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O C5 . a> 'tf CO rH D- I I © ^"J CO VJ r—» S I I «g tH rH rH rH rH CT5 lO >0 rj« . 00 CO "^00 .1 .^{DTtKMOtO HCOOJ . rJH 00 O O "^ "^H o . o < CQ W H .HOHW5 CO CQ *0 rrl CQ yj .1 tHOOWOOOOHNHQO S3 w ,— o & H i-H -*4 ' o O I r^ fc o K O N,«Xh rH NHC3H(N H o O H S3 rH 1^© © -M o CO CO .rUHCOO 55 . 00 CO o O CO CO-* H I O a W ^O^-HiO Pi W .HO500 00 I .iCfl5lflMOO Oi &* ,OIMOWH(MOt>H?D . O ^ rH "S rH °l . t^rH CO .oooooohoho^^ . co as cq o 03 1*1 .(N05C«C^00OO5H00 cq tH t-4 rH rH H H H C<1 H ,OO-!P00©OOO'-DO OC5COCO CO O CO CO »£> O C^ rH rH : : * &d • • ?« * . ClD CD 2^ "5 '* s-sil-s : 5 :^cj O .S rO 4h Q> ^•S^ "^ d fe 5h -+J _Q 4 y ^ *i § Is g * POOP 5 05 r* rH (N 00 00 1 (SOiO co ,H iH rH rH rH rH .00H00NO00 rj< rH . co fl &> .C5t>COrH Leadenhall Street, B.C. London : J. S. L^viN, Steam Printing Works, 75, THE EASTERN COUNTIES, — —— Sfcwmigfe gftuitlt Bww. Edited by M. J. B. Baddeley, B.A., and C. S. Ward, M.A. Maps by Bartholomew. Messrs. Baddeley & Ward have earned the position of the most practical of all the Guide-book writers of this time and country. Saturday Review. "The plentiful supply of maps and plans by Bartholomew in these Guides in itself renders them of the greatest service to the conscientious tourist. Times. " The of this series volumes have every virtue of a guide-book ; they are small, compact, concisely written, comprehensive, admirably arranged, trustworthy, practical, and amply supplied with beautiful maps." Birmingham Daily Post. I.—THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT. By M. J. B. Baddeley. 5s. One general and thirteen sectional maps; all tinted to show elevations. 4th Edition, 1886. II.—SCOTLAND, Part I. (" THE HIGHLANDS"), as far as Lairg, Lochiuver and Stornoway, and including Edinburgh, Glasgow, and parts of the Lowlands. By M. J. B. Baddeley, 7s. 36 maps and plans general and sectional ; tinted to show elevations. 4tb Edition, 1885. HI.—NORTH DEVON AND NORTH CORNWALL, with a full de- scription of Exmoor. By C. S. WARD. 3s. 10 maps, general and sectional, and plans ofllfracombe, Exeter and its Cathedral. 3rd Edition, 1885. IV.—THE PEAK DISTRICT of Derbyshire, &c. By M. J. B. Baddeley. 2s. 6d 5 maps and plan of Buxton. 3rd Edition, 1884. V.— SCOTLAND, Part II. ("NORTHERN HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS"), from Inverness and Gairloch to the North of Shet- land. By M. J. B. Baddeley. 4s. 15 maps, tinted to show elevations. 2nd Edition, 1884. VI.—-THE EASTERN COUNTIES. (Watering Places, Cathedral Cities, and other Places of Interest.) By C. S. Ward. 2s. 6d.. l 12 maps and plans. 2nd Edition, 1886. VII.—SOUTH DEVON AND SOUTH CORNWALL, with a full de- scription of Dartmoor and the Scilly Isles. By C. S. Ward and M. J. B. Baddeley. 4s. 14 maps and plans. 2nd Edition, 1885. VIII.—NORTH WALES, Part I. Chester, Rhyl, Llandudno, Bangor, Llanrwst, Bettws-y-Coed, Carnarvon, Llanberis, BedJgelert and Ffestiniog Sections. By M. J. B BADDELEY and C. S. WARD. 3s. 6d. 12 maps and plans. 1884. IX.—NORTH WALES, Part II. Llangollen, Bala, Dolgelley, Barmcuth, Shrewsbury, Machynlleth and Aberystwith Sections. By M. J. B. Baddeley and C. S. Ward. 2s. 6d. 9 maps and plans. 1885. *#* Parts I and II. in one volume, 5s. X.—SOUTH WALES and THE WYE District of Monmouthshire. About 15 maps and plans. Easter, 1886. XI.—SCOTLAND, Part III. ("THE LOWLANDS"). About 15 maps and plans. In th© Press for 1886. ^ : \ci H.J 8. Baddglfy a *d CS/VJard ] THE EASTERN COUNTIES THEIR WATERING PLACES, CATHEDRAL CITIES, AND OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST, TOGETHER WITH THE APPROACHES FROM LONDON C. S. WARD, M.A., AUTHOR OF "NORTH DEVON AND NORTH CORNWALL," "SOUTH DEVON AND SOUTH CORNWALL," "NORTH WALES," ETC. MAPS AND PLANS by BAETHOLOMEW. Second Edition Revised. " With ships the sea was sprinkled far and nigh, Like stars in heaven, and joyously it showed ; Some lying fast at anchor in the road, Some veering up and down, one knew not why." LONDON DULAU & CO., 37, SOHO SQUARE, W. 1886. All Rights reserved. J. S. LEVIN, ENGLISH AND FOREIGN STEAM PRINTING WORKS, 75, LEADENHALL STREET, LONDON, EX. 3>A \2§6 Index Map Inside cover. Sections. Page. Plan of Cambridge 3 ,, Ely Cathedral 19 „ Norwich Cathedral 19 „ Norwich 35 I. Hunstanton, &c. 58 II. Cromer, Mundesley, &c 66 Plan of Yarmouth 83 III. Yarmouth, Lowestoft, &c 88 IV. Southwold, Aldeburgh, &c. 99 V. Felixstowe, Harwich, Dovercourt, &c. 109 VI. Southend, &c. 125 — CONTENTS. Page Approaches London to Hunstanton (via Cambridge and Ely) ••• 2 „ to Norwich ( „ ,, „ ) 34 „ „ (vid Ipswich) 45 Lynn „ G.E.E. 46 E. & M.R 49 „ Yarmouth E. & M.R. 50 London to Lowestoft and Yarmouth 51 Norwich to Cromer 51 „ to Lowestoft and Yarmouth 52 Bury St. Edmunds 54 Hunstanton Section 58—63 Cromer Section 64—82 Mundesley 76 Happisburgh (or Hazeborough) 79 Yarmouth and Lowestoft Section 83 ?>S Yarmouth ... 83 Lowestoft ••• 94 South-wold and Aldeburglr S ction 99—108 Halesworth to Southwold 99 Southwold 100 Dunwich 102 Saxmundham to Aldeburgh..^ 103 Aldeburgn 104 Harwich, Dovercourt, and P'lixstowe Section 109—116 Ipswich to Felixstowe (rail) ... 109 „ Harwich and Felixstowe (river) 109 Felixstowe 110 Ipswich ... HI Manningtree to Dovercourt and Harwich 114 Harwich and Dovercourt 114 Walton and Clacton Section 117—124 Walton-on-the-Naze 117 Clacton-on-Sea •• ••• 119 Colchester • 122 Southend Section 125—127 Southend * ... ••• ••• 126 Index ••• m« ••• 128 Advertisements. :; INTRODUCTION. The district described in these pages extends from the mouth of the Thames to the Wash, but the book makes no pretence of being a " guide " to the whole of Essex, Suf- folk and Norfolk. The area covered by it is that which, by liberal interpretation of the term " excursions," may be considered to be within reach of the several watering places on the coast of those counties. The questions ' : " What is there to see at ? " Is there anything in the neighbourhood?", questions which present them- selves when the arrangements for the summer holiday come up for discussion, are endeavoured to be as fully answered as the limits of a really portable volume will allow. And since some travellers want as soon as they start on their journey to be able to identify what they see on the road, we have noted under the head of " Approaches," the chief objects within sight of the rail along the several routes to the seaside. For the sea-route to Yarmouth, &c, all needful description will be furnished by the maps. Cambridge, Ely, and Bury St. Edmunds, unlike Norwich, lie outside the range of excursions from the coast, but they are so full of interest and may be so con- veniently visited on the outward or homeward journey, that they seemed to call for description, and have been treated in some detail. The watering-places in order down the coast are : (Norfolk) 1. Hunstanton ; 2. Cromer ; 3. Yarmouth ; (Suffolk) 4. Lowestoft ; 5. Southwold ; 6. Aldeburgh ; 7. Felixstowe ; (Essex) 8. Harwich and Dovercourt 9. Wal- oon-on-the-Naze ; 10. Clacton-on-Sea ; 11. Southend. Of these Yarmouth is not only by far the largest and the richest in objects of interest, but the best placed for many and varied excursions. Lowestoft (with its suburb Kirkley) is next in importance as regards size. It is less noisy and less inundated with excursionists than its neighbour, but also less interesting. It claims to be more aristocratic viii INTRODUCTION. than Yarmouth. For excursions it is not so well situated. Cromer and Clacton must rank next ; the former on account of its surroundings, the latter for its excellent accommo- dation. The neighbourhood of the coast-line of the counties with which we are concerned is, taken as a whole, distinctly flat and tame. At Cromer, however, it is, by comparison, hilly, and flourishing woods and breezy heather leave little to be desired for pleasant walks and drives. The other watering places named, except Harwich and Southend, are, out of the season, in population little more than large vil- lages, and in the summer their main attraction is of course the sea. Southend is a town with a resident population of about 8,000. Its claims to be considered a watering-place are questionable. It is rather a popular playground near the sea, that counts its day- visitors by the thousand and does a brisk trade in refreshments. In addition to the places above mentioned, there are a few sea-side villages, more or less remote from the rail and the stream of tourist-traffic, where those who do not need to be amused or distracted may make a pleasant sojourn, e.g., at Mundesley, Happisburgh, or Dunwich. Though Essex and East Anglia cannot vie in picturesque- ness with the tourist districts of the west and north, they possess attractions for holiday folk of no mean order. Nowhere on our shores are there better sands. Of course out of the reach of high water they are apt to be loose, but below the tidemark are all that young or old could desire. Along this East coast the rise-and-fall of the tides has a comparatively small range, and consequently even at the lowest spring-tides the sea is never far distant. Aldeburgh is the only watering-place where the shore is mainly of shingle but there, there is, except at high- water, a little sand. To the fine sands must be added a glorious expanse of sea, always busy with passing craft, and swept by breezes bracing enough to rejuvenate the octogenarian. True, there are not half a dozen hills to be climbed in the whole district, and from first to last not a single glen ; but there are long and winding estuaries and rivers to be navigated ; and Broads and rivers teeming with fish and free to the angler. Where, too, shall we find more noble churches, more in- ' teresting ruined castles and abbeys, finer parks and more beautiful mansions? This book is not written for the use of the student or the specialist, though such persons may haply find it INTEODUCTION, ix useful in giving them direction how to reach some object of their search, or in pointing out the resting place for man and beast nearest thereto. It will fulfil its intention if it enables more ordinary people to garner, at a small outlay of time or money, some of the " harvest of a quiet eye " that maritime East England richly yields. Accommodation is abundant and good, and supplied as a rule at a reasonable charge. In our list of hotels, where several are named, it may be assumed that those at the head of the list are " first-class," and that those towards the end are of a more or less " commercial " cha- racter. To the inexperienced traveller we would say that the fact that an inn does not face the sea is often a sign that it is an old-established house, the quality of whose fare is not to be measured by the extent of the view from the windows. At Happisburgh there is a good hotel, but in the summer it is generally full, so that the prudent traveller will do well to secure his bed beforehand. At Mundesley there are inns and a few lodgings. Dunwich has a comfortable inn. At Holkham, the Victoria is excellent and a very pleasant place of sojourn. Of the waterside inns on the rivers and broads a good word must be said. They are generally well pro- visioned, clean, and moderate in their prices, both for entertainment and boat-hire. In the course of excursions by road we have frequently mentioned public-houses of the poorest character, and unless something is said to the contrary, it may be assumed that they only afford the means of passing refreshment to the cyclist or pedestrian, unless he is prepared to be content with a very humble lodging. Vacating* and Boatings—From a boat only can the peculiar, and, in its way, often beautiful scenery of the Broad district be seen and appreciated. For those un- skilled in watermanship, or who do not care to charter a sailing boat and skipper, an easy and inexpensive way of seeing the rivers is to take passage in one of the numerous trading barges, called wherries, that ply between Norwich, Wroxham, Beccles, and the coast. Five shillings per voyage will go a long way towards paying the fare and providing refreshment. Geology.—This subject lies outside the purpose of this book, but the amateur fossil-collector will be glad to know that the cliff at Hunstanton is a mine of wealth. ;; x INTRODUCTION. and that the Coralline or White Crag (eregganma shell) is well exposed at Aldeburgh and Orford, and the Red Crag at Bawdsey, Felixstowe, and Walton-on~the-Naze. A great part of Norfolk and Suffolk is overlaid with glacial drift, so that to the uninitiated the colouring of an ordinary geological map is misleading. Judging by that one might expect to find cliffs from the Wash to Yarmouth, similar to the chalk cliffs of Kent and Sussex, whereas they are to the ordinary eye composed mainly of sand and mud with, for a considerable distance—from Eunton to beyond Happisburgh—layers of sand and clay at then- base, yielding many bones of the larger mammals together with cones of the Scotch fir and spruce. Antiquities.—The following are the principal ancient monuments, exclusive of parish churches, noticed in this volume : British : The castle mounds at Castle Rising, Castle Acre, and Norwich, and (perhaps) the so-called Roman entrenchments at Lexden, near Colchester. Roman : The walls of Colchester ; Burgh Castle, near Yarmouth ; Caister St. Edmund, near Norwich. Norman (wholly or in part) : Castle Acre (Castle and Priory) ; Castle Rising ; Norwich Castle : Colchester Castle and St. Botolph's Priory ; Castle Hedingham (perhaps) Orford Castle ; Norwich and Ely Cathedrals Abbey Tower at Bury St. Edmunds; Binham Priory; Bromholm Priory, Of later work are Walsingham Abbey Framlingham Castle ; Leiston Abbey ; Caister Castle, near Yarmouth ; St. Osyth's Priory. 1 Fishing . —The rivers and broads of Norfolk and Suffolk are beyond question the most prolific waters for coarse fish to be found anywhere in Great Britain, and almost all of them are free: Pike, bream, roach, abound everywhere, and perch are caught in good numbers where the bottom is hard. The fish most common is the bream, which often runs to 5 lbs. or 6 lbs. in weight. For the Yare, Norwich and Yarmouth ; for the JBure, Norwich and Cromer ; for the Thurne, Yarmouth ; for Oulton Broad and the Waveney, Lowestoft, are the best towns to stop at. Of riverside places Acle and Horning Ferry (3 m. from Wroxham Station) come first. The Nottingham style of fishing is best for the Bure ; a tight line "with a good sized float for the Yare. Fine tackle should be used. A good ground-bait is a mixture of boiled wheat, rice and bread INTEODUCTION. si and for the lower reaches of the Tare (for bream) chopped lob- worms should be added. It is important to plumb the depth and to fish well on the bottom for bream, just touching it for roach, just clear of it for perch. For pike no rule can be given, except the general ones: do not spin too low and live-bait just above the weeds. Mr. C. J. Greene, of Norwich (hon. sec. Yare Preservation Society) will give full information about any fishing station the angler proposes to visit, and can supply all needful tackle. We take this opportunity of acknowledging our indebtedness to Mr. Robt. Moll, of the same city, for allowing us to make use of his intimate knowledge of the whole district. 1 *« X! 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O 2 03 *H 5 ad s gsgi a a a _l O O kT © s N © e3 O TJ ja ©. d d a> c £ 53 PI .2 *- o .2 ^ .2 '3 S 8 ^ >>£ " * $ 2 ^ II S^ilSflA € 4 I & If! 5 *2.2 12 ti-oSS-HO M*> ,« 8 £^*3 o o a> i2 r-soor-i'a+s eg d cics ee -m 13 ^-5^so P3 2 -ScUSS fl £ § £ § 2 3 •5s * *£ -»-.S cfl W M eo ^ .3 *+§ «*5 fe=M^5 tic w •rH ^ O O +3 n3 ^2 :*? >S U © <5 00 •a h h 55 szgs-r*: O rv O.J3 m (i) ^o 2 ^ m.5^^ ib w no .2*** a jd pq to co 5 O J-J 3 * £M -111 1 | I w a 5 5 «5 »s § I I Ir: ?A I s i Cj «o £EtS s g ® o «» s ° H I ^ »e g 1 g l i» ^. a" £ ^ "5 Eh c3 O g ws -§ 1-5? 3 a £ a . a <1 &4 pq w a I ^H s Ormesby. mouth. i Railway. Ph Q 02 W 41 xvi - "* v> a "8 «° o"^P S^i *£.2.S »» J2 tf ^ ~ 3 © bo fl a» o a fc -S 5 .2 s S S p u a w^» p -Sa s^d-3 2^ m *° "*2 «-i ® C3.Q« go S§ 5 m IS ^ s s 2 S * 4 « O rt fl S Op a » Si aj §w-J's^ &l r 5 P "So u PQ 00 P=< . >>§si O PB| go B> 03 . O (D QQ §|£ 1 iill s s 3qq a ss w to o s a-s en ,*-i s-i : gtypntrite*. General remarks. Those whose railway experiences in the district between the Thames and the Wash reach back some quarter of a century, may be pardoned if they still associate with a journey in that district nearly all the disagreeables producible by unenterprising and much divided railway management. In the days to which we refer none of the great railways provided anything approaching the present-day facilities for rapid and cheap travel, yet tried even by.the low standard of five and twenty " years ago, the " Eastern Counties —under which name many distinct companies were popularly lumped—was a by-word. In recent years this reproach has been removed, and the chief places in East Anglia have now a train service that will bear comparison with the western and northern lines. With the exception of the Eastern and Midlands Railway, which has lines radiating from Melton Constable to Lynn, Holt, Yarmouth, and Norwich, the Southend Railway, the Colne Valley Railway (Castle Hedingham, London to Southend, 42 miles ; 1 hour* ; 2 hrs. Clacton-on-Sea, 70 miles; 2£ hrs. Walton-on-the-Naze, 71J miles ; 2| hrs. Dovercourt and Harwich, 70 miles ; 2 hrs. Felixstow, 85f miles ; 2§ hrs. Aldeburgh. 94| miles ; 3£ hrs. Southwold, 109£ miles ; 3| hrs, Lowestoft, 117J miles ; 3£ hrs. Yarmouth, 121 miles ; 3| hrs. Cromer, 142 miles ; 4£ hrs. Hunstanton, 114£ miles ; 3| hrs. Norwich, 114 miles ; 3 hrs. • These trains start only from Fenchurch Street and Southend at about 6 p.m. and 9 a.m. respectively, and are 1st and 2nd class only. Most other trains ran also to and from Liverpool Street. Guide, VL B ; 2 LONDON TO CAMBRIDGE. During the summer months steamers ply between London, Southend, Harwich, and Yarmouth, and call at Clacton-on-Sea. In the following " Approaches " only such points are noticed as are seen from the line, or are worth breaking the journey to visit. Colchester, Ipswich, Cambridge, Ely, Norwich, fall under the latter category. London to Cambridge, 58 on; Ely, 72$ m; Lynn, 99} m; and Hunstanton, 114$ m. By leaving London at 9 a.m., 3£ hrs. can be given to Cambridge and 2£ hrs. to Ely en route, and Hunstanton be reached about 6.15 p.m. The first few miles of this route are through the north-eastern suburbs of London. Between Angel Road, 1\ m., and Bonder's End, 10 m, we have on the right the wooded heights of Epping Forest, culminating in High Beech. At Waltham Abbey, 13 m. f the Abbey Church, of which alone the nave remains, now the Parish Church, is away on the right. Next follow Cheshunt, famed for its rose gardens, and Broxbourne, 17£ m., with a fine Perpendicular church on the left, and then, crossing the River Lea, we enter Essex ; Harlow (261 ™") Church is seen on the right, and Sawbridgeworth (30 m.) Church, Dec, left, followed by Great Hyde Hall, Earl of Boden, a fine mansion close to the line on the right. After two or three miles of uninteresting and bare country, we reach Bishop's Stortjord, 32£ m., the first stopping place by the afternoon through trains. The slim tower and spire of the church are prominent on the left, and on the same side just after leaving the station is a tree-topped mound that marks the site of the Norman castle destroyed by King John. More village churches right and left, and then, after passing Newport Station, 42£ m., Shortgrove Park and House are on our right. Of the great seat, Audley End (Lord Braybrooke), nothing is visible from the train except a glimpse of an obelisk, right, between the two tunnels that pierce Ring Hill. We are now in the valley of the infant River Cam, and the route onward to Cambridge has little of interest. More churches —Littlebury and Little Chesterford on the right ; Ikleton, left Great Chesterford, right—succeed in the order they are named. The low Gogmagog Hills, mere undulations of the chalk, are then seen on the right, and on the same side, close to the line, a small obelisk that marks Nine Wells, one of the sources of the water-supply of Cambridge. The block of red brick buildings on the right as we enter Cambridge is the recently established Cavendish College. For route onward to Hunstanton see page 18. CAMBRIDGE Scale of Quarter Mile tatfrrftfp. Hotels: University Arms, in Eegent Street, at the corner of Parker's Piece ; Bull, in Trumpington Street ; Lion, in Petty Boar, Cury ; Hoop, in Bridge Street ; Blue in Trinity Street; Bird Bolt, in St. Andrew's Street. Post Office: In St. Andrew's Street, opposite Christ's College. Telegraph Office. Population: 35,372. Tram cars run from the station by St, Andrew's Street to the Post Office, and by Lensfield Road and Trumpington Street to the Market Place, Omnibuses and flies meet all trains, Cambridge is a great railway junction. In addition to the many diverging lines of the G.E.E., among which one of the latest openings is the connexion via Ely and March with Lincoln and Doncaster, there are converging branches of the G.N.E., M.E., and L. & N.W.E. The station is to the south of the town, from the centre of which, the Market Place, it is nearly a mile and a half distant. The town of Cambridge dates back before the Conquest, and William I. built a castle here in 1068, the site of which may still be traced (see N.W. corner of plan), but for many cen- turies past the interests of the place have centred in the university alone. When the university was founded is quite unknown, and the earliest certain date connected with it is 1231, when sundry writs for its regulation were issued by Henry III. At that date, however, it already appears as an organised whole. The first college founded was St. Peter's, 1280, previously to which the students either lived in * hostels ' or lodged in the town. The following list gives the names and dates of foundation of the several colleges, though it should be borne in mind that the dates given are those of the existing foundations, which in certain cases, e.g. Trinity, represent the remodelling of older foun- dations. St. Peter's, 1280. Jesus, 1497. Pembroke, 1348. Christ's, 1505. Gonville,1348, and Caius, 1557. St. John's, 1509. Trinity Hall, 1350. St. Mary Magdalene, 1542. Corpus Christi, 1352. Trinity, 1546. Clare, 1360. Emmanuel, 1584. King's, 1440. Sidney Sussex, 1589. Queens', 1448. Downing, 1800. St. Catherine's, 1475. B2 4 CAMBEIDGE. ~.. . The first two of these recent foundations liirton. are £or womeil) an(j the last named for young ijewnnam. V men> Th haye t present only a quaii . Cavendish. J university character. "Walk through the Town. The following perambulation embraces all the chief points of interest in the university and town. No passing day-visitor can of course hope to see all we describe, but we have adopted the route chosen because it is the walk that will most conveniently show him the outside of all there is to be seen, and he can in the course of it inspect such interiors as time permits. Those leaving London about 9 a.m., and wishing to reach Hunstanton about 6.15 p.m., can have 6 hours, and by reaching Hunstanton about 9 p.m , 8£ hours at Cambridge. The best plan for the visitor with less time than this at his disposal is to drive to the Market Place or St. John's College. The chief sights are St. John's, Trinity, and King's Colleges, getting from one or other a peep at the backs of the Colleges and of Clare College. Queens' College should also be visited if possible. We leave the station by Station Boad, which runs into Hill's Road. In half a mile we pass on the right the uninteresting church of St. Paul. 250 yards beyond St. Paul's, on the same side, Gonville Place leads to Parker's Piece, a large open green used by several cricket, &c. clubs, and to the University Cricket Ground, formerly Fenner's. Hill's Koad is succeeded by the somewhat mean Regent Street, on the left of which is the entrance to Downing* College. Downing was founded in 1800, under the will of Sir Geo. Downing (d. 1749). Its few buildings, in debased classic style, are without interest, but a short detour through the grounds and along the avenue leading to Downing Street, enables Emmanuel College to be approached in front, and so to be seen to advantage. If Downing College be omitted, we continue down Regent Street past the University Arms Hotel (excellent) to Emmanuel College, founded 1584, by Sir Walter Mildmay, Chancellor of the Exchequer under Elizabeth. Of the original buildings by Ralph Simons only a small part,—" the old buildings "—remains. The front, facing St. Andrew's Street, dates from about 1770. The chapel, with its cloister and picture gallery, above the cloister opposite the entrance, is a century older, and by Sir Christopher Wren. The "old buildings" are reached through the south end of the chapel cloister. A new court on the north side of the hall is, on two sides, of poor early 19th century gothic. On the east side of this court is the library, a plain building, once the chapel. Hall, Bishop of Norwich (d. 1656); Archbishop Sancroft, the non- juror ; Temple, the patron of Swift ; and Gell, the antiquary, were Emmanuel men. Two hundred yards beyond Emmanuel, in St. Andrew's Street, opposite the modern church of St. Andrew the Great, is Christ's College, founded in 1505 by Lady Margaret, Countess of Rich- mond, and mother of Henry VII. The arms of the foundress are over the entrance. This college (except the Fellows' buildings CAMBRIDGE. 5 which are good) has little beauty, thanks to " restoration early in the last century, but as (1625-1632) it was the college of Milton, it claims the visitor's attention. The poet's rooms were on the first-floor of the first staircase, on the left of the main court as we enter. The Tree Court, a little later than the time of Milton's residence, has been attributed to Inigo Jones. In the garden which is picturesque, is a venerable mulberry Tree, said to have been planted "by Milton, that in spite of the loss of two or three large limbs still flourishes and bears fruit abundantly. An original bust (in clay) of Milton is in the college library. Whilst at college Milton wrote amongst other poems his ode on Christ's Nativity. His Lycidas, written in 1637, was to the memory of Edward King, a fellow of the college. The MSS. of this and of some other of his poems are in Trinity College Library. Bishop Latimer, the martyr ; Leland, the antiquary ; Francis Quarles, author of the Emblems ; Paley, of the Evidences ; are among the best known of former members of this college. The street on the right beyond Christ's College, called nobson's Iiane, preserves the memory of the carrier and livery-stable keeper, whose stringent rule of letting his horses in regular rotation gave rise to the expression " Hobson's choice." Continuing onward along Sidney Street, past Holy Trinity Church (tower, Decorated; nave and transepts, Perpendicular; chancel, modern and poor), of which the celebrated Charles Simeon long was vicar, we reach Sidney Sussex College, founded in 1589 by Frances Sidney, Countess of Sussex, on the site of a Franciscan monastery that, until its dissolution in 1538, was the head of many houses of that order in England, and had an academic character. The original buildings were of brick and picturesque, but the cement and gothic of Sir Jeffrey Wyatville, 50 years ago, destroyed all their beauty and interest. Oliver Cromwell was a fellow-commoner here for a year, but took no degree. In the dining-room at the Master's lodge is a crayon portrait of the Protector, by Samuel Cooper, the miniature painter (d. 1672), and in the library his face, by Bellini, from a cast taken after death. Thomas Fuller of the Worthies, and Thomas Wilson, Bishop of Sodor and Man, were educated at Sidney. Returning from Sidney, a few yards, we turn, left, by Sussex Street into Hobson's Lane, and then to the left again into King Street, and thence by Malcolm Street into Jesus Lane. Here, turning to the right, we have opposite the Decorated modern Church of All Saints (tower and spire 165 feet high), the gates of Jesus College. The approach, by a walled-in passage, is un- worthy of this picturesque and nourishing college. The founda- tions already noticed have all been " small colleges." To this category Jesus, until the last 20 years, belonged ; but it now ranks third, i.e., next after Trinity and St. John's in the number of its undergraduates. Jesus College was founded in 1497 by Alcock. — 6 CAMBRIDGE. Bishop of Ely, on the site and with the property of a Benedictine Convent, dating from about 1133, that had been too intimate in its relations with the university. The tower, through which we enter the college, is Alcock's work, and good Perpendicular notice his rebus, three cocks' heads. His statue, modern, is in the niche above the gateway. The first court, of three sides, but open on the west, is pretty with ivy. The good (Per- pendicular) doorway, on the east side, leading into the second court, is probably the oldest part, as the main portions of this court were built about 1640. The second court, with early 16th century cloisters, has on the east the Hall, and on the south the Chapel, the former of which is Bishop Alcock's work, and worth inspection. The Chapel is, however, the main attraction at Jesus. It consists of the presbytery, transepts, and part of the nave of the cruciform convent church. In the transepts are some remains of late Norman work, but the rest is chiefly Early English, with late Perpendicular alterations by Bishop Alcock, to whom is due the transformation of the original church into a college chapel, with ante-chapel. The east lancets are modern, and a return to the style of the original lights, for which the founder of the college had substituted a late Perpendicular window. From the north side of the cloisters we can enter the third court. North of the Chapel is a new court in Alcock's style. Archbishop Cranmer was a fellow of Jesus; and S. T. Cole- ridge was an undergraduate, 1790-3, but took no degree. Returning to Jesus Lane, we torn to the right. By turning to the left and then crossing Midsummer Common the river Cam and the university and college boat-houses can be reached in about J mile from Jesus gates. Along Bridge Street (i.e., turning to the right from Jesus Lane) is the way to Magdalene College. On the way, all on the right hand, we pass the Hoop Hotel (comfortable) ; the Union Society ; St. Sepulchre's (or Eound) Church; St. ClemenVs Church, and then crossing the Cam reach Magdalene. St. Sepulchre's (or Round) Church, Norman, is the oldest of the four round churches in England. The others are the Temple Church, London; St. Sepulchre's, Northampton; and Little Maplestead. It was well restored 1841-2, when the chancel, Perpendicular, was rebuilt. Note the good west doorway. The body of the church consists of a circular nave surrounded by an aisle, from which it is separated by an arcade resting on eight piers. Above the aisle is the triforium, and above that some small lights forming a kind of clerestory. This interesting church belonged to the Priory (founded in the latter half of the 11th century) at Barnwell (a suburb of Cambridge beyond Jesus College, on the Newmarket road), of which a few fragments only remain* CAMBRIDGE. 7 St. Clement's Oiurcli, Early English, is devoid of interest. The " inscription over its west door Deum Cole" preserves the memory of C. N. Cole, the legal antiquary (d. 1804), under whose will the tower was built. Magdalene Collegre, founded 1542, is on the site of Bucking- ham College or Monk's Hostel, which had been dissolved after an existence of about a century as a kind of training-school for monks. The buildings as seen from the bridge are picturesque, but the only portion of especial interest is the Pepyslan library, built in 1688. Here is preserved the MS., in short- hand, of the well-known Diary, which was only given the light in 1825 ; and in the collection are many early printed books of great rarity. Admission to the library can only be obtained by order from a Fellow of the Society. Beyond Magdalene are the two small churches (left) St. Peter's (right) St. Giles, both of which are partly Norman. A little further on are the County Courts and County Gaol, adjoining the Castle Mound, which marks the site of the Conqueror's Castle. After passing Magdalene, by turning left along Northampton Street, the so-called School of Pythagoras may be visited. It is close to the Merton Ian, and consists of the remains of a Norman manor house. It belongs to Merton College, Oxford, but is of small interest even to the antiquary. Returning by Bridge Street, we turn to the right into St. John's Street, and have on the left the new Divinity Schools, good, (by Mr. B. Champneys) opposite St. Joint's Collegre. This is the second largest college, and numbers something over 400 under- graduates. Architecturally, too, it has a foremost place, espe- cially since the erection of its new chapel, the east end of which is well seen on the right as we approach from Bridge Street. St. John's was founded in 1509, under the will of Lady Margaret, Countess of Bichmond, mother of Henry VII., on the site of St. John's Hospital, a charitable foundation dating from about 1170. Of the hospital, however, nothing remains, though some Early English fragments of its chapel were discovered in removing the old college chapel a few years ago, and the arches of a piscina so found have been inserted in the new chapel. As we enter the gateway we note the figure of St. John, and below it the arms of Lady Margaret. The first court, though the oldest part of the college (about 1520), was much altered during the last century, and now that it has been enlarged by the erection of the new chapel on a site somewhat to the north of the old one, which originally formed its north side, it retains little of its original character. The gateway opposite to us, as we enter from the street, and the hall to the right of it, are the best of the old work. No modern work has been more adversely criticised than the chapel, Early Decorated, of which the ground-plan is a St. Anthony's cross, or J_, with a plain massive square tower, 142 ft., rising from the point of intersection. The absence of aisles makes the height of the chapel, 80 ft., seem even loftier, and so gives the tower a somewhat stunted appearance. Of the exterior, the chief points to be noted are the exquisite doorway on the east ; 8 CAMBRIDGE. of the south transept, and the eighteen buttresses of the apse, with niches containing figures of the following worthies : (Beginning with the westernmost on the south side.) ], Sir William Cecil, Lord Burleiph ; 2. Lucius, Lord Falkland ; 3. Williams, Bishop of Lincoln, and later Archbishop of York, founder of the college library ; 4. Thomas Wentwortn, Strafford; 5. Barlof William Gilbert (d. 1603), noted magneticlan ; 6. Roger Ascham ; 7. Mary (Cavendish), Countess of Shrewsbury, began building of 2nd court ; 8. Richard Bentley, the critic, in 1 700 made Master of Trinity College. (At east end.) 9. Stillingfleet, Bishop of Worcester ; 10. Overall, Bishop of Nor- wich. (On north side going westward.) 11. Gunning, Bishop of Chichester, then of Ely, Master of the College; 12. Sarah, Duchess of Somerset ; 13. Thomas Clarkson, opponent of slave trade 14. ; Brook Taylor (d. 1731), mathematician ; 15. Thomas Linacre (d. 1524), instrumentaHn founding College of Physicians 16 and 17. Not yet filled ; 18. Thomas Baker, antiquary. The interior dimensions are : ante-chapel (tower and transepts), 74 ft. 8 in. by 32 ft. ; chapel, 137 ft. 10 in. by 34 ft., and 63 ft. in height. The tower, being open to the transepts to a height of 84 ft., adds much to the dignity of the ante-chapel, which is divided from the chapel by a delicately carved screen. The chapel is, next to Edinburgh Cathedral, the most elaborate work of the late Sir G. Scott. To the uncritical eye the effect of the rich colouring and general chasteness of detail will be pleasing but, as already hinted, the architectural merits of the building have been much disputed. On the south side of the sacrarium are two interlacing arches which were over a double piscina in the south wall of the chapel of St. John's Hospital. The 19 bays of the vaulted oak roof are illuminated with figures representative of the 19 Christian centuries, and begin at the east end with Our Lord in glory. The Hall, part of the original college, adjoins the south tran- sept of the chapel. It was lengthened in that direction by Sir G. Scott, and has a fine roof. The Second Court, which is the work of Ealph Simons (about 1600), and architecturally perhaps the most satisfactory court in Cambridge, owes much of its charm to its uniformity. The Third Court, built in 1623-4, is also architecturally of the highest interest. It abuts on the river, and is connected by a bridge with the New Court, Gothic, 1827-31. The latter, for its date, is good, though in these days of a more thorough know- ledge of its style it is to be regretted that its erection was not deferred for a generation. The Master's Lodge, formerly in the Second court, now between the college and Bridge Street, is modern, and the work of Sir G. Scott. Of distinguished alumni St. John's has a long roll, in which the best known names are Roger Ascham ; Cartwright, the Puritan Robert Cecil, Lord Salisbury; "Thorough" Strafford; Lord Falk- land, fell at Newbury ; Bentley, the critic ; Kirke White ; Home Tooke ; Henry Martyn ; Wordsworth, the poet. By quitting the New court by its south gate we reach " the backs of tlie colleges, " where fine timber, greeen sward, CAMBBIDGE. 9 numerous bridges, and the river unite with buildings on the right bank of the last named in composing a scene of great beauty, on no account to be missed by the most hurried visitor. We recross the river by Trinity Bridge, noting the fine lime avenue stretching far away westward. The long building on the left is the Library of Trinity College. [Those visiting Trinity direct from Trinity Street will take the courts in reverse order. The order here given has the recommendation of beginning with the least interesting court.'] The New (or King's) Court, built about 1825, is devoid of interest. To the east of it is Bishop 9 s Hostel, 1668-70, and Nevile's Gate, the latter worth the few steps needful to reach it. On the north side of New Court, through the cloister, we enter Nevile's (or Cloister) Court. The cloister runs round three sides. The north and south sides of the court were by Simons, but have been completely altered since his time. The Hall forms the east uncloistered side. Over the west cloister is the Xibrary, by Sir Christ. Wren, reached by a staircase,* at the north end. It is a noble chamber, 190 feet by 40 feet. The chief objects of interest, in addition to the 80,000 vols, of printed books and many MSS. of great value, are the carving of the book-cases by Grinling Gibbons, and the casts and busts of eminent men. Of busts that of Tenny- son, by Woolner, is especially good. At the end of the library is Thorwaldsen's statue of Byron. The Canterbury Psalter is an illuminated 12th century MS. of great beauty. Here too are the MSS. of several of Milton's poems, including that of the uLycidas." The Hall (Nevile's work, 1604), approached by a flight of steps * on the east of Nevile's Court, is on the left of the screens ' that divide it from the kitchens. The fine roof, screen and oriel win- dows are its most noticeable features, and of the pictures that of Sir Isaac Newton at the north end, and of Eichard III. in the glass of one of the oriels. At dinner time the hall is one of the sights of Cambridge. We now pass into the old or Great Court, of which, from the steps leading from the screens, we get perhaps the best view. This court, the largest in Cambridge, is not quite rectangular, and measures along its sides, N. 256 ft., S. 287, ft., E. 325 ft., W.344ft. On the north side are the chapel and King Edward's (III.) Tower. On the east is the King's Gateway, the main entrance to the col- lege. On the south is the Queen's (Mary I.) Tower, and on the west we have beyond the hall, on our left, the Master's Lodge. The Conduit is Nevile's work, and to him the court owes its pre- sent arrangement, though some parts are older than his time (d. 1615). The Chapel, built about 1554-6, is plain externally with a good (modern) entrance porch. Its total length including the antechapel is 210 feet. In the antechapel is Boubilliao's famous * The altars, &c, at the foot of the staircase were collected by Sir Robert Cotton, at Risingham and High Rochester, north of the wall of Hadrian in Northumberland, on the Watling Street. 10 CAMBRIDGE. statue of Sir Isaac Newton, given to the college by Dr. Robert Smith, master 1742-1768, and on either side of it those of Bacon and Barrow. There are also good statues of Macaulay and Whewell, both by Woolner. Bentley, master 1700-1742, remodelled the interior of the chapel. The fine organ screen, the altar canopy, the wainscoting with ex- quisite carving by Gibbons, and the windows filled with glass from designs by Holiday, are all of great merit. The last named, 8 on the north side and 7 on the south, each contain eight figures arranged 4 above and 4 below. The east window is hidden by the altar canopy. The figures in the side windows are arranged mainly chronologically from east to west, beginning with the eastern- most on the south side. South side. North side. 1. The four evangelists. Andrew, Philip, Nathaniel, Nico- demus. James, Peter, Paul, Apollos. The Virgin, Martha, Thomas, Mary Magdalene. 2. Barnabas, Stephen, Timothy, Clement of R., Ignatius, Justin M., Phcebe. Pantaenus. Cornelius, Dionysius, Lydia, One- Perpetua, Tertullian, Origen, Cyprian. simus. 3. Athanasius, Basil, Ephraem S., Ambrose, Jerome, Monica, Augustine. St. Chrysostom. Eusebius, Constantine, Helena. Martin of Tours, Leo the Great, Bene- Justinian. dict, Gregory the Great. 4. Alban, Augustine of Cant., Bertha, Charles the Great, Thomas Aq., Louis Theodore. IX., Dante. Boniface, Bede, Alcuin, Alfred. Columban, Gregory VII., Francis d'A., Giotto. 5. De Montfort, Matt. Paris, Edward Lanfranc, Anselm, a Becket, Langton. I., R. Bacon. Black Prince, Duns Scotus, Hugh of Lincoln, Grosseteste, Wil- Chaucer, Caxton. liam of Wykeham, Wolsey. 6. Wycliffe, Erasmus, Tyndal, Cran- Sigibert, Etheldreda, Henry III., mer. Hugh of Balsham. Latimer, Edward VI., Kidley, Harvey of Stanton, Edward III., Elizabeth. Henry VIII., Mary I. 7. Bacon, Donne, G. Herbert, Lord William of Buxton, John of Bagshot, Coke. Fisher, Tnnstall. Spelman, Lord Craven, Andrew John Redman, Bucer, Whitgift, Marvel, Bishop Hackett. Nevile. 8. Pearson, Barrow, Cowlpy, Dryden. Ray, Cotes, Newton, Bentley. The organ, one of Father Smith's enlarged by Hill, is the best in Cambridge, and one of the finest in the kingdom. The King's Gateway, by which we re-enter Trinity Street, is a worthy portal to the great quadrangle. Its lower part dates from the reign of Edward IV., but its upper part from that of Henry VIII., whose statue fills the niche. On the opposite side CAMBEIDGE. 11 of the street is Whewell's Hostel, begun in 1860. To the left of this are the new Divinity Schools by Mr. Basil Champneys. Trinity occupies the site of several older foundations ; King's Hall, founded by Edward III., and Michael House, founded by Harvey of Stanton, Chancellor of the Exchequer under Edward II., were the principal of these. Henry VIII., the founder of the college, in 1546 added to the surrendered property of these houses, and started his foundation with an income of £1,800 per annum. A list of the celebrated men educated at Trinity would fill pages. Of modern names, Byron, Macaulay, Thackeray and Tennyson are perhaps the most widely known. Proceeding along Trinity Street, past St. Michael's Church (Decorated), restored by Sir Gilbert Scott, we come to Gonville and Calus College—known as " Keys." This, as its full name implies, had two founders. The original foundation, 1348, Gon- ville Hall, was the work of Edm. de Gonville, rector of Kushworth and Terrington in Norfolk, and Gonville Court, though much altered is part of his buildings. The college was refounded in 1557, by Dr. John Caius, Physician to Edward VI. The New Court that adjoins Trinity Street, is by Waterhouse. The entrance is under a lofty tower on the south side. This new court is of much merit, and the fine trees help to remove the sense of its new- ness. The spiral staircase in theN.E. corner should be examined. The second, or Caius Court, was built by Dr. Caius in 1564 and is interesting. Its most noticeable features are the gates of 'Honour' and * Virtue.' Over the latter Dr. Caius lived. The third gate, of Humility,' was rebuilt when the New Court replaced the old outer court. The inner, or Gonville Court, was part of the first foundation, but was cased with stone in the last century. The chapel, which is between Caius and Gonville Courts, has a new apse, but its oldest portions, late 14th cent., were hidden by a stone casing at the time that Gonville Court was similarly treated. Inside it is not of much interest, though the founders' monuments are curious. The hall, rebuilt in 1854, is Jacobean and pleasing. Among the best known of Caius men are Butts, physician to Henry VIII., Judge Jeffreys, Lord Chancellor Thurlow, and Hook- ham Frere. The classical building close to the principal entrance to Caius College is the Senate House, where the university examinations are held, degrees are conferred, and other university business transacted. It has a good ceiling, and contains statues of George I., George II., Duke of Somerset, chancellor 1688-1746, and Wm. Pitt—the last by Nollekens and good. Just beyond the Senate House is the University x> ibrary , the entrance to which is through the arcade. The ground floor is occupied by the Schools, the library being on the first floor. The library, with the Bodleian at Oxford, ranks next amongst English collections after that of the British Museum. It numbers some 300,000 volumes. Among its greatest treasures is the Codex Bezse, a Grseco-Latin MS. of the ; 12 CAMBRIDGE. 6th century, containing the Gospels and Acts and a fragment of 3 John. It was given to the library by Beza, in 1581. The library had its beginning in the collection of Langley, Bishop of Durham (d. 1437). Great St. Mary's, or the University Church, opposite to the Senate House, is late Perpendicular. It was restored by Sir G. Scott, but is of little interest. The tower is admirable. By Senate House Passage, between Caius College and the Senate House, we can reach the Geological Museum, which owes much of its value to, and will ever recall, the 50 odd years' devotion of the late Professor Sedgwick. Beyond the museum on the right is Trinity Hall, and to the left Clare College. Trinity Hall has no claims on the sight-seer. Of the original buildings nothing survives. It is the only " Hall " now left in Cambridge, and is a " College " in everything but name. It was founded in 1350, and among its best known sons have been Holinshed, the chronicler (d. about 1580), and to come to modern days, John Sterling (d. 1844), the critic. Gardiner, the Marian Bishop of Winchester, died master of the Hall in 1555 Clare College, originally founded as University Hall in 1326, takes its name from Lady Elizabeth de Clare, a daughter of Gilbert, Earl of Gloucester, and granddaughter of Edward I. She increased its endowments and altered its name. The buildings more than once suffered by fire, and the present ones, with the exception of the chapel, 1767-9, were erected between 1639 and 1715. There is only one court, but this externally is one of the architectural gems of Cambridge. In spite of the many years over which the work of building was spread, the original 17th century design was carried out. Internally the lines of the court are perhaps a little too formal, but taken as a whole the effect is pleasing. The entrance to the court is by a quaint and picturesque gateway on the east side. By crossing the court we can reach the river or west front, which, as seen from Clare Bridge, or a little higher up the river from King's Bridge, is very beautiful. The river, the lawns, the bridges, here combine with King's and Clare to make a picture justly celebrated. At the Master's Lodge is a Poison Cup of silver and glass. Its name is derived from the reputed virtue of a stone in the cover to detect poison in the cup. Archbishop Tillotson ; William Whiston, translator of Josephus James Harvey, author of Meditations among the Tombs, were Clare men. King's College, founded by Henry VI., in 1440, and enlarged in 1443, as a college for Etonians to whose use until quite recently it was limited, is close to Clare on the south, and may be entered from the west, after viewing the river-side of Clare. It consists of one quadrangle, separated from King's Parade by a poor Gothic screen erected in 1828. The chapel is on the north, and the hall on the south side of the quadrangle. The Chapel alone need long detain the visitor. This was begun by Henry VI. shortly CAMBRIDGE. 13 before his deposition in 1461, but for some 25 years progress was slow though assisted by grants from Edward IV. and Richard III. Between 1485 and 1508 nothing was done, but in the latter year Henry VII. gave £5,000, which was supplemented by £5,000 more from his executors in 1513. Thus the main fabric was finished, but another 20 years elapsed before the interior was completed. The whole college was originally intended to be on the same sumptuous scale as the chapel, but this purpose was never carried out. The exterior of the chapel, in spite of its somewhat insignificant corner turrets, is imposing from its length, 316 feet, and height, 90 feet to the parapet. It consists of 12 uniform bays, separated by far-projecting buttresses, between the lower part of each pair of which is a small chapel. The entrance is by a porch at the south-west corner close to the entrance to Clare College. The interior of the chapel is superb. The features that at once arrest attention are the lofty, airy vaulting of the roof and the magnificent stained glass of the windows. These are the chief glories of King's. The former, known as * fan tracery' vaulting, is exquisitely beauti- ful. Of the windows we give details later on. The west-end of ' * the chapel or ante -chapel' is divided from the chapel ' proper by the organ-screen and organ. The organ case is somewhat later than the screen, which was part of the original fittings of the chapel. The organ itself dates from the Revolution, but has been much improved and enlarged during the present century. It is a noble instrument though inferior to that of Trinity. Entering the chapel proper the stalls, partly the original work of Henry VIII., but mainly later, deserve notice, as does the fine brass lectern with a statue of Henry VII. The altar piece is by Ricciarelli (d. 1566). Of the side chapels or chantries no detailed description is required. Some of them contain good glass, notably that of Provost Hacombleyn (d. 1528), who gave the lectern. All the windows of the chapel are filled with stained-glass, and date from 1516 to 1535, except the west window (1879), which is by Clayton and Bell and represents the Last Judgment ; and part of the easternmost window on the south side. Each side window has four designs, the two lower ones from New Testament subjects, the two upper more or less typical of them. The central light in each case is occupied by prophets and angels with scrolls bearing illustrative texts. The order of the windows described below is from the west along the north side and back by the south side. 1. Joachim's offering refused. Joachim with the Angei Joachim and Anna at the Golden Birth of the Virgin. Gate. S. Tobit's offering. Tobias' Marriage, Presentation of the Virgin. The Virgin's Marriage. 8. Temptation of Eve, The Burning Bush. The Annunciation. The Nativity, 14 CAMBBIDGE. 4. Circumcision instituted. Queen of Sheha. Circumcision of our Lord. Adoration of Wise Men 6. Purification of Women. Jacob's flight from Esau Purification of the Virgin. Flight into Egypt. 6. Moses destroying the two tables. Joash saved from Athaliaj." Egyptian idols fall before our The Holy Innocents. Lord. 7. Naaman in Jordan. Esau selling his birthright Baptism of our Lord. The Temptation. 8. Raising of the Shunamite's Son* The triumph of David. Raising of Lazarus. The Entry into Jerusalem. 9. The Manna. The fall of Satan. The Last Snpper. Gethsemane. 10. Murder of AbeL Shimei cursing David. The Betrayal. The mocking of our Lord. 11. Jeremiah in prison. The shame of Noah. Our Lord before Caiaphas. Our Lord before Herod. 12, Job tempted. Coronation of Solomon. Our Lord scourged. The Crown of Thorns. 13. {The East Window.) The Crucifixion. 14. The Brazen Serpent (Modern). Naomi and her daughters. Christ bewailed. 15. Joseph in the pit. The Exodus. The Burial of our Lord. Our Lord in Hades. 16. Jonah. Tobias returning to hfs mother. The Resurrection. Our Lord appears to His mother. 17. Reuben seeking Joseph. Daniel and Darius. The Women at the Sepulchre. Our Lord appears to Mary Magdalene. 18. Habakkuk and the Angel. Habakkuk feeds Daniel. Journey to Emmaus. The Supper at Emmaus. J 9. Joseph welcomes Jacob. The Prodigal's return. Our Lord appears to Disciples. The doubt of Thomas. 20. Elijah's translation. The giving of the Law. The Ascension. Pentecost. The healing of the lame man. The Scourging of Peter and John. The lame man entering the temple. Death of Ananias. 22, Conversion of Saul. Saul at Damascus. Saul and Barnabas at Lystra. Paul at Iconium. Paul and the Pythoness. Paul before Felix. Paul's adieu. Paul before Caesar. 24. Death of Tobit. Burial of Jacob. Death of the Virgin. Burial of the Virgin. 25. Translation of Enoch. Enthronement of Bathsheba. Assumption of the Virgin. Coronation of the Virgin. 26. {The West Window) The Last Judgment. Of these windows the two westernmost on the south side, Nos. 24 and 25, are nearly undecipherable. For a wide View of Cambridge and its surroundings it is worth while ascending to the roof of the chapel, and those interested in roof construction can examine the top of the vaulting on their way up* CAMBRIDGE. 15 Those who have entered the college from King's Parade should on no account omit a visit to the river- side at King's Bridge. Of many distinguished men educated at King's, we can only name Frith, the martyr, Bishop Pearson of the Creed, Sir Robert and Horace Walpole, and Charles Simeon. Proceeding along King's Parade we have a few yards up Benet Street on the left, St. Benet's Church. This is at once the oldest church and the oldest building in Cambridge. The chief points of interest are the tower, probably Saxon, with balustred windows in its top story ; and the arch of the tower leading into the nave. Observe the curious imposts. Returning to King's Parade which now becomes Trumping- ton Street, we pass the Bull Hotel on the right, and then have on that side St. Catherine's College, and opposite to it Corpus Christi College. The former of these, founded in 1475, has no portion of its original buildings remaining. The present ones, begun late in the 17th century, were not completed till 1755. They are of brick and stone, and the court open to the street is pleasing, though of little interest. The hall, modern gothic, is good but out of harmony with the rest. The chapel has some good carving, and in the hall are a few portraits, but none of particular merit. Corpus Christi College, which is opposite St. Catherine's, has little interest for the passing visitor. Its buildings mainly date from 1823, and the street front and principal court are of poor Perpendicular. A smaller court on the north of the principal one is fairly picturesque, but has no striking features. The college was founded in 1352 by the Guilds of Corpus Christi and the B.V.M., and it soon came to be known as Benet College from the church hard by, already noticed, and it is only in quite recent times that it has reverted to its original style. Parker, afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury, was Master of Corpus from 1544 to 1553, and to him the college owes most of its interesting old plate and its valuable collection of MSS. A fellow's order is required to gain access to these treasures. The plate includes a fine ewer and basin, a salt cellar, 13 'apostle' spoons, a curious cup, and a drinking horn. The MSS. were collected from the dissolved monasteries, and amongst them the most celebrated are a 6th century copy of the Gospels, said to have been sent by Gregory to Augustine, and the original draft of the 39 Articles. Corpus numbers among its celebrated men, Wishart, the martyr; Marlowe and Fletcher, the dramatists, and Samuel Wesley, the father of John and Charles Wesley. Just beyond Corpus, opposite Silver Street, is St. Botolph's Chwrch, Perpendicular, restored. The tower and rood screen are its best features. The building opposite to it, and at the corner of Silver Street, is the Pitt Press, the university printing office. This is often jocularly spoken of as 'the Fresh- man's Church.* We proceed down Silver Street in order to reach Queens' 16 CAMBRIDGE. College. This small but very interesting little college should by no means be missed even by the hurried visitor. Its royal name is derived from Queen Margaret (whose husband, Henry VI. in 1488 made over to her his then recently founded college of St. Mary and St. Bernard) and Queen Elizabeth Woodville (wife of Edward IV.). Entering the first court by the gate tower, in the vaulting of which we notice St. Margaret and St. Bernard, the first point of interest is the Hall. The original hall was either rebuilt or much altered for the worse during the last century. It has now been restored as far as possible to its original condition, and is an excellent example of what restoration should be. The glass is by Hardman. Notice the portrait of Erasmus, who lived in Queens' whilst professor at Cambridge. The Chapel, like the hall, was spoiled in the last century, but has been partly restored. The Second court is the most interesting feature in Queens', and is very quaint and old-world in appearance, with its low surround- ing cloisters. Oa the north side is the President's Lodge, well worth a visit by those who have the privilege of admission. It is of course not open to the public in general. On the south of the second court is Erasmus Court so called from the tradition that Erasmus occupied rooms at the top of the tower. The river can be crossed by a wooden bridge to Erasmus 1 Walk bordered by elms. The best views of the college are from this walk and from the Garden Court. Returning to Trumpington Street, we proceed to Pembroke College at the corner of Pembroke Street. This college takes its present name from Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pem- broke. The Earl was killed in a joust on the day of his mar- riage to Mary de St. Paul, his second wife. His widow, in 1342, founded Denny Abbey, near Waterbeach in Cambridgeshire, and in 1348 a Hall which was named after her " Valence Mary," but which later on became known as Pembroke Hall. There are two courts, neither of them of any great interest, and a range of new buildings, extending a considerable distance along the south side of Pembroke Street. In the first court is the Chapel by Sir Christopher Wren, recently lengthened by the removal and rebuilding of its east end. The Hall, also in this court, is entirely modern, by Waterhouse, and replaces the original one dating from 1360. In the Library, once the chapel, is the Pembroke Anathema cup, so named from an inscription * qui alienaverit anathema sit.' It was given to the college in 1497, by Thomas Langton, Bishop of Winchester. In the Second or inner court is a curious celestial globe, from within which is seen a representation of the heavens. This was the work of Dr. Roger Long, Professor of Astronomy and Master of the College, who died in 1770. Amongst distinguished Pembroke men must be named Bishop Ridley, Ednrmd Spenser, Bishop Andrewes, and William Pitt the younger. Gray was a .Fellow of this college. CAMBRIDGE. 17 Nearly opposite Pembroke and adjoining St. Peter's College is the Church of St. Mary the Less. The original church on this site gave place to the present building, Decorated, in 1352, and down to 1632 was used as the chapel of St. Peter's. The window tracery, especially that of the east window, is excellent, and the church has been well restored. At the back of the church is the New Museum of Archaeology (by Champneys) containing & fine collection of casts. St. Peter's College (or Peterhouse, as it is generally called) will not long detain the visitor. It consists of 3 courts. In the first court the chapel and in the second court the hall alone call for inspection. The Chapel, built in 1632, when Cosin, afterwards Bishop of Durham, was master, has the original glass in the east window. The Munich glass in the side windows is quite out of keeping with a church, though good of its kind. The Hall, Per- pendicular, rebuilt in 1870 by Mr. G. Scott, is good. It probably occupies part of the site of St. John's Hospital, a house that in 1280 made way for the present foundation, which is the oldest college in Cambridge. Its founder was Hugh de Balsham, Bishop of Ely, who thus did for Cambridge what Walter de Merton had six years previously done for Oxford—founded the first acade- mical corporation in the university. The third court, built some half century back, is quite devoid of interest. Among its students, Peterhouse has numbered Cardinal Beaufort, Bishop of Winchester (d. 1447), whose beautiful chantry is in Winchester Cathedral ; Cosin, Bishop of Durham ; and the poet Gray. The only other public building calling for notice is the Fitz- wllllam Museum. This is in Trumpington Street, about 100 yards beyond Peterhouse on the same side. It is open from 10 to 4 on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, and on other days on introduction by a graduate. The street-front is very majestic and well seen, and its classic style is not only good in itself, but a pleasant contrast to the collegiate buildings. It was built under the will of Richard, Viscount Fitzwilliam (d. 1816), who left his library and art collections to the university together with £100,000, the interest of which was to accumulate until sufficient to build a museum. The present buildings were erected from the designs of Mr. Geo. Bassevi (killed by falling from a scaffold at Ely Cathedral in 1845), and Mr. C. R. Cockerell. The marble decora- tion of the hall and the staircase are the work of Mr. C. Barry. The lower floor contains the library and statuary ; the upper floor the picture gallery. It is unnecessary to enumerate the contents of these galleries, as each room is provided with catalogues for the use of visitors. On leaving the museum we can reach the station by continuing along Trumpington Street, past Addenbrooke's Hospital, and then turning left, along Downing Terrace. This last, under the name of Lensfield Road, runs into Regent Street, on reaching which we turn to the right for the station. Guide VL ° 18 ELY. The recent foundations, Oirton and Newnham Halls, both for women, and Cavendish College , have no interest to the sightseer. Selwyn College, recently founded, is prospering. (Route resumed.) The 14£ miles from Cambridge to Ely take about 20 minutes by the best trains. Immediately after leaving Cambridge, where the line crosses the river Cam, a good view of Long Keach on the college- boats' racing course is obtained, and here during the afternoon of term-time numerous eights may be seen at practice. The church at the far end of the reach, as seen from the railway bridge, is Fen ' Ditton. In a few moments Grassy ' Corner, formerly the fashion- able gathering place for visitors to the May boat races, is across the river to the left of the church, and then we pass Clayhithe which marks the beginning of the boat-race course. At Water- beach, 5| miles from Cambridge, is the only station on the way to Ely. About 1J miles from it, and to the west of the line, is a farm-house with considerable remains of Denny Abbey, founded late in the 12th century and enlarged in 1342 by the Countess of Pembroke, who founded Pembroke College. We are now in the heart of the Fens and nothing calls for notice till we reach Ely station. Route continued page 27. <$tu. Hotels i Lamb; Bell; White Hart; Angel Inn, near station* Befreshment rooms at Station, Omnibuses meet all trains. Ely (pop. 8172) is the smallest of English cities. The meaning of its name, * eel island,' indicates the nature of its situa- tion before the draining of the great alluvial plain in which it now stands. The city consists of little more than one main street, which straggles up the slight hill of greensand on which the Cathedral stands. It has no sights to show except the Cathedral and its precincts, but the former of these is one of the finest, and architecturally the most interesting church in Great Britain. It is about half a mile from the station. The Cathedral at Ely maybe said to owe its existence to the reverence felt during the middle ages for Queen Etheldreda. She was the third daughter of Anna, king of East Anglia, and was born about 630, at Exning, some 2 miles N.W. of Newmarket. In 652, against her will, she was married to Tondbert, a prince of the South Fen-men, and had the Isle of Ely settled upon her by him. The marriage was a mere formal union, as Etheldreda had NORWICH CATHEDRAL 2 Rrlir lln„m 7 Bemijwmf, Chapel 14 /;,,/,.,,, i;„i./n;-/n 1>- b Chapel of StWUhJ^""' 10 'wJ,!,,, Tjl T,.,„t'""' KBUhopBathurMTK ELY CATHEDEAL. 19 already dedicated herself to a life of perpetual virginity. Tond- bert soon died, and she then retired to Ely. In 660, a second marriage was forced upon her, this time with Egfrid, son of Oswy, king of Northumbrian Etheldreda, against all entreaties, remained firm to her dedication, and at the instance of Wilfrid, archbishop of York, obtained a divorce in 671, the year after her husband had succeeded to the throne of Northumbria. Etheldreda at once took the veil at Coldingham in Berwickshire, where she remained a year, but then determined to return to Ely. There the only church in the district, built by Augustine, had recently been destroyed by Penda, king of the Mercians. This Etheldreda restored, and then founded hard by a religious house for both sexes, after the pattern of Coldingham, which she endowed with the isle. She became the first abbess, and at once made Ely a centre of religious life to East Anglia. Her rule, however, lasted but a few years, as on June 23, 679, she died after three days' illness of the plague, and was buried in a wooden coffin in the cemetery of the house. Her eldest sister, Sexburga, who for some time had been an inmate at Ely, having quitted the house of her own founding in the Isle of Sheppey, became the next abbess, and in 695 determined to translate Etheldreda's body to the church. No stone for a coffin was to be looked for in the fen country, and so the monks obtained from the ruins of Roman Grantchester (Cambridge) a marble cist. It needs no saying that Etheldreda's body was found to be uncorrupted. When the church and the other buildings were razed by the Danes in 866-7, the sacred relic escaped destruction, and towards the end of the 10th century King Edgar restored the house, which soon became a great Benedictine abbey, and so continued until the See of Ely was founded in 1109, when it was reduced to a priory. To the Norman cathedral, begun in 1083 by Abbot Simeon, Bichard, the last abbot, in 1106 solemnly translated the remains in their old marble coffin, and deposited them close to the high altar. Near by were also laid the bodies of Sexburga, and of her daughter Ermenilda, third abbess, and later on that of Withburga, Etheldreda's youngest sister, stolen from the nuns of Dereham. The Cathedral, externally, appears to small advantage owing to the near presence of buildings. The best general view is from the north side of the Green opposite the Bishop's palace. From this point the west front, the north side of the nave, the north transept with the central lantern, and the west end of the Lady chapel are well seen. The West front is not imposing, owing partly to the absence of the north-west transept, partly to the Galilee which, though very beautiful in itself, is too manifestly an after thought, and partly to the octagonal story of the western tower which harmonises ill with the work below. The western tower and south west transept, late Norman below, Transitional above, are the work of Bishop Ridel (1174-89) and Bishop Longchamp (1189-97). The arcading and enriched C2 30 ELY CATHEDBAL. windows of the south-west transept and its comer towers are very beautiful. The octagonal story of the great west tower is plain Decorated, and dates from the end of the fourteenth century. The Galilee or western porch is Early English, and was attributed by Sir G. Scott to Bishop Eustace (d. 1215). It is of two stories and is lit by three large lancets over the western arch. Perhaps it is the large size of these lights that makes the Galilee harmonise ill with the rest of the west front. The deeply recessed doorway leading into the Cathedral is elaborate, and has been well restored. The doors themselves are old, but the iron work is modern and rather lacking in boldness. Entering the Cathedral the first thing that strikes one is its great length (488 ft. 7 in.). Winchester Cathedral, the longest church in the world, can, from the west, only be seen for 390 ft. of its length, and Ely is the longest interior to be seen at one view. The western tower within forms a noble lantern with a flat roof, which was illuminated in 1855 by the late Mr. Le Strange, of Hunstanton Hall. The original arches of the tower are indicated by the simply toothed mouldings above the present arches, which are Perpendicular. The latter were probably added with a view to strengthening the tower. The south-west transept is lined with blind arcades and is ceiled similarly to the tower ; its illumination, Mr. Gambier Parry's work, is a memorial to the late Professor Selwyn. There are two enriched Norman arches on the east of this transept, the southernmost of which gives entrance to St. Catherine's Chapel, that after being long in ruins was rebuilt in 1848. It is a beautiful work, but disfigured by the too pictorial glass in the apse. The nave (length 208 ft., height to top of clerestory 72 ft. 9 in., to the ceiling 86 ft., width including aisles 77 ft. 3 in.) of twelve bays is late Norman, about 1150—1170. Above the main arcades is a triforium of nearly equal size, with its arches sub-divided by a light column into two others. Above this is a clerestory of triple arches. The ceiling- cuts the vertical wall lines somewhat harshly, but is itself one of the glories of Ely on account of its splendid paintings begun in 1858 by Mr. Le Strange (who painted the six western bays) and finished after his death by Mr. Gambier Parry. The subjects are arranged chronologically from west to east, each main picture having on either hand an Old Testament worthy, bearing a scroll inscribed with a Messianic prophecy. The design increases in richness from west to east. The border is formed of the heads of those named in St. Luke's genealogy of our Lord. The tone of the ceiling is particularly happy and blends perfectly with that of the stone work below. The following table gives the order from west to east, but the best way to view the ceiling is to work westward, in which case the table should be read upwards :— ELY CATHEDRAL. 21 Abraham* The Creation of man. Jacob. Job. 'The Fall. Balaam. Hoses* Noah's sacrifice. Nathan. Jonah*. Abraham and Isaac. Joel. Amos. Jacob's ladder. Hosea. Micah. Marriage of Bath. Isaiah. Daniel. Jesse. Hageai. Jeremiah.- David. Ezekiel. JZechariatu The Annunciation. Nahum. "Malachi. Zephaniah. The Nativity. St. Mark. St. John. St. Matthew. St. Luke. The Adoration by the shepherds and by the Wise men. The LORD in Glory. The nave aisles call for little notice, but the outside of the Prior's door under the fourth window of the south aisle is fine. The windows of this aisle are Norman, with the exception of the tenth, having been altered back again to their original form. They are all filled with coloured glass which is of little interest or beauty. Near the Prior's door stands the base and shaft of an ancient cross brought from Haddenham. The inscription Lucem tuam Ovino da deus et requie Amen refers to Ovinus, Etheldreda's steward, and to judge by the shape of the letters the cross is probably a contemporary memorial. On the second pillar, from the east, of this aisle is a niche, and there is a corresponding one in the north aisle. These mark the western limit of the original choir of the church which, as at Norwich, extended into the nave. The entrance immediately beyond, on the south side, was the Monks' door from the Cloisters. In the north aisle the windows are Perpendicular insertions. They are all filled with stained glass, of which that in the third (from the west) : scenes in the life of Abraham ; that in the sixth David and the minstrels ; and that in the ninth : the restoration of the Shunarnmite's son by Elisha, are the best. Between the nave and choir is the Octagon, from which ex- tend north and south the arms of the transept. For the best view of the octagon the visitor should take up his position under one of the smaller arches connecting it with the aisles. This noble work, about 70 feet in diameter, we owe to Alan de Wal- singham. It dates from the second quarter of the 14th century. In 1322 the original Norman central-tower fell, when Alan, then sacrist, who had in the previous year begun the Lady Chapel (see p. 23) determined to avail himself of the destruction wrought in the bays adjoining the tower, to enlarge the central area of the church. This he did by including a bay on each of the four sides, and connecting them by arches at each angle. He carried up his work in stone as high as the vaulting (by 1328), above which he constructed the roof and lantern of wood, the whole being completed in 1342. No description can convey an adequate idea of the beauty of his design, and we must content ourselves, —; W ELY CATHEDRAL. therefore, with briefly pointing out a few of the details. Four lofty arches communicate respectively with the nave, transepts and choir, and form four sides of the octagon ; between these are four smaller arches, which constitute the four shorter sides. The vaulting of the octagon springs from vaulting shafts on either side of the smaller arches, and each shaft carries a niche and canopy about half way up. The corbels on which these canopies rest are carved to represent incidents in the life of St. Etheldreda. Beginning at the north-west arch, right hand side, and turning to the right round the octagon, we have thus por- trayed : 1. Etheldreda's marriage to Egfrid. 2. Her taking the veil at Coldingham. 3. Her staff miraculously growing into a shelter for her. 4. Her preservation by a flood whilst pursued by Egfrid. 5. Her installation as abbess of Ely by Wilfrid. 6. Her death and burial. 7. A prisoner set free by the merits of Ethel- dreda. 8. Her translation. Above the smaller arches are three small canopies with busts of the Apostles, in the following order : north-west, SS. Thomas, Peter, Andrew; north-east, SS. Jude, James the Great, Simon; south-east, SS. Matthew, John, James; south-west, SS. Philip, Paul, Bartholomew. Above these canopies are four Decorated windows, filled with stained glass, by Wailes : (South-east) —Anna ; Etheldreda as Queen ; Tondbert and Egfrid, her husbands Etheldreda as Abbess ; Wilfrid ; Erminilda ; Sexburga. (North-east)—Withburga, Edmund, Werburga. Dunstan, Bishop Ethelwold, Brihtnoth, alderman of the East Saxons, Abbot Brihtnoth, Edgar. (North-west) —Edward II., Henry III., Henry I., William I. Simeon, began the cathedral; Harvey, 1st Bishop ; Bishop Northwold ; Alan de Walsingham. (South-west)—Queen Victoria, the late Prince Consort, Edward III., Queen Philippa, Bishop Turton, Dean Peacock, Bishop Hotham, and Prior Crawden. The lantern is also octagonal. The lower part of each side contains four angelic figures beneath rich tracery. Above these are eight windows with coloured glass that harmonizes badly with its setting. The groined roof of the lantern shows on its central boss a half-length of our Lord in glory, surrounded by Seraphin, with Cherubin over the windows. The transepts are the oldest portions of the present church, and in their lower parts belong to the end of the 11th century (1083- 1106). The south transept has its aisles enclosed, that on the west being used for vestries, that on the east as the cathedral library (a small collection of books, none of remarkable interest. The Liber Eliensis MS. about 1150, is here). The capitals of the pillars on the east side of this transept have been slightly coloured in imitation of old work. On the west side is a good carved door (brought from Landbeach). Nowhere is the coloured glass of this cathedral more unsatisfactory than in the transepts. None of it is of any striking merit, and the differences of style and tone give to the windows of this part a bizarre appearance. — ELY CATHEDEAL. 23 The north transept has its west aisle open. That on the east is divided into three compartments, of which the two southern ones serve as vestries, and the northern one as an ante- chamber to the Lady chapel. The east window in the southern- most compartment represents the Burial and the Ascension of our Lord, and is one of the most satisfactory in the cathedral. The north-west corner of this transept fell in 1699, but was rebuilt exactly on the old lines. The Lady chapel (used as a parish church) stands parallel to the choir, at the north-east corner of the north transept, and is entered therefrom. It is the work of Alan de Walsingham, and was erected between 1321—49. The style is Decorated, and when unmutilated it must have been very magnificent. The chapel consists of five bays, and is 100 ft. long by 46 ft. wide, and 60 ft. in height. Each of the side windows has four lights, the west one eight, and the east one seven. The two latter date from the end of the 14th century, and approach in character to Perpen- dicular. A few fragments only of old glass remain. Along all four sides of the chapel are richly canopied niches and tabernacle work. The roof was originally blue, with silver stars, but this decoration as well as that of the walls has almost entirely dis- appeared. In spite of a few unsightly mural tablets, and too great an amount of light from the plain glass of so many and such large windows, the Lady chapel is one of the most beautiful Deco- rated buildings in England. The choir. This is divided from the octagon by an oak screen, with brass gates, very light and graceful, the work of Sir Gilbert Scott. The choir is well seen from the octagon through and above the screen, outside which, at its north end, is the pulpit, with statues of SS. Peter and Paul. The original, Norman, choir ended in an apse just beyond the three bays at present occupied by the stalls. Bishop Northwold lengthened the choir (1235 52), making it, counting the retro-choir, to consist of ten bays. Of these the four western ones (Norman), were destroyed when the central tower fell in 1322, and Alan de Walsingham then in- cluded one within his octagon, and the three others were rebuilt as we now see them, probably from his designs, between 1345 62. The choir, therefore, now consists of seven bays, and the retro-choir of two, the total inside length being 159 ft., the breadth 35 feet, and the height 70 feet. On each side is an aisle extending the whole length. The three western bays are Decorated, and especially in the triforium and clerestory very rich. Note too the bosses of foliage attached to the hood-moulds of the main arches. The vaulting is that knowJ as lierne vaulting, from the cross tie- ribs which subdivide the fans into compartments. The stalls occupy these three bays, and are partly old work restored and partly new. The modern carvings in the panels are, with the exception of the Nativity by Philip, by Abeloos of Louvain. 24 ELY CATHEDBAL. North Side, South side. 1. The Annunciation. The Creation of man. 2. The Salutation. The Creation of woman. 3. The Nativity. Adam and Eve in Eden. 4. Ti:e Presentation in the temple. The Fall. 6. The wise men. The expulsion from Eden. 6. The murder of the innocents. Adam and Eve at work. 7. The flight into Egypt. Death of Abel. 8. Our Lord with the doctors. Building of the ark. 9. The Baptism. The Deluge. 10. The Temptation.! Noah's sacrifice. 11. The miracle at Cana. Promise to Abraham. 12. The Transfiguration. Isaac carrying the wood. 13. Mary anointing our Lord's feet. Sacrifice of Isaac. 14. The Betrayal. Isaac blessing Jacob. 15. Our Lord before Caiphas. Jacob's ladder. 16. The Mocking. Joseph sold. 17. Pilate washing his hands. The Burning Bush. 18. The Scourging. The Passover. 19. Ecce Homo. Moses striking the rock. 20. The Crucifixion. The brazen serpent. 21. The Burial. Eeturn of the spies. 22. The Resurrection. David anointed by Samuel. 23. Our Lord at Emmaus. Queen of Sheba. 24. The unbelief of Thomas. Jonah. 25. The Ascension. Elijah's translation. The organ is a striking and beautiful object on the north side, where it projects and depends from the third bay of the triforium. It was finally enlarged and improved by Hill in 1867. Two steps across the choir and a broad stone shaft on either side mark the division between the Decorated and Early English portions of the choir. The shafts show the position of the original apse. As stated above, the choir eastward from this point is Bishop Northwold's work, and its comparative simplicity contrasts strongly, but in no way inharmoniously, with the western bays. The main arcades have dog-tooth moulding, the capitals are enriched with foliage, and there are long pendant masses of foliage on the corbels, whence rise the vaulting shafts which are themselves crowned with capitals similarly ornamented. The triforium arches are subdivided by clustered shafts, and are open to the windows over the aisles, except in two bays. The clerestory windows are of three lights, and inside them and above the triforium runs a gallery. The vaulting is plainly groined. Note the two westernmost of the bosses; the eastern one represents a bishop with crosier, the western the coronation of the Virgin. The reredos is a magnificent work by Sir G. Scott, and was the gift of J. D. Gardner, Esq., of Chatteris, as a memorial to his first wife. It consists of five compartments, divided from each other by enriched alabaster shafts surmounted by angels bearing instruments of the Passion. The central compartment, which is the largest, contains sculpture representing the Last Supper. The two on the left of this represent the Washing of the disciples' feet and the Triumphal Entry ; those on the right the Agony and the : ELY CATHEBEAL. 25 Bearing of the Cross. In the gables above the four side compart- ments are, on the left hand, heads of the four major Prophets, and on the right of the four Doctors. In the centre is our Lord with Moses and Elias on either hand. The tabernacle work is very elaborate. The screen behind is also divided into five compart- ments with five gables, on the highest and central one of which is our Lord in glory. Into the gables are introduced Mary Magdalen, Mary mother of James, St. John Baptist, St. John the Evangelist. On spiral shafts are figures of Faith, Hope, Charity on the left, and of Justice, Prudence, Fortitude on the right hand. The altar cloth, by two Misses Blencowe, is a fine reproduction of ancient work, Monuments in the choir beginning at the west on the south side) 1. William, Bishop de Luda (Louth), 1290-98. A slab once containing a brass of the bishop, above which rises the highest of three arches with pinnacled gables. The north side has been restored. 2. John Barnet, Bishop of Ely, d. 1373. Oi Purbeck marble. The brass has disappeared. 3. John Tiptoft, Earl of "Worcester and his two wives. The earl himself, who was a Yorkist, was beheaded by Warwick, after his eleven days' conquest of the realm, in 1470, and only his wives are buried here. The tomb is good late Perpendicular. 4. John Hotham, Bishop of Ely, 1316-37. He left the money to build the three western bays of the present choir. His effigy, if his tomb ever had one, has disappeared. On the north side going westward. 5. Hugh de Northwold, Bishop of Ely, 1229-54. He built the Early English part of the choir. On a carved slab of Purbeck marble (modern) is the robed effigy with crosier, and in niches on one side King Edmund and Northwold as a monk ; on the other St. Etheldreda as queen and as abbess. Northwold was abbot of St. Edmund's at Bury. 6. The shrine that formerly surmounted Bishop Hotham's tomb. It is believed to have originally formed part of St. Etheldreda's shrine, and to have been altered by Alan de Walsingham. 7. William of Kilkenny, Bishop of Ely, 1254-56. The bishop's heart only is buried here, as he died whilst on a mission in Spain. The effigy is fully robed and a fine example of the period. 8. Bichard Bedman, Bishop successively of St. Asaph, Exeter and Ely, d. 1505. The figure of the bishop rests beneath a rich Perpendicular canopy. It remains to visit the retro-choir and the choir aisles. The three western bays of each aisle are Decorated, and the eastern bays Early English. Beginning at the west end of the north choir aisle we notice the beautiful gates. The staircase in the third bay leads to the organ, and opposite it there is a fine, though sadly mutilated, Decorated doorway that formerly gave access to ; 26 ELY CATHEDEAL the Lady chapel, which still has a corresponding entrance (now closed) in the middle of its south side. Of the monuments in this aisle notice : the brass to Bassevi, the architect of the Fitz William Museum at Cambridge ; he was killed in 1845 by falling from the western tower ; that to Bishop Patrick (d. 1707) the commentator, and that of Bishop Laney (d. 1675) who had been chaplain to Charles I. The five windows are filled with stained glass, of which the subjects are (beginning with that next the doorway) : 1. St. John the Baptist ; 2. and 3. The miracles of our Lord ; 4. Parables 5. The Virgins and the feeding of the hungry, &c. The eastern bay is occupied by Bishop Alcock's Chapel. He was bishop of Ely 148(5-1500, and built this chapel in 1488 ; see the inscribed, stone below the east window. He also founded Jesus College in Cambridge. This chapel is very elaborate Perpendicular work, and before it was deprived of the figures that once filled its many niches must have presented an extremely rich appearance. It has been partially restored by Jesus College. The bishop's tomb is on the north side. Behind the tomb is his chantry. His rebus appears on the tomb and in the east window. The retro-choir of two bays is lit by a double tier of windows, the lower of three, the upper of five lancets, which together form the main east window of the church. The glass is by Wailes, and by many persons is held to be the best in the cathedral. The lower tier of lancets represents scenes in the life of our Lord, with illustrations from the Old Testament. Jesse appears at the bottom of the right-hand light. The upper tier of lancets has in the centre the Lord in majesty, beneath whom are depicted four events that occurred after the crucifixion. Figures of the apostles fill the lights on either side. Of monuments in the retro-choir notice that of Bishop Allen (d. 1845), a beautiful mosaic work; that of Dr. Mill (d. 1853) with a recumbent effigy in copper; that of Cardinal de Luxembourg, who held the see of Ely, 1438-43. The south choir aisle has its eastern bay occupied by Bishop West's Chapel. The bishop died in 1533, and this chapel is a good example of Perpendicular style as it became modified by Italian influence. Notice the delicate tracery beneath the cano- pies. The ceiling divided into panels bears the bishop's arms and those of the see, and on some of the pendants are the arms of Henry VIII. The bishop was buried in this chapel and a portion of his monument is on the south side. Just above it, in seven small arches, are enclosed the remains of Wolston, Archbishop of York; Osmund, a. Swedish Bishop; Ednoth, Bishop of Dorchester; three Bishops of Elmham; and Brihtnoth, "Duke of Northumberland." These were removed from the north wall of the choir to their present position in 1770, and are supposed to have been brought to the cathedral from the conventual church. Bishop Keene (d. 1781), and Bishop Sparke (d. 1836) and his wife are also buried in this chapel. The south choir aisle is architecturally a counterpart of the north aisle, five of its windows have stained glass (beginning from ELY CATHEDKAL. 27 the east): 1. Illustrations of the parables; 2. The history of Lazarus ; 8. Scenes in the life of St. John ; 4. Scenes in the life of St. Peter ; 5. Scenes in the life of our Lord. Near the easternmost window is a portion of a Norman grave slab, on which is represented an angel bearing a soul, probably that of a bishop. The tombs in this aisle that call for notice are those of Bishop Gunning (d. 1684), who wrote the "Prayer for all condi- tions of men; " of Bishop Heton (d. 1609), the cope of the effigy adorned with saints ; the brass of Bishop Goodrich (d. 1554), the vestments make this of much interest; the brass of Humphrey Tyndall (d. 1614), Dean of Ely and master of Queen's College, Cambridge. Notice at the back of the stalls the tablet to William Lynne, the first husband of Oliver Cromwell's mother. At the west end of this aisle are gates similar to those in the north aisle. Those wishing to ascend to the upper parts of the cathedral can only do so in company with a verger. The carpentry of the lantern is interesting, and a fine view of the church is obtained from the gallery that crosses the east end of the retro-choir. The nature of the surrounding country is such that the view from the top of the west tower, though a very wide one, is scarcely worth the trouble of the ascent. There are on the south side of the cathedral a few remains of the conventual buildings. The south entrance to the cathedral is from the N. E. (and only remaining portion) of the cloisters. The deanery is believed to be the ancient guest-hall. It has, however, been so much altered that there is little, if any, of the original 13th century work. Prior Crawden's Chapel, built about 1325, probably from designs of Alan de Walsingham, is a small but very interesting Decorated building of four bays. It has been restored and is now used as the chapel of the King's School. The Great Gate of the monastery, built quite at the end of the 14th century, is now part of the school buildings ; it is flanked on either hand by square towers, and has a fine central archway on the street face. The Bishop's Palace, which faces the green at the west end of the cathedral, consists of a central portion recessed between wings. It is of brick, and dates from the reign of Henry VII. St. Mary's church, which is a little west of the palace, has a good Decorated tower and spire, also a good north porch and fine Early English door. The pillars of the nave are round with Norman capitals, from which spring pointed arches with Early English mouldings. The chancel is Early English, and so is a small chapel, but the clerestory windows and those of the aisles are Perpendicular, to a later phase of which style the main east window belongs. (Route continued.) Immediately north of Ely station the cathedral appears to great advantage on the left. The line as far as Littleport station follows the left bank of the Ouse. Littleport church-tower is on the left, and soon after we are in the midst of 28 LYNN 4 Hilgay Fen, after which the railway crosses the Ouse, and we pass, on the right, the small town of Downham Market. Then we have Watlington junction and beyond it, on the left of the line, get a glimpse of the three churches of Wiggenhall, St. Mary Magdalene, W. St. Peter's and W. St. Mary the Virgin. The first and last named of these three are very fine churches. The hamlet of Islington, rendered famous by "the Bailiff's daughter," is now about three miles on the left of the line but out of sight. Marshland, as the extreme west corner of Norfolk is called, is very rich in fine churches. Lynn is a good starting point, as the railway to Spalding places the best of them within easy walking distance. In addition to Wiggenhall St. Mary Magdalene, which is best reached from Watlington station on the Ely line, Wiggen- hall St. Mary the Virgin, Terrington St. Clement (very fine), Walpole St. Peter (fine), are all within one to three milos of the line to Spalding. For route onward to Hunstanton see p. 31. fpn* Hotels. Glohe, DuWs Head, both in the Tuesday market place. Crown in Church Street, East Anglian, opposite station, Tempe- rance in Blackfriars Eoad. Population: 18,475. Lynn is a town of considerable antiquity, and till the Eeforma- tion was called Lynn Episcopi. The rights of the Bishop of Norwich in regard to it were then transferred to the crown, and it became Lynn Begis or King's Lynn, by which name it has since been known. It is still a port of some importance, but is now some miles from the open sea, with which it is connected by a waterway known as Lynn Cut. A large dock, opened in 1869, has in some measure revived the trade of the place, but it appears unlikely that it can ever regain its old position as a port for corn and wine, for both of which its merchants were famous as early as the days of the Piantagenets. Speaking generally the town is clean and dull, but it has many buildings of interest to the antiquarian and ecclesiologist. Walk through the town.—Leaving the station on the down side turn left towards the modern church of St. John. Just before reaching this a gate on the left gives entrance to the "Walks, a considerable area well timbered and laid out as a public promenade. The first object of interest is Red Mount Chapel, an octagonal building of brick with stone facings and a buttress at each angle. This building is the outer shell of a stone one three stories high. The space between the two is occupied by two staircases which give access to a small chapel 17 ft. 6 in, by 14 ft., LYNN. 29 a beautiful Perpendicular work built in 1482. The walls and roof are much enriched though the details have been sadly injured. This chapel is supposed to have been a wayside shrine for pilgrims going to Walsingham, and the double staircase was necessary to enable a stream of devotees to pass through the chapel, one being used for entrance the other for exit. In 1828 decay, which threatened the building, was arrested and a partial restoration made, and since then repairs have from time to time been done though with scant taste. Leaving the chapel and continuing our route we come to a gateway (modern antique) at the end of the principal avenue of the walks. [By following the main avenue we can reach the principal part of the town direct.] In order to visit the south gate of the town, which is the only one remaining, our course is straight onward along the line of the town wall. In a few yards we come to a fine group of elms known as the seven sisters. Here the building on the right hand is the West Norfolk Hospital, and that on the left the Union Workhouse. Beyond the hospital appear the two towers of St. Margaret's church, after which on the left the road is bordered by beech trees, and a bit of uninteresting street brings us to the south gate. This was built about 1440 to replace an older one. It is plain and has a small archway on either side of the large central one. We now turn right along the London Koad, and soon come to the Grey Friars Tower. This is a lantern rising from the apex of a lofty arch, and is all that is left of a priory founded early in the 13th century. It can be ascended by a staircase on the north side. The grounds about it belong to the Grammar School which is across the street. At this school, which was then held in Thorisby's Chapel adjoining St. Margaret's church, Eugene Aram was an usher when he was arrested for a murder at Knaresborough committed, fourteen years before, in 1745. By St. James' Street we reach the Saturday Market Place and St. Margaret's Church, originally built by Herbert de Losinga, Bishop of Norwich (d. 1119). It is cruciform, 240 ft. in length, and has a fine west front with two towers, that on the south-west Early English, except the top stage, which is Decorated. The north-west tower is Norman below but Perpendicular above. The former of these towers had a spire which fell in 1741 and de- stroyed the nave and aisles. This accounts for the debased cha- racter of the body of the church. The chancel is early Decorated. Inside the south-west tower are two magnificent brasses. They were removed to their present position from the east end of the chanoel, and are now, unhappily, not well seen. One is to Adam de Walsoken (d. 1349) and his wife, whose portraits are shown. Apostles and prophets occupy niches on either side, and at the foot is a fruit-harvest scene. The other brass is to Bobert Braunche (d. 1364) and his two wives. Above each figure is a rich canopy and a small " soul." At the feet of each wife is a little dog, and on either side are male and female weepers. At 30 LYNN. the husband's feet is an eagle attacking a man. The lower part of the brass portrays a banquet. Edward III was feasted at Lynn by Braunche, who was then mayor. The king and his nobles, and a body of musicians are represented, together with women bearing a peacock prepared for table, which a knight is standing across the table to receive. The bird has given its name to this memorial, u which is commonly spoken of as the peacock brass." On the south of the Church are the remains of Tborisby's Chapel, now a Fire-Engine House, in which, when used as a school, Eugene Aram was master. North-west of St. Margaret's is the Guild Hall, with its front diapered in flint and stone. Over the entrance are the arms of Queen Elizabeth, and the date 1624. In the Assembly Eoom, which is at the back of the Hall, are portraits of William III. and Queen Mary, Sir Robert Walpole, Lord George Bentinck, &c. A cup, called King John's Cup, a sword given to the town by Henry VIII, and four silver maces, together with a fine caudle cup and other items of the Corpora- tion plate are here preserved. King John's cup is very like that depicted on the peacock brass. Leaving the Saturday Market Place by Queen's Street we pass Tborisby's college for Priests, now turned into dwelling houses. This foundation, dating from the beginning of the 16th century (Thorisby was mayor 1502), still preserves its fine door, the panels of which are beautiful work. Notice the inscription (Orate pro anima) magistri Thomas Thorisby. Next in King's Street we pass on the left the Custom Bouse, a very quaint Dutch-looking building, with a statue of James II in a niche over the doorway, and then in a few yards reach the Tuesday Market Place, in which are the principal hotels. The BuWs Head was in days gone by a fine house. It is now partly occupied by a bank. Crossing the Market Place to the north-east corner by Tuesday Hill, we reach St. Nicholas Cbapel. This is a chapel-of-ease to St. Margaret's, and was built about the end of the 14th century, replacing an Early English church, of which the tower at the west end of the south aisle is the only remaining portion. That tower has now a spire added by Sir G. Scott. The church with this exception is Perpendicular. The south porch is very rich, and the elaborate tracery of the aisle and clerestory windows, of which a good ex- terior view can be had on the north side, is striking. The nave arcade is very graceful. The open timber roof is unbroken by a chancel arch, and owing to the length of the church, 200 ft., has a fine effect. The portion over the Sacrarium has been painted. The west window is of eleven lights, the east window of nine. The latter has been filled with stained glass. The font raised on three steps is worth examination, as are the enriched sedilia in the chancel. There are no monuments of interest. The white marble tomb in the north aisle is to Sir Benj. Keene, a former mayor, and afterwards ambassador to Spain. On leaving the church we are close to the Alexandra Dock, which was declared open for use in July, 1869, by the Prince and Princess of Wales. CASTLE RISING. 31 (Route continued.) Almost immediately on leaving Lynn station we pass the village of Gaywood, and on the left see a range of almshouses, founded, it is said, as early as 1174. Then the village of South Wootton is seen on the right, and at 3£ miles is North Wootton station. This is the nearest station for Castle Rising- (Inn : The Black Horse), which is 2 miles by road to the east. Those who do not care to walk must drive from Lynn (4 m.), as no conveyances are to be had at North Wootton station. The castle is on the south of Castle Eising village, on a hill in the midst of enormous earth works. The date of its erection and its builder are un- certain, but there are some grounds for attributing it to William d'Albini, who married Adeliza, widow of Henry I., and who afterwards became Earl of Sussex. It was probably erected about 1170. It was the property of the crown from the beginning of the 14th century to the time of Henry VIII. ; that monarch parted with it to the Duke of Norfolk, and it still belongs to the Howard family. Queen Isabella, widow of Edward II., lived here from 1331, but how far under restraint is uncertain. She died not here, but at Hertford in 1358. The main earthwork consists of a nearly circular bank and ditch measuring about 670 feet north and south, and 480 feet east and west. On the east of this (on the left of the road as we enter the works) is a considerable rectangular work of the same nature and a smaller one defends the west side of the large enclosure. Measuring from east to west the length over all is about 960 feet. The buildings are all within the main earth work, the ditch of which is crossed by a bridge with a Perpendicular arch, but older piers. Some fine trees and a good deal of underwood now clothe the ditch. Passing through the Norman gatehouse we have before us all the remaining build- ings of the castle : the great tower, the chapel, some fragments of the constable's lodgings, and a small portion of the brick wall that topped the enclosing rampart. The Great Tower resembles that of Norwich,, but is far more interesting, because while that is a mere splendid shell that has been externally made * as good as new,' this has only been so far repaired, and that very slightly, as to preserve it from going too rapidly to decay. It consisted of a ground floor and first floor, but the former of these was only accessible by descending from the latter. On the east side is the principal staircase, at the foot of which a way in has been made to the ground floor, which was unequally divided into a large " kitchen " on the north side, and a long narrow chamber or series of chambers on the south. Above the " kitchen " was the Great Hall, the floor of which was sup- ported by four arches. Ascending the Great Staircase, that is crossed half-way up by an arch, which carried a small stair com- municating with a sally-port in the outside wall high up, we pass through a fine arch into the first floor of the entrance tower. This formed the vestibule to the Great Hall which was entered by the Norman arch now occupied by the fire-place. This vesti- 32 CASTLE KISING. bule is lighted on three sides by Norman windows, and has 14th century vaulting. Above this, reached by a stair on the N.E. angle of the Great Tower, is another floor also lit by Norman windows, and therefore part of the original building. From the sitting-room a door leads to a long gallery in the N. wall. This gallery ran the whole length of the Great Hall, which was lit from it and by a window high up at the east end. Notice the easternmost window of this gallery. It is divided into two lights by ornamented pilasters. The gallery leads to a small circular chamber in the N.W. angle. South of this, that is over the west end of the " kitchen," are two " pantries." On the south of the Great Hall was a gallery lit by two large windows, having between them a (late) fireplace. The small chamber, entered by an early English door at the south east, has been called the chapel on account of its vaulted eastern recess, but it is supposed to have been a private apartment of the owner. The person in charge will show the few relics that have been preserved, including some armorial tiles. There is also a fine carved chest, possibly 250 years old, but of whose history nothing is known for certain. The visitor should ascend to the top of the keep for a view of the works and the neighbourhood. The main mound and ditch are older than the Roman occupation to which period the smaller works east and west are attributed. Across the Green on the north side of the Great Tower are the remains of an early Norman Chapel with an Eastern apse. On the south are some fragments of the Constable's lodgings, of early Tudor date. Not less interesting than the Castle is the Church. This was built in the first half of the 12th century, and has been carefully restored and the roof raised by Salvin. The West front is a splendid specimen of late Norman, with fine west door, west window, and beautiful arcading. The Church consists of nave, central tower, short transepts and chancel. Perhaps the most striking feature of the interior is the Tower. Of this the western arch is stilted, and the eastern pointed. It is open to the church lanternwise, and has a gallery in the thickness of its walls. The south transept arch is Early English, and in that transept was a small eastern chapel. The chancel of the church is Norman, with Early English windows inserted in the older work. Adjoining the churchyard is the Sede Bouse, an almshouse for women founded in the reign of James I., whose inmates still wear high peaked hats and red cloaks, with the Howard badge which commemorates the founder, the Earl of Northampton. Castle Rising Hall is the seat of the Hon. Mrs. Howard, at whose expense the restoration of the church was carried out. The village and its surroundings are picturesque, and on the Green is an ancient restored cross. Route continued.—The line now traverses an uninteresting marsh, and about a mile off on the right is Babingley church, the Decorated representative of the oldest church in Norfolk. Just before reaching Wolferton station the church of that village is SANDEINGHAM—DEESINGHAM. 33 seen close to the line on the right. Sandringham, the seat of the Prince of Wales, is about 2 J miles to the east. It was purchased by the Prince in 1861 for £220,000, and the estate consists of about 7,000 acres. The road from the station crosses Sandringham Warren, from the high ground of which a wide and pleasant view is obtained. The sandy soil favours the growth of heather and fir plantations, and an attempt has been made to introduce black game and grouse. The public are admitted to the park and grounds only when the family is absent. The principal item of interest is the Norwich Gates. These beautiful specimens of iron-work are at the main entrance. They were exhibited in the 1862 Exhibition, and were afterwards presented to the Prince by the county. They were made by Barnard of Norwich. Sandringham, with its pretty cottages, is quite a model village, and the church, restored, though of no architectural interest, is worth a visit. In the chancel all the windows are filled with painted glass : one of them, Christ blessing Utile children, commemorates the infant prince Alexander, who died, one day old, April 11, 1871, and whose grave, marked by a marble cross, is near the east end of the church. The next station is Dersingliam (Feathers Hotel, a mile from the station). The village, seen on the right of the line, is rather prettily placed, and about 1J miles distant by road. The fine Church (restored in 1877) is well worth a visit, though the sense of newness, consequent on the large amount of work necessitated by long neglect, detracts somewhat from its interest. The western tower, 15th century, is plain with a five-light west window, and externally the church calls for no particular notice, except to point out, on the east gable of the nave, the cross, which formerly contained a sanctus bell. The nave arcades and the chancel are Decorated ; the clerestory and windows of the aisles late Perpendicular. In the chancel notice the good sedilia and piscina. There is a so-called leper window on the south side, and this as well as a window on the north side are later insertions. Only the lower part of the rood screen, which must have been a beautiful work, remains. The 15th century font-cover and the plain 14th century font are excellent. Eejoining the rail, in a little over a mile the village of Xngrolds- thorpe and the house of Mount Amelia are seen on the right. Ingoldsthorpe church (restored) has little of interest. The line now turns westward to Snettisham station (Small inn), which is close to the hamlet of Southgate, but about 1J miles from Snettisham village, where is an interesting church whose lofty spire is seen from the railway. This church, originally cruci- form, has lost its chancel and north transept. Its most note- worthy points are the west front, that of Peterborough cathedral in miniature, with beautiful Decorated window ; and the cleres- tory windows alternately round and round-headed. The work of restoration was carried out by Butterfield and the late Mr. Le Strange, of Hunstanton. Snettisham Hall is D Guide, VI. 84 LONDOTT (via ELY) TO NORWICH. close to the church, and Ken Hill (E. L. Green, Esq.) more to the westward. At Heacham junction, where the line bifurcates to Hunstanton and Wells, Heacham Hall (E. Rolfe, Esq.) and the village church are about a mile on the right. The square tower of the last named is in sight from the station, but there is nothing about the church to call for description. In two miles onward the train reaches Hunstanton (St. Edmunds). From Hunstanton, by road, to Castle Rising is 12 miles, passing through Snettishani 4£ miles, but leaving Ingoldsthorpe, Dersingh am, and Sand- ringham a little on the left. If these places are included, another two miles must be added. For those who are equal to a walk of about ten miles, a good excursion is to take the train to North Wootton station, and then to proceed on foot to Castle Rising. After seeing the castle and church, take the main road going north from the latter, and in a long £ mile after crossing the Babingley stream turn to the right and proceed through West Newton and by Sandringham to Dersingham, where the church should be seen. Then the route can be continued by rejoining the main road and following it for \ mile, when a road, right, past Mount Amelia to Ingoldsthorpe and so to Snettisham should be taken. Snettisham church is l\ miles from the station. The walk may be reduced to 8£ miles by taking the train at Dersingham station. London (via Ely) to Norwich, 126J m. This route has been already described as far as Ely (p. 2-18). On leaving Ely station a fine view of the cathedral on the left is obtained, and then the line for the next dozen miles crosses the fen district between the Ouse and Little Ouse. Just before reach- ing Brandon, the railway crosses the latter river, and we enter Norfolk. A couple of miles beyond Brandon, Santon Downham Church is close on the right, across the stream, and then on either hand we have wild heath and plantations, well known to the sportsman. At Thetford, close to the station, are the remains of a priory, founded in 1104 by Roger Bigod. These are of little interest to any but professed antiquarians. About 3 miles onward, at Roudham, a branch line goes off on the left to Swaffham and Lynn, and then in about lj miles the Peddars Way, now a green road, is crossed, and in a few minutes Roudham Church, a ruin, is close by on the right. After this nothing calls for notice until Attleborougrb, 110J m. (Inn : Royal) is reached. The church and village are on the left, and the former is worth a visit from the leisurely tourist, although it has suffered the loss of its chancel. The north porch and the rood screen, now at the west end of the nave, are especially noteworthy. At Wymondham (Inns : King's Head, White Hart) 116 m., a good view is obtained of the grand Priory Churcb. This, like Attleborough, has lost its choir. At the west end is a magnificent 15th century tower. The nave recalls those of Norwich and Ely. The clerestory and open roof are Perpendicular. At the east end is a second tower, which is octagonal in its upper part. The choir was the monastic church and was separated completely from the nave, which origin- ally, as it is at present, was the parish church. The sedilia canopies (terra cotta) and the font, which is Perpendicular, are NORWICH. 35 good. Robt. Ket, the ringleader of Ket's rebellion, 1549, was a tanner and man of substance at Wymondham. Through a fairly wooded but flat district, past Heatherset and Cringleford churches, on the left, we reach the banks of the Yare, and pass under the railway that runs to the Victoria station at Norwich. Lakeriham church is seen on the left, and then stopping at Trowse to collect tickets we arrive at Norwich (Thorpe) station, enlarged and re- built in 1885. IJtowfcft* Hotels: Maid's Head, in Magdalen Street; "Royal, in Market Place; Norfolk, in St. Giles' Street; Refreshment Rooms: Cooper's, Langford's, both in London Street; Marston's in Gentle- man's Walk. Population : 87,8-13. " There are three railway stations at Norwich. Of these " Thorpe on the south east of the city, and " Victoria " on the south west belong to the Great Eastern Railway, and both are equally convenient to those arriving from the south or west who intend staying a day or two in the city. Travellers bound for Cromer, and intending only to break their journey at Norwich for a few hours, should travel by a train running to " Thorpe," as that is " the station from which the trains for Cromer start. " The City station on the north of the city is the E. and M. R. terminus. Norwich, as a whole, cannot be described as a fine city. Its streets, for the most part, are narrow and tortuous, and though it possesses a dozen or more open places, or "plains," these do not remove the dingy air imparted to it by the meanness of its thoroughfares. Seen, however, from the castle mound it is picturesque, owing to many trees and churches, and it is a town that contains many objects of interest, so that the tourist will find abundance of sights to pleasantly occupy him for a day or two. If he be a lover of churches, there are, besides the cathedral, nearly forty with more or less claims upon his attention, and not reckoning the many other memorials of its long history that the city possesses, which would require a considerable time to examine, there are the noteworthy buildings, the castle, the church of St. Peter Mancroft, and St. Andrew's Hall. History of the city.—It is a moot point whether Norwich or Caister, 3 miles south, is the Venta Icenorum of the Romans. No traces of Roman occupation have been discovered at Norwich, the mound on which the castle stands being the remnant of a stronghold of still earlier date. " The name of Norwich is probably Norse " says Mr. Isaao Taylor, and means "the north 86 NORWICH. Tillage," possibly in contradistinction to Ipswich, the village on the Gipping. In 1004, Swegen, king of Denmark, took revenge for the massacre of his countrymen by iEthelred, two years previously. He harried and burnt Norwich, and so complete was the devastation then wrought, that the city of to-day must be said to begin its history about the time of the Conquest, soon after which event Roger Bigod built the Norman castle. The earliest East Anglian diocese embraced Norfolk and Suffolk, and the see was fixed at Dunwich, by Felix, in 630. In 671 the diocese was divided, and Elmham became the place of the Norfolk see. It was transferred to Thetford in 1075, and finally to Norwich in 1094. In 1096 Bishop Herbert de Losinga began the cathedral. In 1216 the Dauphin, afterwards Lewis VIII. of France (to whom the barons had offered the English crown), pillaged and burnt the city, and in 1272 it was the scene of a serious fray between the monks and the citizens. In the 14th century it was the head-quarters of woollen manufacture, and in 1348 its dense population offered itself an easy prey to the plague, of which it is said more than 50,000 persons died. Wat Tyler's rebellion, in 1381, found many sympathisers in Norfolk, and they, led by John Littester (i.e. John the dyer) of Norwich, attacked the city. The rebels were dispersed by the martial bishop Spencer and Littester was hanged at North Walsham. In 1549 (the year of the Rising of the West) the rising of the East Anglian peasantry, known as Ket's Rebellion, took place, when the city was twice taken by the rebels and then again by Warwick. Its buildings seem to have suffered little by these vicissitudes. Mousehold Heath, on the north-west of the city, was for weeks the camp of the insurgents. This is the last conspicuous event in the history of the city. Since then it has been increasing in population and wealth, if not in fame. At the present day its name is perhaps most widely known in connection with Barnard's stoves and Colman's mustard. Tlie Cathedral (about % mile from Thorpe Station, and § mile from Victoria and City Station; cab fare Is. in each case). The entrance to the Cathedral Close on the west is from the open space called Tombland. Before entering we [should notice the two gates. St. Etbelbert's Gate, at the south-east corner of Tombland, was built about 1275. Its lower part is Decorated, the upper part is a tolerable specimen of (modern) flint work with wheel tracery. The Erplngham Gate is opposite the west front of the built Sir Erpingham (see Cathedral. It was by Thomas Erpinghamt p. 71) about 1420. It is an elaborate work enriched with many canopied niches with small statues. A kneeling figure is supposed to be Sir Thomas. Entering by this gate we have, on the left, the Grammar School, which occupies the Chapel of St. John, Decorated, built by Bishop Salmon about 1318. The crypt below NORWICH CATHEDRAL. 37 was the charnel house. Notice the porch, Bishop Lehart's work, about 1460, and the ornamented buttresses. The enclosed lawn opposite is called Upper Close. The statue upon it is a poor one of Nelson. The west front of the Cathedral is not imposing. In the main Norman, it has been much altered. The great Perpendicular west window dwarfs the elevation in which it is set. The pinnacles on the Norman towers are modern. History of the Cathedral. It was begun by Bishop Herbert de Losinga (i.e. of Lorraine) in 1096. He built the choir and its aisles, and its great transept, and his work also included a circular Lady chapel at the east end of the presbytery, the Jesus and St. Luke chapels on either side of the apse, as well as those of St. Anne and St. Edmund on the east of the transept. The nave was added by his successor Bishop Everard (1121-45). Great damage was done by a fire, 1172, when the Norman Lady chapel was destroyed. About the middle of the next century a larger (Early English) Lady chapel was built by Bishop Suffield in the same position as its predecessor. The year 1272, during the serious quarrel between the monks and the citizens, saw the Cathedral again much injured by fire. Its restoration was completed in 1278. The Beauchamp chapel on the south side of the presbytc y was founded in the time of Edward II, and in the next reign, Bishop Percy (1355-69) built the present spire in place of one that in 1362 had been blown down. The earlier spire in its fall had damaged the presbytery, and Percy in repairing it added the existing late Decorated clerestory. Bishop Alnwick (1426-36) raised the walls of the nave aisles and inserted the Perpendicular windows that light the triforium. Bishop Lehart (1446-72) replaced the wooden Norman roof of the nave with vaulting. Bishop Goldwell, his successor, vaulted the presbytery, and added the exterior flying buttresses. The transept vaulting and a chantry on the south- side of the nave are the work of Bishop Nix (1501-36). Since then no structural addition or alteration has been effected. The cloisters on the south side of the church, which replace the Norman cloisters destroyed in the fracas of 1272, were begun by Bishop Walpole in 1297, and were probably finished under his successor, Bishop Salmon (d. 1325). The east walk is the earliest, and next to it the south walk. The west and north walks were altered in the Perpendicular period. Before proceeding to our examination of the interior of the Cathedral, it may be well to point out that the terms choir and presbytery are not synonymous. The former is that given to the place where the service is sung ; the latter to the arm of the church extending eastward from the central tower. In Norwich the choir retains its original position, and with the ante-choir occupies the three eastern bays of the nave and the tower area. [At Ely, for instance, a similar arrangement obtained down to 1770, and it was only in 1852 that the choir there was removed to the western bays of the presbytery.] 88 NORWICH CATHEDRAL. The interior of the cathedral. (The course followed is from the west door up the south aisle of the nave to the south transept. TJien by the ' Procession Path ' round the presbytery and back to the north transept and north aisle of the nave. Then up the nave and into the choir and presbytery.) We enter by the west door and turn, right, into the south aisle, which, including the plain vaulting, is Norman. The windows are Perpendicular insertions. From the fifth bay the monks' door gives entrance to the cloisters (p. 40). Between the sixth and seventh pillars of the nave arcade is the altar of tomb of Chancellor Spencer, and in the next arch that of Bishop Nix (d. 1536). He converted this bay and that to the west of it into a chantry, of which the vaulting, late Per- pendicular, remains, as well as the iron of the sacring bell. The door on the right of the easternmost bay of this aisle is the Prior's door leading to the cloisters. We now enter the south arm of the transept. This, as already stated, was part of Bishop Herbert's work, but the present vaulting was added by Bishop Nix. The monument of Bishop Sathurst (d. 1837), Chantry's last work, which represents the bishop seated, is admirable. St. Edmund's Chapel on the east side no longer exists. In the vestry, on that side, is an ancient painting- on wood, which is supposed to have been an altar piece. It has five compartments representing the scourging, the bearing of the cross, the crucifixion, the resurrection, and the ascension, and probably belongs to the 14th century. By a door set in a Norman arch, which has been filled with Perpendicular tracery, we enter the south aisle of the presbytery. Notice the lock of the door, bearing the initials of Robert Catton, Prior of Norwich (d. 1529), who inserted the tracery. The old name of the walk round the presbytery was "the procession path." We next come, on the right, to the Beauchamp chapel, built by William Beauchon in the time of Edward II. It is now the consistory court. The roof is a century later, and has bosses representing the life, death, and assumption of the Virgin. Passing through a partition we reach St. Luke's chapel, now the parish church of the close. Notice the old font, once very beautiful, and the colouring on the chancel arch. Tne window is a memorial to Professor Sedgwick. Pro- ceeding onward, passing some cartoons that reproduce wall paintings, discovered in the course of restoration, through another partition, we arrive at the present east end of the church, where two Early English arches mark the entrance to Bishop Suffield's Xiady chapel (destroyed). The Jesus chapel in the north aisle corresponds to that of St. Luke on the south side. It has been elaborately restored and highly coloured. The altar slab retains its " seal," but the cavity holds no relics. This chapel, was much altered during the 15th century, and has now three Perpendicular windows. It contains the only old brass in the cathedral, an insignificant one, to Kalph Pulvertoft (d. 1506), master of the charnel-house. Proceeding westward we come to NOKWICH CATHEDRAL. 39 two bays, with a low Decorated vault, over which is a gallery believed to have been used to expose the relics belonging to the church which were kept in an adjoining chamber (now destroyed) on the north side of the church. The paintings on the vault of this gallery are very interesting. Further on we pass a stone coffin lid, and above it the place once occupied by Sir Thomas Erpingham's monument. The north arm of the tran- sept, which we next enter, has an interesting arcade over the north door Its eastern chapel, dedicated to St. Anne, is dese- crated, and can only be entered from without. In the north aisle of the nave, which, like the south aisle, is Norman with Perpendicular windows, there are no memorials of special interest. About half way down it, is a doorway that communicates with the Greenyard, where sermons were delivered in the open air. We now enter the nave. This consists of fourteen bays, and is 250 ft. long, though, owing to the extension of the choir westward, it is only open for a length of 204 ft., and so, although really one of the longest naves in England, does not show its full proportions. Its plain massiveness is impressive, though the dingy paint or wash with which its pillars are coated sadly de- tracts from its beauty. It is Norman throughout, except the vaulting, which is a beautiful 15th century addition. On the corbels of the longer vaulting shafts observe the rebus (a hart in water) of Bishop Walter Lehart. The triforium arches are nearly of the same size as those below. Above them is a cleres- tory of triple lights. The hole in the vaulting is supposed to have been used to let down a large thurible for incensing the church. In the centre of the floor a slab marks the grave of Bishop Stanley (d. 1849), to whose memory the great west window was filled with its stained glass (very poor). Notice the 9th pillar, counting from the west, on each side. It is not known why these differ from the rest. The ancient rood loft crossed the nave between the next pair. The lower part of the screen, as far as the shields, dates from Bishop Lehart's time ; the upper part, which is heavy, was added fifty years ago. On the north side a piscina marks the site of the small Chapel of St. William, a boy said to have been crucified by the Jews of Norwich in 1137. In the antechoir under the organ was once a chapel, of which nothing now remains. The choir. This, as already stated, occupies its original position at the east end of the nave, and with the presbytery extends past the tower to the east end of the church. It terminates in an apse, the view of Which from the west is striking. The stalls (restored) are beautiful 15th century work, and sixty-two in number. Some of the misereres are curiously carved ; one, the 4th from the east on the north side, represents a monkey with a wheelbarrow; and another on the opposite side, a fox making off with a goose. The Bishop's throne under the tower is modern. The lectern, 15th century brass work, is fine. The figures on the base are modern. In the vaulting of the presbytery, which was added by — 40 NORWICH CATHEDRAL. Bishop Goldwell at the end of the 15th century, note that pre- late's rebus, the gilded parapet of a well. The Decorated clerestory was built by Bishop Goldwell, and is beautiful ; and how fine the whole presbytery must once have been may be judged by the restoration of the arch at its west end. The apse shows the regular arrangement of a basilican church. In the centre, some distance above the floor, are fragments of the Bishop's chair or throne, and on either side below, the seats of the presbyters. The four arches on either side of the presbytery were, like the triforium above, originally Norman, but were altered to their present form, late Perpendicular, early in the 16th century, probably as a memorial of Queen Anne Boleyn's grandfather, Sir William Boleyn (d. 1505), whose tomb is under the eastern arch, on the south side. Of other monuments on this side of the presbytery are those 'of Bishop Overall (d. 1619), Bishop Goldwell (d. 1479), interesting as showing a complete set of vestments and the earliest instance of the use of the proces- sional cope as an outside robe. On the north side of the presbytery there are no monuments needing mention. The following are the principal dimensions of the Cathedral : Length (outside) 407 ft. Height of nave vaulting... 69 ft. 6 In. „ of Nave 250 ft. „ presbytery,, ... 83 ft. 6 in. w „ to screen ... 204 ft. „ tower ... 140 ft. „ of transept 178 ft. „ „ and spire .» 315 ft. Breadth of nave and aisles ... 72 ft. „ of presbytery & aisles 57 ft. The Cloisters (entered from the south aisle of the nave either by the Prior's door at the east or by the Monk's door at the west end).—The exterior of the Prior's doorway should be noticed. The cloisters surround a grass plot about 170 ft. square, and the walks are 12 ft. in width. The east walk is the earliest, that on the south a few years later. These date from the days of Bishops Walpole and Salmon (1297-1325), and are Decorated. The west walk was originally Decorated, but has been much altered. The north side is chiefly Perpendicular, but evidently altered from Decorated* The bosses of the Eastern walk shew subjects from the Gospels, with knots of foliage. The grille in this walk formerly led into the Chapter House, which, like the Lady Chapel, appears to have been in a dilapidated state early in Elizabeth's reign. The bosses of the South walk illustrate for the most part the Bevelation of St. John. Those of the West walk continue the same subject. The lava- tories in the first two bays, south, of this walk should be noticed. The bosses of the North walk represent the legends of different saints, with a few subjects from the New Testament. At the west end of the North walk is the Monk's door. The best views of the Cathedral are : from the Upper Close, this embraces the west and south sides ; that from Life's Green, on NOKWICH. 41 the south-east, includes the east end, with the interesting Norman St. Luke's Chapel, and the beautiful clerestory of the presbytery. On the north side of the Cathedral is the Bishop's Palace and garden. The north end of the transept has over the door a niche with figure said to be that of Bishop Herbert, the founder of the Cathedral and of the Palace. The latter has been so much altered as to retain little interest, but the Chapel, well restored, is good. In the garden the so-called Bishop Salmon's Sate- way is worth examination. It has been suggested that it was a halting place for processions. There is also a fine gateway lead- ing to St. Martin's Plain from the Palace grounds. The Water- gate of the Cathedral precincts, now called Pull's Perry, can be reached by Lower Close Lane. It is an interesting fragment of the city fortifications, which on this side for a considerable dis- tance followed the right bank of the river. The Castle. (This can be reached from the west end of the Cathedral by talcing the street running south from the south- west corner of Tombland.) The Norman keep and its entrance tower on the east side are all that remain of the great stronghold erected within the ancient earthworks (probably British) soon after the Conquest. The dimensions of the keep are 96 ft. by 93 ft., and height 70ft. It is not in itself very interesting, because in 1828 a complete refacing took place of the whole fabric, and the lapse of half a century has done little or nothing to remove its brand-new ap- pearance. The earthworks on the central mound, on which the keep stands, formerly included three concentric ditches. Of these only the inner one remains, and is thickly planted with trees. Across this ditch is thrown a bridge which retains scarcely any- thing, unless it be part of the original piers, of the old bridge that from the first occupied the position of the present one. Even if he do not care closely to inspect the outside of the keep (admis- sion only by order from a magistrate), the visitor should ascend the mound for the sake of the fine view of the city. Who the builder of the castle was is unknown, but from about 1077 to 1297 it was mainly owned by the Bigod family, whose last representative, Hugh Bigod, was so prominent a figure temp. Henry III. and Edward I. Early in the 14th century it became the county prison, and at present its huge shell contains the chief of the goal buildings. The open space on the south and east of the castle mound is the Cattle Market. By Davey Place, due west of the castle, we can reach the Market Place, or if we prefer to approach it by the principal street of the city, we go a few yards north into London Street, up which we turn to the left. The Market Place is a fine open space that on Saturday is a busy scene. At the London Street end is the Guild Hall. Externally this has little to recommend it, but within, the Council Chamber should be seen, as it has been little altered since the days of Henry VIII., to which period most of its 42 NOKWICH. fittings belong. Notice in a glass case the sword of Admiral Winthuysen, taken by Nelson at the battle off Cape St. Vincent, and by him presented to the Corporation. Nelson's letter is in the same case. The east side of the Market Place is called Gentleman's Walk, where is the Royal Hotel, The Church of St. Peter Bancroft is at the south-west corner of the Market Place, but on two sides it is closely hemmed in by houses. The suffix Mancroft comes from Magna Crofta, the great field of the castle, now the Market Place. This church dates from the first half of the 15th century, and with the exception of the Cathedral is the finest in the city. The west tower, 98 ft. high, is much enriched, and is a beautiful example of inlaid flint work. It con- tains a fine peal of twelve bells, of which the tenor weighs two tons. The south is the only side of the church that can be well seen, owing to the houses. Its length is 212 ft. The inside of the church is striking. The nave arcade is particularly graceful, and above it is a fine clerestory with two windows in each bay. The open oak roof, which springs from clustered vaulting shafts, is very fine. The chancel is short. In the east window is the old glass, but the figure of St. Peter is modern and poor. On either side of the nave is a small chapel, which make the ground plan of the church cruciform. The picture at the west end of the north aisle, representing St. Peter's delivery from prison, is by Catton, a locat artist, and was presented as an altar-piece in 1768. Notice the font cover, some tapestry attributed to Matilda, wife of William I., and (in vestry) two illuminated bibles. St. Andrew's Hall (admission on week days ; /roe), now widely known in connection with the Norwich Triennial Musical Festival, and associated in days gone by with splendid annual banquets given by the mayor, is the nave of a Dominican church built about 1460. It is late Perpendicular, except some of the windows on the south side which are somewhat earlier. The Erpingham Arms between the clerestory windows outside have probably given rise to the notion that the building was erected by Sir Thomas. It is however certainly later than his time, and it has been sug- gested that his son, who was a friar of the house, may have dedi- cated his [property to the use of the convent. The choir of the church is partitioned off, and was long used as a place of worship by a Dutch congregation. It is now a Nonconformist Chapel. The great hall is, including the aisles, 124 ft. by 64 ft., and con- sists of seven bays. The hammer-beam roof, of chestnut, has been illuminated in blue and gold. The clerestory contains four- teen windows on each side. The walls are covered with numerous paintings, chiefly representing the mayors of the town. There is also a good portrait of Nelson, by Beechey ; of Sir H. Harbord, by Gainsborough; of Kt. Hon. Henry Hobart, by Opie; of Bt. Hon. William Windham, by Hoppner. The portraits of mayors Harvey and Herring are by Opie. The orchestra is at the east end of the hall under an arch. NORWICH. 43 The Norfolk and Norwich Museum (Mondays and Saturdays free ; other week days by subscriber's order, to be had at Jarrold's in London Street) is in St. Andrew's Broad Street, about 300 yards from St. Andrew's [Hall. It possesses a magnificent collection of birds of prey, and another of British birds, including a fine Great Auk. Hardly less important than these collections is that of fossil mammalia, chiefly from the forest beds of the Norfolk coast. Of antiquities there are many of much interest that have been found within the county, and there is a fine hortus siccus of English flowering plants. The museum occupies the site of a palace of the Duke of Norfolk, in which, in 1671, Charles II. and his court were sumptuously entertained. " The chapel room," in which is the principal part of the collection of birds of prey, was the chapel of the palace. Of other objects of interest to the tourist the briefest indica- tions must suffice. St. A ndrew's Church. This may rank next after St. Peter Mancroft, though at a long interval. It was built in 1506, except the tower, 1478 (see the verses over the doors at the end of the aisles), and is Perpendicular. It has been restored. There are some interesting stalls, and also an elaborate monument to Sir John Suckling (d. 1627) and his wife. Sir John was father of the poet, and erected this monument during his own lifetime. Ad- joining the churchyard is the old city Bridewell (now a manu- factory), a fine specimen of flint work. St. Gregory's Church (between Charing Cross and Vottergate Street) dates from about 1375, though considerably altered. The altar is raised on five steps over a lane which runs beneath. Notice the ringers' gallery, the lectern, the altar cloth (made out of a cope), the "sanctuary knocker" on the vestry door, and a fresco of St. George and the Dragon at the north-west corner of the church. St. Giles' Church (in St. Giles Street, about 250 yards west of the Norfolk Hotel), built about 1380, except the chancel, which is modern. It has a fine tower, 126 ft. high. Observe the Decorated tracery of the windows and the groining of the south-west porch. Inquire for the brasses of Bobert Baxter and Bichard Purdnance, both early 15th century. St. John's Church, Maddermarket, between the Museum and Pottergate Street. The tower spans an alley, and, like the rest of the building, is Perpendicular. There is no chancel, but the Decorated east window is said to have belonged to a chancel which once extended across what is now St. John's Street. At the east of the north and south aisles, respectively, are the chapels of All Saints and St. Mary. Notice several brasses placed against the walls. The church has been restored. St. Helen's Church and St. Giles' (or Old Man's) Hospital are in Bishopgate Street, which runs east from the Cathedral to . U NOKWICH—CAISTER. the river Wensum at Bishop's Bridge. The hospital was founded about 1250, by Bishop Suffield (the builder of the E. E. Lady Chapel of the Cathedral), for the infirm clergy of the diocese and thirteen aged poor laymen. The original endowment was increased under the Tudors, after the foundation had been granted to the corporation as an alms-house. Its present revenues fall little short of £6,000 a year, and 200 men and women are now maintained by it. The church of St. Helen's was used as the chapel of the asylum, though no part of the present church is older than the end of the 14th century, to which period the chancel belongs. Only a small portion of the centre of the church now retains its original use. Part of the nave and aisle, as well as the old refectory, are occupied by men's wards, and the chancel by women's wards. The nave was built by Bishop Lehart, in 1451. The original cloisters are still standing, and are used by the inmates. The Bishop's Bridg-e, at the bottom of Bishopgate Street, is the only old one remaining. It has three round arches, and was built, or rebuilt, in 1295. Of the city walls and towers but little remains. At the bend of the river, east of the Old Man's Hospital, is a tower, and a mile further down the stream, on either side of the river, are the remains of two others, between which a boom used to be drawn. These are near Carrow Bridge, at the foot of King Street. For the many other churches, most of which contain some points of " interest to the eclesiologist, see the plan of the city (p. 35). Of old-world domestic architecture, the visitor will find abundance, ramble where he will. In King Street, on his way to inspect the towers mentioned above, he will pass on the right the churches of St. Julian and St. iEthelred, both of which are interesting to the specialist. Two objects of interest in the neighbourhood of the city require mention. At Heigham, about 1J m. N.W. up the river, is the house to which Bishop Hall retired during the Civil War, and in which he died. It is now the Dolphin Znn. The front has the date 1587 above the door, but portions of the house are probably two centuries older. Notice in the hall a piscina and canopy. In the Parish Church is the tomb of Bishop Hall. , Caister St. Edmund is about 3 m. south, reckoning from the Castle. The best way to it is by Ber Street, as far as the Church of St. John-at- Sepulchre, a few yards past which turn to the right, along City-road. This leads to Lakenham and the Yare, which we cross. The road straight on, southward, cannot be mistaken. Caister is, of course, the Latin castra, and it is the Soman Camp on the bank of the Biver Taus that is the object of this excursion. As already mentioned (p. 35), it is a disputed point with anti- quaries whether Norwich or Caister is Venta Icenorum. The camp is nearly square, and occupies an area of about 30 acres. The ditch and rampart on three sides are very perfect ; the west side, towards the river, is said to have been similarly defended, but it is now open. Portions of wall still remain. The Church of LONDON (vil IPSWICH) TO NOEWICH. 45 St. Edmund is within the camp, at the south-east angle, and has an Early English chancel. Its materials were obtained from the camp (notice the large tiles at the angles of the chancel). Many Eoman relics Ijave been discovered at Caister. They are pre- served in the Norwich Museum. For route to Cromer, see p. 51 ; to Yarmouth, see p. 52. m London to Colchester, 5l| w ; Ipswich, 68| ; Norwich, 115 'm. Between London and Stratford, 4 m., the line is carried over the tops of streets, and then as far as Eomford, 12£ m., crosses a flat district, quite devoid of interest. Romford, noted for its ales, on the left, has a pleasant look about it, and about 3 m. off, on the same side, on a wooded eminence, is Havering-atte-Bower, a royal hunting seat from Edward the Confessor's time down to that of Charles I. The country now becomes undulated and wooded as we rise by a steep gradient to Brentwood.' The archi- tecture of Essex cottages, which are largely built of wood, is ugly. What is seen of Brentwood is of the suburban-villa type. As we pass Ingatestone, 23f m., the fine brick tower of the church is seen on the left, and immediately afterwards the wooden tower and spire of Margaretting, on the right. As we approach Chelmsford, Banbury Hill, the highest ground in Essex, with the spire of Danbury Church on the top of the ridge, appears 5 m. away on the right. Chelmsford, 291 w., is well seen against the sky light on the right. It is a prosperous but uninteresting town of "about 10,000 inhabitants, and, though the capital of Essex, has nothing in or about it to induce the tourist to break his journey. At Witham Junction, 381m., a line on the left goes off to Dunmow. &c, and one on the right to Maldon (Inn : King's Head), on the estuary of the Blackwater, a fishing port of some importance, but in no sense a watering-place, and quite out of the tourist's beat. Kelvedon church and village is next passed on the right (notice a fine cedar), and then Mark's Tey Junction, with church tower, with slender wooden spire, on the left. Mark's Tey is the junction for the Colne Valley line, on which is Castle Hedlngbam, where is an interesting Norman stronghold (see Walton and Clacton section, p. 124). Proceeding onward, past Stanway Church, on the right, the line enters a long, shallow cutting, and then crosses the Colne river, here quite a small stream. Lexden Church appears on the right (seep. 123), and we then run into Colchester (main line) Station. Colcliester, nearly a mile on the right, stands up boldly with a profile, broken by many spires and towers (for Colchester, seep. 122). Ardleigh Church, on the left, is the only feature till we come to the Stour Valley, of which a pretty view, with Dedham on the south side and East Bergholt on the north, is obtained just before arriving at Manningtree Station, 59§ m. Manningtree is the junction for Dovercourt and Harwich (for branch to these places, see p. 114). On leaving Manningtree Station, we get a view of the estuary of the Stour, which if the 46 LYNN TO NORWICH. tide be in is picturesque. Beyond Manningtree, on the south side, appears the village of Mistley, with a few craft at its quay. We now enter a gently undulating down country, with here and there a pretty peep, but with no distinctive features until we catch sight of the Orwell estuary on the right, just before reaching Ipswich. (Refreshment rooms. All trains stop. Through train* for Norwich and Yarmouth divide, the part for Norwich leaving first. For Ipswich seep. Ill ; for Felixstowe branch see p. 109). Ipswich as seen from the line on leaving the station appears to small advantage. The line for Norwich quits that for Yarmouth almost immediately, and then passes Bramford station. The church and mill, and weeping willows on the left are pretty. The line now ascends the valley of the river Gipping past Needham Market, the church of which is seen on the left. This is a chalk district and not particularly picturesque. At Stow Market (80! m.) the church with flint tower and very slim wooden spire is on the left. Thence onward, past Haughley, the junction for Bury St. Edmunds and Newmarket, there is nothing to remark for the next 20 m. save now and then a village church. After passing Swains- thorpe station the traveller should look out on the right for the Roman camp at Caister. It is close to the line across the little river Taus, and is well seen, as is the little church in its south- east angle. We are now within 3 m. of Norwich, which is entered through the prettily wooded valley of the Tare. Lynn to Norwich, Cromer, and Yarmouth, &c. There is a choice of routes. (A.) By G.E.R. via Dereham and Wymondham to Norwich, whence (i.) by North Walsham to Cromer, (ii.) by Brundall to Yarmouth. (B.) By E. and M.R. via Fakenham and Melton Constable, whence (i.) onward to Norwich, or (ii.) via North Walsham to Yarmouth, or (iii.) via North Walsham to Cromer, G.E.R. (A.) tyiin to Dereham, 26| m ; Wymondham, 38 m ; Norwich* 48£m. By this route the tourist is enabled to pay a visit to the finest monastic ruin in East Anglia. at Castle Acre. To do this the pedestrian should quit the train at Narborough and walk via Narford and South Acre to Castle Acre, rejoining the train at Swaffham, a walk of about 9£ m. Those who drive can obtain a conveyance at Swaffham which is 4 m. from Castle Acre. Near Middleton station, right, is Middieton Tower, part of a hunting castle of the Widville family. It is of brick and stone, and probably dates from about 1470. Two miles further on the right appears the tower of East Winch church, and then at 6J m. we reach Nwborough, CASTLE ACEE. 47 Walk from Narborough to Castle Acre and Swaffham, 9| m. Leave the station on the east side,, and in a short distance turn to the right through the village. The Nar, a bright trout stream, is crossed just before reaching the church. Narborough Church has been restored and has an elaborate, Perpendicular, east window. There are several brasses to members of the Spelman family, the earliest to Henry Spelman, 1496. Narborough Hall, built by Judge Spelman about 1530, is on the opposite side of the road in a flat but well timbered park. On leaving Narborough, at the junction of five roads, take that to the left. This is pleasantly shady and picturesque as it approaches Narford Sail, which is close to it on the left. At the back of the Hall the little river Nar expands into a sheet of water which adds much to the prettiness of the spot. The Hall has no architectural interest, but is celebrated for having long been the home of the many art treasures collected by Sir Andrew Fountaine, the antiquary (d. 1753). The collection was dispersed in 1884 and the sale, on account of the many priceless objects, was one of the events of the season. Onward the road continues well timbered, and rising gently overlooks the shallow valley of the Nar, beyond which is seen West Acre Church, and in the fields between the road and the stream a few frag- ments of West Acre priory. When the road again drops into the valley, pass through a gate on the right, and follow a green track. On reaching the top of a slight rise, the foundations of a small cell are close by on the left, and then descending, in a few yards we rejoin the road which runs through a wood. Soon we reach South Acre Churchy small Decorated building with park-like sur- roundings. Almost immediately afterwards turning sharply to the left through the hamlet of South Acre, and then crossing the Nar, we see on the left the extensive ruins of Castle Acre priory. The tourist who reaches Castle Acre from Narborough will save time by visiting priory, church, and castle in the order named. There is only public-house accommodation in the village. Castle Acre Priory. The road which ascends from the bridge to the church runs outside the old precinct wall, portions of which still remain. As a short cut the bank on the left can be scaled, and then crossing a meadow, watered by the Nar, we arrive at the east end of the ruins. The road goes up past the church and then turns to the left. This is the recognised approach as well as the more picturesque. We enter the precinct by a late Perpendicular gateway. Notice the arms of de Warrenne, the founder of the house. William de Warrenne and his wife G-undrada, on their return from Rome, repaid the hospitality they had received at Clugny by establishing priories of Cluniacs here ;and at Lewes. The earliest buildings however, at Castle Acre have disappeared with the total destruction of the castle, within whose circuit they stood. The present ruins date from the end of the 11th century, and as far as they are Norman are the work of the second Earl de Warrenne. The road from the entrance gateway leads to the west front of the priory church which is a strikingly beautiful, late Norman, elevation. It originally had a tower on either hand ; that on the south side is still standing, but of the northern one only a fragment remains. The arcading and mouldings are scarcely injured after a lapse of 800 years. The upper part of the south tower is almost Early English, and the transitional work combines the grace of lancets with the rich mouldings of the previous style. Entering the nave by the central door we can trace the complete outline of the church, although only bases of pillars and portions of walls remain. The south west tower still retains a stair in its [lower portion. The interior of the fine west door is spoilt by the insertion of a'lower flat arch of early date. The four great piers that carried the central tower are much larger than the rest of the bases. The transepts had only a slight extension north and south ; a portion of a staircase remains in the north arm. The Norman church probably extended only two bays eastward of the tower and ended in an apse. During the Perpendicular period this portion of the church was much altered, and it is said lengthened by the addition of a Lady Chapel. The south arm of the transept has an apsidal chapel. The cloisters are on the south side of the nave, and have opening from the east walk, reckoning in order from the transept : the chapter house, Norman, next to which are the stairs that led to the dormitory which occupied the rest of this side and extended beyond it southward. At the south-east corner of the cloisters was the entrance to 43 EAST DEREHAM. certain offices beyond. The refectory completed the south side of the cloister. The west side was occupied by buildings, whose use is uncertain. South of the choir of the church was the cemetery, and beyond it the infirmary and its chapel, of which, however, only a few shapeless fragments remain. The buildings now occupied for farm purposes include a small Perpendicular chapel on the south side of the west front. The situation of the priory, surrounded as it is by meadows with a sprinkling of trees and here and there isolated fragments of ivy- clad ruin, the whole brightened by the clear stream of the Nar, is eminently beautiful. On our way to the Castle the parish church may be visited. It is mainly Perpendicular, but the chancel is Early English, though much altered. It has been restored, and, though a fine church and well placed, has no particular points of interest. The font-cover should be noticed. We now proceed to the village, which consists of a mean steep street called Bailey Street, at the top of which Is a poor Early English gateway. Half- way down, a lane on the left leads to the Castle, which we enter through the great gateway, of which only a trifling fragment is to be seen. The strong- hold consists of a circular trench and central mound, and south of this a horse- shoe work similarly defended. Both of these are said to be British. On the east of the circular work is a rectangular enclosure, and westward a large irregular rectangle extending nearly to the church, and now partly occupied by the village. These are Roman additions, the last named is called the Barbican, and retains its enclosing mound only on the south and west. Of buildings there are none beyond some ivy-clad wall on the circular mound and a few fragments elsewhere, and the whole site has a shabby, neglected appearance. The road to Swaffham (4 m.) crosses the Nar at the bottom of the village street, and thence onward is almost straight and cannot be mistaken. It traverses a bare and featureless district. The railway between Narborough and Swaffham is through a bare open country. Swaffham (Inn, George, good and reasonable) is on the south side of the line. The inn just named is in the Market Place and close to the church, which is interesting. The fine tower is unfortunately topped by an ugly spirelet. Notice the Sanctus bell turret at the east end of the nave, and the light clerestory partly of brick: The interior has been partially re- stored, but the galleries are retained. The roof is fine and in the windows of the north aisle are a few fragments of old glass. The line now has a good many cuttings, and nothing of interest appears till we reach East Dereham, 26| m. (Inn, King's Arms). This is a pleasant country town of about 5000 inhabitants. Here Bishop Bonner was vicar, and Cowper spent the last years of his life. The poet's house was in the Market place, but has had to make way for the "Cowper Memorial Church/ ' a Nonconformist chapel. Dereham was the site of St. Withburga's nunnery. She died in 743, and was buried in the churchyard, but her body was a few years later removed to a shrine in the church. In the 10th century, when Dereham became the property of the great house at Ely, the saint's remains were carried off by stealth and de- posited near those of her sister St. Etheldreda. The church is well worth a visit. It is to the west of the town, and has some fine trees in the churchyard, which is picturesquely situated on the hill side. The church is cruciform, and dates from the latter half of the 12th century, to which period belong the twisted shafts on either side of the chancel arch. The chancel is Early English, the north transept arch Decorated, the central tower LJNN TO NORWICH. 49 Perpendicular, the south porch later in the same style. The building is thus quite a compendium of styles. The Font was once . magnificent, and is still interesting. Enquire for a fine carved chest. Cowper's grave is in the north transept. On the south of the church, but separated from it, is a large square bell-tower, built about 1500. In the churchyard, near the west end of the church, is St. Withburgra's well. The story is that this spring burst forth at the time when her body was disinterred and placed in the church. On leaving Dereham the line strikes S.E., and offers nothing of interest until we reach Kimberley, 7£ m. from Dereham. This is the station for Kimberley Hall, the park of which is famous in Norfolk for its fine oak timber. Kimberley church, f m., on the right, contains a good brass of a man in armour. The line passes close to Crown Thorpe church on its circuitous route to Wymond- ham, for which, and the route onward as far as Norwich, see p. 34. (B. i.) IiV nn to Fakenham, 20J m ; IWCe.lton Constable, 28 m ; Norwich (City Station), 50 m. This is the newly opened route of the E. & M. B. Directly after leaving Lynn, Gaywood village and church are on the right, and 2 ra. further, the ruined church of Bawsey is on a green knoll close to the line. After passing Grimstnn Road station, Roydon church is on the left. As we approach Hillington station, the gateway with towers, of Hillington Hall is on the left, and the church on the right. Beyond the station, we get a good view of the Hall itself on the left, and enter an undulated chalk district. Then the ancient Peddars Road, now grass, is crossed, and then Harply Church is on a hill on the left. Massingha/m station is the one for Houghton. (See p. 60.) Through an uninteresting district we reach Raynham Park station. (For Raynham Park, pictures, see p. 63.) Tatterford church is nowon the left, and the line descends the valley of the infant Wensum past Sheerford, whose church, on the right, close to the line, has a round tower. Sculthorpe Fen lies across the river, and at 20£ m. we reach Fakenham. (See p. 63.) The railway still follows the Wensum valley, and goes under the G.E.R. Wells line, with which it runs nearly parallel for a mile. It then strikes up the valley of the Cat Brook, past Croxton Hill on the right, to Thursj'ord station, after which there is a pretty view, backed by hills on the left, as we sweep round in a curve to Melton Constable station, where are the railway works of the Company. Of Lord Hastings' great seat, nothing is seen but woodland, and the house is not shown to the public. Melton Constable is the junction for North Walsham and Yarmouth, as well as for Holt (p. 75). From this point the scenery, which has thus far been quite uninteresting, begins to improve, and without being striking includes several pretty bits. Hindolvc stone village and church are passed on the right, and then Guestwich church, left. We next Guide, VI. E 50 LYNN TO YAEMOUTH. pass over the G.E.R. Aylsham branch, close to Themelthorpe church on the right. Sail church (see p. 72) is a prominent object on the left. Reepham station, on this line, is about a mile from the G.E.R. station of the same name. (For Reepham, see p. 72. ) In about 3 m. onward, we again reach the valley of the Wensum at Lenwade, just below Lenwade bridge. The country is now wooded, and we get pleasant peeps of the river on the left, and then cross a wild common to Drayton station for Costessy, where the fine park of Lord Stafford is on the right bank of the Stream. Drayton Hall and church are seen on the left, and Costessy on the right, and then a few miles of bare uninteresting country bring us to Norwich, the spire of whose Cathedral is seen on the right. The terminus of this line is Norwich City Station. (6. ii.) Lynn to Melton Constable, 28 m ; North Wal- iham, 44 m; Yarmouth, 68} m. For this route as far as Melton Constable, see p. 49. Thence as far as North Walsham the route is by the new line opened in April, 1883, which passes near Haydon on its way to Aylsham (see p. 72), short of which it crosses the pretty valley of the Bure, and by Felmingham runs to North Walsham (see p. 52), where it passes under the Great Eastern Railway, Cromer branch. The Great Eastern station is distinct but close by. (For route onward to Cromer see v. 52). On leaving North Walsham the line soon crosses the Wahham and Dilham Canal, and high on the right is seen the tower of Worstead Church (p. 52) and Westwick " Obelisk." Honing Church, small, is on the left, and then across the canal that of Dilham on the right and, as we approach Stalham, Brumstead on the left. (For the route from Stalham to Happlsburgh, see p. 79.) The country now becomes very flat and uninteresting as the line enters the Broad district. On leaving Stalham station the grown-up Stalham Broad, now a mere channel, is on the right. Hickling Church is next on the left, and then Catfield village on the right. Catfield is the station for Hickling: and Barton Broads, from which it is distant respec- tively l£ m. and 2 m. Potter Heigham, the next station, also gives access to Hickling Broad. We then cross the river Thurne, and catch sight of Thurne Bridge on the right, and pass close to the desecrated ruined church of Bastwick on the same side. On the left rises the fine tower of Martham church, and then on the right we get a glimpse of Ormesby Broad, and beyond it Filby Church. From Hemsby Station, which is about a mile from the coast, the line onward to Yarmouth requires no description, as it ( traverses, past Caister, the sandy denes ' which here form a barrier against the North Sea. LONDON TO YAKMOUTH. 51 London to Ipswich, 68fm; Beccles, 109 i m; Yarmouth, m. 121 1 m ; Lowestoft, 117 I For this route as far as Ipswich see p. 45. The first station onward is Westerfield where a branch goes off on the right to Felixstowe (p, 109). The line then follows the south side of the valley, watered by the little river Fyn, across which we catch sight of the churches of Playford and Little Bealings, and then, crossing the Fyn, Martlesham church is on a hill on the right. We now skirt the head of the uninteresting Beben estuary, and passing Woodbridge church on the left, reach Woodbridge station, whence we follow the Deben valley, past Melton and TJfford on the left. The church tower of the last named place is good. On the high ground to the right appear the churches of EyJce and Rendlesham, and we then arrive at Wi kham Market, where a branch on the left goes off to Framlingham (p. 107). We now have the little river Ore on our left, and on the high ground the church of Little Glemham, after which the river Aide is crossed, and then through a featureless district we run to Saxmundham, where a branch goes off, right, to Aldeburgh (p. 103). In little over a mile, the fine church of Kelsale is on the left, after which nothing calls for notice till we reach Halesworth. Notice the curious erec- tion on the church tower, left. Halesworth is the junction for Southwold (p. 98). The country is still devoid of objects of interest all the way to Beccles, which is well seen on the right as we enter the statiom. (For Beccles see p. 97.) The train here divides, the Yarmouth portion leaving first. We cross Beccles Fen to the river Waveney, spanned by a bridge that, like most of its kind in these parts, requires the train to proceed at a foot pace. Xiowestoft appears to the right across the marshes. A mile or two of undulating country intervenes before we finally reach the lower course of the Waveney. As soon as Albe station is passed, we cross more marshes and another bridge over the river, and get a view of the flat district that lies inland from Yarmouth and Lowestoft. A bit of heather is a pleasant surprise, as we strike past Belton with its round church tower on the right, on which side the Nelson monument is a con- spicuous object as we approach Yarmouth. Beccles to Lowestoft is a run of about 8 m. Just before reaching Lowestoft a good view is obtained of niton Broad and Lake Lothing. Norwich (Thorpe Station) to Wroxham, 82 m; Cromer, 84 m. For the first 2 miles the line descends the valley of the Tare past the well wooded hamlet of Thorpe, on the left. The river which is twice crossed, and has on the right of the line a naviga- tion cut, generally rendered picturesque by latteen sailed wherries* is much used hereabouts by pleasure craft. At Whitlingham 52 NORWICH TO CROMER. Junction the line strikes off north, passing as it does so the large County Lunatic Asylum on the right, A featureless run brings us to Wroxham, close to which station we cross the Bure. Wroxham is the junction for the Aylsham line, which opens up the picturesque valley of the Bure, and is itself pretty. It is a great angling centre, and within a couple of miles of Wroxham and Hoveton Broads. Continuing northward, Westwick church appears on the left and Worstead on the right. Worstead (Inn, New) is the village that gave its name to the woollen yarn, worsted. In the 12th century, Flemish weavers established themselves here, and the prosperity thus introduced is witnessed to by the fine 14th century church. The tower is late Decorated, the nave Perpendicular. Notice the flint and stone arcading running round the outside. The south porch has a parvise and is richly carved. Inside, the screen across the chancel and aisles is interesting, and another at the west end still more so. The latter has good modern paintings in its panels. The font and its cover should also be examined. Proceeding on our journey, far away on the right rises the tower of Haypisburg, and at 16 m. we arrive at North Walsham, North Walsham is a well to do market town of about 3000 inhabitants (Inns, Angel, King's Arms). The E. & M. R. has also a station here. (In the summer an omnibus runs two or threetimes a day to Mundesley.) The churchy restored, is large and hand- some, and mainly Perpendicular. The tower is in ruins. It was 147 feet high, but fell in 1724.. The south porch is fine, and bears the arms of John of Gaunt. The interior, owing to the number and size of the windows, is almost too light, though certainly of fine proportions. The remains of the screen, the font, and pulpit, and the elaborate monument of Sir W. Paston (d. 1608), are the chief items of interest. The Market Cross, restored, was built by Bishop Thirlby about 1550, and is of little merit. There is nothing calling for remark in the remaining portion of our journey. Gunton Station, 4£ m. from Cromer, is the nearest to the fine park of Gunton. The lighthouse is a prominent object on the right as we reach Cromer. Norwich to Lowestoft, 23* m. y to Yarmouth (Vauxhall station), 20£ m. This route follows the left bank of the Tare, though it only approaches close to the stream at one or two points. Owing to the flatness of the river valley, the sails of wherries and other craft appear to rise from the fields and marshes as the stream is generally out of sight. After passing on the left the picturesque suburb of Thorpe, the Cromer branch goes off on that side, and Whitlingham church, in ruins, is on the rising ground NORWICH TO LOWESTOFT. 63 across the river. Postwich Grove is then passed on the right, and we arrive at Brundall, the church of which stands well upon the left. From Brundall a line, opened in June, 1883, proceeds by Lingivond and Acle to Yarmouth. This somewhat shortens the journey by avoiding the detour by Reedham. The Acle to Yarmouth portion of this route was opened in April, 1883. Brundall is the station for Surli a -ham Br oacS. The line now turns south-east, past Cantley to Reedham, where for a mile or so we lose the marshes on the right. Reedham is the junction for Lowestoft, to which the line runs across the marshes of the Waveney valley, passing on the left Herringfieet and Somerleyton. It then crosses the foot of Oulton Broad, and by Lake Lothing enters Low stoft. Between Reedham and Yarmouth, after crossing Reedham marsh, the line follows the north bank of Breydon Water, which at high tide is a lake 2 m. long by k m, broad, but an unsightly expanse of mud at other times, beyond which rises Yarmouth. 64 gjMD |5*. (Mtmmfls. Hotels: Angel, on Angel Hill; Bell 9 in Market Place; Suffolk. Population: 16,211. This interesting tcwn does not lie on any direct route to the east coast, but has so much to show that is worth seeing, that the traveller may well make it the object of a slight detour. There are two stations : one on the Cambridge and Newmarket line ; the other, Bury Eastgate, on the Sudbury and Marks Tey branch. The point to be first made ior is Angel Rill, on which is the Angel Hotel, nearly opposite the Abbey Gate. It may be taken ior granted that those who go out of their way to visit Bury will be familiar with Carlyle's Past and Present, and the early history of the Abbey of St. Edmund. The shrine of St. Edmund was for centuries the object of pilgrimage, and the town was frequently visited by the Court. In 1214 a great meeting of the barons took place here, when it was determined to make no peace with the king until he should grant what has since been known as Magna Charta. It was at Bury, as will be remembered by readers of Shakespeare's Henry VI., that that Parliament was held which determined the fate of Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester. The Abbey Gate was the chief entrance to the monastery. It is a magnificent Decorated work, built in 1337, in place of one destroyed fifty years before. Its dimensions are 50 ft. by 41 ft., and 62 ft. in height. The many niches are now empty, but within the gate there are coats of arms in good condition. The eastern arch is particularly good. The Botanic Gardens now occupy a principal part of the Abbey grounds. Here observe the remains of the Abbot's Palace, and proceed to the Abbot's Briag-e at the north-east corner of the grounds. The ruins of the Abbey Church are on the south -side of the gardens through a small gate. They are not of much importance, the principal part consisting of the piers of the central tower. The shrine of St. Edmund must have been a little to the east of this tower. Notice the three tablets on the north-east pier, two of which refer to the Great Charter, and one on the south side marks the present burial place of Thomas Beaufort, second son of John of Gaunt. Across the river Lark on the east side of the grounds was the vineyard of the Abbey, and some of the terraces may still be traced. .Returning to Angel Hill we next come to St. James* Ciiurcn. This is a fine Perpendicular building, begun about 1440, but not completed till nearly a century later. The chancel is modern, by the late Sir G. Scott. The dedication is to St. James of Compostella, to whose shrine Abbot Samson intended to pay a visit, but was dis- suaded by his monks who induced him to found this church in- BURY ST. EDMUNDS. 65 fltead. Of his work, however, nothing remains. An epitaph formerly in the churchyard is worth preserving ; Here lies Joan Kitchen, when her glass was spent, She kicked up her heels and away she went. Just beyond St. James' Church is the Norman Tower, built about 1090, by Abbot Baldwin. The western porch is perhaps half a century later, and has the tympanum filled with a pattern formed of segments of circles. The bells of St. James' Church are hung in this tower. Continuing along the street a short distance, we come to St. Mary's Church, which was begun in 1424, and finished in 1433, with the exception of the north porch, which was added after 1437. Like St. James' church, it has no tower, and the exterior is consequently somewhat lacking in dignity and in striking contrast to its fine interior. The arches on each side of the nave are very light and lofty, and above them is a small clerestory. The great feature of the church is the magnificent open timber roof, which was constructed at Caen. The hammer beams are beautifully carved, and between them are figures of saints and angels. The spandrels of the arcade are also much enriched with figures and foliage. The chancel has a waggon roof as interesting as that of the nave, and very rich. At the east end of the north aisle of the nave was a chapel dedicated to the Virgin, the roof of which is also deserving of notice. Of coloured windows, observe that over the chancel arch representing the martyrdom of St. Edmund. He is tied to a tree and pierced with an arrow. The east window, of four lights, depicts St. John, the Virgin, St. James, St. Peter, with subjects in the life of each below. The great west window consists of two tiers of five lights, and was filled between 1854-59, having been originally designed as a thank-offering for the abundant harvest of 1854. At the west end of the south aisle is the Bristol window, a memorial to the second Marquess of Bristol, whose family seat, Ickivortk, is 3 m. south-west of the town. Of monuments, notice at the east end of the south aisle the altar tomb of John Baret (d. 1463), and in the chancel that of Sir Kobert Drury (d. 1536) and his wife, also that of Sir William Carew (d. 1501) and his wife. The Worth Porch was built with the money left by John Notyngham (d. 1437). The groined roof is good. On Angel Hill is the Athenaeum, containing library and reading-room and the county Museum. By Abbey Gate Street we proceed to Guild Hall Street, turning to the left after passing the Corn Hall to the Guild Hall. Here is a good public library. The Perpendicular porch and Early English doorway are the only portions of the building not modern. Returning along Guild Hall Street, we reach the Market place, where is IKoyses' Hall, now the Police Station. This is a late Norman house, said to have belonged to the Jews, to whom Abbot Samson dealt such hard measure. 66 fjMttsstomfott Btrtim. Hunstanton S. Edmund's.—Hotels : Sandringham, Golden Lion, Wales'. Refreshment Rooms at Station cater for Excursionists. Post : Del., abt. 7.0 a.m., 1.35 p.m. ; desp., 10.35 a.m., 5 (North), 6.10 p.m. Telegraph Office. O'd Hunstanton.—Hotel: UEstrange Arms. Post: Bel. abt. 8 a.m., 3.30 p.m. ; de*p., 5.10 p.m. Letters for Old Hunstanton should have Hunstanton, IS. Ed^mundSs added to the address. Hunstanton S. Edmund's owes its rise as a watering-place to the opening of the railway in 1862. Previous to that date the Golden Lion Hotel (then called the Eoyal) and one or two small lodging-houses were all that existed of the present rapidly growing town. In spite of its newness S. Edmund's is a pleasant and bright little place. Its hotels and lodging-houses are built around a Green sloping to the west, and overlook the entrance to the Wash, across which, some 22 miles away, rises the lofty tower of Boston's grand church, locally known as Boston Stump. On the Green are plenty of seats and the remains of an old cross brought from Hunstanton Hall. There is an iron Pier, 280 yds. long, jutting out from the Promenade which skirts the shore. The bathing is good and safe. The only public buildings of importance are the Church—modern, by Preedy—and the Convalescent Home. The latter, in great .part a memorial of the recovery of the Prince of Wales from his dangerous illness in 1872, was opened in 1879. It is open to the poor of the diocese, and for those who use it a charge is made of 5s. a week. The total cost of each inmate averages nearly £1 per week, and the institution, which has proved of immense benefit, is dependent on subscriptions to sup- plement the contributions of its beneficiaries. Old Hunstanton is more than a mile north of S. Edmund's, and may be reached either by road, or along the cliffs, or by the shore. Here, in addition to the old-fashioned hotel, are a few * lodgings,' which are taken by those who prefer to be in some measure out of reach of the crowds of excursionists that visit S. Edmund's during the season. There is a Life Boat Station, and one or two bathing-machines, and ample sands give opportunity for excellent bathing. Adjoining the village on the east ia HUNSTANTON. 67 Hunstanton Hall, the interesting seat of Hamon S. Le Strange, Esq., whose family has held this property for 800 years. The Hall (not usually shown) dates from the beginning of the 16th century. In 1835 some additions were made, but in 1853 the mansion was robbed of much of its interest by a disastrous fire. The park contains some fine timber, and from its higher ground affords a good view of the neighbourhood. The Church, which is close to the entrance of the park from Old Hunstanton, is Decorated. It occupied the site of a Norman church of which the font is still preserved, and was practically rebuilt by the late Mr. Le Strange, to whose masterly know- ledge of church architecture and decoration so many churches bear witness and notably Ely Cathedral. In the interior, the points specially calling for mention are, the fine nave roof; the Jont and its mosaic flooring ; the east ivindow of 5 lights filled with stained glass representing Old and New Testament scenes, a memorial to Mr. Le Strange who died in 1862 ; the alabaster reredos. Of tombs and brasses the principal are : the tomb of Henry Le Strange, d. 1485, and his wife, on the north side of the chancel ; at the west end of the south aisle that of Sir Roger Le Strange, died abt. 1507, who was a Knight of the Body to Henry VII. The brass of the knight is in good preservation, but some of the armorial shields are missing. At the east side of the churchyard is a large shapeless mound, possibly *a barrow. There is a Lighthouse on the cliff south-west of Old Hun- stanton, the lantern of which is 115 feet above the sea, and exhi- bits a fixed white light visible 16 miles. The lighthouse tower is itself 50 ft. in height. To the west of it are the scanty and un- interesting remains of S. Edmund's Chapel. Hereabouts Edmund, then a boy of 14 years of age, is said to have landed from Saxony, on Christmas Day, 855. Local tradition assigns the chapel to him, though of its date nothing is certainly known. At night, 7J miles distant, north-east, is seen the revolving light of Lynn Well Light-vessel, which marks a shoal known as Long Sand. The most interesting natural feature of Hunstanton is its cliff, noted for its red chalk. The best way of seeing it is to walk along the shore northwards from S. Edmund's. The cliff in its highest part is only about 60 feet, but is striking from the contrasted colours its strata present. These strata, from the top downwards, are lower chalk without fossils, chalk marl full of fossils, white chalk, red chalk, and carr stone. The last-named of a deep red-brown colour, is a good building stone much used in the neighbourhood. The table -like blocks with which the shore is almost paved to the north of the lighthouse, are of this rock. Owing to the wasting away of the cliff, its base is strewn with masses of all the different strata, and the fossil-hunter can with little difficulty make a considerable collection. The chalk- marl in places is almost wholly composed of organic remains. 58 HUNSTANTON SECTION. The distances at the head of each excursion are reckoned from Hunstanton S. Edmund'$, 1. By road. Holme-by-the-Sea, 3£ m; Thornham, 5 m; Brancaster, 7i m ; Buroham Deepdale, 9£ m ; Burnham Market (or Westgate) Station, 12 m. Of the coast-line the mile and a half between S. Edmund's and Old Hunstanton is the only portion that is not low. All the rest for miles on either hand is alike devoid of interest and picturesqueness. The traveller who has arrived by rail will need to make no further acquaintance with the actual coast between Lynn and Hunstanton. Northward a firm stretch of sand from Old Hunstanton may tempt him to follow the shore as far as Holme- next-the-sea. (This village may also be reached by the Burn- ham and Wells road. By either route the distance is about 2 miles from Old Hunstanton.) Here the church has a fine Per- pendicular tower through which it is entered. The south wall of the chancel is all that remains of the original building, which, to judge by the Early English and Decorated windows, was built between the middle of the 13th and the early part of the 14th century. In the nave is, an early 15th century brass to Judge Nelyngdon and his wife. Continuing eastward by the road, and having the marshes that fringe the coast below on the left, with gently rising ground on the right, in 1£ m. from Holme we reach Thornham (Inns). The church much needs restoration. The chancel, rebuilt by Preedy, is good. In If miles onward we pass through Titchwell, leaving its church a little on the left hand, and then, at 7h miles, reach Brancaster (Inn : Ship), where, overlooking the marsh, are a few traces of the Boman station Branodunum. The church, Perpen- dicular, is of little interest, but is prettily ivied. Before reaching Burnham Deepdale we pass through the hamlet of Brancaster Staithe, to which runs up a tidal arm of the sea. The country now gets prettier, and on the right is Hawker's Hill, with abundant woods. Burnham Deepdale is one of the seven Burnhams, the others being Norton, Sutton, Thorpe, Ulph, and Overy, all lying around Burnham Westgate, or Market. At Burnham Deepdale the tower of the church (restored) is round, and possibly Norman. The font is square, and on three sides bears figures representing the months of the year. It is either Early Norman or Saxon. From Burnham Deepdale to Burnham Westgate there is a choice of routes, (a) By the right hand road after passing the church, and so into the high road from Lynn via Docking, 2%m.; or (6) by the by-road going straight onward, which is £ mile shorter, and in l£ miles has on the left the village of Burnham Norton. In \ mile further we reach the church of that parish. Here the pulpit, dated 1450, has panels bearing representations of the donor and his wife, and the four Doctors of the church. The rood-screen is similarly SECTION MAP N? HOUGHTON. 69 ornamented and bears the date 1458. It is only | mile further to Burnham Market or \vestgate (Inn: Hoste Arms), a small town, of some thousand inhabitants, in a fairly well-wooded neighbourhood. It is built around a market-place, which gives it its distinguishing name. The church calls for little notice. On panels round the battlements are carved in low relief scenes in the life of our Lord. Of the other Burnhams, Burnham Thorpe (Inn: Nelson), 1 mile south-east on the Fakenham road, alone need be noticed. Here, in his father's rectory, in 1758, Nelson was born. The old house has been pulled down. The return to Hunstanton can be made from Burnham Station, by rail in about f hour, or by road through Eingstead (10£ m.), or via Docking and Heacham (13 m.). At Docking: the church, recently restored by Preedy, and the primitive " waterworks"—a public well; water $d. a bucket—are all that need be noted. The hall adjoin- ing the village is the seat of Major Hare. 2. By road. To Rlngstead Downs and Rings te ad Major (3 m.). Returning by Old Hunstanton (6 m. the round). We leave S. Edmund's by the road going off left from the Lynn road and passing Spanton's farm. When the corner of Hun- stanton Park is reached turn to the right. In \ mile further, after leaving the ruins of Ringstead Parva (or Barret Eing- stead) church across a field on the right, the road drops sharply, and we turn to the left through a farm. Hence it is about a mile to Eingstead by the Downs, which are much frequented for picnics. Ringstead Major (or to speak more correctly, Eing- stead S. Peter and Eingstead S. Andrew) had two churches, but of St. Peter's only the tower remains. St. Andrew's, Decorated, was restored in 1864. The return route leaves the village by its north end, and skirts the east side of Hunstanton Park for over a mile. From Old Hunstanton the shortest way to S. Edmund's is by a road on the left soon -after passing the church. 3. By road through Heacham, 2 m ; Sedgeford, 4| m ; Tring, 61 m ; Great Bircham, 9 m ; to Houghton Hall, 12§ m ; returning through Anmer, 16i m ; Shernborne, 19J m ; Snettisham, 214 m 5 Heacham, 24 m ; to Hunstanton S. Edmund's, 26 m. (Massingham Station [inn] , on the Eastern and Midlands Railway, is about 3 miles south of Houghton Hall. The railway journey to or from Hunstanton via Lynn takes about l£ hrs.) This is an excursion that will afford the tourist a fair sample of the kind of scenery to be found inland in north-west Norfolk. Its length, however, is so considerable that the expense of posting will by most persons be felt to be in excess of the merits of the drive. It is, therefore, chiefly for cyclists that we describe it. The start is by the Lynn road. In about a mile there is a sharp descent followed by a gentle rise past Heacham Hall, right, to Heacham Church, which is of little interest. After passing under the West Norfolk Junction Eailway, in a few hundred 60 HUNSTANTON SECTION. yards, take the road on the left, and then in £ mile further the road going off, left, to Docking. Sedgeiord, 4* miles, situated near the head of the brook that runs through Heacham, has a Decorated Church worth a visit in passing. It is just off the road a little to the right. A quarter of a mile beyond the turn to the Church, we quit the Docking road and take a by-road on the right, which ascends a valley of the chalk downs to Ering Church, passing which we turn to the left, and then in a few yards to the right. In rather more than a mile from Fring, when the road divides, take the left hand branch. This in about 1^ miles further brings us to the straggling village of Great Bircham, 9 miles, no inn. Thence the best way to Houghton is by following the left hand road at the south end of the village to the south-west corner of the park, when turning to the left in about \ mile we reach the hamlet of New Houghton,* \ mile south of the Hall. Houghton Bali (Marquis of Cholmondeleyj, built between 1722—35, by Sir Eobert Walpole, is of its kind one of the grandest houses in Norfolk. Hall shown any week day fro- 10 to 4. A charge is made of 3s. for one, 4s. for two, 5s. for three, Sfc. Large parties, fid. per head. The general appearance, if somewhat heavy, is certainly imposing. Its extreme frontage measures some 450 feet, inclusive of the colonnades on either hand. The hall is a noble chamber, 40 feet square and the same in height, and contains some fair sculpture, but the now historic glory of Houghton, its magnificent collection of pictures, was sold a hundred years ago by the then Earl of Orford to the Empress Catherine of Russia for £40,000. Among its present art-treasures are a portrait of George I., by Kneller, and some tapestry made at Mortlake, in Surrey, portraying James I. and Queen Anne, and Charles I. and Queen Henrietta. The park, much of which was planted by Sir Eobert Walpole, contains some fine timber, especially beeches, but was deprived of many of its cedars by the terrific gale of February, 1860. The Church is in the park, a short distance south-east of the Hall, between it and the village. It was rebuilt by Sir Robert Walpole, who with his younger son Horace was buried in it. The way to Massingham Station, 1\ m., inn, from Houghtou, is due south through Harpley, turning left alter passing the church. The return to Hunstanton, indicated at the head of this excur- sion, skirts the south side of the park, and continues nearly due east, crossing, in 2£ miles, the ancient Peddars Road, 1} miles beyond which we reach the pretty little village of Anmev. When near the church, on our left, we turn to the right, and avoiding a lane, soon going off on the right, proceed in direct line to Shern borne. From this point the shortest way is by taking the road past the west end of the church, and then at the next turn that to the left. This brings us to Snettisham, where we regain the Lynn and Hunstanton road, at a point about 3i miles from the latter place. * The ' inn • of the Ordnance Map has long been closed. — HOL&HAM. 61 4. To Holkham. By road, through Burnham Market to the Hollcham Inn, near the West Lodge of the Park, 14£ miles; or rail rn, hour, by to Holkham, on the north side of the Park, 17f ; 1 Victoria Hotel, neir the Station, prettily placed and good. Holkham Hall (Earl of Leicester). The grounds are opened to visitors once a week during the season.* The Park is 9 miles in cir- cuit, and comparatively little diversified in surface. Considerable portions are arable, but the acreage of grass is so extensive that the tourist will find ample scope for a long summer day's ramble, and there is abundance of fine timber, as well as a large lake stretch- ing north from the mansion, § mile. The Hall, built of light- coloured brick, from designs by Kent, between 1735—1750, consists of a central rectangular block, with diagonal wings at each corner, and though it cannot be called beautiful, is majestic. Over the main entiance is this inscription : This seat, on an open barren estate, was planned, built, decorated, and in- habited, in the middle of the 18th century, by Thomas Coke, Earl of Leicester. The vast collection of art treasures at Holkham, though not strictly speaking open to the public, is usually accessible. Visitors staying at the Victoria Hotel are pretty sure of admission. The Vicar of the Parish is the Custodian. The chief objects of interest in the park are the Oldish, 80 feet high, built in 1729. This is to the south of the Hall, and was the first work executed on the estate. It should be visited for the sake of the good view it commands. The Leicester Monument, erected to " Coke, of Norfolk," by public subscription, in 1846, is east of the Hall. It is a Corinthian column supporting a wheatsheaf, and rising from a square pedestal. At the corners of the pedestal are an ox, a sheep, a plough and a drill, while three of the sides are ornamented with designs in low relief: the Earl granting a lease ; Sheepshearing ; and Irrigation. The remaining side bears a long inscription. The Home Farm is well worth a visit by those interested in stock or scientific agriculture. At the south end of the long avenue, stretching from the Obelisk to the principal entrance of the Park, is a grand arch, by Wyatville. On the higher ground, at the north-west of the Park, is the Church, which was nearly re-built in 1869, at a cost of £10,000. It contains much beautiful modern carving, and a handsome monument, by Boehm, to the late Countess of Leicester, at whose expense the church was restored. 5. To Wells. By rail, 20J m., about 1 hour; for Walslng- bam Abbey, Blnham Priory, &c. Wells-next-tbe-Sea (Hotels: Globe; Crown; Railway), now that it has lost its fine 15th century church by fire—it was struck by lightning, and then almost wholly burnt in 1879 • The day is not always the same, so enquiry should be made at Hunstanton. 62 HUNSTANTON SECTION. —has little to call for the tourist's attention. Even at high-water the quay is not very lively, and when the tide is out and the sea literally miles away it is most depressing. The claim of the town to notice in this book is its convenient situation as a centre from which to visit leisurely several places of interest. Thanks to the railway, however, both Walsingham and Binham may easily be seen in a day's excursion from Hunstanton. The most ex- peditious way is by train to Walsingham—5 miles beyond Wells (changing at Wells, where the trains are made to correspond). Thence a drive or walk of 8 miles back to Wells can be taken ma Binham, which is about half-way on this route. Walsingham station is at New Walsingrham (Inn : Black Lion), so called to distinguish it from the original settlement now called Old Walsingham, £ mile north-east. It is situated in a pretty vale on the banks of the little Stiffkey river, and in spite of its prefix, one of the most old- fashioned looking places in England. The village grew up adjoin- ing the Augustinian Priory, founded in the middle of the 12th century. Before that a small wooden chapel, dedicated to the Virgin, had been erected here, and this it was that afterwards came to have a world-wide reputation as the shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham. The priory belongs to H. Lee Warner, Esq., in whose grounds, * 'Walsingham Abbey," the remains of this famous house are. The public are admitted on Wednesdays, 10 to 5. The entrance from the street is by the Early Perpendicular west gate- way. The ruins are more picturesque than extensive. The chief features are the refe tory, with a fine Early Decorated (restored) west window ; the church, with its east window (no tracery) ; and the so-called wishing wells. The image of the Virgin was the great object of veneration at Walsingham This was in the little chapel above-mentioned, whose site even is now lost. In the church a precious relic was some of the Virgin's milk. At the dissolution, the famous image was carried off and burnt with others at Smithfield. Walsingham Church, Perpendicular (re- stored), should also be visited, especially on account of its font, which in spite of terrible treatment is still very beautiful. It shows the seven sacraments on the bowl. The Sidney Tomb in the north transept, and the curious monument of Edw. de Fotherbye, in the chancel, should also be noticed. A little south of Walsingham Priory, but on the other side of the road, are the considerable remains of a Franciscan Convent, founded about 1350, and at Hougrhton-ln-the-dale, 1 mile on the road to Fakenham, the interesting ruins of a chapel, Decorated. We pass Old Walsingham Church (worth a visit if time allows) on our road to Binham, the way to which is by the Holt road, thai quits the Wells road on the right just north of New Walsingham. The distance to Binham Priory is nearly 4 miles. The Priory, a cell of the Abbey of S. Albans (Benedictine), was founded about 1090 by Peter de Valoignes, nephew of William I. This house, FAKENHAM. 63 though of somewhat earlier foundation than its neighbour at Walsingham, never rivalled it in wealth or reputation. The portions remaining are in a meadow by which flows a small brook, a tributary of the Stiffkey. The present parish church formed the nave of the priory church. The west front, Early English, in spite of the built-up Decorated window is still fine. The aisles, transepts and choir are in ruins, and the arcades of the nave and east-end have been built up. The interior of the nave is Early English at the west-end, and the rest Norman. The font. Perpendicular, has been much mutilated. The outline of the cloisters can be traced, and the Early English western gateway (called the jail gate) of the close still remains. The return to Wells, by Warham, calls for no description ; it is about 4J miles to Wells station. 6. To Fakenham (via Wells) 1| to 2 hrs., 30 ra., and Rayn- bam Hall, 4 m. from Fakenham station. (Eaynham Park Station, on the E. and M. K., is 2 m. north of Eaynham Hall, but trains from Lynn do not fit well with those from Hunstanton.) Fakenham is the next station to and 5 miles south of Walsing- ham (see Excursion 5). The town (Inns : Crown, Red Lion) §mile to the west, is a small market-town near the left bank of the Wensum, which is here a mere mill-stream. The church (restored) is large and handsome, and has a good 15th century tower. The chancel is of somewhat earlier date. The font, Perpendicular, is fine. Raynham Ball (Marquess of Townshend. The house is at present unoccupied. The pictures can be seen on application to the housekeeper), built in 1632 from designs by Inigo Jones, was enlarged but not improved, early in the last century. It is noted for its collection of portraits made by Sir Horace De Vere, Lord Tilbury (d. 1635). These include full lengths of himself and his daughter Lady Townshend, by Janssens ; the Duke of Alva, by Antoni Moro (Sir Ant. More), and the principal officers under Sir Horace in his Netherlands campaigns. There are also other portraits by Kneller Vandyck, Eeynolds &c, many of great merit, but the picture at Raynham is the Belisarius of Salvator Eosa. 7. To Lynn and intermediate places (Sandringliam, Castle Rising, dtc). See " Approaches," pp. 28-S4» 64 (Swmtv #Mti0». Hotels: Hotel de Paris ; Belle Vue ; Tucker's\ Bath; all facing the sea. Inns: Ret Lion, Brooke Street; Albion, Church Street; Kings Head, High Street; White Horse, West Street; Wellington, Garden Street. Coffee Tavern : Lord Nelson, in Norwich Road, between the Station and the town. Posts Arr. alt. 8 a.m., 3 p.m. Vep. 11.30 a.m., 7 p.m. Telegraph Office. Omnibuses meet all trains: Fare, 6d. The traveller arriving by rail, on quitting the station, which is on high ground, a long half-mile south of the town, at once obtains a good general view of Cromer and its immediate neighbourhood. The mansion, embosomed in rich woods on the left, is Cromer Hall. In front, across some £ mile of cornfields, the town begins, its two conspicuous points being its graceful Church tower and a flagstaff. On the right hand are more woods and a knoll or tor, that may recall Ilfracombe, while further to the east is the Lighthouse. The sea is well in sight over the town and to the right of the Lighthouse hill, and renders complete one of the pleasantest views between the Nore and the Wash. Cromer itself is not a town that calls for much description. It is situated in a slight depression upon the edge of a considerable cliff, and the hotels and the best of its * lodgings ' command a wide expanse of the German ocean. The principal shops are in Church Square and Jetty Street, and during the season, which lasts from June to October, these are well supplied. The Post Office is in Jetty Street. Along the base of the cliff is a good esplanade, from which projects a short jetty, but the charm of Cromer as a sea-side resort is its neighbourhood. Not only can one wander for miles along the sands, but the cliff top on either hand is particularly pleasant. Inland are pretty drives, indicated p. 66 &c, while for safe bathing the sands are excellent. The amount of shingle on this coast is small, but what there is is interesting from the great variety of its stones, a variety owing we presume to the glacial deposits which overlay this district. Till a few years ago the nearest Kailway Station to Cromer was Norwich, and it is only since 1877 that the line via North Walsham has been opened. CEOMER. 65 but building The place still retains its old fashioned appearance, has begun in earnest between the Station and the Lighthouse hill. autumn, when the Cromer is especially a pleasant place towards the railway which some bulk of the excursion traffic is over ; and within easy regret as having "spoilt the place," has brought reach many points of interest that in old days involved a long drive or walk. The Church, Perpendicular, is both outside and inside a hand- some structure. Outside the most noteworthy features are the flint the fine tower, 160 feet high, a specimen of exquisite work ; buttresses, the flint and freestone ornamentation that runs round The chancel is in the entire building ; and the west doorway. ruins, and consists of huge masses, lying in confusion, justas they in order fell, when this part of the building was blown up in 1681, to save the expense of repairing it. Cromer Church, like many others in Norfolk, was built when the county was commercially far richer than at present, and on the departure of trade it was no longer within the power of the inhabitants, then reduced to a few hundreds, to keep it in repair. Thus it fell into a state of complete ruin, from which, however, it was rescued in 1862—3 by careful restoration, as far as the nave, aisle, and porches are concerned. With the growing popularity of the town as a holiday resort, it is to be hoped that the chancel may soon be rebuilt. Inside the want of a chancel much impair- the effect of the nave which, with its good (modern) roof and lofty arcade, is fine. There are no monuments of any importance. The west window was restored and filled with stained glass in memory of the late Charles Buxton, Esq., M.P. Cromer H The Xignthouse is f mile to the east of the town, and may be reached either by a footpath along the top of the cliff, or by the Overstrand road to the newly laid-out Suffield Park, whence a gate on the left (just after passing a fork in the road, where we take the left-hand branch) leads on to the down on which it stands. Its base is - 18 feet above the sea and some 200 yards back from the edge of the cliff. The light, a white one, shews seaward once a minute, and is visible 23 miles. The height of the tower is 52 feet. It was built in 1832 to replace one that formerly stood more to seaward, which owing to the wasting of the cliff had become imperilled. That old one fell with a landslip in 1866. It may here be mentioned that the coast-line above and below Cromer is peculiarly subject to landslips. " The sea, by dashing against the base of the cliffs, using as missiles the fallen stones, rapidly undermines them, when the upper part falls in and is swept away by the waves. The springs flowing along the junc- tion of pervious beds (sands) with impervious ones (clays) loosen the adhesion of the beds, and the upper part slides down on to the Guide. VI. F — a «6 CROMER SECTION. beach." Harrison. Cromer itself has more than once been in danger of destruction by the sea, and old Cromer or Shipden has been entirely swept away. At low spring tides, Church Rock— mass of wall—may still be seen. It is said to have formed part of S. Peter's Church. As recently as 1837 the sea made a serious inroad immediately under the town, when during a great storm several buildings and considerable portions of the cliffs were destroyed. A sea wall was thereupon built, and this, with addi- tional works executed in 1846-47, has secured the place from further danger. Of the many pleasant excursions that can be made the fol- owing are the chief. tismtiam fxam €tm\xtu 1. By road to Overstrand, 2 m ; Sidestrand, 3 J m; Trim- lngnam 5 m ; Mundesley, 8 m. Returning (a) By the Sands, 6| m. {b) By the Sands to Trimingham Gap, 2& m ; and thence by Cliff-path, 8h m. (c) By Southrepps, 4 m ; TCorthrepps, 5J m ; to Cromer, 8 m. (d) By Trunch, 2| m; Southrepps, 4f m; Northrepps, 6 1 w; Cromer, 8| m. We leave Cromer by the road turning off left from that going to the station, and at the first fork, just below the lighthouse, take the left-hand branch, which, after ascending Smallhopes Hill, brings us to Overstrand, 2 m., prettily situated within an amphi- theatre of low hills. Here, as at. Cromer, an old Church has fallen into the sea. The present ruined church dates from the end of the 14th century, and is very picturesque from its abundant growth of ivy, though not of much importance architecturally. Two of the Buxton family are buried in the chancel, and there are a few indentations once filled by brasses. The new church was built in 1866-7. From Overstrand it is | mile to the shore at Beckhithe, whence the return to Cromer can be made either by the cliff-path in another 1\ miles, or by the sands In 2 miles. The views from the cliff-path are very pleasing. On leaving Overstrand, the road sweeps round nearer the cliffs, and then ascends to sidestrand, 3£ tw., where is a new church, built in 1881 out of the materials of the old one, whose solitary Tound tower stands, J-mile on the left, 201 feet above the sea, SECTION MAP N° 2 --- ' < Kn.r.nll., • < :..lln »"H ,„,„, V,r n In,/,. ..l\ TO MUNDESLEY. C7 in a singularly desolate graveyard, on the very verge of the cliffs. In this graveyard is one old slab, bearing a cross but no inscription. From Sidestrand old Church the return to Cromer can be made by the cliff path in 3£ m Pml To reach the sands we have to continue eastwards by the cliffs a few hundred yards. From Sidestrand, crossing a valley, it is 1$ miles to Triming- bam, 5 m. (Inn: Crown and Anchor). Here the church was formerly of interest, but internally was robbed of much of this by injudicious restoration in 1856. The only points of the exterior demanding notice are the south porch and the low tower windows. The east window, Perpendicular, is small but good. The church is 195 feet above the sea. The village is divided into Church Street, Middle Street, and Low Street, the last-named portion being close to the shore. Half-a-mile from the church, where the road forks, we take that on the left hand. The right hand road goes by Gimivqham^i m, to Truncli,1\ m, (page 77), and North WuUham, 5 m, 5$ m. to the Station (page 62), from the foik. From Beacon Hill, over which the road passes, we get a fine view from south-west round to east, and then have an uninteresting If miles to Miwdesley Church, just beyond which we reach the village. For Mundesley, seep. 76. The walk from Cromer to Mundesley by the cliffs is given page 76. The return from Mundesley to Cromer. (a) By the sands, 61 miles. This requires no description, except to say that the sands are very firm and the cliffs interesting to the geologist. At Mundesley " there is an old filled-up river- bed, which has lately yielded remains of a tortoise Emys lutaria." Harris< n. (b) By the sands to Trimingham Gap, 2£ miles, and thence by cliff-path, 8£ miles. This route during the last 6 miles is delightful. Soon after leaving Trimingham Gap is the only rough bit of walking, and this only for i-mile, where the path runs through some copse wood ; for the rest of the way it is either a field-track or over downs. At about 2J miles from Trimingham we reach the old church tower of Sidestrand, and have the new church and the village a little on the left. Then our route rises slightly and we get a good view from a flat-topped knoll. Des- cending to the valley, in which lies Overstrand, we pass on the shore Be khithe, with its few fishing-boats, and then climb Kirby Hill, get a good view of Overstrand ruined church, and see in front of us Cromer lighthouse, and the top of Cromer church tower. Passing the lighthouse wa enter Cromer. 68 CROMER SECTION. (c) By Southrepps, 4 m ; Uorthrepps, 5$ m; Cromer, 8 ra. Proceeding inland, and nearly due south, in £-mile the little brook of the Mun is crossed. Then at a fork in the road we take the right-hand road, and the same at the next fork £ mile further on. The route then lies straight onward nearly due west to Southrepps (Tnns) and turns to the right past the church, which once was a fine building, but was spoilt by the removal of its aisles, about 100 years ago. Onwards to Northrepps, 1$ miles distant, fche road cannot be mistaken. At Northrepps the church has a good tower, but need n ot long detain us. On leaving the village, we take the middle one of three roads. The pedestrian by taking the right hand road can proceed over Tolls Hill, and so get one of the best views in the neighbourhood. Overstrand lies at the foot of the hill on the north, and Northrepps Cottage to the west. In about f mile we have Northrepps Hall (J. H. Gurney, Esq.), on the left, arid in a lovely dell on the right Northrepps Cottage. The road then descends past the lighthouse hill on the right, and enters Cromer. Northrepps, (d) By Truncal, 2£ m ; Southrepps, 4| m ; Mundesley due south, and 6j m ; and Cromer, 8| m. Leave after crossing the Mun brook take at the fork the right hand road. At the next fork take that to the left. At Truneh the church is worth a careful examination. The chief points of interest are the fine roof and a curious wooden baptistery, both of which are Per- pendicular. The chancel screen is dated 1502. From Truneh we turn northward and take the road going off left I mile from the church. For Southrepps and onward, see above under (c). 2. To Thorpe Market, 4| m ; Gunton Hall, 6i m ; Roughtoa 9 m ; Cromer 13 m. This is by the Norwich road past the railway station. After passing through Crossdale-street, 2 miles, in another J mile or so, the road forks. Both branches go to Norwich, that on the left via North Walsham, that on the right via Aylsham. We take the former of these, and passing Thorpe Green, reach at 4£ m. the Thorpe lodge of Gunton Park, where we turn to the left, and in calls for no particular i mile arrive at Thorpe church, which notice. The village of Thorpe is pretty; and in Thorpe wood, just north of the church, is a fine oak tree, said to be 200 years old. Entering Gunton Park (Lord Suffield) we pass under a tower. On December 18, 1882, Gunton Hall narrowly escaped destruction. Happily the fire was confined to a wing, and the collection of pictures was uninjured. The wing de- stroyed has not (June 1885) been rebuilt, but the house is still one of the sights of the neighbourhood. The church close by has no claims to attention. The park, to which the public are admitted on Thurs- days, is a delightful place to ramble in, and possesses much fine timber and two large sheets of water. We cross the bridge over the channel that connects the lakes, leave the park by the FELBRIGGE. 69 ITanworth Lodge, and take the road to the right hand. This in a little over \ mile runs into that from Aylsham to Cromer. For the latter place we, at the junction, turn to the right, and in 2 miles onward reach Roughton, a small hamlet boasting a small church and inn, and a large windmill. In 1£ miles from Roughton, after crossing Roughton Heath, we arrive at the junction with the North Walsham road, which we took on the outway journey. Gunton Park may be reached also by train to Gunton Station (4$ m.), and thence by Thorpe Market church, a walk of 1 mile. 3. To Felbrigrge Park and Hall, 3 m. The distance given above is that to the Hall from Cromer. The Church, which should also be visited, is about £ mile S.E. of the Hall. The return to Cromer by Aylmerton and the Holt Road is 4 m., but 3 J m. only by omitting Aylmerton, and taking the lane on the right at Sexton's Gate. The route is by Cromer Hall, which is left on the right hand. A well wooded road leads up the valley between Skates Hill (right), and Compit Hill (left.) At a fork of the road take the right hand branch, and follow it to the Cromer Lodge. Here if we intend to see Felbrigge Church, it is necessary to turn to the left, in order to get the key at the parish clerk's in the village, whence a direct drive leads through the park to Felbrigrgre Hall. This fine Jacobean mansion formerly belonged to the Windhams, but on the death of the statesman William Windham, in 1810, it passed to the Lukins, who took the name of Windham. The last owner of this line, a few years ago, sold it to the late Mr. R. Ketton, whose widow now lives here. The house contains some good pictures, including a Rembrandt. The pr\ ft is very beautiful, and has much fine timber, but unfortunately no sheet of water. The Church, Perpendicular, is somewhat dilapidated, but possesses several brasses, of which that in the nave to Sir Symon Felbrigge, 1443, is of great beauty and of special interest as one of the few existing ones of Knights of the Garter. Sir Simon was standard- bearer to Richard II. The bust, by Nollekens, of William Windham the statesman, should also be noticed. About 1 mile (l\ miles to drive) south of Felbrigge is Metton Church, with an archway through the tower. This church has been carefully restored. Returning to Cromer, we quit the park at Sexton's Gate, and then have a choice of routes : (a) straight on i mile to. Aylmerton Church with its round tower, and then turning the left in \ mile further reach the Holt Road. The Roman Camp on the hill, I m. north, gives a fine view of the neighbourhood. Close by are some 1 pit-dwellings.' (6) turning to the right on quitting the park along a pretty lane. This shortens the distance f mile, and we gain the Holt Road \ mile nearer Cromer than by (a). By either route, the 2 to 2£ miles of the main road (by Cromer Rough) that completes the round is picturesque. 70 CEOMER SECTION. 4. To Gresbam Church, 5 m ; Worth Barnlngbam Church, 6j m; Town Barnlngbam, 71 m; Wolterton, 101 w*. Returning (a) by Sustead, 15 m ; IVIetton, 16i m ; Cromer, 20 m. (b) Caltborpe, 12 m; Erpingbam, 13im ; Rougbton, 17£ m; Cromer, 2l£ ?w. Leave Cromer by the Holt Road, and at 2£ miles turn left to Aylmerton, 3 miles. The Church hero is uninteresting, but has a round tower. On Aylmerton Heath are numerous 'pit- dwellings,' locally called * shrieking pits.' When the cross-roads at Stump Cross, 4 miles, are reached, keep straight on. Gresbam, 5 miles, has a restored 14th century Church, with tower, round below and octagonal above, and a good south porch. By taking road south from the Church J mile, may be seen the " Castle " of the Ordnance survey. It is the moat and scanty remains of the Manor House that La 145u was besieged by Robert Hungerford, Lord Moleyns. The main route can be regained in J m. west of, without returning to, the church ; or we can continue vid Bessingham Church—there taking the right hand road. At tfortb Barnlngbam (or Barnlngrbam Northwood) 6J miles, the church (unrestored) contains several interesting Pal- grave memorials, including a good brass to Henry Palgrave, 1546, in good preservation. This is just under the large memorial to Sir A. and Lady Palgrave. In f mile further we enter Barningham Park (J. T. Mott, Esq.), and at 7f miles reach the picturesque ruins of Barnlngbam Town Church. The abundant ivy, the broken ground of the park, the small lake, and the fine timber unite in making this one of the sweetest spots within a drive from Cromer. The Hall is | mile beyond the church. It was built in 1612 by Sir Edward Paston, and is one of the best examples of Jacobean work in East Anglia. We leave the park near the little church of IVXatlabk, and strike south-east by a perfectly straight road that in 1 mile has Wickmere Church \ mile on the left. At \\ miles from Matlask, instead of continuing down to Wickmere Gr>en, we turn to the right, and at lOf miles reach Wolterton Hall (Earl of Orford). The Hall, built in 1736 by Ripley, is of brick and nearly square with a quadrangle of offices on the eastern side. The fine collection of pictures was sold in 1859, and the house is now unoccupied. In the park, £ mile north of the hall, is the tower of Wolterton Church; the rest of the building either fell or was pulled down. Wickmere church, just mentioned, now serves for both these parishes. The park still contains some timber planted by the builder of the house, the first Lord Walpole (brother of Sir Robert), and some fine cedars. The view from the terrace, with a lake in the foreground and Blickling in the dis- tance, is delightful. Returning to Cromer by either route, we leave the park on the north-east, and then by route (a) turn left and pass through Wickmere village, and join the road to Cromer vid Sustead. At — EKPINGHAM. 71 13$ miles, leaving Aldborough to the right, we cross a small brook running to the Bure, and pass a roadside house the Bull Inn, and in another £ mile Thurgarton Church (keep straight on at the cross roads). At Sustead Church, 15 miles, we turn to the right towards Metton, which is passed at 16? miles, and then leaving Folhrigge on our left hand (avoid turn to left soon after passing Metton), enter Cromer past Cromer Hall, after a round of 20 miles. (6) The route from Wolterton to Cromer via Erpingham is about lh miles longer than that just described, but for the bicyclist or for driving is easier. On leaving the north-east corner of Wolterton park we turn to the right, and in f mile pass Caithorpe Church, good font. Down the straggling village, after passing a brook we take the second road on the right-hand, and at 13 £ miles reach Erpingnam Church. This parish gave its name to the family of the builder of the Erpingham Gate at Norwich. Sir Thomas Erpingham was at Agincourt " a knight grown grey with age and honour " (compare Henry V. Act iv. 1). The two armies had for some time remained motionless, " till, at length, Sir Thomas flung his truncheon in the air and called ' Nestroque ! ' • " now strike ' —and the fight began. The point of interest in the church is a brass to John of Erpingham, said to be the father of Sir Thomas. The south aisle and tower—Early Perpendicular were probably the work of Sir Thomas. The rest of the church is late Decorated. Built into the church-yard wall may be seen one of the figures that formerly graced the top of the tower. In ^ mile east of the church we join the Aylsham and Cromer road, and the route then lies nearly due north to Roughton, before reaching which we see on the left the churches of Aiby and Hxw- worth, and on the right the woods of Qunton, on the far side of which rises the tower under which the tourist passes on entering Gunton park direct from Cromer. Rous-hton, 17£ miles, has a church with a round tower, and a considerable heath, on the north side of which stands a large windmill, visible from afar. Passing through Crossdale Street and by the station, in 2H miles we reach Cromer. 5. Aylsham (a) rail via m. (b) To by Wroxham, 24| t by road (for Blickling l£ wi. north-west of Aylsham), 11 m. (a) The railway journey as far as Wroxham calls for no further description than that given the reverse way, page 52. At Wrox- ham we change carriages and proceed by the recently completed Foulsham line. The first station passed is Coltishail, £ mile south of which is the village, prettily placed on the left bank of the Bure. Here a considerable amount of wherry and boat building is carried on, and hence down to the sea at Yarmouth the Bure is navigable for craft drawing a considerable depth of water. The line now approaches the river and crosses it just before reaching Buxton- Lamas. Buxton Church is seen on the left-hand, and then in about 1£ miles Oxnead lies across the Bure valley on the right. 72 CKOMER SECTION. At Oxnead the old hall of the Pastons no longer exists, but some relics of it we shall see at Blickling. Aylsham (Inns: Black Boys; Dog.) is a prettily situated market town, and on Tuesdays is full of life and business. At other times it is quiet enough, though it once was a busy seat of textile manufactures. The church, well placed, has a late Decorated tower and Decorated nave arcades. The aisles are Perpendicular. John of Gaunt is the reputed builder of the church, and his arms are on the fine font. The screen, dated 1507, was given by Thomas Wymer, to whom there is a brass. The old bench ends, removed when the church was re-seated, are worked up, and made into a screen near the altar. The colouring of the South Transept roof and the fine rose window should be noticed. By rail to Cawston is 4} miles. Here the Church, Perpendicular, is well worthy a visit on account of its splendid roof and interesting screen. Sail , pronounced Saul, may be reached in two miles from Cawston. On leaving the Station (up side), we take a road running due west, which alterwards skirts Sail Park at the south-west corner of which we turn to the right, and in | mile to the left. The Church, Perpendicular, which stands high like Cawston, has a fine roof richly decorated especially in the transepts and chancel. The font showing the 7 sacraments has a graceful cover hung from an old carved tower- gallery. There are good brasses to Geoffrey Boleyn, 1440 ; Thomas Roose, 1441 ; John Brigge and John Funteyn, 1453. For a view unusually extensive it is worth while to ascend the Church tower. At the south-west corner of the park, by keeping straight on we can in about a mile rejoin the rail at Eeepham (Station. Reepliam once boasted three Churches in the same churchyard, namely those of Reepham, Whitwell, and Hackford. At present there are two only as the last named was burnt down about 1500. Blickling Hall (Marquis of Lothian), 1J miles north-west of Aylsham (It is 11 miles direct from Cromer by the Aylsham- road, through Eoughton and Ingworth) is the finest Jacobean house in the county, if not in the country. The manor of Blickling was given by William I. to the See of Thetford, whence it passed to that of Norwich, whose bishop lived here down to the beginning of the 15th century. At the beginning of the 16th century it belonged to Sir Thomas Boleyn, the father of Queen Anne. Of the Hall of that day nothing remains. The present building was finished in 1628, but in 1769, the west front, having been burnt, was rebuilt in a debased style. The house is of brick, with stone dressings, and consists of two quadrangles, with square corner turrets. Around it is a moat, and the approach is by a two-arched bridge. The house is well seen from the high road. Of the interior, the finest room is the library, 127ft. by 21ft., with a splendid ceiling, and the hall 42ft. by 33ft., and 32ft. high. The house is only occasionally shown. In the gardens are a conduit, and some statues from Oxnead. The park of nearly 1,000 acres contains a fine sheet of water, f-mile long, to the north of the Hall. In a mausoleum, reached by a long avenue, and about a mile distant, is buried one of the Dukes of Buckingham. SHEBRINGHAM. 73 Blickling Church is in the village, and close to the Hall. It is Perpendicular, and has been well restored. The Early English tower is modern. There are some good brasses. (&) The road from Cromer to Blickling or Aylsham is described the reverse way as far as Erpingham (page 71), which is just off the main road on the right hand. It scarcely lengthens the route to include Erpingham. On rejoining the main road, at 9 miles, we reach Ing-worth, where the church need not detain us. Its round tower, still a ruin, fell in 1812. After crossing the Bure beyond the village, the road to Blickling goes off on the right, and soon bifurcates. We take the left-hand branch. For Aylsham from Ingworth we keep straight on along the main road. 6. To Worth Walsham (rail), 8 m ; Worstead (rail), 10| m. These places are described in Approaches, p. 52. 7. To Sherring-ham by the Holt Eoad, returning by the coast road, through Runton, about 8 m. This short round is pleasant and varied, and may, of course, be made in either direction; the one described has the advantage of descending the hill at Sherringham, and has the fine view of Cromer from the west in front instead of behind the traveller. We take the Holt Eoad, and follow it past Felbrigge Park, left. At 2\ miles the road to Aylmerton and Barningham goes off on the left. Aylmerton " shrieking pits "—the remains of nnmberless pit-dwellings—may be visited on Ajlmerton Heath. (Similar remains may also be seen on Beeston Heath off the main road on the rii;ht.) As we approach Sherringhnm Heath at 4 miles, a road may be taken, left, to East Beckham Church, a pic- turesque ruin, a full mile from the turn. This detour will lengthen the round by nearly 2 miles. The broken ground between the road and the sea, though of in- considerable elevation, is pretty, and the view from the Beacon, or, as it is sometimes called, "Roman camp," is one of the best in the neighbourhood*, and includes a long stretch of coast. The camp may be reached in about 1 w. by turning to the right where the Aylmerton road goes off left. From the camp a foot-path can be followed to Beeston. At the cross roads, 4 m., we turn to the right, and proceed by Slier iingham heath to Upptr Sner- ringhaoi (Inn : Red Lion), The church retains its screen and there are some brasses. The beautiful grounds of. Sherringham Hall (H. K. Upcher, Esq.) are well worth a visit. The hall is modern and in no way remarkable, but the park, well timbered and very varied in surface, is delightful, and from its higher tart gives good views seaward. The descent to the coast road is somewhat steep and certainly pretty. For Bee-ton Priory and Runton, by which we return to Cromer, see Excursion 8. 74 CEOMER SECTION. 8. To Rnnton, 2£ m ; Beeston Priory, 3 J m ; Lower Sner- ring ha in, 4i m; Weybourne, 7£ m ; Salthouse, 10 m; Cley- neit-the-i»ea, 12 w; Blakeney, 13 m; fcUffkey, 17 m; Wells, 201 ™. For the convenience of those wishing to follow the coast line to Hunstanton, we briefly describe the route from Cromer to Wella. Wells to Hunstanton is given the reverse way, pp. 5S-G1. [The excursion to Wells from Cromer is not one to be recom- mended to persons making the latter place their headquarters. All of interest in it is included in the round given above r Excursion 7. The E. & M. E. will in 1837 connect Cromer and Blakeney with Holt and Melton Constable.] We leave Cromer by the " lower road," which, as far as the fishing hamlet of Kast ttunton, 1 mile, runs parallel with, and at a short distance from the coast, and has Ink eborough Hill on the left. Soon after starting, looking back, we get an excellent view of Cromer. The fact that we now attain the summit-level, 129 feet, of the whole route must not lead the cyclist to expect a level road. For the 17 miles to Stiffkey his journey involves a succession of minor ups and downs, along a road that in summer time is apt to be loose and dusty. Ructon Church, Decorated, 2£ miles, has a few points of interest to the ecclesiologist, e.g., some good windows and a piscina. Beeston Priory, 3£ miles, lies off the road a few yards to the right, and is reached by the Abbey Farm. It was an Augustinian house, founded early in the 13th century by Lady Isabel de Cressy. The ruins are not very picturesque, and now lack the ivy that till recently covered them. The chief portions remaining are part of .a tower, the west gable of the church, and some arcading. From the priory it is f mile to the fishing village of lower ssi erring foam (Inn: Croivn), 4£ miles from Cromer, and situated in a nook of the cliffs. The place has no claims to be considered a watering-place, and the traveller bound for Wells, after viewing the ruins at Beeston, can shorten his route J mile by returning to the main road, and keeping straight onward to Weyuourne, having on the left the well-wooded hiils about Sher- rinaham Hall. Weybourne (Inn: Ship) village is mainly £ mile inland. Its steep boulder shore, going down into deep water, has caused it to be chosen as the starting point of the submarine cable to Emden. The church has some traces of Early Norman work, and hard by are the scanty remains of an Augustinian priory. In 1| miles beyond Weybourne a fork in the road gives the tourist a choice of routes to Cley. That to the right goes by Salthouse (Inn : Dun Cow), and all the way to Cley is bordered on the right by the salt-marshes that intervene between it and the sea. That on the left is across Salthouse Heath, and if this, which is the pleasanter route, be taken, then 2 miles onward from the fork above named at another fork we take the right hand road. [That on the left misses Cley, and goes through Wiveton to Blakeney.] § BEESTON PKIOEY. 75 Cley-next-tne-Sea (Inns : Fishmongers Arms ; George) 11 to 12 miles from Cromer, according as we have kept the main road or diverged to Lower Sherringham and Salthouse, is a decayed little port on the right bank of the river Glaven. It once had a considerable trade in corn, but the silting up of the harbour, and, in these days, its distance from a railway, have combined to reduce its commerce to narrow limits. Near the mouth of the harbour on the east side are some remains of Slakeney Chapel, but Cley Chapel has wholly disappeared. Cley Church is of much interest, though greatly in need of repair. It is mainly Decorated. The west door (good) has lost its porch, and the transepts are in ruins. The south porch, with parvise, is early Perpendicular and excellent. The clerestory of alternate circular and lancet lights, and the canopies in the spandrels of the nave arcade should be noticed. The chancel has 1882 been restored, but the early stalls with carved misereres remain. Of brasses that to John Symondes (d. 1460), his wife and children is interesting. If we take the road to Cley over Salthouse Heath we pass the church, on the right, before reaching the main part of the town. A mile beyond* Cley is Blakeney, 13 miles (Inn : Kings Ai-ms), another, and apparantly somewhat more flourishing, port. The church, which is to the left as we enter the village, and on comparatively high ground, has two noteworthy features : a sanctus bell turret and a very fine east window. Over the chancel there is a room whose original use is uncertain. There is nothing to tempt one to go down the village street to the muddy creek, and so at the cross roads just beyond the church we keep straight on. At 14 miles we pass through the little village of JWTorston (Inn : Crown and Anchor), and about a mile further on cross the small river Stiffkey. After a short ascent and descent the road then winds round to the left alongside the stream, and at 17 miles we reach the prettily placed village of Stiffkey (Inn : Townshend Arms). The church (restored), and the remains of an unfinished Eliza- bethan mansion close by, are all the items needing mention. The road hence to Wells cannot be mistaken, and calls for no description. 9. Cromer by Holt, 101 m ; Sinliam Abbey, 18 m ; Wells, 22* m. This is a pleasant inland route through much rich woodland as far as Holt. Beyond that, after passing Saxlingham, the country is more open. After skirting the north side of Felbrigge Parle at 3J miles we pass the little hamlet of Aylmerton Row. At the cross roads, 5 miles, our route is straight onward. At 7 m. is the village of Bodham. Street (Inn: The Hart, about 200 yards to left of main road), and at 10J miles we reach Holt (Inn: Feathers) which is a pleasant bright little market town in a pretty neigh- bourhood. The town has no " lions " to shew the tourist, but is proud of having been the birth-place, in 1519, of Sir Thomas 76 CROMER SECTION. Gresham, founder of the Royal Exchange, and Gresham College. The Grammar School, founded by Sir John, his brother, still flourishes. A branch of the E. & M. R. from Melton Constable has been recently opened to Holt. A mile west of Holt we pass through the village of Lethtringsett and cross the little stream of the Glaven, and at 13| miles reach Saxlingham, where the country is still well wooded and picturesque. Shortly afterwards we traverse the long straggling village of Field Balling, and at its church turn sharply to the left, and soon again as sharply to the right. At 18 miles we reach Binii* m with its priory, for which and the road onward to Wells . see p. 62. §#ttttfl*i8leg. Inns : Royal, a little inland ; Ship, Life Boat, on the cliff. Post : del. abt. 8.30 a.m. ; desp. alt. 2.40 p.m. Post Town, North Walsham, which is nearest Telegraph Office. Porterage, 2s. 6d. Luring the summer an omnibus to and from North Walsham Station. A little fishing village and coastguard station, situated in a dip of the coast. Besides the inns above-named, there are a few small " lodgings." Of " attractions" the place has none, and for this reason it is a favourite resort with those who like a quiet holiday by the sea. The sands are excellent for bathing. Few pleasanter spots on a summer's evening are to be desired than the Httle lawn at the Ship over looking the sea. The Churcb, just beyond the village on the coast-road to Cromer, is dilapidated. The tower, cut down, has been capped, and is used for service. The nave, Decorated, and the chancel, Perpendicular, are in ruins. Of pretty scenery, in the immediate neighbourhood there is none, but within easy reach are many places of interest. fytntniam (torn $tateleg. 1. To Cromer, via Southrepps and OTorthrepps, 8 m, see page 68, returning either (a) by coast road through Overstrand and Trimingham, 8 m, seepage 67, or (b) by cliff path, 8J m, or (c) by the sands, 6| m. The only route of the above calling for further description is (b) Cromer to Munde. ley by the cliffs, 8£ m. The first point to be made for is Cromer light-house (see p. 65). Leaving this, the walk continues for some time over the turf when a dip and rise lead to the flat grassy summit of Kirby Hill, with PASTON. 77 an ordnance cairn, just north of Overstrand. The view from this point is commanding and pretty. Westward the light house is, of course, the most prominent object. Beyond this rises the top of Cromer church tower. The sea lies below at the foot of a high sandy cliff, and away to the East, across a broad valley, abruptly ending in low cliffs, is Sidestrand old church tower. The church tower seen south of this is Southrepps. The ruined church of Overstrand shows well from Kirby Hill, and near it is the some- what commonplace new one, while further off in the same direc- tion appear the ample woods of Northrepps Hall. Descending to the lower ground that hence onward for some distance borders the cliffs, we notice considerable blocks of chalk on the shore. These have been transported to their present neighbourhood by the great glaciers that once traversed this district. It is about 11 miles from Kirby Hill to the hill on the other side of the bay. Sidestrand old church, round tower, in its desolate but still used graveyard is then passed. The cliffs onward are for a time higher and more steep, and at 4f miles we pass a signal mast, a little beyond which, after passing through a bit of copse that borders the cliff, on the right is Trimingfham (p. 67). From this point the pleasantest route is to take to the sands. The cliff walk presents no attractions, and the road that runs parallel*" with the shore from Trimingham and about £ mile inland except for the fine view from Beacon Hdl, a mile beyond Trimingham, is un- interesting. 2. To Trunch, 2| m; Knapton, 3| m; Paston, 4| m. For this route as far as Trunch see page 68. Xnapton (no inn) is 1^ miles east of Trunch and about 2 miles direct from Mundesley. The Church is interesting, the points most note- worthy being the Early Decorated south porch, the fine carved roof and the font. Still proceeding eastward and descending a little past Paston Green on the right, in 1 mile from Knapton we reach Paston (no Inn), celebrated as the home of the Paston family, whose correspondence known as the Paston Letters (1422- 1483) has been preserved and throws much light on the social life of the 15th century. Only a barn remains to represent the old hall, but in the Church are several monuments to the Paston family, including an elaborate one to Lady Catherine Paston. From Paston, by a winding road leaving that village northwards, it is li miles back to Mundesley. 3. To Bromholm (Bacton) Priory, 3£ m ; Happisburgh (or Hazeboro'), 6|m. The distances given above are by road. By the sands the Priory can be reached, turning inland at a gap where is a fair-sized house and some boats, in 3i miles, and Happisburgh in 51 miles. To walk along the edge of the cliffs is impracticable owing to the slips that have occurred in many places. 78 CKOMER SECTION, The road after passing through the length of Mundesley village turns inland to Paston. It then makes many turns to Bacton where the church, restored, is worth a visit. Past the church take the left-hand road and in about i mile turn sharply to the right, and at the next road-junction, to the left. This leads us to the hamlet of Keswick (Inn). The ruins of the Priory are reached by the road opposite the inn. Bromholm Priory was founded in 1113 for Benedictines by William de Glanville, and down to 1298 belonged to Castle Acre Priory, when it became independent. At that date it had already acquired wealth and fame owing to its miraculous rood which was held to consist in part of wood of the Cross. We enter by a gatehouse which in its lower portion is late Norman, though its upper part is much later, Perpendicular. On the right was the porter's lodge. The rest of the ruins are in a farm-yard which is partly enclosed by the remains of the precinct wall. [Permission to view the ruins should be asked at the farm-house.'] The heaps of cobbles here and there tell but too plainly that the work of destruction is going on. The chief objects of interest are the chapter-house and dor- mitory, Early English, and the north transept of the church, Norman. The chief material is cobbles and there is little worked stone. Ivy and neglect are rapidly promoting decay. The road from Keswick to Happisburgh is devoid of interest, and provokingly indirect, and Happisburgh Church, which is throughout a conspicuous object, appears to shun our approach. Imagine a capital Z the central stroke of which makes nearly right angles with the top and bottom. Put Bromholm Priory at the left end of the top stroke, and Happisburgh at the right end of the bottom stroke, and you have a sketch map of the route. Erom the inn at Keswick we proceed east, taking right- hand road, and then in 200 yards at another junction the left- hand one. In about f mile we near the sea at Walcot Gap, and then turn sharply to the right, pass Walcot Church, 1| miles, and \ mile further join the road from Ridlington to Happisburgh. Another sharp turn, to the left, and then avoiding branch roads as we near our destination we enter the steep little street of Happisburgh, 3 miles beyond Bromholm Priory. Eor Happis- burgh, see page 79. By road from Mundesley to Walcot Gap, and thence by the sands, 2£ m 9 to Happisburgh is the shortest and pleasantest route for pedestrians. 4. To Clinton Park, via Southrtfpfte and Thorpe, and returning by Anting ham and Trunch is a pleasant round of about* 15 miles. The " Snffield Arms 11 close to the south-side of the park affords fair road-side entertainment. At Anttngham, the only place on the round not already noticed, were two churches, but of one only a fragment remains. After crossing the railway (to Cromer) we pass on the return route Antina^am Ponds, which form a reservoir for the North Walsham and Dilham Canal. 79 gjawfetotrflft m Paadwro'. Post Town, Znn : HM. Post del. abt. 8 a.m. ; desp. 2.40 p.m. Norwich. Nearest Telegraph Office, Stalham. Porterage, 2s. 6 (a.) Route from North Walsham Station. Leaving North Walsham by the road running south-east from the church, in a trifle over 2 miles we reach Ebridge Mill, and then cross the North Walsham and Dilham Canal, a waterway formed by enlarging the upper course of the Ant River, a tributary of the Bure. At the fork in the road just beyond the canal we take the left-hand branch past Bacton Wood. In 5 miles we arrive at Ridlington, and thence straight-onwards at 1\ miles reach Hazeboro.' (b.) Route from Stalham Station. Proceed down the village street past the church, and shortly after turn to the left. In l£ miles, Ingham {page 80) is reached and we turn again to the left. In 1£ miles further is the Star Inn, Lessingham, a little beyond which we turn once more to the left and then in a few hundred yards to the right. Thence forward, no guidance is needed. A roadside house, the Swan Inn near the lower lighthouse and then the higher light house are passed just before entering Hazeboro* 5i miles from Stalham Station. Hazeboro' (to use the phonetic spelling of the finger posts) is situated a few hundred yards from the shore on rising ground some 60 feet above the sea. Its claims on the visitor may be very briefly summed up : good sands, breezy situation, two lighthouse, fine church, and a comfortable inn, the " Hill Hotel." Adjoining the last named feature and under the same management an annex has been recently built, so that the former limited accommodation for visitors has been increased, though not to such an extent as to render it prudent during the summer months to arrive unannounced on the chance of finding a vacant bed. The lighthouses are to the south-east of the " u " village : the " higher about \ mile distant, the lower a mile; both shewing fixed white lights. A Light Vessel off the shore marks the north end of Hazeboro 1 Sand and exhibits 2 (horizontal^ fixed white lights. The Church, restored, is a fine Perpendicular 80 INGHAM. structure with a graceful tower 110 feet high from the top of which it is said that 40 churches may be counted. The south porch with its parvise chamber and niche containing a Virgin and Child is good. There is also a fine chancel screen and an interest- ing font showing the emblems of the four evangelists and with quaint heads supporting the upper step. The north wall of the chancel appears to be the earliest portion of the building, and is probably part of an older church, but the lights in it have been built up. f ffsntramra ham J5asjelwz0 « 1. Bromholm Priory, 3m; IHuxidesley, 6| m. For this excursion, see page 77, where it is given the reverse way. 2. To Stalham, 5 m (road) ; water to Barton Broad, 7 w; Iiudham Bridge, lljm; St. Benet's Abbey, 12£m; Thurne Mouth, 14 m; Heigham Bridge, 17 m; Hickling Broad Staithe, 21* m; thence by road to Hickling Priory, 24 m; Palling, 26 m; and by the sands to Eccles Church 27§ m; Hazeboro', 30 m. This is a delightful, varied round that can easily be accomplished in a long summer's day, provided a fairly early start be made. The tourist, who is also an angler, by making a two-nights outing* " of it, will have opportunity for some of the best of the " broad fishing. A sailing-boat drawing not more than 30 inches of water should be arranged for to be ready at Stalham. [Boat and man can be had of Teasdel, Boat builder, Stalham staithe.] Route. Leave Hazeboro' by the road running south from the inn and church. At about 1| miles turn to the right, and at next road junction to the left. Xiessingham Church, with its plain massive tower is now right-head, but our way again turns to the right I -mile short of it. At the Star Inn, 3 miles, take right- hand road, when it is a direct course south to Ingham of which the fine church tower is visible over the trees. Zngham (Inn) Church, Decorated, restored by Seddon, 1876, is interesting. Kebuilt by Sir Miles de Stapleton, it was in 1360 made collegiate in connexion with a priory of " St. Mary, the Holy Trinity, and St. Victor for the redemption of captives from the Turks," then founded at Ingham. The sacrist of the priory, who served the church, lived in the two-storied parvise above the south porch. Both inside and out the lines of this church are very graceful. The nave arcades and the pillars that once supported the rood loft, should be noticed. On the north of the chancel is the handsome altar-tomb with efligy of Sir Oliver de Ingham, died 1343, who * Sleeping either at Waterman's Arms (small), Heigham Bridge ; Falgate Inn Heigham ; or Flmsure Boat Inn, Hickling Staithe. ST. BENET'S ABBEY. 81 under Edward III. was constable of Bordeaux, and Seneschal of Gascoigne and Aquitaine. In the south aisle is the once fine but now mutilated tomb of Sir Koger and Lady Margaret de Bois, about 1380. The font, plain and octagonal, is exactly the same in size, &c. as that in St. Nicholas, Great Yarmouth, and probably belonged to the earlier church that was replaced by the present building. On the north of the church are a few ivy-clad fragments of the Priory. At Ingham instead of turning left to the church our road is to the right and at 5 miles we enter Stalham (Inns : Swan ; Maid's Head) a small country town with a large Perpendicular church with a plain massive tower. The rail between Stalham and Yarmouth traverses the broad district and makes the town a good point for angling expeditions. The staithe, where we propose to take boat, is | mile south of the town. Stalham Broad is now only a channel through a reedy marsh. On the left we pass the entrance of a similar channel leading to the fast- disappearing Sutton Broad, at l£ miles from staithe join and then Stalham the Ant river. . In |-mile further we arrive at Barton Broad, a pretty sheet of water with an island in it. This broad is about 1 mile long and J mile wide, and a picturesque arm of it runs east towards Neatishead. The deep water channels are marked by posts. The fishing is open to the public. We leave Barton Broad at the south-east, and shortly pass on the right Irstead Church (good screen and font). A devious course brings us, at 6£ miles from Stalham, to ludham Bridge and, at 7 miles, to the junction of the Ant and Bure. Turning to the left, down stream, at 7£ miles on the right is the Fleet Dyke leading to Walsham Broad, and on the opposite side of the river the ruins of S. Benet's Abbey, founded by King Canute. Landing at the ferry, at the farm-house we can get (temperance) refreshments, and see some few remains of this once rich Benedictine foundation. The fine gate house with a lofty pointed archway and good details is the only portion of the abbey intact—but this will repay examination. The windmill that for- merly crowned it and supplied the motive-powe*r for drainage- pumps is now a ruin. The view from the top of the gate-house is a wide one over the marshes. Continuing our cruise, at 9 miles on the left is the mouth of the Thurne or Hundred river, up which lies our course, past (fine 14th century bell, " Thurne Church inscribed -f- Edmundi nomen constat, cui det deus omen ") on the right. At 10* miles, on the left, is the entrance to the little Womack Broad at the head of which, about a mile from the Thurne, is Ludham village (Inn). If time allows, the detour is worth making, as the Broad is pretty. Beturning to the Thurne the next point is Heigham Bridge (Inn : Waterman's Arms), 12 miles. The inn jnst named is small but clean. The angler making it or the larger Falgate Jrw, $ mile from the river, near Potter Heigham Station on the Yar- mouth and N. Walsham line, his headquarters will be in the heart of some ot the best fishing. A good choice of boats can be had at Heigham Bridge. Guide VI. G 62 CBOMER SECTION. Next comes the railway bridge, and at 13$ miles we reach the mouth of a narrow reedy channel, called Chandler's dyke, on the left. If instead of turning to the left we continue onward another mile, Mar* tli a in (or Somerton) 15 road, can be visited on the right, and the dyke can be followed in a light-draught boat to within about a mile of the coast. Hartham village (Inn : King's A?"ms) is about a mile south of the broad. The church is well worth a visit, see p. 90. Following this channel through the fast growing-up Heigbam and Whitesley Sounds, we arrive at the entrance to Hickling- Broad. After the narrow, thick-fringed course by which our approach has been made, this large expanse of water is a pleasant change. The Broad is about 1 mile long, and of an average width of £-mile, but the western margin is very irregular. Catfield Station on the Yarmouth and North "Walsham line is about 1£ miles from Catfield staithe on the western side of Hickling Broad, and about the same distance from Hickling staithe at its head, where boats can be hired. Continuing to the head of the Broad, we land at Hickling staithe (Inn : Pleasure Boat), after a cruise from Stalham of 16£ miles, supposing no detour has been made, Stalham is, however, only 3 miles north-west by road. If the tourist wishes to visit Horsey 3*fere he mnst return the length of Hickling, and take the narrow Old Meadow dyke that runs out of Whitesley on the eastern side. This is about a mile long. Horsey Mere.—" 3/r/' Our road is by Hickling- village, church, and Priory, in the order named. The last of the three is nearly 3£ miles from the Broad by road. It is a few hundred yards on our right when we have left the church i-mile behind. Only a specialist will find it worth his while to turn aside to visit its site, and the trifling re- mains built into the farm buildings. It was an Augustinian foundation of the end of the 12th century, but it never attained to wealth or fame. After crossing the New Cut at Sound Bridge, we join ' the Palling and Stalham road, and turn to the right. Palling-, 4£ miles from Hickling staithe, is J-mile from the shore, which we make for at a cart gap, just north of the village. The Marram hills (sand) here act as a natural sea-wall. About lj miles north-west along the shore we come to Eccles Church, or rather to its ruined octagonal tower, for that is all that is left. Eccles has had many hundred acres washed away by the sea. The 2 J miles hence to Hazeboro' can be traversed either by the sands all the way, or at about 1£ miles from Eccles we can turn inland at another cart-gap, and proceed by the lighthouses to the village. YARMOUTH Scale, of V* Mile, Reference to Hotels 1 Victoria 6 Qvzens 2 Royal 7 Angel 3 JBaZh. 6 Star' 4- Norfolk 9 Crown & An-choi 5 Holkham 10 DuJce's Head, 83 YARMOUTH AND LOWESTOFT SECTION. Hotels. On Marine Parade, facing the sea, Royal, Victoria, Queen's, Bath, Norfolk, Holkham. On Hall Quay, facing the river, Star, Crown and Anchor, Duke's Head. Close to Southtown Bailway Station, Bear, Bridge. In Market Place, Angel. In Church Plain, Criterion. In White Horse Plain, White Horse, Post : Del. abt. 7, 10.30 a.m. ; 2, 8 p.m. ; desp. 6, 10.45 a.m. ; 1.45, 3.40, 5, 8 p.m. North desp. 3.20 p.m. Tramcars run every ten minutes between foot. of Southtown bridge and the south end of High- street, Gorleston. Fare, 2d. Population: 37,213. Yarmouth, both as a port and as a watering.-place, is by far the most important town on the coast of East Anglia. Hundreds of visitors annually make it their holiday quarters for a more or less prolonged period, and during the height of its season, August, many thousands of excursionists are poured into it by rail and steamboat. By all it will be allowed that it is a lively place, but whether or not it be considered vulgar depends on the taste of the critic. In the pretty long list of inns above given we have included only the most frequented houses, and there are smaller ones by the score, as well as endless " lodgings " suited to all purses. The popularity of the place is well deserved. Exten- sive beach and sands, gay with all that the excursionist loves ; a fine promenade, Marine Parade ; three piers; sea and river always busy with shipping ; means of refreshment ad libitum, are its most obvious attractions. When the pleasure traffic is in full swing quiet-loving folk will do well to give Yarmouth a wide berth, but a little earlier or later they will find it a pleasant resort. The old town, whicn abuts on the river, as the new town does on the sea, has much to interest the visitor, the Quay, the Market Place, the Parish Church (the largest in England) being its chief sights. The neighbourhood affords many interesting excursions, and for the angler there are the inexhaustible fishing grounds of the rivers and Broads. A race-meeting takes place on the South Denes in July, and frequent regattas on sea, river, or Broad. It may assist the visitor in finding his way about to remember 84 YARMOUTH AND LOWESTOFT SECTION. that the town is situated on the northern portion of a peninsula, of which the sea is the eastern boundary, and the River Bure, Breydon Water, and the River Yare are the nearly parallel western limit. By turning his back on the sea and proceeding inland, he will reach the old town, and by turning his back on the Quay and river and proceeding eastward, he will arrive at the sea. There are three river bridges : one from Hall Quay, across the Yare, to South Town Station (for Lowestoft, &c.) and the road to Gorleston ; two, from North Quay to the peninsula on which is the Vauxhall Station (for Norwich, &c). Beach Station, the terminus of the Eastern and Midlands Railway (from Lynn via North Walsham) is near the shore on the north side of the town. History of the Town. At the time of the Roman occupation of Britain what is now the site of Yarmouth is believed to have been a mere sandbank in the estuary of the Yare and Bure. The set of the tides down the Norfolk coast gradually deposited matter, worn from the cliffs to the northward, until the sandbank became an island of firm ground. Here fishers' huts soon sprang up, and at the date of Domesday survey the place was already of some importance as a home of the herring fishery. The com- plicated changes in the outlet of the river to the sea are too long to be here recorded. Constantly increasing deposits heaped upon the shore by successive storms repeatedly closed the havens con- structed with great difficulty. At present the outlet of the river is about 2 miles south of the town, and dates from the end of the 16th century. It has more than once been much injured by the sea, and is only maintained in a state fit for navigation at a constant and heavy expense. The same cause which created the land on which the town stands produced the many dangerous shoals and banks off the coast. Yarmouth Roads is the name given to that part of the sea between the chief of these banks and the shore. The original settlement developed into a town on the east bank of the Yare, and in the time of Henry III. began to be surrounded by a wall with gates and towers of which some por- tions still remain. The Cinque Ports claimed over Yarmouth a not very definite jurisdiction which for several centuries was the cause of frequent quarrels, that at times reached the dimensions of almost a naval engagement. It was only in 1662 that the obnoxious jurisdiction was withdrawn. During the Civil War Yar- mouth took the side of the Parliament, but its offence was finally condoned when Charles II. visited the town in 1671. A few years afterwards (1692) William III. landed here from Flanders, and a century later (November, 1800) Nelson, after his victory of the Nile, and in 1801 after Copenhagen. In June, 1872, Yarmouth entertained the Prince of Wales at the Town Hall, and in 1882 His Royal Highness again visited the town and opened the New Municipal Buildings. Objects of interest. As most visitors at once make their way to the shore, we begin our survey at the north end of Marine TAEMOUTH. 85 Parade or Drive. Here is the Queen's Hotel, a large house opened on its new site in 1885. The conspicuous building facing down the Marine Parade is the Aquarium, which after a chequered career in its original capacity —fish being sufficiently to the fore at Yarmouth without a supply of captives in tanks— is now mainly devoted to theatrical and kindred entertainments. The quality of the amusements pro- vided is often excellent, and the house is a distinct addition to the attractions of the place. Next comes the Britannia Pier, about 700 ft. long. Here morning and evening a band plays, sea fishing is much practised, and refreshments largely consumed. Britannia Terrace, a row of good houses, is then passed, beyond which is the Coast Guard sta- tion and a camera obscura, and then the Sailors'1 Home, We are now in the neighbourhood of the best hotels. The Jetty, about 560 feet long and the oldest of the three piers, is nearly opposite the Bath Hotel, and then, passing the Royal and Victoria Hotels, we arrive at the Wellington Pier (toll Id.), about 700 ft. long, where a good band performs of an evening. The Naval Hospital, Militia Barrack*, and South Battery, are then passed, and the long drive goes onward south towards the Nelson Monument, the race course, anA the South Denes, a flat, grassy expanse, much used for net drying, extending to the mouth of the Yare. The Nelson Monument, erected in 1817, is a Doric column, surmounted by a statue of Britannia. Its total height is 144 ft., and the view to be had from the gallery immediately below the crowning figure is well worth the sixpenny fee charged and the trouble of ascending some 200 steps. The old town, which borders the Kiver Yare, is most readily reached from Marine Parade by Regent Road, opposite the Bri- tannia Pier, or by Queen's Road, a little south of Wellington Pier. In our perambulation we suppose the visitor to adopt the latter route. In this way we reach the river side near South Gate. The gate has been removed, but the line of the old wall can be traced, and South-east Tower, semi-circular and with the roof of the house into which it has been converted rising above the parapet, and Blackfriars' Tower with arcading along its flat side, are near at hand. Proceeding northward along the quay, having on the left hand the river-harbour, busy with many and various kinds of vessels and boats, the first building, recognisable by the Koyal arms over those of the town upon its front, is the Public Library and Beading Boom (admission: Is. Qd. week; 5s. month; 8s. qua/rter for family tickets, which entitle to 3 sets of books and a magazine besides use of reading room). The library contains nearly 14,000 volumes. The old Dutch clock that used to distin- guish the front of the building was removed in 1861. Next we pass the Custom House, and then those interested in Elizabethan houses should ask to be allowed to inspect the dining and drawing rooms of No. 4, South Quay. In the latter room was held the final meeting of the Parliamentary leaders to consider the fate of Charles I. Of course the proprietor (S. C. Aldred, Esq.) does not open his house to the thousands of 86 YARMOUTH AND LOWESTOFT SECTION. visitors who annually pass his door, but usually no properly accredited applicant is refused admission. By the pleasant tree- shaded Quay, alongside the wharf of the General Steam Naviga- tion Company, whose boats bring so many summer visitors, we reach the New Municipal Buildings (Mr. J. B. Pearce, of Norwich, architect), a very handsome pile of buildings opened in May, 1882, by the Prince of Wales. The main entrance is under the tower, 125 ft. high, on the north front. The principal parts calling for the visitors' attention are the fine Entrance Hall (80 ft. by 24 ft.) and Staircase, and the Assembly Eoom (100 ft. by 45 ft.). On Hall Quay, as this part of the Quay is called, is the in- teresting Elizabethan (and we may add excellent) hostelry, the Star Hotel. The front is a good specimen of flint work, and in the front room on the first floor is a handsome ceiling, and rich, but unhappily too well cared for, oak panelling. After passing South Town Bridge, we proceed a little distance along George Street, and then turn to the right along Broad Bow and Market Row to the Market Place. Wednesday and Satur- day are market days, the last named being the principal one. The large area, nearly three acres, is then a busy and picturesque scene, with long lines of awning-covered stalls. # On the way to the Parish Church, we come to Church Plain and the Fisher- men's Hospital, erected in 1702, a picturesque almshouse, built around three sides of a courtyard, in the centre of which stands a figure of Charity. The statue in the canopy over the inner gate is that of St. Peter. St. Nicholas' Church is the largest parish church in England, and has an area of 23,085 square feet—nearly equal to that of Kipon and Eochester Cathedrals. Of Bishop Herbert de Losinga's Norman church, consecrated in 1119, little or nothing remains. The present nave is Transitional Norman, about 1190, with Early English west window. The central tower arches are also Early English. The nave aisles, of very unusual size and wider than the nave itself, are Early Decorated. The chancel and its aisles aje a little later. About 1340 was begun a western aisle and front called "the Bachelors' aisle," because it was undertaken at the expense of the unmarried townsmen, but this, owing to the terrible havoo wrought in Yarmouth in 1349 by the Black Death, was never finished, and what had been built was removed. The enormous size of the church appears even greater than it really is, owing to its comparative lowness. After having been, since the Reformation till within 40 years ago, only partly used—the nave and south aisle, the rest being shut off and utterly neglected—for public worship, it is now once more in large measure restored, though much has been unwisely done, and much remains to be done wisely. Its greatest ornament is the enormous congregation which often fills it. A platform rather than a pulpit enables the preacher to command now one part now another of his audience. The organ is a noble instrument, finally enlarged by Kill in 1870, The Puritans dealt very rough measure not only YARMOUTH. 87 to the fabric but to the monuments. Brasses were removed and melted down, and monumental slabs turned into grindstones ! In the vestry in the north transept is a copy of Cranmer's Bible, fine MS. of the book 1541 ; a printed missal, Venice 1547, and a of Esther. Also an ingenious revolving book-desk. The west porch contains a curious seat, made of the jaw bone of a whale, and called the Devil's seat. A scheme is on foot to replace the present stunted spire by a "Bachelors' spire" that shall exceed in height all others and be the first building in England to greet the epitaphs will sunrise ! In the large grave -yard the collector of find many quaint but no very old inscriptions. The National School, adjoining the south side of the church- yard, occupies the refectory of a Priory (Benedictine), founded by Bp. Herbert de Losinga. Of other buildings of old Yarmouth we may mention north- West tower on North Quay (reached from Church Plain by Fuller's Hill) and as especially interesting to the architect and antiquarian, the " Tolhouse " in Middlegate Street. An outside stone staircase under a pentice leads up to the landing, protected by a projecting porch lighted with a double unglazed window, with rich cinquefoil cuspings and shafts on the jambs, and a fine series of small moulded arches below. The entrance is by a beautifully proportioned arched doorway, also shafted, with a dog- tooth moulding in the lower jambs. A similar but smaller door- way with the same decorations was dug out of a mass of plaster a few years since on the opposite side of the great chamber. It would be difficult to point to more exquisite examples of the style of the middle of the fourteenth century, the era of Westminster Abbey and the Angel Choir at Lincoln, than are afforded by these fragments. The hall or great chamber has a fine timbered roof (till 1884 hidden by a low ceiling), and the form of the old windows has been recovered. It is a happy circumstance that the building escaped its proposed destruction. The endless narrow lanes, called rows, the visitor needs no guidance to enable him to explore. He will look in vain for the peculiar vehicles, called " trollies," that formerly were specially built to traverse them. No one makes any stay at Yarmouth during the autumn with- out being initiated into the mysteries of the herring curing trade. Whether he will or no he cannot easily escape from the resulting odours. There is not much to see except large sheds full of fish threaded on long wooden skewers and so hung Up in countless numbers. These are subjected to one or more "blows," i.e., smokings according as they are to be converted into bloaters or to be dried. In the former case one "blow" suffices. A far more in- teresting feature of the trade is the landing of the fish either on the shore or at the fish wharf. 88 YAEMOUTH AND LOWESTOFT SECTION. Distances reckoned from Hall Quay. X. By tram from Southtoivn Bridge to Gorleston, 2 m. Gorleston (Hotels : Tramway, Duke's Head) is yearly coming more and more into favour with visitors. It is situated on a considerable cliff near the mouth of the Yare, overlooking the South Denes. There is a long pier which is a favourite resort in consequence of the numerous craft constantly passing it on their way up the river to Yarmouth. The Church, Decorated, contains a cross- legged brass to Sir John Bacon, temp. Edward I. 2. To Burgh Castle. This can be reached either by boat up Breydon Water to the junction of the rivers Yare and Waveney, about 4 m., or by road in 5 m. In the latter case the tram can be taken nearly to Gorleston, when the road "to Burgh Castle" turns off sharply to the right. Successive finger-posts mark the route onward. Those who drive can find farm-house stabling close to the castle, the way to which is down the lane to the right, and then by a path near the river. Burgh Castle, Koman, built a.d. 46, is generally held to be Gariononum. The ruin consists of a massive wall of flint and tiles, enclosing three sides of a rectangle. The fourth side, overlooking the steep ascent from the river, is, and apparently always has been, open. The dimensions are about 640 ft. by 320 ft., and the wall, defended on the outer side by solid circular towers, is some 14 ft. high and 10 feet thick. Some of the towers have either fallen or sunk obliquely away from the wall. Burgh Church, prettily situated, is a few yards to the north of the castle, and close to the point where the lane leaves the road. It is not of much interest, but has a round tower, the lower part of which i3 old. Notice the use made of Boman tiles, evidently taken from the castle. There is a mutilated Perpendicular font, and the stairs to the rood-loft still remain. 3. To Fritton Decoy. The easiest way to this pretty sheet of water and favourite (April to September) fishing ground, is by rail to St. Olave's Station, 6J m., whence it is about 1± rn. to Fritton Old Hall, where boats can be hired. If refreshments are needed they can be had at the Bell Inn, near St. Olave's Bridge. Fritton Church has some remains of frescoes in the nave. The distance from Yarmouth by road, turning to the right from Gorleston, just beyond the road to Burgh Castle, is 6 m. 4. To Belton, 4 m., by rail, the first station from South Town. There is a small restored Perpendicular Church, and a much fre- quented tea garden. 5. To Iiowestoft. The " Direct Line " by rail is 14£ m. During the season there are also Excursion Steamers at nominal fares. By road 9 m, (excursion breaks, Is. 6'/. single ; 2s. fid. return) through Gorleston, leaving Ronton (good modern church), SECTION MAP N?3 1 c^;--;':;,'."/^'^;' ,J: «-'W?\fe "fTii-uss EXCURSIONS TO YARMOUTH. 89 Corton (church partly in ruins), and Gunton, all from \ m. to |m. on the left. The road is well wooded and pleasantly undulated, A circuitous route is by river, 18 m. (described the reverse way, p. 96). For Lowestoft, see p. 94. 6. To Caister Castle, by road, 4 \ m. This is by the coast road running north from White Horse Plain at the West of S. Nicholas' Church. The first 2§ miles, quite uninteresting, may be got over by taking the train from the Beach Station to Caister Station, which is close to the shore at East Caister, whence a nearly straight road runs inland. In about a mile, when the road bends to the right, take field track on left. On the way, West Caister Church, in ruins, is seen on the left. Caister Castle, built about 1435 by Sir John Fastolfe, K.G., passed at his death, in 1459, to the Pastons, hence its intimate connection with the Paston letters (see p. 77). In 1469 it was besieged and taken by the Duke of Norfolk. The ruins consist of a lofty tower and part of a quadrangle. The surrounding moat and trees make up a delightful picture. 7. By road to Great Ormesby , 5 m ; Winterton, 8 m ; Martham, 11 m ; Rollesby, 13 m; Burgli St. Margarets, 14j m ; Filby, 16 m ; Yarmouth, 22 m. This round is a pleasant drive. Caister Castle can be included on the return journey by a short detour. Owing to the general flatness of the district so long a walk is hardly worth the trouble. Pedestrians proceeding up the coast to Happisburgh, Mundesley, or Cromer, if they have already seen Caister Castle, may with ad- vantage take the train from Yarmouth (Beach Station) to Hemsby, 7 m. by rail and about 1£ m. south of Winterton. Winterton and Martham can most easily be visited by taking the train to Hemsby and then walking by Winterton, West Somerton, and Martham to Martham Station, 5 m. whence by rail back to Yarmouth. If Mar- tham Broad be visited, rather more than a mile must be added. A straight road, through East Caister, leads to Great Ormesby, or Ormesby St. Margarets (Inn : Royal Oak), 5 m., turning sharply to the left just before entering the village. The church is Perpendicular, with Norman south doorway. Ormesby Park (Sir E. Lacon, M.P.) is just beyond on the left. Ormesby St. Michael's is a mile, west, and Ormesby Broads (Inn : Eels Foot) two miles ; conveyances (fare, 6 c?.) from Ormesby Station. The large sheet of water shown on the Ordnance map as including Filby, Rollesby, and Ormesby Broads, is no longer one lake. Taking the right-hand road we reach Hemsby, 7 m., where is a Station on the Eastern and Midlands line, past which the road for the next mile or so cannot be mistaken. When, after a slight descent, it forks, the right-hand branch goes to "Winter- ton (Inn : Fisherman' s Return) village and liaht-hous^ ; the left- hand one to the Church, which, with the exception of the lofty tower, has been restored by Mrs. Burneley Hume, of Winterton 90 YARMOUTH AND LOWESTOFT SECTION. Hall, and is, therefore, no longer the somewhat disreputable curiosity that it formerly was. It contains a tablet to Joseph Hume, the economist (d. 1855). The walk by the shore to Happisburgh, lint, from Wintcrton, is not re- commended. It is better to proceed inland by West Somcrton and Horsey, whence tho coast by Eccles (ruined) Church can be followed. This increases the distance about 1£ mn but avoids a marshy bit of shore. "We now turn due west for 1J m. to West Somerton, whose church has some very interesting 14th century frescoes. In the churchyard is the grave of Kobert Hales (d. 1865) "the Norfolk giant," who was 7 ft. 8 in. in height. IVTartham Broad is about § m. west; boats can be had at the staithe. The road to Martham turns south-west about J-m. from Somerton Church. XVIartham (Inn : King's Arms, good) is a large village with a green and a Kailway Station close by. The church, restored and the cbancel rebuilt, is chiefly Early Perpendicular and good. Of details, notice the fine oak doors of the south porch, the font, and a curious bench-end, showing a bell and Ave Maria. There is also some interesting old glass. Proceeding now southward, and past Eollesby Hall on the right, we reach Rollesby (Inn : Horse and Qroom). The road on the right at the cross-roads, just before reaching Eollesby, goer by Ormesby Broads to Ormesby and Caister. Avoiding branch roads, but by a somewhat winding route, we still continue southward to Burgh St. Margarets, on the Yarmouth and Acle main road, when we turn to the left, and passing Burgh St. Mary's Church (ruin), cross the causeway to Filby, with an interesting, restored, Perpendicular Church, a little to the right of the road. Filby Broad is a favourite with Yarmouth anglers, but it is only accessible by the road through East Caister, which needs no description. To visit Caister Castle (p. 89), we turn off on the right, about 2 miles from Filby Church, and rejoin the road just west of East Caister. 8. To Worwich. This route by rail, either via Keedham or by the new line via Acle, is briefly described the reverse way, p. 52. The road goes via Acle, 8| m ; Burlingham St. Peter, lOf vn ; Burlingham St: Andrew, 11 m ; Blofield, 13 m ; Thorpe, 17 m ; Norwich, 19£- m ; but it is only recommended to cyclists. Acle is described p. 92. At 2£ m. beyond it is Burlingham St. Peter ^church small; round tower, octagonal above), and a quarter of a mile further the inteiesting church of Burling-ham St. Andrews. Half-a-mile onward a road, left, leads to Xiingwood (Inn: King's Head), 1 m. from the station, where is a station on the Yarmouth and Norwich (direct) line. At Blofield there is a small inn, King's Head. Juot before reaching Thorpe, the County Lunatic Asylum is passed on the left of the road. By river. Sailing boats of all sizes can be hired at the Quay at a reasonable rate, with or without a man, or a passage can be RIVER YARE. 91 taken on one of the many trading wherries. The latter mode of transit is very pleasant if the voyager carries his own provender. The skipper is generally an obliging and intelligent exponent of matters of interest by the way. Obviously, advantage should be taken of the tide. We first sail the length of Breydon Water, along the white- posted channel, and then opposite the Roman Castle of Burgh, at the junction of the Waveney and Yare, enter the latter or right hand river, close to the mouth of which is an inn, the Barney Arms. Rail and river keep more or less close company all the way to Norwich, and after leaving, on the left, the entrance to the New Cut, that gives direct access to the Waveney and Lowestoft, we pass under the railway swing bridge at Reedham Town, 8£ m#, whose church is nearly a mile on the right. At Reedham Perry, 9J m., is a waterside inn, and just beyond it, on the left, Norton Staithe. The River Chet then flows in on that side at Hardley Cross, 10 m., which marks the division between the Yarmouth and Norwich Conservators' districts. At 12 m. a decent little inn, PearVs, is on the right, and half-a-mile further another, the Red House, at Cantiey. The river hereabouts and upwards is much patronised by anglers. Next we pass, left, the picturesque dyke running up to Xiangley Staithe (Inn : Ship). The scanty remains of Langley Abbey are near the inn, but not worth seeing. Suckenham Perry, 15 m. (Tnn), the next point reached, is another favourite anglers' rendezvous with a railway station within half-a-mile, and then, in another mile, a dyke on the left leads to Rockland Broad, a large sheet of open water, swarm- ing with fish and in the season with wildfowl. Next, at 17i m., we arrive at Coldham Hall Inn, between which and Surlingham Ferry, little more than a mile due west, the river takes a circuitous northward bend that doubles the distance. At the top of the bend is Brundall Station (about l£ m. from Coldham Hall), and in the bight of the river is the much grown-up but picturesque Surlingham Broad, by which, in a small boat, the voyager may cross to Surlingham Perry (Inn) and rejoin his craft. The scenery now improves, and the neighbourhood of the river becomes, by comparison, hilly. Surlingham St. Mary church, on the rising ground on the left, long ago became a ruin, and St. Saviour's church, nearer the stream, supplies its place. Bramerton Wood's Bad, 21 m. (Inn), picturesquely placed on the left, is next reached, and the river once more turns northward and passes on the right Postwick Hall and then Postwick Grove, a pretty wooded knoll. Whittingham (ruined) Church is then on the left, and over the railway, right, the County Lunatic Asylum. The prettiest portion of the voyage is rightly reserved for its conclusion, and as we pass up the artificial channel, the well-wooded heights of Thorpe and the high ground of Mousehold Heath suggest very different thoughts from the sad ones associated with Thorpe in the 92 YARMOUTH AND LOWESTOFT SECTION. annals of railway misadventure. It was near the bridge that crosses the old river just where we enter the cut, that on the single line of rail two trains met face to face, after dark, on the evening of Sept. 10, 1874, and 26 persons were killed. At Foundry Bridge, close to Norwich (Thorpe) Station, is a convenient place to land, on the way to which, after passing Carron Bridge, we pass the BeviVs (or Black) Tower, a remnant of the city walls. 9. By river to Acle Bridge, 12 m ; Wrozham, 25£ m; Cottls- hall, 34 m; Aylsham, 45 m. This route, except for the 13£m. between Acle Bridge and Wroxham, is more or less closely fol- lowed by the railway. The first 10 m., as far as Stokesby Ferry, where there is a waterside Inn, are very tame. Stokesby is on gently rising ground and a considerable village with a church worth a visit from the leisurely tourist. At llj m. a cut on the left runs up to to Acle Staithe, which is about half-a-mile from Acle, (Inns : King's Head, Queen's Head, Angel), a capital place to tarry at either for boating or fishing. The church, restored, is a curious mixture of old and new. The tower, round with an octa- gonal upper stage, is interesting, the thatched roof is remarkable for so large a structure, and there is a good north porch. Close by are the very scanty remains of Weybridge Priory. The whole place has a pleasant air about it, and now that it is accessible by rail, is certain to attract large numbers of anglers. Three miles N.E. of Acle (2 m. from Acle Bridge), is the little Norman Church, restored, of Clippestoy (no inn), possessing two fine brasses, and two Norman doors. On the way to it at a fork, take the left-hand road past the half ruined church of Billocky. Those making Clippesby Chturch the object of a separate excursion from Yarmouth, can take the train either to Martham or Acle, and walk the intervening 6 m. At Martham (p. 90) there is a good inn, King's Arms. Resuming our cruise at Acle Staithe in f -ra. up the main stream, we reach Acle Bridge, and have a further run of 3m. to Thurne Mouth, where the Bure, up which our course lies, makes a sharp turn to the eastward. For the Thurne Kiver, Hickling Broad &c, see p. 82. For St. Benet's Abbey, 17 on., which is the next thing to be noticed, see p. 81. Then the mouth of the River Ant, 17$ m., flow- ing out of Barton Broad, is passed on the right. For the Ant River, from Stalham downwards, see p. 81. A mile beyond the mouth of the Ant, on the opposite side of the river, a channel leads to Ranworth Broad. On the south bank of this broad is the pretty village of Ranwortli, with its church tower on the rising ground above. Ranworth Church is celebrated for its magnificent Perpendicular rood and parclose screens. Horning church tower, visible from afar, is next close by the right, and then after a bend to the southward at 21 m, is Horning Ferry (Inn). Horning village, yet another mile onward, is picturesque and Dutch-like as viewed from the stream, which now makes a sharp bend eastward, and has right and left respectively, WROXHAM. 93 Boveton Xiittle Broad, and .Decoy Broad, the latter being in the angle, round which we turn to the southward. When the river again turns eastward, Hoveton Great Broad, much frequented by black-headed gulls,* is on the right, and on the opposite side Salhouse Broad, a very pretty little lake, worth a visit if time permits. After the stream once more bends northward, we come to the entrance to Wroxham Broad, a fine sheet of water that is always beautiful under a bright sky, and especially so on the oc- casion of a regatta, or " water frolic," for which the deep water renders it suitable. Returning to the river, it is a pretty and comparatively straight course to Wroxham Bridge. Wroxham (Inns : Simpson's, Whittaker's), is a convenient centre, both for boating and angling, and as it is a railway station and junction, is much frequented. The river from this point upwards is much narrower, and no longer traverses a flat marshy district. Its course as far as Coltishall is very devious. High on the right, after a long bight, rises, conspicuous, the church of Belaug-h, and then past several picturesque bits on its bank, we reach the first lock, close to Horstead Mill, on the left, and just below Coltis- hall Bridge, 34 m. from Yarmouth by water. Coltishall (Inn : White Horse), is a large, long village, given to boat-building and malting, with a railway station half-a-mile from the river. On- ward as far as Aylsham, the river, crossed by many bridges, is only navigable to craft of very light draught. Just above Coltishall, on the left, is Horstead church, and immediately afterwards, on the right, that of Great Hautboys. The line from Wroxham to Aylsham approaches and crosses the river, just short of Buxton (Station), where is another lock. Then, through pleasant meads, we pass close to Lammas church, and so to Oxnead, once the seat of the Pastons. Of the old Hall only a wing remains, but the tomb of the famous Clement Paston (d. 1597), its founder, is in the Church. Brampton is just beyond, on the left, and then Burgh on the right. Hence to Aylsham, it would be well to take the road, as the stream makes a long bend to the east before reaching that town. For Aylsham, see p. 72. * There is also a gullery of Black Headed gulls at Scoulton Mere, near Hingham, the only other habitat of these birds in Norfolk. 94 YAEMOUTH AND LOWESTOFT SECTION. gvmtirtt. Hotels: Royal, on the Esplanade; Harbour, near the Pier; Suffolk, in London Boad ; Crown and Anchort Crown, both in High Street. Post : Del. alt. 7, 10.15 a.m., 2, 7.30 p.m. ; desp. 6, 10.40 a.m., 2, 5.15, 8.40 p.m.; South Lowestoft box closes about 20 minutes earlier. Population : 19,597. The Eailway Station is close to the Harbour and within about 300 yards of the Esplanade. Lowestoft, like Yarmouth, consists of two distinct though ad- joining towns, that to the north being the old town, or Lowestoft proper, devoted largely to the fishing trade ; that to the south, new or South Lowestoft, much of which is really in the parish of Kirkley. The new town is of course the watering place, and a very pleasant one it is and of a quieter and more aristocratic character than Yarmouth. The Esplanade along its sea front is a magnificent promenade ; the Koyal Hotel and the first-rate houses beyond it afford accommodation of the best quality. Kirkley occupies the cliff immediately south. The two towns are divided from each other by the inner and outer harbour, the channel between which is spanned by a swing bridge, near which and in London Eoad, a picturesque thoroughfare, are the principal shops. High Street, a continuation northward of London Boad, is an old steep street, connected with the north beach by many little lanes called " scores," that in a measure answer to the " rows " of Yarmouth. In it the Town Hall, built in 1860, and containing a fine modern glass window representing the Field of the Cloth of Gold—a memorial of the Anglo-French alliance in the Crimean War. It was the gift of Sir S. M. Peto, Bart., by whom much of South Lowestoft was built. Beyond the Town Hall the street still ascends to the Park and the new High Lighthouse. Of attractions, in addition to its pleasant sea front, Lowestoft boasts- two piers. The North pier chiefly for commercial pur- poses ; the South pier (toll : Id.) on the other side of the outer harbour, 1,300 feet long, and devoted to visitors, for whose en- joyment a good band plays several times daily during the season. North of the north pier, a new basin, opened in 1883, with a market adjoining has done much to make Lowestoft one of the most im- portant of our fish ports. The inner harbour, also called Lake Lothinq, is busy with shipping. It communicates at its Western End with Oalton Broad, and by that with the Biver Waveney. LOWESTOFT. 95 Of public buildings we must mention the OTew Public Hall, in London Street, but the Parish Church of St. Margaret, which is some distance to the North-West of the old town, is the only one calling for description. (Key at 25, White Horse Street.) The simplest way to it, for the stranger, is to ascend the High Street, and turn left after passing the Town Hall, and by Infirmary Plain to Church Road. It consists of nave, with aisles, chancel, south porch, with parvise and west tower with spire, and is throughout Perpendicular. Its most noticeable features are the lofty aisle wind* »ws, the fine nave arcades, and the east window (poor glass). The parvise over the porch, called the Maid's Chamber, is said once upon a time to have been inhabited by two sisters who, unwilling to enter a nunnery, made it their home, and left money to dig the " Basket" (Bess-Kate!) Wells. Beneath the chancel is a small crypt reached by a staircase in the north wall. The font, once good, has been much injured. The low west tower is supposed to be somewhat earlier than the rest of the church. The wooden spire, covered with lead, is 120 feet high. There are memorials to Whiston, the translator of Josephus ; Potter, the translator of Euripides, and vicar of Lowestoft ; and many, now forgotten, i&aval heroes. The church was robbed of its brasses long ago, and* many of them were used for the casting of the curfew bell at the Town Hall. There are three other churches and several chapels. St. John's Church is in South Lowestoft, close to the Esplanade and Marine Parade. Before we pass on to notice the Excursions in the neighbour- hood, it should be added that the bathing and sands are excellent opposite South Lowestoft, but the north beach, on which is the Low Lighthouse, is untidy, and rough walking. The combined odours of gas-works and fish do not add to its attractiveness. The Ness, as the point close to the Low Lightl^use is called, is the eastern- most land in Great Britain. The Denes extend about 2jm. northward from the Upper Lighthouse, and afford a breezy stroll. Xirklty (Hotel: Royal Oak), hi, south, is now a suburb of Lowestoft. Its recommendations are that it is quieter, and, from being situated on the cliff, that it commands a wide expanse of sea. Against these must be set the distance from the amusements of Lowestoft, and from the starting point far. Yar- mouth and the excursions to be made by rail. ftummw itfsxa %QteMidU 1. To Oulton Broad, 1\ m. by rail to Oulton Station ; 2\ m. by road. This is a very picturesque lake, always gay during the season with numberless yachts and boats. It is well stocked with fish, and is open to the angler, who can hire a comfortable boat for 2s. a day, and obtain bait for his prey and himself either at the Wherry Hotel or The Commodore. Of these the first named provides good quarters for yachtsman or angler. : 96 YAKMOUTH AND LOWESTOFT SECTION. 2. To Yarmouth, (a) By rail, 14ira. Return fares, 2s., Is. 8d., Is. 4d. The so-called " direct " route runs inland by the Waveney valley to St. Ola^e's Station, passing on the way close to Somer- leyton and Herringfleet, for which see p. 97. It then turns north- east and goes past Belton, church on right, and across The Marsh to Yarmouth. (b) By road. Excursion breaks (single Is. 6d., return 2s. 6d.) run regularly during the season. The route is prettily undulated and fairly wooded, but passes no place of note on the way. It enters Yarmouth by Gorleston. (c) By sea. Steamers run frequently, but not at fixed times, during the season. (d) By river, 16 m. from Mutford Bridge. Boats can be had at Alutford Bridge (Inns: Wherry, Commodore), near Oulton Broad Station, l^m. from Lowestoft. After leaving Oulton Broad, a dyke leads to the Waveney. There is nothing to remark till Somerleyton (p. 97) is beyond the rail on the right, and 'then we come to an awkward railway bridge. Herringfleet (p. 97) is on the rising ground, right, and is inn Duke's Head) river. there an ( a short distance from the After the next railway bridge is passed, there is a choice of routes either left, by the "New Cut " to the Yare and then down that river; or right, by the Waveney. There is little choice as to distance, as the former is only about 1 mile the longer course. The direction of the wind will naturally settle the matter for sailing boats. By the New Cut a toll of Is. is chargeable for opening Haddiscoe Bridge. By neither of the routes is there anything to remark until they converge again just under the walls of Burgh Castle, p. 88. Those who take the Waveney channel will find an inn, The Bell, close to St. Olave's Bridge, which is the nearest point for Fritton Decoy, p. 88. From Burgh Castle the course traverses the length of Breydon Water. 3. To Beccles, by rail, 8 m. This route requires no description, as beyond a wide view across the marshes of the Waveney valley there is nothing to be seen. By river, 10 m. from Mutford Bridge. By Oulton Broad and Oulton Cut we reach the Waveney, and turn sharply up stream to the left, passing on the right in the course of the next mile the telescopic-looking church-tower of Burgh St. Peter's. On both banks the river is bordered by marshes beyond which rise gentle undulations that relieve the scene of its dreariness. At Seven-mile Car the higher ground ap- proaches the stream on the right, but only to fall away again till near the end of the voyage. Beccles church tower on high ground is seen away over the marshes long before we reach the railway bridge on the Yarmoath line. Then past the pretty Sayers's Grove we make for Beccles Bridge. BECCLES—SOMEELEYTON. 97 Beccles (Hotel: King's Head) is a pleasant town of about 5000 inhabitants, well placed on rising ground on the south bank of the Waveney. The main street runs up from the bridge on the right to the church, which is Perpendicular and has its bell- tower detached and unfinished just as it was left in the middle of the 16th century. The south porch is fine, and has a parvise with a squint commanding the inside of the church, of which the distinguishing feature is the spacious nave. About a mile from Beccles Bridge, along the Norwich road, is Gilllngham, where are two churches close together. One, All Saints', has only the tower remaining, but the other, St. Mary's, is Norman, and very interesting. 4. To Gunton, 2|ra; Corton, 4*ra; Hopton, 5fm. Follow the Yarmouth road, about f mile from the Park, and take the lane on the right. Gunton Church, originally Norman, but with later alterations has a low round tower, and is pleasantly girdled with elms. Gunton Hall, hard by, is the seat of B. Fowler, Esq. To reach Corton, we may either return to the main road, and in two miles onward turn to the right, or take a lane from Gunton to the cliffs and follow them northward. Corton village is close to the shore, but the church, partly in ruins and picturesque with ivy, is on high ground l-mile inland. The tower, 90 ft. high, is a sea-mark. The sea at Corton has eaten away some 40 acres of land since 1850. Hopton Church is i ra. east of the Yarmouth road, at a point 5 ra. from Yarmouth, and 11 ra. by lane from Corton Church. It has been re-built. 5. To Somerleyton Hall, 6 ra ; Herring-fleet, 7 ra. These distances are by road. Somerleyton Station is a good l£ ra. from each of them. The road passes St. Margaret's Church. At the first junction of roads take the right hand one, and at the next fork that to the left. At the cross roads, Jm. onward, keep straight on and then take the first turn to the right. The ivy-clad ruin of Flixton Church is soon passed, right, and on the other side Flixton De- coy. The grounds of Blundeston House are then on the right. At the second cross-roads, after passing Flixton, the turn right leads in J ra. to Blundeston Church, with round tower. Blundeston rookery will be recognised as the birthplace of David Cop- perfield. The road to the left at these cross-roads leads to Somerleyton Church, which is in Somerleyton Park, and has been re-built, but contains the old screen. Somerleyton Park, about 300 acres (open to the public on Wednesdays, Hall not shown), is exceedingly beautiful and has a fine avenue of limes. The Hall, of red brick with stone dressings, built by Sir Morton Peto, is as imposing without as it is gorgeous within. The model village and schools are on a par with the mansion. Herrlngfleet, about half a mile westward, has an interesting Norman church that belonged to St. Olave's Priory. The round tower is well known for the curious windows in its upper portion. Guide, VI. H :; 98 YAEMOUTH AND LOWESTOFT SECTION. The return, if driving, may be varied by proceeding by Ashby and Lound to the Yarmouth and Lowestoft road, about 16 m. out and home. The pedestrian can take the train either at Somer- leyton or St. Olave's Station, 1& m. by straight road from Herring- fleet. 6. To Southwold : by rail vid Beccles and Halesworth, 25 m ; by sea dbt. 11 m. Steamers daily in summer. By road {via Kes- singland 5 m.),12m. The route by rail is described the reverse way as far as Hales- worth, pp. 45, 51, and thence to Southwold, p. 99. The sea route has no features along the shore calling for description. The road route passes through Pakefield, 2 m., a small fishing place coming more and more into favour, and then gradually trends inland by Kesslngland, 5 m., which is a considerable village. The church, with a good tower, is between the village and the sea nearly i-mile on the left. Soon the road drops to a small sluggish stream and then ascends, passing a roadside inn, and for more than a mile skirts the ample woods of Benacre Hall to the village of Wrentham, 8 m. Here we quit the main road and take that to the left to South Cove. The dyke that empties itself into Eastern Broad close to the shore is crossed at Potters Bridge, and in two miles further we reach Southwold, p. 100. There are inns at Pakefield, Kessingland, and Wrentham but Walnut Tree Inn, at Benacre, marked on the Ordnance map, is closed. 7. To Norwich vid Beedham, 23| m. by rail. For Norwich, see pp, 35-44. 8. To Haddlscoe by rail, 7| m. Haddiscoe Cliurcli (restored) is 2 m. from the station by a direct road running south-west. It is of great interest, and has much good Norman work, e.g., the round tower, fine North door with niche over, containing a figure of an ecclesiastic. The font and remains of frescoes should also be examined. 9. To Bung-ay, vid Beccles, by rail, 14J m ; or by river (con- tinuation of excursion 3), 18 ra. from Mutford Bridge. The rail from Beccles follows more or less closely the north side of the Waveney valley, but requires no detailed description. The river route is pretty, but very indirect, and entails the pas- sage of three locks. Bung-ay (Hotel: King's Arms) is situated on a narrow isthmus of a peninsula, formed by a large loop of the Biver Waveney. The station is to the west, near the river, but the town itself occupies a ridge of considerable elevation. The objects of interest are (a) The Castle, of which the two round towers and some portions of walls remain. They are in the grounds of the hotel and date from the time of Edward I. (b) St. Mary's Church (restored), with magnificent Perpendicular tower, (c) Holy Trinity Church, with round tower, the lower part of which has been considered Saxon, (d) The large printing-works of Messrs. Clay. SECTION MAP N? 4 SOUTHWOLD AND ALDEBURGH SECTION. The route from London to Halesworth is described pp. 45, 49. Halesworth to Southwold, 8* m. Second class through tickets are not issued to Southwold, as the branch trains are only first and third. Halesworth (Hotel: Angel), is an old-fashioned town, that wakes up once a week on market-day, and that, in addition to a fairly interesting, Perpendicular church, has one or two good timbered houses. It is, however, not a place to tempt the ordinary tourist to break his journey. The line to Southwold is a miniature one, with a gauge of only 3 feet. The "cars" are 1st and 3rd class " composites,'' with doors at the ends, and a gangway down the middle, by which the guard is enabled to collect tickets in the course of the journey. It must be added, too, that in warm weather these cars are like hot-houses, from the superabundance of glazing. Between Halesworth and Southwold there are stations at Wenhaston (for Blytheford, small church with some Norman and Early English work), Blythburgh, and Walberswick, at which the trains stop only when required to do so by passengers. The tiny engine takes matters leisurely, as the speed is not allowed to exceed 15 m. an hour. As far as Blythburgh, 4£ ra., except when the Blythe overflows the valley, there is nothing to remark. The country that far is fairly wooded, and, though not ugly, cannot be called interesting. Blythburgh (village inn) has a fine church, restored. It is well seen from the line but should be visited. Its chief features are the graceful tower and lofty clerestory. The roof is good and there is a fair screen and other interesting wood-work, In general character it resembles South- wold. Close to the line, on the same side, are a few fragments of a priory, founded early in the 12th century. The line now makes a bend north-west, and with the river on the left and fir-woods on the right the scene is pleasant. Next comes a common with heather, bracken and furze and more Scotch firs. Walberswick Church soon appears on the right, and then we cross the river to a district of low dyke -divided meadows, followed by another common, after which Southwold Church is seen on the right hand. The station is about half-a-mile from the sea. 100 SOUTHWOLD AND ALDEUUlittH SECTION. jfouttawttf. Inns: Crown} Royal; Swan. Post: Arr. abt. 7.15 a.m., 2.15 p.m.; dep. abt. 10.34a.m., 7.55 p.m. Telegraph Office. Population: 2,111. Southwold, without doubt, is the least obtrusive of all the East Coast watering-places that are accessible by rail. It consists chiefly of one long street, extending from the station to the cliff, which here for about half-a-mile rises abruptly from the marshes of the Blythe. The sea-front is accordingly short, but there are some pleasant houses a little back from the cliff. The beach is of shingle, among which agates, carnelians, &c, may be found. Northward it is given up* to fishermen's stores and gear ; south- ward, a short promenade leads to Gun Hill, where is a battery of six guns, given to the town by the Duke of Cumberland, who put in here on his return from Culloden, where he had retaken them from Charles Edward, who had captured them from Sir John Cope at Preston Pans. Hereabouts are the best of the lodging houses. Just beyond Gun Hill are the bathing machines, and then more fishing- boats and gear, and a path leads onward along the shore by which we can make our way to the mouth of the Eiver Blythe. The only other object of interest is the Church. This is Perpendicular, and has a fine tower, 100 feet high. In the walk round it, the most noticeable features are the clerestory of 18 windows, answer- ing to the 9 bays below, the curious figures along the string course over the aisle windows, and the beautiful flint and stone arcading. The north door has in one spandrel a rose, and in the other crowned lions, and the west door has curious figures, much de- faced. Observe the graceful niches on either side of the west window. The south porch, with groined roof and parvise over, is very good. Observe outside the monogram 8. Maria. Inside the church the effect of the roof, unbroken by a chancel arch, is grand, and the carving of the quaint corbels and hammer- beams excellent. Only part of the once fine screen remains, but there are some good panels, still retaining, in a fair state of preservation, their paintings and gilding. The carved pulpit, richly illuminated, is curious. In the chancel, the roof of which is coloured, observe the stalls and sedilia canopies. The glass of the east window and of some others is modern and pleasing. The man and bell in the north aisle originally per- tained to the clock. Owing to the wasting away of the headland of Easton Bavents to the north, and of the shore about Dunwich, what is now a WALBEESWICK. 101 nearly straight piece of coast was once Southwold or Sole Bay, where, in 1672, occurred the great sea-fight between the allied English and French fleets, and the Dutch, commanded by De Buyter, which crippled both sides. Distances reckoned from the Green. 1. To Walberswick, If m., south. This is the port of South- wold, and is at the mouth of the Blythe. It can be reached either by the beach or along the bank bounding the town marshes. There is a ferry across the river. The distance we have given is to the church, which is |-mile beyond the ferry. At the mouth of the river are two wooden piers. The ferry and Walberswick across the stream compose a picture that has been often painted. The little quay, the red-tiled roofs of the quaintly grouped houses, no two of the same height, the sprinkling of foliage, the fine church tower beyond, and the ferry as the immediate foreground to the scene, are delightful. When we land on the far side we may find endless subjects for the sketch-book, either in the village itself or by the river. The church, with the exception of the tower which is very graceful, is an ivy-clad ruin. It must formerly have been as handsome as it is now picturesque. 2. To Covebithe Church, 4£ m. north. This is another pic- turesque ruin. The distance given is that by road. Just after crossing a dyke, called Buss Creek, turn to the right and the same at the next junction. Two miles from the start brings us to Potters Bridge, over the cut that runs down to Easton Broad. About \ -mile onward turn to the right and maintain a general direction north till cross-roads are reached, about 3| m., then once more turn to the right, and the church is about i-mile onward. By the coast the distance is about the same, but the time required half as long again. The path soon ends, and the beach is very rough walking. Easton Broad, a considerable expanse of fresh water, is about half-way, and a little beyond it is another and much smaller grown-up broad. In another fm. a lane runs inland to the church. The Anchor Inn of the Ordnance map is closed, and there is no other. 3. To Dunwich, by road, 9£ m.; by the coast, 4jm. The road runs inland to Blythburgh (p. 99), where it crosses the river close to the station, and takes a direction nearly due south for about 2 m. Then turning south-east Dunwich is reached 2£ m. onward. By the coast via Walberswick, see Excursion 1. Thence, if the tide be out, the sands are fairly easy walking, but at other times there is nothing for it but to get along as best you may, now over pebbles, and now by the edge of the marsh. 102 SOUTHWOLD AND ALDEBURGH SECTION. funwiclt. Inn : Barne Arms, comfortable ; nearest Railway Sation, Darsham, 5£ m., where at the Stradbroke Arms a conveyance can be had. Post: Del. abt. 7 a.m., desp. 7.45 p.m.; letters should have Yoxford S.O. Suffolk, added to the address ; Telegraph office, Yoxford; Porterage, 6s. Dunwich has a long history. The most recent conjecture iden- tifies it with Sitomagus, a town of the Iceni, and that it was a Roman post is certain from the remains that have been found. About 630, Felix, a Burgundian priest, was consecrated and sent by Honorius, archbishop of Canterbury, to convert the still heathen East Anglians. Felix fixed his see at Dunwich, at which the river Blythe then had its outfall. For two hundred years it continued to be the seat of a bishopric and grew to be a con- siderable town, but early in the 11th century the sea swept away its Eoyal and the Episcopal palaces, and half its lands. Under the Normans it recovered from this disaster, and by the reign of Henry II. had become an important port with several churches, religious houses, &c. Much damage was again done by the sea in 1287, but the crowning disaster came in 1329, when the port was hopelessly choked by a terrific storm, and some 400 houses swal- lowed up by the waves. What was left was, however, still a town of sufficient size to entitle it to be represented in Parliament, and from the time of Edward III. down to 1832 it had its members. But since 1329 its annals have been only those of its destruction. Four churches and many houses were swept away in the latter half of the 16th century, and the next fifty years saw it reduced still further. In 1702 yet another church fell into the sea, and after a great storm in 1740 the sole remaining one was dismantled so that at least its bells and lead might be saved. Since then, apparently little change has taken place in the coast-line here- abouts, as the ruined church is still standing on the verge of the cliff. But Dunwich is not after all the melancholy spot that the fore- going story would lead one to expect, though at every turn there is something to recall its former prosperity. It now consists of two distinct hamlets, St. James 1 Street, and High Street, about a third of a mile apart. The former is a little distance from the shore, on the edge of the marshland, the latter on higher ground to the south-west, at the back of Temple Hill, and protected by a belt of trees. In both hamlets the farm houses and cottages are oomely and overrun with creepers and fruit trees, and St. James 1 LEISTON ABBEY. 103 Street has a small modern church and school, as well as the "Hotel." Nearer the sea is the Coast Guard Station, and a group of wooden boatsmen's houses, and on the shingle are drawn up half a dozen fishing boats. Of old Dunwich there is the ruined church of All Saints on the edge of the cliff, and close to it, in a field, the extensive ruins of the Grey Friars Monastery, of which the principal item is the late Perpendicular western gateway. The crumbling walls are everywhere much over- grown with ivy. Of St. James' Hospital, a portion of the Norman apse of the chapel is still to be seen. The Town Hall is now a cottage, and enquiry should be made for an old Dutch iron chest, that has long been the depository of the borough records. Dunwicn House, picturesque and well sheltered by flourishing woods, adjoins High Street. If a sprawl on the turf under the shadow of old walls, if a breezy common and pure air, if a dip in or sail over the sea, if rest from work, or quiet for work are what you want, our advice is, try Dunwicn. It is just 100 miles from London, and only quiet Southwold is in sight. There is no risk on your return from a ramble of being greeted by a swarm of noisy excursionists, for there is nothing at Dunwich that such folk love. Saxmundham to Aldeburgh, 8f m. by rail. At Leiston Station which is half way, Leiston Abbey is seen about | ra. to the north. About 1182 Eanulph de Glanville, Grand Justiciary of England, founded here a house of Pre- monstratensian (or Norbertine) Canons. He endowed it with the manor of Leiston, and buildings were erected about half-a-mile east of the present ruins. For some reason unknown that site was condemned in the middle of the 14th century, and the present one chosen. The new buildings had, however, hardly been com- pleted, when, in 1389, they were burnt down, and consequently the remains now to be seen are nearly all a little later than the date of the fire. The choir and transepts of the church are still standing, with chapels on either side of the former. That on the north is roofed, and used for farm purposes. Its east window has a few fragments of tracery, and there are two arches its side. on south Notice the ornamental flint and stone work on . the buttresses and walls of the choir. The cloisters were on the south side of the nave, and their exterior walls now enclose a garden, on the south side of which was the refectory, whose fine west window is seen from the railway. West of the cloisters is part of a small tower, built of brick, and apparently of late 15th century date. Leiston Church tower affords a wide view, including Dunwich and Orford. There are large iron works at Leiston for the manufacture of agricultural machinery, &c. Between Leiston Station and Aldeburgh there is nothing that calls for remark. ; 104 SOUTHWOLD AND ALDEBUBGH SECTION. §Mttatv0tt. Hotels : White Lion ; Brudenell Family (private) Post : Del, abt. 8 a.m., 1.45 p.m. ; desp, abt, 11.39 a.m., 7.40 p.m. Telegraph Office. Post-town : Saxmundham. Station about \ mile from town. *Bus meets all trains in summer. Between the station and the sea is a slight eminence on which are a few good villas and the church. At the seaward base of this hill is the town, some half-a-mile in length, of two parallel streets, High Street and Back Street. The sea front, which may be described as one side of Back Street trying to turn right-about- face, is very irregular and picturesque. Back and fronts are jumbled together with interstices of little bits of turf. Year by year these green spots are disappearing, snug little lodging houses being erected upon them, overlooking Crag Path, the promenade that extends from north to south nearly two miles. The only block of houses near the sea that approximates to the ordinary type of seaside villa, is Brudenell Terrace, at the south end of the path and on the site of an old fort. It is impossible to lose one's way at Aldeburgh, and so no guidance is needed. Besides the picturesque sea-front, the steep beach and brilliant bathing machines are the most prominent objects. The old Moot Hall has been restored, but is still interesting and dates from the 16th century. It is now partly used as a lock-up. There is a Public Reading Room and small Library (admission : 10s. season ; 3s. 6d\ month ; Is. week) on the Crag Path, from which juts out an un- finished pier. Aldeburgh was in the 16th century a fishing port of some im- portance, and in 1571 began to return members to Parliament. About that date, too, it began to be in danger from the inroads of the sea, though it was not till about the middle of the last century that it seriously suffered. Then a whole street was washed away at once, and houses, ten or a dozen at a time, were subsequently engulfed. It has, owing to the development of the pleasure traffic, partially recovered itself during the last thirty years, and now seems to thrive in a small way. It is naturally proud of having been the birth-place of George Crabbe, the poet, who was born at a house long ago swept away by the sea, Dec. 24, 1754. SIZEWELL. 105 Orabbe's father was a salt-master, and the poet was in early years an apothecary here. Later on he took orders and became curate of the parish church. He died at Trowbridge, of which he became incumbent in 1814, at the age of 78. The church is of little interest. It has a good south porch, a Jacobean pulpit, and one of the crudest of east windows. The roof was by Dowsing's orders robbed of " 20 cherubims " in 1643. There is a monumental bust of Crabbe by a local sculptor. The view up and down the coast from the Crag Path is pleasant enough, but the neigbourhood is quite devoid of beautiful scenery. The river Aide approaches on the south to within about a quarter of a mile of the town at Slaughden Quay, and Aldeburgb Sffere, a short distance inland from that point, is a fine expanse of water and a good place for boating. On the south side of this mere, about 4£ m. from the Quay, is Iken Cliff, which is a favourite excursion. The Aide does not enter the sea at Slaughden Quay, but there turns abruptly south-west and calls itself the Ore. Its mouth is at Hollesley Bars, about 10 miles down the coast from the Quay. (Bunxmm ftm $JMrag|. 1. To leistou Abbey (a) by road, 5 J m; (6) by rail to Leiston Station, 4§ m., and walk, f m. The road runs straight and nearly due north from Aldeburgh Station to Leiston Station, and the ruins are about | m. onward just left of the road. (For the Abbey, see p. 103.) They can be visited in the course of the drive to Dunwich, see next excursion. At Leiston is a large iron foundry. (a) by road, m. (b) the coast, 2. To Dunwich 11J ; by 8j m. (a) By road, ll£ m. This is the same as that for Leiston Abbey !see above). Just past the Abbey on the left is Theberton House Sir W. Eose). The road for Dunwich turns to the right, and thence onward is across breezy but featureless commons. coast, (6) Bv the 8} m. ; 3J hrs. The Crag Path ends in a rough path, which leads to a foot-bridge over the outlet of an insignificant tidal mere, after which we reach Thorpe, 2 to., a little fishing village, sheltered from the sea by a broad beach. Thorpe Ness, a low sandy point, belies its name and is no longer a ness or nose. At 4 m. is Sizewell (Inn), a curious combination of fishermen's huts and little villas. In summer it is a favourite spot for camping out. The beach and sand hills are for some distance onward a mere band, separating a large dyke-divided tract of marsh-land from the sea. Just before reaching Sluice, at the end of a large dyke, a short distance on the left, are the trifling ruins of the cell to which Abbot Grene, of Leiston, retired as a hermit in 1531. The windmills for pumping purposes recall the fen districts of 106 SOUTHWOLD AND ALDEBUKGH SECTION. Cambridge and Lincolnshire. The few cottages here must in winter, what with marsh and sea, have a watery time of it. The top of a broad sea-wall, or rather bank, can now be followed till we ascend to a breezy common, with a considerable Coast Guard station, a little back from the low cliff. It is a pleasant bit of walking over the heather, and the cliff can be followed all the way to Dunwich, or we can descend to the shore, and, if the tide be out, walk along the sands for the last f -mile. For Dunwich, see p. 102. 3. To Orford, by road. 11£ m. ; by river, 5 m. from Slaughden Quay ; by sea 7£ m. ; by the coast 7 m. Of these many ways of visiting Orford by far the easiest is that by river, taking a boat at Slaughden Quay. In this way, the visitor lands at the quay within half-a-mile of Orford Castle. If he prefer to go by sea he can also visit the Lighthouses, but neither of them has any special feature of interest, though both are fine ones. The Low light is that to the north, and it is a long |'-m. from the High light. The objection to the sea-route is that it lands one some 2 m. from Orford and involves a tramp across the marshes, and being ferried across the river. If those who arrive by sea like to return by river, boats can be hired at Orford Quay. The walk by the coast to the lighthouses is very dreary, and is open to the same objection. The road is a pleasant drive, especially during the latter part of the journey, but it is very in- direct. The first 5 m. are straight inland to Snape, where the church should be seen. Nothing worth looking for remains of the small Augustinian priory, founded in 1099. It was a little to the right of the road by which, turning to the left at Snape, we pro- ceed to Snape Bridge, 6 m. [The little branch line that ends here is only for goods' traffic] Then where the road forks, we take the left-hand branch, that is, keep straight on, and ascend to Blaxhall Heath and on to Ilcen Heath. There is a good deal of wood as we near Sudbourne Hall (Marquess of Hertford), off the road on the right. Orford Castle is itself an unmistakeable guide to our destination. Orford (Inn : Crown and Castle) is but the ghost of its former self. When what is now the river was a harbour open to the sea, it was a port of some importance, and the Castle was accord- ingly built to defend it The only part of the Castle now stand- ing is the polygonal Keep (90 ft. high and 54 ft. diameter), with equi-distant square flanking towers three in number. It dates probably from about 1150, and is built of Caen stone below and of flint and limestone above. Two ditches and a wall (only a bit left) defended it. The entrance, which is askew, is on the first floor, and is reached by an outside stair. Over the entrance was a chapel, and below it dungeons. Of the keep itself the lowest stage was used for stores, the next for soldiers and retainers, and the one above that, now made into a room for the use of visitors, was the principal chamber. In each case the thickness of the walls is used for side chambers, and on the third floor was BUTLEY—FBAMLINGHAM. 107 a kitchen in one of the square towers. Ascending to the top of the keep we pass the entrance to a dovecot. The view from the windows of a little chamber at the top of the south-east tower is a very wide one. Southward, 20 m. away, is the tower on the Naze and Harwich spire ; nearer at hand we trace the course of the river Ore ; eastward rise the lighthouses ; north- ward is Aldeburgh, and to the left of it on the horizon we just catch sight of Southwold Church. The Church, with the exception of the ruined chancel, is Decorated and worth seeing. The font—its base supported by lions and bearded heads—has on its west side a representation of God the Father holding a crucifix. The Chancel ruins are Norman, and the pillars and arches are richly ornamented. Bishop Herbert de Losinga, who began Norwich Cathedral, was born at Orford. Butley Priory may be conveniently visited from Orford, from which, by way of Butley Ferry, it is distant about 4j ra. Leave Orford by road running south-west, and after passing a hamlet, at 1J m., turn to the right to the ferry, i-mile. After crossing the Butley River a tortuous lane leads to Capel St, Andrew, where turn to the right and then, after crossing Stone Bridge, at a fork take the left-hand road. The abbey is then close at hand. The Priory was founded in 1171 by Ranulph de Glanville, the founder of Leiston Abbey (p. 103). The site is now occupied by the Abbey Farm. A barn is apparently a portion of the old work, but the farm house is merely built of old materials. One perfect arch and some fragments of pillars remain. Near the arch is a stone coffin found many years ago close by. The gate-house, now called 11 The Priory," has been much altered in the process of convert- ing it into a residence for the vicar of the parish. It is Decorated, and has over the entrance 35 shields of arms, all, except one, in good preservation. Butley Church, 1 m. north, is unsightly, half thatched, half tiled, but has an oak chancel screen and an old font. The inside of the church has been restored. 4. To Framling-ham, by rail 22 ra. ; 1 hr. ; changing at Sax- mundham and Wickham Market. The mid-day train from Alde- burgh allows of about 3J or 5§ hrs. being spent at Framlingham according as the visitor reaches Aldeburgh on his return about 6 or 8 p.m. Framlingham (Inn : Crown and Horses) is a small town with a very long history. The things to be seen are the picturesque ruins of the castle and the fine church containing several monu- ments of great interest. The Castle (fee to the Hall Keeper, optional). Possibly before, certainly soon after, the Norman Conquest there was a great stronghold on this site. The present ruins date principally from the reign of Edward I., and chiefly consist of the enclosing wall, with turrets at intervals, all overgrown with abundant ivy. There are portions of the drawbridge and keep, and other ruins outside this main wall. The Duke of Norfolk (who as Earl of Surrey had 108 SOUTHWOLD AND ALDEBURGH SECTION. defeated James IV. at Flodden) built the main gateway and made other alterations. The court-house is somewhat later still. An upper room is now a Sunday school, and a large room (the old dining hall) is used for public meetings. From under the gallery of the hall a staircase leads to the top of the walls. The deep moat which surrounds the castle is now a picturesque dell filled with greenwood. It was supplied with water in former days by damming up the little stream in the valley on the west. The Church is a very fine one, partly Decorated, but chiefly Perpend., with a lofty Perpend, tower. Its great interest is its monuments : (In the north aisle) 1. Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey (the poet), beheaded Jan. 19, 1547. The effigies of the Earl and his wife are recumbent, and on either side are kneeling figures of their two sons and three daughters. (On the north side of the chancel) 2. Henry Fitzroy, Duke of Richmond, natural son of Henry VIII., d. 1536, aged 17. He had been betrothed to Surrey's sister Margaret, and was his close friend. Notice the Old Testament subjects around the frieze. On this side of the chancel are also the effigies of the two wives of the 4th Duke of Norfolk, Surrey's son, executed for his intrigues with Mary Stuart (June 2, 1572). (On the south side of the chancel). 4. The 3rd Duke of Norfolk, Surrey's father, whose life was saved, after his execution had been ordered, by the death of Henry VIII. Effigies of the Duke and his wife. The tomb is of renaissance work, and has niches containing our Lord, the Apostles, and Moses. 5. Sir Robert Hitcham (d. 1636), who devised the Castle and the advowson of the Church to Pembroke Coll., Oxford. A slab of black marble supported by four angels of alabaster. SECTION MAP N? 5 *~».,-.^,,^: ^4r :,^l,iu,„n,- r ': „ia , " 109 HARWICH, D0VERC0URT, AND FELIXSTOWE SECTION. Ipswich to Felixstowe, by rail, 16| m. This route leaves the main line for Yarmouth at Westerfield Junction, where it turns south-east, and about 2 m. onward crosses the Woodbridge Road at a considerable elevation that gives a pleasant view of suburban Ipswich. At Derby Eoad Station is only a widely scattered Suburb, and then we cross Nacton Heath to Orwell Station, prettily placed amid plantations. The whole route from Derby Eoad is close to and parallel with the high road, on which, as we near our destination, are, on the left, the villages of Trimley and Walton. A saltmarsh, the bane of Felixstowe in winter, marks the end of the journey. The line continues 1 m. beyond Felixstowe Station to Felixstowe Pier, whence steamers run frequently to Harwich and Ipswich. Ipswich to Harwich (11 m.) and Felixstowe (Pier) by river, 12 J m. Circular tickets are issued by rail and river, and the round can be made in either direction. The Orwell is very picturesque at or near high water. At other times the channel is flanked by vast stretches of ooze, the ugliness of which the scenery on the banks—gentle undulations of wood and meadow—is unequal to redeeming. The steamers start from the landing stage adjoining the Promenade. At first the objects on either hand savour more of commerce than of beauty, as we pass on the right the manu- facturing suburb of Halifax. Inland from Wherstead Bridge, on the same side, is Stoke Park (Lord Gwydyr), and a few yards from the river bank the Ostrich Inn, dear to Ipswich holiday folk. Beyond this, "Wherstead Hall is seen among the trees. Here, on the left bank, is Pond Ball (farm), that recalls Margaret Catchpole's bare-backed ride for the doctor, and then on the right rises Freston Tower. It is of brick, in six stages, with pinnacles above, and dates from the time of Elizabeth. We are now enter- ing on the prettiest part of the voyage, the soft scenery of which Gainsborough loved. Park Bight is the name given to the bend of the river that is flanked, right, by the woods of Woolver- stone Park, and, left, by those of Orwell Park. The Gardens at Woolverstone, with delightful lawns and glades, can be visited in the absence of the family. The Obelisk, a stone column with bristling gilt globe at the top, was erected in 1793, to the memory 110 HAEWICH AND FELIXSTOWE SECTION. of Charles Berners, Esq., to whose family the whole of the right bank of the river belongs. Orwell Park (Col. Tomline) is famous for its pictures, among which are three by Murillo. (The house is not shown, except by special order of the proprietor.) Opposite Orwell Park is the village of Pin Mill (2 inns), where passengers are landed by a small boat. Then on the left is Broke Hall, formerly the residence of Admiral Broke, who received a baronetcy as a reward of his gallant fight, when captain of the " Shannon,'' with the U.S. frigate " Chesapeake," in 1813. Thence onward, there is nothing to notice till, rounding Collimer Point, Harwich comes in sight. Trimley village is away on the left, and Shotley Church on the right. Harwich, with its low houses, shipping, and tall church spire, is now a picturesque object across the mouth of the Stour. On the point dividing the two rivers are two martello towers, and on the east side of Orwell Haven, as the junction of the rivers is called, is a fort. The pier at Harwich is close to the Hotels and a short distance from the station. For Harwich, see p. 114. The rest of the voyage is merely across the river to Felixstowe Pier, seaward of which are Land- guard Fort and Lighthouse. At Felixstowe Pier Station is the terminus of the single line from Ipswich, and close by is the Pier Hotel. Felixstoive Station is |-m. by rail, and the town another mile. Pedestrians can, in f-m. from the pier, by Carr Eoad, reach Manor Terrace, facing the sea and sand dunes. Thence it is about a mile to Felixstowe sea-front. itlixfttim. Hotels : Bath (good) clo*e to the sea, about 2 m. north-east from Station ; Station ; Ordnance. Post : Del. 7 a.m., 3.35 p.m; desp. 11.45 a.m., 7.45 p.m. Tele* graph Station. Post-town : Ipswich. This place consists of a row of shops, The structure so named is at the mouth of the Orwell, opposite Harwich. The Cliurcli, dedicated not to St. Felix but to Saints Peter and Paul, has been restored, but is of small interest. The tomb in the graveyard of Sir John S. Login (d. 1863), erected by 4 his ward ' Maharajah Dhuleep Singh, should be noticed. The view from the cliff or from Eastward Ho ! as a newly laid out " estate " is called, is a pleasant one towards Harwich and Dover- court. The growth of Felixstowe to a considerable watering place is probable enough, owing to the near presence of Ipswich, but it can hardly become a very popular resort with visitors from a dis- tance. With exception of that along the sands, about 2£ m. to Languard Point where there is a fort and rough jetty, the walks are few and dull. At Walton, 1§ m., and Trimley, 3 m., along the Ipswich road, there are churches of little interest ; at Trimley two in one graveyard, of which St. Mary's is Decorated and said to have been originally built by Thomas of Brotherton who erected the existing castle at Framlingham, p. 107. 1. To Harwich and Dovercourt, p. 114, by steamer. 2. To Ipswich, by rail or river, pp. 109, 110, where both routes are described the reverse way. During the summer there is an omnibus. The drive above mentioned, 12m., after passing Trimley, is very pleasant, being either well wooded, or across the furzy common of Nacton Heath. tJpwtcfc Hotels: White Horse, in Tavern Street; Golden Lion, on Cornhill; Crown and Anchor, in Westgate Street. Population, 50,762. Ipswich, the capital of Suffolk, and manifestly a prosperous town with plenty of excellent shops in its principal streets, has no great "lions," but a good deal that is interesting to show the tourist. If he arrives by rail, then Station Road, Princes Street, and King Street, will take him direct in f m. to Cornhill and Tavern Street, where he will be in the immediate neighbourhood of the hotels above named, and of the principal public buildings. If he arrive by road or river he can, on quitting the quay, at once see some of the older parts of the town, and then make his 112 HARWICH AND FELIXSTOWE SECTION. way to Tavern Street. In this case he will have close at hand, near St. Peter's church, in College Street, the gateway of Cardinal Wolsey's College, which is all that remains of that foundation. It is of brick, and of little interest in itself. Pro- bably it was one of the minor entrances to the college. Proceeding eastward, past the church of St. Mary Quay (notice the gilt key, and ascend the tower for a fine view of Ipswich), to Fore Street St. Clements, an interesting old street with several 16th century fronts, we reach the " ancient precincts " of St. Clements church, where Mr. Samuel Weller "endeavoured to dissipate his melancholy," and can visit the " retired spot," where " he was suddenly transfixed... by a sudden appearance." There is a narrow lace called Angel Lane, leading to Back Street, and at the bottom of the lane runs the celebrated passage in which Sam Weller saw Job Trotter emerge from a green gate. It was the same green gate by which Mr. Pickwick was taken, to answer for his conduct before the Ipswich Magistrate. Several green gates are still to be seen hereabouts, but the one pointed out as being rendered famous by Dickens, is the last garden- gate in the churchyard, within a few yards of Church Street.—/. E. Taylor. Beturning to Fore Street, turn left by Orwell Place to Tacket Street, and then, right, up Upper Brook Street to Tavern Street, which is the principal business street of the town. Here is the " Great White Horse," the " overgrown tavern," where Mr. Pickwick met with " a romantic adventure." The house, which is still the principal inn, has been refronted, but the court-yard is as it was in the old coaching days. On Cornhill is the new Town Hall and the Post Office. Proceeding along King Street, between these two buildings, and past the Corn Exchange, turn to the left to the Butter Market. Here " Sparrowe's House," so called from a family that long occupied it, and now a book- seller's shop, has a fine plaster and carved front, dating from about the Kestoration. Below four large bay windows are representations of the four quarters of the globe. In the middle of the front are the arms of Charles the Second, and the whole is enriched with wreaths, pilasters &c. Within, a room upstairs from the shop has a handsome ceiling, and this is all that, except by special per- mission, is open to the visitor. The side of the house in St. Stephen's Lane should also be seen. From the Buttermarket by Dial Lane (passing the Perpendicular church of St. Lawrence, whose clock gives its name to the thoroughfare) and crossing Tavern Street to Tower Street, we reach the fine church of St. IVIary-at-Tower, which was rebuilt at the cost of Mr. G. C. Bacon and finished in 1868. The tower and spire are 176 ft. high and very graceful. Within, the Perpendi- cular arcade of the nave belongs to the old building. There is a good deal of modern stained glass that is satisfactory. Notice the monument to John Robinson (d. 1666), and, in the church- yard, the fine cross to the memory of Bishop Patteson. Continuing along Tower Street and turning, right, to St. Mar- gareVs Plain, we reach, past the Masonic Hall, St. Margaret's GAINSBOROUGH'S LANE. 113 Church (restored), which, architecturally, is the most important building in Ipswich. Externally the chief features are the fine tower and south porch and, inside, the Decorated nave arcade, the rich roof and good Perpendicular font. From St. Margaret's Plain by Park Terrace and Fonnereau Road it is but a short distance to the Arboretum, which consists of two well laid out pleasure grounds, of which the "Upper" is free. For admission to the u Lower," a charge of 6d. is made. Adjoin- ing the latter is Christchurch Park (T. N. Fonnereau, Esq.). It is certainly worth the visitor's while to go to the Upper Arboretum, for the sake of the view of the town. Returning from Fonnereau Road by High Street and crossing Westgate Street to Museum Street, we reach the Museum (free). In the entrance hall is part of a Roman pavement, discovered in 1855, and the old " ducking stool." At the top of the staircase is a large picture, by Haydon, of a meeting of slavery abolitionists, in 1840. The strong point of the museum is the collection of fossils from the Crag. This has recently been enriched by the Canham collection, presented by Sir Richard Wallace. A striking object is the fine case of lions, tigers, etc. Near the dock are the Orwell Iron Works of Ransome and Sims, the celebrated agricultural implement makers, and across the New Cut are those of Ransome and Rapier, where railway iron- work is largely made. Both establishments are worth visiting by the curious in such matters, and permission is in both cases courteously granted. Of a very different kind of interest is Gainsborough's Kane, well known from that master's " Market Cart." It can be reached from the Promenade, which borders the New Cut, where the steamers start from. Then proceed past the Cliff Brewery and along the Orwell for a short distance, and by a road which strikes up hill and across a field to a gate* The distance from the land- ing-stage is about 1£ m. 3. To Orford, hy sea and river, 13 m. The sea portion of this route is about 7 w. to the mouth of the River Ore, at Hollesley Bars. For Orford, see p. 106. For Butley Priory, which can be visited from Orford, see p. 107. The walk or drive either to Butley or Orford is too long and uninteresting to be recommended. The nearest way for pedestrians is to Bawdsey Ferry, 2i m ; Bawdsey, 4J m ; Alderton, 5£ m ; Hol- lesley, 7J m ; Butley Ferry, 11 1 m ; Orford, 14 m. Hollesley church is partly in ruins. At Capel St. Andrews (where we turn to the right for Butley Ferry) the remains of Butley Priory are about a mile straight on. Guide VL s 114 HARWICH AND FELIXSTOWE SECTION. Manningtree to Dovercourt and Harwich, 10| m. by rail. The line keeps close to the estuary of the Stour, the view o£ which and of the low rolling hills beyond is pretty at high water. At Mistley the domed " Doric " Church has given place to a new one, built in 1870, which is seen from the line. At Bradfield we get a full view of the estuary with Stutton Church on the opposite shore. The trees of Stutton parsonage are famous for their un. usual size. At Wrabness, the next Station, as well as at Wix, 1$ m., right, the church has an isolated wooden belfry. Just before reaching Dovercourt is Parkeston, whence the G. E. R. steamers start for Rotterdam and Antwerp. There is a large hotel at the Station. iptwiffc m& §mmmxt* Botels : At Harwich, Great Eastern, Pier, both facing the har- bour; Three Cups t in the town. At Dovercourt, Cliff, on the Esplanade ; Phoenix, on shore, 10 min. south of Station ; Queen* Head, in the town ; Victoria, close to the Station. Post : Del. alt 7 a.m., 1, 5.30 p.m. ; desp.abt. 9.30 a.m., 12.45, 3, 8.30 p.m. Telegraph Offices. Post-town for Dovercourt : Harwich. These places are half a mile apart ; Harwich, on the wide estuary of the Orwell and Stour ; Dovercourt, facing the sea. Except in the hotels near the harbour, Harwich has not much accommodation for visitors. From these hotels, however, there is a very pleasant view across the broad estuary, which is always gay with shipping, to the Suffolk shore. The town of Harwich is mean and dull, the lighthouses superannuated, the church, built in 1820, devoid of interest, and the really pleasant esplanade, along which the walk may be extended round Beacon Hill and Dovercourt, is in the summer apt to be too populous with excur- sionists. Dovercourt, on the other hand, is particularly pleasant. The principal hotels are good ; there are good lodgings and an ex- cellent esplanade, as well as a road along the cliff commanding a delightful and wide view, with the tower of Walton-on-the-Naze conspicuous to the south across the bay. Dovercourt Spa ad- joins the esplanade, but is more patronised as a lounge than for the waters (mild tonic). There is a reading-room and library at the west end of the building. When a change of scene is wanted, * To prevent confusion, it should be stated, that when "Dovercourt' is named the watering place is meant. The original place of that name is distinguished by the prefix Upper. WKABNESS—WIX. 115 Harwich and the river are within ten minutes' walk, and Upper Dovercourt, the parent village, is about a mile inland where the church, once possessed of a famous rood, is small but of some in- terest. The G. E. B. steamers for Antwerp and Rotterdam now run to and from Parkeston Quay. 1. To Ipswich, by steamer up the Orwell. The voyage is described the reverse way, p. 109, and Ipswich, p. 111. 2. To Felixstowe Pier and Felixstowe, p. 110. 3. To Walton-on-tbe-Naze, by sea, 8 m. from Dovercourt, 9 m. from Harwich ; by road from Dovercourt, 14 m. The sea trip needs no description. The road is fairly rural, but not worth the trouble of the walk or the expense of the drive, unless the traveller's object is to proceed down the coast. It goes by Little Oakley Church, 4J m; Great Oakley, 6£ m; Beaumont, 8 m; Kirby-le-Soken, 11} m ; Walton, 14 m. 4. By rail to Wrabness, 5 m ; then byroad to Wrabness Church, Jm; Wix Church, 2£m; Great Oakley Church, 4^wi; Little Oakley Church, 6£m; Dovercourt, 10} m. Wrabness Church is north-west from the Station. The object of our visit is the low wooden and ivy-clad belfry in the churchyard. From the church, returning for a short distance along the road by which we reached it, we take road on right over the railway to the Manningtree road, where we turn to the right and follow it for | m. Then a by-road on the left leads to Wix, before reaching which avoid a turn to the left. Of the small Benedictine Convent, founded at Wix early in the 12th century, there is nothing left worth look- ing for. In the churchyard is a wooden belfry, similar to that at Wrabness, but more picturesque from the trees springing from it at either end. From the church proceed south to the Colchester road, and turn to the left along the straggling village, near the end of which, at a fork, take the right-hand road, which gradually descends to Great Oakley Church. A short distance beyond this we turn up to the right and then to the left to the village. At the next fork turn to the right and proceed past Great Oakley Hall. Little Oakley Church is on the high ground left of the road, before we reach the village to which it belongs. The road hence to the main road is rather erratic, but cannot well be missed. 5. To Woolverstone Park by steamer to Pin Mill. The gardens can be seen in the absence of the family. The house (not shown) was built about a hundred years ago. The park, a favourite place for picnics, is the pleasantest spot within easy reach of Harwich. Close to the river is Cat House, so named, it is 116 HARWICH AND FELIXSTOWE SEC1ION. said, by the sailors navigating the Orwell, on account of a white cat that used to be seen there. The obelisk, that is so conspicuous from the river, is 96 feet high. The gardens are exceedingly beautiful and well kept. Berners Street, London, took its name from the Berners of Woolverstone. The return to Harwich can ' be varied by walking to Shotley Gate, 5 m. from the park, and at the mouth of the Stour, opposite Harwich. In this way, by making a detour of about a mile, Erwarton church (containing three fine monuments to the Davillers family) and the hall (Elizabethan, with 17th century gateway) can be seen. They are on the right of the road and can be reached by taking a by-road 2 miles after passing Chelmondis- ton church. — 117 WALTON AND CLACTON SECTION. Colchester (mainline) to Walton-on-the-Naze, 191 m., or Clacton-on-Sea, 18* m. by rail. Most trains run into St. Botolph's Station. Colchester is given under Excursions, p. 122. Its port, to which a long street runs down, is at Hythe, of which we get a view on the right. The line then follows the Colne to Wivenhoe [the junction for Brlg-htlingrsea (Inn : Swan), a large fishing village, odoriferous in its business quarter and possessed of no attractions whatever to the tourist. By crossing the ferry, a walk first along a sea wall and then inland by St. Osyth's Priory to Clacton, 8 m., may be taken, but we cannot recommend it. For St. Osyth's Priory, see p. 120] , where the church has an octagonal tower, seen from the line, and contains some good early 16th century brasses. The view of the windings of the Colne, with a few craft, is pretty, as we turn away eastward. Alresford church is seen on the right, and then on the left, close to the station, that of Great Bentley, which has some good Norman work. Beyond Weeley, which was formerly the station for Clacton, the old church tower and the hall are seen among the trees on the right. As we near Thorpe, its church and hall are on the left. There is a refreshment room at Thorpe Station, where a stoppage of a minute or two takes place whilst the train divides. From this point there is nothing to mention on the way to Walton except that just before reaching it we get a peep, on the left, of Harwich. On the way to Clacton, the only item is the village of Great Clacton on the right hand. On April 22, 1884, an earthquake did much damage in this district. — Hotels : Dorling's Marine, on the Esplanade ; Dorling's, close to the New Pier; Albion, Bath House, Portobello. Post : Del. 7.40 a.m., 1 p.m. ; desp. 12.15, 6 p.m. ; additional 7.5 p.m. in summer. Telegraph Office. Some years ago Walton was a favourite resort, late in the year, with quiet-loving folk, who, wanting to do nothing, could perfectly succeed. In a measure it is so still, but the place has about it rather the Bhabbiness than the respectability of age. Public spirit appears to be dead and buried, unless, indeed, ii has 118 WALTON AND CLACTON SECTION. migrated to Clacton. There are still, of course, the Terrace, and the worthy Marine Hotel, but the latter must feel sad as it remembers old times, and thinks of the catering for day -parties to which the town is now so much given up. The old pier has been removed, and the new one though sound is of small merit. The Esplanade is nearly as uneven as irregular patches of flags can make it, and almost necessitates one's walking in the road that borders it. Even the sands, excellent in themselves both for bath- ing and walking, are so cut up into patches by numberless groins as to render the latter process an impossibility. Lastly, the church has been rebuilt on larger but scarcely interesting lines. An old one fell into the sea years ago. Worst of all, good potable water is scarce. We hold no brief against Walton, or on, behalf of any rival. The above remarks were written on the spot, on a lovely afternoon, and still hold true. Two walks may be mentioned. One by a path along the edge of the cliff, northward, to the Tower on the Naze. This is about If m. from the Station. The tower itself is only a sea-mark built of brick, and of three stories. The many groins in all stages of decay are a rather picturesque feature of the shore. A short distance beyond the tower the cliff ends. Harwich is seen across the bay. The other walk is along the cliff southward. About a third of a mile in this direction is a farm-house on, and partly shored-up over, the verge. The view of Walton from the cliff beyond this farmhouse is pretty, with the Tower on the Naze beyond it. Frlnton Church, 2£ m. from Walton by the coast (abt. 2J m. by road), is very small, and though lacking in architectural interest, is both picturesque and pic- turesquely placed. It of course claims to be the smallest church in England, but travellers in the west-country will recall the tiny church of Culbone, in Somerset. Of longer excursions, Dovercourt and Harwich are respectively about 8 and 9 m. distant by sea northwards, and Clacton- on- Sea about 7 m. by water southwards. The latter place may also be reached by rail via Thorpe Junction in 9| m., by the cliff or sands in 7 w., or by road via Great Holland, 8 m. Neither the road nor the coast route presents any features calling for description. Colchester (17 m. by rail to St. Botolph's Station) is described jj. 122. For other excursions, see under Clacton, jp. 120. The Bed Crag is well exposed in the fine cliff section at Walton-on-the- Naze. Here we see it to be a coarse, reddish-brown and grey sand, full of shells, and showing much false bedding. Of shell-fish 148 species have been obtained from Walton, of which 75 are Mediterranean species, showing probably a rather warmer climate than at present. At the Naze we see 6 or 7 feet of Bandy clay resting on the Red Crag, which may possibly belong to the Chillesford Beds. Harriton. 119 <£,Utiim-im-$t%* Hotels : "Royal, opposite the pier ; Waverley, on Marine Parade West ; Osborne, Imperial Marine, Albion, Crown. Post : Del. 7.30 a.m., 4 p.m. ; desp. 12.20, 6.15 p.m. Additional desp. in summer at 7 p.m. Post Town : Colchester. The rapid growth of Clacton in size and favour has few rivals on this side of the Atlantic. It takes its name from the parish of Great Clacton in which it is situated, and dates from 1873, when the Koyal Hotel was opened. Previously to that, Clacton beach had acquired some reputation as a pleasant bit of coast, but the site of the town was occupied by farms. Now there is a well laid out and exceedingly comely watering-place. The principal hotels are excellent, and of lodgings and private houses there is a good and constantly increasing supply. Bright little gardens are everywhere a restful feature, and there is a general absence of pretentiousness about the town. The essentials of good drainage and faultless water supply—the latter not common on this coast—combine with a good shore, good roads and paths to make up an unusually pleasant and healthy place, whose only fault from a guide-book point of view is its rapid growth which makes any description more or less out of date almost as soon as printed. The Pier (toll, Id. ; day tickets, 2d.) is a substantial struc- ture, well protected for children, with sheltered seats and a refreshment room at the pier-head , which is so formed as to enable steamers to lie-by in any ordinary weather. A further attraction of the sea-front of this town is its aspect, a trifle east of south. This secures it from the drawback of a broiling afternoon sun, and the esplanade below the cliff affords a sheltered promenade. The sands are excellent for bathing, and boating can be safely enjoyed ad libitum. The only weak point is the scenery. 120 WALTON AND CLACTON SECTION. At Clacton, stumps of trees, forming a submerged forest, are to be seen at low water, which indicates a subsidence of the coast line. A well-sinking for water at. Clacton-on-Sea, in 1878, passed through Post-Glacial sands, 18 feet; London Clay, 1 94 feet ; Heading Beds, 56 feet ; entering the chalk at a depth of 270 feet. Harrison. Such is Clacton-on-Sea, growing, clean, healthy. Its com- parative nearness to London, and cheap return tickets, have already made it a favourite holiday resort. We must not omit to mention that the Glacton Regatta marks the reddest day in its calendar. t&ummm from €lutt8n-Bn-$M. Of walks and excursions there are not many, but two of them, a least, are really worth making, exclusive of the short stroll to Great c lac ton, the parent village, where the church has a Norman tower and chancel. 1. To St. Osyth's Priory, 4J tn., by road. The road, which leaves Clacton past the waterworks, calls for no description. The principal inn at St. Osyth is the Red Lion, in the village and a minute or two's walk on the Clacton side of the Priory. History of the Priory.—Of St. Osyth, whose name has long supplanted that of Cic or Chich, by which the parish was known in early times, little is certainly known. The life given by Capgrave is at once shown to be untrust- worthy by the fact that it makes St. Osyth a contemporary both of St. Modwen (7th century), and St. Edith of Polesworth, who died in 954. The 1 gend is that Osyth, daughter of King Frith wald, and, on her mother's side, granddaughter of Penda,King of Mercia, was placed under the care of St. Edith, who ruled the con- vent Streushal in the forest of Arderne. One winter St. Edith, wishing to send a book to St. Modwen, who was abbess of Polesworth in the same forest, made Osyth her messenger. The maiden, when she came to a bridge over a river, was, by a violent gust of wind, blown into the water. Three days afterwards an angel appeared to St. Modwen, and bade her repair to the river, where she found St. Edith bewailing Osyth. Explanations exchanged, they consulted some neighbouring shepherds, who said they remembered seeing a girl approach the bridge, but could tell nothing more. After prayer, St. Modwen conjured Osyth to cotne forth from the water, which she did book in hand. St. Modwen re- turned thanks and went home, whilst Osyth went back with St. Edith, and afterwards returned to her parents, who gave her in marriage to Sighere, King of the East Saxons. A beautiful stag thereupon tempted the sport-loving monarch away from his bride, who during his absence took the veil. Sighere later on built a convent at Chich, over which St. Osyth presided. At length, for envy of her piety, the devil stirred up sons of perdition from Dacia, who landed at Chich, and endeavoured to induce St. Osyth to sacrifice to their gods. Her refusal cost her her head, which she herself, led by angels, bore to the church three furlongs off. On the spot where she was martyred a fountain burst forth in the Nun's Wood, which may still be seen I The fact appears to be that St. Osyth was murdered by the Danes, who ravaged the Eastern counties in 870. Her convent was utterly destroyed. The manor of Chich, with which among other property it was endowed, passed through several owners' hands till, in 1 120, it was obtained by Bishop Richard de Belmeis (or Beauvays) of London, who bestowed it on the Augustinian monas- tery he had founded on the site of the convent. William de Corbeuil, afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury, was the first abbot. The buildings of the monastery were nearly all rebuilt early in the 16th century. At its dissolution in 1539, the priory was granted by the king to Cromwell, but reverted to the crown on that statesman's tall a few months after. Edward VI. conferred it on Sir Thomas, Lord Darcy, in whose family it remained till 1635, when it passed to the Savage family, then recently ennobled with the Earldom of Rivers. The misfortunes of Lady Rivers, who was a Roman Catholic and Royalist, during the Civil War are ST. OSYTH'S PRIORY. 121 well known. St. Osyth, which had till then been the principal seat of the family, was sicked. In 1712 the priory passed by marriage to the 3rd Earl of Rochford, who built the greater part of the present house. He died in 1738. It remained in the Nassau family till 1863, when it was bought by Mr. (now Sir) J. H. Johnson, the present owner, who has effected much careful restoration of the old buildings. The entrance to the Priory is separated from the main roadway by a pleasant greensward at a corner of which is the entrance Gate House. On the way to this, notice in the farm buildings on the left a fine round-headed Decorated doorway. The Gate House is Late Perpendicular, and like most of the existing remains of the Priory was built during the abbacy of Abbot Vyntoner (d. 1533). It is of flint with flush freestone tracery. On either side of and over the gateway are empty niches that once held the statues of St. Osyth, St. Peter, and St. Paul, the three patron saints of the house. The groined roof of the gateway is notice- able, and then, as we enter the quadrangle, a portion of the house built by Lord Rochford before 1738, faces us—the rest was removed in 1859 to open up the beautiful view of ths park now obtainable. The visitor is next taken through the tastefully laid out gardens to the little that remains of the buildings that Abbot Vyntoner's work replaced. The Crypt (or Chapel), is Early English, and has [a good groined roof. It is supposed to have originally had only one entrance and no windows. Certainly the present open- ings are far later than the fabric itself, and were probably made when the piscina was added and the crypt converted into a chapel. The west front still shows some arches of the arcade that ran along it. A column near the clock tower is possibly a remnant of the first monastery, and fragments of this house are worked up into the existing walls. The Abbot's Tower may belong to Abbot Hemingham's time (d. 1495), but can scarcely be earlier. It is diapered in flint and stone, has corner turrets, and is about 80 feet high. A spiral stair-case, formerly of stone, but now of wood, leads to the top, whence a wide view is obtained. The estuary of the Blackwater, Mersea Island, the mouth of the Thames, and the shores of Kent, are all in sight besides church towers and spires for many miles round. In the park are a few of the Lombardy poplars planted in 1768 by the 4th Earl of Rochford. The intel- ligent cicerone who shows visitors the Priory is an fait in the architectural and historical interest of the place, and is, moreover, a keen theologian, though of no mediaBval type. . St. Osyth Church, dedicated, like the Priory, to St. Peter and St. Paul has a flint tower supported by brick buttresses. There are several monuments of the noble families that have owned the Priory. The communion rails, horse-shoe shape, are curious, and are known as " the fold." 2. To Colchester, 17 m., by rail. The railway journey is described the reverse way, p, 117. Book to St. Botolph's Station. The main line station is i-ra. from the town. See next page. 122 WALTON AND CLACTON SECTION. (Btftftottf. Hotels I Three Cups ; George ; Bed Lion, Population : 28,395. Colchester (= colonics castra), the principal town, though not the capital, of Essex, is a place of great antiquity. If it is to be identified with Camulodunum, it was already a place of im- portance before the Eoman conquest. Claudius landed in Britain and took possession of Camulodunum a.d. 44, which in a.d. 60 was made a Eoman colony, the first that was founded in Britain. Two years later, however, it was utterly destroyed by the Iceni, and every Boman perished. Soon after the defeat of Boadicea by Paulinus, it seems to have been rebuilt and fortified with those walls of which so large a portion is still stand- ing. It was many hundred years later a place of great strength under the Normans, as is evident from the existing castle. In 1218 it was taken by the Dauphin, afterwards Lewis VIII. of France. During the persecutions of Mary's reign many adherents of the reformed faith suffered at Colchester, but its history is com- paratively uneventful until the time of the Civil War, when it underwent a siege of 11 weeks, in 1648, and was captured by Fairfax, who shot its gallant defenders, Sir Charles Lucas and Sir George Lisle. The principal objects of interest here are the Norman Castle, the Roman Walls, the ruined church of St. Botolph's Priory, and the St. John's Abbey Gate. Leaving the train at St. Botolph's Station, the two latter are within a short distance. St. Botolph's Priory. Only the ruins of the church remain. These are Norman, and part of the original foundation for Augustinian canons, founded in 1103. The west front has a fine central doorway, with smaller ones on either side, and is ornamented above with interlacing arches. Of the nave, a con- siderable portion is standing, with plain round pillars, in the con- struction of which much Boman tile has been used. Tlie St. John's Abbey Gate is reached from St. Botolph's Street by St. Giles* Street, which leads to St. John's Green. The Benedictine Abbey of St. John was founded by Eudo "Dapifer," in 1096, but this gateway was built in the reign of Henry VII. It is of flint with stone ornamentation. Over the main archway is 9 niche with two-light square-headed windows on either side. At each corner of the building is a 4-stage turret, with a crocketed pinnacle. Owing to entire restoration (by the Government, to whom it belongs), the work has lost all appearance of age. COLOHESTEE. 123 The Castle is in the north-east quarter of the town, and by leaving St. John's Green by Abbey Gate Street, and proceeding towards High Street by Trinity Street, Holy Trinity Church may be seen on the way to it. The noteworthy feature is the Saxon tower of Eoman tile, with a very Early west door. To reach the Castle from High Street, turn to the left, up Museum Street, nearly opposite the rebuilt St. Nicholas Church (Decorated, by Sir Gilbert Scott). The Castle. This is the largest Norman keep in England, the outside measurements being 164ft. by 126ft., -and the ground about it being open, its enormous size is very mposing. The most striking feature of the exterior is a round tower, rising from the wall at the south-west corner. On the top of the wall, where a square flanking tower adjoins it, and close to this round tower, grows a sycamore. The entrance to the Castle is on that side (south), under a Norman arch. A staircase on the right leads down to the vaults, four in number, which should be seen if the visitor desires to realise the massiveness of the building. The old well still remains. Kemounting the stairs we enter the central area, which is divided by a wall into two parts. Notice the herring-bone work of Eoman tiles. Passing through a door in this wall we can visit the dungeons whence Lucas and Lisle were led to execution. Returning to the main entrance, and ascending the staircase on the left, we can reach the top of the walls. On the first floor on the south side, and reached by this staircase, is a large room, con- taining a collection of books left to the town by Archbishop Harsnet, a native of Colchester (d. 1631). The corridor on the north side of this room, which leads to a Norman chapel with an apse, is, with the chapel, now used as the Museum. The especial trea- sure of the collection of Eoman antiquities is a sphinx gloating over a victim. It is of stone, and was foun d whilst excavating the foundations of the hospital in 1821. There is a good collection of fossils and shells arranged in the corridor. The Roman walls of the town form a rectangle nearly two miles in circuit. The south side of this is now very much destroyed or hidden. The walls are composed of cement-stone (a kind of limestone) and brick, arranged in regular lines. On the west side of the town Balcon Hili, which descends towards the river, is along the line of the wall, which is there well seen. The hill takes its name from the Balcon, the principal bastion, now in ruins. For most of its course the High Street of the town marks the chief avenue of the Eoman city. Those interested in the much debated question, the site of Camulodunum, should proceed to Lexden, l£ m., by Lexden Road, which leaves the town at the south-west corner of the walls in a line with the south side. About f ra. beyond the village is "King CoeVs Kitchen,'''' a small horseshoe enclosure that has been supposed to have been the theatre of the original Eoman colony. For a considerable distance south of this, lines of en- 124 WALTON AND CLACTON SECTION. trenchment may be traced which are variously regarded as Roman or British. If they are decided to be the latter, then we have here probably the defences of the new capital of the Trinobantes, founded by Cunobelin. "Old King Cole" com- memorates a traditional descendant of Cunobelin, King Coel. 3. To Walton on-the-Naze (p. 117). (a) (b) This can be reached by sea, 7 m ; by the coast, 7 m ; (c) byroad, 8 m; (d) by rail (via Thorpe), 9| ra. By the coast- walk the little church of Frinton, 4| ra., can be visited. 4. To Castle Hedlngnam, 35 m. by rail. (Hotel, Bell.) This village takes its distinctive title from the castle of the De Veres, Earls of Oxford, who here had their principal seat. It has two objects of great interest : the castle and the church. The Castle was built about 1080, and the Norman Keep, well preserved, is still standing. Across the ditch is a fine 15th cen- tury bridge. The keep is of four floors, besides the ground floor, and 100 ft. in height to the top of the flanking towers. The casing is of Barnack stone and much enriched. The entrance, as usual, is on the first floor, and through a fine Norman doorway. The principal chamber was on the 3rd floor, and measures 38 ft. by 31 ft. and has an arched roof. Notice the fine fireplace, and the moulded window recesses of this room. Interesting as this massive monument of the greatest of historic families is archi- tecturally, it has also for the artist hardly less attraction, as seen from below, amidst the fine old trees. The castle is within the grounds of — Majendie, Esq., who allows the public to view the ruins on week-days from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. The church (restored), has a Norman nave, and Transitional Norman chancel, and is therefore of about the same date as the Castle Keep. There is a fine 14th century screen. The brick tower is obviously comparatively modern, and is said to have been built in or about 1616. There is only one De Vere monu- ment, an altar tomb of John, 15th Earl {d. 1539). The principal burial place of this family was the church of the Benedictine priory, at Earl's Coine, 7 miles, south-west, by rail. At the dissolution of the monasteries this house was destroyed, and the monuments, with the exception of four, have all been lost. Those that remain are in a cloister at Colne Prwry, (J. Carwardine, Esq.), but they are so mutilated that it is scarcely possible to say whom they commemorate. One is assigned to Kobert de Vere, 5th Earl of Oxford. , 37™ Mtiimlxale,s rLLM /Hoiwell K tF online ss/L J,// ^^/»|^ v^Qf^jp/w ^^p^^^^m^^m ^.^"^a-JSMoplaiiA J2 J^^^O,^ ),'>:}:''' >> <;. ,„,. ,," /;Souiflic}nJ? l/; M a p I i n ^^/ysLitsK?- '"'^ ~" ^aoebiuynesg fe?>fcj^| bl£^ (?^J7^^^^^r;^"- Wr t 5 " Sli... l^ry^css *^\ czf ™"^!-^^^ ' LviUUA 21 n"" Li '' ht \Zeigk3Gddle , Mild.lt'Daze. :.'- MOUTH OK THE "' ' ' 1 u l ; ":''" i ' -" " i>pvs ,--*-'- RIYE.S-—THAMES '"^" > , fallows^,-X * " £^ , -^.' ff r7 J. B artholomew; 1 3in? 125 SOUTHEND SECTION, London (Fenchurch Street or Liverpool Street Stations) to Southend, by rail, 42 m. This route, as far as Barking Station, 8 m., where the G.E.R. line from Liverpool Street runs in, is urban. The first bit of country is the level marsh land of the Eoding Valley, that appears pleasantly green after bricks and mortar. Then on the right we catch sight of the Outfall Works, where London pays its tribute to Father Thames. If we were in search of churches, we might stop at almost any station on this line and find one or more within reach full of historic or architectual interest. Bainham Church, with a good deal of Norman work, is close to Rainham Station on the left of the line. Then as we reach Purfleet, the chalk quarries with their white cliffs, capped and draped with greenery, are really pretty. West Thurrock Church, with a low embattled tower, which is seen between this and Grays, is of great interest architecturally. Then we get a pretty view across the Thames, thronged with many and varied craft, and come in sight of Gravesend, as we run into Tilbury. Tilbury Fort we shall see as we leave the station. It has nothing to do with Elizabeth's famous review of her troops made ajter all danger from the Armada was over, but was erected in 1667, and is now an im- portant factor in the defences of the Thames. Tilbury has in recent years, owing to formation of large docks, become an im- portant port. As we proceed, the churches of East Tilbury, Mucking, and S.tanford-le-Hope are seen on the right. The traveller, who is not in a hurry to get to his destination, should leave the train at Stanford-le-Hope Station, and, after visitiDg the interesting church which is close by, walk by Horndon and Langdon II ill to Pitsea Station. The distance is about 9 m. Langdon Hill, though only S7& feet high, affords a magnificent view. By rail onward there is nothing to remark until we are some 2 m. past Benfieet station, when the picturesque ruins of Had- leigh Castle are on a hill above the line on the left. (For Had- leigh, see p. 127.) At Leigh, which is the station next before Southend, a " smmming bath for gentlemen " would seem to be expressly provided for mudlarks. 126 SOUTHEND SECTION. jtottttontf. Hotels : Royal (best) ; Hope ; Ship ; Pier ; Terminw* Post: 3 deliveries ; 4 despatches. Steamers from London during the summer. Southend-on-Sea, as it now wishes to be called, is during the summer and early autumn one of the most popular of London playgrounds, and provides abundance of all the amusements in vogue at such places at such times. "Tea and shrimps, 9d." may then be regarded as its motto, and little more need be added by way of description. It would, however, be misleading not to say, that out of the season Southend is a very different place indeed. Then, if you want a whiff of the sea and to be unhampered by the conventionalities, it is pleasant enough. The only feature of the place calling for description is the Pier. This is of wood and 2,000 yds. long, but less than 3 yds. wide. A tram-line runs to the pier head, and at intervals there are bays with seats. At the end is a life boat and a cottage where refreshments can be obtained. The opposite coast of Kent is low and featureless. The objects in sight from the pier are, east, Shoeburyness and the spire of Southchurch church. The spire at the back of the terrace is that of a Non- conformist chapel. Westward is seen Leigh, and beyond it Had- leigh Castle. When the tide is out, the pier is for the greater part of its length across a flat and muddy tract on which mussels and oysters are not to be picked. There is always water at the pier head. <&MuxmM fxoxa %xmfytxfo* 1. To Shoeburyness, by the shore, 3 m. Just before reaching the village is South Shoebury church, partly Norman, in a pretty and cared-for grave-yard. The chancel arch, Norman, is fine. At a short distance, just outside the Government works, is the Cam- bridge Hotel. The principal objects of interest are the fine Ar- tillery Barracks, with a good Garrison church, and the gun range on the sands. The village, which is east of the barracks, is small and unattractive. The railway now goes to Shoeburyness. 2. To Pr ittiewell, a long mile. Here the object of interest is the church. The best way to it is up WhiU,jate Road, then turn to the right, and in a few yards HADLEIGH CASTLE. J 27 take a lane on the left. Till about a dozen years ago the church was interesting, but terribly neglected. It has now been restored and is a fine church, though rather too spick and span. Outside the work is Perpendicular, and the tower lofty and graceful. The south porch has a parvise over it, and a very good oak door that sadly needs clearing of paint. The arcade between the nave and south aisle has three light Perpendicular bays eastward, and three rather heavy Early English ones westward. Good modern frescoes fill the spandrels of the chancel arch. At the east end of the south aisle is a guild chapel with piscina and niche. The rood-loft staircase still re- mains. The coloured glass is all modern, and so are the teak fittings of the nave. A small light over the east window of the chancel is curiously askew. The font should be noticed. At Prittlewell was a Priory of Cluniacs. The site is down hill from the church over the bridge, and en theright hand where some iron gates lead to a private house. There is little or nothing of the buildings to be seen, and what there is is not open to the public. At Shopland, about 2* w. from Prittlewell, north-east, the small and ugly church contains an interesting Norman font. 3. To Hadleigh and Hadleiy h Castle. Hadleigh village is 5 m. from Southend by road. The Castle is about £ w. south from the church. A good route for the pedestrian is to take the train to Benfleet, 6jm., where South Benfleet church, restored, is worth seeing. Thence a pleasant road (turn to the right a little way from South Benfleet church) leads to Hadleigh, 24 w. where the Norman Church, beautifully restored by Street, is very interest- ing. Notice especially the Early English window in the nave with -i.e., a fresco of Beatus Tortious , Thomas a Becket. This painting is almost certainly a contemporary memorial of the Archbishop who was murdered in 1170. Taking the road south from the church it is only ten minutes' walk to the Castle. This was built about 1230, and for the last 300 years has been a ruin. The principal portions still standing are two round towers at the N.W. and S.W. angles. There is nothing of any particular interest, but the ruins are picturesque. The view over the estuary of the Thames would, apart from the castle, be a sufficient reward for the walk. From the Castle the tourist can either return to Hadleigh and take the main road (5 m.) to Southend, or descend to the lower ground and take the rail at Leigh Station, 2 m. from the castle. Of other places in the neighbourhood, Eochford is4£ra., and Rayleigh is 8 m., but at neither is there anything worth going to see, unless the mound or " castle," possibly a British entrench- ment, just west of the latter, be an object of interest to the tourist. It commands a wide view over a well-wooded district. , INDEX. N.B. Where more than one page is referred to, that on which a locality if particularly described is given first. Telegraph Stations are indicated by an asterisk. Railway Stations by an obelisk. The names enclosed in square brackets are required to complete the Postal address. *tAcle [Norwich] , 92. Burnham Deepdale, 58. -*t Aide burgh [Saxmundham] *f— Market [Lynn] , 59. 104. — Thorpe, 59. — Mere, 105. *|Bury-St -Edmunds, 54. Ant River, 81. Butley Priory, 107. Antingham, 78. *fAttleborough, 34. Caister (Norwich), 44, 46. fAudley End, 2. *t— [Yarmouth, Norfolk], 89, Aylmerton, 70, 69, 73. Calthorpe, 71. # *fAylsham, 72. |C am bridge, 3. Addenbrooke Hospital, 17. Castle, 3, 7. Babingley, 32. Colleges : Caius, 11. Bacton [North Walsham] 78. — Cavendish, 18. Barningham Northwood, 70. — Christ's, 4. — Town, 70. — Clare, 12. Bastwick, 50. — Corpus, 15. *fBeccles, 97. — Downing, 4. Beeston Priory, 74. — Emmanuel, 4. Belaugh, 93. — Girton, 18. fBelton, 88. — Jesus, 5. Benacre, 98. — King's, 12. Bin bam Priory, 62. — Magdalene, 7. *|Bishop's Stortford, 2. — Newnham, 18. *Blakeney [Dereham] , 75. — Pembroke, 16. BUckling, 72. — Queen's, 15. Blundeston, 97. — Selwyn, 18. fBlythburgh, 99. — Sidney, 5. Blytheford, 99. — St. Catherine, 15. Bodham Street, 75. — St. John's, 7. Bramerton Wood's End — St. Peter's, 17. [Norwich] , 91. — Trinity, 9. *Brancaster [Lynn] , 58. — Trinity Hall, 12. Breydon Water, 91. Churches : All Saints', 5. *fBrightlingsea, 117. — St. Benet's, 15. Broke Hall, 110. — St. Clement's, 7. Sromholm Priory, 78. — St. Giles', 7. fBuckenham Ferry, 91. — St. Mary the Great, 12. fBungay, 98. — — the Less, 17. Bure Eiver, 88. — St. Peter's, 7. Burgh Castle, 96. — St. Sepulchre's, 6. St. Peter's, 96. — Trinity, 5. Burlingham, 90. Divinity Schools, 7. : , INDEX. m Cambridge (continued) *t Felixstowe [Ipswich], 110. Fitzwilliam Museum, 17. t— Pier, 109, 110. Geological Museum, 12. Filby [Yarmouth, Norfolk] ,90. Hobson's Lane, 5. — Broad, 90. Pepysian Library, 7. Fleet Dyke, 81. Pitt Press, 15. Flixton, 97. Senate House, 11. *fFramlingkam, 107. University Library, 11. Freston Tower, 109. tCantley [Norwich] , 91. Frinton, 118. * Castle Acre, 47. Fritton [Yarmouth, Norfolk], *t— Hedingbam [Halstead], 88, 96. 124. — Rising:, 31. Gainsborough's Lane, 113. *fCatfield Station [Norwich] Gaywood, 49. 82. Gillingham, 97. f Cawston, 72. *Gorleston [Yarmouth, Nor- Chandler's Dyke, 82. folk] , 88. *fClielmsford, 45. tGreat Bentley, 117. Clacton-on-Sea [Col- — Clacton [Colchster , 120. ] chester] , 119. — Oakley, 115. *Cley [Dereham] , 75. Gresham, 70. Clippesby, 92. Gunton (Lowestoft), 68. # fColcliester, 122. f Clinton Park, 97. Coldham Hall, 91. *fColtishall [Norfolk], 93, 71. *tHaddiscoe, 98. Corton, 97. Hadleigh Castle, 127. Costessy, 50. *|Halesworth, 99. Covehithe, 101. Happisburgn [Norwich] ,79. # t Cromer, 64. Hardley Cross, 91. *tHarwicn, 114. *Danbury, 45. *Havering-atte-Bower, 45. Decoy Broad, 93. Hazeboro' [Norwich] , 79. Denny Abbey, 18. fHeacham, 34. *fDersingham [Lynn] , 33. Heigham, 44. *fDocking, 59. — Bridge, 81. — Sound, 82. *fBovercourt [Harwich] , 114. fDrayton, 50. #fHemsby [Yarmouth, Nor- /oZ7<;],89. Dunwicn [Yoxford] , 102. Herringfleet, 97, 96. East Beckham, 73. Hlckling Broad, 82. *f— Dereham, 48. — Priory, 82. Easton Broad, 101. — Stalthe [Norwich] , 82. *fEarl's Colne, 124. •tHillington, 49. Eccles, 82. fBolknam [Wells], 61. *t:ciy, 18. Holme, 58. Erpingham, 71. •tHolt [Dereham] , 75. Hopton, 97. Fakenhaan, 63. Horning [Norwich] , 92. Falgate Inn, 81. Horsey, 82. Felbrigrse 69. —- Mere, 82. Guide, VI. 130 INDEX. Houghton Hall, 60. *fMutford Bridge [Lowestoft], — in-the-dale, 62. 96. Hoveton Great Broad, 93. — Little Broad, 93. *tNarborough [Swaffham] , 47. *1 Hunstanton, 56. Narford HaU, 47. Hundred Kiver, 81. Naze, the, 118. *fNorth Walsnam, 52. Iken Cliff, 105. Northrepps, 68. Ingham, 80. *flfforwich, 35. Ingoldsthorpe [Lynn] , 33. Castle, 41. Ingworth, 73. Cathedral, 36-40. *flpswich, 111, 46. Churches: St. JEthelred,44. Irstead, 81. — St. Andrew, 43. Islington, 28. — St. Gregory, 43. — St. Giles, 43. Kelsale, 51. — St. Helen, 43. *Kessingland [Lowestoft] , 98. — St. John Madder- fKimberley, 49. market, 43. Kirkley [Lowestoft], 95. — St. Julian, 44. Knapton, 77. — St. Peter Mancroit, 42. Iiangrdon Hill, 125. Guildhall, 41. Langley Staithe, 91. Market Place, 41. *fLeigh, 125. Museum, 43. fieiston Abbey, 103. Old Man's Hospital, 43. Lessingham, 80. St. Andrew's Hall, 42. Lexden, 123. #Lingwood, 90. *Orford [Wickham Market], Little Oakley, 115. 106. *|Iiowestoft, 94. Ormesby Broad, 89. # Ludham [Norwich] , 81. t—St. Margaret's [Yarmouth, — Bridge, 81. Norfolk] , 89. *fl.ynn, 28. Orwell Park, 110. — Biver, 109. *lMaldon, 45. fOulton Broad, 95. Manningtree, 45. Overstrand, 66. Margaretting, 45. Oxnead, 72, 93. *fMark's Tey, 45. *t»Hartham [Yarmouth, Nor- *Pakefield, 98. folk] , 90, 82. Palling [Norwich] , 82. — Broad, 90. Paston, 77. Matlask, 70. Peddars Way, 34, 49. fnielton Constable [Dere- Pin Mill, 110. ham] , 49. *|Potter Heigham, 81. Metton, 69. *Prittlewell, 126. fMiddleton, 46. *tPurfleet, 125. *Mistley, 114. Morston, 75. *tRainham, 125. XKundesley [North Wal- Ranworth, 92. sham], 76. — Broad, 92. INDEX. 131 fRaynham Park, 63. fThorpe [Colchester], 117. *Bayleigh, 127. Thorpe (Cromer), 68. Bawsey, 49. Thorpe [Norwich], 91. *tBeedham (Ferry), 91. Thorpe Ness, 105. *tKeepham, 72. Thurne, 81. Eingstead, 59. — Mouth, 92. *Eochford, 127. — Eiver, 81. Eockland Broad, 91. Tilbury [Eomford] , 125. Eoman Camp (Cromer), 73. Titchwell, 58. fEoudham, 34. Trimingham, 67. Eoughton [Norwich] , 69, 71. Trimley, 111. Eunton, 74. Trunch, 68. St. Benet's Abbey, 81. "Walberswick, 101. *_ Osyth [Colchester] , 120. Walcot, 78. St. Osyth's Priory, 120. fWalpole, St. Peter, 28. fSalhouse (Broad), 93. Walsham Broad, 81. Sail, 72. *fWalsingham, New, 62. Sandringham [Lynn] , 33. — Old, 62. Sedgeford, 60. *f Walton-on-the-tfaze, 117. Sheerford, 49. *fWells [Norfolk] , 61. Sherringham [Cromer], 78, West Acre, 47. 74. — Somerton {Yarmouth, *Shoeburyness, 126. Norfolk] , 96. Sidestrand, 66. — Thurrock, 125. Sizewell, 105. Westwick, 52. Slaughden Quay, 105. Weybourne [Dereham] , 74. Sluice, 105. Wherstead Hall, 109. Snape, 106. Whitesley Sound, 82. *fSnettisham [Lynn] , 33. Whitlingham, 52, 91. Solebay, 101. Wickmere, 70. *fSomerleyton, 97. Wiggenhall, 28. South Acre, 47. Winterton [Yarmouth, Nor- *Southend, 126. folk] , 89. Southrepps, 68. *Wivenhoe, 117. * 1 Southwold, 100. Wix, 115. *fStalham [Norwich] , 81. fWolferton, 32. Stiffkey [Wells], 75. Wolterton Hall, 70. Stokesby Ferry [Yarmouth, Womack Broad, 81. Norfolk], 92. *fWoodbridge, 51. *|Stowmarket, 46. Woolverstone Park, 115, 109. Stutton, 114. *f Worsteaa [Norwich] , 52. Sudbourne Hall. 106. fWrabness, 115, 114. Surlingham Broad, 91. *Wrentham, 98. — Ferry [Norwich] , 91. *fWroxham [Norwich] , 93. *tSwaffham, 48. — Broad, 93. *tWymondham, 34. *tTerrington St. Clement, 28 •fThetford, 34. Tare Eiver, 91. Thornham, 58. *fYarmouth [Norfolk] , 88,87. J. S. LBTIN, Steam Printing Works, 75, Leaden hall Street, London, E.C. ©fwnritgfr (tar* ^foxiiux. N.B.—Communications respecting Advertisements should be addressed to "M. J. B. Baddeley, Bowness-on-Windermere." Only appropriate Advertisements are inserted. ALPHABETICAL INDEX to RAILWAYS, STEAMERS, HOTELS, HYDROPATHICS. Ac. Alphabetical order is strictly observed in this list t Railways. Page Caledonian . 9 Cambrian 8 Glasgow and South Western ...... 7 Great Western . 5 Midland 6 Midland Great Western (Ireland) 10 Steamers. Caithness, Orkney, and Shetland 11 Loch Lomond and Loch Long 13 Mac Brayne's (Glasgow and Highlands) ... 12 England. ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Coaches. Lynton, Lynmouth, and Barnstaple .... '_' Hotels, Hydropathics. Derbyshire (Peak district) 13-16 Devon and Cornwall 16-23 English Lake District 24-38 Ireland 38-42 Scotland ...... 44-64 Wales . 42-43 Miscellaneous. Boyd, Bookseller and Stationer, Oban .... 57 Buxton Lodgings 15 Dictionary of the Clyde 10 Fountain Baths, Matlock, F. Howe . 21 Ganson, Shetland 46 Holland, House Agent, Lodgings, Bowness-on- Windermere 38 Houldin, Mrs., Bookseller and Stationer, Amblesiie . 24 Portinscale Lodgings (Tower) 30 Shetland Goods, Laurenson & Co., North End, Lerwick . 46 Hydropathics. Shortest Place. Name. Telegraphic Address. Rothesay . Glenburn . Glenburn, Rothesay . . 61 Windermere . Windermere . . Hydro', Windermere . . 34 Hotels in England and Wales. Shortest Place. Name of Hotel. Telegraphic Address. Ambleside . . Queen's, S'tation Waterhead . . Queen's, Ambleside . . 24 Ashbourne . . Green Man . . Green Man, Ashbourne . 14 Bangor (Upper) George . . . . George Hotel, Bangor . 43 Bettws y-Coed . Royal Oak . . Oak, Bettws-y-Coed . . 42 Bideford . . . New Inn Hotel . Ascott, Hotel, Bideford . 16 »> Royal . . . . Royal Hotel, Bideford . 17 ,, Tanton's . . . Tanton's, Bideford . . 16 Bowness . . (SeeWindermere] Buxton . . . Crescent . . . Crescent Hotel, Buxton . 15 ,, George . . . George Hotel, Buxton . 15 Coniston . . . Crown . . . Crown Hotel, Coniston . 24 If Waterhead Waterhead, Coniston 25 Dartmoor . (See Princetown] Dovedale . . . Peveril of the ) Nearest at Ashbourne, \ 13 Peak. . . . [4m f Eskdale . . . Woolpack . . Nearest at Holmrook, 10 m. 25 Exeter . . . . New London . Pople, Exeter .... 18 . . 3 Shortest Telegraphic Address. Pane Plane. Name of Hotel. Hotel, Grasmere 2b Prince of Wales . Brown, Grasmere . • Rothay .... Rothay Hotel, Grasmere 27 Nearest at Elter water,2J m 26 Great Iiangfdale NewD'geonGhyll . London, Ivybridge . Xvy Bridge . London . . i 29 . Jeffery, Keswick Blencathra . Keswick . . • Hotel, Keswick. 28 . Wilson, ' Keswick . . . . . 29 . Queen's, Keswick Queen's . . • Keswick . . 30 Royal Oak . Koyal Oak, Keswick . 30 . . Askew's Bus, (Borrow dale) . Borrowdale Portinscale . . 31 Derwentwater . Harker, (Portinscale) . Hotel, Conway 43 • . Junction Jnc. Junction . Llandudno Lynmouth 19 . . Bevan, Hotel, Lyndale . Iiynmouth 21 Royal Castle Baker, Hotel, Lynton . Iiynton . • 20 Valley of Rocks. Hotel, Lynton Tyack, Hotel, Matlock- Bath . Matlock Bath . New Bath .16 V'toria Hotel,Menai-bdge. 43 Victoria . . Menal Bridge 19 . Queen's, Penzance . . • , Queen's Penzance 22 . Plymouth. . . • Grand, Plymouth . Grand at Minehead, 6 m. 18 Weir . Nearest Porlock . Porlock . . 23 • . Duchy, Princetown . • Prlncetown . Duchy at Pooley Br.,4m. 33 . • . Nearest Ullswater. . Howtown Patterdale . . 32 . Bownass, Ullswater . . Holmrook, 12 m. 36 . . Nearest at Wastwater . . Wastwater W'mere . 36 • . Crown Hotel, . Crown . • "Windermere Newby . Walker, Hotel, Lake Side . . Bridge 3? Hotel, Amble- Wood . . Lowwood Low 35* side Old England England,Windermere 35 (Bowness) . Old Windermere 34 r . Kigg, Hotel, Rigg's , 35 Royal (Bowness) Royal Hotel,Windermere W'mere, m. 37 . . Nearest at 4 (Troutbeck) . Mortal Man Hotels In Ireland. Shortest Hotel. Telegraphic Address. Paje Place. Name of Ardara . 38 . McNelis, Hotel, Nesbitt Arms . Ardara. . . Letterfraok . . 39 Renvyle House . Blake, Connemara . Dublin. 39 . Gresham Hotel, Dublin ... Gresham . . . CausewayHotel,Bushmills40 Cause Causeway . . Giant's Bush- . Kane, Causeway, Royal . . • way . . . mills 39 Eoyal Hotel, Killaloe . 42 . • • . Royal Kir aloe . Graham'sHotel,Killarneyd "m 41 . . . v^auaui Xillarney. . , Graham'sttranains 7Vt>-Vi iT « ai Bay View McLoone, Hotel,Killybegs 41 SLillybegs. . Royal . . e Hotels In Scotland. Shortest Place. Name of Hotel. Telegraphic Address. Page Aberfoyle . Bailie Nicol Jarvie . . . Blair, Aberfoyle . . . 44 Blair Athole . Athole . . Arms Hotel, Blairathole . .44 Braemar . . . Invercauld Arms Invercauld Arms, Braemar 45 Dalmally . . . Dalmally Hotel, Dalmally . . 54 Dunkeld . . . Royal . Fisher, Hotel, Dunkeld 46 Edinburgh . Clarendon Clarendon Hotel N ,49 Coekburn Coekburn Hotel 48 London London Hotel 49 . Edin- Regent Regent Hotel j 47 " burgh" Roxburgh Roxburghe Hotel 49 Waterloo The Waterloo 48 Windsor Windsor Hotel ' ^47 Glasgow . . Coekburn Coekburn Hotel, Glasgow 50 Glenaffric. , Glenaffric Hotel Nearest at Beauly, 17 m. 50 Glenelg , Glenelg Glenelg Hotel, Lochalsh 51 Znverness. . . Royal Royal Hotel, Inverness . 52 Victoria Victoria Hotel , Inverness 53, . Waverley Waverley Hotel, Inverness 51 Iierwick . Grand . Grand Hotel, Lerwick . 6a Loch Awe Loch Awe Fraser, Lochawe ... 54 Portsonachan Cameron, Portsonachan 55 Taycreggan . Taycreggan, Portsonachan 56 Xioch Lomond Tarbet . . Tarbet Hotel, Loch- lomond 56 Oban , Great Western . Western, Oban ... 58 King's Arms . . King's Arms, Oban . . 59 Royal . . . . Royal Hotel, Oban . . 58 (Kilmelford) Cuilfail. . . . Cuilfail Hotel, Kilmartin 60 Pitlochry . . Moulin . . . . Moulin Hotel, Pitlochry. 56 Portree . . Royal . . . . Royal Hotel, Portree . 62 St. Fillans . Drummond Arms Davie, St. Fillans ... 59 Shetland . . (see Lerwick Skye (Isle of) Broadford . . . Hotel, Broadford ... 62: Kyle Akin . . . Hotel, Kyleakin ... 62 Sligachan . . . Nearest at Poitree, 9 rn. 62 Strathpeffer Wallace, Strathpeffer . 64 ; GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY. TOURIST TICKETS, FIRST, SECOND & THIRD CLASS. Available for two Months, and renewable with exceptions, up to Dee. 31st, are issued in LONDON, during the Summer Months of each year at the following Stations and Offices : STATIONS. Oreat Western i Great Western Metropolitan District Rail- Railway. & metropolitan Railway. way. Paddington Railway. Mansion House Westbourne Park Aldgate Blackfriars Uxbridge Road Notting Hill Bishopsgate Charing Cross Kensington Latimer Road Moorgate St. Westminster Bdg. (Addison Road) Shepherd's Bush Farringdon St. Victoria ; - Victoria Hammersmith King's Cross South Kensington (L. C. & D. Sta.) I Earl's Court RECEIVING OFFICES. 5, Arthur St. I 43 &44,CrutchedFrs.|193, Oxford St. 126, Regent Street 4, Cheapside 67, G-resham St. 407, 269, Strand '29, Charing Cross | Holborn Circus [23, New Oxford St. [82, Qn. Victoria St. And at the Offices of Mr. Jakins, Red Cap, Camden Town ; Mr. Kingston, 11, Southampton Street, Fitzroy Square ; Mr. Myers, la, Pentonville Road, and 343, Gray's Inn Road ; also of Messrs. Cook & Son, Tourist and Excursion Agents, Ludgate Circus AND AT ALL PRINCIPAL STATIONS. To the following well-known Watering and other places of attraction. WEST OF ENGLAND DISTRICT, Barnstaple, Bodmin, Cleveuon, Dartmouth, DawlisH, Exeter, Falmouth, Fowey, Helston, Ilfracombe, Xiynton, Minehead, New Quay, Paignton, Penzance, Plymouth, Scilly Isle*, St. Ives, Teignmouth, Torquay, Weston-Super-Mare, Bridport, Dorchester, Weymouth, Channel Islands, Ac. NORTH AND SOUTH WALES DISTRICTS. Aherystwith, Bala, Bangor, Barmouth, Bettws-y-Coed, Blaenau Festiniog, Carnarvon, Corwen, Dolgelley, Llandudno, Llangollen, Penmaenmawr, Rhyl, Chepstow, Tintern, Cardigan, Swansea, Tenby, New Mill'ord, Ac. ENGLISH LAKE AND DERBYSHIRE DISTRICTS. Windermere, Purness Abbey, Ambleside, Buxton, Matlock. [Leamington, Malvern, Ross, Monmouth, Abergavenny, and to to Isle of Man, Waterford, Cork, Lakes ofKillarney, Dublin. Tourist and Ordinary Tickets are issued from and to the WEST of ENGLAND and the NORTH of ENGLAND and Scotland, in connection with the Express Service of Trains via the Severn Tunnel ; also from and to South Wales by the same S2rvice via Hereford. Tourists by the Great Western Line—the Broad Gauge Eoute to THE West of ENGLAND—pass through the most picturesque scenery in Devon- shire and Cornwall, extending from Exeter to Plymouth, Falmouth, St. Ives, Penzance and the Land's End ; while the Broad Gauge Carriages running in the Fast Express trains to and from the West of England, for which they have been specially built, are The Finest Railway Carriages in Ordi- nary Use in the Kingdom. For particulars of the various Circular Tours, Fares, and other information, see the Company's Tourist Programmes, which can be obtained at the Stations and Booking Otikes during the Tourist Season. Paddington Station, April, 1890. H. LAMBERT, General Manager, MIDLAND RAILWAY. The Picturesque Route between LONDON & MANCHESTER, & LIVERPOOL, Through Matlock and the Teak of Derbyshire. EXPRESS THAIAS PROM and TO ST. PANCRAS STATION. THE XOVBlsT JROUTJfi to SCOTLAND. Via SETTLE and CARLISLE. EXPRESS TRAINS from ST. PANCRAS, aUo from LIVERPOOL and MAN- CHESTER to EDINBURGH and GLASGOW, with connections to all parts of Scotland. Ordinary RETURN TICKETS between London and Stations in Scotland are available for one month. Tourist Tickets.—From Jday 1st to Oct. 31st Tourist Tickets are issued from LONDON, arid all principal Stations on the Midland System, to Glasgow* Edinburgh, Greenock, Ardrossat , Oban, Inverness, Aberdeen, and other places of Tourist Resort in Scotlaud ; to Malvern, Matlock, Buxton, llkley, Harrogate, Scarboro', Morecambe, Blackpool, Southport, Isle of Man, the English Lake District, and all ihe principal places of Tourist Resort on the Yorkshire and Lancashire Coasts ; and to Belfast, Portrush, Londonderry, Connemara, and the North of Ireland. Full particulars of the Fares, and arrangements respecting the issue of Tourist Tickets, are given in the Programmes inserted in the Company's Time Tables, or can be obtained at any of the Stations on the Midland Railway, on application, during the season. All Tourist Tickets issued to places in Scotland by Midland Route, at any time during the season, are available for the Beturn Journey, on any day, and by any train, up to and including the 31st of December. Carriage* —The through Trains of the Midland Railway Company are formed of Carriages of the most improved description, fitted with an efficient continuous automatic brake, and all the most approved modt rn appliances. Drawang* Room Saloon Cars A Slerpin&r Saloon Cars. Drawing Room Saloon Ca?*s are run in the principal Express Trains of the Midland Company between at. Pancras and Nottingham, Sheffield. Leeds, Brad- ford, Mar, Chester, Liverpool, Carlisle, and Glasgow; and Sleeping Saloon Cars between St. Pan eras and Manchester, Liverpool, Carlisle, Edinboro', and Glas- gow (also Perth during the summer months). Passengets holding First Class Tickets are allowed to ride ia the Drawing Room Saloon Cars attached to the Day Express Trains, without extra payment. A charge of 5s. per berth in the Sleeping Saloon Cars is made in addition to the First Class Fare. Dining- Saloon Cars are attached to the 5.0 p.m. Train from London (St. Pancrasj to Manchester, (passengers for Liverpoi.1 change into the other portion of the train at Manchester) and to the 5.20 pm. Tiamfrtm Manchester to London. (*-t. Pancras), into which Passengeis from Liverpool, etc., can change at Manchester; and to the 5.40 p.m. ft. Pancras to Nottingham, Sheffield, Leeos, and Bradford, and to the 6.15 p m. from Sheffield to St. Pancras. No extra charge, beyoid the sum payab e for the dinner will be macie. I In r il Cla»« r i« ketM are issued hy all Trains over the Midland system. Saloon. J .»milv and Invalid Carriage*'", fitte" with Lava- tories and every convenience, can be en^agtd for the use of parties, by giving a few days' notice at the Station, or to the Superintendent of the Line, Derby. I*ic-3tfi©, l*l« ii-ui «\ and School Parties are conveyed at Reduced Fares, particular of which can be obtained at the Stations oa the line Excursion Trains at very low fares will be run at intervals during the summer season to and from London. Liverpool, Manchester, Yorkshire, Birmingham, Nottingham, Derby, Lancaster, and Carlisle, and all the principal parts of the MidiaLd system, paiticulars of which will be announced fourteen days prior to the running of the Trains. Derby, 1890. JOHN NOBLE, General Manager. Glasgow & Sonth-Western Railway. Direct Route between Scotland and England. Through Trains are run between GLASGOW (St. Enoch) 8c LONDON (St. Pancras) Via the Glasgow & South Western and Midland Railways, Giving a Direct and Expeditious Service between GLASGOW, GREENOCK, PAISLEY, AYR, ARDROSSAN, KILMARNOCK, DUMFRIES, &c, and LIVERPOOL, MANCHESTER, BRAD- FORD, LEEDS, SHEFFIELD, BRISTOL, BATH, BIRMINGHAM, LONDON, &c. Drawing-Room and Sleeping Saloon Carriages Are run by the Morning and Evening Express Trains between Glasgow and London. LAVATORY CARRIAGES (First and Third Class) are run by the princip il Day Express Trains between Glasgow, Liverpool, Manchester, Bristol, London, &c. IEELAND via GREENOCK and via ARDROSSAN. A Nightly Skrvicb is given by Messrs. G. & J. Burns' Royal Mail Steamers via Greenock and vid Ardrossan, in connection with wliich Tourist Tickets are issued to Ejllarney, Cork, Connemara, "Giant's Causeway, &c. For particulars of sailings, see Time Tables and Newspaper Advertisements. FIRTH OF CLYDE & WEST HIGHLANDS, Vid Greenock. EXPRESS and Fast Trains are run at convenient hours between <3-i_,^sa-ow &. a-iE^EKsiNT ooiec (St. Enoch Station) (Lyndoch and Princes Pier Stations) In direct connection with the " Columba," "Iona," " Lord of the Isles," "Eagle," " Sultana," " Windsor Castle," and other steamers, sailing to and from KIRN, Dunoon, Innellan, Rothesay, Kyles of Bute, Ardrishaig, Oban, Inveraray, Kilcreggan, Kilmun, Lociigoilread, Garelocuhead, &c. Through Carriages are run by certain trains between GREENOCK (Princes Pier) and EDINBURGH ( Waverley), and by the Evening Express Trains in each direction between GREENOCK (Princes Pier) and LONDON (St. Pancras). Return Tickets issued to Coast Towns are available for Return AT ANY TIME. Passengers are landed at Princes Pier Station, from whence there is a Covered r Waj to the Pier where the Steamers call ; and Passengers' Luggage is conveyed free of charge between the Station and the Steamers. ARRAN and the AYRSHIRE COAST. From Ardrossan the splendid Saloon Steamer " Scotia " sails daily to and from the Island OP ARRAN in connection with the Express Train Service. An Express and Fast Train Service is given between Glasgow (St. Enoch), Paisley, and Troon, Prestwick, Aye, Ardrossan, Fairlie, Largs, &c. For Particulars as to Trains and Steamers, see the Company's Time Tables. JOHN MORTON, Secretary and General Manager. — , 8 CAMBRIAN RAILWAYS. Tours in Wales. BATHING, BOATING, FISHING (Sea, River & Lake), COACHING, MOUNTAINEERING. 1st, 2nd, and 3rd Class Tourist Tickets, Available for Two Calendar Months, renewable up to 31 st December, are issued from 1st May to 31st October at all the principal Stations in England and Scotland, and at Dublin, and other principal Stations in Ireland to Aberystwith, Aberdovey, Towyn, Dolgelley, Barmouth) Crlccleth, Borth, Harlech, Portmadoc, Pwllheli, Rhayader, Butlth Wells, and Brecon. The Scenery traversed by and adjacent to the Cambrian Railways is of an exceedingly varied and beautiful description, and the coast of Cardigan Bay, to which the line affords the most convenient access, offers great advantages for sea-bathing in the long reaches of firm, safe, and sandy beach, with which it abounds, and in its pure and bracing air. The mountain ranges of SNOWDON, CADER IDRIS, and PLYNLIMON, with their Rivers and Lakes, are also readily accessible from the various Watering-places, thus placing within the reach of visitors a delightful combination of the natural beauties of sea and land. Thy Valley of the Wye, through which the line to Brecon runs, also possesses great attractions for Tourists and Anglers. Arrangements are made during the Summer Months for the conveyance of Visitors by Coach to and from places of interest in the vicinity of the Coast Line at reduced charges,by which means,and also by the Festiniog, Talyllyn, and Corris miniature-gauge Kailways, whose termini are on the Cambrian system, the following amongst other places can easily be visited by daily Excursions :— Snowdon, Beddgfilert, Tan-y-bwlch, Festiniog Slate Quarries, Cwmbychan Lake. Mawddach Estuary, Precipice Walk and Torrent Walk (Dolgelley), Talyllyn Lake, Corris, Zilyfnant Valley, Rheidol Lake, Devil's Bridge, Alaentwrogr, Abersoch &.C. Special Tickets at Reduced Fares Are also issued between Local Stations to TOURISTS, and for FISHING, PIC-NIC and OTHER PARTIES. A Special Service of Express Trains Is run, daily during the^eason, in connection with Fast trains on the London and Northwestern and other Railways, with Through Carriages from and to London, Li verpool , Manchester, Birmi ngham Stafford, Shrewsbury, Hereford, Mertbyr, Cardiff, Newport (Mon.)&c. Through Carriages run daily throughout the year between London (Euston) and Aberystwith. "PICTURESQUE WALES'' (Illustrated). The Official Guide Book to the Cambrian Railways, edited by Mr. GODFREY TURNER, price 6d., can be obtained at the Bookstalls, or on application to the Company's Offices or Stations ; also of Messrs. W. J. Adams & Sons, 69, Fleet Street, London, E.C. Time-tables, Guide-books, Tourist Programmes and full particulars of Trains, Fares, &c. may be obtained at any of the Comp any 's Stations or Booking Offices, and at 34, James Street, Liverpool, or on applic ation to the undersigned. Also from Mr. G. T. Purnell, 55, High Street, Croydon, and at the uuder- mentioned offices of Messrs. Henry Gaze & Sons, Excursion Tourist Agents LONDON—142, Strand. Birmingham—Stephenson Place, New Street Sta ion. DUBLIN— 16, Suffolk Street. GLASGOW— 34, Gordon Street. Company's Office, Oswestry. J. CONACHER, Secretary and General Manager. 9 CALEDONIAN RAILWAY. CALEDONIAN RAILWAY COMPANY have arranged a system of THE River and Loch), and TOURS-over 100 in number-by Rail, Steamer (on Sea, Coach'^oTprehending almost every place of interest either for scenery or including— historical associations throughout Scotland, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen, Dundee, Inverness, Gourock, Greenock, Paisley, Dumfries, Moffat, Peebles, Callander, Stirling, Perth, Crieff, Dunkeld, Oban, Inveraray, Loch-Earn, The Trossachs, Loch-Katrine, Loch-Lomond, Loch-Eck, Loch-Tay, Loch- Awe, Caledonian Canal, Glencoe, Iona, Staffa, Firth Clyde, Skye, Balmoral, Braemar, Arran, Bute, The of The Falls of Clyde, Lowther Hills, Src. Caledonian Ifi^ TOURISTS are recommended to procure a copy of the descriptive notices of the Rairway Company's .« Tourist Guide," which contains They can be had at aj.y of the Districts embraced in the Tours, Maps, Plans, &c. on the London and North- Company's Station*, and also at the chief Stations Hotels, Hydro- western Railway. They ^re also supplied gratis to the chief Ireland. pathics, Steamboats, &c„ in Great Britain and Booking Offices at all the TickJts for these Tours are issued at the Company's irotn June to September inclusive. chief Towns. The Tourist Season extends the LONDON AND NORTH- The CALEDONIAN Railway, in conjunction with WESTERN Railway, forms what is known as the We&t Coast (Royal mail) Route between aCOTT,AMl* AMI* K M «* - A M ©. in S\ hours. , (Edinburgh (Princts Street) (Euston) and London [Q.ia, gow (C. ntral) in 8f hours. DIRECT TKAINS RUN FROM AND TO Paisley, Glasgow, Edinburgh, Avdrossav, Gou,ock, Greenock, Inverness, and Stranraer, Stirling, Oban, t'erth, Dundee, Aberdeen, other places in Scotland, TO AND FROM Preston, Pen- London (Euston), Birmingham, Liverpool, Manchester, other places in England. rith (for Lake District), Leeds, Bradford, and Through Guards and Conductors. Sleeping and Day Saloon Carriages, &c. connect The Company's Trains from and to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Carlisle, steamers also with the - Coluniba on the Clyde with the Caledonian S.S. Co/s ; - other Steamers to and from « Iona " « Lord of the Isles," Ivanhoe," and Kylesol Bute Arran IRELAND. lidland COMEMARA.—Public Cars run during the season, passing through Leenane, Kylemore, Letterfrack (for Renvyle), Clifdan, Recess (for Glenda- lough), and Oughterard. The Company's Is. Illustrated Handbook to the West of Ireland, Contains 16 full-paged toned Lithographs and numerous Wcodcuts. Apply to the Manager's Office, Broadstone, Dublin, where Programmes and all other information as to .Farei, Routes, Conditions, etc., may be obtained. VISITORS TO GLASGOW AND THE CLYDE Should procure the DICTIONARY OF THE CLYDE . A Descriptive, Historic, and Statistical Guide to the Towns, Villagi s, Watering Places. Mansions, Mountains, Islands, Lochs,. Docks, Harbours, Shipping, Industries, Sports, Pastimes, Legends, and Scenic Features of the River from Source to Sea. " Unquestionably the most coLcise, the most accurate, the most exhaustive, the handiest, and the cheapest of guide books." Industries. 300 Pages. Price, ONE SHILLING. Five Maps. To be had at Railway and River-boat Bookstalls ; from Menzies & Co.,. Glasgow and Edinburgh , Simpkin, Marshall, & Co., London, and all Book- sellers. — 11 Caithness, Orkney, and Shetland Steamers. 1 The North of Scot and and Orkney and Shetland Steam Naviga- tion Company's Steamships, " St. Bognvald," " St. Magnus,'* " St. Nicholas," " St. Clair," "St. Olaf," and "Queen," are in- tended to sail during the SUMMER MONTHS as under, but the arrangements are subject to alteration from month to month : From Leith in the morning, and from Aberdeen same afternoon or evening : To Lerwick every Wednesday, and Friday. To Scalloway and West Side of Shetland every Monday. To Kirkwall every Wednesday and Friday. To Stromness every Monday. To St. Margaret's Hope every Monday. To Thurso every Monday. To Wick every Mouday and Friday. To Stornoway, during May and June, every Monday. Returning South : From Lerwick every Monday and Friday (or Saturday). From Scalloway every Wednesday evening. . From Kirkwall every Tuesday and Saturday. From Stromness every Thursday.. From St. Margaret's Hope every Thursday. From Stornoway every Wednesday evening. From Thurso every Thursday morning. From Wick every Tuesday forenoon and Thursday afternoon. The Royal Mail Steamer " St. Olaf," from Stromness every week-day during April, May, June, July, August, and September at 3 p.m., touching at Scapa Pier (Kirkwall), thence to Scrabster Pier (Thurso), now calls going to Scrabster, and all afte/noon sailings, summer and winter, landing Mail-bag by Boat at South Ronaldshay. From Scrabster Pier (Thurso), on receiving the Mails, about 8 p.m., and touching at Scapa Pier, thence to Stromness. Throughout the rest of the year, the " St. Olaf " leaves Stromness at 2 p.m. for Scrabster Pier, returning from Scrabster Pier about 7.30 p.m., touching at Scapa Pier going and returning. PASSAGE FARES. From Albert Dock, Leith. From Aberdeen. 1st 2nd. ! 1st 2nd Cabin. Cabin. Cabin. Cabin. To Wick 18s. 9s. Od. To Wick 12s. 7s. Od. To Thurso 18s. 9 s. Od. To Thurso 12s. 7s. Od. To St. Margaret's Hope 20s. 9s. Od. To St. Margaret's Hope 16s. 7s. Od. To Stromntss- - - - 20s. 9s. Od. To Stromness - - - 16s. 7s. 04 To Kirkwall - - - - 22s. 10s. 6d. To Kirkwall - - - - 18s. 8s. Od. To Lerwick .... 26s. 10s. 6d. To Lerwick - - - - 21s. 8s. 6d. To Scalloway - - - 26s. - - - - 10s. 6d. | To Scalloway 21s. 8s. 6d. From Scalloway to places on West side 5s. 2s. 6d. From Lerwick to places in North Isles 6s. 3s. Od. 33J~ Return Tickets available to return within three Calendar Months, are issued at the rate of a Single Fare and a half, with liberty to the holders to break the journey at any of the Ports of Call. Scrabster to Pcapaand Stromness, First Cabin, 6s. Second Cabin, 8s. Scapa to St. Margaret's Hope & Stromness „ 2s. „ Is. St Margaret's Hope to Stromness „ 3s. „ Is. 6d. St. Margaret's Hope to Scrabster „ 4s. „ 2s. Return Tickets issued to or from Orkney and Shetland by the other Vessels belonging to the Company, are NOT A VA1LABLE by the Mail Steamer " St. Olaf" across the Pentland Firth. Return Tickets are issued for that passage only, at the usual rate, Firbt-class Hotel accommodation at Lerwick, Scalloway, Kirkwall, Stromness, Wick, and Thurso. For further particulars, including days and hours of sailing, gee Monthly Sailing Bills, which may be had on application to Gbohge HOURSTON. Agent, 64, Constitution Street, Leith Charles Meurylees, Manager, Aberdeen. & ' royal ^jtmmukijMsma^ : route. GLASGOW and the HIGHLANDS Vid Crinan and Caledonian Canals. ROYAL MAIL STSAMERS Columba Glencoe Clansman Loanda Iona Lochawe Flowerdale Gladiator Fusilier Lochness Clydesdale Pelican Chevalier Lochiel Cavalier Falcon Grenadier Linnet Staffs Udea Gondolier Fingal Ethel Texa Pioneer Islay Handa Countess Glengarry Claymore Mabel Margaret Inveraray Castle THE KOYAL MAIL SWIFT PASSENGER STEAMER 'COLUMBA' or 'IONA' Sails daily from May till October, from Glasgow at 7 a.m., and from Greenock at 8.50, Prince's Pier about 9, GourockPier about 9.20, and Dunoon about 9.35, in connection with Express Trains from London and the South, Edinbuigh, Glasgow, &c., for Kyles of Bute, Tarbert, and Ardrisbaig, conveying passengers ior Oban, Glencoe, Inverness, Lochawe, Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine, the Trossachs, Staffa and Iona, Mull, Skye, Gairloch, Lochinver, Stornoway, Thurso, &c. A WHOLE DAYS SAIL BY THE 'Ci>LUMBA' , OR "IONA." From Glasgow to Ardrisbaig and Back (180 miles.) Cabin Fare 6s. Breakfast, Dinner and Tea, in Cabin, 6s. Fore Cabin Fare, 3s. 6d. do. do. do. in Fore- Cabin, 3s. 6d. TOURS TO THE WEST HIGHLANDS (occupying about a week) By Steamship ' < CLAYMORE or < CLANSMAN/ Vid Mull of Kintyre, going and returning through the Sounds of Jura, Mull, and Skye, calling at Oban, Tobermory, Portree, STOHNO WAY, and intermediate places. Cabin Return Fare with superior sleeping accommodation, or including meals. The Route is through scenery rich in historical interest and unequalled for grandeur and variety. These vessels leave Glasgow every Monday and Thursday about 12 noon, and Greenock about 6 p.m., returning from Stornoway every Monday and Wednesday. The Steam-Ship 'CAVALIER' will leave Glasgow every Monday at 11 a.m. and Greenock at 4 p.m., for Inverness and Back (via Mull of Kintyre), leaving Inverness every Thursday morning ; Cabin Fare for the Trip, with First-class Sleeping Accommodation, or including Meals. Official Guide Book, 6ct. Time Bill, Map and List of Fares, sent free on application to the Owner DAVID MAGBRAYNE, 119, Hope Street, Glasgow. 13 JJorth Jrtttsh Jltcam gaqlu-t flfompng. LOCH LOMOND, QUEEN OF SCOTTISH LAKES. Splendid Saloon Steamers sail daily from Balloch Pier in direct connection with North British Trains from Ediuburgh, Glasgow, 99 > Main Street, Alexandria, N.B. PEVERIL OF THE PEAK HOTEL, Pleasantly situated close to this beautiful valley. TESTIFIED CUISINE, NICE APARTMENTS, HOME COMFORTS, MODERATE TARIFFS, and GOOD FISHING. CAREIAGES by order meet trains at Ashbourne, North Staffordshire Railway. G-. POYSER, Proprietor. Postal Address :—Thorpe, near ASHBOURNE. Nearest Telegraph at Ashbourne, 4 miles. — — 14 i K 11 It O I K I E. [The nearest Railway Station to DOVEDALE.) GREEN MAN AND BLACK'S HEAD ( Jamilg and (Eommerrial Jesting louse.) OMNIBUSES to and from EVERY TRAIN. BILLIARDS. Extract from Boswell's " Life of Dr. Johnson," September, 1771: " After breakfast I departed and pursued my journey northwards. I took my post chaise from the Green Man, a very good Inn at Ashbourne, the Mistress of which, a mighty civil gentlewoman, courtseying very low, presented me with an Engraving of the sign of her house, to which she had subjoined in her own handwriting an address in such singular simplioity of style, that I have preserved it, pasted upon one of the boards of my original Journal at this time, and shall here insert it for the amusement of my readers : '? M. Killingleys duly waits upon Mr. Boswell, is exceedingly obliged to him for this favor ; whenever he comes this way, hopes for a continuance of the same ; would Mr. Boswell name the house to his extensive acquaintance, it would be a singular favor conferred on one who has it not in her power to make any other return but her most grateful thanks and sincerest prayers for his happiness in time and in a blessed eternity." FANNY WALLIS, Proprietress. 15 §tvhp\xixt Shortest Telegraphic Address:—" Crescent Hotel, Boxton." CRESCENT HOTEL, FIRST-CLASS for Families and Gentlemen. Best situation. Forms wing of the Orescent. Due South aspect. Close to Railway Stations. Covered Colonnade to Baths, Wells and G-ardens. Dining, Drawing, Billiard, Smoke, and Reading Rooms. The Dining Saloon is acknowledged to be one of the fine3t rooms in the kingdom. Suites of apartments for Families. Rooms on ground floor level if required. TABLE D'HOTE AT SEPARATE TABLES. EXCELLENT CUISINE. CHOICE WINES. BILLIARDS. JOHN SMILTER, Proprietor* BUXTON. THE GEORGE FAMILY HOTEL, A First-class House, adjoining the Baths and Pavilion Gardens; near the Church and Railway Station ; Suites of Rooms, without staircases, for Invalids; Public Dining and Drawing Rooms; Private Sitting Rooms; Billiard, Reading, and Smoke Rooms. Every convenience pertaining to a good modern Hotel. Moderate Terms. The House is detached, and has a splendid situation; well sheltered. In connection with New Bath Hotel, Matlock Bath. For Terms apply to MILL & TYACK, Proprietors. BUXTON. 1, Hartington Terrace. Superior and select apartments, every comfort and excellent cooking. Elevated situation nearly 1,100 feet above the sea level, and south-west aspect. At the south end of the Broad Walk, close to the Pavilion and Gardens, and five minutes walk from the Baths. Train or coach to Chatsworth, Haddon Hall, Matlock, Dove Dale, Castleton, and the romantic scenery of the Peak of Derby- shire. Express trains to London 4J hours, Manchester 40 minutes. " Personally recommended by the author of the " Thorough Guide Series. Address: Mrs. £l. A. BRADBURY, 1, Hartington Terrace, West Street, Buxton. 16 §txty$\tlvt —§evm\$\\m, MATLOCK BATH. VY&C&'B MEM B&1H HOTE&, Recently enlarged and newly furnished. A first class family house, with every comfort and modern improvement. Beautifully situated amidst its own charming grounds of twelve acres, from whence the most lovely views in Derbyshire can be seen. Very large Dining room, Drawing room, Billiard room, and private Sitting rooms. A large Swimming Bath in the hotel, and Hot Baths. Fishing. Lawn Tennis. A 'Bus to meet each train. Terms strictly moderate. T. Tyack, Proprietor. THE OLDEST, LARGEST $ PRINCIPAL HOTEL in the TOWN. 1IW IIS WAWIWE lifil, BIDEFOKD, Family, Commercial, and General Posting House. HENRY ASCOTT, Proprietor. 11 miles from Ciovelly; pleasantly situated in the most central part of the town, and commanding very extensive views. Booking Office for Coaches to- Ciovelly and Bude. TUTOR'S HOTEL, BIDEFORD. large and Well-Appointed COFFEE, COMMERCIAL AND BILLIARD ROOMS. HOT & COLD BATHS. Posting in all its Branches. OMNIBUSES MEET EVERY TRAIN. W. GIDDIE, Proprietor. — 17 §tvm#Mtt. CENTRAL FOR THE WHOLE OF NORTH DEVON, Including WESTWARD HO! CLOVELLY, HARTLAND, BUDE, ILFRACOMBE, and LYNTON. Four-in-hand Coaches in the Season to above places. Adjoining Overlooking HOTEL, the River Railway ROYAL TORRIDGE and Station. BIDEFORD. OLD BRIDGE. THE MOST MODERN HOTEL IN THE WEST OF ENGLAND, ETer7 ury CONTINENTAL en and iT I f A™=&ats « | COURTYARD. I Superbly Furnished and lofty Booms, Hot and Cold Baths, Elegant Billiard Saloon (Two Tables). COMPLETELY SHELTERED FROM E. & N.E. WINDS. Delightful summer and winter resort, one of the mildest and healthiest in the Kingdom. Specially Reduced Winter Tariff. Finest Stabling horsefindSagesl SaY6 OMNIBUS and Lock-up 01 Coachhouse in Devonshire. •KSMT I and PORTERAGE. For situation the Royal is probably unequalled in the North of Devon, and from its size and the admirable way in which it is fitted out must be regarded as one of the best Hotels in the West of England. It stands amid the interesting spots and " " charming scenery made notorious by Westward Ho ! and is within easy distance of the many romantic nooks with which the North Devon coast abounds. A portion of the house was built in the year 1688 by an old merchant prince, and contains a magnificent oak staircase and drawing room, which are objects of admiration and interest. The ceiling of the latter has the reputa- tion of being one of the grandest in the country. The work com- prises festoons of flowers, fruit, and foliage in high relief, and was the workmanship of Italian artists specially commissioned two hundred years ago. In this room also Charles Kingsley wrote a portion of " Westward Ho !" and on one of the panels hangs a portrait (said to be from the brush of Vandyke) of John Strange, the great grandfather of Rose Salterne (the fickle " Rose of the Torridge"), immortalised by Kingsley in "Westward Ho!"— Vide Public Press. Bideford.—Chiefly remarkable for having a first-rate hotel. Punch, Oct. 5% 1889. 2 19 POPLE' S 111 LONDON HOTEL :e ix: ei t ej k,. re-furnished and re-decorated. For Families and Gentlemen. This first-class Hotel has long stood pre-eminent, and is patronised by the leading County families. Adjoining Northern- hay Park and within three minutes' walk of the Cathedral. TABLE D'HOTE. NIGHT PORTER. Large Covered Continental Courtyard. POSTING ESTABLISHMENT. Omnibuses and Cabs meet all Trains. Also Proprietor of the Globe Hotel, Newton Abbot. Telegrams to "POPLE, EXETER." PORLOCK. PORLOCK WEIR HOTEL (Anchor) (Vid Minehead, Somersetshire). This Hotel is situated on the shore of Porlock Bay, close by the sea, and in the rich and lovely Vale of Porlock. It is in the centre of the Stag and Fox-Hunting country, and at the foot of Exmoor, whose wild and beautiful recesses are most conveniently visited from it. Every comfort ensured. Fishing and Shooting. Good Stabling ; Post-Horses and Carriages. Hotel 'bus to principal Trains. J. P. GODDARD Proprietor. %* The Proprietor has also a Private Lodging Eouse. 19 Lynmouth, North Devon. AND (Under the same management). First Class, with every convenience for Families and Tourists, is most beautifully situated on an eminence, with all front rooms commanding the grandest uninterrupted views of the Harbour, Bristol Channel, Woods and Hills, and the best Landscape Scenery in the North of Devon ; also overlooking the East and West Lyns, and within three minutes' walk to the Beach ; standing in its own very extensive grounds. Good Trout and Salmon Fishing. Lawn Tennis. Cheap Boarding terms. Write for Tariff with Photo* showing position of Hotels. WILLIAM BEVAN, Proprietor. Lighted with Electric Light, and fitted with all recent im- provements. All Coaches stop outside the Hotels to take up and put down Passengers. &EHEAJSKSB. SEA-SIDE.—THE QUEEN'S. (On the Esplanade. Facing due South). , Patronized by Her Majesty the Queen of Holland. THIS Hotel is the Principal and Largest, and is most comfortably fur- nished. It has a frontage of over 170 feet, all the rooms of which overlook the Bay and St. Michael's Mount. For Families, Ladies and Gentlemen only. Apartments en mile. Penzance stands unrivalled for the quiet beauty and variety of its 6cenery, Whilst the mildness and equability of its climate are admirably adapted to invalids. Ladies' Drawing, Reading, Coffee, Smoking and Billiard Rooms. Hot and Cold Baths. Table d'Hdte. An Omnibus meets every train. Posting in all its branches. Yachts, &c. ALEX. H. II OK A, Proprietor. 20 §tvtm$\\tit. VALLEY OF ROCKS HOTEL Fitted with Electric UgJit, and all the most modern conveniences. "Ths position of the splendid new Valley of HQCkl Hotel is absolutely unequalled and unparalleled in the South of England."—Daily Telegtaph, April 7th, 1890. COMMANDS UNRIVALLED VIEWS. Salmon and Trout Fishing. Billiards. Post Horses, Carriages. Luxurious suites of Private Apartments, elegant Salle a manger, Ladies' Drawing Koom, range in a long front facing the Sea. Best routes to Lynton, G.W.R., book to Minehead, where on and after June 1st, Valley Of Hocks Coacll meets trains leaving Minehead 1 p.m., and Paddington, 9 a.m., or L. & S.W.R. via Barnstaple, where Mail Coach meets train. Coaches to and from Ilfracombe. Carriages meet trains at Minehead, Barnstaple, and Ilfracombe on receipt of telegram to "Hotel, Lynton." Proprietors : The Lynton & Lynmouth Hotel & Property Company, Ld. JOHN HEYWOOD, Resident Director. Telegraphic Address, "HOTEL, LYNTON." 21 LYtiTON, NORTH DEVON, ROYALCASTLEjsttFAMILYHOTEL PATRONISED by the English and Continental Royal Families. First-class Hotel, especially favourite and attractive. Table d'hote. Reading and Drawing Rooms. New Smoking and Billiard Pavilions, all facing tne Sea. Magnificent Views and Ornamental Grounds of Twelve Acres* Private Hotel Attached, THOMAS BAKER, Proprietor. (HATLOCK BATH). LARGE SWIMMING BATH 68 degrees Fahrenheit. this 600,000 gallons of clear spring water flow through Bath daily. Swimming taught. HOT BATHS, SHOWER & DOUCHE BATHS. the For further information apply to W. E. HOWE, Library, Matlock Bath. 22 §mvMvt—$Qmwut. COACHING. LYNTON, LYNKOUTB, and BARNSTAPLE. THE WELL-APPOINTED PAST POUR-HORSE COACH " T AM XI V Y" (CARRYING THE MAILS), RUNS DAILY THROUGHOUT THE YEAR (Sundays excepted), in connection with the Trains of L. & S. W. Railway passing through some of the finest Scenery in Devonshire. nto dep. 8 0a.m. , Waterloo dep.9 Barnstaple^ f 0am ^ arr.10 55 „ Barnstaple ar?.3 2ipS" Waterloo * * ll * % ^l m , yr,ton ... Z Z Z J? also convenient SJ ^ for train leaving Paddington 9 a.m., arriving at Lynton 6 30 p.m. ... AN ADDITIONAL COACH a SUnd ayS eXCe ted) duriDg the montlls of Jul A and SpntPmLr hiiJ T + f ^ ^st, nt nmouth ai><* °^' » Barnstaple, in connection with ttln^a 7v ^ VMto M UndGr b^^onvenient for L^tJ?l ^ ' Up. Down. Lynton dep. 12 noon Waterloo dep. 11 a.m. Barnstaple .. .. arr. 3 p.m. Barnstaple .. .. arr. 4 43 p.m. dep. » 3 21 dep. 4 50 w»terloo arr. 10 10 Lynton arr. 7 40 LYNTON, BIDEFORD, CLOVELLY, WESTWARD HO! BUDE AND NORTH CORNWALL. "' deP a m ' 12 DOODBude ••• dep.^nim. 45 a. Barnstaplett^2Li« 'i? 2 o , 9 „ 11 8 „ 3 26 p.m. Clovellv „ 12 15 15 n Bideford nm 12 „ 1131 „ 3 46 „ i Bideford 2 53 2 63 Clovelly I ^ arr. p.m. I 1 5 15 „ Barnstaple „ 3 40 „ 5 8 " " thro&g| TiciBTs ^' 40 ' Booking J^JawTSkCs^^ Office, opposite VALLEY of ROCKS HOTEL, LYNTON. JONES BROS, House Agents, Proprietors, Lynton. mm^mmm«_-__.^_____^^^__ PLYMOUTH. [©TEL (on tk Hoe). The only Hotel with Sea View. Mail Steamers anchor in sight, Also, at IVY BRIDGE (H miles from Plymouth), @fo London §ri«l, Hunting*, Fishing*. Beautiful Scenery JAMES BOHN, Proprietor. 23 r Seuon. DUCHY HOTEL, PRINCETOWN, This First Class Family Hotel is situated in the very centre of Dartmoor, and is one of the highest hotels in the country, being about 1,400 feet above the sea-level. * Visitors to Dartmoor will do well to make this their headquarters, Dartmeet, Post Bridge, Wistman's Wood, Crockern Tor, Mis Tor, and various other places of interest being situated within easy distances. Good Trout and Salmon Fishing may be obtained from March 1st to September 31st in the East and West Darts and tributaries, licenses for which may be obtained at this Hotel. Good Snipe and other shooting may also be had. Several Packs of Foxhounds and Harriers meet in the neighbourhood. "DUCHY HOUSE," recently built to meet the increased demand for accom- modation, is within two minutes' walk from the Duchy Hotel. A First-Class Boarding and Lodging House, containing all the most modern improvements and conveniences. Private Sitting Booms. This will be found to be a most suitable house for private families staying any length of time. Good Posting*. Excellent Dairy. Tariff and Boarding Terms on application. MARTHA ROWE, Proprietress (for 40 years.) 24 THE HOTEI, AMBLKSIIHI. (Adjoining Steam Boat Pier. Terminus op the Furness & Midland Eailway Systems.) Michael Taylor, Proprietor of the SALUTATION and QUEEN'S Hotels (both ot which will be carried on by him as heretofore) has taken over the above first-class Hotel (recently enlarged and re-fumished), which will be conducted on a liberal and popular tariff. Taylor's FOUR-IN-HAND COACHES run from the three Hotels to Keswick, Coniston, Ullswater, and the Langdales daily during the season, Sundays excepted. Boats, Fishing Tackle, &c. A. HOULDIN, ioofcsolkr, ^fatifliwr, and Dealer in Janrg (Hoods, lake eoad, AMBLEIIDE. Frith's Photographs of the Lake District. London, Liverpool, Manchester and other Papers supplied. CROWN HOTEL, CONISTON. Within tbree minutes' walk of the Railway Station and five from the lake. Choice Wines and Spirits, &e. Post Horses and Conveyances. BOATS ON THE LAKE. BILLIARDS. Conveyances to meet the Trains, JAS. DOVE, Proprietor. 25 002STIST03ST LJLKIE. TYSON'S ITERHEAD HOTEL IV. Address : " Waterhead, Coniajon." Tills first-class Establishment is one of the most delightfully situated Hotels in the district. It stands in its own pleasure grounds, which are tastefully laid out, and has a large private frontage to the Lake, with shaded and beautiful walk* leading to the Landing-stage of the " Gondola." CROQUET AID TEMIS LAWN. BOATS, BILLIARDS. Postal Telegraph Station at Conlston. Open and closed Carriages. Post Horses. An Omnibus meets all Trains. JOSEPH TYSON, Proprietor. ESKDALE. Postal Address : —Eskdale, Boot, via Carnforth. Telegraphic Address : —Woolpack, Ravenglass. This ancient Inn has been recently enlarged and fitted up with Hot and Cold Baths, also refurnished for the accommodation of Tourists and Visitors. It is centrally situated in the beautiful valley of Eskdale between Scawfell, Seawfell Pikes, Bowfell, and Harter Fell. Esk Falls and Stanley Gill, the finest scene of its kind in the country, are within easy reach. One mile from Boot Station. Conveyances kept. Dixon filmrpe, Proprietor. (fetish fpafciA DUNGEON GHYLL NEW HOTEL, GREAT LANGDALE, Near AMBLESIDE, The nearest Hotel to Dungeon Ghyll and the Lang^ale Pikes. Most conveniently situated for the a cent of Scawfell and Bow- fell ; or for crossing the Passes to Wastwater, Borrowdale, &c. The best guides, conveyances, and mountain ponies may be had at the Hotel ; also all information respecting mountains and mountain passes. JOS. YOUDELL. Proprietor. Board and lodging (except In August) 35s. a week. This Hotel holds the Official Appointment of the General Toubist's Club. It is also He *d -quarters of the C. T. C. The very heart of the Lake District, the most Central Place from which to make Excursions to all the other Lakes and Mountains. fHI 3P!IifSI Off WAMS LAKE HOTEL, Patronised by H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES, PRINCE ARTHUR, and the Nobility. Beautifully situated on the margin of the Lake. 1ULIARDS, LAWN TENNIS, BOATING, ETC. POSTING IN ALL ITS BEANCHES. Char-a-bancs or Coaches to Ullswater, Coniston, Langdales, and Keswick during the season. Omnibuses meet the Steamboats at Waterhead. Mrs. SHOWN, Proprietress. ) 27 (2%e Home of Pedestrians. — Central point of the Lake District. COWPERTHWAITE'S G RAS MER E. Delightfully situated in its own grounds of several acres, on the banks of the Eothay, and the nearest hotel to the resting- place t>f Wordsworth and Hartley Coleridge in Grasmere Church- yard. Tills Hotel is under entirely new management and has been refurnished and redecorated. Its position in the very heart of the loveliest scenery of English Lakeland, and on the coach -route from Windermere to Keswick, renders it an unsurpassed head- quarters from which to make excursions in all directions. The places conveniently visited from it by carriage include Kydal (the home of Wordsworth), Ambleside, Windermere, Coniston, the Langdales, Thirlmere, Keswick, and Patterdale (Ullswater) ; there are direct pony-tracks to Easedale Tarn, Borrowdale, Derwentwater, Ullswater, and the tops of Helvellyn and Fairfield; while the pedestrian has the greatest possible choice of routes. Omnibuses to and from the Hotel every half-hour in connection with, Windermere Steamers. Special wrote. —Public Coaches to Keswick, Coniston, Ulls- water, the Langdales and Windermere. PONIES AND GUIDES. lawn Tennis* Billiards. Boating, Fishing. Parties, coming to the Hotel or to other places in the village can have conveyances to meet them at Windermere, Ambleside (Waterhead), or Keswick on application. Telegraph: " Roth ay Hotel, Grasmere." J. COWPERTHWAITE, Proprietor. Late of Mr. Frassr's Loch Awe Hotel, Arayleshire, 28 gnfltteb fafw. 29 LAKE DERWENTWATER. QUEEN'S HOTEL, KESWICK. This Hotel is the principal and largest in the town, is entirely under new management, and will be found replete with every comfort, having been redecorated and refurnished throughout. Extensive and uninterrupted views of Skiddaw, Sad- dleback, Lake Derwentwater, and the surrounding scenery. Billiards, Hot and Cold Baths, and every accommodation required in a First Class Hotel. Head Quarters for the Cyclist Touring* Club. COACHES TO ALL PARTS OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. Posting in all its Branches. An Omnibus and Porters meet all Trains at the Station Door. PARTIES BOARDED BY WEEK OR MONTH. H. BOWNASS, Proprietor. KESWICK, CUMBERLAND. JEFFERY'S "BLENCATHRA" HOTEL. First-Class Temperance Commercial House. This Old-Established Leading Temperance Hotel is situated close to the Station, and commands extensive and uninterrupted views of the charming scenery of the Lake District. Ladies' Public Drawing-room. Fine Coffee and Commercial Rooms. Hot and Cold Baths. Potting in all Departments. 'Bus meets all Trains. Telegrams to be addressed to JEFFERY, Blencathra, Keswick. 80 (Stofltfeu pfat*. DERWENTWATER LAKE. THE ROYAL OAK HOTEL KESWICK. Telegraphic Address :—HOYAL OAK, KESWICK." Patronised by tfLdl^LJik H.R.H. The Late Queen Dowager, Kp5§g5"*§! The Prince of Wales. The King of Saxony. The Grand Duke Constantine of Russia, $c, Stc. An Omnibus and Porters meet the Trains at the Station Door. A, Coach to Buttermere every morning: at lO. E. BOWDEN, Proprietor. DERWENTWATER, KESWICK This Hotel is situate at the bead of Derwentwater and commands unequalled views of the Lake and Mountain Scenery of this romantic district. Special Boarding arrangements. 'BUS FROM KESWICK STATION, 6d. POSTING. MOUNTAIN PONIES, BOATS, FISHING TACKLE, ETC. Postal Address : " Borrowdale Hotel, Keswick." Telegraphic : " Askew's 'Bus, Keswick." W. ASKEW, Proprietor. fHI 1©WI1> 70STIH804£B» (One Mile from Keswick.) One of the most charmingly situated Private Boarding and Lodging Houses in the Lake District. Stands in its own Grounds. Commands views of the whole of Derwentwater, Bassenthwaite Lake, the Vale of Keswick, and the surrounding mountains. Ten minutes' walk from Crosthwaite Church, five from the Lake. Derwentwater Hotel 'Bus meets the trains and coaches to and from all parts in connection with the Tower. J. CARTMELL, Lessee. Postal Address : Portinscale, Keswick. Telegraphic Address : Portinscale. 31 €«p0tt W%kt$. BO ^TS. PONIES. LAWN TENNIS. Close to the Church. COACHES TO ALL FARTS 32 si •3 ° Tariff on Application. n3 -p TABLE D'HOTE 7 P.M. Howtown is situated by the side of the beautiful bay at the end of the first reach of Ullswater. It is 4 miles from Pooley Bridge (nearest Tel. Of.), 6 from Patterdale, 9 from Penrith Station, 5 from the majestic "High Street," and 1£ hours' walk from Haweswater. Good fishing may be enjoyed in the Lake close by. Pleasure boats and Guides. Steam yacht calls 3 times a day both ways. Parties taken in to Board and Lodge on reasonable terms. Mrs. FARRER, Proprietress. LOW WOOD HOTEL, WINDERMERE. ONE OF THE OLDEST ESTABLISHED HOTELS IN THE LAKE DISTRICT. Beautifully situated close to, and overlooking, the finest expanse of Windermere Lake, with the loftiest cluster of English mountains, including Scawfell, Bow- fell, the Langdale Pikes, and the Coniston Old Man, in the background ; also within a few minutes' walk of the famous Troutbeck Boad view of Windermere. Centrally situated for excursions, on the high road from Windermere to Keswick, and easily accessible from all parts of the district. Steamboat pier, at which all steamers call, opposite the door. Coaches and omnibuses to and from Winder- mere Station (3 miles) for every train. May, 1890. JOHN LOGAN, Proprietor. 84 RIGG'S WINDERMERE HOTEL, WIN&ERIttERE. (Nearest First Clnss Hotel in the Lake District to the " West Coast" route to Scotland.) At this establishment Families and Tourists will meet with every accommodation. The Hotel is most beautifully situated on an eminence, commanding views of the Lake, Mountain, and Landscape Scenery, which are unsurpassed by any in the Lake District ; and also within a convenient distance of the Windermere Railway Station. Spacious Coffee and Drawing Rooms, Private Drawing Rooms, also Billiard and Smoking Rooms, Postal and Telegraph arrangements excellent. Tariff, with full information, forwarded upon application. The Royal Mail Four-Horse Stage Coaches run from this Hotel and the Windermere Railway Station daily (Sundays excepted), to and from Ambleside, Rydal, Grasmere Lake, Grasmere, Wyth- burn, Thirlmere, and Keswick-on-Derwentwater. For times of arrival and departure see London and North Western Railway Time Tables at all their Stations. Private Carriages or Omnibuses can be secured to meet the Trains at Windermere to convey families to other parts of the Lake District. Tel. Address i " Rigg, Hotel, Windermere." Mat, 1890. JOHN RIGG, Proprietor. WlftDEItJHKJtti HYDROPATHIC. The only. Hydropathic in the Lake District. Affords every convenience for pleasure and health seekers. Panoramic Views of Lake, Wood and Moun- tain. Pour-in-hand Coaches start from the House daily. The largest Dining and Drawing Eooms in the dis- trict. Bedrooms unusually capacious and well ventilated. Massage and Pumiline preparations in connection with Turkish and other Baths. Illustrated Prospectus. Address: The Manager. 85 OLD ENGLAND HOTEL, BOWNESS-OIT-WnrDEaMEEB, (Telegraphic Address- " Old England, Windermere.") Within a hundred yards of the steamboat pier. A First-class Hotel, patronised by the Nobility and best English and American families. The Grounds extend to the Lake, with private Boat-Landings. Billiards, Hot and Cold Baths, Lawn Tennis, &c. Head Quarters of the Royal Windermere Yacht Club. Four-ln-Hand Coaches dally throughout the season to Cohlston, Ketwick, UlIswater, and the district generally. Omnibuses attend all Trains at Windermere Station ; also, at the steamboat pier, the boats from Lake Side (terminus of the Midland and Furnees route) and Ambleside. TARIFF ON APPLICATION. Mrs. RICHARDS, Proprietress. B0WlO!SS-0tf-WraEE,MERE, IS THE OLDEST ESTABLISHED HOTEL IN THE LAKE DISTRICT. A Coffee Room is set apart for Ladies and Parties. Coaches to all parts of -the District. Private Conveyances of every Description. " Teh Address : Royal r Bowness^ Windermere." 86 CROWN HOTEL, BOWNESS-ON-WINDERMERE. Delightfully situated, immediately overlooking the Lake. Coaching and Posting to all parts daily. Omnibuses and Servants attend all Trains and Steamers. Tariff on Application. F. GAENETT, Proprietress. Telegrams: CROWN, WINDERMERE. WASTWATER HOTEL, WASDALE. GREATLY ENLARGED. Postal Address:—" Wasdale, Gosforth, vi& Carnforth. Situated 1 mile above the head of the famous Wastwater, at the foot of the loftiest cluster of mountains in England, including Scawfell Pike, Scawfell, Great Gable, and the Pillar, and approached by the most romantic pony-tracks in the kingdom from all parts of the Lake District; also by road, from Drigg (13 miles) and Seascale stations on the Furness Railway. Five miles by pony-track from Boot Station. Conveyances, Guides, and Mountain Ponies* 87 $tt0lfefc $»fc*& WIHD&BMEBE. (under new management). " Postal Address : near Ulverston" ; Telegraphic^ "Walker, Hotel, Newby Bridge." Opposite Steamboat Pier and Railway Terminus (Furness and Midland). Fast Service of Trains from all -parts ; direct from St. Pancras. COMMANDS A FINE VIEW UP THE LAKE. Acknowledged to be the most artistic entrance to the District. Boats. Billiards. Lawn Tennis. Good Fishing;. Taylor B. Walker, Proprietor. To open for the 1&90 season, THE "MORTAL MAN," TROUTBECK, WINDERMERE, 3J miles from Windermere Station, 4 from Ambleside, 10 from Ullswater. This well-known Inn has been greatly enlarged and converted into a comfortable TOURIST HOTEL. It is situated in the beautiful valley of Troutbeck on the coach route between Windermere and Ullswater, and commands a charming view of the Valley and Lake. Wm. HAYTON, Proprietor. 88 (Bwim gaftw. J, HOLLAND, House Agent, Me Wmv tftltaa, %m& & lodging fflusis, BOWNESS-OV-WINDERMERE. J^Wi or without Attendance, Linen and Plate. Elevated Site, Fine Views of Lake and Mountains. Terraced Gardens. Three minutes' walk to the Lake. inland. JM'dara, dlonnemara, Jrelanl (Opened 1883.) RENVYLE HOUSE HOTEL, 5 miles from Letterfrack ; 14 from Clifden ; 32 from Westport. Good Sea Bathing. Good Seal and Mixed Shooting. Good .brown Trout and Sea, Fishing. The situation of this Hotel is the finest in the country, close to the Sea, with Sea and Mountain Views, delightful in Spring, Summer and Autumn ; it is mild in Winter, though there are fresh breezes from the sea, Renvyle should be full all the year. POTTY TRAPS, CARS, BOATS, &. PONIES ON HIRE. Two Lawn Tennis Grounds. The Quarterly Review, April, 1887, says :—"At Renvyle is perhaps the purest and most fragrant air in Ireland or the British Isles." " One of the loveliest places in the British Isles." Star. " We hope to come again, and shall certainly send our friends."—SYDNEY Buxton, Esq., M.P., 15, Baton Place, London. TERIVIS : 10s. per day; £3. per week. Mrs. BLAKE, Renvyle, Letterfrack, Galway. GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. *I, BOYAL HOVUto Xiately Renovated and Refitted with Bath-rooms, Rot and Cold Water, two large Coffee rooms, two Ladies' Drawing-rooms, Private Sittingr-rooms. Breakfast and Luncheon from Is. ; Dinner, Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. Bed- room for one person, 2s. ; for two occupying one room, 3s. No charge for attendance. Weekly Terms on application to Mrs. Kane. POSTING IN A 1,1, ITS BRAJfCHKS At the lowest Terms to Carrick-a-Rede and back, on daily Car, 2s., or a party ; same Terms. This hotel is opposition to Causeway Hotel. Car and Porter attend all trams on public road. 40 %vt\mft. G lANT'S CAUSEWAY. CAUSEWAY HOTEL. The only Hotel in Ireland which is lighted with Electric Light. A first-class Hotel, recently enlarged, and replete with every com- fort, with Beception Boom, Coffee Boom, and Public Drawing Boom, and accommodation for 70 guests. It is beautifully situated, overlooking the Atlantic, and within a few minutes* walk of the far-famed Giant's Causeway, THE ELECTRIC TRAMWAY runs from Portrush Bailway Station direct to the Hotel Grounds, a distance of 8 miles. Everybody should travel by the Electric Cars (the great wonder of the age), and stay at the Causeway Hotel, where the charges will be found moderate. Charming Views, Walks and Drives. Asphalte and Grass Tennis Courts. Refreshment Kiosk & Electric Holophote. GUIDES, BOATS AND POSTING AT FIXED CHABGES. Postal and Telegraph Address—" The Manager, Causeway Hotel* Bushmills." 41 GRAHAM'S HOTEL, ZtsTIEW STREET (Near POST OFFICE, opposite PKESBYTERIAN CHAPEL). Tourists visiting Killarney will find this Hotel clean, comfortable, and home-like. Tariff, Single Bed, Is. 9d. ; Double, 2s. Dinners 2s. 6d. ; Tea Is. Our own Cars run daily to the Gap of Dunloe, Muckross, &c, and our own Boats ply every day on the Lakes with parties from the Hotel. Write for Graham's "Programme of Tours " for two or three days, Post Free. Coupons for this Hotel can be obtained at Gaze's Dublin Office. THE ROYAL BAY VIEW HOTEL, (TOURIST AND COMMERCIAL), KILLYBEC^S, Co. 5>OTS KGAL. Recently erected with all modern improvements, Hot and Cold Water, Plunge and Shower Baths. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. Good Trout Fishing on the Lakes. The harbour is perfectly safe for Bathing, Boating, and Fishing. Places of Interest in the District, St. Catherine's "We'll, The Lighthouse, McSwine's Bay, St. Mary's Church, Niall Mor Tombstone, Fintragh, Caves of Muckross, Slieve League, the One Man's Pass and Bunglass, the Martello Towers, Tor Mor, G-len Gesh,andthe Caves of Moghery. Sfrttanfl—fortto ItfaU*. KILLALOE, CO. CLARE. (One of Ireland's brightest beauty-spots.) Good Salmon, Peel, and Trout fishing ; Comfortable Accom- modation with moderate charges at the a KI&ji Within a few hours of Dublin by direct line. Good Trout, Pike, and Perch fishing (free) on the lovely Lough Derg, the home of the famous Gillaroo Trout. May-fly fishing with natural fly attracts many regular visitors. A " second rise" frequently occurs in August. Peel fishing is at its best in June. Visitors have the privilege of some excellent salmon fishing free. No other Hotel of same name. Miss Hurley, Proprietress. BETTWS-Y-COED. Tel. Address : " Oak, Bettws-y-Coed." This celebrated Hotel has an unrivalled situation, and is very suitable as a centre from which the most beautiful scenery in North Wales may be visited. Private Road to Station. Omnibus meets all Trains The Coaches for Llanberis, Beddgelert, Bangor, &c , start daily from this Hotel. Posting. Lawn Tennis. Billiards. First-class Stabling. EDWARD PULLAN, Proprietor. 43 BANGOR FERRY. Bcmgor is the best centre for visiting all the best scenery in Snowdonia, etc. The position of the Hotel is unrivalled, standing in its own extensive grounds on the banks of the Menai Straits, overlooking the famous Tubular and Suspension Bridges. OMNIBUS MEETS TRAINS AT BANGOR STATION. LAWN TENNIS, BOATS, BILLIARDS, POSTING, 6c. Tel. Address : " George Hotel, Bangor." W. DUDLEY UAHTCE, Manager. JUNCTION HOTEL, near CONWAY. Within five minutes' walk of Conway Castle, im- mediately opposite Llan- dudno Junction Station and within ten minutes' Train to Llandudno. Families, Tourists, and Commercial Gentlemen will find every comfort at this Hotel. Charges Mod- erate. Excellent Coffee and Private Sitting Rooms. With good view of Castle, River, and Town of Conway. Posting. Choicest Wines, Spirits, and Cigars. C. JONES, Proprietress. THE MENAI BRIDGE, First-rate accommodation and reasonable charges. Omnibuses to and from Bangor Station four times daily. The Packets to and from Liverpool land passengers within two minutes' walk of the hotel. A first-class Billiard Table. Posting, Sea Bathing, Hot and Cold Baths, etc. Special Winter Tariff on application. C. HUMPHREYS, Proprietress. 44 ABERFOYLE. BAILIE NICOL JARVIE HOTEL. Tourists and Families will find every comfort at this Hotel, which has recently been enlarged. It is situated amidst enchain- ing scenery on the banks of the Eiver Forth, at the Starting Point of the New Road to the Trossachs and Loch Katrine, over which Coaches are run daily during the summer. Boats oa Loch Ard and Loch Chon for Fishing and Pleasure Parties. Tennis Lawn. Railway Station, Post and Telegraph Offices within two minutes walk of the Hotel. POSTING IN ALL ITS BEANOHES. 7AMSS ELAIR-Proprietor. BLASE ATKOXiE* ATHOLE ARMS HOTEL (ADJOINING THE STATION). Tel. Address : " Hotel, Blairathole." Now one of the largest and best-appointed Hotels in the Highlands. Situation unrivalled as a central point from which to visit the scenery of the Perthshire Highlands, such as Killiecrankie, the Queen's View of Loch Tummel, Lochs Tay and Kannoch, Glen Tilt and Braemar, the Falls of Bruar, Garry, Tummel and Fender, Dunkeld, &c. This is also the most convenient resting place for breaking the long railway journey to and from the North of Scotland. Posting Department extensive and complete. Guides and Ponies for Braemar or Mountain Excursions. D. Macdonald & Sons, Proprieto w. 45 BRAEMAR. THE INYERCADLD ARMS, In connection with the Invercauld Arms Hotel, Ballater. THE FINEST HOTEL SITUATION IN SCOTLAND. Recently Re-erected after Plans by J. T. Wimperis, Esq., Sackville Street, London. Magnificent Dining Hall, Elegant ladies' Drawing Room, AND Numerous Suites of Apartments. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. By appointment Posting Master to the Queen. t^ Coaches during: the Season to Blairgrowrie, Dunkeld, and Ballater. EXCELLENT SALMON FISHING In connection with the Hotel. Letters and Telegrams punctually attended to. Tel. Address : " Invercauld Arms, Braemar." A. MCGREGOR. 46 IDTTIfcTIKIIEllID. FISHER'S HOTEL, Under the Patronage of tbe Royal Family. MR. FISHER begs to state that the additions and alterations to this large first-class Establishment are now completed; and, having been re- decorated and refurnished in an elegant style, it will be found equal to any in the'Uorthof Scotland. A Large and Elegant Dining Saloon, with Ladies' Drawing Room (en suite). Private suites of Apartments, and Spacious Billiard and Smoking Saloon. The only Coach for Braemar and BALMORAL, via BLAIRGOWRIE, starts from the Hotel, where seats for the above can only be secured. Telegrams for Apartments, Coach Seats, or carriages punctually attended to. Omnibuses from the Hotel attend the different Trains. LAURENSON & CO, OF ALL DESCRIPTIONS, LERWIC K. TO TOURISTS. House of West 5£alS and Lodge of Houllmawater TO LET during- summer. West Hall House is about 1J miles distant from Lerwick, and in close proximity to a beautiful white sea-beach, thus forming a nice quiet seaside resort. Houllmawatey Lodge is situated about 20 miles from Lerwick on the road to Walls,, and is_ closely surrounded with a number of good .fishing lochs. It has 3 rooms furnished and should make an excellent resort for a small party during the summer months. Terms very moderate. For further particulars apply to GANSON BROTHERS, Lerwick, 47 ZEZDUKTIBTTIE^a-H:. Nearly opposite ... mm titie General Post Office, and only a ' few minutes' walk -^T from General flfflife 1 I M0mmII i : Railway Termi- '"*! «e?!^ r • nus. '' If'^S^i Pp 1 Special terms for board . during llMlSiSj „„*,,... %:.,,,,,,:: .ij & ;:.;....! Winter Months. ..;. :,,*, -t'Uri DARLING'S REGENT TEMPERANCE HOTEL, 20. WATERLOO PLACE, PRINCES STREET. THE FIRST CLASS HOTEL FOR FAMILIES & GENTLEMEN. 100, PRINCES STREET, OPPOSITE THE CASTLE. A. M. TH I EM, Proprietor. BADDELEY'S Hap of Loch Lomond, Trossachs, etc., By BARTHOLOMEW. Half-inch to the mile, 6d. ; by Post, 6Jd. London:— Dulau & Co., 37, Soho Square, W Glasgow:—T. Murray & Son. 48 jfrottxttA. WATERLOO HOTEL, EDINBURGH. J, GRIEVE, Proprietor, EDINBURGH. Adjoining the WAVERLEY STATION. Bed and Attendance from 2s. 6d. Tariff equally moderate. JOHN MACPHERSON, Proprietor. NOTE.—Within 10 minutes of Exhibition grounds. No Spirituous Liquors. 49 (Edinburgh. LONDON~HOTEL, ST. ANDREW SQUARE. Visitors to the International Electrical Exhibi- tion will find this hotel most convenient. It is very central, quiet aud comfortable. Wines and Cuisine excellent. CHARGES MODERATE. J. J. MEPHIUS, Proprietor. ROXBURGHE HOTEL, CHARLOTIE SQUARE, EDINBURGH. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. In connection witu the above is Christie's Private Hotel. Apartments en suiie % and Board on moderate terms. J. CHRISTIE, Proprietor. (Edinburgh. 104 to 106, PRINCES STREET (Facing the Castle and Princes Gardens). THE FINEST SITE IN EDINBURGH. ENGLISH MANAGEMENT. GEO. ELLIS, Proprietor. . 50 hetlmA. GLASGOW. PHILP'S COGKBURN HOTEL, 141, BATH STEEET. -itfS 100 Rooms. PASSENCER rLASGOW i ELEVATOR. High Class Temperance BILLIARD House. BOOMS. Bed and Turkish Attendance & other Baths. from 2s. 6d. NOTICE—As the Proprietor does not fee the Cabmen, intending Visitors will please to see that they are at " Philp's Hotel, 141, Eath St.," before paying fare. In connection with PHILP'S COCKBURN HOUSE, 6, MONTAGUE PLACE, RUSSELL SQUAKE, k. O JM 1> O W TO TOURISTS, ANGLERS, AND ARTISTS. .vss %mw&wi soot&, CAMICH, STRATHGLASS, N.B. This Hotel is beautifully situated on the river Cannier, and in one of the most romantic Glens in Scotland; is under New Management, and has recently undergone thorough repair, newly furnished throughout, and a fresh supply of water bv gravitation added. Parties patronising this house will receive every attention and comfort, with cleanliness and moderate charges. New Circular Route.—Can be approached from Inverness by train to Beauly and drive of seventeen miles (one of the finest in the North, passing Beaufort Castle, Palls of Kilmorack, The Druim, Eilean Aigas, and Erchless Castle) : or, by steamer from Inverness. Banavie, or Oban to Temple Pier, Loch Ness, thence a drive of fourteen miles through Glenurquhart and Corremonje. This route forms a Circular Tour unequalled in the Highlands. Splendid Salmon and Trout Fishing for 2 miles on the River- Cannich. Families and Gentlemen boarded by the week. Posting. JOHN MACPHERSON, Proprietor. 51 froilaml STKOME FERRY. This Hotel, which has been rebuilt, is situated in one of the most be u+iful parts of the West Coast of Scotland, easy of access by daily steamer from Oban, and quite near the island of Skye. The scenery all round is magnificent. The Hotel is one of the most comfortable in the North of Scotland, and is under the personal superintendence of the lessee. The Bedrooms are large, airy, and comfortable, and the Coffee Room affords excellent accommodation. The cooking is good, and the Wines and Spirits have been selected with great care. Gentlemen staving at the GLWNE-LG Hotel have the privilege of SALMON and SEA-TROUT FISHING FREE on the Glen lg River; also GROUSE, BLACK GAME, and HARE SHOOTING, by the week or month, at a Moderate Charge. The Sea Fislrng is about tne best on the West Coast. Buats and Boatmen. Billiards. Hot, Cold, and Shower Baths. Among places of interest near are The Pictish Towe.s of Gleubeg, Cup Marked Stones. Glenbeg Water Fails, Lo -h Duich, Loch Hourn, Glenshiel, Falls of Glomach, Shiel Hotel, &c. Telegraphic Address, ' Glenelg Hotel, Lochalsh.' DONALD MACDONALD MACKINTOSH, Lessee. WAVERLEY HOTEL, INVERNESS. Unsurpassed ^ ,_^i f - ^ with ^Mi^ I o ''3hp8^ Situation and Comfort One Minute's walk from the Kailway Station. Porter of the Hotel attends all Trains, And an Omnibus runs in connection with tne Caledonian Canal Steamers. D. DAVIDSON, PfiOPBIETOR. 52 ROYAL HOTEL, INVERNESS. The Proprietor of the above Hotel can with con- fidence solicit the patronage of all those visiting the Capital of the Highlands. The Royal is conveniently situated, and is the only one immediately opposite, and within a few yards of the Railwa}r Station entrance. The Public Rooms, Private Sitting Rooms, and Bedrooms are large, lofty, and furnished throughout in the handsomest manner possible, and no expense has been spared to make this Hotel one of the best, as it is one of the quietest and most comfortable in Scotland. Bed and Attendance from 3/-. TARIFF EQUALLY MODERATE. TABLE D'HOTE DAILY. The Hotel Porters await the arrival of all trains. An Omnibus attends all the Canal Steamers. J. S. CHRISTIE, Proprietor. 53 i:n""v:e:r,:lt:ess. VICTORIA HOTEL THE ONLY FIRST CLASS HOTEL FACING- THE RIVER AND CASTLE. Parties boarded by the week on Special Terms, The Nearest Hotel to Canal Steamers. JOHN BLACK. ; 54 (Under the same Management as the Dalmally Hot* line.) This large and magnificently situated Hotel, at the foot of Ben Cruachan, and commanding a full view of the upper reaches of Loch Awe, with its beautiful islands, and Kilchurn Castle, has been fitted up with all the most modern improvements. The Loch Awe Station of the Callander and Oban Kailwaj, and the Pier which forms the terminus of all the steamer routes, adjoin the ' grounds. The Hotel Steamer " COUNTESS OF BREADALBANE" sails daily in connection with the beautiful drives through the Pass of Melfort and Glen Nant, and also to the Fal!s of Cruachan in the Pass of Brander. Splendid Saloon Steamer " Mona " on Hire with Excursion Parties Numerous Daily Excursions of Great Interest and Beauty. Special arrangements made with families and large parties. Boats and boatmen in attendance. Salmon and Trout Fishing- on the Loch, Free. Address:—D. FRASEB, Loch Awe Hotel, Loch Awe. (connected by Telephone with Loch Awe Hotel, 2%m. distant), is in the beautiful valley of the Orchy, half-a-mile from Dalmally Station. It has been much enlarged, and a handsome Dining Hall has been added. THE CHALET.- On a fine site close to the Hotel there is erected a commodious Villa, which is used in connection with the Hotel, and where families can enjoy all the privacy of a home. The Dalmally, Lochlomond (Tarbtt), and Inveraray Coaches arrive at, and depart from this Hotel daily, and Tourists are booked to Dalmally by the splendid Steamer " Lord of the Isles." iawx teiotis. The Salmon-fishing in the Orchy, free to visitors at the Hotel, is amongst the best near the West Coast. The following is a favourite route to the Highlands : Train to " " Greenock or Gourock ; steamer Lord of the Isles to Inveraray coach to Dalmally; train to Oban. Tourists will find the above Hotels most convenient for breaking the journey to and from Oban and the Western Highlands, and most desirable starting-places for the excursions to Staffa and Iona, Glencoe, Loi h Etive, Inveraray, Loch Awe, Falls of Orchy, &c, all of which can be made in a day. D/FRASER, Proprietor. 55 Jutland. PORTSONACHAM HOTEL, LOCH AWE. Hotel has had The proprietor of this well known and favourite Dining Room Smoking enlarged, and it now contains spacious it and superior Room, Drawing Room, Private Sitting Rooms, Bedroom accommodation. , commanding views of Lake The Hotel is delightfully situated, the west 01 and Mountain Scenery which are unsurpaseed in places of interest, ^Position is also very central, and many Loch Etive Head can be visited daily, including Oban, Inveraray of Brander. All the Falls of Bla'rgour, Ford, and the Pass and the Hotel steamers on the Lake. call at the Hotel Pier interest on trie Steamer, besides visiting the various places of Loch Awe Station m Loch, plies three times daily to and from (see connection with trams from Oban and the South beautiful Mow). The Hotel can also be visited from Oban by the^J^ the proprietor. new route through Glen-Nant, originated by Hill LaKes, The Fishing on Loch Awe is free, as also on several are reserved for the and first-class boats and experienced boatmen with this hotel, see use of visitors. For fishing in connection Guide, 1890. Sportsman's 4.„vi,- i,n^ have now ^en eBtaWiBiieaa A Post Office and a Telegraph Office despatched tnree in the Hotel, and letters are received and times daily during the season. Letters and Telegrams receive pr ompt attention. Telegraphic Address : — Postal Address : — PORTSONACHAN HOTEL, CAMERON, PORTSONACHAN. LOCHAWE, PORTSONACHAN, ARGYLLSHIRE, N.B. STEAMER SAILINGS. EOT EL TARIFF. Approximate. Breakfast ... 2/6 1/0 (" Kilchurn Castle.") Lunch, from 3'6 Leave Leave Dinner Portsonachan. Lochawe Station. Tea (plain)... 1/6 Bedroom, from 2/6 *8.0 a.m. f9.30 a.m. 1/6 12.40 p.m. 1.50 p.m. Attendance... per day 1/6 4.0 p.m. 5.20 p.m. Fishing boat... THOMAS CAMERON, Proprietor. a.m. Up to 1st July, 10 a.m. t Up to 1st July, 11.30 56 Free Trout, Salmon. & Saimo-Ferox Fishing on Loch Awe. NORTH PORTSONACHAN. First -Class Hotel for Families and Anglers, close to Loch A*we at rortsonachan, half-an-honr's sail from Loch Awe Station, and one hour's drive from Taynuilt Station. Replete with every convenience. Is the nearest Lirst-Class Hotel to Loch Awe, Loch Avich, Loch Nant, and ten other Hill Lochs, all Free to Visitors and mostly within easy walking distance, and some of which have been stocked with Loch Leven Trout and can only be fished by staying at this Hotel. All Steamers call at the Hotel Pier. A coach in connection with the steamer, 'Countess of Breadalbane,' leaves the Hotel daily in the season, running through Grlen Nant. Passengers booked for Taynuilt, Oban. Head of Loch Etive and Loch Awe rid Pass of Brainier. Baths. Good BoatK. Best Fishing Tackle. Post Horses. Families Boarded. Lawn Tennis- Telegraphic Address : 'T.iyoreggan, Portsonachan, \ ?>/. A. & A. MUiNRO. »^^ LOCH LOMOND, Has recently undergone considerable alterations with extensive additions, and commands the best view of Ben Lomond. Coaches to and from Inverary, Loch Awe, and Oban daily. BOARDING ON MODERATE TERMS. Small Boats on the Lake. Fishing free. Telegraphic Address:—Tarbet Hole], Lochlomond. A. H. MACPHERSON, Proprietot. MOULIN HOTEL, PITLOCHRY, One mile from and 150 feet above PITLOCHRY ST^TIOUST. Enlarged and Refurnished. BATH ROOM. POSTING. Beautiful Situation. Invigorating Air. Reduced Terms till August 1st. Mrs. XVZcDZARMID, Propeietress. 57 BOYD'S PRINTING OFFICE, 54, 56, & 58, GEORGE STREET. The Leading Establishment in the Highlands, for the supply of all kinds of Books, Stationery, Fancy Goods, Charts, Maps, Guide Books, Photographs, Artists' Drawing Materials, &c, &c. CHEAP ALBUM OF BONA-FIDE PHOTOGRAPHS, In Scarlet and Gold Binding, Contains 12 views for 1/-; Size, 4Jx3 inches. 2 of Oban 1 Sunset from Oban (or Shepherd's Hat), Dunollie; Dunstaffnage and Gylen Castles; Blairgour Fall ; Kilchurn Castle, Lochawe; Brander and Mlfort Parses; Iona Cathedral; Fin gal',". Cave, Staffa. Visitors should purchase Boyd's Shilling- Guide to Oban and Neighbourhood, by M. J. B. Baddeley, Editor of " Thorough Guide " Series. Plan of Oban and 4 Maps by Bartholomew. Post Free. Monthly Time Table and Diary, Id. Agent for Houses and Apartments to let in Oban and West Highlands. Printed Lists on application. Villa on Isle of Kerrera, opposite Oban, to let. CIRC ULATING LIB RARY. THOMAS BOYD, $r'n\te\\, publisher, loousejler, (Faciug the Bay.) 58 6$Y0tlMUl. Great Western Hotel, LARGEST AND LEADING HOTEL IN THE WEST HIGHLANDS. ISimutifulIn situated on i\\$ (Bsjjtanadtf, Close to the Pier and within five minuts' walk of the Railway Statior. An Omnibus conveys visitors to and from the hotel free of charge. -oiB^usr- (First-Class. Neiv Management.) Beautifully situated close to Railway Station and Steamboat Pier, commanding splendid views of marine and mountain scenery. Every Home Comfort. Moderate ChargeR. Billiards. Ladies' Drawing Room. Private Parlours. Boarding by arrangement. Trout and Salmon Angling. JOHN" McKEKZIF, Proprietor. (From Trossachs Hotel). 59 a?$rott*ttfl. KING'S ARMS HOTEL. This old-established Hotel lias just been Rebuilt and Enlarged. Has a commanriing Sea View ; is adjacent to the Pailway Station and Steamboat Wharf ; and possesses home comforts, combined with Moderate Charges. • Ladies' Drawing Room. Billiard, Smoking, and Bath Rooms. Parties Boarded on moderate terms. Table d'Hote Daily, Boots waits the arrival of Trains and Steamers. Bus not necessary. C.T.C. Headquarters. ALEXANDER M'TAVISH, Proprietor. ST. FILLANS. DRUMMOND ARMS HOTEL, ST. FIXiZ«&.NS, BY CBX2SFF. This commodious Hotel, beautifully situated at the foot of Lochearn, is well adapted for Families and Tourists. St. Fillans is one of the loveliest places to be met with anywhere. BOATS FOR PISHING AND CARRIAGES FOR HIRE. Caledonian Coaches pass daily during the summer months. Telegraphic Address : —Davie, St. Fillans. A. DAVIE. GO Jtfottond. P *' LOCItlLPIEAI. Daily communication between GLASGOW and HERE by Steamer Via Ardrishaig,thenc« Coach* or by Rail to Oban, thence Coach. Trout Fishing Boats kept&Steady Boatmen. Telegraphic Office. Kilmartin. 14 Mile*. .luncheon k Tea always readyon arrival of Coaches from ObanlloCh-Awe. I Telegrams by Post Daily at 3 P.M. PASS OP MELFORT, near OBAN. FIRST-CLASS TROUT FISHING. Season—1st of April to end of September. Gentlemen residing at Cnilfail Hotel have the privilege of fishing on several first-rate Lochs, some of which are annually stocked by the Hotel-keeper with the famous Loch Leven and Fontinalis, or Great American Brook Trout, from the Hojvieton Fishery, Stirling, which has greatly improved the Trout fishing Mr. M'Fadyen has boats and steady boatmen for the use of Anglers. Ther is excellent Deep-Sea Fishing, and delightful Sea Bathing. The scenery around is magnificent. The famous Pass of Melfort, which is very grand, iswithin a few minutes' walk of the Hotel ; altogether a very healthy, charming place. A handsome new Billiard Room (30 ft by 22 ft.) has this Spring been added to tbe Hotel, on the ground floor, the old Billiard Room having been converted into Bedrooms. Lawn Tennis', Hot and Cold Baths, and all conveniences connected with Hotels. Families can be boarded by the Week or Month. POSTAL DELIVERY DAILY. Gentlemen should write beforehand so as to secure rooms. Luncheons always ready on arrival of Coaches to and from Oban, Ford, and Loch Awe. CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. Route : —Per Caledonian Railway to Oban, thence per Coach daily : or by ' Steamer Columba ' from Glasgow, Greenock or Gourock to Ardrishaig, thence per Royal Mail Coach daily, through magnificent Highland Scenery. Address :—JOHN mfadyen, Cailfail Hotel, Kilmelford,. Argyllshire, N.B. Telegraph Office :—KILMARiLN, N.B. Telegrams by Post daily at 3 p.m., 14 miles. 01 jfratiAlltL PH I LP'S GLENBURN HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT, KOTHESAY, Recently Purchased from the Eepresentatives of the late Dr. PATERSON by Mr. A. PHILP, of the COCKBURN HOTELS EDINBURGH and GLASGOW. Rothesay, with its lovely Bay, is already famous as a Winter, and Spring Residence for those who suffer from the east winds, so prevalent in this country. Mr. Philp, being sole proprietor, and unfettered by colleagues, as in most similar Establishments managed by Limited Companies, will be always anxious to adopt any improvement calculated to secure the greater Comfort and Enjoyment of the Visitors to Glenburn. He will also bring to bear in the Management and General Arrangement of the Establishment his long and successful experience in providing for the Travelling Public. Resident Physician—Dr. PHILP, formerly of the Conishead Priory. Prospectuses may be had on application to " The Manager," or at PHITiP'S COCKBURN HOTEL, 141, Bath Street, Glasgow. Also at the well-known COCKBURN HOTEL, EDINBURGH. ISLE OF SKYE. The best starting place for the Cuchullins, Loch Scavaig, and Loch Coruisk, which are seen to greatest advantage when ap- proached from the sea. Good Sea, Biver, and Loch fishing ; also Boats free of charge. Parties boarded at moderate terms. All Steamers between Oban, Stidme Ferry, Portree, Gairloch, Stornoway, &c, call here daily. POSTING. POST AND TELEGRAPH OFFICE. J. ROSS, Lessee. KYLEAKIN HOTEL. This Hotel is situated in the Sound of Skye, amongst some of the grandest scenery of the Highlands, and is a suitable starting- point for the Cuchullins and other parts of Skye. One of Mr. David Macbrayne's swift line of Steamers ca Is daily during the Season, either going or returning between Oban and Gairloch, Ross-shire; also "Claymore" or "Clansman," twice a week between Glasgow and Stornoway. Good Fishing and very suitable Bathing places in the vicinity. Often frequented by Artists. Every attention given to Sportsmen, Tourists, &c. CHARGES MODERATE. RXrs. TURNER, Lessee. SLIGACHAN HOTEL. NEAREST HOUSE TO LOCH CORUISK. Beautifully situated at the foot of the Coolin Hills. Parties living in the hotel have the privilege of good Sea- Trout Fishing on the river Sligachan ; also good Loch and Sea Fishing. BOATS FREE OF CHARGE. BOATMEN, 4*. per Day. Parties landing at Coruisk can have Ponies or Guides sent to meet them at Camasunary, or the hill above Coruisk, by sending 4 letter or telegram addressed * Sligachan, via Portree, per post" the day previous. Posting. W. SHARP, Lessee. 08 THE GRAND HOTEL, LERWICK. Under new manaqement. This large first-class Hotel is now open under entirely new management, and will be found by Tourists and others visiting Shetland one of the most comfortable and best appointed Hotels in the North. Large and Spacious Coffee Room. SPLENDID BILLIARD ROOM. PRIVATE PARLOURS. Hot and Cold Baths. BOATING. FISHING. SEA BATHING. Address :—THE MANAGER. V^TelegramsJo GRAND HOTEL, LERWICK. (il JfrottotuJ. SPA HOTEL, STRATHPEFFER, N.B. The Oldest Established and Leading Hotel. RECENTLY ENLARGED. Replete with every Comfort. Best Situation (400 feet above sea-level). Magnificent Dining Room, Drawing Room, Conservato.ies, Library, Smoking and Billiard Rooms, &c. Bowling and Tennis Greens* LADIES' AND GENTLEMEN'S BATHROOMS. DOUCHE ROOM. Excellent Salmon Angling, also Troat-fishing in several Lochs. TERMS MODERATE. A. WALLACE, PROPRIETOR. PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE CARDS OR SLIPS FROM THIS POCKET UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY DA Ward, Charles Slegg 670 The Eastern Counties N6W37 2d ed. rev. 1886 lift