The Highlands Pennsylvania CONSERVATION ATLAS Route 78 over South Mountain, Lehigh County; Furnace Hills forest, Lancaster/Lebanon County; Cooks Creek, Northampton Highlands, Bucks County

Just beyond the eastern seaboard megalopolis, a productive countryside to a sterile sea of where large cities and suburbs merge into the poorly-planned development. nation’s most densely populated area, more than three million acres of forested ridges, This vital landscape is located in the shadow fertile farmland, pure streams, lakes, and of some of the largest metropolitan areas reservoirs form the regional landscape known in America. The as the Highlands. Stretching from northwestern is a 1.4-million-acrePennsylvania region within Highlands easy reach Connecticut across the Lower Hudson Valley of millions of residents from Philadelphia, of New York, through northern New Jersey Allentown, Reading, Pottstown, and Harrisburg. and southeastern Pennsylvania, on to the This juxtaposition makes the Highlands Maryland state line, the Highlands region increasingly valuable, both economically represents a modern-day frontier between the and aesthetically. rural Appalachian Mountains and the increasingly urban lands along the Atlantic coastline. Sparkling streams, quality drinking water, outstanding recreational opportunities, The Highlands have historically provided critical wildlife habitat, ecotourism potential, essential goods and resources needed to ensure productive farms and forests, and rural the survival and economic prosperity of the community character – these qualities make 25 million people who live within an hour’s drive the Pennsylvania Highlands a unique place. of this four-state region. As the backyard for the nearby urban complex, this region continues This Conservation Atlas was created from information provided by local land trusts a wealth of resources close to home to close resources of wealth a to supply communities with clean drinking water, critical wildlife habitat, impressive recreational and county agencies. It identifies the most and tourism opportunities, and distinctive important natural, historical and cultural places to live. The Highlands Region hosts resources in each area. A greenway map more than 14 million recreational visits annually, illustrates important connections to be more than Yellowstone National Park. made between project areas.

The careful protection, management, and The goal of this Atlas is to make the public use of the natural resources located in aware of the importance of the Pennsylvania this nationally-significant region are Highlands region by portraying the special essential for the long-term sustainability places and resources found there. It is a call of both nature and the cities we live in. for action to help protect this incredible and Protection measures must be adopted threatened region. Please contact one of the before these resources are forever lost to many organizations listed in this publication urban expansion, changing the region from to see how you can help.

1 History 3

Conservation areas/maps

5 Northampton Highlands

7 South Mountain

9 Oley Hills

11 Unami Hills

13 Hopewell Big Woods

15 PENNSYLVANIA HIGHLANDS REGION

17 Welsh Mountain

19 Furnace Hills

21 Sand Hills

23 Conewago Mountains

25 Whiskey Springs Uplands

27 South Mountain Faces

Summary 29

Acknowledgements 30

Big Woods sunset, Berks County; Furnace Hills farmland and forest, Lancaster/Lebanon County; trout lily

2 The natural resources of the Highlands have . Iron ore and been critically important throughout the history limestoneAmerican in Revolutionthe Pennsylvania Highlands of Pennsylvania and the United States. Water, established this region as the economic center minerals, and working lands here served as of the early iron industry. In 1776 the region the backbone of colonial settlements and the was home to over 50 iron forges and furnaces, American Revolution and fueled the Industrial more than all the other colonies combined. Revolution. Today, the entire Highlands region The Horseshoe Trail was established in the has been designated nationally significant late 1700’s as a trail linking the numerous through an act of Congress, the Highlands forges and furnaces. While most of the iron was Conservation Act. used for household items like pots, nails, and hinges, several furnaces, including Hopewell Pennsylvania is known as the Keystone State Furnace, cast cannons and ammunition for the because of its key role in the economic, social, colonial militia. The forests of the Pennsylvania and political development of the colonies and Highlands were used to make charcoal to fuel the United States. The Pennsylvania Highlands the furnaces and forges, and water flowing from provided resources that sustained early settlers. the Pennsylvania Highlands powered countless Countless streams and rivers flowing off the waterwheels in grain mills. The waterways were elevated landscape of the Highlands provided used to transport raw materials and finished water resources for the lands in the surrounding goods to markets, helping to drive the political valleys, where early settlers tended farms and engine of the new world. orchards that fed a growing population. The streams and rivers also provided fish and Discovery of anthracite coal in Schuylkill other food. Forests provided building materials County in 1790 drastically changed life in and fuel for cooking and heating. The forests the Pennsylvania Highlands and focused the humans and the Pennsylvania Highlands humans and the Pennsylvania also provided game and many plants used economic engine on mineral extraction and for food and medicine. processing. During the , the iron and coal industriesIndustrial located Revolution in and The abundance of natural resources in this near the Pennsylvania Highlands transformed vast landscape provided a fledgling nation the area into a world leader in steel technology with the sustenance, energy, and raw materials and led to the development of large factory that it needed to establish independence and complexes in places like Reading, Birdsboro, to embark on a period of growth and prosperity. Pottstown, and Bethlehem. Immigrants flocked to the area to work in mines, steel The water, wood, and minerals of the mills, breweries, textile mills, tanneries, ship Pennsylvania Highlands helped fuel the yards, refineries and numerous other industries

Lehigh Valley Railroad, Lehigh County; orchard, Berks County; loggers, Berks County

3 Delaware and Lehigh Canal, Leigh County; Conewago Creek, South Mountain Faces, Adams County; Saucon Iron Works, Northampton County

that used the rich mineral resources of this Human use of the Pennsylvania Highlands area as raw materials to produce goods. has changed greatly throughout our nation’s history, from a natural landscape that sustained For nearly a century, Bethlehem Steel was early colonists, to an industrialized region that responsible for providing the steel for many produced steel used worldwide during the 20th of the most famous bridges and skyscrapers century. The Pennsylvania Highlands region in the country. The iron industry of the continues to meet our more current needs by Pennsylvania Highlands declined through providing us with open space for recreation the late 19th and 20th century, and Bethlehem and clean drinking water. Steel stopped making steel in 1995, a milestone in the decline of the American Industrial Era. The need for these natural resources will not diminish, but will grow as the human population of Pennsylvania Highlands increases. The ability of the region to meet resourcesCurrent haveuses evolved with our changing these needs is threatened by the unplanned economy and suburbanization. The region development that continues to consume this continues to provide clean drinking water valuable greenbelt. Conservation measures, for millions of Pennsylvanians. The lands here such as protecting priority lands, adopting provide habitat for an immense array of plants low-impact development practices, and and animals and produce food and fiber for educating the public about the value of natural an ever-increasing population. As more people lands, are critical to the continued survival work indoors, commute longer distances, and of the Pennsylvania Highlands region. lose connection to the land, there is a growing need for open spaces where one can commune Our quality of life depends upon protecting the with nature’s peace and beauty. Recreational natural heritage of the Pennsylvania Highlands. opportunities provide a high quality of life for countless Pennsylvania residents and those from surrounding states who visit the Pennsylvania Highlands region.

4 5 Northampton Highlands facts Protected: Total: Acreage Northampton &Bucks Counties include creeks thatflowdirectly tothe The waterwaysof the Northampton Highlands hibernaculum inPennsylvania. Mine isthe siteof the second largest bat and easternwoodrat. The abandoned Durham the area include bobcat,blackbear, beaver, species. Larger mammals thatpassthrough coyote, red squirrel, and uptotenbat The including weasels, mink, up to50different species of mammals, a significant natural landscape supporting gneiss inthe Northampton Highlands create The rocky r least bitternand peregrine falcon. endangered and threatened species like the provides habitattoalmost 200birds including Bucks County Natural Areas Inventory and is afirstpriority conservation siteinthe and indigo bunting. CooksCreek Watershed as American woodcock, yellow-breasted chat, attract less-common edge species such small hawks. Habitats near oldfarm fields other birds such aswoodpeckers, owlsand Highlands attract woodland warblersand The woodland habitatsof the Northampton soils produced food for amuch broader area. agricultural area. Historically, itsprime continues tobealocallyimportant character. Limestone-rich StoutsValley this area exhibits apredominantly rural situated southof Bethlehem and Easton, the banksof the Delaware Riverand Pennsylvania Highlands. Nestled along the most northeasterly expression of the 21,482acres Northampton Highlands 288acres idges of granite, quartzite, and gray fo 215-345-7020 Doylestown, PA 18901 85 OldDublinPike Heritage Conservancy 610-264-4544 Allentown, PA 18109 961 Marcon Boulevard,Suite310 Lehigh Valley PlanningCommission Organizations x, is eastern and atriskof being losttodevelopment. Northampton Highlands isprivatelyowned place tovisit.The majority of land inthe create agreat placetoliveand anevenbetter and the splendid character of thiscountryside of anglers. The scenic views of StoutsValley the Northampton Highlands isafavorite pursuit it isnamed. Fishing inthe pristine creeks of trail follows the banksof the riversfor which in thisarea. The Delaware and Lehigh walking Numerous recreational assetsare available the settlement and formation of thislandscape. now aNational Heritage Corridor, wascritical to militia. The Delaware and Lehigh Canal system, well ascannon ballsand shot for the colonial and produced everyday iron implements, as Mill. The DurhamMilld Mill, the Rodenback farmstead, and the Durham farmstead, Coffeetown GristMill,Moritz Grist of Historic Places, including the Jacob Arndt structures are listedonthe National Register History abounds inthisarea, and numerous River bythe National Park Service. area isdesignated asafederal Wildand Scenic as Exceptional Value. The Delaware Riverinthis 337 acres of wetlands. The creek isdesignated Coons Run.The Cooks Creek Watershed contains to CooksCreek include SilverCreek and Hollow brown trout populations. Significant tributaries excellent waterquality and hosts wildbrook and Watershed, the regi Delaware and Lehigh Rivers. CooksCreek 610-965-4397 Emmaus, PA 18049 3701 Orchid Place Wildlands Conservancy [email protected] Springtown, PA 18081 PO Box45 Cooks CreekWatershed Association on’s largest ates tothe early1700’s creek, possesses Limestone-rich soil makes the agricultural productivity of the Northampton Highlands important. Woodland habitat and recreational opportunities make the Delaware River watershed a national treasure.

Easton Reading De Harrisburg NDS l IA HIGHLA aw NJ SYLVAN are PENN

Philadelphia

Lancaster Canal Canal

INTERSTATEINTERSTATE NORTHAMPTON 78 Bethlehem

INTERSTATE l 78 Stouts Va

Bougher Hill !

State

Cooks Creek Park Watershed Durham Mine Rapp Creek Watershed

Natural Lands Northampton Highlands Developed Areas Boundary Protected Land County Boundaries BUCKS Critical Treasures Major Roads Waterways

Miles 021

6 7 South Mountain facts Protected: Total: Acreage Lehigh &Northampton Counties Mountain The rocky, wooded hillsides of view of the Saucon Valley below. the ridgeline, providing visitorsapanoramic age thatstands more than40feetabove mass of Pochunk gneiss of the Precambrian Geological site, BauerRock, which isa also contains aPennsylvania Heritage in the stateof Pennsylvania. SouthMountain most activesitesfor salamander reproduction (vernal) poolsthatare thought tobethe Species of Special Concern and hasspringtime priority natural area, contains twoplant counties. The RobertRodale Reserve, atop Areas Inventory of Lehigh and Northampton conservation areas identified bythe Natural South Mountain contains several priority have their headwaters onthe mountain. Mountain, and Trout Creek and BlackRiver Saucon Creek flowthrough gapsinSouth to the Lehigh River. Leibert’sCreek and Several waterwaysflowfrom SouthMountain 250,000, share the slopesof the mountain. with atotalpopulation of more than and the boroughs Emmaus and Hellertown, The cities of Allentown and Bethlehem it exceptionally important openspace. urban areas and suburbansprawl, making Creek. SouthMountain issurrounded by crystalline rock thatruns along Saucon Mountain consists of anarrow band of Reading Prong geologic formation, South of southwestLehigh County. Part of the 5,920 acres 58 acres dominate the natural landscape 610-264-4544 Allentown, PA 18109 961 Marcon Boulevard,Suite310 Lehigh Valley PlanningCommission Organizations South developed easternPennsylvania area. opportunities itprovides for the heavily for both itsbi life-sustaining water, with mineral riches, flora and fauna, and This dramatic geological feature, complete a major role inthe livesof Pennsylvanians. settlement, SouthMountain isstillplaying Today, 300yearsafterthe firstEuropean Industrial Revolution of the Lehigh Valley. the iron furnaces helped giverisetothe as welltrees tomake charcoal tofire availability of iron ore onSouthMountain, led allof the counties inthe state. The production of iron ore, and Lehigh County In 1880,Pennsylvania ledallstatesinthe from the end of the CivilWar toabout1885. began in1809.The greatest activitywas The mining of iron ore onSouthMountain House, stillapopularhistorical destination. for travelers, the “zufluchtshaus” orShelter In 1734,settlersestablished awaystation through SouthMountain atLiebert’s Gap. Lehigh Valley, King’s Highway, passed 1720’s. The firstpublic road into the was firstsettledbyEuropeans inthe an agricultural wayof life. SouthMountain Historically, SouthMountain supported odiversity and the 610-965-4397 Emmaus, PA 18049 3701 Orchid Place Wildlands Conservancy is of particular value recreational South Mountain, with its rocky wooded hillsides and its water-filled 19th century iron ore quarries, provides a dramatic backdrop and abundant natural area for the rapidly growing population of the Lehigh Valley.

8 9 Oley Hills facts Protected: Total: Acreage Berks County settled the Valley inthe early1700’s. However, valley’s shape. EarlyEuropean immigrants meaning ahollow orkettle, suggesting the Americans calledthe OleyValley “Olink”, from the 18thand 19thcenturies. Native of cultural and historical resources dating The Oleyregion contains arich assortment Natural Species Heritage Program. Species of Special Concern bythe Pennsylvania sedge, and cranefly orchid, identified asplant the logfern,swamplousewort,woolyfruited region isforested. Thishabitatisperfectfor Approximately 75percent of the OleyHills hillsides covering nearly 27,500acres. mixed deciduous woodlands onsteep,rocky The Oley Hills landscape consists of significant animals such asthe bogturtleand rigid sedge. the lifebloodof endangered and threatened associated seeps, springs, and wetlands are of the Perkiomen Creek. These streams and and Saucony Creeks and the West Branch are found here –Bieber, Pine, Oysterville, state-designated Exceptional Value streams the region’s most valuable watersheds. Five of pristine rivers, representing some of The OleyHillsboastmore than60miles forests feelprimeval toallwho visit. the core of the District, Pike, and Rockland townships form remarkable waterand forest resources. the verdant OleyValley and alsosupply Hills of northeastern BerksCounty, the Shaping the character of the rural communities 27,500acres provide sweeping scenic vistasfrom 687acres Oley Hills, wh ose towering Oley, PA 19547 PO Box239 Pine CreekWatershed Association 610-372-4992 Reading, PA 19601 25 North11thStreet Berks CountyConservancy Organizations Oley have beenprotected. and 513acres under conservation easement lands, a57-acre parkinDistrict Township, success –117acres of StateGame Commission this goal. There hasalready beensome Association are working together toward Conservancy and Pine Creek Valley Watershed and Recreation Plan.The BerksCounty top priority inthe BerksCounty OpenSpace ecological resources inthe OleyHillsisa Fortunately, protecting land, water, and the rare qualities of thisoutstanding landscape. conservation easements isneeded topreserve additional protection through zoning and slopes, boulder fields, wetlands, and streams, somewhat naturally protected byitssteep adequately protected. Although the area is way. Onlytwopercent of the OleyHillsis transportation corridors literally pavethe serious pressure, asimprovements tonearby residential development isbecoming a in the OleyHillsisunprotected. Sprawling Unfortunately, the majority of the land prosperity for the area. Area, which focuses onpromoting economic in the Schuylkill RiverNational Heritage nation’s history, the Oley Hills are located Register of Historic Places in the United Stateslistedonthe National the distinction of being the onlytownship region isbestknown. OleyTownship holds and architectural stylesfor which the Oley it isthe Pennsylvania Dutchagriculture 610-478-6300 Reading, PA 19601-4309 14th Floor 633 CourtStreet Berks CountyPlanningCommission . Steepedinour Hilltop contour-planted farmland in the Oley Hills can be found nestled between steep woodland slopes that are the headwaters of five state-designated Exceptional Value streams.

10 11 Unami Hills facts Protected: Total: Acreage &Bucks Montgomery Counties drinking water, and sceni an 829-acre r 3400-acre Green Lane County Park. The parkhas Creek, connecting the Schuylkill RiverTrail tothe such asthe Perkiomen Heritage Area include recreational amenities River’s industrial artifacts. Priorities of the preservation and interpretation of the Schuylkill National Heritage Area, which focuses onthe The Unami Valley ispartof the Schuylkill River salamander, and northern copperhead. fox, mink,easterncoyote, woodfrog, spotted Unusual animals are alsofound here –gray Important Bird Area for forest interior birds. has designated the Unami Forest asan and American redstart. scarlet tanagers, Louisiana waterthrush, interior forest thatprovides ahome for The Unami Valley contains amixed dec Green Lane, Perkiomenville, and Schwenksville. provide acleandrinking watersource for Valley creeks –feedGreen Lane Reservoirand tributaries –the Unami, Macoby, and R Pineland pimpernel. The Perkiomen Creek’s such asriverskimmer, easternfloater, and of perennial streams thatsupportaquatic life The Unami Creek Valley hastwenty-four miles in the surrounding forest thathelps maintain high waterquality Hills iscovered byawide swathe of upland Covering about16,000acres, the Unami Montgomery and northwestern Bucks counties. form the largest forest blockinnortheastern The vastwoodlands of the 22,867acres 2,939acres eservoir thatprovides recreation, historic Audubon Pennsylvania Trail alon c views. The Unami Unami Hills stream valleys. 610-287-9383 Schwenksville, PA 19473 1 SkippackPike Perkiomen Watershed Conservancy 610-353-5587 Media, PA 19063 1031 PalmersMillRoad Hildacy FarmPreserve Natural LandsTrust Organizations g Perkiomen iduous iduous idge idge county agencies. Montgomery County Lands Trust, and Unami Hillsinclude Natural Lands Trust, complete conservation acquisitions inthe Whites MillSwamp.Groups working to Creek, Sumneytown, SouthSlopes, and Significance, including R County NAIlistsnumerous Sitesof Statewide areas along Unami Creek. The Montgomery V Ridge including Valley sitesasconservation priorities, Areas Inventory (NAI)liststhree Unami development. The Bucks County Natural equally large area isstillvulnerable to been permanently preserved, butan A good deal of the Unami Hillshas from the mid-18th century. example of Pennsylvania German architecture a National Historic La evident inthiscommunity. The Antes House, culture and itsuniqueinfluences are still mill owned byE.I.DuPont deNemour. German iron furnaces and mills, including apowder in America. Forests here provided fuelfor continuously occupied German communities Goschenhoppen isone of the oldest century, calling itGoschenhoppen. Today, farmers settledthe area inthe early18th American Lenape tribe. German immigrant inhabited bythe Unami clanof the Native The Unami Creek Valley wasoriginally on the National Registerof Historic Places. resources are plentiful, withseveral listed ScoutCampground. The Valley’s historic Boy Valley alsocontains 215-513-0100 Lederach, PA 19450 PO Box300 Montgomery CountyLandsTrust alley Creek and two the 1,200-acre Musser ndmark, isanoutstanding idge V idge alley, Unami Unami Creek makes a spectacular run through a boulder strewn streambed, as drifts of spring flowers grace the wetlands of the Unami Hills.

12 The heart of the Pennsylvania Highlands, of note include the cerulean warbler and the , encompasses scarlet tanager. The Glen Morgan Lake IBA, roughlyHopewell 100 square Big miles Woods of contiguous forest. also within the Hopewell Big Woods, supports Critical Treasures identified in the Hopewell an impressive diversity of birdlife, including Big Woods include the Hay Creek and French the bald eagle and pied-billed grebe. Creek Watersheds, Glen Morgan Lake, and Birdsboro Waters – because of their pristine Coventry Forge, the birthplace of the American waters, rich cultural and historical resources, colonial iron industry, and numerous iron and significant recreational opportunities. furnaces, forges, and mills are located in the Hopewell Big Woods. Among these are Joanna Two state-designated Exceptional Value streams, Furnace and Hopewell Furnace National Historic Hopewell Big Woods Hopewell Hay Creek and French Creek, flow through Site, which interpret the iron-making industry. the Hopewell Big Woods. The creeks provide Hopewell Furnace is surrounded by French drinking water to the residents of Birdsboro Creek State Park, which provides outdoor Borough and support reproducing native trout recreation and tourism. The Thun Trail, as well as a variety of wetlands, including Horseshoe Trail, State Gamelands No. 43, Pine Swamp, considered a “globally unique” and Warwick County Park offer recreation broadleaf acidic swamp. opportunities such as fishing, hiking, rock climbing, and canoeing. The rocky terrain and unique wetlands of the Hopewell Big Woods provide crucial habitat for While 14,800 acres of the Hopewell Big Woods dozens of plants and animals, including the are currently protected in State Parks, State bog turtle, a federally threatened species, and Game Lands, Hopewell Furnace National bog bluegrass, a Pennsylvania threatened plant Historic Site, and conservation easements, species. Other animals known to live in the an astounding 58,000 acres of the Hopewell Hopewell Big Woods include black bear, bobcat, Big Woods are unprotected from development fox, and mink. The Pennsylvania Biological and environmental degradation. Development Survey has designated the Hopewell Big Woods pressures in this part of Pennsylvania are as an Important Mammal Area due to its diverse intense, notably a development in New Morgan and abundant wildlife. Predominant tree species Borough that could include 12,500 dwelling include mature oak, poplar, birch, maple, and units. A proposal to repair and reopen Route beech, with an understory of mountain laurel 82, after eighteen years of closure due to and rhododendron. flooding, would connect the heart of the Hopewell Big Woods to State Route 422, one The National Audubon Society has designated of the fastest growing transportation corridors the Hopewell Big Woods as an Important Bird in Pennsylvania, potentially causing irreparable Area (IBA), based upon documentation of more environmental damage to this special area. than 200 bird species living there. Some species

factsCounties Organizations Berks & Chester Natural Lands Trust Green Valleys Association Hildacy Farm Preserve 1368 Prizer Road Acreage 1031 Palmers Mill Road Pottstown, PA 19465 Total: 73,000 acres Media, PA 19063 610-469-4900 Protected: 14,800 acres 610-353-5587

Hay Creek Watershed Association PO Box 162 Geigertown, PA 19523 13 [email protected] Colonial industry was located in this region because of the extensive forests once dominated by American chestnut trees. Today the Hopewell Big Woods is threatened by encroaching development.

14 THE PENNSYLVANIA HIGHLANDS

The Pennsylvania Highlands Greenway Map highlights core A Critical Treasure is a recognized priority area for additional natural areas in the Pennsylvania Highlands, called Hubs, land conservation efforts in the Highlands that has significant with potential connectors between them, called Corridors. value for open space preservation, watershed protection, habitats for plants or wildlife, or outdoor recreation.

Hubs are areas that have a high natural resource value such as INTERSTATEINTERSTATE large intact forests or abundant wildlife and, little fragmentation Natural Lands are landscapes that are not densely developed 818 such as forests or farmland broken up by large developments. urban areas, while Developed Areas are landscapes that do Hubs are both undisturbed natural lands and adjacent protected fall within an intensely developed urban setting. lands such as state parks, forests or game lands. For more information on the Pennsylvania Highlands Greenway Corridors are the best potential lands to connect the Hubs. project, please visit Appalachian Mountain Club’s website: While Corridors are not necessarily natural or protected www.outdoors.org/PA_Highlands. lands they are important as they connect Hubs and often provide the most practical routes for animals to travel between core habitat areas.

Harrisburg Furnace H Sand Hills

INTERSTATEINTERSTATE 7676 Whiskey Springs Uplands

Conewago Mountains

INTERSTATE SU 81 15

York South Mountain Faces

US 30

INTERSTATEINTERSTATE 8383

MARYLAND Hagerstown

15 Easton NEW JERSEY Allentown-Bethlehem South Northampton INTERSTATEINTERSTATE 7878 Mountain Highlands

Oley Hills Reading

Unami Hills

Hills

INTERSTATE 76 US 422 Big Woods INTERSTATEINTERSTATE 4764477766

Welsh Mountain Philadelphia

Lancaster

US 30

PENNSYLVANIA DELAWARE N Hubs Corridors W E Natural Lands S Developed Areas Protected Land PA Highlands Boundary State Boundaries Major Roads

010205 Miles16 , rising over 1,000 hid cash in the boulder fields. This area Welshfeet in eastern Mountain Lancaster County and contains several trails overlooking the valley western Chester County, contains the floor and unique natural areas. The Conestoga second largest contiguous forest in Lancaster River Water Trail, a designated Pennsylvania County, surpassed only by the forests of Water Trail, is located just north of Welsh the Furnace Hills. The long Welsh Mountain Mountain within the Susquehanna River Basin. ridge sits just south of Pennsylvania Route The water trail is 60 miles long, extending 23, and provides scenic vistas of highly from Caernarvon Township west to the productive Amish farms in the valleys below. Susquehanna River.

Welsh Mountain Welsh The waterways of Welsh Mountain feed Welsh Mountain’s proximity to the Morgantown Chesapeake Bay, the country’s largest exit of the Pennsylvania Turnpike has made estuary. Area streams include Pequea the area a target for development. Most Creek and tributaries of the Conestoga land on Welsh Mountain is privately owned. River. Mill Creek, at the western end Historically, the rugged terrain has prevented of Welsh Mountain, is the source for residential building; but, the mountain has New Holland’s six-acre reservoir. The more than its share of landfills and has recently eastern part of Welsh Mountain forms started to feel growth pressure from the the headwaters of the Brandywine River’s City of Lancaster, Village of Morgantown, east and west branches, both designated and Borough of Honey Brook. Much of the as High Quality streams. Welsh Mountain landscape lies within the imperiled Chesapeake Bay Watershed, further Welsh Mountain supports a diversity of underscoring the need to safeguard this ridge. plants and animals on its wooded slopes and rock outcroppings. Black birch is typical, The Lancaster County Conservancy is working with an understory of mountain laurel. The to acquire the New Holland Reservoir land rock outcroppings are covered with lichens, adjacent to Money Rocks County Park to mosses, and ferns. Money Rocks County Park, expand this natural area. Although several a 340-acre park between New Holland and significant tracts have been conserved, more Honey Brook boroughs, is home to raccoon, protection is needed for this narrow landform red-eyed vireo, and white oak along the that feeds the Chesapeake and Delaware “Cockscomb” ridgeline area. Bays and is one of Lancaster County’s few natural areas. Money Rocks County Park is named for a local legend in which Pequea Valley farmers

factsCounties Organizations Lancaster & Chester Lancaster County Conservancy Lancaster County Planning Commission 117 South West End Avenue 50 North Duke Street Acreage PO Box 716 PO Box 83480 Total: 7,369 acres Lancaster, PA 17608 Lancaster, PA 17608-3480 Protected: 342 acres 717-392-7891 717-299-8333

Brandywine Conservancy PO Box 141 Chadds Ford, PA 19317 17 610-388-2700 The rugged terrain of the Welsh Mountain ridge contrasts with the Pequea Valley, still dominated by prosperous farmland.

18 19 Furnace Hills facts Protected: Total: Acreage Lancaster &Lebanon Counties country. Cornwall Furnace produced various greatest known deposit of iron ore inthe The nearby Cornwall Ore Bankswasonce the this anideal location for Cornwall Furnace. timber, and the limestone usedfor fluxmade close tothe surface, aswellabundant water, of thisarea for more than200years. Iron ore The iron industry wasthe economic backbone many historic sitesfrom the nation’s iron era. The Furnace Hillsprovide the bac and white-taileddeer are found here. osprey, hawks, spring warblers, red fox, of the Furnace Hills. Nesting baldeagle, fields, ponds, and marshy pothole habitats animals are found inthe forests, lakes, More than280species of birds and other tundra waterfowl, most notably snow geese and Hills isacritical sanctuary for migrating River Birding and WildlifeTrail. The Furnace the Pennsylvania Area, the facility alsoisadestination on Commission. Awell-known Important Bird Area, operated bythe Pennsylvania Game acre Middle Creek WildlifeManagement The focal point of thisarea isthe 6,250- of land, including many state game lands. encompasses approximately 31,000acres counties, the Furnace Hillslandscape on the borders of Lancaster and Lebanon Located eastof the Susquehanna River, a major stronghold for natural resources. hub of the Pennsylvania Highlands and Furnace Hills Rising toanelevation of 1,000feet,the 30,985acres swans, which number over100,000. 13,369 Audubon’s Susquehanna form the central forested 717-272-3908 Lebanon, PA 17042 2120 Cornwall Road Lebanon Valley Conservancy 717-392-7891 Lancaster, PA 17608 PO Box716 117 SouthWest EndAvenue Lancaster CountyConservancy Organizations kdrop for of the Pennsylvania Highlands Region. by the natural conditions and human history is typical of the small communities shaped The distinctive character of Mount Gretna on the former Cornwall toLebanon railroad. Gretna wasastation and recreation area mansion. The uniquevillage of Mount England, isheld onthe grounds of the of acountry festivaltypical of 16thCentury Renaissance Faire, arollicking production Register of Historic Places. The Pennsylvania its gardens are listedonthe National The Victorian Mount Hope Mansion and fishing tohiking and boating. opportunities ranging fr Lands, which provide outdoor recreation frequently associated withStateGame recreation areas inthe Furnace Hillsare Pennsylvania Highlands. Thisand other numerous iron furnaces and forges inthe used totransport goods toand from the the Furnace Hills. Historically, itwas amenity extending the entire length of The Horseshoe Trail isamain recreational and gunblocksduring the CivilWar. cannonballs during the Revolutionary War, cast iron products, pig iron, cannon, and 717- 272-3908 Lebanon, PA 17042 Suite 5 2120 CornwallRoad Lebanon CountyConservationDistrict om hunting and The Furnace Hills surround the Middle Creek Wildlife Management Area’s 400-acre lake, which provides a way station for hundreds of thousands of migrating waterfowl every year.

20 The region of lower Dauphin Cultural and historic resources abound in CountySand stands Hills nearly alone as the bastion and around the Sand Hills. Several Derry of natural resources along the eastern shore Township sites are listed on the National of the Susquehanna River. This area’s expansive Register of Historic Places, including the woodlands and unique geologic features have quarries of the Hummelstown Brownstone helped shape the heritage and character of Company. Hummelstown, just northwest its people and communities. Underlain by a of Sand Hills, contains a National Register sandstone formation, Londonderry Township Historic District. Londonderry Township and the surrounding area were built in the contains several historic farmsteads. These mid 1800’s with the pink, purple, and brown communities are characteristic of the quaint

Sand Hills sandstone quarried by the Hummelstown villages in the Pennsylvania Highlands. Brownstone Company. The sandstone formation is a highly visible and scenic knoll called Significant outdoor recreation areas include Round Top, which provides panoramic views State Game Land 246, which may become an from its summit. Appalachian Trail destination. The 22-mile Jonathan Eshenour Memorial Trail passes The Dauphin County Natural Areas Inventory through the Sand Hills and will ultimately identifies important habitats for a variety of link Palmyra and Hummelstown and tie into animals in the Sand Hills region, including the to the planned Swatara Creek Greenway Round Top Thicket in northeast Londonderry and trail. Township, boulder belts of local significance, and the Iron Run Dam site. Among several Although some of the Sand Hills are in federal and state rare and endangered plant State Game Land 246, the rest of the Sand and animal species in the Sand Hills area are Hills needs protection from development the long eared owl, upland sandpiper, Allegheny pressures from adjacent Derry Township. woodrat, and timber rattlesnake. Of particular conservation importance are Round Top Thicket and the Iron Run Dam The Sand Hills are within the Chesapeake site. This mix of historic, cultural, and Bay watershed, and its streams follow Iron natural resources makes the Sand Hills Run and Swatara Creek into the Susquehanna one of the unique landscapes in the River. These waters have been degraded by Pennsylvania Highlands. human causes and are designated a Warm Water Fishery (WWF) by the Department of Environmental Protection. Wetlands and floodplains near the base of the Sand Hills provide habitat for nine types of sedges and four types of rushes.

factsCounty Organizations Dauphin South Central Assembly Dauphin County Parks and Recreation for Effective Governance PO Box 1295 Acreage 777 West Harrisburg Pike Harrisburg, PA 17108-1295 Total: 8,052 acres Middletown, PA 17057 717-780-6300 Protected: 423 acres 717-948-6324

21 Hummelstown sandstone walls quarried in the 19th century and pristine farmland in the 21st century attest to the lasting ecological value of the Sand Hills landscape.

22 The of northern Pinchot Lake and its shoreline wetlands attract York ConewagoCounty are forested Mountains hills towering more thousands of waterfowl such as mergansers, than 1,400 feet above sea level. The Conewago Canada geese, mallard ducks, loons, and teal. Mountains form an arc of peaks that includes Blair Hill, Nell’s Hill, Flat Mountain, Round Significant recreation areas of the Conewago Top, Pinetown Hill, Wright Knob, John’s Mountains include State Game Land 242 Knob, Ramsey Hill, and Straight Hill. Diabase and Gifford Pinchot State Park. The park formations, these hills contain large rock lies on the southern edge of the Conewago outcroppings, boulder fields, and sensitive Mountains, and its lake is known for excellent natural areas. The mountains spread across fishing. Beaver Creek provides Class III to V

Conewago Mountains Conewago Warrington, Conewago, Monaghan, Newberry, whitewater for intermediate to advanced and Fairview townships. whitewater paddling. Ski Round Top is a privately owned resort with a full range of The Conewago Mountains lie within the outdoor recreation. The Warrington Quaker Chesapeake Bay watershed and are part of the Meetinghouse, built in 1769 on Carlisle smaller Conewago Creek watershed. Beaver Road, has been called the finest example Creek, a tributary of Conewago Creek, and of early Quaker meeting house architecture the Conewago itself are designated as Warm in the country. Water Fisheries since agricultural practices have degraded their water quality. Sediment Although the Conewago Mountains provide and nutrient runoff from croplands, pastures, many outdoor recreation opportunities barn lots, and stream corridors are the main and a fair amount of protected land, they impairment issues. are located in a rapidly developing area 10 miles south of Harrisburg between two The Conewago Mountains contain several burgeoning transportation corridors. Their priority conservation areas identified by future is unclear. The York County Planning the York County Natural Areas Inventory. Commission, Conservation District, and the Nells Hill Swamp, a successional red maple Farm and Natural Lands Trust of York County swamp with seeps, is a unique landscape are working to protect steep slopes, woodlands, feature in York County. The swamp is home and wetlands that provide wildlife habitat to the giant swallowtail butterfly and shumard’s and water recreation. oak. Erney Cliff, a sparsely vegetated eroded cliff rising steeply above the Conewago Creek, contains a growth of wild oats. The forests of Gifford Pinchot State Park are surrounded by farm fields and are a rest stop for migrating forest birds – warblers, vireos, and thrushes.

factsCounty Organizations York Farm and Natural Lands Trust Watershed Alliance of York, Inc. of York County 118 Pleasant Acres Road Acreage 156 North George Street York, PA 17402 Total: 27,793 acres Suite 300 717-840-7430 Protected: 3,684 acres York, PA 17401 717-843-4411

23 Priority conservation areas in the Conewago Mountains – wetlands, farmland, and forested hills rising to elevations over 1,440 feet above sea level – surround the 340-acre lake at Gifford Pinchot State Park.

24 25 Whiskey Springs Uplands facts Protected: Total: Acreage Cumberland &York Counties Blue R Knob and WhiteRockssummits, along the well-known for trout fishing. Center Point for the watersamberappearance and is one of the high quality waterways, isnamed natural resources. Yellow Breeches Creek, and supportmany sensitive and important high-quality streams characterize the area of the SouthMountain. Wooded slopesand Cumberland County mark the northern end The which flowsnorth from Whiskey Spring tofeed Whiskey Spring Uplands is fishing. Another High Quality waterwayinthe River, which draws anglers toits banksfor fly High Quality stream and aPennsylvania Scenic The Yellow Breeches Creek isadesignated scenic overlook. limestone caves, and Hammond Rocks, a are Boiling Springs Cave, containing three and bobcats. Two other uniquenatural features including red and grey fox, blackbears, ridgelines provide habitatfor larger mammals, and bogturtle. The wooded slopesand animals –the sedge wren, mud salamander, threatened and endangered plants and wetland that ishome toseveral Pennsylvania contains a200-acre Exceptional Value Spring Uplands. This900-acre preserve as ahigh-priority natural area inthe Whisky Inventory identifies Mount Holly Marsh The Cumberland County Natural Areas the valley. elevation and provide panoramic views of 12,716acres Whiskey SpringsUplands idge, 720acres rise more than1,000feetin the OldTown Run, 717-240-5362 Carlisle, PA 17013 18 NorthHanoverStreet,Suite 102 Cumberland CountyPlanning Commission 717-233-0221 Harrisburg, PA 17108 PO Box587 Central PennsylvaniaConservancy Organizations of of of the Harrisburg and Carlisleurbancenters. unprotected from the sprawling development Most of the upland area of thisregion is Township Park, and Historic Iron Works Park. Wittlinger Nature Preserve, SouthMiddleton the Appalachian Trail passes),the Donald including StateGame Land 305(through which significant r The Whiskey Springs Uplands offer many mountains provided fuelfor the furnaces. The timberonthe rolling hillsand low limestone necessary for the iron industry. high-quality deposits of iron ore and the Whiskey Springs Uplands provided the large, in Boiling Springs date tothe 1760’s. The The furnaces of the former CarlisleIron Works Places are the Boiling Springs Historic District. listed onthe National Registerof Historic Whiskey Springs Uplands. Among the sites contribute tothe bucolic setting of the Abundant historic and cultural resources the eastand ultimately tothe Chesapeake Bay. streams drain tothe Susquehanna Riverto the Yellow Breeches Creek. Allof the area’s ecreation areas attheir base, 717-232-6001 Harrisburg, PA 17101 6th Floor 500 NorthThirdStreet The NatureConservancy The northern terminus of the Mason-Dixon Trail meets the Appalachian Trail at Point Knob on the Blue Mountain ridge, 1,000 feet above the Whiskey Springs uplands and Yellow Breeches Creek.

26 Rising nearly 2,000 feet above the nearby and Historic District, and the Lincoln Highway Gettysburg Civil War Battlefield, South State Heritage area. Mountain is the southernmost expression of the Pennsylvania Highlands Region. South The Adams County Fruitbelt, containing Mountain is located on the border of Adams, hundreds of acres of highly productive Franklin, and Cumberland counties and is orchards, lies to the east of the South one of the largest distinct landforms of the Mountain Faces and is eligible for listing Pennsylvania Highlands. on the National Register of Historic Places. Cultural areas and events within view of the The South Mountain ridgeline creates spectacular South Mountain Faces include the National scenic views known as the Apple Museum in Biglerville and the annual South Mountain Faces . The area includes theSouth Narrows, Mountain which Apple Blossom and Apple Harvest Festivals, Facesis identified as a Critical Treasure and known which attract nearly 150,000 visitors. for its good water quality and excellent trout fishing. The Conewago Creek cuts through Michaux State Forest’s original woodlands South Mountain in a sinuous and stunningly were cut in the 19th century for charcoal beautiful water gap, providing passage for to fuel the iron furnaces. Regeneration tourists from the Adams County Fruitbelt to and replanting of the forests have resulted Buchanan Valley. in a source of hardwoods for sustainable timber harvesting. The forested slopes of Seeps and springs abound on the slopes creating the South Mountain Faces provide critical important wetland environments in this area. habitat for animals such as the Appalachian The extensive Marsh Creek Wetlands, located at cottontail, short-eared owl, barn owl, and the foot of South Mountain Faces, is another the American bittern. Critical Treasure and supports numerous plants and animals, including sedges, grasses, rushes, Although much of South Mountain is protected, wildflowers, and bog and red bellied turtles. the slopes forming vistas visible from the Fruitbelt are unprotected and at risk of being The South Mountain Faces countryside abounds lost. Adams County is the fourth fastest with 18th and 19th century relics from the iron developing county in Pennsylvania. Much of industry and is adjacent to both Michaux State this development pressure is from Washington Forest, the oldest state forest in Pennsylvania, D.C. and Baltimore, Maryland. and Pine Grove Furnace State Park, with remnants of a charcoal-fired iron furnace. The South Mountain Faces must be protected Other significant sites in the area include from poorly-planned development to safeguard the Seven Stars Confederate Hospital Site, the area’s character and historic views, wildlife the Marsh Creek Skirmish Site, Cashtown Inn habitat, and agricultural resources.

factsCounty Organizations Adams Land Conservancy of Adams County Adams County Conservation District 670 Old Harrisburg Road 670 Old Harrisburg Road Acreage PO Box 4584 PO Box 4584 Total: 9,308 acres Gettysburg, PA 17325 Gettysburg, PA 17325 Protected: 0 acres 717-334-2828 717-334-0636

Adams County Planning Commission The Conservation Fund 19 Baltimore Street 105 North Front Street Suite 101 Suite 400 Gettysburg, PA 17325 Harrisburg, PA 17101 27 717-337-9824 717-230-8163 Abundant orchards, well-tended farmland, and extensive wetlands lie in the shadow of South Mountain, where the fast-flowing Conewago Creek cuts its way to the Adams County Fruitbelt.

28 The Highlands region lies within the most Development in Pennsylvania is sprawling densely populated area of Pennsylvania. at an alarming rate, even though the total Perhaps it is not an accident that so many number of people living in the state is people have chosen to live next to this nearly stagnant. According to the Brookings landscape of plenty. The land here has always Institute, in the last 20 years the amount summary been generous to Americans, providing food, of land developed nearly equaled that fiber, water, and the raw materials to help developed from Colonial times through 1980. them flourish as a nation. These sprawling development patterns are The pristine waters we now use for drinking problematic because they devour land – water, formerly powered mills and furnaces. the same land that we depend on for critical The timber we harvest is used to build, beautify, resources and as a nourishing connection and heat our homes. The agricultural land to the natural world. If we build houses in has some of the most fertile soil in the the places that provide us with clean drinking world. The Pennsylvania Highlands truly is water, where will we go for a drink of water? a land of plenty. If we destroy forests and farms to plant houses, where will we go for a breath of fresh The history of the air and local food? provides us with a Pennsylvaniasense of who we Highlands are as a people. This region played important roles This bleak forecast can be avoided. Many in the War for Independence and the Industrial non-profit organizations and all levels of Revolution. Remnants of centuries-old iron government are working hard to protect furnaces, forges, and mills now dot this the Highlands’ resources from poorly planned landscape. They provide us with a rich development. The entire four-state Highlands cultural heritage. region was designated nationally significant by Congress through the Highlands Conservation Act (2004). The Pennsylvania Department of Conservation and Natural Resources has designated the Highlands a Greenway of Statewide Significance. Many local governments have established conservation, greenway, and open space planning policies.

The future of the Pennsylvania Highlands’ distinctive character, lifestyle, and resources will depend on our decisions and actions today.

Skunk cabbage/vernal pool, Big Woods, Berks/Chester County

The Pennsylvania Highlands is a unique region, a fabric woven of people and places. Found here are habitats of unique plants and animals, as well as distinctive places for people to live.

The future of this landscape and the natural products it continues to provide is uncertain.

29 acknowledgements Kirk Stoner Mary Jan Acknowledgements Data development Photography Review andediting Graphic design Map development Authors Tom Gettings Dawn Serra Stephanie Williams Sarah Weigle Jackie Kramer Drew Gilchrist Sydney Kuhn Kristen Sykes Jim Thorne, PhD Larry Lloyd Terrence Nolan John Storelli Scott Wails Bret Magdasy Patrici Todd R.Stell,AICP Highlands CoalitionPennsylvaniaStateCommitteemembers: highlighted inthispublication and provided general supportinthe creation of thisdocument. All of the members of the Highlands Coalition Pennsylvania StateCommitteehelped toidentify the landscapes Partnerships Program,and grantstothe Appalachian Mountain Clubfrom theWilliamPenn Foundation. and Natural Resources, underthe CommunityConservation of Conservation BureauofRecreation andConservation, Funding • • • • • • • • • • • • • a M.Thomas, AICP Land Conservancy of Adams County Lancaster County Conservancy Keystone Conservation Trust Highlands Environmental Research Institute Heritage Conservancy GreenSpace Alliance Green Valleys Association Farm and Natural Lands Trust of York County Delaware and Lehigh National Heritage Corridor The Brandywine Conservancy Berks County Conservancy Audubon Pennsylvania Appalachian Mountain Club forthisprojectwas providedinpartbygrantsto theTrust forPublic LandfromthePennsylvaniaDepartment e Stell,P.G. Larry Loyd Anne Barrett Charles Wertz Tisha Walmer Richard Schmoyer, AICP Margaret McGarrity Diane Kripas Robert Lonsdorf Jon Meade • • • • • • • • • • • Wildlands Conservancy The Wilderness Society The Trust for Public Land South Central Assembly for EffectiveGovernance and Natural Resources Pennsylvania Department of Conservation Pennsylvania Game Commission Pennsylvania Environmental Council Natural Lands Trust Montgomery County Lands Trust Lehigh Valley Planning Commission Lebanon County Conservation District Mixed hardwoodforest,SouthMountain,LehighCounty ©2006 30 The Trust for Public Land Appalachian Mountain Club The Highlands Coalition The Trust for Public Land Founded in 1876, the The Highlands Coalition (TPL) is a national, Appalachian Mountain Club includes more than nonprofit, land conservation (AMC) is America’s oldest 150 national, state, organization that conserves conservation and recreation regional, and local land for people to enjoy as organization. The AMC organizations in parks, community gardens, promotes the protection, enjoyment, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, historic sites, rural lands, and wise use of the mountains, rivers and Connecticut working together to and other natural places, and trails of the Appalachian region. protect and enhance the sustainability ensuring livable communities for The AMC believes that the mountains of natural and human communities in generations to come. Since 1972, TPL and rivers have an intrinsic worth and the Highlands. This region of forest, has worked with willing landowners, also provide recreational opportunity, farmland, and rugged hills provides community groups, and national, state, spiritual renewal, and ecological and clean drinking water for over 14 and local agencies to complete more economic health for the region. The million Americans, habitat for over than 3,000 land conservation projects AMC encourages people to enjoy and 250 threatened and endangered in 46 states, protecting more than two appreciate the natural world because plants and animals, and numerous million acres. Since 1994, TPL has the organization believes that successful recreational opportunities. helped states and communities craft conservation depends on this experience. www.highlandscoalition.org and pass almost 300 ballot measures, www.outdoors.org generating over $19 billion in new conservation-related funding. www.tpl.org