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Behind the Scenes ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 470 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments repro- duced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. much more. Gratitude goes also to Morwynne OUR READERS Carlow, Riika Åkerlind and numerous helpful Many thanks to the travellers who used folk met along the way. Big thanks also go to the last edition and wrote to us with help- co-author Neil Wilson, editor James Smart and ful hints, useful advice and interesting the LP team. anecdotes: Beck Robey, Charlotte Walber, Dirk Gudde, Erin Fredericks, Fran Boersma, John Charles, Judy ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Pengelly, Kim MacDonald, Kristine Quint, Lucy Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Graham, Mario Pennacchio, Sebastian Braden, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Stephanie Lacasse, Vanessa Mattingly World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System WRITER’S THANKS Sciences, 11, pp1633–44. Andy Symington Illustrations p56-7, p100-101 and p180-1 by I owe thanks to many, but firstly to Jenny Neil Javier Zarracina. and Brendan Bolland for being great friends and superb hosts, to Juliette and David Pa- Cover photograph: Steam train crossing ton for their perpetual generosity and warm the Glenfinnan Railway Viaduct, Nick Fox/ welcome and to my father for the whisky and Shutterstock © Product Editors Kate Chap- Fionnuala Twomey, Simon THIS BOOK man, Ross Taylor, Amanda Williamson This 9th edition of Lonely Plan- Williamson Assisting Cartographer Gabe et’s Scotland guidebook was Senior Cartographer Mark Lindquist researched and written by Neil Griffiths Cover Researcher Naomi Wilson and Andy Symington, Book Designer Cam Ashley Parker who also wrote the previous Assisting Editors Peter Thanks to Cheree Broughton, two editions. This guidebook Cruttenden, Bruce Evans, Daniel Corbett, Sasha Drew, was produced by the following: Gabrielle Innes, Bella Li, Anne Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Destination Editor James Mason, Kate Mathews, Lauren Martine Power, Lauren Smart O’Connell, Gabrielle Stefanos, Wellicome ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 471 Index 7stanes 139, 166, 171 Aonach Eagach 331 Fergusson Gallery 200 B Appin 292 Fyne Gallery 259 Ba’, the 404 Applecross 372 Gallery An Talla Dearg Badachro 370 A aquariums 187, 191, 238 380 Abbotsford 144 Badbea 357 Arbroath 218-20 Gallery of Modern Art Aberdeen 224-32, 226-7 bagpipes 446-7 archaeological sites, see 107, 121 accommodation 227-8 Ballater 318-19 also ruins, standing Hawick Museum & Art Balloch 243 activities 224-6 stones Gallery 147 Balmaha 245 drinking & nightlife 229 Banks Chambered Hunterian Art Gallery 112 Balmoral Castle 205, 319 entertainment 229-30 Tomb 407 Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Balnakeil 363 festivals & events 226 Barnhouse Neolithic Museum 112 Balquhidder 252 food 228-9 Village 408 Kirkcaldy Galleries 188 Banff 238 sights 224-6 Dun Carloway 390 McLean Museum & Art tourist information 230 Dwarfie Stane 411 Gallery 135 Barra 397 travel to/from 230 Grey Cairns of Pier Arts Centre 410 Barraigh 397 travel within 232 Camster 357 Royal Scottish Barrie, JM 220 Aberdeenshire 221-35 Jarlshof 422 Academy 63 beaches 23 Aberdour 188 Knap of Howar 415 Scottish National Banff Links 238 Aberfeldy 328-9 Maeshowe 407-8 Gallery 63 Bosta 390 Aberfoyle 248-9 Midhowe Cairn & Scottish National Gallery Calgary Beach 285 Aberlemno Stones 220 Broch 413 of Modern Art 67 Camusdarach Beach 236, 342 Aberlour 236-8 Mine Howe 406 Scottish National Portrait Gallery 65-6 Coldingham Bay 153 accommodation 22, Mousa Broch 421 420, 454-6, see Ness of Brodgar 409 Shetland Gallery 424 Coll 290 also individual locations Old Scatness 423 Watermill, the 328-9 Coral Beaches 384 Acharacle 342 Quoyness chambered Wild Space 324 Durness 363 A’Chill 347 tomb 413 Arthur’s Seat 58, 21 Hushinish 392 Achiltibuie 367 Ring of Brodgar 408 arts 444-8 Nairn 301 activities 24, 27-8, 456-7, Rousay 413 arts festivals Red Point 370 see also individual Skara Brae 17, 408-9, 17 Art & Crafts Trail 169 Reef Beach 391 activities Tomb of the Eagles 407 Burns an’ a’ That 28 Sandwood Bay 366 Adam, Robert 64, 66, 117, Torrylinn Cairn 274 Edinburgh Festival Sannox 273 151, 161, 448 architecture 113, 448 Fringe 28 Scousburgh Sands 422 Adam, William 59, 149, 232, Ardbeg 265 Edinburgh International Silver Sands of Morar 342 238, 448 Ardgay 354 Festival 28 Traigh Mor 397 Ailsa Craig 162 Ardlui 243 Nairn Book & Arts Beauly 303 air travel 19, 463, 464 Ardmore Islands 264 Festival 303 beavers 260 Airor 344 Ardnamurchan 340-1 Perth Festival of the beer 233, 441, see also Alloway 159-61 area codes 19 Arts 202 breweries Alyth 207 Arisaig 342-3 St Magnus Festival 403 Beinn Alligin 371 amusement parks 225 Armadale 379-80 West End Festival 28 Beinn Eighe 371 An Coroghon 347 Arnol 390 Winter Words 324 Beinn Mhor 396 Askival 346 An T-Ath Leathann 378-9 Arran 270-5, 271 Beltane 415 animals 451, 452 Arrochar 247-8 Assynt 365-6 Ben Challum 252 Annandale 166-7 art galleries, see Atholl Highlanders 326 Ben Lawers 252, 330 Anstruther 197-9 also museums ATMs 460 Ben Lomond 241, 245 Aberdeen Art Gallery 224 Auchmithie 218 Ben Lui 246 Aviemore 309-12 Map Pages 000 Burrell Collection 113 Ben More 246, 283 Ayr 157-9, Photo Pages 000 Dundee Contemporary 158 Ben Nevis 13, 339, 317, Arts 213 Ayrshire 155-62 13, 316 472 Benbecula 395 Mull 281, 282 Burray 406 Crathes Castle 232 Berneray 394 Mull of Kintyre 262 bus travel 19, 97, 162, Culcreuch Castle 136-7 Bettyhill 361-2 Oban 277 464, 465 Culross Palace 187 Bharpa Langass 394 Plockton 373 business hours 19, 460 Culzean Castle 161 bicycle travel, see cycling Portree 382 Bute 255-7 Doune Castle 186, 205, Biggar 154-5 Seil 280 Byron, Lord 319 204 INDEX Bigton 422 Shetland 417, 421-2 Duart Castle 282 birds 451, 452, 17 Torridon 371 Dunnottar Castle 232-3 C Dunollie Castle 275 birdwatching 16, 451, Trossachs, the 249 Caerlaverock Castle 165, 452, 456 Dunrobin Castle 356 B- Uist 396 205, 2, 205 Aberdeen 225 Dunstaffnage Castle C Ullapool 367 Cairngorm Mountain Ailsa Craig 162 Wick 358 312-13 205, 291, 204-5 Galloway Forest Park 170 Boddam 422 Cairngorms 36, Dunvegan Castle 384 Handa Island 365 Bonar Bridge 354 309-22, 310 Edinburgh Castle 47, 50, 80 Isle of Noss 420 Bonawe Iron Furnace 291 Caithness 357-61 Edzell Castle 221 Loch Gruinart Nature Bonnie Prince Charlie 301, Caledonian Canal 308, Reserve 266 435, 436 336, 317 Eilean Donan Castle 375 Loch Ken 168 books 102, 433, 434, 436, Caledonian Railway 221 Falkland Palace 190 Mull 281 437, 438, 445, 448, 451, Calgary Beach 285 Floors Castle 149 North Berwick 99 see also literature Callander 250-2 Fyvie Castle 232 North Uist 394 Borders Abbeys Way 150 Callanish 390 Glamis Castle 218, 204 Orkney 414 Borders Railway 22 Calton Hill 66-7, 81 Glengorm Castle 285 RSPB Loch Garten Bosta 390 Camera Obscura 51 Hermitage Castle 149, 205, Osprey Centre 314 Bostadh 390 Campbeltown 261-2 204 Inverness Castle 296 Shetland 16, 420, 423, Bowmore 264, 265, 266 Campsies 136-7 424, 425, 426 Kilchurn Castle 291, Brae 423 canals 185 316 St Kilda 395 Kinloch Castle 346 Braemar 319-21 Canna 347-8 Birks of Aberfeldy 328 Kisimul Castle 397 Braemar Gathering 28 Caol Acain 378 Birnam 322-4 Lews Castle 22, 388 Brechin 221 Caol Ila 265 Birsay 409 Linlithgow Palace 102 Bressay 420-1 Cape Wrath 364 Black Isle 305 Lochleven Castle 203 breweries 441-2 car travel, see also driving Black Wood of Benleva Hotel 307 tours Lochranza Castle 273 Rannoch 327 Brewdog 22, 88, 127, 129, driving licences 465 MacLellan’s Castle 169 blackenings 405 184, 229 hire 465-6 Muness Castle 425-6 Blackwaterfoot 274 De Brus 188 road rules 466 Noltland Castle 414 Blair Atholl 326-7 Fyne Ales 258 to/from Scotland 464 Rothesay Castle 256 Blair Castle 326 Isle of Arran 272 within Scotland 18, 19, Scalloway Castle 421 Blairgowrie 207-8 Moulin Hotel 325 465-6 Scone Palace 200 Blantyre 136 Sligachan Hotel 381 Carloway 390 Skipness Castle 260 Boat Cave 287 St Andrews Brewing Carrbridge 314 Smailholm Tower Boat of Garten 314 Co 195 Carsaig Arches 283, 287 205, 204 boat travel 19, 464, 465 Traquair House 143 castles & palaces 16, 23, St Andrews Castle 190-1 boat trips West 127 205, 16, 204, see Stirling Castle 177-8, Arisaig 343 Orkney Brewery 409 also ruins 180-1 Tantallon Castle 99 Coigach 367 Bridge of Balgie 331 Aberdour Castle 188 Tarbert Castle 259 Durness 363 Bridge over the Atlantic 280 Balmoral Castle 205, Threave Castle 167 Elgol 380-1 Broadford 378-9 319 Urquhart Castle Glasgow 116 Brodick 271-3 Blair Castle 326 307, 317 Islay 263 Brough of Birsay 409 Braemar Castle 320 Isle of May 197 Breachacha Castle 290 cathedrals, see churches & Broughty Ferry 217 cathedrals John O’Groats 359 Brodick Castle 271 Brown,
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