SOUTH AMERICAN CUISINE

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 If you like to play with fire, you belong with us

Membership. Certification. Online Learning Center. Apprenticeship. Events. WeAreChefs.com. ACFchefs.org. FEATURE STORIES 26 The Cuisine of South America A sensory exploration and brief historical journey of the cuisines of Brazil, Venezuela, Chile and beyond.

DEPARTMENTS 12 Management Culinary education today looks a lot different than last year, or even last semester. Here’s how some chef-instructors are approaching virtual and remote learning. If you like to 16 Main Course Even in an era of plant-based eating, whole-animal butchery hasn’t gone away and presents a more play with fire, environmentally friendly — and cost effective — approach to meat prep. you belong 19 On the Side In-house butchery requires special consideration when it comes to knife selection and maintenance. with us Plus, a fresh look at rabbit. 22 Pastry Crème anglaise, the simple dairy-and-egg-yolk combo and workhorse of every pastry kitchen, makes a comeback as consumers trace comforting classics. 24 Classical vs. Modern A study of the classic French dish, poulet sauté a la Bourguignonne, from Chef August Escoffier’s book, along with a modern pavé version by Chef J. Kevin Walker, CMC. 36 Health The wide breadth of seafood from Mississippi and the Gulf of Mexico offers chefs opportunities to introduce dishes that are both flavorful and good-for-you. 40 At the Bar Many bars may be closed at the moment due to COVID-19, but we can still learn how to make a trendy tea-based cocktail, or ones with decorative garnishes.

IN EACH ISSUE 4 President’s Message 34 Chef-to-Chef 6 On the Line 42 ACF Chef Profile 8 News Bites 46 The Quiz 14 Chapter Close-Up Membership. Certification. Online Learning Center. Apprenticeship. Events. WeAreChefs.com. ACFchefs.org. WEARECHEFS.COM 3 | President’s Message | Un Mensaje Del Presidente |

As we move through these challenging times and watch as our industry has changed dramatically, it’s easy to feel down or stuck. While I have both good and bad days, I’ve tried my best to look at the silver lining: This is truly a chance to change, grow and improve. Many of us have been forced to slow down (or speed up), shift quickly and rethink old strategies to find new ways to serve people. It’s no surprise ACF members are at the

Editor-in-Chief forefront of those changes, speedily transitioning to curbside Amelia Levin delivery, launching grocery stores in hospital cafes, sending hot Creative Services Manager meals and care kits to the elderly and those in need, and even David Ristau launching new foundations and programs to help raise money for others. Graphic Designer During this time of volatility in our society and industry, I couldn’t be more excited to come Armando Mitra back on board as your president. Please know we as a board are working tirelessly to meet your Advertising and Event Sales Eric Gershowitz needs by listening to your concerns, suggestions and feedback while growing and strengthening Jeff Rhodes our organization. It is our goal to get us up to speed now while looking forward to 2021 and Director of Marketing and Communications the possibilities in front of us. It may be hard to think ahead when every day can bring a new Alan Sterling surprise, but I believe we have a bright future because our member base is made up of the best and brightest minds in our industry. American Culinary Federation, Inc. As an ACF member since the mid-1970s and former president from 2013 to 2017, many of 180 Center Place Way • St. Augustine, FL 32095 you already know a little about me. But, as we have so many new members, I would like to briefly (800) 624-9458 • (904) 824-4468 • Fax: (904) 940-0741 introduce myself. In addition to serving two terms as ACF president, I also served as ACF national [email protected] • [email protected] secretary for one term, American Academy of Chefs chair for two terms and American Academy of www.acfchefs.org Chefs vice chair for two terms. I also have served as an apprentice chair and as a competition judge and have helped with many international competitions. In 2004, I coached the ACF Youth Team, Board of Directors and have since been involved in other team competitions as a business manager. I’m also the chair President of the ACF Educational Foundation. Thomas Macrina, CEC®, CCA®, AAC® My culinary career began after receiving my Associate of Science degree, with honors, from National Secretary Mark Wright, CEC, AAC The Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, New York, in 1976. I went on to serve as executive National Treasurer chef at a variety of resorts and hotels. In 2011, I joined US Foods as an executive chef/product James Taylor, CEC, AAC, MBA specialist manager for the Philadelphia division and was selected in 2013 as a Food Fanatics Chef American Academy of Chefs Chair for the company, a position I still hold. Americo “Rico” DiFronzo, CEC, CCA, AAC But enough about me. I want to extend a huge thank you to the ACF events team for their Vice President Central Region Steven Jilleba, CMC®, CCE®, AAC incredibly hard work in putting together the ACF’s first-ever virtual convention, all within just a Vice President Northeast Region matter of weeks. Based on the feedback I received from ACF member and non-member participants Barry R. Young, CEC, CCE, AAC alike, the virtual convention was a success, and the sessions and speakers were stellar. Vice President Southeast Region As I write this letter, ChefConnect: Nashville is set to be a hybrid event, with some in-person Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC®, CCA, AAC sessions (masks and social distancing required) as well as live-streaming for a virtual option. We Vice President Western Region Robert W. Phillips, CEC, CCA, AAC are closely monitoring the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention and state guidelines in case Executive Director we need to move to a more remote setup. Heidi Cramb Either way, based on the success of the 2020 ACF Virtual Convention, we know our group has the capability to come together, even during challenging times, and continue to share ideas and best The National Culinary Review® (ISSN 0747-7716), September/ practices while making new connections and maintaining our longtime friendships. To register or October 2020, Volume 44, Number 5, is owned by the American learn more about the safety protocols we are implementing for the event, visit acfchefs.org. Culinary Federation, Inc. (ACF) and is produced 6 times a year by ACF, located at 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095. A Speaking of making connections, if you haven’t already done so, I encourage you to check digital subscription to the National Culinary Review® is included out Chef’s Table, ACF’s new online community forum, launched this summer. This forum was with ACF membership dues; print subscriptions are available to ACF members for $25 per year, domestic; nonmember intended to be a tight-knit, private space for you, our members, so you can share ideas and subscriptions are $40. Material from the National Culinary Review®, talk to one another. Connectivity and community has always been a key component of ACF in whole or in part, may not be reproduced without written membership, but in today’s world, they are even more important. permission. All views and opinions expressed in the National Culinary Review® are those of the author and do not necessarily As we move forward, feel free to continue to reach out to ACF and any and all board reflect the views and opinions of the officers or members of ACF. members, including me, with a call or email. We take our positions as board members extremely Changes of mailing address should be sent to ACF’s national office: 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095; (800) 624- seriously because we know you elected us to lead as well as to serve you. Now is the time for new 9458; Fax (904) 940-0741. beginnings. Together, let’s continue to be agents of progress — not only for our organization, but The National Culinary Review® is mailed and periodical postage for the industry at large. is paid at St. Augustine, Fla., and additional post offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to the National Culinary Review®, 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095.

Thomas “Tom” Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC National President American Culinary Federation

Contact me at [email protected] or follow me on Twitter @cheftommacrina and Instagram @cheftommacrina

4 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 A medida que avanzamos en estos tiempos desafiantes y vemos cómo nuestra industria ha cambiado drásticamente, es fácil sentirnos deprimidos o estancados. Si bien tengo días buenos y malos, he hecho todo lo posible para ver el lado positivo: Esta es una verdadera oportunidad para cambiar, crecer y mejorar. Muchos de nosotros nos hemos visto obligados a bajar la velocidad (o a acelerar), cambiar rápidamente y repensar viejas estrategias para encontrar nuevas formas de ofrecer nuestro servicio. No es de extrañar que los miembros de ACF estén a la vanguardia de esos cambios; muchos pasaron rápidamente a ofrecer servicios de entrega de puerta en puerta, abrieron tiendas de comestibles en los cafés de los hospitales, enviaron comidas calientes y kits de atención a los ancianos y los más necesitados, e incluso crearon nuevas fundaciones y programas para ayudar a recaudar dinero para otros. Durante este tiempo de volatilidad en nuestra sociedad e industria, no podría estar más emocionado de incorporarme como su presidente. Sepan que, como junta, trabajamos incansablemente para satisfacer sus necesidades escuchando sus inquietudes, sugerencias y comentarios, y a la vez esforzándonos en pos del crecimiento y el fortalecimiento de nuestra organización. Nuestro objetivo es ponernos al día ahora mientras esperamos el 2021 y las posibilidades que tengamos por delante. Tal vez sea difícil pensar en el futuro cuando cada día puede traer una nueva sorpresa, pero creo que tenemos un futuro brillante por delante, porque nuestra base de miembros está conformada por las mejores y más brillantes mentes de la industria. Dado que soy miembro de ACF desde mediados de la década de 1970 y fui presidente entre 2013 y 2017, muchos de ustedes ya saben un poco sobre mí. Sin embargo, como tenemos tantos miembros nuevos, me gustaría presentarme brevemente. Además de cumplir dos mandatos como presidente de la ACF, también me desempeñé como secretario nacional de la ACF durante un mandato, presidente de la Academia Estadounidense de Chefs durante dos mandatos y vicepresidente de la Academia Estadounidense de Chefs durante dos mandatos. También me desempeñé como aprendiz de director y como juez de competencia y he ayudado en muchas competencias internacionales. En 2004, entrené al Equipo Juvenil de la ACF y desde entonces he participado en otras competencias de equipos como gerente comercial. También soy director de la Fundación Educativa ACF. Mi carrera culinaria comenzó después de recibir mi título de Asociado en Ciencias, con honores, del Instituto Culinario de América, Hyde Park, Nueva York, en 1976. Luego de eso me desempeñé como chef ejecutivo en una variedad de complejos turísticos y hoteles. En 2011, me uní a US Foods como chef ejecutivo/ gerente especialista en productos para la División de Filadelfia y en 2013 fui seleccionado como Chef Fanático de los Alimentos para la compañía, un puesto que todavía ocupo. Pero ya basta de hablar de mí. Quiero dar muchísimas gracias al equipo de eventos de ACF por su increíble y arduo trabajo en la preparación de la primera convención virtual de ACF, todo en cuestión de semanas. Según los comentarios que recibí tanto de los miembros de ACF como de los participantes no asociados, la convención virtual fue un éxito y las sesiones y los oradores fueron estelares. Mientras escribo esta carta, ChefConnect: Nashville se prepara para ser un evento híbrido, con algunas sesiones presenciales (con máscaras y distanciamiento social), así como también transmisiones en vivo para quienes asistan en forma virtual. Estamos siguiendo de cerca los lineamientos de los Centros para el Control y la Prevención de Enfermedades y las pautas estatales en caso de que necesitemos pasar a una configuración más remota. De cualquier manera, basándonos en el éxito de la Convención Virtual ACF 2020, sabemos que nuestro grupo tiene la capacidad de unirse, incluso en tiempos difíciles, y continuar compartiendo ideas y mejores prácticas mientras conformamos nuevos lazos y mantenemos nuestras amistades de siempre. Para registrarse u obtener más información sobre los protocolos de seguridad que estamos implementando para el evento, ingrese en acfchefs.org. Hablando de entablar lazos, si aún no lo han hecho, los invito a que visiten Chef's Table, el nuevo foro de la comunidad en línea de la ACF, que se presentó este verano. Este foro fue diseñado como un espacio privado y unido para que ustedes, nuestros miembros, puedan intercambiar perspectivas e ideas. La conectividad y la comunidad siempre han sido un componente fundamental de la membresía de ACF, pero en el mundo actual, son aún más importantes. A medida que avanzamos, no duden en seguir comunicándose con ACF y con todos y cada uno de los miembros de la junta, incluido yo, con una llamada o un mensaje de correo electrónico. Nos tomamos muy en serio nuestras posiciones como miembros de la junta porque sabemos que ustedes nos eligieron para liderar y servirles. Este es el momento para un nuevo comienzo. Juntos, sigamos siendo agentes del progreso, no solo para nuestra organización, sino para la industria en general.

Thomas “Tom” Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC Presidente Nacional American Culinary Federation

WEARECHEFS.COM 5 | On the Line |

What’s Cooking on We Are Chefs The latest stories recap powerful sessions from the first-ever ACF Virtual Convention, “Around the World in 80 Plates,” held Aug. 3 to 5. To view all recorded videos, visit bit.ly/acfvirtcon. State of the Culinary Industry This wildly popular session during the virtual convention featured four ACF members with Certified Master Chef (CMC) credentials talking about COVID-19’s impact on the culinary industry in terms of jobs, operations, technology and more, and what we can do to move forward as a team to recover and grow. Moderated by James Corwell, executive chef and innovations officer at Ocean Hugger Foods, the panel also included commentary from Chefs Joseph Leonardi, Shawn Loving and Russell Scott. Farming During COVID-19 Two sessions offered a look at farming from a chef’s point of view. “Chef and Farmer; Agriculture from a Culinarian’s Perspective,” hosted by Farmer Lee Jones, co-owner of The Chef’s Garden and The Culinary Vegetable Institute in Milan, Ohio, talked about the ways he’s had to shift gears as a result of the coronavirus pandemic, and how chefs can best work with him and other small farmers to maximize creative uses for fresh ingredients. In “Exploring World Flavors; Inspired Grains,” hosted by Chef Jay Ziobrowski, CEC, president of ACF Chefs of Charlotte Inc., talked about how to incorporate different grains in dishes to reduce their carbon footprint and up the nutritional and flavor components. A “Wok-ing Tour” Celebrity Chef Martin Yan, host of the popular, now-classic “Yan Can Cook, So Can You” TV show, talked about how to select your wok and the different ways to use this workhorse — not just in Chinese cooking, but for steaming, sautéing and stir-frying all types of ingredients. Perfecting Plating and “Phonetography” ACF Chef Scott Craig of Myers Park Country Club in Charlotte, North Carolina, provided tips on how to prepare winning plates during competitions. In “Picture Perfect Plates; Food Phonetography 101,” professional food and beverage photographer Leigh Loftus illustrated how chefs can take photos of their food on their cell phone that more accurately represent the culinary artistry of their dishes. Thoughts and Recipes from Jacques Pépin Legendary chef Jacques Pépin offered some inspiration to chefs here and abroad during his convention keynote speech. He also demonstrated a few dishes. We’ve posted recipes from two of his demos: Baked Salmon with Braised Belgian Endive, and Roast Breast of Veal with Caramelized Root Vegetables and Natural Au Jus.

The Culinary Insider, the Follow the ACF on ACF’s bi-weekly newsletter, your favorite social offers timely information media platforms: about events, certification, @acfchefs member discounts, the newest blog posts, @acfchefs Twitter question of competitions, contests and much more. Sign up at acfchefs.org/tci. @acf_chefs the month: What is the most dramatic change you Sure, digital is environmentally friendly... @acfchefs have made to your kitchen setup as a American result of COVID-19? but paper smells better. Culinary Tweet us your answer using the A digital subscription to NCR is included with ACF membership, Federation hashtag #ACFasks and we’ll retweet but members can now get a one-year print subscription for just our favorites. $25! Visit acfchefs.org/ncr to get yours today.

6 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 share generously. eat naturally. ldeliciously i v e . When you choose Prosciutto di San Daniele PDO, Grana Padano PDO and Prosciutto di Parma PDO, you show a passion for the Italian way of life that includes incomparably delicious, natural food that’s never mass-produced or processed. Each of these products carries the Protected Designation of Origin seal, the European Union’s guarantee of quality and authenticity, so you know they are from a specifi c geographical region in Italy and are created using traditional techniques that have set the standard of culinary excellence for generations.

Learn more about these icons of European taste at iconsofeuropeantaste.eu

The content of this promotion campaign represents the views of the author only and is his/her sole responsibility. The European Commission and the Consumers, Health, Agriculture and Food Executive Agency (CHAFEA) do not accept any responsibility for any use that may be made of the information it contains.

CAMPAIGN FINANCED THE EUROPEAN UNION SUPPORTS WITH AID FROM THE CAMPAIGNS THAT PROMOTE HIGH EUROPEAN UNION. QUALITY AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS. | News Bites | NEWS BITES

The impetus behind launching the online community as a member benefit was to create a collaborative space that could help members have closer-knit conversations. “We’re really seeing some grassroots connections among members and chapters without [their] having to rely on or wait for meetings and events,” Syrowik says. “ACF is always looking to improve the member experience and add value. Now more than ever, community is needed among ACF members, and Chef’s Table is playing a vital role during the pandemic while members are ACF Launches Chef’s Table unable to gather in person.” ACF is pleased to announce the launch of Chef’s Table, a new To join the discussion, visit chefs-table.acfchefs.org and enter online forum dedicated to you, our members. In the first six the same user ID and password you use to log into the ACF weeks since the launch, more than 1,000 members logged in and website. Forgot your login information? Call ACF Membership exchanged more than 400 topics and replies. On average, each Team at 904-824-4468 to gain immediate access. post generates about six replies, which outshines the average of just two replies per post for most associations, according to data from Higher Logic, the platform provider with which ACF has ACF Certification Badges: partnered to develop the forum. Digital. Secure. Verified. “This shows just how engaged and collaborative our community truly is,” says Joseph Syrowick, director of membership As the premier certifying body for cooks and chefs in America, development for the ACF. “The key is community, especially ACF remains committed to providing you with the tools to during these challenging times, when we’re not traveling or achieve your professional goals. We are pleased to announce the seeing each other in person as much. Associations are and launch of a new way to communicate the ACF credentials you should be of, for and by the members, and Chef’s Table allows have earned in the ever-expanding online marketplace — at no our members just that — [a way] to facilitate their own dialogue cost to you! and discussion.” We have partnered with Credly’s Acclaim platform to provide Hot topics so far have centered around the coronavirus and its you with a digital version of your credentials. Digital badges effects on the culinary profession; ACF certifications; the ways can be used in email signatures or digital resumes, and on culinary instructors are preparing for the new school year in a social media sites such as LinkedIn, Facebook and Twitter. This pandemic; the status of upcoming food shows; securing the best digital image contains verified metadata that describes your Personal Protective Equipment for culinarians; mental health qualifications and the processes required to earn them. and wellness; and diversity and inclusion in our kitchens. If you are ACF-certified, you will be receiving an email with Chef’s Table “is also fast becoming a clearinghouse for ACF additional information. If you do not receive an email by Sept. 8, Chapters, as a number of our 170 chapters are announcing 2020, please send an email to [email protected]. Learn more their upcoming virtual chapter meetings using the forum, and about ACF’s digital badges on acfchefs.org/badges. they are making these meetings available to all ACF members, regardless of where they live,” Syrowik says.

8 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 love proudly. eat classically. ldeliciously i v e .

When you choose Prosciutto di San Daniele PDO, Grana Padano PDO and Prosciutto di Parma PDO, you show a passion for the Italian way of life that includes incomparably delicious, natural food that’s never mass-produced or processed. Each of these products carries the Protected Designation of Origin seal, the European Union’s guarantee of quality and authenticity, so you know they are from a specifi c geographical region in Italy and are created using traditional techniques that have set the standard of culinary excellence for generations.

Learn more about these icons of European taste at iconsofeuropeantaste.eu

The content of this promotion campaign represents the views of the author only and is his/her sole responsibility. The European Commission and the Consumers, Health, Agriculture and Food Executive Agency (CHAFEA) do not accept any responsibility for any use that may be made of the information it contains.

CAMPAIGN FINANCED THE EUROPEAN UNION SUPPORTS WITH AID FROM THE CAMPAIGNS THAT PROMOTE HIGH EUROPEAN UNION. QUALITY AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS. | News Bites |

Special Elections

ACF ran a Special Election for Nominations Back to School Online and Elections Chair. We accepted Intent to Learning Bundle Run Forms through Sept. 5, 2020. In addition, nominations have begun for positions on the ACF Students and instructors, welcome back to school! We have the tools you Board of Directors and will remain open until need to enhance your culinary education and be successful in a virtual Dec. 1. Visit the ACF Elections page for more or hybrid learning model. Purchase our Back to School online learning information and Intent to Run forms. Please note bundle to receive four online, self-paced courses and one practice test to that the American Academy of Chefs election earn the ACF Certificate of Culinary Essentials. This bundle is valued at is handled separately. If you have any questions, more than $700 and could be yours for only $99 for ACF members ($199 contact [email protected]. for nonmembers). It will be available until Sept. 30 from the ACF Online Learning Center at acfchefs.org/OLC. Courses included are: ACFEF Healthy Eating • Introduction to Foodservice • Food Prep I Outreach Grant • Culinary Nutrition American Culinary Federation Education • Safety and Sanitation Foundation (ACFEF), through the Chef & Child initiative, is offering ACF chefs and chapters grant AHF Association Partnership funding to support nutrition outreach activities in their communities. The grant deadline is Sept. 31. ACF signed an association partnership with the Association of Healthcare Visit acfchefs.org for more information. Foodservice (AHF). Through this new partnership, both associations will collaborate on projects, webinars and promotion of ACF Certification, as well as aim to uplift and support all healthcare/senior-living chefs and their teams, who have been important frontline workers during the pandemic and beyond.

10 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 SALUT ACF chapters in Florida (ACF Central Florida, Palm Beach, Mid Florida Chef Morris Salerno was selected as East Coast and Tampa Bay) have ACF Texas Chef of the Year. Chef continued to set up distribution sites Salerno is the executive chef of to feed families in need. Chefs from Bistecca − An Italian Steakhouse, in these chapters are working with Five Highland Village, Texas. He was also Star Gourmet Foods and farmers in recently inducted into the Honorary Florida to distribute 10-pound boxes of fresh Fellow of the American Academy of Chefs, as well as into the fruits and vegetables. Circle of Honor for the Texas Chefs Association. The Atlanta Chefs Association partnered Chef Jennifer Denlinger, Ph.D., with Athena Farms to supply more than CCC, CHEP, of the Southeast 11,200 vegetable boxes for those in need region, was selected as ACF over 13 weeks this past summer. The team National Educator of the Year. at the East Lake Foundation helped the ACF chapter secure a donation site at the East Lake YMCA.

Digital. Secure. Verified.

As the premier certifying body for cooks and chefs in America, The American Culinary Federation remains committed to providing you with the tools to achieve your professional goals. We are pleased to announce the launch of a new way to communicate the ACF credentials you have earned in the ever-expanding online marketplace — at no cost to you!

WEARECHEFS.COM 11 | Management |

COVID-19 AND CULINARY SCHOOLS Chef-instructors detail their strategies for teaching with pandemic precautions. // by Michael Costa

Fall is traditionally back-to-school season, but because FEWER STUDENTS, MORE SPACE of coronavirus, education in 2020 has been anything All of the instructors we interviewed say kitchen classes but traditional. While many K-12 schools and have been reduced to between eight and 18 students, universities have pivoted to online learning in lieu of in- depending on the size of the space and what’s allowed in their person classes, culinary schools across the country are state, with no partner work or group activities. At schools with making tough decisions about the kitchen classrooms a large number of students, lab time is staggered, and those not that provide crucial hands-on in a kitchen classroom on designated days take their experience for aspiring chefs. courses online instead. “This is an applied degree, Because COVID-19 remains a fluid situation, so individuals need to actually some schools are preparing for an entirely at-home execute the techniques in order learning environment, if necessary. “If that happens, to learn them, and this should be our students will [use] a Zoom link for class, and under the guidance of a face- instructors [either] will evaluate student work visually, to-face instructor,” says Chef with review from family members, or will require a self- Michael McGreal, CEC, CCE, evaluation,” explains Chef Jennifer Denlinger, CCC®, Culinary Arts Department CHEP, Culinary Management Program Department Chair at Joliet Junior College, Chair at the Poinciana Campus of Valencia College in City Center Campus, in Joliet, Orlando, Florida. “Recipes have also been modified so Illinois. “Online classwork in students can use equipment and supplies they have in culinary is like teaching an art their household. Curriculum is technique- or theory- appreciation class focused on driven, not recipe-driven, which allows for substitution theory, as opposed to an art class of ingredients, flavors and cooking vessels.” Chef Michael McGreal, CEC, CCE, where students actually create. In culinary arts department chair, Joliet Anticipating a possible shutdown during fall the art appreciation class, no one Junior College, Joliet, Illinois semester, Chef Denlinger frontloaded essential lab becomes an artist or develops any courses for students so they can complete those classes artistic skills.” before a possible closure. When the school actually was The reality of COVID-19 means most lecture shut down this past spring, Denlinger and her team put together classes, like cost control or nutrition, for example, at-home kits with supplies and ingredients for about 30 students have moved to real-time, virtual environments like who needed kitchen work in order to graduate that semester, Zoom, Yuja and Blackboard, with some customized with students documenting their work through photos for further through school-produced instructional videos evaluation. It’s a template she’d use again if necessary, or for and demos. Meanwhile, kitchen classrooms have students who may be quarantined at home. been modified to accommodate social distancing and “We ran to the store for boxes and other supplies we other pandemic precautions. We spoke with several needed, assembled the kits, and then had a contactless pick-up chef-instructors to see how their plans have pivoted system,” she says. “Students and their instructors were given due to the crisis, and what changes they think might precise information to follow, and then students turned in the be permanent. assignments with photos for grading.”

12 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 Reconfiguring kitchens for social classes — groups of nine students each, dramatically impact the way students distancing has been a relatively simple task alternating kitchen days to allow for handle tools, serviceware, china, plated at some schools, because many already social distancing — and they have no dishes and more.” have spacious workstations to give students problem with the procedures in place.” Chef Edward Adel, culinary more room while they learn the basics. At instructor at Johnson County Joliet Junior College, for example, only CATALYST FOR CHANGE Community College in Overland Park, eight students during the pandemic are Sanitation education is vital to any Kansas, adds, “The real change with allowed per class, which leaves 12 feet of culinary program; HACCP, ServSafe coronavirus is the increased emphasis space between each person. and others are required training to on sanitation. In our industry, this has All the instructors we contacted say ensure food safety. Now, COVID-19 always been important, but now we must masks are mandatory on campus, gloves has amplified that focus with a deeper be hyper-diligent. We sanitize surfaces are required while handling food, and emphasis on clean workstations and before and after uses, including tables at places like Daytona State College in surrounding environments, with and chairs in the classroom area.” Daytona Beach, Florida, students must the Centers for Disease Control and Overall, instructors say what they sign a waiver stating they will adhere Prevention, for one, adding additional teach during the pandemic ultimately to COVID-19 safety protocols, or risk guidelines to its current safety protocol. needs to reflect what’s happening in the being removed from the program. “All Some instructors think this will help real world of restaurants, catering and of our students enter the building at reinforce certain sanitation habits that professional foodservice, so students can one designated door, where they’ll be can sometimes become lax in the kitchen. navigate this new landscape as they enter checked in and have their temperature “We have the opportunity now to the workforce. taken with an infrared thermometer,” improve how we clean as we go, and fix “The No. 1 goal of our school’s task says Chef Costa Magoulas, dean, School improper glove usage and improper hand force has been to incorporate every of Hospitality and Culinary Management washing,” Chef McGreal says. “Adhering learning opportunity we can to work at Daytona State. “We added the waiver to requirements necessary to deal with with COVID-19 and not against it, this summer to coincide with our hybrid COVID-19 also has the potential to because that learning curve will be

Culinary students at Joliet Junior College College will continue to receive hands-on culinary needed for the industry,” says Chef training, but masks and social distancing are required. Shawn Loving, CMC, instructor and Culinary Arts Department Chair at Schoolcraft College in Livonia, Michigan. “We’re training our students for the possibilities of what will take place in the industry, with smaller numbers of people in dining rooms, and new approaches for à la carte, modern buffets and controlled family- style service.” The next step for culinary instructors, and the wider education system, is to gauge when it will be OK to return to traditional teaching techniques, curriculum and classroom instruction, or whether some of the adjustments made during the pandemic are permanent. The chefs we talked to say the current changes are here to stay at least into 2021.

Michael Costa is the former editorial director of Hotel F&B magazine and a regular contributor to NCR.

WEARECHEFS.COM 13 | Chapter Close-Up |

CHAPTER CLOSE-UP: ACF Central Florida Chefs Association Chef Joe Alfano, CEC, AAC, president // By Lynda Gail Alfano, marketing director

The American Culinary Federation’s Central Florida Chapter Village, for the vacation of a lifetime. Every year, our chefs host was established in 1973, making it one of the earliest ACF a Christmas dinner at the resort, providing a holiday feast for chapters in the state. With the mission of promoting the every family there. professional image of the American chef in the Central Florida Over the years, our chapter has partnered with and area, the founders’ first goal was to support and achieve supported many local charity organizations. Our chefs have certification. Some of our chapter founders went on to be prepared fundraising Thanksgiving dinners at Second Harvest some of the first chefs to achieve the Certified Executive Chef Food Bank of Central Florida, as well as meals for victims designation. Among the early and founding members of our of hurricanes and the pandemic. We participate every year chapter were Chefs Keith Keogh, CEC, AAC; Gus Stamatin, in fundraisers like the Cattle Baron’s Ball, which supports CEC; Klaus Friedenreich, CMC, AAC; Johnny Rivers, CEC, the American Cancer Society; Taste! Central Florida, which AAC; and Louis Perrotte, CEC, AAC. supports both the Second Harvest Food Bank and the Coalition Orlando has long been a great location for chefs, as it is a hub for the Homeless; and Share Our Strength, whose campaigns for the hospitality industry, with a huge variety of theme parks, include No Kid Hungry. resorts, country clubs and restaurants. Chefs have found a home This summer, we joined many ACF chapters in organizing in the ACF CFC, and competitive involvement has always massive produce giveaways to support our local community. been a hallmark of our chapter. Five of our members have Every Friday in July and August, Chef Bryan Frick, CEC, reached the highest honor of ACF National Chef of the Year: AAC (event chairperson) and dozens of our chapter members Chefs Russell Scott, CMC; Joe Amendola, CEPC, CCE, AAC; handed out more than 11,200 boxes of produce. By the end of Klaus Friedenreich, CMC, AAC; Steve Jayson, CEC, AAC; the summer, we had distributed 120,000 pounds of produce and Reimund Pitz, CEC, CCE, AAC. In addition, two other to local families in need. Only a dedicated and selfless army chefs from our chapter, Chefs Steven Rujak and Andreas Proisl, of volunteers can make that kind of effort successful, and that CEPC, AAC, have won the highest award on the pastry side — army was our chapter members. Many of them have also felt the National Pastry Chef of the Year. impact of the shutdowns in the form of layoffs and furloughs, but they gave selflessly. In return, our chapter used these An Eye on Charity produce giveaway events as an incentive program — they gave Another mission of the ACF Central Florida Chapter has their time, and we gave back to them by assisting them with always included community involvement. Our chefs aspire to their ACF annual dues renewals. be culinary leaders, and leadership begins with giving back. For 26 years, our chapter has sponsored Give Kids The World, Awards and Events an organization dedicated to children with critical illnesses. Our chapter is so proud to add two more national awards to Kids and their families come from around the world to a our members just this year: The 2020 Chef Educator of the Year special resort here in the Orlando area, Give Kids The World was awarded to Chef Jennifer Denlinger, Ph.D., CCC, CHEP

14 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 (Valencia College, Chef-Instructor and Culinary Management Department Chair), and the 2020 Hermann G. Rusch Chef’s Achievement was awarded to Chef Louis Perrotte, CEC, AAC. From left: Chefs Joe Alfano, CEC, AAC (President); Jennifer Denlinger, Ph.D., CCC, CHEP (Vice For almost 26 years, our chapter has President); Terrence Tookes, CEC (Treasurer); Bob Costello (Secretary); Andreas Proisl, CEPC, AAC hosted the Culinary Arts Competition, a large (Sergeant at Arms); and Bryan Frick, CEC, AAC (Immediate Past President). competitive event that annually features four like many of our sister chapters, we’ve learned that we can still or more ACF-sanctioned competitions in hot be together in spirit, even while social distancing. food and pastry categories, with as much as $70,000 in prize The ACF Central Florida Chapter has thrived for 47 money. Our competition has become a staple at the Florida years because of the awesome involvement of our chapter Restaurant & Lodging Show, held in Orlando every year. For members, to whom we are thankful. Through them, we have the past three years, we have added to our event two special changed with the industry. We have partnered with local competitions just for aspiring young chefs and sous chefs. companies and culinary schools. We have raised money to The first is through a partnership with Florida ProStart in support everyone from culinary teams to hurricane survivors. which 15 student teams from high school culinary programs Our chefs have risen to every leadership challenge, from throughout Florida compete for bragging rights. The other is a competitions to mentorships. And we have so much more give. competition to inspire sous chefs to showcase their creations Every year brings new opportunities to grow and expand the as “The Next Big Thing,” through a partnership with Scott reach of chefs in our area. Joseph, a local food consultant. The appeal of Orlando has brought many conventions to our city and has given our chapter the opportunity to host this epic event many times. Chef Roger Newell, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC, has led our volunteer team almost every time — and he’s dusting off that event binder once again, because we are on the calendar to host in 2021. We can’t wait to welcome chefs from "ONLY A DEDICATED around the country to the ACF National Convention (and to our 50/50 Raffle). AND SELFLESS ARMY OF When we couldn’t gather during the shutdowns, we moved VOLUNTEERS CAN MAKE into a new communications space. We’d hosted many virtual board meetings before, but in June, we launched our first THAT KIND OF EFFORT webinar, open to our members and community guests. We called it “Adapt & Thrive: Reopening into a New Normal.” And SUCCESSFUL, AND THAT ARMY WAS OUR CHAPTER MEMBERS."

WEARECHEFS.COM 15 | Main Course |

Pandemic or not, consumers are looking for more from their meat, and chefs are obliging By Amanda Baltazar

There may be a plant-based craze going with the marbling, makes it an amazing on right now, but vegan foods aren’t for cut,” he says, adding that he smokes everyone. Plenty of American consumers the plate to make beef bacon, offering a still seek meat-rich meals, which helps unique spin on a classic favorite. keep the art of butchery alive. He also expects to see more tri-tip, We checked in with some chefs to shoulder clods, flat meats like skirts, find out the trends in that world. chuck roll, chuck steak and offal. There’s LESS EXPENSIVE CUTS also the butcher’s filet, which was traditionally what the butcher took home Americans are looking for comfort because it was the beefiest, “yummiest” food, given all the uncertainty cut. Also known as the hanging tender, surrounding COVID-19, which means it's located near the animal’s kidney. “It’s inexpensive cuts, says Chef Jeffrey Schlissel, president of the Palm Beach not the sexiest cut of meat, but it has Chefs Association and an active ACF the marbling of a filet and the beefiness chef for more than 20 years. He has a of a ribeye, so it lives in the best of passion for butchery and runs Bacon both worlds. I’ve ‘Szechuaned’ it with a Cartel, an online pork resale and catering glaze; done it with rubs; grilled it,” Chef business based in Boca Raton, Florida. Schlissel says. One of his favorites is beef plate, Many chefs don’t want to cook these which is near the flank and the brisket. “It lesser cuts because they take so long, he says, has grain in two ways, but the fat content, “but the end products are phenomenal.”

16 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 Chef Marc Hennessy (left); Chef Justin Severino (right) DRY AGING “Guests are looking for an experience Of the 42 menu items at Knife in and a stronger flavor of steak and a better Dallas, nine or 10 are dry aged. “Dry texture,” he says, noting that dry aging aging meat allows it to become richer, has gone beyond being just a fad. “It’s tighter and beefier,” says Chef/Owner going to stick around.” John Tesar, who ages the meat for up to 240 days. Most popular are his ribeye UNUSUAL CUTS and sirloin; he’s also featured short aged Since Chef Hennessy started pork chops on the menu, which are aged buying whole animals, he’s finding up to 21 days. new cuts he didn’t use before. “There’s Chef Tesar has been experimenting a country-cut, bone-in filet under the with white mold from his lox for the past sirloin, after the short loin cut,” he says. six years and is hoping Knife will be the first restaurant in the country to use this “It’s the full end of the beef tenderloin, natural white mold for beef. Others, he so it’s the fattest, thickest part of it.” says, inoculate their steak to grow the Each cow has just four to six of these, mold, and typically buy the culture from “so it’s a luxury cut,” he says; he charges a purveyor, rather than doing it in-house. $150 for a 20-ounce steak. He’s also experimenting with dry-aged foie Chef Hennessy has given some of gras, which “is quite amazing, because it these cuts their own names, such as the concentrates the sweetness and nuttiness,” “Atlas Pin Chop,” a large cut from the he says. “By eliminating the moisture, it same area with bone and sirloin intact, leaves 100% fat, and changes the texture, which is cut after the porterhouse. allowing us to cook it several ways.” He’s also found a way to remove the All consumers are becoming entire flat iron steak, bone in, which he dry professional diners, so dry aging is ages for more than a month. “We created important, says Chef Marc Hennessy a really cool steak we’d never heard of cut of Baltimore steakhouse Monarque. this way,” Chef Hennessy says. “It’s really

WEARECHEFS.COM 17 | Main Course |

Chef John Tesar (left); Chef Jeffrey Schlissel (right) MEAT BY THE BOX soft and super tender, and has an iron-y Two years ago, Chef Justin Severino launched flavor due to where it is.” Salty Pork Bits, a retail charcuterie company that CARED-FOR MEAT ships nationwide. Also the co-owner of Morcilla in Pittsburgh, Chef Severino started Salty Pork Bits as Meat that has no hormones or a subscription-based company; it now sells options antibiotics, and is non-GMO and grass- such as Spanish, Italian or French boxes, each typically fed, is becoming increasingly important containing four salamis. to America’s dining public and its chefs. The boxes feature charcuterie, and Chef Severino, a “I want things that are more wholesome whole-animal butcher and chef, is getting ready to add for our guests,” Chef Hennessy says. And, more meats like pancetta and bacon. In his repertoire are he adds, these products have become less about 64 flavors of salami. expensive while, at the same time, “guests Chef Severino is most excited about his two- are more willing to spend the money.” ingredient salamis because “we take things that are At RARE Steakhouse — where, until beautiful when in season and do as little possible to recently, Hennessy served as executive them,” he explains. Of course, they have salt, sugar, chef — the grass-fed, local, all-natural nitrites and starter culture, which makes the salami safe, beef products have their own menu but beyond that, he likes to add just one ingredient to category; that section constituted 35% the meat, such as padrone pepper, smoked apple, tomato, to 37% of sales. During the COVID-19 ramps or green garlic. “We focus on trying to perfect shutdown, the steakhouse — which simple dishes, which is much harder to do than a dish has locations in Madison, Wisconsin; with many ingredients,” he says. Milwaukee; and Washington, D.C. — The products are local as much as possible, as well as ran a butcher’s shop, and these products seasonal. “It’s such a great representation of where we sold really well. “[They] never lost [their] are geographically and seasonally,” Chef Severino says. demand. People are looking for healthier Amanda Baltazar is a food and beverage reporter based food and want to know where their food in the soggy Pacific Northwest, who writes for and about is coming from,” Chef Hennessy says. chefs and restaurant operations.

18 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 | On the Side |

KNIVES OUT One chef offers his tips for butchery knife selection and maintenance

Chef Jeffrey Schlissel, “kingpin” and owner of The Bacon much of the blade down, and it’s vital to use the right degree. Cartel in Boca Raton, Florida., relies on three knives: a Sharp knives are important, he says, because the sharper good boning knife, a boning saw and a meat cleaver. He the knife, the less force you have to use; additionally, the also gets a lot of use out of his cimeter, which he says is sharper the knife, the less chance of cutting yourself. like a machete, but ribbed for slicing through fat “so it Chef Schlissel sharpen his knives at least once a makes it easier to cut.” week, but typically every couple of days. “I’m constantly The most important thing when buying a knife is to doing it,” he says, but warns: “You can mess them up— hold it, he says: “It’s about the balance and how it feels they become one-sided with more of an edge on one in your hand.” However, his preference is for high- side. There’s a sweet spot.” His sharpener of choice is a carbon German steel knives, simply because that’s what wet stone, and he says he loves sharpening: “Sharpening he grew up with. But also, he says, with these knives, a knife is a very Zen-like act; you become one with “it’s easier to maintain the edges, especially if you’re a knife.” He never gives his knives to professional going to be whacking a lot of meat.” Chef Schlissel sharpeners; he doesn’t feel the need. points out it’s not the butcher’s strength that breaks For chefs just starting out, Chef Schlissel down the meat; rather, it’s gravity and the knife. “It’s recommends buying an inexpensive knife. “Beat it up to about learning where those grains of meat meet — how the point where you’re going to have to sharpen it, and it’s connected and how to cut the connection.” use that to hone your skills, rather than messing up a As important as the knives: having a good steel with $100 or a $400 knife. Use that $20 knife to practice.” which to sharpen them. Chef Schlissel does a lot of Chef Schlissel takes care of his knives. He washes sharpening, and points out that “the more force you use, them every time he uses them, and when he changes the more you’re breaking the blade; the edge gets out of what he’s cutting, to prevent cross-contamination. alignment, and using a steel brings back the alignment.” “Every time you open up a new package, it has a chance When sharpening, he says, it’s important to not grind too of having a foodborne illness,” he says. -AB

WEARECHEFS.COM 19 | On the Side |

Lean and healthy, rabbit also makes for a sustainable and versatile meat // By Rob Benes

Editor’s Note: This article was previously Department of Agriculture. Rabbit also has appeal across a scheduled to appear in the March-April multitude of markets, as Muslims, Christians, Hindus and Jews issue, but was moved to make room for a have no religious prohibitions from consuming rabbit meat. COVID-19 special issue. Some of the menu Rabbit is a relatively inexpensive protein to source, too, with items may no longer be available, but the dressed and processed rabbit meat selling for between $6 and ideas and uses for rabbit remain valid. $7 per pound. “Deboning and breaking down a raw rabbit can Diner interest in healthy eating be a bit difficult, [because] it has tiny bones,” Chef Beltran says. combined with chefs’ ongoing quests for “It’s also much easier to use a whole rabbit [because] they’re just new ingredients have led to a resurgence a few pounds, compared [with] buying a 200-pound pig.” in the use of rabbit. Rabbit can be compared to chicken as being a blank canvas, “More chefs are realizing that rabbit is but it offers so much more. “Rabbit has a clean and mild flavor actually a sustainable protein, and when on its own, but it picks up myriad flavors easily and very well, done right, tastes delicious,” says Michael so it’s a versatile protein for all types of cuisines,” Chef Beltran Beltran, executive chef of Ariete in Coconut says. He menus a rabbit pâté with a compote of mamey (a Grove, Florida. “I also think diners are tropical fruit featured in the July-August issue of NCR), grain opening up to eating what could be mustard and house-made white bread. considered to be more of an exotic meat.” Here are a few more examples of rabbit on menus: Compared with beef, pork, lamb, • Rabbit Curry by Chef Nina Compton and Levi Raines, turkey, veal and chicken, rabbit has Bywater American Bistro, New Orleans. Trimmed leg the highest percentage of protein, the portions are seasoned with warm spices, arranged in a hotel lowest percentage of fat and the fewest pan and marinated for two hours, then covered with rabbit oil calories per pound, according to the U.S. and cooked in a combi oven at 300-degrees F for two hours.

20 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 Fried rabbit livers by Chef Isaac Toups (credit: Toups' Meatery, New Orleans) (above); rabbit curry at Bywater American Bistro, New Orleans (credit: Denny Culbert) (below).

The legs are allowed to cool in the oil, then removed, vacuum- sealed and reserved in the cooler until needed. The meat is eventually added to a curry made with rabbit trimmings, chicken wings, chicken drumettes, warm spices, coconut milk, ginger, turmeric, onion, habanero and brown stock. When served, the curry mixture is ladled into a bowl, jasmine white rice is spooned on the side and a cooked rabbit leg is set in the curry. The dish is garnished with toasted pecans and cilantro. • Rabbit Pappardelle by Chef Nathan Duensing, Marsh House, Nashville. Rabbit legs and bellies are seared and then braised with aromatics for two hours in brown stock. The fall-off-the-bone meat is then added to a pan of sautéed garlic, parsley, rosemary, tomato sauce and reduced braising liquid, and cooked until a loose sauce is made. Finally, cooked pappardelle and herbs are added and tossed together. The dish is garnished with Parmesan and olive oil. rabbit offal are folded into a simple • Fried Rabbit Livers by Chef Isaac Toups, Toups’ Meatery, chicken mousse. The mousse mixture New Orleans. Rabbit livers are marinated in sherry for 30 is spread over rabbit loins, wrapped minutes, dipped in an egg wash, dredged in a mixture of in guanciale, seared and browned in popcorn salt, white pepper, flour and cornmeal, and then a hot pan, wrapped in cling film, and deep-fried in 350-degrees F peanut oil for two to three minutes. poached in simmering water for 12 The livers are served warm on a bed of Romesco sauce and minutes. The loins are topped with garnished with a chilled carrot-apple slaw. hot butter at the pass before serving. Rob Benes is a Chicago-based food • Rabbit Loins by Chef Philip Whitmarsh, Jewel of the industry journalist. He can be reached at South, New Orleans. Confit meat of rabbit hind legs and [email protected].

WEARECHEFS.COM 21 | Pastry |

REVISITING CRÈME ANGLAISE

An English cream with a French name / By Robert Wemischner

On the surface, with its short ingredient “Because it’s so versatile, it’s a list, crème anglaise does not seem classic,” says Chef Natasha Capper, very promising as an element of a executive pastry chef at Piedmont sophisticated dessert. At its base, it is Driving Club in Atlanta, who calls it a only a mixture of liquid dairy (milk or workhorse in the pastry kitchen. “When cream, or a combination of the two), egg making crème anglaise, I like to think of yolks, sugar and a flavoring of choice. it as a marathon, not a race. The mixture That’s it. is far more forgiving when cooked over Yet it is a classic for a reason. a mild flame and attended to constantly; Every pastry chef worth his or her never walk away from it during that sugar calls upon process. Low and slow is the way to go. this perfectly When done, the mixture should reach balanced about 175-degrees F.” combination of Shirley O. Corriher echoes Capper’s ingredients for sentiments, writing in one of her books, use in many ways, “BakeWise,” “Stirred custards without whether as a starch, like crème anglaise ... require plating sauce or as very low heat and constant stirring.” a base for mousse, She sums things up by looking at the ice cream, science behind the sauce, noting the Bavarian cream, making of crème anglaise involves crème brûlée cooking liquid dairy with egg yolks and crémeux (a (about 25% of the weight of the dairy) sauce that’s set and some sugar (about 15% to 20% of with chocolate or the dairy). Beyond lending sweetness, gelatin, or both). the sugar slows down the bonding When properly of the protein in the eggs, yielding made, this mother a mixture with the consistency of sauce of the heavy cream at serving temperature. It sweet kitchen lends richness, a sense of should not taste eggy; that’s usually an luxury and a pleasant mouthfeel to just indication that the mixture was cooked about any dessert. at too high a temperature.

22 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 Apple cider cake with cranberries and crème anglaise by Chef Natasha Capper, Piedmont Driving Club, Atlanta (opposite); floating island (flan) with caramel and crème anglaise by Chef Capper (left); crème anglaise-based hazelnut semifreddo with flourless chocolate cake, burnt orange sauce, blood orange and kumquat confit by Chef Michael Zebrowski, Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, New York (right)

Andy Chlebana, author of “The students rely on visual cues to indicate when the sauce is done,” Advanced Art of Baking and Pastry,” and he says. In addition to creating a crémeux that’s jellified with a chef-instructor at Joliet Junior College chocolate, he’s also made an Orange Dreamsicle Bavarian cream in Joliet, Illinois, says about crème in which the crème anglaise is set with gelatin and the mixture anglaise: “It’s not a set-it-and-forget-it is lightened with whipped cream. kind of preparation. When I teach it, it’s Harking back to an oldie but goodie, Blount also enthuses not only about the sauce; it’s also about about oeufs à la neige (snow eggs). In this no-waste classic, all the steps to a setting up a complete mise of the egg is used. Ingenious and thrifty, the dessert features en place, [because] timing is everything egg yolks for the crème anglaise, which serves as the pool once you begin the process of cooking upon which milk-poached, egg white-based meringues float. any egg-based preparation.” Classically, a bit of golden caramel and toasted almonds finish Chef Chlebana recommends cooking the ensemble. the mixture to 175-degrees F and says Chef Michael Zebrowski, an instructor at the Culinary that stirring with a heatproof silicon Institute of America and co-author of “The Pastry Chef’s Little spatula, rather than aerating the mixture Black Book,” uses a soda siphon with CO2 chargers to aerate with a whisk when it’s being cooked in a a finished crème anglaise. “I also love to make a semifreddo saucepan, leads to the best result. Taking — which merges the chilled custard sauce with meringue and the mixture once step further, Chlebana whipped cream in a frozen molded dessert — flavoring it with also likes to process the sauce using an everything from pureed, sweetened chestnuts to Armagnac, a immersion blender to create a light foam French brandy; Grand Marnier; or a croquant of hazelnut and as a final fillip on a plated dessert. almond,” he adds. Chef Geoffrey Blount, program chair With its quartet of ingredients each playing an important for baking and pastry at the International role, crème anglaise is a symphony of flavor and texture. Today, Culinary Institute of Myrtle Beach in as we reach for comforting classics in a time when everything South Carolina, challenges his students old seems new again, consider reconsidering this sauce as a by asking them to create five things versatile addition to any pastry pantry. with a well-made crème anglaise. “After Robert Wemischner is a longtime instructor of professional baking a couple of times using a thermometer at Los Angeles Trade Technical College and the author of four when cooking the mixture, I insist that books, including “The Dessert Architect.”

WEARECHEFS.COM 23 | Classical vs. Modern |

Classical Poulet sauté a la Bourguignonne, which means “as prepared in Burgundy,” is perhaps a lesser-known French dish than its counterpart, boeuf a la Bourguignonne. Prepared with chicken instead of beef, the dish features the same rich pan sauce — with extra tang, thanks to the use of wine versus stock as the base — while sautéed onions, mushrooms and bacon build flavor and texture. The original recipe for this classic dish can be found in Auguste Escoffier’s “The Complete Guide to Modern Cookery.” The bacon, onions and mushrooms cook in butter until browned, then are set aside while whole chicken pieces sear in the rendered fat before roasting in a 350-degrees F oven to finish cooking. Meanwhile, fat is drained from the pan, and red wine and crushed garlic are added to deglaze. Butter, mixed with flour for a beurre manié, is whisked in to thicken. Classic pairings include sauteed spinach, herbed fingerling potatoes and roasted cauliflower.

24 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 Modern Chef J. Kevin Walker, CMC, executive chef of Ansley Golf Club in Atlanta, developed the modern rendition for poulet sauté a la Bourguignonne by creating a pavé that combines chicken breast cooked sous vide with porcini powder, and a wild mushroom mousseline, with applewood bacon slices lining the bottom. The pavé is served alongside chicken leg croquettes, a bacon-mushroom ragout and butternut squash two ways: pavé-style with ginger and baking spices, and simply roasted. A touch of bright-green, silken broccoli purée, pickled red pearl onions, and a simple garnish sauce made with reserved braising liquid emulsified with butter add pops of color. When Chef Walker plates a dish, he remembers something mentor and Chef Ferdinand Metz, CMC, told him: “Always look to see what you can take away from the plate to make it better.” For Chef Walker, the challenge with this dish was finding the balance between keeping the integrity of the ingredients while still creating a contemporary look. “Doing something simply is much harder than building it up,” he says. See the classical and modern recipes as well as more photos at wearechefs.com.

WEARECHEFS.COM 25 26 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 From Brazilian moqueca to Venezuelan fosforera, the foods and flavors from this continent hit all five senses // By Suzanne Hall

WEARECHEFS.COM 27 | South America |

ith 6.89 million square miles and approximately 429 million Wpeople spread over 12 countries, South America is a culinary gold mine, with a wealth of native ingredients. How they are used, of course, depends on the geography, history and people of each country. The cooking of South America is a cornucopia of distinctive dishes ranging from grilled reineta, a firm, mild fish popular in Chile, to chimichurri, the go-to condiment of Argentina, while ceviche, a dish of citrus-marinated raw seafood, has variations throughout the continent. Although many South American dishes are unfamiliar to American diners, they are becoming better known. “South America is such a big continent, with so many flavors, that it will keep growing in popularity in the U.S. throughout the next years,” says Venezuelan native Chef David Zamudio, executive sous chef at Baltimore’s Alma Cocina Latina, a restaurant specializing in the dishes of Venezuela. Brazilian Chef Manoella Buffara agrees. She is the owner of Manu, a small tasting-menu restaurant in Curitiba, Brazil, and Ella Brasileira, a much larger and more casual restaurant in New York City. “South American ingredients are different. People like to try new flavors,” she says. The earliest inhabitants of South America provided the inspiration and backdrop for the region’s cooking, but immigrants from around the world have added their own flavors and techniques — for example, lasagna and pizza sometimes appear on restaurant menus. Another example is pastei, a type of chicken pot pie that Jewish settlers brought to Suriname, while walnut- and-raisin fried rice and Chinese pepper steak are on the menu at Ñaño, an Ecuadorian restaurant in New York City owned by Chef Abel Castro. “We add some ingredients like cilantro and garlic to the rice,” he says, to give the dishes Ecuadorian flavor. Each group of settlers brought their own special flavors to South America, but South American cuisine has always focused mainly on what the land produces. Cold pulmay (soup) of rhubarb, copihue (Chile's national flower) and wild fruit candies (previous spread); duck aged in beeswax and finished on coals with plum leaves at Boragó in Santiago, Chile (top); ceviche with mussels, fish and shrimp, served with plantain chips and Ecuadorian lager at Ñaño in New York City (bottom); Coated pork and prawns at Manu in Brazil (credit: Rubens Kato) (opposite)

28 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 From Sweet Corn to Spicy Chiles salt and yellow chiles. Similarly, at Ñaño, Cultivated in South America for more potato chowder and potato patties filled than 5,000 years, corn is possibly the with cheese are on the menu. continent’s biggest food contribution Sweet and hot peppers are South to the rest of the world. Arepas, a America’s most important seasoning Venezuelan favorite, are corn cakes ingredient. Aji dulce is sweet pepper stuffed with a variety of fillings. “You sauce. Aji amarillo is a spicy yellow sauce can fill an arepa with any ingredient you for roasted chicken, vegetables, fries like — meat, cheese or vegetables,” Chef and fried yuca. The aji amarillo chile Zamudio says. He offers them with four pepper is a staple in Peruvian cooking; different fillings. “They are so adaptable a popular salad served at Alma Latina and can be a good option for vegan and Cocina features chopped kale, fried egg vegetarian customers.” and spicy honey, with a crispy garlic, aji Potatoes come in hundreds of amarillo and coconut dressing. “It’s very varieties and are fried, mashed, freeze powerful,” Chef Zamudio says. dried, baked, and combined with sauces. Tropical fruits like avocado, passion “In Chile, we have more than 400 fruit, coconut, mango and dozens more varieties,” says Chef Rodolfo Guzman, are used in desserts as well as savory owner of Boragó in Santiago, Chile. He dishes and salads; Alma Cocina Latina makes milcao, a potato bread, which he serves guasacaca, a creamy avocado and serves it with pebre, a sauce of chopped garlic sauce, with dishes like arepas. The tomatoes, onions, coriander, vinegar, No. 1 seller at Ñaño is seco de chivo,

WEARECHEFS.COM 29 | South America |

or goat stewed in naranjilla, a tropical citrus fruit resembling a cross between a pineapple and a lemon with a distinctive green juice. Root vegetables like yuca, manioc and cassava are ground, dried and roasted to make myriad South American dishes. In southern Brazil, home to Manu, tutu de feijão (a paste of beans and cassava flour) is a popular dish, while Alma Cocina Latina offers yuca fries and a crispy cassava bread. Proteins from Land and Sea While not as large a producer as Argentina and Brazil, Venezuela produces more than enough beef to supply the country. Beef dishes include

some familiar ones, like the 18-ounce USDA-prime ribeye Chef Zamudio serves with grilled seasonal chimichurri vegetables, micro greens and merkén, a Chilean spice blend combining spicy ají cacho de cabra, cumin, coriander and salt. Churrasco, the Portuguese

30 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 Pork fried rice at Ñaño in New York City (opposite); Mullet roe, papaya and pickled onions; quail egg, maté herb bernaise and tonic beans; seaweed, yogurt and mushroom with lettuce and pork fat at Manu in Brazil (credit: Rubens Kato) (clockwise from left) and Spanish word for grilled meat, is a staple in the cuisines of Brazil, Uruguay and Argentina, and is becoming increasingly popular in the U.S. Because it’s bordered by the Pacific Ocean, the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea, fish and seafood have long been used in South American cooking. Shrimp and other foods from the sea are widely featured in the cuisine of Suriname; Long Yard beans with dried shrimp and télo (fried cassava) with cod are two traditional dishes. Chef Buffara uses everything from sea urchins to oysters, grilled and smoked leeks, mussels, and raw fish with plantains in various dishes throughout her menu. “In northern Brazil, they make a stew with fish or shrimp and vegetables,” she says. “It’s called moqueca , and [is] made in a ceramic pot.” Chef Castro offers seafood cazuela, a combination of fish and shrimp with peanut sauce, on his menu. Encebollado de albacora, a tuna soup with yuca, herbs and spices topped with pickled onions, is another option.

WEARECHEFS.COM 31 | South America |

The food that chefs prepare at Ñaño in the center of her open kitchen. Some, and other South American restaurants but not all, of Chef Zamudio’s dishes in the U.S. and in their native countries are derived from traditional Venezuelan generally use traditional recipes, but recipes. “We put our own twist on them feature each chef’s personal touch. “We to make them our own,” he says, noting cook regional dishes that are only cooked his contemporary style is very different in Chile using the flavors of the land, but from traditional Venezuelan cooking. we cook them with originality,” Chef The cuisines of some South American Guzman explains. “Originality and well- countries are more familiar to U.S. done dishes are what’s important.” diners than others; for example, more and more cities are home to Brazilian Menuing Smart and churrascaria, which specialize in grilled Thoughtful Presentations meats. “Colombian food is very popular At Manu in Brazil, Chef Buffara in New York, but Ecuadorean food is very prepares dishes with traditional new to some,” Chef Castro says. To help techniques using local ingredients; his non-Ecuadorian customers feel more likewise, for Ella Brasileira in New comfortable, each dish on the menu is York, she has adapted her recipes to use described in detail. ingredients available there. Because Chef Zamudio is careful to present many Brazilian dishes are cooked over and name dishes in a way familiar to fire, she has a large wood-burning grill Americans. He makes a Venezuelan

32 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 South America’s National Dishes A national dish, in countries that have one, reflects a country’s culinary and cultural identity. These are the national dishes (always subject to argument) of South America.

Argentina – A selection of meats, called asados are grilled on a parrilla (large grill) and can include steaks, ribs, chorizo, mollejas (sweetbreads), chinchulínes (chitterlings) and morcilla (blood sausage).

Bolivia – Two national dishes are recognized. One is picante de pollo (chicken in a spicy sauce). The other is salteñas (savory pastries filled with beef, pork, or chicken with a sauce, and sometimes vegetables).

Brazil – Portuguese in origin, feijoada is a comforting black bean stew with beef and pork.

Chile – Curanto, a popular party food, is a stew of meat, seafood and vegetables, and anything else available.

Colombia – A feast more than a dish, bandeja paisa includes rice, plantains, arepas (corn cakes), avocado, minced meat, chorizo, black sausage, fried pork rind and a fried egg.

Ecuador – Some may disagree, but the official national dish of Ecuador is encebollado, a fish stew with onion, fresh tomato and spices such as pepper or coriander leaves.

A snack made from a twig dried plums, topped with edible flowers and sweet- Guyana – Authentic pepperpot is a stew of savory gum-paste leaves at Manu in Brazil (credit: Rubens Kato) (opposite); beef, pig trotter, salt and cassareep, a thick Chicken stew at Ñaño in New York City (above) brown syrup made from juice of grated cassava, sugar and spices. soup called fosforera that initially, not many of his American Paraguay – Sopa Paraguaya is a cornbread customers wanted to try. “We then decided to change the of cornmeal, eggs, lard or butter, fresh name to ‘Latin ramen,’ even though it is actually not a ramen; cheese, and sometimes onions. then more people chose it off the menu,” he says. “How things Peru – Ceviche in Peru is raw fish (often white sea bass) with limes, mixed with onions are presented is very important.” and hot pepper. It’s served with sweet South American chefs want to believe, and do believe, potato and cancha (toasted corn kernels). that as their foods become more familiar to diners in the Suriname – Of Jewish origin, the dish called U.S., their North American colleagues will begin to create pom’s main ingredient is pomtajer, a local root vegetable baked with chicken and their own adaptations to fit into their individual menus. A citrus juice. variety of Venezuelan arepas would be a good place to start. Uruguay – Chivito is a sandwich of sliced Chef Guzman believes the aforementioned milcao and pebre beef with mozzarella, tomatoes, mayonnaise, is another. Regardless of the flavors, dishes and ingredients black or green olives, and often bacon, fried you choose, given the size and diversity of the region, the or hard-boiled eggs, and ham. opportunities for experimenting with South American Venezuela – Pabellón criollo combines the cuisine of indigenous peoples, Europeans cuisine are nearly endless. and Africans. It’s made from stewed and shredded meat with rice, black beans, Suzanne Hall covers food, wine and travel from her home on banana and corn. Possum Creek in Tennessee. She has been a regular contributor to ACF publications for many years.

WEARECHEFS.COM 33 | Chef-to-Chef |

WILL CORONAVIRUS BE THE GREAT CULINARY EQUALIZER? by Chef Jennifer Hill Booker

In March, the COVID-19 virus had gained a solid foothold in the U.S. By April, the threat had become a full-blown pandemic. Its presence was felt across all corners of the foodservice industry; for restaurant owners and employees, the effects were particularly devastating. One by one, independently owned restaurants, as well as those owned by huge restaurant groups, began closing their doors. After the first round of state-mandated restrictions and stay-at-home orders, more than 26,000 restaurants had closed, according to data from Yelp, leaving those still open scrambling to find ways to be health compliant, but also profitable. By July, almost 16,000 restaurants had permanently closed, with more shutting their doors daily. Call me an optimist, but I believe the restaurant industry will survive the coronavirus pandemic. But even an optimist has to admit the restaurant industry will be forever changed. In particular, how we dine, and who owns and operates these establishments, will no longer look like it did before March. I must say I don’t believe that’s necessarily a bad thing. COVID-19: The Great Disrupter In the future of foodservice, the pre-COVID-19 restaurant model will be a thing of the past. Gone will be the hierarchies of who decides what acceptable restaurant food is, who gets the best chef and the most prestigious food awards, and more importantly, who gets the financing desperately needed to open and operate a viable foodservice operation. Although people of all nationalities and backgrounds can be found in restaurants across the country in both the front and back of the house, racial and gender disparity is nothing new in the foodservice industry. One has come to expect that the ownership and faces of a restaurant are seldom the same people cooking that food. I believe that the coronavirus is changing that.

34 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 COVID-19 has closed tens of thousands of restaurants without regard to who owns them, hinting that big restaurants that spend hundreds of thousands — even millions — on a traditional dining concept may be a thing of the past. Perhaps restaurants designed on a smaller scale that can offer a mixed in-house and off-premise dining experience are the future. Many of the restaurants currently open were either able to pivot to the emerging restaurant model of carry- out, delivery and/or grab-and-go, or applied existing elements of this model to their current concepts. There are a couple of interesting points to unpack with this new restaurant model, the most thought-provoking being that this model is not new at all. This style of service has been around for as long as there have been restaurants, but usually in poor neighborhoods and neighborhoods of color. In Mississippi, where I grew up, and in Michigan, New York, Florida and Oklahoma, where I have lived, many of our neighborhood “restaurants” were walk-ups, which are now being marketed as pick-ups. You called in your order, or you walked up to place it — usually through a window — and took your meal with you to eat elsewhere. Sometimes you could get limited grocery or pre-packaged items. Delivery, if available, was limited, and any seating was usually very sparse and/or outdoors. Another interesting point is these walk-ups were "CALL ME AN never considered real restaurants — not necessarily because of where they were located, or even because of what was being served, but more pointedly because OPTIMIST, BUT they did not fit into the established models of service and ownership. I see the coronavirus creating new business I BELIEVE THE models for all people. Due to a shift in where and how we eat, the culinary landscape will be forever RESTAURANT changed. Restaurants will become less about ego and status, and more about longevity and building a community. In a sense, this pandemic is acting as the INDUSTRY WILL great culinary equalizer, creating a level playing field where everyone with the talent and tenacity to open a restaurant can do so. SURVIVE THE

Chef Jennifer Hill Booker is a culinary consultant and author of “Dinner Déjà Vu: Southern Tonight, CORONAVIRUS French Tomorrow” and “Field Peas to Foie Gras: Southern Recipes with a French Accent,” and she released her newest kitchen resource, “Cookcentric Cookbook Journals,” this year. Learn more at PANDEMIC." ChefJenniferHillBooker.com.

WEARECHEFS.COM 35 | Health | MISSISSIPPI SEAFOOD Mississippi chefs highlight the state’s fresh—and healthful—catches in dishes ranging from shrimp scampi to crab Benedict. By Liz Barrett Foster

36 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 Mississippi has long been known for its crispy, fried catfish, but its proximity ON THE MENU to multiple bodies of water means there are many other — some perhaps In 2014, the Mississippi Hospitality more healthful — preparations of seafood in the state that chefs, locals and and Restaurant Association (MHRA) out-of-towners alike enjoy. In fact, the Magnolia State features more than established the Mississippi Seafood Trail 100 public freshwater lakes and 62 miles of saltwater coastline along the Gulf online database to promote restaurants of Mexico. “A lot of people don’t even realize that Mississippi has a border on that serve genuine wild-caught Gulf the sea,” says Chef Dan Blumenthal, co-owner and head chef of Bravo! Italian seafood. Pat Fontaine, executive director Restaurant & Bar in Jackson, Mississippi. of MHRA, and a Gulf Coast native, says Catfish, blue crab, shrimp and oysters are savored around the state, with he regularly finds redfish, red snapper the most common coastal finfish being speckled trout and redfish, according and speckled trout on many Mississippi to Ryan Bradley, director of Mississippi Commercial Fisheries United in menus. Here are just a few inspiring Long Beach. “Mississippi is dishes across the state. one of the only states that • Gulf shrimp, white rice and allows speckled trout and andouille sausage at Delta Meat redfish to be caught and Market in Cleveland by Executive sold commercially,” he says. Chef Cole Ellis “There’s limited supply, because these fish are also • Punjabi-style fried catfish with new- highly sought after for potato raita, collard greens and peach recreational use.” chutney at Snackbar in Oxford by Many anglers Chef Vishwesh Bhatt in Mississippi fish • Pan-seared Delta catfish topped recreationally for catfish, with crawfish sauce at Restaurant but restaurants serve Tyler in Starkville by Chef Jonathan mostly domestic, farm- “Ty” Thames raised catfish, which has Alex Eaton, chef and owner of The Manship in Jackson, • Redfish with lump crab meat, garlic a clean and mild taste. Mississippi, likes to catch, clean and serve a whole fish. mash, thin beans and charred tomato Unfortunately, some at Walker’s Drive-In in Jackson by consumers consider catfish to be “bottom feeders” and shy away from it. Executive Chef Derek Emerson Chef Nick Wallace, co-chair of Share the Gulf and owner of Nick Wallace Culinary in Jackson, says he actively teaches people about the versatility • Fried green tomato and Gulf blue crab of catfish. “It’s a fish I’ve been eating since I was a baby,” he adds. “We can Benedict for brunch at Charred in smoke it, sous vide it — we can do catfish all kinds of ways.” Ocean Springs by Chef Milton Joachim Redfish is another versatile fish, according to Chef Alex Eaton, owner of The Manship Wood Fired Kitchen in Jackson. Redfish can be fried, smoked, sautéed, broiled or grilled; at The Manship, Chef Eaton prepares what he calls a Gulf redfish “on the half shell,” because one side of the fish’s skin stays on for presentation to the guest. “We fillet the fish, leaving the skin and scales on; season the fish with sea salt, cracked pepper, garlic and olive oil; then roast it in our wood oven,” he says. “The fish stays extremely moist and can be scraped off the hardened skin, much like a baked potato.” Eaton serves the redfish alongside coconut- milk-curry spinach, making the dish dairy-free. Oysters are another popular dish in Mississippi, but the health of oysters in the Gulf and the livelihoods of oyster farmers have been threatened multiple times over the years, including by the Deepwater Horizon oil spill and multiple hurricanes, according to Bradley. The current danger they face involves prolonged freshwater exposure, which is causing high oyster

WEARECHEFS.COM 37 | Health |

TEACHABLE MOMENTS Many chefs believe teaching consumers about local, sustainable seafood is just as important as teaching them where their chicken or tomatoes originated. Chef Nick Wallace, co-chair of Share the Gulf and owner of Nick Wallace Culinary in Jackson, hosts seafood demonstrations before many of his events. “I’ll take a whole redfish and show guests how to butcher it,” he says. “I show them the collarbone, cheek and go through it all. It’s a teaching moment. I would expect it from my doctor or Chef Nick Wallace, owner of Nick Wallace Culinary, likes teaching young students and his clients about lawyer; why shouldn’t people expect it Mississippi’s seafood; Wallace enjoys combining fresh produce and fish, as we see here with his cobia, from their chef?” lemon and fresh peas.

mortality rates. To keep oysters available, oyster farmers have Bravo! also serves its own spin on shrimp scampi: “I sauté been permitted to set up floating cages off the coast of Biloxi, shrimp in extra virgin olive oil, garlic and butter, and then add behind Deer Island. “They’re producing beautiful, high-quality fresh mint and basil and toss it with pasta,” Chef Blumenthal oysters,” Bradley says. “It’s a method that’s been successful in says. “That one’s very Italian.” other states, but is new to Mississippi.” Whether taking the boat out for the weekend, calling a fisherman or sourcing from a local supplier, Mississippi chefs SOURCING AND PREPARING embrace fresh, local seafood in the same way they embrace the MENU FAVORITES state’s fresh produce. “Make a fisherman your friend the same way you would a farmer,” Chef Wallace says. Chefs Eaton, Blumenthal and Wallace are sometimes able to catch their own fish or collaborate with local fisherman. For Liz Barrett Foster is a Mississippi-based writer who enjoys fishing and growing vegetables with her Mississippi-native husband. the most part, though, they work with seafood suppliers based in New Orleans or Birmingham, Alabama, that have access to Mississippi seafood. No matter where they acquire the seafood, traceability Chef Dan Blumenthal, co- becomes more important every day. “A lot of the fish we get owner and head chef at Bravo! Italian Restaurant & Bar, says are in the Gulf Wild program and have a tag attached to them,” seafood is always a popular Chef Eaton says. “You can find out exactly where the fish was option at the restaurant (right). Bravo! puts its own spin on caught, the date it was caught, the captain who caught it, and shrimp scampi with the addition the boat it was caught on.” of mint and basil (below). Chef Eaton says he loves to catch, clean and serve a whole fish, often using the bones to make a stock. “I take the fish throats, clean them up and serve them like a seafood chicken wing on the bone,” he says. “The fillets are so fresh that all they need is a little bit of seasoning and a squeeze of fresh lemon.” A favorite at Bravo! has been the crab-crusted Gulf fish of the day. Blumenthal takes a fish such as cobia, wahoo, amberjack or mahi, and combines herbs, breadcrumbs, Creole mustard, lemon juice and mayonnaise to encrust the top before searing the fillet and finishing it in the oven.

38 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 I know how to keep bees, do you?

Learn beekeeping and more with ACF’s Online Learning Center! Get started at acfchefs.org/olc. | At the Bar |

SIPPERS

Hansel and Gretel from the Bluebird Cocktail Room & Pub, Baltimore

Tea cocktails are having a moment. Plus, a look at some modern, playful garnishes. // by Samantha Lande

Tea’s involvement in cocktails used to be just by name; lemon and whiskey. An easy, “ready-to-go” way to take, for example, a Long Island iced tea, which does incorporate tea in cocktails is to sub it for water not actually contain tea. As bar programs across the when making a simple syrup. “Start with boiling country have grown more sophisticated, however, water on the stovetop, drop in the tea bags to make bartenders are taking more notice of the nuances of tea. the tea and add sugar before cooling,” she says. Her Tea selections at restaurants and bars today have signature cocktail, My Cup of Tea, is made with expanded beyond the one-note English breakfast black a chamomile tea syrup, St. Germain, Port Cask tea to include varieties with different flavor profiles, Finished Virginia-Highland Whisky, lemon juice, from delicate white teas to earthier green teas and seltzer and plum bitters. fruity or floral herbal varieties. In cocktails, tea stands in as a nice substitute for juices or tonics, and makes a Straight to the Spirit great base for pairing with certain spirits, as well as a Not big on adding simple syrup to drinks? Take stellar ingredient for mocktails and warm drinks. And, tea straight to the spirit via an infusion. Beckwith as we move toward a more wellness-driven society, tea started experimenting with infusions when she also offers the added benefits of antioxidants. discovered smoked teas. “You can use leaves that Amanda Beckwith from Virginia Distillery have already been used once, to slightly decrease the Company in Lovingston, Virginia, fell in love with intensity, to infuse vodka, gin or whiskey,” she says. the use of tea in cocktails when she had her first “Put the tea leaves into the spirit for seven minutes, hot toddy, which typically is also made with honey, strain, and you are set.”

40 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 A Pop of Color For an easy tea infusion with a pop of color, Brandon Gorgeous Garnishes Lockman, the lead bartender at Red Star Tavern in Portland, When it comes to cocktail garnishes, what used Oregon, uses a hibiscus tea-infused gin, which gives drinks a to be somewhat of an afterthought — a lime or lemon pretty pink hue. “You can use the hibiscus as just a steeped tea wedge, a small skewer of cherries, maybe a paper mixed into the drink, and its strong, fruity flavor holds up well umbrella — is now yet another way to challenge the with liquors other than just gin,” he says. senses, whether it’s a piece of wood burning alongside Beckwith has also used butterfly-pea tea, a caffeine-free a smoky cocktail or edible flakes of gold. Here are herbal tea, to create a natural dark-blue hue for cocktails. some bars across the country upending the way we “It’s difficult to achieve bright colors naturally, but tea is think about garnishes. able to do that,” she says. Adding lime juice changes the pH, Hush Money, Chicago turning the dark-blue tea purple, for another wow factor The smoky Vip and Vigor cocktail, part of the bar’s from behind the bar. “apothecary series,” features burdock root, reposado Mocktail Mixers tequila, Lapsang Souchong and vermouth. And the garnish? Little plastic medicine capsules with staff- Tea makes the perfect base for alcohol-free drinks, adding written scrolls that offer funny fortunes like, “If you more nuance than just juice. At Red Star Tavern, Lockman eat something and nobody sees you eat it, it has no has introduced interesting combinations like turmeric and calories,” and “Your future is in another cocktail.” ginger teas paired with pineapple and lime juices, Bellagio, Las Vegas throwing in a bit of rum The Lemon Drop at the Mayfair Supper Club to make the tropical features a twist on the traditional. Bartenders use a mocktail a cocktail. “You special bubble gun to blow citrus aromas into a bubble can riff a mojito as well that sits on top of the martini glass. When the guest with matcha, mint, simple pops the bubble, it explodes with the smell of citrus. At syrup, soda water and lime, LAGO by Julian Serrano, the Rosso Bellini is topped with or without rum,” with a bird’s nest made of caramel and containing a he says. Hibiscus tea, golden raspberry. fresh raspberries, simple The Bluebird Cocktail Room & Pub, Baltimore syrup and a splash of club Among the many soda make a refreshing cocktails named after combination as well. Grimms’ Fairy Tales, the Proceed Blacksmith features gin mixed with pinecone syrup Shen Nong's Elixir. with Caution and is served with an actual For those who have never worked with tea in drinks pinecone encased in a crystal- before, consider starting with herbal teas, which don’t get clear, sphere-shaped ice cube. “oversteeped” as much as other teas do, Lockman says. “Green The Blacksmith from the teas and black teas can start to taste very bitter if you leave them Bluebird Cocktail Room & Pub, steeping too long,” he notes. On the flip side, Lockman warns Baltimore that “many spirits can mask teas pretty easily, so you’ll want to pick a whiskey that has lighter, [more] complementary notes to Samantha Lande is a Chicago-based food writer. Read her work the tea, or a spirit that will quickly adapt to the flavor of the tea, at samanthawrites.com. such as vodka.” All in all, tea opens many doors for experimentation behind the bar. “There are no real limitations,” says Lockman, whose latest pairing is Earl Grey with bergamot essential oil and vermouth. “But trial and error is crucial.”

WEARECHEFS.COM 41 | ACF Chef Profile |

BRYAN SKELDING, EXECUTIVE CHEF The Greenbrier, White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia

By Amelia Levin

season at the resort, but also come back years later in 2009 — and stay. For the last seven years, Chef Skelding has helmed the kitchen at The Greenbrier. The same year Chef Skelding came back, the Justice family of West Virginia (as in Jim Justice, the state’s governor) swooped in to not only buy out the treasured property, but also make major renovations to the grounds and facilities. Today, the resort has 20 restaurants and lounges, a state-of-the-art spa and fitness center, an outdoor golf course and indoor driving range, and 36 retail shops, as well as a brand-new, 100,000-square-foot casino. EARLY YEARS A Wisconsin native, Chef Skelding had an urge to travel after graduating from Madison Area Technical College in 1999, and bought a one-way ticket to Hawaii. “Within just a few days, I found a job at the Royal Hawaiian hotel, working with Chef Tom Wong,” he says. One day in Chef Wong’s kitchen, Chef Skelding noticed a plate on the wall covered in signatures. It had been given to Chef Wong after he graduated from the famed apprentice program at The Greenbrier, a place Chef Skelding knew nothing about at the time — a surprise to Chef Wong, to say the very least. Later, at Chef Wong’s wedding reception, Chef Skelding met Chef Hartmut Handke, one of the first Certified Master Chefs in the country, who helmed The Greenbrier kitchen Nestled in the heart of the Appalachian mountains and steeped from 1986 to 1991. Chef Handke offered Chef Skelding a in rich history, the origins of iconic West Virginia resort The job at his restaurant, Handke’s Cuisine, in Columbus, Ohio. Greenbrier date as far back as 1778, with a list of famous former Chef Skelding returned to the mainland to work under Chef guests that includes at least 27 presidents, not to mention many Handke’s tutelage for two years. other important figures from the U.S. and around the world. It was in 2002, at the young age of 25, that Chef Skelding Spanning 11,000 acres of land, featuring interiors outfitted took a temporary job at The Tavern, then The Greenbrier’s top with signature Greenbrier green leather upholstery, elegant restaurant, to gain experience working at the resort. When the chandeliers, majestic red painted walls, decorative woodwork, season ended, Chef Peter Timmins, CMC, offered him a job archways, marble pillars, stained glass and ornate fixtures, at Saucier at The Greenbrier, but he turned it down, instead the resort drips with old-fashioned luxury at every turn. Even heading out to work at L’Orangerie in West Hollywood. the kitchen doesn’t fail to impress, its vast sea of workhorse Chef Wong urged him to rethink the offer, based on a machines perfectly laid out for European-style execution — mistake he told Chef Skelding he had made when he was ideal environs for a chef looking to make an impact. younger: turning down a job at the resort and regretting it later. Chef Bryan Skelding knows this. It’s no surprise, then, Chef Skelding heeded the advice, calling up Chef Timmins that he jumped at the chance to not only work a summer to take the job as Saucier, which he held for two years. He was

42 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 later promoted to Sous Chef at Sam Snead’s at the Golf Club, a more, with the resort seeing its true heyday in the years since position he held for about two and a half years. the Justice family bought the property. Now, even during a Then, Chef Rich Rosendale, CMC, former executive chef pandemic, the resort remains almost as busy as ever, clocking at The Tavern at The Greenbrier, opened up his own restaurant more than 80,000 covers in the month of July alone. in Columbus, so Chef Skelding returned to Columbus to Though this year the resort hasn’t seen the large-scale events it work as chef de cuisine of Rosendale’s. Just over two years normally hosts, plenty of travelers, itching to get out of their homes, later, Chef Timmins moved on, opening up The Greenbrier’s have come for a stay. Guests enjoy the golf courses and outdoor executive chef position. Chef Rosendale got the job and took activities that remain open, as well as the dining experiences, Chef Skelding along for the ride as executive sous chef. currently operating at 50% capacity indoors, with masks required “My wife and I were starting a family at the time, and we knew in public places and tables spaced apart, some set in a tent outside. [the area] was a great place to raise a family, so we went for it,” he says. “We are a luxury destination with a very high drive-in market, This was in May 2009, after Governor Justice bought the so I wasn’t surprised to see us rebound as quickly as we have,” property. Chef Skelding knew he wanted to be a part of the says Chef Skelding, who adds that the phone for reservations has team rebuilding the legendary property, the initial expansion been ringing off the hook. “I’ve seen license plates from up and

of which included opening The Casino Club, Prime 44 West, down the East Coast, and even as far away as California.” Indeed, In-Fusion, a new Draper’s and The Forum. the resort looks like a Colonial-era beacon in the middle of a Then, on June 3, 2013, Chef Rosendale left, and Chef forest, tucked in a remote part of the state accessible to far out-of- Skelding was offered the executive chef position — an offer he towners only by small aircraft or shuttle from Roanoke Regional could not refuse. Airport in Virginia, roughly 80 miles away. In the kitchen, Chef Skelding has veered away from his GROWING FORWARD Midwestern roots to focus on local ingredients and dishes Since then, Chef Skelding has overseen a dizzying array from Appalachia, while paying homage to the traditions of the of fine-dining meals, changing menus, parties, weddings and resort’s dining history.

WEARECHEFS.COM 43 though we are somewhat of a seasonal property. Even in the colder months, we are busy working and planning ahead.” Chef Skelding also stays busy by helping to oversee the three-year, full-time apprentice program, which currently has 15 participants in both pastry and savory tracks. “It’s pretty cool to hear about everything they’re making in the kitchens, and to break out some of the old recipes from past menus; we all get very into it,” he says. Speaking of mentorship, when it comes to the best advice he’s been given, Chef Skelding says three things stick with him: “Always learn the fundamentals; use the right tool for the “My cooking style is rooted in right job; and taste everything.” classical French, with an American Outside of work, Chef Skelding flare and some Appalachian style,” says enjoys spending time with his wife Sarah Chef Skelding, who first learned to love — whom he met while she was working food growing up with a mom who made special events at The Greenbrier; they literally everything from scratch, even married in 2006 — and their two fresh muffins in the morning. “I might daughters, Lucy (12) and Hatcher (9). make a prime rib like the supper clubs He also enjoys dabbling in video, I grew up with, but I also enjoy braised having recently launched his own lady finger peas, fried chicken, fried YouTube channel, “Greenbrier green tomatoes. My style has always been Kitchen,” to show the inner workings ingredient driven — what’s local, close of the resort kitchen. He can be seen and fresh always has the best flavor.” posting about kitchen life on his He’s also a fan of offal, especially Instagram @bryanskelding as well sweetbreads, and has even been known (#greenbrierculinary). to serve grilled, cooled and sliced calf’s Right now, Chef Skelding says he spleen with housemade mustard and is very happy to be working steadily. baguettes. “I’ve been really into pâté en When asked how he’s been able to pivot croûte for the last two years,” he adds. during these times, he offers one word: Chef Skelding heads up a strong “survival.” “I count my blessings every culinary team, which consists of day that we’re as busy as we are.” Executive Sous Chef Nick Jones and Now more than ever, Chef Skelding Executive Pastry Chef Jean-François says his food has to taste amazing, “not Suteau, along with nearly 250 culinarians just because people pay a lot of money to and stewards, including a very talented come here, but [because] they’re coming group of chefs de cuisine for the various here during a time of stress for so many, restaurants, banquets and catering and [they] want an escape.” For The venues. “My favorite thing about my job Greenbrier and Chef Skelding, the long is my team — I am very fortunate to history continues. work with such great people,” he says. Not to mention, the job’s constantly changing: “No day is ever the same, even

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NCR Quiz Visit ACFCHEFS.ORG/OLC today September/October 2020 By LeeAnn Corrao, CFC®

The Mississippi Hospitality and Restaurant Association (MHRA) established the to promote restaurants that serve genuine wild-caught Gulf seafood. a. Local Seafood Tracker website b. Mississippi Seafood Trail online database c. Seafood Enthusiasts magazine d. Seafood Sustainability award

According to data from Yelp, more than restaurants had closed after the first round of state-mandated restrictions and stay-at-home orders. a. 10,000 b. 16,000 c. 26,000 d. 42,000 What root vegetables are used in South American cuisine? Which ACF chapter handed out more than 11,200 boxes of produce this summer to support their local community? a. yuca a. Central Florida Chapter b. manioc c. cassava b. Miami Chapter d. all of the above c. Middle Tennessee Chapter d. Monterey Bay Chapter Compared with Argentina and Brazil, Venezuela has a beef production. BACK TO SCHOOL SPECIAL Green teas and black teas can start to taste bitter if you leave them a. larger steeping too long. b. smaller a. true c. similar b. false BUNDLE AVAILABLE NOW In crème anglaise, sugar should be the weight of the dairy. a. 5% to 10 % Students and instructors, welcome back to school! We have b. 15% to 20% c. 25% to 30% the tools you need to enhance your culinary education and be d. 35% to 45% successful in a virtual or hybrid learning model. Purchase our Which of the following is not a base ingredient of crème anglaise? Back to School online learning bundle to receive four online, a. liquid dairy b. sugar self-paced courses AND one practice test to earn the ACF c. butter Certificate of Culinary Essentials. d. egg yolk Rabbit has a higher This bundle is valued at more than $700 and could be yours for percentage of protein and lower only $99 for ACF members | $199 for nonmembers. percentage of fat than . Available until 9/30 from the ACF Online a. beef b. veal Learning Center at ACFChefs.org/OLC c. pork d. all of the above Courses included: • Introduction to See the rest of the questions, finish the quiz and earn 4 CEHs toward your certification on ACF’s new Online Learning Center at acfchefs.org/olc. Foodservice • Food Prep I • Culinary Nutrition • Safety and Sanitation

46 NCR | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 Visit ACFCHEFS.ORG/OLC today

BACK TO SCHOOL SPECIAL BUNDLE AVAILABLE NOW Students and instructors, welcome back to school! We have the tools you need to enhance your culinary education and be successful in a virtual or hybrid learning model. Purchase our Back to School online learning bundle to receive four online, self-paced courses AND one practice test to earn the ACF Certificate of Culinary Essentials. This bundle is valued at more than $700 and could be yours for only $99 for ACF members | $199 for nonmembers. Available until 9/30 from the ACF Online Learning Center at ACFChefs.org/OLC Courses included: • Introduction to Foodservice • Food Prep I • Culinary Nutrition • Safety and Sanitation