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SOUTHWEST ENGLAND 241 Avebury Salisbury Bath Stonehenge Dartmoor NP Exmoor NP Isles of Scilly AREA : 7649 SQ MILES 7649 SQ MILES : AREA „

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SOUTHWEST ENGLAND 241 Avebury Salisbury Bath Stonehenge Dartmoor NP Exmoor NP Isles of Scilly AREA : 7649 SQ MILES 7649 SQ MILES : AREA „ © Lonely Planet Publications 240 241 Southwest England From the broad sandy beaches of Devon and Cornwall and the vibrant cities of Bristol and Bath to the endearingly old-fashioned seaside resorts of Torquay, Lyme Regis and Weymouth, the southwest is one of Britain’s richest and most rewarding areas. Few regions in Britain can boast such a fantastically diverse mix of landscapes, communities and characters – this is a patchwork land of rural fields and rugged cliffs, sleepy hamlets and medieval market towns, Roman settlements and picturesque fishing harbours. First settled by prehistoric people and later inhabited by successive waves of Celtic, Saxon, Roman and Norman invaders, this corner of Britain was once divided into several self-governing kingdoms, and that sense of separateness endures to this day. The differences between the region’s five counties – Wiltshire, Dorset, Somerset, Devon and Cornwall – may not be im- mediately obvious to the first-time visitor, but spend a little time here and you’ll soon realise SOUTHWEST ENGLAND just how different these next-door neighbours are beneath the surface. The rural counties of Wiltshire, Somerset and Dorset once made up the old kingdom of Wessex, which officially disappeared in the 8th century but was memorably revived in the novels of Thomas Hardy. This is an area best known for its ancient heritage, home to the mysterious stone circles of Avebury and Stonehenge, as well as an astonishing array of barrows, burial mounds and hilltop forts and the cathedral cities of Wells and Salisbury. To the west of Wessex is Devon, famous for its cream teas and coastal scenery, and still one of Britain’s favourite home-grown holiday spots. Further west the Celtic stronghold of Cornwall, long a favourite haunt for smug- glers, surfers and second-home-owners alike, is enjoying something of a renaissance as a centre HIGHLIGHTS Drinking in the view from the spire of Salisbury Cathedral ( p286 ) Playing the dandy on the streets of Georgian Bath ( p256 ) Avebury Taking to the trails and tors of Dartmoor Bath ( p309 ) and Exmoor ( p269 ) Exmoor NP Stonehenge Exploring the ancient history of Avebury ( p293 ) and Stonehenge ( p289 ) Salisbury Wandering the clifftops along the South West Coast Path ( p244 ) Dartmoor NP Escaping the outside world on the remote Isles of Scilly ( p337 ) Isles of Scilly POPULATION: 2.5 MILLION AREA : 7649 SQ MILES 242 SOUTHWEST ENGLAND lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com SOUTHWEST ENGLAND 243 0 40 km SOUTHWEST ENGLAND 0 20 miles rn Chipping Porthgain Brecon e To Rosslare v Norton (Ireland) WALES e Libanus S Bledington St David's Llandeilo Cheltenham Newgale A40 Carmarthen Black Brecon A40 Huntley Whitesands Mountains Beacons To Cork Gloucester Woodstock Bay Narberth A40 National Park Northleach Haverfordwest St Clears Abergavenny Cinderford Ammanford Ebbw Birdlip Cowley Swinbrook Vale Forest of Dean A429 Carew Tredegar Blaenafon Raglan Whitecroft Painswick Castle Laugharne Merthyr GLOUCESTERSHIRE Witney Amroth Stroud Tydfil Abersychan Sapperton Aberdare A470 A4042 Usk Lydney M5 Cirencester Lechlade-on- Pembroke Llanelli n Thames Thames Aberfan Pontypool Tintern er Dursley Fairford Tenby ev Freshwater S Berkeley er West Manorbier Neath Cwmbran v Faringdon Chepstow i Swansea R A38 Tetbury Pembrokeshire Port Talbot Caerleon Alveston Westonbirt Shrivenham Coast National Park Porth Caldicot Malmesbury Rhossili Swansea Caerphilly A48 Chipping Wantage Airport M4 Acton Wootton Tredegar Sodbury Turvill Swindon Gower Llantrisant Bassett Peninsula House M4 WILTSHIRE M4 St Mellons Avonmouth Bridgend Cardiff Portishead Windmill Porthcawl Bristol House Chippenham Avebury Mouth Clevedon Marshfield Corsham Cowbridge Cardiff Caine Avebury Circles Airport of the Corsham Marlborough Severn Court Newbury Keynsham Bath Bowood Hungerford Llantwit House Beckhampton A38 Bradford- Lacock Pewsey on Major Weston- A37 on-Avon Rowde t & Av Bristol Super-Mare Congresbury Vale Kenne Channel Churchill Devizes Canal Pewsey Cheddar Norton Semington Axbridge Gorge St Philip Trowbridge White HAMPSHIRE Bridgwater Radstock Upavon Horse The Mendips Rudge Bay Cheddar Ludgershall Combe Burnham- Wookey Westbury Salisbury Lynton on-Sea Plain Ilfracombe Martin Porlock Minehead Quantox- Hole SheptonFrome Andover A39 Wedmore Wells Warminster Woodhenge Lundy Woolacombe Watchet head Mallet Bulford Island Kilve M5 Axe Exmoor Pilton Longleat Croyde Th Holford Glastonbury Stonehenge National Washford e Quantocks Bay Croyde Dunkery SOUTHWEST ENGLAND Park Williton Nether Street Vespasian's A T L A N T I C Saunton Sands Braunton Beacon Stourhead O C E A N Brendon Crowcombe Stowey Bridgwater A303 Camp Stockbridge Barnstaple Barnstaple (519m) Hills SOMERSET Mere North Castle Cary Wilton Bay Appledore A358 Somerton A396 Wiveliscombe Petherton Wincanton A350 Salisbury Winchester Westward Ho! Northam Hawkridge Taunton Gillingham Old 51ºN Dulverton Clovelly South Wardour Hartland Bideford Bampton Ilchester Haynes Motor Castle Abbey Great Molton Wellington Museum Romsey Airport South Montacute Shaftesbury Torrington E House Eastleigh A361 x Petherton Yeovil Stalbridge A39 e M Isles of Scilly Illminster Sherborne Farnham Chulmleigh Tiverton oo Southampton Barwick Chettle r A338 Sturminster s Lyndhurst Kilkhampton A386 Witheridge A303 Crewkerne 50ºN St Newtown Yarcombe Kingston Lacy Martin's A377 Cullompton S A31 Tresco Bude DEVON Chard DORSET Blandford t Stratton Evershot o Ringwood Bude u Hatherleigh M5 Forum r Wimborne New Forest Bay A3072 Cerne Abbas Hugh Town St Holsworthy Crediton Honiton Minster Ferndown Heritage Beaulieu Mary's A3072 A35 Axminster Bere Area SOUTHWEST ENGLAND Puddletown Regis A31 Lymington zance CORNWALL A30 Lyme To Pen Okehampton Exeter Regis Bridport A35 Christchurch (38mi) Seaton A35 Dorchester A35 Bournemouth The Solent 0 10 km Boscastle Poole Milford- Yarmouth Sidmouth Lyme Maiden on-Sea Tintagel Davidstow Henfort Bridestowe A la th Wareham Isle of Teign t Pa Bay Castle A352 Brownsea Freshwater Rough Torn Launceston Ronde oas Corfe Wight South West C Abbotsbury A353 Lulworth Island The (400m) Castle Brook A30 Lydford Dartmoor B Powderham Cove Needles Port Isaac National o Budleigh The Fleet Brightstone Brown Willy ve Castle Weymouth Swanage Camelford Park y (419m) Milton Salterton Chesil Bay Chale Bolventor Abbot Merrivale Dartmeet Dawlish Exmouth Padstow Jamaica Beach Purbeck Rock Inn Tavistock Buckfast Wadebridge Teignmouth Fortuneswell Peninsula Bodmin Callington Cotehele Abbey Constantine Moor Newton Calstock Portland Bay A39 Liskeard Buckfastleigh Abbot Torquay To Cherbourg Bodmin Buckland Bill (France) Newquay Lanhydrock Abbey House Restormel Lopwell Totnes Tor Bay Trerice A30 Castle Saltash Plymouth Compton Paignton St Eden Project Lostwithiel Castle Agnes Perranporth Looe A38 Ivybridge Brixham St Austell Bodinnick Torpoint n Head o Dartmouth v Kingswear Weymouth-Saint Helier Par St Agnes Mithian PolperroWhitesand in Modbury A Charlestown Polruan al Porthtowan St Bay e Truro Y Portreath Austell Kingsbridge St Ives Tregony Bay Fowey South West St Ives Bay Redruth Stockenham Coast Path Veryan St Just-in- Camborne Portloe Salcombe Penwith Hayle Penryn St-Just-in-Roseland Penzance A394 St Mawes Falmouth Roseland E n g l i s h Land's Helston Gweek Peninsula C h a n n e l End Weymouth-Saint Peter Port Mount's Falmouth St Malo-Portsmouth Bay Porthleven Helford Bay Minack Theatre Mullion St Keverne 50ºN Coverack The Lizard Cadgwith To Isles of Sci lly Lizard (see inset) Point (28mi) 50ºW 40ºW 30ºW 20°W 244 SOUTHWEST ENGLAND •• Orientation & Information lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com BRISTOL •• History 245 Orientation & Information WALKING BUS The Freedom of the SouthWest Rover pass The Southwest Peninsula stretches west from At 610 miles the South West Coast Path is Brit- The region’s bus network is fairly compre- allows unlimited train travel west of Salisbury, the flat plains and chalky downs of Wiltshire ain’s longest national walking trail. You can hensive, but becomes increasingly patchy Bath, Bristol and Weymouth. It’s available and Dorset all the way to Land’s End, main- pick it up at many points along the coast for the further you move away from the main in two versions, allowing either three days’ land Britain’s most westerly point. Rugged a short (and spectacular) day’s stroll, or tackle towns; Dartmoor and west Cornwall are par- travel in one week (£70) or eight days’ travel coastline surrounds the region on three sides, longer stretches between the main coastal ticularly tricky to negotiate. National Express in fifteen (£95). For more information con- while a spine of hard granite runs through its towns. The South West Coast Path Association coaches usually provide the quickest routes tact National Rail Enquiries (%08457 48 49 50; www centre and the high heaths of Dartmoor and (www.swcp.org.uk) publishes an annual guide. between cities and larger towns. For regional .nationalrail.co.uk) or Traveline (%0870 608 2 608; www Bodmin Moor. Dartmoor is another favourite location for timetables, call %01392-382800 in Devon .traveline.org.uk). The various railway lines to the southwest walkers, with some of the highest hills and or %01872-322142 in Cornwall, or contact The Devon and Cornwall Rover ticket al- converge on Bristol and Exeter before cutting best hiking trails in southern England (see Traveline (%0870 608 2 608; www.travelinesw.com). lows unlimited travel across the rail network south towards the coast, skirting the edge of p312 ). Other popular hiking spots include The First
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