Download the Flyer

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

Download the Flyer MONT BLANC AN EXCEPTIONAL SITE: SCAN HERE for more information A FRAGILE SITE TO BE PROTECTED on regulations VERY IMPORTANT PRÉFET The ascent of Mont Blanc is not an initiation course in moutaineering. DE LA HAUTESAVOIE Mont Blanc is a fragile, natural site. It is extremely popular, attracting 15 000 It requires genuine high-mountain experience, practice, expertise to 20 000 climbers per year. Over the years, this high attendance has resulted in mountaineering techniques (progress, roping up, cramponning...), in environmental problems, as well as refuge and individual safety issues. good physical preparation and altitude acclimatization. The creation of a natural habitat protection area (APHN - by an order signed by the Prefect on 1st October 2020) and the implementation of regulations, THE RISKS aim at maintaining the existing balance. These latter should ensure the • Natural risks (avalanches, serac fall, rock slides, storms, zero visibility protection of this classified site (ministerial decrees of 5th January 1952 etc…): these are the cause of several deaths each year, particularly and 16th June 1976) and make climbing conditions safer. in the couloir du Goûter • Acute mountain tiredness, rapid variations in weather conditions REGULATING ACCESS TO MONT BLANC and risks, extreme cold... 80 to 100 rescue interventions each year, of which 80 % are caused by exhaustion due to poor physical preparation and/or a lack of ACCESS TO MONT BLANC - New rules apply to the normal route, but also to alpinists arriving from other acclimatization routes (Trois Monts, aiguille de Bionnassay, Italian routes...) and staying in • Falls (a slip or fall with severe or even fatal consequences) one of the accommodation sites on the way down. Make sure you assess AN EXCEPTIONAL SITE: your physical capacity at high altitude and take the length of the routes into Between 40 and 100 % failure rate every day. Careful planning and consideration. hiring a state-registered high-mountain guide will considerably increase your chances of success. THE REALM OF ALPINISTS MANDATORY BOOKING IN THE REFUGES: GOÛTER, TÊTE ROUSSE AND NID D’AIGLE PROTECTION OF NATURAL HABITATS ¡APHN¢ £ • Individual bookings: the full identity of all the participants staying must IN AN EMERGENCY, ONE NUMBER TO CALL THE RESCUE SERVICES. be given when the booking is made NEW REGULATIONS • An individual booking receipt with the person’s name is issued and must be produced during any on-the-spot checks (automatically generated when the booking is made) • Should you cancel your trip, it is imperative that you cancel your booking on the internet site, in order to leave room for other alpinists • Abri Vallot and la Baraque Forestière des Rognes are shelters and are not to be DO YOUR RESEARCH AND MAKE A BOOKING used as refuges under any circumstances. Illegal occupation will be sanctioned. STAYING AT THE TÊTE ROUSSE BASE CAMP HIRE A GUIDE: GREATER SAFETY AND A BETTER CHANCE OF SUCCESS ! • 50-person limit at the base camp • Are you looking for a guide to accompany you ? • Group tents, no individual tents Contact mountain guide companies or independant guides • Mandatory booking and accommodation fee, as in the refuges via their unions: www.guides-montagne.org or www.syndicat-sim.com • Camping prohibited in the classified site of Mont Blanc, except at the Tête Rousse base camp ROUTES, RISKS AND PREVAILING CONDITIONS THOROUGH, COORDINATED, ONTHESPOT CHECKS High Mountain Office (OHM) – Pôle Montagne Risk Booking receipts are checked by: Maison de la montagne, place de l’église in Chamonix • The refuge keepers (on arrival, proof of identity must be provided) Tel. +33 4 50 53 22 08 - www.chamoniarde.com/activite/mont-blanc • The officers of the White Brigade ("brigade blanche") of Saint-Gervais Les Bains • General and practical information, rundowns, maps • The police officers of the "PGHM" (the high mountain rescue unit of the • An information area explaining risks in the mountains French gendarmerie) • Specific and feasibility Information • The officers of the French Agency for Biodiversity The qualifications of the mountain guides who accompany clients are also WEATHER REPORTS AND AVALANCHE RISK ESTIMATE checked. • Web site: www.meteofrance.com • Answer phone: 3250 APPLICABLE SANCTIONS • High Mountain Office (OHM) and Tourist Offices • Any person who undermines the conservation of sites of geological interest, natural habitats, animal or plant species and their habitats, will be liable MEDICAL RISKS ASSOCIATED WITH HIGH MOUNTAIN to three years’ imprisonment and a 150 000 € fine (art. L.415-3 and R.415-1 - • Health info: www.mdem.org (mountain doctors website) French Environmental Code) • Any person who does not comply with the prohibition regarding camping on a classified site will be liable to two years’ imprisonment and a 300 000 € THE REFUGES fine (art. L.341-19 - French Environmental Code) • Refuge du Goûter (mandatory on-line booking) • Any person who rebels against the officers in charge of on-the-spot checks www.refugedugouter.ffcam.fr - +33 4 50 54 40 93 will be liable to two years’ imprisonment and a 30 000 € fine andup to three • Refuge and base camp of Tête Rousse (mandatory booking on-line) years’ imprisonment and a 45 000 € fine, if they are part of a group www.refugeteterousse.ffcam.fr - +33 4 81 91 86 56 (art. L.433-7 - French Penal Code) • Refuge du Nid d’Aigle (mandatory booking on-line) • Any person who acts fraudulently with respect to either intending to stay www.refugeniddaigle.ffcam.fr - +33 4 50 58 05 78 or actually staying in accommodation without paying, will be liable to six • Refuge des Cosmiques (telephone booking highly recommended) months’ imprisonment and a 7 500 € fine (art. L.313-5 - French Penal Code) www.refuge-des-cosmiques.com - +33 4 50 54 40 16 MONT BLANC REMAINS FIRST AND FOREMOST, WHICHEVER ROUTE YOU CHOOSE, THE REALM OF ALPINISTS ! www.haute-savoie.gouv.fr © DDT74 photos Crédit - DDT74 Latitude-Cartagène- Conception: R u i s s T e o a rr u en d e t l du a P la P n la c n de l'Aiguille h et te R ui sse au des Tro i s N an t s R To a rrent vin z d de B a e v s i V lai o tière u Sét ill a o l u r T e d s o d r r e n t de sseau i u la R Normal route via the refuge du Goûter Trois Monts route 1 C 2 r o Aire de la FontaineMandatory on-line booking: www.ffcam.fr/reserver-votre-refuge-en-ligne.html s Telephone booking at the refuge des Cosmiques highly recommended: Mont Borrel Chalets de Chailloux et t Bivouacking is prohibited along the normal route except in an extreme emergency. e +33 4 50 54 40 16 Les Ravanets THE ASCENT OF MONT BLANC IS NOT FOR BEGINNERS La Flatière This Vaudagneroute requires high-mountain experience, knowledge of glaciated terrain, expertise in mountaineering techniques, physical fitness and altitude acclimatization. + information at www.chamoniarde.com/activites/mont-blanc Le Bettey It is prohibited to carry any material other than that required for the ascent and to climb in a roped party of more than 3 people. Morand Charousse Les Granges La Para APHN IN THE "APHN" NATURAL HABITAT PROTECTION AREA, IT IS PROHIBITED: Vers le Nant - to plant flags or build any structure or device Petit Pont Taconnaz of any sort, albeit temporary - to unfurl banners or any form of advertising or to make any visual, auditory or olfactory display 2500 L'Arve of an advertising, commercial, artistic, political, de l’Aiguille du Midi humanitarian, religious or militant nature G la Téléphérique T c o To ie rr r r Les Glaciers e re n n CHAMONIXMONTBLANC t 3000 t 3500 LES HOUCHES d d T d Pierre à l'Échelle e u or e l B re s a n o t G u d Aiguille du Midi Le Vernay r r e B i g T a a o z e 3 841 c s a Bellevarde o s t n o nche n n la a B s z llée Chavanne Vieille Va Panoramicla Mont-Blanc 3613 m Refuge des Cosmiques Towards 1500 145 beds Saint-Gervais Les Bains z station a n Téléphérique de Bellevue n o La Charme c a T e Col du Mont Lachat d 2 115 To r e rren i t d c e B a ion l nassay 1500 G Glacier SAINTGERVAIS LES BAINS Baraque Forestière 4000 du Géant Mont Blanc des Rognes (shelter) tramway Tête Rousse base camp 3167 m Le Petit Plateau Mont Blanc du Tacul 50 beds (tents provided on-site) 4 248 Aiguille Aiguille du Diable Désert de Saussure 4 114 de Pierre Ronde Grand Les Grandes Montées 3 839 2372 m Refuge du Nid d’Aigle Couloir le Grand Capucin 20 beds Col Maudit Aiguille du Goûter 3 838 2000 4 035 3863 3167 m Refuge de Tête Rousse 74 beds 4000Arête de la Brenva Glacier de Bio Mont Maudit ce nnas éro say 3800 m Refuge du Goûter 4 465 e V 2500 d 120 beds Dôme du Goûter uis u Le Corridor R se a de la Ruisseau Glais 4 304 ett e Le Grand Plateau Le Crouet Derriere 3000 Col de la Brenva 3500 Ruisse 4000 Col du Dôme 4 303 au d Col de Bionnassay Abri Vallot es ers 4 270 Saug La Pierre au Fou 3500 3 897 (shelter) er ci 4500 la ot G ric Aiguille euniers T Piton des Italiens Les Bosses Grande es M Maison Neuve d'en Bas e d de Bionnassay - BD Carthage RGE ALTI d’OpenStreetMap © les contributeurs nt d Maison Neuve d'en Haut 4 002 Les Bosses Petite Na 4 052 CAMPING IS PROHIBITED THROUGHOUT THE Ghiacciaio del N la 3000 "APHN OF MONT BLANC AN EXCEPTIONAL B MONT BLANC ren SITE" (except at the Tête Rousse base camp) Mont Blanc va e 4 810 It is an offence to set up your own tent if you have Dôm de Courmayeur l been unable to find a bed in the accommodation de 4 748 o 1 km ai shown on this map.
Recommended publications
  • TARIFS PAR COURSE - Été 2021 Cette Liste Donne Un Exemple Des Tarifs À La Course « Classique »
    TARIFS PAR COURSE - Été 2021 Cette liste donne un exemple des tarifs à la course « classique ». Mais en fonction des conditions (nuit en refuge, succession de courses) ils peuvent être revus à la hausse ou à la baisse Bassins Argentière-Trient Aiguille d'Argentière Flèche Rousse 780€ Arête du Génépi (avec une autre course depuis le refuge) 380€ Arête du Raboin 380€ Couloir en Y 780€ Plateau inf. / Dièdre central 400€ Voie normale 780€ Aiguille du Chardonnet Arête Forbes 780€ Face Nord 780€ Aiguille Dorées Arête sud 780€ Traversée 960€ Aiguille de la Purtscheller Arête Sud (2 jours engagement) 760€ Aiguille du Tour Arête de la Table (2 jours engagement) 760€ Couloir de la Table(2 jours engagement) 760€ Voie Normale (depuis le refuge) et école de glace 760€ Le Minaret éperon SE 870€ Les Ecandies en traversée 500€ Dolent (Mont) Arête Gallet 810€ Tête Blanche ou Petite Fourche (depuis le refuge) 600€ Traversée refuge Albert 1er- Champex (depuis le refuge) 600€ Chaîne des Drus au Triolet Aiguille de la Nonne, traversée 760€ Aiguille de l'Evèque Traversée Nonne/Evèque 800€ Voie normale 760€ Moine (Aig. du) Arête Sud (1px) 760€ Arête Sud intégrale 820€ Voie normale 760€ Verte (Aig.) Arête du Moine Fourchette 1 Arête des Grands Montets Fourchette 3 Couloir Whymper Fourchette 1 Courtes (Les) Pente NE 860€ En traversée 860€ trav + Ravanel-Mummery 1000€ Droites (Les) Arête Est 1000€ Drus (Aig. des) En traversée Fourchette 1 Voies du pilier Sud Fourchette 3 Bassins Leschaux - Géant Aiguille de Rochefort arête depuis Helbronner A/R 500€ Aiguille de
    [Show full text]
  • 4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
    rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze
    [Show full text]
  • Mists on Mont Blanc. by A
    MlSTS ON MONT BLANC • • MISTS ON MONT BLANC. BY A. D. M. COX -,HE English July of I955, a month of cloudless skies and baro­ meter set fair, had made it difficult to believe the unfavourable reports about conditions in the Alps. Wilfrid Noyce and I, going on ead of the others, left London airport on July 29 in hot sunshine, to land at Geneva in a downpour which confined passengers to the plane until an issue· of red umbrellas enabled them to make exit two by two, as if from the ark. The speed with which the umbrellas were produced suggested that the routine was familiar. At Les Contamines, where we arrived the same evening, it was evident that there had been plenty of such weather, and storms never seemed very far away during the next two and a half weeks. But if it was a highly unsettled season, it was at least not an impossible one. like I954· Climbing of some kind was nearly always practicable, but it was never certain from day to day of what kind it would be. Changes were rapid and unforeseen. Thick cloud and depressing rain at night would suddenly give place to clear starlight. A glorious morning would turl) to snow before midday. It was an unpredictable year to have picked for a season in the neighbour­ hood of Mont Blanc. Noyce and I spent our first day on Mont Tondu and the western Aiguille des Lanchettes, returning in the evening to Les Contamines. There we were joined by John Hunt, who had.
    [Show full text]
  • 512J the Alpine Journal 2019 Inside.Indd 422 27/09/2019 10:58 I N D E X 2 0 1 9 423
    Index 2019 A Alouette II 221 Aari Dont col 268 Alpi Biellesi 167 Abram 28 Alpine Journal 199, 201, 202, 205, 235, 332, 333 Absi 61 Alps 138, 139, 141, 150, 154, 156, 163, 165, 179 Aconcagua 304, 307 Altamirano, Martín 305 Adams, Ansel 178 Ama Dablam 280, 282 Adam Smith, Janet 348 American Alpine Journal 298 Adda valley 170 American Civil War 173 Adhikari, Rabindra 286 Amery, Leo 192 Aemmer, Rudolph 242 Amin, Idi 371 Ahlqvist, Carina 279 Amirov, Rustem 278 Aichyn 65 Ancohuma 242 Aichyn North 65, 66 Anderson, Rab 257 Aiguille Croux 248 Andes 172 Aiguille d’Argentière 101 Androsace 222 Aiguille de Bionnassay 88, 96, 99, 102, 104, 106, Angeles, Eugenio 310 109, 150, 248 Angeles, Macario 310 Aiguille de l’M 148 Angel in the Stone (The) Aiguille des Ciseaux 183 review 350 Aiguille des Glaciers 224 Angsi glacier 60 Aiguille des Grands Charmoz 242 Anker, Conrad 280, 329 Aiguille du Blaitière 183 Annapurna 82, 279, 282, 284 Aiguille du Goûter 213 An Teallach 255 Aiguille du Midi 142, 146, 211, 242 Antoinette, Marie 197 Aiguille du Moine 146, 147 Anzasca valley 167 Aiguille Noire de Peuterey 211 Api 45 Aiguilles Blaitière-Fou 183 Ardang 62, 65 Aiguilles de la Tré la Tête 88 Argentère 104 Aiguilles de l’M 183 Argentière glacier 101, 141, 220 Aiguilles Grands Charmoz-Grépon 183 Argentière hut 104 Aiguilles Grises 242 Arjuna 272 Aiguille Verte 104 Arnold, Dani 250 Ailfroide 334 Arpette valley 104 Albenza 168 Arunachal Pradesh 45 Albert, Kurt 294 Ashcroft, Robin 410 Alborz 119 Askari Aviation 290 Alexander, Hugh 394 Asper, Claudi 222 Allan, Sandy 260,
    [Show full text]
  • Alpejskie 4-Tysięczniki
    Alpejskie 4-tysięczniki Po zdobyciu kilku 4-ro tysięczników przyszło mi do głowy zrobienie listy (a jakże) i kompletowanie pozostałych szczytów. Na stronie Pettera znalazłem potrzebne informacje. W Alpach jest 51 szczytów o wysokości bezwzględnej powyżej 4000 metrów i wybitności nie mniejszej niż 100 metrów, czyli takich, które pasują do definicji „prawdziwej” góry. W 1994 roku UIAA ogłosiła oficjalną listę aż 82 szczytów czterotysięcznych i te dodatkowe 31 są zamieszczone na poniższej liście jako szczyty „nie ujęte w rankingu” (NR). Istnieje wiele punktów spornych na tej liście. Znajdują się na niej wierzchołki o wybitności zaledwie kilkumetrowej, podczas gdy pominięte są na niej wierzchołki o wybitności kilkudziesięciometrowej. Nie planuję wdawać się w dyskusję co jest „prawdziwą” górą a co nią nie jest. Podobnie jak przy innych projektach, tak i tu chodzi przecież o to, by być w ruchu. Kolorem zielonym oznaczam szczyty przeze mnie zdobyte, natomiast kolorem żółtym te, z którymi żadna próba do tej pory się nie powiodła. Primary Rank Name Height Difficulty factor 01 Mont Blanc 4810 4697 PD 02 Dufourspitze 4634 2165 PD 03 Zumsteinspitze 4563 111 F 04 Signalkuppe 4556 102 F 05 Dom 4545 1018 PD 06 Liskamm (east) 4527 376 AD 07 Weisshorn 4505 1055 AD Primary Rank Name Height Difficulty factor 08 Täschhorn 4490 209 AD 09 Matterhorn 4478 1164 AD- 10 Mont Maudit 4465 162 PD 11 Parrotspitze 4436 136 PD 12 Dent Blanche 4356 897 AD 13 Nadelhorn 4327 206 PD 14 Grand Combin 4314 1517 PD+ 15 Finsteraarhorn 4273 2108 PD 16 Mont Blanc du Tacul 4247
    [Show full text]
  • TARIF Des Courses 2009 Pour
    Tarif des courses 2009 en engagement privé de la Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix. Traditionnelle par excellence, cette formule est la plus souple pour parcourir la haute montagne. En rapport avec votre niveau et les conditions du moment, votre guide vous proposera un programme de courses adapté. Le tarif d’une course est établi, en fonction de la longueur, la difficulté et surtout l’engagement de la course, pour 1 personne ou 2 personnes suivant l’itinéraire. Le tarif est l’honoraire du guide il ne comprend pas les frais de refuges ou de remontées mécaniques. Difficulté : En face de chaque course un nombre d’étoiles allant de 0 à 5 étoiles est mis pour «coter» la course par rapport à sa difficulté pure (technique, longueur et engagement).Cette difficulté peut bien-sur variée suivant les conditions. Le nombre d’étoiles n’a en aucun cas un rapport avec l’intérêt et la beauté de la course. LES GRANDES COURSES Les grandes courses sont un rêve pour tous et sont différentes pour chacun ! Tout est fonction de son niveau, ses goûts, ses aspirations… Le tarif d’une course est fonction de sa longueur, sa difficulté technique et de son engagement. Plus la course est «importante», plus ces paramètres varient donc passé un certain niveau de course, une fourchette est donnée pour avoir un ordre de grandeur. Mais le tarif «final» ne pourra être décidé que par le guide après la course, face aux conditions rencontrées, le temps mis… Fourchette 1 . …. De 900 à 1200 euros Fourchette 2 . .. De 1100 à 1400 euros Fourchette 3 .
    [Show full text]
  • Notes 1971 the Alps Colin Taytor
    Notes 1971 The Alps Colin Taytor Summary The summer season of 1971 must be one of the best on record. In the Western Alps the winter snowfall was late and less than usual, so the big classic faces came into condition early and remained in good condition for much of the season, in spite of several quite big storms in late July and August. A solo first ascent and half a dozen solo ascents of major routes were made by British climbers. British parties also made ascents of important routes such as the North-west faces of the Olan and the Ailefroide in the Dauphine, the Brouillard Pillars, the Grand Pilier d'Angle, the Central Pillar of Freney and the Droites North face in the Mont Blanc region, and of the Eiger and the Matterhorn North faces. Many other British parties made notable ascents and the notes below, while not complete, are confined mainly to their achievements. Details of ascents by continental climbers can be found in Alpine Climbing and in the continental journals, particularly La Montagne and Alpinismus. I am grateful particularly to Doug Scott, the Editor of Alpine Climbing and to Ken Wilson, the Editor of Mountain for collecting much of the information on which these notes are based, and also to many others who sent in information about their routes. DAUPHINE Probably more English parties climbed in the Dauphine in the summer of 1971 than ever before. Weather conditions were good, particularly during July, although several big storms occurred in August. As a result, many of the big routes were in condition.
    [Show full text]
  • Peaks & Glaciers®
    Peaks & Glaciers® 2021 JOHN MITCHELL FINE PAINTINGS EST 1931 Peaks & Glaciers® 2021 20th Anniversary Exhibition Catalogue All paintings, drawings and photographs are for sale and are available for viewing from Monday to Friday by prior appointment at: John Mitchell Fine Paintings 17 Avery Row Brook Street London W1K 4BF Catalogue compiled and written by William Mitchell. [email protected] + 44 (0)207 493 7567 www.johnmitchell.net To mark our twentieth Peaks & Glaciers exhibition, a dedicated and 3 richly illustrated book will be published later in the spring of this year. Drawing on two decades of specializing in these paintings, drawings Anneler 43 and rare photographs of the Alps, the anniversary publication will chart some of the highlights that have passed through my hands. The Avanti 16 accompanying essay will attempt to explain – to both veteran followers and newcomers alike- why collectors and readers of these annual Braun 44 catalogues continue to enjoy receiving them and why this author Bright 26 derives such pleasure from sourcing and identifying the pictures that are offered. Above all, it promises to be a beautiful homage to the Alps Calame 24, 38 in a year when many people have been unable to spend time in the Colombi 20, 27 mountains and inhale, in the great climber and author Leslie Stephen’s words, ‘all those lungfuls of fresh air’. Contencin 6, 12, 15, 36, 39, 40, 43 da Casalino 48 Details of the book and how to get a copy will be sent to all Peaks & Glaciers enthusiasts nearer the time. Daures 18 Fourcy 14, 19 There has already been some significant snowfall in many parts of the Alps this winter and, as per every season, it is difficult to know in Grimm 11 advance which areas will receive more than others.
    [Show full text]
  • Mer De Glace” (Mont Blanc Area, France) AD 1500–2050: an Interdisciplinary Approach Using New Historical Data and Neural Network Simulations
    Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde und Glazialgeologie Herausgegeben von MICHAEL KUHN BAND 40 (2005/2006) ISSN 0044-2836 UNIVERSITÄTSVERLAG WAGNER · INNSBRUCK 1907 wurde von Eduard Brückner in Wien der erste Band der Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde, für Eiszeitforschung und Geschichte des Klimas fertig gestellt. Mit dem 16. Band über- nahm 1928 Raimund von Klebelsberg in Innsbruck die Herausgabe der Zeitschrift, deren 28. Band 1942 erschien. Nach dem Zweiten Weltkrieg gab Klebelsberg die neue Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde und Glazialgeologie im Universitätsverlag Wagner in Innsbruck heraus. Der erste Band erschien 1950. 1970 übernahmen Herfried Hoinkes und Hans Kinzl die Herausgeberschaft, von 1979 bis 2001 Gernot Patzelt und Michael Kuhn. In 1907 this Journal was founded by Eduard Brückner as Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde, für Eiszeitforschung und Geschichte des Klimas. Raimund von Klebelsberg followed as editor in 1928, he started Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde und Glazialgeologie anew with Vol.1 in 1950, followed by Hans Kinzl and Herfried Hoinkes in 1970 and by Gernot Patzelt and Michael Kuhn from 1979 to 2001. Herausgeber Michael Kuhn Editor Schriftleitung Angelika Neuner & Mercedes Blaas Executive editors Wissenschaftlicher Beirat Editorial advisory board Jon Ove Hagen, Oslo Ole Humlum, Longyearbyen Peter Jansson, Stockholm Georg Kaser, Innsbruck Vladimir Kotlyakov, Moskva Heinz Miller, Bremerhaven Koni Steffen, Boulder ISSN 0044-2836 Figure on front page: “Vue prise de la Voute nommée le Chapeau, du Glacier des Bois, et des Aiguilles. du Charmoz.”; signed down in the middle “fait par Jn. Ante. Linck.”; coloured contour etching; 36.2 x 48.7 cm; Bibliothèque publique et universitaire de Genève, 37 M Nr. 1964/181; Photograph by H. J.
    [Show full text]
  • Christophe Dumarest
    THE CLIMB INTERVIEW Lucia Prosino talks to CHRISTOPHE DUMAREST France is renowned as a country of exceptional climbers and outstanding mountaineers. Christophe Dumarest is no exception. Behind this highly skilled athlete, however, lies an inventive and attentive person, always ready to crack a joke and eager to share his experiences with others. He’s climbed extensively in the Greater Ranges and opened many new routes in the Alps, such as Tifenn (V6 A1 M8+, 1100 m) on the Aiguille Sans Nom, Destruction Massive (M7/IV, 400m) on the north face of the Tournier Spur on the Droites, and Jean-Chri (7a+, A1, 800 m) on the, Hidden Pillar of Freney. He’s also repeated some of the famous hard modern classics in the range, such as the Lesueur Route (ED3, M8+, 900 m) on the north face of the Dru, and the Gousseault/Desmaison (M7+, 1100m) route with a direct variation. But he prefers to spend his time devising his next enchainments, with a keen eye on the aesthetics of the mountain range in question, and the historical aspects of the routes he chooses to link up. Lucia Prosino recently spoke to Christophe about his life and climbs, the role of ethics in the sport, and the enduring respect he has for British climbers and mountaineers. Mont Blanc is your home and your playground. (Largo’s Route, ED1, W16, M5 X 5c). Why are a lot of Can you still write history there? strong alpinists going to China these days? Well I started going to the mountains aged four, and before ten I China is an immense country, rich in history and traditions, had already gone up a 4000 metre peak in the Mont Blanc area, all still pretty much unknown.
    [Show full text]
  • The Alpine Club Library
    206 The Alpine Club Library. The entire text of the second edition is revised, rearranged, and rewritten, and the authors have not only simplified the general plan of the guide, but, acting on the advice of the reviewers of the first edition, have added a number of new features, and at the same time have not increased the bulk of the volume. The plan of listing peaks alphabetically within their groups has been retained, and to each peak is added not only the altitude, but the rna p reference number and a key letter indicating its oceanic watershed. It has been considered undesirable to retain the earlier sectional sketch maps, and instead a general key-map has been included. A new feature, noticeably absent from the first edition, is an index of passes with appropriate textual references. A glance at the index of peaks reveals in italics how many mountains in the Rockies are but tenta­ tively named ; and it is to be hop~ed most emphatically that the decisions of the Geographic Board of Canada, in confirming or revising the suggestions of pioneer mountaineers, will be arrived at with more wisdom and appropriateness, and less regard for passing political fancy, than has been evinced in the recent past. • N. E. 0 . THE ALPINE CLUB LIBRARY. By A. J. MAcKINTOSH. The following works have been added to the Library: • Club Publications . (1) Akad. Alpenclub Bern. 25. · Jahresbericht 1929-30. 9 x 5! : pp. 34 : plates. (2) t\kad. Alpenclub Ziiric~ 34. Jahresbericht. 9 x 6: pp. 43. 1929 (3b) Akad.
    [Show full text]
  • Great Rides: Tour Mount Blanc
    D E T A I L S WHERE: Mont Blanc massif START/FINISH: Chamonix DISTANCE: 120 miles over fi ve days PICTURES: Jo Gibson THE ALPS | GREAT RIDES Great rides Ready to set off TOUR DU for Chamonix MONT BLANC Last summer, Jo Gibson and three companions circumnavigated the Mont Blanc massif by mountain bike. There were ups and downs… e’re riding the Tour du Mont companies who have tweaked the route to give Do it yourself Blanc,’ I told the table of customers more downhill bang for their buck. W mountain bikers over lunch We based our route on internet research, ALPINE ‘ with our skills instructor. ‘It’s a 120-mile Strava heatmaps, and the availability of BIKING loop around the Mont Blanc massif, mainly refuge accommodation. Chopped into five From May to September, the used by walkers, covering three countries daily stages of at most 32 miles, it seemed accommodation in the area is and ascending over 30,000ft. And it’ll be we would be done by lunchtime. Yet with up to plentiful but it’s best to book unsupported.’ 7,000ft of climbing each day, we had no idea ahead. The nearest airport is The response wasn’t the kudos I had how long we’d be riding. Geneva. Car or train are also hoped for. The instructor asked: ’What options. The biking routes are waymarked and the maps emergency precautions have you got in place?’ SMOKING DISC ROTORS are adequate, but plotting Two months later, cloud cloaked the peaks We set off, climbing into the mist that the route on a GPS device above Chamonix, leaving all but the dirty shrouded the Col du Balme.
    [Show full text]