, Truly a World-Class City

Seoul is a beautiful city, where tradition and modernity Seoul is surrounded by 17 mountains, culminating with coexist. It is a pleasant, convenient and human-oriented Bukhansan at a height of 836 meters. The Hangang(River), city with over 10 million inhabitants. Seoul, an a major symbol of Seoul, winds through the center of the international city with a brisk economy, is now becoming city, supplying not only drinking water, but also water for the hub of Northeast Asia. The capital city of the Republic other domestic and industrial needs. People started to live of , Seoul has grown into a teeming metropolis with around the Hangang during the Neolithic period, around a population of over 10 million people. After many hard 6,000 years ago, which explains the numerous relics from times throughout its history, including several invasions, this period around the area. The Amsa-dong Prehistoric the Japanese occupation, the Korean War and the political Settlement Site in Gangdong-gu is the largest group­ division of Korea, Seoul is now functioning as and playing housing site of the Neolithic period in Korea. During this the role of the international city it has turned into, just like prehistoric period, people were for the most part digging many other prominent global cities. This has been deep pits and building mud huts as homes. The Amsa­ achieved mainly through the rapid growth of its economy dong mud huts are located in a broad plane along the that has been called "The Miracle of the Hangang River." Hangang. Upon the foundation of the Dynasty in Located in the heart of the Korean peninsula, Seoul's 1392, the founding King Taejo, or Yi Seong-gye, as he was territory extends 36.78 square kilometers from East to West named before his ascension to the throne, wanted a capital and 30.3 square kilometers from North to South, covering close to Hanyang (today Seoul). Upon careful examination a total of 605.4 square kilometers. of the topography, Jeong Do-jeon and other officials established complete plans and blueprints for the construction of , Sajikdan, buildings, m arket places and road networks, in full harmony with the surrounding environment.

As of the end of 2004, Seoul's population totalled 10 million people. In other words, Seoul represents 25% of the whole country in terms of population, in an area, which represents only 6% of the whole territory. Seoul, meaning "capital" in Korean, received its official name in Following the annexation of Korea by Japan in 1910, 1946, after being liberated from the yoke of Japanese Seoul was renamed "Gyeongseong" but regained its name colonial rule in 1945. Remarkably, Seoul is the only city in at the liberation in 1945. In 1948, at the establishment of the world actually named "capital" which is indeed the the government of the Republic of Korea, Seoul was capital of its country. chosen as its capital. One year after, Seoul was elevated to

2 the rank of "Special City" and placed directly under the buses empowered by natural gas, the restriction of the use control of the central government. Meanwhile, North of private cars in certain areas, the creation of crosswalks Korea chose Seoul as its constitutional capital and in downtown Seoul, have also resulted in immediate and Pyeongyang as a temporary capital. That is why during the visible results. Inside Seoul, the ecosystem is b ein g Korean War, which started in 1950, the two countries restored in the surrmmding mountains, while people are scrambled hard to possess Seoul. As a result, the city was peacefully walking down the streets of a living city. torn apart and reduced to a pile of debris. At the end of the war, UN soldiers regarded Seoul as nothing but a "poor and hopeless city." However, with better social and economic conditions, Seoul was able to turn into a "vertical city" with numerous tall buildings and skyscra-pers, after having been a "horizontal city" in the past. In addition to that, Seoul became the backbone of the economic growth of the Republic of Korea. These building development projects, combined with the remarkable growth of the economy have yielded some impressive results. However, in the process, both people and nature have been grievously neglected. It was only recently that the Seoul Metropolitan Government introduced some effective measures to return the city to its true owners, its people and nature. In order to create a living city and establish the basis for The 1988 Olympics, h eld within the city , h ad an a comfortable yet convenient way of living, Seoul created incredibly positive impact on the way the rest of the world "Seoul Forest" in Ttukseom in May 2005, and in October perceived Seoul and its inhabitants . In addition, by 2005, restored the Cheonggyecheon , a stream previously successfully hosting the Europe-Asia Meeting (ASEM), covered with asphalt for many years. Environmentally­ with leaders from 26 European and Asian nations, Seoul friendly traffic policies, such as the introduction of city took advantage of the opportunity to turn into an international convention city. Seoul received international recognition after having successfully hosting the 2002 World Cup along with Japan. During that event, members of the "Red Devils," the official supporters of the Korean national soccer team, filled up an entire plaza in front of Seoul City Hall and major areas in downtown Seoul, wearing red apparel whenever Korea was playing, proudly waving the national flag "Taegeukgi." "World-class City, Seoul." This is the real vision of Seoul in the 21st century, designed for a better life, where tradition and modernity, human and nature, culture and history all blend with advanced information technology. The ship of Seoul is ready to sail into a bright future.

3 The Beauty of Seoul

Copyright © 2001, 2004, 2006, 2010 by Jae-sik Suh

All rights reserved.

First published in 2001 Fourth edition, 2010 by Hollym International Corp. 18 Donald Place, Elizabeth, New Jersey 07208, USA Phone 908 353 1655 Fax 908 353 0255 http://www.hollym .com

[jHollym

Published simultaneously in Korea by Hollym Corp., Publishers 13-13 Gwancheol-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 11 0-111 , Korea Phone +82 2 734 5087 Fax +82 2 730 5149 http://www.hollym.co.kr e-Mail [email protected]

ISBN: 978-1-56591-306-6 Library of Congress Control Number: 2001091319

Printed in Korea CONTENTS

Seoul, Where Warmth, Convenience and Liveliness Coexist 7

Royal Palaces, the Heritage of the Joseon Dynasty 38

Royal Court Ceremonies: Reenacting the Glory of the Joseon Dynasty Culture 67

Experiencing Traditional Culture in the Heart of the Metropolis 93

Seoul, a Dynamic City with a Rich Culture 113

Bukhansan(Mt.) and the Hangang(River): Natural Treasures of Seoul 147

Touring Seoul by the Convenient City Tour Bus 175

The 2002 FIFA World Cup with Six Billion Soccer Fans Worldwide 209

5

Seoul, Where Warmth, Convenience and Liveliness Coexist

Nearly half a century after having been covered by asphalt in 1958, Cheonggyecheon has finally been unveiled as an environment-friendly and culture-oriented stream. Extending merely 5.8km from Cheonggye Plaza to Sindapcheolgyo (Railroad Bridge), it is flowing again through the concrete jungle of the bustling metropolis, captivating Seoulites with its beautiful scenery, cultural wonders and architecture. Cheonggyecheon originates in the Bugaksan and mountains in Northwest Seoul, making its full appearance in Cheonggye Plaza. The ground surface of the plaza was designed to resemble traditional wrapping cloth and is equipped with a colorful LED lighting system, offering a fascinating night show with a mixture of light and water. Gwangtonggyo, once the largest bridge across the Cheonggyecheon during the Joseon period, has also been restored to its original state. The world's biggest ceramic mural, "Banchado," is a replica of an original painting from Kim Hong-do, one of the top artists of the Joseon Dynasty, depicting King Jeongjo's procession to his father's tomb in Hwaseong, Gyeonggi-do Province. Cheonggyecheon has already been useful as the city's lungs , by cooling down the heart of the metropolis, preventing the "urban heat islands" phenomenon. It has also reduced the amount of tiny particles of soot and dust in the air. Its crystalline water is home to many kinds of fish. Migratory birds are coming back. The eco-friendly Cheonggyecheon will go even further, to become one of the best tourist destinations in the world.

Cheonggyecheon, a Reborn Stream for a Green Future

The restored Cheonggyecheon, where clear water flows once again, with fish swimming around, has tremendously changed both the ecological environment and the grim concrete appearance of the metropolis. The eco-friendly Cheonggyecheon gives a breath of fresh, new life to Seoul citizens.

7 The 2,31 O-square-meter Cheong­ gye Plaza is the place where the Cheonggyecheon begins to flow. The plaza showcases a 60-meter­ long miniature version of the restored stream. Cheonggye Plaza has been designed to offer a beautiful atmosphere, through a combination of light and water. At nightfall, a candlelight-styled water fountain , a circular-shaped "shooter fountain" (left and below) and a two-story waterfall illuminated by a LED (light-emitting diode) lighting system offer a gorgeous urban night show. Palseokdam, the 8-rock streamside built with stones from provinces around the Korean peninsula, contains wishes of harmony, peace and unification.