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Welcome to the Pacific Staff Denisse Rauda Editor KOREA Ayako Kamio Layout Designer

Writers and Photographers When in Korea 6 This is your guide! ChiHon Kim Shoji Kudaka Language guidelines 8 Jun Sakahira Takahiro Takiguchi The wonders of won 10 f you’re reading this, then you’ve likely already arrived in Korea. On Korean chopsticks 12 behalf of the Stars and Stripes family, we’d like to welcome you as you Lunar New Year and Spam 13

Culture begin your stay in the Asia-Pacific region. No handshakes or hugs here Max D. Lederer Jr. Giving gifts and tipping 16 I Publisher though – just some useful information you’re going to want to know. Our aim with the Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20 magazine is to get you Lt. Col. Richard E. McClintic Doing your DoDEA homework 18 acquainted as you begin your new overseas journey. Need a set of wheels Commander On-base colleges 20 and insurance? Flip a few more pages and find some of the top dealerships and insurance agents in your area. Looking to take a day trip? We’ll tell you Joshua M. Lashbrook where to go! Chief of Staff

Education Please use this as a guide to help you get settled in your new country. It’s Michael Davidson a big change and hopefully this can provide some help as you learn the lay Revenue Director of the land. Mastering mass transit in Korea 21 Proceed knowing Stars and Stripes has you covered beyond the valuable Marie Woods Space-A travel 26 information in this magazine. Every other week pick up a new edition of Publishing and Media Design Director Stripes Korea inside the blue boxes you’ll see around base. This community Chris Carlson newspaper will give you the run down on off-base events, interesting must- Publishing and Media Design Manager

Transportation see sights and even that new lunch spot you were curious about but haven’t tried. So, make sure to grab a copy and check us out the next time you pass Kentaro Shimura Production Manager a blue box. Buying & registering a POV 30 Local twist to road rules 31 Forgot to pick up this week’s copy? Fear not, StripesKorea.com is stocked Rie Miyoshi Camp coordinates 32 with thousands of travel, food and culture stories for all your adventure- Engagement Manager planning needs. Area Managers At Stars and Stripes, our community newspapers and community websites

Private vehicles Private Monte Dauphin, Japan/Guam are actually your community newspapers and community websites. Keeping Scott Wheeler, Okinawa with that theme, this year we sought out community contributions for this Rick Villanueva, Korea Law and order on the ROK 34 edition’s front cover. We were pleased to receive many photo submissions Understanding SOFA 34 from the people in your new community. It was a tough decision, but Chevon Multimedia Consultants Max Genao Doug Johnson Dealing with the law 36 Workman’s photo was chosen to grace the cover of the magazine you’re Jason Lee Hans Simpson Legal holding now. And photos submitted by others appear inside. Chae Pang Yi Gianni Youn We are always interested and would love to hear from you on what you Robert Zuckerman want to read about. Have a story idea? Visit one of our websites and let us Sales Support know. Better yet, do you have a great story to tell? Maybe it’s about a fun trip Off-base living 37 Kazumi Hasegawa Hiromi Isa you took or a group of students working on cool project. Submit your story Dos and don’ts with pets 38 Ichiro Katayanagi Yoko Noro Garbage disposal rules 38 and photos and you might just find yourself published in the paper! Yoichi Okazaki Yusuke Sato Medical & TRICARE overseas While you check out our websites, don’t forget to like us on Facebook Chae Yon Son Saori Tamanaha Living 39 @StripesPacific. Give us a thumbs up to stay up-to-date on all the latest news Getting connected with a cell phone 40 Graphic Designers relating to the U.S. military community stationed in the Pacific. And if free Yukiyo Oda Kenichi Ogasawara stuff is your jam, make sure to keep an eye out for our photo contests and Yuko Okazaki Kayoko Shimoda Exploring Korea’s true flavor42 giveaway promotions. Yosuke Tsuji Thanks for reading and as they say here in Korea: 환영합니다!

Food Denisse Rauda Stripes Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20 is an Publishing and Media Design Editor exclusive Stars and Stripes community publication for members of the U.S. military community Stars and Stripes serving overseas. The content herein is unofficial Spring 2019 and is not to be considered as the official views The USO connects you 44 of, or endorsed by, Stars and Stripes, the U.S. AFN is here to serve 46 government, or the Department of Defense. The advertising in this publication does not constitute Websites worth bookmarking 46 To make the most of your time in Korea, you really have to start off Helpful travel tips 48 endorsement by Stars and Stripes of the products Leisure with this mindset: just be thankful. Many people who live in the states or services advertised. All rights reserved. Cover Exploring Korea 49 will never get an opportunity like this, a chance to be immersed in and contents may not be reproduced in whole or another culture! And then I would say, even if you’re nervous, even if in part without prior written permission. your scared, get out there and explore! “ ” Email: [email protected] with questions or comments. To subscribe to Stars and Stripes, – Chevon Workman email: [email protected]. Mailing Spouse on Camp Humphreys address: Unit 45002, APO AP 96338-5002 4 Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20

Contents provided by THE NEW SANNO When in Korea A cultural lay of the land

hough affected by other window shopping, “hand phone” Asian cultures, Korean (hendeu pon) for cell phone and T culture’s roots lie deep “one shot,” a drinking term for within the creative Korean downing your drink in one quaff. psyche; it has tended to spread As with modern-day fashion, rather than be encroached upon. contemporary Korean pop mu- Seoul

Culture The delicate styling and fine sic is also heavily influenced by Photo submitted by Steve Tucker craftsmanship of celadon pot- the U.S. It has contributed to tery illustrates the refinement the global rise of “K-pop” since the bow depends on the relative of the culture, even from as far the 1990s, which in turn has in- seniority of the two people. back as the Three Kingdoms fluenced the West with success- When passing a gift or Period from A.D. 57 to 668. ful artists like Psy of “Gangnam any other object to some- Korea has also spawned some Style” fame. one, use both hands and Education great inventors. Its first printing bow. The right hand is Did You systems predate Gutenberg’s, Korean names used to pass the object, the famous “Turtle Ship” was Koreans place the family while the left is used in the first ever iron-clad battle- name first and the given person- support. If the person re- Know? ship, and the Korean alphabet, al name second. Family names ceiving the gift is young- In South Korea, when you turn devised by a group of scholars are traditional clan names and er or lower in status, 19, you can legally smoke, drink Transportation in the 15th century, was so effec- each has a village from which it passing with one hand is and vote. Like in the States, you tive that it remains largely un- comes. Thus, there is a differ- acceptable. will be asked to show ID before changed today. ence between a Kim who comes Koreans believe that purchasing alcohol. Korean cultural assets to from Kyong-ju and a Kim who is direct eye contact during UNESCO’s World Heritage from Kimhae. conversation shows bold- List include Chongmyo Shrine, The five most common names ness, and out of politeness they

Private vehicles Private where memorial services to the are Kim, Pa(r)k, Lee, Choi concentrate on the conversation, dining. Guests sit on cushions kings of the ancient Chosun (Choe) and Oh. Because of the usually avoiding eye contact. around a low table. Many dif- Dynasty are held; the Great inconsistencies of translating You will see young men walk- ferent foods are served, each cut Changgyong Panjion in Haeinsa names from Hangul to Roman ing in the street with their arms into bite-sized pieces. Each per- Temple, where Buddhist scrip- characters, spellings of these around each other’s shoulders son has their own bowl of rice,

Legal ture is engraved on 80,000 names vary. For instance, Lee is and women walking hand in but helps themselves to other wooden panels; and Pulguksa also spelled in English as Yi and hand. This means nothing more foods directly from the serving Temple and Sokkuram Grotto in Rhee. than simple intimacy. Touching dishes. Koreans traditionally use Kyongju, which was built more If at all possible, Koreans close friends while talking to chopsticks (Read more on chop- than 1,000 years ago. avoid calling a person directly them is perfectly acceptable in sticks on Page 12) and a large- Modern Korea, however, is not by their name. Instead they use Korea. Koreans will touch chil- bowled spoon, although today

Living without its Western influences, their title, position, trade, pro- dren to show their warm affec- forks are also used. particularly from the United fession, scholastic rank or some tion for them. This is a compli- The hostess may put your gift States. For example, pizza is one honorific form such as “teacher.” ment to let the child know how aside without opening it in order of the nation’s favorite foreign Parents often are addressed cute he or she is. Bumping into to save you the embarrassment if foods (albeit with a Korean twist as the equivalent of “Jimmy’s other people while passing is your gift is small. They’ll open it on toppings like corn, sweet po- mommy” or “Susie’s daddy,” mostly understood unless you if you politely ask. Food tato, mayonnaise and bulgogi). rather than “Mrs. Kim.” shove him or her offensively. At a restaurant, “going Dutch” Western fast food chains are also If you attend a wedding or is not customary – Koreans just popular. As in the U.S., coffee- Etiquette and dining funeral, it’s customary to take take turns paying, although it is houses have multiplied in recent Although many of the Koreans a white envelope containing a becoming more common among years resulting in the term “cof- with whom you come into sum of money. Handing cash to young people to split the check. fice” to describe the use of cafés contact will be familiar with someone is considered rude, ex- In most hotels, a service charge

Leisure as ad hoc office spaces. American habits and manner- cept when paying a shopkeeper is included in the bill. Other recent English- isms, the traditional values are for merchandise. Be conscious of Korean cus- language influences in Korean still strong. Dinner in a traditional Korean toms and etiquette, but don’t – or “Konglish” – include: “Eye Koreans shake hands and bow home or restaurant is quite dif- become obsessed with adopting shopping” (ai syopping) for at the same time. The depth of ferent from American-style Korean ways.

6 Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20

ㅗ

VOWELS Useful guidelines ㅣ ㅔ ㅚ ㅐ ㅏ ㅗ ㅜ ㅂ for speaking Korean i e oe ae a o u ㅓ ㅡ ㅢ ㅖ ㅒ ㅑ ㅛ ㄹ

eo eu ui ye yae ya yo he Korean written language, Hangul, is very easy for new- ㅠ ㅕ ㅟ ㅞ ㅙ ㅘ ㅝ comers to learn. Knowing how to sound out words can help ㅏ T with reading street signs, subway station names and names yu yeo wi we wae wa wo of businesses. Many English and other foreign words are written in Hangul in Korea. You’ll be amazed at how many signs you can read CONSONANTS and recognize English words written in Hangul. ㅖ ㅂ ㄷ ㅈ ㄱ ㅃ ㄸ ㅉ Culture like the word “way.” The letter Romanized Korean b,p d,t j g,k pp tt jj pronunciation guide “a” is pronounced as a short “a” ㅆ Consonants in Korean sound like “ah.” The letter “o” is pro- ㄲ ㅍ ㅌ ㅊ ㅋ ㅅ ㅎ similar to English consonants. nounced long like “boat.” The kk p t ch k s h Korean Generally, hard consonants in letter “u” is pronounced like in Character Korean like “k” and “p” are not as “tube.” ㅆ ㅁ ㄴ ㅇ ㄹ Education hard as in English unless a dou- The vowel combination “eo” Romanized ss m n ng r,l ble consonant like “kk” or “pp” is is pronounced like “aw” in “saw.” used. There are exceptions. The vowel combination “eu” is Vowels: The Romanized pronounced like the vowel sound “w” sound added to the begin- others when referring to certain Korean letter “i” is pronounced in “good.” The vowel combi- ning of the sound. English words. For example, the as a long “e” like “seen.” The let- nation “ui” is pronounced like Because the Roman or English letters “f” and “z” are replaced

Transportation ters “e” and “ae” are pronounced “whee.” All vowel combinations alphabet has letters that its with the letters “p” and “z,” re- with a short “e” sound like “beg.” that start with the letter “y” and Korean counterpart doesn’t, spectively such as in the words The letters “oe” together sound “w” are pronounced with a “y” or some letters are substituted for “kopi” (coffee) and “pija” (pizza).

BASIC

Private vehicles Private DAYS OF THE WEEK These ------i-deul-eun High ------Nop-eun Monday------Wol-yo-il That ------Jeo-geots-eun Low ------Naj-eun KOREAN Tuesday------Hwa-yo-il Our ------U-riui Numerous ------Man-eun Wednesday------Su-yo-il White ------Huinsaek VOCABULARY Thursday ------Mok-yo-il INTERROGATIVE Black ------Geomjeong

Legal Friday ------Geum-yo-il Who------Nu-ga Red ------Ppalgang Saturday ------To-yo-il What ------Mu-uts-eul Blue ------Parang GENERAL Sunday ------Il-yo-il When ------Un-je Green ------Chorok VOCABULARY * For months and dates see Why ------Wae Yellow ------Norang Water------Mul “Korean by Numbers” on page 9. Where ------Eo-di-se-o Outdoors------Bakk How ------Eo-tteo-ke VERBS Half ------Ban RELATIVE DATE Go ------Ga-da Night ------Bam Living Today------O-neul CONJUNCTIONS Stop ------Seo-da Fire ------Bul Yesterday------Eo-je And ------Geu-ri-go Walk ------Geol-ou-ga-da Mountain ------San Tomorrow------Nae-il So ------Geu-rae-seo Run ------Da-li-da Hand ------Son This month------I-dal Or/Also ------Tto-neun Drive ------Un-jeon-ha-da Clothes ------Ot Next month------Da-eum-dal But ------Geu-reo-na Meet ------Man-na-da Sleep ------Jam Last month------Ji-nan-dal Sit ------An-dda House ------Jip

Food ADJECTIVES Stand ------I-reo-seo-da Car ------Cha PRONOUNS Light ------Ga-byeo-un Like ------Jo-a-ha-da Book ------Chaek I ------Na-neun Heavy ------Mu-geo-un Hate ------Shi-reo-ha-da Gun ------Chong My ------Na-ui Dirty ------Deor-eo-eun Depart ------Chul-bal-ha-da Knife ------Kal Me ------Na-reul Strong ------Gang-han Arrive ------Do-chak-ha-da Tour ------Gwan-gwang He/She ------Geu Weak ------Yahk-han Near ------Ga-kkap-da Hospital ------Byeong-won His ------Geu-ui Different ------Da-reun Enter ------Deu-reo-ga-da Newspaper------Shin-mun

Leisure Him ------Geu-reul Similar ------Dal-meun Go out ------Na-ga-da Bank ------Eun-haeng Her ------Geu-nyeo-ui Hot ------TTeu-geo-eun Turn on ------Kyeo-da Student ------Hak-saeng This ------i-geots-eun Cold ------Chu-eun Turn off ------Kkeu-da Cash ------Hyun-geum

8 Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20 SOME USEFUL Goodbye (to someone who is staying) An-nyeong-hee-kye-se-yo (casual) KOREAN An-nyeong-hee-kye-ship-shi-yo (polite) Goodbye (to someone who is leaving) PHRASES An-nyeong-hee-ga-se-yo (casual) An-nyeong-hee-ga-ship-shi-yo (polite) Hi/Hello An-Nyeong-ha-se-yo/ How are you? (how have you been?) An-nyeong-ha-shim-ni-kka Chal-ji-nae-sheo-sseo-yo? or Eo-toh-kye-ji-nae-sheo-sseo-yo? • The first of these is casual while the second is more formal (Are things going well?) Culture and polite. My name is XXX: It is nice to meet you. Che Irum-un XXX ip-ni-da. Man-na-seo-ban-gop-sub-ni-da. What is your name? It is nice to meet you. / It is a pleasure. Ireumi mwoyeoyo? (casual) Education Ban-gop-sub-ni-da. Sseonghami eo-tteo-ke doe-sim-ni-kka? (polite)

I’m meeting you for the first time (How do you do?). I am XX years old. Cheo-eum-beob-gesseub-ni-da. Jeo-neun XX saal ip-ni-da. Transportation Private vehicles

Korean by numbers Pure-Korean numbers). English Pure-Korean Hangul Sino-Korean Hangul

There are two separate but equally im- Time (shi gan): Use Pure-Korean for the 1 Hana 하나 il 일 portant groups of Korean numbers. Pure- hour (“shi”) and Sino-Korean for the min- Legal 2 Tul 둘 ee 이 Korean numbers, generally used to denote utes (“bun”). 3:30 is “se-shi – sam-ship 3 Set 셋 sam 삼 cardinal numbers (1, 2, 3), and Sino-Korean bun,” a.m. and p.m. are “oh-jeon” and “oh- 4 Net sa numbers, generally used to denote ordinal hu,” respectively. 넷 사 numbers (1st, 2nd, 3rd). The Sino-Korean Date: Use Pure-Korean for counting the 5 Tasot 다섯 oh 오 numbers can also be written using Hanja months, but Sino-Korean for the month and 6 Yosot 여섯 yuk 육 Living (Chinese characters). As with English, day (“il”). “Ee wol, ee-ship il” is Feb. 20. 7 Ilgop 일곱 ch’il 칠 double-digit numbers consist of one of Age: Informally or when referring 8 Yodol(p) 여덟 p’al 팔 Oh to yourself, your children, or some- the first nine numbers and a modify- 9 Ahop 아홉 gu 구 ing prefix such as “yol”-hana (11), one much younger than yourself, use 10 Yol 열 ship 십 “sumu”-tul (22), or “soren”-set Pure-Korean with the suffix “sal.” 20 Sumul ee-ship (33). Similar rules apply Six years old is “Yosot sal.” In a 스물 이십

30 Sorun sam-ship Food for larger numbers. Sa formal situation or when refer- 서른 삼십 ring to someone older, use Sino- 40 Mahun 마흔 sa-ship 사십 Number use Korean with the suffix “se.” Sixty 50 Shween 쉰 oh-ship 오십 Exceptions: In descriptive use years of age is “yuk-ship se.” 60 Yessun 예순 yuk-ship 육십 of the Pure-Korean numbers 1, 2, Counters: Pure-Korean numbers 70 Irhun 일흔 ch’il-ship 칠십

usually require “counters,” words used Leisure 3, 4 and 20, the last letter is dropped 80 Yeodun 여든 p’al-ship 팔십 from the pronunciation. “Hana” becomes to associate numbers with subjects, like 90 Ahun 아흔 gu-ship 구십 “han,” “tul” is “tu,” “set” is “se,” “net” is “ne” two “sheets” (“jang”) of paper or one “bag” 100 Baek baek and “sumul” is “sumu.” (“bongji”) of groceries. A few worth remem- 백 백 1,000 Ch’eon Money: Always use Sino-Korean num- bering right away are: “Gae,” things (good 천 bers. $30 is “sam-ship bul” (“bul” or “dolla” for anything); “myeong,” people (informal); 10,000 Man 만 means dollar) and a $20 bill is “ee-ship bul” “sa ram,” person (casual); and “bun,” people 100,000 Ship-man 십만 (but when counting how many $20 bills, use (polite). 1,000,000 Baek-man 백만

Be sure to like us on Facebook! Just search for @StripesPacific 9 The wonders of won

Culture A look at Korea’s colorful currency

orean currency can be largely divided into four coins and 10,000 won four bills, with denominations of 10, 50, 100, 500 and 1,000, The last Korean bill 5,000, 10,000, 50,000 won, respectively. While traveling, to examine is the green Education K it’s possible all you noticed is how quickly money seems to fly from 10,000 won ($10) bill. your hands. However, if you take a closer look at the characters and The figure on this bill is designs on the bills, you will be greatly surprised! There are many Joseon Dynasty’s fourth tiny details about the important historical figures they present and king, King Sejong (1418-1450). He is known as being a monarch their related tourist sites. who, when it came to politics, always considered the needs of the people first. Thanks to this love of the people and his many achieve-

Transportation 1,000 won ments, the people began to attach the title “the great” to the end of Korea’s most common bill is his name. the 1,000 won (about $1) in a pretty blue color. The front of Coins the bill features flowers, a ha- Like Korean bills, Korean coins also have various im- nok building, and a portrait of ages that represent the nation and its history. The small-

Private vehicles Private a man, with the back sporting a landscape painting of a river and est coin, worth 10 won, displays an image of national trea- wooded mountains. sure Dabotap Pagoda. This stone pagoda is one of the nation’s most fantastic structures and is located at UNESCO- 5,000 and 50,000 won designated Bulguksa Temple in the city of The 5,000 won ($5) and Gyeongju. The 50 won coin has a single

Legal 50,000 won ($50) bills stalk of rice ready for harvest, the 100 won have a secret that cannot be coin features Admiral Yi Sun-shin (1545- found on any other forms 1598) who almost single-handedly defeated the invad- of currency throughout the ing Japanese force in the Imjin War, and the largest coin world! The special point of with a value of 500 won has a flying crane, which was the symbol of these bills is in the relation- scholars. In addition to these four coins, there are two other coins no

Living ship between the two figures longer in circulation. depicted; they are the only two figures to be related as – Korea Tourism Organization mother and son! Shin Saimdang (1504-1551), featured on the 50,000 won bill, is also the only female on Korean currency, and is perhaps COPYRIGHTS ©KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED best well-known as being a good wife and wise mother. www.visitkorea.or.kr

Food

king Ko •How much does this cost?: Eolma ipnikka? (polite) a re Eolma ingayo? (casual) e a p n S •Where is the ATM?: ATM gigega eodie isseupnikka? Leisure •Do you accept credit card?: Sinyong-cad ba-deu-sipnikka? Money Talk •Cash-only: Hyeongeum-man bat-seup-nida.

10 Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20

Planning a visit to Japan?

You’ll notice the differences of Japanese chopsticks both in aesthetic and in use.

• Hashi is the Japanese word for chopsticks.

• Japanese chopsticks are typically made of wood or bamboo. Culture

Korean chopsticks bring • Because fish is an integral part of the Japa- nese diet, chopsticks there are sharp, mak- the metal, not the poison ing them perfect for deboning fish.

• For table setting, the chopsticks

Education ince their invention in in their food. It was thought sit horizontally near the diner. ancient China more than the metal would change color if 3,000 years ago, chop- the food was, in fact, poisoned. • On the scale of length, Japan’s S are slightly shorter than Korea sticks have been widely used in Later, brass and iron chopsticks Asian countries. In South Korea, would gain popularity amongst and China’s chopsticks. How- “jeotgarak” means chopsticks. non-royals. ever, cooking chopsticks are long

Transportation Being an important tool for Diners will also find spoons enough to ensure that the cook will dining, Koreans learn to use with long handles accompany not burn themselves while stirring “jeotgarak” as infants. Koreans the chopstick set. In Korea, the meal. consider the handling of chop- when it comes to rice and soup sticks a necessity for good table dishes, the spoon reigns king; Similarities to Korea manners, and for children and chopsticks are used for the sides. • Chopstick etiquette is something both cul- Private vehicles Private adults alike, table manners are “Suejo” is the term for the chop- very important. This even ex- stick and spoon set. Suejo is a tures take very seriously and teach their chil- tends to the manner in which play on the Korean word “sutga- dren early on. the chopsticks are presented in rak” for spoon and “jeotgarak” the table setting: in Korea they for chopsticks. But be careful! • Sticking your chopsticks into a bowl of rice

Legal are placed vertically on the table. Using both simultaneously is is also a no-no in Japan. Here it is also a fu- Growing up, I remember my considered unsightly and rude. neral rite. father teaching me how to pick In Korea, we love to share up black beans he had scattered our food, so our chopsticks are • The same goes for sticking food with your on the table with only chop- slightly longer, making it easier chopsticks or passing food from chopstick to sticks. I also remember getting to share dishes and reach across chopstick.

Living scolded for sticking chopsticks the table for that last piece of straight into rice. Same as in juicy bulgogi. • Don’t suck on chopsticks. Japan, this is a no-no as it re- Since metal tends to be a lit- sembles a funeral rite. tle slippery for picking food up, Whether you’ve mastered the the chopsticks in Korea come art of chopsticks back home flat, rectangular and rough Food before coming to Korea or not, at the ends for good gripping you’ve probably noticed that the purposes. chopsticks here are a little dif- Despite all the scolding and ferent than what you’re used to. the rigorous training I had to In Korea, chopsticks come endure, like many Westerners, in a variety of metals or stain- I still feel uncomfortable using

Leisure less steel. Though the reason stainless steel chopsticks. But, behind this is often debated, at least I won’t have to worry it is believed that Korean roy- about my food being poisoned. alty first introduced silver chopsticks as a way to detect poison - ChiHon Kim

12 Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20 2019 Official Korean Holidays

Jan New Years’ Day (Jan. 1) lives for their country. While memorial services are held nation- As in other countries, 1 the first day of the New wide, the largest ceremony takes Lunar New Year Year is celebrated. Many Koreans place at the National Cemetery in visit the coast or the mountains Seoul. and a can of Spam to watch the first sunrise of the Aug Liberation Day (August 15) year. 15 Feb Seollal (February 4-6) This day commemo- or many, the word “Spam” despite having a population less Lunar New Year’s Day rates Japan’s acceptance of the may conjure up images than a sixth of the size of the U.S. 4-6 (Seollal) is one of the Allies’ terms of surrender in 1945 of junk e-mail or a cheap most important traditional holi- and the following liberation of Ko- F rea. substitute for fresh meat. But the Why Spam is popular here days of the year; the holiday is canned pink meat has a differ- The popularity of Spam in much more significant than Janu- Sep Chuseok (September 12- ent position in some parts of the Korea is a leftover from the ary 1st. Most businesses are 12-14 14) world, especially in Korea. Korean War, when it came over closed, and people take several Chuseok is one of the Seollal, celebrated starting with U.S. soldiers in the 1950s. By days off from work to visit their year’s most important tradition- Feb. 4, is one of Korea’s biggest the end of the war, South Korea hometown to be with their family. al holidays. It is celebrated on holidays, and Feb. 5 is the start of had plunged into crushing pov- On the day of Seollal, everyone the 15th day of the eighth lunar the lunar year in 2019. Growing erty. Meat was scarce, and for gets up early, puts on their best month. Chuseok is often referred up in Daegu, seollal meant visits many, Spam smuggled from U.S. clothes, and bows to their elders to as Korean Thanksgiving Day. to my grandparents’ home and Army bases was the only source. as a reaffirmation of family ties. It’s a celebration of another lots of rice cake stew. During the Since Koreans could barely afford Feasts are held with specially successful harvest year. Fam- holiday, which is observed over to eat meat during the country’s prepared food such as tteokguk ily members come from all over the course of three days, Koreans two major holidays, Spam quickly (rice cake soup) and mandu guk the country for memorial rituals, travel back to their hometowns to became a special treat, becoming (dumpling soup). Korean families called charye, at the graves of pay respects to their ancestors, a symbol of wealth. enjoy spending time together by their ancestors. wear traditional hanbok and ex- After all these years, Spam playing traditional games such as Oct National Foundation Day (October 3) change gifts with their loved ones. remains an integral part of the yutnori (traditional Korean board 3 You’ll know it’s time for the Korean food culture and is an games), flying kites, or spinning This day commemo- Lunar New Year again when the indispensable ingredient in bu- tops. rates the founding of the Korean local grocery stores push the in- dae jigae, Korean for Army Stew, Mar Independence Move- nation by the legendary god-king famous can of Spam to the prime which is popular with both the ment Day Dangun. A simple ceremony is (March 1) real estate at the front of the store, older and younger generations of 1 This day commemo- held at several regions through- where it sits side-by-side with the Koreans. rates the Declaration of Inde- out Korea, namely at Cham- imported wine or expensive or- The taste of Spam produced in pendence proclaimed on March seongdan Altar on top of Manisan ganic mushrooms. Korea, which a Korean producer 1, 1919, while under Japanese Mountain on Ganghwado Island; Though gifts include tuna, cook- said is different to the flavor of colonization. Dangunjeon Shrine in Gokseong, ing oils, and local beef (Hanwoo), Spam produced in the States, May Children’s Day (May 5, Taebaeksan Mountain, and the best-selling gift is Spam. So and its ability to pair with kimchi Jeungpyeong, and at Dangun- substitute holiday May 6) much so, it’s even an incentive and rice is what keeps Koreans 6 This day celebrates seongjeon Shrine in Seoul. for company workers during the hooked. children and their parents’ hopes Oct Hangeul Day (October 9) holiday and Chuseok, Korea’s Spam is also known for its ex- for them to grow healthy and be- 9 Hangeul Day is a com- harvest festival in September. The tremely popular TV commer- come good citizens. On this day, memoration held to re- country is now the second biggest cials in Korea. Since 1980, when parents take their little ones to member the creation of Hangeul, consumer of Spam after the U.S., Spam was officially imported into children’s parks, amusement the country’s native alphabet as according to Hormel Foods, Korea – not smuggled in – the parks, zoos, or to the cinema for proclaimed by the publication of company began advertising a full day of fun and games. Hunminjeongeum on this day in the pink meat block as the ex- May Buddha’s Birthday 1446. ample of luxury. Although in (May 12) Dec Christmas (December 25) 12 recent years Spam’s popular- Falling on the eighth 25 Christmas is observed ity has declined, in Korea, bowls day of the fourth lunar month, as a national holiday in of warm rice topped with Spam elaborate and solemn rituals are Korea as in many other countries. and kimchi still conjure great held at many Buddhist temples To celebrate the festive season, memories for generations of across the country and lanterns Christmas trees and lights can be Koreans. And Lunar New Year are hung along streets leading to seen all over Korea. just wouldn’t be the same with- the temples. out it. Jun Memorial Day (June 6) – Korea Tourism Organization Memorial Day serves COPYRIGHTS 6 ©KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION. – ChiHon Kim to honor the soldiers ALL RIGHTS RESERVED and civilians who have given their www.visitkorea.or.kr

gifts or tokens of gratitude to Giving gifts & tipping Korean people. The most common examples are usually neighbors, or workers in South Korea from the Korean moving companies who move household goods or foreigners new to payment price marking system” pillow after you check out of to or from the base. In these situ- South Korea, guidance was implemented. the room. But, again, it’s not ations, it is acceptable to provide Ftoward tipping is usu- A tip is your choice if you feel expected. some sort of gift or treat. ally straightforward: Don’t do you received service beyond Additionally, if you find your- In Korea, it is common to offer it. While this is a good general what you expected, however it is self taking a taxi and the ride light refreshments such as sports rule, the tipping situation is a bit not required. comes to around 11,000 won drinks, fruit and bread to movers more complex than that. (around $10) it’s not uncommon who move household goods to or

Culture There are a few circumstances When you may tip to hand the driver 15,000 won from the base. The food expenses when it is appropriate or ex- It’s not uncommon to tip the and tell them to keep the change. of the workers are generally in- pected to provide either a tip or concierge and/or housekeeping Don’t be surprised if in any of cluded in the total delivery fee – some form of extra compensa- staff of a Western-influenced these situations, the tip is politely but this varies by company. tion in the form of gifts or treats. hotel. refused. If you would like to offer a Travelers should keep in mind If you’re staying at a high- monetary tip, hand them enve- that, like in the U.S., local cus- end Western-style hotel, it’s ac- Gifts of gratitude lopes you can buy at any conve- Education toms can change and there is ceptable to leave some money Americans affiliated with the nience store with a small sum no set-in-stone rule on tipping (around $10 depending on your military often have questions of money for their lunch to the or compensation, just general length of stay) underneath your regarding providing company’s representatives. guidelines. But remember, if If you use the delivery you’re at an on-base restaurant, contractor to the you are expected to tip. U.S. government,

Transportation You don’t have to tip anywhere you are not expect- in Korea, no matter how many ed to tip. stars your hotel is ranked or In the case of try- how fancy the restaurant where ing to give a gift to you’re eating is. Service fees and someone like a Korean tips are already included in the neighbor, good ideas include any

Private vehicles Private bill. Especially in restaurants, American snack, including chips, since 2013, when Korea’s “final nuts or chocolates. However, the ideal gift to give your new neigh- You don’t have to tip anywhere in Korea, bors is Korean rice cakes. Keep your gifts simple and Legal no matter how many stars your hotel is ranked or thoughtful and they will be well received no matter what you de- how fancy the restaurant where you’re eating is. cide on.

Living Toilet paper and detergent are lucky gifts

One of the advantages of living in a foreign In addition, Koreans used to hold a purifica- country is the fact that you get to experience a tion ritual to drive away bad luck and bad spirits totally different culture than what you’re used from the new house. Due to this, matches and to. If you are invited to a housewarming party in candles were a popular housewarming gift in the Food the States, what gift would you bring? You might 1960s and ‘70s but were replaced with deter- bring food, snacks or a bottle of wine. But, in Ko- gent and toilet paper over time. rea, a roll of toilet paper and laundry detergent Aside from being a lucky gift, perhaps the are the most common gifts to bring. For Koreans, most important thing is that your friend’s cabi- cleaning supplies bring luck and good fortune to net will be filled with toilet paper and detergent, the person who just moved into a new home. the detergent symbolize prosperity, wealth and which could be a relief for them in the months

Leisure Among both toilet paper and laundry deter- stability for the recipient. to come. If you are invited to a Korean friend’s gent, the roll of paper is the most common. Just Other customs according to local folklore, say house warming party, don’t forget the TP and the as easily as the paper unravels from the roll, so taking the remaining embers from the previous soap! is the gift-giver’s desire for the recipient’s contin- house’s fireplace to a new house will also con- ued success and good health. The bubbles from tinue the prosperity. – ChiHon Kim

16 Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20

You can also visit: DoDEA-Pacific Doing your DoDEA www.dodea.edu/Pacific Exchange Student Meal Program homework www.aafes.com/about-exchange/school-lunch-program/ Exceptional Family Member Program www.militaryonesource.mil/efmp he Department of Defense eligibility requirements and how Education Activity is a to apply for Sure Start. Let’s Move’s (nutrition and exercise tips) www.letsmove.gov T K-12 American school system for U.S. military, DoD Records Tutor.com (Free online tutoring for military families) civilian dependents and other Parents should hand- www.tutor.com/military eligible families. DoDEA Pacific carry all academic, im-

Culture manages schools in the districts of munization and special educa- Guam, mainland Japan, Okinawa tion records if possible. Some and South Korea. schools may require records to DoDEA Pacific website. and work to provide individual- be mailed. If so, send records via To pay for school lunches, ized support as needed. Registration U.S. Postal Service Priority Mail parents and sponsors will need However, overseas locations Families can register to the military address of the re- to set up and fund a prepaid ac- may not have the specialized online using the DoDEA ceiving school. Sending priority count with the agency that oper- medical or other support ser- Education Online Registration System mail to the Pacific usually takes ates your school’s lunch program. vices necessary to fully meet your (DORS). This system allows per- about seven to 10 days, while Contact your school for addition- child’s unique needs. Parents spective sponsors to complete other methods could take several al information. should consider how limited required documentation and in- months. The sending school can services may impact the growth clude uploads of pertinent forms also ship records to the commer- School liaison and development of their spe- prior to arriving at the new duty cial address of the DODEA Pacific officers cial needs child. DoDEA Pacific

Transportation location. A visit to the assigned school. It is recommended that School liaison officers staff members are available to school is necessary to verify you confirm the current mailing can help your family with transi- help parents with special needs eligibility and enrollment docu- address with the school. tion issues. SLOs operate inde- children make informed choices ments, and to finalize registra- pendently of DoD schools and throughout the school year. tion. Families may also complete Student meal / free have expertise in transition sup- You can reach out to the their registration in-country upon and reduced lunch port and advocacy for incoming District Special Education

Private vehicles Private arrival to the new PCS location. program families. Consider making con- Instructional Systems Specialist Contact the school website for of- All families with students en- tact with the SLO early in your (ISS) by contacting the DoDEA fice hours. rolled in DoDEA Pacific schools PCS process. District Superintendent’s Office Enrolled students who are ad- are eligible to apply for the Free in the location where you are con- vancing to the next grade level and Reduced Meal Program. Special needs sidering your next assignment.

Legal will need to revalidate enrollment Completing this application is an children A very helpful source for in- eligibility by providing a copy of annual requirement for families, If your child has spe- formation to families can also be orders or Letter of Employment if eligible, to continue to receive cial needs, be sure to research the accessed through the Exceptional verification along with any re- either a free or reduced lunch. To available support options for your Family Member Program. You quired and updated immuniza- find the correct Free and Reduced desired location. To the greatest can easily access this information tion records for each child. Meal Program point of con- extent possible, we fol- at: www.militaryonesource.mil/

Living Students preparing to enter tact for your family’s low an inclusion efmp kindergarten must be five years school, please model old by Sept. 1 of the enrolling visit the te April’s Home school support ebra school year. Proof of your child’s el Military Child DoDEA-Pacific schools C f the age must be provided through th o us! offer auxiliary services on with documentation such as birth cer- M to eligible military families who Food Each year, tificate or passport. choose to home school their Stars and Stripes teams up with Some DoDEA Pacific schools children. Auxiliary services DODEA to give our wonderful military brats offer a pre-kindergarten pro- include use of aca- a platform to be heard. Kids of all ages from gram called Sure Start. The demic resources, ac- across Pacific bases submit stories, poems, program offers a compre- cess to the library of drawings and photos about what life is like hensive approach to early the school, after hours as a military child. All of these run in our

Leisure childhood education in the use of school facilities, community newspapers in mainland Japan, areas of education, health, and participation in Okinawa, Guam and Korea. social services and family in- music, sports, and other They are also all published at volvement. Contact the school https://militarychild.stripes.com/. We hope directly to learn more about See DODEA on page 20 you and your children join in on the fun!

18 Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20

University of Maryland University College Take advantage of www.umuc.edu/military : Troy University: on-base colleges www.troy.edu/military Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University: he majority of colleges experience, and military educa- www.erau.edu and universities offering tional programs. T on-base courses will have The Defense Department has an office in your base’s education contracted colleges and universi- center with a counselor available. ties to provide in-resident college Administration/Management programs are offered at: Osan The counselors can also provide and graduate programs on mili- (graduate) programs and Air Base, Yongsan Garrison and information on scholarships and tary installations in mainland National Testing Center services. Camp Humphreys, South Korea;

Culture other financial assistance specific Japan, Okinawa, South Korea Kadena Air Base, Yokota Air to their program or school. and Guam for seven years. Troy University Base, Camp Zama, and Yokosuka Together, such colleges offer a The current contracted institu- For international relations Naval Station, Japan; and variety of training, undergradu- tions are: (graduate program). Andersen Air Force Base, Guam. ate and graduate programs – in- Undergraduate and Vo-Tech In-resident undergraduate cluding many online distance- Embry-Riddle Aeronautical programs are offered at 32 loca- and graduate aviation programs learning programs for those University tions throughout the Asia-Pacific are now available at: Camp Education stationed on bases where they do For aviation programs (under- region. Graduate programs are Humphreys and Kadena Air not have offices. graduate and graduate). only available at a few locations. Base. Many also have long-standing International relations gradu- Undergraduate and graduate relationships with the military University of Maryland ate programs are available at: teacher education programs are and cater to the specific needs of University College Osan Air Base, Yongsan Garrison no longer offered in the region. service members and their fami- For high school comple- and Camp Humphreys, South Contact your education center

Transportation lies. This includes the application tion (GED), academic skills, Korea; and Kadena Air Base and to learn what in-residence and of military benefits, academic undergraduate degree pro- Misawa Air Base, Japan. distance-learning programs are credit for military training and grams, Master of Business MBA/graduate management available on your base.

Private vehicles Private Education Centers

Camp Casey USAG Daegu Camp Humphreys Osan Air Base Bldg. S-1757 Henry Bldg. 1840 Bldg. 657 Bldg. 789 DSN: 730-1826 DSN: 763-4923 DSN: 755-3600 DSN: 784-4220 Legal Carroll Bldg. T-236 Fleet Chinhae DSN: 763-5406 Kunsan Air Base USAG Yongsan Bldg. 711 Bldg. 1051 Bldg. P2212 DSN: 762-5566 DSN: 782-5148 DSN: 723-8098 Living

DODEA from page 18 meet the same eligibility require- participating in extracurricular their dependents to commu- ments as dependents enrolled and interscholastic activities. nicate the desire to their com- extracurricular and interscholas- in DODEA schools who use or DoDEA encourages DoD spon- manders in order to determine if tic activities. receive the same auxiliary ser- sors who wish to home school there are any command policies Food Eligibility is limited to stu- vices. Eligible or other rules ensuring that home dents who are designated as home schoolers schooling practices meet host space-required (mainland are not required nation, state, commonwealth, or Japan, Okinawa and South to attend a spe- territory requirements. Sponsors Korea Districts) or DoD depen- cific number are responsible for complying dent students eligible to enroll in of courses with applicable local require-

Leisure Domestic Dependent Elementary to receive ments. Contact your local School and Secondary Schools (Guam auxiliary Liaison Officer or command rep- District) on a tuition-free basis. services, resentative to learn more. Home schoolers using or receiv- includ- ing auxiliary services must also ing – DoDEA-Pacific

20 Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20 Culture

Mastering mass Education transit in Korea

ou can get almost any- Travel by subway Transportation where on the Korean Several cities operate subway sys- Don’t forget to try the AREX for a quick train ride from Peninsula with minimal tems and almost all signs are in Y Incheon Airport to Seoul Station. The fare is compa- effort and for a very reasonable Korean and English. The Busan price via public or private trans- rable to that of buses, and much cheaper than taking subway system has three lines. portation. Whether by train, taxi, a taxi. Incheon to Seoul should be just about 8,000 Daegu, home to Camp Walker, bus, plane or your own privately- Camp Henry and Camp George won, which is just around $7.10 and takes around 45 Private vehicles owned vehicle, there is an adven- (neighboring Camp Carroll), has ture out there with your name on minutes on the express train. From Gimpo airport to two subway lines. Gwangju, in the it. Here are the basics for getting Seoul Station, the all-stop ride is a short 22 minutes southwest, is a great place to visit started. and costs about 230 won, or around .20 cents. if you are looking to relax, and it South Korea’s mass transit also has two subway lines. system is a nearly seamless com- Incheon’s subway system is con- bination of planes, trains, buses originally designed to provide an trains – the next lower level of nected to Seoul’s. It also has an and taxis that can get you within option halfway between airfares service. additional line. From Seoul, the Legal a short walk of nearly any desti- and the lower priced trains. It is Saemaeul trains offer a wider No. 1, or Dark Blue, line goes nation, while not having to worry still a fast and economical way range of schedules and destina- to Incheon, connecting to the about parking or what might hap- to travel between major cities in tion choices. The KTX may get Incheon No. 1 line at Bupyeong pen to your POV. Seoul is the cen- Korea. The KTX is limited to ma- you from Seoul to Busan lickety- (Pupyong.) tral hub for domestic and interna- jor cities, so you may have to get split, but its schedule is limited, The subway in the Seoul metro- Living tional travel. creative depending on your final and it doesn’t stop at many popu- politan area is run by the Seoul destination. lar tourist destinations. Saemaeul Subway System. Lines connected Travel by train The Gyeongbu (Kyoungbu) trains offer amenities such as a to it from outside the city are Korea’s trains are a great al- Line starts in Seoul and ends in dining car, restrooms and “tuk- controlled by Korean National ternative to air travel. They offer Busan (Pusan). The Honam Line shil,” or special cars. Railroad. There are now 14 or 15 many more destinations and trav- passes through Seoul (Yongsan Mugunghwa trains are yet an- subway lines in or around Seoul, eling times than airlines. Add in Station) and ends in either other step down in both speed depending on how you count. Food the time and money spent getting Gwangju (Kwangju) or Mokpo. and luxury. They cost less than No. 1 (Dark Blue) Line: Trains on to and from airports and it makes The standard fare to Busan on the the Saemaeul and stop at even this line run from Soyosan, just even more sense. Similarly, time, Gyeongbu Line is about 58,800 more locations. When riding the north of Dongducheon (Camp cost and destination should be the won (about $52) for designated Mugunghwa it’s well worth it to Casey), to either Incheon or

three deciding factors for which of seating and 50,000 won ($44) for pay extra for a special car, be- Seodongtan. The line separates Leisure Korea’s three basic types of trains unguaranteed seating. The fare cause a standard-car ticket on a at Guro (Kuro) Station. Those to use. on the Honam Line to Gwangju is heavy travel day will likely have going to – or coming from – ar- The fastest and most expensive around 34,300 won and 29,200 you standing in the aisles. eas near either Osan Air Base or is the Korean Train eXpress. KTX won, respectively. (Special com- Korea’s trains are comfortable Camp Humphreys will need to be trains normally run at speeds up partments are 140 percent of the and offer a great way to mingle on the Seodongtan portion of the to 300 kilometers per hour (186 basic fare.) KTX fares are 15 to 30 with the locals. Contact your local mph). KTX pricing on tickets was percent higher than the Saemaeul TMO for tickets. See TRANSIT on page 24

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king Ko • Hello, where can I b uy a transit card/train ticket? a re Gichapyo-reul eodi eseo sal su isseupnikka? TRANSIT continued from page 21 No. 8 (Pink) Line: The line runs in between. Taking e a • Where is the bus st op? from Amsa to Moran. There are the Bundang (yellow- p n Gakkaun bus jeon gryujang-eun eodie issseupnikka? line. There are some trains that do stops at Jamsil (Lotte World) orange) Line does S • Where can I find th e train station? not start or finish at the “terminal and also at Garak Market (Garak indeed get you to the Gichayeogeun eodie itseumnikka? stations” listed on maps, so check Shijang). same area, but it takes • Hello, can you plea se help me find the train platform going the destination listed on the front No. 9 (Dark Yellow) Line: The longer. Transit to ____? and sides of the train. line runs from Gaehwa to Annyeong hasipnikka? ___ro ganeun seunggangjang-eul allyeo- No. 2 (Green) Line: This line Shinnonhyeon. However, the ma- Travel by taxi jusigesseupnikka? forms a great circle around some jor stops are just one or two sta- In Korea, you will find taxis • How many more stops until I reac h ____ station? of the best places to go in Seoul. tions from the terminal. At one very convenient and inexpensive ___kkaji myeot jeonggeojang deo gaya hapnikka? If you are shopping, you can end is Gimpo Airport and at the compared to many other places • I’m lost. Can you help me? get to either the Dongdaemun other is the Express Bus Terminal. in the world. There are two main Gireul il-ut-sseupnida. Jom (Tondaemun) or Namdaemun (at Bundang (Yellow-Orange) Line: types of taxis in Korea: the “ilban” dowa-jusi-gesseupnikka? • I am trying to get to (camp) ___

Culture City Hall Station) market areas. Bundang is a newer commuter (basic) taxi and the “mobom” (de- You can get to several universities city with plenty of shopping and luxe) taxi. (base). Jeoneun ___ro garyeogo ham- or the Jamsil Sports Complex on interesting places to see. Starting The ilban taxi starts at 3,000 nida. this line as well. Check the map at Gangnam, the new Bundang won (about $3), while the mo- • Thank you! Gamsahamnida. well before boarding; going the Line, or Sinbundang, will eventu- bom starts at 5,000 won. wrong direction full circuit will ally end up at Suwon. Rates start from the basic make for a very long ride to your Jungaang (Light Blue) Line: This fare and go up either by Education destination. line runs from Yongsan Station in the distance traveled or the No. 3 (Orange) Line: The line central Seoul to the eastern reach- time elapsed. Fares of the runs from Ogeum, south of the es of Gyeonggi Province, ending ilban taxis increase by 20% Han River, to Daehwa out in the at Yongmun. This line is handy between the hours of mid- “Western Corridor.” It will get you for getting out of town for sled- night and 4 a.m. You can to Jongno 3 Ga, where there are ding and other winter adventures. catch cabs at a taxi stand

Transportation some good bookstores and shops Gyeongui (Aquamarine) Line: This or hail them on the street. selling musical instruments. It line begins in Seoul and ends in During rush hour or in will also take you to the Express Munsan, out in the western cor- bad weather expect a long Bus Terminal and Apgujeong, a ridor. It is a great line to use to wait. normally expected in Korea. popular gathering area for a night explore that area. If you are near a base, or if the However, it’s also customary to on the town. Sinbundang (Brown) Line: Some driver works near a base, you not expect small change after

Private vehicles Private No. 4 (Blue) Line: Trains run from 17 kilometers long, the new should not have much problem paying. On the other hand, driv- Northern Seoul’s Danggogae to Sinbundang line is essential- getting to your destination. If ers who often work around mili- Oido, south of Seoul. This line ly a shortcut from Gangnam not, you can get “taxi cards” from tary bases are more likely to ex- has stops for shopping at both Station down to the Bundang/ the USO. A bilingual staff mem- pect a small gratuity. Myongdong and Namdaemun Seongnam area. It runs from ber will write your destination in Mobom (deluxe) taxis are nor-

Legal (Hoehyeon Station). It also Gangnam Station in Seoul to Hangul (Korean) for the driver. mally dark in color and have a stops at Seoul Station. The four Jeongja Station in Bundang, with Make sure you get one for the way yellow sign on top. There is no stops south of Seoul Station - Yangjae, Yangjae Citizen’s Forest, back as well. late-night fare differential. Many Sookmyung Women’s University, Cheonggyesan and Pangyo stops Tipping the driver is not of the mobom taxis have stands Samgakji, Shinyongsan and Ichon - are all near entrances to Yongsan

Living Garrison. No. 5 (Violet) Line: The line Online help to get around Korea runs from either Sangil-dong Train how-to information, maps, routes, schedules, booking: or Macheon to Banghwa via info.korail.com/mbs/english Gangdong. Gimpo (Kimpo) Airport is on this line, two stops Bus zones, numbers, stops, fares: Food before Banghwa. english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/TRP/TP_ENG_5_1.jsp No. 6 (Ochre) Line: This line runs from Bonghwasan to Subway how-to information, maps, stops, fares: Eungam. The stops at Itaewon english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/TRP/TP_ENG_6.jsp and Samgakji are located next to Yongsan Garrison. Plane flights, schedules, booking: www.koreanair.com/global/en.html

Leisure No. 7 (Olive) Line: Running from Jangam to Onsu, this line has no- Hi-Pass On Board Unit (in Korean): table stops at Grand Children’s www.excard.co.kr/main.do Park and the Express Bus Terminal.

24 Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20 • Hello, where can I b uy a transit card/train ticket? Gichapyo-reul eodi eseo sal su isseupnikka? money each time. between downtown Seoul, its out- sensor at the front of the bus • Where is the bus st op? Hi-Pass requires an “On Board skirts and sub-centers. Routes are when getting on, and then use the Gakkaun bus jeon gryujang-eun eodie issseupnikka? Unit” (OBU) and a Hi-Pass Card. usually direct and efficient, with sensor at the rear door when exit- • Where can I find th e train station? Gichayeogeun eodie itseumnikka? The OBU can be purchased for few detours from main roads. ing the bus. • Hello, can you plea se help me find the train platform going less than the equivalent of $20 Green buses run between blue Seoul Metropolitan Subway re- to ____? online and at highway business bus routes and subway lines, usu- cently replaced many of its ticket Annyeong hasipnikka? ___ro ganeun seunggangjang-eul allyeo- offices, shopping malls and even ally using less direct routes. Their windows with automated vend- jusigesseupnikka? at some highway rest stops. terminal stops will be in adjacent ing machines. You can use them • How many more stops until I reac h ____ station? The Hi-Pass Card can be pur- zones. to purchase tickets as well as buy ___kkaji myeot jeonggeojang deo gaya hapnikka? chased and charged at many Red buses serve wide areas and and recharge T-Money Cards. The

• Would you please call a taxi for me? of the same locations. There is connect the outlying suburbs with vending machines are easy to use Culture Jeo daesine taeksireul bulleo ju a 5,000 won deposit required Seoul’s sub-centers. and have instructions in Korean, sigetseumnikka? when the card is purchased, and Yellow buses move through English, Chinese and Japanese. • I would like to go to ____. the card can be charged and re- the downtown areas and shop- Subway staff is also available at ___ro gajuseyo. charged in amounts from 5,000 ping districts of the metropolitan stations to help. • What is the fare? to 500,000 won. area. They usually follow circular

Yogeumeun eolmaimnikka? Education routes in limited zones. • Thank you! Gamsahamnida. Travel by plane Travel by bus Bus fares, like train and subway Roundtrip domestic airfares Bus travel in Korea is reliable fares, are based on the distance between major cities should cost at major hotels, subway and bus and the schedules are more con- traveled. Transfer discounts are less than the equivalent of $200. stations. venient than the trains. Some ex- also available, but only when us- depending on when you travel Many of the drivers speak some pressways have bus-only lanes for ing a T-Money Card rather than and which airline you use. Travel Transportation English, or at least enough to get peak travel times such as week- buying tickets for each ride. This agencies can often save you mon- you to and from well-known loca- ends, rush hour and major holi- rechargeable card is the easiest ey on airfares, while tour pack- tions. However, it would be wise days. The bus companies also run way to pay for bus, subway and ages may reduce lodging costs. to look for taxis with a “transla- extra buses on such peak days. even taxi travel in and around Some airports, especially those tion services available” sticker on One bus fills up and pulls out, and Seoul. It can be purchased from in smaller cities such as Kunsan, the side. another immediately pulls in for subway or bus ticket vendors offer few flights and destinations. Private vehicles It is also wise to ensure that the more passengers. and machines. The basic charge (To get to Seoul you may have to driver is using the meter when All major cities and most towns is 3,000 won (about $2.70), and go to Jejudo.) You may find that you start your trip, unless you in Korea have a main bus termi- it can be recharged with up to other means of travel better suit have (willingly) agreed upon a set nal. Transportation to other cities 90,000 won. your needs. price prior to starting your ride. is possible via the “kosok bus” ex- As an example, if you take lo- Airports are far from downtown SOFA personnel will find press system. In Seoul, the main cal buses and subways five times areas which, along with security Exchange taxis available on base. hub is the Gang-Nam Express Bus within 10 kilometers in 30 min- checks, can increase travel time (Some bases have a limited num- Terminal. Express buses do not utes or less and pay the fares with significantly. Travel plans should Legal ber of off-base taxis authorized have toilets on board, but they do T-Money, it will cost only 1,050 include the time it takes to get to, to come on the bases.) These on- make frequent stops at rest areas. won because the five rides are from and through an airport. base taxis are very convenient and Seats are comfortable enough for counted as a single trip. However, There are plenty of places to make life easier in and around travel but are not quite as roomy if you pay cash for tickets follow- visit in the Land of the Morning bases. Though the rates for these as those on a Greyhound cruiser. ing the same itinerary, it will cost Calm. Why not make getting to Living taxis is higher, unlike the ilban, Some buses run between cities 5,750 won. To get this transfer them part of the adventure? Try they accept dollars and the driv- on secondary roads. These de- discount, scan the card on the them all! ers can answer some questions pendable inter-city buses make you may have about the area. plenty of stops and are an interesting way to see Korea. There are Travel by car also buses that run from Incheon Driving around Korea has be- International Airport to key cities Food come much easier with GPS sys- such as Gunsan (Kunsan). tems available in both English Each city has its own bus sys- and Korean. At the same time, tem. Ask people who might know improvements to the highway or check with your local Morale,

system have made driving less of Welfare and Recreation Center. Leisure a nightmare than it once was. They should have information on If you plan on spending time on bus routes, points of interest and the highways, consider shelling other matters. out a little money for the Hi-Pass In Seoul, there are four differ- system to pay your tolls. Hi-Pass ent color-coded bus systems (bus allows you to pay the tolls without numbers indicate specific routes): having to stop and count out the Blue buses serve major roads

For more culture, travel, food and more, be sure to check out StripesKorea.com 25 Space-A travel Culture A way to see the world

privilege to Uniformed Have a back-up plan Remaining calm, positive and be- mission. Passengers may not use Forces personnel, their Because this program is a privi- ing flexible will help. Sometimes the flights for personal gain, in re- dependents, retirees, lege and not an entitlement, it is travelers attempt to catch a hop lationship to employment, to find Education A and others who support the imperative to understand the at neighboring base terminals. a house or for other prohibited mission, the Space-Available circumstances may change due For example, it is not uncom- activities. travel program may be a great to mission mobility. Flying ex- mon to travel between Ramstein Qualified travelers of Space-A option for seeing the world on a actly where you want to go at the and Spangdahlem Air Bases to travel need to be sure they have budget … if the timing is right. time or day you want to fly is not attempt to get a seat. Or, travel- completed the proper procedures The program is nicknamed always possible. The first obliga- ers drive between terminals in to ready for travel and also have

Transportation Space-A, and although that A tion of the AMC is to fill seats for Dover and Baltimore on a regular the required documentation. For is short for “available,” it could military missions, therefore avail- basis seeking seats. When flying instance, active duty must be on also mean “attitude.” Learning able seating fluctuates and could Space-A, be ready for anything. leave before they can register how to navigate the program change at any time on any part of Create a back-up plan and have for travel. Dependents of active with a positive attitude, plenty your destination. So, if you have a available funds in case you need duty flying unaccompanied need of leave and a back-up plan is specific itinerary, event or obliga- to make other travel arrange- an Unaccompanied Command

Private vehicles Private key for a successful “hop.” tion waiting for you at your desti- ments and accommodations Sponsorship from his or her nation or on your return, you may when space just isn’t available. spouse’s commander. The letter What is Space-A? want to reconsider using Space-A is valid for one round-trip travel The Space-A program allows for those travel plans. This pro- Who can fly Space-A? via military aircraft, describes the authorized passengers to oc- gram is designed for those who The program was created as reason for travel and the category

Legal cupy surplus DoD aircraft seats have enough available leave, time a way to enhance the lives of of passenger travel. The follow- after all space-required duty and flexibility to wait or change Uniformed Services duty per- ing are also mandatory for travel: passengers and cargo have been their schedule. sonnel by creating an avenue of military ID cards, passports, so- accommodated. Most Space-A For example, it may be a breeze respite; recognize the careers of cial security numbers and emer- flights are offered through to sign up and get seats on the veterans who have served; and gency contact information at the the Air Force’s Air Mobility first flight, but when you try to extend a privilege to other cat- final destination.

Living Command (AMC) or the Navy return, you could wait several egories of passengers such as de- and are usually free of charge, days for available space. Or, you pendents of Uniformed Services How do you register? except for a small tax (usu- could even be dropped off in an- personnel, Red Cross and USO You may register in person at ally under $30) charged per other country to wait for a flight. personnel who also support the each Space-A passenger terminal seat and per leg, when seats are on commercial, they are Food through Patriot Express flights. U.S. Airline Alliance Airlines American Airlines...... Phone: 050-3323-8790 Common destinations include the Continental U.S. states, travel packages Asiana Airlines....Phone: 050-3323-8790 Hawaii, Alaska, Germany, If you don’t feeling like using Space A, Delta Airlines...... Phone: 050-3323-854 England, Spain, Italy, Japan you can always try U.S. Airline Alliance, Phone: 050-3323-8549 and South Korea. Flights may Korean Air...... the travel agency for official and leisure

Leisure even go to South and Central United Airlines ....Phone: 050-3323-8790 travel on all USFK installations. Check America, Africa and Australia. out their website for office locations, Koridoor Tours.....Location: USO Sentry Village, Building 375 The best time to obtain seats phone numbers and hours of operation. Phone: 050-33-53-6249/6281 is when DODEA schools are in session. Website: www.ustraveloffice.com/main/index.php

26 Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20 Transportation at either the helpdesk, or through PACIFIC LOCATIONS self-help kiosks. You may also register through email, fax or OKINAWA NAF ATSUGI KOREA online, for up to five departure KADENA AB Bldg. 206 OSAN AB airports and five countries of 733 AMS, Unit 5145 Box 10 Phone: 0467-63-3118 Bldg. 648 destination. The website www. Phone: 634-5806 / 098-962 Facebook.com/AtsugiTerminal Phone: 315-784-6883 takeahop.org offers a free service 6487 Facebook.com/ to help you register for five depar- Facebook.com/AMCKadena MCAS IWAKUNI OsanABPassengerTerminal ture airports as well as five coun- Bldg. 727 tries at the same time. Recently, Phone: 315-253-5509 KUNSAN AB the site rolled out both a Take- Facebook.com/ Bldg. 2858 A-Hop iPhone and Android app Mainland JAPAN IwakuniPassengerTerminal Phone: 063-470-4666 for smartphone users. For a few MISAWA AB dollars, you have instant access Bldg. 943 YOKOTA AB to all Space-A terminal contacts, Phone: 315-226-2370/2371 Bldg. 80 flight information and the ability Commercial: 011-81-176-77- Phone: 315-225-5660/5661/ GUAM to quickly sign up for up to five 2370/2371 5662 ANDERSEN AFB flights through your phone. You Facebook.com/ Facebook.com/ Bldg. 17002 Unit 14008 can also monitor available activ- MisawaPassengerTerminal YokotaPassengerTerminal Phone: 671-366-5165 ity at the terminals through the app to save you time and keep you mobile. military dependent of non-de- Space-A terminals. Some ter- your name is called and you are Once registered, your informa- ployed Servicemember. minals are creating fan pages to not physically present to hear the tion remains active for either 60 Category VI – Retirees, improve accessibility and help roll call and manifested (readied days, or for the duration of your Reservists. travelers plan their travel. for flight and allowed to travel), leave orders or authorization Available seats are now identi- your name will be put at the bot- of flight, whichever occurs first. Baggage requirements fied as early as five hours and as tom of your category list, and Print a copy of your registration Passengers may check two late as two hours prior to depar- you may not make that flight. to keep on hand at the terminal. pieces of checked baggage, 70 ture. Being at the terminal early The time and date stamp of your pounds each, up to 62 linear for a flight will help you vie for Parting tips registration determines your po- inches in size. You and your fam- seats. As soon as you physically A hop flight could be either sition and priority within your ily can pool your baggage allow- arrive at the terminal, visit the on a military plane or commer- Space-A category. ances as well. Carry-ons must passenger desk to be sure you cial airline. If you travel on a Each passenger is assigned fit in overhead bins (if they’re are indeed registered with the military plane, be aware that ac- a passenger category for trav- available on the type of flight) or correct date, time of registration commodations and services are el. These categories designate under your seat. Hand-carried and number of seats. Use your different, from fold-down jump the order by which you may be baggage must fit under the seat previous printed email or docu- seats along the wall, cargo in boarded on Space-A flights. The or in the overhead compartment, mentation to help correct any front of you and a plane that is following list is generalized. For if available. As always, it is best discrepancies. Then, let the desk either pretty warm or cool, de- a detailed list, please see the to travel light because due to air- personnel know you are interest- pending on the time of year of Space-A handbook link men- craft or other restrictions, bag- ed in available flights. Be “travel- travel and location. Open-toed tioned above: gage weight could be restricted ready” with the proper luggage, or open-heeled shoes should Category I – Emergency travel on for your flight. any dependents and paperwork, not be worn on military planes. a round-trip basis in connection your car parked or rental re- So, wear appropriate footwear, with serious illness, death, or im- Getting a flight turned, etc. bring jackets, blankets, snacks, pending death of a member of Decide which terminal you bottled water and things to keep the immediate family. think would be the best chance It’s showtime for roll call you busy, like books, games or Category II – Environmental for Space-A departure and head You now wait for the “show- electronic devices. Available Morale Leave (EML) and out. It helps to phone the termi- time” of the particular flight plugs for charging are along the dependents. nals that you requested for de- you’d like to be selected (mani- walls. Remember to stay flexible. Category III – Active duty ordinary parture and monitor their recent fested) for, as well as the upcom- Travel during off-peak seasons Leave and dependents; conva- departure schedules. For OPSEC ing flight’s “roll call” of names (stay away from summer break lescent leave; permissive TDYs; reasons, Space-A flight schedules of those who are designated for and major holidays) and keep a Unaccompanied dependent of were removed from many on- the flight’s Space-A seating. The positive attitude about this great deployed Servicemember for line resources. However, termi- priority of your assigned cat- privilege. If you look at the pro- more than a year. nals usually record a short-term egory, the day and time that you gram as an opportunity for a Category IV - Unaccompanied flight schedule, and informa- signed up to travel and number new adventure, plan accordingly dependent of deployed tion is slowly being released by of available seats will determine and have a back-up plan, you are Servicemember on EML status. electronic means again. Check if your name makes the roll call. sure to have a great time, wher- Category V – Unaccompanied with Facebook for your favorite Remember, be travel-ready. If ever you land.

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Buying & registering a POV on the ROK

he roads of Korea may PCS-ing out and many are usu- • USFK 134 EK driver’s license office in the Camp Humphreys offer plenty of adven- ally trying to sell their vehicles (POV) area) and deregister the vehicle. T ture, but first get a car shortly before departing. These • Valid safety inspection They will issue a bill of sale as that will get you where you want vehicles often have a sign in the At Pass & Vehicle well as a new license plate. Take to go and back. window indicating their features Registration, complete the ap- it to Pass & Vehicle Registration To drive a privately owned ve- and price. Many bases have des- plication for registration and on base with the same docu- hicle (POV) in Korea, you need ignated areas for these vehicles, bill of sale. The office will cancel ments needed for a used vehicle

Culture a United States Forces Korea which are often called “lemon the old registration and transfer purchased on base. They will is- driver’s license. Active-duty per- lots.” This can be more than a ownership. An authority will sue a decal. sonnel, civilian employees and mere moniker. place a decal on the windshield, If you buy a new car off base, family members age 18 and old- The risk of buying a used ve- but the license plates remain the the dealer will provide you with er are potentially eligible. The hicle from a fellow SOFA-status same. a manufacturer’s certificate. It’s expiration date of USFK licenses person is that the vehicle may A more reliable option is written in Korean, but ensure depends on the person’s “date have had numerous owners, Military AutoSource. Vehicles your name is correctly typed in Education eligible to return from overseas,” many of whom may have done come with an import license and English. In the space requiring or DEROS. For military person- minimal maintenance because bill of sale. Take the bill of sale your KID (Korean ID) number, nel, licenses are normally good they only planned to use it for to an O-4, GS-12, NF 4 grade or put your Social Security num- for two years. For Department a short time. Inspect it careful- higher. Have that person sign as ber. If there are mistakes on the of Defense civilians, it’s up to ly. There is more to check than a witness. Take the documents form, Pass & Registration will five years. the required safety inspection to the registration office and not issue a decal.

Transportation U.S. military commands in items. fill out a registration applica- When delivery of the new car Korea have varying policies re- Many bases have Auto Hobby tion. The office will issue a decal is made, a temporary license garding who may purchase ve- Centers that will inspect the ve- and license plates. New vehicles plate will be placed on the vehi- hicles. The registration process hicle for a nominal sum before don’t require a safety inspec- cle. The temporary plate is nor- also varies, so check your local you buy it. They advise you of tion. You’re ready to roll in a mally valid for 10 days, but may restrictions. Next, determine the car’s defects before you hand vehicle with a warranty, U.S. be valid for up to 30 days. You

Private vehicles Private your needs and budget as well as over your hard-earned cash. The specs and an English-language may be subject to fines if you such variables as length of duty centers can also conduct the of- owner’s manual. fail to complete the registration tour and planned frequency of ficial safety inspection and issue Unfortunately, your “follow- process within that time. At the travel. the certificate needed before you on” orders may not include ve- registration office, you will need: Insurance is required prior to can register the vehicle. hicle shipment. It may also be • Manufacturer’s certificate

Legal registering a vehicle with USFK. The benefit of buying a used difficult to get what your car is • Temporary license plate When purchasing, discuss your vehicle from a SOFA-status sell- worth if you are forced to leave • Valid insurance policy needs in depth with an agent. er is that these vehicles are easy it behind. • USFK driver’s license It’s best to have more than the to register. Go with the current Buying a used car off base is License plates for a new car minimum required coverage. owner and registration to the more complicated. Accompany bought off base or one that has Finding vehicles to purchase Pass & Vehicle Registration of- the seller to the local govern- been deregistered must be is-

Living is the easy part. On U.S. military fice. You will need: ment office (Yongsan Ward of- sued by a Korean governmental bases, there is always someone • Vehicle insurance policy fice in Seoul, Pyeongtaek City authority.

On-base vehicle registration offices Food Camp Humphreys Osan Air Base Camp Walker Camp Casey/Area I Bldg. 6400; Tel: 757-4001 Bldg. 765 Bldg. 1712; Tel: 768-6108 Bldg. 2440, Maude Hall Mon – Fri: 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tel: 784-4489 / 784-1853 Mon – Fri: 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tel: 730-4472 (Closed for lunch 11:30 a.m to 1 p.m.) Mon, Tue, Thurs: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. (Closed for lunch 11:30 a.m. to 1 p.m.) Mon – Fri: 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Wed: 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Yongsan Garrison Fri: 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Camp Carroll

Leisure Bldg. 4304; Rm#114 Bldg. 946; Tel: 765-8575 Tel: 724-4811 Kunsan Air Base Mon, Wed, Fri: 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Mon – Fri: 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Bldg. 1310; Tel: 782-4900 Tue: 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. (Closed for lunch) Mon-Fri: 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Thurs: 1 p.m. to 4 p.m.

30 Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20 Private vehicles

Where to purchase a vehicle offers looks at an inventory of Mr. Bill’s Cars (www.mrbillscars. Road rules with There are many car dealers in early-to-late model cars priced kr.com) (010-4555-6266) is actu- Korea anxious for military busi- in U.S. dollars, with more than ally located by Yongsan‘s Gate 6. a local twist ness. Military AutoSource (www. 200 vehicles available at its con- The dealer, which was named Best militaryautosource.com), which solidated dealership and access to of the Pacific by Stars and Stripes Every place you drive there has served the military commu- many more. The firm offers on- for 2008, 2009, 2011 and 2012, are local “rules” not found in nity abroad for more than 46 base pickup to the dealership and gives its customers personal ser- driver’s manuals and/or on li- years, offers the finest Chrysler, full repair services. vice, from finding a car to getting it cense tests, but which should Dodge, Jeep, Ram, Ford, Lincoln If you are not looking for a new purchased and registered. It keeps be learned for safety’s sake. and Harley-Davidson vehicles to luxury car to see you through a complete record of inventory on Here are some for Korea: military personnel stationed, or your deployment in Korea, but its website. • Drive defensively. There are on TDY assignment for at least want something a cut above what AceMotors (acemotors.net/de- often more cars across a road 30 days, through independent can be found in a lemon lot, here fault.asp) (011-8875-8881), locat- than there are lanes. And at sales representatives on 11 bases are some dealers who want your ed across the river from Yongsan intersections, the traffic rules in Korea. business: near the Gayang Bridge, has been concerning lanes are some- US Military Sales (www.usm- serving the foreign community times merely guidelines. ilsales.com), selling new U.S.- Camp Humphreys Area since 1997. It claims to have more • Don’t get caught using bus specification Volvos, will help Kang’s Auto Sales & Service than 2,000 cars on its lot, from lanes on expressways, which you save thousands of dollars on is only a 2-minute drive from luxury to inexpensive, foreign to are marked off by a blue line. Stateside MSRP. Their showroom Dongchang-ri Gate. They Korean made. The firm offers to The fines are steep. is located near the Dong Chang-ri have been serving the Camp help buyers from A to Z, from get- • The rule of thumb is that, in gate at USAG Humphreys, with Humphreys community for more ting your driver’s license to reg- merging traffic, the vehicle in additional sales offices at the U.S. than 10 years. Tel: 031-691-2255 istering the car you buy and pur- front has the right of way. So, Embassy Association Building or 010-5691-6243; Address: chasing insurance. It even rents in the face of a certain ten- at USAG Yongsan Garrison and 17911 80, Paengseongdaegyo-gil, cars, short or long term, until you dency toward aggressiveness near Osan Air Base’s walk-in gate. Paengseong-eup, Pyeongtaek-si, buy one of your own. by Korean drivers, it is good They also take trade-ins and sell Gyeonggi-do. Karstart Inc. (www.karstart. practice to yield even if you’re used cars. Call 010-3098-4507 for CarMax Humphreys (www. co.kr/) (Alex 010-5742-5741) of- first. more information. carmaxcenter.com) (010-9474- fers two ways to purchase a ve- • Pedestrians and bicycles have BMW / MINI Military Sales help 0619), is located about 5 min- hicle: from inventory or ordering the right of way over cars. You you to save up to 25 percent from utes away, halfway between the one based on your requirements. don’t even have to hit anyone MSRP for all U.S. military mem- Anjung-ri and Dongchang-ri It’s easy-to-use website, which to get in trouble. If you scare bers when purchasing a BMW/ Gates. They have been serving lists vehicles according to size and someone on a bike and they MINI while stationed in Korea. the Camp Humphreys commu- type, shows photos of the cars in fall, you are liable. Your choices can vary, Korean nity for more than 20 years. its extensive inventory and quotes • Be particularly careful when specs, as well as U.S. specs, are OMG Motors (sites.google.com/ prices in dollars. driving in rural areas as peo- available depending on your sta- site/omgmotors/services/home/ GRIT Motortainment offers vari- ple’s homes exit directly on tus. Visit their office located in omg-motors-used-car-sales) (031- ous auto tuning parts, from tires the street, and children often Yongsan (Across from Yongsan 655-7911), a self-styled foreign and rims to exterior body kits. It race out without thinking. The Garrison’s Gate #8) and their car specialist, is located less than is well-known for being a one-stop roads there are also very nar- Pyeongtaek office, located less half a mile from the main gate shop that you can consult on main- row and have no sidewalks, than a mile away straight from of Camp Humphreys. Though it tenance, repairs, used and new car so yield at all times. Anjeong-ri Gate. For more details, started as a car repair facility, it purchases, plus tuning parts. They • Get physical landmark-type go to www.bmwdsskorea.com, has since branched out into used are dealers of Rotiform, Hamman directions when driving some- Facebook and Instagram, or call car sales. Ask for Lee, Sung Min. Motorsports and Kahn Designs in where new as few streets 1577-2696(BMW M). Johnny’s Used Cars (010-5356- Korea, and their aftermarket parts have names and most hous- CraigsList (seoul.craigslist.co.kr/ 3065). Ask for Johnny Kim. fit numerous domestic and im- es/businesses do not have cta/) is growing more popular as port car brands. Their showroom addresses visibly posted. a way to find a used car in Korea. Yongsan Garrison Area is located near Costco Gongse The well-known site lists vehicles James Garage, a 2-minute walk and is open Monday through for sale by owners and dealers, from Commissary Gate, has been Saturday. For more info, go to and usually displays a photo of the serving the USFK community for www.gritmotortainment.com or car as well as basic details about it. more than 30 years. This facility call 031-285-9500. Another popular website for is not only a used car selling agent cars is USFK Classifieds (usfkclas- but also a professional auto repair Osan Air Base Area sifieds.co.kr/) (010-8222-5573), shop. You can have a look at pre- HANMMI AUTO SALES Ask a Yongsan-area dealer which screened used cars available right for Jack (010-6202-8256), claims to cater specifically to U.S. on the spot at James Garage. Call 37, Jungangsijang-ro, 6 Forces Korea. Its easy-to-use site 02-796-6062 or 010-3742-6062. Beon-gil, Pyeongtaek-si.

Image by Sgt. Tiffany Edwards, III MEF Head to Stripes.com to stay up to date on all breaking news 31 hanks to GPS, getting lost is nearly a thing of the past. Unfortunately, Camp Twith military bases, and the sometimes countless entrance gates, finding your exact destination via GPS can often prove harder than it should. Below, you’ll find the exact latitude and longitude coordinates for many of the gates coordinates located in Korea. Need to find the gate near the golf course at K-16 Songnam? Just input the coordinates below (37.448649, 127.104741) into your GPS de- Travel base to base vice of choice, and you’re sure to make that 7 a.m. tee time.

1. Camp Casey Main Gate 37.917666 (latitude), 127.056608 (longitude) 3. USAG Yongsan Back Gate Gate #1 (Dragon Hill Lodge)

Culture 37.925343, 127.056331 1. Camp Casey 37.530496, 126.984413 2. Camp Hovey Gate #3 (Noksapeyong Station) 2. Camp Hovey 37.534849, 126.983015 Main Gate Gate #6 (Commissary Gate) 37.898553, 127.081548 37.527395, 126.991405 3. Yongsan Gate #16 (Samgakji Station) 37.537828, 126.974749

Education 4. K-16 AB 4. K-16 AB 5. Suwon AB 5. Suwon AB 6. Osan AB Main Gate Main Gate 37.448649, 127.104741 7. Camp Humphreys 37.245974, 127.013330 Songnam Golf Course 37.478171, 127.156384

Transportation 6. Osan AB Main Gate 37.079084, 127.049969 Back Gate 37.086756, 127.050803 9. Camp Walker 10. Camp Henry Private vehicles Private 11. Camp George 13. Camp Mujuk 8. Kunsan AB 12. Camp Carroll 13. Camp Mujuk Main Gate 7. Camp Humphreys 35.961750, 129.422196 Anjeong-Ri Gate (Main Gate) 36.957884, 127.045043 14. Chinhae Naval Base

Legal Anjeong-Ri Gate (Pedestrian gate) 36.959117, 127.043068 14. Chinhae Naval Base Dongchang-Ri Gate Main Gate 36.969125, 127.037009 35.155258, 128.655048 Hamjeong-Ri Gate 36.951142, 127.018124

Living Dodu-Ri Gate 36.960906, 126.990362

9. Camp Walker 11. Camp George 8. Kunsan AB Gate #4 Main Gate Main Gate 35.839972, 128.588496 35.849856, 128.595182 Food 35.925842, 126.615635 Gate #6 35.841656, 128.583400

10. Camp Henry 12. Camp Carroll Front Gate Waegan 35.850272, 128.599680 35.989317, 128.405329

Leisure Back Gate 35.849102, 128.604473

Camp Hovey Bulldog DFAC Photo submitted by Nate Harris 32 Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20

hile in the Repub- by a SOFA person, brought in Law and order lic of Korea, all U.S. through the APO or obtained at W military and civilians post exchanges, commissaries, under the Status of Forces Agree- shoppettes and Class VI stores. on the ROK ment (SOFA) between Korea and Transferring includes selling, America are subject to both U.S. bartering, pawning, loaning and and Korean laws as well as U.S. giving a gift; however, gifts of Forces Korea regulations. While duty-free goods are permitted, if many Korean laws are similar the gift is under $50 and is not to those back home, some local alcohol or tobacco, was not pur- laws, regulations and legal cus- chased from a commissary and toms may catch you off guard. is not a subsistence item. Service Your base chain of command members may also be required

Culture or legal office should be the first to show continued possession or place you go with legal questions lawful disposition of high-value or concerns. duty-free purchases. If there Here are a few local laws and is a question about a proposed legal customs you might want to transfer, prior approval from the consider: command should be obtained.

Education Assaults Counterfeit products In Korea, verbal altercations Many “brand name” items can (shouting matches) are not un- be purchased cheaply in Korea, usual, but shoving is not toler- but they may be counterfeit; and ated. Avoid being provoked into if so, they may be confiscated pushing a Korean at all cost. when taken or mailed back to

Transportation Under Korean law, this is an as- the U.S. Personnel on leave to sault. China or Southeast Asian countries may be tempted to pur- Black marketing chase “bargain” goods that may U.S. regulations and Ko- be seized by Korean customs of- rean customs laws prohibit ficials if they are determined to

Private vehicles Private U.S. personnel from transfer- be counterfeit upon re-entry to ring duty-free goods to persons Korea. And there have been cas- not entitled to duty-free privi- es of Korean prosecutors seeking leges, except under limited cir- criminal indictment for smug- cumstances. Duty-free goods gling when large quantities of

Legal are those imported into Korea counterfeit goods were involved.

afforded SOFA protections. the agreement and, in particular,

Legal SOFA status personnel must from any political activity Understanding what abide by Korean laws except where the SOFA explicitly su- SOFA Card SOFA means for you persedes or abridges Korean All U.S. Forces Korea person- laws. Examples are the waiver of nel should carry an HQ USFK, passport and visa requirements SOFA Card (USFK FL 1EK) at Food he United States-Republic by the U.S.-ROK SOFA. U.S. civil- for active duty military person- all times. The SOFA Card is de- of Korea Status of Forces ians employed by, serving with or nel and exemptions from Korean signed to assist USFK personnel T Agreement is an inter- accompanying U.S. Armed Forc- taxes on wages and salaries paid in the event they become involved national agreement designed to es and their dependents are also to SOFA status personnel by the with Korean law enforcement of- serve the mutual interests of the covered by the U.S.-ROK SOFA. U.S. government. ficials. The ROK authorities have U.S. and the ROK, and to protect Persons in Korea to perform SOFA Article VII established agreed in cases of apprehension,

Leisure the basic rights of U.S. citizens contracts or render services ex- the principal that SOFA status to promptly notify the USFK au- who are subject to its provisions. clusively for the U.S. Armed Forc- personnel are obliged to respect thorities in order for the appre- Personnel of the U.S. Armed es are designated invited contrac- the laws of the Republic of Korea hended person to communicate Forces on active duty in Korea tors or technical representatives. and to abstain from any activ- with a representative of the U.S. and their dependents are covered They and their dependents are ity inconsistent with the spirit of government. (See Page 36)

34 Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20 Legal

Criminal court Elderly people attorney for the suspect during drivers. As a defendant in a criminal Elderly people in Korea are questioning. During question- If a driver is involved in an trial, a U.S. service member is treated with great respect and ing, persons under SOFA are accident, it will almost always not entitled to representation by service members should make entitled to the presence of an be considered his/her fault and a JAG attorney. The U.S. govern- sure to treat them likewise. Vio- U.S. representative appointed may be treated as a criminal of- ment will pay for the services of lence or abuse of the elderly is a by USFK. SOFA persons have an fense. an English-speaking Korean at- serious crime in Korea. absolute right to refuse to make In case of an accident not torney. The court will appoint a statement; and they should be involving a fatality where the an interpreter. A U.S. official will MERS quarantines highly discouraged against sign- damage or injury is paid for, the act as a trial observer to ensure A sudden outbreak of Middle ing any purported statement un- Korean government will usually that the service member receives East respiratory syndrome, or less it has been translated into not press charges unless alcohol, all the procedural safeguards to MERS, in June 2015 and wide- English. fleeing the scene, gross negli- which he/she is entitled. The De- ly flaunted quarantine rules A person subject to custody gence (extreme carelessness or partment of Defense and the De- prompted Korean authorities to upon arrest (e.g., caught in the recklessness) or another major partment of State will be notified pass a stringent new quarantine act for murder) may not be in- traffic offense is involved. The where it appears that the service law. terrogated until both a U.S. rep- command can assist the service member’s SOFA rights are not Under the law, anyone in- resentative and a lawyer repre- member in making a settlement; being granted. fected with the virus who defies senting the accused is present. and no action should be taken quarantine orders or lies to in- Statements taken without their which could aggravate the Kore- Drug stores vestigators about how they may presence are not admissible in ans. Korean drug stores and simi- have come into contact with the court. If an accident occurs, the driv- lar establishments are off-limits disease, will face up to two years Korean authorities also may er should stop immediately and to U.S. personnel. This restric- in prison or a fine of up to 20 not question an accused in cus- not attempt to flee the scene. If tion is imposed because some million won (about $18,000). tody after indictment, except the Koreans believe a driver has controlled substances under The new law also requires police about totally unrelated matters; attempted to flee the scene, they U.S. law can be purchased with- and firefighters to help enforce even then, a U.S. Representative are more likely to begin criminal out prescription in Korean drug quarantine orders. must be present. proceedings. Anyone who is in- stores. jured, or may be injured, should Police questioning Traffic accidents be transported to a hospital. The Drunk driving U.S. constitutional law and Traffic in Korea is different military police (MPs) should be Korean law concerning driving Article 31 of the Uniform Code than in the U.S. It is not un- notified immediately so they can under the influence of alcohol is of Military Justice do not apply common for children to play in conduct their own investigation. much stricter than U.S. law. A to the interrogation of SOFA the streets, people to cross the If the driver cannot gain access to blood alcohol percentage of .05 persons by Korean officials. Spe- street outside a crosswalk with- a telephone, he or she should ask percent is a violation of Korean cifically, although a suspect has a out looking or drivers to do the the Korean police to call the MPs. law. This is much stricter than right to have an attorney present unexpected. Under Korean law, the usual standard of .08 percent during questioning, the Korean drivers are responsible for the – Compiled from media and United under most U.S. jurisdictions. government need not provide an safety of pedestrians and other States Forces Korea sources

What to do if you run into trouble – Page 36

Civil court jurisdiction However, Korean civil court U.S. service members. The U.S. lation. The U.S. always requests The Korean courts have judgments cannot be enforced if has exclusive jurisdiction only the Korean government to waive civil jurisdiction over all the cause of action arises out of when no crime has been commit- jurisdiction in cases involving USFK personnel regardless the official duties of USFK per- ted under Korean law; the U.S. U.S. military members where of nationality. USFK military sonnel or if a claim was paid in has primary jurisdiction only in Korea has primary jurisdiction. and civilian employees and settlement. Whenever an official those limited instances when the If Korea elects not to exercise their dependents can sue and Korean judicial document is re- alleged offense is solely against jurisdiction or does not respond be sued in Korean civil courts ceived by USFK personnel on any the property or security of the within a given time period, the in cases concerning breach of civil action, they should immedi- U.S., is solely against the person U.S. military may exercise juris- a lease, support of illegitimate ately consult with a USFK legal or property of another person diction. Korea is most likely to children, failure to pay just assistance officer. covered by the SOFA or arises out exercise jurisdiction over seri- debts and damages and injuries of any act or omission done in the ous violent crimes (murder, rape, from an accident. A Korean civil Criminal jurisdiction performance of official duty. robbery, etc.), serious black-mar- court judgment generally can Your SOFA standing is not Unless an alleged offense falls keting offenses, hit-and-run driv- be enforced against the money a “Get Out of Jail Free Card”. within one of these exceptions, ing and attempts to commit such and personal property of USFK Korea has exclusive or primary Korea has exclusive or primary offenses. personnel while in Korea or when jurisdiction over almost all of- jurisdiction even where the of- relocated in the U.S. fenses committed in Korea by fense occurs on a military instal- – United States Forces Korea

Be sure to like us on Facebook! Just search for @StripesPacific 35 Legal Dealing with the law f you are out in town and run into trouble, there a few things you Ineed to do.

HQ, UNITED STATES FORCES KOREA SOFA CARD REQUEST FOR ASSISTANCE 구원 요청 1. Carry this card at all times. If you are apprehended by or

Culture There has been a traffic accident. become involved with Korean law enforcement authorities, 교통 사고가 났습니다. SHOW your ID CARD and THIS CARD. Please notify Korean police and US military police. 2. OBEY ROK AND U.S. LAW ENFORCEMENT PERSONNEL IN- 한국 경찰 및 미군 헌병대에 연락해 주십시오. STRUCTIONS. Please call an ambulance or doctor. 3. If you are involved in an accident: 구급차나 의사를 불러 주십시오. ❶ Attend to injuries, if any. Take steps to prevent any further Where can I find a telephone? accident from occurring at the scene. Education 전화가 어디에 있습니까? ❷ Telephone the nearest civil and/or U.S. military police office STATEMENT OF SOFA STATUS: (See below for telephone numbers to reach U.S. facilities). 본 카드 소지자는 주한미군 사령부 소속으로서 한미 행정 협정 ❸ DO NOT LEAVE THE SCENE until authorized to do so by the 규정에 의한 처우를 받는 사람이며 대한민국 경찰당국의 지시에 police. 따르도록 본 카드에 기재되어 있습니다. 4. If you are detained by Korean authorities: 한미 행정 협정에는 소지자가 한국당국에 의하여 체포되면 한국 ❶ Show the Korean authorities the statement of SOFA status Transportation 당국은 미군당국에 즉시 통고 하도록 규정되어 있습니다. (to the right) and request that the nearest U.S. military police 가까운 미군당국의 전화번호는 뒷면에 기재되어 있습니다. 즉시 be notified. 연락해 주시기 바랍니다. ❷ Cooperate with Korean authorities at all times. FOR THE COMMANDER ❸ You may refuse to sign any statement that you cannot read 사령관의 명에 의하여: or understand. Private vehicles Private EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NUMBERS – USFK COMMERCIAL TELEPHONE NUMBERS TO U.S. FACILITY DSN 911 (MP/Fire/Ambulance) 05033 + DSN last six digits (ex. 05033-24-4258)

U.S. FACILITY AREA U.S. MILITARY Legal

POLICE MEDICAL CAMP CASEY DONGDUCHEON DSN 110/730-4417/4418 DSN 116/730-6142 DSN 110/724-4258 YONGSAN SEOUL DSN 724-6695/3004 DSN 116/737-5545 Living HOST NATION NURSE LIAISON Contact the Red Cross at DSN 738-3670/737-4196 CAMP HUMPHREYS PYEONGTAEK DSN 110/753-3111/3112 DSN 116/753-8111 CAMP WALKER DAEGU DSN 110/764-4141 DSN 116/764-4222

Food CAMP CARROLL WAEGWAN Contact Cp Walker DSN 116/765-7954 CAMP MUJUK POHANG Contact Cp Walker NONE DSN 911/784-5515 DSN 911/784-2500 OSAN AB OSAN Comm. 031-661-5515 Comm. 031-661-2500 SUWON AB SUWON Contact OSAN Air Base

Leisure DSN 911/782-4944 DSN 911/782-4323/4333 KUNSAN AB KUNSAN Comm. 063-470-4944 Comm. 063-470-4323/4333 DSN 762-5345 DSN 762-5415 CHINHAE JINHAE Comm. 055-540-5345 Comm. 055-540-5415

36 Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20 Off-base living

f you decide that base living just isn’t Joint Domicile (JD) and Military to Military (Mil for you, there are many off-base options to Mil) Statement Reminder: I understand Iavailable. But, with the option to live off that if my spouse PCS’s, retires, departs, or base comes some rules and regs to consider. separates, I am still obligated to fulfill my Here are some things to keep in mind if you lease contractually between the landlord plan to sign a lease off base. and myself at the same rent cost until ex- Renters Insurance

piration of lease. As stated, if one service Culture Your real- member remains they are contractually ob- Property manager/maintenance: • Protect yourself and your personal tor is your property manager and POC for ligated to fulfill lease to term and Military property (household goods, etc.) all maintenance problems. Your realtor is Clause does not apply to remaining service • Renters insurance may be the most the liaison between LL and you. You should member. be able to contact them whenever you need overlooked asset by residents! their assistance. It is also a requirement for Renewal lease (same unit): • Landlords have insurance, but only Education all realtors to speak English. • Go to your realtor – they will provide you for their buildings; Landlords are not the renewal lease (with their stamp) for responsible for protecting the renter’s Utilities: Your realtor will provide you your you to bring to HSO to renew your lease. personal property. utility bills and usage. Your base housing of- *Note: If you are extending your DEROS • The U.S. government does not pro- fice can translate your bills for you if needed. (ie AIP, medical etc.) bring orders/amend- vide or take responsibility for personal Transportation ments that states your new DEROS. property insurance. Lease negotiations: Once you have signed a • Off-post residents are strongly en- Leasing a different unit once current lease is up: lease in the housing office, the realtor/land- couraged to secure personal property lord and leasee cannot request changes to • Obtain realtors list from housing office (if insurance for their protection in both the signed lease. This is a signed contract! not using same realtor) private sector and on-base housing. No lease negotiations will be done outside of • Once you have found a place to live, it’s Private vehicles the housing office. If your realtor/landlord mandatory that you schedule a safety is asking for additional money that was not inspection at the base housing of- on your signed lease or asks to modify your fice. Once scheduled, inform signed lease in any way without approval your realtor of date and time. from your housing office, contact housing. • Also, schedule a lease signing at the housing office after safe- Military clause: Your lease agreement will ty inspection, either same day contain a military clause. A military clause (in the afternoon) or next day. Did You Legal alerts the tenant that they are protected un- This is to ensure your realtor der the Service Members Civil Relief Act. provides the housing office a The act provides protection, such as termi- property deed and includes Know? nating a rental agreement prior to the end it with your safety inspection The number 4 is an unlucky number in of the lease term for reasons such as perma- report. Korea. The fourth floor is often skipped Living nent change of station, deployments exceed- • Bring clearance verification in public buildings. ing 90 days, separation from active duty or from old unit (to ensure the offer of government quarters. LL cleared you!) Food Leisure

For more culture, travel, food and more, be sure to check out StripesKorea.com 37 Garbage disposal rules & regs

he Korean Government mandates trash disposal and requires all resi- T dents, including U.S. personnel and foreigners, comply with these laws. Failure

Culture to comply may result in severe fines (up to 1 million won). Trash must be separated into four categories: common garbage, food waste, recyclables and large waste items. Also, Korean garbage bags must be used. No U.S.-style bags (Hefty, Glad, etc.) or plastic shopping bags (AAFES, Education Commissary, etc.) can be used. Proper bags may be purchased at any off-post gro- Dos and don’ts cery store, department store (Lotte Mart, E-Mart, Home Plus), and many convenient stores, or on-post at the Commissary. with dogs and cats NOTICE: Disposing of trash, garbage,

Transportation or other solid waste in on-post dump- rivate Sector Housing may authorize Leash law: Pets will be on a leash at all times sters by off-post pets. Always go through your LL/ when outside the housing unit. If pets are residents is strictly PRealtor (property manager) regard- outside, they must be accompanied by a PROHIBITED. ing pet information for your residence. You member of resident’s household who is ca-

Private vehicles Private are also authorized pets on base. pable of controlling them at all times. Cats will not be allowed to roam uncontrolled Pet registration and must be on a leash when outside of the All those assigned to USFK must register housing unit. their pets with their base veterinary within

Legal 10 days of arrival. The importance of pet Fecal droppings: Residents shall clean up the YELLOW (food) registration is as follows: waste left by their pets during walks and en- • Installation Command and Housing Policy sure that common areas are not littered with • Noncombatant Evacuation Operations fecal droppings. All feces will be disposed (NEO) in the correct location of their resident ap- • Heartworm area (Korea) – Keep your pet pointed areas.

Living healthy! • Priority for sick pet appointments/well- Barking & howling: Please be aware that we ness appointments are guests in a foreign country and to con- • Routine surgeries trol your animals at the proper times of the • Boarding and doggie daycare requires day. WHITE (standard) medical record documentation Food • Preparation for PCSing from Korea Insect infestation (fleas, ticks, lice etc.): All costs associated with delousing and disin- Pet policy fecting private sector or on-base housing Microchip program: USFK Veterinary Services will be paid by the resident. requires the mandatory implant of micro- chips in all newly acquired pets belonging Balconies: Balconies will not be used as ken-

Leisure to Status of Forces Agreement personnel, in nels to house pets. Use of the balcony for all adopted animals, and in any impound- fecal droppings is prohibited and will be ed stray animal prior to releasing the pet grounds for immediate termination. Private to owner. Microchiping will be at owner’s sector residents should respect the rented expense. property of the landlord.

38 Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20 Living Medical & TRICARE overseas

roops and family members receive • Priority 5: All other eligible persons. Self-care at on-post pharmacy medical and dental care in both mili- It is also important to manage expecta- Need an over-the-counter medicine for a Ttary treatment facilities and host na- tions as there is at times limitations in some minor issue? Grab a number at the instal- tion facilities upon referral from their pri- fields of medicine or limited providers. You lation clinic’s pharmacy and a pharmacist mary care manager. The military hospital can generally expect to obtain an appoint- will help take care of you. No appointment at Yongsan, in Seoul, also provides services ment for an acute/same day care within 24 needed! for soldiers and family members. All eli- hours. Emergency care is available at sev- www.korea.amedd.army.mil/WEBAPP/ gible patients receive access to high-quality eral nearby hospitals. RXREFILL/DEFAULT.HTML (need CAC card health care governed by DoD and TRICARE • Open Access - same calendar day to access) regulations and guidelines. Access to care • Routine - 7 calendar days www.korea.amedd.army.mil/default.html has been designed to support active-duty • Wellness (physicals and well woman ex- (need CAC card to access) dependents to help them obtain care eas- ams) - 28 calendar days ily, and thus make it possible for active-duty • Specialty Care - 28 calendar days Emergency room services members to perform their military service • Dental Routine - 21 calendar days & off-post medical care without worrying about health care for their For more info, go to: Korean hospitals serve as the emergency dependents. The priority of care is based on www.korea.amedd.army.mil/default.html medical facilities for the U.S. military com- the following categories: www.tricare.mil munities. Nearly all hospitals have English- • Priority 1: Active-duty service members; speaking patient liaisons to assist during • Priority 2: Active-duty family members who any hospital visits. service mem- are enrolled in Tricare Prime; bers and families are provided • Priority 3: Retirees, their family members a local map and contacts in and survivors who are enrolled in Tricare the event of an emergency Prime; during in-processing. • Priority 4: Active-duty family members who are not enrolled in Tricare Prime; - U.S. Forces Korea Living

do go this route, you might consider throughout Seoul and a customer Getting connected bringing someone who can speak call center exclusively for foreigners. Korean. In Korea, there are three The most representative KT center, main providers: SK Telecom, LG located in Gwanghwamun, provides with a cell phone U+ and Korea Telecom (KT). If you mobile phone subscription manu- want to weigh your options and see als in foreign languages. Moreover, all of what Korea cell providers have in partnership with the volunteer o, you’ve just PCSd to Korea, to offer, here is a quick breakdown. translation service organization, and now you need to get a BBB Korea, the Gwanghwamun Snew cell phone. Well, first SK Telecom service center offers consultation in off, they have those here, so you’re SK Telecom operates several au- 17 different languages. in luck. Now, where do you start? thorized stores with signs that say ‘T As you’ve likely already noticed, World’ or ‘SK 텔레콤 (Telecom)’ as LG U+ most bases in Korea already have a well as a customer call center exclu- Formerly known as LG branch where you can get a phone sively for foreigners. Please call the Telecom, LG U+ is owned by the without leaving your installation. customer center beforehand in or- LG Corporation. The company is There are definitely benefits to stay- der to find out which stores provide known for its G series of smart- ing on base, but just because it’s the interpretation services, since not all phones as well as a variety of other easiest, doesn’t mean it makes the of them do. electronics including TVs. With most sense for your situation. There roughly 20% of the market, the No. are plenty of off-base locations Korea Telecom (KT) 3 mobile service in Korea trails its throughout the country, but if you KT operates three service centers two main rivals.

ing K •Hello •Yes, this is ____ speaking. ak ore Yeoboseyo Please tell ____ to call me back. e a Thank you. p n •Hello. May I please speak to ___? Ne, Jeoneun ____ ipnida. S ____wa tonghwa-hal-su-isseulkkayo? ____ ege jeon-hwa-hae dallago jeon-hae-juseyo. Gomap-seupnida. •____ is not here. May I take a message? Jigeum an-ge-sipnida. •Okay. Good bye. Speaking on the phoneMemo (or meseji) namgyeo deu-ril-kkayo? Ne alge-sseupnida. Sugohaseyo.

king K •Welcome! For here or to go? a o e re Eoseo oseyo! p a Exploring Korea’s Deusigo gasinayo animyeon pojanghae deurilkkayo? S n

•For here, please./ To go. true flavor Yeogiseo meokgo galgeyo / Pojang haejuseyo.

n Korea, there is no end to what people can see and experi- •May I take your order? ence, but trying Korean food is on the top of most visitor to-do Joomoon hashi gessoyo? Common phrases for Ilists! So let’s explore some of the dishes that are sure to im- ordering food at a restaurant press you with Korea’s true flavor!

Bibimbap: Rice with nutrient-packed flavor its origin remains unclear, based on the fact that buckwheat was Bibimbap, or cooked rice mixed with vegeta- introduced by the Mongol Empire during the Goryeo Dynasty, it is

Culture bles, sautéed beef, and twigak (dried seaweed theorized that Koreans first began eating it around that time. or vegetables fried in oil) is one of the defini- tive Korean dishes in the eyes of Koreans and Kimchi: Over 1,500 years of fermented tradition also globally. There are three common beliefs Kimchi is a fermented dish made with vegetables about the origin of bibimbap. One theory is that and a variety of seasoning ingredients. There are it stemmed from the practice of mixing bap (cooked over 300 varieties, but when it was first made rice) with other dishes used for the ancestral rite of eumbok. prior to the Three Kingdoms Period (AD 57- Education Others say that bibimbap originated from mixing leftovers togeth- 668), it required a very simple recipe of salting er as a midnight snack on Lunar New Year’s Eve. The last theory is and storing napa cabbage in a ceramic contain- that farmers out working the fields would each bring a portion of er for fermentation. In the old days, kimchi was food to be mixed together and divided evenly. an important source of vitamins in the winter, when fresh vegetables were unavailable. What was originally a simple Samgye-tang: Rejuvenate yourself during the sweltering summer salted pickle has now become a complex dish requiring assorted

Transportation Samgye-tang is made by simmering a whole young chicken seasonings and varying according to climate, geographical condi- stuffed with ginseng, hedysarum root, jujubes, and sweet rice. tions, local ingredients, methods of preparation and preservation. Considered an energy-boosting dish best eaten on hot days, it is a classic Korean dish that has be- Sundubu-jjigae: The best source of protein come popular among international diners as Sundubu starts out being made in the same well. Many restaurants even add samgye-tang manner as ordinary tofu; first boiling soy-

Private vehicles Private to their menu during the summer, an example milk then coagulating it by adding brine. of its popularity. Samgye-tang is well known But it leaves out the later steps of draining to foreign visitors as well. Japanese author Mu- and pressing the lumpy bean curds, giving it rakami Ryu and Chinese film director Zhang Yimou an easy-to-digest silky, light texture. In Cho- have both given extensive praise to the dish. dang Maeul, a village famous for its sundubu, clean

Legal water from the East Sea is used as brine for thickening. It started Bulgogi: Sweet treats for special days when Chodang Heoyeop, a magistrate of Gangneung region during Bulgogi is prepared by marinating thin the mid-sixteenth century of Joseon Dynasty, discovered that the slices of beef before grilling them. In the water from a spring in the front yard of his office tasted so fresh past, the royal court and yangban (no- that he made tofu from the spring water and used sea water instead bles) in Seoul called it neobiani, meaning of brine. The name Chodang was then adopted from Heoyeop’s pen

Living “wide meat slices.” Traditional grilled meat name. dishes in Korea originated from a dish called maekjeok. Maek was the name of the northeast Mandu: A dish dating back to the Goryeo Dynasty region of China, and is also a reference to Goguryeo, one of the Mandu (dumpling) is made by placing a filling earliest Korean kingdoms. Maekjeok is made with barbecued beef of ground meat and vegetables onto a round, skewers, and according to folklore, evolved into present-day bulgo- thinly rolled wrapper and sealing the edges. Food gi through the introduction of grills, which made skewers obsolete. They were initially prepared for ancestral rites or banquets and enjoyed as a special Naengmyeon: Cool and refreshing noodle soup dish for cold winter days. When discussing Naengmyeon, cold buckwheat noodles, is considered a summer the origin of Korean dumplings, a famous folk food, but that wasn’t always the case. It used to song called “Ssanghwajeom” (dumpling shop) from be enjoyed over a warm ondol floor (subfloor the Goryeo Dynasty is frequently mentioned. The song

Leisure heating system) during the freezing winter describes how a group of Uighurs arrived and opened up dumpling temperatures. The broth was made with shops, and also how the people of the day greatly enjoyed the dish. the brine of dongchimi (radish water kim- Some people refer to the song and joke that a Mongol who opened chi) scooped out of a large jar half-buried a dumpling shop in 1279 may have been the first foreign investor to in the ground during the winter. Although live in Korea.

42 Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20 Food king K a o •Do you have an English menu? e r long been perceived as a luxurious and elegant p e Yeongeoro doen menyupani isseupnikka? a dish, and was always served on birthdays, wed- S n •Yes, we have an English menu./ No. dings and 60th birthday celebrations. Japchae Ne isseupnida. / Anio eopsseupnida. was first created in the 17th century when King Gwanghaegun hosted a palace banquet. It is re- •Where is the toilet? corded in the Gwanghaegun Ilgi (Daily Records of Hwajangsil-eun eodie isseupnikka? King Gwanghaegun’s Reign) that Yi Chung, one of the king’s favor- Common phrases for ites, had the habit of personally presenting unusual dishes to the king. Gwanghaegun relished these dishes so much that he would not ordering food at a restaurant start a meal until they arrived. Among these unique dishes was japchae, which the king favored over all the rest. Galbi-jjim: Soft and tender, the quintessential holiday food Gimbap: A full meal in a single roll Galbi-jjim (braised short ribs) is made from Gimbap is made by spreading white rice on a sheet the finest and most expensive cut of beef. As such, of gim (dried laver), layering it with spinach, pick- galbi-jjim is usually eaten on special occasions or holidays, when led radish, carrots, egg, and beef, and then roll- family members come together. Korean cooking consists of a large ing it up like sushi. It was in the 1960s and 70s number of braised dishes that require considerable culinary skill. that the gimbap we know today - rolled up into Galbi-jjim is one such dish, growing in popularity among interna- a cylindrical form - became popular. This rice-roll tional diners as well. When making galbi-jjim, the fat on the short was the default picnic lunch for annual spring and ribs is carefully removed before braising. Carrots, ginkgo nuts and autumn school outings. Many Koreans fondly remem- chestnuts are added, and finally pyogo (shitake mushroom) and egg ber eating the end pieces of the rolls while their mothers prepared garnish are sprinkled on top to complete the preparation process. gimbap on the morning of school field trips. Glazed with soy sauce, galbi-jjim not only has a rich taste, but a mouth-watering visual presentation. Tteok-bokki: The most popular snack Originally, tteok-bokki was not a spicy dish. Jeyuk-bokkeum: Plenty to share with while sizzling hot In the royal courts of Joseon, it was prepared by Jeyuk-bokkeum (spicy stir-fried pork) is one of the simmering beef, carrots, onions, pyogo (shitake best-known dishes cooked with gochu-jang. It is a mushroom) and other ingredients together with stir-fried dish with thick slices of pork shoulder rice cakes in soy sauce. The colorful ingredients marinated in hot gochu-jang and minced ginger. made it visually appealing as well as nutritional. It Before the 1950s, it was reportedly made using is believed that tteok-bokki seasoned with spicy gochu-jang paste only scallion, black pepper, and soy sauce, but first appeared in the 1950s and became widely popular later during the current form of gochu-jang-marinated jeyuk- the 1970s. bokkeum is believed to have appeared sometime afterwards. Because it is a hearty yet inexpensive Dakgangjeong: Second to none and goes with any drink meat option, young people on limited budgets favor jeyuk- Dakgangjeong is made by deep-frying chicken coated with flour. bokkeum. Youngsters often list it as their favorite food, and many The fried chicken is then smothered in a sweet sauce Korean mothers will talk about how their son can “finish a pound of that has been boiled down to a thick consistency. jeyuk-bokkeum in one sitting.” The dish, sold at Jungang Market, is unique in that it is served cold. The dakgangjeong is so Japchae: A classic dish on festive days famous because of its sweet and spicy taste, Japchae (glass noodles with sautéed vegetables) is made by boil- and despite being served cold, it is not soggy, ing glass noodles, then draining and mixing them with stir-fried but crisp and chewy. spinach, carrots, mushrooms, beef and onions. The term japchae is a combination of jap, meaning “mix, gather, or plentiful” and chae, – Korea Tourism Organization

meaning “vegetables.” Thus, it can be translated as “assorted mixed COPYRIGHTS ©KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED vegetables.” No Korean festivity is complete without japchae. It has www.visitkorea.or.kr

USO Camp Casey The USO connects you Building #2648 Beside the Casey Bus Terminal to family, home & country DSN: 730-4813 Hours: Mon. – Fri. 9 a.m. – 8 p.m. Sat. – Sun. 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. Facebook.com/CASEYUSO our service to our country can take you to the far corners of the earth, but America’s love and support Yfollow you wherever you go. The USO strengthens America’s military service members by keeping them connected to family, home, and country throughout their service to the nation. USO Korea is a place where you will find your

Culture “home away from home.” It is the ideal place for newcomers to get their bearings, local military families and guests to gather, for those on deployments to connect to loved ones, and for those in transit to relax and unwind. You can enjoy all the amenities provided at our five centers around the peninsula with everything from Pot Luck Mixers and Taco Night, to salsa dancing, Korean lessons and unique events like Special De- livery baby showers with What to Expect Author Heidi Murkoff (coming October 2018). USO USO Osan AB Korea offers a wide variety of free Bldg #916, across from Chili’s Education programs and services to keep DSN: 784-0469 you and your family connected to Hours: Mon. – Thurs. 9 a.m. – 8 p.m. those things you often miss while Fri. – Sun. 9 a.m. – 10 p.m. rendering service to our country. Facebook.com/USOatOSAN To see the full scope of our amenities, programs and events,

Transportation check out USO Korea website at https://korea.uso.org/ or the USO Centers’ Facebook pages. Center hours listed below are minimal hours, and many centers also have extended hours during

Private vehicles Private exercises. Visit all five!

USO Camp Humphreys - North Rest & Relaxation Multimedia & Gaming Building #6400 Rm #H105 Air Conditioning, Cozy, Relaxing Environment DVD & Blu-ray Player, PS4, TV & Cable, Wii U, DSN: 723-5364 Legal with Recliners, Couches, Beanbag Chairs and Xbox 360, Xbox One. Hours: Mon. – Fri. 8 a.m. – 5 p.m. AFN Cable Television. Sat. and Sun. Closed Connectivity Facebook.com/uso.humphreys Food & Beverages CAC Readers, Computers & Laptops, DSN Free Drinks and Snacks, Coffee & Tea, Food Phone, Charging Stations, Desk & Work Ar- Programs. eas, Printers, Wi-Fi, Print, copy, scan services,

Living Skype telephone calls.

*Amenities may slightly differ from location to location Food Leisure

Learn more about USO Korea at korea.uso.org

44 Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20 USO Camp Casey Building #2648 Beside the Casey Bus Terminal DSN: 730-4813 USO Camp Casey Hours: Mon. – Fri. 9 a.m. – 8 p.m. Sat. – Sun. 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. Facebook.com/CASEYUSO

USO Osan AB Culture USO Camp Humphreys North USO Camp Humphreys South Education

USO Camp Walker Transportation Private vehicles

USO Camp Humphreys - South USO Camp Walker Building #375 Building #318 Legal Across the street from Burger King Across the street from the PX DSN: 753-6281 DSN: 764-4437 Hours: Mon. – Sun. 9 a.m. – 9 p.m. Hours: Daily 9 a.m. – 6 p.m. Facebook.com/uso.humphreys Facebook.com/USO.CampWalker Living Food

VOLUNTEERS: Interested in joining an awe- some family during your time away from home? We are always looking for passion- USO Mobile App: To learn about USO programs

ate volunteers at all our locations! Please and services near you, make sure to download the Leisure register online at volunteers.uso.org to join USO Mobile App, for both iPhone and Android. the team. We can’t wait to meet you!

Learn more about USO Korea at korea.uso.org Like us on Facebook

For more culture, travel, food and more, be sure to check out StripesKorea.com 45 Leisure

Here to serve the overseas American military community he American Forces Network (AFN) served an equally crucial role for command- Korea. provides overseas U.S. military, ers, helping them reach the force and their A single channel of AFN television was a T DOD civilians and their families families, both on and off military installa- huge morale boost a generation ago. Now, force protection information and a touch of tions. From mobile radio vans communicat- the network offers shore-based audience home with radio and television entertain- ing to American forces advancing in World members eight TV services, all in high defi- ment, news and sports. War II, to crucial force protection messag- nition. Sailors afloat in the Pacific receive Our “granddaddy,” the Armed Forces ing via radio and social media during ter- three: a sports, news and entertainment TV Radio service, began May 26, 1942. In the rorist attacks, typhoons and emergencies, service. years since, America’s military broadcast AFN remains a trusted source for real-time What hasn’t changed since 1942 is that network has operated under many different information. AFN continues to provide the most deserv- names, following service members wher- Today’s AFN stations enjoy advantages ing audience in the world with real-time ever they serve, to include war zones and unimagined generations ago. Once a single force protection updates and the very best U.S. Navy ships at sea. Today, the overseas channel, radio now offers a dozen different radio and TV entertainment, news and military audience we serve knows us simply audio services and streams over the Inter- sports. Let us know what you think. Give us as “AFN.” net. Visit www.AFNPacific.net/AFN-360 or feedback at myafn.net. Click on the “contact While millions of Americans serving over- install the AFN Pacific mobile app on your us” tab! seas have tuned in to AFN for popular en- Apple iOS or Android device. AFN Eagle ra- tertainment over the years, the network has dio also broadcasts over the air in Japan and – George A. Smith Websites worth bookmarking Culture

Stripes.com and StripesKorea.com are Haps Korea, if you’re visiting Busan, has Equality and Family run website. It has of course the most accessible sources of you covered on what’s happening there. comprehensive information on daily life in military and local military community news, hapskorea.com Korea, from Korean language to culture. Education respectively. More English- and Korean Hike Korea is a great little website for www.liveinkorea.kr language newspapers can be accessed online the serious and casual hiker alike to start Seoul Eats is a comprehensive collection via: www.w3newspapers.com/south-korea researching their next walkabout in the of restaurant reviews that lets users search Bustago is an integrated electronic service Land of the Morning Calm. www.hikekorea. and read about eateries by type of cuisine, for intercity buses. It offers mobile and com location and price. Users can also post their Transportation Internet intercity ticket reservations and Hostels: Seeing South Korea on a own reviews. www.seouleats.com home ticketing without visiting terminals. shoestring budget is a better experience if Seoul Magazine, though apparently not www.bustago.or.kr/ you are well rested. In Korea you can find regularly updated, offers a wealth of articles Community Korea lets English speakers accommodations well below $20 per person on this city’s culture, sites, fashion, food and sign up for language exchange classes, per night. www.hostels.com/south-Korea more. www.seoulselection.com join community events and build cross- H ticket offers information about express Seoul Metro provides details on the city’s Private vehicles cultural friendships. This site is becoming buses of 42 routes throughout the country. subway system including maps, fares, increasingly popular with the military If you are unable to find a suitable bus for timetables – even commuter etiquette. community. www.communitykorea.com your travel, check this website out. www. Choose English at the top of the homepage. Easy Korean Food is for do-it-yourselfers, hticket.co.kr www.seoulmetro.co.kr offering a plethora of Korean recipes for Imagine Your Korea is the Korea Tourism ShipitAPO helps ensure that online those who want to cook Korean food at Organization’s official site. It is an shopping is alive and well in Korea. www. home. www.easykoreanfood.com inexhaustible source of detailed information shipitapo.com/home.php E law is for those who like to invest in on what The Land of the Morning Calm Templestay is a way to get away from Legal Korea and anyone who lives in Korea. It has to offer – attractions, natural beauty, the rat race and find some inner calm by offers a good breakdown of Korean law. hotels, travel, shopping and more. english. participating in temple life. This experience https://elaw.klri.re.kr/eng_service/main. visitkorea.or.kr is not for everyone, but for some it is a real do Korea Blog is a well-honed collection of vacation. eng.templestay.com Gb is a local government run website polished prose that offers valuable insights The Jeju Weekly is more than this resort Living in Gyeongsangbuk-do area, offering on all things Korea – travel, culture, art and island’s only English newspaper. It has information about local festivals, events, more. Koreanetblog.blogspot.jp/ comprehensive news and information on government activities more. www.gb.go.kr/ Korea 4 Expats is a cornucopia of English- all things Jeju – from arts, culture and eng/main.jsp language information – from events and conventions to tourism, attractions and public transportation to business and daily business. www.jejuweekly.com life – for foreigners living in the ROK. www. The Man in Seat Sixty-One is a British korea4expats.com creation devoted to travel by train, bus and Food Korea.Net is a government-run English ferry. As such, it is a portal to sites with this site that has breaking news, features and kind of travel and schedule info to and from, great information on the history of Korea. as well as within, South Korea. www.seat61. Did You www.korea.net/index.jsp com/SouthKorea.htm

Life in Korea is a great source for finding 10 Magazine is more than the sum of its Leisure out more about the local scene – from parts with regularly updated events, ranging Know? sports, shopping, travel – even food. Just from high art and fun for the family to select a food type from “Grilled,” “Soups,” concerts, films and nightlife. 10mag.com McDonald’s delivers in South Korea. etc. for the pronunciation and specific Zen Kimchi is for those who like exploring a They also serve up specialties like descriptions of what you are about to enjoy. country through its food. It offers restaurant the Crispy Oriental Chicken Burger www.lifeinkorea.com reviews and info on food-related events and and McSpicy Shanghai Deluxe. Live in Korea is a Ministry of Gender tours. zenkimchi.com

Head to Stripes.com to stay up to date on all breaking news 47 Leisure Helpful travel tips

ep, you are now in Korea! Things are a little bit different here, but below are some Ytips to help you adjust to your new environment.

Use app for train travel Public transportation in Korea is abun- dant and on the cheap side when you are looking to get off base and explore. Of course, there is always the language barrier. Explore Seoul with special pass Fine dust and pollution? But don’t worry, if you are traveling on the Purchasing a SEOUL TRAVEL PASS will There’s an app for that! train, there is a handy mobile app that will allow you to get the most bang for your buck Living in South Korea, you may find your- help you navigate the rail system in English. if you plan on exploring the South Korean self coughing and choking under the thin KorailTalk is used by many foreigners, so capital. Exclusively for foreigners, the pass layer of dust sweeping the country. The fine you should give it a try. Just type in “Korail” will get you free admission or a discount dust, which most Americans commonly in the app store and KorailTalk will pop up. to 96 major tourist attractions, including refer to as “Yellow Dust,” originates in the Set the app to English and off you go. You Gyeongbokgung Palace and Namsan Seoul deserts of Mongolia and China and is a ma- can book a ticket on the app and just show Tower. Cardholders will also get discounts jor health hazard. Despite its name and vi- your reservation info from the phone if the for performances at various venues and sual similarity to city smog, it should not be train man asks for your tickets. duty-free shops across the city. You can also taken lightly. If you are not into apps, here’s a helpful use the card for public transportation, add- Every year, the dust sickens thousands. English website that will help with train ing money to it as needed to pay for the sub- In extreme cases, it can be deadly. Those travel: www.letskorail.com/ebizbf/EbizbfFor- way, bus or taxi conveniently. Designated exceptionally vulnerable to the dust storm eign_pr16100.do?gubun=1 local dealers (Incheon, Gimpo Airport and phenomenon include infants, pregnant To make a reservation on the website, you the Myeong-dong Tourist Information Cen- women, and the elderly. During times of have to print the ticket out yourself or show ter) sell the pass, which can be used for 24 high dust counts, local governments issue your reservation info from your phone at a to 72 hours depending on which pass you warnings which include directions limiting train station ticket window. purchase. vehicles on the road, limiting outdoor activi- The Seoul Travel PASS app brings the ties, and suggesting facemask use. How to do it convenience of the card to your phone, how- These warnings, unfortunately, are usu- 1. Type ‘Korail’ in the app store search ever, the app will not work for train, taxi ally only issued in Korean. Not anymore! bar and install it. or bus fares. The app and card also include Monitor the air quality in your area (and in 2. Tap the icon circled in red in top-right 24-hour use of Seoul’s public bicycles, a other parts of the world) in English with the of the app screen. one-way ride on the Airport Express Train AirVisual app. Not only will it help you plan 3. Tap the icon circled in red in the top- from Incheon to Seoul and one free ride on out your day according to the dust index, but right of the app screen again. a Seoul city tour. it will also send you notifications when your 4. Tap the language setting and make area is at critical levels. The app is available your pick. PRICES: 24-hour pass 39,900 won / 48-hour for iphone and android. More information: 5. Type required information and book a pass 55,000 won / 72-hour pass 70,000 won https://www.airvisual.com/air-quality-app ticket. which has a steep mountainous approach, but Exploring Korea accessible to everyone via ITT trips. Seoraksan The top things to do on the ROK Seoraksan National Park truly is a gem in the northeastern part of the country. It features enormous granite outcroppings and MUST-SEE SITES see the 360 views of the city it can’t be beat. durable pines perched precariously high. The If you are brand new to Korea, here is an For a very special date, a visit to N’Grill is in- main entrance to the park has a large temple absolute must-do list. And if you have family credible – make reservations for 20 minutes complex and cable car up to a windswept out- come visit, this list makes a great introduction prior to sunset. Directions and varying costs cropping. There are many hiking options, but

to the country. The attractions are all eas- at www.nseoultower.co.kr our favorite is in the southern portion along Culture ily accessible via public transport, inter-base Nandaemun or Dongdaemun (Seoul) the Heullimgol Valley boardwalk trail to the bus, or base travel offices. Whether you’re into shopping or not, a stop Yaksuteo Ranger Station, and then return- Also, the Official Korean Tourism Orga- here provides a cultural experience. Namdae- ing via a taxi. Note that the Seoraksan camp nization (KTO) has a thorough website and mun is an incredible collection of buildings ground is outside the park and not ideal for numerous ways to get involved (english.vis- and underground spaces crammed with stall trail access. I highly recommend visiting mid- itkorea.or.kr/enu/index.kto). The KTO also after stall of vendors selling everything under week as it gets insanely crowded on week- Education offers the amazing 1330 phone number; call the sun. Dongdaemun has a gigantic fabric ends. it anytime you need translation help or travel market nearly bursting with trendy fashion Eat Korean street food information like bus or ferry times. designer subordinates running around with This can be done anywhere! Walk out the Korean Folk Village lists; plus two more sections fea- main gate at Osan or trek to Gwangjang market This may shock some as the No. 1 thing ture the fashions of the day (or the Gwangjang market in Seoul Transportation on this list, but the folk village in Yongin is a night) with half open daily and and try it all. Dip the eomuk fish wonderful introduction to old Korean culture half open nightly. Namdaemun cakes, sit at a metal barrel on that truly helps build an appreciation for the is my pick. www.namdaemunmar- the plastic stools and partake Korean people. I love it in the fall and spring. ket.co.kr of soju and raw squid with old This place fed my obsession with how pre- Korean War Memorial (Seoul) men. Have some fried corndog industrial cultures heated their homes; ondol Here is another sober reminder goodness or even go the distance Private vehicles floors are the best. of what Korea has been through in and eat “pundaeggi” (silkworm DMZ its recent past. This museum walks larva). An absolute must-do for an in-your-face visitors through the entire history See a Show (Seoul) look at the reason our armed services are in with many interactive exhibits and There is a lot of talent and cre- this country. This is it, folks, the real deal. videos; all in multiple languages. The actual ativity in Korea! Go to a concert, watch a play, Book a tour through the travel office on base memorial at the center is simplistic and very see the symphony, or watch a non-verbal or the USO. Make sure your trip includes the symbolic. There is also an extensive outdoor performance such as Bibop, Jump or Nanta. tunnels and the JSA. section featuring vehicles and equipment, Seoul gets major acts and does excellent Legal Gyeongbokgung (Seoul) plus two very large wings with carved memo- Broadway. Easy booking at globalinterpark. Again, we are back to ancient Korea with a rial names of the fallen. With some parental com/main/main visit to Gyeongbokgung. Seoul has four palac- guidance and discretion, I find it appropriate es, but this is the biggest that allows you to ex- for all ages. www.warmemo.or.kr (Korean) DAY TRIPS plore on your own. Changdeokgung is a close Magoksa There is a lot to do in Korea that has nothing Living second and includes the pretty Biwon (secret Magoksa is situated along a stream near to do with the downtown scene, and a signifi- garden) but must be visited on a joined tour Gongju and has a very serene setting. Like cant portion of it is nearby. All of these sites from the ticket office, which may not be con- all Korean Buddhist temples, the approach are worthwhile to visit and most of them can venient for those on a time is part of the mindfulness be seen via public transportation. Some are crunch or with kids. The involved in a visit. At Ma- obviously kid-specific, but Korean attractions palace is the first of four goksa, you are treated to are typically both single and family-friendly must-dos that are in Seoul. a nearly 1-kilometer for- alike. When traveling in Korea with kids, it’s Food N’Seoul Tower (Seoul) ested walk along a stream. generally easier to navigate without a stroller; A trip up to N’Seoul tow- It is absolutely bursting if you must bring one, smaller is better. er at sunset is absolutely with color in the fall. Un- Begin right outside Osan Air Base with a bike wonderful. On a clear night fortunately, public trans- ride along the Jinwi river bike trail. Pedal out

you can watch the entire port is not simple to most the Morin Gate, turn left and follow the road Leisure city light up and soak up the Korean folk village Korean temples as they are as it curves right out of town, turn left onto feeling of being part of the Photo submitted by Koua umeno conventionally up in the route 306 at a light; the trail access is at the gigantic whole that is Seoul. There are a few mountains. Magoksa is no different, so driv- next bridge over the river. You could even fol- options to get up Namsan Mountain: Taxi to ing by car is best. Go south on I-1 or 39 and low the trail northward to the Jinwi Commu- the cable car, take a Namsan bus, or hike from choose a connector to 329. The parking lot nity Campground and Pool. one of the parking lots. It is not necessary to is located at 36.556542, 127.020494. A close go up the tower for a fun experience, but to second choice for Korean temple is Guinsa, EXPLORE on page 50 Background photo: Gyeongbokgung Palace Photo submitted by Kelly Curtis Be sure to like us on Facebook! Just search for @StripesPacific 49 Everland

EXPLORE continued from page 49 enjoy the outdoors or go inside the tower for exhibits on water life and views over the city. This campground is open year-round, and Another highlight is the Osan Arboretum; a it makes a fun mid-week campout when it huge formal garden with beautiful trails, la- is completely empty, though a faint sewage beled trees, ponds and greenhouses. It is right smell wells up with westerly winds. It’s also across the street from the Osan College train fun (and crazy loud) to watch the airplanes station and the nearby Super HomePlus with just overhead! The public pools are open dur- its extra-large kids play land. While most de- ing summer only. Korea has numerous bike partment stores have kid lands for cheap bab- paths along their rivers, including another ysitting, this one takes the cake for sheer size alleys and tucked into apartment complexes; close by in Osan City and the extensive pen- and options. It costs more for these features the Songtan International Community Center insula-wide 4-rivers trail system that includes and is a special treat for my kids. Even with- park is easy walking distance out the front biking along the Han river in Seoul. You out children, this extra-large HomePlus is gate, through Sinjang shopping, and left

Culture could even bike all the way from Seoul into worth a wander or just to visit the food court along the train tracks toward the Morin gate. the mountains near Chuncheon and take the for lunch. If it’s too cold or too hot, then a Kid Café subway back or go the distance to Busan! Visit is a must! Not only are the local kid cafés fun KTO (Korea Tourism) for further details. SHOPPING for your children, but they all have free Wi- If you would prefer using your own feet to Speaking of shopping, there are numer- Fi for moms and dads to watch the kiddos get into nature, then the Songtan Buraksan ous options right outside the gate. First, of play while you sit back and sip your coffee. Trail system is perfect and so close. There are course, are all our friends and good neigh- In Songtan, my kids and I prefer Kizzly for a Education many access points, but the closest is via a bors who own businesses along Sinjang Shop- good price, trampolines, train table and de- connector trail near the city library. Exit the ping straight out the Osan Main Gate. This cent food. If you have a kid who loves trains, main gate, turn right and then left at the tri- is the place to make personal friends with then a quick trip up the subway to Uiwang angle, continue straight over the tracks and talented Koreans who can sew you a custom Railroad Museum will be a highlight. past the bus terminal. The trailhead is be- fitted dress or suit, create a painting you’ve There are numerous outdoor static dis- hind the city library always wanted, make plays of full-size locomotives, plus an indoor

Transportation on the right side of Lotte Department Store that blanket, embroi- museum with a large model. Then there is the the road: 37.078602, der that bag, engrave KidZania. Whew – this indoor theme park up 127.059540. Anoth- that award, or even in Seoul is a mini kid-centric city where your er great day trip is find that special purse children can try their hand at numerous oc- the Pyeongtaek City you’ve been longing cupations. It’s a wild place and gets crowded, Tour; this is a free day for. but a favorite for special occasions. Visit www.

Private vehicles Private trip offered by the It’s also a great kidzania.co.kr for specials. PIEF (Pyeongtaek place to shop for gifts When it’s time to take the children out and International Ex- to send home and tra- about, though, you simply can’t beat Everland! change Foundation) ditional Korean crafts. It is our favorite amusement park in Korea, six times a year to This is where you will and the season passes will be well worth your

Legal see the local sights and history in our area go for lunch and the place to be in evenings. If investment. If you can go mid-week, you will (www.pyeongtaek.go.kr/tourEn/contents. you get to the end of the road, swing left and have dramatically fewer crowds. Of course, do?mId=0107000000). walk under the train tracks, you will be near it’s not just for kids and has the absolute best A little further afield, up in Osan City, are the 4/9 Market, where the local shops are al- wooden coaster I’ve ridden: The T-Express! many wonderful options for day trips (www. ways fun to explore. On days that end in four If you are ready to venture further north, osan.go.kr). You could take a hike around the or nine, the area gets crammed with the col- then the Seoul Grand Park Zoo is a great place

Living cute ancient Doksanseong hilltop fortress orful umbrellas and seasonal produce from a to take the kids and has easy access via public where views can extend down to Songtan on local farmers market. transportation. This place is large and hilly, a clear day. Nearby is the location of a more Buying seasonally is still very much a way so bring the stroller. It can be done on a tight recent military skirmish: the UN Forces First of life here, and it doesn’t get much better budget by walking to the gate, or take the little Battle Memorial. This is the location of the than purchasing a bag of sweet potatoes from tram, which is cheaper than the chairlift. Even first battle fought with UN soldiers, mostly a little old ajuma at the 4/9 Market. In an ut- deeper into the city is the Children’s Grand Food American, as part of Task Force Smith during ter contrast, a visit to a Korean Department Park and Zoo – where the small zoo is free, the Korean War. store like Emart, Homeplus, or Lotte Mart is the animal show hysterical, the playgrounds There is a small, very informative and inter- also a worthwhile venture to explore Korean large, and the amusement rides pricey (but active museum, plus some outdoor static dis- groceries, see the modern appliances, and avoidable). plays, a lower level remembrance park, and ride the moving sidewalk. Drop your kids in A final kid-specific place in Seoul that’s the new memorial itself. You can also (very the playland and eat at the food court. worthwhile is the National Museum’s Chil-

Leisure cautiously) cross the street to see the original dren’s Museum. There are many children’s memorial erected in the 1955. I highly recom- KID FRIENDLY museums in Korea, but this one was uniquely mend seeing this place! For a different kind If you do have kids, there are certainly done and focused on Korean art and archi- of family day out, visit the Osan Eco Park at many options for them. Off base there are tecture; on actual items found in the adjacent the southern part of the city, where you can numerous playgrounds hidden along back National Museum. We loved it.

50 Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20 Leisure

SEOUL ROAD TRIPS roadside park or visit a sauna for a full dip. Seoul is chock full of places to visit and Korea is small, but so big on culture and Nearby Gyeryongsan National Park has hik- things to do. You could easily take a day trip sights that it’s incredible how a little weekend ing trails, a campground, and a pretty temple to Seoul for something new each weekend or weeklong road trip away from base will re- to enjoy, plus there are ice climbing waterfalls and occupy a year-long tour with fun outings. ward you. Always travel with an open mind in the winter. If you would rather see cultural There are the museums: The National Muse- and be ready to pop into any information sights, travel down to Gongju, where the for- um, Seodaemun Natural History Museum, the booth for a map to find the funky attractions tress walls surround a natural hilltop over- Trick Eye Museum, Gwacheon Science Muse- off the beaten track. looking the river. You can hike around the um, and many more. Remember, there are tourist hotels (ex- entire fortress and see traditional pavilions in There are outdoor options like the Seoul pensive and Western), motels / love motels the interior. Forest and hiking Bukhansan. There is also (cheaper and themed), “minbak” (cheap There is also an excellent Korean restau- shopping: The Flower Market, Namdaemun, homestays) and “hanok” (traditional home- rant opposite the entry. While you are down Dongdaemun, the Christmas Market, Insa- stays that range wildly in price). Pack up, plan south, the provincial forest of Chilgapsan dong, Itaewon, Myeongdong, and the Anti- little, and be ready for fun. All of these places offers some great hiking and an astronomi- nque Market. Do it all! can be reached by public transportation, but cal observatory where you can spot stars and There are plenty of other worthwhile day the further reaches will need taxi access to constellations on clear evenings. trips in the vicinity. Suwon’s Hwaseong For- and from the nearest bus or train station. Re- tress is a UNESCO heritage site, and a fun member, the KTO 1330 phone number can THE NORTHEAST way to spend a day walking along the walls help with those details! Driving is easiest. Branching out and heading northeast in within the city. Instead of roughing it, how Korea means instant mountains-steep, tall, about visit the nearby Asan Spa? The spa is GO WEST precipitous and beautifully remote. If you huge and rivals the famous Dragon Hill Spa in The western portion of Korea is perfect for follow I-50 eastward, you can visit the high- Seoul. a first venture away from base. Though not lights of a well-touristed area with easy access Though Asan Spavis doesn’t have an ac- as scenic as the rest of the country, it is close via Seoul. This area can get very crowded on companying jjimjilbang (co-ed relaxation and features some of the most family-friendly weekends, especially during Korean holidays space) it makes up for that with a full outdoor beaches in the area. Follow route 34/32 west- and in the summer. waterpark – the hot springs sections of which ward to the Taeanhaean National Park where Our go-to spot for a long weekend has is open year-round. But, if a huge waterpark you can camp along the beach, swim in the been, for a long time, the small recreation is what you are after, you have come to the gentle West Sea waters, and watch the tide go area of Ganhyeon. This is a canyon with rock right peninsula; a quick search on visitkorea. out – way way out. climbing, camping, a river to explore, and an or.kr will give you many results. Some are The western coast has tidal flats like no- old railroad to walk along or pedal a rail bike. even indoors! where else, which makes warmer shallow wa- Rock climbing in Korea is crowded on week- Woongjin Playdoci even has an accompany- ters and gentle waves for splashing and play. ends and sometimes the Koreans’ safety is a ing indoor ski hill. So, in the heat of summer You will also see Koreans digging for clams. bit sketchy, but the opportunities are amazing you can be cool or lounge in the pool. Always The Gurypo campground is a perfect spot with in such a mountainous country. be sure to bring your swim cap to Korean a nice beach edged by scenic cliffs where you Continue along I-50 to the coast and find pools; and suits tend to be conservative. can hike the coastal trail to visit other beaches the rough and wild East Sea, where the and the large sand dunes at Sinduri. mountains drop into the ocean and surfers Further south, near Gunsan, is the Byeon- find their waves. The beaches of the east coast sanbando National Park and more beaches are small and scenic, camp-able, and chilly. like Gosapo to camp on. You can even drive From here, it’s a quick jaunt up to Seoraksan along the 33-k.m. seawall on the way! For in- National Park and beyond it into the wilds of land adventures, an easy drive on I-1 will get the north. you to Daejeon. The city has some great mu- This is where people brave the whitewater seums like the National Science Museum and of the Naerincheon River; ITT has a flawless the Expo Park Exhibits, and the Yuesong Hot trip that is a blast! Further off the beaten track Springs area on the west side of town, where Asan Spavis you can dip your feet in the hot water at the EXPLORE on page 54

EXPLORE continued from page 51 tal; during the Three Kingdoms Period of The associated jjimjilbang is, however, Korean history, a tiny fourth kingdom made small and easily outdone by others. Busan is is the town of Hwacheon, which has quickly its unique stamp on this central part of the just another big city, so head north for some become a favorite of ours for nearby camping, country. The largest funeral mounds, and one culture! Near Ulsan, there are ancient Korean river activities, and a great bike trail along the left open and excavated, are found at the Dae- petroglyphs in the Daegok Valley if you find scenic waterway. Even in the winter, it is a fun gaya Museum. It is fascinating to learn about, that as fascinating as I do. Korean cavemen place to be with its famous ice fishing festival and picturesque to hike around, the ancient carved these fish and whales into the rock and a great ice climbing wall. tombs. thousands of years ago, and you can still walk There are lots of outdoor activities in Korea For camping and outdoors, the eastern side up and see them today! and ice climbing is really taking off. In fact, of Jirisan National Park has trail access and A super museum makes a good introduc- my husband has said his only regret in leaving a wonderful campground called Somakgol tion before driving out on country roads to here is not starting ice climbing earlier! near a creek to play. It is so colorful in the fall. the sights. Back north along I-1 is the culture Continuing your southerly drive will drop you capital of Korea: Gyeongju. Here is where you

Culture EAST MOUNTAINS into Goseong county – dinosaur country they will find a one-stop town for ancient Korea. To get deeper into the mountains, travel call it – and the very informative and enter- With and old fortress, cute town center, royal east along I-40, and subsequently route 38, taining Sangjokam County Park and Dinosaur tombs from the Silla Kingdom and a formal toward the mountain town that made us fall Museum. garden, you could spend a full day wandering Here is where you can, quite literally, the ancient sites in this pretty UNESCO heri- in love with Korean mountains even in slushy Taebaek weather. This is Taebaek, a cute old mining walk in the dinosaur footprints along the tage town. Visit the museum on the way in to town nestled in a crescent shaped valley sur- edge of the sea cliffs, or even camp out along know what you are looking at! Education rounded by mountains and things to do. the shore. It’s a dino dream! A bit further There are caves to visit (the best being east along the seashore is the port town of SOUTHWEST Hwanseolgul,) there are trails to hike (like Tongyeong, where you can board one of the Venturing to the southwestern portion of along the Dakpoong valley,) and there are famous Korean turtle boats and ride a ferry the Korean peninsula nearly brings you back museums to see (the Taebaek Paleozoic Mu- out to the island of Hansando. There you can in time, and certainly takes you to places seum or Coal Museum). In addition, this is explore (by car) the islands, stay in a minbak rarely visited by western tourists. This area

Transportation home to the 02 and High1 ski resorts! On the along a pebble beach, and learn about Admi- is mostly flat farmland tilting westward into way east, you will pass picturesque Guinsa ral Yi, the famous Korean naval innovator. the sea, but still has some steep mountains. temple; a unique branch of Korean Buddhism Heading south along I-25 can get you to the crafted this temple built along the edges of a BUSAN & BEYOND Juknokwang Bamboo Forest in the small steep valley. From this south area, it’s a straight shot town of Damyang. If scenery is what you are after, a ride on along route 2 to Busan. This alternate to Seoul This grove of bamboo has numerous trails,

Private vehicles Private Korea’s O-train can’t be missed. Take two days is known for its beach and the nightlife in that a playground, and even a small traditional and ride through the tiny mountain towns, area. Haeundae Beach is pretty, uniquely village and is well worth a stopover. Even along old curvy tracks, and through tunnels smack-dab in the city, and has a great park further south is Wolchulsan National Park, a galore. Stop and hike straight from the train along the western edge; summertime it is mountain oasis, where you can actually back- to any of the tiny villages, including Taebaek. insanely wall-to-wall crowded. There are bet- pack into a campground. It’s only 500 me-

Legal Stay at a minbak and hop back on the train ter beaches in this country, so what else is in ters from the parking lot, but the Gyeongpo the next day. Busan? campground feels remote without the exces- It makes a loop from Jecheon with an ac- Well, a walk along the old city wall at Mt. sive tents found in typical Korean camping. cess link from Seoul and Pyeongtaek. It can Geumseong is certainly worthwhile for the Not far from here is Dehean Green Tea be booked, with a bit of difficulty, from the views, and a visit to the Haedong Yonggung- Plantation, where the tea bushes are lined Korail English website (www.letskorail.com); sa seaside temple is interesting. My favorite

Living have a Korean friend help or call the Korail thing in Busan, however, was the immense number for phone booking (1599-7777). For a Hurshimchung sauna with its themed pools, faster way to travel, try the Jeongseon ZipRid- relaxing rooms and cave swimming. If you er at Arii Hills resort (the O-train stops here, visit only one Korean sauna, this could be it! too). This zipline goes 60 mph and 3,900 feet! Gamcheon Culture Villiage, Busan Food SOUTHEAST Photo submitted by Joshua Howard Going southeast along I-1 can get you to the other major city in Korea: Busan. But there is so much more, with a little diversion. Choos- ing to go south along I-45 can get you to the UNESCO World Heritage site at Haeinsa

Leisure Temple. The Tripitaka Koreana, a full copy of Buddhist texts carved onto wooden printing blocks in the 1200s, is contained within this complex. Not far from Haeinsa is the old Gaya capi- Hansando 54 Welcome to the Pacific 2019-20 ground or live fish from a tank, there is nothing more Korean than getting super fresh in-season food. Even better: buy it from a roaming blue truck! • Eat Korean food. Cook your own “bulgogi” or “galbi,” have some regional cuisine like “dolsat bibimbap,” and come to love all the hundreds of kimchi. • Stop at a highway rest stop. Experience Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, Busan Photo submitted by Kelly Curtis the incredible service. These places have

cafeterias, clean toilets, gas stations, shops Culture row after row up the steep hillsides. You can here, but cheap rentals can be found online. of all kinds, coffee shops, and often mas- walk along the trails, up and down the hills, Not as easy as Jeju is Ulleungdo (pronounced sage chairs and kids’ playgrounds. They and even visit a small bamboo grove. The woo-loong-doh). This island far out in the are rest stops of the future. drive along route 18 south from the tourist East Sea, is another volcanic sight to behold • Space-A off the ROK for a break. Hawaii, plantation is quite scenic with other hills and a beauty of nature; unlike Jeju, Ulleung- Japan and even Singapore are reasonable covered in green tea rows. do does not have the mark of tourism on it. destinations. Education Further west you will be approaching Instead of hundreds of overdone attrac- • Do something outdoors! This country is Jindo Island, famous for its special breed of tions, you will find an incredible coastal trail insane with its mountains, and the activi- dogs. But along the way, be sure to stop at the perched along the edge of the island’s cliffs, ties are often considered upper-class – as Uhangri Dinosaur Fossil Site. This is the best and a central valley surrounded by the an- those folks have spare time. Get out and fossil site and dinosaur museum Korea has cient volcano’s crater. Getting there is a chal- ski, rock climb, hike, raft, camp, or ice Transportation to offer, with gigantic fossilized footprints lenge, as you need to take a long ferry ride climb. preserved in situ under climate-controlled from the port at Mukho just north of Dong- • Get involved locally with the PIEF (Pyeong- buildings. hae town. taek International Exchange Foundation). This place is a dino lover’s dream. From You need to book ahead of time, so call Take Korean language classes, join a talk Jindo, Mokpo or Wando, you can board fer- the Daea Ferry Lines (033) 531-5891 via the group, go on the free tour and encourage ries of all kinds to the southern islands that KTO 1330 helpline. Once on Ulleungdo, the your child to attend the Korean-American Private vehicles make up the Dadohaehaesang National Park. bus system is easy to navigate, but most sites Summer School for amazing memories. It is the largest park in Korea and spans the and the trailhead are right in the port town. www.pief.or.kr vast seaside, islands and marine area on the There are lots of minbak available, so book- • Go to a cat or dog café. This is Asia at its southwestern coast of the country. You must ing ahead isn’t necessary or possible. Just go! quirkiest. There are a couple in Myeong- ferry to an island to truly appreciate and ex- dong in Seoul and there’s a cat café across perience the park; my suggestion is a trek out MUST-DO EXPERIENCES from the train station in Pyeongtaek. to Gwanmae-do. There are many things in Korea that have • Join a temple stay. Try either of these: a Leave the car at the dock, pack up camp- no location, but truly give you the Korean day visit at the Jogyesa in Seoul or a week- Legal ing supplies on a cart or backpack, and take experience. Here is a list of things you must end retreat at one of the numerous moun- the 2 ½-hour ride ferry as it hops into ports do, and they can really be done anywhere on tain temples in Korea. eng.templestay.com on other islands along the way. On Gwan- any excursion – from just outside the gate, to • Have clothes custom made. This is the maedo, you can camp in the pines along the Seoul, to the farthest reaches of the islands. place! For reasonable cost, vendors in large beach to the left of the port, explore tide Don’t stay on base! Itaewon and along Songtan shopping road Living pools and cliff caves, wander the tiny roads • Stay in a minbak and a love motel. They can create a special mess dress shirt, entire through the village and hike trails along cliff are so very different but require the same suit, or evening gown. It will fit like a glove. edges to beaches unused. This is relaxation skills at booking on the spot. A minbak is • Join a meetup group in Seoul for fun. Get and a Korea rarely seen! a room in someone’s home, while a love to know some people outside the military motel is a super-themed motel that will base bubble and find some new activities KOREAN ISLANDS have all the essentials for a ‘spontaneous’ at the same time. www.meetup.com There are tons of other islands in Korea; visit. I’ve taken my whole family to both; • Go to a festival. My favorite by far is the Food most famously, Jeju, and it is worth the visit! preview rooms and be wary of TV channels Lotus Lantern Festival in Seoul. The Hwa- Jeju island has a whole other feel to it than in love motels. cheon Ice Fishing festival or Boryeong mainland Korea, and while there are kitschy • Go to a sauna and jjimjilbang. The gender- Mud Fest are fun regional events, while attractions out the wazoo, there are also segregated saunas range in fanciness from the U.S.-ROK Friendship Festival in Song-

some legitimate sites to see. There is a lava small local bathhouses to gigantic super tan is an absolute must-do just outside the Leisure tube cave system and the Manjanggul cave, trendy spas. A jjimjilbang is an additional gate. For a crazy time, New Year’s Eve in the mini-crater at Seongsan, peak bagging at co-ed area, often affiliated with a sauna, Seoul is wild! Hallasan, orange groves, waterfalls and the where you relax in different themed rooms Enjoy all this little country has to offer; unique southern cliff pillars along the coast. in a shorts and shirt uniform. Relaxation get off base and don’t let the time go by too There is even a walking trail around the to the maximum is a family event! quickly. Pilsung! entire island if you have that kind of time. • Buy food at the market. Whether produce (www.jejuolle.org) It is essential to have a car grown by a little old lady squatting on the – Kat Nicola

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