GUINEA-BISSAU 371 bonjour, mon © Lonely Planet Publications : :  POPULATION: POPULATION:  245; international access code 00 245; international % 1.416 million Portuguese, Crioulo Country code Dry and mild (late November – February), hot and – February), November Dry and mild (late Guinea (Kandika open); Senegal Bissau From US$30 per day West African CFA franc; US$1 = CFA498 CFA West African There are none; come with cash or are There GMT/UTC 36,120 sq km Single entry valid for 45 days costs US$60. Required for all visitors Single entry valid for 45 days costs US$60. Required Area ATMs cheques travellers Borders open, São Domingos (Salikénié and Pirada sometimes closed – check ahead) Budget Capital Languages Money Population Seasons hot and rainy (June – October) humid (March – May & November), Telephone Time Visa Available (Ecowas) nations. States of Economic Community West Africa except citizens upon arrival at Bissau airport. arrival. Otherwise, arrange before

’ that signals the beginning of an unwelcome sales pitch. If you’re arriving from, say, of an unwelcome sales pitch. If you’re ’ that signals the beginning TELEPHONE CODE: TELEPHONE CODE:

FAST FACTS FACTS FAST            

The mainland, by contrast, provides a fine recapitulation of West Africa’s attractions, includ- of West Africa’s a fine recapitulation mainland, by contrast, provides The damaged by civil severely were Always poor, the country’s economy and infrastructure  ami of almost always just that – expressions are to find helpful gestures Dakar, you’ll be relieved kindness remarkable rather than a means to extract country’s other big draw? The cash. The lined with powdery, white-sand beaches, delta islands are These Arquipélago dos Bijagós. long pro- by a people whose matriarchal culture, and populated waters, washed by azure tides, is unlike any found in West Africa. by hidden sandbanks and treacherous tected in the south – home and rainforests beach at Varela a gorgeous rivers, ing mangrove-lined to elephants and chimpanzees. and food – Transport trying, and hotels 1990s. and communications remain war in the late seems to have national reconciliation However, no bargain. especially in the capital – are cautious optimism about the future. with peaceful elections in 2005, and there’s arrived Guinea-Bissau Like most sub-Saharan construct, yet it pos- nations, Guinea-Bissau is an arbitrary European and First sesses two qualities that make this small country stand out from its neighbours. hear the disingenuous ‘ You’ll almost never the people themselves. are foremost GUINEA-BISSAU

ITINERARIES relatively cool. to February, whenconditionsare dryand fall below30°C. tures to34°C.Daily maximumsrarely rise when average maximumdaytimetempera- months before therains(AprilandMay), Conditions are especiallyhumidinthe isfromJunetoOctober.The rainyseason CLIMATE &WHENTOGO 372 HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS      

The besttimetovisitisfromlate November o Bjgs (p376). Bijagós dos to IlhadeBubaqueintheArquipélago ( Bissau ing capital p374 ), before heading One Week amiablecafés. blackouts atthecapital’s Bissau African chimpanzee. berem of –thewesternmost habitat the andJem- junglearoundCatió dense Forests Sacred Skiring. Cap der fromSenegal’s beaches justoverundeveloped thebor- Varela kings andqueens. hippos after visitingthetombsof Bijagós Ilha deOrango friendlypeople.beaches anddisarmingly ( p377 ) Discover theisland’spowderysand Park –PoilãoNationalMarine João Vieira

     MUCH? HOW      LONELY INDEX PLANET

UNABSA • Hglgt GUINEA-BISSAU ••Highlights vendor Omelette sandwich fromstreet Souvenir T-shirt beer Bottle of Portuguese 1L bottledwater 1L petrol restaurant Main course inWestern-style 80cm) Woven indigocottoncloth(40cmx Nescafé Shared taxiride inBissau Small souvenir mask ( p374 ) Sipyourwaythrough ( p378 onthegorgeous) Laze but US$6 Spendadayortwointherelax- US$1 US$0.20 US$1.20 38 ) iapa it the into Disappear (p378) US$8 ( p377 rare,) Stalk salt-water US$5 US$1 US$4 US$0.50 US$1

for export, like it ornot. toplant groundnuts (peanuts) ing peasants direct rule,forc- 1926, he imposed Portuguese António Salazar cametopower inPortugal in dictator due animist tribes.When right-wing ties, includingthe FulaandMandinko, tosub- they alliedthemselves withMuslimethnici- terior Todo so, tocontinueextractwealth. hadtowincontrolofthe Portuguese thein- the endof theslave tradeinthe19thcentury, butwith limited tradingstations, tocoastal pepper andespeciallyslaves. interior, andwere soonextractinggold,ivory, navigable rivers thatfacilitated tradewiththe now Guinea-Bissau around1450.Theyfound navigatorsPortuguese first reached whatis &Colonisation Arrival European tory of thispartof WestAfrica,see p392 . For more information ontheprecolonial his- included partsof present-day Guinea-Bissau. the13thand15thcenturiesAD, ished between The great SahelEmpire of Mali, which flour- HISTORY

 

the south. Parque ( NaturaldeCantanhez p378 ) in Cacheu ( p377 ) inthenorthorsacred the Parque NaturaldosTarrafes doRio in-depth, such asmangrove swampsof ploring therich mainlandecosystems Weeks Three like IlhaJoãoVieira( p377 ). of theremoter butparadisiacalislands, saltwater hippos,andthencheck outone Head toOrango( p377 ), withitsrare, sider furtherexplorationsof theBijagós. Two Weeks For centuries the Portuguese presence was For centuriesthe Portuguese to instability. prone the Senegaleseborderisparticularly region around SãoDomingosandalong latest situationbefore arrival.Note thatthe tensions remain, sobesure to checkthe the 1998civilwar. However, underlying raised hopesoflastingstabilityfollowing Peaceful presidential in2005have elections WARNING sider bringing atrusted guide. beaten path,research yourroute andcon- and remote areas. Iftravelling faroff-the- There are stilllandminesinsomerural During a second week, con- week, During asecond Devote a third week toex- athirdweek Devote lonelyplanet.com Independence nation. ernment quicklyrecognised thefledgling regime fell gov- in1974,thenewPortuguese but freedom WhenSalazar’s wasinevitable. wasassassinated in1973, participation. Cabral andencouraged widespread political services The PAIGC builtschools, provided medical controlled halfthecountrywithinfive years. and started armingandmobilising peasants, Verdee Cabo (PAIGC). In1961thePAIGC tido AfricanodaIndependênciaGuiné whoin1956helpedfoundthePar-Cabral, wars of liberation. The result: oneof Africa’slongest, bloodiest refused torelinquish underhiscontrol. those rapidly winningindependence,butSalazar By theearly1960sAfricancolonieswere War ofLiberation lonelyplanet.com devolved intoacivilwar.devolved Vieirawasforcedto in nationalstrikes in1997,which quickly growing corruptionunderVieiraculminated enterprises. state off João Vieiratoabandon socialismandsell acoupin1986forced PresidentNevertheless cially relative tootherpostcolonial countries. espe- madesignificantinroads, socialist state rice productionhadfallenby71%.Thenew of children diedbefore theage of five and could read, life was35years, expectancy 45% problems. Onlyonein20people staggering Once inpower,thePAIGC government faced GUINEA-BISSAU ὈὈ Meanwhile poverty intractable as wellas The fatherof independencewasAmilcar A TLNIC O CEAN

Skiring Cap Arquipélago Biosphere Reserve

Varela

Bolama-Bijagós dos Unhocomo IIha de

IIha de Bijagós GUINEA-BISSAU ••Culture

Parque Natural

do RioCacheu dos Tarrafes Cas Islands Calequisse

NP a

mance IIha de Orango IIha de Ziguinchor IIha de

River São Domingos Quinhámel Cacheu Orangozinho Ilha de Canchungo Ilha de Ingore SENEGAL de Maio Ilha IIha de IIha Poilão National MP Roxa IIha Bubaque Town Prabis João Vieira – ὈὈ São Vicente Barro IIha de Ilha das Bula Ilha deJoão Joalande Vieira BISSAU Bolama Bigene João São Bissora Tanaf Enxudé Parque Natural de Cantanhez Catió Empada Mansôa brick houses roofedbrick houses withthatched grasses. subsistence farming.Villages consistof mud- people scratch outalivingfromfishing and fertile landmake hunger outright rare. Most poorest countries,regular rainsandrelatively ofQueens theBijagós, p377 ). Bijagós peoplehave very distinctcustoms(see andGuinea. the However, bouring Senegal ethnic cultures are inneigh- similartothose aggressive are salesmanship rare. Mainland Even city,violenceandeven inthe capital bourly goodwillthatisgenuinely remarkable. Guinea-Bissau nationalsare united byaneigh- Despite widereligious andethnicdifferences, CULTURE about theircountry’sfuture. nationals geneally express cautiousoptimism thecurrentdestabilise peace,Guinea-Bissau problems of corruptionandpoverty couldyet national reconciliation. Whilefundamental on exile torunasuccessfulcampaignbased president JoãoVieira,who returned from largely free andfair. Thewinner?Deposed the 2005presidential electionswere deemed Despite fears of continuedfactionalviolence, Guinea-Bissau Today over Guinea-Bissau’s northernborder. frequently spilled conflict insouthernSenegal the war-weary countryonedge, andseparatist coups kept subsequent several Nevertheless, commanders handedpower backtocivilians. in1999.Remarkably, military thecapital flee Farim Falacunda Cacine Bedanda While Guinea-Bissauisoneof theworld’s Buba Casselinta Mampatá Jemberem Forèa Salikénié Parque Natural Gêba Guilege de Cafatada Sanconha do Lagoa Bambadinca Quebo Xitole Tambacounda (170km)

Mampatá Gêba To Kounkane(20km); Vélingara (65km); Bafatá Waterfall

Saltinho River To Conakry (230km) Canjadude Kogon Corubal

River Gabú 40km 20miles 0 0 Boé Ché-Ché Boké Pirada GUINEA NP MP River Pitche To Koundara(45km); National Park Marine Park Kandika Labé (200km) Saréboïdo

373 GUINEA-BISSAU GUINEA-BISSAU GUINEA-BISSAU continues toremain flatasyoumove inland swamps andpatches of forest. Thelandscape areas are flat,andfeature estuaries,mangrove sq km(aboutthesizeof Switzerland).Coastal Guinea-Bissau hasanarea of justover 36,000 ENVIRONMENT edge. Latin colonial legacyhasgiventhe Portuguese ita Modern musicshares roots,though thesame mon. ThetraditionalGuineanbeat is kora Theharplikepeople of neighbouring Senegal. largely influencedby the Mandingo andDiola tinctive style. on theotherhand,have amore evolved dis- countries of theregion. TheBijagóspeople, sculpted figures andmasks,similartoother hasamodesttraditionofGuinea-Bissau ARTS along thecoastandinsouth. Animistbeliefsremainaround Bissau. strong up lessthan10%of thepopulation,mostly Mandingo) are Muslims.Christiansmake p377). (see are mostlyinhabited bytheBijagóspeople Mandingo (Mandinka). Theoffshore islands the Manjaco (orManjak), Papel, Fulupand Fula (20%)inthenorth.Othergroupsinclude andsouthernregionsin thecoastal andthe groups. Thetwolargest are (30%) theBalante 1.4 million,dividedamongsome23ethnic Current estimates putthepopulationatabout PEOPLE small-time merchants. no industry,mostpeopleeke outalivingas cities andtowns.Inanationwithvirtually foraluckyfew,Except life ishardlyeasierin 374 is lightly wooded savanna, though much wooded savanna, though is is lightly falcons. birds, including parrots,cranes andperegrine wetlands harbourastunning varietyofcoastal home of population. The Africa’schimpanzee forests of thesoutheastare themostwesterly nesting groundfor aquaticturtles.Therain- examples. TheBijagós are alsoanimportant hippos, whiletheBijagós have afew salt-water Sahel. but growsdrierasittransitions intothe Guinea-Bissau’s riversGuinea-Bissau’s shelter fresh-water On themainland,danceandmusicare About 45%of thepeople(mainlyFulaand The natural vegetation of theinland areas andthexylophone-like ISU • retto BISSAU ••Orientation balafon are com- gumbé . sees all the parks from Bissau. alltheparksfromBissau. sees edge of the towncentre isthe Mercado de dos Heróis Nacionais. Onthe northwestern theportand Praça running between Cabral, main dragisthewide AveBissau’s Amilcar ORIENTATION crime orhustle. of all,there’s ofday. Best adistinct absence cafés where thecountry’s elite gatherdayafter tractive, pastel-coloured buildings,andlively boasts wide,mango-shaded streets, someat- charms. crumbling colonialheart Thesleepy, holes andregular blackouts, has its Bissau Despite ruinedmonuments,cavernous pot- BISSAU often of levels high toxins. contain homemadedistilled products,whichBeware wine and are widelyavailable. Localbrews includepalm squash. Palm oilisanother key staple. generallyetables include okra,carrotsand yams, beansand onions andlimes.Riceissupplemented by with grilledorsautéed bream),(sea served including shrimp, oysters andmeaty of Guinean cuisine, isthehighlight Seafood FOOD &DRINK ( sacred forests.several planned toprotect estuarinemangroves and And Parque ( NaturaldeCantanhez p3678 ) is ( tada p378 ) protects rich freshwater wetlands. Buba, theParque deCafa- NaturaldeLagoa impressiveencompasses mangroves. Near Cacheu ( p377 ), neartheborderwithSenegal, land, theParque NaturaldosTarrafes doRio National Marine Park ( p377 ). Onthemain- tional Park ( p377 ) andJoãoVieira-Poilão which OrangoIslandsNa- contains Reserve, areas, includingtheBolama-Bijagós Biosphere rich waters coastal isagrowingconcern. and promoted erosion,andover-fishing in nutrients groundnut productionhasleeched of mangroves Extensive toriceplantations. nate thecoast. under cultivation.Mangrove swampsdomi- % Canned softCanned drinks,bottledwater and beer For more information, contact issuesincluderapidloss Environmental Guinea-Bissau hasanumberof protected 207106; RuaSãoTomé) caña decajeu mandioca , theinstitute thatover- (cashew-flower rum). (cassava). Veg- (cassava). lonelyplanet.com IBAP bica

and courtyard café. and courtyard gallery, theatre This newlyrebuilt centre hasalibrary,art and someEnglish. whospeaksFrench Dahrouge, pharmacy toseeDrKassem Eduardo Mondlane; sau’s poor-qualitymainhospital. 6pm Mon-Sat) SITEC Cybernet Café Access Internet Police Fire Emergency Franco-Bissao-Guinéen Culturel Centre Centres Cultural INFORMATION destinations. park),theairportandallinlandand taxi leads northwesttothemain Fromhere,Bandim. Ave de14Novembro Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com roof and shrapnel riddling itsneoclassical of Ave With abombed-out Amilcar Cabral. dos Heróis Nacionaisat thenorthernend The SIGHTS Tours Surire Guinetours Agencies Travel postoffice Main Post Supermercado Mavegro of scammers. Mostare honest,but bewarecado Central. are manymoneychangers aroundtheMer- cash (USdollars or,preferably, euros).There port istheonlybankthatreliably exchanges (BAO) daAfricaOcidental Banco nearthe Money Simão Mendes Moçambique Pharmacie Services Medical h ( has decent internet connections andair-con. has decentinternetconnections Mon-Sat, to6pmSun)Locatedoutsidethecitycentre, it cheques andcash,includingUSdollars. 9am-12.30pmSat)Exchangestravellers 3-6pm Tue-Fri, % 9am-10pm) ( 206816; PraçaChéGuevera; former % (Ave de14Novembro;perhrUS$3; ( % 118) 117) (

( % presidential palace presidential % (Rua Vitorino Costa;perhrUS$1.40; (RuaVitorino ( % 214344; Rua12) (Correio; Ave AmilcarCabral; h 214166; RuadeAngola) 212861; Ave Pansau NaIsna)Bis- 3.30-6pm Mon,9am-12.30pm& ( ( % % h 201224, 201216;Rua 205513) Askatthis 9am-10pm Mon-Sat) dominates Praça paragem h BISSAU ••Information

until 10pm h (bus 8am- garden andagood breakfast this is buffet, able, tasteful rooms,an attractive rooftop Amilcar Cabral;s/dUS$120/158; are high. prices very though stuffy; enough, fortable dependable powersupply. smallfridge andagenerally conditioning, TV, US$50/70; beds andair-conditioning. have itdoes crumbling plaster, newish though quarter, thishotel boastsrickety fixtures and US$50/70; lax cleanlinessandsecurity. choice nowboaststhinmattresses andrather town centre, traditionalbackpacker Bissau’s US$40) budget option. of onlyreal foamonacementfloorisBissau’s placeoffering bucketseedy water andapiece generally of poorvalue. isexpensiveAccommodation inBissau and SLEEPING the orderof theday. day. Music,masks,drinkinganddancingare leadinguptoAshduring theweek Wednes- It takes placeyearly inFebruary orearlyMarch Bissau’s FESTIVALS &EVENTS post andstrictlyoff limitstovisitors. by imposingstonewalls,it’sstillamilitary guarded bythe quarter.old Portuguese Theneighbourhood is are thenarrowstreets of themango-shaded peace. façade, it’sareminder of thecountry’sfragile 10pm) daily. noon to3pm) anddinner (around 7pm to ing restaurants are openforlunch (around indicated, thefollow- fish). Unless otherwise (about US$1 forariceplate withmeat or For cheap eats,trythericebars neartheport EATING onlygenuinelyBissau’s decentchoice. decent roomswithcoldrunning water, air- s/d US$71/92; Residencial Coimbra Residencial Jordani Aparthotel Ta-MarHotel Pensão Centrale Caracol Hotel the southernendofOff Ave AmilcarCabral Aparthotel Lobato Aparthotel Occupyingaonce-grand buildinginthe Carnival a a a ) ) Located intheoldPortuguese The friendlyJordanioffers half- )

Rooms are newish andcom- isthecountry’sbiggest party. (Ave rUS$20) CaetanoSemedo; Fortaleza d’Amura Fortaleza (

% (

%

( % ( % 206647; swithout/withbath

( 213270; Ave AmilcarCabral;r % 201719; Ave Pansau NaIsna;s/d 201719; Ave Pansau NaIsna; a 213467; fax201490;Ave ) Withcomfort- . Surrounded

This

375 GUINEA-BISSAU GUINEA-BISSAU GUINEA-BISSAU Newly refurbished restaurant inthehotel regularly scheduled flights, with services by regularly withservices scheduled flights, hasthecountry’sonlyairport with Bissau THERE&AWAY GETTING support youngartisans. and craftsof directly Guinea-Bissau. Proceeds shop provides afineintroductiontothearts marked pricesandnopressure tobuy,this Juvenil Artistico Centro SHOPPING and there are two free snooker tables. men ontheprowl.ThedécorisEuro-trendy from idealisticUNworkers toshadybusiness- ( Na Isna) cafés, includingthe A numberof restaurants alsodoubleasbar- ( café inthe Ché Guevara). The mostpopularcaféis DRINKING &ENTERTAINMENT perform. whentoplocalmusiciansregularlynights pointing, butit’sagreat spotonThursday The largely foodcanbedisap- Portuguese bringlivenights music. European feel, butoften so-sofood.Friday of name( thesame opposite ) hasadistinctly food inahumbleroadsidecafé. US$5) now-defunct cinema. dishesinhersimpleeatery aboveegalese the US$5) 376 anywhere intown. (CFA100) (about CFA1000) orataxi from 8am. For more information, see p381 . outside town.It’salways besttoget transport by 500m southof Ave de14Novembro, about5km attheoutdoor Senegal, about anywhere inthecountry,aswellto information. Air Portugaland Air Luxor. See p381 formore TACV Verde Cabo Airlines,AirSénégal,TAP (minibus) fromtheMercado deBandim % % To get tothe tojust You canget andminibuses bushtaxis X Club Jordani Restaurant Ta-Mar Restaurant Samaritana Restaurant 206647) Restaurant Magui Restaurant 206816; PraçaChéGuevera; The charming Magui serves spot-onSen- Thecharming Magui serves Simple but delicious Senegalese-inspired SimplebutdeliciousSenegalese-inspired RUPLG O IAÓ • GtigTee&Aa There &Away ARQUIPÉLAGO DOSBIJAGÓS••Getting onThursday andthe

(Rua OsualdoVieira) onFriday. Centre Culturel Franco-Bissao-Guinéen Culturel Centre French speakers mayprefer the paragem, (Ave Pansau NaIsna;mainsUS$8-10) Restaurant Jordani Restaurant

(mains US$8; (Ave de14Novembro) paragem, (Ave AmilcarCabral;meals

(off Ave Pansau NaIsna;meals h Gelataria Baiana Gelataria caters toeveryone take a 9am-10pm Mon-Sat) Restaurant Ta-Mar Restaurant hiddenabout h toca-toca (Ave Pansau 8am-9pm) With (Praça .

and is themost likely option. ( people).The baque (up toeight toBu- US$200 for aone-waytrip fromBissau camps hire atthecostof outspeedboats about uled departures. winds. Youcanalso askaroundforunsched- departure timesvaryaccordingtotidesand that followaregular schedule, weekly though canoas Setembro. There are Bissau–Bubaque several the fishermen’sportnearEstádio 24de –leaveleaky canoes fromPortRampa, Bissau pensive. and/orex- Transport totheislandsisdifficult &Away There Getting unreliable. –is –including mobileservice ephone service mud flats,limitingbeach going.Finally,tel- below ). Also,lowtidesreveal kilometres-long (see theislandsisdifficult to andbetween groups formnationalparks. declared whiletwoisland abiosphere reserve, pelago, includingitsrich marinelife, hasbeen control untilthe1930s.Nowentire archi- largely matriarchal peopleeludedPortuguese tides andtreacherous theisland’s sandbanks, lands exert asingularspell.Protected byswift powdery, white-sandbeaches, theBijagósis- With swayingpalms, coolingbreezes and BIJAGÓS ARQUIPÉLAGO DOS agem upAveBandim de14Novembro tothe US$0.20), includingarunfromMercado de major cityroutes (around and yellowserve town centre. than US$0.80perperson fortripswithinthe costmore andwhim,butnever to distance and plyallmainroutes. Pricesvaryaccording ways painted blueandwhite –are plentiful ofbout atthestart Ave de14Novembro. minibus (US$0.20),walk200mtotherounda- tre. Taxis intotown costaroundUS$4.Fora The airportisabout9kmfromthetowncen- AROUND GETTING % At theotherextreme, higher-end fishing Travellers shouldnote thattransport Small Shared –usuallyMercedes, taxis andal- 6-626277) andairport. (US$5perperson, fourtosix hours) Canoas toca-toca in Quinhámel hasarange of boats –large, andoften motorised (minibuses) painted blue (minibuses) lonelyplanet.com Hotel Marazul Hotel par-

tasteful, impeccably maintained bungalowstasteful, impeccablymaintained US$100; turn to Bissau, withregular,turn toBissau, multidayexcur- called the room withbucket shower. in allof thefollowingplaceshave shared bath- For cheap eats,headtotheportarea. Rooms mealsif you orderahead. Most hotels serve Sleeping &Eating (also calledBubaque). accommodation inandaroundthemaintown placetounwind.There’sfortable arange of it toremoter islands,Bubaquemakes acom- as itsmajor transport ‘hub’.Ifyoucan’tmake to thearchipelago’s largest town,which serves At thecentre of theBijagós,Bubaqueishome DEBUBAQUE ILHA fortheschedule andprices. in Bissau sions totheislands.Checkwithtravel agencies Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Portuguese owners also serve excellent food. owners also serve Portuguese onthe beach. The Italian- bungalows right meals CFA$60) ( of the Bijagóskingsandqueens. National Park. Theisland isalsotheburialsite islands together make uptheOrangoIslands crocodile, IlhadeOrangoand thesurrounding Home torare speciesof saltwater hippo and ORANGO ISLANDSNATIONAL PARK other islands. to two tofourhours) andoccasionalservices toOrango(US$4, also fairlyregular service For travel see to/fromBissau, left . There is &Away There Getting with barandpool,water views. has fullyequippedrooms,attractive grounds recommended.papayas. Highly owner’sownpigsand including thePortuguese are deliciousamalgamsof localingredients – arranged aroundalushgarden.Meals (US$6) justaboveperched onasmallbluff thewater. ganises fishingtripsandtransport. ganises The owneralsohasagood,fastboatandor- cent roomsatthebackof garden. apleasant pensão % Chez Titi At thetimeof ship writingasmallcruise Kasa Afrikana Afrikana Kasa The island’s onlyhotel, Cadjoco Campement Chez Dora satellite phone 00871-761-273221; perpersonincl3 (pension)offers goodvalue,withde- as

(r US$10) African Queen African , offers attractive, well-maintained

) The island’scushiestoption (r US$24) Very basicrooms,butideally ( %

(r US$14) 821144; [email protected]; r 821144; [email protected]; Chez Doraoffers wasexpected tore- Orango Parque Hotel ThisFrench-run THE NORTHWEST ••Quinhámel THENORTHWEST

to theBijagós. ( tional looms.Just outsidetown, themenandboysat work onthetradi- see no formaltours, butit’swellworthastopto ing traditionalweaving techniques. There are The townhasacollective topreserv- devoted region, traditionalhomeof the Papel people. of asthecapital theBiombo hámel serves Located about30kmwestof Quin- Bissau, QUINHÁMEL THE NORTHWEST to theBijagós. cabins andgoodFranco-African cuisine. night withfullboardUS$82) idyllic IlhaJoãoVieira, three speciesof endangered turtles.On sea ters thattogether formakey nestingarea for consists of fourislandsandsurroundingwa- João Vieira–PoilãoNationalMarine Park At thefar,southwestendof thearchipelago, PARKMARINE JOÃO VIEIRA–POILÃONATIONAL species. panthers,tees, gazelles and some200 bird of wildlife, including hippos,monkeys, mana- This national parkishome toadiverse array RIO CACHEU PARQUE NATURAL DOS TARRAFES DO or transfers to theBijagósislands. bungalows andrents boatsforfishingtrips % See See left forinformationaboutboattravel See See left forinformationabout boattravel to actual construction. construction. to actual sible forhomebuilding,frombrick-making ers –onlyfairsincetheyare entirely respon- villages, andthey’re alsothesolehomeown- aschiefsWomen often serve ofindividual and thequeenmanaging women’saffairs. managingregents men’saffairs –theking married noreven related) asco- whoserve andqueen(they’re neither ruled byaking from thatofmainlandGuinea. Islandersare a largely matriarchalculture quite distinct jagós have, over the centuries,developed The peoplesoftheArquipélagodos Bi- QUEENS OFTHEBIJAGÓS 626277; s/dUS$61/72; offers simplebutspotless as Chez Claude ) offers attractive Hotel Marazul Hotel

(per personper 377

GUINEA-BISSAU GUINEA-BISSAU GUINEA-BISSAU country’s second city, Bafatá retains city, Bafatá asmall country’s second The birthplaceof andthe AmilcarCabral BAFATÁ THE NORTHEAST Domingos. conditions aroundSão ahead forsecurity the 50kmdrive hours. can take several Check about repaving. Even withagoodvehicle, in terrible there condition,though wastalk of writingtheroadfromSãoDomingoswas Skiring.Atthetime across theborderinCap just beacheswide sand asbeautifulthose Varela isthefavourite getaway of locals,with VARELA to Varela. Check conditionsbefore headinghere oron theborderandmakescloses travel unsafe. (US$5.50,twotothreeBissau hours). square. There are plentyof to/from bushtaxis hotels aroundthemain andseveral stalls post isoften there atnight), closed are food get stuckhere (notimpossibleastheborder on themainroute to/fromZiguinchor. Ifyou border São DomingossitsontheSenegalese DOMINGOS SÃO IBAP for both).Formore the information,contact surrounding swamps(beprepared tobargain and organise boattripsontheCacheu and preparewater forUS$6perperson. Staff meals rooms withshared bathroomwithrunning 378 the petrol station area.the petrol station (US$1.40) or Buba(US$1.60) departfrom road. of alongthemain Bissau–Gabú food stalls food.Therehearty Portuguese are alsoplenty de Encontro centre. ThePortuguese-run in anattractive buildingintheold colonial River. but interesting colonialcentre alongtheGêba 34; to/from SãoDomingos(twotothree hours). roomsand goodmeals(US$5). maintained a Minibuses to Bissau (US$3.50), Gabú toBissau Minibuses Capé Maimuna Hotel thatcross-borderBeware violenceregularly inthetownofThe parkoffice offers Cacheu Chez Helene There isusuallyatleastoneminibusdaily

office H OTES • Bft ••Bafatá THE NORTHEAST ) offers spotless rooms comfortable,

(

% (meals aroundUS$7)

207106; RuaSãoTomé) (r US$24) offers simplebutwell-

(r withfan/air-conUS$24/ serves simplebut serves Restaurante Ponto Restaurante in Bissau. in Bissau. The local women’s association has set up the The local women’s association hasset connected withthe proposed scheme offers acommunity-based conservation A small village 22km eastof Catió, Jemberem CANTANHEZ JEMBEREM &PARQUE NATURAL DE switch vehicles inBuba). youmayhave (though all day)fromBissau to hez. Youcanreach by minibus(US$6, Catió Jemberem andtheParque Natural deCantan- stop onthewayto –anecessary with Bissau that stillhasregular transportconnections isthemostremoteCatió area inthesouth CATIÓ the information, contact forbirdandaquaticlife. habitat tant Formore visitors atthetimeof writing,it’sanimpor- fatada Buba, you’llpass most mornings. (US$5,approximatelysau hours) eight leaves and rice(aroundUS$1).Aminibus fromBis- number of placestoget cheap bowlsof fish lovely of vistas theriver. Intown,there are a less, attractively fitted-out bungalowsand sada BelaVista Buba isasmalljunctiontown. BUBA THE SOUTH andminibuspark. ean francsatthebushtaxi Gabú. Youcaneasilychange CFA intoGuin- see Senegal, p381 fortransportoptionsfrom to sixhours). Ifyou’re headingforGuineaor regularly gotoBissau (US$5,fiveMinibuses &Away There Getting veranda. ter, ceilingsandawraparound includinghigh Djaraama Residencial spot inthenorthof town.Inthetowncentre, andasmallgardeninquiet friendly staff a stopover onyourwayto/fromGuinea. of accommodation, makingitaconvenient Lively ifunattractive, Gabúoffers arange GABÚ US$25) Rua SãoTomé) Hotel Visiom Hotel About 5kmbefore youreach thetownof ) offers cleanroomswithbathroom, ispriceybuthassomecolonialcharac- . Whilethere wasnoinfrastructure for in Bissau. inBissau.

(

( % % 6-647011; rUS$20; Parque NaturaldoLagoadeCa- 511484; rwithfan/air-conUS$16/30;

( % 511302; rwithoutbathroom IBAP office lonelyplanet.com Cantanhez Forest. Forest. Cantanhez a

) ( % has spot- 207106; Pou- Tomé) improves. Aclean,decentroomwithelectric- range’ the situation digs).Outsidethecapital, doubles andUS$70forratherdecrepit ‘mid- offers poorvalue(about US$20forprimitive isexpensiveAccommodation inBissau and ACCOMMODATION DIRECTORY GUINEA-BISSAU and elephants. the nearbysacred forest, hometo chimpanzees for They canalsoarrange aguide(essential) guesthouse. Banana small, inexpensive Raça lonelyplanet.com and Senegal. For more details, see therelevant Formore see details, and Senegal. in The Gambia, Guinea, Bissau In WestAfrica, youcanget for Guinea- visas Guinea-Bissau Embassies & Consulates EMBASSIES &CONSULATES the earlyafternoon. foranhouror twoin Saturday. Someclose to 6pmMonday to Fridayand8am1pm Saturday. Shops are generally openfrom9am isopen8am to6pmMonday in Bissau from MondaytoFriday, butthemainbranch arePost offices generally open morningsonly to Friday,or8am2pmMonday toFriday. open 8amtonoonand3pm6pm Monday andgovernmentBanks offices are generally HOURS BUSINESS the coast. watching isextraordinary,especially along roads are generally quiet,safe andflat.Bird- fishing intheworld.Cyclingisgood,as sea the Bijagósalsooffer someof thebestdeep- great beaches, sandy andthewaters around The ArquipélagodosBijagósandVarela have ACTIVITIES for roomandfullboard. generally costUS$50toUS$100perperson camps are scattered aroundthecountry,and US$10 to$15.Specialisthuntingandfishing water andafoampadfortwopeoplecosts US$35 withair-conditioning, whilebucket ity andrunningwater costUS$25,or might park, contact the park, contact Jemberem. Formore information about the and Catió pick-up) inthemorningbetween There’s usuallyadaily in Bissau. in Bissau. GUINEA-BISSAU DIRECTORY ••Accommodation GUINEA-BISSAU DIRECTORY IBAP office kandonga

( % 207106; RuaSão

Mauritania (truckor 8.30am-1pm Fri) Eastofthe central stadium. 8.30am-1pm Fri) MD 20855) Brussels 1000) west of Mercado deBandim. west ofMercado 3pm Sat-Thu, Located 1kmnorth- 8.30am-12.30pmFri) The consulforthe UKandtheNetherlandsis Senegal Mauritania Guinea Gambia France applications. OpeninghoursBissau. listed are forvisa The followingembassiesare alllocated in inGuinea-Bissau Embassies &Consulates USA Portugal France Belgium more orless limited tothefollowing: has very few are embassiesorconsulates. These country chapter. Outside Africa,Guinea-Bissau is the country’s biggest party, with music, yearly in Februaryin Bissau or earlyMarch, Bissau’s FESTIVALS & EVENTS Côte d’Ivoire andTogo. forBenin, visas the French embassyforinformation about RuaEduardoMondlane,Bissau) mercardo Mavegro, Jan vanMaanen of thecentralstadium. h Brazil) Paris)

    PRACTICALITIES 8am-5pm) ( Guinea-Bissauusesthemetricsystem. supplyis220Vandplugsare Electricity NewspaperscomeandgoquicklyinBis- stations The nationalradioandTV % of theEuropean variety. two-round-pin offer youthelatest options. or restaurants, avendor willquickly sau. Ifyousitatoneofthecity’scafés the BBC. hourly newsbulletinsinEnglishfrom whichcombinesmusicwith (100.0MHz), ing fortravellers Mavegro isRadio FM Mostinterest-broadcast inPortuguese. ( ( ( ( % % ( % ( ( 301-947 3958;15929Yukon Lane,Rockville, % % % % Carnival ( 201312; cnrAve de14Novembro & Ave do 01 45261851;94rueSaintLazare, 75009 201231; Rua12; % 203928; Ave de14Novembro; 212944; offPraçadosHeróisNacionais; 02 6470809;70Ave Franklin-Roosevelt, 213 030440;RuaAlcolena,17,Lisbon1400)

203696; RuaEduardoMondlane)South ( % ( p375 ), which takes place 201224, 211529;fax201265; Super- h 8.30am-3pm Sat-Thu, h . Contact . Contact 8.30am-

379 GUINEA-BISSAU GUINEA-BISSAU GUINEA-BISSAU 381 Kandon- (seven-seaters). . connect Bissau with the Bijagós, sept-places sept-places (shared pick-up trucks) ply rural routes. pick-up trucks) ply rural routes. (shared You can also cross the border between You can also cross the border between Check safety conditions carefully. A bush taxi conditions carefully. Check safety between Bissau costs US$9.50 and Ziguinchor per person. bush taxi. by (slow-going) and Tanaf Farim transport from to get You may also be able (via Vélingara), though Gabú to Tambacounda poor and journeys long. road conditions are GETTING AROUND Air was no domestic writing there time of At the air service. Bicycle flat and with little trafficLargely or crime way to get problems, biking is a great no formal are around Guinea-Bissau. There but asking around will usually rentals, bike quickly. yield results Boat Canoas boats to Bubaque and scheduled regularly Bolama and occasional boats to other islands. travel information about for more p376 See to the Bijagós. Car & Motorcycle roads between Bissau and Bafatá, Gabú Main all in decent condition. are and Ziguinchor seriously de- However, all other roads are impassable without 4WD – graded and often especially during the rainy season. Minibus & Bush Taxi The main roads between Bissau and the towns all Bafatá, Gabú and São Domingos are of writing in good con- and at the time of paved dition. Public transport consists mainly of minibuses blue and (almost always painted 504 bush taxis, often yellow) and Peugeot called gas always the best 8am) are Mornings (before from Bissau to transport. Fares time to get US$5.50 by Peu- Gabú (around 200km) are 504, US$4 by minibus and US$3 geot kandonga 205211; www.air 206087; www.tacv % % (V7; (VR; 201359; www.flytap.com; % TRANSPORT •• Getting IN GUINEA & Away There BISSAU 206422; www.airluxor.com; Ave 24 de Ave 206422; www.airluxor.com; (TP; (TP; % (LK; DEPARTURE TAX TAX DEPARTURE is a US$20 airport departureThere tax for flights, which is usually international included in your ticket. TAP Air Portugal and Air Luxor are the Air Portugal and Luxor are TAP The following airlines service Guinea- lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT IN GUINEA- BISSAU GETTING THERE & AWAY Air airport is only international Guinea-Bissau’s Bissau. on the outskirts of flights from Europe only airlines with direct to Bissau. Between them, Air Sénégal and seven Airlines operate Cabo Verde TACV flights per week between Bissau and Dakar. elseTo fly between Bissau in and anywhere Africa, connect in Dakar (Senegal). Bissau: Air Luxor Air Sénégal International -senegal-international.com; Rua Osualdo Vieira) Hub: Dakar. Cabo Airlines TACV Verde Amilcar Cabral) Hub: Praia. .com; Ave Air Portugal TAP Land GUINEA border daily from Bush taxis usually go to the all Gabú and Koundara (US$5). It can take A less- this 100km stretch. day to cover open only in the dry season, route, travelled Guinea-Bissau and western links southeastern Guinea via Quebo and Boké. SENEGAL between Senegal travel and Most overland Guinea-Bissau passes through and Ziguinchor São Domingos, the Guinean border town of closes due to gov- though the border regularly ernment clashes with Cassamance separatists. Praça dos Heróis Nacionais) Hub: Lisbon. Setembro) Hub: Lisbon. in

signs Serviço de Es- , behind the lonelyplanet.com ‘posto publico’ ‘posto (Ave 14 de Novembro, Bissau) (Ave Three-month single-entry visas cost US$30 and One-month multiple-entry visas cost US$10 plus Two-month multiple-entry visas cost US$40 plus It is easy to buy a mobile phone with codes in Guinea- area no telephone are There Bissau. require one photo; they’re ready the same day if you go ready one photo; they’re require early. two photos and take a day or two to issue. issued in two days. four photos and are Gambia. If you decide to risk it, airmail letters If you decide to risk it, airmail letters Gambia. cost US$0.90. TELEPHONE For local calls, look for and other shops in corner grocery stores around the country. They allow you to make long- local calls, and sometimes international distance can be punish- calls, though the latter – US$5 to US$10 per minute, ingly expensive is also a depending on the country. There ) p375 ( at the main post office call centre avail- also readily plan. SIM cards are prepaid had the writing Areeba At the time of able. best rates. six dig- have numbers Bissau. All fixed-line seven have phone numbers its while mobile digits. VISAS Economic except nationals of All visitors, West Africa States (Ecowas) Community of visas. normally valid These are countries, need issued for around US$60 at for 45 days and are routinely issued generally They are embassies. so at Bissau’s airport, but not at land borders, one before hassles, get plan ahead. To avoid you arrive. Visa Extensions easy to obtain at Extensions are trangeiros main immigration building across from the de Bandim. For virtually all nation- Mercado alities, 45-day visa cost around extensions the same day if you go ready US$8 and are early. Visas for Onward Travel Visas coun- for the following neighbouring tries can be obtained at their embassies in Bissau. that Gambian and However, note Senegalese be obtained visas can generally without delay at land border crossings as well as at airports. Gambia Guinea Senegal 20 24 September 1 January 25 December 3 August 8 March 1 May March/April GUINEA-BISSAU DIRECTORYGUINEA-BISSAU •• Health Tipping is optional. Tipping The unit of currency is the West African currency The unit of

380 masks, dancing and parades. Small festivals held in other towns around the country are the same the autumn at about time, or after locally check harvest (around November); for dates. HEALTH a yellow fever– of with proof A certificate all travellers. of vaccination is required HOLIDAYS the following public Guinea-Bissau celebrates holidays: Day New Year’s Anniversary of the Death Amilcar Cabral Women’s Day Easter Labour Day Pidjiguiti Day Independence Day Christmas Day as Eid al-Fitr (at the end of such Islamic feasts For also celebrated. are Ramadan) and Tabaski ). p1106 see ( dates, the Africa Directory INTERNET ACCESS access only in Bissau. is internet Inter- There US$2 to US$3 per hour for net cafés charge slow, dial-up connections. LANGUAGE thoughPortuguese the language, is the official medi- common tongue is Crioulo – a mix of eval Portuguese and local words. Most ethnic groups also preserve their own language. MONEY no ATMs were writing there At the time of not cards are in Guinea-Bissau, and credit the easiest cur- Euros are anywhere. accepted dif- more are US dollars to exchange. rency ficult, especially outside Bissau. Guinea- franc. The principal bank of CFA Bissau is the Banco da Africa Ocidental (BAO). money in Bissau – the only For exchanging – see cheques travellers place you can exchange p375 . POST The postal service but slow – you’re is reliable off mailing from Senegal better probably or January GUINEA-BISSAU GUINEA-BISSAU 382 © LonelyPlanetPublications the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’ the above -‘Do theright the termsandconditions onoursitefor alongerwayof saying youknow, orresell it.See everyone site,massemailit to only. Inother words,please don’t uploadthischapter toapeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethink it’sfairtoask you touseitforpersonal, non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapter isnotdigitally Tomake

www.lonelyplanet.com