisky climate 138 Scotland’s regions 40-2 Rothiemurchus Estate Scotland’s Secret Bunker food 138 309-10 travel seasons 18, 27-8 198 highlights 140-1 Rousay 412-13 Plockton 373-4, 7, 31 63 planning 138 Rowardennan 245 poetry, see literature Scott, Sir Walter 63, 144, travel seasons 138 Royal Botanic Garden 68-9 politics 102-4, 437 146, 331, 380, 444 Southern Upland Way 150 Royal Deeside 318-21 population 103 Scottish Dolphin Centre Spar Cave 380 Royal Mile 47, 50-5 234 Port Askaig 267 Spark, Dame Muriel 445 Royal Scottish Port Charlotte 266-7 Scottish Lighthouse Spey Bay 234 Academy 63 Museum 233 Port Ellen 264 Speyside Cooperage 237 Royal Yacht Britannia 68 Port Righ 382-4 Speyside Way 35 rugby 27, 142, 449 156 Portmahomack 354 Spirit of Speyside 237 ruins, see also Scottish National Gallery sport 27, 92-3, 131, 448-9, Portnahaven 266-92 archaeological sites, 63 see also individual Portpatrick 175 standing stones Scottish National Gallery of sports Portree 382-4 Arbroath Abbey 218 Modern Art 67 sporting events Portsoy 238 Beauly Priory 303 Scottish National Portrait Ba’, the 404 Potter, Beatrix 323 Castle Coeffin 292 Gallery 65-6 Étape Caledonia 324 Princes Street 62-3 Castle Sinclair Girnigoe Scottish Parliament Highland Games 255, Provand’s Lordship 110 358 Building 55 277, 303, 320, 382, Scottish wildcats 452 public holidays 460 Clickimin Broch 417 449 Scourie 365 pubs 25, 89, 442, 24, Dunfermline Abbey & Isle of Jura Fell Race 269 see also drinking & Palace 187 Scrabster 359-61 Mull Rally 282 nightlife, whisky Earl’s Palace (Birsay) seals 292, 335 Open Championship 193 puffins 426, 17, 222-3 409 Seil 280-1 St Andrews Highland Earl’s Palace (Kirkwall) Selkirk 146-7 Games 193 402 Q Sharmanka Kinetic Wave Classic 289 Inchmahome Priory 248 Theatre 107 Queensferry 98 UCI Mountain Bike World Invermark Castle 322 22 Shetland 416-26, 400-1 Cup 336 Kildalton Chapel 264 Quiraing 385 accommodation 398, 420 West Highland Yachting Old Wick Castle 358 climate 398 Week 277 Oronsay Priory 269 food 398 World Stone-Skimming R Ruthven Barracks 315 highlights 400-1 Championships 280 386 St Andrews Cathedral tourist information 416 St Abbs 152-3 radio 95, 456 190 travel seasons 398 St Andrew Sq 64-6 rafting 24, 329 St Blane’s Chapel 257 travel to/from 416 St Andrews 14, 190-6, 192, Rannoch Moor 327, 328 Yell Windhouse 424 travel within 416 14, 31 Real Mary King’s Close 53 Rum 345-6 shopping 25 St Cuthbert’s Way 150 Ruthwell 165 red deers 452 Skara Brae 17, 408-9, 17 206 Red Point 370 skiing 24, 312-13, 333, St Kilda 395 red squirrels 452 S 339-40 St Margaret’s Hope 406 Reef Beach 391 safety skimming 280 St Monans 198-9 reindeer 313 hitching 466 Skipness 260-1 St Mungo’s Museum of religion 103 Religious Life & Art 110 road 466 Skye 375-86, 376 478 St Ninian’s Isle 422 Tomich 304 Cairngorm Mountain 312 Waterstein Head 384 287 Tomintoul 318 Cairngorms 36 weather 18, 27-8 standing stones 172, 259, Tongue 362-3 Callander Crags 250 websites 19, 77 274, 390, 394, 408, Torridon 371-2 Cateran Trail 208 weights 456 see also archaeological tourist information 461 Chain Walk 199 West End Festival 28 sites, ruins tours 466 Corryvreckan 12, Stevenson, Robert Louis INDEX INDEX Traigh Mor 397 Viewpoint 268 34-5, 241, 334, 12 52, 98, 175, 444-5 Traigh Uige 391 Craigendarroch 319 Westray 414-15 Stirling 177-84, 179 train travel Creag Choinnich 320 280, 283, 177-8, 180-1 Crinan Canal 258, 259 284, 343, 370 S- costs 464, 466-7  Stirling region 177-86 whisky 15, 442-3, , see Z discount cards 467 Cuillin Hills 381 15  Stone of Destiny 62, 200 also distilleries passes 467 Duirinish peninsula 384 Stonehaven 232-4 festivals 237, 263 to/from Scotland 19, 464 Edinburgh 70 388-9 museums 51, 237 within Scotland 22, 466-7 Eigg 347 Stranraer 173-4 white-water rafting 24, 329 Traquair House 143 Evans’ Walk 268 Strathblane 136-7 Whithorn 173 travel to/from Scotland Falls of Foyers 308 Strathdon 234-5 19, 463-4 Fife Coastal Path 193 Whiting Bay 274 Strathglass 304-5 travel within Scotland 19, Five Sisters of 375 Wick 357-8 Strathnaver 362 464-7 Giant’s Graves 274 Wigtown 172-3 Strathpeffer 352-3 trekking, see walking Glasgow 116 wildlife 451, 452 409-11 Troon 157 Gleann Lichd 375 wildlife reserves, see also Strontian 340 Trossachs, the 248-54, 244 Glen Lyon 331 nature reserves Sumburgh 422-3 Peninsula Glencoe Lochan 332 Balranald RSPB Reserve 394 surfing 24, 153, 225, 289, 385-6 Glenesk 322 359-60 Gairloch Marine Wildlife Turnberry 161-2 Great Glen Way 306, 336 Surgeons’ Hall Museums Centre & Cruises 370 TV 456 Hermitage, the 323 69 Loch Druidibeg National tweed 393 Isle of Skye 35-6, 377 swimming 70, 233 Nature Reserve 396 Tweed Cycle Route 150 Jock’s Road 321-2 Syre 362 Loch of the Lowes Tyndrum 246-7 Jura 267-8 Wildlife Centre 323 Kerrera 279-80 wildlife watching 13, T U Killiecrankie 325 451, 452, see also T in the Park 28, 196, 24 Uamh Fraing 347 Killin 252 birdwatching Tain 353-4 287 King’s Cave 274 Aberdeen 225 Talisker Bay 382 Ullapool 367-8 Kinloch Rannoch 327 dolphins 13, 234, 298, Tarbert (Kintyre peninsula) 305, 13 424-6 Kintyre Way 259 259-60 Fort William 335 Up Helly Aa 417 Loch Leven Heritage Trail Tarbert (Harris) 391-2 22, 203 Galloway Forest Park 170 Urquhart Castle 307, 317 Tarbet 243 Machair Way 396 Highland Wildlife Park taxes 463 321 313 Disaster 213 V Millennium Forest Kerrera 279 327 V&A Museum of Design 22 Path 245 Mull 282 Taynuilt 291 visas 18, 461-2 Morven 319 Oban 280 telephone codes 19, 461 volunteering 462 Mull 283 Rannoch Moor 328 telephone services 18, New Lanark 154 Shetland 426 460-1 Paps of Jura 268 whales 280, 283, 284, Telford, Thomas 280 W Pilgrims Way 150 343, 370 Wade’s Bridge 328 theatre 92, 131 Rannoch Moor 328 windsurfing 289 walking 24, 25, 33-6 theme parks 314 Rob Roy Way 241 wineries 406 100 Steps 305 Threave Castle 167 short walks 35 women travellers 462 Affric-Kintail Way 304 Three Sisters 331 Southern Upland Way work 462 Arbroath 218 Thurso 359-61 150 Arran 270 tides 268, 284 Speyside Way 35, 318 Beaver Detective Trail St Cuthbert’s Way 150 Y Tighnabruaich 255 260 Yell 424 Stac Pollaidh 367 time 18, 461 Beinn Eighe Mountain Three Lochs Way 241 tipping 21 Trail 371 West Highland Way 12, Tiree 289-90, 281 Ben Nevis 13, 13 Z 34-5, 241, 334, 12 ziplining 139, 249 Tobermory 283-5 Borders Abbeys Way 150 Wallace, William 136, zoos 69 Bracklinn Falls 250 178-82, 183, 432, 433 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 479

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Cafe Train station/Railway Park/Forest Tram Entertainment Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Neil Wilson Neil was born in Scotland and has lived there most of his life. Based in Perth- shire, he has been a full-time writer since 1988, working on more than 80 guidebooks for various publishers, including the Lonely Planet guides to Scotland, England, and Prague. An outdoors enthusiast since childhood, Neil is an active hill-walker, mountain-biker, sailor, snowboarder, fly-fisher and rock-climber, and has climbed and tramped in four continents, including ascents of Jebel Toubkal in Morocco, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, the Old Man of Hoy in Scotland’s Orkney Islands and the Northwest Face of Half Dome in California’s Yosemite Valley.

Andy Symington Andy has written or worked on over a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock , has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Andy, from Australia, moved to Northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the tragically poor local football side or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains.

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