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Enjoy your COMPLIMENTARY COPY of Dublin In Your Pocket

April - May 2012

Vintage Dublin Retro threads and designer classics at Temple Bar’s coolest shops

Whiskey a go-go Shake your tail feather at Old Jameson Distillery’s Irish Shindig Nights

N°25 dublin.inyourpocket.com

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THE CITY THAT FOUGHT AN EMPIRE DUBLIN’S REBEL Visit the places where Ireland’s history unfolded and, in the words of the poet Yeats, “a terrible beauty was born” WALKING TOUR TOUR TIMES: MONDAY TO FRIDAY – 11:30AM SATURDAY – BY APPOINTMENT PRICE ONLY €10 AND TAKES ABOUT 2 HOURS AT AN EASYGOING PACE

Sinn Féin Bookshop, Telephone: (01) 814 8542 58 , Dublin 1, Ireland Email: [email protected]

10% DISCOUNT 19 16 WITH THIS AD Contents 3

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES

Contents

Arriving 5

Getting Around & The Basics 6

History 8

Culture & Events 9

Sport 10

Where to stay 11 Pillow plumping for weary heads

Howth Harbour ©Fáilte Ireland.

Where to eat 14

Nightlife 19 There's whiskey at the bar

What to see 23 Drink it all in

Temple Bar 37 Exploring Crow Street and other treats

Dublin Daytrips 39 Coastal escape within city reach

Shopping 41 Vintage rules

Maps & Street Register Street Register 47 City map 48-49 Catch the Irish Shindig Nights at Old Jameson Distillery Ireland map 50 (p.36) dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012 4 Foreword Arriving

As the sun slips off her shady cloak, thoughts turn to warmer climes and, dare we say, fewer clothes. The World of In Your Pocket We're talkng cool, classy clobber as befits a day out in Dublin. Which is why we've scoured Temple Bar's Northern Estonia Ireland finest vintage emporiums to inspire you to go retro and Russia re-love those glamorous decades gone by. Leaf to our Ireland Latvia Vintage Shopping section (p.43) and uncover unique Lithuania fashion finds to make you stand out from the crowd. Then, when you're in the area, take a wander down Crow Street (p.38) to find yet more one-off shops and cafes Belarus Netherlands awaiting your patronage. This is the great thing about Poland Dublin - quirky and fabulous outlets await at every Germany turn... you just need to know where to go. Ukraine Czech Once you've adorned yourself with that cute dress and Republic dapper suit, contemplate a trip to the Old Jameson Distillery where the Irish Shindig Nights start up again Austria from April-October. A whiskey cocktail always goes Switzerland Slovenia Romania down well with that glammed-up look. Croatia And if you crave more of the past, check out History Italy Bosnia Serbia (p.8) and What to see (p.23) for more info on the Easter Bulgaria Rising and those sites associated with this pivotal Montenegro Kosovo chapter in the history of modern Ireland. FYR Macedonia There's lots more to see and do in the big city and Albania beyond. So read up, head out and have the holiday Greece of your life. It has been a busy start to the year for In Your Pocket, with a brand new guide published in Italy Cover story (Cagliari), and many more in the early stages of production, including what will be our first guide in We love these vintage Belgium (Ghent). We have also just launched a shops so much, we took new version of our iPhone app, which can now their photos and made be downloaded from the AppStore. Search for our very own holiday ’IYP Guides’. album. The facades invite The number of cities we cover has now climbed shoppers to peek within past 75, and the number of In Your Pocket guides and discover a thing of published each year is approaching an amazing beauty - from clothes and five million. To keep up to date, like In Your Po- accessories to toys and cket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) crafts. The perfect escape or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). if you've had enough of the You can also now follow our tips on Foursquare homogeneous High Street. (foursquare.com/inyourpocket).

Editorial Copyright notice Managing Editor Text copyright In Your Pocket Ltd. 2000- Heidi McAlpin (048) 9047 1328 2011. Maps copyright Maps in Minutes, ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES [email protected] Failte Ireland and TASCQ. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may Dublin Editor be reproduced in any form, except brief Dublin In Your Pocket Adam Hyland extracts for the purpose of review, without www.inyourpocket.com [email protected] written permission from the publisher and www.twitter.com/dubiyp copyright owner. The brand name In Your www.facebook.com/dubliniyp Advertising Sales Director Pocket is used under license from UAB Alan Groves (+44) (0)7795 082505 In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, [email protected] Lithuania tel. (+353)(0)1 (+370-5) 212 © In Your Pocket Ltd. 29 76). History contributor Published six times per year by In Dr. Jonathan Bardon OBE Editor’s note Your Pocket Ltd. The editorial content of Dublin In Your Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaite Pocket guides is independent from paid- For all enquiries and comments for advertising. We welcome all readers’ contact [email protected]. For more news events, comments and comments and suggestions. We have competitions find us on made every effort to ensure the accuracy Next issue June - July 2012 of the information at the time of going to and press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012 Arriving 5

Whether arriving on a low-budget plane, piloting your own Learjet or driving sedately off a ferry, here’s some €1 = handy info to help smooth your journey. Doors to manual. £0.82, US$1.31,CAD$1.59, AUS$1.27 xe.com rates 11 April 2012 By plane Dublin Airport Tel. (+353)(0)1 814 1111, www. dublin-airport.com. The country’s main airport is By train situated approx. 10km north of Dublin city centre near Regional and national transport is getting there with a cross- the M50 and M1 motorways. A large number of buses, country rail network and super swift city services gliding you coaches and taxis serve the airport which has two effortlessly from coast to coast. Jump aboard our listings and terminals - including the gleaming new T2. Remember to read up on Ireland’s InterCity railway system, Dublin’s two pay for any car parking at the automatic pay stations in main stations and the capital’s DART and networks. the arrivals hall - or at the entrance to the short term car park - before returning to your car, as there are no cashiers Iarnród Éireann Tel. (+353)(0)1 1890 77 88 99 - talk- at the exit. A bank, Bureau de Change and 24hr ATMs ing timetable, www.iarnrodeireann.ie. Ireland’s national dispensing Euros, US$ and GBP£ are on the arrivals level. train company covers 87 InterCity stations with services The Airport Information Desk, Dublin Tourism Tourist divided into Standard and Superstandard Classes. Smoking Information Office and Bus and Rail info desk are be- is prohibited on all services and in all stations. Dublin’s two side the second entrance. Car hire desks (06:00 - 23:00) main train stations - Heuston and Connolly - are connected are in the arrivals hall. The Mezzanine Level has a variety by a 14min Luas trip. of restaurants and cafés. Connolly Station C-2, Amiens St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 703 2358. Dublin’s busiest train station is on the north side By boat of the city beside Busáras Central Bus Terminal and Dublin’s Dublin Ferryport (Dublin Port Company) D-2, financial area, the International Financial Services Centre Alexandra Rd, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 887 6000, www. (IFSC). The station is 5mins walk from the city centre. Inter- dublinport.ie. Ireland’s busiest port is the second larg- City trains go to Belfast, Sligo, Dundalk, Drogheda, Arklow, est industrial estate in the country and employs 4000 Maynooth, Longford and Rosslare Europort. The DART train people. There are up to 18 daily sailings to the UK and runs to the affluent seaside villages of Malahide and Howth the continent, and Dublin-bound cruise ships also use on the north side and the pretty Co. Wicklow beach towns of its terminal. Buses and taxis (difficult to find during busy Bray and Greystones on the south side. The Luas sailing times) provide a regular service to and from the terminates at Connolly Station. port which is just two miles from Dublin city centre. Keep walking on the north side of the River Liffey past the O2 Heuston Station A-2, St. John's Rd, D8, tel. (+353) and you are at the Port area. (0)1 703 3299. InterCity trains run to Cork, Tralee, Limer- ick, Waterford, Ballina, Westport, Galway, Ennis, Kildare and Dun Laoghaire Harbour The Ferry Terminal, Harbour Clonmel. The station is south of the River Liffey at the end Rd, Dun Laoghaire, tel. (+353)(0)1 280 8074, www. of the Quays, 20mins walk from the city centre, 15mins walk dlharbour.ie. Seven miles south of Dublin city is the Victo- from the and 5mins walk from Phoenix rian town of Dun Laoghaire whose man-made 19th century Park. The Luas Red Line connects Connolly Station on the Harbour is the largest in Western Europe. Daily Stena HSS east side and Tallaght on the west side. sailings connect the town with Holyhead in Wales, and buses, taxis and the DART (20mins to Dublin City) provide DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit) www.irishrail.ie/ transport to and from the port. There is a Dublin Tourism home. The iconic green DART commuter trains carry around Information Office in the ferry terminal which is located on 80,000 passengers every day as they traverse the city and the seafront between the east and west piers, the former hug the coastline from Greystones in the South to Malahide of which has two Crimean War cannons. See p.39 for more or Howth in the north. Trains run from c.06:30 - 23:00 - check info. the on-line timetable to avoid disappointment/frustration. Trains operate every 5/10mins during peak times, and there’s an average gap of 20mins during off-peak and 20-30mins on Dublin and Dun Laoghaire ferries Sun and Bank Holidays. Make like a local and buy pre-paid tickets to bag yourself a canny discount. Irish Ferries D-2, Terminal 1, Dublin Ferry- port, tel. (+353)(0)1 855 2222, www.irish- ferries.com. Daily sailings to Holyhead, The Weather

Wales (from 1hr 49mins). 25 80 Isle of Man Steam Packet Company D-2, Termi- 70 nal 1, Dublin Ferryport, tel. 1800 505 505, www. 20 steam-packet.com. Easter - Sept. sailings to Douglas, 60

50 Isle of Man (2hrs 50mins). °C 15 (mm)

ature P&O Irish Sea D-2, Terminal 3, Dublin Ferryport, ll r r 40 tel. (+353)(0)1 876 2345, www.poirishsea.com. 10 Rainfa Daily sailings to Liverpool (7hrs 30mins). Tempe 30 20 Stena D-2, Terminal 2, Dublin Ferryport, tel. 5 (+353)(0)1 204 7777, www.stenaline.ie. Daily 10

sailings to Holyhead, Wales from Dun Laoghaire Har- 0 0 Temperature Rainfall (°C) (mm) bour (1hr 59mins) and Dublin Ferryport (3hrs 15mins). Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Rainfall (mm) Min Temp (°C) Max Temp (°C)

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012 6 GETTING AROUND & BASICS

Toll Roads & Dublin Port Tunnel Driving in Ireland Drivers must carry their drivers licence at all times. Drive on Major motorway construction over the last two decades the left. Traffic coming from the right-hand side has prece- has made road journeys between Dublin and major cities dence on roundabouts (traffic rotaries). It is compulsory to such as Cork (3hrs), Galway (2hrs 20mins) and Belfast wear front and rear seat belts. If renting a car with children (2hrs 15mins) quicker than ever. The small price to pay you must also rent the appropriate seat or cushion for their for this is a network of tolls. The starting point for most age and weight. Children under 12 years are not permitted people leaving Dublin is the M50, which has an electronic in front seats. Speed limits: Motorway 120km/h, national barrier-free system that identifies and charges your car road 100km/h, towing trailers, caravans, etc 80km/h (or automatically as you drive through (payable at any petrol less where signposted). station within 24hrs), but other tolls can be paid in cash at manned booths. We recommend having the exact change ready for a speedy, no-fuss cash drop facility. Border Charges start from €1.80 per car. Check www.nra.ie The island’s only land border, between the Republic of for updates and toll locations. Ireland and Northern Ireland (NI), is 360kms (224m) long and stretches from Lough Foyle in the north-west to Dublin Port Tunnel, D-2, www.dublinporttunnel.ie. Carlingford Lough in the south-east. In common with many This feat of modern-day engineering burrows seven storeys internal EU borders, it is very inconspicuous and open by beneath Dublin city, making your North/South journey a world standards. Drive on the left hand side on both sides lot more swift. Opened in 2007, the 4.5km Tunnel has two of the border but beware of the change in speed limits. In 'one-way' tubes connecting Dublin Port with the M1 and the Ireland it's kilometres per hour (kph) whilst in Northern National Roads network via the M50 at Coolock in around Ireland it is in miles per hour (mph). 10mins. Tolls (€3-10 each way depending on day and time) can be paid to a cashier, at a coin machine or in advance at www.etrip.ie. Before entering remove sunglasses, turn Parking on dipped headlights and check you’ve enough fuel for the On-street parking meters operate a Pay and Display system. full 5.6km journey. Buy your tickets in advanced and display on the windscreen to avoid clamping or a fine. Retain the ticket counterfoil as a reminder of its expiry time. The average cost in the city centre By bus is €2.90/hr, with a max of 3hrs parking in most locations. Machines only accept cash. There are many multi-storey B-2, Head Office, 59 Upper O’Connell St, D1, car parks in the city centre, and most offer a discount on tel. (+353)(0)1 873 4222, www.dublinbus.ie. Dublin Bus overnight parking. Look for the digital signs - updated every serves Dublin city and county, and adjoining areas. Bus routes minute - telling you how many spaces are free. are known by the number on the front of the bus. Check the website’s timetable for local bus routes and times. Buses don’t stop automatically, so put your hand out when you see yours Currency & Banks coming. And buy a prepaid ticket or have exact change ready. Unlike their NI neighbours who still use £Sterling, Ireland is The on-board machine only accepts coins and no change is in the Euro Zone. Bank opening hours are usually Mon, Tues given. Prepaid tickets can be bought in advance, and in bulk, and Fri 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:30 - 16:00 and Thurs 10:00 - as singles, daily, weekly, monthly or annual tickets from Dublin 17:00. Many shops and services now use CHIP & PIN cards. Bus offices or ticket agents across the city. The Airlink shuttle In addition to banks, money can be changed at most Post bus runs between the Airport and the city centre, also stopping Offices, Tourist Offices and hotels. at Heuston, Connolly and Busáras Stations. Customs By Luas A full list of regulations, licences and allowances are available Tel. (+353)(0)1 461 4910, www.Luas.ie. Luas (Irish from: Customs Information Office, New Custom House, for speed) light rail transit system was introduced in Promenade Rd, D3, tel. (+353)( 0)1 877 6222, www. 2004. These sleek, silver trams provide a frequent, fast revenue.ie. and efficient passenger service across two lines and six zones. The Red Line runs from Saggart and Tallaght in the West to Connolly Station and The Point (location Emergency numbers and original title for the O2 arena) in the East. Keep an The main Emergency Services are Police (Gardaí), EMS eye on the destination at the front of the tram as some (Emergency Medical Service) and Ambulance, Fire and terminate at Heuston Station. The is en- Rescue, Marine and Coastal Emergencies and Mountain tirely in the Southside and links St. Stephen’s Green Rescue. Freephone 999 or 112 from a landline or mobile. with Brides Glen. Of the various fare options, visitors will most likely use Single (€1.60-2.90), Return (€3.10-5.20) or unlimited Post travel Flexi Tickets (1 day €6.30, 7 days €23). GPO (General Post Office) B-2, O’Connell St, D1, tel. Tickets can be purchased at platform machines or (+353)(0)1 705 7000, www.anpost.ie. Dublin’s main post (slightly cheaper) a Luas Ticket Outlet. Child’s prices are office is the stand-out architectural and historic landmark significantly cheaper. There’s on-board CCTV and a fine on bustling O’Connell Street. As well as buying stamps and for fare evasion. As most trams have an inspector, it’s sending parcels you can also pay bills, top up your mobile silly to try and get away with not paying. Trams run every phone credit and send or receive money, A small beautifully 9/10mins and 3/6mins at peak times (07:45 - 09:15). designed museum tells the story of the building, the postal Check www.Luas.ie for updates. QOpen 05:30 - 00:30, service and the GPO’s place in 1916. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Sat 06:30 - 00:30, Sun 07:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun and Public Holidays. See Museum listing p.24.

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012 GETTING AROUND & Basics 7

Irish Tourist Assistance Service Symbol key

C-2/3, 6-7 Hanover St. East, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 H Conference facilities W WiFi 6610562, fax (+353)(0)1 661 0452, info@itas. F Fitness centre E Occasional live music ie, www.itas.ie. If you are a tourist and have been a victim of crime, report the incident to the Gardaí (Police) K Restaurant J City centre location and call ITAS who can assist with language difficulties, D Sauna C Swimming pool cancelling credit cards/organising money transfers, con- tacting travel companies in relation to re-issuing stolen L Parking M Luas travel tickets, liaising with embassies for passport/ ID replacement and arranging accommodation, meals and transport in emergencies Q Open Mon-Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun & Public Holidays 12:00 - 18:00. Finding Your Way Around Unlike most European countries, Ireland has no post- codes as such. However, Dublin does have postal Smoking & Alcohol districts numbered D1 - D24. Keep your eyes on street signs and use our handy map and you’ll soon be The legal age for smoking and drinking in the is navigating like a native. 18. In March 2004, Ireland became the first country in Europe to Dublin 1 and 7 are the North City Centre and Dublin introduce a complete ban on smoking in the workplace. Remem- 2 and 8 are the South City Centre. These are the four ber to specify your preference for a smoking or non-smoking main districts you’re likely to visit. As Dublin is quite a room when booking accommodation. It is, unsurprisingly, illegal small city, you can still get to most places on foot so don’t to sell or buy drugs anywhere in the Republic of Ireland. be deterred; although Dublin 6 and 3 look a long way out of the city centre, they’re really only about a 10min walk Tourist Information away. The only exception to this rule is whose official address is Dublin 8, even though it’s on Discover Ireland Centre, B-2, Suffolk St, D2, www. the Northside. Also, Dubliners rarely refer to places as visitdublin.com. Located in a restored former church, take Dublin 2 or Dublin 1, instead writing D2 or D1. a moment to admire the mightily impressive stained glass Another way of traversing the city with ease is to use windows and equally inspiring vaulted ceiling. Tourist info the River Liffey as your divide. Everywhere north of the abounds, and you can also book tours, accommodation and Liffey is referred to as the Northside and all the postal lots of other visitor goodies at the various counters, including numbers are uneven. Cross over the River Liffey and our friends at Visit Ireland Travel. A ground floor shop sells you’ve arrived in the Southside where all postal numbers the usual horde of souvenirs, and an upstairs sandwich bar are even. Hence, simply by where you live, you are either is a great spot to galvanise yourself before joining your fellow a Northsider or a Southsider. sightseers and shoppers. QOpen Mon-Sat 09:00 - 17:30 (19:00 July & Aug), Sun 10:30 - 15:00. Also at Dublin Airport and 14 Upper O’Connell St. Ireland's 2012 Public Holidays

1 Jan: New Year's Day 4 June: Public Holiday 2 Jan: Public Holiday 6 Aug: Public Holiday Follow Dublin In Your Pocket 17 March: St Patrick's Day 29 Oct: Public Holiday 19 March: Public Holiday 25 Dec: Christmas Day on and 9 April: Easter Monday 26 Dec: St Stephen's Day 7 May: Public Holiday

Dublin-Belfast Enterprise Rail Service Service: 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Days of operation: Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Dublin Connolly - Belfast Central Dublin, Connolly Rail Stn 07:35 09:35 11:00 13:20 15:20 16:50 19:00 20:50 Belfast, (NIR) Central Stn 09:45 11:50 13:15 15:35 17:27 18:57 21:15 22:57 Belfast Central - Dublin Connolly Belfast, (NIR) Central Stn 06:50 08:00 10:35 12:35 14:10 16:10 18:10 20:10 Dublin, Connolly Rail Stn 09:04 10:00 12:44 14:44 16:17 18:15 20:15 22:18 Days of operation: Sun Sun Sun Sun Sun Sun Sun Sun Dublin Connolly - Belfast Central Dublin, Connolly Rail Stn 10:00 13:00 16:00 18:00 19:00 Belfast, (NIR) Central Stn 12:16 15:07 18:07 20:07 21:07 Belfast Central - Dublin Connolly Belfast, (NIR) Central Stn 10:00 13:00 15:00 16:00 19:00 Dublin, Connolly Rail Stn 12:13 15:13 17:15 18:15 21:05 Book at www.irishrail.ie for discounted fares (subject to availability).

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012 8 HISTORY

The name Dublin comes from the Gaelic dubh linn or “black to grow, the city endured severe economic difficulties. pool” - where the Poddle stream met the River Liffey to form Destitute victims of the Great Famine poured into Dublin a deep pool at Dublin Castle. The city’s modern name - Baile from 1845-1850. Áth Cliath – means the “town of the ford of the hurdles”. Ireland’s four principal routeways converged at a crossing 1900 – 1923: At the outbreak of WWI, the Irish Republican place made of hurdles of interwoven saplings straddling Brotherhood and the Irish Citizen Army prepared rebellion. the low-tide Liffey. The insurrection began on Easter Monday 1916 and was eventually put down, leaving much of the city centre 837 AD – 917 AD: In 837, sixty Viking longships attacked around the General Post Office reduced to rubble. During churches round the Poddle and Liffey estuary, and the the War of Independence, beginning in 1919, much invaders made a permanent settlement in 841. guerrilla fighting took place in the streets, and in May 1921 the Irish Republican Army burned the Custom House. 917 – 1014: Dublin was the Viking world’s largest city and The 1921 Anglo-Irish Treaty made Dublin the capital traded from Iceland to Constantinople. The first genuine of the Irish Free State. Disagreement over the terms ruler of all Ireland - High King, Brian Boru - was rebelled of the Treaty resulted in civil war which began when Free against by Dublin Vikings and the Irish. With the aid State troops bombarded the Four Courts and buildings in of Vikings, Brian crushed his foes, then was himself slain, in O’Connell Street. The anti-Treaty IRA called a truce in the an epic battle at Clontarf in 1014. spring of 1923.

1014 – 1170: The Vikings adopted Christianity and founded 1923 – 1965: Dublin remained an elegant but somewhat Christ Church Cathedral. In 1169, the deposed Irish impoverished city - the capital of a state which, in stages, King MacMurrough sought help from south-west Wales severed its last links with the British Empire in the 1930s Normans who, under their leader Richard FitzGilbert de Clare and 1940s and became a republic in 1949. Ireland’s first (Strongbow), seized Dublin. (or Prime Minister) Eamon de Valera kept the state - renamed Éire in 1937 - out of WW2. 1171 – 1399: In 1171 Henry II landed with a great army, and made Dublin the capital of the Normans’ Irish territory 1965 – 1991: A long era of peace, with trade agreements and the heart of the Norman and English colony. Christ with Britain in 1965 and the joining of the Common Market Church was rebuilt in the Gothic style and work began on in 1973 heralding spectacular – if uneven – city growth. In St Patrick’s Cathedral. In 1317 Scottish King Robert 1963, four months before his assassination, President the Bruce and brother Edward failed to take the city, but Kennedy visited Ireland. In 1979 Pope John Paul ll - the much destruction ensued. In 1348 the city was gripped by first reigning Pope to visit Ireland - celebrated mass in front the Black Death. of one million people at Phoenix Park. In 1985 the Irish and British governments signed the Anglo-Irish Agreement 1399 – 1603: English royal control of Ireland shrank during giving the Republic of Ireland a consultative role in the NI the 14th and 15th Centuries to coastal towns and an area government. In 1988 Dublin celebrated its Millennium and round Dublin known as the Pale. From 1485-1603 the became European Capital of Culture in 1991. city played a crucial role when Tudor monarchs undertook a reconquest. In 1603 The Earl of Tyrone submitted and, 1990s-2000: From the 1990s, the Celtic Tiger economy for the first time, the Crown won control of the entire island. boomed and many ex-pats – or Irish Diaspora – returned home. House prices vied with those in London, and 1603 – 1660: English monarchs decided Ireland should international music success, from Eurovision to U2, further become Protestant. Christ Church and St Patrick’s were cemented Ireland’s new culture of cool. In 1990 Mary taken over and restored. English Civil War broke out in 1642 Robinson became the first female President of Ireland. The and many citizens joined the Gaelic Irish rebellion which had feel-good factor spread into sport; cyclist Stephen Roche begun the year before. Eventually the forces of Parliament won the 1987 Tour De France, Ireland beat Italy in the prevailed, and defeated royalists and the Irish besieged 1994 US World Cup Finals and runner Sonia O’Sullivan Dublin at Rathmines in 1649. Oliver Cromwell landed thirteen won World Championship gold in 1995 and Olympic days later to begin the relentless subjugation of the country silver in 2000.

1660 – 1691: A remarkable period of recovery began and, 2000s: In 2002 the Euro replaces the Punt as Ireland’s between 1610-1683, the population rose from 26,000 to currency. In 2008 Ireland becomes the first EU state to 58,000. Instability returned when James II, chased from enter recession. On 28 Nov 2010 Ireland is forced to accept England, arrived in Ireland via France in 1689. He was given an €85billion EU bailout to prop up its decimated banking an enthusiastic reception in Dublin but, after defeat by system. On Fri 25 Feb 2011, the Fianna Fáil party suffers William of Orange at the Boyne in 1690, returned to France. the worst General Election defeat of a sitting government since the Irish state's 1921 foundation. Fine Gael leader 1691 – 1798: A long peace followed William III’s victory, Enda Kenny becomes Taoiseach in a coalition with the and Dublin became the British Empire’s second largest city. Labour Party. In May 2011 The Queen is the first British By the middle of the 18th Century, the population was close monarch to visit Ireland since it became a Republic. US to 130,000. A magnificent new parliament house (now the President Obama follows with a whirlwind visit to Dublin and Bank of Ireland) was built in 1728 and a splendid gateway his ancestral home of Moneygall, Co. Offaly. In Oct 2011 and façade for Trinity College completed in 1759 – making Michael D. Higgins is elected the 9th President of Ireland. College Green the social hub of Dublin.

1798 – 1900: Rebellion by the United Irishmen in 1798. The authorities kept the insurrection out of Dublin but the Follow Dublin In Your Pocket revolt convinced Westminster to close the Dublin Parliament, and the 1801 Act of Union saw Ireland ruled from London. on and The aristocracy slowly deserted and, while it continued

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012 Culture & Events 9

Theatres & Concert venues April & May Events Abbey Theatre C-2, 26 Lower Abbey St, D1, tel. (+353) (0)1 878 7222, www.abbeytheatre.ie. Dating back to April 1904, Ireland’s National Theatre was reopened by President Sun 1 - Mon 30: One City, One Book Eamon De Valera at its current site over six decades later. Its www.dublinonecityonebook.ie remit has always been to promote Irish culture and plays along- Dublin has taken the mantle of UNESCO City of Literature side international works, and indeed one of its founders was by the horns and this year's initiative to encourage every WB Yeats. Many more acclaimed Irish playwrights have been person in the city to read the same book has, fittingly, involved with the theatre, including George Bernard Shaw, JM chosen James Joyce's Dubliners - a book the author Synge (whose work The Playboy of the Western World invoked wrote to 'betray the soul of the city'. Readings, lectures, nationalistic riots in 1907), O’Casey, Wilde, Friel and Heaney. talks, tours, exhibitions, screenings and live performanc- The theatre’s fortunes have ebbed and flowed over the years, es will delight Joycean scholars and newcomers. Many but a recent revamp and state subsidy have ensured its contin- events are free but ticketed, so booking is recommended. ued presence at the heart of Dublin’s theatreland. The Abbey is four storeys high and seats 492 theatregoers. It has two Fri 20 - Sun 22: Franco-Irish Literary Festival auditoriums and a studio space, The Peacock Theatre, which www.francoirishliteraryfestival.com seats 157 and is dedicated to new plays and contemporary Two cultures, two countries, one great festival. The classic drama. 13th annual celebration of French and Irish literature has 'pleasure' as its theme, and with author interviews, Gaiety Theatre B-2, South King St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 readings, discussions and a whole load of café culture on 679 5622, www.gaietytheatre.ie. The Grand Old Lady the programme there is plenty to please. Authors from opened in 1871 and is Dublin’s longest-established theatre both countries will converge on the city for this unique in continuous production. Many greats have graced its stage three-day event, most notably the great Seamus Heaney. from Pavlova to Pavarotti, Julie Andrews to Jack Benny - an Trés bon! Events are free but ticketed. indication of its eclectic and music-based programme. In 1971 an audience of 400m watched the Eurovision Song Contest May transmitted live from its auditorium - the first Eurovision to be Mon 7 - Sun 20: Dublin Gay Theatre Festival held in Ireland marked RTE’s earliest colour transmission of www.gaytheatre.ie an indoor event. Nine years in and this celebration of gay and lesbian the- atre will showcase performances across nine venues in Gate Theatre B-2, 1 Cavendish Row, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 the city centre. As well as Irish acts, the UK, Australia, Ger- 874 4085, www.gate-theatre.ie. Although the building is many, Canada and South Africa will also be represented over 200 years old, the theatre was only founded here in 1928. at what is one of the most fun and diverse festivals on In 1991 The Gate was the world’s first theatre to showcase all the cultural scene. Far from exclusive, the programme wel- Beckett’s nineteen stage plays. It has also staged four Harold comes audiences of all ages and sexual identities for this Pinter festivals and premiered many of Brian Friel’s plays over great mix of drama, comedy, cabaret, theatre and music. the past 40 years. As this was not a custom-built theatre, de- livered sets have to be cut up and reassembled inside. To bring Fri 11 - Sun 20: Dublin Dance Festival it into the next century, over €6m is being spent on a new wing. www.dublindancefestival.ie The premier dance event on the Irish arts calendar, this Grand Canal Theatre C-2, Grand Canal Square, Dock- year's themeless programme promises to simply reveal lands, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 7999, www.grandcanal- through dance what it means to be alive. Some 17 coun- theatre.ie. Ireland’s latest purpose-built cultural epicentre has tries will be represented as Dublin takes centre stage for a capacity of over 2000. It stages musicals, dance, opera and two weeks and shows us how to move. As well as popular family shows, with many West End and Broadway productions favourites and world premieres on stage, some events coming here for the first time. Set in the trendy docklands, it’s will also be taking to the streets to wow unsuspecting easily accessible for patrons, and its super chic design encour- crowds and curious passers-by. ages theatregoers to don those gladrags and embrace theatre as it should be.. a grand night out. Thur 24 - Sun 27: Dublin City Soul Festival www.dublincitysoulfestival.ie RDS (Royal Dublin Society) Ballsbridge, D4, tel. Now in its sixth year, this festival is a celebration of (+353)(0)1 668 0866, www.rds.ie. Over the years what is best about Ireland and the Irish - our welcom- this colossus of a venue has staged many stellar perfor- ing hospitality and friendliness. Live music, restaurant mances with U2, Paul McCartney, Pavarotti, Michael Flatley and music trails, visual art displays and a free family and two Eurovision Song Contests wowing the crowds. barbecue picnic in the heart of the city, not to mention The RDS is spread across four facilities: the Concert a Peace Parade, make this a long weekend not to miss. Hall (cap. 900), Main Hall (3000-5000), Simmonscourt Most events are free but you can make a donation to the Pavilion (up to 7000) and RDS Stadium (over 35,000). It Musical Youth Foundation to keep this great programme also regularly hosts shows, conferences and sporting going for years to come. events.

The O2 D-2, East Link Bridge, North Wall Quay, D1, Olympia Theatre B-2, 72 Dame St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 tel. (+353)(0)1 676 6170, www.theo2.ie. Takin g 679 3323, www.olympia.ie. Built in 1879, this famous venue up a corner in Dublin’s central docklands, the O2 is the was demolished and rebuilt several years later and is now long-overdue replacement to The Point Depot. Now with a one of the city’s most atmospheric entertainment meccas. capacity of 12,000 and what is described as “world class” On Dame Street, opposite Dublin Castle, it is currently owned acoustics, the Dublin O2 is already promising to be one of by promoters MCD and plays host to concerts, comedians the best live music venues in Europe (as with its London and popular productions. Its red metal and glass façade is a equivalent). well-known city landmark where variety is truly the spice of life.

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012 10 SPORT Where to stay

Sports Stadiums Aviva Stadium F-1, Lansdowne Rd, Ballsbridge, D4, MCharlemont, tel. (+353)(0)1 238 2300, www.aviv- astadium.ie. Dublin’s latest sporting colossus replaced Lansdowne Road - the original home of Irish international rugby and football. The undulating arena holds 50,000 spec- tators and, with Ireland’s reputation for rainy weather, it’s good to know the tiered seating is covered with that curved roof. The stadium also hosts music concerts, and you can get a sense of what it feels like to be a player with a behind the scenes tour. Q Tours: Mon - Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Adult €10, conc. €7, child €5, U3 free, Family €25.

31st Deep RiverRock Belfast Marathon

Croke Park C-1, New Cusack Stand, Croke Park, St. Joseph’s Ave, D3, tel. (+353)(0)1 819 2323, www. crokepark.ie/gaa-museum. Home to the fast and furious Gaelic games of Football, Hurling, Camogie and Handball, Croke Park is one of the world’s most spectacular stadi- ums and the country’s largest, with a capacity of 82,300. Headquarters of the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA), the venue is steeped in history and holds a pivotal place in Irish nationalism. The first Special Olympics to be held outside the USA were staged at 'Croker', as locals call it. Muhammad Ali fought here, and U2, Robbie Williams and Take That have performed in front of thousands. Croke has conference facilities, a GAA Museum showcasing the history of the sport and stadium, and regular daily stadium tours (except match days). The stadium is a 20min north- east walk from O'Connell Street.QMon-Sat 09:30 - 17:00, Sun 11:30 - 17:00. Museum & Stadium Tour: €12, U12 €8, conc. €9, (2+2) €32, U5 free. Museum only, match day and group rates also available. On Bank Holiday Mon 7 May, an estimated 20,000+ runners will take part in the 2012 Deep RiverRock Belfast City Marathon. The route begins at the City Irish National Hunt Festival Hall at 09:00, ends at Ormeau Park and takes in every part of the city, with thousands of spectators lining Tue 24 - Sat 28 April the streets to cheer on the runners. And this year, N. Punchestown Racecourse, Naas, Co Kildare Ireland's largest sporting participatory event will in- Held in Co. Kildare, just outside Dublin, this highlight clude some extra goodies for runners and spectators. of the Irish sporting calendar is as much a social The first male and female athlete to break the cur- gathering - blending music, family fun, fashion shows rent records set by Jacob KipKorir Cheshire last year and best-dressed competitions - as it is a race meet- (2:14:56) and Marashet Jumma in 2008 (2:39:22) will ing. It represents the grand finale of the horse racing receive a 'roll-over' bonus of £1000. An International season, but the fantastic atmosphere means you Expo will be held in the City Hall with more exhibitions don't necesarily have to put a bet on, or even face than ever before. And, on the race day itself, Ormeau towards the track, to have a great day out. General Park will host a family fun day with bands, food and admission €10. For the runners and riders gallop to drink and a funfair to celebrate all finishing athletes. www.punchestown.com. As well as experiencing the euphoria at completing the 26+mile circuit, participants can also turn their accomplishment into money for charity. Choose your own charity or donate your winnings to 2012’s nomi- nated charity - the Northern Ireland Children’s Hospice. inyourpocket.com Whether a dedicated athlete or marathon rookie, now’s the time to turn your running dreams into reality. You have between now and Fri 20 April to enter at twitter.com/inyourpocket www.belfastcitymarathon.com or call the hotline (+44) (0)28 9060 5933. And visit the website for facebook.com/inyourpocket lots more info, including a route map, training plans, event updates and details on how to volunteer on the day. youtube.com/inyourpocket

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012 Jurys_Dublin_hotels_124x41_landscape_aw.pdfWhere 1 01/11/2011 to 11:52 stay 11

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Hotels are experiencing a downturn in occupancy whic-h has Shelbourne Renaissance Hotel B-2, 27 St. Stephen’s resulted in big discounts available on-line and across a wide Green, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 663 4500, reservations@ range of accommodation providers. Check out our website renaissanceshotels.com, www.marriott.com. Immerse and iPhone App for lots more hotels and last minute savings yourself in what many people consider to be the Dublin via booking.com. Star ratings reflect those given by Fáilte hotel. It’s certainly a city landmark of the finest order, with Ireland - the Irish Tourist Board. a tip-top location and history-laden ambience. Built in 1824, room 112 - The Constitution Room - is where the 1922 Irish Constitution was drafted. Many of the suites are named after 5 Star previous guests - most notably Princess Grace, and a recent Conrad Hilton C-3, Earlsfort Terrace, D2, tel. (+353) restoration has brought this grand old lady back to her original (0)1 602 8900, [email protected], www.conrad- splendour. Real log fires burn contentedly in the grates as you dublin.com. Located opposite the National Concert Hall, enjoy a cocktail in No. 27 Bar and Lounge or pint of Guinness this classic contemporary hotel is a stone’s throw from St. in the famous, traditional Horseshoe Bar. Afternoon tea in the Stephen’s Green and many of Dublin’s main attractions. Lord Mayor’s Lounge is a must if you want to emmerse yourself Calming muted tones dominate the bright rooms, and the in a recaptured era of high society . For all its Presidential Suite is pure indulgence. Large conferencing opulence, the Shelbourne is always welcoming and never facilities and WiFi access throughout ensure all your needs aloof. Visit, stay, enjoy. Q265 rooms (single €189 - €269, are taken care of. Relax and unwind at the hotel cocktail double €189 - €279, suite €349 - €2500). JHLKW bar - and Alex restaurant specialising in seafood - on the hhhhh ground floor. During summer, the traditional Alfie Burn’s Irish bar lays on open-air BBQs that are very popular with locals and guests. Q192 rooms. (single/double €169-240, suite Upmarket €219-319). JH6FLKW hhhhh Best Western Premier Academy Plaza Hotel C-2, Find- later Place, Off Upr O’Connell St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 878 Four Seasons Hotel D-3, Simmonscourt Rd, D4, tel. 0666, [email protected], www.academyplazaho- (+353)(0)1 665 4000, reservations.Dublin@fourseasons. tel.ie. This newly rebuilt hotel is smart, inviting and slap bang in com, www.fourseasons.com/dublin. In the leafy Embassy- the city centre. All rooms have distinctive red and black checked strewn suburb of Ballsbridge, this six storey red-brick hotel sits carpets, soft cream walls, and crisp linens on the super-comfort majestically in the grounds of the Royal Dublin Society. The beds, ensuring a good night’s sleep is on the cards. The modern Four Seasons is a stalwart of Dublin society and, as befits its bar and two restaurants - Oscars for trad and contemporary and stature, plays host to numerous charity balls. The ICE bar is for Abacus for elegant oriental dining - give this three star a culinary sipping champagne and cocktails, while Seasons Restaurant edge. Complimentary WiFi, discount guest parking, a gym and is the stomping ground of Dublin’s power players. Indeed, games room keep budgets in tact and boredom at bay. Golfing you could say the salubrious nature of the neighbourhood is services can be booked for business groups or individuals who reflected in the clientele. Rooms and suites are equally elegant, fancy getting tee’d off. The staff are very helpful and the location and the Spa is a tranquil oasis in which to repose and reflect on top notch... definitely one to check out. Breakfast €12. Q285 your fabulous surroundings. Q197 rooms. (single €225-500, rooms. (single €79-€225, double €89-249, triple €109-279, quad suite €400-2600). H6FKDCW hhhhh €159-319, suite €299-349). JHFKW hhh

Merrion Hotel C-3, Upper Merrion St, D2, tel. (+353 )(0)1 Croke Park Hotel C-1, Jones’s Rd, D3, tel. (+353)(0)1 603 0600, [email protected], www.merrionhotel. 871 4444, www.doylecollection.com. Facing onto Croke Park com. Created from four Grade A listed Georgian Houses, one Stadium, this big, new pristine hotel is greared up for business being the Duke of Wellington’s birthplace, this beautifully restored execs, but is also the place to be on match day as you soak up building boasts bright, antique-filled rooms and a modern wing the excitement and anticipation in the Sideline Bar and Bistro. overlooking a private garden. If staying here, invest in the rooms And, as it’s just 10mins walk from O’Connell St, all the major at- facing onto the Dáil (Irish Houses of Parliament). A two star Mi- tractions are reassuringly convenient. Self-styled Rejuvenate chelin restaurant, trompe l’oile swiming pool and two reception beds and duck down duvets soothe you into a blissful slumber rooms with fantastic sofas in which to sit and enjoy a glass of and - wait for it ladies - skirt hangers ensure your power suits stay wine, makes The Merrion a particularly romantic idyll. And con- crease-free. Bathrooms have separate baths and showers, and noisseurs will be pleased to learn that a French vineyard makes underfloor heating to keep toes toasty warm - nice touch. With wine exclusively for the hotel, and the extensive art collection WiFi in the public areas and executive rooms, and free car parking is privately owned by one of the three owners. Q142 rooms. for all guests, this is one upmarket overnight option well worth (single €460, double €480, suite €960-3000). JHFLK� a peep. Q232 rooms (single/double €85-309, triple €95-319, DCW hhhhh suite €299-650). HFKW hhhh

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012 12 Where to stay

to enjoy an afternoon coffee or evening cocktails. And the Irish Landmark Trust Halo restaurant - with its own entrance - is full of antiques and opens onto the Bohemian Courtyard. You feel cool just Fancy overnighting in hanging out here. Q138 rooms (single €135-195, double an Irish gate lodge, €135-415, suite €195 -2000). JHKW hhhh castle or lighthouse? These and many more unique and history- Mid-Range steeped properties Camden Court Hotel B-3, Lwr Camden St, D2, tel. are among the Irish (+353)(0)1 475 9666, sales@camdencourthotel. Landmark Trust's com, www.camdencourthotel.com. MLuas Harcourt distinct portfolio of St. Rest your weary limbs at this well-known city centre ho- sixteen holiday lets. tel. Only 5mins from St. Stephens Green, and 30secs from Now in its 20th year, the Trust takes abandoned and the Luas, there’s no doubting Camden Court’s closeness crumbling buildings from across the island of Ireland - to every city centre whim (but not too close to Temple Bar many of national significance - and returns them to their if you crave some quiet). The hotel has a full leisure centre former glory for everyone to enjoy. which includes a 16m pool, gym, sauna and steamroom. These meticulously renovated properties range from Residents car parking is a definite bonus for such a great Drum Gatelodge on Northern Ireland's stunning north location. Feast at The Iveagh restaurant, then treat your- Antrim Coast to Galley Head Lightkeeper's House self to a cocktail or two at C Central bar before heading overlooking Co. Cork's brooding coastline. ‘home’ to your refurbished contemporary bedroom. Job’s Merrion Mews provides quirky city centre accommo- a good ‘un. Q246 rooms (singles from €75, doubles from dation right at the heart of this gentrified Dublin green. €85). Breakfast incl. JHFKDCW hhh And No. 25 Eustace Street (pic) in the city's vibrant Temple Bar offers a tranquil Georgian haven a world Clarion Hotel Dublin IFSC C-2, International Financial away from the melee. Services Centre (IFSC), D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 433 8800, Authentically decorated in period detail, these retreats [email protected], www.clarionhotelifsc.ie. offer beautiful escape in enchanting settings. All proper- MLuas . Light oak furnishings and neutral tones ties sleep from two to ten people, so you can opt for a create a calming place to stay and sleep. Especially convenient romantic weekend bolthole to a fun-filled get together for execs frequenting the Financial Services Centre... just stroll with family and friends. out the door and you’re there. Seal that deal by booking the And by staying at one of these properties, not only fabulously cool penthouse for that important face-to-face - it are you having a fantastic and memorable holiday in a could be the best investment you’ll ever make. And the adjacent magical setting, but you're also helping preserve more one and two bedroom Clarion Quay Apartments allow you to incredible buildings for future visitors to enjoy. create a more homely city base. The rooms at the front have Find out more about the work of the Irish Landmark Trust great views along the River Liffey while at the all new Santé - including buildings currently under renovation - and book Médispa all your worries are massaged away. Q180 rooms your dream property by visiting www.irishlandmark. (single €135-295, double €120-295, suite €195-210, apart- com or tel. (+353)(0)1 670 4733. ment: €135-200). JHFKDCW hhhh

Jurys Inn Christchurch B-2, Christchurch Place, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 454 0000, jurysinnchristchurch@ Boutique jurysinns.com, www.jurysinns.com. Nestled between Fitzwilliam Hotel B-2, St. Stephens Green, D2, tel. two major historic tourist attractions - Christ Church and St. (+353)(0)1 478 7000, [email protected], Patrick’s Cathedrals - this particular Jurys Inn is extremely www.fitzwilliamhotel.com. Designed by Sir Terence well placed for all the major city sights, shops and nightlife. Conran in his famous sleek style, this smart hotel is lo- The hotel recently underwent a full refurbishment, and the cated at the top of Grafton Street, opposite St Stephen’s budget-conscious among you will appreciate rooms that Green. Its two star Michelin restaurant Thornton’s over- can accommodate up to three adults, or two adults and two looks the Green, making for a luxurious dining experience. children U10. The adjoining multi-storey car park is handy for Downstairs the bar has relaxed chairs and some very drivers, though charges do apply. Q182 rooms (182 Total comfy booths... great for those evenings when you feel rooms ). Rooms from €80. JLKW hhh like a bit of ‘me-time’. The stylish bedrooms come with fresh fowers, fab views and subtle lighting. From its quiet Jurys Inn Custom House C-2, Custom House Quay, library in the lobby to Ireland’s largest roof garden, this is D1, MLUAS Busáras, tel. (+353)(0)1 854 1500, http:// one hotel where you can escape the city on your doorstep. dublinhotels.jurysinns.com/jurysinn_customhouse. Q139 rooms (double €180-€380, suite €240-€480). Whether you’re arriving by car via the Dublin Port Tunnel, off JHFLKW hhhhh the train from Connolly Station or by bus from Busáras, this Docklands hotel is just about the handiest in town. It’s walk- Morrison Hotel B-2, Ormond Quay, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 able from the last two, and, if you’re feeling lazy, close to a 887 2400, [email protected], www.morrisonhotel. LUAS stop for seamless city centre jaunts. The sparkly new ie. MMetro Jervis. Originally designed by John Rocha, Dublin Convention Centre, O2 Arena and Grand Canal Theatre and opened in 1999 to great acclaim, the Irish style guru are also within very easy walking distance. Inside, many rooms used Feng Shui to create the rooms. It was one of the first overlook the River Liffey, Jeanie Johnston Famine Ship and hotels in Dublin to epitomise modern sleek styling. And now, harp-like Samuel Beckett Bridge. And their contemporary after a major extension adding 48 rooms ans a courtyard, decor, with cosy chairs and bed throws exude a homely air. the hotel is, more than ever, the epitome of urban chic. For The foyer-level continues the contemporary theme with its pure bedroom indulgence, dock your iPod, slip into the fluffy bar, cafe and restaurant. Payable breakfasts, wifi and nearby bathrobe and drape yourself across the hand-painted Rocha parking keep you in control of the cost. Q 239 rooms (rooms throw. For dining and drinking, the Café Bar is a great place from €80). JHKW

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012 Where to stay 13

Budget Airport Castle Hotel B-1, 2-4 Great Denmark St, D1, tel. (+353) Premier Inn Airside Retail Park, Swords, Co. Dublin, tel. (0)1 874 6949, [email protected], www.castle-hotel. (+353)(0)1 895 7777, www.premierinn.com. Clean lines ie. This Georgian house hotel exudes all the elegance of its set the tone for this great value hotel chain. Rooms have the era yet is imminently affordable. Just 2mins from O’Connell expected array of extras including WiFi (chargeable), modem St and opposite the Garden of Remembrance, the location is point, satellite TV and hairdryers. King size beds with top- top notch and history-steeped. Within walking distance you’ll notch pillows and duvets, coupled with the hotel chain’s Good also find Dublin’s main shopping district, Temple Bar, Croke Night Guarantee, mean you won’t need to worry about nearby Park, and cultural heavyweights the Abbey and Gate theatres, aircraft disturbing your slumber. Parking is free for guests, and Municipal Art Gallery, and James Joyce a free airport shuttle bus will ensure you arrive on time for Cultural Centre. All bedrooms are individually decorated and your flight. Q Rooms from €70. Breakfast: Full Irish €11.95. maintain those original Georgian features including crystal Continental €7.75. HLKW chandeliers, plasterwork, magnificent antique mirrors and beautiful marble fireplaces. Large family rooms can accom- Radisson BLU Hotel Dublin Airport Dublin Airport, modate up to two adults and three children. And the hotel’s Co. Dublin, tel. (+353)(0)1 844 6000, info.airport. family-friendly facilities extend to special menus for children, [email protected], www.radissonblu.ie/hotel- while you can enjoy the local produce at the hotel bar and res- dublinairport. Just at the Airport roundabout, you can’t get taurant where there’s traditional Irish music every weekend. any closer to the terminals without boarding a plane. Nearby Q130 rooms (single €59, double €84). Incl. breakfast. Free complimentary spa facilities, on-site business center with 27 WiFi. Parking chargeable. JHLKW hhh meeting rooms, trad Irish pub, gourmet restaurant and express check-out keep you refreshed, refuelled and ready for your Dub- Maldron Hotel Smithfield B-2, Smithfield Plaza, D7, lin adventure. And when it’s time to depart, the free 24hr shuttle tel. (+353)(0)1 485 0900, info.smithfield@maldronho- bus will whisk you to your terminal of choice... keep an eye on tels.com, www.maldronhotels.com. MLuas Smithfield. lobby TV screens for latest flight schedules. Q229 rooms Clean lines and contemporary design define this bright and (standard from €89, business class from €129, jr suite from contemporary purpose-built hotel located behind The Old €149, executive suites €250). HFLKDCW hhhh Jameson Distillery. Some rooms, including seven junior suites, have private balconies, offering panoramic views of the city and all rooms have power showers, coffee maker Generator Hostel and free WiFi... perfect for the exec on the move. It’s a 5min walk to major shopping areas and tourist attractions. Generator Hostel B-2, Smithfield Square, D7, With the Luas just moments away access to the O2, Grand tel. (+353)(0)1 901 0222, dublin@generatorhos- Canal Theatre and IFSC. Q92 rooms (room only from €69). tels.com, http://generatorhostels.com/. MLuas JHLKW hhh Smithfield. This European hostelling giant has arrived in Dublin - and conveniently landed right beside the Old North Star Hotel and Suites C-2, Amiens St, D1, tel. Jameson Distillery and the Smithfield Luas stop. Which (+353)(0)1 836 3136, [email protected], means young budget travellers get fantastic and afford- www.northstarhotel.ie. Mentioned in James Joyce’s epic able accommodation in a great walk-to-the-city location. Ulysses, this city centre hotel is directly opposite Connolly Exposed brick walls, city-inspired graffiti art, Jameson Station and just 5mins walk from O’Connell St. The hotel whiskey bottle chandeliers and even a pole dancing area itself consists of a Georgian listed building (1810) and new, feature in the stylishly spacious, industrial-chic foyer. modern building. It recently completed an expansion and now Rooms range from 8-bed dorms to a large VIP suite with features 175 rooms - offiering 3* standard rooms and the jacuzzi - hello! And nestling in between are en-suite twins more luxurious Premier Club rooms and suites. A restaurant, and 4-8-bed private rooms, female only dorms and 4-6- pub, residents lounge, Premier Club lounge, gym and sauna bed dorms. All have storage lockers and funky bespoke complete a line-up that pitches way above its three star artwork, and en-suites get you top notch shower and status. Check out the numerous theatre, sports and seasonal bathroom facilities. A lively bar with nightly entertainment packages and bag yourself a bargain break. Q175 rooms and events, chill-out area and restaurant re-enforce the (rooms from €55-200). JHFEKDW hhh hostel’s social mantra. And free WiFi in social areas and computers in the net lounge keep you connected with Hostels all those new-found friends. A laundry service, luggage room, 24hr access secure key card system and free walk- Dublin Hostelling International (An Óige) C-1, 61 ing tours make this low-cost overnight option pretty hard Mountjoy St, D7, tel. (+353)(0)1 830 1766, mailbox@ to beat. Individual and group travellers are all welcome. anoige.ie, www.anoige.ie. Reminders of this building’s Q 500+ beds. Beds from €11. HEKW previous incarnation await at every turn. Once a convent and school, if you want to call home you do it - appropriately - from the confessional booth. And breakfast is served in the former chapel. An Óige is Irish for ‘youth’, but all ages can avail of this centrally-located hostel which is the city’s only member of Hostelling International. Facilities include en-suite private rooms, dorms, an outside garden with seating and a children’s play area. The games room and book exchange feed the grey matter, and dinner and lunch can be served on a request basis for group bookings. Complimentary breakfast available. Q297 rooms (private per room: single €28-36, twin/double €48-50.50, triple - €66-75, 4-bed €84-97.50, dorms per person: 6-bed €16.50-21.50, 8-bed €14-20, 10- bed €13-19. JLKW

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012 14 Where to eat

Yamamori Noodles B-2, 71-72 South Great George’s Restaurant Price Key St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 475 5001, www.yamamori- noodles.ie. This renowned restaurant with its bold back € A really nice sandwich and coffee should be no and red exterior features an extensive menu of fabulous, more than €7-10 fresh Japanese food. Small and large groups gravitate to its €€ A cheap but tasty main course should be around long benches and tables while very efficient and beautifully €11-17 dressed staff serve up those exotic eats. The vegetarian €€€ Standard prices in most restaurants are mains menu is just as fulfilling, with plenty of tofu alternatives. €18-27 Extremely popular with locals we recommend booking in €€€€ A pricey but good restaurant will have mains advance. A real gem... this is sushi and fun all rolled into at €28-35 one (I thank you). If you can’t get a seat here, the (slightly) €€€€€ An expensive restaurant will be flying to the skies smaller Yamamori Café is directly across the street, serving with €35 and over. a shorter but no less delicious choice of bites - the sweet potato chips are outstanding. Q Sun - Thur 12:00 - 10:30, Asian Fri - Sat 12;00 - 23;30. Sushi €, Dinner €€. YJ Café Mao B-2, 2-3 Chatham Row, D2, MLuas St Ste- phen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 4899, www.cafemao. Burgers & Pizzas com. Bright and cheery, this is one of the most popular Elephant & Castle B-2, 18 Temple Bar, D2, tel. (+353) Asian Fusion venues in Dublin. The white walls - adorned (0)1 679 3121, www.elephantandcastle.ie. Ever since with photos of Chairman Mao in an Andy Warhol vein - and this informal restaurant opened its doors way back in 1989, primary coloured seats give it a real feel-good factor. As it is queues of diners have descended every night. They come constantly busy, and you can’t book a table in advance, try to from miles around to savour the spicy chicken wings - a get there before the crowds. And, with a new coeliac menu, Dublin legend. The burger menu is as big as the Spire and Mao has yet again increased its popularity. For those of you the come hither desserts are just too tempting to refuse. on a diet, the menu kindly notes what dishes are low in fat so Their brunch is great, too, so if you’re in the area, call by and no need to fret while munching on a tasty morsel. The Five savour its scrummy delights. Q Mon - Fri 18:00 - 23:30, Spice Chicken is one of the favourites. Q Mon - Tue 12:00 - Sat - Sun 10:30 - 23:30. €€. J 21:30, Wed - Sat 12:00 - 21:30, Sun 13:30 - 21:00. €€€. J Hard Rock Café B-2, 12 Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Saba B-2, 26-28 Clarendon St, D2, MLuas St Stephen’s D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 7777, www.hardrock.com. Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 2000, www.sabadublin.com. The Hard Rock phenomenon arrived in the city in 2004, Meaning “Happy Meeting Place” in Thai, Saba is an award- and this spacious diner-style cafe - with room for 350 rock winning restaurant (Best Service Award, Cocktail Bar of the rubberneckers - pays homage to Ireland’s, and the world’s, Year, Most Stylish Restaurant) that’s always packed with a rich musical heritage. Bono’s shades and hand-written lyr- fun clientele. Long benches and enormous picture windows ics take centre stage in the U2 section, while a shirt worn open on a summer’s evening, lending an air of downtown NYC. by Elvis shares wall space with Macca’s boots, Madonna’s Stand-out dishes for your humble editor include Black Pepper jacket and, of all things, a rug owned by Jimi Hendrix. In Squid and Yellow Butternut Squash Curry. So popular is Saba between ogling the rock and pop paraphernalia and watch- that they now have a take-away and food store in Rathmines ing music videos on the plasma screens, get stuck into the (see www.sabatogo.com). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue, all-American menu’s smokehouse, burger, hot sandwich Wed, Sun 12:00 - 21:30. €€€. JS and salad selections. Then head to the souvenir shop and bag a ubiquitous HRC Dublin T-shirt to show the folks back Siam Thai B-2, South Andrew St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 home. Look for the big neon guitar shining down on Temple 677 3363, www.siamthai.ie. This contemporary Asian Bar. Q 12:00 - late €€€. J chain is so popular that they’ve sprung up all over the city. The owners have aired away from the clichéd Thai theme TGI Friday’s B-2, St Stephen’s Green, D2, MLuas St and opted for a stylish, streamlined and beautifully-lit interior. Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 1233, www.fri- Subtle spotlit Asian artefacts provide the main clue to its days.ie. What began in New York in 1965 has now become cuisine’s origins. The staff are mostly Thai and very courte- a global brand - and its Dublin restaurant a landmark on the ous, and the food is consistently top notch. No monosodium Green. The dazzling array of burgers, salads, fajitas, pasta, glutamate is used in any of their recipes, and starch and seafood - and over 100 cocktails - relentlessly satisfy new flour are kept to a minimum too, so you don’t have to worry and returning fans. The Jack Daniel’s grill features a feast of about an expanding waistline during dinner. Q Mon - Thur fodder laced with the famous whiskey glaze. And little ones 12:00 - 22:30, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun feeling a bit peckish can avail of the organic baby food which 16:00 - 22:30. €€€. JK is free when you dine. Also at Blanchardstown Shopping Centre, tel: 822 5990; Blackrock, tel:288 5155; Dundrum Wagamama B-2, South King St, D2, MLuas St Town Centre tel: 298 7299. Q 12:00 - 23:00 €€€. J Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 2152, www. wagamama.ie. Visitors from Britain will instantly recognise this renowned noodle franchise. Designed in the style of a Contemporary Japanese ramen bar, the unintimidating menu is very easy Crackbird B-2, 60 Dame Street, D2. One of the best to read, with detailed descriptions of each dish printed on pop-up-restaurants-turned-permanent fixtures, this place placemats that are then marked with your order. Its long is the home of addictive chicken - hence the name. If you benches mean the atmosphere is lively and fun - great for love fried chicken and all the sides that go with it, this is groups, if not romantic dinners a deux - but be warned... they for you. It’s so popular there is no phone number to book tend to bring each dish when it’s ready rather than in any par- with, or a website, but appropriately enough you can tweet ticular order. A reasonably priced kids menu is also available. them, and it always seems to be bursting with atmosphere. Q Mon - Wed 12:00 - 22:00, Thur - Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun If chicken doesn’t get your wings flapping (sorry) try one of 12:00 - 22:00. €€. JKS the sister restaurants - Skinflint on Crane Lane or the very

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012 where to eat 15

south king st | cork | blanchardstown | belfast | dundrum

• delicious noodles • rice dishes • freshly squeezed juices lunch • wine deal • sake €9.95 • japanese beers 12pm - 3pm | mon-fri

* includes • kids menu complimentary drink

take-out menu available

south king st tel: 01 4782152 cork tel: 021 4278874 wagamama.ie blanchardstown tel: 01 8219449 wagamama ireland dundrum tel: 01 2157188

red-blooded Bear on South William Street. But for us, this of you feeling under the weather, a pitcher of Bloody Mary one is right at the top of the pecking order (sorry again). will soothe the soul, and their Smoked Chicken Quesadillas Q 12:00 - 00:00. €€. K and Odessa Burger will always deliver. The upstairs seating is all restaurant, whereas downstairs has the air of a relaxed The Farm C2, 3 Dawson Street, D2, MLuas St drinking club. Now with a members club above the restaurant, Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 8654, www. this is definitely one for the haves and wannahaves. Have we thefarmrestaurant.ie. This is just what the name sug- just invented a word? Q Mon - Thur 12:00 - 00:30, Fri - Sat gests - good wholesome food. Products are locally sourced 12:00 - 02:30, Sun 12:00 - 00:00. €€€. J and the majority are organic or free-range. As a result, menus are subject to seasonal changes. This is home- Pearl Brasserie C-3, 20 Merrion St Upr, D2, tel. style cooking in a very funky location. Treat yourself to (+353)(0)1 661 3572, www.pearl-brasserie.com. the Cottage Pie or the organic burgers, followed by some Beautifully presented seafood and the use of traditional fantastic traditional apple tart. Most of the wines are also meats such as rabbit, pigeon and vension set this inven- organic. This is guilt-free dining out. Q Sun - Thur 11:00 - tive menu apart from the norm. The warm-hued interior 23:00, Fri - Sat 11:00 - 00:00. €€€. J has well-spaced tables and wonderfully romantic alcoves perfect for intimate occasions. The hidden table at the Green 19 B-3, 19 Camden Street, D2, MLuas Har- back also makes an ideal venue for private dinner parties. court St, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 9626, www.green19. An oyster bar, peat burning fire, fish tanks and modern art ie. This very trendy little eaterie is like a little bit of New add to the special ambience. And it’s always nice to know York in Dublin, but without the high prices. It’s a little children are welcome in such a classy restaurant. Find it cool and a little funky, but don’t worry about dressing beside the Merrion Hotel. Q Lunch Mon - Fri 12:00 - 14:30, up or dressing down as it’s also extremely laid-back and Dinner Mon - Sat 18:00 - 23:30. €€€€. J welcoming - dining out has never been such good value. The chefs aim to provide good, wholesome meals using The Chef’s Counter C-2, 3rd Floor, The Pig’s Ear, seasonal produce, sourced in Ireland where possible. 4 Nassau St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 3865, www. There is a mean cocktail list and the wine selection is thepigsear.ie. One of the city’s most popular restaurants pretty great, and affordable. Q Mon - Sat 10:00 - 23:00, has extended their dining offer with this new intimate Sun 12:00 - 22:00. € - €€. JK epicurean experience. Lovers of good food can indulge in a 12-course tasting menu prepared by the chef in this Odessa B-2, 14 Dame Court, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 informal yet stylish upstairs space. As ever, it’s all about 7634, www.odessa.ie. Since it opened in 1994, Odessa fresh, seasonal produce - this time inspired by modern has managed to stay ahead in the happening stakes. Re- world cuisine. Share a table of eight or take one of the six nowned for its brunch, this contemporary space is the seats at the chef’s counter itself. Booking is essential, so spiritual home for trendy types listening to funky music and call at least 24hrs in advance. Q Mon-Sat 12:00 - 15:00, keeping a subtle eye on their cool contemporaries. For those 17:30 - 22:00. €€€€. J

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012 16 where to eat

Winding Stair B-2, 40 Lower Ormond Quay, D1, of the morning. With 30 wines available by the glass, MLuas Middle Abbey St, tel. (+353)(0)1 872 7320, it’s where many locals end up after starting a night out www.winding-stair.com. This Dublin landmark became in another haunt. Ideal for a romantic dinner, or just a famous in the 70s when writers, musicians and artists glass of wine before heading back to base, this little gem would meet here for food and wine. It has since been has seen its fair share of Dublin’s social glitterati pass renovated and is now a chic restaurant complete with the through its doors. Q Mon - Sat Lunch from 12:30, Dinner type of chairs you used to find in school. With a bookshop 17:00 - 22:30, Late night plates 23:00 - late, Sun from downstairs, and a restaurant upstairs with magnificent 18:00. €€€. J views over the Liffey, it really is in a world of its own. This is good food - with the emphasis on organic and locally L’Gueuleton B-2, 1 Fade St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 sourced ingredients - in a great location, and you can 675 3708, www.lgueuleton.com. Serving provincial even buy a book downstairs before 17:00 and bring it French food, this bistro-style restaurant with its leather upstairs to peruse while enjoying your meal. Find it at one drapes, large bar, big mirrors and picture windows feels end of the Ha’penny Bridge. Q Lunch Sun - Thur 12:00 very European. And its chilled-out atmosphere has won - 17:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 15:30. Dinner 17:30 - 22:30. it Best Casual Dining 2009. The chefs cook up a storm €€€. J behind the bar while the staff try to keep up - and the crowd loves it. The food is top quality and very filling, which is as you’d expect from hearty fare - such as venison casserole European or Toulouse sausages - and a name that translates as Gallagher’s Boxty House B-2, 20-21 Temple Bar, ‘blowout’. You can’t book, so get there early to secure D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 2762, www.boxtyhouse.ie. a table. Q Mon-Sat 12:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Sun This traditional Irish restaurant in the heart of Temple Bar 13:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 21:00. €€€. JB brims with antiques and curios and is a perfect place to sample Irish cuisine. As well as breakfast, stews, Dublin’s Pig’s Ear C-2, 4 Nassau St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 famous coddle and great winter feel good/comfort food, 3865, www.thepigsear.ie. It’s rare that diners will catch you can sample the eponymous Boxty - a traditional Irish a glimpse of their favourite celeb chef working up a sweat potato pancake with different fillings. Ideally located, it’s at the helm of a Dublin restaurant. So it’s reassuring to a favourite with tourists who wish to try the local food and note that head chef Stephen McAlister, (RTÉ’s The Res- there’s live trad music in the evenings. Q Mon - Thur, Sun taurant and The Afternoon Show) is a permanent fixture 11:00 - 22:30, Fri - Sat 11:00 - 23:00. €€€. JE at this classy Nassau Street eaterie. McAlister’s dishes are best described as a modern take on traditional Irish La Cave Wine Bar B-2, 28 South Anne St, D2, tel. cuisine. And since it’s been awarded the Michelin Bib (+353)(0)1 679 4409, www.lacavewinebar.com. Gourmand, all you hungry tourists will be guaranteed top This Dublin institution serves lunch and dinner, and then notch Irish ingredients. For lunch-time munchers check out becomes a wine bar with limited menu ‘til the early hours the cafe menu with light bite treats. Evening diners can enjoy a whole host of traditional platters such as bacon and cabbage, shepherds pie and (as the name suggests) deep fried crispy pig’s ears - a delicacy we’re assured. Look for the bright pink door, then ascend the staircase to the two spacious and contemporary rooms overlooking the leafy grounds of Trinity College. Q Mon - Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 17:30 - 22:00. €€€. J

Trocadero B-2, 4 St Andrew’s St, D2, tel. (+353) (0)1 677 5545, www.trocadero.ie. The ‘Troc’ exudes theatricality with its rich red velvet drapes, vintage show posters, mirrored walls and framed photos of famous guests. Indeed, this was the sometime haunt of Dublin’s luvvies and has been a city staple since the 50s. The food is reassuringly retro, with steaks having a menu all their own. Last orders are quite late, which makes a welcome change from other restaurants that try to get you out before the last bus home. Find it just around the corner from the Tourist Office. Q Mon - Sat 16:30 - 23:45. €€€. J

Unicorn C-3, 12b Merrion Court, Merrion Row, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 676 2182, www.unicornrestaurant. com. Famed for its piano bar, Unicorn is one of Dublin’s most popular eateries yet they can usually find a table for you even if you haven’t booked. The antipasto is delicious and the menu includes signature dishes using Italian and Irish ingredients. Whether you’re looking for a fun night out, good quality food and a quiet chat, or a bite to eat in the piano bar, this place can accommodate you. There’s even a resident table magician on Wed and Thur evenings. The restaurant’s popularity extends to their food emporium, and café (Mon-Sat 08:00 - 20:00). Q Mon-Sat 12:30-16:30, Mon-Thur 18:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 18:00-23:30. Closed Sun. €€€€. JES

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012 where to eat 17

Fish & Chips Beshoff Restaurant B-2, 6 O’Connell St, D1, MLuas Jervis St, tel. (+353)(0)1 872 4400, www.beshoffres- taurant.com. Set in a wonderful old building with black and white tiled floors, this busy restaurant is full of charm and serves very tasty fish and chips. The original Mr Beshoff arrived from his native Russia in 1912 and established what has become a bit of a Dublin institution. Good quality fish and chips are served on a plate (no less) in the upmarket self-service restaurant that also stocks wine or beer. For hunger pangs on the go, take away is also available. But we suggest you stay and soak up the tradition. Q Sun - Weds: 09:00 - 21:00, Thurs - Sat: 09:00 - 22:00. €. JS

Leo Burdock B-2, 2 Werburgh St, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 454 0306, www.leoburdock.com. This has been a local institution since 1913. Just opposite Christ Church Cathedral, this famous fish and chip shop is always busy. Fresh fish, tasty batter and good portions make this a classic so popular they’ve opened sit-down restaurants in other locations. Many famous faces have popped by for a portion and become immortalised in Burdock’s Hall of Fame. And if the grub’s good enough for Tom Cruise, who are we to argue? Q 12:00 - 00:00. €. JS Indian Jaipur B-2, 41-46 South Great George’s St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 0999, www.jaipur.ie. Hailed by critics and locals, this is a tantalisingly delicious and conveniently- located modern Indian restaurant. Using local ingredients such as Wicklow lamb, chefs practice the philosophy of Ayurveda - good health - with their innovative and extensive dishes. As well as boasting a fresh take on spices, the menu has plenty of vegetarian options - as expected of the Indian subcontinent. Q Mon - Sun 17:00 - 23:00. €€€. J unpretentious setting of muted tones, wooden tables and chairs and crisp white linens. Wine buffs will especially enjoy Jewel In The Crown B-2, 5 South Wlliam St, D2, tel. the 50% discount on full bottles every Monday and Tuesday. (+353)(0)1 677 0681, www.jewelinthecrown.ie. From Early bird menus run 18:00 - 19:00, perfect timing if you’re the outside it might be easy enough to pass this restaurant heading out or to a show later. And right next door to the by, but once you’ve been you’ll be sure to return. Early bird Olympia Theatre you couldn’t be more spoiled if you tried. menus are great value and you’re only concern will be ensur- Q Mon-Fri: 12:30 - 14:30, 18:30 - 22:30, Sat:18:00 -22:30. ing you don’t eat too much before your mains arrive. Food €€€€. J is tasty and there’s a great choice of hot and spicy fare. Q Mon - Sat Lunch: 12:00 - 14:30, Dinner 15:00 - 24:00 €€. J Lobster Pot D-3, 9 Ballsbridge Terrace, Ballsbridge, D4, tel. (+353)(0)1 668 0025, www.thelobsterpot.ie. Warm and inviting with a romantic elegance and enduring Italian passion for fresh, local produce - this Ballsbridge restaurant Dunne & Crescenzi C-2, 14 & 16 South Frederick St, is a real city stand-out. Opened in 1980 - with the original D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 3815, www.dunneandcrescenzi. key members of staff still here - The Lobster Pot offers a com. Established by an Italian husband and Irish wife team who bountiful menu of classic meat and seafood dishes, among moved here from Rome in 1995, this authentic Italian bistro is them Lobster Thermidor, Steak Tartar and Salmon Mornay. great for lunch or a low-key romantic evening. It’s also ideal for The fresh fish is exquisitely prepared, the game in season those days and evenings when you want nice wholesome food and the meat beautifully tender. And with a manager who’s that’s not too heavy or rich. Several locations across the city all also the sommelier, wine buffs will be particularly enamoured serve the same food and fantastic range of Italian wines, and of the selection. Just around the corner from many of leafy the chain is part of the Slow Food Revolution. Fans can also D4’s hotels and embassies, this Dublin gem is well worth the take home some fantastico foodie eats and treats. Q N° 16: trip. Q Mon - Sat 18:00 - 22:30. €€€€. Mon - Sat 08:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. N° 14: Mon 10:00 - 18:00, Tue - Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €€. J Lord Edward Restaurant & Tavern B-2, 23 Christchurch Place, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 454 2420, www.lordedward. ie. Dublin’s oldest seafood restaurant dates back to 1890 and Seafood overlooks Christ Church Cathedral. It’s a history-steeped, ye Les Frères Jacques B-2, 74 Dame St, D2, tel. (+353) olde three-in-one pub, lounge and restaurant named after United (0)1 679 4555, www.lesfreresjacques.com. Escape Irishman Lord Edward Fitzerald. All manner of marine morsels are the bustle of Dame Street at this charming - and award- available in an equally replete selecion of cooking options - from winning - restaurant Français. French cuisine, wines and scallops to sole, prawns to seafood platter. So extensive is the waiters combine to create a warm and intimate vibe that’s menu, in fact, that it’s positively oceanic. With Guinness on tap, perfect for a romantic meal or especially good value lunch. your all-round eating indulgence is complete. Q Lunch: Mon - Fri Seafood, steaks and delicious desserts are served in an 12:30 - 14:30, Diner: Mon - Sat 18:00 - 22:45. €€€€. J

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012 18 where to eat Nightlife

prepared on the premises every day. And yeast, dairy, gluten and wheat free diets are also catered for, making this one Horn of Plenty worth getting your teeth around. Breakfasts are definitely worth the trip alone, and will keep you replete as you explore the city. Find it just off Grafton Street. Q Mon - Tue 08:30 - 21:00, Wed - Sat 08:30 - 22:15, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€. JS Cafés & Brasseries Avoca Café B-2, 11-13 Suffolk St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 4215, www.avoca.ie. Walking into Avoca is like step- ping into a glittering treasure trove, with to-die-for clothing, accessories and gifts tempting the eye at every turn. And the top floor café continues the theme with its gloriously indulgent eats that are also available to take away from the basement. This renowned Irish brand has ten branches in Ireland, one in America... and three very popular cookbooks. Its city centre flagship location also has a rooftop garden - unusual in Dublin - and their broccoli and feta cheese salad and carrot salad are both so divine that you really will just want to keep on eating. De- licious. Q Mon - Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00 €€€. JS

Epicurean Food Hall B-2, Junction Middle Abbey St and Lower Liffey St, D1, MLuas Jervis St. Established over nine years ago, this light and bright international Food Hall is the only one of its kind in Ireland. Fifteen dedicated outlets conjure up an unrivalled choice of scrumptuous cuisine from across the globe - and at very reasonable prices. Indulge in Chinese, Indian, Turkish, Italian and Mexican food, or go traditional with Fish & Chips and Homemade Irish Pies & Stews. Delicious cof- fees and teas complete the gourmet experience which can be enjoyed ‘to go’ or at the communal seating for over 300 people. And, to complete your all-round experience, Irish dancers and musicians entertain the eaters every Tuesday and Thursday from 17:00 - 19:00. Ample on-street, Arnotts and Jervis Street parking - and on the Luas line - make this an easy to reach, Spanish & Latin America affordable and delicious city centre dining experience. Find it Acapulco B-2, 7 Sth Great Georges St, D2, tel. (+353) just two minutes walk from O’Connell Street and the Ha’penny (0)1 677 1085, www.acapulco.ie. Sizzling with all the Bridge. The Middle Abbey Street entrance is directly opposite colour and exuberance of Latin America, this funky laid-back Arnotts, with the main shopping streets of Henry Street and restaurant serves spicy fajitas, burritos, enchiladas and other Mary Street close by. Q Mon - Wed 09:45 - 19:00, Thur authentic Mexican treats. Burgers, steaks and salads ensure 09:45 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:30 - 19:00. €€. JS all tastes are catered for... and the herbivores among you will love that practically every dish has a vegetarian option. For Queen of Tarts B-2, 4 Cork Hill, Dame St, D2, tel. a finale you’ll find in few (if any) other places, check out the (+353)(0)1 670 7499, www.queenoftarts.ie. Let them deep fried ice cream on the dessert menu. Margaritas and eat cake! And who could resist in such a quaint setting? This tequilas guarantee a lively night to remember - just keep an tiny tea-room just opposite Dublin castle is jam-packed with eye on those pitchers. Q Mon - Thur 12:00 - 22:30, Fri 12:00 wonderful home-made goodies. From the simplicity of the - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:30. €€. JS potato and onion pies to the scrumptuous decadence of the raspberry tarts, these savoury and sweet eats just couldn’t Port House B-2, 64a South William St, D2, tel. (+353) be better. And if you just can’t wait to sink your teeth into their (0)1 677 0298, www.porthouse.ie. Dungeon-like and lit only Rustic Apple Crumble, try out the larger premises just around by candles, make sure you remove your shades (hello, Bono) the corner on Cow’s Lane. Q Mon - Fri 08:00 - 19:00, Sat before entering this underground fairytale setting. Wine and 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JUS tapas are consumed against a backdrop of brick walls, dripping candles and wine bottles... setting the scene for a gloriously atmospheric night. Order a couple of tapas plates to start with, Coffee & Snacks then decide on your favourites. No reservations are accepted, Butlers Chocolate Café B-2, 31 Henry St, D1, MLuas and it is always busy, so arrive just ahead of your preferred eating Jervis St, tel. (+353)(0)1 874 7419, www.butlerschoco- hour. Q Sun - Thur 12:00 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 00:30. €€. J lates.com. This coffee shop is different and divine because when you buy a coffee you get a free chocolate. Chosen by you from the mouthwatering display... this feat can take much Vegetarian longer than deciding what coffee you want. Warm and inviting, Cornucopia Wholefood Restaurant B-2, 19 Wicklow St, once inside this or any one of the several branches across the D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 7583, www.cornucopia.ie. What city, you’ll be seduced by the combined aroma of coffee and was once a health food shop with a little café at the back has chocolate - truly a treat. Chocolates can also be bought to take expanded over the years to become a fully fledged restaurant. It’s away in pre-wrapped boxes or a box full of your own favourites. so popular, it has expanded into the Georgian house next door Traditional Irish chocolates for the folks back home - aren’t you and doubled its capacity. All the delicious vegetarian and vegan wonderful! Q Mon - Wed 07:45 - 19:00, Thur 07:45 - 21:00, Fri soups, salads, desserts and globally-inspired mains are freshly 07:45 - 19:00, Sat 08:45 - 19:00, Sun 10:15 - 19:00. €. JS

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is a big hit with both tourists and locals. It gets pretty crowded Bars at weekends and is a big hit with sports fans. The Hairy Lemon Against The Grain B-3, 11 Wexford St, D2, MLuas (we think we know what the name means!) is decorated in the St Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 470 5100, www. ramshackle way of many Irish pubs, and is deceptively large, winefoodbeer.com. Against The Grain by name, against the with plenty of nooks and crannies to choose from. Even when grain by nature. This cosy gastro-pub is ideal if you’re looking it’s not full it seems like it is thanks to the countless corners for a night out with a difference. With easy-listening tunes on and turns, so the atmosphere is always good. Q Mon - Wed the radio this is a great place to catch up with friends. Choose 09:00 - 23:30, Thur - Fri 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:30 - 01:00, a pint from their selection of over 100 beers, but forget about Sun 12:00 - 23:00 JK asking for your ‘usual’. For the connoiseur there’s the beer of the month to experiment with. Tasty bites are on offer with International B/C-2, 23 Wicklow St, D2, tel. (+353) locally-sourced produce creating homely fare. When you’re (0)1 677 9250, www.international-bar.com. This endur- done with all of that step back to your youth and grab a board ing venue is best known for its comedy nights, held upstairs game to while away an hour or two. Q Mon - Tue 15:00 - 23:00, and in ‘The Comedy Cellar’. Tickets are usually around the Wed - Fri 18:00 - 01:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00. Food Served 12:00 €10 mark which, for the show you get, is great value. There’s - 21:00 Daily JKW a great mix of established and rising comics, and well-known faces have taken to the stage as surprise guests. Comedy Dakota B-2, 9 South William St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 672 shows run seven-nights a week, but (depending on the night 7696, www.dakotabar.ie. This place is classy - tasteful leather or day) there’s also theatre and live music. Q Mon - Thur furniture, very, very good-looking clientele, and cool music. It’s 10:00 - 23:30, Fr - Sat 10:00 0 00:30, Sun 12:30 - 23:30 a pity that some of the prices are needlessly steep, but it’s JEKW definitely a cool place. Only a few short years old at this stage, Dakota has promptly established itself as a reputable, fashion- La Ruelle Joshua Lane, off Dawson Street, D2, MLuas able bar. Even though it covers a lot of ground, it can get crowded St Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 9544, www. on weekends, so it’s advisable to get there before 20:00 if you laruelle.ie. Whisking a date or group of friends down an want a seat or, better yet, one of those nice booths. Q Mon - Wed alleyway could be a risky business, but not at this modern 12:00 - 23:30, Thur - Sat 12:00 - 02:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Food yet cosy wine bar down Joshua Lane on Dawson Street. Its Served: Mon - Fri: 12:00 - 21:00, Sat - Sun: 12:00 - 20:00 JK perfecly secluded away from the outside world - something reflected in the interior, where the table spacing puts you Dawson Lounge C-2, 25 Dawson St, D2, MLuas St at ease before you dive into the superb wine list. With over Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 0311. Dublin’s full 80 wines, ports, sherries and champagnes from around the of ‘super-pubs’, places so big you might get lost going to the world included, choosing may take some time, so it’s just as loo. But if you’re looking for something different this is the spot. well the excellent range of cheeses and cured meats - not to Hailed as the smallest bar in the city (and perhaps country), mention the smoked Irish salmon - will keep the hungry gour- the Dawson Lounge has a refreshingly compact capacity of mand inside you happy. Q Thur - Sat 12:00 - 00:00. JK roughly 24. Naturally, it fills up quickly, which means a virtual guarantee of a warm, convivial atmosphere. And if that’s not enough to warm the cockles of your heart you can grab a warm bowl of soup or a quick sandwich. How quaint. Q Mon - Thur 12:00 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 01:00 - 00:30, Sun - 13:00 - 21:00 (or 23:00 depending on crowd) J

Garage Bar B-2, Essex St, Temple Bar, D2. If you like the simple life it doesn’t get better than this. There’s nothing fancy about this bar but that’s the great thing about it. It’s all about good beer, good tunes and good people to share it all with. Decorated with saw dust and the spools from electric cables; minimalist is one way to describe the décor. An important note is that the toilets are uni-sex and so close to the bar that you can hear people ordering while you wash your hands. Expect rock tunes on the speakers, casually-dressed locals and a good time all round. Q Mon - Tue 17:00 - 00:00, Wed - Fri :17:00 - 02:30, Sat - Sun 17:00 - 02:30 J

Globe B-2, 11 South George’s St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 1220, www.globe.ie. Housed in the same building as RiRa nightclub, the Globe just about straddles the line between cool and too cool. A big favourite in Dublin, especially among musicians and music fans, it boasts good tunes and a cosy atmosphere. Sitting at the bar is nice, but if you’re really lucky, you might land one of the big tables beside its even bigger windows. It’s really vibrant on weekends with funky clientele, but it’s also a good spot for a quiet drink earlier in the week. On weeknights entry to RiRá is free, but weekend nights are run by independent promoters who apply a cover charge. Q Mon - Fri 17:00 02:30, Sat 16:00 - 02:30, Sun 17:00 - 01:00 JE

Hairy Lemon B/C-2, 42 Lower Stephen St, D2, MLuas St Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 8949, www. thehairylemon.ie. This is a well-established Dublin spot and

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Chips with everything Clubs Club Nassau C-2, 1-2 Nassau St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 4388, www.clubnassau.com. Don’t even think of re- questing the latest chart-music here. Club Nassau is Dublin’s only dedicated 80s club... so much so, it has even revived the classic ‘slow-set’. So get the shoulder pads out and prepare to step back in time at this disco wonderland. The club has been recently renovated and a second floor added for you to chill out and rest your weary feet. There is a mixed crowed, from those recapturing their early days to others just digging the retro vibe. Q Fri, Sat 23:00 - 02:30 Cover Charge €10, Fri night 2 for 1 concessions available online. J

CopperFace Jacks B-3, 29 Harcourt St, D2, MLuas Harcourt St, tel. (+353)(0)1 425 5300, http://twitter. com/copperfacejacks. This is a notorious Dublin nightclub, Fitzwilliam Card Club C-3, Clifton Hall, Lower although it’s not for all tastes. It’s popularly considered the Fitzwilliam St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 611 4677, www. place for teachers, guards and nurses but in truth it’s a fairly fitzwilliamcardclub.com. It’s all gone Oceans Eleven mixed crowed. During the GAA season it’s bursting at the at this large open-plan casino situated near salubrious seams with fans from outside the capital. And at weekends . You may not bump into Pitt or Clooney, its two floors can be quite crowded. With everyone bopping to but you will find yourself in convivial and relaxed surround- cheesy classics and latest chart staples it gets quite sweaty ings as you up the ante at one of several gaming tables. too. It’s an ideal spot for people looking to have some fun and Novices and regulars can join in the nightly poker games. not take themselves too seriously - no posing here. And part of Check out their website to see what suits you best, and the reason for Copper’s enduring success is its popularity with phone the poker desk in advance if you’re looking for a single folk. And who are we to judge? Q Open 24hrs; Club Open particular game. Poker Festivals, Leagues and competi- 23:00 - 02:30 Cover Charge Sun -Thurs €5, Fri - Sat €10. J tions are also held in this large Georgian room overlooked by a distinctive staircase and secluded Balcony Room RíRá B-2, Dame Court, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 1220, - itself available for private parties. In Ireland, by law, www.rira.ie. One of the best clubs in Dublin, RíRá usually boasts you have to be a member to enter this casino which is a mix of hip hop, funk and whatever makes your hips move. Its designated a private members club. So don’t forget to name (pronounced ‘ree-raw’) is derived from the Irish expression bring valid photo ID to register and receive your free €10 rírá agus ruaille buaile, which (very roughly) translates to ‘messy bet. Although a casino and card club, you can also sit fun’. Anyway, it’s got some nice nooks and crannies, a smallish and enjoy a coffee and lunch without playing any of the dancefloor, some cosy seats and even a foosball table in its games. All poker tournaments are available for online basement. The ground floor is mellower and quieter, with laid-back booking via the Club website at www.fitzwilliamcardclub. tunes and a retro film on an overhead projector. Q Mon - Sat com. Q 24hrs Free Membership. 23:00 - 02:30 Admission varies from free to €10.

Sugar Club C-3, 8 Lower Leeson St, D2, MLuas St Market Bar B-2, Fade St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 613 9094, Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 678 7188, www.the- www.marketbar.ie. This is a super trendy, but not super sugarclub.com. If clubs were animals The Sugar Club would pretentious spot with a difference. The building was once a be a chameleon. This very slick theatre-style venue hosts loading bay and it’s maintained a very minimalist approach events from music to comedy to classic film-themed nights to décor. There’s no music, but you would hardly notice to cabaret and even the odd table quiz. From 23:00 the venue with the fantastic atmosphere. The bar was one of the first opens as a nightclub with the sounds of funk, soul, hip-hop, designed with the smoking ban in mind and there’s a large electro and more playing on different nights. With such variety heated smoking area at the impressive archway-entrance. we strongly recommended checking online in advance to see Despite the vastness of the venue it fills up quickly, and its what will be the night’s entertainment. Live events run 20:00 - restaurant section is always buzzing with people stocking up 23:00. Ticket prices vary. Q Live events: 20:00 - 23:00. Club on tasty tapas dishes, so for food we recommend booking in 23:00 - 03:00 Live shows and club entry vary. J advance. Q Mon - Thur 12:00 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Food Served Mon - Thurs 12:00 - 21:30, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 22:30, Sun 15:00 - 21:00 JKW Indie music venues Whelans B-3, 25 Wexford St, off Camden St, D2, tel. Porterhouse Temple Bar B-2, 16-18 Parliament St, (+353)(0)1 478 0766, www.whelanslive.com. Recently D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 8847, www.porterhouse- refurbished, but still not too fancy, Whelans is an understated brewco.com. This is the best of three branches of The pub and fantastic music venue. Its wooden interiors and laid- Porterhouse in Dublin. Temple Bar can be a bit touristy and back vibe are appropriate given its strong reputation as a full-on for some tastes, but we like this microbrewery and music venue. It’s a good place for a quiet afternoon pint, or a restaurant. It serves a little taste of local cuisine (insofar as night out as the gig section opens the doors to join the pub on you can call Irish food cuisine) and a very impressive variety weekends. This makes for a fun (if sometimes jam-packed) in- of beers - the Porterhouse Red is especially inviting. It tow- die music club. Many local musicians played this venue on their ers over Parliament Street with its three floors and always way up and some still drink there. The punters vary in age and has a crowd - a nice mix of locals, city workers and tourists. style, but the most common thread is a love for music and late Sometimes they have decent live music, and it’s got its share drinks. One tip for newcomers - don’t try to talk to that man with of cosy little corners to combat the sprawling size. Q Mon - the hat at the bar who isn’t moving (many have) - he’s made Thur 11:30 - 00:30, Fri - Sat 11:30 - 02:30, Sun 12:00 - 00:00. of stone. Q Mon - Fri 14:20 - 02:30, Sat 17:00 - 02:30, Sun Food Served: Mon - Sun: 12:00 - 21:30 JEK 17:00 - 01:30 Cover Charge €10 after 22.30 Fri & Sat. JE

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Twisted Pepper B-2, 54 Middle Abbey St, D1, MLuas Late bars Jervis St, tel. (+353)(0)1 873 4038, www.bodytonic. Bruxelles B/C-2, Harry St, D2, MLuas St Stephen’s com/thetwistedpepper/. Neighbour to the intimate, yet Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 5362. Next to the statue of super trendy Academy, Twisted Pepper is the perfect spot Phil Lynnot, this bar is unofficially split into three sections. for people who like their music in a laid back venue. The bar Upstairs is a normal Dublin pub and downstairs is divided by often has emerging Irish acts lined up for your entertainment music - rock to the left, indie-rock to the right. In a nice location and is full of very cool people. And just when we thought the just off Grafton Street, the pub inevitably attracts a varying place couldn’t get any cooler they opened a café on Sat and clientelle from city workers to ageing bikers, regular dubs, Sun. The café opens 12:00 - 17:00 and there’s a small col- indie kids and tourists. It’s a busy place, but keep an eye out lection of books for your entertainment and cool jazz on the for the snug little corner upstairs in the right, secluded from radio. Q Mon - Wed 16:00 - 00:00, Thur - Fri 16:00 - 02:30, the (occasionally) maddening crowd. On those rare occasions Sat - Sun 12:00 02:30. JEW when the weather’s nice, the outdoor seats are perfect for al fresco pints. A friendly, warm bar with great music too. JE Workman’s Club B-2, 10 Wellington Quay, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 6692, www.theworkmansclub.com. With Hogans B-2, 35 George’s St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 its back turned nonchalantly to Temple Bar, the Workman’s 5904. Nestled on the corner of Fade Street (home of the Club, situated on the quays beside the Clarence Hotel, is the Hills-style reality show of the same name), this is a fun, thinking person’s indie spot. It hosts live gigs from the loud lively and loud spot to meet friends. With a mixed crowed and lively to the quietly acoustic, comedy shows, tastings and it’s generally laid-back and cool, without being too trendy. At indie DJ sets, spread out over several floors. The ever-changing weekends it’s very popular and when the ground-floor bar fills, layout is a mystery, with new rooms appearing out of nowhere the crowd spills over into the basement for some funky tunes. every few months, but the average age of the crowd seems This is a place for good fun and good pints, and, with a late to rise with every set of stairs you climb. It gets crowded on licence at the weekend it’s definitely one of the better pubs weekends and seats are at a premium, especially on the in Dublin. QOpen 13:00 - 23:30, Thu, Sun 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, gloriously riotous first floor, but despite being one of the city’s Sat 13:00 - 02:30. J most alluring venues, its best feature is that you don’t have to be too cool for school to feel at home. Q 17:00 - 02:30. J Messrs Maguire B-2, 1/2 Burgh Quay, D2, MLuas Middle Abbey St, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 5777, www. messrsmaguire.ie. This late pub comprises roughly four Traditional Bars floors (the jury’s still out on whether part of the stairway, Blarney Inn C-2, 1-2 Nassau St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 close to the entrance, counts as a floor). It’s a nice place- 679 4388, www.blarneyinn.com. If Dublin’s nightlife with a lively atmosphere or, if you’re there at off-peak times, hasn’t been up to expectations - ie, not enough céilís for a mellow vibe. The view from the upper floors is fantastic, your liking - this is the perfect spot. Set in one of the city’s especially if you’re lucky enough to get a window seat on one oldest buildings (dating back to 1837) the bar’s trad appeal of the higher storeys. They tend to have a big screen for major flows seamlessly from its exposed brick walls, Irish street sporting occasions, so it’s not a bad place on match days. signs and local pics, drinks and ephemera to the traditional They’ve got great unique beers on tap too, as well as some music and Irish dancers... you couldn’t pack more Irishness basic pub food. Very mainstream, and maybe a little loud for into one spot. Shows are on Fri and Sat nights and a special some tastes, but it is popular. QOpen 10:30 - 00:30, Wed pre-show dinner menu is also available (see Where to Eat). 10:30 - 01:30, Thu 10:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 02:30. Book in advance to secure your spot and, even better, bag Food Served: Mon - Sun: 10:30 - 21:30 JK a bedroom in the adjoining Kildare Street budget hotel (see Where to Stay). Q Mon - Thur 10:00 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 10:00 Number 3 Fade Street B-2, Off Sth Great Georges St, - 00:30, Sun 12:00 - 00:00. Food Served: Weekdays 10:00 - D2. Tis a rare thing when a Dublin bar opens with no proper 22:00, Weekends until 23:00. JEK title: Other names being banded about include The Bar with No Name and Number 3. Even the entrance is low-key- a Davy Byrnes C-2, 21 Duke St, D2, MLuas St Stephen’s simple doorway with an occasional sign. The interior is like Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 5217, www.davybyrnes. a classy speakeasy- domestic couches, tables and chairs, com. Opened in 1889 and just off Grafton St, this pub has hardwood floors and lovely Georgian architecture create a been going strong ever since. It has a strong association with fancy house party vibe. The music is a nice mix of soul and James Joyce who used to be a regular here and mentioned it accessible alternative and the crowd are uber-cool 20 and in his seminal tomes Dubliners and Ulysses. Every Blooms- 30-somethings. Be warned - it gets pretty packed on week- day (16 June) tourists and locals flock here to sample the ends. QOpen 13:00 - 23:30, Thu, Sun 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat gorgonzola sandwich and glass of burgundy. Look up to catch 13:00 - 02:30. Brunch served Sat & Sun. JK a glimpse of the magnificent stained glass-domed ceiling. The fixtures are pre-WW1 and the food top notch. It gets particu- The Village B-3, 26 Wexford St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 larly full on Fri, sunny evenings and rugby weekends. Arrive 475 8555, www.thevillagevenue.com. This late bar/club early and grab a seat outside to enjoy the sights of Dubliners hasn’t changed much in the last decade or so. With other, passing by as you eat a tasty lunch or dinner and sink a cold somewhat similar bars (Whelans and Solas) on either side, drink. Q Mon - Thur 11:00 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 11:00 - 00:30, The Village is part of a small hub of indie-centric pubs and Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Food Served: Mon - Thurs 12:00 - 21:00, clubs. The crowd are pretty funky (in the good way), and lean Fri 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. JK slightly to the bohemian side. It serves decent, pub-style food at fairly reasonable prices. It stays open nice and late, Frank Ryan’s 5 Queen Street, Smithfield, D7, MLuas usually has a great DJ (playing indie and a touch of hip-hop) Smithfield, tel. (+353)(0)1 872 5204, www.frankry- but don’t sit too far apart from your friends because it’s very ans.com. Straddling the postcodes of D1 and D7, as well loud! Admission to the bar is free, but the club has a cover as Smithfield and the city centre, this great little bar also charge that varies around the €10 mark. QOpen 11:00 - somehow manages to sit comfortably as a traditional pub 02:30, Sat 16:00 - 02:30, Sun 16:00 - 01:30. Food Served: that attracts a relatively young (think 30-ish upwards) and Mon - Fri 12:00 - 20.30 JK laid-back crowd. The great music that usually cranks up after

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012 22 Nightlife What to see

10pm helps, as does one of the best pints of Guinness in Long Hall B-2, 51 George’s St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 Dublin. The dark corners lend an air of the old-school tavern, 475 1590. The red carpet is decidedly less opulent, we as do the miscellaneous memorabilia hanging off the walls imagine, from when it first opened, but the Long Hall is a and ceiling, but the ambience remains bright and youthful. favourite for a diverse crowd. Students, ageing Dubliners and Friendly, atmospheric, cosy, welcoming, traditional and fun: professionals all flock here for its traditional atmosphere and Ryans is all of these things. But most of all it is a genuine, good pints of Guinness. Some customers think it’s a little down to earth, real Irish pub in the best possible sense of too old school (we wouldn’t mind if it was air-conditioned, the words. JEW for example), but others believe that it’s endearingly old- fashioned. It can be a little stuffy, but the atmosphere is undeniable when it’s busy: a very Irish pub. Q Mon - Wed Gay Bars 16:00 - 23:30, Thur 13:00 - 23:30, Fri - - Sat 13:00 - 00:30, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. J Dragon B-2, South Great George’s St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 1590. This place has only become a O’Donoghue’s B-2, 15 Merrion Row, D2, MLuas St gay bar in the last few years - becoming the sister bar to Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 660 7194, www. the nearby George - and is a big draw in the local scene. odonoghues.ie. This pub is famous for its music tradition. Loud, boisterous and fabulous fun, The Dragon is an It was here that the city’s sweethearts - The Dubliners got unpretentious and lively place for singles, couples or their start, and since then it has played host to many more groups. It’s also probably the most drag queen-friendly famous Irish faces. It continues to host many spontaneous bar in Central Dublin. Expect anything... except a quiet trad sessions and everyone is welcome to join in the sing- drink! Q Mon - Sat 17:00 - 02:30, Sun 17:00 - 23:00 J ing. It’s a low-key pub but the atmosphere is truly what makes it. On Thur and Fri mingle with the well-heeled as Front Lounge B-2, 33 Parliament St, D2, tel. they unwind after their hectic weeks, but be warned, arrive (+353)(0)1 670 4112, www.thefrontlounge.ie. early if you want to find a seat. It’s also a hotspot for sports The Front Lounge is not only the classiest gay-friendly fans, particularly during the Six Nation’s rugby Tournament. bar in Dublin, what with its tasteful decor and comfy O’Donoghue’s has everything you would expect from a tradi- leather furniture, but it’s also pleasingly understated: tional Irish pub - the craic and the ceoil (the fun and music). it’s a popular place for gays and lesbians to bring their Q Mon - Thur 10:30 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 10:30 - 00:30, Sun straight friends (though the vast majority of customers 12:30 - 23:00. JE are gay). Depending on the night, there could be a DJ, jazz band or karaoke For the most part, though, it’s just Oliver St John Gogarty’s B-2, 58-59 Fleet St, a nice, comfortable bar. They serve lunch too and the Temple Bar, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 1822, www. food is good, even if the service can be a little slow; a gogartys.ie/bar. Oliver St John Gogarty’s (the “St John” relaxing meal, in other words, but not somewhere to eat part is often pronounced “Sin-gin”) is very, very popular if you’re in a rush. Q Open Mon - Thur 12:00 - 23:30, with tourists. Indeed, it seems to draw more visitors than Fri - Sat 15:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. Food Served: locals. It’s a sprawling Irish pub, modelled on the type Mon - Fri: 12:00 - 16:00. JEK you’d find in more rural areas. There tends to be trad music playing there on most nights and it always draws George B-2, 89 South Great Georges St, D2, tel. the crowd, which usually translates to a nice atmosphere (+353)(0)1 478 2983, www.thegeorge.ie. As a gay (or ‘craic’!). Opinion is divided on this place, but we bar it’s practically an institution, and indeed, a big draw in think if you get there early enough (it tends to fill up on the local scene with a lot more niche than, say, The Front weekends) and when the right band is on, you’ll have a Lounge. As a place for young guys to meet, we’ve heard a great time. And the complex also houses a budget hostel lot of endorsements, and on a Friday or Saturday night you and self-catering apartments... so there’s no excuse for can hear the crowd and music from across the street. Its losing your way home. Q Mon - Sat 10:30 - 02:30, Sun Sunday night bingo, hosted by TV personality Shirley Temple 12:00 - 01:30. Food Served: Mon - Sun: 16:00 - 23:00. Bar, are almost legendary. If you’re lucky, cross-dressing JEK performance artist Veda will be performing that night too. But the must-see is Veda’s drag show on Wednesday Stag’s Head B-2, 1 Dame Court, D2, tel. (+353) nights which comprise of funny, compelling and inventive (0)1 679 3687, www.louisfitzgerald.com/stagshead. lip-synching interpretations of all your favourite hits. You go Slightly hidden from its neighbouring Dame Street, The girl. Q Mon - Tue 12:30 - 23:30, Wed - Sat 12:30 - 02:30, Stag’s Head, is a Dublin pub in the best sense. Attracting Sun 12:30 - 01:30 Free Mon, Tue, Thur, Fri, Wed €4 after a varied clientele from the young to the old, the locals and 23:00 (€2 for students or lgbt association cardholders, Sat the tourists, and the mainstream to the offbeat. Spanning €10 after 23:00, Sun €8 after 23:00. YE a ground floor, first floor and basement, it is reassuringly unpretentious. One reason for the varied crowd is the fact PantiBar B-2, 7-8 Capel St, D1, MLuas Four Courts, that it sits only a few yards from mainstream pubs (like Ma- tel. (+353)(0)1 874 0710, www.pantibar.com. Once digans and 4 Dame Lane) and slightly offbeat ones (like the upon a time this was Gubu, but that was before well-known Globe), but most punters, we imagine, are attracted to its Dublin drag queen Miss Panti took it over and renovated it. simplicity. There’s live Irish music Thurs, Fri and Sat nights. The makeover extended beyond a lick of paint, and a stage Q Mon - Thur 10:30 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 10:30 - 00:30, Sun now takes pride of place at the end of the bar. PantiBar has 12:30 - 23:00. Barfood Served Mon - Sat 12:00 - 18:00. firmly established itself in the local gay scene - competing JEKW strongly with The George, Dragon and The Front Lounge. Not surprisingly, it plays host to a number of special nights, including drag performances, karaoke, make and do and movie nights. The Panti show on Sat is a blast. A word of Follow Dublin In Your Pocket warning - though deservedly popular, PantiBar might be a bit full-on for certain tastes. Q Open from 17:00. J on and

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From giant needles to ancient manuscripts, there’s a land- mark and cultural hub at every turn. Museums and tours bring the city’s story to life, statues provide handy meeting points and parks create quiet escape from the throngs. With our comprehensive guide unfurled at the appropriate page, you’ll not set a foot wrong. And keep an eye on Finding Your Way Around (p.7) to help you navigate your passage. Cathedrals Christ Church Cathedral B-2, Christchurch Place, Lord Edward St, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 8099, www. cccdub.ie. Of Dublin’s two city centre cathedrals - both Church of Ireland - Christ Church is the oldest, with an early manuscript dating it back to 1030. Founded on the former site of a Viking church, construction began under the orders of the wonderfully-named Viking King Sitric Silkenbeard. Along with St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Christ Church served as the seat for the city’s five Bishops and subsequent Archbishops, the second of which - Laurence O’Toole - be- came Dublin’s patron saint. O’Toole and Norman conqueror Strongbow remodeled the cathedral in 1172. From the 12th Century Norman Conquest until Irish Inde- pendence in 1922, Christ Church reflected its English rulers’ fluctuation between the Catholic and Protestant faiths. In one pivotal period, King James restored Catholicism and attended Mass in 1689. A year later the protestant King William gave thanks for his Battle of the Boyne victory and presented Christ Church with a set of gold communion plates During the 16th and 17th Centuries, the cathedral was used as a market, meeting place and even a pub. Virtually rebuilt in the 1870s, today it stands as a monument to the history and heritage of Ireland, and continues as a working church with daily services, and renowned bell ringing during Sun service 10:00 & 14:30 and Fri practice 19:00 - 21:00. Its many treasures and curiosities include Strongbow’s founded beside a sacred well where Saint Patrick is said to tomb, the large medieval crypt with its mummified cat have baptised pagans and converted them to Christianity and rat, and Dublin’s own leaning wall. There is also a around 450A.D. A small wooden church was built to com- cafe in the 12th Century crypt. The cathedral is linked memorate this visit and a cathedral building erected between by a stone bridge to the former Synod House which now 1200 and 1270 - a feat begun by the first Anglo-Norman houses the & The Viking World museum. bishop, John Comyn. Q Mon-Sat 09:30 - 18:00 (last admission 45mins before Through years of erosion and persecution, the Church of closing), Sun 12:30 - 14:30. Adults €6, Conc. €4/3, U16 €2. Ireland building fell into disrepair but was restored by the Family, Group and Dublinia discounts available. J Guinness family between 1860 and 1900. Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver’s Travels, was Dean from 1713-1745 and Saint Patrick’s Cathedral B-2/3, Saint Patrick’s is buried near the entrance. A selection of Swift artefacts Close, off Patrick St, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 475 4817, can be found in the Cathedral including his epitaph, death www.stpatrickscathedral.ie. Over 800 years old, Ireland’s mask, writings and a parchment awarding him the Freedom largest church and the island’s National Cathedral was of the City of Dublin. One of the Cathedral’s most significant events was in 1742 when a combined choir with neighbouring Christ Church Cathedral gave the first public performance of Handel’s Messiah. This strong singing tradition continues today with two sung services daily (except Sat) during school term - the only Cathedral to do so in Britain and Ireland. It’s a not-to-be missed experience in a truly inspirational setting. Saint Patrick’s, perhaps more than any other building in Ire- land, embodies the history and heritage of Irish people of all backgrounds from the earliest times to the present day. Which is why each year over 300,000 visitors and pilgrims visit the cathedral and its Living Stones exhibition which celebrates its place in the life of the city, its history, and role in the future. Services: Mon-Fri: 09.00: Sung Matins (school term only), 11.05: Holy Eucharist (Wed and Thur), 17.30: Choral Even- song, Sat: 11.05: Holy Eucharist, Sun: 08.30: Holy Eucharist, 11.15: Sung Eucharist/Matins, 15.15: Choral Evensong. Q Mon-Fri 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00 (until 17:00 Nov-Feb), Sun 09:00 - 10:30, 12:30 - 14:30, also March-Oct 16:30 - 18:00. Adults €5.50, Students/Seniors €4.50, Family (2+2) €15. Group rates also available. J

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Historic Buildings The History of the GPO Dublin Castle B-2, off Dame St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 645 8813, www.dublincastle.ie. Wrapped up in this General medieval stone fortification is the story of Dublin and its Post Office English colonial rule. As castles go, it’s not exactly an in- B-2, O’Connell your-face affair, but step inside to see magnificent rooms, Street, D1, elegant courtyards and a stylishly landscaped garden. The M L U A S castle was once the site of a 930s Danish Viking Fortress, Middle Ab- then a 12th Century Norman Fort. The newer, stronger bey St., www. Dublin Castle was created by King John and completed in anpost.ie. Lo- 1230 as a city defence, Royal Treasury and administra- cated halfway tion of justice. The courtyard featured defensive walls and along O’Connell four round towers, only one of which - the Record Tower Street, beside - survives to this day. The castle acted as the English, the Spire, this iconic Georgian building opened in Jan 1818 then British, seat of Government until 1922 when it was and is the HQ for Ireland’s postal service. Perched at the ceremonially handed over to the newly-formed Provisional top are three statues: Mercury, Fidelity and Hibernia (Latin Government and its leader Michael Collins. Coats of arms for the island of Ireland). of royal chief representatives still adorn the Chapel Royal’s Less than 100 years after its opening, the GPO was to carved oak galleries and stained glass windows - harking play an important role during the of 1916 back to a time when Anglo-Irish pomp and extravagance when it became the headquarters for the leaders of the continued undiminished, even through the Great Famine. uprising. The building was extensively damaged during Much of the medieval castle burnt down in the Great Fire of the fighting but the facade was largely unscathed and the 1684, and the rebuilt structure attained a Georgian style. GPO was rebuilt and reopened as a post office in 1929. Many of the rooms you see today, including the magnifi- Inside, a bronze sculpture of the legendary Irish warrior cent State Apartments, hark back to this period. Today Cuchulainn is dedicated to those who died in the Easter the Castle hosts state visits, conferences and Presidential Rising (also see History p.8). inaugurations. Complete your tour at the gift shop and The building continues to operate as a post office and Vaults Bistro. Q Mon - Sat: 10.00 - 16.45, Sun and Bank also houses an interesting museum whose Letters, Holidays: 12.00 - 16.45. €4.50/3.50/2, U7 free. JK Lives & Liberty exhibition tells the fascinating and historic story of Ireland’s postal service. An original copy Dublin City Hall B-2, Dame St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 of the Proclamation of Independence is also on display. 222 2204, www.dublincity.ie. Perched at the top of QMuseum: Mon-Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Parliament St, this grand Georgian building, designed Museum €2. J by renowned architect Thomas Cooley, was originally the Royal Exchange and became the centre of municipal government in 1852. City Hall has one of the best views in Dublin and its atmospheric vaults house a multimedia Landmarks & Monuments exhibition on the city’s history - The Story of the Capi- Ha’penny Bridge B-2, Bachelors Walk, Wellington tal. The self-guided exhibition takes just one hour and Quay, MLuas Jervis. No trip to Dublin is complete without tells the tale of this unique and ever changing city using the obligatory photo opportunity against the backdrop of medieval manuscripts, archive newsreel footage and pre- this famous walkway. Built as the Wellington Bridge in 1816 cious artefacts. A small café and shop are located at the by William Walsh, it was the first between Capel Street and entrance to top and tail your visit. Free guided tours are O’Connell Bridges, and the Liffey’s only pedestrian crossing by prior arrangement, and audio guides and leaflets are until the Millennium Bridge opened in 2000. For 100 years, available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, English and pedestrians were charged a halfpenny toll to cross its 43m, Irish. QMon-Sat 10:00 - 17:15. Last admission 1hr before hence the enduring nickname. Its familiar arched silhouette closing. Adult €4, conc. €2, child €1.50, 2+4 €10. JK also suggests the coin-related moniker. The bridge was closed in 2001 for major repair and reopened 2003 with its Inchicore Rd, Kilmainham, D8, original paint colour restored. Today it is one of the oldest tel. (+353)(0)1 453 5984, www.heritageireland.com. cast-iron bridges in the world, and its location at the gateway Ireland’s most famous prison was built in 1792 and is one to Temple Bar virtually guarantees at least one traverse for of Europe’s largest unoccupied gaols. Now a museum, the any camera-happy traveller. J jail - with its imposing Victorian wing and bleak, confined cells - is synonymous with the Irish fight for Independence. Molly Malone statue C-2, Grafton St, D2. The Its prison yard was where the leaders of the 1916 Easter city’s most famous lady is immortalised in the epony- Rising were executed by a British Army firing squad, and mous song telling the story of a humble fishmonger who its last prisoner was Éamon de Valera, first President of wheeled her wheelbarrow through the streets broad and the Free State the Republic of Ireland. After De Valera’s narrow (and so forth). Whether or not her trade directly release in 1924 Kilmainham Gaol was shut down, then involved the delivery of seafood is up for debate... but restored in the ’60s. Commemorative plaques, original locals refer to her as the Tart with the Cart. You be the graffiti and prisoner art combine to create a unique and judge.J absorbing perspective on Irish social and political history. Several movies have been filmed here, including Michael Spire of Dublin B/C-2, O’Connell St, D1, www.spir- Collins, In The Name of the Father and, perhaps less eofdublin.com. MLuas Abbey St. Piercing Dublin’s skyline conspicuously, The Italian Job. One hour tours run every is this unmissable silver shard of stainless steel standing 30mins and include an audio visual presentation. QApril- proudly on a bronze base symbolising Ireland’s past. Rising Sept. daily 09:30 - 18:00. (last admission 1hr before clos- 120m, the hollow structure is almost twice as high as Liberty ing). Adult €6, Senior Citizen/Group €4, Child/Student €2, Hall, Dublin’s original seven storey ‘skyscraper’. Its 3m-wide Family €14. Bus 79, 79A, 78A & 51B from Aston Quay, D2. base tapers to a 15cm point, the last 12m of which provide

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com February - March 2012 Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com February - March 2012 26 What to see

an illuminated beacon for the city’s night sky. Completed on Dublinia B-2, St Michael’s Hill, Christchurch, Lord Ed- 21 Jan 2003, the construction is designed to safely sway up ward St, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 4611, www.dublinia. to 1.5m in high winds, and 12,000 tiny holes allow light to ie. Located at the historic crossroads of Dublin, this top pass through, enhancing its daylight impact. Officially called visior attraction tells the story of the city with three exciting the Monument of Light, early name suggestions included The exhibitions. Viking Dublin and Medieval Dublin re-create the Sword of Light, Dublin Gleams and Brian Boru. However, as city through life-size reconstructions including a Viking house befits an enduring trend to rechristen local landmarks, Dublin- and a medieval fair, while Death and Disease of medieval ers have dubbed it the Stiletto in the Ghetto, the Nail in times are also investigated. Finally unearth the city’s past at the Pale and several other names we daren’t print. Situated the interactive History Hunters exhibition, visit an excavation outside the GPO, the Spire replaces Nelson’s Pillar which was site and see medieval bugs under the microscope in the Lab. destroyed by an IRA explosion in 1966.J See Dublin from a new perspective and come away know- ing more about its citizens throughout the ages. QOpen daily 10:00 - 17:00. Adults €7.50, conc. €6.50, Children €5, Museums & Galleries 2+2 €23. Combination tickets with Christ Church Cathedral B-2, Dublin Castle, off Dame available. JK St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 407 0750, www.cbl.ie. This award-winning library and art museum is housed in the Dublin Writers Museum D-4, 18 Parnell Square, 18th Century Clock Tower Building and adjoining modern D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 872 2077, www.writersmuseum. purpose-built gallery. It contains the personal collection of com. This restored Georgian mansion provides a suitably Sir Alfred Chester Beatty, a wealthy American miner who, salubrous setting in which to celebrate 300 years of Ireland’s on his death in 1968, bequeathed his unique collection to outstanding literary legacy. As befits a nation synonymous the Irish public - on condition that it bear his name. Its rare with award-winning scribes, the museum provides an ornate treasures of ancient and religious manuscripts and art repre- backdrop for prose, poetry, plays and personal possessions sent the world’s great cultures from Asia and the Middle East from the likes of Wilde, Beckett, Joyce and Yeats. All genres to North Africa and Europe. Beautifully illustrated Korans, are represented from the magnificent horror of Bram Stoker’s rich Egyptian papyrus and colourful Chinese dragon robes Dracula to the imaginative allegory that is Jonathan Swift’s are among the many fascinating items on display. The Silk Gulliver’s Travels. A section is also devoted to children’s Road Café reflects the global theme with food from exotic literature, and portraits and sculptures bring each writer into destinations such as Afghanistan, Morocco and Palestine, focus. It is the only city museum to offer a multi-lingual digital and the gift shop sells Fair Trade products. Sir Alfred was audio guide. A coffee shop, crafts and bookshop continue made Ireland’s first honorary citizen in 1957 and would to capture the creative mood and keep your cultural juices doubtless approve of his legacy’s final resting place. Tours flowing. QMon-Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Last are themed, so plan in advance. QMay-Sept Mon-Fri 10:00 admission 45mins before closing. Adults €7.50, conc. €6.30, - 17:00, Oct-April Tues-Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Child €4.70, Family (2+3) €18. Combined tickets available with Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Free. JK the James Joyce Museum and The Shaw Birthplace. JK

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Trinity College Dublin The ‘Turning Darkness into Light’

C-2, College Green, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 896 1000, www.tcd.ie. Founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth, Trinity College is the oldest university in Ireland and undoubtedly its most renowned. Former alumni include writers Oliver Goldsmith, Bram Stoker, Oscar Wilde and Samuel Beckett, as well as past Presidents of Ireland Mary Robinson and Mary McAleese. Spreading across 47acres, its cobbled quads attract over 500,000 visitors a year. The College’s main architectural features are the 19th Century Campanile leading into Parliament Square, the multi-denominational Chapel with its 19th Century painted window and the Old Library’s awe-inspiring Long Room and iconic Book of Kells. Tours available.

Book Of Kells Written around the year 800 AD by Columban monks, this highly decorative vellum copy of the four gospels in a Latin text is regarded as the finest surviving example of Irish Celtic art. Richly illustrated with many-hued letters and pictorials incorporating animals, humans and Bib- lical scenes, this exquisite manuscript reveals a seemingly inexhaustible wealth of supremely detailed ornamentation upon each close inspection. The Book’s name comes from the Abbey of Kells in Kells, Co. Meath where it was reputed to have been (at least partly) written, though its exact origins remain unclear to this day. The Book remained there until the 1650s when it was moved to Dublin for safekeeping and presented to Trinity’s Library in 1661. Over the centuries Exhibition & Library Shop it has endured damage, part-theft and various attempts open seven days a week at rebinding - good and bad. Originally a single volume, for conservation reasons it has been rebound into four volumes, Admission Times two of which are normally on display showing examples of script and illustration. Visits are self guided, with displays Monday to Saturday 09.30 to 17.00 telling the history of the Book of Kells and other historic Sunday (October to April) 12.00 to 16.30 manuscripts, and reservations are not taken. Q Mon-Sat Sunday (May to September) 09.30 to 16.30 09:30 - 17:00. Sun 09:30 - 16:30 (May-Sept), 12:00 - 16:30 (Oct-April). Adult €9, conc. €8, 2+4 €18, U12 Free. Group and T: 896 2320 | F: 896 2690 family rates available. E: [email protected] Long Room Around 200,000 antiquarian tomes adorn www.bookofkells.ie the double-storey open shelves in this stunning 65m long space. Built between 1712-63, and featuring a stunning 12.6m high timber barrel vaulted ceiling, the room also contains rows of marble busts - including one of writer and Dean Jonathan Swift - and Ireland’s oldest harp, the c.15th Century Brian Boru. Named after the high king of Ireland who died in 1014, the harp is a symbol of Ireland. Also on display is one of only a few remaining copies of the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic. Changing exhibitions add to the Long Room’s creative charm and visitor appeal. Q The Book of Kells admission also covers The Long Room. J

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Glasnevin Cemetery and Museum Off B-1, Finglas Rd, reconstruction with original contents of Francis Bacon’s Reece Glasnevin, D11, tel. (+353)(0)1 882 6550, www.glasn- Mews Studio is also on display. Visitors can lose themselves, evintrust.ie. Ireland’s National Cemetery opened its gates in figuratively speaking, in the Bookshop and Café. QTue-Thur 1832 and is the final resting place for many modern Irish heroes, 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed among them statesmen Michael Collins, Daniel O’Connell and Mon. Free to the permanent collection. JK Eamon DeValera, writers Jonathan Swift and Brendan Behan, Maud Gonne MacBride, Countess Markievicz and many more. B-1, 35 North Great Georges St, At 124 acres, it is the largest cemetery in Ireland and also has D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 878 8547, www.jamesjoyce.ie. Built in the country's tallest round tower which marks O’Connell’s tomb. 1784 for the Earl of Kenmare, the original plasterwork of this fine The high walls and watchtowers you see today were built to keep Georgian townhouse was restored using photographs taken out bodysnatchers operating in the 18th and early 19th century. by Joyce’s friend, Constantine Curran. Prof. Denis J. Maginni Walking tours (90mins) are a great way to explore this large and ran a Dance Academy from the house and was immortalised fascinating space which is still in use today. The modern three- by Joyce as a character in Ulysses. The Centre was founded storey Glasnevin Museum was built as part of the preparations by Senator David Norris and members of the Monaghan fam- for the 100th anniversary of the 1916 Easter Rising and houses ily, descendents of Joyce’s sister May. There is an exhibition details of the famous people buried at Ireland's necropolis. Follow and archive, and visitors are welcome to peruse the library’s the digital timeline that charts the history and draws connections reference material and translations of Joyce’s works. Themed between the cemetery's most interesting inhabitants. Then Walking Tours (€10/8) every Sat. QMon-Sat 10:00 - 17:00, descend to the basement's City of the Dead and discover how Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Last admission 16:30. Adults €5, Students/ different religions commemorate and celebrate their deceased. Seniors €4. Tours and group rates available. J The museum also has a Café, shop and genealogical research facility. QMuseum: Mon-Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 - Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship & Famine Museum C-2, 18:00. Tours: March-Oct 11:30, 13:00, 14:30. Museum or Tour Custom House Quay, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 473 0111, €6/5. Combined ticket €10/9, 2+2 €25. MP3 Self Guided Tour www.jeaniejohnston.ie. See how Irish emigrants lived, and €10. General entry free. Bus Routes 40a and 40d from Parnell perished, aboard this replica 19th Century Famine Ship. The St and 140 from O'Connell St. KL original sailed from Tralee, Co. Cork to North America from 1847-1855, taking locals on a perilous 3000 mile journey B-2, Charlemont House, Parnell Sq from the suffering of the Great Famine to the promise of the Nth, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 222 5550, www.hughlane.ie. New World. Tours recall this pivotal chapter in Ireland’s his- Founded in 1908, and regarded as the world’s first known public tory which saw millions leave these shores, most never to gallery of modern art, this important collection is housed in a return. QTours daily. Adult €8.50, conc. €7.50, 2+2 €20. J striking 18th Century house and named after its art connois- seur founder. The collection encompasses over 2000 pieces National Gallery of Ireland C-2, Merrion Square West & from artists such as Manet, Monet, Degas and Renoir, and Clare St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 661 5133, www.nationalgal- Irish artists including Jack B. Yeats and John Lavery. Uniquely, a lery.ie. Paintings, sculptures and objets d’art are housed in this

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National Museum of Ireland

Archaeology C-3, Kildare St, D2. This late 19th Century building has an 18m high entrance with classi- cal columns of Irish marble, and a hall that opens onto a great central court. Around this are exhibition rooms and a gallery where over 2million objects unearth Irish history from the prehistoric to late medieval periods. Highlights include Iron Age bog bodies, Ancient Egypt and Viking artefacts and one of Western Europe’s largest collections of prehistoric goldwork. Seek out the Tara Brooch (c.700AD) and Ardagh Chalice (c.800-900AD), two of Ireland’s most ornate and significant national treasures. J

Decorative Arts & History A-2, Collins Bar- racks, Benburb St, D7. MLuas Museum. Get a true feeling of history at this former barracks which housed troops for over three centuries. When handed over to the Free State Army in 1922, they were renamed Collins Barracks after Michael Collins, the Army’s first commander-in-chief. The uniform he was wearing when shot is on display, alongside exhibitions on Irish military and civilians in wartime, and a major documentation of the Easter Rising and Irish Civil War. On the decorative arts side, the museum also showcases some of Ireland’s finest designs - including clothing, jewellery, furniture, glassware, ceramics, glassware and silver. Artefacts of international origin are also on display, most notably The Fonthill Vase, a Chinese porcelain vase presented in 1338 by the Chinese Emperor to Pope Benedict XII. Find the museum on the red Luas line or avail of the free car parking on site. QJLK

19th Century building whose façade replicates that of the National History Museum and new Millennium Wing creates a striking contemporary edge. The Gallery houses the national collection of Irish art and work by European Masters including Gainsborough, Goya and Picasso. At the benefactor’s stipulation to preserve the masterpieces, the Turner collection goes on display every January. Jack B. Yeats, the great 20th Century Irish artist and brother of poet Wiliam B. Yeats, heads up the indigenous collection, and changing exhibitions keep culture lovers coming back for more. QMon-Sat 09:30 - 17:30, Thur 09:30 - 20:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:30. Free. Donations welcome. JK National Wax Museum - PLUS B-2, Foster Place, off College Green, Temple Bar, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 8373, www. waxmuseumplus.ie. Housed in Natural History C-2/3, Merrion Square, D2. Opened the historic landmark Armoury in 1857, two years before Darwin’s The Origin of the Building, take a journey through Species was first published, this purpose-built museum Irish history and meet figures is the oldest in Ireland. Famous for its Victorian cabinet from its literary, legendary, po- style, the museum has over 2m specimens of which ap- litical and entertainment worlds, proximately 10,000 animals are on display. These not including Thin Lizzy frontman Phil only cover animals native to Ireland but also the rest Lynott (pic). The atmospheric vaults are the ideal location of the world including species that are extinct, rare or for The Chamber of Horrors. And kids can experience the endangered. The insect collection is the most extensive mystery of Gulliver’s Travels, The Magical Tunnel of four and accounts for approximately half of all specimens. It is worlds and daily puppet shows. Get interactive in the sci- a wonderful place to spend an afternoon. QJ ence room that celebrates Irish inventions and inventors. And if you dream of being a real life superstar, make a All Museums tel. (+353)(0)1 677 7444, www. start in the Wax Factor video studio. Find its location on museum.ie. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. Temple Bar map (p.37). Q10:00 - 19:00. Adults €12, U13 Closed Mon. Free. €8, student €10, senior citizen €9, U4 free, 2+2 €35. J

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Parks & Gardens Dublin Zoo A-1, Phoenix Park, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 474 Merrion Square C-2/3, D2. In a city renowned for its 8900, www.dublinzoo.ie. Only 3km from the City Centre Georgian architecture, this has to be the era’s showpiece in the vast Phoenix Park, the zoo’s 30 acres take you on a square - and certainly the city’s largest. It is framed on three voyage of discovery from the fringes of the Arctic to the Plains sides by beautifully maintained Georgian houses, and on the of Africa via Indian Rainforest. Today’s zoo has transformed fourth by the Natural History Museum, National Art Gallery from a menagerie that mirrored its Victorian heritage of and the garden of Leinster House, the Irish Parliament. Once animals displayed as curiosities, to a place where the joy of inside the park, look for the recumbent statue of Oscar learning about wildlife and conservation is at the heart of Wilde who lived at No. 1 Merrion Square. Other famous everything. It is recognised as one of the most modern in residents included WB Yeats, who resided at No. 82, and Europe - and is increasingly an integral part of European Zoo 19th Century MP and champion of Catholic Emancipation breeding programmes. Crucially, though, it’s a great day out Daniel O’Connell. Walking around its perimeter you will see for all the family. Lions and tigers, gorillas, chimpanzees and a wide variety of those famous multi-hued Georgian doors, orangutans, rare monkeys, rhinos, hippos, giraffes and many any of which bear plaques commemorating their well-known more exotic and endangered species can all be seen. And residents. It’s a perfect spot for tourists to sit down, have there’s also beautiful baby Asian elephant, Asha - the first some lunch and plan their next sightseeing adventures. On of her species born on Irish soil. As well as the multitude of Sun from 10:00 - 18:30, the railings of the park become an animals, children will love the pets corner, city farm and the art gallery with all paintings available for sale. If you have safari train ride around the African Plains. Gift shops, a Café an eye for upcoming talent, you could well come away with and several picnic areas ensure sustenance, souvenirs and your very own treasure. All artists are listed alphabetically snack stops are available at every turn. QOpen daily 09:30 on www.merrionsquareart.com. - 18:00. Last admittance strictly 1hr before closing. Adult €15.50, Senior Citizen €12.50, Student €12.50, U16 €11, National Botanic Gardens off B-1, Botanic Rd, U3 Free. Family rates available. Glasnevin, D9, tel. (+353)(0)1 804 0300, www.botan- icgardens.ie. Almost 20 hectares of beautifuly landscaped Garden of Remembrance D-4, Parnell Square, D1. Just gardens create a colourful kaleidoscope of indigenous off O’Connell Street is this small and peaceful park where a and international plants at this, Ireland’s horticultural hub. sculpture of Irish legend the Children of Lir - turned into swans Founded in 1795, the Gardens are 3.5km north-west of by a jealous stepmother - overlooks a crucifix-shaped mosaic Dublin and make a great daytrip, particularly if teamed with pond. Opened in 1966 on the 50th anniversary of the Easter a trip to neighbouring . Whether a floral Rising, the park is dedicated to those who died in the pursuit aficionado or not, just walking around the grounds brings of Irish freedom. As the name suggests, this is a tranquil place tranquillity to the soul. Glasshouses, statues and garden where you can reflect on life and take a welcome break from features, along with thousands of beautiful plants, reveal a the noise and bustle of the city. different vista at every turn. Tours are available - with times

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Visit Ireland Travel B/C-2, Discover Ireland Centre, Suffolk St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 605 7702. These much-lauded, award- winning tours allow you to explore every picturesque corner of Ireland in an extremely enjoyable, informative and stress-free way. All tours depart from central Dublin each morning, leaving you back in time for dinner, relax- ation and maybe a Guinness or two. Choose from one to 10 day tours covering everywhere from the world-famous Giant’s Causeway and Belfast city in the north, the Cliffs of Moher and Aran Islands in the west and the Ring of Kerry in the south. Many other options are available, so call in and chat to Paddy and the team at their Dublin Tourist Office desk, or give them a call to book your next magnificent journey. Q Mon-Sat 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 10:30 - 15:00. National Botanic Gardens

posted in the Visitors Centre which also has a display, Paul II celebrate mass in 1979. At 62m high, the Welling- restaurant and head of a Giant Irish Deer. QMon-Fri 09:00 ton Monument in the south-east of the park is Europe’s - 17:00, Sat & Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Group tours €2, free Sun largest obelisk. Formerly in the Guinness family, the 78 12:00 and 14:30. Car Park €2. LK acre Farmleigh estate is home to the beautifully restored Farmleigh House, tel. (+353)(0)1 815 5900, where Phoenix Park A-2, Parkgate St, D7, tel. (+353)(0)1 visiting VIPs overnight, important government meetings are 677 0095, www.phoenixpark.ie. Just north of the River held and the public can enjoy tours, events and occasional Liffey from Heuston Station is Europe's largest enclosed food markets. Across the road from the US Ambassador’s urban park and twice the size of New York’s Central Park. Residence is perhaps the park’s most significant building Its sprawling 712 hectares are dotted with ornamental Áras an Uachtaráin, tel. (+353)(0)1 617 1000, official gardens, monuments, a cricket pitch, football pitches, polo residence of the President of Ireland. Free guided tours club and nature trails. Dublin Zoo is here, and the animal are held every Sat on a first come, first served basis and quota is further enhanced with grazing livestock, and a herd tickets are available at the Park’s Visitor Centre. QVisi- of wild Fallow deer. The large white Papal Cross marks the tor Centre open daily 09:30 - 17:30. Follow sign from the spot where over one million people came to see Pope John Phoenix Monument.

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Dublin's Paper Trail From the Book of story The Dead. Fittingly, the statue was unveiled on Kells to Marian Bloomsday 1990 and the bridge opened on Bloomsday Keyes, through 2003. the centuries Playwrights Samuel Beckett (1906-89) and Seán Ireland has em- O'Casey (1880-1964) have been afforded the same braced all things accolades, with the Seán O'Casey Bridge opening in literary. And with 2005 and rather more dramatic Samuel Beckett Bridge Dublin's UNESCO four years later. Both can be found at the Docklands end City of Litera- of the Liffey. Beckett is best remembered for his tragi- ture designation, comedy play Waiting for Godot. And socialist O'Casey's there has never most noted works include The Plough and the Stars been a better and The Shadow of a Gunman. time for Ireland's In songwriting, capital to cel- a lifesize sculp- ebrate this rich ture of Thin Lizzy cultural legacy. frontman Phil Tourists can fol- Lynott (1949- low the paper trail 86) stands out- by starting with a side Bruxelles visit to the afore- bar in Harry St, mentioned Book Joyce admires the Spire off Grafton St. of Kells (p.27), a Author of play historically important 8th Century tome on permanent She Stoops To exhibition at . The College itself was Conquer, Oli- founded by Queen Elizabeth 1 in the 16th Century and its ver Goldsmith many famous literary alumni include Oscar Wilde, Samuel (1730-74), is on Beckett and Jonathan Swift. College Green. Speaking of Swift Writer and Irish (1667-1745), your Republican next port of call Brendan Be- should be Saint han (1923-64), Patrick's Cathe- whose works dral (p.23) where include play The the author of Gul- Quare Fellow liver's Travels was and autobio- Wilde rocks Dean from 1713 to graphical book 1745 and is buried. Borstal Boy, can be found at Royal Canal, Upper Dorset An exhibition tells St. And Oscar Wilde (1854-1900), famed writer of such his fascinating story. classics as The Importance of Being Earnest and The Then pass by The Picture of Dorian Gray, lounges on a rock on Merrion Abbey theatre (p.9) Square Park. whose co-founder Contemporary Irish writers, such as Keyes, Roddy Doyle, was celebrated poet Seamus Heaney and Maeve Binchy continue to shape and playwright WB the island's literary map and consolidate their home- Yeats (1865-1939). land's status as a world literature heavyweight. And who The Dublin Writ- knows who'll be joining Yeats, Shaw, Beckett and Heaney Glasnevin Cemetery ers Museum (p.26) as a future Irish-born Nobel laureates in Literature and and James Joyce add to Dublin's literary attractions. Centre (p.28) unveil the stories of many of Ireland's foremost scribes and are must-sees for all bookworms, as is Glasnevin Cemetery (p.28) where several ac- claimed Irish writers are buried. The George Bernard Shaw Birthplace at 33 Synge Street is dedicated to the Pygmalion playwright's (1856-1950) life and times (open June-August). And Dracula novelist Bram Stoker (1847-1912) was born at Number 15, Marino Crescent, Clontarf, Co. Dublin. The house is still there but not ac- cessible to the public. You can, however, take a stroll in nearby Bram Stoker Park. Dotted throughout the city are sculptures and landmarks honouring our greatest writers. Near the Spire stands James Joyce (1882-1941), writer of such seminal nov- els as Dubliners, A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man, and Ulysses which is celebrated every June 16 on Bloomsday. The James Joyce Bridge straddles the River Liffey and faces the house where he set his short Samuel Beckett Bridge

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St. Stephen’s Green B/C-3, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 475 7816, www.heritageireland.ie. MLuas St. Stephen's Green. At the top of Grafton Street is undoubtedly one of Dub- lin’s top attractions and arguably Ireland’s most prominent Victorian park. Once the domain of the city’s well-to-do, this 22acre park was opened to the public and re-designed in the late 19th Century, with help from the Guinness family. Enter the Grafton Street end through the Fusilier’s Arch or “Traitors Gate” which commemorates the Royal Dublin Fusiliers who died during the Second Boer War. Other memorials of note include a Wolfe Tone statue and Famine sculpture (known by some as ’Tonehenge’ on account of their stark stone design), James Joyce bust, and the Yeats Garden with Henry Moore sculpture. Children love feeding the ducks in the large lake which is crossed by Dublin’s ’other’ O’Connell Bridge.

War Memorial Gardens South Circular Rd, Island- bridge, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 0236, www.heritageire- land.ie. The names of the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in WWl are recorded in eight volumes housed in the granite Bookrooms of these graceful 20 acre gardens. Situated near Phoenix Park’s landmark obelisk, the Gardens were designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens (who also designed London’s Cenotaph) and laid out by an equal contingent of ex-British Army and Irish National Army servicemen. The Sunken Rose Garden, Irish granite War Stone, Cross of Sacrifice, and lily ponds and fountains fed from the nearby Liffey lend gravitas to the elegant surroundings. After decades of war, abandonment and erosion the Gardens were brought back to their former glory and - for the first time in their history - “officially” opened on 1 July 2006 - the 90th anniversary of the Battle of the Somme. The dedication was presided over by former Irish President Mary McAleese and attended by diginitaries from both sides of the border, representing both communities. Guided Tours and viewings of the Bookrooms can be arranged in advance. Q Mon - Fri 08:00, Sat & Sun 10:00. Closed according to renovated Docklands. The tours take place in reconditioned daylight hours. Free. L amphibious WWII vehicles called “Dukws” which also took part in the D-Day landings at Normandy. Each tour lasts around 75mins (55mins on land and 20mins in Grand Canal Harbour). Tours Tours dep. Stephen’s Green North, near Grafton St.. Look for City Sightseeing Tours B-2, Desk 1, Dublin Tourism the Viking Splash Tours bus stop just behind the taxi rank and Centre, Suffolk St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 605 7705, www. water fountain. Q Tours daily. Adult €20, Student/Senior €18, irishcitytours.com. These hop-on hop-off 90min tours have 3-12 €10, 13-17 €15, 2+3 €60. Children U3 can travel but local guides providing entertaining commentary on their two must alight during water section of the tour. routes. The 24hr ticket and 25 stops ensures you see most sights without having to stretch your legs. Q09:15 - 18:00 (summer), 09:30 - 16:30 (winter) every 8-15mins from 14 Dublin 1916 Rebel Walking Tour Upr. O’Connell St. Adult €18/16, 2 x U14 free. with each paying adult. B-2, dept. Sinn Fein Book- shop, 58 Parnell Sq (near Liffey River Cruises B-2, The Boardwalk, Bachelors Parnell Monument, top of Walk, D1, MLUAS Middle Abbey St., tel. (+353)(0)1 473 O’Connell St), tel. (+353) 0000, www.liffeyrivercruises.com. These 45min tours (0)1 814 8542, www. cruise daily along the River Liffey from March-Nov. Custom- sinnfeinbookshop.com. built and wheelchair accessible The Spirit of Docklands Follow in the footsteps of boat departs from Bachelors Walk and takes a guided journey Michael Collins, James Con- through the history of Dublin from the invasion of the Vikings nolly and Pádraig Pearse as over 1000 years ago to the development of the city’s thriving Irish republicans recount docklands area. QTours daily. Adults €14, Conc. €12, U18 Ireland’s fight for freedom in €10, 4-15 €8, U4 free. J these 90min historic walking tours. Learn the story behind Viking Splash Tours C-3, dep. Stephen’s Green North, the 1916 Easter Rising when Garden of Remembrance tel. (+353)(0)1 707 6000, www.vikingsplash.com. the Irish Citizen Army and the Chitty Chitty Bang Bang has nothing on this beast which has Irish Volunteers came together as the Irish Republican been roaming Dublin’s streets and seas for around a decade. Army (IRA) to take on the might of the British Empire. The Sporting a Viking Helmet in homage to the city’s Scandinavian tour takes in the events leading up to - and following - the origins, and roaring at passers by like a pillager possessed, Rising, and visits places where Ireland’s history unfolded tourists take in land-based sights such as St. Patrick’s and, in the words of Yeats, “a terrible beauty was born”. Cathedral, Christ Church Cathedral, Trinity College, Leinster QMon-Fri: 11:30, Sat. by appointment. €10. House and Merrion Square before dipping into the water at the

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com February - March 2012 34 What to see

My Goodness, it’s Guinness

Guinness Storehouse A-2, St. James’s Gate, D8, ravenous among tel. (+353)(0)1 408 4800, www.guinness-store- you, the Brewery house.com. A gargantuan ’glass’ of Guinness greets Bar serves a great guests as they enter this cathedral to the world’s most range of global cui- famous brew. Rising through the Storehouse Atrium’s sine and traditional seven storeys, from the ground floor to the GRAVITY Irish dishes, many Bar, this hollow steel-beamed structure would - if it were of which are infused made of glass - hold 14.3m pints of the black stuff. Now with the unmistak- that’s some night out. able Guinness taste. The Guinness Storehouse dates back to 1904 when it The pièce de résis- was instrumental in the fermenting process. It was later tance of any Store- converted into this magnificent visitor experience and house visit has to opened to the public in 2000. Located at the heart of the be a trip to the sev- sprawling Guinness complex, the building brims with the enth floor GRAV- enticing aroma of the brewing stout. ITY Bar, where a complimentary pint The fully-rounded visitor experience begins with an in- of creamy Guinness troduction to the four magic ingredients; water, barley, can be savoured hops and yeast. Next a virtual master brewer explains against a stunning the alchemy that transforms them into the creamy pint. 360° backdrop of its home city. With good timing, you could be one of 100 visitors chosen each week to Start the Brew with the touch of a computer Back at the ground floor, the flagship Guinness Store button. Here, too, you can Taste the Brew under the sells a vast array of branded merchandise and memora- professional guidance of the Tasting Team. Histories of bilia, and is always bustling with enthusiastic visitors keen the transportation process and the art of coopering to bag a few eye-catching collectibles. (barrel-making) are also revealed. And a large projector illustrates the international reach of this iconic drink. The Guinness Storehouse is a 15min walk from the city centre. From Dame St. (outside Trinity College), follow the road, passing Christ Church on the right, leading to Thomas St. At Crane St. turn left, and at the end of the road turn right onto Market St. Alternatively catch a bus or the Luas red line to St. James stop. Drivers can use the free car park, but make sure you arrive in good time as spaces fill up very quickly. Some metered spaces are also available outside. Q Daily 09:30 - 17:00. Adult €14.40, 18+ with Student ID €10.60, Senior Citizen €10.50, U-18 with student ID €8.50, 6-12 €4.80, 2+4 €32.50. 10% adult discount online.

Just as famous as the drink itself has been Guinness’s ground-breaking advertising campaigns. The second floor is dedicated to this creative genius, with posters, TV ads and branded memorabilia bringing decades of award- winning campaigns together in one unique art collection.

The third floor’s interactive Choice Zone concentrates on the effects of drink and reminds us all to enjoy without excess. On the next level is a history of the building as told through copies of photos and documents from the extensive Guinness Archive.

Hone your pint pouring skills - no easy feat for any Guin- ness virgin - at the fifth floor’s Source Bar where you can also sample various Guinness incarnations - from the origi- nal Extra Stout to the brewhouse series. And for the more

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com February - March 2012 WHERE LEGEND LIVES

Visit the magical home of GUINNESS in Dublin.

Let gravity work its magic and pull you towards Ireland’s No. 1 International visitor attraction. Craft your own pint, enjoy the Gravity Bar’s spectacular views of Dublin and let 250 years of Guinness heritage slowly settle into your heart and soul.

Book online at www.guinness-storehouse.com and get 10% off adult tickets. The GUINNESS and GUINNESS STOREHOUSE words and and The GUINNESS and STOREHOUSE words trademarks. (c) Guinness & Co. 2012. associated logos are

Guinness Storehouse®, St James’s Gate, Dublin 8. Tel. 00353 1 408 4800 Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com February - March 2012 36 What to see

Old Jameson Distillery

B-2, Bow St, Smithfield, Dublin 7, tel. (+353)(0)1 807 2355, book online at www.tours.jamesonwhis- key.com. MLUASSmithfield.

Walk across the see-through floor - beneath which lie original stone foundations - and enter the evocative world of John Jameson, a Scottish migrant who began making whiskey here in 1780. When a blight destroyed French vineyards in 1858, drinkers turned to whiskey and Jameson reaped the financial rewards.

Towards the end of the 19th Century, the distillery was producing 10% of Ireland’s incredible 90% domination of the international whiskey market. The onset of US Prohibition and Irish Independence, however, ended Jameson’s stronghold in the American and British Empire markets.

In 1966 Ireland’s four remaining distilleries, including Jameson’s, united to form Irish Distillers (itself bought over by Pernod Ricard in 1988). Less than a decade later, Jameson opened a modern distillery in Midleton, Co. Cork and retained Dublin’s site for vatting. Today Jameson remains a local legend and is the world’s bestselling Irish whiskey. its exposed brick, glistening chandelier and Jameson family portraits. Enjoy a sumptuous lunch, dessert or As with all Irish whiskeys, Jameson is triple distilled, dinner- some brandishing that Jameson flavour - or giving it a distinctly smooth flavour. Blends of varying try an authentic Irish coffee or sophisticated whiskey ages of maturation are produced by the company whose cocktail at JJ’s Bar. bottles bear the Jameson family motto “Sine Metu” or “Without Fear”. At this atmosphere-steeped visitor And for a truly unique souvenir, treat yourself or a super centre, tour guides take small groups of visitors through special mate to a personalised bottle of Jameson Dis- the interactive whiskey-making process. tillery Reserve (12 Year Old) which can only be bought at the exclusive Jameson gift shop. Discover how the finely-honed skills of malting, ferment- ing, distilling and maturation transform water, barley The distillery is right beside the Smithfield red Luas and yeast into this famous drink - minus the Angel’s Line stop making it very easy to reach. QMon-Sat Share... Enormous copper stills, original shoes worn by 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Last tour 17:15. the distillers, and Smithy, the distillery’s famous mouse- Adult €13, Conc. €9.60, Children €7.70 Family (2+3) munching cat, are all part of this eclectic tour experi- €29. Book online for 10% discount. ence. At the end, everyone receives a complimentary Jameson - straight or mixed to your preference - and Irish Nights at the Old Jameson Distillery volunteers get the chance to earn a coveted whiskey The popular Irish Shindig Nights return to the Old Jameson tasting certificate. Distillery from April-October. A celebration of all things Irish, the Nights include a tour of the distillery, exceptional live The Mezzanine level 3rd Still Restaurant - named after entertainment and a four course meal made using fresh the whiskey’s famous triple maturation process - over- Irish ingredients... and all, of course, accompanied by the looks the bijou yet effortlessly glamorous entrance with finest Irish whiskey. The Irish Shindig Nights begin with a guided tour of the Distillery followed by fresh local cuisine with notable whis- key elements. How about Jameson infused Irish Smoked Salmon for starters and marinated Wexford strawberries on fluffy Pavlova with Jameson Chantilly cream for dessert? And your choice of mains is between Irish chicken fillet stuffed with sage and Irish white pudding stuffing or flash seared fillet of Kilmore Quay cod with lemon caper butter. After dinner, celebrated musicians the Jameson Players perform their mix of traditional and contemporary Irish music, while the Claddagh Dancers bring an exhilarating energy to the performance. Be warned audience participa- tion is encouraged! The Shindig nights take place every Thursday, Friday and Saturday evening, from 19:00 - 23:00. Price, including tour, Jameson drink, four course meal and live entertainment, is €60 per person. Book online on www.tours.jameson- whiskey.com for a 20% discount!

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com FebruaryApril - March - May 2012 temple bar 37

This cultural, entertainment and imbibement hub attracts swathes of city newcomers. Lying south of the Liffey, between Westmoreland and Fishamble Streets, its cobbled thoroughfares reveal boutique hotels, speciality shops, boho cafés and those all-important pubs. Meeting House and Temple Bar Squares provide further congregational opportunities for lost or weary souls, and the former's canopies make for eye-catching cover. The area’s share of restaurants, galleries, theatres, shops and an arthouse cinema reaffirm Dublin’s cultured vibe. Mingle with fellow foodies at the Temple Bar Food Market (Sat 10:00 - 16:30). Then get with the beautiful people at the Designer Mart at Cow’s Lane in Old City Temple Bar (Sat 10:00 - 17:00). And complete your super market sweep at the reassuringly erudite Temple Bar Book Market (Sat & Sun 11:00 - 18:00). Some nice second-hand CD shops and a fair few funky clothes emporiums add to the eclectic retail experience (see Crow Street feature overleaf). Temple Bar is as much about the fun and laid-back daytime vibe as it is the well-established nightlife scene. Explore its cultural side and discover more to this party hub than meets your average guidebook.

Button Factory Curved St, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 9202, www.buttonfactory.ie. Recently redone and all the better for it, The Button Factory boasts a nicer layout, décor and, most importantly, sound system. As well as an intimate music venue, it also holds great indie-style club nights. As you might imagine, it’s a pretty young crowd- mostly students.

Irish Film Institute (IFI) 6 Eustace St, tel. (+353) (0)1 679 3477, www.irishfilm.ie. Just off Dame St. is this cinema with an extremely 'popular with the in-crowd bar', res- taurant and bookshop. This old Quaker Meeting House was 39 East Essex St, tel. (+353) transformed in the ’90s to become a cinema and film archive (0)1 881 9613, www.projectartscentre.ie. Dance, music, centre for Ireland. Independent and foreign language films are theatre and the arts call this contemporary creative space usually exclusively screened at this sleek venue. Festivals and home. and Gabriel Byrne perfected their acting special seasons showcasing international cinema, make the skills here. And the theatre has also showcased the writings IFI a great place to see diverse and intelligent films and mingle of acclaimed Irish film directors Jim Sheridan and Neil Jordan. with fellow movie buffs. Ark, A Cultural Centre for Children 11a Eustace St, New Theatre 43 East Essex St, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 tel. (+353)(0)1 670 7788, www.ark.ie. This innovative 3361, www.thenewtheatre.com. This intimate theatre is creative space is Europe’s first custom-built arts centre for found by entering Connolly Books in Temple Bar. Acclaimed children by children. This Temple Bar gem combines galleries, Irish actor Ronan Wilmot is the theatre’s Joint Artistic Director. workshops, an outdoor amphitheatre and indoor theatre Perfect for smaller performances, its location in the heart of designed to entertain and enlighten young people aged 3-14. Temple Bar and opposite the Clarence Hotel ensures a steady Check out its imaginative programme and give the kids a stream of clued-up culture lovers. holiday to remember too.

Map courtesy TASCQ, www.visit-templebar.com

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com FebruaryApril - March - May 2012 38 CROW STREET - TEMPLE BAR dublin daytrips

Caffé Italiano B-2, 7 Crow St, tel. (+353)(0) 86 846 7256. Tucked away in the tiny Crow Street Bazaar is this lovely, cosy, quintessentially Italian little café. It’s a lovely place to retreat from the hustle and bustle of Temple Bar. The counter is on one side of the narrow walkway, while seating on the other makes you feel like you are in a graffiti’d square in a cool corner of Rome. The coffee is of course delicious, but do try it with one of the Sicilian cannoli delica- cies. If you want something more substantial there’s soup and paninis on offer, but we recommend the Arancini - rice cakes filled with risotto, bolognese or ham and cheese. The sign on the wall says ‘Eat Italian, dream Italian’ - you could almost stay here long enough to do both. Q Mon - Sat 08:00 - 18:00. €. J

Casa Rebelde B-2, 6 Crow St, tel. (+353)(1) 677 9234, www.casarebelde.com. Catering for the football fan who wants to show their love for the game but doesn’t necessarily want to tie their club colours too obviously to the mast, this chic little shop provides subtle and smart football shirts, t- shirts and tracksuit tops that will show your support, but won’t get you turned away from any bars or clubs for wearing them. In-the-know references to the beautiful game that will get you nods of approval from fellow aficianados, as well as classic and obscure shirts from across the world and decades, make this a great place to pick up something different, and it’s the perfect spot to find a present for that quietly obsessive fan in your life. Q Mon - Wed 12:00 - 18:00, Thur 12:00 - 20:00, Fri - Sun 12:00 - 18:00. J

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We Dubliners are a spirited, enterprising bunch, and while our recent economic woes have been much-publicised, there is something happening in our fair city that is bucking the trend. And when things start to happen in Dublin, they usually start happening in Temple Bar - the epicentre of enterprise - where cool meets customer. There are more savvy entrepreneurs per square foot here than anywhere else, and Crow Street is the epitome of this spirit. An eclectic mix of independent businesses from cafés to chic boutiques and vintage shops (see our Vintage Shopping section on p.43 for full details of the excellent independent store Fluorescent Elephant) have sprung up here like flowers amongst the cobblestones, and true to the Temple Bar ethos, they offer a vibrant variety to the customer looking to find something that little bit cooler in our city. Here's a sprinking of shops to inspire a detour down this iconic thoroughfare. Enjoy the trip.

Body Shock B-2, 6 Crow St, tel. (+353)(0)1 672 7602, www.bodyshock.ie. If you’re a visitor to Dublin and in the market for a piercing, but worried about get- ting it done in an unfamiliar city, worry no more. This is Ireland’s first professional body piercing studio, and when the owner has spent years compiling medical and anatomical knowledge to become an expert in how the human body reacts to certain metals and chemicals, you know you’re in good hands. Add to that the most up to date techniques, professionalism and friendliness, and a focus on sterilisation and aftercare, and you get a safe, professional service. All you have to do is make sure you stay brave. The walls are adorned with displays of the world’s best piercings to give you inspiration, but whatever it is you decide to do, this is the place to get it done. Body Shock also runs the Dublin International Tattoo Conven- tion. Q Mon - Sat 12:00 - 18:00. J

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Glendalough St. Kevin’s Bus Service C-2, tel. (+353)(0)1 281 8119, www.glendaloughbus.com. For over eight decades this 100% Irish, family-run business has been spiriting visitors the 30miles from Dublin to the Co. Wicklow village of . Named after, and inspired by, Glendalough’s St. Kevin, the 80min modern coach tour follows a picture postcard route to the 6th Century site where the Saint established a Christian settlement. Stunning scenery unfolds as you head south along the coast to Bray, then inland and upward through the Great and Little Sugar Loaf mountains. Yet more mountains, lakes and heather-clad plains dip in and out of view as you wend your way to Roundwood - said to be Ireland’s highest village - and past Annamoe Valley and the village of Laragh where fantastic views of Glendalough and its 33m Round Tower are revealed. Once at Glendalough, take time to explore the seven churches of St. Kevin - where a Monastic settlement was founded - and the shores of the village’s two enchanting lakes. Q Year round daily: 11:30 & 18:00. March-Sept: Mon-Fri 11:30 & 18:00, Sat, Sun & Public Holidays: 11:30 & 19:00. Buses dept. Dublin Bus Terminus, Dawson St. (opp. Man- sion House). Tickets can be purchased on-board the bus. Adult/U14 €20/12 return, €13/7 single. Dun Laoghaire and Dalkey Tucked beneath the Dublin Mountains on the southern fringes of Dublin Bay lies Dun Laoghaire, a popular seaside town seven miles from Dublin city centre on the DART line. The resort became the city dwellers' getaway when the railway arrived in 1834. Its name comes from Dun - Irish for fort - and King Laoghaire (pronounced Leary) said to be the 5th century son of St. Patrick's captor, Niall of the Nine Hostages. Malahide's Coast and Castle Built in the early 19th century of nearby Dalkey granite, the Many Dublin visitors make this final stop on the Northern harbour's East and West Piers jut out like giant pincers nip- DART line their out-of-city base. And its relaxing coastal ping the Irish sea. Take a stroll along the East Pier and treat location, proximity to Howth (see p.39) and access to the yourself to ice-cream from Teddy's - a bit of a local institution. city make it easy to understand why. Dun Laoghaire's sailing status is further represented by The Grand Hotel is something of a Malahide land- the Ferry Terminal complex (Stena sailings to Holyhead), mark. Built in the 19th Century, the Grand gained 700-berth Marina (Ireland's largest), several yacht clubs and popularity with the arrival of the railway... then the the National Maritime Museum. tourists. Evidence of Dun Laoghaire's Victorian origins also includes Home to musicians Adam Clayton (U2) and Ronan Keating elegant seafront terraces, the People's Park and a beauti- (Boyzone) and actor Brendan Gleeson, Malahide’s village-like fully restored cast iron fountain. The 19th Century County atmosphere and seaside location ensure its status as one Hall clock tower is another local landmark, as is the mod- of Ireland’s most affluent addresses. A stroll around town ern Pavilion Centre with its shops, restaurants, bars and shows off cute boutiques, tasty delis, trad bars and some Pavilion Theatre. fine dining options. And wannabe P. Diddys can gaze longingly Famous Irish writers James Joyce and Samuel Beckett at the yachts bobbing in the 350-berth Marina. have strong associations with the area. Beckett was born in But it’s a much more historic VIP who gave Malahide its must- nearby Foxrock and Joyce set the opening chapter of Ulysses see status. Richard Talbot, a knight of Henry ll, accompanied in Sandycove's Martello Tower - now the small James Joyce the king to Ireland in 1174 and was given the “lands and Museum. harbour of Malahide” (sure beats a souvenir shillelagh). On Further along the coastline, the heritage town of Dalkey is this land was built Malahide Castle which his family called a chic seaside destination that's home to Bono, The Edge, ’home’ for an unprecedented 791 years - save for an eleven film director Neil Jordan, author Maeve Binchy and singer year hiatus courtesy of Oliver Cromwell. Van Morrison. Don't miss 15th Century Dalkey Castle and In 1975, due to crippling inheritance taxes, descendent Rose Heritage Centre with its living history performances. The Talbot sold the Castle and its magnificent Demesne to the cobbled-street town is also a haven for boutique shopping, Irish State. Today the Castle is undergoing a major €10m cafés and restaurants. renovation and is due to open in late summer 2012 with If visiting at the weekend indulge your taste-buds at the Avoca shop and restaurant as its anchor tennant. When it CoCo Farmers Markets, held at Dalkey (Fri), does, highlights will, once again, include the Great Hall and (Sat) and the People's Park (Sun). And nearby Dundrum Oak Room. has Ireland's largest shopping centre. DART, Luas and Bus Meanwhile, visitors can continue to enjoy its 250 acres of routes all serve the area. To find out more log onto www. parkland including children’s playground. For more info on visitdublin.com/dlr. Malahide and the Castle log onto www.visitdublin.ie.

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Howth Where the Dublin Bay coastline juts out at Howth Head, 13km north of the city, you’ll find this quaint, prosperous fishing town. At the end of one of two Northern DART lines, Howth (rhymes with both) is easily accessible from the city (c.30mins) and extremely worthy of a daytrip. Views from Howth Head are wide-sweeping and include Ireland’s Eye, an uninhabited island with ruins of a 19th Martello Tower and 8th century church. Esteemed residents - past and present - of this exclusive piece of Irish real estate include U2’s Larry Mullen, Thin Lizzy frontman Phil Lynott and Eurovision legend Johnny Logan. Highlights of a trip to Howth include the East and West Piers, Baily Lighthouse, 14th Century St. Mary’s Church, Martello Tower Radio Museum and 15th Century Howth Castle. The village has several fine bars and restaurants, among them Tophouse Krugers, Big Blue, Caffe Caira, Ella, The Cock Tavern, Okra Green Asian Cuisine and Beshoffs, and its fishing heritage ensures locally-caught seafood is often on the menu. Check in at The Deer Park Hotel or one of several B&Bs and give yourself more time to explore the area. To find out more, visit www.fingaldublin.ie or www.howthismagic.com. Howth Food & Drink

Big Blue 30 Church St, Howth, tel. (+353)(0)1 832 1007, http://bigbluehowth.com/. This Spanish Tapas Bar and Restaurant serves up the real deal, with an authentic collection of delicious Iberian treats, including Andalucia Chicken Wings, Patatas Bravas and Chorizo a la Cidra, cooked to order by Head Chef Ivan Villaneuva. Turf fires and a bird's eye view of Howth harbour and Rathfarnham Castle Irelands Eye make this a special spot. Live Spanish music, flamenco dancing, and twice monthly Paella Nights get the party going - add a jug of sangria and you’re away - olé! QWed-Sun 13:00 - 22:00, €€-€€€.

Cock Tavern 18 Church St, Howth, Co Dublin, tel. (+353)(0)1 839 5876. Once a favourite watering hole of Thin Lizzy’s Phil Lynott, this traditional pub sits on a small hill in the heart of Howth village. The music connection continues with past patrons including The Pogues' Shane Magowan, and Slash from Guns N' Roses who came in homage to the Thin Lizzy frontman. Snuggle up beside the open fire, enjoy a soothing Irish Coffee and spark up a con- versation with the locals. Recently refurbished and under new management, the Tavern prides itself on providing the cheapest pint in Dublin. A fine beer garden, games room Rathfarnham, D14, tel. (+353)(0)1 493 9461, and plenty of big screens for major sporting events makes www.heritageireland.ie/en/Dublin/Rathfarnham- it a welcoming spot and a far cry from the pomp of certain Castle/. The toys are back in town! Classically associ- city bars. Definitely worth dropping in for a pint... but don’t ated with architecture and a fine collection of family forget the last DART back to Connolly Station is at 23:55. portraits, this magnificent building, c.8km south of Dublin Q Mon-Thur 10:00 - 23:30, Fri & Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun city centre, now houses the Berkeley Costume and Toy 12:30 - 23:00. E Collection. Made up of 18th and 19th Century toys, dolls and costumes, the collection tells a social history of its Ella 7 Main St, Howth, Co. Dublin, tel. (+353) own and breathes life into the Castle’s grand interiors. (0)1 839 6264, www.ellawinebar.com. The stylish This splendorous 18th Century building dates back to interior, jazz and blues soundtrack and locally sourced the Elizabethan period and was built to protect Dublin food make for an enjoyable epicurean experience at this from attack from Wicklow clans. Immerse yourself in chic restaurant. And, if you’re seeking out sustinance at its rich history and, if the toys aren’t enough to keep a good value price, the lunches and daily Value Meals are the little ones occupied, head for the playground in the well worth a gander. There’s a large choice of affordable Castle grounds, then refuel at the Stuart and Chambers wines, available by the glass or bottle, too.QThur-Sat Tearooms. Q Mon-Sun 09:30 - 17:30 (Summer), Wed- 12:45 - 14:45. Dinner: Mon-Sat 18:00 - late. €€€-€€€€. Sun 10:30 - 17:00 (Winter). Free. LK

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012

Shopping 41

Chic boutiques, designer department stores, vintage finds and sprawling malls, Dublin has the lot. The main pedestrian Sinn Fein Bookshop shopping strip is Grafton Street, and Temple Bar has some cute one-off shops worth exploring, too. Here's a quick guide Sinn Féin Bookshop & Coffee Shop B-2, 58 to the main malls and souvenir must-sees. Parnell Sq, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 814 8542, www.sin- nfeinbookshop.com. This specialist bookshop stocks a wide range of gifts, books, music, movies, clothing, flags Department Stores and badges relating to Ireland’s struggle for freedom. Arnotts B-2, 12 Henry St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 805 0400, Coffee, tea, soft drinks and a selection of hot and cold www.arnotts.ie. MLuas Jervis St. Ireland’s oldest depart- snacks are available in between browsing and chatting ment store dates back to 1843 and is ranked by size alongside with the knowledgeable staff about Ireland’s history and Harrods and Selfridges in the top five stores in Ireland and tourist attractions. The Rebel Walking Tours also leave Britain. This retail giant has everything from fashion to furniture, from the shop Mon-Fri at 11:30 and Sat on request. Find linen to lingerie and even an in-house interior design consultant. it at the junction of the north end of O’Connell St. and Par- Get yourself an Irish county GAA jersey or fine local crystal as nell St, near the Parnell statue (himself a prominent Irish a truly unique souvenir. Five cafés and sandwich bars should nationalist politician) and opposite the Rotunda Hospital. stave off hunger pangs and ensure you don’t leave empty- handed. Turn left at the GPO onto Princess St. for paid parking abundance of food and drink ranges from the Bagel Factory with lifts to the store. Q09:00 - 19:00, Tue 09:30 - 19:00, Thu to Yo! Sushi and virtually every flavour in between. Park- 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.JLK ing isn’t free but you can get 3hrs for €2 - the same price as 1hr. QMon-Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Sun Brown Thomas C-2, 88-95 Grafton St, D2, tel. (+353) 10:00 - 19:00, FLK (0)1 605 6666, www.brownthomas.com. MLuas St. Ste- phen's Green. Rub designer shoulders with Dublin’s beautiful Georges Street Arcade B-2, Sth. Gt. Georges people at this glistening fashion and beauty flagship store. St, D2, www.georgesstreetarcade.ie. Dublin’s first Opened by haberdashers and general drapers Hugh Brown and purpose-built Victorian Shopping Centre dates back to James Thomas on Grafton Street in 1849, Brown Thomas is 1881. Following a devastating city fire in 1892 which de- undoubtedly Dublin’s - and Ireland’s -most famous store, with stroyed most of the building, the arcade was restored by additional dazzling branches in Galway, Limerick and Cork. Enter local tradesmen and craftspeople and, to this day, retains the paradise and immerse yourself in sophisticated threads, many of its original features. Take time to walk through and sensual lingerie and a kaleidoscope of must-have cosmetics. soak up the ambience enjoyed by previous generations There’s even a BTkids section for the junior fashionista in your of city shoppers. The variety of shops, restaurants and life... hide that piggy bank. And trendsetting teens can slink stalls - from fortune teller to fashion, fine art to flowers across the road to the younger BT2, leaving their parents to and souvenirs to accessories - is so eye-catching you can shop... or wail into their wallets. Q09:00 - 20:00, Thur & Fri spend an enjoyable afternoon browsing and buying treats 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. J

Clery & Co. B-2, 18-27 Lower O’Connell St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 878 6000, www.clerys.ie. MLuas Abbey ĒđćĆĊČY St. One of the world’s first purpose-built department stores, this retail mecca has occupied the same space since 1853. Being on Dublin’s main street, Clerys has witnessed and and ėĊĔĔĕĕ experienced its fair share of history - most significantly when it was destroyed during the 1916 Easter Rising - and is now a listed building, both for this and architecture reasons. In 2004, a €22m revamp saw the department store emerge 10% DISCOUNT WITH THIS AD butterfly-like as a bright, shiny shopping marvel. It still retains its historical grandeur and offers a great selection of fashions, furnishings and fabulous gifts. And, if you’re relocating to the city, check out its ingenious Apartment Fit-Out Package designed to take the strain out of your moving experience. Q09:00 - 19:00, Thu 09:00 - 21:00, Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. IN THE CITY CENTRE GIFTS, BOOKS, MUSIC, CLOTHING, Shopping Centres & Malls PICTURES, PRINTS, FLAGS, BADGES P Dundrum Town Centre Sandyford Rd, Dundrum, D16, ARNELL tel. (+353)(0)1 299 1700, www.dundrum.ie. MLuas WE’RE HERE Balally. This sprawling retail and entertainment complex SQUARE boasts a multiplex cinema, restaurants, bars, nightclub, BOOKS | COFFEE medical centre, hairdressers, theatre and over 160 shops West South in its purpose-built Town Square, Gallery and Five Levels of SQUARE O’CONNELL fashion, food and fun. And, although you wouldn’t know it, 58 PARNELL certain parts of the centre are still being built which, once completed, will make Dundrum Europe’s largest shopping TEL SINN FÉIN STREET Y’S HO centre. The fabulous Harvey Nichols Boutique - with its S JUR TREET PARNELL BOOKSHOP GPO Ground Floor café and signature Top Floor restaurant 58 Parnell Square, Dublin 1 and bar - and House of Fraser - including Café Mimo - are Open: Mon - Fri 8.30am - 6pm • Sat 9am - 5pm Dundrum’s main department stores. Elsewhere, many more fashion faves enhance the stylish ensemble. And an www.sinnfeinbookshop.com • [email protected]

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012 42 Shopping

for yourself... and the folks back home. And, afterwards, there are plenty of great value foodie options - from freshly Footprints Bookshop roasted coffees to gourmet global cuisine - to satisfy those post-shopping pangs. An authentic and unique retail find C-2, 3 Joyce’s Walk, 43 Talbot St, D1, tel. right in the heart of Dublin. Q09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 - (+353)(0)1 836 3764, www.scriptureunion.ie. 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. JK This inter-denominational Christian Bookshop sells a large range of Bibles, Christian Life books, Praise Jervis Shopping Centre B-2, 125 Upper Abbey St, D1, and Worship and Contemporary Christian music. tel. (+353)(0)1 878 1323, www.jervis.ie. MLuas Jervis. They also sell cards, gifts and children’s books con- This is the largest shopping centre in the city centre and is very tinuing the shop’s promotion of Scripture Union in centrally located just off O’Connell Street. The Red line Luas Ireland. Within a few minutes’ walk of Connolly Train stops outside and escalators whisk you off to its three floors - Station, BusÁras and the O’Connell Street Spire, the first two are shops, and the third restaurants. Open since this centrally located haven is also next door to 1996, all outlets overlook a Central Rotunda from which light Double T Café - ideal for yet more spiritual reflection. floods across all the floors. Retail-wise Debenhams and M&S Q Mon-Sat 10:00 - 17:00. J are the big boys, but there are lots more shopping options and many high street stalwarts. To get there find the Spire then turn down Henry Street and you can’t miss it. The large car park is accessed via Jervis St. Q 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 21:00, Irish gifts and souvenirs Fri & Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:30. JLK Carrolls Irish Gift Shop B-2, 57 Upper O’Connell St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 873 5709, www.carrollsirishgi- Moore Street Mall B-2, Parnell St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 fts.com. MLuas Abbey St. Opened since 1982, Carrolls 873 3416, www.moorestmall.com. Aiming to be Ireland’s first is an integral part of your Irish retail experience. Whether multicultural shopping centre, over 30 independent outlets and you’re looking for an Irish flag t-shirt, Kiss me I’m Irish a cosmopolitan Food Court focus on food, crafts, accessories, baseball cap or Irish sports top, this is the store for you. household goods and fashion from Africa, Asia, the Caribbean, The locals shop here, too, for patriotic gear coming up to Eastern Europe and even Ireland. Beauty products and hair salons St. Patrick’s Day or major sporting events. A great range keep you looking good, and the International Food Market (Wed, of Irish-themed CDs and DVDs make handy souvenirs 11:00 - 19:00) continues the global gourmet theme. This centre for the folks back home. And The Football Association has a lot to offer and demonstrates some of the newer influences of Ireland (FAI) Store on Westmoreland Street ensures and ethnicity in Ireland today. Find it beside Jury’s Inn Hotel. you leave brandishing the requisite array of current Q 10:00 - 20:00, Thu, & Fri 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, national/retro football kits. QMon-Wed 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Thur-Sat until 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Also at 98/99 Talbot St, 33 Lower O’Connell St, 44 Henry St, 22/23 Powerscourt Townhouse Centre B-2, 59 South Suffolk St, 17 Suffolk St, St. Stephen’s Green Shopping William St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 7000, www. Centre. J powerscourtcentre.com. Just off Grafton St. is a sophis- ticated shopping centre brimming with stylish boutiques Cathach Books C-2, 10 Duke St, off Grafton St, and chi chi Cafés. The Georgian mansion which houses tel. (+353)(0)1 671 8676, www.rarebooks.ie. In this unique retail experience was built in 1774 with gran- the land of saints, scholars and scribes, this antiquarian ite from Co. Wicklow’s Powerscourt Estate. The former bookshop stands head and shoulders above the rest. residence of MEP Lord Powerscourt (Richard Wingfield), Shelves positively heave with the works of 20th Century tours (Fri & Sat, 15:00) explain its history, 18th Century literary greats such as Wilde, Beckett, Joyce, and Yeats... life for the privileged and how the centre works around the and the shop even stocks first editions of the latter two. house, rather than the other way around. Tickets can be Specialist tomes on 17th Century Irish History and topog- bought from the Information Desk. Opened as a Shopping raphy highlight the shop’s extensive collection. Check out Centre in 1981, Powerscourt elegantly fuses independent the online searchable database to source your books of shops and galleries with upmarket high street names. The choice. And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, ask courtyard atmosphere has long been a favourite with the any of the Cunningham family who run the shop and will city’s elite, so why not join them for an afternoon of pure be more than happy to assist. If you want to bring home designer indulgence? Q 10:00-18:00, Thu 10:00-20:00, a history-steeped souvenir with reams of gravitas, there Sat 09:00-18:00, Sun 12:00-18:00. JW really is no better place to visit. QMon-Sat 9:30 - 17:45.

Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre B-2, St. Ste- Celtic Whiskey Shop & Wines on the Green C-2, phen’s Green West, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 0888, 27-28 Dawson St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 675 9744, www.stephensgreen.com. MLuas St. Stephen's www.celticwhiskeyshop.com. MLuas St. Stephen's Green. Right at the top of Grafton St , in the shadow of St. Green. At the top of Dawson St, almost opposite The Stephen’s Green’s Arch, stands this striking iron and glass Mansion House, this quaint shop stocks the city’s most shopping mecca. Always abuzz with locals and visitors, this varied collection of whiskeys, bourbons and wines. Window retail hub’s impressive interior boasts elegant balustrades, displays of aged barrels and rare bottles of spirits lure a giant centrepiece clock and gleaming glass roof and passers-by and, once inside, the advice and knowledge dome. Over 100 shops inhabit its three levels, from the of the staff is unsurpassed. Purchases, including hampers large Dunnes at the back to many smaller independent and gift boxes, can be gift-wrapped and shipped directly units dotted throughout and offering a myriad of gift good- to your house. They also hold Tastings and Masterclasses ies. Interrupt your shopping and enjoy dessert, coffee and with visiting experts from featured distilleries explaining a spot of people watching at Foodlife on the first floor. The the distilling process and how different barrels can change Luas Green Line terminates here, so whisking your booty the taste and body of the whiskeys. Connoisseurs can join back to base couldn’t be simpler. The Centre celebrated its their Whiskey Club on-line and receive advance informa- 21th birthday in 2009. Q09:00-19:00, Thu 09:00-21:00, tion about these evenings. QMon-Sat 10:30 - 20:00, Sun 11:00-18:00. JLK Sun 12:30 - 18:00.

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Dublin is a modern city but it is very much steeped in the past, and this is reflected in many of the independent vintage shops that help keep us locals looking so good. Sometimes the best treasures are well-hidden and this is true of these boutiques, particularly around the Temple Bar area, where great clothes and accessories from the 1920s to the 1980s can be found on the narrow streets and alleyways. The popularity of period dramas from Boardwalk Empire to W.E. (although let’s face it, the only thing going for the lat- ter was the costumes) has made the past the future again, and the current generation of such shops show class, style and an intoxicating coolness you can’t help but breathe in. Fine vintage!

Eager Beaver Bow Ties

Eager Beaver B-2, 17 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 3342. This place has been an established part of Temple Bar’s Crown Alley for so long the locals don’t even snigger at the name anymore. Its two floors stock a huge array of ladies and gents clothing with the emphasis on quality and style at realistic prices - everything from blouses and skirts to cords, combats and corsets, and a great line in shirts, trousers, dresses and suits from days gone by. The eclectic mix of old and new means that as well as modern t-shirts and jeans for those who don’t have one foot in the past, there’s also a fine line in accessories, hats, braces, bow ties and sunglasses. The shop also offers discounts to local and overseas students. Definitely not to be sniggered at... Q Mon-Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. J

FanciSchmancy Vintage B-2, 4 Upper Fownes St, Tem- ple Bar, D2. Once you find this boutique you’ll be delighted at your discovery. A hidden gem in the Temple Bar area, it stocks a great range of accessories, belts, bags and shoes to go along with the vintage dresses, blouses and knitwear. A discount rail sometimes makes an appearance for sharp-eyed browsers, but the prices are all pretty good, meaning you don’t have to break into the Central Bank across the road to look fabulous in flawless style. We can’t say much about the “schmancy” side of things, but whether you’re a drag queen or a prom queen, even a short visit to this vintage boutique will probably see you leave with something altogether fancy. Q Mon-Wed 12:30 - 18:00, Thur-Fri 13:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:30 - 18:00. J

FanciSchmancy clothing kaleidoscope

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80s elegance at Fluorescent Elephant Fluorescent Elephant B-2, 9 Sprangers Yard, Crow St, Temple Bar, D2, tel. (+353)(0) 86 338 9669, www.fluo- rescentelephant.com. As the name suggests, Fluorescent Elephant is big and bright in the world of vintage fashion. With hand-picked, laundered clothes in perfect condition, it’s a fresh approach much-loved by both vintage newbies and aficianados. There’s no pointy-collared polyester here - it’s a mix of trendy streetwear and highly-covetable yet affordable dresses and evening wear. The shop’s RelePhant line (say it out loud and it makes sense) is vintage reworked and brought up to date. The store itself is minimalist and sweet-smelling - a not so subtle two fingers to preconceptions of such shops. Vintage like this never gets old! Q Mon-Wed 11:00 - 18:00, Thur 11:00 - 19:00, Fri-Sat 11:00 - 18:00. J Golly Gosh Boutique B-2, 2 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, D2. It would be difficult fo find this cute little vintage shop - through a narrow doorway and up some creaky stairs - were it not for the eye-catching signs outside. Specialising in vintage clothing from the 1920s all the way up to the ‘80s, much of what is on offer here is what those in the business call ‘dead stock’ - no, nothing macabre about it - it means brand new clothes from (sometimes very) old store inventories. So there’s nothing retro here, just the genuine article, cleaned, repaired and ready to go. Irish craft workers and designers also have jewellery and accessories for sale here, and you can always pick up some movie memorabilia or a kitsch toy from your childhood if the displays make the memories start flow- ing back. They’ve also just opened a shop in the uber-trendy George’s Arcade, so you can double your chances of finding something great to wear. Q Mon-Wed 11:15 - 18:30, Thur 11:15 - 19:00, Fri-Sat 11:15 - 18:30, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. J

Golly Gosh, it's nearly summer!

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012 Vintage Shopping 45

Shotsy Vintage jewellery Shotsy Vintage B-2, Temple Lane South, Temple Bar, D2, tel. (+353)(1) 679 9652, www.shotsyvintage.ie. The hand-picked, top-quality ladies and gents clothing from the 1950s through to the 1980s here mean you can find something unique while enjoying the craftsmanship of the past. The shop’s name stems from Lauren Bacall’s character Schatze Page in ‘How to Marry a Millionaire’ - by renting a penthouse and socialising in upmarket estab- lishments to create an impression of affluence. Just like Schatze, in a time when we are all feeling the pinch, Shotsy offers the chance to look a million dollars on a shoestring. Q Mon-Wed 11:00 - 19:00, Thur 11:00 - 20:00, Fri-Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. J Siopaella B-2, 25 Temple Lane South, Temple Bar, D2, tel. (+353)(0)86 840 7825, www.siopaella.com. The Irish translation for “Ella’s shop”, and pronounced Shop Ella, this innovative new swap boutique and consignment store features pre-loved designer clothing and accessories from brands ranging from Karen Millen and Topshop to Gucci and Marc Jacobs. The designer clothes come from all over the world, but there’s also one-off samples and collections from emerg- ing Irish designers to catch the eye. The inventory changes daily so there’s lovely surprises to be had every time you visit. Only the most stylish and best quality clothes are accepted, so whether you love the thrill of the hunt for a unique Chanel or Chloe piece, or are on a mission for some must-have Rock & Republic jeans, come here for your swapping and shopping. Recycling your style means you are doing something good for the environment, your wardrobe, and your wallet! Q Mon-Sat 12:00 - 19:00. J

Anya Hindmarch at Siopaella

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Abbey St B-2 Grand Canal Quay C-2 Old Cabra Rd A-1 South King St B-2 Adelaide Rd B/C-3 Grand Canal St C-2/3 Old Kilmainham A-2 South Lotts Rd D-2/3 Amiens St C-2 Grand Parade C-3 Ormond Quay Lower B-2 South William St B-2 Appian Way C-3 Grangegorman Upper B-1/2 Ormond Quay Upper B-2 St. James’s St A-2 Arbour Hill A-2 Haddington Rd C-3 Oxmantown Rd A-1/2 St. John’s Rd A-2 Ardee St B-3 Halliday Rd A-2 Parkgate St A-2 St. Marys Rd South C-3 Arran Quay B-2 Hanover Quay C/D-2 Parnell Rd A/B-3 St. Stephen’s Aston Quay B-2 Hanover St East C-2 Parnell Square B-2 Green B/C-3 Aughrim St A-1 Harcourt St B-3 Parnell St B-2 Stephen St B-2 Aungier St B-2/3 Hatch St Lower C-3 Patrick St B-2 Stephens Lane A-2 Bachelors Walk B-2 Hatch St Upper B-3 Pearse St C-2 Suffolk St B/C-2 Ballsbridge D-3 Henry St B-2 Pearse Station C-2 Suir Rd D-2 Ballybough Rd C-1 C/D-3 Pembroke Rd C/D-3 Summerhill C-1 Bath Ave D-3 Herbert Rd D-3 Pembroke St C-3 Sundrive Rd D-2 Bath St D-3 Heuston Station A-2 Phibsborough Rd B-1 Sussex Rd C-3 Benburb St A-2 Heytesbury St B-3 Phoenix Park A-1/2 Synge St B-3 Blackhall Place B-2 High St B-2 Pimlico B-2/3 Talbot St C-2 Blackhorse Ave A-1 Chancery St B-2 Poplar Row C-1 Temple Bar B-2 Bolton St B-2 Charlemont Place B/C-3 Portland Row C-1 Temple St B-1 Bow St B-2 Church Rd C/D-1 Prussia St A-1 The Coombe B-3 Bride St B-3 Church Rd C/D-2 Queen St B-2 Thomas St A/B-2 Bridge St B-2 Infirmary Rd A-2 Rainsford St A/B-2 Tolka Quay D-2 Bridgefoot St B-2 Inns Quay B-2 Ranelagh C-3 Toll Bridge D-2 Brunswick St B-2 Irish Financial Services Rathdown B-1 Townsend St C-2 Burgh Quay C-2 Centre C-2 Rathmines Rd B-3 Trinity College C-2 Burlington Rd C-3 Kevin St B-3 Richmond Rd C-1 Tritonville Rd D-3 Busaras C-2 Kildare St C-2/3 Richmond St B-3 Upper Baggot St C-3 Cabra Rd A-1 Kilmainham A-2 Ringsend Rd C/D-2 Upper Gardiner St B/C-1 Camden St B-3 Lansdowne Rd D-3 Rutland Ave D-2 Upper Merrion St C-2/3 Canal Rd B-3 Leeson Park C-3 Sandymount Ave D-3 Upper Mount St C-3 Capel St B-2 Leeson St Upper C-3 Sandymount Rd D-3 Ushers Quay B-2 Clanbrassil St B-3 Lord Edward St B-2 Sean MacDermott St C-2 Victoria Quay A-2 College St C-2 Lower Baggot St C-3 Serpentine Ave D-3 Walting St A-2 Connolly Station C-2 Lower Drumcondra Rd B-1 Seville Place C-2 Wellington Quay B-2 Constitution Hill B-2 Lower Gardiner St C-2 Shelbourne Park D-2/3 Wellington Rd C-3 Conyngham Rd A-2 Lower Leeson St C-3 Shelbourne Rd D-3 Werburgh St B-2 Cork St A/B-3 Macken St C-2 Sherriff St C/D-2 Westland Row C-2 Croke Park C-1 Mangan Rd B-3 Sir John Rogerson Wicklow St B-2 Custom House Quay C-2 Manor St A-2 Quay C/D-2 Wilton Terrace C-3 Dawson St C-2 Marlborough St C-2 Smithfield B-2 Windsor Rd C-1 Dolphin's Barn Rd A-3 Marrowbone Lane A-2/3 South Anne St B/C-2 Wolfe Tone Quay A-2 Dominick St B-2 Mary St B-2 South Circular Rd A/B-3 York Rd D-2 Donore Ave A/B-3 Marys Lane B-2 South Great Georges St B-2 York St B-3 Dorset St B-2 Meath St B-2 Ave B-1 Merchants Quay B-2 Drury St B-2 Merrion Rd D-3 Dufferin Ave B-3 Merrion Row C-3 Duke St C-2 Merrion Square C-2/3 Earlsfort Terrace C-3 Mespil Rd C-3 East Rd D-2 Molesworth St C-2 East Wall Rd C/D-1 Moore St B-2 East Wall Rd D-2 C-1 Eccles St B-1 Mountjoy St B-1/2 Eden Quay C-2 Nassau St C-2 Elgin Rd C/D-3 New St B-3 Ellis Quay B-2 North Circular Rd B/C-1 Fairview C-1 North Frederick St B-1/2 Fairview Pk C/D-1 North King St B-2 Fenian St C-2 North Wall Quay C/D-2 Georges Quay C-2 Northumberland Rd C-3 Grafton St B/C-2 O’Connell St B-2 GIve us a smile Molly

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com dublin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012

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N O R Malin Hd. T Rathlin Island H Malin Tory Island Sheephaven Bay Fanad Hd. Ballyliffen C Culdaff Giant's Causeway i Greencastle Inishowen Hd. Fair Hd. H Portsalon Lough Swilly Carndonagh A2 Portstewart i Ballycastle A Dunfanaghy Moville i Bloody Foreland Portrush N N56 i Coleraine Cushendun N Gortahork Buncrana i Milford Lough Foyle A2 A2 Cushendall E An Bun Beag (Bunbeg) Rathmullen Ballymoney Gaoth Dobhair Limavady L (Gweedore) N56 Aran Island i i A29 Bann Carnlough 55° An Clochán Liath N13 55° Ailt an Chorráin Letterkenny Foyle Derry ANTRIM (Burtonport) (Dungloe) i Kilrea i i Dungiven A2 DONEGAL N14 A5 N56 Larne Gweebarra Bay N56 DERRY A6 Ballymena i Stranorlar Lifford i Glenties Finn Whitehead N15 Strabane Ballybofey Ballyclare Gleann Cholm Cille i i Ardara M2 (Glencolumbkille) Magherafelt Carrickfergus N15 Newtownstewart Foyle Antrim Malinmore Kilcar TYRONE i Bangor i A5 Cookstown i N56 Donegal Derg A505 A26 Belfast Lough Killybegs L. Derg i Belfast i Donaghadee i A29 Rossnowlagh Omagh L. Neagh i Newtownards Donegal Bay A32 i Str an g N15 A26 f Dungannon i i Lisburn o Ballyshannon Irvinestown i r d

Bundoran Lower Dromore A5 A4 Hillsborough L

M1 . Mullaghmore L. Erne Belleek Aughnacloy LurganLagani L.Melvin A32 Portadown N15 i Blackwater A1 Portaferry A3 Tandragee Ballynahinch i Benwee Hd. Grange Downpatrick Hd. i Enniskillen i Erris Hd. Killala Bay Sligo Bay Drumcliff Emyvale Armagh i Banbridge i Downpatrick ManorhamiltonL. Macnean Erne A4 A3 A1 Bann DOWN Béal an Mhuirthead Easkey Strandhill i N16 A4 ARMAGH (Belmullet) Ballycastle SligoL.Gill Dromahair FERMANAGH Monaghan Keady A28 Newcastle St. John's Pt. Dromore West Derrylin N54 Killala N59 Upper i Collooney Swanlinbar N54 Clones Newry i Inishcrone Unshin L. Erne N2 Bangor Erris SLIGO Ballyconnell N59 Crossmolina L. Allen Belturbet MONAGHAN Castleblayney Warrenpoint Deel i Ballina N17 Castlebaldwin A1 N4 Erne Carlingford L. Blacksod Bay L. i Kilkeel N57 Tubbercurry Carlingford N59 L. Ballymote Arrow Drumshanbo Ballinamore N3 Cootehill Iniskeen Conn Foxford L. Oughter i i Achill Hd. Keel L Key LEITRIM Shercock Dundalk 54° Cashel Moy Boyle Cavan 54° Achill Island MAYO Charlestown i Carrickmacross M1 Dundalk i Mulrany L.Gara i Carrick-on-Shannon CAVAN N52 Swinford Kingscourt Bay Newport N5 i LOUTH i N5 i N55 N3 N17 Virginia Ardee Dunany Pt. Clare Island Clew Bay Castlebar ROSCOMMON L. Gowna Dunleer N5 i i L. Sheelin Blackwater IRISH Westport N60 Knock Strokestown Granard N52 M1 Roonah Quay N2 Louisburgh Castlerea N5 LONGFORD Kells i SEA Inishturk Claremorris N60 Ballyhaunis Longford Edgeworthstown Slane Drogheda L. Carra N3 N60 N51 Inishbofin N59 N17 i Castlepollard M1 i N55 Renvyle Leenáun Lanesborough L. Derravaragh N51 Navan i Ballinrobe N83 Roscommon N4 i Balbriggan L. Mask Athboy Cleggan N84 MEATH M1 Skerries Letterfrack Clonbur Cong Ballymahon Trim N2 N63 N61 Rush i L. Ree Mullingar Clifden Sraith Salach i Headford Clare N55 i Boyne i N3 i Lambay i N59 Mount Bellew N4 Swords Island Ballyconneely (Recess) L. Corrib WESTMEATH N59 N63 L. Ennell Malahide Oughterard N17 i Athlone Kinnegad Maynooth DUBLIN Slyne Hd. Roundstone N52 M4 Howth i GALWAY Howth Hd. N6 M50 i Moate Dublin Cárna (Carna) Galway Kilbeggan Bay Athenry Ballinasloe Clane Dublin i Shannon Edenderry i An Cheathrú Rua (Carraroe) Salthill i N6 i Tullamore i Dun Laoghaire Inverin i Liffey Ros an Mhil (Rossaveal) N6 KILDARE N7 i i An Spidéal Oranmore OFFALY Droichead Nua Tallaght ATLANTIC Golam Hd. i Kilreekill Brosna (Spiddal) N52 Portarlington (Newbridge) M7 Naas Enniskerry Bray Galway Bay Banagher Kilcormac Kildare N18 Loughrea Blessington Greystones N66 OCEAN Cliffs of Moher M7 Barrow Lacken Inishmore Portumna i Ballyvaughan Shannon Birr i M9 Reservoir A i i N11 r a Inishmaan N67 n I Inisheer Doolin Gort Portlaoise i i s l Lisdoonvarna Terryglass Glendalough Ashford a n d N62 N9 Wicklow s Stradbally Athy N81 WICKLOW 53° Mountshannon L. Derg i Wicklow Hd. Hags Hd. Ennistymon N52 LAOIS Rathdrum 53° N18 Scarriff Dromineer Roscrea Lahinch N7 Abbeyleix Baltinglass N11 N78 Avoca N85 i Miltown Malbay i Tulla Nenagh N62 Durrow Ennis Carlow i i N8 Tullow Derry Arklow N18 Killaloe Templemore i N67 CLARE N77 Castlecomer Donegal Pt. N9 N68 N7 i Urlingford CARLOW i Gorey Kilkee Shannon i N18 Kilrush i Thurles i Bagenalstown Bunclody Killimer N8 Kilkenny N10 Courtown i Limerick N11 Holycross N80 Kilbaha N69 N20 Ferns KILKENNY Graiguenamanagh Loop Hd. Foynes Adare TIPPERARY Callan WEXFORD Cahore Pt. Shannon Estuary i N10 N9 Ballybunion Tarbert Rathkeale Cashel i Thomastown Slaneyi Enniscorthy LIMERICK N74 N76 ST. GEORGE’S Listowel i Nore N79 Feale Newcastle West Tipperary N8 Kerry Hd i N21 Kilmallock CHANNEL Deale Clonmel N9 New Ross N11 Wexford Bay Ballyheige N20 Abbeyfeale Cahir N24 N69 N24 i Carrick-on-Suir i N25 Tralee Wexford Rath Luirc (Charleville) N8 i i Suir N25 Brandon Point N21 i Bay Tralee Waterford Ballyhack Wellington Mitchelstown i N25 Rosslare Castlegregory N21 Bridge i Castleisland i Fethard Camp Buttevant Passage East Kilmore Quay Rosslare Harbour N73 N8 N25 i An Daingean Kanturk N20 Tramore N70 Fermoy WATERFORD Carnsore Pt. Clogher Hd. (Dingle) N72 Dunmore East N22 i Lismore Cappoquin i Killorglin N72 Mallow N72 i Hook Hd. KERRY Killarney Blackwater i i Waterford Blasket Islands Dingle Bay Dungarvan Harbour Lakes of Millstreet N20 Glenbeigh i Watergrasshill N25 Killarney CORK 52° N71 N22 i N8 Youghal 52° Valentia Island Cahirciveen i N25 Ardmore CELTIC Macroom Blarney i i Bray Hd. i Kenmare Lee N25 Sneem i Cork Midleton i N22 Cobh Knockadoon Hd. SEA Waterville N70 N71 Inchigeelagh Ballycotton Crosshaven Carrigaline i Glengarriff i Bandon Cork Harbour Kenmare River Dunmanway Bantry i Bandon N71 Kinsale Cods Hd. i Distances in Kilometres (blue) Castletown Bere Clonakilty i Athlone Bantry Bay Courtmacsherry and in miles (red) Dursey Island Rosscarbery 227 Bere Island Belfast N71 i Old Head of Kinsale 141 Schull Skibbereen 219 424 Car drivers and front seat passengers must Galley Hd. Cork Dunmanus Bay 136 264 wear seat belts. No children under the Baltimore 209 117 428 Derry age of 12 years may ride in front seats. Mizen Hd. Goleen 130 73 266 69 183 180 402 Donegal Clear Island 114 112 250 43 237 127 167 256 233 Dublin 78 104 160 147 138 Motor cyclists and passengers 156 must wear helmets 144 84 323 157 85 Dundalk 90 52 202 97 98 53

93 306 209 272 204 212 237 Galway 58 190 130 169 127 136 148 116 335 Motorways M50 Coastal Sandy Beach KILOMETRES 284 148 309 114 197 172 Kilkenny 0 20 40 60 80km 78 177 92 208 192 73 123 107 232 436 441 Motorways (under construction) M50 87 407 304 350 193 198 Killarney Airports 144 271 54 274 253 192 219 120 123 0 10 20 30 40 50mls 121 323 328 N22 105 296 193 242 104 113 111 Limerick National Primary Routes International Car Ferry MILES 75 201 65 204 184 123 150 65 70 69 32 224 251 211 151 156 151 80 158 264 149 Roscommon National Secondary Routes N71 Local Car / Passenger Ferry Whilst every care has been taken to 20 139 156 131 94 91 94 51 98 164 94 201 330 208 397 391 153 245 274 98 275 211 241 Rosslare ensure accuracy in the compilation of this map, Harbour Other Routes (selected) 130 205 129 247 243 101 153 170 62 171 131 150 Tourist Information Offices i i Fáilte Ireland cannot accept 133 346 128 351 282 218 264 93 135 135 25 154 234 Shannon Airport Railways (all year) responsibility for errors or omissions. 83 215 80 218 176 138 165 57 85 84 15 96 146 Because of the small scale of this map, not all holiday centres 117 206 336 135 66 214 166 138 245 343 232 85 325 218 Sligo County Boundary Tourist Information Offices i can be shown. The information on this map is 73 128 209 84 41 135 104 86 152 213 144 53 203 136 correct at the time of going to press. 164 333 126 383 357 163 242 220 48 193 129 208 82 152 293 Waterford Northern Ireland Border (seasonal) 108 207 78 238 222 98 151 137 30 120 80 129 51 95 182 © January 2006 Fáilte Ireland 184 309 187 378 372 135 226 253 80 254 190 222 19 213 307 61 Wexford 117 192 116 235 231 88 141 157 50 158 118 138 12 133 191 39