SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN AWESSUMMERO SPECIALME SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 1 INSIDE: The Joys of AUGUST owning a home on the island.

INSIDE: Your Full What’s On Guide for August. The top month of the year for Majorca MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 2 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT SUMMER SPECIAL

INSIDE GUIDE

04 PROPERTY SPOTLIGHT 08 PROPERTY SPOTLIGHT 18 EVENTS Anna Nicholas Shirley Roberts What’s On this A home of my own in Majorc.a The joys of owning a home in Soller. month Michael Bolton is fi- nally coming to the island after resche- duling last June. Concerts, sai- 12 GASTRONOMY ling and more Andrew Valente events Ajo Blanco: a cold soup from Malaga. to enjoy.

20 EVENTS Summer Fiestas in 06 PROPERTY SPOTLIGHT 10 OPINION Katie Handyside Frank Leavers August Andrew Ede lists the main fiestas for this Making Seriously - you need to get out more! coming month including the Moors and dreams Tourism on the island. Christians in Pollensa next week! come true. Katie re- does an old 14 GASTRONOMY apartment into the Marc Fosh one she Mediterranean salads, the Italian “Capo- has always nata”, the French “Salad Nicoise” and the wanted. Lebanese “Fattoush”.

Luxury Villa with sea views in best position of Montport

Central Office Plaza Mayor Office C/ Estanco 3 C/ Plateria 24 07012 Palma de 07001 Tel. 971 723 041 Tel. 971 728 811 [email protected] [email protected] www.morcas.com SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUMMER SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 3 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 4 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT SUMMER SPECIAL PROPERTY - SPOTLIGHT A HOME OF MY OWN in Majorca

b Some years later my dream came true and my husband, Alan and son, Ollie, and I found ourselves the owners of a beautiful, yet forlorn and battle-worn old finca in Soller.

Soller Valley. PHOTO: BULLETIN FILES Unlike London, we also quickly learnt that homes in rural Majorca come with commu- by Anna nity.Our peaceful private stony track was also used by our Majorcan and German Nicholas neighbours, all of whom we have got to know well. We have shared meals and laugh- ter, fretted over new council taxes and initia- tives together and helped one another in ne of the joys of settling in a new times of need. country such as , and more At the rear of our house is a friendly land- specifically Majorca, is the sense owner who trains horses and mules for O of newness. Everything grips the breeders and it is always a wonder to see senses from the richness of the gastronomy these majestic creatures being put through and its exotic perfume to the very different their paces and handsomely rewarded for sounds of nature – such as the rasping cicadas their efforts. Embraced by theTramuntanas and vociferous frogs – and tuning into the and yet only a five minute drive to the sea, music of the Castilian and . and a fifteen minute walk to the town, we And of course there’s the architecture. Dur- count ourselves so lucky to have the best of ing my first sojourn to the island, visiting the all worlds. honey-hued mountain village of Deya I With the glorious climate, my husband has would dream of living one day in an ancient, been able to cultivate a plethora of Mediter- solid stone finca, so characteristic of the Sol- ranean trees, shrubs and flowers as well as ler valley, and indeed other rural zones of creating a vegetable patch. We grow arti- Majorca. chokes, tomatoes, broad beans, aubergines, Some years later my dream came true and salads, peas and beetroot among other pro- my husband,Alan and son,Ollie, and I found duce. With so much terrain we have reared a ourselves the owners of a beautiful, yet for- flock of loveable hens and so we delight in lorn and battle-worn old finca in Soller. We fresh eggs every day – as do our friends and knew it was more than 300 years old and neighbours! that it had enjoyed a lively and curious his- In our pond in the courtyard the lively tory. What we didn’t know was the utter joy throng of musical frogs lull me to sleep in the this magical, ancient property would bring spring and summertime and the nightly to all of our lives. scops owl bids us goodnight with its haunt- After several years of refurbishment and ing single cry, so like the sonar bleep of a sub- tinkering, our home had taken shape and marine. there was a renewed hint of pride in the old We have noticed how the fresh air and stone walls.A new roof was fitted, strong mellow climate have improved our skin and ceilings with old beams, a staircase, and for how having to maintain our terrain has kept the first time the property boasted bath- us fit and healthy. Holiday villas in Majorca · Availability for high season weeks · rooms. Having lived in a small garden flat in Those frantic days back in London seem so Self catering villas in Majorca the heart of Pimlico in London for countless far away and yet I am grateful for the mem- years, the joy of having a sizeable house with ory as it will always serve to remind me just Visit our website or phone our office for a quote a swimming pool and pond, and more than how lucky and privileged I am to be living in an acre of orchard land laden with lemons this Garden of Eden, in the home of my www.rentalspollensa.com - 971 866 150 and oranges, was palpable. dreams. SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUMMER SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 5 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 6 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT SUMMER SPECIAL PROPERTY - SPOTLIGHT

all the extras you have to pay on top). I had my heart set on three bedrooms, a light apartment, top floor- (would not by Katie want a noisy neighbour above) and as I am fairly fit (!) climbing stairs is nothing Handyside to me. I also wanted to stay in Santa Cata- lina- although seeking a street with less activity (!), open plan kitchen - American style, outside space … and lo and behold believe if you persevere for long eventually I found it. In fact I bartered enough , with a clear idea, patience with the owners and bought the flat for and commitment you will eventu- an absolute steal - all the nay sayers told I ally get what you are looking for. me my ambitious goal for my budget Starting on the property ladder can be were unrealistic …. not so…. I managed to daunting and tricky to get a foothold but find a flat that had been badly damaged by once you are there - boy does it feel good. a leaky roof- damp throughout, the flat I have lived in Palma for over 11 years and the lay out was not what I wanted - Kitchen before and after but still not finished though ....work in progress. and been visitor for over 20 years, so I but I had imagination. have seen the old school Palma transform. I managed to find an amazing builder - I have watched the boom, the crisis and recommended to me - Danny (Romanian) the boom again and have been on the who saved my backside. He managed to point several times of almost buying a put together an incredibly economic property - then finally (being autono- quote and started immediately tearing mous) not having the right paperwork in down walls, insulating and replacing eve- place and losing it. Feeling totally gutted rything in the apartment on a budget. and let down. Everything happened so quickly to be- At one point I saw the most beautiful gin with but then as the builders began to flat in Plaza Corte going for an absolute work - more problems opened up - taking steal about four years ago - but I lost it at a wall down to make an open plan the last minute. kitchen dinning room - and the rest of the I tied up my first lot of savings in a wall falls down….. rotten windows that Palma based flat, then the next lot of sav- need replacing …. dodgy tiles on the back ings I invested in a cottage in my home terrace that allow rain water to drain back town in Cornwall and then I missed the into the apartment…. all these jobs that boat again - not having sufficient collat- from the onset you do not consider. How- Bathroom before and after. Below: Work being done before and after. PHOTOS: KATIE eral to put down for all the extra fees on ever both Danny and I tackled this with HANDYSIDE top of the initial deposit for an apartment. force and despite the sweltering summer Watching property continue to rise and heat work continues. everyone buying around me I would be I was desperate to move in - my little lying if I said I did not get despondent at baby - my first renovation. It’s like Christ- times and frustrated. mas every day - I return home to (despite In the end I sat on my rental right in the a lot of dust and dirt ..and empty coke middle of Santa Catalina and continued to cans!) a new development, something has scour all the bank website, idealista.com been done, changed / installed or made to and many other web pages offering re- look prettier and its so, so exciting. duced rate flats. Surely if I kept looking I I look back at the old photos and the would find somewhere..? whole flat has been transformed exactly I was particularly interested in down by as I wanted it - wooden floors, wooden the convention centre as I still believe counter tops, plain but smart kitchen, this area must be developed due to its cream tiles, fitted wardrobes and very close proximity to the sea, the develop- cool doors. ment of the convention centre and they I replaced the dingy front windows with have spent a lot of money putting in a massive french window that opens out parks etc - at the moment there is still so- onto a front terrace, so the whole flat is cial housing here - I was slightly vexed light and airy. Being the top floor I get an when I viewed a flat here that needed a amazing wind through the flat as there lot of work, the broken windows and graf- are no buildings to obstruct the breeze at ADREAMCOME fiti put me on edge slightly but the icing the front or at the back. on the cake was the agent who said - not Finally since buying the flat it has over to venture out when its dark. doubled in price - my first thought was to In all honesty I had almost given up on perhaps sell it - turn it over and do the TRUE Santa Catalina to buy- property agents same again - however with all the extra scoffing at my budget, prices rapidly ris- costs incurred in buying and selling ing for flats that were tiny, dark and dingy houses and taxes and fees etc, etc at the real fire, I love light and airy apartments on to me. All my brothers for all their and I was slightly spoilt with my rental end of the day would it be worth it? I am with lots of big windows and I have al- help, encouragement and support, my flat which was about 100m2, three bed- not sure. ways wanted a back terrace for my bed- parents for being absolutely amazing - rooms, roof terrace with sea view, chimi- Also I love my little baby, I really do. room - I have got EXACTLY what I always thank you all so much, I could never ask nea and a beautiful quirky old tiled floor. I may need to consult my legs- to see if wanted and it feels more than amazing. for a better more loving, supportive fam- However it was in desperate need of a they are up to carrying all my belongings There is nothing like sitting in your own ily- you really are the best. face lift and due to the lateral shifting of back out of here - down the four floors apartment and thinking - this kicks arse - the building and its neighbouring block - (eight flights) of stairs that I carried all my I did it - we did it Danny- thank you!!!! I a massive crack appeared all the way belongings up when I moved in…. maybe just love hanging out here … and it’s all My lawyer Jacobo, Toni and Augustin for making down the inside . not right now. mine. It’s easy for me to start and finish everything possible, Targa bank - Toni and Sandra, the On top of this Santa Catalina central is Many people ask me if renovating a the day with gratitude notary who were unbelievable when it came to the far too noisy now a days, constant party- house or owning a house is worth it …. my On that note this article would not be crunch. And Danny and his team of hard working men ing on the street and unsociable hours of answer would be - for me yes. I have al- complete without thanking everyone you are the best! dust trucks … I was pleased to exit to a ways wanted to make my home exactly else who played a part - without whom Dream and have a vision- everything is possible even in quieter street. How on earth was I going as I wanted - I love cooking and being none of this would be possible. the face of adversity. to get what I wanted for the remainder of with the people and have always, always Gimena and Josh who work on my If anyone is looking for a trustworthy , hardworking my savings… which by this point was not dreamed of an open plan kitchen, living brother’s boat who happened to send the builder who puts his heart and soul in to what he is doing I too much, (especially when you consider and dinning room. I have always wanted a property to him, my brother for sending it can highly recommend him 602 609-539. SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUMMER SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 7 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 8 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT SUMMER SPECIAL PROPERTY - SPOTLIGHT

could see that, in our case, the Agent could do all the legals for us with the No- tary. That is the route we took for this and by Shirley another purchase that we later made. I am not recommending this course of action Roberts for everyone but it certainly worked for us. In our choice of L’horta for our house we chose to live in a Majorcan community or me it all began 18 years ago and were, at that time, the only English when our family realised an am- people around. This gave us a novelty bition to have a holiday home in value and we learnt so much about the F the sun. We researched the great attributes of a community that places that we had grown to love and it really looked out for one another and was a stand off between Begur in the their elderly families. Life centred around Costa Brava and the Repic Beach of the shop and the bar (just 2 doors away Puerto Soller. We rented a house for a from us) and local gossip was the life year in Begur and then put the idea on blood of the whole place. I loved living hold because Majorca still called us. The there and it was only my husband’s ill money was almost in the bank when we health that took us to a modern, purpose finally got down to serious apartment hunting in the Soller Valley. I mention that because it really is the key to every- In our choice of L’horta thing. In those days’ mortgages were easy for our house we chose for some but not really for the baby boomer retirement lot. Even Spanish to live in a Majorcan banks in their most generous mode community and were, wanted you to have some job or sizeable regular income. At that time the Soller at that time, the only Valley was riding high and Estate Agents were opening weekly. The change had English people around. come here when the Soller Tunnel opened and allowed easy access to the built in the centre of Soller. Valley. The idea of driving over the Coll When we moved to Soller I was part of a mountain with its 52 hairpin bends had three generational move which included put many prospective purchasers off the my daughter, son in law and grandchil- idea. People were queuing up to buy prop- dren. They had their own house in Soller erty here which they renovated. Renovation is the The purchase we made was of a beach- key to so much here in this place. There side apartment on the Repic Beach of are hundreds of derelict townhouses for Puerto Soller. The Montemar buildings sale which all need renovation and a lot of were built ready for the influx expected tender loving care. Many of these houses after the tunnel. Unfortunately, the have complicated deeds and some have builders went bust and the apartments never even been registered with the rele- took years more than their projected com- vant authorities. This is a by product of pletion date. By the time we got there years of migration when people left here they were having a sale of all these unfin- because they couldn’t afford to stay. Of- ished properties in a derelict bit of land. ten their paperwork for their properties With vision for the future and an unbe- was not in order and it has been up to lievable sense of pleasure we acquired our their descendants to try and sort this out. beachside home. The views from Monte- This is a big issue with all old properties mar are outstanding and every time we and the Estate Agents are more than climbed the many stairs that led to the aware of this and are very helpful. Pur- flat we knew the pleasure that awaited us chasers often can’t believe what they are The joys of when we arrived. being told when it is mentioned that the The mechanics of buying a home here in owners are living in a care home in Puerto 2017 as in the days I am talking about all Rico and it may take a little time to sort depend on the agent you choose to work the deeds. New purchasers have to sort owning a with. The Soller Estate Agents are a mix- this out and my advice is do not be ture of high end corporate agencies with daunted by this, it is just one of the un- branches in Soller to local agents who usual paths on this journey for you. have always lived and worked here. Web- These days my daughter and her family home in Soller sites are as good as the people administer- bought our house in L’Horta and they are ing them and sometimes this is a struggle still the minority English but as the years for the one-man band. Local relationships have passed all three granddaughters and exclusive knowledge of properties speak Majorcan, Spanish and English and available is their strength. The corporate they are more that capable of keeping up People walking in Soller village. PHOTO: BULLETIN FILES agents with their worldwide presence are with the gossip. often the ones that introduce a whole The Soller Valley is bracing itself for the from the UK and Sweden in particular. your purchase. Take time to choose the new group of clients. Their influence in next influx of people who will come and Owning a property in the Soller Valley is agent that is best for you, this is the most defining an area as ‘up and coming’ can join us here this year. In September the all about relationships. Firstly, with your important relationship of all. bring unlikely new investors to the area. biggest barrier to housing choices is being neighbours and then with with all the bu- As for our me in 2017 a new build, pur- Montemar led to a family house pur- removed. There will no longer be a Soller reaucrats that are involved. The Town Hall pose built apartment was our latest pur- chase in the L’Horta area of Soller when tunnel payment to be made. The Soller has the answers to so many questions but chase. All done very easily with our local we moved here full time. We used the Tunnel will be free to all and many people they are the ones that require a piece of agent. Wooden floors and double glazing most local of estate agents for this pur- are considering moving here because of paper stamped in three places before you have taken the place of stone entrada chase and dispensed with a solicitor. For the 30-minute proximity to Palma. Local even cross the threshold. Relationships floors and gaps around the window panes. the first property we had an English So- people making these choices join the the with the Estate Agent that you trust is the The circle of life gives us property oppor- licitor working in conjunction with a crowds that have discovered the Soller key to all the bureaucracy – they can help tunities and each one of them for me Palma solicitor and the costs were mega. Valley and want to come and live here. and advise on the process and they are have brought fun, new neighbours and a Once we relaxed into the process we Families are moving here by the dozen still there when you have questions after great quality of life. What more can I say… SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUMMER SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 9

Stylish Villa with large mature garden and stunning outside chill areas and guest apartment. Son Vida - Palma

Price: 2,800,000 € Living area: 440 m² · Plot: 2,085 m² · Bedrooms: 6 · Bathrooms: 7 · Ref. 98835

Cami de Son Rapinya, 40 Tel. 971 790 701 07013 Palma de Mallorca www.mallorcagold.com MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 10 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT SUMMER SPECIAL SUMMER - PERSONAL VIEW

SERIOUSLY- YOUNEEDTO

The Caves of Drach. PHOTO: BULLETIN FILES GETOUTMORE!

here was an item in this newspa- nor should it be. Personally, I am a great venturess than them in many ways. per on Tuesday last that be- lover of a day out on a charabanc. Here in Local inhabitants don’t usually let slip moaned the fact that island ‘ex- Majorca there are so many great things to the following cliche - but what the hell! by T cursions’ had be reduced by 50% do and see that I am actually lost for “Summers are for the tourists, but win- over the past decade or so. Some blame words in attempting to describe them all. ters are for us.” And for the canny sum- Frank the growth of All Inclusive holidays and Anyway, enough of all that, what is the mer visitor, they can practically have the fact that everything a visitor to this point of visiting this wonderful island their cake and eat it - if they keep an open Leavers island wants or needs is at the resort com- when folk do nothing than mooch about mind and look for the right excursions, plex they are staying at - well it isn’t and in the same few hundred square metres doing the right thing, at the right price. for ten days. I know that taking young Indeed, there is nothing wrong in asking a children to a local market or to spend a Rep what you are looking to do, rather few hours in fabulous Palma ain’t easy, than just passively letting them pitch to but there are other things to do that you what they want you to do! Trust me, might stimulate visitors. if you want it, they will find it. Maybe Happily, this island hosts a number of over the past few years that some groups fantastic shows that are much more West of tourists have been slightly intimidated End than end-of-the-pier and the delights by the whole hard-sell “excursion thing” of some of our natural places of interest but there is nothing wrong in asking what are really superb. Not that A-I guests are is available and then taking time out to alone in settling into a mundane ‘beach- pick what you want to do - if anything. pool-bedroom-kids club-dining room’ I will be not too popular with some out routine, MAJORCA is unable to break free their in tourist land in Majorca in saying from an understandably comfortable holi- this; but believe it or not, you dear tourist day loop. As I am not employed by any of have more power than you think. Those the many wonderful attractions that are in the business of selling you tickets for here on our island, I am not compelled to almost anything will glibly tell you that flag-the-up individually to anyone. But I the figure that they have given you is the can assure you of this - whether it be for a best possible price they can offer - Oh fun family day out - a visit to a Maritime yeah really? You might want to discuss Park, an Adventure Park or exploring that further perhaps! Mostly, these guys natural phenomena such as caves, coves have 3/4 months to make a summer liv- and hidden delights, Majorca has no equal ing and they really don’t want to see you in the Mediterranean. walk away from them empty handed. So Sometimes, even those of us who live be aware of what you want and how here have to be reminded of the beauty much you are willing to pay - don’t be that surrounds us. I have lived and silly, rude, or disrespectful, just be mind- worked here in Majorca for 17 years and I ful of the present situation as it now never tire of the island. But sometimes it stands. is necessary for even those of us who are So then, if you are reading this as a tour- intimate with Majorca to look at it afresh. ist just arrived - or part-way through a What I do every winter is to re-visit parts holiday; can I make a plea to you? This of the island that I haven’t visited for plea being; to enjoy your holiday with sometime; or more often than not, had family and loved ones and to keep an quite forgotten that existed. I know that open mind when it comes to visiting for many holidaymakers on a strict other parts of the island - for any reason, budget with a family to consider this because it will enhance your vacation ex- might seem frivolous, but it really isn’t perience and at the same time give you you know. This is because almost any- other ideas for holidays in the future here where a tourist might be staying on the in Majorca. Because, as I’ve mentioned island, close by will be something to en- before, where you are staying at the mo- gage the family. I sometimes wonder if ment is only the half-of-it - so try to em- we, although much better travelled than brace it and enjoy it all. Have a great holi- our parents, are actually rather less ad- day and come back and see us again! SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUMMER SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 11

Awnings r Sunblinds r Internal Blinds PVC & Aluminium Windows and Doors Majorcan Shutters r Blackout Blinds Visit our showroom in Pasaje 19 de Marzo, 10 & 11, Poligono Son Bugadellas, Santa Ponsa 5FMr&NBJMJOGP!UJQUPQUPMEPTDPN MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 12 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT SUMMER SPECIAL GASTRONOMY - SUMMER SOUPS AJO BLANCO: Acoldsoup fromMalaga

by Andrew Valente

f there’s a cooler way than a salad of Malaga grows excellent almonds and the starting off a summer meal then it ajoblanco is based on them. Indeed, as so Above: Ajo Blanco soup. Below: Gazpacho Andaluz. PHOTOS: BULLETIN FILES must be a highly-flavoured soup often happens in a nation’s cuisine, the I straight from the fridge. It refreshes, dish exists because the main ingredient invigorates and has a more cooling effect was very much at hand: this soup was a than cold drinks. way of using up some of the huge almond When the sun is blazing down from a re- crop. lentless blue sky and the thermometer’s The ajoblanco name literally means mercury looks as if it’s about to overflow, white garlic and it is made with almonds, cold soups have another advantage: many garlic, bread, olive oil, salt and vinegar, of them are made with raw ingredients, with the final addition of a few moscatel so no cooking over a hot stove is involved. grapes. Spanish regional cuisine features many Malaga is renowned for its moscatel cold soups that make life cooler for cooks grapes and their inclusion in ajoblanco is in the kitchen and diners at the table. yet another way of using an ingredient at Cooks make good use of what’s available hand – and it works beautifully. in the way of greens and root vegetables, For many people in Málaga ajoblanco is as well as nuts and even fruits. on the menu every day during the sum- Gazpacho andaluz, a concoction of mer. In cities, towns, villages and hamlets bread, garlic, olive oil, salt, vinegar, toma- it is still the favourite starter for lunch or toes, cucumbers and green peppers, origi- dinner. nated in the fields of Andalusia and for farmworkers hundreds of years ago it was a midday meal. AJO BLANCO Nowadays it’s used as a refreshing ● starter. However, I know several Span- INGREDIENTS 250 mls virgen iards who keep a large jug of gazpacho in Serves 4 extra olive oil ● ● the fridge and drink it as a cooler through- 4 cloves garlic 250 grs mosca- ● out the day. 200 grs un- tel grapes (or But you can’t do that if you’re watching peeled almonds seedless grapes) The success of dishes like ajoblanco de- I prefer the mortar and pestle mainly be- ● ● your weight. A gazpacho andaluz is full of 200grscrustless A high quality pends very much on the quality of the ol- cause I think there should be at least one vegetables but an authentic one also in- bread (Majorcan vinegar ive oil and vinegar. For an ajoblanco that person still doing things the old authentic ● cludes a good amount of olive oil – and pan moreno gives Salt means virgen extra olive oil and vinegar way. ● the calories that come with it. the best results) A little milk made from wine that was aged in oak. However, both methods give quite dif- If it didn’t have a plenty of nutritious Virgen extra olive oil is always dearer ferent results. No matter how carefully calories it couldn’t have sustained an An- Put the almonds into a small saucepan than the ordinary kind but only slightly you blitz, a blender produces a much dalusian farmer during his long working of boiling water for a couple of minutes so. The difference in taste is enormous smoother and less interesting mix. An day in the blazing summer sun. and the skins will slip off easily. Soak and well worth the extra cost. ajoblanco made with a mortar and pestle Andalusian gazpacho has become so fa- the crustless bread in the milk. When buying vinegar forget about those has much more character. mous in its voyage around the world that Cut the garlic into slices and put them little plastic bottles you see on supermar- In some parts of Andalusia they leave we are inclined to forget about Spain’s into a blender with the almonds and the ket shelves. They do contain wine vinegar out the grapes and add little balls of other soup that is ideal for summer eat- squeezed-out bread. Reduce to a pulp but it’s an aggressive poor quality one and melon instead. In other places finely ing: ajoblanco. (you may have to add a little water), you don’t want it in your kitchen. diced apples and/or pears are added with Gazpacho is Spain’s most celebrated cold drizzling in the oil a little at a time. In the supermarkets of El Corte Inglés in the grapes and sometimes instead of soup, but ajoblanco is very much in sec- Put the contents of the blender into a the Avenidas and Jaime III you will find a them. Both make a change but they are ond place. It hasn’t travelled abroad as bowl and add a litre of ice-cold water. good selection of top quality vinegars at not an improvement on the moscatel gazpacho has done, so it hasn’t made an Stir in salt and vinegar to taste and put reasonable prices. grapes. inroad into international cuisine. the soup into the fridge until very cold. Look for those made by mainland winer- Some Andalusian cooks add a mere dust- The gazpacho andaluz was originally Serve the ajoblanco with fridge-cold ies from chardonnay of cabernet sauvi- ing of cinnamon to a bowl of ajoblanco. rough peasant fare, but the ajoblanco is an moscatel grapes added to the bowl at the gnon wines. Vinegars made from sherry It’s rather nice, but don’t be heavy- urban dish with a nice touch of built-in last minute. The grapes should be peeled are always good value for money. handed with it. sophistication. and the skins removed. Many people There’s nothing difficult about making A quite different ajoblanco is made in Ajoblanco originated in Málaga but it now use seedless green grapes but they an ajoblanco but done in the traditional some places by leaving out the almonds later spread to Cordoba, Cádiz and Gra- don’t have the distinctive taste of the way – with a mortar and pestle – there’s a and substituting dried skinless broad nada, frequently with slight variations in moscatel variety. lot of pounding involved. So most people beans. This version doesn’t include grapes the original recipe. nowadays blitz everything in a blender. and the bread is cut into tiny cubes. SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUMMER SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 13 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 14 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT SUMMER SPECIAL GASTRONOMY - SUMMER SALADS

Food &Fosh by Marc Fosh

Marc Fosh was the first British chef to win a Michelin star in Spain and is Chef/proprietor of Simply Fosh Restaurant in the 17th century Hotel Convent de la Missio in Palma.

it is absolutely delicious dle East and parts of Italy, HEALTHY SALADS, and it is now popular all you should seek it out and over Italy where it is give it a try. I must admit served as an antipasto, that I love it and the dark eaten warm as an accom- purple-red berries are sold BIG ON FLAVOUR paniment to meat and dried or ground and have a poultry or used as a pasta fruity, astringent taste. Su- sauce. mac is used in the cooking he search for fla- ents should never be These simple Mediterranean The Lebanese fattoush of Lebanon, Syria, Turkey vour is an obses- drowned or masked. I was salad is all about the bal- and Iran. Ground sumac is sion with me and thinking about that this recipes along with the perfect ance of sourness. The com- rubbed into meats for grill- T when I’m cook- week while making a few Salad Nicoise make the most bination of lemon and su- ing and is good with pota- ing I continually keep tast- of my favourite Mediterra- mac really packs a punch toes, beetroot, and in ing and adjusting the sea- nean salads, the Italian deliciously light, fresh summer with crisp, fresh vegeta- mixed bean salads. It can soning as I go along. It’s a “Caponata”, the French meal…when the sun is beating bles and lightly toasted also be added to mari- little like fine-tuning a “salad Nicoise” and the down, that’s all you need. pitta bread, which soaks nades, salad dressings, musical instrument, you Lebanese “Fattoush”. up the dressing beauti- sauces and yogurt. must understand the ba- Caponata is a typical Si- fully. It’s a simple recipe These simple Mediterra- sics but in the end you cilian dish made with au- onions flavoured with red unclear, although some very similar in some ways nean recipes along with must play it by ear and go bergines as the main ingre- chili, capers, black olives say it is Catalan. It could to the local “Trampó” salad the perfect Salad Nicoise with your feelings. Fla- dient, but the balance of and tomatoes. I like to fin- derive from the Latin cau- from Majorca. make the most deliciously vours should be strong but flavours and textures is ish the salad with toasted pona, meaning osteria If you have never tried light, fresh summer they should not over simply perfect. It is basi- pine nuts and freshly (bar), where you would al- cooking with sumac, a meal…when the sun is dominate and the natural cally a cooked salad with chopped mint. The origins ways find a caponata ready decorative bush that grows beating down, that’s all taste of the main ingredi- the aubergines, celery and of the word caponata are to eat. Whatever its origin, wild throughout the Mid- you need.

CAPONATA

This recipe is inspired by the Caponata served at The River café in London. Awesome! INGREDIENTS ● 3 plum tomatoes, stoned Serves 6 diced ● 1tbsp red wine vine- ● 2 aubergines, cut into ● 1garlicclove,peeled& gar 1.5cm cubes crushed ● 1tspn tomato puree ● 1 medium red onion, ● 1 large red chili, finely ● 2tbsppinenuts,lightly chopped chopped toasted ● 4celerystalks,includ- ● 1tbsp salted capers ● 10 mint leaves ing leaves, chopped ● 20 black olives, ● Salt and pepper

Heat a little olive oil in a large frying matoes, tomato puree, chillies and pan, add the aubergine cubes and fry red wine vinegar. until brown and tender (don’t over Stir well, then cover and cook for crowd the pan; you will probably about 15 minutes, removing the lid have to cook them in batches). Place of the pan towards the end of cook- the warm aubergines in a bowl. ing to remove excess moisture. Blanche the celery in lightly salted Add the aubergines and celery to water for a few minutes, then drain the pan and stir in the capers and well and add to the aubergines. black olives. Season to taste with salt Slowlycooktheonionsandgarlicin and pepper. Scatter with fresh mint a little olive oil until they soften leaves and toasted pine nuts and without colour. Add the chopped to- serve warm or at room temperature. SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUMMER SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 15 GASTRONOMY - SUMMER SALADS

FATTOUSH SALAD NIÇOISE

INGREDIENTS ● 2 cloves of garlic, ●1 redonion,cutinto INGREDIENTS ● 100g fresh French for 2 minutes and Serves 4 crushed 1cm/½in dice Serves 4 beans, trimmed and peeled ● 1 large cucumber, ● Juice of 1 lemon ● 5 ripe tomatoes, ● 1 baby lettuce heart, blanched ● 1 tspn capers peeled,deseededandcut ● 1tsp ground sumac peeled,deseededandcut sliced ● 8 salted anchovy fil- ● 8 new potatoes, into 1cm/½in dice ● 2 tbsp flat leaf parsley, into 1cm/½in dice ● 150g good quality lets boiledandcutinhalf ●6tbsp extra virgin olive roughly chopped ● 2 smallgreenpeppers, tinned tuna ● 4ripeplumtomatoes ● 50ml olive oil oil ● 2tbspcorianderleaves cut into 1cm/½in dice ● 30g black olives ● 4 quail eggs, boiled ● Seasoning ● 3 pitta breads, cut into ● 2tbsproughlychopped ● Saltandfreshlyground strips 1cm/½in wide mint, roughly chopped black pepper Cut the toma- toes into 8 Place the diced cucumber wedges and in a colander, sprinkle place them in a with salt and leave to large bowl, add drain for 20 minutes. the French Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a beans, new po- frying pan and fry the tatoes,blackol- bread until it is golden ives, lettuce brown. Drain on kitchen hearts, capers, paper to remove any ex- tuna and an- cess oil. chovies. Driz- In a large bowl mix to- zle with the ol- gether the garlic, sumac, ive oil and gen- lemon juice, the remain- tly mix all the ingoliveoilandtheherbs ingredients to- tomakethedressing.Add gether. Season the remaining ingredi- with freshly ents and toss well to coat ground black with the dressing. Season pepper and add and garnish with the the quail’s strips of fried bread. Serve eggs. Serve im- immediately. mediately.

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Carretera Palma- 26, Portals Nous Tel. 682 122 721 www.i-miss-sophie.com MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 16 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT SUMMER SPECIAL SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUMMER SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 17 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 18 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT SUMMER SPECIAL YOUR GUIDE OF EVENTS

MUSICALEVENINGSINDEYACHURCH At21.00withCharlesZebley(flute)andSuzanneBradbury(piano)at thechurchinDeya.WorksbyBach,Hindemith,Debussy,Poulencand Prokofievtobeperformed.Infowww.ajdeia.netand971639077.Tick- AUGUST ets15euros. SATURDAY12AUGUST SUMMERCONCERT At22.00withMichaelBoltononhisGreatestHitsWorldTouratSon LOVE THE 90’S COMES TO FusteretFairGroundsinPalma.Doorsopenat20.00.Ticketswww.leg- endsvip.comandwww.elcorteingles.esand902400222.InfoandVIP 952883832.Tickets35eurosgeneral,55,80and90euros.Originally PORT ADRIANO scheduledforThursday15June. SUNDAY13AUGUST MALLORCAMUSICEXPERIENCE At20.00withRosendoandBurningatSonFusteretfairgroundsin Palma.Tickets35and65euros.AnotheronMonday14August.

37THCHOPINFESTIVAL At22.00withpianistMaxencePilchenattheCloisterofLaCartujain .Info971612351.Ticketswillbeonsaleonconcertdaysin theplazadelaCartujafrom19.00to21.00.Infowww.festival- chopin.com.WorksbyChopintobepeformed.

MONDAY14AUGUST MALLORCAMUSICEXPERIENCE At20.00withHombresGandLaGuardiaatSonFusteretfairgoundsin Palma.Tickets35and65euros.

TUESDAY15AUGUST CHILDREN’SMUSICAL At20.00withanewadventureofMickey,Minnie,DonaldandGoofy “Mickeyinsearchofthelostmagic”atPalma’sAuditorium(Paseo Maritimo,18).Info971734735.TicketsonsaleMondaytoSunday10.00 to14.00and16.00to21.00.Formoreinfovisitwww.auditori- umpalma.com.Tickets20euros.RunsuntilSunday20August. FRIDAY4AUGUST “LOVETHE90’SSUMMEREDITIONCONCERT” SUMMERCONCERTSOF WEDNESDAY16AUGUST At20.00doorsopenwithperformancesbyJennyfromAceofBase, THEBALEARIC 23RDILLESBALEARSCLASSICSTROPHY(CLASSIC Snap!IceMC,Whigfield,Corona,OBKandpresentedbyFernandisco SYMPHONYORCHESTRA BOATREGATTA) Set90’sbyTheJumperBrothersatPortAdriano.Ticketsat At21.30withJulianRachlinand TakingplaceuntilSaturday19AugustontheBayofPalma.InfoClubde

www.lovethe90mallorca.com,www.entradas.com,https://portadri- N friendsatPalma’sBellverCastle. Mar(MolldeParaires,s/n)inPalma.971403611andwww.clubdemar- ano.koobin.comandDiscosOh!(Carrerd’Aragó,24)inPalma.Tickets WorksbyProkofiev,Shostako- mallorca.com. are40,80and150euros. vichandFrancktobeperformed. Informationinfo@simfonicade- FRIDAY18AUGUST SUNDAY6AUGUST balears.comand971287565. DANCESHOW 37THCHOPINFESTIVAL Tickets25and30euros. At21.00with“LosVivancos”at atPalma’sAuditorium(Paseo

At22.00withpianistLiebrechtVanbeckevoortattheCloisterofLa O Maritimo,18).Info971734735.TicketsonsaleMondaytoSunday10.00 CartujainValldemossa.Info971612351.Tickteswillbeonsaleoncon- FRIDAY11AUGUST to14.00and16.00to21.00.Formoreinfovisitwww.auditori- certdaysintheplazadelaCartujafrom19.00to21.00.Infowww.festi- SUMMERCONCERTSOF umpalma.com.Tickets28euros.AnothershowonSaturday19August valchopin.com.WorksbySchumann,ChopinandLiszttobepeformed. THEBALEARIC at19.30and22.30.

S SYMPHONYORCHESTRA MONDAY7AUGUST At21.30withJulianRachlinand 14THPALAUMARCHSUMMERCONCERTS SUMMERCONCERTSOFTHEBALEARIC ’ friendsattheCartoixacloisterde At21.00withEnsembleLaCuarentena:ElRetornowithSergioBustos SYMPHONYORCHESTRA Valldemossa.WorksbyBeetho- (Argentina–vocals),LeopoldoJuanes(Argentina–guitarandarrange- At21.30withJulianRachlinandfriendsattheTorredeCanyamel(Ctra. ven,ShostakovichandBramhs ments),FacundoPasseri(Argentina–percussioninstrument),Richard Arta-Canyamelkm8).WorksbyDebussy,ShostakovichandTxai- tobeperformed.Information Korn(USA/Iceland–bass),AlfredoOyágüezMontero(piano)at [email protected] T [email protected] Palma’sPalauMarch(enterthroughCalleConquistador,13).Freeof 971287565.Tickets25and30euros. and971287565.Tickets25and chargebutreservationsneededatFundaciónBartoloméMarch 30euros. Servera(C/PalauReial,18)inPalma971711122.WorksLeopoldoJuanes TUESDAY8AUGUST andclassicsoftangoandSouthAmericanfolkoretobeperformed.

GREATPIANISTSSERIES A At21.00withNelsonGoerneratPalma’sAuditorium(PaseoMaritimo, 18).Info971734735.TicketsonsaleMondaytoSunday10.00to14.00 and16.00to21.00.Formoreinfovisitwww.auditoriumpalma.com. Michael Bolton WorksbyChopin,Debussy,AlbénizandLiszttobeperformed.Tickets is coming 29and39euros. H to Palma THURSDAY10AUGUST GREATPIANISTSSERIES on Saturday 12 At21.00withGregorySokolovatPalma’sAuditorium(PaseoMaritimo, 18).Info971734735.TicketsonsaleMondaytoSunday10.00to14.00 August and16.00to21.00.Formoreinfovisitwww.auditoriumpalma.com. WorksbyMozartandBeethoventobeperformed.Tickets29and39 W euros. by Christina CONCERT Buchet and At22.00withGipsyKings“TourGipsyUnidos”attheSonFusteretFair GroundsinPalma.Ticketswww.trui.esandwww.sonfustert.com. Andrew Ede SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUMMER SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 19 YOUR GUIDE OF EVENTS

56TH POLLENSA’S INTERNATIONAL MUSIC FESTIVAL Concerts normally start at 22.00. Prices vary. More informa- tion: festivalpollenca.com; [email protected]; 971 534 011. Tickets available in advance from the festival office at Sant Domingo Cloister in Pollensa.

● 5 August: Gabrieli Consort and director Paul McCreesh. Gabrieli perform two of the greatest sixteenth-century Ma- rian antiphons – Thomas Tallis’ Videte miraculum and William Mundy’s Vox Patris caelestis in a programme that celebrates the English choral tradition with a fascinating juxtaposition of repertoire new and old. ● 9 August: Carles Trepat. Works by Granados, Llobet and Chopin to be performed. ● 12 August: Balearic Symphony Orchestra directed by Pa- blo Mielgo and soloists Julian Rachlin (violin), Mischa Maisky Above: The Gabrieli Consort players. Below left: The Mandelring Quarter. Below Right: Quatuor Beat. (cello) and Alexei Volodin (piano). Works by Beethoven and Sibelius to be performed. ● 15 August: Quatuor Beat (Gabriel Benlolo, Jérome Guicherd, Adrien Pineau and Laurent Praiche). Note this concert starts at 21.00. ● 16 August: Les Musiceiens Du Louvre directed by Chris- toph Koncz and soloist Francesco Corti (harpsichord). Works by Mozart and Haydn to be performed. ● 19 August: Nelson Freire. Works by Bach, Villa-Lobos, Stojovski and Chopin to be performed. ● 26 August: Quartet Mandelring (Sebastian Schmidt (vio- lin), Nanette Schmidt (violin),Andreas Willwohl (viola) and Bernhard Schmidt (cello). Works by Mozart, Debussy and Dvorak to be performed. ● 30 August: Christoph Prégardien (tenor) and Julius Drake (piano). Works by Schubert to be performed.

39THINTERNATIONAL MUSICFESTIVALIN DEYA Concertsstartat21.00atSon Marroig(CtraMA-10km65.8) inDeya.Reservations678989 [email protected]. Tickets20euros,10eurosfor students(upto18yearsof age)andmembers15euros.

● 4August:SuzanneBrad- buryandFriends:TheAr- chiduke’sBirthdaywithTom Hankey(violin),ElidhMartin (cello)andSuzanneBradbury (piano).WorksbySchubert, IvesandSchumanntobeper- formed. ● 17August:EnsembleLa Los Vivancos land at Palma’s Auditorium on Friday 18 August. Top: Suzanne Bradbury (piano). Below: Asier Polo Cuarentena:ElRetornowith (cello). PHOTO: MDB FILES SergioBustos(vocals),Leo- SUNDAY20AUGUST euros.“DonQuijote”onSaturday26Augustat21.00 poldoJuanes(guitar),Facundo 37THCHOPINFESTIVAL and“SleepingBeauty”onSunday27Augustat Passeri(percussion),Richard At22.00withpianistEugenIndijicattheCloisterof 19.00. Korn(bass)andAlfredo LaCartujainValldemossa.Info971612351.Worksby Oyágüez(piano).Worksby SchumannandChopintobepeformed. 14THPALAUMARCHSUMMERCON- LeopoldoJuanesandclassical CERTS tangoandLatinAmerican WEDNESDAY23AUGUST At21.00withAsierPolo(cello)andMartaZabaleta folkloretobeperformed. COMEDYSHOW (piano)atPalma’sPalauMarch(enterthroughCalle ● 24August: AsierPolo At22.00withJimmyCarr“TheBestOf,Ultimate, Conquistador,13).Freeofchargebutreservations (cello)andMartaZabaleta(pi- Gold,GreatestHitsTour” atPalma’sAuditorium neededatFundaciónBartoloméMarchServera ano)atSonMarroig(Ctra (PaseoMaritimo,18).Info971734735.Ticketsonsale (C/PalauReial,18)inPalma971711122.WorksHin- MA-10km65.8)inDeya. MondaytoSunday10.00to14.00and16.00to21.00. demith,ShostakovichandRachmaninofftobeper- WorksbyHindemith, Formoreinfovisitwww.auditoriumpalma.com.Tick- formed. ShostakovitchandRachman- ets29and35euros. inovtobeperformed. SUNDAY27AUGUST ● 31August: “Mysterium”a FRIDAY25AUGUST 37THCHOPINFESTIVAL multi-sensorialconcertby BALLETSEASON At22.00withpianistAlbaVenturaattheCloisterof AntonioArtese(piano),Sileno At21.00with“SwanLake”bytheMoscowBalletat LaCartujainValldemossa.Info971612351.Ticktes Cheloni(maestroprofumiere) Palma’sAuditorium(PaseoMaritimo,18).Info971734 willbeonsaleonconcertdaysintheplazadelaCar- andSamantaStout(lightde- 735.TicketsonsaleMondaytoSunday10.00to tujafrom19.00to21.00.Infowww.festival- signer).Noteconcertstartsat 14.00and16.00to21.00.Formoreinfovisit chopin.com.WorksbyLiszt,Chopin,Debussy,Scri- 20.30. www.auditoriumpalma.com.Tickets20,29and29 abinandRautavaaratobepeformed. MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 20 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT SUMMER SPECIAL YOUR GUIDE OF EVENTS FiestasinAugust AUGUST SAINTS AND THEIR FIESTAS

liminating the plague and beheadings: just two Mas.And elections there are.They take this very seriously reasons why Majorca is full of fiestas inAugust. in Pollensa.All the main protagonists in the Moors and Add to these the death of theVirgin Mary and the Christians battle on 2August are elected by the locals. Hav- E assistance ofOur Lady, the Queen of theAngels in ing made his plea to theVirgin, Joan engages the pirate warding off evil and you get most of theAugust fiestas’ pic- commander Dragut.After this, it’s total mayhem in the ture. narrow streets of Pollensa and ends on the old football It was Sant Roc who took care of the plague. Roc is greatly ground. revered in Majorca.Very few people have otherwise heard The death of theVirgin Mary has generated great debate of him. In English he goes under different names - Roch, over many centuries. In the fourth century, Saint Epipha- Rocco and Rock. He is also Rollox; in Glasgow at any rate. nius of Salamis said that no one knew if Mary had died or Roc, whose feast day is 16August, is one of those saints not.At around the same time, however, there were reports whose origins are open to considerable debate. He was sup- of her having ascended to Heaven: theAssumption. It posedly a native of Montpellier in southern France and was wasn’t until 1950 that Pope Pius XII was able to dogmati- born in either 1295 or 1350. It is more likely that he wasn’t cally define theAssumption. However, strictly speaking born at all. He was a fiction, sceptics maintain, and was in and in strict Catholic dogma tradition, her actual physical fact a saint who was based on an earlier one - Racus, who death has never been defined.An end to earthly life was ap- was the patron for protection against storms. parently not the same as having categorically died. The thing with Roc was that his plague-eliminating abili- Still, come the celebrations for theAssumption, typically ties were seemingly a trick of language. In theOccitan known as the fiestas for the Mare de Déu d’Agost, there tongue, six hundred years before Roc apparently emerged isn’t over much concern with this debate. Instead, and as in Montpellier, Racus dealt with the “tempesta” (i.e. the might be expected, theVirgin is celebrated by - among storm). If one shortens this word to “pesta”, one gets the other things - swimming for ducks (Can Picafort), having a plague, and so enter Saint Rock. fight with straw () and staging a grand party in Anyway, as far as the good folk of were con- honour of a fictitious monster (). cerned, it was Roc who came to their aid in getting rid of The Mare de Déu d’Agost fiestas do have alternative titles. the plague back in the mid-seventeeth century.They’ve In Cala d’Or, for instance, they are Santa Maria del Mar, been celebrating this happy circumstance ever since. Roc’s which is just one source of mid-August fiesta confusion. plague-intervention powers are also recognised in Cala This brings us back to Sant Roc.As the feast days are 15 and Ratjada, S’Alqueria Blanca (in Santanyi), , 16August, it isn’t always totally clear who is being cele- Alaro and Sineu.Although in at least two of these locations, brated.On balance, though, it’s more likely to be theVirgin. it’s difficult to separate him from theVirgin Mary, and However, there is always Sant Bartomeu, whose fiestas more on her below. usually start well before 24August, to add to the confusion. Two saints who were very close to Jesus provide us with In the municipality of , just to give an example, the gruesome context of beheadings. Sant Bartomeu - Saint they do Sant Roc in Cala Ratjada, while Sant Bartomeu is Bartholomew theApostle - came to a very unfortunate the big noise in the actual town of Capdepera.At least with end.There are different versions which relate his demise, John the Baptist - Degollat (Saint John the Be- the most extreme one being that he was crucified, skinned headed) - it’s more straightforward: he’s confined to just a alive and beheaded.The feast day which remembers this couple of places - and, surprisingly enough, Sant less than happy fate is 24August. Joan. John the Baptist is more widely celebrated in midsum- Other saints who inspire fiestas inAugust are: SantAgustí mer; 24 June was long ago allocated as his birthday.On 29 (SaintAugustine), Santa Candida, Sant Domingo (founder August, his death is acknowledged. He lost his head. of the DominicanOrder), Santa Eugenia, Sant Feliu (Felix, TheVirgin Mary, who manifests herself in all sorts of fi- one of various saints who suffered appalling fates during esta ways throughout the year, takes pride of place on two the time of Roman Emperor Diocletian), Sant Llorenç and occasions inAugust.The first is 2August; the second is 15 Sant Salvador. August.The Queen of Heaven, for it was Mary, once upon a And one really shouldn’t overlook Majorca’s longest-es- time dealt a serious blow to the Serpent. She was also be- tablished homegrown saint - Santa CatalinaThomàs, La seeched to send under her command most holyAngels to Beata. In on the first Sunday in September, pursue evil spirits and to drive them into the abyss.The re- there is what is referred to as the most representative pro- quest went something like: “Most holy Mother, send thy cession of Majorca’s fiestas - that of La Beata.As the first Angels to defend us and to drive the cruel enemy from us. Sunday is 3 September, the fiestas will start in the final Amen.” week ofAugust. Anyone with any knowledge of the culmination to the La Finally, we come back to theVirgin Mary, for she has yet Patrona fiestas in Pollensa will sort of recognise these another fiesta occasion.This is 8 September, a date for words. In the native lingo there is an adaptation: “Mare de which there is no debate (unlike her death). She was born Déu dels Àngels, assistiu-mos. Pollencins, aixecau-vos, que on 8 September (well, so it was decided some considerable els pirates ja són aquí!”These are the words spoken by the time after she died or didn’t die).The fiestas for this can THE chap who is elected to play the local Pollensa hero, Joan therefore also start inAugust. BATTLE BETWEEN AUGUST FIESTAS - WHERE ARE THEY? ● 9 August: Santa Candida - (Note: This is not an exhaustive list as some saints are celebra- ● 10 August: Sant Llorenç - Sant Llorenç des Cardassar,Selva MOORS ted elsewhere, while there are certain fiestas which aren’t spe- ● 15 August: Mare de Déu d’Agost (this is also a public holiday) cifically to do with saints. Examples are Cala San Vicente (in the - Caimari, Cala d’Or,Campos, Can Picafort, Puigpunyent, AND middle of the month) and Colonia Sant Jordi, where the fiestas Sencelles, S’Illot, Sineu CHRISTIANS conclude on 6 August. ● 16 August: Sant Roc - Alaro, Cala Ratjada, Porreres, Puig- ● 1 August: Sant Feliu - Llubi punyent, S’Alqueria Blanca, Sineu. X ● 2 August: Mare de Déu dels Àngels - Pollensa (La Patrona); ● 24 August: Sant Bartomeu - Alcudia (evening of 24 August Cala Millor (4 and 5 August) only), Capdepera, , Montuiri, , Soller,Vall- ● 6 August: Sant Domingo - (Also the pa- demossa tron day for Santa Eugenia) ● 28 August: Sant Agustí - , S’Arraco ● 7 August: Sant Salvador - Arta ● 29 August: Sant Joan Degollat - Estellencs, Sant Joan SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUMMER SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 21 YOUR GUIDE OF EVENTS

Children join in the battle in SantElm. PHOTO: MOORS AND CHRISTIANS BULLETIN FILES ourismhas played a crucial role in the THE great fiesta events of the summer. It is a Formentor promontory at night). Such detail is development and popularisation of fies- spectacle of street theatre rivalled only by Soller’s immaterial. It’s the re-enactment and the specta- tas.The Moors and Christians battle of own Moors and Christians in May, which is cle which matter, as the villagers clash with the T Pollensa’s La Patrona fiestas is a good when, strictly speaking, Pollensa should hold enemy in the narrow street from the PlaçaAl- example of this.There was a time, back in the theirs. Dragut and his men arrived in May 1550, moina, where Joan Mas makes his plea toOur 1970s and into the early 1980s, when a general not inAugust. Lady of theAngels before his duel with Dragut. lack of interest meant that the town hall would The white-clad Christians of the village, armed There is another Moors and Christians clash in issue tickets as a means to try and encourage mo- only with staffs, eventually overpower their face- August. It is not on the scale of Pollensa and the re spectators.And this incentivising was a reflec- painted, colourful, sword-wielding opponents. participants are all ages. Children join in with the tion of the fact that the battle had long been in But the outcome might have been different. It is battle in Sant Elm that is staged on the beach. It is the doldrums. known that a division of Dragut’s men got lost always on the first weekend ofAugust: the Friday How things have changed.The battle is one of trying to find Pollensa (they had landed on the evening.

The duck swim of summer ● Ten years ago, Santa Margalida town hall finally compliedwithalawthathadbeenpassedfifteenyears previously.Thetownhallhadhungforsolongbecause itdidn’twishtoloseatraditionoftheCanPicafortMare de Déu d’Agost fiestas. Backinthe1930s,sothestorygoes,workersswamto gather ducks that had been provided by a benevolent landowner.Theduckswerereleasedonthesea.Those whichwerecapturedprovidedahandsomemeal.This wasthebasisofthetraditionalduckswimof15August. The problem for the town hall was that the law estab- lishedthatfiestaeventsinvolvinganimalshadtohave been continuous for at least one hundred years. The CanPicafortducksquiteclearlydidn’tfallintothiscate- gory.Thetownhalldefiedthelaw,butfacedwithlegal action, it eventually fell into line. Theducksarenowplastic.Theyarejoinedbymelons. Has the absence of real ducks diminished the event? Traditionalistsarguethatithas.Theevidencesuggests otherwise.Inthefirstyearsafterthebanonrealducks was introduced, the swim was doubly popular: there wereasmanyswimmers,whiletherewereevermore spectators who were intrigued to see if the ban was flouted (which it was on a couple of occasions). The ten years have passed and the agitating for a re- turn of the real ducks has lessened. Meanwhile, the swim remains one of the most popular of fiesta occa- sions. It’s not an onerous one, but some people use li- los and small dinghies to head off in pursuit of ducks that are easier to grab than their real predecessors. Anyone can take part. Just turn up by the Mar y Paz Hotel at midday and dive in. It’s a grand, family event. The Can Picafort fiestas come to an end on 15 August with what is acknowledged as one of the most spec- tacular of all fireworks’ displays. The pyromusical spectacular resonates across the bay of Alcudia, the sky lit up and the music echoing for miles. CanPicafortisnottheonlyplacewherethereisaduck swim.ColoniaSantJordihasone,anditwillbeonSun- day, 6 August - also at midday. MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 22 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT SUMMER SPECIAL YOUR GUIDE OF EVENTS

The hay fight of Sencelles

traw or is it hay? It doesn’t really matter. What does is that it pro- S vides an excuse for one of the madder of the fiesta battles. There is little about it that makes any real sense. Why, for example, is there a mobylette motor cycle “race” prior to the hay battle? From around midday on the Sun- day before Mare de Déu d’Agost (so probably 13 August this year), mo- bylettes roar around the village, their riders being squirted with water pistols. Yet more water is deposited on the streets and the main square when the bales of hay arrive. Two teams - a male one and a female one - head off into the countryside to collect the bales. These are wheeled into the village, un- wrapped and the battle com- mences. And what does it entail? Nothing, other than chucking hay and smothering someone in it. Around eight in the evening, the battle will be over. Not that any- one will have won, because that isn’t the point. Indeed, there is no point to it whatsoever, other than having some fun and in also dem- onstrating that, with any luck, the Sencelles town hall’s street-clean- ing service is ultra efficient. The battle is known as Embala’t, derived from a verb to pack or wrap.

ntoni Maria tinctly odd and it at- THE MONSTROUS BULL OF SINEU Alcover is fa- tracts thousands of visi- mous for ha- tors. The setting for the A ving compi- Much is the “Puig de led volumes of Majorca’s Reig” between Sineu folk tales. These are sto- and Sant Joan. According ries of the strange and to the folk tale, there is the mythical, handed treasure. Olive oil has to down from generation be sipped and kept in to generation by the oral the mouth while walk- tradition. They weren’t ing round the hill three written down (partly be- times so that a bull with cause there was so much candles on its horns (the illiteracy). Alcover set Much) will guide who- about remedying this. ever manages not to One of these tales has swallow the oil to the to do with a monstrous treasure. bull called the Muc or Well, that’s the story the Much. The bull was in its most basic form. very much in keeping There’s a great deal with Alcover’s astonish- more. And it all provides ing collections of stories the context for Much of giants, treasure, beas- partygoers seeking the ties and oddball charac- treasure. ters. The Much party is typi- During the celebra- cally on the Sunday be- tions for Mare de Déu fore Mare de Déu d’Agost in Sineu, the d’Agost, so is likely to be Much is the pretext for a 13 August (dates haven’t party. It’s been going been confirmed yet). A monstrous bull called the Muc or the Much in Sineu. since 2004. It is dis- SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUMMER SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 23 YOUR GUIDE OF EVENTS

lcudia doesn’t would be sung as the lan- really celebrate terns were carried through Sant Bartomeu the streets. A (Saint Bartholo- Andthisishowitistoday. mew) as such, but onthe The festival is unique toAl- evening of 24August it sta- cudia on 24August, but it ges an event that typifies has spawned other lan- how traditions were once terns’ processions that are abandoned and then revi- staged in the summer. ved. Sant Bartomeu is nothing In 1978, the cultural asso- like as gentle elsewhere. ciation Sarau Alcudienc Soller can boast one of the brought back the lanterns’ island’s finest demons’ festival of Sant Bartomeu. gangs.The spectacular by It a is very simple festival. It Esclatabutzes very much involves melons (or pep- merits being described as pers) being scooped out, spectacular. faces carved and candles In Montuiri, they do placed inside. The water- things a bit different when melon is clearly preferable it comes to demons.The in order that the largest lan- fire night for Sant Bar- terns can be made. tomeu features the Its origins are to do with “rodelles”, which are rather an acknowledgement of like giant Catherine wheels summer heading towards that spit out enormous its end and of the melon amounts of fire and then go season finishing. The chil- bang several times. They’ve dren ofAlcudia, at one time had this tradition for some a predominantly farming 250 years. In fact, the community, would eat the rodelles used to be quite final sweet fruit. Lanterns common across the island. wouldbemadeasatypeof Montuiri and to a lesser ex- lament for the end of the tent Lloret de Vistalegre melon season and the pass- have kept the tradition THE LANTERNS OF SAINT BARTHOLOMEW ing of summer. Songs alive.

Uruguay 1980

SAINT JOHN’S SEVEN SINS

he fiestas for the death of By the 1990s, the solo demon was John the Baptist have long replaced by a gang of demons - seven been the excuse for the vi- of them. T llage of Sant Joan having had They represent the seven deadly a festival of demons. Once upon a ti- sins - lust, gluttony, greed, sloth, me, there was a single “grand demon” wrath, envy and pride. On the eve of who would appear amidst the folk of the decapitation of the Baptist, the the village and terrorise them. Such one-time fear has been replaced by was the fear to be struck into the the (half-hearted) strikes of a rope hearts of the locals and such was the against the legs and ankles of taunt- demonic nature of the demon, it was ing locals by the seven deadly sinning not uncommon for someone to have demons. to be brought in from another village Known as the “rabiosa”, it is like a Open Tuesday to Sunday from 7pm / Closed all day Monday to perform the task. For a resident of football crowd with songs, a great Sant Joan, it was hard to be a beast deal of jumping up and down and the and be utterly beastly to the demons who nowadays aren’t nearly Ramon de Moncada 24, Edif. Xaloc, Santa Ponsa neighbours. as terrorising as they once were. Reservations tel. 971 694 036 or 676 383 959 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, JULY 30, 2017 24 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT SUMMER SPECIAL