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SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 If You Like to Play with Fire, You Belong with Us

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SOUTH AMERICAN CUISINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 If you like to PLAY WITH FIRE, you belong WITH US Membership. Certification. Online Learning Center. Apprenticeship. Events. WeAreChefs.com. ACFchefs.org. FEATURE STORIES 26 The Cuisine of South America A sensory exploration and brief historical journey of the cuisines of Brazil, Venezuela, Chile and beyond. DEPARTMENTS 12 Management Culinary education today looks a lot different than last year, or even last semester. Here’s how some chef-instructors are approaching virtual and remote learning. If you like to 16 Main Course Even in an era of plant-based eating, whole-animal butchery hasn’t gone away and presents a more PLAY WITH FIRE, environmentally friendly — and cost effective — approach to meat prep. you belong 19 On the Side In-house butchery requires special consideration when it comes to knife selection and maintenance. WITH US Plus, a fresh look at rabbit. 22 Pastry Crème anglaise, the simple dairy-and-egg-yolk combo and workhorse of every pastry kitchen, makes a comeback as consumers trace comforting classics. 24 Classical vs. Modern A study of the classic French dish, poulet sauté a la Bourguignonne, from Chef August Escoffier’s book, along with a modern pavé version by Chef J. Kevin Walker, CMC. 36 Health The wide breadth of seafood from Mississippi and the Gulf of Mexico offers chefs opportunities to introduce dishes that are both flavorful and good-for-you. 40 At the Bar Many bars may be closed at the moment due to COVID-19, but we can still learn how to make a trendy tea-based cocktail, or ones with decorative garnishes. IN EACH ISSUE 4 President’s Message 34 Chef-to-Chef 6 On the Line 42 ACF Chef Profile 8 News Bites 46 The Quiz 14 Chapter Close-Up Membership. Certification. Online Learning Center. Apprenticeship. Events. WeAreChefs.com. ACFchefs.org. WEARECHEFS.COM 3 | President’s Message | Un Mensaje Del Presidente | As we move through these challenging times and watch as our industry has changed dramatically, it’s easy to feel down or stuck. While I have both good and bad days, I’ve tried my best to look at the silver lining: This is truly a chance to change, grow and improve. Many of us have been forced to slow down (or speed up), shift quickly and rethink old strategies to find new ways to serve people. It’s no surprise ACF members are at the Editor-in-Chief forefront of those changes, speedily transitioning to curbside Amelia Levin delivery, launching grocery stores in hospital cafes, sending hot Creative Services Manager meals and care kits to the elderly and those in need, and even David Ristau launching new foundations and programs to help raise money for others. Graphic Designer During this time of volatility in our society and industry, I couldn’t be more excited to come Armando Mitra back on board as your president. Please know we as a board are working tirelessly to meet your Advertising and Event Sales Eric Gershowitz needs by listening to your concerns, suggestions and feedback while growing and strengthening Jeff Rhodes our organization. It is our goal to get us up to speed now while looking forward to 2021 and Director of Marketing and Communications the possibilities in front of us. It may be hard to think ahead when every day can bring a new Alan Sterling surprise, but I believe we have a bright future because our member base is made up of the best and brightest minds in our industry. American Culinary Federation, Inc. As an ACF member since the mid-1970s and former president from 2013 to 2017, many of 180 Center Place Way • St. Augustine, FL 32095 you already know a little about me. But, as we have so many new members, I would like to briefly (800) 624-9458 • (904) 824-4468 • Fax: (904) 940-0741 introduce myself. In addition to serving two terms as ACF president, I also served as ACF national [email protected] • [email protected] secretary for one term, American Academy of Chefs chair for two terms and American Academy of www.acfchefs.org Chefs vice chair for two terms. I also have served as an apprentice chair and as a competition judge and have helped with many international competitions. In 2004, I coached the ACF Youth Team, Board of Directors and have since been involved in other team competitions as a business manager. I’m also the chair President of the ACF Educational Foundation. Thomas Macrina, CEC®, CCA®, AAC® My culinary career began after receiving my Associate of Science degree, with honors, from National Secretary Mark Wright, CEC, AAC The Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, New York, in 1976. I went on to serve as executive National Treasurer chef at a variety of resorts and hotels. In 2011, I joined US Foods as an executive chef/product James Taylor, CEC, AAC, MBA specialist manager for the Philadelphia division and was selected in 2013 as a Food Fanatics Chef American Academy of Chefs Chair for the company, a position I still hold. Americo “Rico” DiFronzo, CEC, CCA, AAC But enough about me. I want to extend a huge thank you to the ACF events team for their Vice President Central Region Steven Jilleba, CMC®, CCE®, AAC incredibly hard work in putting together the ACF’s first-ever virtual convention, all within just a Vice President Northeast Region matter of weeks. Based on the feedback I received from ACF member and non-member participants Barry R. Young, CEC, CCE, AAC alike, the virtual convention was a success, and the sessions and speakers were stellar. Vice President Southeast Region As I write this letter, ChefConnect: Nashville is set to be a hybrid event, with some in-person Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC®, CCA, AAC sessions (masks and social distancing required) as well as live-streaming for a virtual option. We Vice President Western Region Robert W. Phillips, CEC, CCA, AAC are closely monitoring the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention and state guidelines in case Executive Director we need to move to a more remote setup. Heidi Cramb Either way, based on the success of the 2020 ACF Virtual Convention, we know our group has the capability to come together, even during challenging times, and continue to share ideas and best The National Culinary Review® (ISSN 0747-7716), September/ practices while making new connections and maintaining our longtime friendships. To register or October 2020, Volume 44, Number 5, is owned by the American learn more about the safety protocols we are implementing for the event, visit acfchefs.org. Culinary Federation, Inc. (ACF) and is produced 6 times a year by ACF, located at 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095. A Speaking of making connections, if you haven’t already done so, I encourage you to check digital subscription to the National Culinary Review® is included out Chef’s Table, ACF’s new online community forum, launched this summer. This forum was with ACF membership dues; print subscriptions are available to ACF members for $25 per year, domestic; nonmember intended to be a tight-knit, private space for you, our members, so you can share ideas and subscriptions are $40. Material from the National Culinary Review®, talk to one another. Connectivity and community has always been a key component of ACF in whole or in part, may not be reproduced without written membership, but in today’s world, they are even more important. permission. All views and opinions expressed in the National Culinary Review® are those of the author and do not necessarily As we move forward, feel free to continue to reach out to ACF and any and all board reflect the views and opinions of the officers or members of ACF. members, including me, with a call or email. We take our positions as board members extremely Changes of mailing address should be sent to ACF’s national office: 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095; (800) 624- seriously because we know you elected us to lead as well as to serve you. Now is the time for new 9458; Fax (904) 940-0741. beginnings. Together, let’s continue to be agents of progress — not only for our organization, but The National Culinary Review® is mailed and periodical postage for the industry at large. is paid at St. Augustine, Fla., and additional post offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to the National Culinary Review®, 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095. Thomas “Tom” Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC National President American Culinary Federation Contact me at [email protected] or follow me on Twitter @cheftommacrina and Instagram @cheftommacrina 4 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 A medida que avanzamos en estos tiempos desafiantes y vemos cómo nuestra industria ha cambiado drásticamente, es fácil sentirnos deprimidos o estancados. Si bien tengo días buenos y malos, he hecho todo lo posible para ver el lado positivo: Esta es una verdadera oportunidad para cambiar, crecer y mejorar. Muchos de nosotros nos hemos visto obligados a bajar la velocidad (o a acelerar), cambiar rápidamente y repensar viejas estrategias para encontrar nuevas formas de ofrecer nuestro servicio. No es de extrañar que los miembros de ACF estén a la vanguardia de esos cambios; muchos pasaron rápidamente a ofrecer servicios de entrega de puerta en puerta, abrieron tiendas de comestibles en los cafés de los hospitales, enviaron comidas calientes y kits de atención a los ancianos y los más necesitados, e incluso crearon nuevas fundaciones y programas para ayudar a recaudar dinero para otros. Durante este tiempo de volatilidad en nuestra sociedad e industria, no podría estar más emocionado de incorporarme como su presidente.
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